Fall ’17 Footwear Trends Smart Textiles Tech Advances Trade Show Previews & Recaps Making It in America
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TEXTILE INSIGHT Trends In Apparel & Footwear Design and Innovation • January/February 2017 iNvEnToLoGy HOW THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IS INVENTING ITS FUTURE Fall ’17 Footwear Trends Smart Textiles Tech Advances Trade Show Previews & Recaps Making it in America A FORMULA4 MEDIA PUBLICATION TEXTILEINSIGHT.COM A breakthrough fiber innovation you have to feel to believe. Eastman Avra performance fibers wick better, dry faster, and keep you at your coolest and most comfortable. AVRAfromEastman.com ©2017 Eastman Chemical Company. Eastman brands referenced herein are trademarks of Eastman Chemical Company or one of its subsidiaries. The ® used on Eastman brands denotes registered trademark status in the U.S.; marks may also be registered internationally. JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2017 JANUARY/FEBRUARY Executive Editor Mark Sullivan [email protected] 646-319-7878 Editor /Associate Publisher Emily Walzer [email protected] Managing Editor Cara Griffin Art Director Francis Klaess Associate Art Director Mary McGann Contributing Editors Suzanne Blecher Kurt Gray Jennifer Ernst Beaudry Kathlyn Swantko Publisher Jeff Nott [email protected] 516-305-4711 Advertising Jeff Gruenhut [email protected] 404-467-9980 Christina Henderson 516-305-4710 [email protected] Troy Leonard [email protected] 352-624-1561 Katie O’Donohue [email protected] 828-244-3043 Sam Selvaggio [email protected] 212-398-5021 Production Brandon Christie 516 305-4710 [email protected] Business Manager Marianna Rukhvarger 516-305-4709 [email protected] Biosteel is the latest knit upper shoe technology from Adidas set to debut this year. Subscriptions store.formula4media.com Formula4 Media Publications 6 / In the Market 40 / Made in America Sports Insight The New Year begins with trade show previews, reports on Before “Think locally, act globally” became a popular buzz- Outdoor Insight Footwear Insight Performance Days, advances in digital textiles printing, and phrase, IDEAL Fastener was putting the strategy to work. We Inside Insight Team Insight news from the domestic manufacturing front. paid a visit to Oxford, NC to learn more. Textile Insight Running Insight Trend Insight 20 / Footwear 42 / TrendSetter sportstyle For Fall ’17, new midsole constructions that borrow from Margaret Dunford explains how she puts textiles to the test PO Box 23-1318 athletics, and knit uppers in a rainbow of colors, headline the in a four-wheeled environment in her role as director of Great Neck , NY 11023 Phone: 516-305-4710 latest styles of shoes for outdoor performance. design for Sage Automotive Interiors. Fax: 516-441-5692 www.formula4media.com Textile Insight® is a registered trademark 24 / Sourcing 44 / Survey of Formula4 Media, LLC. ©2017 All Sourcing is sure to be a hot topic in 2017, and here colleague We debut Trend Insight Industrial Designer, a new feature rights reserved. The opinions expressed by authors and contributors to Textile Bob McGee talks to execs with a front row seat to what’s within Textile Insight that delivers research conducted on the Insight are not necessarily those of the editors or publishers. Textile Insight is not going on in with trade agreements. MESH1 Platform. responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Articles appearing in Textile Insight may not be 34 / Tech 46 / Education reproduced in whole or in part without the express permission of the publisher. Industry experts discuss how the latest wearable tech FabricLink founder Kathy Swantko reports on research Textile Insight is published bi-monthly: tackles climate change and apparel functionality. And we happening at Japan’s Hokkaido University that is advancing Jan/Feb; Mar/Apr; May/Jun; Jul/Aug; Sep/Oct; and Nov/Dec. check in with the design community on their digital faves. smart fabrics with a new conductive thread. Subscriptions: one year, $24.00 (U.S. Funds) in the United States. All other countries, $54.00 (U.S. Funds). 38 / In the Studio 50 / Out of Context Men have got it made with stylishly technical running wear Kurt Gray has created a handy primer for working with a Postmaster: Send address changes to Textile Insight, P.O. Box 23-1318 and accessories. We showcase a handful of standout items domestic sewing contractor and preparing to manufacture Great Neck, NY 11023 from The Running Event (TRE). your million-dollar idea. TEXTILE TALK | EMILY WALZER Welcome to a New World Order and strategies they are putting in • Creativity is the rallying cry place to navigate winds of change. • American ingenuity and heri- These were fun interviews. Topics tage traits are strong drivers ranged from exploring new • Athletic meets lifestyle designs markets and emerging business are consumer priorities models to industry consolidation • Expect to see more corporate and constricting supply chains, ownership changes to political commentary and per- • Denim