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KYIV “In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well- written series of guidebooks.” The New York Times

Winter 2011 - 2012

A weekend in Exploring and enjoying the most romantic city in In Your Hands Updated, the only comprehensive guide to all ’s eateries, clubs, sights and much more

№ 47 www.inyourpocket.com Contents The In Your Pocket app. with added GPS. Europe’s best city guides.

The best places to eat, drink, see, sleep and experience could be metres away

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Contents 3

A weekend in Lviv 43 Exploring and enjoying the most romantic ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES city in Ukraine Sport & Leisure 46 Contents Skiing & other winter activities

The Basics 5 Getting around Arriving in Kyiv, customs, visas Car rental 48 Public transport 50 Culture & Events 8 Kyiv rich culture celebrations Shopping 51 Where to find wide range of goods Where to stay 13 A fine selection of places to spend the night Lifestyle directory 52 Clinics, Dry cleaners, International schools Restaurants 22 Cafés 32 Business directory 54 Banks, accountants and lawyers Nightlife 33 Kyiv nightlife scene Adult entertainment 55 Sightseeing Maps & Index Essential Kyiv 36 City maps 57 Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra 39 Street register 61 Museums 40 Index 62

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 4 Foreword Arriving in Kyiv

Much to the ’s delight, celebra- tions were officially banned during the Soviet era. The World of In Your Pocket Much to the Grinch’s dissatisfaction, contemporary Ukrainians are making up for lost by Northern celebrating twice: once on December 24 and of- Ireland ficially on 7. The good old habit of partying Ireland on New Year’s Eve is still alive and well, and if you happen to be in Kyiv, expect plenty of decorated trees, massive firework displays and enough vodka to send Did Moroz (Grandfather Frost, a.k.a Santa Clause) to an early grave. Netherlands Poland Locals usually spend New Year’s Eve with family Germany Ukraine and friends eating massive portions of scrump- Czech tious festive dishes, exchanging presents and Republic partying until the sun comes up. Thousands are expected to join the traditional outdoor party on Austria Maidan Nezalezhnosti (Independence Square), and Switzerland Slovenia Romania with hundreds of business owners already in place Croatia protesting the country’s new tax code, celebrations Bosnia Serbia at the capital’s main square should be extra special Bulgaria this year. Getting a table at a popular restaurant Montenegro Kosovo or club can be tricky - many have been booked FYR Macedonia for months - but don’t get discouraged, these Albania things have a magical way of working their way Greece out. According to local tradition, if you make a wish when the clock strikes twelve and then drink the champagne in your glass to the final drop, your wish It was a busy 2011 for In Your Pocket, with new will come true. guides published in Bulgaria (Veliko Turnovo), Christmas in Ukraine is officially celebrated on Netherlands (Tilburg, Utrecht, Amsterdam and , the date designated by the Ukrainian Or- Sittard-Geelen), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia thodox calendar. Festivities begin on (Šibenik), in Switzerland (Zurich), Slovenia (Sviat Vechir) with Holy Supper (Sviata Vecheria). (Posavje) and in Belarus (Minsk); 2012 promises Family and friends come together to feast on an to deliver many more new Pockets. eye-popping, belly-busting assortment of no less The number of cities we cover has now climbed than 12 dishes including the mandatory Kuti - por- past 70, and the number of In Your Pocket guides ridge prepared with a special syrup of honey, grated published each year is approaching an amazing poppy seeds, raisins and walnuts. Enjoy! five million. To keep up to date, like In Your Po- cket on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) The In Your Pocket team would like to wish you or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). Z Novym Rokom (Happy New Year) and Z Rizdvom You can also now follow our tips on Foursquare (Merry Christmas)! (foursquare.com/inyourpocket).

Editorial Copyright notice Editors & Writers Text and photos copyright Neolitas-KIS ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES 2003-2012. All rights reserved. No part Mike Voehringher, Natasha Martisova of this publication may be reproduced Publisher Research Tamara Granatkina in any form, except brief extracts for Layout & Design the purpose of review, without written Neolitas-KIS Ltd. Natasha Martisova, KIS Ltd. permission from the publisher and Nyzhnioyurkivs’ka 3, Suite 25 Photos © Kyiv In Your Pocket copyright owner. The brand name In Your Kyiv 04080, Ukraine Cover photo www.flickr.com Pocket is used under license from UAB tel./fax (+380) 44 467 78 20 In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, +380 67 977 44 16 Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76. [email protected] Sales & Circulation Editor’s note Registration No. KB 7467 General Manager Andriy Chernyavsky © Neolitas-KIS Sales & Circulation The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for Printed by Litera Druk, Kyiv Kyiv advertising. Sponsored listings are Published 4 times per year Natasha Martisova, +380 67 977 44 16 clearly marked as such. We welcome all 60,000 copies annualy Lviv readers’ comments and suggestions. Julia Kaniuka, +380 67 672 44 97 We have made every effort to ensure Maps the accuracy of the information at the Odesa time of going to press and assume no © DNVP “Kartographiya”, 2012 Liubov Rogatinska, +380 95 683 82 57 responsibility for changes and errors. © Kyiv In Your Pocket, 2012

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Arriving in Kyiv 5

station. Telephone calls can be made by paying money By Bus at a window on the 2nd floor near the central station’s All international buses arrive at Kyiv’s central bus station escalators and then proceeding to the appropriate booth. (центральний автовокзал). The station is still waiting for its Coin-operated pay telephones are scattered throughout European renovations and sits like a hideous centrepiece on the building, while card-operated ones are mostly outside Kyiv’s most unsightly square, Moskovs’ka ploscha. A currency the central entrance. exchange office (обмін валют) is next to the main exit, and Getting to town You’re basically in it already, but short taxi just outside is an ATM (банкомат) that dispenses Ukrainian rides to Khreschatyk Street (Хрещатик) area cost 35Hr and hryvnia. If you need to stash your bags, a left-luggage office is up. The entrance to metro station Vokzal’na (Вокзальна) is available (open 06:00 - 11:00, 11:30 - 17:00, 17:30 - 22:00). to your left as you exit the central station - look for the green Getting to town Taxis are always on hand and can take you letter M. Khreschatyk is only three stops east on the red to the city centre for approximately 50Hr. A newly constructed line. Various trolleybuses, buses and minivans also depart Demiivs’ka metro station (blue line) is right near the bus sta- from the central station. Those with light bags and fresh legs tion. Just go round McDonalds’ building, pass a subway and can head down the main road and turn right at Shevchenko the metro entrance is on your right hand. Boulevard (бульв. Т.Шевченка), which runs into Khreschatyk. By Plane Taxis Boryspil State International Airport (Аеропорт Бориспiль) is where almost all international flights land and depart. The In Ukraine every car is a potential taxi - just hold your smaller Kyiv Zhulyani Airport (Аеропорт Київ Жуляни) is only arm out on any street if you don’t believe us. Metered 8km from centre and handles mostly domestic travel and Wiz- taxis don’t exist, so you’ll have to haggle over the price zAir flights from Europe. Located 34km east of Kyiv, Boryspil with your driver. Foreigners are fighting an uphill battle in is a small but modern facility. Ticketing agents, and passport getting a fair price, but be sure to settle on the amount and customs officials speak some English, so don’t worry if before getting in to avoid giving the impression of having you haven’t yet mastered Ukrainian or Russian. International bottomless pockets. Ordering a taxi by phone can help passengers now arrive and depart at two Terminals - B and you avoid surprises, as prices are usually fixed. constructed in 2010 Terminal F. Customs controls have been Express tel. (+380) 44 239 15 15, www.express- greatly relaxed in recent years, but it still makes sense to taxi.ua. travel light and pass through the green express line when arriving. If you need to connect to a local flight, a free shuttle Euro Taxi tel. (+380) 44 249 40 40. bus circulates between terminals F and A/B every 20 min. Feel Etalon tel. (+380) 44 501 55 01/502 54 54, www. like stretching your legs? Walk time to Terminal A, located 400 etalontaxi.com.ua. meters straight and to the right from Terminal F, is about 15 tel. (+380) 44 502 08 08/207 37 37, min. At Terminal A and B you’ll find currency exchange offices Limousine www.limuzintaxi.com/eng. (обмін валют), information, car rental offices, cafés, public telephones (see Mail & Phones), etc. Getting to town At the exit of the terminals you’re sure to be approached by cabbies. The 30-45 minute ride to centre assistance in ukraine assistance in ukraine assistance in ukraine assistance in ukraine

assistance will set you back about 200-250Hr. Buses headed to Kyiv in ukraine leave from terminal B roughly every 30 minutes. The charge is around 25Hr and the bus will drop you off about an hour Interpreter, Advisor, Guide, later at the Central Train Station or you can take off at the first stop near the metro station (green line). Business representative assistance in ukraine By Train The refurbished Central Railway Station (центральний вокзал) has now been joined by a futuristic-looking South- We speak French! ern Railway Station (південний вокзал), with the platforms located between the two. A new waiting lounge up the stairs see what we can: to the left from the central main hall boasts comfy couches www.assist-ukr.com skype:assist-ukr for a 5Hr admission fee. Currency exchange (обмін валют) +38 (050) 381 14 13 points and ATMs (банкомат) are in the main halls of each kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 6 Basics

Basic data Kyiv vs. Kiev Population: No, this isn’t a fixture in the Ukrainian football league. Kyiv 2 785 100 These are the Ukrainian and Russian spellings, respec- Ukraine 45 760 000 tively, of the city to which this guidebook is dedicated. Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 70%, Russian 20%, Most Westerners will be more used to the Russian ver- Others 10%. sion, but for rather obvious reasons ’Kyiv’ is generally Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 77.8%, Russian 17.3%, preferred in Ukraine. Belarusian 0.6%, Moldovan 0.5%, Crimean Tatar 0.5%, Bulgarian 0.4%, Hungarian 0.3%, Romanian 0.3%, Polish should not be more than one package of the same product. 0.3%, Jewish 0.2%, other 1.8%. Goods with a total value of less than €200 may be brought in Territory: 603,700km2. free of customs duties and taxes. If the value of your goods Borders: Belarus 891km, coastline (Black and Azov is greater than €200, but less than €1000 they will need to Seas) 2,782km, Hungary 103km, Moldova 939km, be declared on a customs personal declaration form. If the Poland 526km, Romania (south) 169km, Romania (west) value of the goods is greater than €1000, the goods will be 362km, Russia 1,576km, Slovakia 97km. subject to clearance in accordance with the import declara- Rivers: (1,204km), Dnister, Donets, Bug, tion requirements for imported cargo. Cultural goods may be brought in if they are not subject to any Danube. international alert and you have documents which prove your Highest point: Mount Hoverla 2,061m. right of ownership. To take such goods out of Ukraine you will Local time: All of Ukraine is in the Eastern European Time need to obtain relevant authorisation documents from the zone (GMT +2), along with its neighbouring countries State Service for Control Over the Passage of Cultural Values Belarus, Romania and Turkey. Thus, when it is 12:00 in Across the National Frontier of Ukraine (T.Shevchenka bul’v. 3, Kyiv, it is 13:00 in Moscow, 11:00 in Paris and Warsaw, tel. (+380) 44 279 53 40/(+380) 44 279 56 47.) 10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York. All customs declarations, filled out upon arrival to Ukraine, must be kept throughout the period of your stay, and must be handed National holidays 2012 over upon departure. This declaration can not be renewed if lost. January 1 New Year Communism January 7 Orthodox Christmas Like an aggressive case of athlete’s foot, communism refuses March 8 Women’s Day to go away. While Ukraine’s youth embraces capitalism and April 15 Sunday nationalism, many elderly and disillusioned citizens cling to April 16 Easter Monday socialism. In June 2009, this political divide made international May 1-2 A day off for the workers news as hooligans linked to a Ukrainian nationalist organiza- May 9 Victory Day tion savagely vandalised Kyiv’s sole statue of Vladimir Lenin. June 3 Trinity Most people, Ukrainians included, think of the Bolshevik June 28 Constitution Day Revolution as a Russian revolution - this is inaccurate. August 24 Independence Day Many top revolutionaries (Leon Trotsky, Gregory Zinoviev, V. Volodarsky) were, in fact, from Ukraine. Also, many prominent Soviet leaders had Ukrainian roots. Leonid Brezhnev was Alcohol born in the Dnipropetrovs’k Oblast. Nikita Khrushchev moved from Russia to Donets’k as a teenager, and ascended the Ukrainian beer (pyvo) is quite tasty and extremely cheap to ranks of the Communist Party in Donbas and Kyiv. boot. Tipsiness may set in early, though, as its alcohol content Two monumental atrocities occurred under Stalin’s rule, and is higher than Western brands. Those preferring foreign brands memory of the carnage continues to stoke Ukrainian national- can find their favourites at finer shops and establishments. ism. The first tragedy is known as Holodomor (starvation), a Ukraine also produces a wide selection of horilka (vodka), famine which took place in 1932-33. It is estimated that as which flows freely at many parties and gatherings. Beware if many as 2.6 - 10 million Ukrainians perished. There is evidence offered homemade vodka (samohon). While good samohon showing that the famine was, in part, orchestrated by the Soviet can be better than some bootleg labels in shops, the overall leadership in an attempt to squash Ukrainian nationalism. odds are against you and your stomach. Whether it’s Ukrainian Whether this act should be classified as genocide is currently vodka or moonshine, be ready to offer a toast at some point. A being debated around the world. The second tragedy is known modest ’cheers’ (bud’mo) will do for a foreigner. as the Great Purge (1936–1938). Stalin was obsessed with the complete annihilation of political rivals including fellow party Customs members, military commanders, dissidents, artists and anyone If you are 18 years of age or over you can import, free of else worth being suspicious of. It is estimated that he ordered customs duties and taxes, one litre of hard alcohol, two litres the execution of as many as 500,000 Soviet people and had of , 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco. millions more sent to gulags (penal labour/death camps). Personal belongings are not subject to customs duties or taxes, Ukraine’s share of the victims was disproportionately high. though a customs officer has the right to ask you to make a written declaration in relation to them. (Avoid bringing unessen- tial, valuable, personal items! A colleague of ours was told by a Disabled travellers customs officer to declare her wedding band. She declared the Kyiv is not what you would call a disabled-friendly city. High value of the ring, and - to make a long story short - she ended curb drops and steep steps are the rule. The central train sta- up paying a $200 bribe in order to avoid an outrageous duty.) tion does have lifts for the platforms, but the public transport A person can bring in food products free of customs duties and system lacks even a hint of accessibility. The wheelchair taxes if their total value does not exceed €50. However, food symbol used in this guide means that the establishment in products should not total more than two kilograms, and there question specifically caters to disabled guests. Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Basics 7

Electricity Visas Ukraine supplies its residents and visitors alike with electrical Citizens of the EU, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Andorra, Vatican, current of 220 volts AC, 50Hz. All sockets require two round Iceland, Monaco, Norway, San Marino, Georgia, Mongolia, the pins, but not always of the same size. Many thinner Rus- U.S., Canada, Japan and the countries of the Commonwealth sian sockets are being replaced by their European cousins. of Independent States (CIS) - except Turkmenistan - can enter Those with Russian sockets can buy a cheap adapter for Ukraine visa-free and stay up to 90 days. Everyone else needs their European appliances. Adapters for more foreign electri- a visa, which must be obtained from a Ukrainian embassy or cal societies are not easy to find in Kyiv, so bring your own. consulate abroad before travelling. Visas can be processed in as little as one day, with prices varying depending on the type Money and length of visa requested. Many Ukrainian embassies only The national currency is the hryvnia (Hr), which replaced the handle visa cases on certain days of the week, so call ahead. transitional karbovanets on September 2, 1996. Don’t be Travel to Russia is not so simple. All foreign visitors, with the confused if your amount is given in roubles. You haven’t been exception of citizens from selected countries of the CIS, must transported to Russia or taken back in time to the USSR - some obtain a visa. Upon arrival, you will need to fill in an immigration people just have trouble letting go of the past! Paper bills carry card. If you are staying more that 72 hours, you will need to denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 50, 100, 200 and 500 hryvnias. register with the local police (hotels are usually willing to aid Another word to the wise: two versions exist of the 1, 2, 5, in this process). Transit visas are also required. For additional 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 hryvnia bills, and both are accepted information, call (+380) 44 286 45 04. everywhere. There are 100 kopecks in a hryvnia, with 1, 2, 5, Travel to Belarus is also a bit tricky. Citizens of the EU, An- 10, 25, 50 kopeck and 1Hr coins. You’ll have no problem find- dorra, Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway and Croatia can apply ing currency exchange points, but rates are better from central for 30-day single and multiple entry business and private street kiosks. If it’s traveller’s checks you need to cash, look for visas without an invitation. The rest of us need an invitation, a big respectable-looking bank. ATMs have become plentiful or we can book through a travel agency authorized to issue in Kyiv, and many hotels and restaurants now take Visa and state travel vouchers. All visitors are required to purchase MasterCard - American Express is not very popular. There have national medical insurance, and must register their passports been scattered reports of credit card fraud in upscale restau- with local police within three days of their arrival (hotels are rants, though, so you may want to think twice before charging it. usually willing to aid in this process). Transit visas are also required. For more information, call (+380) 44 537 52 03. Moldova greatly relaxed its visa laws in 2007. Citizens of the Safety EU, Norway, Switzerland, Japan, Israel, Canada and the U.S. can They say that Ukrainians can spot a foreigner from a kilometre enter Moldova visa-free and stay up to 90 days. For all other away. This fact alone will not automatically make you the target visitors, visas can be acquired at a Moldavian consulate or at the of crime. Kyiv is, in fact, a rather safe place. As in most cities, Chisinau airport by presenting an application form and photos. flashing large amounts of cash can cause trouble. Wallets are All visitors planning to stay more than 90 days need an invita- known to disappear in public transport crowds, so guard your tion and visa. For more information, call (+380) 44 280 77 21. pockets at all times. Being very drunk and/or loud on the street Citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, Canada, the U.S., Japan, is always a good way to attract unwanted attention, especially Australia, Israel and a handful of Latin American countries can from the police. By the way, it’s a good idea for foreigners to enter Romania visa-free and stay up to 90 days. Citizens of carry at least a copy of their passport with them at all times. countries not on the list can obtain a visa at the Romanian con- sulate in Kyiv. For more information, call (+380) 44 234 00 40. Smoking Poland, Hungary and Slovakia belong to the European Schen- gen zone. Citizens of Canada, Mexico, the U.S., Israel, Hong Kong, You’re never too far away from a lit cigarette in Ukraine, and in Japan, South Korea, Malaysia and Singapore may enter without a some bars and clubs the term second-hand smoke just doesn’t visa; however, the amount of time you are allowed to stay varies seem to matter. Smokers enjoy a ridiculously cheap selection of from country to country. All others must apply for a visa at the cigarettes hawked by one of the many babushkas and corner consulate of destination country. For more information call the kiosks that are located throughout the city. Just recently Ukraine following embassies: Polish (+380) 44 284 00 40, Hungarian outlawed smoking in most public places and the workplace, ex- (+380) 44 238 63 81, Slovakian (+380) 44 234 06 06. cept in specially designated areas. It is the responsibility of each For a complete listing of embassy locations and phone numbers company to provide a designated area for all smoking patrons or see kyiv.inyourpocket.com. In many cases, the consular section personnel. These special places can not exceed 50% of the total is responsible for issuing visas and is located apart from the em- allotted area of the business. Since this law is relatively new in bassy - save yourself time and confusion by calling before you go. Ukraine, not every business has begun to enforce it. Tipping Market values Kyiv tipping culture is developing slowly. While no general rule exists yet, most restaurant-goers leave around 10% of their How do costs compare to back home? Here’s a handy bill. But your waitstaff will expect more from you as a foreigner! list of local prices to give you an idea. Some places include a service charge of five to 10 per cent, McDonald’s Big Mac 15.00Hr €1.36 $1.87 so read the fine print or ask. Loaf of white 2.80Hr €0.25 $0.35 Snickers bar 4.00Hr €0.36 $0.50 Litre of vodka 50.00Hr €4.54 $6.25 Exchange rates Bottle of local beer (0.5 litre) 4.50Hr €0.40 $0.56 20 Marlboros 10.00Hr €0.90 $1.25 Official exchange rates (as of December 5): Public transport ticket 2Hr €0.18 $0.25 €1 – 10.70Hr US$1 – 7.99Hr £1 – 12.49Hr Dry-cleaning and 25.00Hr €2.27 $3.125 Current exchange rates are available at pressing one men’s shirt kyiv.inyourpocket.com 1 litre of petrol (euro 3) 10.30Hr €0.93 $1.29 kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 8 Culture & Events

What’s on

Date Event Venue Tickets, Hr December 10 Robert Miles A famous founder of Dream House style SR 180 - 500 10 Lumen A famous Russian rock band BC 150 - 200 13 Notre Dame de Paris French modern opera PS 500 - 2000 Dmytry Khvorostovsky Golden voice of Russia. Classical music in the programme UP 650 - 2950 16 Jayce Lewis Rock music SR 120 - 400 19 Belinda Carlisle Magic voice from 80's UP 200 - 1100 20 Ennio Morricone Music from the old famous films with orchestra UP 400 - 2750 23 Michel Legrand Classical orchestra and special guest UP 300 - 1750 January 30 Balkan Brass Battle Balkan music CH 350 February Unona and Avos'. 30 3 years anniversary Rock opera UP 100 - 1500 8-12 Forever Crazy French Cabaret Crazy Horse OT 300 - 1000 11 Stars of San Remo Evening of Italian songs UP 200 - 3490 Budapest Gypsy 17 Symphony Orchestra Unique Gipsy Orchestra concert UP 120 - 1500 18 Okean Elzy The most famous Ukrainian rock-band with orchestra PS 160 - 950

Tickets are available for purchasing online at www.karabas.com. Concert Halls (adresses on p. 11): ACP Arena Concert Plaza OP October Palace CH Crystal Hall PS Palace of Sport DP Docker Pub SP StereoPlaza FT Franko Theatre TC Tchaikovsky Conservatory HO House of Officers SR Sullivan Room UP Ukraine Palace NAU National Aviation University

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Culture & Events 9

Art galleries Exhibitions Atelier Karas C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 22A, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 238 65 31. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Exhibition of Cinthia Brucie Collections C-2, Artema 55B, MLukyanivska, Marcelle tel. (+380) 44 205 42 64, www.bruciecollections.com. until 8 January 2012 QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. PinchukArtCentre presents the first solo exhibition by Brazilian Collection H-3, Pankivs’ka 8, MUniversytet, tel. artist Cinthia Marcelle, the (+380) 44 287 37 66, www.collectiongallery.com.ua. Main Prize Winner of the Future QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Generation Art Prize 2010, Gallery 36 C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 36, MKontraktova outside of Brazil. The show Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 278 29 85, www.gallery36.org. entitled “See to Be Seen” includes a new large-scale ua. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. installation and a new specially produced film. The exhibition is located on the 2nd floor of the art centre. Gapchinska C-3, Mykhailivs’ka 16, MMaidan Nezalezh- nosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 44 49. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, PinchukArtCentre A-5, Chervovoarmiis’ka 1-3, Are- Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. na Complex, ML’va Totstoho, tel. (+380) 44 590 08 58. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Free admission. Maysternya B-2, Artema 1-5, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 272 05 47. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Mystetskiy Kurin’ A-3, Pyrohova 10G, MUniversytet, tel. “No Art” Exhibition (+380) 44 233 58 75. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. until 30 January 2012 What if there would no more Silver Bells J-3, Sichnevoho Povstannia 18/29, art? According to Ruslan MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 254 57 77. QOpen 09:00 Tarabukin, co-founder of M17 - 18:30, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Contemporary Art Centre, «NO Ya Gallery O-6, Volos’ka 55/57, MTarasa Shevchenka, ART» – is a kind of reference tel. (+380) 44 537 33 51. Ukrainian contemporary art. point for drifting in the world QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. of unknown and emotional. After long road and resting it Zeh Gallery M-6, Frunze 69, MTarasa Shevchenka, tel. comes as new way to follow fascinating and intriguing (+380) 68 118 51 57, www.zeh.com.ua. Contemporary with undiscovered. It’s hard to say what is actually better: art. QOpen 14:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. a trip or a final stop. The idea of NO ART project came to Vitaly Vasiliev’s mind when the exposition of M17 Concert halls Contemporary Art Centre was changed, while all walls were free from paintings and gallery halls were empty. A-5, Baseina 2A, ML’va Arena Concert Plaza (ACP) This moment is always intoxicating: what’s next? What Tolstoho, www.arena-kiev.com. kind of project? Crystal Hall (CH) J-3, Dniprovs’kyi uzviz 1, MArse- M17 H-5, Gorkoho 102-104, M Palats Ukraina, tel. nalna, tel. (+380) 67 442 92 67/(+380) 44 288 50 (+380) 44 596 20 30. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed 69, www.crystalhall.com.ua.. Mon. Free admission. Docker Pub (DP) Bohatyrs’ka 25, tel.: (+380) 44 537 13 40, MMins’ka. Stefano Orazzini International Exhibition Centre on the Left Bank Exhibition Brovars’kyi prosp. 15, MLivoberezhna. until 30 January 2012 House of Officers (HO) M. Hrushevskoho30/1, A new exhibition of Italian MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 528 31 86. photographer is an accurate selection of the most D-4, Volodymyrs‘kyi uzviz National Philharmonic (NP) expressive Orazzini’s works: 2, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 16 97, marvelous moon landscapes, www.filarmonia.com.ua. Q Tickets 30-120Hr. intriguing big cities, romantic National Aviation University (NAU) D-4, and mysterious waters capes. Volodymyrs‘kyi uzviz 2, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. Stefano Orazzini was born in 1972 and has focused on (+380) 44 278 16 97, www.filarmonia.com.ua. black and white photography since 2005. In 2010 he October Palace (OP) C-4, Instytuts‘ka 1, MMaidan was awarded with the “The Best New Talent” title at the Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 15 82. Prix de la Photographie in Paris, where he also received the first prize as best Fine Art Photographer. He boasts Palace of Sport (PS) A-5, Sportyvna pl. 1, MPalats several other prizes and awards both in national and Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 246 72 53 (events department), international festival and contests such as “International www.spalace.com.ua. Photography Awards” (USA, ”Annual Spider Black and Stereo Plaza (SP) J-5, Kikvidze 17, MDruzhby Narodiv, White” London, Lucca International Photo Festival and tel. (+380) 44 222 80 44, www.stereoplaza.com.ua. “Giuliano Carrara” prize. Sullivan Room (SP)B-4, Prorizna 8, MKhreschatyk, tel. Brucie Collections C-2, Artema 55B, MLuky- (+380) 66 485 55 55, www.sullivanroom.kiev.ua. anivska, tel. (+380) 44 205 42 64, www.bruciecol- Tchaikovsky Conservatory (TC) C-4, Horodets’koho lections.com. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Sat 11:00 - 18:00, 1, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 07 92. Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Ukraine Palace (UP) H-4, Chervonoarmiys‘ka 103, MPalats Ukraina, tel. (+380) 44 247 24 76. kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 10 Culture & Events

Opera & Ballet Culture centres American Library D-2, Volos’ka 8/5, building 4, #116, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 417 31 13, www.library.ukma.kiev.ua/amer/. English language publications. British Council D-2, I-1, Skovorody 4/12, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 490 56 00, www.britishcouncil. org.ua. QOpen 13:00 - 19:30, Sat 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. French Cultural Centre G-2, O. Honchara 84, MU- niversytet, tel. (+380) 44 482 06 72/(+380) 44 482 23 71, www.ifu.com.ua. QOpen 15:00 - 18:00. Tue, Thu 10:00 - 13:00, 15:00 - 18:00; Sat. 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Goethe Institute D-2, I-1, Volos’ka 12/4, MKontrak- tova ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 496 97 85, www.goethe. de/kiew. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30, Tue, Fri 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Italian Culture Institute B-2, H-2, Yaroslaviv Val 32B, December MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 270 62 23, fax (+380) 44 279 38 42, www.iickiev.esteri.it. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 13 P.Tchaikovsky Swan Lake Ballet 15:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 14 G.Verdi Aida Opera, in Kyiv Islamic Social Cultural Centre E-1, Dehtyarivs’ka Italian 25A, MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 490 99 00/(+380) 15 K. Szymanowski Krol Roger Opera 44 490 99 96, [email protected], www.arraid.org. 17 Romance Evening Concert Polish Institute A-3, H-2, B. Khmel’nytskoho 29/2, #17, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 288 03 04, www. 18 8th St. Nikolas Charity Concert- Concert polinst.kiev.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 20 N. Paganini, M. Caprices (Premiere) Ballet Ukraine-Japan Centre F-2, Peremohy prosp. 37, Skoryk M N. Paganini, M. Politekhnichnyi Instytut, tel. (+380) 44 406 81 66, 22 Skoryk Caprices (Premiere) Ballet www.uajc.com.ua. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. 23 G.Puccini Madama Butterfly Opera, in Italian Opera, in Cinemas 24 G.Verdi Masked Ball Italian Opera, in Butterfly Bilshovyk E-2, Het‘mana 6, Bilshovyk Shop- 25 V. Bellini Norma Italian ping Mall, MShuliavs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 200 90 10, www.kino-butterfly.com.ua. Tickets 15 - 90Hr. 26 P.Tchaikovsky The Ballet Butterfly Deluxe H-4, Gor‘koho 50, MOlimpiys’ka, tel. 27 Eteri Lamoris Spain Music Concert Concert (+380) 44 206 13 20. Q Tickets 15 - 90Hr. 28 H. Makarenko 8th New Year Strauss Concert Butterfly Petrivka M-4, Moskovs‘kyi prosp. 6, MPetriv- ka, tel. (+380) 44 536 04 84. Q Tickets 15 -60Hr. 29 H. Makarenko 8th New Year Strauss Concert Kinopalats C-4, Instytuts‘ka 1, MMaidan Nezalezh- 30 G.Bizet Carmen Opera, in nosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 72 23, www.kinopalace.net. Italian Q Tickets 15 - 90Hr. 31 P.Tchaikovsky The Nutcracker Ballet Kyiv A-5, Chervonoarmiys‘ka 19, ML‘va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 234 73 81, www.kievkino.com.ua. Taras Shevchenko National Opera of Ukraine Q Tickets 20 - 60Hr. A-4, Volodymyrs’ka 50, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 234 71 65/(+380) 44 279 11 69, www.opera. Kyivs‘ka Rus G-1, Artema 93, MLuk‘yanivs‘ka, tel. com.ua. Home of the country’s most famous opera and (+380) 44 486 74 74, www.kievrus.com.ua. Ukraine‘s ballet company. This is a must visit venue for all travellers. biggest screen, and one of Europe‘s largest, at 26m x 11m. Performances are always outstanding and the humble Also a café, bar and billiards. Q Tickets 12 - 36Hr. ticket prices (15-80Hr) make this the city’s best value in Multiplex IMAX O-5, Moskovs‘kyi prosp. 34B, Block- entertainment. All performances start at 19:00. Baster Shopping Mall, MPetrivka, tel. (+380) 44 498 48 32. Q Tickets 20 - 100Hr. Odesa Kino G-2, Peremohy prosp. 3, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 496 15 11, www.kinoodessa.com. Q Tickets 17 - 50Hr. Ukraina C-4, Horodets‘koho 5, MKhreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 279 63 01, www.kino-ukraina.com.ua. Q Tickets 15 - 56Hr. Zhovten D-1, Kostiantynivs‘ka 26, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 425 89 09, www.zhovten-kino. kiev.ua. Q Tickets 16-35Hr, sofa for two spectators 60Hr.

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Culture & Events 11

Theatres Mamajeva Sloboda Café-Theatre Koleso C-2, Andriivs‘kyi uzviz 8, MKon- traktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 425 05 27, www. koleso.teatr.kiev.ua. The audience is invited to participate in humorous, folklore-based programmes staged in this café setting. Q Tickets 20-50Hr. Ivan Franko National Academic Drama Theatre C-5, I.Franka pl. 3, MKhreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 279 59 21, www.franko-theatre.kiev.ua. The repertoire consists of classical, dramatic and musical performances. Performances are in Ukrainian. Q Tickets 15 - 150Hr. Kyiv Academy Doll Theatre D-4, M.Hrushevs‘koho, 1A, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 04 99, www. academpuppet.kiev.ua. The repertoire includes a wide vari- ety of children‘s shows and ticket prices are very reasonable. Kyiv Theatre of Operetta H-3, Chervonoarmiys‘ka 53/3, MOlimpiys’ka, tel. (+380) 44 287 62 57, www. kiev-operetta.kiev.ua. Cossack’s Settlement Mamajeva Sloboda Kyiv Young Theatre B-4, Prorizna 17, MZoloti Vorota, E-3, Dontsia 2, tel. (+380) 44 361 98 48/(+380) tel. (+380) 44 234 62 51. Innovative performance styles 063 782 78 31 (excursions department), www. based on classical productions, incorporating modern inter- mamajeva-sloboda.ua. In the middle of XVII century pretations of historical experience. French engineer and cartographer Guillaume Le Vas- Lesya Ukrainka Russian Drama Theatre B-4, seur de Beauplan said “Ukraina est Terra Cosacorum” B.Khmel‘nyts‘koho 5, MTeatral‘na, tel. (+380) 44 234 (Ukraine is a Land of Cossacs). Almost 400 years after 42 23, www.rusdram.com.ua. This tradition-rich Russian in seven kilometers from the main street of Ukraine’s venue was established in 1926 and is often referred to as the capital an open-air museum Mamajeva Sloboda Cos- ‘theatre of the human soul’. Q Tickets 7-75Hr. sacs’ Village has been settled. The Cossack’s Sloboda with its 98 exhibition objects is located on the 9 hectares and represent replicas of historical settlement depicting Guitar Music Ukrainian nature and lifestyle of the old times. In just few steps from the main gate of the settlement International Festival of Guitar Music Kyiv 2011 (Tsarina) you feel yourself transferred into the Cossacks epoch of the 17th – 18th centuries. Then after visiting the December unique Cossacks three-domed wooden church founded Solemn Opening of the Festival and Competition in the name of Intercession of the Holy Virgin you’ll be 13 Duet of Guitarists - Lorenzo Micheli and Matteo treated as the most welcome visitor of the estates of a Mela (Italy) Churchwarden, a Potter, a Blacksmith, a Cossack-dzhura (Cossack armour bearer) and a Fortune-teller. 15 Juan Francisco Padilla (Spain) Except just walking around and watching Mamajeva 16 Krzysztof Meisinger (Poland) Sloboda offers excursions and folk craft master-classes, horse riding, driving a horse-drawn carriage, firing a salute from Cossack’s cannons, arrangement of genu- 17 Symphony Orchestra of the National Philharmonic of Ukraine, conductor – Igor Palkin ine Ukrainian weddings and banquets according to old traditions and many more. We also can recommend Final Concert of the Festival and Competition Symphony Orchestra of the National Philharmonic you to taste historical traditional dishes in their shynok of Ukraine, conductor – Igor Palkin; Andriy (Ukrainian restaurant). QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Excur- 18 Ostapenko (Ukraine), Krzysztof Meisinger (Poland) sions 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 40Hr, 10Hr for children. Juan Francisco Padilla (Spain), Lorenzo Micheli and Excursions in English, German, French, Italian and Chi- Matteo Mela (Italy) nese are available, but must be arranged in advance. For group under 10 people excursion costs 320Hr, for more National Philharmonic (NP) D-4, Volodymyrs‘kyi than ten - 30Hr per person. uzviz 2, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 16 97, www.filarmonia.com.ua. Q Concerts start at 19:00..

