INSIGHT Trends In Apparel & Footwear Design and Innovation • January/February 2017 iNvEnToLoGy HOW THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IS INVENTING ITS FUTURE

Fall ’17 Footwear Trends Smart Tech Advances Trade Show Previews & Recaps Making it in America

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Executive Editor Mark Sullivan [email protected] 646-319-7878 Editor /Associate Publisher Emily Walzer emilywalzer@sbcglobal. Managing Editor Cara Griffin Art Director Francis Klaess Associate Art Director Mary McGann

Contributing Editors Suzanne Blecher Kurt Gray Jennifer Ernst Beaudry Kathlyn Swantko

Publisher Jeff Nott [email protected] 516-305-4711

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Jeff Gruenhut [email protected] 404-467-9980

Christina Henderson 516-305-4710 [email protected] Troy Leonard [email protected] 352-624-1561 Katie O’Donohue [email protected] 828-244-3043 Sam Selvaggio [email protected] 212-398-5021 Production Brandon Christie 516 305-4710 [email protected] Business Manager Marianna Rukhvarger 516-305-4709 [email protected] Biosteel is the latest knit upper shoe technology from Adidas set to debut this year.

Subscriptions store.formula4media.com Formula4 Media Publications 6 / In the Market 40 / Made in America Sports Insight The New Year begins with trade show previews, reports on Before “Think locally, act globally” became a popular buzz- Outdoor Insight Footwear Insight Performance Days, advances in digital textiles printing, and phrase, IDEAL Fastener was putting the strategy to work. We Inside Insight Team Insight news from the domestic manufacturing front. paid a visit to , NC to learn more. Textile Insight Running Insight Trend Insight 20 / Footwear 42 / TrendSetter sportstyle For Fall ’17, new midsole constructions that borrow from Margaret Dunford explains how she puts textiles to the test PO Box 23-1318 athletics, and knit uppers in a rainbow of colors, headline the in a four-wheeled environment in her role as director of Great Neck , NY 11023 Phone: 516-305-4710 latest styles of shoes for outdoor performance. design for Sage Automotive Interiors. Fax: 516-441-5692 www.formula4media.com Textile Insight® is a registered trademark 24 / Sourcing 44 / Survey of Formula4 Media, LLC. ©2017 All Sourcing is sure to be a hot topic in 2017, and here colleague We debut Trend Insight Industrial Designer, a new feature rights reserved. The opinions expressed by authors and contributors to Textile Bob McGee talks to execs with a front row seat to what’s within Textile Insight that delivers research conducted on the Insight are not necessarily those of the editors or publishers. Textile Insight is not going on in with trade agreements. MESH1 Platform. responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Articles appearing in Textile Insight may not be 34 / Tech 46 / Education reproduced in whole or in part without the express permission of the publisher. Industry experts discuss how the latest wearable tech FabricLink founder Kathy Swantko reports on research Textile Insight is published bi-monthly: tackles climate change and apparel functionality. And we happening at Japan’s Hokkaido University that is advancing Jan/Feb; Mar/Apr; May/Jun; Jul/Aug; Sep/Oct; and Nov/Dec. in with the design community on their digital faves. smart fabrics with a new conductive thread.

Subscriptions: one year, $24.00 (U.S. Funds) in the United States. All other countries, $54.00 (U.S. Funds). 38 / In the Studio 50 / Out of Context Men have got it made with stylishly technical running wear Kurt Gray has created a handy primer for working with a Postmaster: Send address changes to Textile Insight, P.O. Box 23-1318 and accessories. We showcase a handful of standout items domestic sewing contractor and preparing to manufacture Great Neck, NY 11023 from The Running Event (TRE). your million-dollar idea. TEXTILE TALK | EMILY WALZER

Welcome to a New World Order

and strategies they are putting in • Creativity is the rallying cry place to navigate winds of change. • American ingenuity and heri- These were fun interviews. Topics tage traits are strong drivers ranged from exploring new • Athletic meets lifestyle designs markets and emerging business are consumer priorities models to industry consolidation • Expect to see more corporate and constricting supply chains, ownership changes to political commentary and per- • and workwear have sonal beliefs – the latter often momentum requested to be strictly “off the Of course there are many other record.” All in all great conversa- things on the radar for 2017. tions, jammed with interesting Sustainability and the cost of information. The main take away, compliance look to be hot topics. for me anyway, was the spunk Footwear tech continues to ramp these execs bring to our industry. up. And footwear in general is top Let’s be honest, these are chal- of mind, as one exec commented, lenging days in business, and a “footwear has become today’s “wait and see” approach would statement piece; the ‘it’ accessory here has been a burst of be understandable. Not so for the for many consumers.” Let’s be expression lately as indi- active/outdoor crowd. Instead And last but not least we have honest, viduals and corporations textile leaders are focused on an incoming administration prom- Tdeal with this moment in seizing new opportunities with ising change. No matter which these are time. People are dubbing it “The gung-ho spirit. I was impressed. side of the aisle you are on when challenging Age of Disruption,” or using tag- And when you read the story it comes to politics, we can agree days in lines such as the “Era of Change,” (starting on Page 28), I think you that discussions of trade, the and the “Year of Uncertainty.” But will be, too. environment, defense spending business. a phrase I happen to think best With so much agitation and and government will abound in captures the essence of today’s movement in the industry, fore- the months ahead. Will this new marketplace is, “it’s really weird casting the future is tricky at administration be a shot in the out there.” best. However, paging through arm for America and bring posi- Thank you Chris Parkes of this issue of Textile Insight, trends tive change? Send me an email Concept III for that spot-on and market influences bubble to and let me know what you think. description of the state of the the surface, offering ripples of market. Chris and other textile indication of where the business execs shared their thoughts with of outdoor performance is going. Emily us about the direction of the Here are five to keep in mind as outdoor industry going forward, we kick off the New Year:

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4 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2017 textileinsight.com

IN THE MARKET | OR PREVIEW: SUPPLIERS The Latest Fabric Developments Have Performance Stories to Tell. By Emily Walzer

A Good

Kingwhale that feature the company’s channels including military, outdoor Low Impact Technology (LIT) manu- and pet. The Zika virus continues to facturing method; Polygiene bluesign be a concern, especially with locally approved odor-control technology; contracted cases reported in FL and and Bolger & O’Hearn’s PFC-Free TX, and Lyme disease continues DWR treatment. to spread to different parts of the : A 50th anniversary country. Brand partners are explor- brings forth a slew of activity under ing a wider assortment of products. the umbrella of “Heritage meets ExOfficio, Craghoppers and Toad&Co Innovation.” A highlight is a new fiber are expanding offerings, with new technology, two-plus years in devel- partners in the wings for 2018. opment, called T420HT. The military Pertex: The UK-based supplier grade high tenacity fiber will debut has a new brand structure. Fabric with Dickies workwear Pro line. A sub-brands are redefined and catego- Combat collaboration with rized by end-user benefits. The new Above: Schoeller’s new denim with or the season ahead the sus- Marlane delivers performance wool sub-brand structure consists of three reflective yarn and c-change tech. tainability story is strong, fabrics for men’s premium suiting. distinct series: Pertex Quantum – Below: New fabric with MIPAN Aqua but so too is the comfort New will also preview. insulation/wind fabrics, Pertex Shield x and creora Fresh from Hyosung in partnership with Best Pacific. F story, the heritage story, the eVent: A slate of brands are – waterproof breathable fabrics, partnership story, the supply chain coming on board for Fall/Winter. Pertex Equilibrium – double weave story, and the list goes on. Textile eVent’s newest, toughest water- fabrics. Multiple sub-brands exist suppliers increasingly understand proof tech, DVexpedition, will between these series. the use of story telling as a compel- launch with Flylow. DVexpedition PrimaLoft: Recently introduced ling and effective way to explain and is eVent’s most durable, air perme- is PrimaLoft Black Insulation enhance the appeal of new technolo- able and waterproof membrane, ThermoPlume, a high-performing gies and fabrications in the active purpose-built for skiers and serious blowable synthetic insulation with outdoor category. adventurers. Rab, Motorfist, Eddie the look and feel of natural down. The Performance continues as a main Bauer, K2 and Strafe are other new new product is a blend of water-resist theme. Lightweight is a common eVent partners in apparel. PrimaLoft fibers that deliver loft, wet refrain but in new ways: lightweight Halley Stevensons: With its unique weather protection and compress- laminates, for example, are a major features, textile heritage, and sus- ibility. Its construction allows for it to talking point. Weather-protection tainable attributes waxed is be blown through traditional down- remains a driver, however, versatility drawing interest in contemporary blowing manufacturing equipment. is equally critical. outdoor. The company has new Schoeller: Winter 2018/19 features Collaborations play a big role programs with Mission Workshop, new water-repelling Schoeller-shape in next season’s story telling. And Triple Aught Design, Filson, Burberry reflex fabrics that incorporate reflec- advances in tech, as well as improve- and Carhartt, along with a new tive yarn unnoticeable during the ments in comfort features and waterproof wax alternative, called day, including denim styles with aesthetics, are more often being told Discovery, that is a high-performance c_change and elegant mulesing-free in tandem by suppliers and brands. material with a soft, lux fabric hand. wool . Schoeller also expands As the outdoor market becomes Hyosung: A partnership with Best its ECONYL collection with an ultra- increasingly lifestyle oriented, Pacific Textiles will launch new cool light, bielastic Schoeller-dynamic, a new ways of selling and telling the and fresh fabrics with MIPAN Aqua very soft, fine Schoeller dryskin and outdoor performance story is an x and creora Fresh. The strategic a light double- Schoeller-WB-400. important industry yarn. Here’s just co-operation is designed to offer The ECONYL regeneration system a handful of the fabric developments the needs of consumers looking for collects regenerable materials from previewing at ORWM17: performance with moisture manage- landfills and oceans and recycling Concept III: Several advance- ment, UV protection, comfort, fit them into production lines. ments are on tap for upcoming and freshness from odor neutral- W.L. Gore: Celebrating a milestone seasons. Highlights include: Dry-Tex izing technologies. Applications for birthday, the company will feature innovative lightweight softshell and the fabric collection, available in product innovations from the past 40 technical laminates that continue various weights, includes perfor- years that are now industry staples. to gain traction in active/outdoor mance underwear, sports bras, and Gore-Tex fabric was made commer- applications; a large collection of base layer applications. cially available 1976 in tents made by sustainable textiles with an array Insect Shield: 2016 was a busy year Early Winters and sleeping bags and of technical fleece fabrics from for Insect Shield with growth in all down garments by Marmot. O

6 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2017 textileinsight.com r o fo f A T ST I VI V N IN f o k rk r a ma de a ra r t ed r er t st s i gi g e re a s i ® A RA U DU R OR O C A. A T ST VI V N IN 7 1 01 2 ©2

We’re still climbing. Still exploring. Still discovering new ways to make fabrics that are more durable, more breathable, more lightweight. You see, this adventure never ends. There’s always another mountain to climb. We’re glad we get to climb it with you. cordura.com IN THE MARKET | OR PREVIEW: BRANDS Brands Choose Fabrics, Tech with End User in Mind.