and workwear have sonal beliefs – the latter often momentum requested to be strictly “off the Of course there are many other record.” All in all great conversa- things on the radar for 2017. tions, jammed with interesting Sustainability and the cost of information. The main take away, compliance look to be hot topics. for me anyway, was the spunk Footwear tech continues to ramp these execs bring to our industry. up. And footwear in general is top Let’s be honest, these are chal- of mind, as one exec commented, lenging days in business, and a “footwear has become today’s “wait and see” approach would statement piece; the ‘it’ accessory here has been a burst of be understandable. Not so for the for many consumers.” Let’s be expression lately as indi- active/outdoor crowd. Instead And last but not least we have honest, viduals and corporations textile leaders are focused on an incoming administration prom- Tdeal with this moment in seizing new opportunities with ising change. No matter which these are time. People are dubbing it “The gung-ho spirit. I was impressed. side of the aisle you are on when challenging Age of Disruption,” or using tag- And when you read the story it comes to politics, we can agree days in lines such as the “Era of Change,” (starting on Page 28), I think you that discussions of trade, the and the “Year of Uncertainty.” But will be, too. environment, defense spending business. a phrase I happen to think best With so much agitation and and government will abound in captures the essence of today’s movement in the industry, fore- the months ahead. Will this new marketplace is, “it’s really weird casting the future is tricky at administration be a shot in the out there.” best. However, paging through arm for America and bring posi- Thank you Chris Parkes of this issue of Textile Insight, trends tive change? Send me an email Concept III for that spot-on and market influences bubble to and let me know what you think. description of the state of the the surface, offering ripples of market. Chris and other textile indication of where the business execs shared their thoughts with of outdoor performance is going. Emily us about the direction of the Here are five to keep in mind as outdoor industry going forward, we kick off the New Year: Textile-Based Product Solutions WHEN IT COMES TO PERFORMANCE TEXTILES WE HAVE YOU COVERED. We’ll SOURCE, DEVELOP, and PRODUCE new fabric-based solutions to keep your brand one step ahead of the competition. Learn more at conceptiii.com Contact us at [email protected] 4 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2017 textileinsight.com IN THE MARKET | OR PREVIEW: SUPPLIERS The Latest Fabric Developments Have Performance Stories to Tell. By Emily Walzer A Good Yarn Kingwhale that feature the company’s channels including military, outdoor Low Impact Technology (LIT) manu- and pet. The Zika virus continues to facturing method; Polygiene bluesign be a concern, especially with locally approved odor-control technology; contracted cases reported in FL and and Bolger & O’Hearn’s PFC-Free TX, and Lyme disease continues DWR treatment. to spread to different parts of the Cordura: A 50th anniversary country. Brand partners are explor- brings forth a slew of activity under ing a wider assortment of products. the umbrella of “Heritage meets ExOfficio, Craghoppers and Toad&Co Innovation.” A highlight is a new fiber are expanding offerings, with new technology, two-plus years in devel- partners in the wings for 2018. opment, called T420HT. The military Pertex: The UK-based supplier grade high tenacity fiber will debut has a new brand structure. Fabric with Dickies workwear Pro line. A sub-brands are redefined and catego- Combat Wool collaboration with rized by end-user benefits. The new Above: Schoeller’s new denim with or the season ahead the sus- Marlane delivers performance wool sub-brand structure consists of three reflective yarn and c-change tech. tainability story is strong, fabrics for men’s premium suiting. distinct series: Pertex Quantum – Below: New fabric with MIPAN Aqua but so too is the comfort New denims will also preview. insulation/wind fabrics, Pertex Shield x and creora Fresh from Hyosung in partnership with Best Pacific. F story, the heritage story, the eVent: A slate of brands are – waterproof breathable fabrics, partnership story, the supply chain coming on board for Fall/Winter. Pertex Equilibrium – double weave story, and the list goes on. Textile eVent’s newest, toughest water- fabrics. Multiple sub-brands exist suppliers increasingly understand proof tech, DVexpedition, will between these series. the use of story telling as a compel- launch with Flylow. DVexpedition PrimaLoft: Recently introduced ling and effective way to explain and is eVent’s most durable, air perme- is PrimaLoft Black Insulation enhance the appeal of new technolo- able and waterproof membrane, ThermoPlume, a high-performing gies and fabrications in the active purpose-built for skiers and serious blowable synthetic insulation with outdoor category. adventurers.