Where to get tickets Tickets to most major events are available from: Karabas A-5, Metrograd mall (from Novyi Proizd), MLva Tolstoho, tel.(+380) 44 590 55 55, www. karabas.com. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Parter A-5, Horodetskoho 8 (Red Double Bus), MMaid- an Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 287 87 87, www.part- er.ua. Web-site available in English.QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 12 Culture & Events Where to stay

National Philharmonic December 12 Magic Guitar. Performed by Pavlo Kuhta (Belarus). 11 J.S. Bach Chamber Music Evening. National The programme features works by F. Tarrega, A. Chamber Ensemble “Kyivski solisty”. The set of six Barrios, H. Rodrigo, A. Ginastera, A. Piazolla, S. harpsichord concertos. Assad, V. Zakharov, J. K. Mertz, 13-18 International Festival of Guitar Music. K. Reinhard, A. Jobim. 19 St. Nicolas Day National Music Concert. 13 Dixit Dominus. The programme features works by Performed by national music orchestras. The J. S. Bach, G. F. Handel, H. Pursell. programme features works by N. Rizol, 14 Now We Have Christmas. Performed by Municipal O. Osadchy, V. Dovzhenko, V. Chernikov, Academy Male chapel named by L. Revutsky. M. Stetsyun and Ukrainian national music. The programme features carols and national 20 National Choir “Pochaina” and National Symphonic Christmas songs. Orchestra of Ukraine. The programme features 15 Kyiv Chamber Orchestra. The programme features works by M. Berezovsky, A. Vedel, works by J. S. Bach, A. Mozart, A. Pärt, M. Verikovsky, A. Karamanov, V. Stepurk. B. Britten. 21 Vocal Music Evening. The ensemble of folk 16 To Commemorate the Master Yevgen Dushchenko. instruments Ridni Naspiv. The programme features Performed by Philharmonic Academy Symphonic works by M. Glinka, P.Tchaikovsky, N. Rimsky- Orchestra. The programme features works by Korsakov, F. Tosti, C. Bixio, V. Valente, F. Liszt, P. Tchaikovsky, A. Dvorak, J. Verdi, E. Tagliatelli, S. Cardillo, E. Curtis, A. Lari, M. Lysenko. A. Kos-Anatolsky, P. Maiboroda, O. Bilash. 17 Musical and His Music Relatives. The programme 22 Jazz Classics. Performed by Kyiv Saxophone features works by L. Bernstein, M. Wilson, Quartet. The programme features works by A. L. Webber, R. Rogers. J. Bach, J. Leclair, J. Strauss, D. Brubeck, 18 Concert by R. Schumann and A. Bruckner. National G. Gershwin, M. Velaskes, G. Miller, D. Ellington. Academy Symphony Orchestra of Ukraine. Soloist 23 The art of piano play. Performed by Symphonic – A. Kashchenko (piano). The programme features Orchestra of National Philharmonic. The programme works by R. Schumann and A. Bruckner. features works by S. Rachmaninoff, N. Rimsky- 19 Old Russian Love Songs. Ensemble of National Korsakov. Instruments “Ridni Naspivy”. The programme 25 Russian National Music Evening. Performed by features works by O. Varlamov, B. Fomin, National Academy Orchestra of Folk Instruments M.Perrote, V. Borysov, S. Donaurov, of Russia named after M. Osipov. The programme M. Shyryaev, P. Bulakhov, O. Dyubyuk, features works by A. Borodin, P.Tchaikovsky, M. Steinberg, N. Kharito, A. Spiro, O.Obukhov. G. Sviridov, V. Andreev, V.Horodovsky, 20 Operetta Evening. Performed by Philharmonic A. Tsygankov. Academy Symphony Orchestra of Ukraine. 27 New Year’s Straussiana. Performed by National Conductor – M. Dyadyura. Brass Band of Ukraine. The programme features 21 The Art of Piano Play. The programme features works by Johann Strauss, Sr., Johann Strauss, works by L. Beethoven, J. Brahms, F. Chopin, Jr., Josef Strauss. F. Liszt. 28 Chamber Music Evening. Kyiv Chamber Orchestra. 22 Christmas Concert. Chamber Choir “Kyiv”. The The programme features works by A. Corelli, programme features works by V. Stepurko and A. Vivaldi, V. A. Mozart, J. Haydn. Ukrainian Christmas songs. 22 Tabula Rasa. National Chamber Ensemble “Kyiv January Soloists”. The programme features works by 3 Concert “Oi kolyada, kolyadnytsya..!” Performed A. Pärt, V. Polyova, H. Villa-Lobos, B. Silvestrov. by National Bandura Chapel of Ukraine. The 25 Symphonic Music Concert. National Academic programme features carols, Ukrainian national Symphonic Orchestra of Ukraine. The programme music, Ukrainian and foreign classical music. features works by D. Popper, F. Schubert, 4 Astor Piazzolla “The Tango of Freedom”. C. Saint-Saëns, H. Berlioz. Performed by string quartet Caprice-Classic. 26 Anniversary Concert. The programme features 5 Jazz Themes with Improvisation. Author’s concert works by G. Rossini, G. Donizetti, G. Verdi, by Neonila Lagodyuk (piano). With accompaniment J. Bizet, C. Saint-Saëns. by Kyiv Saxophone Quartet and Piano Duet “Tet-a- 27 Russian Symphonic Music Evening. Performed Tet”. by Philharmonic Academic Symphonic Orchestra of 7 5th International Festival “Music Meetings”. Ukraine. The programme features works by Christmas Choir Concert. The programme V. Kalinnikov and S. Rachmaninoff. features carols. 28 Christmas. Performed by the Choir of boys and 8 Christmas in Kyiv. Performed by Children Choir. young men, Municipal Academy Male Chapel and Conductor Konstanzia Fortunato (USA). The Children choir “Vohnyk”. programme features works by J. S. Bach, G. F. 29 Christmas Concert. Performed by Male Choir Handel and Ukrainian carols. “Optyna Pustyn” (Russia). The programme features 9 Christmas Concert. Performed by Folk Ensemble kontakions, masterpieces of composers of 19- “Bozhychi”. The programme features traditional 20th centuries and national songs. carols, national songs. 10 Concert “And my song is floating to you…” Performed by Ruslana Shyshkina (mezzo-soprano). National Philharmonic (NP) D-4, Volodymyrs‘kyi The programme features works by P. Maiboroda, uzviz 2, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 M. Skoryk, O.Bilash, I. Poklad, B. Buyevsky, K. 16 97, www.filarmonia.com.ua. Q Tickets 30-120Hr. Myaskov, T. Albinoni, J. Kern, K. Velaskes.

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Where to stay 13

Cream of the Crop Symbol key Hyatt Regency Kyiv C-3, A.Tarasovoi 5A, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 581 12 34, fax (+380) 44 P Air-conditioning L Guarded parking 581 12 35, www.kyiv.regency.hyatt.com. Hyatt Regency 6 Animal friendly R Internet Kyiv is centrally located in the historical centre on Sofiivs’ka Square. The hotel is the ideal address for business and T Child friendly M Nearest metro station leisure travellers alike. With high-tech communications and H Conference facilities G Non-smoking rooms ergonomic working areas, 234 spacious deluxe rooms and 25 suites provide the perfect setting for the discerning global A Credit cards accepted K Restaurant business traveller. Luxurious bathrooms with underfloor J City centre location D Sauna heating, deep-soaking baths and exceptional rain showers create a unique in-room experience. State-of-the-art meeting F Fitness centre C Swimming pool and banquet facilities with 1,000 square meters of function U Facilities for the disabled W Wi-Fi internet access space accommodate all needs, from small meetings to large-scale events. Luxurious Spa Natural with its advanced Intercontinental C-3, Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka 2A, MMaid- treatments to rejuvenate body and soul, a sophisticated an Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 219 19 19, www.inter- gym with the latest equipment, a 25-meter swimming pool, continental.com/kiev. Intercontinental has been setting the unique restaurants and bars and the exclusive Regency bar in the hotel industry for decades, and its expansion into the Club® make Hyatt Regency Kyiv a true paradise in the world Kyiv market represents a much needed infusion of competition of hospitality. Q234 rooms (standard €328 - 585, deluxe in the “cream of the crop” end of the accommodation spectrum. €353 - 610, club €378 - 635, regency suite €660 - 835). Its location near Mykhailivs’ka ploscha (square) offers tourists PTJHAR6UFLGKDCW hhhhh and business travellers access to the best Kyiv has to offer. Rooms range from stylish to elegant and come equipped with all imaginable amenities. Notable hotel facilities and services Door smarts include a fitness centre, swimming pool, spa, business centre and travel services. Conference facilities can accommodate a A quick yet indispensable guide to those embarrassing whopping 800 participants, and the stunning ball room seats moments in front of a foreign door. 400. The available dining and entertainment options are hard Pull На себе На себя to top. Relax with coffee and dessert in the Lobby Lounge or Push Від себе От себя pop into the Lobby Bar for a cigar and cocktails. Located on the Open Відчинено Открыто 11th floor, the b-Hush Rooftop Caviar Bar is open for dinner and Closed Зачинено Закрыто offers an impressive selection of exclusive dishes and an unfor- gettable view of the city centre. Brimming with tasty Italian and Mediterranean cuisine, Olivera is your laidback dining option,

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 14 Where to stay

Radisson BLU B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 22, MZoloti Vorota, Accomodation in Kyiv tel. (+380) 44 492 22 00, fax (+380) 44 492 22 10, [email protected], www.radissonblu. As with all emerging Eastern European countries, the com.ua/hotel-kiev. Radisson hotels worldwide have a repu- quality and service on offer in Ukraine’s hotels and apart- tation for excellence and Kyiv’s is no exception. The Radisson ments can vary to the greatest degree, and Kyiv is only SAS Kyiv offers its guests wireless access to the Internet now beginning to showcase its traditions of fine service. around the clock, and for the technologically challenged the Although there is still a shortage of upscale accommoda- IT-savvy concierge is a classy touch. The spacious rooms, tion in the city centre, many smaller and less prestigious furnished in three different styles, include plenty of satellite hotels and apartments are beginning to appear. Private TV channels, in-house movies, coffee/teamaker, a trouser companies offering newly renovated apartments can press, safe and hairdryer. Business class rooms and suites meet the needs of almost any clientele, and renting an are more spacious and include a few extra perks like buffet apartment on a nightly basis is a sensible alternative to breakfast and daily newspapers. The hotel is well geared-up a hotel. It’s considerably cheaper, and the advantages for events, with its state-of-the art conference facilities avail- of privacy, a kitchen and more space in general are real. able for meetings or banquets. Q255 rooms (183 standards Hotels remain most people’s first choice however, and €200 - 292, 49 business class €242 - 334, 22 suites €375 new places are being constructed all over the city. Like - 517, 1 presidental €917). Breakfast is not included in the Kyiv In Your Pocket, the city is growing... Prices include price of a standard room. PTJHARUFLG� breakfast and VAT (20%), unless otherwise stated. KDW hhhh Riviera on Podol D-3, Sahaidachnoho 15, MPoshtova and Comme Il Faut is an elegant French restaurant offering the ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 581 28 28, fax (+380) 44 581 28 finest in Parisian inspired cuisine. Q273 rooms (classic €307 68, [email protected], www.rivierahotel.com.ua. - 435, deluxe €330 - 465, club deluxe €382 - 535, club execu- Riviera hotel is located in the historical part of Kyiv - in . tive €405 - 565, ambassador suite €682 - 910). hhhhh Such a suitable location makes it easy to reach main business and sightseeing areas of the city such as Andriivs’kyi uzviz, M Opera A-3, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 53, , tel./ Mykhailivs’ka and Sofiivs’ka Squares and Khreschatyk street. fax (+380) 44 581 70 70, [email protected], Through the windows of your room you can enjoy the view www.opera-hotel.com. The Opera Hotel is a luxury boutique of the Dnipro River and historical Podil. Each room includes hotel which offers something unique for its guests. Staying in controlled air-conditioning. Home-like cosiness, high-quality the Opera Hotel, you will not only enjoy the exquisite interior service and an individual approach to each guest makes Rivi- design, feast on fabulous food and enjoy a glass of exquisite era Hotel attractive to business travellers and tourists alike. wine near a fireplace, but you will also feel right at home, al- Q79 rooms (standard €220 - 240, junior suite €290, suite though home may be oceans away. The Opera Hotel is located €350, apartment €420). PHARUFGKD hhhh just 15 minutes from downtown Kyiv and Khreschatyk Street allowing one to be in touch with Kyiv’s business and social life, Vozdvyzhens’kyi Boutique Hotel C-2, Vozdvyzhens’ka but away from the busy downtown area. Business club, lobby 60, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 531 99 00, lounge, conference rooms and spa and fitness club are all a fax (+380) 44 462 58 43, [email protected], www. part of the luxury facilities offered to guests. Q136 rooms vozdvyzhensky.com. This is one of the most elegant and (standards 5250 - 5540Hr, superiors 6350 - 6640Hr, suites conceptual places in the capital - an ideal choice for business 10300 - 10590Hr). POARUFLGKD hhhhh travel and elite relaxation. The hotel’s unique location, in the heart of a protected architectural monument of ancient M Podol Plaza D-2, Kostiantynivs’ka 7A, Kontraktova Kyiv, adds a special aura. The hotel’s smart façade faces Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 503 92 92/(+380) 44 503 92 03, Andriivs’kyi uzviz and the Terrace Restaurant is secluded by fax (+380) 44 503 92 20, reservation@podolplazahotel. the surrounding green hills that provide a breathtaking pano- com.ua, www.podolplazahotel.com.ua/en. This four-star ramic view. The pleasant staff and interior create a pleasant boutique hotel creates a distinctive charm of elegance and homelike atmosphere. Rooms are decorated in different antique style in the historical centre of Kyiv. Located just a few styles from chic and modern to sophisticated and elegant. steps from the city’s best museums and most spectacular The windows open up on a cosy internal courtyard or on the Orthodox cathedrals, it has all the advantages of a larger picturesque Andriivs’kyi uzviz. All 24 rooms, including the two establishment, yet exudes the warmth, intimacy and attention deluxe suites and the two exclusive suites, come with Jacuzzi, to detail that only a privately-owned hotel can. The hotel’s Gal- “Club” and “Boudoir”, air-conditioning, mini bar, satellite TV lery Restaurant combines traditional cuisine with new flavours and Internet access. The conference hall accommodates and is equally appropriate for both business lunches and up to 100. There is a smaller hall for private meetings. Other dinners. The bar is a perfect place to numb your senses after Q perks include a summer terrace with a splendid view of the a hectic day. 57 rooms (singles 1650 - 2000Hr, doubles surrounding green hills and Podil, parking, banqueting, rewards 1900 - 2400Hr, twin 1900 - 2200Hr, suites 2800 - 3300Hr, programme, tailor-made service for every client and a special PHALK hhhh apartments 5500Hr). offer for those just married. Q25 rooms (9 singles €93 - 113, Premier Palace A-5, T.Shevchenka bul’v./Pushkins’ka 12 doubles €121 - 125, 2 suites €205 - 210, 2 exclusive 5-7/29, MTeatral’na, tel. (+380) 44 244 12 01/ €195 - 225). PHARLBKW hhhh (+380) 44 244 12 11, fax (+380) 44 279 87 72, info@ premier-palace.com, www.premier-palace.com. Kyiv’s first five-star hotel lives up to its name and more. Each room has a fully-interactive TV and internet system, along with a telephone and SOS alarm in the bathroom. The fabulous fit- ness centre with a gorgeous pool is opened to guests from €1 = 10.70Hr; US$1 = 7.99Hr; £1 = 12.49Hr 07:00 to 23:00. Q289 rooms (142 Classic Rooms €310 - (5 December 2011 official rates) 375, 115 Premier Rooms €400 - 450, 29 Suite €475 - 575, 3 Apartment €1000 - 3200). POHARUFLGK� DCW hhhhh

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Where to stay 15

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 16 Where to stay

ride by Pobedy prosp. to Khreschatyk. Each room is equipped Upmarket with working area, safe, mini-bar, coffee and tea. For business Bakkara Art-hotel K-3, Venetian Island 1 (near the visitors there is a business centre and business areas on Metro Bridge), MHydropark, tel. (+380) 44 537 73 37, each floor. The hotel’s restaurant offers German cuisine. www.bakkara-hotel.com.ua. Kyiv’s riverfront has boomed Q 160 rooms (80 singles €99, 63 doubles €99, 7 delux in recent years and the Bakkara Art-hotel is definitely a fine €139, 10 suites €179). PHAUFLGKW addition to what is becoming one of the city’s hotspots. The Dnipro C-4, Khreschatyk 1/2, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, hotel offers charm and class with prices that make sense. tel. (+380) 44 278 09 89, fax (+380) 44 254 67 65, The rooms are fashionably decorated and comfortable. Room [email protected], www.dniprohotel.ua/en. amenities include air conditioning, electronic security system, One of the best four star hotels in Ukraine. This 12-storey TV, free Wi-Fi, personal safe, hairdryer, mini-bar, telephone with hotel was built in 1964 in the centre of the business, political direct international access and striking views of the Dnipro and cultural heart of the city. The majority of the rooms are River and Kyiv hills. The hotel was the brainchild of the Kozy- recently renovated; some of the rooms have a spectacular naya Karta restaurant chain, so expect top notch service and view of the Dnipro river. All rooms have air-conditioning, inter- fare at the restaurant. The complimentary buffet breakfast is net, satellite TV and individually controlled central heating. a crowd pleaser and the chef’s special seafood salads and Q186 rooms (87 singles €70 - 98, 51 doubles €118 - 162, baked veal come highly recommended. The conference room 7 junior suites €168 - 222, 41 suites €198 - 238). PO� can accommodate up to 80, can be divided into two smaller HARFLGKDCW hhhh rooms and comes fully equipped. Q200 rooms (Standard 750Hr, Classic 850 - 950Hr, Deluxe 1400 - 1500Hr, Luxe Domus D-1, Yaroslavs’ka 19, MKontraktova Ploscha, 2500 - 2800Hr). PHALKW tel. (+380) 44 462 51 20, fax (+380) 44 462 51 45, [email protected], www.domus-hotel.kiev. new ua. The private management at this medium-sized Podil Cosmopolite E-2, Vadyma Het’mana 6, build. A, А’, establishment does a very good job fulfilling their claim to be MShuliavs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 205 35 20, fax (+380) Kyiv’s only business-class hotel. All of its rooms have special 44 205 35 21, [email protected], www. orthopaedic mattresses and allergic-proof bed accessories cosmopolite-kiev.com. The new business hotel is built in for the fussy businessperson. Modern décor and stylishly Constructivism style, which suites to the surrounding area subtle lighting add to the sophisticated atmosphere, and and Bil’shovyk Shopping Mall nearby. But except of bright the big comfy beds don’t hurt either. Q31 rooms (singles avant-garde façade, the hotel has truly impressive interior. 1100 - 1200Hr, doubles 1400Hr, suites 1700Hr, suite superior Each of the hotel’s five floors is designed in a style dedicated 1950Hr, unit 3000Hr). PHAKW to one of the prominent artists of Constructivism and holds a small museum room of each painter. The hotel’s location isn’t ibis Kiev Shevchenko Boulevard G-2, T. Shevchenka central, however staying there you’ll be within easy access bul’v. 25, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 591 22 22, to all major business and leisure facilities, with a 10 minutes fax (+380) 44 591 22 33, [email protected], www.

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Where to stay 17 ibishotel.com. This beautiful new hotel is one of the best we have seen come along in awhile. The décor is a unique quasi art-deco-modern design; simple, yet elegant. A decently priced restaurant is open from 12:00-23:00 and there is a 24 hour bar. All rooms are fully equipped and range from 680Hr for a double to 2500Hr for a suite with a conference area, bar, and king sized bedroom. The staff is very helpful and English speaking. Breakfast 90Hr. Q212 rooms (113 doubles 680 - 800Hr, 72 Twin 680 - 800Hr, 1 Suite 2500Hr, 5 Disable 680 - 800Hr, 21 Family Room 1020 - 1200Hr). PA6UGK hhh Impressa D-3, Sahaidachnoho 21, MPoshtova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 239 29 39, fax (+380) 44 463 79 02, [email protected], www.impressa.com.ua. We readily agree with Impressa’s claim to be the city’s “best small luxury hotel”, with each of the rooms attentively and delightfully decorated in different soft colours. The fresh and complimentary bathrobe and slippers are especially nice touches, as well as minibar and 36-channel satellite TV. All rooms are €160 on the weekend. Q18 rooms (standards €100 - 175, superior €115 - 210, suite €145 - 230, apartment €200 - 270). PARULGK hhhh Lybid G-2, Peremohy pl. 1, MVokzal’na, tel. (+380) 44 236 60 23/(+380) 44 236 95 72, fax (+380) 44 236 63 36, [email protected], www.hotel- lybid.com.ua. Named after the legendary sister of Kyiv’s founders, the Lybid is situated in the business heart of Kyiv. All rooms are bright and have pleasant wooden furniture plus air-conditioning, satellite TV, refrigerator and hairdryer. Guests in singles can stretch out and relax on a king-size bed. There are a lot of restaurants and stores in the area, as well as the circus and Ukraina shopping mall. The central train station and the downtown area are within easy reach by public transport. Q273 rooms (159 singles 676 - 870Hr, 82 doubles 836 - 994Hr, 3 junior suite 880 - 1266Hr, 27 suite 1171 - 1654Hr, 1 business suite 1633 - 2142Hr, 1 exclusive suite 1894 - 2468Hr). PTHARULGKW hhh President Hotel A-6, Hospytal’na 12, MPalats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 256 32 56/(+380) 44 256 38 56, fax (+380) 44 256 32 53, [email protected]. ua, www.president-hotel.com.ua. The President’s sur- roundings are surprisingly tranquil considering its proximity to centre. The hotel has 372 bedrooms of varying comfort and size (singles, doubles, suites and apartments), a busi- ness centre, restaurant, bar, health and beauty complex, underground parking, airport transfers and even a chauffeur. This is a popular venue for all sorts of events, and its confer- ence suite has rooms holding as few as 10 or as many as 450 people. Q322 rooms (suites €340 - 380, apartments €600 - 700, economy €90 - 110, standards €115 - 135, standards superior €230 - 260, junior suites €240 - 270, junior suites superior €280 - 320, disabled €280 - 320). POHARFLGKDCW hhhh Rus A-6, Hospytal’na 4, MPalats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 256 40 00/(+380) 44 256 40 20, fax (+380) 44 256 40 05, [email protected], www.hotelrus.kiev. ua. For football fans who are allergic to crowds, the rooms on the upper floors of the Rus are perfect, offering superb views of Olympic Stadium. The prices, which vary depending on the number of guests in a room, aren’t cheap, and both singles and doubles are a bit small. They are smart and well furnished however, and the hotel boasts no fewer than seven restaurants. There is also a business centre and three conference halls are at your disposal. Prices are cheaper at the weekends, and there are discounts for long stays. Q450 rooms (singles 870 - 1110Hr, doubles 990 - 1230Hr, business-class rooms 1220 - 1340Hr, suites 1550 - 1850Hr, superior suite 2000 - 2200Hr). PHARLGKW hhh kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 18 Where to stay

Visak O-2, Obolons’ka Naberezhna 17, MObolon’, tel./ a multilingual front desk staff, housekeeping services, 24/7 fax (+380) 44 581 73 60, [email protected], www. security, doorman and free on-site parking. The other build- visak-hotel.com.ua. Located on a hushed pedestrian river- ing of Senator Apartments is at G-2, Dmytrivs’ka 62/20, walkway in the ’ district, this is a fine choice for business tel. (+380) 44 220 05 55. Q Apartments available for rent: conferences or for travellers looking to avoid those bustling 1 room - €115-130, 2 rooms from €235-250, 4 rooms from distractions in centre. Rooms are modern, elegant and come €470-500. Long-term and corporate rates are negotiable.27 equipped with air-conditioning, satellite TV, mini-bar, safe and rooms (apartments €130 - 225). PTHARL Internet connection. Conference-goers will be impressed by the Senator Apartments Executive Court G-2, two modern conference rooms. The hotel’s restaurant (open Dmytrivska 62/20, MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 11:00 - 23:00) has an elegant atmosphere and the menu is 220 05 55, fax (+380) 44 220 03 33, executivecourt@ highlighted by a tantalizing fish plate and intriguing veal and pork senator-apartments.com, www.senator-apartments. dishes. A private dining room is available for up to 15 and the com. Located in a newly constructed building in a quiet summer terrace has pleasant views of the Dnipro and adjacent neighborhood on the edge of downtown, the Executive Court park. The spa is quite impressive and offers a beauty salon, so- property includes all the great amenities as the City Center lo- larium, message room, gym and three variations of sauna (Turk- cation. The advantage of this locale is its close proximately to ish, Finish and aroma). Q singles 900 - 1100Hr, doubles 950 supermarkets and the Ukraina shopping mall. Long-term and - 1050Hr, suites 1100 - 1200Hr. PHARFLGKDC corporate rates are negotiable. Q (apartments 165 - 205L). Sherborne Guest House J-3, Sichnevyi provulok 9, Apartment hotels MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 490 96 93, fax (+380) 44 Khreschatyk Guest House B-5, Khreschatyk 29/1, 490 96 99, [email protected], www. MKhreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 253 31 30/(+380) 67 sherbornehotel.com.ua. Sherborne Guest House located in 508 66 86/(+380) 44 332 23 75/(+380) 44 235 60 one of the city’s best-loved neighbourhoods, Pechersk, near 50, [email protected], www.kiev-hotel. historical Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra with dozens of museums at.ua. Khreschatyk Guest House offers its guests spacious and art galleries provides a range of private fully serviced comfortable accommodation which is appropriate and acces- apartments. Hotels Amenities include round-the-clock recep- sible for both long-term and one-night stays. Apartments are tion, business services, private laundry and secured parking. fully equipped and furnished, with kitchen and bathroom, ranging Apartments feature spacious bedroom with king-size bed, in size from one to three rooms. Reception service available marble-tiled bathrooms and fully equipped kitchens. All apart- 24/7, making you feel at home during your stay. Q one-room ments are air-conditioned and are provided with sky/cable TV, 70 - 90US$, two-room 95 - 110US$, three room 135 - 160US$, security safe and broadband internet access. Q16 rooms four room 200US$). PARW (one-room 125US$, two-room 145 - 165US$, three-room 210US$, two-room superior 280US$). PTARLW Greguar Apartments H-4, Chervonoarmiyska 67/7, MOlimpiiska, tel. (+380) 44 498 97 90/(+380) 44 498 97 91, fax (+380) 44 498 9791, [email protected], Out of town www.greguar.com.ua. Recently opened in the Centre built to International standards, 45 executive apartments with kitchens. Landhaus Brovary, Kyivs’ka 316, Terminal Trade Many professional services available to cater to the business Centre, tel. (+380) 44 200 13 34, fax (+380) 44 200 traveler. A real French patisserie on the premises. Q45 rooms 13 35, [email protected], www.landhaus.com. (15 singles 110US$, 24 doubles 140US$, 3 junior suite 180US$, ua/eng. This hotel is a good example of harmony of both 3 suite 200 - 220US$). From $110 per night single, $140 double. modern conveniences and service. It provides everything for the demanding client - comfortable German furniture, Senator Apartments City Center A-3, Pyrohova 6, air-conditioning, personal safe, satellite TV, Internet ac- M Universytet, tel. (+380) 44 200 77 55, fax (+380) 44 cess and mini-bars. Room charge includes breakfast, 200 77 33, [email protected], www. fitness-centre services and parking. Guests also have an senator-apartments.com.ua. This serviced apartment outstanding possibility to visit the trade and entertainment complex occupies a newly renovated historical building in centre “Terminal”, which features a supermarket, fitness centre. It includes 27 fully furnished luxury apartments of centre and swimming pool, ice rink, conference and concert 1-4 rooms. All apartments are designed by a well-known halls, indoor karting, four cinemas, 24 bowling lanes, laser international architect and equipped with everything required game hall, aquapark, billiards and restaurants. Q39 rooms for a long stay. Modern kitchen, washer/dryer, high-speed (28 standards 600 - 750Hr, 6 junior suites 800 - 950Hr, 5 Internet access, satellite TV, spa baths and 42’’ plasma suites 1150Hr). POTHAFLGKDC hhh TVs are available. The comfort of your stay is supported by

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Where to stay 19

Mid-range Express G-2, Tarasa Shevchenka bul’v. 38/40, MUni- versytet, tel. (+380) 44 503 30 89, fax (+380) 44 503 Airport Hotels 30 47, [email protected], www.expresskiev.com. Walking distance from the central railway station (hence the Hotel Airport Frenkelia 3, Boryspil, tel. (+380) 44 281 name - you can even buy train tickets in the hotel), this 16 73 76, www.airport-borispol.kiev.ua/eng. Located in a floor hotel is situated near Peremohy Square, and its best quiet district of Boryspil, nine kilometers from the airport, feature is the superb Panoramic restaurant on the top floor 18 km from Kyiv proper and 34 km from the central railway is perfect for breakfast. There is an internet café, a gym, and station. Airport offers good valued suites equipped with all a billiard room. The rooms are decent-sized and reasonable you need: TV, refrigerator, kettle and air-conditioning. The value. Q143 rooms (85 singles 540 - 820Hr, 45 doubles special bus to the airport stops close by. Q36 rooms (16 630 - 990Hr, 11 junior suite 1310 - 1520Hr, 2 suite 1730 - singles 300 - 450Hr, 17 doubles 420 - 630Hr, 2 suites 2000Hr). PHARUFLGKW hhh 600 - 900Hr, 1 apartments 1080 - 1620Hr). PHA hh Khreschatik C-4, Khreschatyk 14, MMaidan Nezalezh- Hotel Boryspil tel. (+380) 44 281 71 05, www. nosti, tel. (+380) 44 596 80 00, fax (+380) 44 596 80 airport-boryspil.kiev.ua/eng. Close to Boryspil’s B Ter- 01, [email protected], www.khreschatik.kiev. minal, this is the closest you can get to the airport without ua/en. Each room at this cracking place is equipped with actually sleeping in it. Rooms are well-sized, and come telephone, satellite TV, refrigerator and air-conditioning. Given equipped with telephone and satellite TV. There is a room the location, in the heart of the business district, the tranquil- for guests with special needs on the ground floor. Q134 lity of the place is remarkable. The Khreschatik boasts two rooms (44 singles 260 - 390Hr, 49 doubles 420 - 630Hr, conference rooms, a business centre, a currency-exchange 1 apartments 800 - 1275Hr, 28 suites 470 - 780Hr, 12 desk, guarded parking and Wi-Fi Internet can be accessed family suites 470 - 900Hr). PTAUK hhh in the lobby. Weekend rates are a great value. Q130 rooms (singles 765 - 850Hr, doubles 882 - 980Hr, suites 1125 - 1250Hr, doubles superior 1575 - 1750Hr, junior suites Entuziastiv 1, MLivoberezhna, tel. (+380) superior 1710 - 1900Hr, Double De Luxe 1980 - 2200Hr). 44 561 11 11/(+380) 44 561 11 12, fax (+380) 44 PHALW hhh 561 11 70, www.hotel-slavutich.com. If you want to stay Kozats’kiy C-4, Mykhailivs’ka 1/3, MMaidan Nezalezh- on what is sometimes known as “Venetian Kyiv” (in fact the nosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 49 25/(+380) 44 279 49 14, man-made Rusanivs’kyi Island) then head to the Slavutych. fax (+380) 44 279 27 09, [email protected]. The hotel’s façade is not, it has to be said, in great shape, ua, www.kozatskiy.kiev.ua. Kozats’kyi is located in the although the views from inside are wonderful. The cheaper heart of the Ukrainian capital on Independence Square - the rooms are rather austere and more depressing than the cultural and trade centre of Kyiv. An ideal location for both brightly-coloured refurbished rooms and suites, eight of business and tourism, access to the city’s extended trans- which come with air-conditioning. Laundry and dry cleaning portation network, proximity to world renowned sites and are available. In addition there is a beauty shop, newspaper reasonable prices give this venue a remarkable competitive kiosk and souvenir stands. Breakfast is not included (65Hr). advantage. Q130 rooms (57 singles 740Hr, 34 doubles Q400 rooms (218 singles 329 - 459Hr, 158 doubles 850 - 990Hr, 29 junior suites 1380 - 1490Hr, 10 suites 429 - 845Hr, 18 junior suites 999Hr, 6 suites 1100Hr). 1590 - 1700Hr, extra bed in suites 225Hr). HAK hh OHAKC hhh Salyut (Salute) J-3, Ivana Mazepy 11B, MArsenal’na, Tourist Raisy Okipnoi 2, MLivoberezhna, tel. (+380) tel. (+380) 44 494 14 20, fax (+380) 44 280 61 30, 44 568 40 17, fax (+380) 44 517 82 53, reservation@ [email protected], www.salutehotel.kiev.ua. This hotel-tourist.kiev.ua, hotel-tourist.kiev.ua. A whole army circular structure looks as if it’s about to leave its pod above of tourists could fit into this state-run hotel, which rises up the Dnipro River and spin off into space. Great views of the 27 storeys for a wonderful view back across the Dnipro golden cupolas of Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra are afforded from River of Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra and the Motherland statue. Salyut’s elegant rooms, which contain satellite TV, refrigerator Tourist has various standards of rooms, some of which have and hairdryer. All rooms have double beds, so couples and air-conditioning. The suites are spacious and contain two very close friends should have no space problems - which TVs, a hot pot and tea cups, while the entire 10th floor is is more than we can say for the building! Q90 rooms (10 no-smoking. Breakfast included. Q377 rooms (singles 498 singles 700 - 1050Hr, 49 standard 1050Hr, 21 junior sweet - 540Hr, doubles 564 - 786Hr, junior suite 1020 - 1104Hr). 1250Hr, 10 suite 1500 - 1800Hr). POHALK hhh POHAFLKD hhh kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 20 Where to stay