Fit to Function

erformance is the palette in a . Treatments are designed into common thread in a Fall Says Voormi CMO Timm Smith, garments to provide the traveler ’17 season that offers a “While much of our development with the right technology for each P wide range of apparel to date has focused on improving layer of their outfit, according to options. No matter if gar- things like durability and wicking the company. First layers have ments are positioned performance, we’re always on SoWarm technology that converts as lifestyle or as the hunt for opportunities to water vapor from the body to ther- hard-core technical push natural fibers in to new mal energy. Second layers work outerwear, func- performance spaces.” to trap body heat without bulk, tional fabrics are North Sails takes a technical and outer layers provide warmth a defining feature. approach as well with apparel that through insulation even when wet. However, brands is created with the same level of Additionally, ExOfficio has incorpo- realize the need to craft the company is known for in rated IR reflection technology into differentiate, so along sail making. Performance fabrics all layers of the SoWarm collection with calling out com- are featured throughout the new to trap body heat and reflect it ponents that enhance Fall 2017 line of jackets. Two good back to the skin. comfort, weather pro- examples are the use of Dyneema, tection, and versatility, an extremely strong yet lightweight For Eco Outdoorists the latest goods also and cut/abrasion resistant material Sustainability is top of mind this highlight materials and season. Royal Robbins’ new line, for technologies that are an By strategically example, features the brand’s switch ideal fit for a particular interlacing a matrix of to fluorocarbon free DWR for all end user, whether that advanced high-visibility temperate wear. Eco-friendly manu- consumer is a trav- fibers with fine micron facturing methods are of interest to eler, a hiker, a skier, a merino wool, Voormi is consumers, who increasingly want sailor, or an eco-minded able to offer a bright color to know how and where their cloth- adventurer. palette in a natural fiber. ing is made. The latest styles of The new PFC-free DWR is avail- cold-weather wear make and an innovative Hydrowool with able in Royal Robbins men’s and use of technical insula- DWR treatment. Interestingly for women’s products. The men’s tions, water and wind the watersport users, the Dyneema Waterproof Three for all Jacket, resist technologies, fabric is stronger than carbon steel features the new PFC-free water adaptive fabrics and yet floats on water. repellent technology with perfor- anti-odor treatments. Darn Tough shows both a hard- mance fabrications and a lifestyle Among popular per- core performance side, as well as look. The insulated, breathable formance textile picks a softer side in its Fall ’17 product jacket can be worn as one piece, or lineup. The sock maker has reengi- Voormi RMEF Access Vest in Blaze for next season are top-line as separate pieces. A zip out liner Orange with PHASE-HVis Technology. insulations for lightweight warmth, neered its Vertical and Endurance that attaches to the shell has anti- fabric tech for enhanced breath- lines of performance sport-specific order technology. ability, that combine function products, but also has a new lux New products from Aventura with fashion, and super-soft lux yarn on tap. The fine gauge, high- and Ecoths stay true to the compa- for keeping toes toasty. density knit wool is featured in the nies’ sustainability roots. Aventura Voormi gives cyclists, runners women’s Diamond Lifestyle sock as offers a mixture of styles, patterns and endurance athletes a new look. well as other styles for Fall ’17. and colors that are representative The Colorado-based wool specialist of nature and natural colorways. offers PHASE-HVis technology that Comfort in the Cold Throughout, the focus is on using will deliver a range of color and high With the needs of the modern eco-friendly organic , visibility options. traveler front and center, ExOfficio merino wool and bamboo. Ecoths’ Unlike synthetic fibers, wool is brings to market SoWarm one for one mission continues in a naturally light absorbing fiber Technology. Developed with versa- Fall ’17, with dedication to feeding that struggles to present bright/ tility and comfort for cold weather one person for one day for one fluorescent color, according to the travels, SoWarm is an efficient layer- garment purchased. In addition to company. By strategically interlacing ing system made up of a family of their giveback campaign, Ecoths North Sails’ Typhoon Jacket is technical a matrix of advanced high-visibility adaptive performance yarns and also uses organic cotton or merino and tailored with a breathable membrane fibers with fine micron merino wool, fabric treatments that provide a high wool blends in all of their shirts and signature “double hood” lined in Voormi is able to offer a bright color warmth-to-weight ratio. and pants. O Tyvek fabric for extreme functionality.

8 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2017 textileinsight.com connect.LYCRA.com/TextileInsight 7H[WLOH,QVLJKWRUYLVLWXVDW2XWGRRU5HWDLOHU To learnmore,gotoconnect.LYCRA.com/ LWU DNW Q DW DH L\-DQXDU\ &LW\ /DNH 6DOW LQ 0DUNHW :LQWHU 10-12, 2017, atbooth #39213. of LYCRA W QVSRW RDWYZDJDUPHQWV DFWLYHZHDU IRU VXSSRUW DQG ´W HQJLQHHUHGWRGHOLYHUH[FHSWLRQDOFRPIRUW It combinestheprovenstretchtechnology VWDQGDUGVWKDWPHDVXUHIDEULFSHUIRUPDQFH Keep movingwithLYCRA LYCRA \ RIU RHDG QU\ OHYHOV HQHUJ\ DQG SRZHU FRPIRUW E\ ® 35IELLVFLHQWL´FDOO\ LV IDEULF 63257  ® EU LK HDGQWHVWLQJ GHPDQGLQJ ZLWK ´EHU  ® SPORTfabric.

LYCRA® is a trademark of INVISTA. © INVISTA 2016. IN THE MARKET | EURO REPORT Hybridization & Decorative Technicity Feature at Performance Days. By Louisa Smith

Innovation Engineered

add function and style to semi- seamless garment. H-One focuses on a / blend in a circular knit, but again offering the zoned ventilation detail. The new trend in hybridization is evolving precision engineering with the fabric construction, enabling brand developers to eliminate seams without compromising the zoned function. Today’s new fabrics allow for a hybrid garment, that combines seamless and cut-and- sew, with precise performance in key areas. The result of enhanced support and comfort is key in the contemporary marketplace. Performance Days debuted diverse looks and fabrics blends including: (left to right) Brugnoli, Optimer Brands and Mectex.

erformance Days is really applications integral to the product. A Focus on Style & Sustainability establishing itself as an The cellulosic fiber Tencel is A stronger sense of fashion essential show for the gaining ground in the performance features in functional fabrics for the P European market, as sector. Known for its sustainability season. Forget the basics, decorative brand developers and designers and soft touch, Tencel is being surface effects through prints are use this mid-season slot to source incorporated in hybrid blends. emerging. A good example is seen Top Trends in across seasons. Developing collec- Labtex offers an 85 percent with prints on high performance Performance Fabrics: tions for Spring/Summer 2018 were polyester, 15 percent Tencel blend fabric at Mectex. A decorative As Seen at Performance Days on display, along with a preview for with a lightweight feel of 142 g/ approach is also happening with Fall/Winter 18/19. Visitors weren’t sm. J & B also blends Tencel with jacquard effects and blistered Lightweight fabrics continue in disappointed with the latest develop- polyester with a burn out finish surfaces, both a refreshing approach base and outer layer fabrics - ments and trend directions shown at offering a floating camouflage to the traditionally flat bases. dense in construction but lighter this niche show. look on a transparent base. Both This decorative and textured in weight. The key focus of the recent new developments highlight the surfaces mood continues through Munich show was continued partnership that can be achieved to reflectivity. The functionality of Hybrid blends - natural and interest in the hybrid theme. from contrasting fiber foundations. safety combining with decorative synthetic combinations. Originating in the yarn sector and Hybridization applies beyond the aspects has a wide appeal. Many textile construction, hybridization use of contrasting yarns, to culling outer shell wovens and high Double-faced fabrics in 2 and has extended through to fabric expertise from other sectors of performance knits have had 3-layer combinations - the construction and garment the industry. Brugnoli is a case in the added option of a reflective decorative aspect features with design. Fabrics are being more point, with its innovative crochet print or finish with J&B offering a contrasting colors/prints and specifically engineered via different melange effect, achieved from the reflective honeycomb print on a fabrics. compression and performance content that also attains a reflective base. zones within the construction, contrasting colored result through Sustainability continues to be Decorative surface effects through allowing for brand developers and one dye bath, pushing a more a major part of the industry’s structure or prints. designers to reduce seaming within sustainable approach. The final development, with recycled a garment. product is innovative and draws polyester featuring in pure Reflective prints and trims remain On the fiber front the synergetic from the intimate apparel sector, qualities and blends. Unifi offers a a staple in the market, but are approach of merino wool with delivering a crossover approach to double sided knit with windproof, updated through decorative effects synthetics continues. Evertex, a visual aspects yet with high levels of waterproof and breathable teaming a stronger fashionable bluesign partner, has developed performance for the sports sector. functionality for example. appeal alongside the desired a 42 percent merino wool, 58 While sustainability stays on function. percent polyester and four Zoned for Performance course, the hybridization influence percent spandex/elastane knit Penn Textile Solutions has seen at Performance Days is Sustainable textile processes weighing only 155 g/sm. The developed a range of warp knit a significant new trend in the continue. combination of the two yarns fabrics with zoned compression industry, as this more efficient use heightens the performance, with and open structure for of fibers and yarns carries over to moisture management and thermal ventilation in key areas that will fabric construction. O

10 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2017 textileinsight.com Wear More. Wash Less® Polygiene Odor Control Technology

” Aside from assisting athletes to smell better, Polygiene also endeavours to help minimize the environmental impact of outdoor enthusiasts. The company’s tag line Wear More Wash Less addresses the fact that washing and drying clothing account for over half of an item’s ecological footprint.” – BackcountrySkiingCanada.com, October 2016 TEST TEAM SWEATING IN SENJA, NORWAY IN SENJA, TEST TEAM SWEATING

GOOD FOR THE PLANET · GOOD FOR THE CONSUMER · GOOD FOR YOUR BRAND Polygiene Odor Control Technology is a durable, effective and sustainable textile treatment that uses naturally occurring silver salt to stop the growth of odor-causing bacteria. The result? You can ski more and wash less.

AN INNOVATIVE INGREDIENT Polygiene is an industry-leading odor control technology that adds value to your brand. Market studies have shown that consumers would choose apparel featuring Polygiene over apparel without it. The treatment is embedded into the textile for permanent performance and easy care, which makes it last the lifetime of the garment.

GARMENTS PROTECTIVE GEAR GLOVES FOOTWEAR Even during the most intense Protective gear such as helmets Polygiene glove treatments stop Polygiene-treated socks and activities, Polygiene-treated and armor with Polygiene odor-causing bacteria from footwear stop stinky feet in apparel manages moisture prolongs the life of the gear growing, keeping gloves fresh, their tracks, allowing you to while stopping the growth and keeps it odor-free. clean and easy to care for. stay fresh, comfortable and of odor-causing bacteria. in pursuit of your passions.

#wearmorewashless polygiene.com IN THE MARKET | DIGITAL CONFERENCE Digital Print Market Turns to Textiles for Growth. By Emily Walzer

Favorable Tailwinds

t a recent sold-out conference in Durham, NC, presenters Kornit Digital offers printing system and panelists provided a snapshot of innovation within options for entry level as well as mass the digital print market that is generating enthusiasm and customization. A growth in the textile space. Tech advances, consumer trends and reshoring efforts are seen as clear indications that digital printing is a fit for today’s textile industry. Aptly titled, “: The Future is Now” the confer- ence brought together a diverse crowd consisting of manufacturers, researchers, textile execs, product developers and fashion designers. Interest in the topic was such that question and answer sessions often stretched past the allotted time, and breaks for networking were buzzy. Obviously digital textile printing is a subject domestic businesses want to explore. Jointly sponsored by the AATCC and SGIA (Specialty Graphic & Imaging Association) the two-day conference drew 130 participants and included tabletop exhibits of products and services by a dozen suppliers including Freudenberg Performance Materials, Hohenstein/ Oeko-Tex, Lubrizol, Testfabrics, Inc., and Top Value Fabrics. While digital textile printing is still in its infancy execs believe there are exciting times ahead for the industry. “The market has evolved since 2010 and in the last five years there have been sig- nificant strides made within textiles sector,” said Mark Sawchak, with Expand/MS. “This is an exciting time,” added Bill Finley, Meno Enterprises. “There are lots of things lining up for us, really for all of us, to really grow.” O

Cutting-Edge Tech + Consumer Trends so they can print on cotton, nylon and Fabric, Fashion and Forward-Thinking A manufacturers’ panel discussion made polyester. This gives customers more In an afternoon session focused on a compelling argument for implementing flexibility and can use the tech to serve a Sustainability and Product Design, Ben digital textile printing. Participants broader customer base. “The beauty of Mead of Hohenstein USA spoke to the audi- explained new technologies, outlined digital is the short runs and fast response. ence about how to know the inks and other trends and defined the advantages of Now companies are implementing the chemicals used will meet customer envi- digital printing for today’s business needs. technology in the supply chain.” ronmental objectives. The topic sparked a Bob Rychel of Durst Image Technology Sharon Donovich of Kornit Digital prolonged Q&A period as attendees were emphasized progress made using pigment agreed. “There is a huge trend of shorter clearly interested in learning more about dyes, and highlighted the company’s new runs,” said Donovich who listed other sustainable properties and how to address Carrie Yates with Alpha Series and the Greentex-P One Step advantages including: simplicity, no set eco responsibility with digital printing. Cotton Incorporated Soft Pigment products. “There are lots of up costs, infinite design flexibility and no An engaging presentation by fashion print innovations. tailwinds with pigment technology,” said minimum order quantity – in other words designer Alexander Julian was a crowd Durst. “Machines are running pigment fast, a MOQ of one. pleaser. Well-known from his high profile and can print on almost Donovich also sited four key consumer apparel collections while in New York any fiber.” trends driving growth: Social media, years ago, Julian was an early adopter of He said business is growing, with personal experience, immediate digital printing. He continues to advance pigment only two percent of the business gratification, and consumer awareness of his level of expertise in the field with his in 2014 but projected to be nine percent sustainability issues. latest apparel offerings, some of which he by 2019. Panelist Ken VanHorn of Mimaki USA, displayed at the conference. The selection “We now have the speed, the hand said, “From a manufacturers’ perspective of top-shelf menswear items including sport and the quality. We’re getting closer and the goal is to address broadest appeal.” jackets, tailored shirts and a knit polo were

Menswear looks closer to the holy grail,” said Durst, who What today’s market wants, according to extraordinary examples of digital print used by designer also noted a step change in pre-treatment. VanHorn, is defined by three factors: “just in fashion design. Alexander Julian. “Our Swiftjet products are more robust in time,” “just what I want, and “whole “I was always mesmerized by cloth,” and feature resource conservation using piece delivery.” said Julian who is a North Carolina native. 50 percent less water, 30 percent less pre- He said that the textile market consists When asked about the biggest benefit of treat chemicals. And it is GOTS certified.” of three segments: Interior Décor, Soft digital textile printing, Julian responded, “To Expand executive Sawchak said his new Signage, and Wearables/ Garment. “We see dream. You can do anything. All you have to machines use two different ink chemistries movement into wearables.” do is think it up.”O

12 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2017 textileinsight.com HE DOESN’T STINK AT THIS.

Thanks to the innovative and ever-advancing technologies of Microban, clothing, footwear and gear stay fresher longer.

Be sure to check in at our “Science and Solutions of Odor Control” workshop January 10 @ 11 am in the Trend and Design Center (#155-501) and catch the first scent on odor control technologies from Microban.

Come visit our Fresh Bar to take the sniff challenge and microban.com see how we’re leading the way with anti-odor innovations that merge seamlessly into your systems. ©2016 All Rights Reserved. MICROBAN is a registered trademark of Microban Products Company.

VISIT BOOTH #155-406

IN THE MARKET | ECO UPDATE A Round Up of Industry Sustainable Developments.

50 U.S. Firms Now ECO Helmet Innovation GOTS Certified There are now 50 com- panies in the United States certified to GOTS, the Global Organic Textile Standard. Ramblers Way Farm, Inc. of Kennebunk, Maine, manufacturer of garments made from GOTS certified organic wool, recently became the fiftieth company to be added to the GOTS public database for the United States. Canada now has seven com- panies certified to the program. The GOTS public database at www. globalstandard.org is filled with useful informa- Isis Shiffer designed a folding, recyclable bike helmet. tion about how to get certified. GOTS is the ccording to the Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute, more than 800 cyclists were killed on U.S. roads in 2015. And with stringent voluntary global millions of people globally taking part in bike share programs – many of whom rarely wear helmets – that number standard for the entire of accidents looks to increase. Isis Shiffer, a recent graduate from the Pratt Institute of Design in New York City, post-harvest process- A has come up with a solution: EcoHelmet, a folding, recyclable helmet for bike share users. ing (including spinning, EcoHelmet uses a unique honeycomb configuration to protect the head from impact, and folds flat when not in , , use. A biodegradable coating makes it resistant to rain for up to three hours. The lightweight, durable design of EcoHelmet and manufac- empowers cyclists to ride safely and confidently. turing) of apparel and The cell structure of EcoHelmet distributes any impact evenly around the head as effectively as a traditional polystyrene home textiles made helmet. Due to the radial nature of the cells, it will protect the user from a blow coming from any direction. The simplicity with organic fiber (such of the EcoHelmet’s construction, coupled with its inexpensive materials, will keep the manufacturing costs low – meaning as organic cotton and they can be sold for $5 at bike share stations. organic wool), and the As international winner of the James Dyson Award 2016, Shiffer will be awarded $45,000 to further develop her invention. standard includes both “I was lucky enough to be studying at Royal College of Art and the Imperial College of London for a semester, and was granted environmental and social access to Imperial’s lab,” says Isis. “They had a European standard helmet crash setup that allowed me to gather enough criteria. Key provisions data on Ecohelmet’s proprietary honeycomb configuration to know it was viable and worth developing.” O include a ban on the use of genetically modi- fied organisms (GMOs), Mt Khakis Grows Organic Cotton & Recycled Materials Offering highly hazardous chemi- cals (such as azo dyes or Fall ’17, Mountain Khakis will feature are looking for practical and stylish apparel that and formaldehyde), more product using organic cotton and aligns with their values and fits equally in urban and child labor, while recycled polyester. Legacy pieces such landscapes just well as it does in the mountains.” requiring strong social F as the iconic Original Mountain Pant Organic cotton pant styles for men include the compliance manage- now use 100 percent organic cotton, while the Original Mountain Pant, the Alpine Utility ment systems and strict popular Old Faithful collection is entirely com- Pant and the Original Field Pant. Combining wastewater treatment posed of recycled polyester. “One of every five comfort and style, the classic fitting Lundy practices. In 2015, more items we ship in fall 2017 will be made of organic Flannel Shirt is made of 100 percent cotton than 3,800 facilities were or recycled materials,” said Noah Robertson, flannel yarn dye. For women, the popular Old certified to GOTS in 68 co-founder of Mountain Khakis and director of Faithful Coat now utilizes 100 percent recy- countries. The number product development. “Our apparel collections cled polyester. It features a brushed interior of workers reported The Women’s Old Faithful present thoughtfully designed modern looks that for comfort, a textured knit sweater exterior in 3,419 GOTS certi- Coat from Mountain Khakis convey the mountain lifestyle, while focusing with six pockets and falls at the mid-thigh for fied facilities exceeded features recycled polyester. on sustainability and performance. Consumers increased warmth and style on cold nights. O 1,050,000. O

14 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2017 textileinsight.com AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. Service Marks/Trademarks of Cotton Incorporated. © 2016 Cotton Incorporated. emerges asafiber for thepresent andthefuture. management they performance want, cotton with themoisture expect consumers breathability By combining thecomfort and synthetic fibers. manage moisture as well orbetterthan,many as, from Cotton Incorporated now enablecotton to fi modern performance innovationstechnological thatreinvent cotton asa beenhancedcan through theapplication of Discover how thenatural of properties cotton ber. Brandedtechnologies cottoninc.com IN THE MARKET | COMPANY NEWS A Round Up of Recent Industry Developments.

U.S. Textiles Start the New Year Strong

Taiwan, China and Thailand. This is its first U.S. operation. Scott Chen, VP, Everest Textile, stated, “As a native North Carolinian, it is exciting to see Everest Textile USA investing in the state and people of North Carolina, while also creating innovative products. ” Everest Textiles qualifies for about $3.1 million in state and local incen- tives, according to local reports. The largest is a $3 million state Job Development Investment Grant that will be paid to Everest over 12 years.

Lenzing Expands Domestically Lenzing’s announced expansion with a new facility, combined with previously announced debottleneck- ing projects at the other Tencel fiber sites, looks to boost overall capacity by more than 50 percent by 2020. Global Tencel capacity is currently 220,000 tons. The state-of-the-art plant, with a production capacity of nvestment in domestic manufacturing continues operation that will employ 610 people in Forest 90,000 tons per year, will be the largest Tencel as the momentum from year-end 2016 looks City, NC. Production is expected to start during fiber plant in the world, according to a company to be carrying over into 2017 with big name the first half of 2017. statement that also noted that the new operation in I textile companies reporting expansion plans. Everest is taking over an existing building in Mobile comes with an investment of $293 million. Everest Textiles, for example, has announced its Forest City, which is located in Rutherford County, Explained Lenzing CEO Stefan Doboczky, “This plans to open an operation in North Carolina and in western NC. The facility is approximately 400,000 expansion also underscores our commitment to Lenzing intends to add to the reshoring effort with square feet, and will serve as a weaving, dyeing all our Tencel fiber customers, who continue to a Tencel fiber plant scheduled to open in 2019 in and plant for active apparel. make their products even more sustainable using Alabama. Here are details on these positive signs Everest is a well-known supplier in the active/ Tencel fiber.” of growth on the home front: outdoor space, making innovative goods for the A significant feature of Tencel production is that likes of Nike, Columbia and Patagonia. Founded the solvent used is kept in a closed loop system Everest Plans U.S. Production in 1988, the publicly held parent company is a with 98 percent being recycled, making for a more Taiwanese company Everest Textile will spend vertically integrated developer and supplier of eco-responsible operation that most of the $18.5 million over five years on a new fabric performance textiles products with factories in processes. O

Hosiery Update: Acquisitions in the Sock Market

win City Knitting, a leading sock maker CEO of SABG. “The acquisition of TCK is expected ning hosiery brand in the U.S. and manufactures for team sports has been acquired by to provide SABG with access to a variety of new all of its products in its 240,000 square foot, facility Sock & Accessory Brands Global, a unit buying organizations and distribution channels. It in Osage, Iowa. Fox River President and Co-Owner T of (SABG), Huron Capital Partners LLC. will also add domestic manufacturing capabilities John Lessard said, “We knew it was important to Founded in 1961, Twin City is a designer, manufac- to SABG’s current operations, which we expect find a partner that believed in U.S. manufacturing turer and wholesaler of performance athletic socks, will allow for faster turnaround times to meet and investing in the people and the community. We and the majority of its products are manufactured customer needs.” believe we’ve found that in LongWater. We’re excited in the United States. It will continue to operate out Fox River Mills has been bought by LongWater about the future of Fox River Mills.” of its existing facilities in North Carolina and the Opportunities, a private equity firm headquartered Fox River is the fourth investment in LongWater’s prior owners, Joseph Lamb and Fran Davis, will in Dallas, Texas. Fox River has been owned and man- second equity fund. The Osage mill will be a division retain their roles with the business. In addition, aged by the Lessard family since 1975, producing of Standard Merchandising Company, a Camden, Fran Davis will join the Board of Directors. high-quality knitted technical socks and handwear New -based domestic manufacturer of socks “TCK is a well-recognized name in the American for the outdoor, athletic and casual markets. Founded and hosiery products acquired by LongWater in team sports apparel market,” says Tom O’Riordan, in 1900, Fox River is the longest, continuously run- December 2015. O

16 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2017 textileinsight.com PRIMALOFT® IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF PRIMALOFT, INC. ©2017 PRIMALOFT, INC. Break free from the confines of non-br innovation ininsulationresponds to the body’s need for breathability duringhigh-energy and warmth inlow-output activities. And all the while maintaining Discover the new standard inactivebreathability atblog.primaloft.com IT BREATHES WITH YOU. eathable fabrics with PrimaLoft® Insulation Active. This Latest 92 % ofits warmthwhen wet. % IN THE MARKET | COMPANY NEWS Updates on Shows, Suits and Senior Positions.

PGA Highlights Textiles

ot topics including “Sourcing ticipating companies, complimentary workshops Fine Chemicals Ltd. unlawfully continued to use Merchandise in the New Political and sourcing consultants on hand combine to the AEGIS brand in sales and marketing materials Environment,” “New Technology/ offer a premier opportunity for exhibitors and after Microban terminated its distributor agree- HInnovation,” and “What’s Next in apparel development executives to expand their ment in 2013, and throughout the trial. During Active Lifestyle,” are on the docket for discus- sourcing matrix and develop a deeper knowledge its distributorship with Microban, Greenchem sion at the 2017 PGA Merchandise Show. The of performance fabrics, manufacturing and inter- Fine Chemicals Ltd. secured several fraudulent Performance & Sports Textile Sourcing sec- national trade opportunities.” trademark registrations for the AEGIS trademarks tion at the upcoming Orlando fair will feature The 64th PGA Merchandise Show, to be held in certain Asian territories. Greenchem Fine these along with other seminars as part of the Jan. 25-27, 2017, in Orlando, will welcome some Chemicals Ltd. has been ordered to immediately daily educational program. Additionally, more 1,000 top golf companies and brands and more discontinue its use of the AEGIS trademark regis- than 40 international fabric mills and factories than 40,000 industry professionals from around trations. A public apology has been ordered to be with expertise in high-performance fabrics will the world to the industry’s annual global summit published in the China IP Daily, before year’s end. exhibit in the specialized Textiles sourcing area. for the business of golf. O “This is an important victory for Microban,” Domestic suppliers as well as leading mills from said Lisa Owen, senior business director, global Asia and Europe will display their latest develop- MIcroban Wins Judgment in Trademark Case textiles for Microban. “Microban has always ments and innovations. Microban, a leader in antimicrobials and odor prided itself on the quality of its products, and “We are pleased to have growing participa- control technologies, won a judgment and we want to maintain the integrity of our brand. tion by international textile companies and a damages from Shanghai’s Greenchem Fine AEGIS comes from only one place and that is full educational calendar in our second year Chemicals Ltd., for fraudulent use of its AEGIS Microban and its authorized distributor network” of the Performance & Sports Textile Sourcing Environmental Management Inc. (a subsidiary of Greenchem Fine Chemicals Ltd. is no longer at the PGA Merchandise Show,” said PGA Golf Microban International) trademarks. The Putuo an authorized distributor of AEGIS products, and Exhibitions Event Director Marc Simon. “The par- District Court order declared that Greenchem is not permitted to sell any products produced by AEGIS Environmental Management, Inc. or Microban Products International. AEGIS Environmental Management Inc. is the lawful owner of the AEGIS, AEM and AEGIS Microbe Shield trademarks, in Asia, Europe and the U.S. For more than 30 years, Microban has been manufacturing AEGIS, an odor control tech- nology for apparel and footwear, and is the sole owner of its antimicrobial product registration in Canada, China, Europe and the U.S.