Ukraine C-4, Instytuts’ka 4, MKhreschatyk, tel. (+380) Kiev Apartment Service J-3, Sichneviy Provulok 9 (1st 44 278 66 75/(+380) 44 279 03 47, fax (+380) 44 279 entrance), MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 490 96 93, hotels. 13 53, [email protected], www.ukraine- [email protected], www.kievapartmentservice.kiev.ua. Kiev hotel.kiev.ua. The hotel formerly known as Moskva (Moscow) Apartment Service offers a selection of beautifully designed now provides a much more patriotic, if not so modern, backdrop apartments where you will find all the facilities and luxury of a to Maidan Nezalezhnosti. The lobby is quite old-school, but the 4-star hotel. Every apartment has a contemporary European rooms have caught up with the times and offer cable TV with design, fitted with exquisite furniture and equipped with the movie and Internet service. Attractive décor and furniture await usual domestic appliances such as satellite/cable TV, Broad- you in higher-priced rooms, while the others lack amenities band Internet access, stereo systems, complete kitchens and including air-conditioning. Q373 rooms (singles 695 - 1107Hr, minibars. Q10 rooms (3 one-room 110 - 125US$, 4 two-room doubles 795Hr, junior sutes 997Hr, suites 1309 - 2398Hr, extra 135 - 165US$, 2 three-room 170 - 280US$). PTARL bed 170Hr). PHARFLGKD hhh Kiev for You tel. (+380) 67 242 12 24/(+380) 68 810 87 87, [email protected], www.apkiev.com.ua. Budget Comfortable, clean, fully-furnished domestic apartments in the centre of Kyiv. All are equipped with air-conditioning, Holosiivs’kyi prosp. 93, MLybids’ka, tel. Holosiivs’kyi Jacuzzi, cable or satellite TV, DVD player, high speed Inter- (+380) 44 259 76 72/(+380) 44 259 76 73, fax (+380) 44 net and independent hot-water supply. Airport and train 259 76 46, [email protected], www.hotelgolos. station pick-up and accounting receipts are also available. kiev.ua. In addition to its many nicely-priced rooms, the beautiful Q 6 one-room 50 - 85US$, 4 two-room 60 - 90US$, 2 trees and lakes of Holosiivskyi Park are a short walk away. The three-room 125 - 140US$, 1 four-room 130US$. PAR rooms have been renovated and, in addition to a flower or potted plant, have a phone and TV. Conference facilities - 204Hr per Kyiv Hotel Luxe B-4, Prorizna 18/1, office 7, 2nd floor, hour. Breakfast not included. Q196 rooms (singles 222 - 486Hr, MTeatral’na, tel. (+380) 44 490 73 09/(+380) 44 279 doubles 384 - 708Hr, triples 486Hr, junior suites 558 - 1395Hr, 28 74/(+380) 66 236 24 70, [email protected], suites 1074 - 1773Hr). PHAULGK hh www.kyivhotelluxe.com. Luxurious private apartments in the centre of Kyiv offer something for every taste including a Holosiivs’kyi prosp. 70, MLybids’ka, tel. (+380) 44 Mir flexible discount system, transfers from the airport/railway 520 26 08/(+380) 44 520 26 09, fax (+380) 44 520 26 station (on request), Internet, telephone, fax, housemaid 79, [email protected], www.hotelmir.kiev.ua. service, satellite TV, information support, currency exchange This hotel is situated near Holosiyivskiy Park and a lake. The and even a cook to rustle you up some appetising Ukrainian scenery of the neighbourhood is lovely. Not far from the hotel cuisine. Q17 rooms (3 one-room €30 - 50, 12 two-room is the National Exhibition Centre of Ukraine - a venue for many €45 - 110, 2 three-room €120 - 150). PTARULGD international exhibitions and a central bus station. Mir offers comfortable “business” and “economy” class rooms. Breakfast Olga tel. (+380) 44 237 20 06/(+380) 44 233 04 44, is not included (90Hr). The restaurant (Ukrainian and European [email protected], www.apartment-kiev.com. cuisine) offers hotel guests coffee-breaks, lunches, dinners, Nice apartments in the centre of Kyiv. All the necessities for a banquets, etc. Q270 rooms (singles 535 - 594Hr, doubles comfortable life. Double beds, satellite TV, Internet, bathroom, 621 - 690Hr, junior suites 692 - 768Hr, suites 927 - 1029Hr, kitchen, music centre, air-conditioners, washing machine, micro- apartments 1091 - 1386Hr). PHARFLK hhh wave oven, iron, etc. The location is beautiful - around Maidan and Khreschatyk. Q 4 one-room 60 - 65US$, 12 two-room 65 - 120US$, 2 three-room 100US$, 2 four-room 200 - 250US$. Apartment Rental RoomMe - web portal of short-term apartment Apartment Kiev Hotel Service B-5, Khreschatyk 29/1, rent , tel. (+380) 67 340 81 65, [email protected], MKhreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 253 31 30/(+380) 67 508 www.roomme.net/en/. This portal provides an up-to-date 66 86/(+380) 44 332 23 75/(+380) 44 235 60 50, book- range of apartments in major cities of Ukraine and option to [email protected], www.kiev-hotel-service. book an apartment online. Customers can use the internal com. Comfortable apartments in the very heart of Kyiv on a daily messaging system to get from apartment owner all neces- payment basis. Apartment Kyiv Hotel Service provides full range sary details. Using a recommendation system, clients can of hotel services with luxury, comfort and friendly atmosphere, share their opinions of the apartments where they stayed. Wi-Fi, Satellite TV, fully equipped kitchen, 24hrs reception and Q170 rooms (170 apartments €24 - 115). PAGW railway/airport transfer. Q one-room 70 - 90US$, two-room 95 - 110US$, three room 135 - 160US$, four room 200US$). AW Ukraina Viaggi B-2, Reytars’ka 30, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 353 86 73, fax (+380) 44 238 27 41, info@ Grata Apartment Service C-3, Mykhailivs’kyi prov. ukrainaviaggi.it, www.ukrainaviaggi.it. Provides a full range 9A, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 468 07 57, of travel services. Medium- and long-term apartment rental, fax (+380) 44 238 26 03, [email protected], transfer, city sightseeing tours in English, German and Italian, www.accommodation.kiev.ua. A small network of serviced restaurants and clubs reservations. Q95 rooms (38 studio apartments in the very heart of Kyiv. All apartments are €40 - 85, 24 two-room €45 - 90, 26 three-room €70 - 120, modern, well furnished, well-equipped and come with cable 5 four-room €125 - 180, 2 five-room €145 - 190). PAR TV. Drivers and interpreters are also available. Q31 rooms (10 studio €38 - 72, 16 one-room €45 - 104, 5 two-room €78 - 105). A Kiev Apartments C-4, Horodets’koho 11, office 34, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 93 685 00 76/ (+380) 68 119 00 75, [email protected], www.ki- evapts.com. Kiev Apartments offers the largest variety of fully serviced apartments in the prime centre of Kyiv. Apart- ments for every taste, budget and style. Free airport pick-up. Q studio 57 - 99US$, one-room 67 - 179US$, two-room 84 - 289US$, three-room 164 - 369US$. PA

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Where to stay 21

Hostels usual, very high standard amenities, your window overlooks Chervonoamiys’ka street and the common room window Chillout Hostel Kiev H-3, Gorkoho 22B/35, tel. (+380) overlooks the newly renovated Olympic stadium, where the final 93 332 43 06/755 07 11/755 07 11, chillouthostel@ match of Euro2012 football championship will take place. Break- gmail.com, www.chillouthostelkiev.com. Chillout is a fast is available for 20Hr. Q4 rooms (1 doubles 189Hr, 1 quads cool, albeit small, addition to Kyiv’s hostel choices. Rooms are 154Hr, 1 8-bed dorm 118Hr, 1 10-bed dorm 118Hr). PW competitively priced, clean and newly remodelled. Choose from a private double or a six or eight bed dorm. Located a short Magic Bus Kyiv H-3, Saksahans’koho 31, app. 3, ML’va walk from Shevchenko Park, L’va Tolstoho metro station and Tolstoho. When we first entered the place our first thought Khreschatyk, the neighbourhood is safe and foreigner friendly. was “cool, it’s so funny and bright”. Except of red/green/blue Other perks include complimentary breakfast, Internet, laundry, walls, there is a terrific… guess what?.. golden toilet! Hostel safe, hookah and transportation, tourism and visa information. stuff is very friendly and helpful and rooms are always clean. Q3 rooms (1 doubles 224Hr, 2 6-bed dorm 95Hr). LGW Due to its location on one of the main traffic streets, it might be a bit noisy outside, but we may apply this to a half of Kyiv City Centre C-4, Sofiivs’ka 2, apt. 10 (door code 149), hostels. Q3 rooms (2 doubles 148Hr, 1 12-bed dorm 95Hr). MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 98 263 65 06, fax (+380) 44 278 52 46, [email protected]. City Centre Really Central B-4, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 10, apt. 50, located just in one minute from Maidan Nezalezhnsti on a quiet MTeatral’na, tel. (+380) 98 263 65 06, fax (+380) 44 street which leads toward St. Sophia Cathedral. If you’re aware 278 52 46, [email protected]. We might be wrong, but of the best location, however want to avoid the busiest and you won’t find more kind and helpful staff in Kyiv hostels than most crowded places, this hostel is just for you. A wide range in Really Central. Located just 3 minutes walk from Khreshatyk of amenities are available including airport transfer, 24 hour and 5 minutes from Independence square this hostel offers an reception, Wi-Fi access, satellite TV, coffee and tee. Q7 rooms extensive freebie list which includes tea and coffee, Wi-Fi internet (1 singles 259Hr, 3 doubles 189 - 307Hr, 1 triples 142Hr, quads access, clothes washing and drying facilities, luggage storage, 139Hr, 1 5 mix dorm 127Hr, 1 8 mix dorm 116Hr). excursions to local markets, bars and clubs, local telephone calls, train ticket booking, linen and towels and more. Сode from the D’Lux Kiev Hostel B-2, Observatorna 10, apt.6, MZoloti door 140 press at the same time / second floor. Q3 rooms (1 Vorota, tel. (+380) 97 832 88 88/(+380) 44 272 61 77, doubles 184Hr, 1 triples 151Hr, 1 8-mix dorm 127Hr). RLW [email protected], www.dlux-hostel.com.ua. D’Lux Hostel’s located on one of the quietest streets of city centre, TIU Khreschatyk C-4, Khreschatyk 8B, apt. 11, but it doesn’t mean you wouldn’t find any fun around. A couple MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 50 331 18 47, of clubs are just in few minutes reach and essential sights in [email protected], www.tiu-kreschatik.kiev. few steps from the hostel. You may wonder how could hostel ua. This quaint little hostel is right in the heart of Kyiv, just a got D’Lux name? It’s not an exaggeration of owners, the place’s minute or 2 from Independence Square. Staff is very friendly really superior, with Jacuzzi installed in each of two bathrooms and English speaking. There is a room for 10 and a room for and a fireplace in a 12-bed dormitory, classy common room 2. The kitchen is spacious and fully equipped, and the “liv- and nice views from both balconies. Q5 rooms (1 doubles ing room” is quite comfortable with round the clock internet. €23, 1 quads €15, 2 8-bed dorm €12, 1 12-bed dorm €11). Everything is very clean as all wear slippers. Prices from 9 Euro per night with many excursions and “pick up“ services Down Town B-5, Kropyvnytskoho 12, apt.18 (door code available. Q (1 doubles 177Hr, 1 10-bed dorm 142Hr). PW 12), tel. (+380) 98 263 65 06, fax (+380) 44 278 52 46, [email protected]. Despite the fact that Down Town is lo- Why not? H-3, Saksahanskoho 30/3, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. cated on a very quiet street behind the Bessarabskyi Market it is (+380) 63 867 78 28, [email protected], www. just in few steps from the biggest entertainment complex Arena whynothostels.com. The day we first came to this hostel it City with a big number of bars and pubs and discos until down. was greeting its first guests, still being on small renovation. Now Choose from double or triple private or 6 bed dormitory. Q3 when all works are done it welcomes everyone with 6 rooms each rooms (1 doubles 186Hr, 1 triples 151Hr, 1 7-mix dorm 115Hr). uniquely designed. If you have only a few days in Ukraine, but want to explore the whole country - this hostel is just for you. Stay Dream Hostel A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 47, ML’va at industrial 10 bed dorm to feel yourself somewhere in Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 66 244 14 47, fax (+380) 44 484 or choose a 6 bed dorm of coupe room and imagine travelling by 50 10, [email protected], www.dream-hostel. Ukrainian trains. Soviet room or forest one, or maybe the rocket com. Dream Hostel offers its guests a most unique and friendly room, whichever you choose you’ll get the high standard service atmosphere. To be honest, the hostel owners are friends of and common set of amenities, including free breakfast and Wi-Fi, our editorial team, however we were even pickier, in our review laundry service, information support, etc. Smoking is allowed of the facilities. After all, believe it or not, Dream Hostel might only in basement. Q6 rooms (1 doubles €30, 2 quads €11, be considered as the most luxurious hostel in Kyiv. Aside from 1 twin €28, 1 8-bed dorm €10, 1 10-bed dorm €8). PGW kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 22 Restaurants Restaurants

Ukrainian Shynok I-4, Lesi Ukrainky bul’v. 28V (round tower), Blinoff H-4, Chervonoarmiyska 65, tel. (+380) 50 417 40 MPechers’ka, tel. (+380) 44 285 57 77, www.karta. 27, www.blinoff.ua. A traditional Ukrainian restaurant with ua. Right at the entrance of the restaurant guests face small several cosy rooms. One feels as if in a village home, with lots Ukrainian folk museum, with a lot different interesting exhibits. of Knick knacks memorabilia from the “old days”. The menu Delicious smells of fresh bakery, home-made and other contains Slavic, Ukrainian and European cuisine. The prices dishes will not leave you indifferent. Shynok presents rich seem lower than we expected; a pleasant surprise. There are Ukrainian country cuisine. There is a wide selection of home- banquet faculties and a wedding party was going on when we made liqueurs nastoyanka. And also Shynok - is a perfect were there. They seemed very much at home. QOpen 09:00 place to celebrate family holidays and tasty excursions for - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PABTW foreign friends. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. PTALEGS Kult RA C-3, Volodymyrs’ka 4, MZoloti Vorota, tel. Tsarske Selo (Tsarist Village) J-4, Ivana Mazepy (+380) 44 331 59 48, www.kultra.org. This is a journey 42/1, MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 280 30 66, www. to sacred world of Oryan cuture. The staff wears traditional tsarske.kiev.ua/en/about.htm. A bit expensive, but costumes and speaks some English. The décor is “early the colourful village décor and traditional singing are quite Ukrainian”, like being in an old village. There is nothing on the entertaining, especially if you have no plans to go near a real menu that was not in the “Pagan” times, hence no tomatoes Ukrainian village. The food is traditional and tasty, and don’t or potatoes. The organic menu is reasonably priced and in forget to take your picture with the man laid out but still clutch- English. A specialty is the mustached cat fish fillet smoked ing a jug of spirits. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €€€. PALE in for 106Hr. We tried the fried trout in herbs with Varenichnaya #1 A-5, Esplanadna 28, MPalats Sportu, beets and celery and found it great! There are homemade tel. (+380) 44 287 15 39, www.2k.ua. From its opening, liquors and Ceriman herbal teas to enjoy. The place is ab- Varenichnaya #1 became a favourite for many. To Kyivites it solutely non-smoking. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAGW seems that this restaurant has always been a feature near the Koza Dereza A-1, Artema 52A, MLukianivs’ka, tel. Palace of Sport! At the entrance you will be met by a charming (+380) 44 486 00 40, www.kozadereza.kiev.ua. This is decorative pig called Varvara. There are three halls decorated known as a ‘restaurant-market’. The design is a cross between in a picturesque Philistine style of the early 20th century, and a modern and traditional Ukrainian. The cuisine is traditional summer terrace. QOpen 24hrs. PTALGBS Ukrainian and only fresh, natural products and ingredients are Vulyk (Hive) H-3, Chervonoarmiys’ka 44, ML’va Tol- used in the kitchen. Guests are urged to submit their favourite stoho, tel. (+380) 44 230 26 42. Does recipe and it may just end up on the menu. They constantly seem exotic to you? Whatever your answer, it will definitely check out new suppliers and are always on the lookout to buy seem so when visiting here. Order pickled cucumbers with homemade products. The menu is in English and the staff was honey and spring , and try a drink of Ukrainian bouquet very friendly and their English was superb. An average meal cost (thyme, chamomile and mint drawn in apple juice). How do 150-200Hr and is worth every kopek. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, you like it? Is it exotic? QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. €€. PA Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PALGXW Kureni D-6, Parkova doroha 4, tel. (+380) 44 253 17 American 24, www.carteblanche.ua/en. Kureni, one of the oldest restaurants in Kyiv, has reopened after renovations. Chef Igor Arizona BBQ D-3, Naberezhno-Khreschatyts’ka 25, Patuk offers Ukrainian cuisine and follows the modern European MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 425 24 38. Kyiv’s traditions. The restaurant represents a truly outdoor style, but first expat hangout has excellent burgers, Mexican food and it is located in the centre of the city. The Ukrainian hospitality a 49Hr business lunch. American pool and darts keep the along with a breathtaking view of the Dnipro river and surround- adults happy, while children’s parties are held every Sunday ing natural landscape make this place exceptionally unique. 11:00 - 12:30 and 15:00 - 16:30. QOpen 08:00 - 01:30. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAUILEGBXS €€€. PTABSW Lipsky Osobnyak (Lipsky Mansion) C-6, Lyps’ka 15, Goodman Steak House G-3, Zhylians’ka 75, MVokzal’na, MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 254 00 90, www.karta.ua. tel. (+380) 44 596 00 00, www.goodman.ru. Goodman This mansion is probably the world’s only home of Ukrainian Steak House is part of a European chain known for its top quality, Haute cuisine. This is only restaurant in the CIS, to receive American cut steaks. The restaurant is located near the railway three separate awards from the prestigious Wine Specta- station in a new office complex. The décor is modern, brown wood tor magazine. The meals are cooked according to 18-19th giving it a pleasant atmosphere. The menu has a lot to do with centuries’ recipes, adjusted to modern tastes. There is a steak. One item we enjoyed is the “set menu chateau for 2”. It splendid dessert card also. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00. €€€€. consists of a spinach pie, a very large steak and 2 side dishes, PAUILVEGBXS it was 700Hr and we felt it well worth it. An average meal here Mitla B-4, Prorizna 21, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 cost around 320Hr. There is a businessman’s lunch from 12-16, 278 05 48, www.mitla.com.ua. A very traditional Ukrain- costing 110-115Hr. The English menu was simple to understand ian experience right near the Golden Gate. The menu is in and most of the staff spoke English well. On Saturday and Sunday English and very reasonably priced! We sampled the borsch there is “Family time”. This is where parents can bring their children and varenyky and were not disappointed! There is seating for and leave them to play game, wear costumes and have lots of 80 with live music on Fridays and Saturdays. Private functions supervised fun. QOpen 12:00 - 00:00. PTA6GXW are welcomed. Breakfast is from 15Hr.and business lunches Sam’s Steak House H-3, Zhylians’ka 37, MOlimpiis’ka, from 43Hr. To enjoy a real Ukrainian experience, visiting Mitla tel. (+380) 44 287 20 00, www.karta.ua. The great thing is a must! QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAGXSW about Sam’s is that its personality is unique yet familiar. Pervak A-5, Rohnidyns’ka 2, ML’va Tostoho, tel. (+380) They definitely have the best bovine selection in Kyiv and 44 235 09 52, www.pervak.kiev.ua. Take a trip back in perhaps in the whole of Ukraine. The intense action around time to early 20th century Kyiv. The décor includes the show- the open grill will have you rubbernecking in anticipation of ing of silent movies, and the restaurant itself is on the site of your cut of savoury carcass. The portions are brow-raisingly a famous merchant’s house. A friendly wait staff in costumes large and the wine selection grand – a fantastic hang-out for serves up a variety of hearty Ukrainian dishes with inventive sports viewing. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTAUL� names. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€€. AE VEGBXSW

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants RestauRestaurrantsants 23

T.G.I. Friday’s A-5, Bessarabs’ka pl. 5A, MKhres- chatyk, tel. (+380) 44 235 42 64, www.fridays.com.ua/ en. Famous for decades all over the world and synonymous with great value and good times, this chain restaurant is a real piece of Americana in the heart of Kyiv. Friday’s attracts expats longing for familiar food, which comes in huge portions at reasonable prices and is served by the best staff in the city. Visitors will find the Kyiv menu has more salads and grilled than the Stateside version. The wine list is terrific and the cocktails (there are more than 400 of them) will speak for themselves. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAGS Belgian Belle Vue A-5, Saksahans’koho 7, MPalats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 390 09 00, www.belle-vue.com.ua/en/. This ‘Belgian beer café’ sports a lovely wooden interior full of mir- rors and antiques. Once your table has been cleared of ads and flyers, you’ll have room for your favourite beer plus Belgian and Ukrainian cuisine. The metre-long Belle-Vue sausage is a specialty. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PAUEBSW Le Cosmopolite B-4, Volodymyrs’ka 47, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 278 72 78. Designed in the style of early 20th century Belgian brassieres located throughout European capitals, Le Cosmopolite’s art-nouveau décor im- presses with lots of wooden panels and a marble bar. Belgian and international food is accompanied by a wide selection of Belgian beers on tap. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 02:00. €€. PALEBW Caucasian Ani H-3, Chervonoarmiys’ka 72, MOlimpiiska, tel. (+380) 44 590 25 65. This restaurant is situated on the top floor of one of Kyiv’s downtown “skyscrapers”. There is room for big parties and for romantic couples. The olma, cofta, tender leg of lamb baked in tomato sauce, hachapuri, and lavash are delicious and Quick, cheap & tasty served in style. The open kitchen allows you to observe an expe- rienced chef work his culinary magic, while live music played on Puzata D-2, Kontraktova pl. 2/1, MKon- unique national instruments will wake amazing emotions in your traktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 391 46 99, soul. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTALEGBSW www.puzatahata.com.ua. It is a great place for Mimino D-2, Spas’ka 10A, MKontraktova Ploscha, breakfast, lunch, or even dinner with your sweetheart, tel. (+380) 44 417 35 45, www.karta.ua. This Georgian and there are a wide variety of pastries on the second restaurant got its name from the popular Soviet movie floor. For people who know almost nothing about Mimino. There are delicious hachapuris, shashliks and true Ukrainian food and are not sure if it is worth spending Georgian fish and meat dishes. The Chief masterfully accom- a lot of money in a restaurant to find out what Ukrain- modates the ancient Georgian national cuisine to a modern ians like the most, it is a good opportunity for a trial taste. There is also live music. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. taste. Besides, you will find yourself in a real Ukrainian PAUILEGBXSW peasant house, so, enjoy! Also at B-4, Khreschatyk 15/4, Passage; H-3, Chervonoarmiys‘ka 40; B-5, Baseina 1/2, Bessarabska pl. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Chinese PAGSW White I-4, Lesi Ukrainky bul’v. 24, MPechers’ka, tel. (+380) 44 594 21 75, www.2k.ua. This restaurant is a marvelous maze hidden behind a glass façade. The magnificent wardrobe and bar, and the sensational staircase leading to the seven different dining rooms bestow a sense of exclusive Symbol key simplicity. The food is good, and you will find a mix of Japanese, P Air-conditioning E Live music Chinese, and European cuisine on the menu. For the full Chinese experience go for the round table: you and 11 of your closest 6 Animal friendly M Nearest station friends will fit around it. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PALGS T Child friendly G Non-smoking areas Lun Van B-4, B. Khmel’nyts’koho 26, MTeatral’na, tel. (+380) 44 279 81 91. Lun Van offers arguably the most A Credit cards accepted X Smoking section savoury and authentic Chinese in town. The beef and chicken stir- U Facilities for the disabled S Take away fry are excellent and the spicy veal will definitely have you reaching for your beer, eyes watering. Friendly and efficient service has I Fireplace B Terrace become a trademark. The private dining room accommodates L Guarded parking W Wi-Fi internet access up to 12 and is ideal for business luncheons, larger dinner groups and families with noisy children. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. €€€. V Home delivery

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 24 Restaurants

European maLLina café D-3, Sahaidachnogo 27B, MPoshtova Plos- cha, tel. (+380) 44 425 45 08, www.mallinaproject.com.ua. Belvedere J-3, Heroiv Krut aleya 1 (Slavy pl.), This easy to find oasis is on the main street in busy Podil. Once M Arsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 288 50 70. The only inside however, one feels far away from the hustle and bustle of the restaurant in Kyiv offering perfect views of the city, entirely, city. There are sofas and easy chairs downstairs for 50. Up the very therefore, justifying its name. You can see the Dnipro River, steep and old fashioned attic stairs is a cosy non smoking section Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra, Podil and the whole of the left bank for about 22. It makes one feel more at home then in a restaurant. with its modern buildings. The restaurant’s interior and There are jars of raspberry (mallina) compote everywhere. Why patio have been built in steps so that nobody misses out the fuss about raspberry’s? It’s do with the Russian proverb that on the view. Such attention to detail is found in the food too. roughly translates; “Life is like a raspberry”, or “It’s a good life”. PTAULGSW QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€€. Aside from the European, home-made and Japaneese cuisines, Déjà vu A-3, Bogdana Khmelnytskoho 30, tel. (+380) 44 there is a separate section on the menu devoted to raspberry, 235 98 02, www.dejavulegend.com. One has to see this including fillet minion. The prices are reasonable and the service place to believe it! There are 11 choppers and lots of rock and warm and friendly. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PAGXSW celebrity memorabilia scattered throughout the place. There are 2 private rooms for 12; one a Beatles theme and the other new a rock theme.A typical meal runs between 100-200Hr with MiReDo C-4, Khreschatyk 16, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, a 30% discount between 12:00-17:00. There is live music tel. (+380) 44 360 85 68, www.miredo.com.ua. A great nightly with a 50Hr cover charge. This is an experience you place to escape the hustle and bustle of the city. Located right won’t forget. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PALGSW in the centre of Kiev, this oasis is guaranteed to bring relaxation from a busy day. The décor is modern yet soothing. There is Freedom L-4, Frunze 134, MPetrivka, tel. (+380) 44 a breakfast menu and a standard business lunch from 12:00- 468 32 32, www.freedomhall.com.ua. Round the clock 16:00 for 50Hr. The main menu is European and Mediterranean food and drink is available from the restaurant & bar. There cuisine and an average meal goes for about 300Hr. There are is no English menu and the staff seems to have little inter- seasonal specials, like in the autumn there are pumpkin dishes. est in speaking English. The concert hall is huge and big There is also a discount scheme available. As the name is name groups and DJ’s from Ukraine and abroad perform synonymous with music, there is live music weekday, Monday- most, but not all nights. The entrance fee to the hall varies. Friday. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PAGXESLW QOpen 24hrs. PALGSW M.Oliv’e D-3, Sahaidachnoho 23, MPoshtova Ploscha, Karetniy B-4, Prorizna 15A, tel. (+380) 44 278 57 57, tel. (+380) 44 425 01 31, www.2k.ua. Located on one www.kareta.kiev.ua. Karetnyi has an eclectic appeal. The of Kyiv’s tourist traps (Sahaidachnoho vul.), this restaurant interior is elegant yet chic, and the menu (updated seasonally) offers hearty Ukrainian and European meals at surprisingly is loaded with a tasty selection of local and European cuisine. affordable prices. There’s a touch of mama’s kitchen in both Highlights include inviting appetisers, crisp salads, scrumptious the flavor of the meals and the ambiance. Highlights on the seafood (salmon, sea bass, lobster, etc.), goose flambé, pork menu include veal with grilled veggies, beef stroganoff with drenched in pomegranate sauce and a peppered steak. Great for mashed potatoes and pork on the bone. This is a great choice dessert and coffee, choose from rich cheesecake or tiramisu and for banquets - there happened to be a small wedding party the coffee and tea selection can satisfy all tastes and moods. (This going on while we were there. For desert we had a cappuc- place can be a bit tricky to find, it’s actually located though the cino (the biggest cup in Kyiv) and tiramisu (hands down the arch behind Prorizna 11.) QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PTALW tastiest in Kyiv). QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PAGXSW

Leto I-3, Chervonoarmiys’ka 56, MOlimpiis’ka, tel. new (+380) 44 287 10 73, www.2k.ua. The thing that sets Leto Tarelka (Plate) G-2, Dmytrivs’ka 62/20, MLukyanivs’ka, apart from other cafés and restaurants on Chervonoarmiis’ka tel. (+380) 44 220 20 60. The unique thing about Tarelka is is the inviting interior and even more inviting prices. The juicy that you get all the great food without the loud, smoky, drunken lamb kebob seasoned with Crimean onions and the specialty crowds typical for some of Kyiv’s restaurants. Being at Tarelka pelmeni (Russian-style dumplings) come highly recommended. is like being at the home of a great friend, enjoying a good meal Choose from other local and European favorites such as borsht, and your favourite beverage. The menu is in English and offers veal cutlets and stewed rabbit. Tasty breakfasts are served European cuisine and a bar offering gourmet pastas along with a until 12:00 - perfect timing for the late-to-rise night owl. Both wide variety of salads, sandwiches, snacks. Except an excellent part of the Kozirnaya Karta chain, the similarities between food, you can play table games or watch football broadcasts Leto’s and M. Oliv’e’s menus are uncanny, but we definitely on large screens and have fun all the time. Live lounge music, recommend both. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - banquet reservations for up to 20 and a cosy VIP room are avail- 24:00. €€. PTALGSW able. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PALGXS Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants 25

French new BaзAAR Braserie B-5, Besarabska pl. 2, MTeatralna, tel. (+380) 44 238 21 11, www.bazaar.kiev.ua. This is a fairly new restaurant (Summer 2011) with a lovely modern French design and located in the same building as the famous Han-Gang Besarabska market. In fact, one can get a table with a bird’s eye view of the market below. See something you like in the Korean Japanese Restaurant market, buy it, bring it up and have the kitchen prepare it while you wait. Or enjoy a dish from the menu specializing in French & Italian cuisine. There is an English menu and staff speaks some English as well. There is also a lovely cheese platter to hold you while you wait. We tried the duck breast with caramel apples for 190Hr and really enjoyed it! An average meal will run you about 250Hr-300Hr. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PAGXSW Café de Paris C-2, Andriivs’kyi Uzviz 34B, MKontraktova Doenjang-jjigae Dongtae-jjigae Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 221 22 18, www.cafe-de-paris. com.ua. This café offers a quiet retreat from the crowded 도스비드를 통하여 호텔을 bustle of Adriivs’kyi uzviz. The interior is in vogue, but the 예약하신분은 저희 식당에서 조식을 patrons are from all walks of life. Though elusive, tables near the window come with pie sliced views of the street and 하시면됩니다(오전7시부터) Andriivs’ka tserkva (St. Andrew’s Church). The homemade and signature salads are steaming and fresh, and the Beautiful view of the Dnipro River roast rack of lamb, roast duck and grilled salmon in a sweet Two VIP rooms with karaoke chilli sauce are just a few of the menu’s highlights. Breakfast service begins at 09:00, and there’s plenty of space for large The re ned taste of Korean cuisine groups. QOpen 24hrs. PTALGS Free Wi-Fi Internet Crepe de Chine G-2, Hoholivs’ka 25, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 537 70 70, www.2k.ua. This charming restaurant 1, Entuziastiv Str., Slavutich Hotel, 16 oor specializes in French crepes. The menu includes soups, salads, Tel. 294 14 14 a full Ukrainian and American breakfast, and following the trend Open 11:00 - 24:00 today in Kiev, a sushi menu. We tried the caramel, peach and crepe which was delicious! The crepe s range from 60Hr. upwards depending on the fillings. There is also a lovely international wine list. The pine décor is quite charming and relaxing. There is a smoking and a non smoking section as well Korean as a supervised children’s room on weekends. Menus are in English and the staff was very friendly and most spoke English. Han Gang Entuziastiv 1, Slavutych Hotel, 16 floor, QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. MLivoberezhna, tel. (+380) 44 294 14 14, www. Fellini C-4, Horodets’koho 5, MKhreschatyk, tel. (+380) han-gang.com.ua. Getting to this restaurant takes a 44 279 54 62. A wonderful location for people-watching, as small effort. Hop over the Dnipro to the left bank and the two terraces overlook the fashionable Ukraina cinema just the Slavutych Hotel, ascend to the 16th floor and turn off Khreschatyk. Fellini offers delicious French and Italian food, right out of the lift. Once inside you’ll discover that the including frog legs and goose liver for those who likes such minor travel hassle was well worth it. The panoramic delicacies. The food and drinks are rather expensive, and view of the right bank and the stunning domes of Kyivo- service can be slow. QOpen 24 hrs. €€€. ALW Pechers’ka Lavra is arguably the best in the city. Skip the Japanese and order the Korean - you won’t be disap- new pointed. Karaoke is available. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. C-6, Pylypa Orlyka 6, tel. Meat & Fish Josper Bar PAGSW (+380) 44 253 80 97, mf.nws.name. Opened in Autumn, 2011 this restaurant is reminiscent of what we’ve seen in Hankookkwan Zheliabova 10A, MShuliavs’ka, the French countryside with a pleasant ‘rustic’ design. There tel. (+380) 44 458 45 14/(+380) 50 387 71 92. are also a lot of mirrors in the place, so vampires beware. Hankookkwan means “Korean house”; a fitting name The cuisine is French and the specialty is Canadian lobster for a new restaurant offering authentic Korean cuisine. (French Canadian) for just 150Hr per 100g. For meat lovers Located just outside of centre, 10 minutes walk from there is US cut Ribeye steak for 360Hr and the Cowboy size the Shuliavs’ka metro station, the restaurant is rela- XXL steak for just 1,300 Hr. An average meal will cost around Q tively easy to find. Exit the metro on the north side of 500Hr per person. Open 08:00 - 23:00. Peremohy prosp. and head past Economic University Vernissage C-2, Andriivskyi Uzviz 30, tel. (+380) 44 to Zheliabova Street. Though the Korean dishes are 425 24 03, www.vernissagecafe.com/en. A recreation not to be missed, the menu also features a delicious of a Parisian bistro in the heart of Kyiv. Much of the décor is selection of Japanese favourites. This is a fine choice imported from France as is the large selection of wine. The for lunch, as seating with a view is easy to find. The cuisine is French, European, and Ukrainian and overseen by a private dining hall that accommodates up to 10 is per- real French Chef. There is the main menu, a special “seasonal” fect for business luncheons and small dinner parties. menu (both in English), and a “business lunch” (Russian only) QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAGS menu. The French-style meat courses change monthly. We tried the large and lovely Chevre Salad with warm goat’s kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 26 Restaurants

cheese for 98Hr. and really enjoyed it. Also at B-2, Artema 10, Ukrainian cuisine tel. (+380) 44 272 20 03; A-1, Turgenevs’ka 15, tel. (+380) 44 484 46 96. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. Ukrainian dishes show a sophisticated simplicity based PAGXSW on pleasing combinations of fresh, pickled, and smoked ingredients. While cooking techniques are not compli- cated, dishes may contain a great number of ingredients Indian and unusual combinations, such as shuba salad which Buddha-bar C-4, Khreschatyk 14, MMaidan Nezalezh- combines pickled herring and beets. Food is neither highly nosti, tel. (+380) 44 270 76 76, www.buddhabar.com. spiced nor bland, but skillfully seasoned to perfection. ua. Buddha Bar is a heavy hitter all over Europe and is now enjoying similar success in Ukraine’s capital. It’s safe to say Bread, is of course the mainstay of the Ukrainian diet. that this is the trendiest establishment in Kyiv. The recipe for The country’s reputation as the “breadbasket of Europe” their popularity is simple, high quality in a flashy package. For is well deserved. The French writer Honore de Balzac, a one-stop-all-inclusive-evening this ranks high on the list of who lived in Ukraine for four years, counted 77 different possibilities. Enjoy hard to find Indian, Thai and Chinese in the ways of preparing bread. It is such a central part of the restaurant, and then head to the bar or the VIP lounge. If you’d diet here that there is a custom to give honoured guests like to get a sneak peak of what’s in store for you, check out and departing or arriving travellers the gift of a loaf of Buddha’s very professional website. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, bread and salt. This tradition is still used in welcoming Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. €€€€. PALG ceremonies for dignitaries and other important persons. Himalaya B-4, Khreschatyk 23, MKhreschatyk, tel. Another staple of Ukrainian diet is kasha or what would (+380) 44 270 54 37. Scale the heights of Indian cuisine be called “mush” in America and “porridge” in Britain. at this quiet restaurant above the hustle and bustle of Khres- Borshch is certainly the national dish of Ukraine, even chatyk. The selections include tandoori dishes cooked in an making its appearance on the menus of Chinese and original clay oven at 300°C, chicken lollipop and authentic Italian restaurants in Lviv. This uniquely Ukrainian Indian cheese. They also boast a new 65Hr business lunch has been adopted by other countries in the region, but menu every week. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. €€. PAW as recently as 45 years ago it could not even be found in restaurants in other Soviet republics. The many ver- Nirvana I-4, Lesi Ukrainky bul’v. 28V, MPechers’ka, sions of borshch served throughout the country reflect tel. (+380) 44 285 52 15, www.2k.ua. Kyiv waited a long the individuality of Ukrainians as well as their ingenuity. time to get a restaurant like this. The design, interior, and the The beet-based soup can contain as many as 20 differ- cuisine completely complement the name: this really is dining ent ingredients, depending on the season, region, and Nirvana. Indian extravagance and cultural richness - not to of course, personal preference of the cook. It can be mention the delicious and authentic food - are enough to put meatless or prepared from a rich meat stock and contain anyone’s soul in a state of bliss. There are traditional Indian, either beef or smoked pork. modern European and a decent number of vegetarian dishes on the menu. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€€. PALEGW The availability of ingredients for traditional cooking are often dependent on the season, so most varieties of vegetables sometimes make their appearance in certain International dishes in their pickled form. You also might find that new certain dishes listed on a menu might not be available Antwerpen A-5, Pushkin’ska 38, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. at certain times of year. Salads are very common, but (+380) 44 234 13 00, www.antwerpen.com.ua. Have you rather than being lettuce-based, combinations of fresh, ever wanted to travel back in time? Here is your chance to visit cooked, and preserved vegetables may be mixed with Antwerp as it once was. You will know you are in the right place meat, cheese, or fish. With so many different recipes, when you see a lovely 1956 Rolls Royce Silver Wraith in the the only constant of Ukrainian salads are the presence yard. There is a French room, A Belgium room and a German of vinegar or mayonnaise. room, as well as smaller rooms with the themes of hunting Varenyky are dumplings made from boiled or fried , and sailing. This unique restaurant is definitely a “must see”. resembling ravioli without red sauce. They can be filled There is a wonderful collection of antique masterpieces, with meat, potatoes, cabbage, and sometimes mush- paintings and sculptures made of bronze by Flemish, French rooms for as an entrée, or sour cherries or sweetened and German artists who in different times lived and created cottage cheese and raisins as a dessert. Any kind can their masterpieces in Antwerp. There is also an antique organ, be accompanied by or sour crème. music boxes, porcelain, clocks of all sorts, and other antiques. The menu is in English and the staff is easy to communicate The word holubtsi can be translated into “little pigeons,” with. An average meal runs around 350Hr. We tried the leg of but really has nothing to do with fowl of any kind. They are lamb with grilled mixed veggies for 247Hr -delicious! QOpen cabbage rolls stuffed with meat and or buckwheat 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PALGW and often covered with a thin tomato sauce. Aprel’ (April) A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 25, ML’va Tol- There are many different kinds of pastries and cakes, stoho, tel. (+380) 44 235 82 06/(+380) 99 945 85 79, usually less sweet than they are made outside of conti- www.nasha-karta.com. Spring is alive and well year-round in nental Europe. A tort Kyivskiy is a local speciality, made the heart of Kyiv. Aprel is a spacious and elegant restaurant of layers of crumbly raised wafers, hazelnuts, and it even known for its grand selection of tender grilled steaks, fantastic comes in its own special green box. array of fresh seafood and romantic ambiance. During fair weather, the sun’s rays splash through the glass ceiling and For a uniquely Ukrainian drink, try kvas, a slightly sweet pinball off elegant French crystal. Surrounded by lush greenery, non-alcoholic beverage with a wheat-like taste sold from it’s like dining in an arboretum. Save room for the gourmet giant tanks on wheels in the summer throughout the city.. desserts such as the restaurant’s signature cakes, sorbet and chocolates that can be purchased and taken home for later. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PALGW