Champion Thread Promotes Matt Poovey to President Champion Thread Company, maker of industrial sewing threads, engineered yarns, and other textile and sewn prod- ucts supplies, has named Matt Poovey President of the Gastonia, NC-based firm. “The resurgence of soft goods manufacturing in the United States and across the Americas has fueled our strong growth in recent years. This has empowered us to accelerate innovation of existing products, expand into new products, and increase market share,” said Poovey. In the new role, Poovey will extend his current sales and operations duties to include responsibility for all day-to-day activi- ties. He assumes the position from his father and company founder Bob Poovey, who will continue to actively serve as CEO. Matt Poovey also cur- rently serves as a Director and Vice President of SEAMS, the National Association for the Sewn Products Industry. O

18 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2017 textileinsight.com Insect Repellency Extreme Waterproof/Breathable Antimicrobial Moisture Wicking UV Protection Water Repellency Sustainable fabrics Made in America

We’re more than just a textile company.

HARD TO BELIEVE? Stop by at our upcoming tradeshows and see our latest innovative fabric technologies for yourself. OR, Salt Lake City PGA, Orlando ISPO, Munich booth # MR150A booth # 7149 booth # B5.118

@burlington1923 | burlington.com | 336.379.6220 FOOTWEAR | ACTIVE LIFESTYLE For Both Style and Performance, Knit Uppers Are Footwear’s Latest Must-Have. By Jennifer Ernst Beaudry

Knit Knack

nitted uppers burst onto the footwear scene in The next evolution of 2012, when Nike debuted Nike’s pioneering Flyknit its Flyknit woven tech- material debuted this fall K with the $200 LunarEpic nology ahead of the London Olympic Flyknit Shield style, which Games and Adidas released its uses a DWR-coated Primeknit material. (The fact that TPU yarn and marries it both techniques were one-piece con- to a moisture-repelling structions using interwoven yarns internal bootie to create an all-weather runner. was, not surprisingly, the subject of a court battle ultimately won after a German court tossed Nike’s patent on the process.) Today, the flexibil- ity and adaptability of the knitted fabrics and the increasing avail- ability of new yarns and weaving techniques — to say nothing of the red-hot fashion appeal of the close- fitted, sock-like uppers — has made wovens a go-to for an increasingly broad swath of brands. Consumers are flocking to knit styles that are designed to perform in the gym as well as on the street. O

Adidas’ latest knit, set to debut in 2017 is Biosteel, an APL’s TechLoom technology, seen here on the $165 TechLoom The new $100 Revel casual runner from Brooks, debuting in engineering fiber that’s 15 percent lighter than conventional Phantom running style, uses performance fabrics in a seamless Fall ’17, is the brand’s first to feature a flat-knit knit, made with synthetic fibers — and it’s completely biodegradable. one-piece upper for a snug fit with four-way stretch. a hot-melt yarn that resists stretching.

Hoka One One’s $115 Hupana speed trainer for Spring ‘17 Puma is bringing its evoKnit technology into the lifestyle The $160 UA SpeedForm Gemini 3 RE by Under Armour for features a seamless upper with the brand’s first open-knit area with the $110 Ignite EvoKnit Lo style for Spring ’17. It Spring ’17 features the brand’s Threadborne knit technology designed for breathability. will feature heathered sweater-like color packages. in the midfoot for breathable but supportive fit.

20 • Textile Insight ~ January/FebruaryMonth/Month 2017 2017 textileinsight.com

FOOTWEAR | MIDSOLES Outdoor Brands Adopt an Athletic Approach to Upgrade an Underfoot Experience. By Jennifer Ernst Beaudry

SNEAKER SENSE

The appeal is in marrying athletic midsole technology with a classic outdoor silhouette.

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t’s no secret that sneakers feeling more and more like classic and in Fall ’17 there’s this cross- 1. Hi-Tec Altitude Alypina Mid boot. 2. have become the go-to look running shoes, whether they look linking of features and functionality Salomon Outpath Pro GTX. 3. Timberland Flyroam Leather Hiker. 4. The North Face for a whole generation of the part or not. and how that combines with sneak- Enduras TR. 5. Hi-Tec V-Lite Wild-Life. consumers; for work or Here’s how brands are inno- ers. We’re both feeding off each 6. Salomon Outpath GTX. 7. Timberland play, these days individu- vating around materials to give other.” Flyroam Hiker. als turn to the comfort and outdoor a new athletic feel. One major result of that springyI underfoot feel of their cross-pollination is AeroCore, a they’ve been influenced by have favorite athletic shoes. And out- Timberland AeroCore proprietary PU-based midsole been very athletic. The colors and door brands have noticed. Energy System material that Duffy describes as more athletic styling resonated Heading into 2017, more and If you ask Gregg Duffy, senior “really cushy, really comfortable, with them,” said Lance Taylor, more outdoor brands are taking director of performance foot- really durable.” The AeroCore U.S. commercial manager for foot- inspiration from the ride and feel wear for Stratham, NH-based Energy System sole design, which wear, Salomon. “We’re the athletic of athletic styles. However this new Timberland, having athletic cross is highlighted in the Flyroam outdoor brand, so we’re poised to generation of performance shoe into the outdoor word makes noth- collection of sneaker boots for take advantage of that shift from isn’t letting the sneaker influence ing but sense. men and women for Fall ’17, uses day hikers to using more athletic stop at just the upper. In fact, for “There’s a really heavy athletic the high-rebound material for materials.” some brands, the appeal is in mar- trend right now, and the consum- cushioning, and adds a rubber Chief among them is Opal, a poly- rying athletic midsole technology er’s acknowledgement of heritage outsole for durability. The sleek, propylene compound central to with a classic outdoor silhouette. is as strong as ever. It’s never aggressive design language of the anti-vibration VIBE Technology With new midsole compounds, been as good or as popular to be the outsole package is definitely midsole system developed by constructions and technologies an athletic brand, and it’s never athletic inspired. As is the feel- former Asics biomechanics guru that borrow an aesthetic and been as good and as popular to be ing underfoot, even if the uppers Simon Barthold. The cushy Opal springy cushioning from the ath- Timberland right now,” he said. leverage the brand’s boot making foam makes it debut in the $150 letic world, trail runners, hikers “Strict heritage looks are giving heritage. ultra-cushioned trail runner Sense and even outdoor casual shoes are way to unexpected combinations, “It’s a really nice merge Pro Max style for Spring ’17, where between the comfort and speed it’s dropped into the heel and and lightness of athletic and the forefoot impact zones to reduce “Strict heritage looks are giving way to crafted leathers that Timberland the vibrations that add to muscle unexpected combinations, and in Fall ’17 there’s is known for,” he said. fatigue, and encapsulated by a this cross-linking of features and functionality denser foam to keep the foot stable Salomon Opal and provide greater energy return. and how that combines with sneakers.” “What we’ve found is that the Coming full circle, the technology GREGG DUFFY, SENIOR DIRECTOR OF PERFORMANCE FOOTWEAR, TIMBERLAND millennial customer, the brands makes its way back to the pure ath-

22 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2017 textileinsight.com 4

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“We’re the athletic outdoor brand, so we’re poised to take advantage of that shift from day hikers to using more athletic materials.” LANCE TAYLOR, U.S. COMMERCIAL MANAGER FOR FOOTWEAR, SALOMON letic world for Fall ’17, when it will product is what counts. “In previ- be found in the brand’s new Sonic ous seasons, product has been and Sonic Pro 2 road shoes. heavily athletic orientated, and there was a huge push in this direc- The North Face XTRAfoam tion with very bright color accents Developed with extensive insight and extreme design details,” he from sponsored athlete Dylan said. “However, as this product hit Bowman, The North Face is bring- retail, the consumer for the most ortholite.com ing its cushioned Enduras TR trail part didn’t make the adoption. We runner to shelves for spring ’17, believe products need to be familiar and with it, its new XTRAfoam to the outdoor audience in order technology. Consisting of a softer to entice them, with silhouettes durometer of EVA in the sweet spot they already understand, and then Uncover the ultimate comfort with OrthoLite underfoot and surrounded by a surpass their expectations by bring- insoles, the secret inside millions of pairs of shoes. stiffer durometer of EVA acting as ing athletic influence into these by Our innovative open-cell foam technology boasts a perimeter containing it, the $130 delivering added benefits.” a compression set of less than 5% over the life style gives runners the softness And at the top of the list? of your shoes and provides maximum comfort they want for long runs but keeps Comfort. For 2017, Hi-Tec partnered the foot stable. with OrthoLite on the upgraded with every step. Impressions+ footbed, which brings Hi-Tec Ortholite Impressions+ the immediate comfort of memory Luke Schnacke, product, mar- foam into outdoor performance keting & eCommerce director for hiking and multisport silhouettes Portland, OR-based Hi-Tec, said the but provides arch support for ath- athletic influence on the outdoor letic looks like fall’s $130 Altitude has evolved, and the feel of the Alypina Mid boot. O textileinsight.com January/February 2017 ~ Textile Insight • 23 SOURCING | TRADE AGREEMENTS

Trade Talk Floats

By Bob McGee to include many of the benefits of the TPP in future bilateral agreements,” Lamar added, “including cutting large tariffs and he Trans-Pacific Partnership trade deal may be dead on protecting intellectual property rights.” arrival in a Trump Administration, but key components Six weeks ahead of his inauguration as the 45th U.S. president, of the long negotiated but never ratified pact could move Trump made it clear that he will not be bullied by China although T forward in new bilateral trade agreements. he offered no additional clarity about his campaign threats to brand That is a positive as the debate chatter over trade heats up, the country “a currency manipulator” as soon as he takes office and including the future of the North American Free Trade Agreement slap a 45 percent tariff on its U.S. exports. The latter likely sent shiv- (NAFTA) and possible repercussions from the President-elect’s ers down the spines of many in the sporting goods industry who pushback against the decades-old One-China policy. Any NAFTA still rely on China for a majority of their wholesale goods. withdrawal, which would require Congressional approve, would Still, not everyone has been rattled by Trump’s hard posi- undoubtedly force retailers that import from either Canada or tions on trade or has had apprehension about his early Cabinet Mexico to rethink supply chains and possibly raise prices to offset picks. The Outdoor Industry Association said it believed it higher tariffs. would have “a productive and collaborative relationship” with “While we are disappointed with President-elect Trump’s state- Congresswoman Cathy McMorris Rodgers (R-WA), the likely nomi- ment that he will withdraw the U.S. from the TPP… we remain nee as the next Secretary of the Interior to replace Sally Jewell. bullish on Vietnam, which will continue to be an important source The OIA points out that McMorris Rodgers understands public of apparel, footwear and travel goods for the global market,” said lands and waters are the foundation of the $646 billion outdoor Stephen Lamar, Executive Vice President of the American Apparel recreation economy, represents several outdoor businesses in her & Footwear Association. district and was an original co-sponsor of the Outdoor REC Act. “Access to global markets and global supply chains is essential Signed into law by President Obama, the legislation ensures the for the success and competitiveness of the U.S. apparel and foot- outdoor recreation industry is included in the U.S. gross domestic wear industry, and we encourage the incoming administration product (GDP). O

24 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2017 textileinsight.com CONFIDENCE IN TEXTILES ADVERTISEMENT

How Performance Comes Together

ootwear and apparel brands expect today’s materials to multi-task, delivering not just one performance feature but instead a roster of attributes. Lubrizol’s portfolio of new technologies and revolution- ary materials keeps pace with this strong industry trend. “We are listening to our customers and their consumers, and additional multi-functionality is the mantra,” says Cathy FKnowles, global manager, performance apparel, Lubrizol. Innovative, ver- satile textiles that offer cooling, durability and stretch are setting a new standard in performance and active lifestyle garments and footwear. Lubrizol also recognizes the importance of providing more sustainable materials. As a member of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), the company supports a common approach to measure and reduce environmental impact of materials for apparel and footwear. In addition, Lubrizol has completed a full Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) to quantify the reduced impact of its breakthrough stretch fiber X4zol™-J. Lubrizol has depth and breadth throughout the value chain with a platform of performance solutions that includes resins, fibers, films, adhesives, foams and coatings. Working directly with footwear and apparel brands, Lubrizol is also engaged in fabric care technologies, digital printing, formulations, textile processing and footwear manufacturing. Here’s an overview of how Lubrizol innovation brings exceptional perfor- mance and comfort properties to apparel and footwear: Fibers Lubrizol’s new revolutionary elastomeric fiber, X4zol™-J, is bringing innovation to the Performance Apparel industry. Applications for fabrics with X4zol™-J include performance athletic apparel, base layer, athleisure, intimate apparel, shapewear and stretch denim. WHO WE ARE X4zol™-J fiber is made from thermo-plastic poly- urethane (TPU) resin, available exclusively from The Lubrizol Corporation, a Berkshire Hathaway company, Lubrizol and our partner network for circular, warp knit is a global materials science leader that provides solutions and denim fabrics, and seamless garments. Fabrics with X4zol™-J offer balanced stretch and recovery, to optimize the quality, performance and value of customers’ comfortable compression and breathability, for products while reducing their environmental impact. exceptional wearer fit and comfort. Lubrizol combines decades of polymer and material science X4zol™-J fiber is produced without solvents and with the capability of being recycled in fabric form. capabilities to tackle the industry’s toughest challenges. (See opposite page for more about X4zol™-J fiber.) Our portfolio of specialty polymers, resins, compounds and additives deliver innovative solutions for performance Adhesives Lubrizol recently introduced the Pearlbond™ footwear, textile and apparel markets. Thermoplastic Polyurethane (TPU) 300 Series We offer one of the broadest portfolios of engineered for hot melt adhesives (HMAs). Plasticizer- polymers available today includi ng resins that are bio-based1, free, the Pearlbond 300 series is designed to provide soft hand feel with high elasticity and 2 recyclable , light stable, flame retardant, adhesive, chemically good wash resistance. resistant, optically clear and fast cycling. Our worldwide Coatings network includes formulation design, manufacturing and R&D. The Performance Coatings group offers a world- Let Lubrizol show you how performance comes together. class portfolio of water-based resins, polymers and additives for demanding multi-functional To Learn More: textile applications. Lubrizol coating technologies help www.lubrizol.com or contact [email protected] fabrics performance in ways beyond how they do in their natural state. This includes combinations of For Further Information: flame retardance, durability, stretch restriction and Tefron LTD, Industrial Center Teradyon, Misgav 20179, Israel thermal regulation as well as a range of look-and-feel www.tefron.com. characteristics. Q

1 Bio-based content as certified in accordance with ASTM D-6866 2 Recyclability is based on access to a readily available standard recycling program that supports such materials. Products may not be recyclable in all areas. Garments with X4zol™-J have balanced 3600 compression for enhanced fit and comfort. ADVERTISEMENT

The Power of Partnership: Lubrizol Teams with Tefron for Next Generation Comfort Compression efron is one of Lubrizol’s key global partners for X4zol™-J fiber. “I’m always looking for breakthroughs in yarns, so when I came across a fabric with X4zol™-J fiber, I immediately saw the possibilities and all the wheels started turning,” states Sigi Rabinowicz, Tefron’s Global Innovation Adviser. Tefron is a state-of-the-art textile company known worldwide for expertise in body size and seamless garment Tinnovation and manufacturing. The Israeli-based company has a strong presence in active wear and performance apparel, as well as a leadership position in intimates. “We are always looking for new solutions and re-inventing product,” Rabino- wicz explains. “Not just a new fabric or a new feel, or new print or a new color, but something totally different.” Tefron views X4zol™-J fiber as a difference maker. “There is no other yarn that offers the fit, feel and functionality of X4zol™-J fiber. It has a lot of pluses that other elastanes do not,” states Rabinowicz. Advantages Beyond Traditional Spandex What makes X4zol™-J fiber different from conventional spandex has to do with the shape of the fiber and how it is produced. X4zol™-J is a monofilament fiber that is finer and stronger than traditional elastomeric fibers and enables thinner and lighter weight fabric with unique stretch and recovery and comfort features. Traditional spandex fibers are multi-filament. “Knitted garments made with multi-filament spandex tend to heat the body because the fabric doesn’t let the sweat out,” explains Rabinowicz. “But when you knit X4zol™-J fiber it has inherent breathability and air movement, so the garment feels more comfortable.” The X4zol™-J fiber gets its name from a stretch/strain curve that resembles a J shape characteristic of a softer, more consistent, and balanced stretch. Ravi Vedula, global market development manager for Lubrizol explains that the physical proof of a fiber’s unique stretch properties is its stretch/strain curve. “An S-shaped stress/ strain curve illustrates an initial resistance to stretch, or elongation; a period of low resistance to continued stretch; and then a rapid increase in resistance to the point of full elongation, or breakage.” X4zol™-J fiber also features sustainable properties. “If you can say to a manu- facturer this product is solvent-free, and recyclable, that is huge for eco-minded companies, and ultimately will be important to everyone,” says Rabinowicz. “The industry is much more conscious of ingredients and managing chemicals now. Awareness of sustainability is on the rise.” Consumers today are looking for products with added value. “Consumers want products that are lighter, thinner, softer, more breathable and comfortable to wear,” says Gil Shimon, Tefron’s CEO. “Tefron is always ahead of the curve with innova- tion and bringing to market a new technology. That’s why working with Lubrizol’s X4zol™-J fiber fits us very well.”Q

Fabrics made with X4zol™-J feel weightless on the body with “easy on, easy off” comfort compression combined with cooling and contouring benefits.

Benefits of X4zol™-J in Fabrics

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Fabric Elongation (%) STATE OF THE MARKET iiiiNvEnNvEnNvEnNvEnTTTToLoGyoLoGyoLoGyoLoGy WHAT NOW?

Execs Look Ahead with Eyes on New Opportunities for Outdoor Performance.

extile execs point to seismic shifts as “As e-commerce intensifies, borders are basically eliminated,” well as subtle influences that are direc- explains Joyce. “You’re now talking globalization at point of sale. tional in how the industry goes forward Go to Amazon, for example, and any global brand can be found. from here. Interestingly, weather, once a This intensifies competition,” adds Joyce, “If consumers can dominant “make or break” type element buy whatever they want, at a touch of button, then that levels in this business now plays a lesser role. the playing field.” He concludes, “The question then is, how to Sure it’s helpful if winter comes early and be different.” stays cold, but execs concur that there With today’s proliferation of technologies, differentiation through Tare bigger conversations to be had. For instance, how and why product is crucial. New PrimaLoft products that address this consumers shop; where and how to connect with today’s con- theme include PrimaLoft Gold Active, designed for lightweight sumer; what gaps can be filled in a maturing outdoor category; and warmth, breathability and versatility, and the new PrimaLoft where performance makes the most sense, and how to deliver it. Black Insulation ThermoPlume, the industry’s highest-performing In terms of trends, authenticity reigns supreme and a genuine blowable synthetic insulation with the look and feel of natural brand identity is critical. New business models are taking shape down. Says Joyce, “This is our most down-like product, and has with transparency top of mind. Testing is key, as quantifying per- been our most sampled product in last 10 plus years.” formance is a differentiator in today’s crowded sea-of-sameness Joyce asserts that today’s chase for authenticity is a reaction to product selection. Strategies focused on partnerships and col- globalization. And what group has made authenticity their mantra? laboration are powerful because these days, relationships matter. Millennials. “They want authenticity. They buy on necessity and And yet, with all these challenges jostling the business world, how it relates to an experience,” says Joyce. “Authenticity is a execs from leading textile firms say the same thing: In times of game changer in terms of how and why millennials buy.” change, opportunities await. Joyce is joined by other textile execs on this point. “Growth at Here’s how textile specialists are inventing the future of out- the macro level goes to millennials, and how they value perfor- door performance. mance and experience it,” states Cindy McNaull, global marketing director, Cordura brand. She describes millennials’ “less is more” Fundamental Shifts, Authenticity & the “m” Factor type culture that is based on smart purchases made by savvy “We are certainly in a state of change,” states PrimaLoft president shoppers interested in knowing where product is made and what Mike Joyce. “There has been more change in the past two years it’s made of, too. In other words, explains McNaull, it’s all about than in last 10.” When it comes to fundamental shifts, Joyce high- “the hunt for authenticity.” lights globalization and millennials as the biggest forces at play. Cordura celebrates its 50-year anniversary in 2017, and

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according to McNaull new product launches are all strong customer relationship are finding success in about how “heritage meets innovation.” One example is today’s market. “Weather is a factor and it’s been a partnership with Cone Mills to launch a special 50th cold, but the bigger conversation is who can win with Anniversary edition Cordura Selvidge Denim collection, the consumer. That’s what’s most important today,” sourced from Cone’s White Oak facility. This is the first Parkes continued, adding, “just look what Patagonia Cordura Selvidge Denim ever produced. did. The company made a statement on Monday W.L. Gore takes a scientific approach to authenticity. before Thanksgiving and then sold $10 million worth “Textiles on a global The company continues to invest heavily in R&D and of product on Black Friday.” basis, not unlike as such recently opened two facilities in Delaware, Parkes says this shows how much contemporary other industries, estimated as a multi-million dollar investment. The consumers want to be part of something. They want is on the edge of new Biophysics and Heat & Flame Protection labs to connect deeply and personally with companies that change. There are allow Gore engineers to measure the properties of have a strong brand identity and a company culture economic drivers that component materials, Gore laminates and fully con- they can believe in and relate to. “It is relationships, we’re seeing in the structed garments, and footwear in new, expanded relationships, relationships,” says Parkes, who cites manufacturing, and in and relevant conditions. Arc’teryx and Duluth Trading as two other brands, the brand level, that The state of the art Environmental Chamber, with lab like Patagonia, that by staying strong to their core are driving change.” and brand new Rain Tower, goes way beyond traditional are succeeding with today’s consumers. BOB BUCK, CHEMOURS testing. Consider that the Environmental Chamber can What does this mean for textile suppliers? How can recreate between 85-95 percent of the environments they connect? Execs say story telling through brand on the earth’s surface to evaluate fabric performance partnership is an emerging business model that is in specific conditions and collect quantitative data on gaining industry traction. Joyce, of PrimaLoft, states the protection provided, and the comfort of the wearer. that, “If we can work with a brand, find a common “Climate comfort solutions,” is how Gore associate strategy, and totally align our visions, then that is Matt Decker describes an overview of what’s going on at very powerful.” the new Biophysics lab. Decker states, “Comfort is really Schoeller has long had strong relationships with complex. We try to provide science and quantifiable data established outdoor brands, and that continues. of comfort.” All aspects of comfort are considered in the However, Schoeller president Stephen Kerns sees lab, including thermal, ergonomic, sensorial and aesthetic, growth opportunities in new markets, as well as new along with what Decker calls the “4 Ps of Comfort: Physics, hybrid business models. Physiology, Psychology and Perception.” “We are seeing a lot of growth in high-end garments “There is a healthy tension for faster to market, but designed for direct to consumer, from large to medium- with quality product,” says Decker. “Learning how to sized brands, to small-scale brands, to even people provide the most comfort for the broadest range of in the early stages of creating brands,” comments individuals will meet the needs of today’s marketplace.” Kerns. “These new style garments have unbelievable, Gore’s new Heat & Flame Protection Sciences lab exquisite looks, with technical performance, whether evaluates all elements of burn protection including it’s 4-way stretch, or a cool hand, or other functional flame resistance, thermal insulation and thermal fabric technologies.” He mentions brands like Alps & stability. Four times the size of the previous lab, the Meter and North Sails apparel as driving this “luxe” new space focuses on end use for military, firefight- category as well as the Arc’teryx Veilance collection ers, industrial and workwear. Noting that obviously being a fit for this trend. there are no user trials possible, Gore associate Shawn “These high-end, “technical fashion” garments are Riley, explains, “We want to get as close as possible very aspirational and urban,” explains Kerns. “And we to the real experience and look to speed development see this as continuing to be a hot category.” Kerns is in these markets.” also watching as traditional retail combines with direct- to-consumer selling to form a new hybrid business Connecting With Consumers model. “Direct to consumer is a move to a material & Filling Market Gaps story,” he says. “The textile gets called out online, and “We’ll have our most profitable year ever in 2016,” fabrics and technologies are highlighted as a point of says Chris Parkes, partner, national sales manager, differentiation.” Concept III Textiles. He believes companies with a Performance is being embraced in all platforms,