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants 27

More reviews Pizza on Kyiv restaurants are available at kyiv.inyourpocket.com

BEEF Meat & Wine A-5, Shota Rustaveli 11, MPalats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 225 00 35, www.beef.kiev.ua/en. A very large and modern complex. The staff is warm, friendly, and English speaking. The decor is modern and spacious. The prices are defined as luxurious, from 300-600+Hr.There is a somewhat discounted lunch menu. The dishes we ordered were top notch and delicious. You might wait a while on Friday’s evening, but we sure this experience worth it. There are 3 large TV screens and WiFi, and there is a banquet room for 50. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PALGBXW Bistro Cote Est B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 22, Radisson Blu Hotel, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 492 22 50. Bistro Cote Est is a modern version of a classic bistro aiming to bring together the culinary traditions of France and Ukraine. The restaurant serves simple, traditional home cuisine and drinks, inspired by the recipes of France’s Eastern regions: Alsace-Lorraine, Burgundy and the Rhone Valley, as well as Bocconcino B-6, Mechnikova 2, Parus Busi- local Ukrainian specialities. Q Open Mon - Fri 06:00 - 23:30, ness Centre, MKlovs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 593 37 Sat, Sun 07: 00 - 23:30. €€€. PAULGS 10, www.2k.ua. A restaurant and a pizzeria, very Mai-Tai Lounge H-3, Chervonoarmiis’ka 66, MOlimpiis’ka, modern and sweet venue of Italian type - reasonable tel. (+380) 44 583 55 53, www.maitai.com.ua. Enter Mai- prices, stylish interior, tasty dishes and light atmosphere. Tai and find yourself in the midst of a South Pacific Experience! QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat 11:00 - This oasis of South Pacific culture belongs to the legendary chain 04:00, Sun 11:00 - 02:00. €€. PTALGS of “Trader Vic”. In fact the drink Mai-Tai was invented by the origi- Celentano B-2, Yaroslaviv Val 37, MZoloti Vorota, nal founder, Victor Bergeron in 1944. There are always special tel. (+380) 44 272 54 62, www.pizza-celentano. events going on such as ladies nights, fashion parties and aloha com. Power to the people! This expanding pizzeria chain Friday’s. Cocktails are reasonably priced, meals slightly pricey. champions democracy by granting patrons the choice of A specialty is the ‘sushi boats’; you have to see it to believe it! their own favourite toppings from a wide range of pos- There are exotic business lunches available weekdays from sibilities. Various salads and French crêpes with different 13:00-16:00 for only 59Hr. Sometimes there is a cover charge fillings are also on offer, all to a pleasant background of for parties and events. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PALW Italian music. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PLGX Pena B-2, Yaroslaviv Val 30/18, MZoloti Vorota, tel. Momento Pizzeria and Restaurant F-4, (+380) 44 234 17 01, www.2k.ua. This expensive, image- Zlatoustivs’ka 2/4, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 conscious fusion restaurant sports an ultra-chic and aromatic 486 35 06, www.momento.kiev.ua. We ordered a interior: wicker sofas, curved walls and ceilings, and Fashion pizza, but a calzone arrived at the table. The waiter as- TV on flat screens. As for the food, there is the obligatory sured us that this was the “pizza” we had ordered. Our sushi plus different meat and seafood dishes in interesting disappointed didn’t last for long - the mysterious pizzone sauces. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PALW is actually quite tasty. The wine selection is ample, the new salads are crisp and the oregano sprinkled throughout the Shapito G-2, Honchara 77, tel. (+380) 44 486 45 21. calzone was a nice Italian touch. Open until 03:00, this is a As the name Shapito translates “circus tent” it’s no surprise great perch-post for night-owls. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. €. that this lovely restaurant and neighboring café are just a few Spagetti Pizzeria G-2, Tarasa Shevchenka bul’v. hundred meters from Kiev’s famous circus. Aside from being 44, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 234 51 81. A nice cosy a first class restaurant, there is also a children’s hall, clown Italian restaurant in a central location with mellow Italian show and exotic animals. The cuisine is International, the music in the background. There is an open kitchen which menu in English and most staff is fluent in English. We started adds to the uniqueness. The food is pretty authentic Italian with the salad “Alicia” with fried scallops, pawns, onions, and considering there is no Italian chef. We had Caesar salad avocados for just 95Hr. Then we had the salmon in mustard and spaghetti carbonara which tasted pretty much like cream sauce with scrimp for 135Hr. An average meal will the real thing. The prices are very reasonable, and there is run about 200Hr and upwards. An experience at Shapiro is always a daily special. The menu is in English and the staff well worth the visit! QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PAGXS is friendly.There is also a business lunch from 12:00-16:00 Tarantino D-2, Sahaidachnoho 35, MKontraktova Plos- costing 69Hr. (Beware when asking for parmesan-you will cha, tel. (+380) 44 463 73 90, www.tarantino.kiev.ua. pay for it dearly.) QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PALG A unique experience named in honour of the American actor- Pizzeria Napulè B-6, Mechnykova 9, MKlovs’ka, director Quentin Tarantino. This is supposedly the “1st Budget tel. (+380) 44 495 92 63, www.napule.com.ua/ Club” in Kyiv. The décor is modern-Hollywoodish on two floors. en/. This place is as authentic as it gets. A pizzaiolo The menu is reasonably priced and in English. The staff was from Naples (Giuseppe Irollo), a wooden stove built by very friendly and fluent in English. There are Italian, European, a Neapolitan master (Stefano Ferrara) from Neapolitan and Sushi dishes. We tried the pepper steak with porcini sauce materials, about 20 kinds of pizza made with special for 155Hr; delicious! There is a DJ Thursday-Sun 19:00-24 and Neapolitan flour and real Neapolitan cuisine from Adelaide Karaoke Thurs-Sat 24:00-06:00. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Thu, Zazzaro. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. PALG Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PA6IEGXSW kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 28 Restaurants

Da Vinci Fish Club C-3, Volodymyrs’ka 12, MZoloti Italian Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 490 34 34/(+380) 50 469 91 52, Al Faro H-3, Chervonoarmiis’ka 49A, MOlimpiis’ka, tel. www.da-vinci.com.ua. Italian fish restaurant is located in (+380) 44 503 50 91, [email protected], www.alfaro. the historical centre of Kyiv. The interior is very original - a com.ua. Authentic Italian fare in the heart of Kyiv...someone round bar on the first floor with a cosy balcony on the second. pinch us, we must be dreaming. Choose from a variety of The most attractive features are the two aquariums teaming classic dishes including fresh leafy salads, lasagne, penne, with live lobsters, flambé dishes, pizza from the original Italian spaghetti, grilled salmon and ribs. The authentic Italian-style oven and, of course, fresh fish and seafood. Da Vinci Fish Club pizzas come topped with fresh mozzarella, tomatoes, pro- offers great business lunch specials (12:00 - 16:00) and live sciutto, oregano, etc., and are baked next to an open flame music every evening (except Sundays) from 20:00 - 23:00.Da in an old-style oven (take-out available). We sampled the Vinci Fish Club also invites you to attend master classes by linguini with pesto, which is hands down the best in Kyiv. The its magnificent chef Salvatore De Vivo. For more details and were nice and firm - “Al dente, perfetto!” as they say in master classes schedule contact the restaurant. QOpen Sicily. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PTJAUIEGBK 11:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PALEBW Ciro’s Pomodoro A-5, Shota Rustaveli 12, MPalats Il Patio D-3, Ihorivs’ka 13/5, MPoshtova Ploscha, tel. Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 221 45 45, www.pomodoro.kiev. (+380) 44 501 74 64, www.il-patio.com.ua. Over the ua. Established in London in 1978 by hipster Ciro Orsini, the last few years Il Patio on Bessarabs’ka Sq. has been serving restaurant’s stylish mix of music, glitz and great Italian fare some of the finest pizza in town. The venue’s tasty Italian has translated into world wide success. The Kyiv restaurant fare can now be enjoyed down by the riverside at Il Patio is a much needed addition to the local scene in that it’s second branch. This dinning spot pays homage to Venice tastefully hip; hopefully Ciro’s will serve as an example to and even has a gondola in the main hall. The restaurant has all the pretentious wannabe joints that litter the capital. a delicious salad bar and specialises in ’Antipasta’ snacks An Italian chef is on hand to make sure all dishes ooze with as well as wonderful pizza and other Italian dishes. Also at: authenticity. Highlights include: fabulous penne, ravioli and A-5, Bessarabs’ka pl. 5A, tel. (+380) 44 246 43 27; G-3, fettuccini dishes; succulent seafood, such as the salmon filet Saksahans’koho 112A, tel. (+380) 44 594 20 87. QOpen in a porcini mushroom and wine sauce; and favourite pizzas 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PTALGSW of the stars. Lunch goers receive a 20% discount Monday - new Friday from 12:00 - 16:00, and night owls can choose from La Cantina B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 20, tel. (+380) 44 234 a special selection of soups, salads, pizza bread, etc. Live 70 74, www.la-catania.com.ua. A nice little cafe-restaurant music (jazz, blues, rock) echoes through the basement halls close to the Golden Gate. There is an English menu and nice nightly from 21:00 - 00:00, a DJ takes over from there and background music. It’s not so big, holds about 40. It has a spins untill dawn. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. PJAEG lovely design and reminds one of being in Italy. Their specialty is stone-grilled meats; steak, turkey, chicken, and scrimp. We really enjoyed the turkey breast steak with garlic and curry for 89Hr. An average meal runs about 350Hr-400hr. QOpen Mediterranean 11:00 - 24:00. C-3, Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka 20A (Peyzazhna Mille Miglia Restorante & Enoteca B-3, Yaroslaviv Monaco M Alley), MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 590 01 51, Val 22, Radisson SAS Hotel, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) www.monaco.com.ua. This restaurant adopts not only 44 492 22 55. Mille Miglia is the name of the open-road the name of the Mediterranean principality, but its style and vintage sports car race established in 1926 to run the 1000 atmosphere too. Six different halls at the restaurant can miles from Brescia to Rome. The restaurant is inspired by satisfy a wide variety of guests. The summer terrace on the elegance, as well as the progressive and relaxed atmosphere second floor opens up on the marvelous city view. The chef of the Mille Miglia race. Chef Salvatore D’Vivo presents an insight into the fantastic cuisine and of the regions Thierry Alix and his team work hard to please their custom- Q ers. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. €€€. PTALEGBS crossed by the Mille Miglia racers. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAULG Oliva D-3, Sahaidachnoho 25, MPoshtova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 463 75 92, www.oliva.com.ua. With its fresh Jewish and lively atmosphere, Olive has become a local favourite. To get a better idea of what to expect, imagine your favourite Cimes D-2, Sahaidachnoho/Ihorivs’ka 10/5, hometown coffee shop or café and twist in a Ukrainian flare. The MPoshtova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 428 75 79/ competitive prices really catch the eye on a menu that features (+380) 44 428 75 04, www.cimes.com.ua. The a splattering of Italian favourites such as cannelloni, ravioli, cuisine is Kosher, and the different dining rooms all have risotto and pizza. Reasonable prices for cocktails will have you their own character and appeal, while the Kosher wine list rubbing your eyes with disbelief. Make it a double. Expect a is a rare treat. Great staff and wonderful service. QOpen packed house on the weekend and it’s a bit smoky so you might 11:00 - 23:00. €€€. PTA6LVEGBS want to leave the kids at home with babushka. Also at G-3, Symona Petlury 5; Druzhby Narodiv bul. 25; Chervonoarmiys’ka King David A-5, Esplanadna 24, MPalats Sportu, 34. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. €. PAGXS tel. (+380) 44 235 74 36. It does not matter whether Osteria Pantagruel B-3, Lysenka 1, MZoloti Vorota, you choose your dishes from the Jewish kosher or Euro- tel. (+380) 44 278 81 42, www.pantagruel.com.ua. A pean kosher menu, you will be making a sound choice. time-proven Italian favourite, Osteria is widely recognised for Owned by the Central Synagogue, all profits from this its excellent home-made pasta and impressive wine cellar. place go to charity. You can enjoy your food in one of two First-timers are strongly advised to try the ‘tagliatelle alla Con- rooms: one boasts an enormous picture of Jerusalem at stantino’, named after Osteria’s chef-virtuoso Constantino Pas- night, the other is a take on a typical European street. salacqua. In the summer time you may also enjoy your meal on a Both are enchanting. Closed during Shabat. QOpen charming terrazzo in front of the historic Golden Gate. QOpen PA 11:00 - 23:00. €€. 11:00 - 23:00. Mon - Fri 8:00 - 11:00 breakfast €€. ALGB

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants 29

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 30 Restaurants

area. Total seating capacity 136. All seemed to speak English. Gastronomic The menu is delicious Italian cuisine, from a Swiss-Italian chef, and in English. Prices for a meal will cost between 300-1000+Hr. Barsuk I-4, Kutuzova prov. 3A, MPecherska, tel. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PTAUILEGBXSW (+380) 50 386 36 29, www.barsuk.kiev.ua. Barsuk new offers a tastefully presented, pallet pleasing range of VaBene A-4, Bohdana Khmel’nyts’kogo, MTeatral’na, European and local dishes. Freshness is this restaurant’s tel. (+380) 44 377 75 65, www.carteblanche.ua. This recipe to success and is on display in the carefully chosen Bistro belongs to the Carte Blanche network of unique selection of salads, the fresh pastas smothered with your restaurants united by common discount system. We went choice of signature sauce and steaming steaks and sea- in expecting a cool informal bistro and found a very formal, food. This place is loaded with extras including an Italian/ expensive restaurant where hardly anyone spoke English. We European deli and culinary classes available to the public had to make a bit of a fuss but finally found a friendly English every weekend from 11:00-14:00. For 350Hr per session, speaking waiter. The interior is a rich looking dark brown wood, learn the secrets of Barsuk’s master chefs, eat while you with bric-a- brack decoratively placed. The Chef is from Napoli, cook and take the leftovers home, fun for the whole family. so the Italian cuisine is the real thing. An average meal costs This restaurant can be a bit tricky to find, as it is located around 450Hr. There is a very wide choice of wines. The menu on Kutuzova provulok, a small perpendicular side street is in English and there is a breakfast menu from 10:00-12:00. off Kutuzova vul. From the Pechers’ka metro station, head There is seating for 75 in the main hall and 15 in the VIP room. towards the river and take the third street on the left. In summer, the terrace holds 20. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. €€. PAUVEGXSW GastroRock C-1, Vozdvyzhens’ka 10B, MKontrak- tova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 50 390 61 31, info@gastro- Japanese rock.kiev.ua, www.gastrorock.kiev.ua. A cool type of Campai H-3, Saksahans’koho 20A, ML’va Tolstoho, pub for the younger age set. There is much truly unique tel. (+380) 44 246 74 79/(+380) 44 289 14 09, www. here—Like beer in a tin with fish, or is it fish in a tin with campai.net. Popular among Kyiv’s jet set, Kampai never beer? You can buy your own cured leg of pork and leave it disappoints. While the itamae-san (sushi chef) prepares hanging for whenever you come in. For steak lovers there dishes individually for one guest, others may take advantage is a 2kg steak for only 599 Hr. There are special Sunday of the mini-theatre and watch DVDs or spy on the world via dinners where the staff trade places with the costumers. the available 500 satellite channels. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Breakfast is from 08:00-12:00 with a special for 49 Hr. €. PTALG There is a business lunch from 12:00-15:00 for 69Hr. An Gin-no-Taki B-4, Volodymyrs’ka 49A, MZoloti Vorota, average meal runs about 200-250Hr. The place holds tel. (+380) 44 569 56 40, www.ginnotaki.com.ua. At 80+ and there is live music along with special cocktails first glance, Gi-no-Taki looks like any other sushi place, but every Wednesday –Saturday. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. look closer and it’s easy to find features that really set this PAEGXSW establishment apart. For example, they offer European-style breakfast from 10:00-12:00. The sushi is familiar, but the grill is unique and stunning and the chef’s specials really tug Porta Pia G-2, Tarasa Shevchenka 36A, MUniversytet, at the pallet. Choose from Kobe steak and lamb chops, and tel. (+380) 44235 72 05, [email protected], the chef’s own seafood kabobs and spicy squid salad. Dinner www.PORTAPIA.KIEV.UA. For all lovers of real Italian food, specials are tasty and unbelievably affordable, i.e. the sushi this is it! An Italian Chef named Franco designed and runs assortment for two and a bottle Badagoni wine for 335Hr. this authentic Italian restaurant. There is a seldom seen QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PAGS “open kitchen”. The kitchen is actually in the dining room! All food is fresh, nothing frozen or preserved and tastes great! Murakami D-2, Sahaidachnoho 35, MDnipro, tel. There is an English menu and a complete meal will cost (+380) 44 425 01 90, www.murakami.com.ua/en. All around 200Hr and well worth it! QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, the usual suspects (nigiri, maki, sashimi, etc.) are represented Sat 11:00 - 01:00. in Murakami, and they also offer a touch of Thai and their own original dishes. We went on a Saturday and the place Prego Café A-5, T.Shevchenka bul’v. 2, ML’va Tolstoho, was packed. Don’t worry, the sushi will arrive fresh and tasty, tel. (+380) 44 235 00 86, www.prego.in.ua. We fell in love but your order will definitely start at the back of the queue. with the place from the get-go! It’s right in the centre and easy Karaoke gets started at 22:00. (One side note about karaoke to find. A warm and friendly hostess greeted us in English. There in Kyiv: Ukrainians take their singing very seriously. If you think is an outside terrace, a 1st floor non smoking section and an that the audience will get a kick out of your piss-take of Barry upstairs smoking section. There is seating for 170 plus a hall Manilow’s “Copacabana” think again – you’re likely to get available for 40. The menu is in English, and the cuisine is pretty booed). Delivery is also available. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, authentic Italian food. They have their own pasta machine and Sat, Sun 13:00 - 06:00. €€. PTALVGBW offer many unique specialties. We tried the delicious rabbit with sour cream sauce with special pasta for 108Hr. The average Planeta Sushi C-4, Khreschatyk 12, MMaidan bill is about 85Hr. As with most new restaurants these days Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 270 66 79, www.plan- there is a Sushi/Japanese menu. There is also home delivery etsushi.com.ua/en/. A great choice for a wide variety of available. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAVGBXSW Japanese dishes. You can try nigiri, poppies, mariavase and tataki sushi, sashimi, yakitori, salads, and traditional Japanese Stefanos Fine Food Factory C-3, Volodymyrska 4, hot dishes. Living up to the Japanese proverb ‘the guest is MPoshtova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 279 11 21/(+380) God’ expect personal service and attention to detail. Also at: 67 460 16 66, www.stefanofff.com. A beautifully designed H-4, Chervonoarmiys’ka 57/3, tel. (+380) 44 287 37 75; D-2, eating establishment. A well stocked wine shop/ delicatessen is Sahaidachnoho 41, tel. (+380) 44 594 20 85; C-3, Velyka at the 1st floor entrance. Above our heads we saw a glass bot- Zhytomyrs’ka 8/14, tel. (+380) 44 594 20 83. QOpen tom aquarium from the 2nd floor dining area. There is an oysret 11:00 - 02:00. €€. PTASW & champagne bar and several dining areas both smoking and non smoking areas, all uniquely and beautifully decorated. Also, San Tori D-2, Sahaidachnoho 41, MKontraktova Plos- there is a lovely roof-garden eating area and an outside terrace cha, tel. (+380) 44 462 49 94/(+380) 44 462 49 95.

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants 31

Tike D-2, Sahaidachnoho 31A, MPoshtova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 417 40 62, www.tike.com.ua. In a restaurant Help make Kyiv better! scene that has become a wasteland of mediocre establish- ments with cliché themes, Tike boldly rises above to offer an Leave your comments exceptional detour from the norm. Originally established in Istanbul, Tike has been wowing diners throughout Eurasia (good or bad) at and Europe for more than a decade. Scrumptious appetisers get the juices flowing in anticipation of delectable charcoal- kyiv.inyourpocket.com and grilled lamb and beef. Other mentionables include an inviting wine card, great desserts and banquet seating for up to 44. we’ll make sure business QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€€. PTAGXSW owners get them! Uzbek San Tori offers a unique fusion of Thai and Japanese cuisine Shangrila D-1, Yaroslavs’ka 5/2, MKontraktova in a setting that is an intriguingly comfortable mix of the two Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 417 73 16. According to legend, styles. The best thing on the menu are the lobsters: you can Shangrila is a perfectly happy land isolated from the outside pick your own from the tank and send it off to be cooked as world. Think about that the next time you’re stuck in one of you wish. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €€€. PAS Kyiv’s mind-boggling traffic jams. This restaurant goes above and beyond to provide a niche of tranquility. Savour Uzbek and Tampopo H-3, Saksahans’koho 55, MPloscha L’va Japanese cuisine, chill out with a hookah and enjoy live music Tolstoha, tel. (+380) 44 289 29 99, www.tampopo.com. and traditional eastern dancing. QOpen 11:00 - 05:00. ua. Tampopo is arguably the classiest Japanese restaurant PTALGBX in the city, and attracts politicians, pop stars, comedians and other local celebrities. A VIP room is available for up to eight. Uruk B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 11, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) The summer terrace is located around back in a secluded 44 235 14 29, www.uruk.com.ua. A unique and spacious courtyard. The original cuisine, prepared by an Asian master restaurant serving Uzbek and European dishes. All rooms are chef, is vibrant and aromatic. Smoked eel, black cod, oriental different styles and look like small museums. The national cos- pikeperch, veal ribs with kus kus in truffle oil and oriental tumes worn, the décor, and music help acquaint guests with the recipe lamb with shiitakes are but a few of the highlights. On history and culture of . In the “Uruk” You can feel the the sushi side of the menu, the flying fish caviar, a handsome atmosphere of comfort and Eastern hospitality. The menu is in selection of hand rolls and the colourful assortments are all English and very reasonably priced. An average meal runs from alluring. Mini-catering is available. They show art house films 70-150Hr. There is live music and dancing nightly (except Sun- here weekly, call for details. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun day) from 20:00. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PALGBXW 11:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTAULVGBSW Soviet Seafood Ikra Oyster Club H-3, Pan’kivska 11, ML’va Tolstoho, Comrade & Mauser E-2, Het’mana 6, Bil’shovyk tel. (+380) 44 288 19 90. Everything is in calm grey and Shopping Centre (near Skating Ring), MShuliavs’ka, black shades, but the huge Swarovski chandelier shining tel. (+380) 44 200 18 81, www.trc-bolshevik.com. This brightly over the presentation case stocked with fresh fish intriguing theme restaurant is located in what was a test dominates. A huge glass wall allows patrons to look out in range for weapons produced at the Bolshevik factory. The the streets while alternative views are provided by a large interior is a history lesson in and of itself: The bar is deco- kitchen window that shows the chefs at work. Ikra has rated with military boots and helmets, a menacing military around 20 kinds of oysters and fresh fish and serves all rifle seems to follow you about the room and the Stalin era manner of fish and sushi dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. posters are splashed with slogans such as “Life has become €€€€. PAGSW easier, it has become cheerful.” The kitchen boasts a skilled saucier whose mastery shines in signature dishes like “The Porto H-4, Chervonoarmiys’ka 72, MOlimpiys’ka, tel. Council of People’s Commissars” (veal with potato au gratin), (+380) 44 206 83 87. Porto, which can be found inside “Red Army Dream” (rabbit with fresh vegetables in a creamy the Olympiys’kyi trade complex is the latest in the worldwide sauce) and “Hello Baltic” (grilled trout on a bed of zucchini, chain of Porto restaurants. The venue specialises in dishes and peppers). After dinner, stay and play billiards in made from the finest fish and seafood, as well as cuisine the adjacent halls or explore the Bolshevik shopping centre. from Serbia and Montenegro, Croatia and Slovenia. Visitors QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €€. PALEGSW can select the fish themselves and then observe the entire preparation process. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PA Petrovich Club-Restaurant D-2, Yaroslavs’ka 5/2, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 425 79 07/425 79 08, www.club-petrovich.com.ua. This Turkish club/restaurant is a nostalgic place with a Soviet atmos- Marmaris B-1, Hlybochyts’ka 40, tel. (+380) 44 586 42 phere from the 1950’s through to the 1970’s. One of the 33, www.marmarisrestaurant.com.ua. Looking to satisfy founders of the restaurant is a famous cartoonist, so there your craving for spicy Turkish cuisine? Marmaris is fine choice are a lot of humorous details in the décor and even on the for filling up before painting the town red, business banquets menu, which offers meals from the ’s past. and families looking for a break from the ordinary (kids’ area is Don’t forget your pocket dictionary as the menu is not available). The , humus, meze, kebobs and fresh baked available in English. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. Business lunch pide are as authentic as you’ll find in Kyiv. Banquet items for for 25 Hr. Mon - Fri 12:00 - 16:00. After 16:00 admission five or more include enticing salmon, lamb and turkey dishes. only for club members. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. Business The staff is lively and professional. Also on offer is a bountiful lunch for 25 Hr. Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00. After 16:00 admission selection of traditional desserts and hookah. QOpen 10:00 only for club members. €€. PTALEGS - 02:00. PTA6LEG kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 32 NightlifeCAFés Nightlife

Cafés in Kyiv quite often offer much more than just a cup D.A.Semadeni H-3, Chervonoarmiys’ka 68, of perfect coffee with a pastry. Most of them have soups, MOlimpiis’ka, tel. (+380) 44 289 63 80. The Swiss salads, and sandwiches on their menus, so the border Semadeni sweet-shop was a favourite destination for visitors between restaurants and cafés is very thin. Look over the in Kyiv during the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th selection of cafés in our guide and pick the one that is just century. True, it had another address, but the present-day right for your mood or occasion. sweet-shop going by the same famous name is no disgrace. aroma espresso bar H-4, Dymytrova 5, MOlimpiiska, The interior breathes respectability. There are five sorts of tel. (+380) 44 202 66 33, fax (+380) 44 201 66 22, chocolate offered, various cakes, and sweets made on-site. www.aromacafe.com.ua. A nice friendly place to relax QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PTALGBXS and have light meals & breakfast. Mellow music is played; House of Coffee «Passage» B-4, I-2, Khreschatyk there is wifi, a moderately priced English menu. Aroma 15/4, MKhreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 279 12 09. From belongs to a world-wide chain of coffee shops with a good the sophisticated interior décor complete with Mucha wall reputation. We tried one of the house specialties, “Aroma hangings to the great people-watching tables on fashionable Salad” with Bulgarian cheese. Children are welcome. Also at Passage, this is a place both to see and where to be seen. Mechnykova 3, tel.: (+380) 44 461 97 28; Zhylyans’ka 75, tel.: As expected, a wide selection of coffees, teas and sweet de- (+380) 44 596 00 20, open 24hrs. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. lectables only adds to the occasion. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00, PTAVGBXSW Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. PTALGBS Babuin Bookshop-Coffeehouse G-3, Simona Petlury Nescafé C-3, H-2, Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka 8A, MMaidan 10, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 235 73 16/(+380) Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 490 34 86. The international 50 356 33 26, www.babuin.ua. This is not just a café- coffee brand has opened six cafés around town, filling a need restaurant, but a bookshop (Mostly Russian books), art for quality, reasonably-priced beverages. In addition to the gallery and a music venue. It has no relationship or similarity expected cappuccinos, espressos and iced coffees, coffee- to the Stoned-Baboon Café of former years. The cuisine is lovers can also partake of salads, sandwiches and sweets Russian-Ukrainian and reasonably priced. One whole room is amid the bright modern décor. Also at: Globus mall, 1st line; an art gallery, with pictures rotating monthly. The paintings Globus mall, 3rd line; Metrograd mall; Sahaidachnoho 31; we saw were very delightful to the eye. There is live music Luhova 9. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PABX Thursdays-Sundays. QOpen 09:30 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 02:00. PALEGBSW Repriza A-3, H-2, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 40/25, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 502 23 46, www.repriza.com. Coffee House B-4, Prorizna 3/5, MKhreschatyk, tel. One of the first patisseries in the city, it has a lovely Vien- (+380) 44 279 85 09. Albeit a cookie cutter coffee house nese room stuffed with enough sugary delights to entertain chain, the mood here is unexpectedly relaxing. This is due in the kids and give you all a cavity or two. Though specializing large part to the attentive service that is in no way intrusive; a in danishes, cakes and other gourmet sweets, those in need great venue to meet with colleagues or hang out with friends. The of more substantial food can partake of delicious soups and menu has a substantial offering of coffee, coffee cocktails, soups, salads. Also located at D-3, Sahaidachnoho 10/5; B-2, Ve- salads, light breakfasts and business lunches. Also at A-3, B. lyka Zhytomyrs’ka 38; A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 26. QOpen Khmel’nyts’koho 30/10, 00:00 - 24:00; D-2, Sahaidachnoho 08:00 - 22:00. PTAGBS 41, 00:00 - 24:00; B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 13/2, 08:00 - 23:00 and many others. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PJAGXSW Shokoladnitsa H-3, Chervonoarmiys’ka 48, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 287 00 88. Shokoladnitsa is C-4, B. Hrinchenka 2/1, MMaidan Coffee Time exceptional for two reasons: the service is likely the best of Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 21 56, www.cof- all the coffee house chains in Kyiv, and many are open 24hrs. fetime.com.ua. Considered the best coffee chain in Kyiv, There’s nothing pretentious, or rushed about this place, the prices are reasonable and (reminiscent of Starbucks in despite the fact that it originated in Moscow. Chill-out with a America) they seem to be on every corner. Known for their beverage, and nibble on a variety of familiar café delectables aromatic blend of Arabic (90%) and Robusta coffee (10%), they at locations around the city that offer a convenient detour from offer one of the best assortments of hot and cold beverages in the rat race. As with all “chains”, expect consistency and me- the city as well as dishes for all tastes and moods, from soups diocrity and you won’t be disappointed. Other mentionables to chocolate fondue. Also at: B-4, Volodymyrs’ka 42; A-5, include menu in English, continental breakfast until 11:00 and Chervonoarmiys’ka 17, open: 09:00 - 22:00; A-5, Esplanadna coffee to go. Also at Saksahans‘koho 53/80, Basseina 1/2. 34/2, open: 09:00 - 22:00. QOpen 24hrs. PTJAGW QOpen 24hrs. PAGBSW Coffeeum on Maidan C-4, Kostyol’na 4, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 04 90. The coffee- SkyArtCafé B-5, Сhervonoarmiyska-Baseyna 1-3/2, M house consists of two floors – the interior, accessible from L’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 561 78 41. This unique Kostyol’na Street, is modelled after an old coffee-brandy café is located on the 6th floor of the Pinchuk Art Centre. cigar house from the early part of the twentieth century. The The décor is pure white and of a special geometrical design entrance from Maidan carries you into a fascinating travelling with a lovely view of the city. It was so bright we had to wear in the safari of that period. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PB sunglasses. The all vegetarian menu is in English and contains soups, salads, and light meals. Prices are moderate to pricy. Double Coffee D-2, Kostiantynivs’ka 1/2, MKontrak- It is closed when the Art Center is closed for changing exhib- tova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 206 69 11, www.doublecof- its. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. PAGBXW fee.com.ua/eng. This charming café chain catches your eye from the start with its wonderfully illustrated menu. A wide Wolkonsky C-4, I-2, Khreschatyk 13, MKhreschatyk, variety of dishes from kashas and crêpes to sushi sets and tel. (+380) 44 201 03 96, www.wolkonsky.com. The salads with pumpkin seeds can satisfy any taste or mood. aroma of fresh baked bread will have you salivating from the The wide variety of tastes and smells in this coffee-bean second you set foot in this posh café/bakery. Although you atmosphere helps you to forget all about your hurried life on can’t expect to benefit from any government bread subsidies, the outside. The café is often crowded on the weekends, so you can count on friendly service, a soothing atmosphere and plan accordingly. Also at: L-2, Luhova 12; C-4, Mykhailivs’ka 6. an impressive selection of pastries, , sandwiches, QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PAGS chocolates and other goodies. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PTALBS

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com NightlifeCAFés Nightlife 33