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according to McNaull. “We’re seeing movement toward that’s where economies are found, and people believe lifestyle and the ‘at the Mall’ type brick and mortar that aggregation creates opportunity,” states Buck. stores as well as Cordura being used in footwear,” This market movement affords the ability to control she adds. “Performance tech in footwear is happen- costs and control capabilities. Some of what we’re ing across the board, from Columbia to adidas to seeing is a natural business cycle, according to Buck, ALDO.” The new Cordura partnership with ALDO who cites DuPont as a company that went through a will launch in 2017. similar cycle of spinning off businesses. “The parent driving a “People are investing in footwear. It’s becoming As a result, Chemours is now carving out its own Range Rover looking a statement piece,” McNaull explains, “For active future. “We can control our own destiny, and business to buy a $14 fleece lifestyle, the ‘it’ accessory now is footwear.” is really good,” says Buck. Chemours colleague Lisa for his kid’s soccer Hardy agrees. Having worked with Buck at DuPont team wants to know Sustainability for All previously, she, too, asserts, “We control our des- if the factory where “Textiles on a global basis, not unlike other indus- tiny and because we are our own company we can the garment is made tries, is on the edge of change,” says Bob Buck, re-invest in our own business.” is doing right by Chemours’ Technical Fellow. “There are economic This is having positive results. “We’ve been over- employees. There is drivers that we’re seeing in the manufacturing, and whelmed with the interest in our new EcoElite product. an integrity factor.” in the brand level, that are driving change.” We are looking to expand the offering and are taking CHRIS PARKES, Within apparel and textiles, for instance, there is a a tiered approach to provide the best of the best, but CONCEPT III lot happening on the chemical side, with big players also a more price-conscious sustainable offering, so changing ownership, consolidating and expanding in that we serve the whole marketplace.” new ways. Buck mentions the consolidation of BASF Buck and Hardy believe that performance today is and Archroma, and Huntsman launching a separate made up of many levels, what they refer to as “the textiles effects business as two good examples that pyramid of performance,” and “we’re seeing that support the macro trend of industry change. sustainability is not just for the tippy top,” explains “We’re seeing more vertical integration because Hardy. “Performance means different things to dif-

A CATEGORY WITH MOMENTUM

The latest workwear CULTURAL AND INDUSTRY TRENDS ARE CONVERGING TO BRING WORKWEAR collections highlight into the spotlight in 2017. Manufacturing has been pegged as a priority of the textiles and fabric technologies that incoming administration that also seeks to put more money into infrastructure wick, stretch, and and construction jobs. USA-made and reshoring efforts continue to attract feature odor control. interest as supply chains constrict and vendors seek swift delivery with “closer to home” types of production. Outdoor is also finding workwear brands in- creasingly receptive to upping the performance factor in garments and foot- wear. The latest workwear collections highlight textiles and fabric technologies that wick, stretch, and feature odor control, in addition to FR treatment and overall durability. Brands like Carhartt, Dickies, and Duluth Trading, are grow- ing, and other companies are starting to fill in the gaps. Milwaukee Tool, for example, is a brand to watch. So, too, is the company 1620 Workwear with product aimed at a younger, active outdoor oriented demographic attracted to premium goods – along the lines of the hugely successful Yeti brand. Get

ready for “bespoke workwear.” O

32 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2017 textileinsight.com ferent people. For some performance equates to 50 Impact Technology (LIT) manufacturing methods, washes and for other’s the performance needs to while partner Bolger & O’Hearn are finding traction last one year.” in the market with its new PFC-Free DWR chemistry, Overall, there is greater receptivity to sustainability and partner Porelle takes advantage of a solar and and the advances in chemistry. “These attributes are wind to generate power. now strongly affirmed,” says Buck. “We see more and PrimaLoft has committed to more than 90 percent more brands talking not just about the product, but of product move to being post-consumer content how its made, where its made and what its made of.” within five years. “At the same time we are bound “As e-commerce Execs at Concept III recognize this trend. “There is to maintaining the same level of performance integ- intensifies, borders are much more awareness of supply chain transparency,” rity,” says Joyce. “This requires taking control of basically eliminated. comments Chris Parkes. “The parent driving a Range the supply chain, all the way to securing the raw You’re now talking Rover looking to buy a $14 fleece for his kid’s soccer material.” globalization at point of team wants to know if the factory where the garment Concludes Buck, “No question there is a ground sale. Go to Amazon, for example, and any global is made is doing right by employees. There is an swell in the B2B space that is moving apace with brand can be found. This integrity factor.” David Parkes, Concept III founder, green chemistry. But change takes time. The com- intensifies competition.” sees growth in a variety of sustainability efforts. “This mitment by suppliers and desire is there, and it is category has matured beyond organic and recycled,” slowly building up to the mainstream. Mainstream MIKE JOYCE, PRIMALOFT he explains. Concept III partner Kingwhale uses Low retailers now get it.” O creora ® ® is registered trademark of the Hyosung corporation for its brand premium spandex creora Fresh is odor neutralizing spandex engineered to stay fresh all day long.

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textileinsight.com January/February 2017 ~ Textile Insight • 33 TECHNOLOGY | WEARABLES The Latest Wearable Tech Tackles Climate Change and Apparel Functionality. By Suzanne Blecher FUTURESMART

ith chilling snow forecast ments like engineering textiles adjusting easier one day, and warm sun- “The Ambiance to our body temperature is something I’m Skirt has 24 shine the next, weather integrated lights really looking forward to,” said Wassong, is a problem for outdoor that fade in and adding, “We are going to feel more comfort- out to recorded brands. Forecasters can sounds of a able in our clothing.” W river, wind explain fluctuations as a reason why sales Solar panels for charging devices while hiking and animals.” are off, but can do little to prevent climate or on a long bike trip and integrated sensors LINA WASSONG dips from happening over and over again. in sportswear are a couple of other useful Yet with rapid advances in e-textiles, Erica developments in the athletic and outdoor Orange, COO of The Future Hunters, sees industries, Wassong mentioned. things changing. “In the future, wearables is not going to be about that which is con- Tracking Fitness, and the Weather spicuously worn, but about the injectables In May 2015, Google and Levi Strauss & Co. woven into our clothing,” said the exec at unveiled Project Jacquard, whose goal is to a November event hosted by the Fashion “confront the historical limitations of wear- Group International (FGI). able technologies by decoupling the touch At the talk, entitled “Future Shock: What’s interface from the digital device.” Jacquard Ahead,” Orange predicted that we will see makes garments interactive so that “simple self-cleaning and bioregulating garments and gestures like tapping or swiping send a wire- accessories in the future, as well as crossover less signal to the wearer’s mobile device and with artificial intelligence, thanks in part to activate functionality, such as silencing phone innovation from tech firms. calls or sending a text message,” notes Levi’s One example that is in development is Unzipped blog. Kenzen’s ECHO Smart Patch, which has real Levi’s was one of the first denim brands to time sweat analysis that helps consumers toy with nanotechnology, producing Commuter better understand their physiology. by Levi’s products featuring water resistant and dirt repellent NanoSphere “Personalized health insights and notifications help improve perfor- by Schoeller Technologies AG in 2011. All Commuter products also fea- mance, recovery and prevent injury,” according to the firm’s site. The tured Sanitized from Clariant, providing protection against odors, and patch is worn on the torso and a digital signal processor detects true 3M Scotchlite, integrating reflectivity into key areas. body motion. The next generation of uber-functional commuting garments may be As we move forward, the key for outdoor, according to ones that use data collected from smart devices including thermostats, Orange, “is helping consumers understand what the utility is cars, smartphones watches. “Wearables are tracking you and spinning all to them and make it seem less gimmicky.” kinds of data,” explained Andy Marks, president of Marks Entertainment + Media at the FGI panel. “As a marketer, you have to ask what the poten- The Fashion & Tech Connection tials are of the data, how you can leverage it, make sense of it and then At Silicon Valley Fashion Week?!, held last October in San Francisco, hyper target and bring the consumer more of what they are looking for.” designers presented new ideas in 3D printing, prosthetics, drones, and In the field of temperature, IBM recently purchased The Weather wearable technology. One T-shirt featured an LED pattern able to be Company. The teaming of the two firms will serve as the foundation for rearranged with an app. the Watson IoT Cloud platform and address issues including climate To marry fashion and technology, Marija Butkovic, creator of the Kisha change. “This rich platform provides our clients significant competitive Smart Umbrella that operates with an app to provide push notifications advantage as they link their business and sensor data with weather and when it rains, and Michelle Hua, founder of heated glove company Made other pertinent information in real-time,” notes John E. Kelly, IBM’s senior with Glove, started Women of Wearables. According to its site, “WoW vice president, cognitive solutions and research, in a 2016 release. inspires, supports and connects women in wearable tech, IoT and VR/ In November 2016, xAd, a firm that pushes app and web ads based on AR by providing visibility, support, mentorship and connections for our a user’s location, announced its planned acquisition of WeatherBug, a community through our events and wearable tech workshops.” weather application. Users can request temperature conditions for specific Women of WoW include Lina Wassong, who created an interactive locations, allowing for hyperlocal targeting by marketers. Mobile target- Equalizer Skirt that reacts to the noise level of the environment and a Frilled ing makes sense, as on average, people check their phones 150 times Dress with wings that raise and lower with the wearer’s heartbeat and each day, with 50 percent of that mobile activity taking place outside excitement level (measured by pulse via an earring). “Technical advance- the home, notes xAd. O

34 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2017 textileinsight.com

TECHNOLOGY | DIGITAL

Social Media Can Be More Than Just a Time-Suck.

Work Tech Textile Insight Asked Execs to Share their Favorite Work-Related Digital Outlets. Here’s What They Said:

their most creative. I spend many hours train- ing myself to understand people, cultures and creativity. I also lead courses around the world on this subject. How They Relate to Work: If people are empowered and free to create they always will. My job is getting as much out of the way for them to thrive and create.

Chris Koens Director Marketing, Shefit Sports Bras Faves: “StartUp” and “How I Built This.” Most every day, I check Fast Company, Inc. and Entrepreneur magazine websites, as well as their Facebook and Twitter feeds. I also stop at Runner’s World and Shape - and I get the daily download of Women’s Wear Daily. I also subscribe to several of those same masthead’s print versions and I get Google alerts. Why: “StartUp” and “How I Made This” pod- casts are heavy in inspiration - information about other people who’ve started companies and how they succeeded or failed. The maga- zines do deeper dives into what is going on in business. How They Relate to Work: Sports-related sites help me see what the competition is doing. It’s also helpful to stay on top of trend- ing topics in sports and sportswear, and to know what our customers are doing/saying/ buying. It is important to learn from other’s experiences; to listen to their successes, and their failures, and use their learnings as help- Liz Barrett Chase Heard ful pit stops on our road to success. Senior Marketing Manager, STIO Co-Founder, Howler Brothers Faves: SMCurrent, @theplaidpenguin, and the Faves: Instagram and NPR’s “How I Built This.” Evan Wert following podcasts: WNYC’s “On the Media,” Why: I follow lots of artists and style-minded President, Icebug USA “ReplyAll” and “StartUp” – both from Gimlet folks on Instagram and it always provides some Faves: Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram. We Media. fresh inspiration. When I get stuck creatively it also try to use blogs, but have found them to Why: “ReplyAll” is a fun exploration of the always helps me out of a rut. not produce the value if we try to use their weird world of the Internet, which keeps me How They Relate to Work: It is always enlight- affiliate programs. current on Internet culture. “StartUp” is like ening to hear about other entrepreneurs’ path Why: Facebook seems to produce the best a reality TV show, featuring the challenges, to success. It’s a definite motivator and place results for us as it’s more of a community and victories and heartbreaks of businesses in of inspiration, and helps give perspective that works best for what Icebug is all about. various stages of development. It keeps me to the big picture when you are down in the Instagram works well for a segment of our fueled and inspired to dig in with young trenches. users (OCR/Obstacle Course Racing Athletes), businesses. to be able to share quickly what they are doing How They Relate to Work: The daily email Treya Klassen and where. from Social Media Current keeps me on top VP Of Product Design + Brand, RYU How They Relate to Work: This allows us to of the constant flow and changes of social Faves: LeadingBlog from LeadershipNow, reach our end users more often and continue media technology. The Plaid Penguin is a Harvard Business Review, The Design Blog to build a strong personal relationship with design, branding agency I used to work with and Design Cloud on Tumblr. I also follow car each of them. We have fun with it, also we in Charlotte, NC and I follow them for graphic design and urban house design. provide them with useful information, events design, brand experience and typography Why: I have two main areas I focus on really going on in their area, and a chance to meet inspiration. - leading people and developing people to be and talk to other users just like them. O

36 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2017 textileinsight.com APRIL 26-27th 2017 | MUNICH KICKOFF SUMMER 2018 UPDATE WINTER 2018/19

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On Your Mark

heck out these headlines: “No Signs of Slowing in Global In the run category that translates to lightweight performance pieces Menswear Market,” “Men’s Clothing Outpacing Camera, that transcend the traditional runners’ uniform. Functional fabrics that Computers and Beer in Growth,” and “The Rise of Man keep pace with moisture management, stretch, temperature regulation Shopping.” Then figure in some industry stats: Research and anti-odor technology are out in force for next season. A heightened C from Barclays shows that menswear sales are projected to focus on combining soft-to-the-touch comfort with a slim fit and modern reach $40B by 2019. Morgan Stanley estimates that the activewear industry good looks is also important. Together these design elements elevate could add $83 billion in sales by 2020. And clearly men’s fitness is on the men’s run apparel and accessories to a new level of sophistication. move. This trend came to light at The Running Event (TRE) 2016, an annual So what do men want? Performance for sure, but increasingly men trade show now in it’s 11th year, that hosts run specialty retailers, want duds that feel good, have a dash of style, and offer a fresh take on major footwear and accessory brands and manufacturers contributing workout wear. A recent entry in the online blog of EDITED explains that to North America’s $4.5 billion running industry. Organized by Textile “Sneaker culture, relaxed modes of dressing and technical capabilities Insight parent, Formula4 Media, the recent event attracted over 850 have changed menswear, potentially for good. Activewear’s profile lift buyers and 278 exhibitors eager to learn what’s new for 2017. means there’s a greater range of options, more suited to functional lives.” Here are a handful of products on track for the coming season:

Balega: The company’s 2Undr Performance: The Craft Sportswear: The Rhone: The Mako Run Ashmei: This high-end Silver sock gets its 1st Layer PowerShift is Active Intensity Baselayer Short bumps up the Brit active brand is now functional value from based on feedback from is made with performance performance factor crossing the Great Pond an encapsulating professional athletes with grade polyester stretch with a XT2 compression with a classy collection compressive mid-foot a high-tech poly blend, fabric and features liner and outer fabric of apparel that features arch and silver liner with quick dry fabric that precise body mapping for blend of durable nylon/ super-fine merino wool. inherent anti-bacterial provides support with a temperature regulation poly/spandex. An above The line ranges from properties, and gains style compression-like feel. during workouts. A the knee length and waterproof outer layers, points for a sleek look and seamless construction minimalist design are on to comfy mid-layers and cool colorway. eliminates chafing to trend. base layers plus shorts enhance comfort. and accessories, all sporting true athletic colorways.

38 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2017 textileinsight.com SAXX Underwear Nets Major Investment

nly weeks before and Nike executive, welcomed the

its ventilated, strike investment in the company, which SAXX innovative compression short is in September was forecast to exceed underwear is slated to hit specialty $40 million in 2016 revenues, calling seamlessly run shops in January, SAXX’s new product pipeline robust integrated into O the brand’s new SAXX Underwear Co. landed a nearly and suggesting customer support performance $50 million private equity investment and enthusiasm for the men’s active Kinetic Run Short. from Los Angeles-based Brentwood lifestyle brand has never been higher. Associates. The Vancouver company, “We will continue to support owned by No Limits Group since the company (SAXX) in such areas 2010, intends to use the cash infusion as product innovation, targeted to broaden its product portfolio, print and digital marketing, and enhance its digital presence and operational excellence across its expand internationally. No Limits global distribution and fulfillment Group investors retain majority platform,” said Eric Reiter, a partner ownership in SAXX following the deal at Brentwood. with Brentwood, whose other current SAXX, which has exceeded 75 and previous apparel investments percent annual revenue growth since include Allen Edmonds, Ariat 2012, counts World Series champion International and Filson. pitcher Jake Arrieta and surfer Mark Tim Bartels, CEO of SAXX, a Healey as wearers of its product and former Columbia Sportswear, Keen endorsers. O

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textileinsight.com January/February 2017 ~ Textile Insight • 39 MADE IN AMERICA | NORTH CAROLINA Flexibility and Creativity Make for an IDEAL Business.

IDEAL is a family-owned business with 2nd and 3rd generation family members actively involved in the company. Founder Elie Gut, shown here, and on the next page, CEO Ralph Gut between his son’s Jeff, left, and Steven, right.

ong before the phrase backpacks, military, uniforms, zipper automatically aligns and locks “Think locally, act glob- work-wear, and specialty,” explains itself into place, affording users ease ally” became a popular company CEO Ralph Gut. Walking and speed of use. And for snows- L business mantra, IDEAL the factory floor recently Gut points ports fans, outerwear with MagZip Fastener Corporation was putting out different areas of the vertical eliminates the need to remove bulky IT! the strategy to work. By maintain- zipper operation as he stops to gloves and mitts in order to fasten. ing a strong regional presence here greet employees along the way. IDEAL worked closely with Under in the States while continuing to Here narrow fabric for zipper tape is Armour on the development of expand its reach around the world, made, processed, dyed and finished. MagZip, relying on the strong rela- IDEAL is now celebrating 80 years Zipper components – sliders and tionship between the two companies successfully manufacturing an teeth – also made here. with executives working hand in assortment of product lines for a “We do everything from basics to hand to create MagZip. wide variety of industries. sophisticated products. We always IDEAL is a family-owned, domestic try to have something new and dif- From the Start zipper operation and the second ferent,” states Gut, who highlights Established in 1936 in New York largest zipper manufacturer two recent introductions: StretchTek City, by Jacob and Elie Gut, Ralph worldwide. Oxford, NC is the U.S. and MagZip. Gut’s grandfather and father respec- headquarters, where two plants StetchTek, as its name implies, tively, IDEAL continues to be a family have a combined space of approxi- features stretch fabric to allow more business. Ralph Gut, who has been mately 175,000 square feet. One give without sacrificing strength. at IDEAL for over 50 years, and CEO facility is dedicated to zippers in an Used in a boot application, for exam- since 1984, is joined by his sons, extensive range of styles, colors and ple, StretchTek provides stretch and Steven and Jeff, who serve as com- materials; the other site, located just recovery for enhanced comfort and pany co-presidents. down the road, manufacturers Hook fit. Used in luggage, StetchTek allows Manufacturing moved from New & Eye Tape for the intimate apparel travelers to get those extra essen- York to Oxford In 1966. “When I industry. IDEAL employs 225 people tials into an already stuffed suitcase started in the business and doing in Oxford and approximately 2500 securely. sales I traveled often in the South people in its overseas operations. The MagZip launched in 2014 in and Southeast,” explains Gut. “Our zipper business does a lot an exclusive with Under Armour. “Oxford, NC was not far from in denim, outerwear, and footwear Like StretchTek, MagZip is an inno- Martinsville, VA where there was lots as well automotive seating, furni- vative, sophisticated zipper with of manufacturing going on in those ture, home furnishings, luggage/ performance features. The magnetic days with many vertical plants.”

40 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2017 textileinsight.com An IDEAL Timeline

1936 IDEAL Fastener Corporation founded in New York

1956 On its 20th anniversary IDEAL introduces Everzip snag-free zipper

1959 IDEAL introduces Mytie Mite, #2.2 miniature zippers in brass and nickel

1964 IDEAL zippers are used to zip together the Astroturf field at the Houston Astrodome, Houston, TX

1966 IDEAL moves manufacturing headquarters to Oxford, NC

1972 IDEAL acquires Prentice Zipper Company, a leading maker of metal zippers for workwear and denim jeans

1985 IDEAL manufacturers the longest zipper in the world with over 12,640 teeth and presents it to President Ronald Reagan

1989 IDEAL acquires Acme Die Casting & Slider Company

1991 On the 50th anniversary of U.S. entry into WWII IDEAL is recognized by the National Air and Space Museum of the Smithsonian Institute

1996 IDEAL acquires Scovill Zipper and Conmar Zipper from Scovill Fasteners

1997 IDEAL establishes IDEAL Fastener Asia, Ltd, in Hong Kong

2001 IDEAL opens sales offices in Bangladesh, Dubai, India, Indonesia and Taiwan Oxford’s Industrial Park was just being have a U.S. factory. But what makes built when IDEAL set up shop; a sleeping us strong is that we’re global. We can 2001 bag manufacturer and dressmaker were supply worldwide. Better, newer tech- IDEAL’s high-tech, fire-retardant zippers are used to launch NASA TITAN IV missile neighbors then. nology is what it’s all about. Specialty 2002 Sitting in his Oxford office, Gut talks products that we make here, we can IDEAL opens sales offices in Korea and Pakistan easily about fun times in the 1960s when export around the world.” domestic producers for apparel, foot- 2005 wear, and accessories dotted the U.S. Looking Forward IDEAL opens sales office in The Netherlands landscape. IDEAL handled some unique Ralph Gut identifies flexibility and 2006 requests for zippers over the years. creativity as two major strengths of the IDEAL opens factories in Chennai, India and Jiangsu, China For example, IDEAL zippers were used company. “We can get something done to zip together the Astroturf field at quickly,” states Gut. “If you come to us, 2007 the Houston Astrodome in 1964 as the and we believe in your product and your IDEAL opens sales offices in the United Kingdom, France and Italy. IDEAL opens stadium was built for baseball, not foot- story, we will bend over backwards to another plant in Guangdong, China bringing its total to three factories in China. ball. “You figure that it had to go from make it happen.” 2008 second base to the outfield; that was a And like many domestic producers, IDEAL opens sales offices in Vietnam, Thailand, Sri Lanka and Guangzhou, China big zipper,” says Gut. being innovative is a priority. Gut relates To augment domestic sales, IDEAL a story from early in his career when he 2013 was ahead of the competition look- was trying to solve a color/dye problem. IDEAL opens factory in Jakarta, Indonesia ing abroad. In total, IDEAL operates “The executive said to me, ‘you need to 2014 factories, offices and/or distribution get creative.’ And that stuck,” said Gut. IDEAL releases MagZip, the first patented zipper using magnets and launches facilities in over 20 countries in North Asked about the country’s focus with Under Armour and Central America, the Middle East, on domestic manufacturing and the Europe and Asia. Factories owned and industry’s reshoring efforts, Gut says he 2014 operated currently by IDEAL abroad senses a “newfound excitement” and is IDEAL introduces the LightRail zipper for 2014 Sochi Winter Olympics and launches include three factories in China, and “cautiously optimistic” about the future. with Columbia Sportswear one factory each in India and Indonesia. On the day of this interview, a 2015 Slider making, chain making, weaving, banner stating “We’re Hiring,” hung IDEAL expands its manufacturing operations in NC by adding 50,000 square dyeing, electro-plating/enameling, in outside IDEAL’s plant. With Fall 2017 feet of space to its existing operations. house testing labs and zipper assembly product ramping up, seasonal hires are done at these locations. were needed and candidates were 2016 IDEAL celebrates 50 years manufacturing in Oxford, NC and its 80th year in business Steven Gut explains, “It’s critical to being interviewed. O textileinsight.com January/February 2017 ~ Textile Insight • 41 TRENDSETTER Margaret Dunford Puts Textiles to the Test in a Four-Wheeled Environment. By Suzanne Blecher

Automotive Artist

f you fancy your car’s interior, Sage Automotive Interiors (formerly Milliken Automotive Division) most likely had something to do with it. The 68-year old firm works with customers including Honda, Toyota, Kia, Ford and General Motors to develop and manufacture innovative automotive bodycloth and Iheadliners.Margaret Dunford, Director of Design for Sage Automotive Interiors, manages the firm’s North American design team, and works hand-in-hand with its additional design teams around the globe. “Global trend development is really much more powerful than just talking about what’s going on here,” said the exec. Textile Insight spoke with Dunford about what she’s seeing in the dynamic automotive market.

What’s entailed in automotive do a lot of presentation work with textiles and interesting partner- trend development? our customers. Some trends may ships. Please tell me more. “We have a lot of ways that we only be North American trends “Many of the products we have get information (for a recent five and never translate into other were developed internally. YES year forecasting trend report, countries.” Essentials is one that’s a stain the firm consulted with 33 blogs and soil resistant treatment. and websites, 24 news sites, 11 Apparel often garners inspira- Because the automotive market research studies and 22 trend tion from automotive. Which is so global, you are required Margaret Dunford reports). We start with a trend industries do you look to? to be able to manufacture in Director of Design for Sage researcher who has a global per- “We look to apparel quite a bit. any region where they produce Automotive Interiors. spective and gives us their take Some of the things happening vehicles. In some regions, if we on what they seeing going on right now really track apparel, don’t own textile manufactur- “Some of in the market, then we boil that such as the sneaker market ing, we will commission a firm to the trends in information down to what con- with the interesting textiles. produce product for that region. sider appropriate for automotive. Also active apparel. We may We also partner with local firms. automotive Our global design teams meet to look at materials or design for We are on the campus of Clemson from apparel go over this information and then inspiration. In the past, some of University’s International Center we vet it according to regions. the trends in automotive from for Automotive Research. They had to do with The trend information we do is apparel had to do with bespoke have a graduate course in auto- bespoke designs long term – about 10 years out – designs and high-end menswear. motive development. We partner so we decide what is relevant for That’s a bit of a past trend. with their students every year to and high-end the U.S. market now, in the future Apparel is much more short term develop a new car for their Deep menswear.” and for each country, decide if though. Color comes from those Orange project (for 2016 it was this trend coming and when. We sorts of trends.” the Toyota UBOX, an urban utility vehicle for Generation Z). We talk Woven base with electroweld and What’s new and exciting in auto- to them about aesthetics since stitching in a concept show car. motive textiles? they are more on the engineering “I’d say using combined materi- side.” als. They may be layered or there may be some transparency going Do you have a favorite project? on. You may look at something “One of our favorite things one way and see something going to work on is show cars. The on, then from another direc- customer is always trying to do tion, something different. That something that is a little bit dif- has been happening in exterior ferent and more of a reach. One paints and now it’s going over thing we have worked on for the into the interior. We really look past year was featured at the at the interior as a whole, not just 2016 Geneva International Motor what’s happening on the seat, but Show. It’s the Opel GT concept how it blends with what’s happen- car where we attempted to carry ing on the door and instrument over a design concept from one panel. We are trying to take cues seat to another. It morphed as and carry an effect throughout it went across the two seats. We the entire interior. There’s lots just thought that was a very cool more real estate now.” concept and executed well. It shows this trend of layered types The firm has some proprietary of products.” O

42 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2017 textileinsight.com June 20 – 22, 2017

Co-located with: industrial designer CarpeTrendem® TRENDINSIGHT

Getting feedback How important is the use of sustainable Using materials made with eco-friendly Compared to five years ago, natural directly from the materials in product development: methods, such as “green chemistry” is: fiber textiles are likely to be used: source is a good Not very way to understand important Never a About the same consideration Always a consideration trends. In the textile Fairly important market there are Less often 5% 18% many factors at play 3% 56% when it comes to key influences on 18% the fibers, fabrics 29% and manufacturing methods driving innovation. The 65% 66% 42% charts on this page offer a snapshot More of what industrial Very Important Sometimes a consideration often designers are focusing on concerning textiles Of these natural fiber products, which What textile performance property is How big a role does comfort play in for upcoming generates the most interest: number one on your list: product development today: seasons. For Moisture Not big example, 66% view management Breathability Somewhat big sustainability as Merino wool very important, and 8% 5% 4% 56% say eco-correct 11% chemistry is always 28% 34% a consideration. What’s also clear 42% is how comfort has emerged as a 46% performance priority, with the role of 38% 85% comfort reported by 85% of respondents All of the above Very big as “very big.” Q Durability

What do you think is the future of Of the new technologies emerging Panelists include product development: recently which interests you the most: 100 select Trend Insight Industrial Designer is a new feature Wearables Virtual prototyping 3D printing industrial within Textile Insight that designers from delivers research conducted on the MESH1 Platform. the Mesh1 9% 9% MESH1 collects data from a 47% select panel of 100 industrial Industrial Design designers. For information on community. the Mesh1 Platform and its industrial design community 47% 44% of 10,000+, contact Brian Bednarek at 603-766-0957 or [email protected]. For more information on Trend Insight Industrial 44% Designer and how your company can participate, contact Jeff Nott at 516-305-4711 or Customization Sustainability [email protected]. Wearable technology SEE BEYOND THE TIP OF THE ICEBERG

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WWW.MESH1INSIGHTS.COM | 603.766.0957 EDUCATION | HOKKAIDO UNIVERSITY New Research Advances Smart Textiles and Wearable Category. By Kathlyn Swantko

Super High-Tech Thread

he progression of smart textiles decided that polyester would be the best fit and wearable technology is being as a base material from a cost perspective. driven by the convergence of Yasuda notes, “Currently, we have the T innovative apparel design, fabric capability to create CNT textiles made from science, embedded sensors, battery technol- base materials using nylon, , glass ogy, and high performance textile research fiber, cotton, wool, , and others. However, and a good example of this trend is the depending on the physical configuration, research happening at Hokkaido University thickness, and variability of the filament located in Sapporo, Japan. in the vertical direction, the electrical and The program has resulted in the creation of physical properties will vary from one fiber to a unique and viable carbon nanotube coating another.” process, which was used to develop “Electro- The Electro Yarn-T series, which is a very Yarn,” a polyester multifilament, multi-walled light solution that heats up rapidly when carbon nanotube (MWCNT). Marubeni power is applied, is already being used com- America Corporation is now marketing the This graphic shows the development process of mercially as a textile heater for snow melting unique “Electro-Yarn” as the world’s first “Electro-Yarn.” applications. The goal for Electro Yarn-T is commercially conductive thread. to find key partnership companies to explore Under the direction of Hokkaido University Today, Mr. Hachiya is known as the inventor other applications, and to sell at mass produc- Professor Bunshi Fugetsu, the research of “Electro-Yarn.” tion volume. team developed a carbon nanotube (CNT) “While details on the unique coating tech- Development is still at an early stage, and it dispersed liquid. “Initially, the team injected nology is proprietary,” Yasuda says, “the is too early to highlight specific applications the CNT dispersed liquid into the thread,” coating material compound consists of a in outdoor apparel and gear, but Yasuda is explains Yuji Yasuda, business development CNT dispersed liquid and a binder material, optimistic for this market. He notes, “I expect manager for Marubeni America. “However, which is highly viscous. This unusual coat- that ‘Electro-Yarn’ can be used for electrically due to the chemical characteristic of CNT, ing technique enabled ‘Electro-Yarn’ to be functional outerwear (heating and signal), the structural integrity of the CNT injected honored as the Japanese Government’s Grand electrical shoe heaters, and as a signal/power thread was compromised. So, a request was Prize winner of the prestigious Innovative line for body sensors. Perhaps, it can also be made from Hokkaido University to involve Mr. Manufacturing Award.” used in tents, so that the tent material itself Masaaki Hachiya of the Chakyu Dyeing Co., can have wiring pre-built inside.” O to see if the CNT dispersed liquid could be The Advantages of “Electro-Yarn” coated onto the thread.” The major advantage of “Electro-Yarn” is For more information on the Multifilament, Multi-Walled Believing in the future potential of the CNT its electrical properties, combined with the Carbon Nanotube (MWCNT) and “Electro-Yarn” research thread, Mr. Hachiya tested a variety of pro- flexibility that comes naturally to textiles. project, contact Yuji Yasuda at Marubeni America, cesses. Initially, the conventional method for The reason polyester was chosen as the base [email protected], 669-231-7960. coating the polyester thread failed to achieve material was because the fiber was already the basic conductive performance that was being researched for anti-static fabrics. At Kathlyn Swantko, president of the FabricLink Network, cre- required. But, Mr. Hachiya’s continued testing the same time, it was determined that multi- ated TheTechnicalCenter.com for Industry networking and a variety of processes, which eventually led filament would create the ideal base material. marketing of specialty textiles, and FabricLink.com for con- to the commercially viable coating process. After twisting the multi-filament yarn, it was sumer education involving everything fabric.

The FabricLink Network How will they find you, if you’re not there? THE Networking / Education Search Engine for ALL Things Textile Related!

Why clients are excited about the benefits of The FabricLink Network Partnership Opportunities: Kristi Rummel “The ever changing and improving Technical Center is a great way to drive FabricLink.com traffic to our company. We are receiving inquiries from various [email protected] 608.435.6220 aspects of the textile industry which gives us the opportunity to continue to research and develop technical fabrics for so many end uses.” Editorial Opportunities: Brenda Stamboulian Kathy Swantko Director of Marketing [email protected] Jason Mills LLC 818.345.7501 TheTechnicalCenter.com

46 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2017 textileinsight.com The Material Shows NW February, 8 and 9, 2017 Portland, OR Oregon Convention Center NE February, 15 and 16, 2017 Wilmington, MA Aleppo Shriners Auditorium

AmericanEvents.com STRATEGIES | MARKETING Communicating Technology in the Age of Consumer-Friendly Icons. By Suzanne Blecher

Selling Performance

ot so long ago, lingo was complicated consumer across relatable activities, which in the textile world. We heard a lot we call the ‘epic and every day,’ without going about beakers and parts-per-million, too deep on the technical jargon,” according Nwith a big focus on chemistry and to Noah Waterhouse, Stio’s VP of sales and numbers. Today brands have changed the way marketing. Stio includes a long list of details technological information is disseminated, with about the pieces on its site (e.g. Dermizax 3L the challenge of striking a balance between Stretch Waterproof/Breathable, 100% Polyester, consumer-friendliness and high-tech talk. Dermizax Membrane 20,000mm waterproof- “Our studies have shown that easy-to-under- ness, 10,000 g/m2/24hrs breathability, 50 stand, branded ingredients are seen as a sign of denier, 174 g/m2, 80/20 DWR). quality,” said Colleen Nipkow, marketing direc- For some products, the key is in the dem- tor for the Americas for Polygiene. Therefore onstration of the technology. Asics’ Lite-Show the brand keeps messaging simple with terms technology offers 360-degree protection with including “odor free” and “stays fresh,” along reflective materials designed to enhance visibil- with a QR code for additional information on ity during low light hours and keep the wearer its website. Providing a solution to prevent warm during cold weather days. While the the growth of odor-causing bacteria and fungi reflectivity component may not be super-obvi- at the source permanently, as well as general ous with the naked eye in a retail environment, Coolcore Fabrics for Active Apparel freshness, Polygiene has solutions for all types the brand communicates this story with hang- of textiles, plastics and foams. tag details, fixture toppers and rack lanyards In order to engage both partner brands and showing day/night imagery. Asics also encour- end-users, Polygiene offers several ways of ages consumers to take a picture (with flash) of telling their story. Hangtags (“odor free” for the items to see full reflective capabilities. sports and outdoor, “stays fresh” for fashion/ With new/groundbreaking products, con- lifestyle), care labels (Wear More. Wash Less), sumers may need additional background sewn-in labels, brochures, in-store events and information. When Asics launched FlyteFoam heat transfers are all available. While according earlier this year, the brand explained how to the brand, it’s true that 60 percent of con- it took three years of development and 300 sumers are willing to pay more for a product prototypes to maintain effective cushioning that includes a technology that benefits them in a lightweight shoe. FlyteFoam technology and truly works, “most people don’t want more is about 55 percent lighter than the industry hangtags,” noted Nipkow. standard foam used in other shoes, making it “Consumers appreciate clear, honest and feel “like you’re not even touching the ground,” transparent communication about technology. according to the brand’s site. The story of Icons and infographics are a great way to pres- FlyteFoam is promoted on Asics’ website, its ent technological information in a way that’s social media profiles as well as through Asics easy to digest,” said David Ludd, VP of global athlete social media profiles. marketing for Coolcore. While lab testing, With a number of notable developments in Polygiene Label Champion Waterproof Icons clinical testing and wear testing information is the creation of shoe uppers lately, Hoka One available for consumers on the brand’s site, the One continues to advance for Spring 2017 by The Asics DynaFlyte with consumer message is “Cooler, drier, chemical- creating more composite constructions. New FlyteFoam Technology free comfort for maximum performance.” allow for both comfort and breath- Coolcore uses a unique combination of blended ability. The brand is toying with the use of yarns to deliver three distinct functions: high-density printing applied in a multitude of wicking to move sweat away from the body, thicknesses and patterns to allow for abrasion moisture transportation to avoid saturation resistance and zonal structure. But the bottom and regulated evaporation for a cooling effect. line for consumers is comfort. “We live in a Coolcore technology can be found in Dr. Cool world where every brand is saying that they towels, CoolAid equine blankets and gloves. have the best foam and the most comfortable upper,” noted a Hoka One One spokesperson, Icons & End-Users adding, “having shoes that evoke comfort due With so many proprietary technologies and to a specific material or construction is a pow- icons touted on apparel, gear and accessories, erful way to communicate.” While talk about it’s easy for a consumer to get overwhelmed. technology and ingredients is important, “the Stio keeps things simple by “pitching the ben- designs that we select are a much stronger mes- Hoka One One Vanquish efits that a fabric technology will provide a sage than a hangtag,” the exec said. O

48 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2017 textileinsight.com PERFORMANCE & SPORTS TEXTILE SOURCING MERCHANDISE SHOW

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Bad Cutting is Forever

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50 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2017 textileinsight.com