Bars & Pubs Kyiv Nightlife Scene Baraban (Drum) B-4, Prorizna 4A, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 279 23 55. This cosy but hard-to-find hole-in-the- Kyiv is much more of a club city than a bar town. There wall is usually populated by politicos, journalists and expats is a bar and club scene at the heart of the city centre, holding forth on the subject of the day. The neighbourhood but don‘t be surprised if you encounter more of your own atmosphere goes well with the tasty and moderately-priced countrymen than Ukrainians in these establishments. Ukrainian food, and the jazz music adds another pleasant It can be difficult to find an empty table on weekends, dimension. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. AE especially when many popular expatriate hangouts offer drink specials at peak hours. On weekends and holidays, Bar on 8 C-3, A.Tarasovoyi 5, Hyatt Regency Kyiv, the main street of Khreschatyk is closed to automobile MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 581 12 34, www. traffic, making it Kyiv‘s most active scene for nightlife, kyiv.regency.hyatt.com. With its vantage point on the 8th floor people-watching, or a casual stroll. For something a little of the first international five-star hotel in Kyiv, situated in the more active and exciting, jazz and techno dance clubs are middle of Sofiivs’ka Square and overlooking the magnificent St. just as busy now as any time of the year. Sophia Cathedral and St. Michael’s Golden-Domed Cathedral, If you are familiar with the club scene in other parts of Europe, Bar on 8 offers the breathtaking panoramic views in the city. you will feel at home with the loud atmosphere, overpriced Being an all-day lounge, Bar on 8 also serves light dishes such drinks, and relatively high entrance fees of Kyiv’s nightclubs. as salads, sandwiches, steaks and desserts. During warmer A few differences you might note are the availability of months, guests enjoy alfresco dining with variations of meat and hookah (Middle Eastern flavoured tobacco), professional seafood grilled to perfection on the Australian grill and original dance or model shows, and it is socially acceptable for tandoor oven. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PTAULGS men to dance with each other. Guys, be wary of the young, Blind Age sport music pub C-3, Mala Zhytomyrs’ka attractive women some clubs hire to entice foreign men to 15, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 15 11, spend money on champagne, overpriced dinners and drinks. blindage.kiev.ua. This off-the-beaten-path pub/restaurant is ideal for meeting up and throwing back a couple beers – beer in Kyiv. The menu has special beer appetisers. There Podil, Stella Artois, Guinness, Hoegaarden, and Leffe on tap. are darts, a billiard room, big screen TVs for sports fans, The menu offers local cuisine (the grill items come highly and live music every Friday and Saturday. Golden Gate offers recommended) to go with pizzas, pastas, burgers and beer business lunch on weekdays and breakfast at the weekend. snacks. The massive signature sausage and wing platter is QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PTJAULVEGBXS worth checking out, but will require help from a few friends to new get it all down. The early 20th century theme is appeasing, Good Wine Bar I-3, Mechnikova 9 (GoodWine store, and live music is featured Friday and Saturday – check the 2nd floor), MKlovs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 499 09 85, www. website before you go, as there are gaps in the schedule. gusovsky.com.ua. This modern designed bar is located Q P6VEGSW Open 11:00 - 02:00. inside a huge wine shop on the 2nd floor overlooking the shop Bochka (Keg) B-4, B.Khmelnyts’koho 3B-1, floor. This is a relaxing place to have a glass or two of wine. MTeatral’na, tel. (+380) 44 390 61 06. Bochka is a no There are usually eight bottles of white and eight bottles of nonsense pub perfectly located for starting or wrapping up red on offer. Almost every day one of the bottles is getting your bar-hopping adventure. Top local rock, pop and hip-hop replaced by another so in several weeks the whole menu is acts perform Tuesday-Sunday. Admission fee varies on the fully renewed. If you don’t find a wine you prefer, just buy the notoriety of the band, but is more or less reasonable. For a bottle of your choice in the first floor shop and for the nominal taste of Kyiv that’s sure to make its way into the memory corkage fee it will be served in the bar. Everything to go with bank, try Bochka’s house brew available in dark, light and wine is in the show-case. You don’t have to read a menu live. The interior is massive by local standards, so even on since there’s no menu at all. Take some salami, prosciutto, packed nights it’s possible to find some elbow room. Local bresaola, coppa, cheese, bread or sandwiches (grilled upon and Euro cuisine is on hand. The price on menu items is a request). It’s a limited, affordable menu as the emphasis is touch steep for a pub, but the breakfast and lunch specials on it being a wine bar no sushi, nor hookahs here. There are are value and flavour packed. QOpen 24hrs. PAEGX also around 50 labels of whisky though, with more to come. QOpen 17.00 - 23.00, Sat, Sun 12.00 - 23.00. PALG Dorothy’s Pub H-3, Saksahans’koho 16/43, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 287 05 30. The sign out front read Indigo A-5, Esplanadna 34/2, MPalats Sportu, tel. “Dorothy’s Pub”. (Cue The Twilight Zone theme song.) Have I (+380) 44 289 62 16. Enjoy sports broadcasts on big been transported back to my native state of Utah? The scenes screens in two halls throughout the day. Stimulate (or douse, of Monument Valley and Arches National Park, the Osmonds whichever) your passion with beer from the tap, which is glaring at me from the menu with their cheesy Colgate smiles featured in a huge variety. Not exactly a sports fan? Then and the sweet smell of Western American style barbecue come listen to live music shows at night, Wednesday through creeping out from under the saloon doors are all eerily familiar. Friday. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAE Or am I in Kyiv? No. It couldn’t be. The service here is far too M good for Kyiv. Where am I? And who the hell is Dorothy? As it Lucky Pub A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 13, L’va Tolstoho, turns out, I am in Kyiv, and Rod Serling is not sitting next to me tel. (+380) 44 499 13 13, www.karta.ua. Lucky hasn’t munching on ribs, nor is he sipping on a Czech beer, nor is he been open for long, but it’s already proven a big hit with travel- sampling the Turkish style calamari, but if he were still alive I’m lers, expats and locals alike. This is arguably the finest sports sure he would not object to such a wonderful mishmash of sites, viewing venue in the city. We went on the night of a critical sounds and flavours. And who is Dorothy? No one seemed to World Cup qualifying match and the place was booked solid. know. (Cue more Twilight Zone theme song.) Great specials! Eleven LCDs are strategically placed throughout the pub, 12 QOpen 11:00 - 05:00. PAIEGS types of beer are on tap and the fare is familiar, delicious and reasonably priced. We joined a group of rowdy Brits in the Golden Gate Irish Pub B-3, Zolotovorits’ka 15, football room and had a splendid time. Live music goes from MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 235 51 88, www.karta. 21:00 - 01:00 Thursday - Saturday. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. ua. This is a true Irish Pub with the largest selection of draught PJALEGKX kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 34 Nightlife

Naturlih Pub B-4, B.Khmelnyts’koho 3, MTeatral’na, tel. (+380) 44 279 79 29, www.naturlih.com.ua. The Clubs most striking feature of Naturlih is it amazing selection of Arena Entertainment B-5, Basseina 2A, ML’va Tolstoho, draft beer - one of the grandest we’ve come across in Kyiv. tel. (+380) 44 492 00 00, www.arena-kiev.com/eng. This Have the barman pull you a top German, Dutch, Czech, English, venue was the official hangout for Eurovision 2005 participants. It Belgian, Irish or local brewski, then sit back and watch the is an entertainment complex accommodating several bars and a bustling hordes hike up historic B. Khmel’nts’koho street night club under one roof. In any case, you may wind up your night from the cosy view inside. The pub/restaurant offers scrump- out in the night club partying untill dawn. Q Open: restaurant tious menu items to go with the suds including German style and Beer House 09:00 - 04:00, Sport-Bar 12:00 - 04:00, night sausages, pasta, pizza and classy euro dinner items. The club Tue - Sun 22:00 - 06:00. PALEBK spacious halls and laid-back atmosphere are conducive for conversations. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. Art Club 44 B-4, Khreschatyk 44B, MKhreschatyk, tel. PAGXW (+380) 44 279 41 37, www.club44.com.ua. This grungy underground niche located through an arch just off Khreschtyk O’Brien’s C-3, Mykhailivs’ka 17A, MMaidan Nezalezh- Street has been a haven for jazz, punk and alternative music nosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 15 84, www.obriens.kiev. enthusiasts for years now. The club regularly features renowned ua/eng. Kyiv’s first Irish pub is still a favourite with expats bands from the US and UK. Crowds tend to be a bit intense Friday and upwardly mobile Ukrainians. O’Brien’s bars serve up and Saturday, but mellow out Sunday for jazz. Cover charges vary plenty of beer great with none-too-shabby pub food like depending on the act. The club also hosts photo exhibitions and shepherd’s pie, and their Irish breakfast is enough to hold showings of art-house films nightly at 19:00. The music blares you until dinner. Upstairs you’ll find darts, billiards and the from 21:00 until 23:30. The full bar, decent selection of munchies, city’s best atmosphere for watching sports on the big screen. and hip staff round out 44’s attractions. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00, QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. PALE Sat, Sun 15:00 - 04:00. Starting from 20:00 on Thu 30Hr, on Fri and Sat 50Hr. Sun - Wed free entrance. PAEW Porter Pub C-4, Kostelna 4, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 04 90, www.porter.com.ua. A hole in Azhur A-4, Leontovycha 3, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) the rock overlooking Maidan Nezalezhnosti, Porter Pub is an 44 234 74 94, fax (+380) 44 278 50 05, www.avalon. alluring venue for hungry, music-loving travellers. The cosy yet ua. This stereo disco club is a real diamond of Kyiv night life. edgy ambiance, reasonable prices, and live rock and alterna- The best music from the 60’s, 70’s, and 80’s provides a tive make for a winning combination. Signature dishes include bright and dazzling atmosphere. The Beetles, Elvis Presley, a bean and chicken salad, bacon/egg/sausage breakfast and Marilyn Monroe, Lisa Minnelli, the Rolling Stones, and the chicken stuffed crapes. The pub’s own homebrew is worth Doors songs guarantee an unforgettable night in this club. wrapping your lips around. Getting good service here is a bit QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. PALEXS like flipping a coin: It’s been 50/50 in our experience, but we Byblos B-1, Artema 20, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) keep coming back, as there’s just something magnetic about 44 288 18 88, www.byblos.kiev.ua. This is a very large, this joint’s energy. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PGB modern, and beautifully decorated club-restaurant. The staff was warm and friendly and English speaking. It is a restaurant Rosie O’Grady’s C-3, Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka 8/14, in the day time and a disco begins at 23:00. There is no dance MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 234 47 34, floor, but people catch the beat and dance by their tables. The www.rosieogradys.kiev.ua. Located at the halfway point menu is European cuisine partly in English. Prices are moderate between Sofiis’ka pl. and the top of Andriivs’kyi uzviz, Ro- to pricy with a large selection of well priced cocktails. Private sie’s is a fresh addition to Kyiv’s expanding selection of Irish banquets are often held and there are 2 VIP rooms for up to 15 pubs. The cosy basement setting is ideal for tipping back a people. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00. PALEGBKXSW pint of Irish stout or English ale and watching live big-match football. Specialties include Aunt Rosie’s steak, pork chops Carribean Club G-2, Symona Petliury 4, MUniver- and Sheridan’s veal, all of which are served on a bed of de- sytet, tel. (+380) 44 288 12 90, www.caribbean. lectable forest mushrooms. Popular for its reasonably priced com.ua/eng. Want to test your salsa skills? Carribean business lunches that feature a mix of local and European Club proudly presents the live rhythms of the Latino group dishes. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. PAGB “disLOKAdos”. For you novices, the dance school is one of the first and most popular salsa schools in Kyiv. The cost Sunduk C-3, Mykhailivs’ka 16, MMaidan Nezalezh- of one lesson is 50Hr. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. Admission nosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 14 65. The main features of 50-120Hr for men, 20-80Hr for women. PAILEG this classic pub are the pleasant wooden interior and bill transactions made via a treasure chest. In spite of a no- Cocaine I-1, Sahaidachnoho 8, MPoshtova ploscha, tel. ticeable attempt to copy Western styles in the interior, the (+380) 425 92 04, www.cocaine-club.com.ua. This is a music is very Eastern. The dishes and drinks listed on the new “beer place’ where the former Hi-Fi use to be. Many top menu are not necessarily present in the kitchen. Neverthe- brands of foreign beer are served. The décor is unique and the less, if you plan to arrive after 18:00, it would be better to specialty is Russian Karaoke.The European/Sushi menu is de- reserve a table beforehand and prepare for being consumed cently priced but not in English.The staff was friendly to us and by cigarette smoke even in the room for non-smokers. their English was ok. There is theme nights and a 20% discount QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAE form the menu from 02:00-06:00. We never figured out why it’s called Cocaine. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PAGXW Viola’s Bierstube A-5, T.Shevchenka bul’v. 1A, MKhreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 235 37 51. This cosy Crystal Hall J-3, Dniprovs’kyi uzviz 1, MArsenalna, basement beer bar is a popular hangout for both foreigners tel. (+380) 67 442 92 67/(+380) 44 288 50 69, www. and the young English-speaking Ukrainians. It offers a wide crystalhall.com.ua. Located in a converted ice rink on the range of beer and other alcoholic drinks as well as a selection edge of a hill overlooking the Dnipro River, Crystal Hall is one of tasty bar snacks. The first Wednesday of every month is of the largest and hippest clubs in the capital. Although the ‘Women’s Club’ night here, with fun and games for girls only. capacity is 2000, there’s no guarantee that you’ll get in QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. PA as face control is enforced and the place gets busy for big events. The dance floor and bar are huge, and the VIP room

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Nightlife 35 has a separate entrance and private bar. Laser and video shows ricochet off the domed ceiling as some of the regions top DJs and bands perform. The outdoor seating is relaxing and the menu offers a sufficient array of cold appetisers, hot dishes (omelettes, sea bass with grilled veggies, salmon, pork ribs, etc.) and the mandatory for Kyiv clubs: sushi. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. €€€. PTAIGBXSW Docker’s ABC B-4, Khreschatyk 15/4A, MKhres- chatyk, tel. (+380) 44 278 17 17, en.docker.com.ua. Docker’s is a café and bar during the day and a night club in the evenings. This Rock n’ Roll joint is a lively raucous affair where bands play to an enthusiastic crowd determined to dance and flirt until sunrise. The menu, in both English and German languages, is of European and Ukrainian cuisine. Live music with a dock style interior. All manner of cocktails are available at reasonable prices, and the service is warm and friendly.QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PTJAE. D*Lux Entertainment C-4, M. Hrushevs’koho 3, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 200 90 91, www.dlux.com.ua. Established 1939. A Spacious, huge complex with a 2 story disco, lounge bars with live music, 2 terrace-restaurants, and a gift shop. Well known DJ’s perform with PJ’s (go-go dancers). The staff was friendly and English speaking. The menu is in English, not so large and not so cheap. Entrance (for parties only) is 200Hr for men and 100Hr for women. A strict dress code; smart, casual, is strictly enforced. Disco is from 00:00-06:00. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PTALEGBXSW Route 66 G-3, Zhylians’ka 87/30, MVokzal’na, tel. (+380) 44 239 38 65, www.route66.com.ua. Finally! A place that offers great service at the bar. The atmosphere is lively and the ribs and wings are tasty and “American”. The beer, thank God, is not American; it’s imported from countries that know how to brew, i.e. the Czech Republic. The summer terrace is popular with locals, but the real draw is the live Rock ‘n’ Roll that starts up nightly at 21:00. QOpen 24hrs. PAK Sorry Babushka G-2, Dmytrivs’ka 18/24, MUniver- sytet, tel. (+380) 44 486 03 00, www.sorrybabushka. com.ua. Out with the old and in with the new! This club has elbowed into the space formerly occupied by the once popular Sound Planet. Very few changes have actually been made to the new club’s interior, but with a completely overhauled concept, Babushka has become an immediate hit among the capital’s clubbers. On the first floor you’ll find karaoke, the second floor spins 80’s and 90’s and disco until your platforms cave in on the third floor. There’s a karaoke tournament every Wednes- day - the winner receives a DVD player. Other special offers can be found throughout the week at Babushka’s Vnuchata (grandchildren’s) Party. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. PA Sullivan Room B-4, Prorizna 8, MKhreschatyk, tel. (+380) 66 485 55 55, www.sullivanroom.kiev.ua. This club is an affiliate of the New York Club and is ranked in the top 100 in the world. It offers concerts top groups playing a wide variety of music; as well as theatrical performances, and fashion shows every weekend evening. Then the disco begins and lasts all night. It is a beautifully decorated 2 storied club with capacity for up to 500. Concert prices begin at 40Hr. and the disco prices range from free to 50Hr. QOpen 19:00 - 06:00. PAEXW Xlib Club D-1, Frunze 12, MKontraktova Ploscha. The name of this new club Xlib (meaning bread) is an expression of the essence of the place: simplicity. It is hidden on a small street in Podil, and the interior has yet to be refurbished. Basically the place is two rooms: a dance floor, and a chill out room. Crowds throng to enjoy the DJs’ stylish and con- temporary sounds. The fact that it lacks a bit in décor and extravagance is - if anything - a bonus. QOpen Thu, Sun 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. PA kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 36 What to see

Kyiv’s sightseeing to-do list is topped by its famous gold- domed churches and cathedrals, magnificent sanctuaries of worship that impress with their history and art. Since everybody needs souvenirs to take home, God kindly GUARANTEED DAILY TOURS IN ENGLISH created Andriivs’kyi uzviz. Next are the city’s museums, historical monuments, and finally a wonderful open-air Monday - Saturday (10.30) BUS CITY TOUR 2 hrs museum on the edge of the city limits. Monday - Friday (19.00) EVENING BUS CITY TOUR 2 hrs Sunday (10.30) Museum of Folk Architecture City tours and Life (Pirogovo) 3,5 hrs Previous booking is required traveltraveltravel companycompanycompany +38 (044) 332-14-86; +38 (063) 166-27-87 Prime Excursion Bureau D-1, Schekavyts’ka 30/39, riadna www.ariadnat.com suite 4, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 227 77 78/(+380) 44 207 12 55/(+380) 99 550 00 00, [email protected], www.primetour.ua. Prime Excursion Bureau provides all kind of travel arrangements. (City tours, sightseeing in Kyiv and week-end outings. More than 25 Essential Kyiv guided excursions. Bureau specialising in country cultural Andrew‘s Descent (Andriivs‘kyi uzviz) C-2, MKontrak- and nature excursions. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Sat, Sun tova Ploscha. This is without a doubt one of Kyiv‘s oldest and 10:00 - 18:00. most beloved streets. In ancient times it linked the administrative part of the upper town with Podil, the lower town of merchants Albatros Travel D-1, Gor’koho 25V, ML’va Tolstoho, and artisans. This steep and winding cobblestone lined descent tel. (+380) 44 495 56 70, [email protected], is a traditional venue for outdoor festivals and fairs, and is dotted www.ariadnat.com. AriadnaT provides a range of daily city with numerous intriguing art galleries, museums, cafés, bars and tours in English: city bus tours, night bus tours, walking tours restaurants. Being at the very heart of the city‘s art community, around Kyiv and to Pyrohovo Folk Architecture Museum. the street is a favourite stop for tourists in search of paintings QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. and traditional Ukrainian crafts. This is also a well-known reposi- AriadnaT D-1, Yaroslaviv Val 22, MZoloti Vorota, tel. tory for all souvenirs tacky and/or Soviet. Artisans come out in (+380) 44 332 14 86/(+380) 63 166 27 87, info@ full force on weekends and big holidays. The intriguing building albatros.travel, www.albatros.travel. AriadnaT provides at N°15 is referred to by Kyivites as “Richard‘s Castle.” Unfor- a range of daily city tours in English: city bus tours, night tunately, the Descent is currently under reconstruction, but no bus tours, walking tours around Kyiv and to Pyrohovo Folk worries...a hidden gem is around back. Head down the street, Architecture Museum. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. and to the right you‘ll find a steep, twisting flight of iron steps. Those with calf muscles tough enough to conquer the climb are Free Tours B-4, Khreschatyk 19A, MKhreschatyk, rewarded with a commanding vantage point above Podil and tel. (+380) 44 278 80 04/(+380) 67 220 66 22, the Dnipro. The Bulgakov Museum is a must visit for literary [email protected], www.freetours.kiev.ua. Free enthusiasts, and is located at N°13. At the bottom of the hill, walking tours around the city centre start every day at turn left to Kontraktova ploscha or right to reach Sahaidachnoho 12:00 and 16:00. Meeting point is near the Central Post vul., an oasis for connoisseurs and coffee lovers. Office on Maidan Nezalezhnosti. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Dynamo Stadium C-4/5, I-2, M.Hrushevskoho 3, Mysterious Kyiv B-4, Khreschatyk 19A (Tourist Info MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 02 09. After Centre), MKhreschatyk tel. (+380) 44 491 11 76, passing through the white columns you’ll come to a monument [email protected], www.interesniy.kiev.ua. honouring the life of Valeriy Lobanovs’kyi, Dynamo’s famous Mysterious Kyiv provides exclusive tours to Secret Kyiv coach who died in May 2002. Lobanovs’kyi won countless places, Kyiv Caves, Secret Stallin tunnels under Dnipro Soviet leagues and cups first as a player and then as coach, river, tours to Chernobyl Zone, Segway tours. Excursions not to his mention his team’s two European Cup-Winners Cup in your language. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. triumphs and a string of Ukrainian titles. It’s ironic that he can New Logic A-4, B. Khmel’nyts’koho 17/52 (Leonar- now only be seen sitting still on a bench, because his habit do Business Centre), office 523, MTeatral’na, tel./ was always to rock back and forth between games. An even fax (+380) 44 206 22 00/206 33 22, www.newlogic. more poignant memorial is located closer to the stadium and ua. More than 20 different excursions in English, French, to the left: depicted in stern granite are the four Dynamo play- German, Italian, Spanish, Greek, Polish, Czech, Chinese, ers who were killed by occupying Nazis during WWII. Contrary Japanese, Hungarian and Hebrew. Tours to Chernobyl Zone. to Soviet myth and many published materials, these players QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. were not shot in their uniforms immediately after defeating a German side in a so-called ‘Death Match’. However, their team Open Kiev J-3, Lavrs’ka 16, MArsenalna, tel. Start (consisting of players from Dynamo and other Soviet (+380) 44 227 28 63, www.openkiev.com.ua. Open clubs) did defeat a team of German soldiers called Flakelf in Kiev provides Hop-on Hop-off daily sightseeing bus August 1942 - in fact they did it twice in 72 hours by scores of tours on open top double decker with fantastic views of 5-1 and 5-3. Only weeks later were N.Korotkykh, N.Trusevich, Kyiv. The first circle of the tour starts at 11:00 from the A.Klimenko and I.Kuzmenko arrested. Korotkykh, a NKVD (the entrance to Kyievo-Pechers’ka Lavra (Lavrs’ka 16). You precursor to the KGB) agent, was tortured and soon died, can catch a bus on one of 17 stops around Kyiv, then while the other three were executed in Febraury 1943 at the take off at any of them, have a stroll down Khreschatyk death camp. Regardless, the less-romanticized real- or any other and catch the bus again. Commentaries ity shouldn’t take away from the players’ heroism, embodied available in English and Russian. QTicket 150Hr, kids when they ignored orders and refused to give a Nazi salute 100Hr, under 7 for free. prior to their last game. QTours to Dynamo Stadium are available. Contact Tourist Info Centre at Khreschatyk 19A.

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com What to see 37

Golden Gate (Zoloti Vorota) B-3, Zolotovorits‘ka 8, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 234 70 68/(+380) 44 278 69 19. Zoloti Vorota, one of the most unique architec- tural/archaeological sites in Kyiv, reopened in 2007 after a lengthy reconstruction. The remains of ancient Kyiv‘s main gate were originally constructed during the height of the Kyivan Rus, and are included on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Painstakingly planned by historians and architects, the bright new construction that entombs the ancient walls is considered an exact replica of the original gate. From the platforms, the views of Volodymys‘ka vul. and surrounding area are stunning enough to justify the price of admission. House With Chimeras (Dim z khymeramy) C-5, Bankova 10, MKhreschatyk. Built more than a century ago by eccentric Kyivite Wladislaw Horodecki, this is the most unique structure in Kyiv. Sophisticated architectural forms are buried beneath the phantasmal figures of Horodecki‘s dreams. The elephant trunk storm drains, rhinos, antelope, gigantic frogs, mermaids and other figures are constructed of cement, a state-of-the-art material back in the 19th century. A local ce- ment factory owner provided Horodecki with a complimentary supply knowing that the interest generated by such an unusual home would pay-off. Ahead of its time, the design makes full use of the uneven Kyiv landscape: Three stories rise on one side and six descend the hill on the other. The interior design was also considered radically modern, and included an ice room for food storage, a wine cellar, a laundry room, a garage for horse drawn carriages and even a special room for Horodecki‘s cow. This insured fresh milk for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Shrouded in mystery and legend, this place continues to intrigue visitors. Independence Square (Maidan Nezalezhnosti) C-4, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti. Kyiv‘s central square has undergone major changes in recent years, both above and below ground. The square is locally referred to as “The Big Greenhouse.” That‘s not a botanical compliment but rather an indictment of the Globus Shopping Centre‘s glassy domes. Throughout Soviet times, October Revolution Square, as it was known, featured a daunting Lenin statue. Despite the seemingly constant modifications, Maidan has been the city‘s epicentre for generations. In 2004, it gained world notoriety for staging the events of the Orange Revolution. Images of the square circulated the globe for weeks as Ukrainians from all walks of life changed/delayed the course of Ukrainian history. As you walk on Maidan, imagine the entire square and surrounding streets filled by a determined yet jubilant orange mob. Khreschatyk B/C-4, MKhreschatyk. From its start at European Square to its terminus at Bessarabs‘ka Square, Kyiv‘s most beloved street is not even two kilometres long. Despite what has been called the most impressive unbroken string of Stalinist architecture anywhere, Khreschatyk‘s wide chestnut lined sidewalks are ideal for a relaxing stroll. The trees provide both welcome shade from the blistering summer sun and shelter from the region‘s signature spring downpours. On weekends and holidays, the street becomes a pedestrian only thoroughfare where locals, travellers and street performers mingle and frolic. It‘s hard to imagine that this was once a deep valley surrounded by dense forest. The valley was named Khreschata (crossed) in reference to the many ravines that converged in the area. In ancient times, Kyivan Rus princes hunted wild game here (the only hunting done on Khreschatyk these days is for souvenirs, fashion and fashionable Ukrainian women). Some of the city‘s best shopping can be found both above and below ground. Trendy malls have been dug beneath Bessarabs‘ka and Maidan Nezalezhnosti. As for above ground shopping, TsUM (Central Department Store) has become rather modern and has little to show of its Soviet past. Perhaps in an act of poetic justice the whole street will collapse under this retail strain and revert back to a lush valley. kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 38 What to see

St. Andrew‘s Church (Andriivs‘ka Tserkva) C-2, St. Sophia‘s Cathedral (Sofiivs‘kyi Sobor) B-3, Andriivs‘kyi uzviz 23, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) Volodymyrs‘ka 24, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 279 44 278 58 61. The church is temporary closed for renavation 22 56. Kyiv‘s oldest standing church, St. Sophia‘s was built but it really worth to be seen. Famous Italian architect Bartolomeo in 1037 by Prince Yaroslav the Wise, who incidentally was laid Rastrelli was the mastermind behind this attractive Baroque to rest inside. He commissioned the project to commemorate church that greets the throngs at the top of Andriivs‘kyi uzviz. the site of a victory of Kyivan Rus over the Pechenegs (Asian Built in 1754, it‘s one of the rare buildings in Kyiv that has man- nomadic tribes) and to glorify . It was named after aged to avoid serious damage or reconstruction. The elegant the famous St. Sophia‘s Cathedral in Constantinople. This silhouette of its one large dome and five lesser cupolas are majestic 13-cupola sanctuary adjoined Yaroslav‘s Palace and easily visible from Podil and beyond. Apostle Andrew, who was became a holy place of worship for Kyivites as well as a political the first Christian to preach the gospel in Kyivan Rus, was said and cultural centre. With an interior of rich frescoes and mosa- to have erected a cross on this very site. It was the wish of Peter ics, many of which are still intact almost a millennium later, the the Great‘s religiously-minded daughter, Elizabeth, after her visit cathedral made a huge impression on the ordinary worshippers to Kyiv in 1744 that this church be built. It must be said that com- of Kyiv. Meetings with foreign diplomats and treaty negotiations pared to the beautiful exterior, the interior is rather disappointing were held here, and the church housed the first library and - too much loud red and gold colours and really not much to see. school in Kyivan Rus. The azure and white bell tower is 76m Console yourself with a stroll around the church‘s perimeter, high and was finished in 1752. The cathedral‘s upper Ukrainian a walk which the famous Ukrainian writer Gogol also enjoyed. Baroque section and gilded cupola were added in 1852. Today St. Michael‘s Golden-Domed Cathedral the entire complex is protected by Ukraine, and also receives (Mykhailivs‘kyi Zolotoverkhyi Sobor) C-3, Mykhailivs‘ka support from UNESCO. The 18th century refectory works as a ploscha, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 22 museum and contains archaeological artefacts and architec- 48. The original, built by Prince Sviatopolk in 1108, was destroyed tural displays, such as models depicting Kyiv as it looked before by the Soviet regime in the 1930s for having “no historical value.” being razed by Mongol invaders in 1240. It costs a meagre 3Hr The reconstructed cathedral was completed in May 2000. Its sky to enter the grounds. To enter the Cathedral itself, purchase blue exterior and glittering golden domes add a stunning layer to a tickets from the kiosk at the bell tower entrance. As you exit cityscape that has become a mix-mash of crumbling ancient and don‘t forget to pose for the postcard-perfect picture with Cos- newly reconstructed. A sobering reminder of Stalin‘s inhumane sack leader Bohdan Khmelnyts‘kyi on his horse against the policies stands to the right as you exit the church grounds. This backdrop of St. Michael‘s Golden-Domed Cathedral. Guided is a monument to the victims of Holodomor (starvation): A fam- tours in English are available. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Wed ine orchestrated in part by the Soviet leadership in an attempt 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 40Hr for all exhibits for adults, 17Hr to squash the peasantry, as many as 10 million Ukrainians for children and students. Entrance to the Bell Tower costs perished from 1932-33. Keeping watch over the square are the 8Hr/5Hr. Entrance to the Catherdral’s area costs 3Hr. reconstructed statues of Princess Olga, Apostle Andrew, St. Cyrill St. Volodymyr‘s Cathedral (Volodymyrs‘kyi Sobor) and St. Mephodius. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Services held daily A-4, T.Shevchenka bul‘v. 20, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) at 08:00 and 17:00, and on Sundays at 08:00, 10:00, 17:00. 44 235 53 85. The Cathedral was built from 1862-1882 in a so called Russian pseudo-Byzantine style. The frescos inside were made by famous Russian, Ukrainian and Polish artists, such as Vasnetsov, Nesterov, Vrubel, Pymonenko and Svedomsky. The church belongs to the Ukrainian Orthodox denomination. QOpen 06:00 - 19:30. Services are held daily at 08:00 and 17:00. Sat, Sun at 7:00, 10:00 and 17:00. Free admission. Synagogue A-5, Shota Rustaveli 13, MPalats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 235 00 69. The Central Synagogue was built in 1898 by eminent Kyiv philanthropist Lazar Brodsky. This striking architectural monument served as a Jewish religious centre for nearly thirty years until it was seized by the Soviet Union in 1926. For a short time it hosted a handicraft club, after which it was turned into a doll theatre. During the Nazi occupa- tion, Germans used the synagogue as a stable for Wermacht horses. The building was returned to the Jewish community after the fall of the Soviet Union. Despite the serious damage that resulted from 70 years of neglect, the hall was immediately opened to parishioners. Today a number of Jewish educational, religious and cultural programmes are held here. The Museum of Jewish Heritage is also housed within, and displays ancient books, candelabras, Menorahs and bas-reliefs. The National Bank of Ukraine (Natsional‘nyi Bank Ukrainy) C-5, Instytuts‘ka 9, MKhreschatyk. The build- ing of the Ukrainian National Bank is over 100 years old. It was built in early Renaissance style and has survived revolution and two world wars. The griffons; emblems of Kyiv, Podillia, and Volyn regions; symbols of trade, transportation, industry, and agriculture on the outside of the building have remained intact and have not been changed since construction. While renovation and restoration has preserved much of he building‘s features, however, some have alas been lost. During the last period of renovation the aroma of roses - which emanated from the garden in the interior courtyard and was delivered to the St. Sophia Cathedral rest of the building via a special ventilation system - was lost. Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com What to see 39

Lavra Lavra Museums & Exhibitions Museum of Historical Valuables J-3, Ivana Mazepy 21 (Lavra), MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 280 13 96. The Louvre, the Hermitage, or the Prado would be happy to have such a collection of Scythian gold. The gem of the collection is the Scythian queen’s neck adornment from the 4th century B.C. The 1.4-kilogram pectoral was made of pure gold by a master craftman of the time. Despite its very old age the well-preserved detailing is amazing. The second most important valuable is the silver bowl unearthed from the Gaiman Barrow and kept in a specially designed chamber filled with inert gas. This is far from all one can see in the nine halls of this museum. The treasures of Kyivan Rus, West-European and Jewish ceremonial silverware, and works by the best Ukrainian jewellers of the past and present can all be found here. QOpen 10:00 - 17:45. Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra J-3/4, Ivana Mazepy 21, Closed Mon. Admission 12Hr, students and children 6Hr. MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 280 30 71, www.kplavra. State Museum of Theatre, Music and Cinema Arts kiev.ua. The monastery which made Kyiv the “Rome” of of Ukraine J-3, Ivana Mazepy 21 (Lavra), MArsenal’na, Orthodox Christianity and received pilgrims from all over tel. (+380) 44 280 18 34. The museum was created in 1923. Europe continues to attract droves of visitors today. Its Here we can see the so-called ’’ (the Ukrainian puppet territory of 28ha contains not only churches, towers and theatre of the 18th century), playbills and pictures of the plays an underground cave system but also some of Kyiv’s most of different Ukrainian theatre troupes and the personal effects interesting museums. of famous artists and musicians. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. First about the name - the Ukrainian ’pechera’ means ’cave’, Closed Tue. Admission 6Hr, children and students 4Hr. while ’Lavra’ is an Orthodox term given to its largest monastery. Founded in 1051 by monks Antony and Feodosiy, the Lavra State Museum of Ukrainian Decorative Art J-3, was called to spread the newly-adopted Christian religion Ivana Mazepy 21 (Lavra), MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 throughout Kyivan Rus. Monks worshipped, lived and were 280 36 93. The original art of the Ukrainian people is widely buried in caves, where a cool and humid atmosphere enabled represented here: icons, decorated eggs, embroidery, cloth- their bodies to mummify naturally. This apparent miracle ing, pottery, glass, faience, etc. There are special displays further enhanced the monastery’s reputation. The monks’ devoted to the work of the famous artists Kateryna Bilokur bodies have been almost perfectly preserved to this day, a and Mariya Pryimachenko. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed fact you can see yourself by descending into the caves with a Tue. Admission 5Hr, children and students 3Hr. candle to lead the way. Of particular interest are those monks Ukrainian State Museum of Books and Printing so humble that they only allowed their feet to be exposed. J-3 Ivana Mazepy 21 (Lavra), MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) Women are required to wear scarves, which are provided if 44 280 22 10. The museum is located in the space for- you don’t have your own. English tours can be arranged at merly occupied by the Lavra typography, which was built the ticket kiosk or with nice old ladies inside the entrance. in the 18th century. The collection includes manuscript The Lavra became a leading religious and cultural focal volumes from the times of Kyivan Rus, the first Ukrainian point of Eastern Europe in the 12th century. Studios for printed editions of the Lviv ’Apostle’ (1574) by Ivan Fedorov icon painting and the creation of mosaics served many (Ukraine’s first printer), the ’Ostroh Bible’ as well as fine Kyiv churches, and a scriptorium oversaw translating of examples of old Ukrainian book illustrations and many foreign literature into Slavic. The influential Slavic history other rare exhibits. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. “The Chronicle of Bygone Years” was written here by the Admission 5Hr, children and students 2Hr. historian Nestor. Other notable features include the burial Exibition of Microminiatures by M.Syadrystyi J-3, site of Yuri Dolgorukiy, the founder of Moscow, inside the Sicnevoho Povstannia 21(Lavra), MArsenal’na, tel. Church of the Saviour of Berestovo; and the 18th-century (+380) 44 280 81 37, www.microart.kiev.ua. A world of bell tower, the highest in all of Ukraine at 96m. wonder is presented for the visitors of this inimitable exhibition. Following years of Communist rule, the government has recently The exhibits displayed here are so tiny that they can be seen returned many buildings to the Orthodox Church. The monastery only under the microscope. Every work of art is exceptionally is once again operational in the form of Kyiv Theological Semi- unique and have been made by the craftsman M.Syadrystyi, nary and Academy. There are also many museums on the terri- Honorary Master of Ukrainian Folk Art. His creative art inspired tory, the best of which are listed below.QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. the creation of a new world - “microminiature”. QOpen 9:30 - Admission for foreigner: adults 16Hr, children 8Hr. 13:30, 14:30 - 19:00. Closed Tue. Admission 10Hr, children 3Hr.

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 40 What to see

Chernobyl It’s not every trip abroad you have the chance to visit the site of the world’s worst nuclear accident, is it? The Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant is only about a two-hour ride north of Kyiv. New Logic Tours - in conjunction with a gov- ernment agency - offers National Art Museum a day trip to the region, wisely realising that the Museums market for overnight stays is not great. According to travel Art Arsenal (Mystetskyi Arsenal) J-3, Lavr’ka 12-14, companies you can actually enter the contaminated zone, tel. (+380) 44 288 51 40, www.artarsenal.in.ua. The where you’ll be joined by your English-speaking guide, who biggest modern art project in Ukraine. The total area of the will show you the fateful reactor N°4 (from a safe distance). future cultural centre will be over 70 thousand square meters. You’ll also visit the nearby ghost town of Pripyat - where One art gallery is already open, and the whole Kyiv “Arsenal” some apartments still bear witness to the haste in which factory is under reconstruction. It will be turned into the biggest 47,500 residents were made to leave their homes - and museum complex in Ukraine. Ex-president Yuschenko’s goal is have a chance to converse with residents of surrounding to turn this new cultural centre into the heart of the spiritual and villages who refused to move. A trip to the acres of fields historical life of Ukraine. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. filled with contaminated vehicles, helicopters, etc. used in A small-scale Kyiv (Kyiv v miniaturi) K-3, Brovars’kyi the cleanup is optional. Comfortingly, you’ll be accompanied prosp. (near MLYN Restaurant complex), MHidropark, on your return trip to Kyiv by the same friendly driver, bring- tel. (+380) 44 516 46 10, www.minikiev.com.ua. This ing your 10-hour journey to environmental hell and back private collection presents the famous Kyiv buildings in to a close. Then you can enjoy a nuclear-free dinner: you’ll miniature. Do not miss the unique opportunity to see them participate in the cooking and checking of the ingredients from a bird’s eye view without flying. A perfect entertainment for radiation with a dosimeter. And in case you’re wonder- choice for kids and adults. Located in Hidropark near to the Mill ing, yes, your body will receive above-average doses of restaurant. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. radiation throughout the day, but the effects are said to Admission 15Hr. Free for children and senior sitizens. be harmless... If you are not convinced, you can satisfy your curiosity in radiation free environment: The National Bulgakov Museum (Muzey Bulgakova) C-2, Museum of Chernobyl. Andriivs’kyi uzviz 13, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 425 31 88, www.bulgakov.org.ua. The celebrated Rus- Museum of Chernobyl (Muzey Chornobylyu) sian writer Mikhail Bulgakov lived in this house from 1906-1916 D-1, Khorevyi lane 1, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. and again from 1918-1919. It was here that he wrote the novel (+380) 44 417 54 27. This museum does an excellent The White Guard and the play Days of Turbins. The old job of actually making you feel like you are at the site of Bulgakov family home is now home to the Bulgakov Museum, the infamous nuclear accident. Road signs from towns which displays the author’s personal things and family photos. and villages near Chernobyl greet you as you ascend the QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 20Hr. stairs, and as you descend the signs are crossed out to Ivan Honchar’s Museum, Ukrainian Centre of Folk signify your departure. It’s usually rather empty, but then Art J-4, Ivana Mazepy 29, MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 again so is the contamination zone. A few exhibits could be 288 92 68/(+380) 44 288 54 19, www.honchar.org.ua. a bit scary for kids, such as life-sized costumes with gas The Museum was founded in September 1993 and is based masks and pictures of deformed animals. Audio guides on Ivan Honchar’s (1911-1993) private collection. During the are available in four languages (English, German, Ukrainian Soviet period he was accused of nationalism. All those who and Russian).QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. manifested interest in his collection were registered with the Closed Sun. Admission: 10Hr, children 3Hr. KGB. The collection represents the “Ukrainahood” of the 17- 20th centuries and has 15 000 pieces. The centre piece of Chernobyl Tours Honchar’s collection are the folk pictures, the inventive hero Prime Excursion Bureau D-1, Schekavyts’ka 30/39, “Mamai Cossack” is especially popular. Also impressive is the suite 4, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 227 elaborate collection of clothes from the 18-19th centuries 77 78/207 12 55/0 99 550 00 00, info@primetour. (2500 samples) as well as pottery art exhibits (630 plates, ua, www.primetour.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Sat, Sun dishes, crockery and zoomorphic ceramic toys). QOpen 10:00 - 18:00 10:00 - 17:45. Closed Mon. Admission 5Hr, 3Hr for children. Museum (Muzey fortetsia) A-6, A-4, B. Khmel’nyts’koho 17/52 (Leonardo New Logic Hospital’na 24A, MPalats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 235 Business Centre), office 523, MTeatral’na, tel./fax 01 46. This part of the city’s fortifications was built in 1844. (+380) 44 206 22 00, [email protected], www.new- Arguably, this structure’s history has more do with defense- logic.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. less people rather than defending people. It was here that Mysterious Kyiv B-4, Khreschatyk 19A (Tourist Info supporters of the Tsar carried out executions of political Centre), MKhreschatyk tel. (+380) 44 491 11 76, prisoners, including the leaders of a Polish rebellion, in the [email protected], www.interesniy.kiev.ua. . 1860s. At the beginning of the 20th century, participants Tours2Chernobyl tel. (+380) 93 239 77 69, www. in a revolt of the Kyiv Pioneer Regiment met the same fate. tour2chernobyl.com. Indiviadual and group tours to Also during this time, ammunition and weapons were stored Chernobyl. in this semi-underground fortress with solid brick and stone walls. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Fri. Admission 14Hr.

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com What to see 41

Memorial Museum of Zankovets’ka (Muzey Zan’kovets’koi) H-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 121, Pyrohovo MPalats Ukraina, tel. (+380) 44 529 57 32. Maria Zankovets’ka was a prominent Ukrainian actress at the turn of the 20th century. Her original art comprised the greatest achivements of the Ukrainian theatre culture. She was part of the Ukrainian intellectual elite. The best playwrights of that time wrote their plays for her. She gave performances in Ukraine and also achieved popular acclaim and fame on the St. Petersburg and Moscow stage. Leading theatre critics of the day put Zankovets’ka’s name beside such theatre stars as Eleanore Douzet and Sarah Bernhardt. She was called the Ukrainian Douzet for she was among those actors who created psychological theatre. Among the great admirers of herv talent were Chekhov and Tolstoy, Tchaicovski and Folk Architecture and Life Museum Pyrohovo, marshrutkas #3 and 156 from MLybids‘ka, tel. (+380) Repin, Bunin and many others. The museum of Zankovets’ka 44 526 55 42. There is a place in Kyiv where you can say in Kyiv consists f an exposition dedicated to life and work of “Let‘s go to the 16th century Carpathians” and then find the actress, and of her memorial apartment. QOpen 10:30 yourself there in a matter of minutes. No…we‘re not offer- - 17:00. Closed Mon. ing you a ride in Doc Brown‘s Delorean time machine. It‘s Museum of Modern Ukrainian Fine Arts Collection Pyrohovo – a picturesque open-air museum of old Ukrainian (Muzey suchasnoho ukrains’koho mystetstva) lifestyle and folk culture. D-2, Hlybochyts’ka 17, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. The museum is divided into areas representing different re- (+380) 44 463 76 69. A large private collection of mas- gions of Ukraine. The clay huts roofed with thatch or wooden terpieces of modern Ukrainian art - exactly what the state shingles and the archaic barns and wells recreate an authentic museums are lacking. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun village atmosphere. Everything is meant to bring you back to 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. the Ukraine of 16th to 19th centuries. At Pyrohovo you will find wooden churches, windmills, and even a school building Museum of Russian Art (Muzey rosiis’koho typical of rural areas from recent centuries. Different kinds of mystetstva) A-4, Tereschenkivs’ka 9, MTeatral’na, structures (water-mills, forges, cattle-sheds “shopa”, grana- tel. (+380) 44 234 62 18. Outside of Moscow and St. ries “komora”, threshing floors, “stodola” for storing cereals, Petersburg, one of the largest collections of Russian art is apiaries, hen houses, cellars and wells) will tell you the story housed here. The building belonged to the upper-class Tere- of how folks lived in Ukraine centuries ago. If everything at schenko family and was built in the 1880s. Private artworks the museum seems very authentic, that‘s because it really confiscated and nationalised by the Soviets along with the is. Most of the buildings are in fact original and were moved Tereschenkos’ holdings formed the bulk of the museum’s ex- here piece by piece from villages all over Ukraine. hibits when it was opened in 1922. The most prized displays From the main entrance, the road leads you across a large are a collection of exceptional Russian icons dating back to wheat field to the Middle Prydniprovia sector with the Church the late 13th century. The museum features artwork from of the Great Martyn, Saint Paraskeva Friday (Cherkassy region, many famous Russian painters such as I. Repin, M. Vrubel 1742), the small Church of the Archangel Michael (1601), and N. Rerikh, as well as sculptures, handicraft and graphics. and a unique collection of windmills “vitriaky”. Next, on the Kids should be kept on a tight rein as the staff can be rude if hillside, you will come to the Podillia sector with the Church little people get too close to exhibits. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. of and a bell tower from the beginning of the Closed Wed, Thu. Admission 6Hr, English tours 24Hr. 19th century, brought here from the Husiatyn area. At the centre of the museum‘s territory the Poltavschyna and Slo- Museum of the Great Patriotic War (Muzey Velykoi bozhanschyna complex is arranged. A little farther on, visitors Vitchyznianoi Viyny) J-4, Lavrs’ka 24, MArsenal’na, can see the Polissye sector dominated by the unique hip-roof tel. (+380) 44 285 94 52, www.warmuseum.kiev.ua. Voskresens‘ka Church (Rivnenschyna, 17th-18th century). This World War II memorial complex, which opened in 1981, The exposition of village huts () here is unique for their includes a museum with 18 different galleries, an eternal age (1587 to 1687). In the northern part of the museum, the flame, plaques honouring particularly heroic Soviet cities Carpathian sector features scattered small farms, with the bell and an outdoor display containing military planes and other tower of the ancient Pokrovs‘ka Church rising above. equipment from various wars. The centrepiece of it all is of But wait till you get inside these huts! There you will find course the massive titanium statue of a woman, 62m tall to be stunning exhibitions of traditional Ukrainian clothing, ce- exact, grasping a 12-ton sword and a shield. Honouring Soviet ramics, household and farming equipment, and of course defenders during World War II, its Socialist Realism style is the stove. This was the centrepiece of any khata, and an interesting contrast to the nearby ancient golden domes was used for cooking, drying, heating and even sleeping. of Pechers’ka Lavra. If you’re just slightly worried about the Pyrohovo is also a great park - a pleasant retreat with ‘Mother of the Motherland’ being a tad too top-heavy, you’re plenty of space for playing games with kids or for a leisurely not the only one. There have been scattered reports that the afternoon in the shade of trees. If you want to get around whole structure was not build very soundly and is danger of faster, you may rent a bike or even hire a horseback ride. falling over, but so far so good. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed And if you care for your spiritual well-being, visit the church Mon. Admission 10Hr. Admission to 36 m view point - 50Hr, service on Sunday. Held in one of the museum‘s beautiful 91m view point - 200Hr. ancient wooden churches, it is a real adventure for your soul. Traditional fairs are organised at Pyrohovo in May and National Art Museum (Natsional’nyi khudozhniy September, to mark the beginning and the end of the sea- muzey) C-5, M.Hrushevs’koho 6, MMaidan Nezalezhos- son. But don‘t worry if you miss them. There are plenty of ti, tel. (+380) 44 278 13 57, www. namu.kiev.ua. Built festivals and celebrations going on at Pyrohovo the whole in the late 19th century in the style of a Greek temple with a season. Main national and religious holidays are celebrated six-column portico designed by Kyiv architects Horodets’kyi here according to folk traditions. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. and Boytsov, valuable collections largely unknown to West- Admission 15Hr. English-speaking guides available. ern visitors are contained in the museum’s 21 galleries. kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 42 What to see

in this house. For a long period of time it was known as Kyiv State Museum of Western and Eastern Art. Now its initial name has been given back. The embellishments of the collection are works of outstanding Renaissance mas- ters. Rich diversity of genres distinguishes the museum’s holdings of North European countries. The exposition of Spanish art includes two true gems from the XVII cen- tury - “Portrait of Infant Margarita” by Diego Velasquez and “Still Life with Chocolate Milk” by Juan de Zurbaran. QOpen 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 15Hr, English tours 150Hr by appointment (group of 10-25 people). The National Museum “Memorial in Commemora- tion of Famines’ Victims in Ukraine” C-6, Lavrs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 254 45 12, www.memorialgolodomors. org. During the whole existence of the Soviet Union regime Ukrainian people endured horrible tragedies - famines of 1921-1922, 1932-1933, 1946-1947, which took millions of Ukrainian’s lives. The worst humanitarian catastrophe of 20th century for Ukraine was an artificially engineered by Stalin’s regime Famine of 1932-1933, during which 3 941 000 people died. Museum is dedicated to the victims of these awful tragedies. Excursions are held every hour from 10:00. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. The One Street Museum (Muzey odniei vulytsi) C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 2B, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 425 03 98. This fascinating little museum near the bottom of Andriivs’kyi uzviz tells the rich history of this important street through the years. Special attention is paid to recreating the atmosphere of this thoroughfare during the Memorial in Commemoration of Famines’ Victims turn of the 20th century. While Andriivs'kyi Uzviz is under Pieces include Ukrainian icons, paintings, and sculptures reconstraction this is a good place to get known the street from the 14th century through the early 20th century. Works better.QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20Hr. of revered artist and poet Taras Shevchenko, M.Pymonenko, The Pharmacy Museum (Apteka-muzey) D-2, K.Kostandi and H.Narbut are some of the highlights of Prytys’ko-Mykils’ka 7, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. the museum. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 12:00 - 19:00, (+380) 44 425 24 37. You may be wondering just how much Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 20Hr, enjoyment can be had out of a museum whose sole subject kids 2Hr. is the history of pharmaceuticals, but when you think of the National History Museum (Natsional’nyi istorych- vital role drugs play in the lives of the capitals legions of cold nyi muzey) C-2, Volodymyrs’ka 2, MZoloti Vorota, tel. sufferers it becomes clear that this cosy little museum is a (+380) 44 278 48 64. Located on a bluff above Andriivs’kyi must of social history. The building is in great condition and uzviz, this museum carries forth on a wide range of topics dates back to 1728. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. concerning Ukraine’s history from prehistoric times up to the Admission 7Hr, 5Hr for children. present day. There are extensive collections of old books, The Spiritual Treasures of Ukraine (Muzey coins and bills, works of art and archaeological and ethno- dukhovnykh skarbiv Ukrainy) C-3, Desiatynna 12, graphical findings. Behind the museum is a path that leads MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 278 83 08. This museum to a wonderful view from ’s highest point overlooking is the first private art museum in Ukraine. In bright spacious the lower town of Podil. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. halls of museum more than 300 first class works of Ukrain- Admission 24Hr. ian icon-painters of 15th-19th centuries are presented from PinchukArtCentre (Museum of Contemporary almost all regions from West to East of Ukraine and more Art) A-5, Chervovoarmiis’ka 1-3, Arena Complex, ML’va than 100 iconograthical images and themes. The museum Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 590 08 58, www.pinchukart- has also the collection of the works of the world-known centre.org/en. PinchukArtCentre is one of the biggest Ukrainian painter Maria Prymachenko. 50 of her best works contemporary art centres in the Eastern Europe. Among of naive art are presented at the museum. QOpen 11:00 its main activities - exhibition running, cultural projects sup- - 19:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Fri. Admission 15Hr, for children port, stipend granting to talented artists, etc. The first “New and students 5Hr. Space” exhibition, opened at PinchukArtCentre from 16th of Water Information Centre D-4, M.Hrushevs’koho 1C, September till 16th of December 2006, has been attended MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 53 33. by 35 000 persons. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Anyone strolling through Khreschatyi Park (above European Admission is free. Square and The Philharmonic) will notice the two towers The Bohdan and Varvara Khanenko Art Museum rising above the tree line. They host a museum of water, (Muzey mystetstv imeni Bohdana ta Varvary which contains information on water resources: natural Khanenkiv) A-4, Tereshchenkivs’ka 15-17, ML’va water circulation, potable water purification, new technolo- Tolstoho, tel.(+380) 44 235 02 06, www.khanenko- gies and water’s chemical components. Entering the centre museum.kiev.ua. The house was owned by a famous you descend in an elevator to a depth of 20 meters and collector of art and benefactor Bohdan Khanenko (1849- are confronted by fascinating exhibits. Admission adults 1917), and his wife Varvara (1852-1922). In 1919, on the 15Hr, children and students 10Hr. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. base of their private collection, a museum was opened Closed Mon, Tue.

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com A weekend in Lviv 43

Lviv is the city where the past meets the future. The historic streets are full with people hurrying to find their To Know More place in modern Europe, while monument of national and local heroes watch over them. Visitors can stroll through This three pages are only beautiful parks when the weather permits, visit the a brief look at Lviv. It will be numerous inspiring churches, to take in a performance in definitely enough for a week- Opera House, considered to be one of the most beautiful end in the city, but if you want in Europe. A new generation of the entrepreneurs has met to become more familiar with the recent influx of tourist with new restaurants, pubs Lviv, to get know this marvel- and bars with a high level of service and range of styles. lous city better we highly Named after Prince Lev in 1256, Lviv has been an impor- recommend you to look in our tant city in no less than five different countries in a little full Lviv In Your Pocket guide. over 200 years, even enjoying a brief period as the capital Except a full list of city sights, of the independent Western Ukrainian Republic in 1918. hotels, restaurants, pubs and Lviv is popular for churches and cathedrals. Their spires clubs the guide contains op- stand out all over the centre’s skyline and have earned tions for shopping lovers, sport Lviv the status of a UNESCO World Heritage. The majority and health institutions and a of them were built in the 13th and 14th centuries and still essential business directory. survive today. Nowadays Lviv has also become famous as a cultural capital of Ukraine, hosting numerous thematic festivals thought the year. George C-5, Mickiewicza pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 232 62 Getting there 32, fax (+380) 32 297 11 44, [email protected]. Getting to Lviv is relatively easy. A number of trains and buses ua, www.georgehotel.com.ua. Hotel George was founded as well as regular flights operate through the day between by George Hoffman in 1901. The structure itself is a fine Kyiv and Western Ukraine capital. example of Neo-Renaissance architecture and was designed by famed Viennese architects Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann By Bus Helmer. Many rooms have romantic views of Svobody prosp. From Kyiv Central Bus Station (Moskovska pl. 1, MDemiivs’ka) and Lviv’s historic centre. The service is up to standard regular international buses depart almost every hour in the and English is not a problem for most of the helpful staff. morning time and some close to the end of the day. Every bus Q90 rooms (economy rooms 350Hr, standards 700 - 750Hr, in Western direction passes Lviv and arrives to the Lviv Bus junior suites 800Hr, suites 900Hr). PHARKW hhh Termanal (Stryis’ka 189). Take a taxi to city centre for about Kupava E-2, Komarova 17, tel./fax (+380) 32 245 03 70Hr or try to catch trolleybus 9 (1.50Hr) or marshrutka 95 45, [email protected], www.kupavahotel.com. A (2Hr). Lviv has also regular long distance bus communication fairly new hotel a bit outside the centre with 13 lovely rooms with Poland, Hungary, Germany, Greece, France, Russia, ranging from 500-1600Hr. The restaurant has to be seen to Moldova and Lithuania. be believed. It is divided into several sections, extravagantly By train & plane styled as though being in an old Ukrainian indoor-outdoor hunt- See Getting around section of this guide for current trains ing lodge. The English menu is reasonably priced with a daily and flights schedules. complete menu for 55Hr. The staff is very friendly and helpful. Q12 rooms (6 standards 500 - 720Hr, 4 junior suite 930 - 1100Hr, 2 suite 1600Hr). PH6LGKDCW hhhh Where to stay Reikartz Medievale C-3, Drukarska 9, tel. (+380) 32 Lviv provides a widest range of hotels and hostels, which 235 08 90, [email protected], en.reikartz. offer a full range of comfort, style and service. com. This hotel is situated in the very centre of historic Lviv, close to Rynok Square. The staff is English speaking and Grand Hotel B-4, Svobody prosp. 13, tel. (+380) 322 extremely friendly. All rooms are bright and refreshing and well 72 40 42, fax (+380) 322 76 90 60, reservation@gh- priced. Everything you could ask for is included, Internet, cable group.com.ua, www.ghgroup.com.ua. Grand is extremely satellite TV, safe, mini bar etc. Don’t forget that one is only adept at meeting the needs of western travellers. Rooms seconds from the excitement of the old city and all it offers. come with classic interiors, modern amenities and views of Q23 rooms (6 singles 590Hr, 8 doubles 690Hr, 6 superior either the quiet courtyard or of bustling Svobody prosp. The 890Hr, 3 suite 1390Hr). PRUW hhhh professional staff is fluent in English making for a no-hassle C-3, Rynok pl. 5, tel. (+380) 32 experience. Q61 rooms (singles €82, doubles €107, junior Central Square Hostel 254 61 69, [email protected], www.cshostel.com/ suites €143, suites €170, apartment €220, extra bed €30). PHARFLGKDW hhhh en. Central offers the unique experience of staying right on Rynok pl. (Market Square) - Lviv’s cobbled heart. With only Leopolis B-3, Teatral’na 16, tel. (+380) 32 295 95 00, fax 18 available beds, space is limited. Owner and stuff will give (+380) 32 295 95 99, [email protected], you most needed information about city and places where www.leopolishotel.com. Located in a newly renovated 18th to go. Q doubles 150Hr, triples 160Hr, quads 140Hr, 6-dorm century structure just steps from historic Rynok pl., Leopolis 120Hr, 8-dorm 95Hr. R6GW is a nose ahead when it comes to class. All rooms are unique, Soviet Home Hostel Drukars’ka 3, tel. (+380) 93 319 stylishly designed and come with classy touches such as heated 67 97, [email protected], www.homehostels. tile floors, anti-allergenic features, stereo systems that weave org. Soviet Home offers the fascinating experience of living throughout the rooms (there are even speakers in the shower), in a typical Soviet-era flat with two important exceptions: high-speed wireless Internet, soundproof triple-pane windows, modern bathrooms and beds. Just a minute from Rynok etc.. Q43 rooms (18 superiors €165 - 220, 22 junior suites ploscha, the location is truly exceptional. Q4 rooms (singles €250, 2 suites €400, 1 apartment €550, extra bed €30). 190 - 200Hr, doubles 150 - 170Hr, triples 140 - 150Hr, 6-dorm PHR6ULGKW hhhhh 90 - 100Hr, 10-dorm 95 - 100Hr). R6GW kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 44 A weekend in lviv

Puzata Khata A-4, Sichovykh Striltsiv 12, tel. (+380) 32 Where to eat 244 87 28, www.puzatakhata.kiev.ua. Albeit a low-budget, For sure this list isn’t complete Lviv eatery scene. You’ll find much family-friendly, Puzata Khata has a knack for establishing itself more either at our website lviv.inyourpocket.com or in print edi- in prime locations. This is true of the Lviv restaurant sandwiched tion of our guide, which is available around Lviv. But we choose between Svobody prosp. and Ivan Franko National University. All the best Lviv can offer you on a limited space of this spread. restaurants in this chain offer a satisfying selection of traditional Ukrainian dishes. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PAIGS Amadeus C-4, Сathedral’na pl. 7, tel. (+380) 32 261 50 22. A covered summer terrace of this popular restaurant near Salo Restaurant & Museum B-4, Svobody prosp. 6-8, the Latin Cathedral catches the eye immediately. With one tel. (+380) 32 235 55 36, www.artsalo.com. Salo is a of the most eclectic menus of Galycia, it’s hard to go wrong bit like a museum, but more like a contemporary art space. and the pork steak Amadeus comes highly recommended. In the restaurant area you’ll be offered a Salo Art Menu which QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAB contains some uniquely sculptured forms of salo. (FYI-Salo is pure pig fat, a Ukrainian delicacy). QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Atmosphera C-4, Brativ Rohatyntsiv 18, tel. (+380) 32 Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. A6ESW 235 88 99, www.atmosphera.lviv.ua. Atmosphera offers “creative” Euro cuisine to go with the ultra-chic ambiance. Veronika C-6, Shevchenka prosp. 21, tel. (+380) 2 The menu features steaks (pork and veal) and intriguing 261 44 56, www.veronika.lviv.ua. On a day when most dishes such as Mafaldine pasta with cold smoked salmon, eateries were deserted, Veronika only had a couple tables red caviar, cream and parmesan cheese. QOpen 12:00 - available in the basement. But you wouldn’t be surprised if 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. ESW you know that Veronika is the oldest and probably the best city confectionery. Sweets made by old Austrian-Hungarian Bianco Rosso B-4, Svobody prosp. 6-8, tel. (+380) recipes are really delicious. Vine map contains best French, 32 235 54 44. Pretty much the real thing! And right in the Italian, Spanish, Australian, Argentinian, North American and centre! The Italian chef, Angelo even brought his own pasta Chilly vines. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AGBS machine with him! The décor is something like ‘Art Deco” and the background music is actually enjoyable and not something one has to shout over to be heard. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PTA6GBSW What to drink? Cazanova C-3, Stavropihiys’ka 7, tel. (+380) 32 236 Do you know the most popular drink in Lviv? No, that’s not 75 74. Travel back to Venice in the time of Giacomo Girolamo beer. You may not believe, but this is coffee. And it’s not Casanova who was so famous as a womanizer that his name occasional! It was the native of Lviv region, who opened remains synonymous with the art of seduction. This is a com- the first public coffee house in Europe. It happened in bination restaurant-strip club. There is an Italian-European Vienna in 1683. His name was Yuri Kulchytsky and he menu with a businessman’s lunch from Monday to Friday for was from Sambir (Lviv region) by origin. only 45Hr as well as a tourist menu for groups making ad- vanced bookings. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PAIGSW Café 1 C-4, Kathedral’na pl. 5, tel. (+380) 32 242 33 69. The smell of fermented is sure to perk your nos- Darwin B-3, Shevs’ka 6, 5th floor, tel. (+380) 32 294 82 trils as you enter this small but inviting café. Ideally located in 05. Located on the fifth and sixth floor of a renovated historic the heart of the old town, tables can sometimes be hard to structure, the elegant atmosphere is framed by enticing views find, but any wait is well worth it. Wonderful English speak- of surrounding ancient roof tops. The menu contains one of ing service is available. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. ALG the most elaborate seafood selections found in the city with fried dorado, calamari, sea bass and savoury salmon dishes. Freska B-3, Krakivs’ka 9, tel. (+380) 32 272 49 85. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PW Revered for their classic Lviv-style coffee and extensive tea card, they’re even more renowned for their uniquely Dim Legend D-4, Staroyevreis’ka 48, tel. (+380) 67 670 delectable candies, cakes and chocolate fondue. The 38 28, www.lokal.lviv.ua. This restaurant-café has become pleasant atmosphere perched on Krakivs’ka vul., a something of a legend in Lviv. It is located on 7 small floors lively pedestrian thoroughfare, make this a fine choice with a real ‘Trabi’ sitting on the roof top terrace with a great for indulging in a local’s favourite pastime of lounging view of old Lviv. Each floor has a different theme telling the for hours on a café stool. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PG story of Lviv. No visit to Lviv is complete without stopping here! QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PAEGB Masoch Café C-4, Serbs’ka 7, tel. (+380) 32 272 18 72, www.masoch-cafe.com.ua. This titillating Kryjivka C-4, Rynok pl. 14, tel. (+380) 32 254 61 18/, theme café/restaurant is dedicated to writer and original www.kryjivka.com.ua. When the uniformed guard opens freak Leopold Ritter von Sacher-Masoch who was born in the peep-hole to this theme café/restaurant and says “Slava Lviv in 1836. They boast the best fondue in town and the Ukraini”, that’s your cue to respond “Geroyam slava”. This was waitresses will handcuff and whip you free of charge. On the greeting used by soldiers of the Ukrainian Insurgent Army your way out the door, don’t forget to reach into Leopold’s (UPA) as they waged guerrilla war against the Nazis, Poles and pocket for this café’s version of a fortune cookie. QOpen Soviet Union from 1943-49. It’s also your ticket past the guard. 11:00 - 01:00. PASW Once inside, you’ll find a fascinating and jovial bunker complete with grenades, rifles and other military antiques. Traditional Lviv’s Chocolate Workshop C-4, Serbs’ka 3, tel. Ukrainian dishes and spirits add to what is certain to be a lasting (+380) 50 430 60 33, www.chocolate.lviv.ua. This memory of your visit to Lviv. QOpen 24hrs. AW lovely chocolate shop is easy to find as there is always a crowd looking through the window and gathering at the Kumpel D-5, Vynnychenka 6, tel. (+380) 32 242 17 80. small sales stall on this quaint walking street in the heart The centrepiece of this lively restaurant is the two large vats of the old city. Milkshakes, ice cream, cakes and snacks where Kumpel beer is brewed. It’s definitely worth your time are awaiting you as well. Also on the ground floor, one to sample all three varieties (dark, light and red). We were can view the actual workshop where these delicacies are particularly impressed by the incredibly fresh and lively light. made. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. PAGSW The menu is loaded with steaks, seafood and beer munchies. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAGBS

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com a weekend in lviv 45

The St. George Cathedral (Sobor Sviatoho Yura) The Chapel of the Boim G-3, pl. Svyatoho Yura 5. This Greek Catholic cathedral, Family (Kaplytsia Bo- constructed in 1744-1761, is a remarkable example of imiv) C-4, Katedral‘na pl. Rococo architecture. Located at the height of St. George 1, tel. (+380) 32 274 40 Mount, the cathedral dominates the surrounding area. In 47. Constructed in the early the cathedral itself, there lies a crypt where celebrated 17th century on the grounds of figures of the Ukrainian church are entombed. While visit- what was a city cemetery; this ing Lviv, Pope John Paul II lived in the Metropolitan‘s Palace. quaint structure was originally QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Admission is free. intended for use as a crypt by the Boim family. Fresco The Armenian Cathedral (Virmens‘kyi Sobor) C-3, portraits of George Boim and Virmens‘ka 7. began inhabiting the city in the 14th his wife Jadwiga can be viewed century and quickly established their own quarter complete with from Halyts‘ka vul. The site a small cathedral completed in 1370. This original building per- has been protected by UN- ished in the fire of 1527. The neighbouring buildings are those of a ESCO since the 1970s. QO- former Armenian bank, established in the 17th century, and Lviv‘s pen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed oldest pawnshop. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Admission is free. Mon. Admission 10Hr, children 5Hr. The Assumption Church The Latin Cathedral (Uspens‘ka Tserkva) (Latyns‘kyi Sobor) C-4, B-3, Rus‘ka 7. This vibrant Katedral‘na pl. 1. This is a example of Renaissance ar- spectacular example of an- chitecture has served as cient Lviv‘s Gothic influence. the centre of the Orthodox Officially known as the Arch- cathedral Basilica of the Christian faith for centuries. In Assumption of the Blessed the middle of the 16th century, Virgin Mary, it‘s understand- the Assumption Brotherhood able why most just call it the was founded here along with Latin. Constructed in 1360, a printing press and a school. a relic was incorporated into Also located on the premises the first foundation stone are Kornjakt‘s Tower and the by King Kazimir the Great. Chapel of Three Prelates. Pope John Paul II attended QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Ad- mass here on June 26th, mission is free. 2001. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Admission 2Hr. Photography is prohibited. The Bernardine Cathe- dral and Monastery D-5, The St. Peter and Paul Church of the Jesuit Order Soborna pl. 1-3. This is one (Kostiol Jezuitiv) B-4, Teatral‘na 11. Located with its of the most inspiring sites in back turned to Svobody prosp. and the monument of Taras Lviv. The area around which Shevchenko, this is considered one of the more mystical places the monastery stands has in Lviv. The church was constructed in the beginning of the 17th century and is modelled after the classic Church of the Gesù in evolved over the years, but Rome. A section of the premises is currently occupied by the the monastery itself remains Lviv Scientific Library and is used as an archive. as architect Pavlo Rimlyanin envisioned. Constructed in Johann Pinzel Museum (Muzey Ioana Pinzelya) D-5, Mytna pl. 2, tel. (+380) 322 75 69 66. This museum the 17th century, the Cathe- presents 32 sculptures of the world-renown 18th century dral‘s façade is protected by Lvivian sculptor Johann Georg Pinzel. Often referred to as statues of the sacred order Ukrainian‘s Michelangelo the beauty and mastery of his of Bernardine. QOpen 10:00 work justifies this distinction. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun - 11:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Admis- 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5Hr, students and sion is free. children - 2Hr. Photography allowance - 20Hr. The Dominican Cathe- Lviv History Museum (Lvivs‘kyi istorychnyi muzey) dral (Dominicans‘kyi C-3, pl. Rynok 6, tel. (+380) 322 74 33 04, www.lhm.lviv. Sobor) D-3, Museina pl. ua/eng. Founded in 1893, this is one of Lviv‘s oldest museums. 1. The foundation of the Originally located in a chamber of City Hall, the contemporary mu- Dominican Monastery dates seum is spread out among four unique architectural monuments back to the second half dating from the 16th-18th centuries. The collection is composed of the 13th century when of more than 330 thousand exhibits that offer fascinating snap- Constance, the wife of Lev shots into the lives of those who inhabited Lviv from ancient I of Galicia, commissioned times up to the present. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. the construction of a small Admission 8Hr, students and senior citizen 5Hr. wooden church in gratitude The Pharmacy Museum “Pid Chornym Orlom” C-3, for the generosity of the Drukars‘ka 2, tel. (+380) 322 72 00 41. If you haven‘t no- local Dominican monks. Con- ticed by now, Ukrainians love pharmaceuticals. There‘s a drug struction on the new cathe- store on practically every corner of every city! The foundation of dral, designed by architect a museum dedicated to the apothecary is very fitting. The Phar- Jan de Witte, began shortly macy Museum is located in a drugstore established in 1735 by after. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Admission is free. a military pharmacist.QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 5Hr. kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 46 SPORT & LEISURE Mail & Phones

Skiing Billiard & Bowling Chameleon G-2, Peremohy prosp. 3, “Ukraine” Shopping Mall, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 496 17 17, www. Ski slopes in Kyiv club300.com.ua. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. 99-198Hr per hour. G-4, Protasiv Yar 39, MPalats Ukraina, Protasiv Yar Jumbo O-4, Moskovs’kyi prosp. 20B, MPetrivka, tel. tel. (+380) 44 528 37 57, www.gora.com.ua. Full (+380) 44 390 53 77, www.jumbo.kiev.ua. QOpen skiing equipment rentals start at 70Hr for two hours 24hrs. 84-216Hr per hour. (85Hr on weekend). Each next hour - 25Hr. The prices for instruction is 150Hr per hour. Snowboard rentals start Machaon L-2, Luhova 12, Karavan Shopping Mall, at 90Hr. One lift-ride cost 3-8Hr. Entrance costs 10 Hr. MObolon’, tel. (+380) 44 206 43 33, www.club300. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Mon 14:00 - 22:00. Night skiing com.ua. Q 78-198Hr per hour. on Saturday 22:30 - 04:00. Ultramarin G-3, Uritskoho 1A, MVokzal’na, tel. (+380) Vyshgora Vatutina 102, Vyshgorod, MMinska, 44 206 03 51/(+380) 44 206 03 53, www.ultramarine. tel. (+380) 67 468 06 15, www.vishgora.com.ua. com.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 06:00. Full skiing equipment rentals start at 130Hr for a day (190Hr on weekend). One lift-ride cost 5Hr (10Hr on weekends). Ski-passes available for 6, 12 hours and for Fitness clubs a day. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. 5th Element Club Elektrykiv 29A, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 351 77 33, www.5el.com.ua/ Bukovel Resort eng/. Q Open Mon-Fri 07:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 09:00-23:00. Aquarium Fitness Centre O-1, Heroiv Stalinhrada Located in the Ivano-Frankivs’k region, 30km west of 45, MMins’ka, tel. (+380) 44 239 22 22. QOpen Yaremche Bukovel is Ukraine’s largest ski resort. With 07:00 - 23:00. high-speed chair lifts, meticulously groomed slopes, snow-making machines and ubiquitous security person- Club Olympus C-3, Tarasova 5A (Hyatt Regency Kyiv nel, it is also Ukraine’s first European-class resort. Indeed, Hotel), MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 581 12 it’s rather unusual to see this degree of organisation in 40, www.kyiv.regency.hyatt.com. QOpen 06:00 - 23:30. Ukraine. Bukovel has been carefully planned to make Favourite V.I.P. Club C-5, Muzeinyi prov. 6, MMaidan skiing enjoyable and convenient - queues longer than Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 33 38. QOpen five minutes are rare. 07:00 - 23:00. This mountain is booming! Over the next few seasons Kodokan C-4, M.Hrushevs’koho 3, MMaidan Nezalezh- Bukovel plans to have 278km of trails and 35 lifts, which nosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 01 01. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, would make it one of the 20 largest ski resorts in the Mon, Sat 09:00 - 21:00. world. At the start of this season, 14 lifts and 50km of runs were available. Check out their website for more Sport Life H-4, M.Hrinchenka 2/1, MOlimpiys’ka, tel. information including current snow conditions. (+380) 44 585 72 72. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sat 09:00 - 21:00. Getting there From Kyiv, the plane will get you to Ivano-Frankivs’k, and Skating rings trains can take you as far as Yaremcha. From Lviv you Bil’shovyk E-2, Het’mana 6 (Bil’shovyk shopping mall), can also get by train to Ivano-Frankivs’k, from where you MShuliavs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 200 07 50. QOpen 08:00- can go by taxi, bus or marshrutka (minivan). The distance 03:00. Admission 25-55Hr for adults, 15-35Hr for children. from Ivano-Frankivs’k to Bukovel is 110km. - 24:00. Admission 30-50Hr for adults, 20-30Hr for children. If you drive (not recommended), it’s best to travel via Ice Dream N-2, Obolons’kyi prosp. (between Obolon’ Ivano-Frankivs’k. Then proceed through the towns of and Metro stations), MMins’ka, tel. (+380) 44 Nadvirna and Yaremche, then through the villages of 428 36 11. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Admission 30-50Hr for Mykulychyn, Tatariv and Polyanytsya. Follow the signs adults, 20-35Hr for children. to Bukovel. Free parking is available. Karavan L-2, Luhova 9 (Karavan Shopping mall), MMins’ka, tel. (+380) 44 461 82 06. QOpen 08:15 - Ski slopes 23:15. Admission and 45 minutes of skating costs 30-50Hr Bukovel’s base elevation is nearly 900m above sea for adults, 10-25Hr for children. level, and the highest ski lift rises to 1372m, making it the second highest ski resort in Ukraine. All categories of slope difficulty are available. There is a very long Swimming pools gradual slope that is perfect for beginners, a couple of Olymp H-4, Dymytrova 10, MOlimpiys’ka, tel. (+380) 44 short tows for children and “super-beginners”, all levels 287 61 49. You’ll pay 60Hr for a 45-minutes swim at Olimp. of intermediate runs and several black diamond runs for Regular vistors can go 10 times for 540Hr and save 60 hryvnas. experts and the idiotic brave. Night skiing is available QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. from 17:00 - 20:00; however, only one upper intermediate Yunist J-5, Bastionna 7, MDruzhby Narodiv, tel. slope is currently equipped with lights. For more informa- (+380) 44 285 21 22. Open air swimming pool.QOpen tion check out the trail map at http://bukovel.com/map. 06:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 21:00. Admission 65-75Hr for a Blue indicates beginner slopes, red are intermediate and 45-minutes swim. black are advanced.

For futher information, current weather, ski rental prices, Tennis courts lift passes check www.bukovel.com/en. Podil Tennis Courts N-6, Mezhyhirs’ka 56/63A, MTarasa Shevchenko, tel. (+380) 44 451 58 58. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Mail & Phones 47

Postal delivery in Ukraine is generally reliable, but every so often a letter or package will go missing and never Using a telephone arrive at its intended destination, which is quite annoying. Fixed line telephone Connections involving fixed line telephones are often bad, To call a number inside Kyiv just dial the number. To make a long- sometimes incorporating another conversation into yours distance telephone call, dial 0, wait for the dial tone and then dial or going dead in mid-conversation. Mobile phones are already very popular, and the internet is getting there. the city code and number. To call Kyiv from another town, dial 0, wait for the tone, dial Kyiv’s city code (44) and then the number. To make an international call, dial 0, wait for the tone, and then Post dial 0 plus the country code, city code and number itself. Central Post Office C-4, Khreschatyk 22, MMaidan Ukrainian city codes Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 230 08 38, www.ukr- Cherkasy 47 Kirovohrad 52 Rivne 36 poshta.com. Kyiv’s main post office can’t be missed. The Chernihiv 46 Kyiv 44 Sevastopol 69 Poshtamt (поштамт) is on a corner of Maidan Nezalezhnosti Chernivtsi 37 Kyiv Region 45 65 opposite the tall monument. A myriad of windows as well as colourful pictures of city landmarks await in the main hall Dnipropetrovsk 56 64 Sumy 54 straight ahead. The less intimidating hall to the right offers a Donetsk 62 Lutsk 33 Ternopil 35 wide selection of postcards and hosts a 24-hour Internet café Ivano-Frankivsk 34 Lviv 32 Uzhhorod 31 upstairs. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Sun 09:00 - 19:00. 57 Mykolaiv 51 Vinnitsa 43 Kherson 55 Odesa 48 Zaporizhya 61 Express mail Khmelnytsky 38 Poltava 53 Zhytoymyr 41 DHL Vasyl’kivs’ka 1, MLybids’ka, tel. (+380) 44 490 26 The above Ukrainian city codes should be prefixed with an 00/258 25 00/258 17 66, www.dhl.com.ua. Express- “0” if dialing from another Ukrainian town. centres: Business-centre “Kyiv-Donbass” Pushkins’ka 42/4, International country codes 1st floor M L’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 490 26 00; Travel Company “SAM” Ivana Franka 40 B, M Universytet tel. (+380) Australia 61 Germany 49 Poland 48 44 238 69 85/238 69 51; QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 Austria 43 Greece 30 Romania 40 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Belgium 32 Hungary 36 Russia 7 Bulgaria 359 Ireland 353 Spain 34 Federal Express Kikvidze 44, MDruzhby Narodiv, tel. Canada 1 Israel 972 Sweden 46 (+380) 44 495 20 20, fax (+380) 44 495 20 39, www. Czech Rep. 420 Italy 39 Turkey 90 fedex.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Denmark 45 Japan 81 Ukraine 380 TNT Moskovs’kyi prosp. 28A, MPetrivka, tel. (+380) Finland 358 Moldova 373 UK 44 44 207 07 70, fax (+380) 44 207 07 80, www.tnt.com. France 33 Netherlands 31 USA 1 QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A The above International country codes should be prefixed UPS H-4, Mechnykova 20, MKlovs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 with “0-0” if dialing from inside Ukraine. 280 00 00, fax (+380) 44 280 10 19, www.ups.com. Roaming QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. To call a fixed telephone in Ukraine use +380 followed by the city code and phone number. While calling a mobile phone, Internet cafés use the operator’s code instead of a city code. Central Post Office C-4, Khreschatyk 22, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 230 08 51. QOpen 24hrs. Laptop login G-4, Chervonoarmiys’ka Vault 13 Computer Club Wi-Fi 19, ML’va Tolstoho. Internet 09:00 - 23:00 3Hr/h, 23:00 There are now a number of places in Kyiv which provide Wi-Fi - 09:00 2Hr/h, Fri, Sat 3 Hr/h. Consultation 12Hr/h. Printing, scanning. 60 PCs, intranet. QOpen 24hrs. connections to the Internet both for mobile telephones, PDAs with web browsers and laptops with Wi-Fi support. Look for the Wi-Fi symbol in our guide. The service is free at a few hotels Mobile phones and restaurants, but usually the connection costs around 10Hr There are 2 types of mobile phone numbers in Kyiv: direct per hour. To access paid Wi-Fi connections, buy a prepaid card numbers (which do not differ from the Kyiv fixed line numbers, (worth 10, 20, 24, or 50Hr, usually good for one month from and may be dialed as such), and mobile numbers (these the day of activation). You can buy the cards at the reception should be preceded by 0 and the operator’s code). SMS may stands in the hotels and at bars and restaurants. not be sent to direct numbers. Mobile phone calls in Ukraine are relatively cheap and very reliable. You do not need to sign 3G & 4G a contract or show your documents to use the local provider’s There are an increasing number of companies in Ukraine offer- service. SIM cards are available in special service centres, ing 3G & 4G service. You need to have a compatible telephone mobile phone stores and even on the streets. You can also or modem to connect to the Internet. SIM-cards can be found buy cards to refill your account at these same places. at any one of the service centres of companies mentioned in Mobile phones section above. The same service centres KyivStar GSM I-4, Ivana Mazepy 24, MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 466 04 66/466 24 66, www.kyivstar.net/en/. can also refill your account and help with setting up a con- nection to the Internet. Life E-6, Solom’yans’ka 11A, MVokzal’na, tel. (+380) 800 20 54 33, fax (+380) 44 463 70 56, http://life. com.ua.  The Kyiv MTS I-5, Leiptsyz’ka 15, MPechers’ka, tel. (+380) 44 240 00 00, www.mts.com.ua/eng. telephone code is +380 44 kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 48 Getting around

Universal Flights Sales Agency B-3, Zolotovorits’ka Airline ticket offices 13, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 206 75 76, www. Aeroflot G-3, Saksahans’koho 112A, MVokzal’na, tel. ufsa.com.ua. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. (+380) 44 241 99 98, fax (+380) 44 245 48 81, www. aeroflot.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Fri 09:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Airports Boryspil State International Airport , tel. (+380) 44 A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 9/2, office 7A, ML’va AeroSvit 281 72 43/(+380) 44 281 76 90, www.airport-borispol. Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 490 34 90, www.aerosvit.com. kiev.ua. Boryspil lies 34km east of the city. Buses and mini- QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 19:00. vans departing roughly every 30 minutes from in front of the Air Baltic A-3, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 52, MUniversytet, Southern Train Station make the trip in an hour or so for a tel. (+380) 44 238 26 49/238 26 68, fax (+380) 44 fare of 30Hr - but the schedule can be erratic. Taxis from the 238 62 71, www.airbaltic.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. centre cost about 150Hr and take from 30 to 45 minutes. Closed Sat, Sun. Inside the airport, a bar near passport control offers internet Alitalia – Compagnia Aerea Italiana S.p.A. A-5, I. access. Check-in is quick, giving you more than enough time Franko 34/33, 2nd floor, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) to visit the two bars and one duty-free shop in the cavernous 44 492 72 22/390 90 93, www.alitalia.com. QOpen departure lounge. 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Kyiv (Zhulyany) Airport Povitroflots’kyi prosp. 92, Austrian Airlines A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 9/2, ML’va tel. (+380) 44 242 23 08/(+380) 44 242 23 09, www. Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 289 20 32/289 20 33/289 airport.kiev.ua. Just 8km from Kyiv’s centre, Zhulyany can 20 34, fax (+380) 44 490 34 94, www.aua.com.ua. be reached by taxi for 40Hr in 20 minutes. Trolleybus N°9 will QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. take you there in 30-40 minutes from South Train Station. Extremely inconsistent shuttle buses run between Zhulyany British Airways A-3, B.Khmelnyts’koho 48B, 6th floor, and Boryspil with intervals from 30 minutes to two hours. M Universytet, tel. (+380) 44 585 50 50, fax (+380) QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. 44 585 50 51, www.ba.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Long-distance buses KLM A-3, Ivana Franka 34/33, 2nd floor, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 490 24 90, fax (+380) 44 495 Central Bus Station H-5, Moskovs’ka pl. 3, MDemiivs’ka, 24 06, www.klm.ua. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30, Sat 10:00 - tel. (+380) 44 525 57 74. Schedules for departure and arrival 15:00. Closed Sun. A are arranged by geographical direction and posted on columns. International destinations are listed opposite the café area. Lufthansa A-3, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 52, MUniversytet, Questions should be directed to windows 8 and 10 - just don’t tel. (+380) 44 490 38 00, fax (+380) 44 490 38 01, count on the answer being in English. Two private bus lines have www.lufthansa.com. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - offices inside the station: Autolux (www.autolux.ua) and Gunsel. 16:00. Closed Sun. A Their services to major Ukrainian cities offer air conditioning, Ukraine International Airlines B-3, Lysenka 4, comfortable seating and refreshments. All Autolux buses make MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 581 50 50, booking@ stops first at the central train and then bus stations, and also ps.kiev.ua, www.flyuia.com. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sun at Boryspil Airport. You may be better off leaving from a regional 08:00 - 18:00. bus station providing more extensive routes. Domestic flight schedule

From Kyiv To Kyiv Days Dep. Arr. City Days Dep. Arr. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:00 22:00 DNIPROPETROVS’K (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 6 - 19:00 20:00 1 2 3 4 5 - - 09:00 10:00 DNIPROPETROVS’K (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 - - 07:00 08:00 1 2 3 4 5 - - 13:00 14:00 DNIPROPETROVS’K (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 - - 11:00 12:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 - 07:00 08:20 DONETSK (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:20 10:45 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:30 22:40 DONETSK (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19:50 21:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:45 15:00 DONETSK (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:00 18:20 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:20 22:30 IVANO-FRANKIVS’K (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:40 07:45 1 2 3 4 5 - - 08:45 09:50 KHARKIV (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 - - 06:50 07:55 1 2 3 4 5 - 7 15:20 16:25 KHARKIV (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 - - 10:35 11:40 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:00 22:05 KHARKIV (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:00 19:05 1 2 3 4 5 - - 20:45 22:30 LUHANSK (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 - - 07:00 08:45 1 - 3 4 5 6 7 10:00 11:30 LVIV (AeroSvit) 1 - 3 4 5 6 7 16:00 17:30 1 - 3 4 5 6 7 15:05 16:40 LVIV (AeroSvit) 1 - 3 4 5 6 7 09:40 11:15 1 - 3 4 5 6 7 19:15 20:50 LVIV (AeroSvit) 1 - 3 4 5 6 7 17:45 19:05 1 - 3 4 5 6 7 19:50 21:20 LVIV (PS) 1 - 3 4 5 6 7 07:00 08:30 1 2 3 4 5 - - 07:50 09:00 ODESA (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:00 10:05 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:00 15:10 ODESA (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 - - 17:30 18:40 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:30 22:40 ODESA (PS) 1 2 3 4 5 6 - 19:30 20:40 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19:45 21:10 SIMFEROPOL (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:00 08:25 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:05 22:30 SIMFEROPOL (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:10 19:40 1 2 3 4 5 - 7 19:05 20:45 UZHGOROD (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 - - 06:30 08:10 1 2 3 4 5 - - 20:05 21:20 ZAPORIZHIYA (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 - - 07:20 08:35

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Getting around 49

Car rental Avis H-4, Yams’ka 72, MLybids’ka, tel. (+380) 44 502 20 10, fax (+380) 44 502 20 14, www.avis.com.ua/ en. Also at: Boryspil’ Airport, Terminal F, tel.: (+380) 44 591 70 09, [email protected]. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Budget H-3, Ivana Lepse 4, MBeresteis’ka, tel. (+380) 44 490 10 88, [email protected], www.budget.ua. Also at Boryspil airport , tel.: (+380) 44 591 69 87. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. A Europcar H-3, Gorkoho 48A, MOlimpiys’ka, tel. (+380) 44 238 26 91, fax (+380) 44 238 26 92, ua@europcar. relc.com, www.europcar.ua. Car and minivan rental. Chauf- feur service is available. Q A Hertz Rent a Car Zdolbunivs’ka 7D, MPozniaky, tel. (+380) 44 492 32 70, fax (+380) 44 492 32 73, www. hertz.ua/en. One-way rentals. Chauffeur available. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. A Sixt G-2, Dmytrievs’ka 46, MVokzal’na, tel. (+380) 44 490 81 58, www.sixt.ua. Minimal rental period - 24hrs. Q A Trains Central/Southern Train Station G-3, Vokzal’na pl. 1, MVokzal’na, tel. (+380) 44 465 21 11, www.uz.gov.ua. Large departure and arrival schedules are on the walls in both stations. More schedule and ticket information can be accessed using computers that look like ATMs in the main halls. Windows N°40 and 41 for foreigners and international trains are located in the southern station. Almost all trains contain three classes: SV, two-person compartments; coupe, four-person compartments; and platskart, harder beds and no compartments. Domestic train schedule International train schedule

From Kyiv City To Kyiv From Kyiv City To Kyiv Dep. Arr. Dep. Arr. Dep. Arr. Dep. Arr. 18:00 20:30 (1-7) CHERNIHIV (1-7) 17:24 20:20 17:36 22:37 ( 2,3,5,7) ASTANA (2,4,6,7) 11:15 09:52 18:36 09:44 (1-7) CHERNIVTSI (1-7) 16:44 08:04 06:20 22:30 (5) (1) 23:30 16:15 06:41 12:30 (1-7) DNIPROPETROVSK 17:45 23:34 08:00 07:30 (1-7) BERLIN (1-7) 21:13 22:52 (1-7) 23:58 05:24 (2,3,5-7) BRATISLAVA 13:47 20:00 17:15 23:00 (1-7) DNIPROPETROVSK 07:00 12:45 (1,2,4,5,7) (1-7) 09:53 09:47 (1-7) BUDAPEST (1-7) 18:15 20:00 19:21 07:10 (1-7) DONETSK (1-7) 19:25 07:01 15:40 19:13 (1-7) BUCHAREST (1-7) 06:38 09:29 17:30 23:20 (1-7) KHARKIV (1-7) 07:05 12:55 01:40 20:12 (1-7) CHISINAU (1-7) 11:50 02:04 22:25 23:20 (1-7) KHARKIV (1-7) 16:27 22:17 20:42 15:25 ( 1-7) KRAKOW (1-7) 13:05 10:21 21:44 10:15 (1-7) KHERSON (1-7) 20:30 09:21 18:18 06:01 (1-7) MINSK (1-7) 20:50 08:50 01:41 10:46 (1-7) KHMELNYTSKIY 11:44 19:48 14:35 05:33 (1-7) MOSCOW (1-7) 16:46 05:10 (1-7) 19:07 09:00 (1-7) MOSCOW (1-7) 20:23 07:47 17:04 23:29 (2-7) LVIV (1,3-7) 06:35 13:00 20:09 06:39 (1-7) MOSCOW (1-7) 23:23 08:80 22:15 06:32 (1-7) LVIV (1-7) 19:27 10:35 20:42 06:48 (1-7) PRAGUE (1-7) 21:24 10:21 16:20 09:25 (1-7) LUHANSK (1-7) 18:55 11:32 20:42 09:26 (1-7) PRZEMYSL (1-7) 16:53 10:21 19:03 05:55 (1-7) MYKOLAIV (1-7) 19:16 05:37 15:40 06:05 (1-7) SOFIA (1-7) 19:30 09:29 15:25 05:13 (1-7) ODESA (1-7) 18:42 06:48 09:35 10:44 (1-7) ST.-PETERSBURG 21:20 20:20 22:59 08:50 (1-7) ODESA (1-7) 23:00 07:37 (1-7) 17:51 08:45 (1-7) SIMFEROPOL (1-7) 16:26 07:41 13:10 07:00 (1-7) WARSAW (1-7) 21:04 14:40 12:52 06:16 (1-7) SEVASTOPOL (1-7) 13:24 07:08 20:42 20:27 (1-7) WROCLAW (1-7) 08:15 10:21 20:21 13:06 (1-7) SEVASTOPOL (1-7) 18:20 11:21 23:58 06:58 (2,3,5-7) VIENNA (1,2,4,5,7) 11:28 20:00 18:42 11:31 (1-7) UZHHOROD (1-7) 15:55 09:53 09:53 07:16 (7) VENICE (3) 21:27 20:00 20:27 06:42 (1-7) ZAPORIZHYA (1-7) 19:25 05:58 09:53 22:22 (4) ZAGREB (6) 07:20 20:00 kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 50 Public Transport Shopping

A plethora of mass transit options are available to get you around Kyiv. However, the existing trolleybuses (electric Funicular buses), trams (streetcars), buses, metro, microbuses and minivans are not enough to prevent frequent overcrowding. Since 1905, Kyiv’s funicular has Don’t take the jostling personally, don’t inhale too deeply but carried passengers between Podil, do give up your seat to the elderly and mothers with children. on the bank of the Dnipro, and the Public transport starts running around 05:45 and closes heights of Mykhailivs’ka ploscha. down a bit after midnight. It offers not only a means of get- ting from A to B, but also a rising The metro panoramic view of the Dnipro River The metro is the jewel of the Kyiv transport system. While traf- and the forested left bank. After fic snarls vehicles above ground, trains underground deliver perusing the art and souvenirs of passengers in a more timely and reliable fashion. Thought- Andrew’s Descent (Andriivs’kyi uzviz), you may forego provoking Soviet designs inside stations help pass the time “Andrew’s Ascent” and catch the funicular at Poshtova while waiting for the next train. Life isn’t perfect, though, and ploscha metro. You will be delivered just behind the neither is the metro. Personal space can become alarmingly spectacular St. Michael’s Cathedral. Fares are 1.50Hr for tight, especially during rush hour and at night when trains adults, and children under seven ride free. run less frequently. Kyivites like to grumble about the recent fare hikes, but fees are, in fact, dirt cheap relative to those ets are good for one journey only. 30 day pass for trolleys, in other European cities. Purchase your one way blue token trams and buses cost 160Hr. 30 day combo-pass for all for 2Hr from the expressionless booth attendant or from the types of surface transport can also be bought at kiosks automatic dispensers. Proceed to the row of gates, insert and go for 230Hr. your token and wait a second for the red light to turn green so the jaws of death don’t maim you. Monthly passes can be Microbuses and minivans purchased from all token booths and are good from the first of the month. Pass rates are as follows: 15 days - 48Hr, The privately-owned marshrutkas (маршрутки) or route 30 days - 95Hr. taxis (usually yellow) stop at bus stops along specified routes. Many run the same routes as trolleys or buses and use the same numbers. Otherwise, try to read the main Trolleybuses, trams and buses stops posted on the vehicle’s windshield or side window These are favoured by schoolchildren, the working class and before it speeds by. Marshrutkas will definitely get you from babushkas and dedushkas. They won’t get you anywhere in A to B faster than other forms of municipal transport, as they a hurry, but they do provide an intriguing look into everyday are smaller and more manoeuvrable; an important feature Ukrainian life. Single tickets for trolleys, trams and buses on Kyiv’s jammed roads. Just flag it down as you would a can be purchased for 1.50Hr from street kiosks or from taxi, then tell the driver “na zupyntsi, budlaska” (“on the conductors and the driver on board. You should immediately stop, please”) when you’ve had enough. Fares are paid as validate your ticket using one of the many punching gadgets you board and currently range from 2 to 3Hr, but are likely around you. If not, you risk being intimidated into paying a to increase. You don’t have to punch your ticket and there 40Hr fine by not one but two roaming inspectors. All tick- are no monthly passes available. M

Heroiv Dnipra Героїв Дніпра

Mins’ka Мінська

Obolon Syrets Оболонь Сирець Petrivka Dorohozhychy Петрівка Tarasa Shevchenka Дорогожичі Тараса Шевченка Luk’yanivs’ka Kontraktova Ploscha Лук’янівська Контрактова площа Akademmistechko Лісова Академмістечко Poshtova Ploscha Beresteis’ka Поштова Площа Chernihivs’ka Золоті Ворота Khreschatyk Нивки Берестейська Хрещатик Maidan Nezalezhnosti Чернігівська Shuliavs’ka Zoloti Vorota Майдан Незалежності Дарниця Шулявська Teatral’na Arsenal’na Universytet Арсенальна Livoberezhna Університет Лівобережна Zhytomyrs’ka Святошин Житомирська Palats Sportu L’va Tolstoho Гідропарк Льва Толстого Dnipro Chervonyi Khutir Politekhnichnyi Instytut Палац спорту Дніпро Політехнічний інститут Vokzal’na Червоний Хутір Вокзальна Klovs’ka Кловська Olympiis’ka Boryspil’s’ka Олімпійська Pechers’ka Бориспільська Печерська Sviatoshyns’ko - Brovars’ka line Palats Ukraina Vyrlytsia Палац Україна Druzhby Narodiv Вирлиця Kurenivs’ko - Chervonoarmiys’ka line Lybids’ka Дружби народів Либідська Syrets’ko - Pechers’ka line Kharkivs’ka Харківська Видубичі Transfer station Demiivs’ka Позняки Деміївська Vasyl’kivs’ka Slavutych Осокорки Holosiivs’ka Васильківська Славутич Голосіївська Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Public Transport Shopping 51

Shopping malls Bil‘shovyk E-2, Vadyma Hetmana 6, MShuliavs‘ka, tel. (+380) 44 200 07 54, www.trc-bolshevik.com. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. PAULW Dream Town N-2, Obolonskiy prosp. 1B, MObolon, Min- ska, tel. (+380) 44 428 36 11, www.dreamtown.kiev.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PAUL Globus C-4, Maidan Nezalezhnosti (Underground), MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 590 18 93/590 18 96, www.globus.com.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Metrograd B-5, Bessarabs‘ka ploscha (underground), ML‘va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 247 56 65, www.metro- grad.com. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Sky Mall E-2, Henerala Vatutina 2T, MPetrivka, tel. (+380) 44 371 41 30, www.skymall.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PAUL Antiques Antique Centre D-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 3, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 425 12 37. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Antiques Salon H-3, Gorkoho 11, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 287 37 58. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Belle Epoque C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 34, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 278 39 55. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Gelos D-3, Sahaidachnoho 14, MPoshtova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 531 99 27. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Fashion Atelier 1 A-4, Shevchenka bul’v. 10 (entrance from the yard), tel. (+380) 44 288 05 50/599 31 80, art@atelier1. com.ua. The only truly concept store in Ukraine based at the former cold war bunker right at the heart of Kyiv. Atelier 1’s selling the most conceptual collections of menswear and womenswear from Japan and France (Comme des Garcons, Junya Watanabe, Peachoo and Krejberg, Comme des Garcons Parfums. Acces- sories, Bags) and Ukrainian Designers international collections. The Shop is divided into zones: collection rooms, Boiler room, Parfum Vault and Strong room. New format of Canteen is avail- able. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. PA6LW Food & Drink Furshet B-5, Baseina 4, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 230 95 21. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Also at: G-1, Yaroslavs’ka 57, tel. 417 03 50. Open 24 hrs. L-2, Lunachars’koho 22, tel. 593 27 80. Open 09:00 -23:00. E-4, Starovokzal’na 23, tel. 234 57 42. Open 07:00 - 23:00. G-6, Gorkoho 165, tel. 521 16 20. Open 00:00 - 24:00. Megamarket H-4, Gorkoho 50, MOlimpiys’ka, tel. (+380) 44 248 73 87. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00. Also at: N-5, Moskovs‘kyi prospect 6, open 09:00 - 24:00; F-3, Surikova 3, open 09:00 - 23:00. A Kids Antoshka I-4, Lesi Ukrainky bul‘v. 19/16, MPechers‘ka, tel. (+380) 44 286 26 21. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A Daniel C-5, Myzeinyi prov. 2B, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 69 00. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. A Kazka Nova H-3, Chervonoarmyis‘ka 54, MOlimpiys’ka, tel. (+380) 44 287 27 02. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A Lapin House A-5, H-3, Shota Rustaveli 34, MPalats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 246 68 16. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 52 Lifestyle directory

The IB World School in Kyiv

PECHERSK SCHOOL INTERNATIONAL, KYIV www.psi.kiev.ua 7a, Victora Zabily Str. Tel: (+38044) 455-9585 Fax: (+38044) 455-9580 [email protected]

and TORCh infections (PCR detection method). Complex 24-hours Pharmacies diagnostic programmes (therapy, cardiology, gastroenterol- ogy, immunology and allergology). QOpen 24hrs, Sat 08:00 Apteka #24 A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 10, ML’va Tol- - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00. A stoho, tel. (+380) 44 235 43 08. Dobrobut G-1, Pymonenka 10, MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. Bosm Pharm A-3, T.Shevchenka bul’v. 17, MUniver- (+380) 44 495 28 88/(+380) 44 495 28 88, www. sytet, tel. (+380) 44 235 50 17. med.dobrobut.com. Emergency services, consultations Falbi D-1, Mezhyhirs’ka 3/7, MKontraktova Ploscha, for adults and children, in-patient unit, diagnostics, medical tel. (+380) 44 425 00 40. assistance and transportation of patients within Kyiv, Ukraine and abroad. Also at ’ka 2E; Povitroflots’kyi prosp. 38; Beauty salons prosp. Komarova 3, corp. 5. QOpen 24hrs. Dessange B-4, Volodymyrs’ka 49A, MZoloti Vorota, tel. Laboratory Dr. Roedger I-4, Staronavodnyts’ka 13 (+380) 44 569 60 00, www.dessange.com.ua. Also at section A, office 48, MPechers’ka, tel. (+380) 44 569 C-3, Hyatt Regency Hotel, tel. (+380) 44 537 63 00. QOpen 28 28, [email protected]. Offers a full range of labora- 08:00 - 21:00. A tory analyses. Samples are sent twice a week to Berlin in Germany for processing. They will give you a full run-down Diva Health & Beauty Centre A-3, B.Khmel’nytskoho of your clinical health. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 53/53, Opera Hotel, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 492 15:00. Closed Sun. 74 92, www.opera-hotel.com. SPA Naturel C-3, Tarasovoi 5A, Hyatt Regency Kyiv Dentists Hotel, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 581 12 Avanto D-1, Kostiantynivs’ka 22/17A, MKontraktova 40, www.kiev.regency.hyatt.com. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 531 37 97, www.avanto.com. ua. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Clinics & Hospitals MedLife Elite F-1, Yakira 10A, MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. American Medical Centre F-1, Berdychivs’ka 1, (+380) 44 238 66 26. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 490 76 00, www. amcenters.com. Individual, family and corporate medical MedLife Lux O-2, Heroiv Stalingrada 20, MMins’ka, tel. plans. Children’s health. Women health. 24hrs emergency (+380) 44 412 21 23. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. visit, hospitalisation or evacuation abroad. QOpen 24hrs. Prisma D-3, Sahaidachnoho 25, MPoshtova Ploscha, CMD G-1, Pymonenka 10A, MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. (+380) tel. (+380) 44 425 14 04. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. 44 239 12 23, www.cmd.kiev.ua. A full spectrum of labo- ratory tests with results within 24hrs. Urologist, andrologist, sexopathologist. Gynaecologist, gynaecologist-endocri- Dry cleaners & laundries nologist. Molecular. diagnostics of all sexually transmitted Alberti Angelo A-5, Lva Tolstoho 6, MLva Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 50 702 59 66. Also at: Basseina 3, tel. (+380) 67 235 87 92; B.Khmelnytskoho 68, tel. (+380) 44 234 62 39. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. UnMomento B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 16B, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 238 21 93. Also at: C-3, Desiatynna 13, tel. (+380) 67 657 07 11; A-5, Shota Rustaveli 4, tel. (+380) 44 234 21 93; A-3, I.Franko 24A, tel. (+380) 44 234 61 05. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Swiss Dry Cleaner Cinderella I-5, Mala Zhytomyrs’ka 5, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 20 96. Also at: D-1, Schekavyts’ka 9A, tel. (+380) 44 417 14 33; A-1, Turgenivs’ka 80, tel. (+380) 44 486 88 91. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Lifestyle directory 53

Opticians Centre of the ophtalmology and aestetic medi- cine AILAS Bazhana prosp. 12A, MOsokorky, tel./fax (+380) 44 291 01 91, www.ailas.com.ua. In this clinic you will find the latest laser technology and modern methods of treatment are used in this centre of ophthalmologic and aes- thetic medicine. Patients are provided with a wide spectrum of solutions, from therapy to laser surgery, to improve their quality of life. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Language courses Echo Eastern Europe J-4, Lesi Ukrainky bul‘v. 29, MPechers‘ka, tel. (+380) 44 361 86 50/(+380) 68 707 48 47, www.echoee.com. Russian and Ukrainian. One- to-one and group classes with professional tutors. Flexible approach. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. English language centre I-4, Kutuzova 4A, MPechers‘ka, tel. (+380) 44 581 19 89, www.elckiev. org. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Monarch International Language Academy Tol- More than 20 kinds of massages bukhina 45, MNyvky, tel. (+380) 44 451 78 39, www. monarchila.kiev.ua. Lessons and courses in Russian, and SPA treatments Ukrainian, English, German and French. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. High-quali ed masseurs Novamova B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 14V, office 28, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 234 12 70/(+380) 44 237 from Bangkok, ailand 77 50, www.learnrussiankiev.com. One of the top the Russian-language training institutes. NovaMova provides conversational practice, guest speaker lectures, Russian Relax atmosphere movie club, field trips and various sightseeing tours QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. PA Discount programs and club cards Massage Kinari Oriental SPA A-3, Ivana Franka 40, MUniver- sytet, tel. (+380) 44 234 53 40/(+380) 93 620 60 Gi certi cates 40, www.kinari-spa.com.ua.Just what Kyiv’s city centre needed: traditional Thai massage and oriental SPA treat- ments. Qualified therapists are on hand to heal both body and soul and help put a bit of calming balance back into your hectic life. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Swedish Massage tel. (+380) 44 816 26 38, www. pleasure-massage.com. Swedish massage centre offers relaxing classical massage services. QOpen 24hrs. International schools Collège Français Anne de Kiev A-3, Chapaieva 21, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 200 19 93, fax (+380) 44 200 19 97, secretariat-kiev@[email protected], www. adk.org.ua. Primary and secondary school (3-17 years). French cirriculum. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Pechersk School International Zabily 7A, MLybids’ka, tel. (+380) 44 455 95 85, www.psi. kiev.ua. The British International School (Primary) Scherba- kova 36A, MNyvky, tel. (+380) 44 400 20 77, primary@ bisk.kiev,ua, www.britishschool.kiev.ua. The British International School (Secondary) Tol- bukhina 45, MNyvky, tel. (+380) 44 400 21 10, recep- [email protected], www.britishschool.kiev.ua.

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 54 RestauBusinessrants directory

We speak French! Interpreter, Advisor, Guide,

assistance in ukraine Business representative www.assist-ukr.com skype: assist-ukr +38 (050) 381 14 13 Accountants & Consulting Accounting Solutions C-6, Instytuts’ka 19B, office 29, MKhreshatyk, tel. (+380) 44 362 58 00/(+380) 44 581 12 20, fax (+380) 44 581 12 22, info@acsoinua. com, www.acsoinua.com. Apple Consulting A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 9/2, office National Bank of Ukraine 8, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 495 27 28, fax (+380) 44 495 27 70, www.applecons.com.ua. Deloitte & Touche H-3, Zhylians’ka 48-50A, Deloitte Business connections Business centre, MOlimpiys’ka, tel. (+380) 44 490 90 American Chamber of Commerce in Ukraine H-4, 00, fax (+380) 44 490 90 01, www.deloitte.com.ua. Amosova 12, MPalats Ukraina, tel. (+380) 44 490 58 00, fax (+380) 44 490 58 01, www.chamber.ua. Grant Thornton F-1, Dehtiarivs’ka 4A, MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 230 47 78, fax (+380) 44 230 48 40, British Ukrainian Chamber of Commerce (BUCC) www.gtukraine.com. C-4, M.Hrushevs’koho 34A, suite 42, MArsenal’na, tel. Ernst & Young B-4, Khreschatyk 19A, MKhreschatyk, (+380) 44 410 57 20, fax (+380) 44 230 21 51, admin- tel. (+380) 44 490 30 00, fax (+380) 44 490 30 30, strator@bucc. com.ua, www.bucc.com.ua. www.ey.com/ua. Chief Department of Foreign Economic Relations KPMG C-3, Mykhailivs’ka 11, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, and Investments B-4, Khreschatyk 44, MKhres- tel. (+380) 490 55 07, fax (+380) 490 55 08, www. chatyk, tel./fax (+380) 44 278 18 71. kpmg.kiev.ua. European Business Association (EBA) D-2, PricewaterhouseCoopers G-3, Zhylians’ka 75, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 1A, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. MVokzal’na, tel. (+380) 44 490 67 77, fax (+380) 44 (+380) 44 496 06 01, fax (+380) 44 496 06 02, office@ 490 67 38, www.pwc.com. eba.com.ua, www.eba.com.ua. General Direction of Attendance to Foreign Rep- Banks resentatives B-3, Strilets’ka 14, MZoloti Vorota, tel. OTP Bank A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 9/2, ML’va Tol- (+380) 44 482 01 90, fax (+380) 44 482 36 93, www. stoho, tel. (+380) 800 300 0 50, www.otpbank.com. gdip.com.ua. ua/enb. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Raiffeisen Bank Aval C-4, Khreschatyk 16, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 08 71, [email protected], Lawyers www.aval.ua/en. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Gvozdiy & Oberkovych C-5, Instytutska 19B, office Lunch time 13:00 - 14:00. 29, MKhreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 581 12 20/(+380) 44 581 12 21, fax (+380) 44 581 12 22, info@golaw. M SEB Bank A-5, H-3, Chervonoarmiis’ka 10, L’va Tol- ua, www.golaw.ua. stoho, tel. (+380) 44 238 67 67, www.seb.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. CMS Reich-Rohrwig Hainz C-5, Instytutska 19B, 5th floor, MKhreshatyk, tel. (+380) 44 503 35 46, fax €1 = 10.70Hr; US$1 = 7.99Hr; £1 = 12.49Hr (+380) 44 503 35 49, www.cms-rrh.com. (5 December 2011 official rates)

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Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants Adult entertainment 55

Gentleman’s Clubs Tsvetochnyi Nosorog strip-club Dniprovska Na- M Marilyn A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 32A, ML’va Tolstoho, berezhna, 7, Livoberezhna, tel. (+380) 44 490 54 tel. (+380) 44 240 76 68. Show bar Marilyn is situated in 44, www.nosorog.com.ua. Located on the left bank of the basement of the beerhouse Talgen. It offers a non-stop the Dnipro River, Tsvetochnyi Nosorog is easy reachable by programme of erotic shows featuring beautiful dancers. minivans from Livoberezhna metro station. A cosy venue with Private shows and VIP-rooms are also available. Admission 7 VIP-rooms. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Admission: 100Hr for PALS 40Hr. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. PAULGS men, 150Hr for women. Miatniy Nosorog Strip bar H-4, Chervonoarmiys’ka Zvezdnyi Nosorog on Podil H-1, Verhniy Val 66/7, 111/113, MPalats Ukraina, tel. (+380) 44 529 20 00, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 490 71 17, www.nosorog.com.ua. A cosy little place that hosts as many www.nosorog.com.ua. Recently opened and we may as 40 people. There are 8 private tables, Indian décor with say - the biggest gentlemen club in Kyiv. To reach the place plastered illustrations from Kamasutra, a bar and European follow from Kontraktova Ploscha metro station towards cuisine. Beer costs 20-25Hr. Main dishes are around 60Hr. Dnipro river. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Admission: 100Hr for Also at Artema 37/41, tel. (+380) 44 529 20 00.QOpen men, 150Hr for women. 20:00 - 06:00. Admission: 100Hr for men, 150Hr for women. Zolotoy Nosorog A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 5, 3rd Paradise Cabaret A-5, T.Shevchenka bul’v./ floor, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 496 37 47, www. Pushkins’ka 5-7/29, MTeatral’na, tel. (+380) 44 537 nosorog.com.ua. A part of Nosorog strip clubs chain Zolo- 45 32, www.paradise-cabaret.com.ua. Located on the toy occupied the 3rd floor of the most luxurious Arena City fifth floor of Premier Palace Hotel this club keeps the great- entertainment centre. The club can accommodate 65 guests est traditions of Parisian cabaret. Luxurious red velvet with and has 7 private rooms. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Admission: gold and crystal interior will surely make you fill yourself in 100Hr for men, 150Hr for women. Paradise, so you should just relax and enjoy women’s beauty. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Admission: 150Hr for men, 200Hr for women. PALS inyourpocket.com Solid Gold B-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 5, 2nd floor, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 494 09 14, www.solidgold. ua. Recently opened gentleman club offers it’s visitors cosy, twitter.com/inyourpocket stylish interior and amazing shows. Except for the main hall, a club offers guests a VIP lounge and Chill out zone. Solid Gold is located on the 2nd floor of Arena Entertainment Com- facebook.com/inyourpocket plex. Reserve a table in advance, especially on weekends. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Admission: 150Hr for men, 200Hr for youtube.com/inyourpocket women. PALS

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 56 Adult entertainment

Gay Kyiv Lilit tel. (+380) 44 228 87 28, www.lilit.kiev.ua. Un- Androgyn Harmatna 26/2, MShuliavs‘ka, tel. (+380) forgattable massage from beautiful ladies. You can either 44 496 19 83, www.gay-club.com.ua. The city‘s first gay visit massage salon in the city centre or order massage at night-spot underwent remodeling and got a new name in your place. QOpen 24hrs. the process. The Soviet-style exterior is now a far cry from Lily MOlimpiys’ka, tel. (+380) 67 525 16 99. The pretty its ultra-hip interior. Androgyn‘s distinguishing features are girls - professionals in erotic massage will meet you in this intimate dark rooms. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, salon and make you stay full of pleasure. QOpen 24hrs. Tue, Wed. Admission Thu, Sun 20Hr for men, 50Hr for women, Rakuena B-5, Kruglouniversytets’ka 4B, MKhres- Fri 60Hr/100Hr, Sat 80Hr/100Hr. PA chatyk, tel. (+380) 44 568 29 47, www.rakuena.com. Cyber café B-4, Prorizna 21, MKhreschatyk, tel. The tender hands of Rakuena’s charming girls and boys (+380) 44 278 05 48. This café has three halls: disco, promise to release you from muscular and nervous strain, hookah and a restaurant. The menu offers reasonably priced recover your strength, and give you a feeling of bliss and joy European cuisine. Music is presented in European radio for- of life. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. mat. A “travesty show”, and a men and women strip show are Roksolana tel. (+380) 44 227 95 10/(+380) 67 833 just a couple of this café‘s highlights. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. 33 66/(+380) 63 144 11 10, www.roksolana-massage. Mon-Tue 20Hr for men, 30Hr for women, Wed-Thu 30Hr/40Hr, com.ua. Proffesionals in erotic massage will make your stay Fri-Sun - 50Hr/70Hr. PA full of pleasure. QOpen 24hrs. Pomada (Lipstick) B-4, Zan‘kovets‘koi 6, MKhres- chatyk, tel. (+380) 44 279 55 52. This is an élite club for people with non-traditional orientation that offers parties, concerts, and a disco with popular DJs. During the day it is a restaurant that offers European cuisine. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00, Fri 18:00 - 08:00. PAL Massage Body massage tel. (+380) 93 770 33 22. The beautiful and professional masseurs help you to relax and enjoy the art of erotic massage. Open round-the-clock and is available at your place.QOpen 24 hrs. Chocolate tel. (+380) 96 545 34 44/(+380) 63 233 00 67/(+380) 44 233 00 67, www.chocolate- studio.com.ua. Beautiful professional girls giving erotic Thai and the parlours own brand of chocolate massage. QOpen 24 hrs. Cleo Relax Studio tel. (+380) 44 362 82 06/(+380) 98 840 95 48. Cleo Studio offers all kinds of massages, including aroma spa, sport, Thai and Japanese massages. QOpen 24 hrs. Euphoria tel. (+380) 98 042 42 09. Proffesionals in erot- ic massage will make your stay full of pleasure. The salon’s policy implies massage without intimacy. QOpen 24hrs. Imperia B-2, Vorovs’koho 1, tel. (+380) 44 237 07 71/ (+380) 50 383 54 85, www.imperia-mas.kiev.ua. This massage salon promises a world of physical relaxation and all the enjoyment your erotic imagination can muster. The talanted masseuses grant you harmony of soul and body 24hrs. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com

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Akademika Bohomol’tsia Hertsena F-1 Lyvars’ka L-4 Panasa Myrnoho I-3, J-4 Stadionnyi prov. F/G-3 B/C-6, I-3 Hlazunova I-5 M. Pryimachenko bul’v. Panfilovtsiv J-4 Stara Poliana G-1 Akademika Filatova I-5 Hlibova G-2 I-4/5, J-4 Panfilovtsiv prov. J-4 Starokyivs’ka F-2 Akademika Karpyns’koho E-4 Hlybochyts’ka B/C-1, G/H-1 Maiborody F-1 Parkova doroha D-5/6, I-2, J-2/3 Staronavodnyts’ka I/J-4 Akademika Yanhelia E-2 Hlybochyts’kyi proizd G-1 Maidan Nezalezhnosti C-4, I-2 Patrisa Lumumby I-4/5 Starovokzal’na G-2/3 Aleia Heroiv Krut J-3 Hoholivs’ka A-1/2, G-2 Makarivs’ka L-5/6 Pavla Pestelia G-2/3 Strilets’ka B-3, H-2 Aliabieva M-5 Honcharna C-2, H-1/2 Maksyma Kryvonosa F-4 Pavlivs’ka G-2 Students’ka G-1 Andriia Holovka F-4/5 Horodnia G-4 Mala Zhytomyrs’ka Pecheniz’ka G-1 Surykova F-3 Andriivs’ka D-2/3, H/I-1 Hospital’na A-6, I-3 C-3/4, H-2 Pechers’ka pl. I-4 Suvorova J-3 Andriivs’kyi uzviz C/D-2, H-1 Hospital’nyi prov. A-6, I-3 Malopidval’na B-3/4, H-2 Pechers’kyi uzviz I-3 Symona Petliury G-3 Anri Barbiusa H-4, I-4/5 Hryhoriia Andriuschenka F/G-2 Marka Vovchka L-3 Peremohy pl. G-2 Tarasa Shevchenka bul’v Antonova E/F-4 Huchnyi prov. F-4 Marshala Malynovs’koho Peremohy prosp. E/G-2 A-3/5, G-2, H-3 Anyschenka J-3 Husovs’koho I-3/4 M-2, M/N-3, O-2 Perspektyvna I-4 Tarasivs’ka H-3 Arkhitektors’ka F-5 Illi Erenburha G/H-3 Marshala Rybalka F/G-2 Pervomais’koho B-6, I-3 Tatars’ka G-1 Arsenal’na I-4 Illins’ka D-2, H/I-1 Marshala Tymoshenka Petra Dehtiarenka L-1/3 Tel’mana H-4 Arsenal’na pl. J-3 Instytuts’ka C-4/6, I-2/3 M-2, N-1/2 Petra Kryvonosa pl. G-3 Ter’okhina L-5 Artema A-1, B-1/2, G-1, G/H-2 Isaakiana F-2 Martyrosiana E-3/4 Petra Nischyns’koho F-3 Tereschenkivs’ka A-4, H-3 Bahhovutivs’ka F/G-1, L-6 Iskrivs’ka E-3 Mate Zalky O-3/4 Petrivs’ka B-1, H-1 Tolstoho L’va pl. A-5, H-3 Baikova H-5 Ivana Fedorova H-4 Matrosova I-5 Petrivs’ka aleia C/D-4, I-2 Topoleva F-3 Bankova B/C-5, I-2/3 Ivana Franka A/B-3, H-2/3 Mechnykova B-6, I-3 Petrovs’koho E-3 Tovarna I-5 Baseina A/B-5, H/I-3 Ivana Franka pl. B/C-5, I-2 Mekhanizatoriv F/G-4 Pidhirna G-1 Tr’okhsviatytel’s’ka Bastionna J-5 Ivana Honty E-1 Mel’nykova F/G-1 Pidvysots’koho I/J-5 C-3/4, H/I-2 Bekhterevs’kyi prov. A-1,G-1/2 Ivana Klymenka F-4 Mendelieieva I-5 Piters’ka E-3 Travneva G-5 Berdychivs’ka F-1 Ivana Kudri I-4/5 Metalistiv E-2 Platonivs’ka F/G-3 Trukhanivs’ka I/J-1 Bessarabs’ka pl. B-5, H-3 Ivana Mazepy J-3/4 Mezhyhirs’ka D-1/2, H-1, N-6 Pochainyns’ka H/I-1, O-6 Tsytadel’na J-3/4 Bilokur J-5 Iziums’ka H-5 Michurina J-4/5 Podil’s’kyi uzviz L-5/6 Tul’chyns’ka L-5 Bilorus’ka F-1 Kadets’kyi Hai F-5 Mins’ka pl. N-2/3 Pokrovs’ka D-2, H-1 Tul’s’ka pl. N-4 Bohatyrs’ka M-1/4, N-4 Kavkaz’ka F-3/4 Mitskevycha E-3 Pol’ova E-2/3 Turgenevs’ka A-1 Bohdana Khmel’nyts’koho Kerchens’ka E-4 Moldavs’ka G-1 Pol’ovyi prov. E-2 Turivs’ka N/O-6 A-2/4, B-4, G/H-2, H-3 Khoryva D-1, H-1 Molodohvardiis’ka E-4 Poliarna L/M-1 Tvers’ka I-4, H-5 Bohdanivs’ka F-3 Khreschatyk Montazhnykiv G/H-5 Politekhnichna E/F-2 Tvers’kyi tupyk I-4 Bohuslavs’kyi uzviz M-6 B-4/5, C-4, H-3, H/I-2 Moskovs’ka J-3 Politekhnichnyi prov. F-2 Tykha I-5 Borschahivs’ka E/F-2 Khvoiky M-5 Moskovs’ka pl. H-5 Polovets’ka G-1 Tymiriazievs’ka J-5 Borychiv Tik D-2/3, H/I-1 Kikvidze J-5 Moskovs’kyi prosp. L/O-4 Poltavs’ka G-2 Tymofiia Shamryla E-1 Borychiv uzviz D-3, I-1 Kirovohrads’ka G/H-5 Murashka F/G-1 Polzunova G-3 Umans’ka E/F-3 Botkina F-2 Kirovohrads’kyi prov. H-5 Muzeinyi prov. C-4/5, I-2 Poshtova pl. D-3, I-1 Universytets’ka F-4/5, G-5 Bozhenka H-4/5 Klinichna G-5 Mykhaila Hrushevs’koho Povitroflots’kyi prosp. Uryts’koho F/G-3 Bozhkiv Yar G-5 Klovs’kyi uzviz C-6, I/J-3 C-4/6, D-6, I-2, I/J-3 F-2/4, E-4/5 Ushyns’koho E-3/4 Brats’ka D-2/3, H/I-1 Kmytiv Yar G-1 Mykhaila Myshyna E-4 Predslavyns’ka H-4, I-5 Vadyma Het’mana E-2/3 Brest-Lytovs’kyi prov. F-2 Komandarma Kamenieva J-4 Mykhaila Zadniprovs’koho I-4 Profinternu H-5 Vandy Vasylevs’koi F-2 Brians’ka F-4 Konduktors’ka G-4 Mykhailivs’ka pl. C-3, H-2 Prorizna B-4, H-2 Vasylia Yana H-3 Brovars’kyi prosp. K-2/3 Kontraktova pl. D-2, H-1 Mykhailivs’kyi prov. Protasiv Yar G/H-4 Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka Buslivs’ka J-5 Kopernyka F/G-1, F-2 B-3/4, C-3, H-2 Providnyts’ka G-3/4 B-2, C-3, H-2 Chapaieva A-3, H-2 Kopylivs’ka L-5 Mykoly Amosova G/H-4 Pryozerna O-4 Verbova L-3/4, M-4/5, N-5 Chekhovs’kyi prov. A-2, G/H-2 Korabel’na M-5 Mykoly Hrinchenka H-4/5 Pryrichna O-1 Verkhn’okliuchova E-3 Chervonoarmiis’ka H-3/5, I-5 Korolenkivs’ka H-3/4 Mykoly Kravchenka Pryvitna G-4 Verkhnia J-4 Chervonozorianyi prosp. Kosmonavtiv pl. E-3 F/G-2, G-1 Przheval’s’koho F/G-5 Verkhnii prov. J-4 E/F-4, F/H-5 Kosohirnyi prov. B-1, G-1 Mykoly Ostrovs’koho G-3 Pskovs’ka H-5 Verkhnii Val C/D-1, H-1 Chervonyi prov. F/G-5 Kost’ol’na C-4, I-2 Mykoly Pymonenka Puhachova L-6 Viacheslava Chornovola G-2 Ches’ka I-5 Kostia Hordiienka prov. A-1, G-1/2 Puliuia F-5 Vietrova G-3 Chokolivs’kyi E-3/4 B/C-6, I-3 Mykoly Raievs’koho I-4/5 Pushkins’ka A-5, A/C-4, H-2/3 Vikentiia L/M-5 Chornohirs’ka I-5 Kostiantynivs’ka Myl’nyi prov. M/N-6 Pylypa Kozyts’koho F-3 Viktora Yarmoly F-2 Chornomors’ka M/N-5 D-1/2, H-1, N-6 Naberezhne shose Pylypa Orlyka C-5/6, I-3 Vil’shans’ka J-5 Darvina B-5, I-3 Kotsiubyns’koho A-2/3, H-2 D-3/6, I-2, J-2/3, K-4 Pyriatyns’ka J-4 Vil’shans’kyi prov. J-5 Dashavs’ka E-2/3 Koval’s’kyi prov. E-2 Naberezhno-Khreschatyts’ka Redutna J-4 Vinnyts’ka E-4/5 Dehtiarivs’ka E/F-1 Kovpaka H/I-5 D-3, I-1 Redutnyi prov. J-4 Vokzal’na pl. G-3 Dehtiarna B/C-2, H-1/2 Kozhumiats’ka C-1/2, H-1 Naberezhno-Luhova N/O-6 Riznyts’ka I/J-3 Volhohrads’ka G-4 Delehats’kyi prov. L-6 Koziatyns’ka J-4 Naberezhno-Pechers’ka K-4/5 Rybal’s’ka I/J-3 Volodymyro-Lybids’ka H-4 Desiatynna C-3, H-2 Krasnodons’ka G-3/4 Naddniprians’ke shose K-4/5 Rybna F-5 Volodymyrs’ka Dmytrivs’ka G-2, L-5 Kropyvnyts’koho B-5, I-3 Nahirna L/M-6 Sadova C-5, I-2 A-4, B-3/4, C-3, H-2/3 Dniprovs’kyi uzviz J-3 Kruhlouniversytets’ka B-5, I-3 Nahirnyi prov. L-6 Sahaidachnoho D-2/3, H/I-1 Volodymyrs’kyi Proizd C-3, H-2 Dobrosusids’ka F/G-5 Krutohirna F/G-5 Nakhimova M-5/6 Saksahans’koho G-2, G/H-3 Volodymyrs’kyi uzviz Dobrynyns’ka L/M-3 Kudriashova G-3/4 Narodna G-4/5, F-5 Sant’iaho-de-Chili pl. O-2 C-4, D-3/4, I-2 Dokuchaievs’ka G-4 Kudriavs’kyi uzviz B-1, G-1/2 Narodnoho Opolchennia E-4/5 Saperne Pole I-4/5 Volos’ka D-1/2, H/I-1, O-6 Donets’ka E-4 Kupians’ka G-5 Narodnyi prov. G-4 Schekavyts’ka D-1, H-1 Volyns’ka E-3/4 Dorohozhyts’ka E-1 Kurenivs’ka L-4, M-3/4 Nechuia-Levyts’koho G-5 Schorsa H/I-4 Volz’ka H-5 Dovnar-Zapol’s’koho F-1/2 Kurs’ka F-3 Nemyrovycha-Danchenka I-4 Schorsa prov. I-4 Vorovs’koho A/B-2, G/H-2 Dovzhenka E-1/2 Kutuzova I/J-4 Nesterova E-1/2 Semena Skliarenka L-4 Vozdvyzhens’ka C-1/2, H-1 Druzhby Narodiv bul’v. Kyrylo-Mefodiivs’ka F-2 Nimans’ka I/J-5 Semenivs’ka G-4/5 Vrubelivs’kyi uzviz L-6 H/J-5, J/K-4 L’va Tolstoho A-4/5, G/H-3 Novokostiantynivs’ka M-5/6 Serhiia Strutyns’koho J-4/5 Vvedens’ka H-1 Druzhby Narodiv pl. N-3 L’vivs’ka pl. B-2, H-2 Novopechers’kyi prov. I-4, H/I-4 Sevastopol’s’ka pl. E-4 Vyborz’ka E-2 Druzhnia G-3/4 Laboratorna H-4 Novovokzal’na G-4 Sholudenka F-2 Yakira F-1 Dubens’ka J-5 Laboratornyi prov. H/I-4 Nyzhn’oyurkivs’ka G/H-1 Shota Rustaveli A-5, H-3 Yams’ka H-4 Dymytrova H-4 Laiosha Havro N-3, O-3/4 Nyzhn’okliuchova E-3 Shovkovychna B/C-5, I-2/3 Yanky Kupaly E-4 Dzerzhyns’koho pl. I-5 Lavrs’kyi prov. J-3 Nyzhnii Val C/D-1, H-1 Shuliavs’ka F-2 Yaroslava Halana E-3 Elektrykiv N/O-5 Lebedieva-Kumacha E-3 Obolons’ka H-1, O-6 Shyshkins’kyi prov. L/M-6 Yaroslaviv Val B-2/3, H-2 Elektrykiv prov. N-6, O-5 Leiptsyz’ka J-3/4 Obolons’ka naberezhna O-1/3 Sichnevyi prov. J-3 Yaroslavs’ka D-1, H-1 Emsta E-5 Lesi Ukrainky bul’v. Obolons’kyi prosp. N-1/5 Simii Khokhlovykh E/F-1 Yerevans’ka E/F-3 Esplanadna A-5, H-3 A-6, I-3/4, J-4 Observatorna A/B-2, G/H-2 Skovorody D-2, H/I-1 Yevropeis’ka pl. C-4, I-2 Ezhena Potie E-1 Lesi Ukrainky pl. I-4 Ol’hyns’ka C-5, I-2 Slavy pl. J-3 Yuliusa Fuchyka F-3 Fastivs’ka E-4 Lieskova I-4 Olehivs’ka C-1, H-1 Smilians’ka E-4 Yurkivs’ka H-1, N/O-6 Frometivs’ kyi uzviz H-5 Liniina G/H-4 Olenivs’ka N-6 Smolens’ka E-2 Zaliznychna E-2/3 Frometivs’ka H-5 Litnia I-4 Oleny Telihy E-1, L-4/5 Smyrnova-Lastochkina Zaliznychne shose I-5 Frunze D-1, H-1, L-4/5, M/N-6 Liuterans’ka B-4/5, I-2/3 O. Honchara A-2, B-3, G/H-2 B-2, C-1, H-1/2 Zavods’ka M/N-6 Gor’koho H-3/5, I-5 Lokomotyvna G-3/4 Oranzhereina E-1 Sofiis’ka pl. B/C-3, H-2 Zelenohirs’ka E/F-4 Haidara G-3 Lubens’ka I-5 Ostapa Vyshni I-5 Sofiivs’ka B-3, C-3/4, H-2 Zemlians’kyi prov. J-4 Haisyns’ka F/G-4 Luhova L/M-2 Ostrovs’koho F/G-3 Soliana G-1 Zhylians’ka G-2/3, H-3 Havans’kyi prov. M-5 Lukashevycha F/G-3 Ostrovs’koho prov. F-3 Solomians’ka F/G-4 Zhytn’otorz’ka pl. C-1, H-1 Heroiv Dnipra M-1 Lukianivs’ka C-1, G/H-1 Osvity F-4 Solomians’ka pl. F-3 Zlatopil’s’ka F-4 Heroiv Stalinhrada prosp. Lukianivs’ka pl. G-1 Otto Shmidta G-1 Sotsialistychna E/F-4 Zoi Haidai M-1 O-1/3 Lybids’ka G-3 Ovruts’ka L-6 Spas’ka D-2, H/I-1 Zolotoustivs’ka G-2 Heroiv Velykoi Vitchyznianoi Lyps’ka C-6, I-3 Ozerna F-4 Sportyvna pl. A-5/6, H-3 Zoolohichna E-2, F-1 Viiny pl. J-4 Lysenka A/B-3, H-2 Pan’kivs’ka G/H-3 Stadionna F/G-3 Zvirynets’ka J-5 kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2011 - 2012 62 Index

Alberti Angelo 52 Cosmopolite 16 KLM 48 Parter 11 Ukraine 20 Al Faro 28 Crepe de Chine 25 Kodokan 46 Pechersk School Ukraine-Japan Centre 10 American Library 10 Crystal Hall 34 Koza Dereza 22 International 53 Ukraine International Airlines 48 Androgyn 56 Cyber café 56 Kozats'ka Vtikha 22 Pena 27 Ukraine Palace 9 Antwerpen 26 D.A.Semadeni 32 Kozats'kiy 19 Pervak 22 Ukrainian State Museum of Accounting Solutions 54 Da Vinci Fish Club 28 KPMG 54 Petrovich Club-Restaurant 31 Books and Printing 39 Aeroflot 48 Déjà vu 24 Kult RA 22 PinchukArtCentre 42 Ultramarin 46 AeroSvit 48 D*Lux Entertainment 35 Kureni 22 Pizzeria Napulè 27 UniCredit Bank 54 Air Baltic 48 D'Lux Kiev Hostel 21 Kyiv 10 Planeta Sushi 30 Universal Flights Sales Alitalia - Compagnia Aeree Dnipro 16 Kyiv Fortress Museum 40 Podil Tennis Courts 46 Agency 48 Italiana 48 Docker's ABC 35 Kyiv Hotel Luxe 20 Podol Plaza 14 UnMomento 52 American Chamber of Daniel 51 Kyiv Islamic Social Cultural Polish Institute 10 UPS 47 Commerce in Ukraine 54 Deloitte & Touche 54 Centre 10 Pomada 56 Uruk 31 American Medical Centre 52 Dessange 52 Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra 39 Porta Pia 30 VaBene 30 Andrew's Descent 36 DHL 47 Kyiv (Zhulyany) Airport 48 Porter Pub 34 Varenichnaya #1 22 Antique Centre 51 Diva Health & Beauty Centre Kyiv Academy Doll Theatre 11 Porto 31 Vault 13 Computer Club 47 Antiques Salon 51 52 Kyivs'ka Rus 10 Prego Café 30 Viola's Bierstube 34 Antoshka 51 Dobrobut 52 KyivStar GSM 47 Premier Palace 14 Visak 18 Apartments Rent Kiev 20 Domus 16 Kyiv Theatre of Operetta 11 President Hotel 17 Vozdvyzhens'kyi Boutique Apple Consulting 54 Dorothy's Pub 33 Kyiv Young Theatre 11 PricewaterhouseCoopers 54 Hotel 14 Aprel' 26 Double Coffee 32 Laboratory Dr. Roedger 52 Prime Excursion Bureau 36, 40 Vulyk 22 Apteka #24 52 Down Town 21 La Cantina 28 Prisma 52 Water Information Centre 42 Aquarium Fitness Centre 46 Dream Hostel 21 Landhaus 18 Protasiv Yar 46 Why not? 21 Arena Entertainment 34 Dynamo Stadium 36 Lapin House 51 Radisson BLU 14 Wolkonsky 32 Arizona BBQ 22 Echo Eastern Europe 53 Le Cosmopolite 23 Raiffeisen Bank Aval 54 Xlib Club 35 Art Arsenal 40 English language centre 53 Ledovyi Stadion 46 Really Central 21 Ya Gallery 9 Art Club 44 34 Ernst & Young 54 Le Grand Café 25 Repriza 32 Yunist 46 A small-scale Kyiv 40 Europcar 49 Lesya Ukrainka Russian Richelieu 25 Zeh Gallery 9 Atelier 1 51 European Business Drama Theatre 11 Riviera on Podol 14 Zhovten 10 Atelier Karas 9 Association 54 Leto 24 RoomMe - web portal of Zvezdnyi Nosorog strip-club Austrian Airlines 48 Exibition of Microminiatures Life 47 short-term apartment rent 20 (Star Rhinoceros) 55 Avanto 52 by M.Syadrystyi 39 Lipsky Osobnyak 22 Rosie O'Grady's 34 Avis 49 Express 19 Lucky Pub 33 Route 66 35 Azhur 34 Falbi 52 Lufthansa 48 Rus 17 Babuin Bookshop- Favourite V.I.P. Club 46 Lun Van 23 Salyut 19 Coffeehouse 32 Federal Express 47 Lybid 17 Sam's Steak House 22 Bakkara Art-hotel 16 Fellini 25 Machaon 46 San Tori 30 Baraban 33 Folk Architecture and Life Magic Bus Kyiv 21 Scromnoye Obayaniye Bar on 8 33 Museum 40, 41 Mai-Tai Lounge 27 Bourgeoisie 24 Barsuk 30 Freedom 24 maLLina café 24 SEB Bank 54 BaзAAR Braserie 25 Free Tours 36 Marilyn 55 Senator Apartments City BEEF Meat & Wine 27 French Cultural Centre 10 Marmaris 31 Center 18 Belle Epoque 51 Gallery 36 9 Maysternya 9 Senator Apartments Belle Vue 23 Gapchinska 9 Meat & Fish Josper Bar 25 Executive Court 18 Bil'shovyk 46, 51 GastroRock 30 MedLife Elite 52 Shangrila 31 Bistro Cote Est 27 Gelos 51 MedLife Lux 52 Shapito 27 Blind Age sport music pub 33 General Direction of Megamarket 51 Sherborne Guest House 18 Bocconcino 27 Attendance to Foreign Memorial Museum of Shokoladnitsa 32 Bochka 33 Representatives 54 Zankovets'ka 41 Shynok 22 Boryspil State International Gin-no-Taki 30 Metrograd 51 Silver Bells 9 Airport 48 Globus 51 Miatniy Nosorog Strip bar 55 Sixt 49 Bosm Pharm 52 Goethe Institute 10 Mille Miglia Restorante & SkyArtCafé 32 British Airways 48 Golden Gate 37 Enoteca 28 Slavutych 19 British Council 10 Golden Gate Irish Pub 33 Mimino 23 Sorry Babushka 35 British Ukrainian Chamber of Goodman Steak House 22 Mir 20 Spagetti Pizzeria 27 Commerce 54 Good Wine Bar 33 MiReDo 24 SPA Naturel 52 Brucie Collections 9 Grata Apartment Service 20 Mitla 22 St. Andrew's Church 38 Buddha-bar 26 Greguar Apartments 18 M.Oliv'e 24 State Museum of Theatre, Budget 49 Gvozdiy & Oberkovych 54 Monarch International Music and Cinema Arts of Bulgakov Museum 40 Hankookkwan 25 Language Academy 53 Ukraine 39 Butterfly Bilshovyk 10 Hertz Rent a Car 49 Moskva 28 State Museum of Ukrainian Butterfly Deluxe 10 Himalaya 26 MTS 47 Decorative Art 39 Butterfly Petrivka 10 Holosiivs'kyi 20 Multiplex 10 Stefanos Fine Food Factory 30 Byblos 34 Hotel Airport 19 Murakami 30 St. Michael's Golden-Domed Café de Paris 25 Hotel Boryspil 19 Museum of Chernobyl 40 Cathedral 38 Café-Theatre Koleso 11 House of Coffee "Passage" 32 Museum of Historical St. Sophia's Cathedral 38 Campai 30 House With Chimeras 37 Valuables 39 Sullivan Room 35 Carribean Club 34 Hyatt Regency Kyiv 13 Museum of Modern Ukrainian Sunduk 34 Celentano 27 ibis Kiev Shevchenko Fine Arts Collection 41 Swiss Dry Cleaner Cinderella 52 Central Bus Station 48 Boulevard 16 Museum of Russian Art 41 Synagogue 38 Central/Southern Train Ikra Oyster Club 31 Museum of the Great Tampopo 31 Station 49 Il Patio 28 Patriotic War 41 Tarantino 27 Central Post Office 47 Impressa 17 Mysterious Kyiv 36, 40 Tarelka 24 AILAS 53 Independence Square 37 Mystetskiy Kurin' 9 T.G.I. Friday's 23 Chameleon 46 Indigo 33 National Art Museum 41 The British International Chief Department of Foreign Intercontinental 13 National History Museum 42 School 53 Economic Relations and Italian Culture Institute 10 National Museum of The National Bank of Ukraine 38 Investments 54 Ivan Franko National Chernobyl 42 The National Chillout Hostel Kiev 21 Academic Drama Theatre 11 National Opera of Ukraine 10 Museum "Memorial in China White 23 Ivan Honchar's Museum, National Philharmonic 9, 11, 12 Commemoration of Famines' Cimes 28 Ukrainian Centre of Folk Art 40 Naturlih Pub 34 Victims in Ukraine" 42 Ciro's Pomodoro 28 Jumbo 46 Nescafé 32 The One Street Museum 42 City Centre 21 Karavan 46 New Logic 36, 40 The Pharmacy Museum 42 Club Olympus 46 Karetniy 24 Nirvana 26 The Spiritual Treasures of CMD 52 Khreschatik 19 Novamova 53 Ukraine 42 CMS Reich-Rohrwig Hainz 54 Khreschatyk Guest House 18 O'Brien's 34 Tike 31 Cocaine 34 Kiev Apartments 20 Odesa Kino 10 TIU Khreschatyk 21 Coffee House 32 Kiev Apartment Service 20 Olga 20 TNT 47 Coffee Time 32 Kiev for You 20 Oliva 28 Tourist 19 Coffeeum on Maidan 32 Kinari Oriental SPA 53 Olymp 46 Tsarske Selo 22 Collection 9 King David 28 Open Kiev 36 Tsvetochnyi Nosorog strip- Collège Français Anne de Kazka Nova 51 Opera 14 club 55 Kiev 53 Khreschatyk 37 Osteria Pantagruel 28 Ukraina 10 Comrade & Mauser 31 Kinopalats 10 OTP Bank 54 Ukraina Viaggi 20 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Warsaw 25° 30° 35° 40° BELARUS RUSSIAN FEDERATION Pinsk Brest Homyel' a n P s P OLAND ripyats' e D Kursk Shostka UKRAINE Lublin VOLYNS'KA Chernihiv Kovel’ Konotop Chornobyl' OBLAST' Nizhyn Sumy a Korosten' isl Luts'k Novohrad† W Belgorod S Rivne Volyns'kyi Romny a Pryluky n 50 Zhytomyr Brovary 50 ° Kyiv ° la Przemysl? u L'viv S Kharkiv

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k Lubny s C Berdychiv r A D o R Drohobych Ternopil' Bila n Kremenchuts'ke V P Tserkva ip Starobil'sk A Stryi ro Vdskh. Poltava T H Khmel'nyts'kyi Cherkasy Izyum SLOVAKIA I A Smila N Kalush Ivano†Frankivs'k Kremenchuk Slovians'k Lozova Uzhhorod Kramators'k Stakhanov M Kolomyya Kamianets'†Podil's'kyi Uman’ Luhans'k Mukacheve Kostyantynivka O Kirovohrad Dniprodzerzhyns'k Alchevs'k ZAKARPATS'KA U D ni Horlivka Krasnyi OBLAST' N st er Zhovti Dnipropetrovs'k Luch T Chernivtsi R Vody Yenakiieve HUNGARY Shakhty A E Donets'k P Makiyivka I S Pervomays'k ir . N e t Bati O Nikopol’ Novocherkassk S ' F Pi Taganrog vd Rostov† ROMANIA M . B na†Donu u h Kahovske Iasi O Chisinau Mariupol' Vdskh. L Melitopol’ P Berdyans'k D Mykolayiv UKRAINE r u National capital t O Nova Kakhovka

V Kherson

Odesa Capital of Autonomous Republic A of Crimea and oblast' centre SEA OF AZOV RUSSIAN City, town a ok Zat Airport ts'ka Dzhankoy FEDERATION Karkinis Kerch International boundary Galati Izmayil AUTONOMOUS uban' 45 Braila Reni K 45 ° Autonomous Republic of Crimea REP. OF CRIMEA K ° e r and oblast' boundary Mouths of c Krasnodar Yevpatoriya Simferopol’ h Feodosiya e Road the Danube n Novorossiysk sk y P Railroad Sevastopol’ ro liv Oblast names are the same as their respective centres e Yalta except were labelled. anub D Constanta

0 50 100 150 200 250 300 km B LACK SEA

050 100 150 200 mi BULGARIA 25° Varna 30° 35° In Your Pocket guides and mini-guides are published in more than 50 cities across the continent. You can download PDF versions of them all for free at inyourpocket.com. In Your Pocket Europe’s City Guide inyourpocket.com ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES