CAM BRIDGE C OUNT"GEOGRAPH IES

ILL A M A M : . . U E D D e . G M R . . . . Gen ral Editor F H H , ,

OX FO RDS H IR E CAM B RIDGE UN IV E RS IT"PRE S S

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O X F O R D S H I R E

"X kk) ? “ F I D P T H E L M . A P S A . H ? D I C . . . , ,

With M s s s s ap , Diagram and Illu tration

C a m bridge

“ a t t h e U n iv ersit y Press

ERRATU M

- - for ri bt ba n d a l e t ba n d. O n p . 7 9 g re d f

NOT A E . s thi s book w a s first publi shed before the

s 1 1 1 s s complete figure of the 9 cen u were available , the figure s below are supplied to take the place of

s tho e given in the following page s.

Oxford shire 1

a s 8 8 -oh - a m s 6 6 Adderbury , E t 5 Henley Th e 4 5

w e st o o 1 n 3 34 Ho k N rton 349 A sth a ll 3 1 9 Ifll ey 3 5 7 B a m pton 1 2 4 0 I slip 5 6 6 B a nbury K el m sc ot 1 5 9 Beckley 2 4 8 Kidli n gton 1 0 8 7 Be n son 9 8 5 Kirtli n gton 6 1 6 Bice ster 3 3 8 5 L a ngley 4 5 Bletchingdon 4 8 8 Littlem ore 1 9 0 9 Bl oxh a m 1 3 35 M a pledurh a m 5 4 7 Broughton 1 3 2 Mi n ster Lovell 44 8 Burford 1 0 4 7 Northleigh 6 5 0 C a ver sh a m 9 8 5 8 Oxford

C a o 6 o a h lgr ve 3 4 R llright, Gre t 34 9 C h a rlbury 1 3 0 7 R ot h erfi el d Grey s 6 0 6 C hi n nor 9 7 5 Peppa rd 6 0 6 C hipping Norton 39 7 2 S hipl a ke 1 2 3 6 Cogges 8 8 8 S hipton -u n der -Wychwood 6 5 4 Cowley 2 5 1 0 Som erton 2 7 4 C ropredy 4 0 5 Sta nton H a rcourt 4 6 5 Cuddesdon 2 7 4 Sta n ton St John 39 7

1 6 6 Tew a 6 Deddington 4 , Gre t 3 9 Dorche ster 8 0 4 Th a m e 2 9 5 7 E n ston e 9 3 2 Wa tlington 1 5 4 8 Ewel m e 4 7 9 Whea tley 9 6 6 Eye a n d Dun sden 1 1 7 3 Whitchurch 8 4 7 Eynsh a m 1 6 8 3 Witn ey 3 5 2 9 Fritwell 4 5 3 Wol verc ot e 1 2 9 7 Goring 1 7 8 5 Wood stock 1 5 9 4 H a nwell 1 9 4 Wootton 6 1 0

a s a 1 o 6 H eley , Gre t 5 7 Wroxt n 5 9 Hea dington 4 4 8 8

PRE FAC E

H s a IS book need little preface . In accord nce with the pre scribed scheme of thi s series of County Geographie s the author h a s tried to describe the physical

s O s it s it s s s s feature of xford hire , people, indu trie , hi tory,

s e s antiquitie , archit cture and famou men , and to recall the story of Oxford with it s seven centuries of University

s life , the Saxon and Norman tronghold that played

s s s a great part in the Dani h trife , and in the civil war

s e h a s of the twelfth and ev nteenth centuries. It been a pleasant task to wander again through t h e old-world

s s town and village of the county , and to attempt to lead

s e it s s it s s other to admir remarkable churche , fine example

s s of dome tic and collegiate architecture , and to intere t it them in s hi story .

The author desires to express h is thanks to all who

e ss s t h e s hav a i ted him in writing of thi book, to

M r e F s h a s Llewelyn Tr acher , W ho e aid been

s s s mo t valuable in the geological and kindred ection ,

s G G u illem a rd and e pecially to the eneral Editor , D r ,

h is e for editorial car . P . H . D .

a n u a r 1 1 2 y y , 9 .

CO NTE NTS

C a n d S Th e n of fo s ounty hire . Origi Ox rd hire

a a n d a a Con Gener l C h a r a cteri stic s. Position N tur l

dit ion s

S z . a a i e Sh pe . Bound rie s

Surfa ce a n d Genera l Fea tures

River s

Geol ogy a n d Soil s — N a tur a l Hi story F a un a a n d Flora

Clim a te — a a S m s a n People R ce , Di lect , ettle ent , Popul tio — a C a s S W a s Agriculture M in ultiv tion , tock , oodl nd

Industries a n d M a nufa ctures — A Speci a l I n dustry Witn ey Bl a nkets

(Ma rries a n d Minera l s

Hi story ofthe County — n s s o m a Sa A tiquitie Prehi t ric , Ro n , xon viii CONTENTS

— Architecture (a ) Ecclesi a stica l — a s s Architecture (b) Milita ry . C tle — c om s . a m s a n s o s Architecture ( ) D e tic F ou M i n , M a nor Houses a n d Cotta ges — Architecture (d) C olleges — e m m n a s a s a n d s . oa s a Co u ic tion P t Pre nt R d . R il

a n a s wa ys. C l — Adm ini stra tion a n d Divi sions Ancie n t a n d Modern

Roll ofHonour

The ChiefTowns a n d Vill a ges ofOxford shire ILLU STRATI ONS

Portion ofDom esd a y Book rel a ti n g t o Oxford shire f Bur ord . Hughes)

a a m . Pbot M pledurh W a ter Mill ( . Frith)

W o IJ n n P 0 1 . a od stock . ( V le ti e)

Th e T a m n a n Pbot h es Va lley e r G ori g . ( . Frith)

Th e T n P bot . S a hree Shire Sto e s. ( nsbury)

S S n P S n o bot . a s F ur hire to e . ( bury)

o P130 1 ) C hri st C hurch Mea d w . ( . Frith

P at a n f . b C s a d s . ollege B rge Eight , Ox ord ( Frith)

Pbot . Whitchurch . ( Frith)

ba n P t . He ley Bridge . ( Frith)

n h Pbot . O t e C herwell . ( Frith)

a a Pbo a a n d o . t F ossil s of the Ki m m eridge Cl y C r lli n ( .

a Ll . Tre cher)

a m s on ( a a a n . Pbot . . a M l t e m rry , ne r W tli gton ( Ll Tre cher)

bot a a ff s a o f . P . R dcli e Ob erv t ry , Ox ord ( Hollid y)

Pbot . a m s An Oxford shire F a rm . ( Ad )

m om En c c l o a edia Brit a n n ic a ) Oxford D ow n R a . (Fr the y p

a Pboi Worce ster C ollege G rden s. ( . Frith) O xford U n iver sity Press Pbot Room in the B odlei a n Libra ry . ( . Frith) Wol verc ot e P a per Mill s

C a S o a n . Plyot . S a s ke h p , B bury ( n bury)

a s s on T a m s. Pbot . ) M r h Mill , the h e ( Frith W P o m b t . a s it n ey Bl a n ket F a ctory . ( Ad )

Pbot . a Dorchester C h u rch . ( L tter) x ILLUSTRATIONS

P ot s b . . M inster Lovell . ( C Hughe )

’ Th e os So s C a . Pbot . ) Rered , All ul h pel ( Frith ’ bot m a P . B a lli ol College a n d t h e M a rtyr s Me ori l . ( Frith)

m a a Pbot . a n n Blenhei P l ce . ( V le ti e)

Pbat . . a Pa l a eolithic a n d Neolithic I m plem e n ts. ( Ll Tre cher)

Th o Pivot S a s e R llright Stone C ircle . ( . n bury)

’ Sa s K Pbot . R ollright Circle : t h e ing s Stone . ( n bury)

’ St o n Pbot J h s College . ( . Frith) ’ f P St a s C . bot . ) Mich el hurch , Ox ord ( Frith Ifll W b e P ot . C s o . y hurch , e t Fr nt ( Frith)

C s a a Pbot . hri t C hurch C thedr l . ( Frith)

’ St a P fo bot . s C . M ry hurch , Ox rd ( Frith)

a a n Pbot . M gd le College . ( Frith)

fo Pbot s Bur rd C hurch . ( . C . Hughe )

s u n n Pbot a n n God tow N ery . ( . V le ti e) f P/Jot . F Tower o t h e Five Order s. ( rith)

s n a Pbot . Chri t Church : Sta irca se lea di g t o the H ll . ( Frith) fo a s . Pbat Ox rd C tle ( . Frith)

o n P bot . S s Br ughto C a stle . ( a n bury)

a n n a o o C a s . Pbot . Sa n s u ) B queti g H ll , Br ught n tle ( b ry

T w V Pbot n a e a . a Gre t ill ge ( . V lenti e) ’

o fo . Pba s s a a t . ) Bi h p King P l ce , Ox rd ( Frith

W P n o n bot . S a s r xto Abbey . ( bury)

Th a on o s fo e . Pbat . Oct g H u e , Ox rd ( Frith)

Th a ( a dra n l e s Pboz . i e C C . Gre t m g , hri t hurch ( Fr th) P bot . Oriel College . ( Frith)

n a bo P t . Merto C ollege Libr ry . ( Frith) To n o Pbot . M a gda le C llege wer . ( Frith) ’

Pbot . ( meen s C oll ege . ( Frith)

’

So . T n o s s . Pbot The wi T wer , All ul ( Frith) ff a a . Pbot Th e R dcli e Libr ry ( . Frith)

Pbat . New College . ( Frith)

a n s o Pbot . M field C llege . ( Frith)

Th Or n of 1 n t a n S h re . e . C ou y d i ig i f h Ox ords i re .

If w e look at a map of England we se e the whol e

s s s country parcelled out into hire and countie , each of

h a s it s s its which own tory to tell of origin and formation .

A ff s s a s remarkable di erence exi t with regard to their origin ,

ff a s s s s. great a di erence , indeed , in their ize and characteri tic Several were old kingdom s long before on e king ruled over

s s s a united Engli h land . The outhern countie are much

s n older than tho e further orth . The name Kent pre s s of s C a n t ii erve the memory an old Briti h tribe , the , who — held t h e south eastern corner of our i sland long before O Julius Caesar came to try to conquer Britain . ther

s s s a s S ss countie record Saxon kingdom , uch u ex , the

n S s ss s regio of the outh Saxon ; E ex, that of the Ea tern Saxons ; Middlesex that of the mid - Saxon kingdom ; whil e the Angle s h eld East Anglia and divided them selves into t h e N S orth Folk, or Norfolk, and the outh Folk, or

S ff s s u olk . The We t Saxon were a powerful people and s s G s s t held Berk hire , Wilt hire , and louce ter hire , and par

— t ess of Somerset the la er Wessex . W ex had its ow n

o - o its s f lk m ot and independent king . The e districts w ere

0 . D . 2 OXFORDSHIRE subsequently divided into the shires which we now see on the map . O n the north of We ssex w a s the powerful kingdom

it s of Mercia , which maintained integrity until the tenth

h a d a s w a r century . It m ny warrior ruler who waged

a s ss on the djoining kingdom , fighting ince antly with the

ss 1 neighbouring people of We ex . About the year 9 2

s w m the partition of thi s large tretch of country a s ade .

b e i h res w a s s s ir s . e . s a s s s It eparated into , or divi ion , part — — s/vorn off for the root word is the same in each case these new shire s all bearing the name of the chi e f town

u . s S ff s around which they were gro ped Thu , ta ord hire ,

s ff s s s the hire of Sta ord , Warwick hire , Worce ter hire ,

s s s s Leice ter hire, Nottingham hire , Northampton hire , and

s s O other were founded , and among them our hire of xford sprang into being about the little town which w a s destined

m it s s to beco e a great city , and on account of univer ity

a s s one of the most f mou place in England . It w a s not then so i m portant a town a s it afterwards

it s s became , but po ition on the great river near the chief

s ford would render it a place of con equence . Oxford

s O t h e u ed to be written xenford, and it may be that “ is s s s name derived from the e bea t of burden , the ford ” s u s h of the oxen , though ome learned men tell t at the

s s s O s fir t yllable come from the Celtic word u e , meaning

s ss a river, and that the name mean the ford acro the river .

s s s s Earthwork , cromlech , camp , and road , tell of the e s s n arlie t people who inhabited the di trict . O the we st they formed their tribal boundary where t h e Edge Hill s

s s n overlook the plain of leafy Warwick hire . O t h e COUNT"AND SHIRE 3

s s s outh the Thame formed a mean of defence , and

s s s Sin odu n oppo ite the Berk hire tronghold at , near Walling

s s a s ford , tand the c mp called the Dyke Hill , protected by

a double vallum and a trench .

n R s Lo g before the oman came , a warlike Celtic tribe called the D obu n i dwelt in t h e di strict now called O xford

s . s s s hire They were urrounded by other trong tribe , the

C a rn a b ii s C orit a n i t h e on the we t, the on north , the Atrebates on the south (whose chief city w a s C a lleva

At riba t u m s S s , afterward the Roman ilche ter), and the

e w a s C a t u vela u n i on the east . Ther much fighting

s s Dobu n i between the e tribe , and the extended their

h ss sway to t e Severn . Then they were hara ed by their

s C a t u vela u n i s neighbour , the , who inhabited the di trict now called Buckinghamshire and had at one time for

C u n ob elin e s their chief , of whom Shake peare wrote ,

e calling him Cymb line . When Julius Cae sar came to Britain he could not

s s O s w a s penetrate the fore t of the future xford hire , and it

n s s left to another great Roma leader, Aulu Plautiu , to

i s subdue t h e Dobu n . We can find everal traces of Roman

O s so s rule in xford hire , though they are not numerou

‘ u n t ie R s a s in many ot h e r c o s. The oman remained in

ss ss 1 0 A . D . po e ion until about 4 , when they withdrew to

a n d w a s ss their native land , Britain left defencele . Then

t h e S s s s came axon and Angle , and thi part of our land fell

an easy prey to the West Saxons. At the beginning of

s w a s ss the eventh century it part of We ex , the kingdom

s s - of the We t Saxon . Then from the north east came

s M a s e another powerful Saxon ho t , the erci n , who contend d

I —2 4 OXFORDSHIRE

s s with the West Saxon who had advanced from the outh .

s s s s Fiercely did the battle rage , fir t one ide being victoriou and then the other . Penda, King of Mercia , who ruled 6 26 6 w a s h is from to 33, a mighty warrior , and extended

s a n d C w ic h el m rule over Oxford hire , by treaty with ,

ss s - King of We ex, made the Thame the boundary line

s between the kingdom s. But thi arrangement did not

s s last long . For two centurie the rival kingdom con

s tended , fir t one gaining an advance and then the other ,

s ss 8 2 until at la t Egbert, King of We ex , prevailed in 7

h is s and brought Mercia under rule . It pre erved , how

its s s ever , geographical boundarie and organi ation , being

a n ruled over by Ealdorman , until at the beginning of

M w a s a s s the tenth century ercia divided , already tated ,

s s s a it s its . into hire , each hire t king name from chief town With the coming of the Norman s the word county w a s introduced . They applied that word in order to

“ ” ‘ s s c om iz a t u s identify the old Engli h hire with their own , “ c om es O s s r . s the di t ict of a or count Thu xford hire , the ” s O s a s hire of xford , became al o known the county of

Oxford . A reference to the Domesday Survey shows that like m any of the other southern shires it w a s divided among smaller landlord s or into smaller estate s than the

s s s great lord hip of the midland and the north . Hence the owners were not so powerful a s the barons who led t h e s a s revolt ag in t the Norman and Plantagenet kings. It is curious to note that although England became one kingdom the shires or counties retained for centuries

a s s their own peculi ritie and local custom . They had d s s s. each their own manner and ocial tra ition Kent, for s e P ortion ofD om e s d a y B ook re l a t i n g t o Ox d hir 6 OXFORDSHIRE

e it s s e for xample, retained cu tom of gav lkind , whereby

s son s a s s the younge t , and not the elde t in other countie , h i ’ w a s entitled to s sire s property . Certain peculiarities in the building of Wa dham College show that it w a s

s s s s a s erected by Somerset ma on . Even in uch thing , i shoeing horses each county had t s own peculiar custom . Thus Charle s II in h is flight w a s o n ce detected by h is ’ horse s shoes having been made in four different counties. Since t h e population of the country h a s become more

s u s migratory, and railway quickly convey from one end

e s of the kingdom to the other, and the univ r al application

s h a s m of economic law to the whole realm co e into force , the se pec u liaritie s of shires have for the most part dis appeared .

2 e n e r l C h r e ri st c s . P o t on . G a a act i si i n r l n on s a d Natu a C o diti .

If we divide England into two fairly equal parts by

n s s O s s a line runni g from ea t to we t, xford hire lie in

e is the centre of the southern half. Ther no coal in Oxfordshire and few openings for modern industrial

. is ss n activity It e entially an agricultural county . Camde “ well described Oxford shire a s a fertil e coun try and

u s s c orn fi elds plentif l , the plain garni hed with and ” s s s meadow and the hill be et with wood s.

a s O s w a s it s e In former d y xford hire noted for wool trad , and other enterpri ses which depended on the water-po wer

it s of rivers and str eam s. These rivers form a di stingui shing

8 OXFORDSHIRE

These rivers had a great a dvantage for the trade of

s s a s m the hire in olden day , they produced a large a ount of water- power upon which the prim itive wool trade and

- s i cloth making largely depended . Five Oxford h re market

s s. s town are all on river The e are Burford , Chipping

a s Norton , Henley , Thame , and Witney , and we have

s O s m it s s aid , xford owe uch to po ition near the head

of s s waters the navigation of the Thame . But the day

- s of water power and waterway are past and gone . Steam

s s s - s engine have long ince upplanted the old water wheel , and in the se days of railways we no longer depend on

barges and rivers for the conveyance of our goods. The river Thames greatly promoted the trade of the

w a s s county in former days. It the principal mean of As tran sit of good s and the great highway of traffic . early a s 1 20 5 King John gave licence to William Fit z An dre w to have one vessel to ply on the Thames

between Oxford and London . Stone for the building of

w a s s Eton College conveyed from the Headington quarrie , and before the advent of railways thi s important river w a s

s the great highway, and brought trade and pro perity to the

s it s s s countie along bank . In ancient time it brought

s s s s s s al o undry danger and di advantage , and trouble ome

vi sitors. The Danes sailed up the Thame s and burned

s s 8 1 and pillaged and laughtered along it s bank . In 7

a s a s they came far Reading In Berkshire . Later they s d a ettled at Oxfor . In the l tter part of the tenth century they roamed about the country plundering and de stroying . 1 0 0 6 s O In they acked and burnt xford , and in the next

O s year marched again through xford hire , but at length

1 0 OXFORDSHIRE under the rule of Canute in 1 0 1 8 a council w a s held at Oxford when both Danes and Angles agreed to observe

s . s s the law of Edgar , and live in peace In tho e day of rapine and slaughter the great river would not have be en considered an advantage to Oxford . The bed of the Thames contain s store s of weapon s which conquerors and conquered have dropped from their warships and

s is s canoe , and when the river dredged we often find tone

s s sw s s. implement , bronze weapon , ord , and dagger Another great natural feature of the shire w a s the

s s abundance of wood and fore t land . It mu t be

m its s s w a s re embered that, in earlie t day , England very

s s largely uncleared crub or woodland , and in part true

s s s s fore t land in the modern re tricted en e of the term , i e s s . . covered with large tree . At one time Oxford hire w a s almost covered with fore sts : it w a s practically a con t in u ou s s s woodland . The royal cha e of Wood tock lay on

s w a s s the north , and contiguou the fore t of Wychwood “ (perhaps the wood of the Near Bicester w s s B ern w ood a . the fore t of Stowood , Beckley, and

Th e n s s Shotover lay on the east . Chilter on the outh east were covered with wild thickets and dense beech

- s s s . wood , and Bagley Wood extended on the outh we t

se s s of The fore t , full of deer , attracted the attention

s a Norman king , and bec me the favourite royal hunting grounds. In the fourteenth century the Chiltern Woods

s s became the haunt of thieve and robber , and a Steward w a s appointed to exterminate the se pe sts and to guard travellers and protect the inhabitants from pillage and

. s e s s e murder Though the robber hav long ince vani h d , GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS l 1

s s It s sa a is 1 a the Steward hip remain . l ry £ per nnum , and when a M ember of Parliament wi shes to resign h is s s ff S s eat , he accept the o ice of the teward hip of the

s Chiltern Hundred . During the great Civil War of the s w a s s eventeenth century, there a terrible de truction of

e s timb r . Camden tell how the rich and fertile county

W ood stoc k

s s s with hill covered with great tore of wood , had been “ s it s s s s horn of beauty , and Dr Plot ay , The hill before t h e lat e unhappy wars were well enough ~ beset with ’ ’ s e t is so s t is wood , wher now carcy that a common ” e thing to s e it sold by weight . Another cause of the de struction of Oxford shire wood s 1 2 OXFORDSHIRE

w a s the high price of corn during the French war s at t h e

s s s clo e of the eighteenth century, when hundred of acre

u of woodland were grubbed p in order to produce wheat ,

s which w a s sold at an enormous price . The farmer and squire s had great diffi culty in making the land fit for

a n d s s cultivation , owing to the de truction of the tree the

price of wood w a s nearly doubled . We may conclude that the general characteri stics of the county are agricultural ; that it s natural condition s a re a bundance of water and (until recently) of forests ; that the great number of stream s producing water- power

d s s - t h e provided , in old ay , mean for cloth working ; that wood s provided a great trade in timber ; and that the Tham es w a s the principal mean s of traffi c connecting

O W s s xford with ind or and London , and thu bringing

t h e s trade and commerce to Oxford hire city .

. S e S h e . B o n d r e . 3 i z . ap u a i s

it s s Oxfordshire cannot boast of ize . Thirty other

s s a a Engli h countie h ve a larger area . Comp red with

s s D s s York hire , Lincoln hire , evon , or Norfolk , it eem

s s s 1 a mall county, but it contain acre or 7 5 I s h a s . t s quare miles. It s a curiously irregular hape

s — s s greate t length mea ured from the mo t northern point , t h e s e Three Shire Stone , a mil north of Claydon to

— It s Caversham ne a r Reading is exactly 5 0 miles.

s is t s s greate t breadth abou 33 mile , mea ured from the

s a s s Thame ne r Kelm cott to the Great O u e near Finmere .

1 4 OXFORDSHIRE

But near Oxford we can walk across the county in an

a s s is s es hour and a half, the di tance under even mil , and though the width of the county increases a little a s we

s s s proceed outh , it never exceed a dozen mile . Fanciful geographers have compared the shape of the

. e s county to that of a lute Ther are , however , ome

It s reason s for thi s eccentric shape . boundaries follow certain natural features which doubtle ss appeared good frontier lines and convenient demarcation s to those who

s first mapped out Oxford hire . Thus the great river Thames with it s winding course mad e an admirable

s se s . boundary on the outh , parating it from Berk hire Th e Chilte rn Hills with their crown s of beeches form

s - s a good limit on the outh ea t , and on the north and north - west the grand range of the Edge Hill s provides a

s s frontier line eparating the county from Warwick hire . No one can now tell the origin of the boundary -lines s s s eparating from Northampton hire on the north , from part

s s G s s of Buckingham hire on the ea t, and from louce ter hire and a small detached part of Worcestershire on the west

- o s s t r- and north west . Pr bably the e line followed old ibal

s s divi ion . The counties that surround Oxfordshire are Berkshire

t h e s u s s on outh , B ckingham hire and Northampton hire

s s s on the ea t , Warwick hire on the north and we t , and

s s G s s a detached portion of Worce ter hire , and louce ter hire

s on the we t .

s We will trace the boundarie of the county, beginning our peregrination s with the Three Shire Stones on t h e N extreme north . Thence the line dividing it from orthants

1 6 OXFORDSHIRE

u co rse of the Roman road which leads to Bice ster . Skirting

s v the ground of Finmere , and lea ing the Roman road

s s s s at Finmere tation , it pur ue an irregular outhern direction with several minor twi sts and turns past

s ss Godington . It cut acro the London and North

s e ss s s We t rn Railway line , cro e the Ray tream and the

s Roman Akeman Street , goe by Piddington to near Brill

s s s ss (Buck ), and then turn we t pa ing the camp on

M u sw ell u r ot s Hill . It then make s for M c and turn s s it s s outh , pa t Studley Priory and wood , through a - S well timbered country, habbington wood being on the Buckinghamshire and Waterperry wood on the Oxford s S n s a s hire ide . The li e then bears east and outh tow rd the A Thame river which it follows east to Thame . tributary

s of the Thame , the Ford Brook, now form the boundary

se s f until we reach the manor hou of A ton Sand ord , and then the line skirts the double penin sulas of Kingsey and

Tow e r e n ss s Ic kn ield s . s y Turni g outh again , it cro e the

a n d s s Way , , a little farther, reache the foot of the Chiltern

ss. s near Bledlow Cro Here it mount to the ridge , and

se s s following a very irregular and zigzag cour , de cend on

s ss the farther ide to Stonor Park , and pa ing Henley Park eventually reaches the Thames by Fawley Court . The southern boundary of the county follows the

s s cour e of the Thame river , and will be traced in the s s s ection which de cribe the rivers of the shire . The western boundary lea ve s the Thames at Kelm scott (the abode of St Kenel m ) and divides Oxford shire

- from Glouce stershire . It proceeds in a north we ste rly

s s direction , keeping ea t of Lechlade, and for a hort SIZ E SHAPE B OUNDARIES 1 7

s s t h e se e di tance follow cour of the river L ach , branch ing off soon after it passes Little Faringdon towards

F ou r S h ire S t on e

s. ss s S Broughton Pogg It cro e Akeman treet , and the road from Burford to Cirencester by Fourmile House

- afterwards form s the boundary line for a short di stance .

o D . . 18 OXFORDSHIRE

Crossing t h e Windrush a little to the east of Great and

s s 6 0 Little Barrington , it ri e to a height of 7 feet by

s s s u Down Barn , and goe pa t Idb ry Camp to Bledington (Gloucestershire) afterward s following the Evenlode for

s ss s s a short di tance . The boundary then pa e by Cha tleton

s s O s Camp and Hou e, eparating xford hire from a detached

s s s s portion of Worce ter hire . A penin ula jut out here ,

t s M - ou - - s oward oreton the Mar h , extending to the Four

Shire Stone . The ground ri ses near Chastleton to a

s height of 749 feet , and the line proceed in a north easterly direc t ion to the Rollright villages and Hook

s s 1 s s Norton . The level now de cend to 37 feet, then ri e

es s s to the carpment of the Edge Hill , the boundary ju t avoiding the beautiful hou se of Compton Wynyates in

s O s is Warwick hire , from which county xford hire here

s . e s s s eparated The line th n pur ue a zigzag cour e , turning

s - s s outh ea t near Hornton , and a tongue of Warwick hire

s s s Juts into Oxford hire by Shotteswell . It then re ume

it s se S S s irregular northerly cour to the Three hire tone ,

e i i where we b gan our peregr nat ons . In old maps of counties we often find detached portion s of the shires entirely surrounded by another

. s s county The e have often much hi torical importance ,

s a s s M s ss uch the Hundred of We t eon , ituated in Su ex , i but belonging to Hants. Thi s s a striking survival from

s s M eon a i e m en w a r . the ettlement of Juti h ( . the of

M s s s eon), who were ab orbed by the We t Saxon of i s O s s s. Hant . xford hire no exception to thi In ancient

s s s map Lilling tone Lovell , Boycott , and Leckhamp tead , all in Buckingham shire and entirely surrounde d by that SIZ E SHAPE B OUNDARIES 19

a s s O s us county, are recorded being part of xford hire ; j t a s G s s a little bit of detached louce ter hire, including t h e s s pari h of Shenington , join the county on the

s is s Warwick hire border . It an intere ting problem to

s h ow s m a certain these bits of countie beca e detached .

s s s s In ome ca e , no doubt, the eparation took place in early times by conquest or agreement ; but in most instances the detached portion belonged to some great

a or - a s w a s l ndowner , whether a private individual not

—a n s s s s s uncommon eccle ia tical body, who e chief e tate

e m a s wer in that county, and therefore for norial right and assessment w a s permitted to con sider the outlying property

Th e s s a s part of the shire . name Lilling tone Lovell point to thi s interpretation . The Lovells were a great Oxford s a a s hire family . They g ve their n me to Min ter Lovell

O s s w a s s in xford hire , and Lilling tone Lovell al o their

so a s O s . property, and counted part of xford hire These detached portion s of counties are now only

e s s a matt r of hi toric intere t . By an Act of Parliament

ss 1 8 s s t h e pa ed in 44, all uch part were annexed to

s a n d s s county by which they were urrounded , the e bit of Oxford shire have long since been amalgamated with

Buckingham shire .

S rf a n e n e r l Fe r 4 . u ace d G a atu e s .

s s is s The urface of our hire plea antly diversified .

be n i Nothing could further from monotony . Withi t s

s s s m s s limit we find rolling plain , often wold or al o t moor ,

s s s s s wift hallow tream , bare upland , and wooded valley .

2—2 20 OXFORDSHIRE

O n s - s s s s the outh ea t are the gloriou Chiltern , ri ing to 8 0 0 a height of over feet, clothed and crowned with

S s a s s beechwood s. hirburn Hill t nd above the re t with 8 2 l 0 0 it s a height of 7 feet , but Nett ebed (7 feet) with

s s is t h e . wood and common the pride of range Camden ,

s s s who wrote at the end of the ixteenth century , peak of “ s s s s the hill be et with wood ; tored in every place , not only

s s with corn and fruit, but al o with all kind of game for ”

s . hound and hawk, and well watered with river plentiful A delightful description truly "But ti m e h a s wrought

s s. s s s ome change Many wood have di appeared , and hawk

e e s m are no longer g n rally u ed for killing ga e , except for

s s s s t h e S amu ement by a few enthu ia tic follower of port ,

though hounds still pursue the fox and the hare . The s is s a s t h e cenery, however, much the ame when old

e s t h e s s e geograph r vi ited the county, and river pur ue th ir course to the sea and still abound with fi sh . ff s Oxford shire scenery varies much in di erent part . We have rich meadows and overhanging woods by the s s s a s a s s ide of the river , well bleak and bare upland with

s s s ss s s s their tone wall and helterle down . The lope of

s s s the Chiltern are till clad with beechwood , and in the n orth we find enormous field s without a tree to cast

s e i s s a hadow . But ther s al o in the north ome beautiful s s e cenery , the country being diver ified by lovely wood d

s s in valley . In the outhern part of the county , the region

s s e e s s of the Chiltern , the lover of nature find at v ry ea on h h t e s s . s t e of year much that plea e him In the pring, young green of the c orn fi elds com petes with the tender leaf of the stately beech - tre es with which many of the SURFACE AND GENERAL FEATURES 21

s s s ss lope are covered . In ummer we pa from great

s s l n s s s tretche of go den grai to the leafy hade of the wood , ’ where the sun s rays flicker on the smooth straight trunks of the beeches and the soft brown bed ofleaves beneath ;

l s m a ss while in autumn the wooded hi l are a of colour,

s t h e e the bright carlet of wild cherry and maple , the gre n

and yellow of the oak, and the rich old gold of the beech ,

s s e a s n lit up by the clear bright un hin , blend into brillia t and harmonious a picture a s we can find in any part of

it s is ss England . Nor, in way, winter a le beautiful

s s s - e s ea on of the year, when the pa ture cover d hill , dotted

s s s with dark juniper hrub and darker box and yew tree ,

t h e l s s alternate with brown arable and , which fully di play t h e soft and graceful curves caused by the action of the

s s weather for centurie on the chalk formation of the oil . Th e beechwood s have changed their green coverings for ’ s s s s the rich purple of next year bud , and each tree tand

e s t h e sk it s s s t h e cl ar again t y, delicate tracery ugge ting lace-w ork which the deft fingers of t h e country- women

so s contrive to weave kilfully .

e s s s n The multitude of riv r , of which we hall pre e tly

e s s hav to peak , con titute a marked feature of the county . The extent of the wood s a n d forests w a s another note

s h a s worthy characteri tic , but the area covered by timber

bee n greatly reduced . The bogs and wastes of Otmoor

— e the hom of the wild fowl , until drained , reclaimed , and e nclose d at the beginning of the last century -still c on

h is s st it u t e a peculiar feature of t e county . The land till s fl s wampy and at, being ituated on a broad belt of clay, and t h e Ray stream only partially dra in s it and conveys 22 OXFORDSHIRE it s s water into the Cherwell river . We can get a fine ’ view over thi s somewhat de solate region from Arn c ot t s wood at Beckley . Small valleys are numerous in the northern plateau

s m s fl s s with trea owing through each , the lope covered fw s . e s s s with pa ture There are wood . We tward of thi there is a region of long gently- ri sing S lopes swelling to

s s s s s. rounded hill , the outlying pur of the Cot wold Stone

s s is wall often take the place of hedge , and the country cold and bleak save when the su m m er su n shines and

s it becomes very hot and dry . Proceeding outhwards

s is l s toward Burford there a hil y di trict , bleak and

s s s monotonou , with few tree or hedge , the latter being

S s s replaced by tone wall . The grand old fore t of Wych wood no longer provides a hunting ground for the kings

it s m s of England , and little of woodland re ain except

L ea fi eld e around and Cornbury . B etw en Burford and Witney the country is hilly with small valleys running

s s s down to the Thame . The bank of the upper Thame

- s s are very beautiful , with low lying meadow , tall hedge ,

and few tree s. If we follow the course of the river to O xford we m a y notice there the fam ous Port Meadow

s w - and Chri t Church meado , the reed girt Cherwell and the ri sing slopes of Headington (32 2 feet) and Shotover

( 56 2 feet). A survey of the cou nty di sclose s a large number of

s n ss . s park , of which there are o le than forty The e with their mag n ificent timber and their ornam ental lakes con

st it u t e an important feature of O xford shire .

The ground varie s very much in elevation . The

24 OXFORDSHIRE

r . 5 . Ri ve s

s a s s s s The river , already tated , form a di tingui hing so s natural feature of the county . They are numerou and are fed by so many streams and brooks that almost the whole of the shire is covere d with a network of

- s s t h e s water cour e , with the exception of two plateau at the extrem e north and south of the county . What D r Plot said with hesitation concerning ou r Oxfordshire streams w e may assert with confidence . No county surpasse s Oxford shire in regard to the number a n d

i s fl s abundance of t s rivers. The great river Thame ow

it s s h a s s s along whole outhern boundary , and it be ide

s . the Cherwell , Evenlode , Windru h , and Thame All the se fl ow into the Thames and have also thei r own

l m e s. s e s G tributarie Thu , among many oth r , the y and

m s the Do e add to the water of the Evenlode , and the

Ray to the Cherwell . “ Dr Plot tells u s t hat these rivers are of so quick

s s so a tream, free from tagnation , and few (if any) va ppid and stinking exhalations c a n ascend from

. so s s them to corrupt the air And for tanding Pool ,

s s t h e s Mari h or Boggy ground , parent of Ague, Cough

s . Catarrh , they are fewe t here of any place to be found

s s t h e s s Perhap in thi learned doctor erred , or perhap river like human beings sometimes change their nature . The

s is s s s fl Thame wift enough , e pecially in time of ood , and ’ w a s s s w a s far more wift in Dr Plot day, before it bridled RIV ERS 25

s with lock ; but the Thame, Evenlode , and Cherwell are s s s s s e s omewhat luggi h tream and have many we d , which are not seen in swift currents.

s e s The condition have chang d ince very early times. The bed of t h e Tham es w a s once far l ess deep than it is

s s S e at pre ent , and the river extended it elf on each id . M oreover the hills and vales were covered with dense

s s s se f fore t , and the e would tend to increa the rain all and

s is to make the atmosphere humid . The Thame navigable for s a n d s s s a s a s O large barge mall teamer far xford , but it

s n ot s e n e doe , of cour e , becom a tidal river u til long aft r it h t h is s e a s passed e boundarie s of the shire . It al o navigabl

s s from Oxford to Lechlade for boat and barge . The Tham e s ri ses nea r Cirencester and runs southward

s into Wilt hire , and after receiving the Churn from the

s s north of Cirence ter and proceeding ea terly by Cricklade , it unites near Lechlade with the Coln from t h e north and

s s Th e the Cole from the outh , and become navigable .

s it s s s Leach , from which Lechlade take name, al o add its s s s s water to the river , and form for ome di tance the

s s boundary of the county . From thi point the Thame

s s O s e fl s form the outhern limit of xford hire , and th nce ow e s s a tward , inclining to the north through an unintere ting

ss s d w a s country . It pa e under Radcot Bri ge, where a battle 1 8 O fought in 3 7 between Robert de Vere , Earl of xford ,

s s s h is and the in urgent Baron , when the Earl only aved life by plu n ging into the river under Ta dpol e ~Bridge and

e . New Bridge , wher in the Civil War a fight took place

H B a bloc k ere the Windrush j oin s the Thames. At

e e is e e s Hyth th re a ferry, and th r are many lock during 26 OXFORDSHIRE

s s thi cour e of the river . Rounding the wood s of Wytham

s s a it receive the water of the Evenlode , but before re ching Oxford it dividesitself into various sm a ll ch a nnel s a s it

s s s a m a O traver e the meadow of Wyth , le ving xford on

s s s s the left . The e tream , however , oon unite , and the river turns round the city and glide s beautifully through

C oll e g e B a rg e s a n d E ig h t s Oxford

t h e meads of Christ Church . The Cherwell join s the

s Tham es where the College barge are moored . Pro c eedin s s - s s g till outh ea tward pa t the old mill at Sandford ,

Ifll e a n d the Norman church of y, Radley , the lovely

s it f s s wood of Nuneham , low in a we terly bend to k Abingdon (Berks )where it receives the O c . Turning RIV ERS 27 s s s outh and then ea t , pa t Culham an d Clifton Hampden ,

s D s s a s it reache orche ter by a emicircul r cour e, where it is t h e s s - s joined by Thame , and then run outh ea tward to

s S Wallingford (Berks ). Pa t North Stoke and South toke

d n i s a n s ts s s . it glide , the reache mo t lovely cenery All

W h it c h u rc h

t h e G s s u n way from oring to Henley , ave for a mall

n s R is s i tere ting reach at eading , it girt by beautiful wood

on one side and not less beautiful meadows on the other .

W M . hitchurch , apledurham , and Purley are all beautiful

s s e . . S s Eyot or Eye ( g onning Eye)clad with willow , add 28 OXFORDSHIRE

e s t s a n d div r i y and beauty to the cene , by their name

s s pre erve the old Saxon word for i land . Near Reading the Thame s receives t h e waters of the Kennet and turns

- s s in a north ea terly direction toward Sonning and Shiplake ,

it s s s s welcoming on way the Loddon river , both the e tream

m s a s co ing in from the outh . Soon it re che Henley , and

H e n l ey B ridg e

s a s s oppo ite Remenham le ve the county, proceeding toward

s sea . se Wind or , London , and the The length of the cour of the river from t h e point where it first touches O xford s e s is hir to Henley, where it quit the county, about i 7 0 miles. With ts tributaries it drains about 5 0 0 0 square

s mile of country . Th e tributarie s of the Thames that run through the RIV ERS 29 cou n ty have cut th e ir way through t h e lim eston e hills and made narrow valleys.

s s s G s s e e The Windru h ri e in louce ter hire, and nt ring

O s xford hire not far from the ancient town of Burford ,

t h e s s fl s t in the delightful region of Cot wold , ow hrough

1 6 s It i the cou n ty a di stance of about mile . s a land of breezy down s and bare hill slopes with old grey farm

s Th e buildings dotted here and there over the field . Windrush run s clear and swift between pleasant meadows

s s a s s that go harply up to the north , where tand the l t tree

is t h e t h of t h e old forest of Wychwood . It unlike rest of e Oxford shir e rivers with their muddy banks and sluggi sh

e see t curr nts. Before reaching Burford we on the righ

s a s n n the picture que garden and f rmhou e at Upto . Upto

s e mill , once turned by the river , b longed to the Earl of

- n i . O s Warwick, the King maker the left Taynton

its s d h a s with intere ting Decorate church , which a good s e wa s t h Early Engli h chanc l . Taynton the home of e

s s Harman , who afterward removed to Burford Priory

- w a s ss . when it di olved Burford town (the Borough ford),

it s s s s s with all charm of hi tory and romance, we hall vi it

s s s it s s es again , and the Windru h pur ue cour e till it com

ss d - to another ford , called Widford (doubtle Wi e ford),

s s s a de olate place , an extinct pari h with a de erted church

St O s s dedicated to wald , urrounded by an overgrown melancholy churchyard on the green banks of the stream . In vain it s sweet bell in t h e bell - nich e bears the inscription

C om e ye a ll At m y ca ll

S od a ll erve G . 30 OXFORDSHIRE

Half a century h a s passed since a few village folk obeyed i s s s s . that call , and the de erted hrine fa t falling into ruin

n i O t s site once stood a Roman villa . A little farther

s - s n down the tream we come to a river ide inn , ear a bridge

s s s a t that pan the Windru h Swinbrook, where formerly stood the splendid man sion of the powerful Fet t ipla c e

s s O f s family, but both hou e and race have vani hed . thi family the old rhyme says

Th e T a s t h e a s a n d t h e Fet t i l a c es r cy , L cy , p

Ow n a ll m a n o s a s a n d a s s. the r , the p rk , the ch e

But now nothing remain s but their monuments and brasse s in the ch u rch . A little farther down the stream on the

a is s is s right b nk A thall , where there another bridge . Clo e

ss by , the Akeman Street cro ed the river by a ford . About i s s s s s. a mile outh A thall barrow, a relic of prehi toric time

s s s ss The Windru h proceed ea tward , and pa ing the lonely

s s s s s Min ter Lovell , which we hall vi it again , oon reache

Witney . The water s of the Windrush have certain peculiar

s propertie which favour clothmaking . D r Plot describes “ ” a s s s them ab ter ive , whatever that may mean . They

u s - m are found , however, to be eful in blanket aking, and

s have brought pro perity to the little town of Witney . “ s s s Fi h , too, thrive on the ab ter ive quality of the

s s s s Windru h water and are va tly uperior, we are told , to

s s m tho e in mo t other streams. Fro Witney the river

s s ss f turn outh , pa ing through a tract of lat narrow land “ s - s s a s inter ected by water cour e , known Ducklington ” ’ s is s Ditche , one of which called Emm Ditch , marking

RIV ERS 33

s t e d its direction till the wood of Wilco run own to edge . It s course becomes tortuous and soon t h e Blenh eim woods

on s e t h e Gl m e appear the left, with the tributary tr am y , which ri ses near Chipping N orton and flows past Kid din gt on and Glympton and through the ornam ental r wate s of Blenheim Park . The Evenlode then fl ows

s s s s almo t due outh , joining the Thame oppo ite the

s wood of Wytham . The Cherwell is the most important of the Oxford s s e s h a s se hire river aft r the Thame , and a cour of

s s s s thirty mile in the county . It ri e in Northampton hire , and on entering Oxfordshire n ear Wardington in t h e north of the county receives many tributary brooks and s s fl s du e s u s s e tream , owing almo t o th ave for a light curv

Its is e after passing Hampton Ga y. vale wid and Open

it s s n es during the upper part of cour e , u til it reach

s s s Banbury , where it coop out for it elf a narrow valley s O s s imilar to many other xford hire river , forming very pl easant and attractiv e features of t h e scenery of the

s s s of shire . For ome di tance it form the boundary

ss s e the county until it pa e near Clifton , having r ceived rb rook r t h e waters of the So and Sw e e tributaries. The

S e s e S ff s its wal , a mall riv r from which walcli e take name ,

r k ss - is a tributary of t h e Sorb oo . Pa ing the well wooded

s n s s park of North A to , the Cherwell create for it elf one of it s fairest reaches until Heyford bridge appears. The

w a s -a d- old name of the village Heyford Pontem , a very ’ e R D O ill arly bridge having been built here by obert y, ’ Its lord ofWallingford in the Conqueror s time . name s t h s e ignifies e pre enc of a ford that preceded the bridge .

D . 0 . 3 3 4 OXFORDS HIRE

O s s t h e s s ther bridge pan tream at North brook and En low, a n d the Akeman Street crosses the river betw een the m

’ w a s n ow ss s where there once a ford . The river pa e by a s s at h m m cene of de ol ion , the decayed a let of Ha pton

Th e h s is Ga . a s s y village only three hou e , and it a

' melancholy sight to gaze upon the ruins of the manor u s s e a n d t h e e ho e recently de troy d by fire , on burnt pap r

s. s s s e st s mill The bank are very teep here , and Oppo it and

- - th e picturesque church of Shipton on Cherwell . When

‘ w e ss s w e see t h e have pa ed the lofty pire of Kidlington ,

ss s Ray river , which , after pa ing through Bice ter and

O e m es e . tmoor, her co in on the l ft bank The Cherwell n ow flows on p a st the beautiful manor hou se of Water

s Eaton , pa t the magnificent pile of Magdalen College ,

and pours into the Tham es j ust below the College barge s.

It s e s beautiful lower reach , b decked with lilie and lovely

s is s s water plant , much frequented in ummer by uch

undergraduate s a s prefer dream ing i n a p u nt to t h e more ) t s renuous work of the Eights. The last Th a mes tributary that run s through t h e

is s s s county the Thame , which ri e in Buckingham hire and fl ows through the town that takes its name from t h e

’ is i e . s s m s t s riv r It not a very intere ting trea , pur uing uneventful course for the most part through fl at m eadow-f

A ‘ s s i lh m n . C h se a t o land bridge pan it at p , long and

i - s narrow, with bold proj ect ng cut water , carrying the road over two branche s of the stream and low- lying

s. e meadow Here , on the morning of the battl of Chalgrove

“ ’ s s k e e t h e ofc es Field , a kirmi h too plac b tween royal f under Prince Rupert and the arm y of the Parliamentarians RIV ERS 35

( s 1 t h e rnc led by Joh n Hampden , who for ome t me kept P i e

‘ n s t h e is at bay ; O the other ide of river Stadhampton , ’ O s l wa s . s where John wen , Cromwell chap ain , born Pa t

e f s s N wington and Drayton the Thame low , and ju t below Dorchester r each es the plac e

“ Where bea uteous I si s a n d her husb a nd Th a m e With m ingled wa ves for ever flow t h e sa m e

s s s South of thi there are no tream of any importance, the Chiltern di strict b e ing badly supplied with water except

near the Thame s. The Stour r ises In the county near Tadm arton heath and Hook Norton and fl ows we stward through Swalcliffe

’ h e On t h e s S e s t . common , oon leaving county ea t id of

t h e O s s s e the county river u e touche it, forming for om

t h e t h e s di stance boundary of hire .

6. eol a n G og y d S oi l s .

Geology deals with t h e rocks which form t h e outer

us s s part or cr t of the earth , their tructure , content , and

i e s s relat v position s. It further inve tigate their mode of

r s fo mation and the law which regulate their arrangement,

‘ a nd es s t h e fl e s e t h e d cribe in uenc they have on the c nery,

t h e agriculture, and mineral wealth of the country .

R s a re s ss s t h e e s oc k u ually grouped in two cla e , Ign ou

s. s a s s and the Aqueou The e , their name imply, owe

e their condition , the former to the action of fire, or mor correctly the internal heat of the earth , and the latter to t h s s e action of water . As the Igneou rock do not occur — 3 2 36 OXFORDSHIRE within the boundaries of our county and have only a remot e connection with its geology they need not be further noticed here . The Aqueous rocks a re generally fo u nd arrange d in

e s s lay r or trata, and were originally laid down beneath the Th s s s s s. e s water in lake , e tuarie , or ea con tant movement of s s the water wears away the urrounding land . Wave

s s ffs off m s da hing again t the cli break frag ent which , falling

s s . s on the beach , are worn into pebble , and , or mud River

s w s s s al o bring do n great quantitie of ediment, the re ult of t h e waste of the land surface under the influence of frost

s m s s and rain . The e aterial get wa hed away by tidal and o s s s sea -fl t h e ther current and depo ited in bed on the oor,

off e coarser near land and the finer farther . Mix d with them are t h e remain s of plants and animal s which lived and di ed during t h e tim e each particular bed w a s being laid down . ’ ss s s In proce of time , by local movement of the earth

s se s s m e cru t , the bed perhap beco e el vated into dry land , ’ the water move s offinto other depressions in the earth s s t h e s ss is urface , and ame proce again gone through .

s s s sea Thu record of the former di tribution of land and ,

s s s of the form of life which then exi ted , and con equently

es s s of the climat which prevailed , are pre erved in the rock . The crust movements hav e affected the rocks in

ff e di er nt degrees. Some while being elevated were s s harply folded , and had their higher part worn away b e fore they were aga in depressed and another stratum

s s laid down upon them . O ther retain almo t their original horizontal position so that t h e newer beds only gently S UB DIV IS ION S C H A RAC TE RS or Roc

M e ta l Ag e De posits N e ol1t b 1c S u erfic ia l De osi s Pa la e olith ic p p t Gl a c ia l Crom er S erie s We yb ourn e Cra g C h i esfor a n d a n s c h i Pl ioc en e ll d Norw wh Cra gs S d efl y Re d a n d Wa lton Cra gs Cora llin e Cra g Mioc en e Abse n t from Brita in Fluviom a rin e B e ds ofH a m psh ire B a gsh ot Beds Eoc en e Lon don C la y Cla ys a n d S a n ds c h ief Oldb a ve n e s oo c h a n d ea in B d , W lwi R d g Th a n e t S a n ds [Groups Ch a lk Uppe r Green sa n d a n d Ga ult C h a lka t t op Cret a c eou s o er re e n sa n S a n s on es M ud a n L w G d d t , Wea ld C la y C la ys b e low H a stin gs S a n ds Purb e c k B eds P ortla n d Be ds K im m e ridge C la y C ora llia r B eds xfor éla a n KeIIa a s R S h a e s S a n C"s on es a y oc k l , n J ura ssm O d d w y t Com bra sh Oolitic Lim eston es Forest M a rb le Grea t O olite with S t on e sfi el d S la te I n fe rior Oolite a s—U er i e a n d o er Li pp , M ddl , L w Rh a etic K e upe r Ma rl s K e e r S a n s on e R ed S a n s on e s a n d Tri a ssw up d t d t U e r n er S a n s on e a rs s m a n d pp Bu t d t M l , Gyp u Bun te r Pe b b le B e ds Lower Bun te r S a n dston e M a gn e sia n Lim e s ton e a n d S a n dston e R e d S a n d ston es a n d Perm ia n M a rl S la t e M a gn e sia n Lim eston e Lower Pe rm ia n S a n dston e

Coa ea s res S a n s on es S h a e s a n l M u d t , l Mill ston e Grit C oa l s a t t op Ca rb oniferou s M oun ta in Lim eston e S a n d st on e s In m iddl e k s Ba sa l Ca rb on ife rou s Roc s Lim e ton e a n d S h a l es

er R e d S a n s on es U pp t , evon ia n a n d l R ed S a n ‘ d M 'd I D O d d S h a e s S a e s a n d Lin D on ia n l , l ev ston e t Lower l l ston es u low e s L d B d S a n s on es S h a e s a nt d t , l Sil uria n We n loc k Be ds Th in Lim e ston e s Lla n dove ry B e ds

C a ra oc e s Sh a e s S a es d B d l , l t , Ordovi cia n Ll a n de ilo Be ds S a n dston e s a n d Are n ig Beds Th in Li m eston e s Tre m a doc S la tes a F a s Ca m b rian n ul l g M e n e via n Be ds H a rl e c h Grits a n d Lla n b eris S l a tes

Pro-Ca m b ria n N o defi n i te c la ssxfi c a t ion y e t m a de 38 OXFORDS HIRE

d . O e s overlap them th r again have been buried deep own , almost beyond the li m its of observation .

s s s in Although a great variety of rock exi t even a . s a s s s m ll country like England , it mu t not be uppo ed that

n more than a few c a be found in any one locality . Some of the beds were originally of only sma ll extent and others have been widely destroyed during periods of

s s elevation , cau ing gap to occur in the regular order of i s ss . s ucce ion However , when the whole country ex

l ored s s s p , many of the e gap can be filled up by example taken from other localities and it becomes possibl e to

s e s con truct a table lik that given on page 37 , howing the position and age of any bed or format ion relatively to

e s. s osit 10 n s s the oth r And the e relative p are con tant .

“ O nce identify a bed a s belonging to on e of the great systems and we know that it is n ewer than those lower

s down the diagram and older than tho e above, although

s s none of them may be seen for many mile away . Fos ils

s s a a s a e are excellent help in identifying tr ta, each g had it s s s own peculiar form of life , the remain of which are preserved in the rocks of that period . With most peopl e the study of geology begi n s with

da s ss s. s s an intere t taken in fo il The e me l of creation , a s so s w they have been called , much like , and yet omeho

a s s unlike, the rem in of creature now living, and their position in the solid rocks far from the seas in which the se

s s oft h e organi m now live , early attracted the attention

s s s curiou , and their beauty the de ire of tho e who made

s sm s s ] collection . The all tone quarrie which formerly abounded throughout the northern and central parts of

40 OXFORDSHIRE

The Lower Lias consi sts of blue clay with many hard

s s f s layer of impure lime tone , and orm the low ground

e e north of Banbury , extending th nce ov r the broad plain

t h e s M s is at foot of the Cot wold Hill s. The iddle Lia more sandy and contains a hard rock-b ed known a s t h e

M s s s s a of arl tone , which tand up in the bold e c rpment Edge Hill and dips gently thence along t h e hill- tops near Banbury till it di sappears beneath the clays of the upper

s e s s divi ion about D ddington . In place it contain iron ore h a s e a wl e e , which be n worked at F y, Add rbury , and

Hook Norton . The Lias w a s deposited in a shallow sea bo rder ed by

s s s s a e land con i ting largely of rock of Carboniferou g , whose dark shal es supplied t h e m u ddy sedimen t of which

s a re the trata composed .

sea s n e s e The warmed with livi g cr ature , chi f among

' which wer e the gr eat reptil es Ic /yz‘byosa u rus and Pleszosa urus together with countl ess ammonites and belemnites. Remains of the se may easily be fou n d among t h e fossils

s from any Lia quarry . The Lias is 1 360 feet thick at Chipping Camd en

G s s s s 6 2 e in louce ter hire , but decrea e to 7 f et in the Burford boring and to probably less in the southern part

O s t h e M e s s of xford hire , Upper and iddl divi ion thinning v ery rapidly in that direction . Next abov e it comes t h e great series of rocks known a s O s es s s the olite , from the fact that many of th e lime tone h are composed of small round grain s like t h e roe of a fi s .

Th e s se s th e O e lowe t member of the rie , Inferior olit , crosses the county in a narrow band near Chipping GEOLOGY AND S OILS 41

s s s s Norton and con i t of variable layer of rubbly oolite ,

s . It s ss O s marl , and rag tone average thickne in xford hire

is 0 s t - s about 3 feet , but it become thicker both nor h ea t

s - es e ward and outh w tward , attaining in the latt r direction

ss 2 0 s s e a thickne of 5 feet in the Cot wold Hill , wher it

a s a s s s ss cont in m ny divi ion of trata with marine fo ils. North- eastward in Northamptonshire it s fossil s a re of an

s s e n e e tuarine character , howing that a large riv r e t red the sea ss O s is in that area . A common fo il in xford hire the

n Cl eu s loti is s w a s s echi oderm yp p , which it aid once u ed

for pound weights in the country di stricts. Now it may be occasionally seen forming the borders of fl ower- beds o and ther ornamental garden work .

Th e is G O s es next formation the reat olite , a eri of

a s massive limestones with interbedded marl b nd . About

1 0 O s s l 3 feet thick in xford hire , it cover the high and “ ” or wolds in the centre of the county and h a s a steep escarpm ent facing the north-west and also along some of

t h e se es s the river valleys. In the lower part of ri occur

f s St on esfi eld s - S s the amou late , a thin bedded helly lime tone which h a s be en worked sinc e Roman times for roofing

is s . s s material , but now very little u ed Hou e roofed with thi s material have an a pp earance which for pict u resquen ess

h e will compare with any other kind of buildi n g . T

ss s Ston esfi eld s a re s fo il of the late of peculiar intere t , especially the remains of small mammals which wer e recogni sed by the celebrated palaeontologi st -Cuvier a s

a 1 1 long ago s 8 8 . The latter are however extremely

e e ss s a re s rar , but oth r fo il fairly common and are aved by

t h e quarrymen for sal e to vi sitors. 42 OXFORDS HIRE

A fine Section across the Inferior and Great O olite of

' " Oxford shire wa s recently exposed in the cutt i ngs for the

n ew w rail ay from Aynho to Bicester .

i Down the dip South - e a stward the Great Oolite is

s s t h e s overlaid by two thin but intere ting formation , Fore t

M arble and the Cornbrash . The former owes it s name

' to the fac t that formerly it w a s qua rried in the old forest

dist fic t w - s of of Wych ood , north ea t Burford , and the harder bed s poli shed and used locally for chimney- p i eces ” m - The in the far house s. Fore st M arble con si sts of Shelly

st s s - s lime one , frequently fal e bedded , the re ult of having

la id u dow n s en s been in hallow water with rapid curr t .

It s ss s i s 1 0 fe thickne in Oxford hire var e from 5 to 5 et .

bo s s s s s s e s It a und in hell of mall oy ter , and echinod rm

b s are y no mean rare .

" s is s s The Fore t Marble ucceeded by the Cornbra h , an old agricultural term applied to stony and brashy soils

s n suitable for the growth of corn . The Cornbra h formatio con sists of irregular layers of rubbly limestone with

1 a s oc c a s 0 n l seam of marl and clay . Although only from

1 0 2 0 1t IS it s to feet thick, remarkable for uniform fl e e . ss s d v lopment throughout the county Fo il , chie y

shell s, are fairly common everywhere . Th e members of the Jurassic system already noticed appear to h a ve accumulated a s shoals and sand- banks

' a bu n da n c e s of in a shallow sea not far from land . The

a i s s or s organic rem n , and above all the pre ence of c al ,

m a s io seem to indicate a warm cli te . With the depo it n

' of t h e Cornbrash we see S i gns of a coming change . That formatio n w a s laid down in de e p e r and more GEOLOGY AND S OILS 43

‘ l s s It s s tranqui water than the preceding bed , and at clo e

° “ there w a s an irruption of mud into the sea and this

n ss f of a wa s contin u ed till a. thick e of 45 0 eet cl y laid

s s is a s down over O xford hire . Thi formation known the Oxford Clay and is largely worked for brickm aking

is in the neighbourhood of the city . It generally full of

ss s s a s s s s fo il uch ammonite and belemnite , while bone of

s w a s huge reptile are commonly met with . It probably

s e a s is depo it d with comparative rapidity , there no great

t h e s of it ss change in form life throughout s ma .

s e s Pre ently the wat r became clear again and hallower,

- s s n s s and sand bank were formed in place . O the e bank sh ells collected and gradually formed a solid fou n da t ion on /

s s is t h e which grew coral reef . Thi Corallian or Coralline

O so- e s is w a s olite , a call d epi odal formation that , it laid down dur ing an interval between two gr eat clays a n d w a s

e es s - s only dev loped in patch in tead of being wide pread . It is found however at interval s along a li n e reaching

s h a s from Weymouth to Yorkshire . In Oxford hire it b een much worked in the quarries about Headington and fl S . s a s ss s hotover It contain m ny intere ting fo il , chie y

s echinoderms and coral . At the close of thi s epi sode the muddy conditions

returned and the Kimmeridge Clay w a s deposited . Thi s

for K l m m e rid e mation , named after the village of g on the

s s h a s ss 1 20 0 f s Dor et coa t, a thickne of eet in the outh 1 0 0 e t o i e s s O s . of England , but thi . dwindle to f e in xf rd h r

t is as an d s 'O I , a rule, darker more haly than the xford Clay and may be seen in t h e brickyards on the west ern

s off Sh ot ov ide er Hill . 44 OXFORDS HIRE

At t h e close of the Kimmeridge Clay period the sea O s e s b egan to retreat from xford hire , but b fore thi finally took place sands and limestone s of Portland age were laid

’ i l o oa za versz ora C ora a n [sa stra ea ex l a n a ta C ora a n D p p lfi , lli p , lli

'

5 1m m K im . a n d C or. Gr /z a ea dz l a ta ta or a n d xf. C a 0 C . O yp , l y F oss il s oft h e K im m e ridge C l a y a n d C ora ll ia n

n ow down in the shallowing wate r . The se occur on

Shotover Hill and about Garsingt on and C udde sdon . Strata which have been referred to the overlying Purbeck

Beds exi st in small patch es at Garsi n gton and Brill . GEOLOGY AND SOILS 45

With these the deposition of the strata belonging to the Jurassic system closed and a period of local elevation

sses e s s e followed , during which great ma of the b d , e p cially

h e s e s s of t later one , wer wept away , leaving, in ome

s s s ca e , only fragment to tell of their former wide ex ten sion .

e s s s a s We now com to the Cretaceou y tem of form tion . The iron sa n ds with inte r- bedded clay beds on the top of Shotover Hill and extending along the ridge towards

s s Wheatley, together with imilar bed on Brill Common

s s s - just over the border , are uppo ed to be of fre h water origi n and of the age of Weald e n Beds of t h e south- east

iron sa n ds of England . The of Nuneham , Culham , and

G e s a e Clifton Hampden are of Lower re n and g , and were deposited along the shores of a sea whose waters lay to

- s s e s the south east . The e compo e the Lower Cretac ou

s s s ff e erie , and they u ered great local denudation befor the beds of the upper part of the system were lai d down

upon them .

Th e us s t h e G Upper Cretaceo bed begin with ault,

2 0 0 h a a dark blue clay locally about feet thick . It s been worked for brickmaking near Thame and again at

e t h e s t h e es Culham , wh re the clay pit on bank of Tham

s shows a very intere ting section . The Gault at thi s

s s m place re t directly on the Kim eridge Clay, all the i nterve n ing formations which were almost certainly de posited here having been denuded before the c ommence s s t t h ment of Upper Cretaceou time . Nex above e Gault

s G e s s e O s come the U pper re n and , repre ent d in xford hire

n a s M s 0 mainly by a rock know alm tone , about 9 feet 46 OXFORDS HIRE

t . s h a s a r s hick Thi rock , which an appe ance omewhat se ff re mbling chalk, di ering from that rock however in

s s s a s s being largely iliceou in te d of calcareou , form a well- marked ridge overlooking the clay plain north of

is s s Watlington , and expo ed in pit on Clare Hill . About 1 2 feet of Greensand succeeds and then begins

a m s on e u a n e a W a in on M l t Q rry , r tl gt

t h e great Chalk formation which forms the Chiltern

s th e s . Hill in outhern part of the county The Chalk,

“ u 6 0 ss is a s locally abo t 5 feet in total thickne , depo it of an

sea - s open which contained very little land derived ediment, being al m ost entirely composed of organic remain s e ither

a is entire or in a st te of com m inution . It divided into

s a is s three part . The Lower Ch lk characteri ed by the

48 OXFORDS HIRE

of e e h water and ice . Th s have worn away t e softer

s - s v s th e clay into low lying plain and river alley , leaving

s s s n s s s s a s more re i ting lime to e , and , and chalk tanding s — hill and table lands. The force of falling rain - drops and the alternate freezing and thawing of the surface in winter break up the rocks more rapidly than the running water can carry

e s so w e s s s the d bri away, and find what geologi t call uper fi c ia l deposits occurring over t h e greater part of the

n . s s s O cou ty In ome place , e pecially on the olitic lime

s s is e t h e s e s tone tract , there nothing mor than impl oil

e h form d by the di sintegration of t e solid rock in place .

s a s s is In other , on the Chiltern Hill , there a covering

s s s ss - - fl s ometime of con iderable thickne of clay with int , the result of t h e breaking up of clay beds of Eocen e a ge mixed with fl ints derived from the chalk and l eft behind

s h a s e ss when the calcareou part of that rock b en di olved . In t h e larger valleys again there is gravel and loam which the streams have brought down and have not bee n abl e

s a s es s to carry farther . The e often occur terrac at variou

s s e heights along t h e sides of t h e valley . In Oxford hir some of these terrace- gravels are noticeable a s containing fl s s of int implement , the work of the earlier race men ’ Wol verc ot e e s ou who inhabited the country . , Turn r C rt

e s n ear Wallingford , Cav r ham , and Shiplake are well known localitie s for the se relics. As might b e expected from t h e variety of rocks

s s O s occurring therein , the oil of xford hire are of many

As ss is different description s. a rule the Jura ic area well

M s M s cultivated . The arl tone of the iddle Lia and many GEOLOG"AND S OILS 49

“ of th e O olitic lime stones furni sh a soil well Sui t ed for - O x corn growing . The ford Clay where not covere d

- s is s ff ex en with drift or rain wa h often cold and ti , and p

it s i s e s ss. ive to cultivate , and ar a mainly under gra The

great plain w h ic h . c rosses the county along the foot of the chalk escarpment and connects t h e Vale of White Horse on t h e s i e s t h e s we t W th the Val of Ayle bury on ea t ,

s s t h e s t h e contain ome of be t corn land in kingdom . The tops of the Chil t ern Hills with their Covering of

s s e o poor tony clay w re formerly thickly wo ded ; and , though on account of the high price of corn they were

e for t h e at one time much brok n up tillage , arable land is now being replaced by planta tions and t h e di strict is

s e becoming a re idential rath r than an agricultural one .

— r l H or F n n Fl or . 7 . Natu a ist y au a a d a

The conditions of life and the character and climate of Brita in were very different in early times from wh a t

- s they are to day , and if we want to know the kind of animals which exi sted in former times it is n ecessary to learn what geology h a s to tell u s about the physical

w a s s aspect of the country . There a time when thi

a th e c ountry w s connected with continent of Europe . Th e English Channel and North Sea did not e xist and we re mere valleys with rivers running through the m fed by m any streams. Where the North Sea now rolls there w a s the great valley of the Rhin e and a s ther e were no oceans

ss s s s s to cro , animal wandered northward and we tward

D . o. 4 5 0 OXFORDS HIRE

' a s they pleased from southern lands a n d m a de their abode

ss ss s s her e . Hence the country po e ed the ame kind of

s e M animal s a s inhabited we t rn Europe . any of these

s a s ss s have become extinct , but we find their remain fo il ,

s s s embedded in various superficial depo it . Among t them

s s are the bone of the bear, reindeer, hyaena, two kind of

s s s s elephant , rhinocero , hippopotamu , uru , bi on , and red

s 1s s se s deer . The que tion ar e , how did the creature become

s s s extinct in Britain Why did they de ert our hore , or leave their bones in the caves and hills It is a little diffi cult to obtain an entirely sati sfactory

s s e s an wer , though one manife t xplanation account for

o . s s w a g od deal In many ca e , no doubt , they ere driven southward by the severe cold of the Glacial Period and by the time the climate had amelior a ted the sea it s s had worked way up the Engli h Channel , broken

ffs s through the chalk cli near Dover, and met the wave

Sea fl R e of the North which owed over the old hin valley . Hence th e animals from the continent could not return

re- to occupy their abandoned territory, and we have fewer s s a s pecie th n France or Belgium . Ireland became epa rated from Englan d before a suffi cient length of time had elap sed to permit of it s b ecoming peopled with all of the

a t h e s s s e s f una of latter country , and hence how fewer p cie than England just a s England shows fewer species than

s s the continent . The ame cau es which produced a dimi n u t ion of anima ls in Great Britain and Ireland a s com

' s n e s pared with tho e of the conti nt, al o led to the

s s les ening of the number of species of wild plant .

" Ther e a re t hre e sorts of plants in every country NATURAL HISTORY

1 N a tiv e la n ts S s e ( ) p , the aboriginal pecie , which hav

s : 2 D en iz en s s alway lived there ( ) , which are now almo t

n s e ative , but have at ome remot period been introduced ,

fi r o on ists e . s : C l . g the common elm or the Scot (3) , or plants or weeds that owe their occurrence to the opera

s e . . tion of man , . g the red poppy The total number of S pec i es of pl a nts native in the

B s s s is 1 0 s s s riti h I le about 7 5 and that of coloni t , denizen ,

' ’ a n d a lie n s 2 0 s 1 about 5 ; but , of the e , 44 are confined to the

e sea 1 a re e n ighbourhood of the , 7 confin d to Ireland , and 2 0 s s w 20 0 s to the Channel I le , hile are plant of northern

s so s a s O s . latitude , or are not found far outh xford hire

e 1 6 S s ss There are , therefor , 3 9 pecie which might po ibly

O s . se be found in xford hire Mr Druce , who book on the

fl is s s s s ora of the county indi pen able to the tudent, record that there have been found in Oxfordshire 847 native

s s s s plant , 49 denizen , and 43 coloni t , making a total of

a re 9 39 . Hence there no fewer than 430 S pecie s which

e i have not b en recorded . It s possible that some reader

s s s As s s may di cover ome of the e . Mr Druce ay , by a

st s s botani finality can never be attained , ince only a mall portion comparatively of the actual surface of the ground comes under h is observation and then only for a S hort ” time .

is s Botany clo ely associated with geology . Some

s s s s kind of oil are favourable to ome plant , while other

s ff u Th e plant require quite a di erent home and nurt re . region of Wychwood Forest on t h e limestone plateau

' rea rS m a n b ea u t ifu l f is y lowers. The orchid tribe well ’ s W s repre ented in the county . e have the bird s net

4—2 5 2 OXFORDS HIRE

s S it s s s s fl s orchi , a ingular plant, tem , eed , and ower all b eing of a dingy brown hue a n d looking at first sight like

s s its s a withered tem . It derive name from the hort thick fl s s it s s u s e hy entangled fibre of root , which remind of the sticks used by some of our l a rger birds in the frame

of s s f s work their ne t . It lower in June in the dark beech woods ofthe Chilterns and is known by botani sts a s the

’ ’ List era n ia us—a v is Listera m , the name being derived fro

a s s s M s . th t of the di tingui hed botani t, Dr artin Li ter

i r ida lis s s O. a m Another orchid the pyramidal orchi ( py ), a lovely plant that prefers chalky soils a n d grows among

ss h a s s fl s gra . It a tint of rich crim on purple , and ower

is s Ac era s in July . Another the green man orchi ( a n t/oropoploora )whose yellow and green flowers S how some

a m s faint resembl nce to the hu an figure . The bee orchi

i ra f s O. a e s ( p f ), one of the prettie t of our wild lower of a

s s s . s chalky oil , re emble a large velvety bee It bloom in

’ n e O /pr ; m usez era ss s June and July . O orchi s ( p y j ) a ume

fl s s s a s s the form of a y, and other pecie uch the mar h ,

s a - s the potted , the e rly purple , and the green winged orchi are to be met with .

- s O s North we t of xford , in the region of the old fore t

is fl s of Wychwood , a rich and varied ora, among t which ’ s C n o lossum o ein a le are the hound tongue ( y g fi ), the deadly

s At ro a bella don n a es night hade ( p ), lili of the valley, the ’ ’ H elleborus oetia us s - f , lady mantle , tooth wort, and moon

. s a e s s wort By the pool are found m ny b autiful edge ,

s s a n d m ss s bulru he , o e . In the marshy meadows adj oining the Thames and Cherwell quite a different vegetation is fou n d and the NATURAL HISTORY 5 3

s s fl s s s s. bank of the river abound with ower , reed , and ru he

' A very characteri stic fl ower is the fritillary (F rit z lla ria ' ’ m elea rzs a s s s- e g ) commonly known the nake head , v ry rare in many parts of the country but quite common

R e - s s es s s here . ar water plant ometim occur in thi di trict,

s e Nit ella muc ron a t a s among t th m , only three time pre

viou sly recorded in the Briti sh Isles. The fringed waterlily and t h e water violet are found in the river

' ' e s t h e - Aristoloe/n a c lem a tit zs n ar Bin ey , and birth wort ( ) at ’ G s s s s s od tow . The di trict about Boar Hill , we t of

O S s - s a re xford , and about hotover Hill , on the outh ea t, the most interesting portions of botani sing country in the

s centre of England . A long li t might be given of the

numerous flowers and plants that may be found there . The chalk hills of the Chilterns grow many plants which

s a re s are not found el ewhere , and gay with foxglove , ’

s s se s s. traveller joy , gentian , and veral kind of orchid The fauna of Oxfordshire includes some intere sting

s s s s creature . Foxe abound in the di trict hunted by the

S O s s s. outh xford hire , Heythrop , and Bice ter hunt The

is s s s s polecat till found in the great wood , and the toat love

s s s - s the bank of the Thame , where he catche water rat ,

s s s s. young moorhen , and other mall mammal and bird The badger exi sts fairly numerously and otte rs frequent

’ s it s s the Thame and tributarie , and are often hunted by

s s Th e s s s the Buck otter hound . quirrel , dormou e , harve t — — mouse t h e smallest of all rodents wood or long- tailed

s s se t h e field mou e , and hou e mou are plentiful , though

s s is so a w la t little pe t not plentiful s it a s. The brown

ra t h a s s s s Th e or common omewhat decrea ed in number . 5 4 OXFORDS HIRE

Wa s s it s s ter rat love the Thame and tributarie , and the

is s bank vole or field vole not uncommon . Hare abound in the county and the Peppard fa rmers hunt the m in the

s Chiltern country near Nettlebed . They are e pecially

s plentiful near Thame , Churchill , Lyneham , Sar den , and

s a m s Chadlington . Rabbit h ve di ini hed in number in s s s G G m w a s s but ome place ince the round a e Act pas ed , sw - s arm on the juniper covered down , where they can do

s a s little h a rm . In ome p rt of the county both hares and ra bbits are so plentiful that it would seem that the only effect of the Ground Game Act h a s been to lead farmer s

s s a s to pre erve the e anim l more carefully . Deer are kept

w s all a in t elve park , of them f llow deer . Before the enclosing of the forests there were plenty of red deer and ” - “ many poachers and deer ste a lers. Burford bait w a s

— a n renowned apple with a hook concealed in it, by

a nd means of which deer were caught then killed .

s is fi h w a s The Thame a grand river for s . It once

s s s s a almon river , before the numerou ob truction and the poll u ted mouth of the ri v er prevented thi s fi sh from coming

sea it s s s up from the in order to lay pawn . The almon

s s r it s will overcome all ob tacle in orde to beget young, but it cannot face the polluted waters of the Thames at

s s s s s s London . In recent year thou and of almon melt

so a s have been turned into the river , th t perhap it may a become a salmon river gain . The Thame s trout is finer than any trout found

s sh s s ea rliesf in the other river of the Briti I le , and from times the Tham es h a s been regarded a s one of the

most important angling rive rs in England . Dr Plot

5 6 . OXFORDS HIRE

hi h e s e s s h is a s w ch earched for p arl , but lo t labour , he could on ly ' fi n d t h e smooth sort and not tho se with craggy rough o u tside s in which the precious gem (accord ’ ing to Sir Hugh Pl a t s work on Toe yew el-bouse ofArt - a n d N ture s re e a ) could alon e be di scovered . With uch searches did thi s early naturali st and observer amuse and

instruct h is reader s in the year 1 67 7 . AS we have already noticed there is a great variety in

t h e s s s s s oil and cenery of the county, ome part being

s s s bleak and monotonou , other abounding in wood , while

s w e t low - a s along the river are and lying l nd , where in former days the wild- fowl shooter earned a substantial

s s e e h a s u d livelihood . Thi variety of c n ry prod ce a corre

s on din — s p g variety in bird life . The inclo ure of wild

s - s t h e tract of heather land and the tillage of the oil ,

s es s fl e cutting down of wood and for t , have had their in u nce

is s s s on ornithology, and it not urpri ing that many bird

s s have left their old haunt . During the la t hundred

s year the kite , buzzard , harrier , raven , and bittern have

s e practically di app ared , though they were fairly plentiful

formerly . Oxfordshire is too far inland to attract many of the winter visitors which are seen on the coast of East Anglia

h a s s s and Kent , but it a large number of the pecie which

- are common in the south ea stern di strict of Britain . Gull s of var ious kinds come up the Thames during severe

sea s u n weather at , and find a plea ant retreat on the

s M m s enclo ed Port eadow north of O xford . The nu erou

s s s s river , favoured haunt of the edge and reed warbler , attract many m igrants in their fl ight to and from their NATURAL HISTORY 5 7

s s s northern home , and many kind of wild duck, wan , and

other waterfowl .

- Altogether there a re 2 42 species of birds in the county

a s s of h a s ap rt from a few other , the pre ence which not

e s s is be n indisputably establi hed . Thi number larger than

f s that of t h e birds in the neighbouring countie s. O thi

s 60 s s 1 s 1 1 1 large li t are re ident , 7 periodical migrant , and

s s s Th e s w a s occa ional or accidental vi itor . Upper Thame

‘ e kin ds bu t form rly a grand region for waterfowl of all ,

drainage and i n closures have dimini shed their numbers. O tmoor before it w a s drai n ed and inclosed used to swarm

s h a s o with Wildfowl , and in pite of all that been d ne to

s s m s s s poil their paradi e , any till remain , and thou and are

captured in a decoy just over the Buckinghamshire border . The Chilterns with their juniper bushes attract the stone

n s s chat, whi chat , and wheatear , and here too may ometime

se t h e s be en the dotterel and tone curlew . The beautiful

s O s m sa a s s park of xford hire for excellent nctu rie for bird ,

s and waterfowl abound on the large ornamental lake . Oxfordshire people h a ve invented some curiou s names

s s s a is for the bird that vi it them . Thu quail called a

— - is s twit me dick, a golden plover a whi tler , a hooded crow

- iz r ss s e . a dun crow, a mi el thru h a g A green woodpecker

is s s s a hickle , wherea our Berk hire neighbour call the

“ ff a fll e r s is bird a ya le or , and the humble hedge parrow . y s n ur a med Billy . Those who wi sh to know more of t h e bird s of the ’ s A lin s cou nty hould consult Mr O . V . p book on the “ ird o Ox ords/i s s o of B s f f a m . Herein are no torie told y u

is s e t h e what to be e n at the other end of world , but 5 8 OXFORDS HIRE

s ow n n of thing at home in your native cou try , at your

s ss s own door , ea ily examinable with little travel , le co t , ” a a s s s c on and very little haz rd , Ma ter Childrey ob erved

a s a s 1 6 1 cerning another book long ago 6 .

8 . l m C i ate .

s is b f The climate of a country or di trict , rie ly , the

s s average weather of that country or di trict , and it depend

s s upon variou factor , all m utually interacting ; upon the

s latitude , the temperature , the direction and trength of

s e s the wind , the rainfall , the charact r of the oil , and the

s proximity of the di trict to the sea . The differences in the climates of t h e world depend

s ss mainly upon latitude, but a carcely le important i factor s proximity to the sea . Along any great climatic zone there will be found variation s in proportion to thi s “ ” s s proximity, the extreme being continental climate

t s s s in the cen re of continent far from the ocean , and “ ” ea insular climates in small tracts surrounded by s . Continental climates show great difference s in seasonal

s s s temperature , the winter tending to be unu ually cold

s s s a and the ummer unu ually w rm , while the climate of insular tracts is characterised by equ ableness and also by

ss. G ss ss s s greater dampne reat Britain po e e , by rea on of

it s s s it s e po ition , a temperate in ular climate , but av rage annual temperature is much higher than could be expected

m i s - s s fro t s latitude . The prevalent outh we terly wind cause a movement of t h e surface- waters of the Atlantic CLIMATE 5 9

s s s s - toward our hore , and thi warm water current , which

a s G is a s s we know the ulf Stream , one of the chief c u e of

ss the mildne of our winters.

s s t o u s Mo t of our weather come from the Atlantic . It would be impossible here within the limits of a short chapter to di scuss fully t h e causes which affect or control

s s ffi sa s weather changes. It mu t u ce to y that the condition are in the main either cyclonic or anticyclonic, which

s s s i term may be be t explained , perhap , by compar ng the

s s air current to a stream of water . In a tream a chain of eddies may often be seen fringing the more steadily moving central water . Regarding the general north

s a s s s ea terly moving air from the Atlantic uch a tream , a ch a in of eddie s may be developed in a belt parallel with it s s s s a s general direction . Thi belt of eddie or cyclone ,

s s its s s m s they are termed , tend to hift po ition , ometi e

ss s s s s s pa ing over our i land , ometime to the north or outh

is s s s of them , and it to thi hifting that mo t of our weather

s ss changes are due . Cyclonic condition are a ociated with a greater or le ss amount of atmospheric di sturbance ;

s anticyclonic with calm . The prevalent Atlantic winds largely affect our i sland

it s in another way, namely in rainfall . The air, heavily

s it s ss laden with moi ture from pa age over the ocean , meets with elevated land- tracts directly it reaches our s s— s hore the moorland of Devon and Cornwall , the Wel h

s s es mountain , or the fell of Cumberland and W tmorland

— s - s s s and blowing up the ri ing land urface , part with thi

s s moi sture a s rain . To how great an extent thi occur is best see n by reference to the map of the annual

CLIMATE

s e a t rainfall of England on the oppo it page , where it will

s is s once be noticed that the heavie t fall in the we t , and that it decrease s with remarkabl e regularity u n t 1l the least

is e s s s s 1 0 8 fall r ached on our ea tern hore . Thu in 9 , the maximum rainfall for the year occurred at Llyn llyda w in

s e 2 s i the Snowdon di trict , wher 37 inche of ra n fell and t h e s w a s in s lowe t at Bourne Lincoln hire , with a record

1 i s. s es s of about 5 nche The e w tern highland , therefore ,

a n e s e may not inaptly be compared to umbr lla, helt ring

s the country farther ea tward from the rain .

s s s The above cau e , then , are tho e mainly concerned fl in in uencing the weather, but there are other and more local factors which often affect greatly the climate of a

s a e a s s place , uch , for ex mpl , configuration , po ition , and

s . S s s e s oil The helter of a range of hill , a outh rn a pect,

s s s s a andy oil , will thu produce condition which may — differ greatly from th ose of a place perhap s at no great

— - distance situated on a wind swept n orthern slope with

a cold clay soil . If a ra nge of hill s lies across the onward path of

s - s t h e is s on“ moi ture laden wind , rainfall largely increa ed th e side facing the winds,and reduced over t h e country

s t h e s is d - in on the other ide of range . Thi evi ent

- O s e . s s s s n xford hir The outh we terly wind bring mo t rai ,

“ on account of their long sweep over the Atlantic ; but

'

' t h e rain clouds di scharge their moisture over t h e w est ern

s t h e s s hill , and therefore when wind reach the plain of

O s a s s s r xford hire they are drier , the air de cend to lowe

e s. h is s s on l vel T ere , for thi rea on , more rain the Edge ) Hills and in the Chiltern di strict than in other parts of t he 6 2 OXFORDS HIRE s e t h e st hir , and the rainfall in central di rict and in the north is fairly small . Inhabitants of O xford always speak di sparagingly of

s s is it s climate . A damp dull day with hower and fog

a s a a s O s alw y reg rded typical xford weather , but unju tly .

is The rainfall not remarkably heavy , though the proximity

' s s t 0 ke e s of the river Thame tend p the atmo phere moi st . The climate of the county is for the most part salubriou s and dry; but in winter colder than the other southern

s s s s di trict of England , e pecially in the bleak and expo ed

s s s Is . region of the Chiltern , though in ummer It warmer The Radcliffe O bservatory at Oxford is the only organi sed meteorological station of the first class in the

s S n s county, and though there are now everal other tatio , there is a dearth of reliable weather stati stic s elsewher e in

O s 1 s it s O s . 2 xford hire The b ervatory, erected in 7 7 , take

m m u n ifi c en t ff s name fro the Dr Radcli e , who built al o t h e ff R ff Radcli e Library and the adcli e Infirmary, and

s s h a s w a a benefactor to Univer ity College . It an octagonal tower designed from the Temple of the Winds at Athens and surmounted by a l a rge globe supported by

t is e figures of Atlas and Hercules. The O bserva ory fitt d

t h e s m s s s with be t odern a tronomical in trument , and the m height of the barometer and ther ometer , the direction

s s t h e a re s of the wind , and the tate of weather regi tered

s s a s continuou ly by an ingeniou appar tu of photography .

O s The average rainfall at xford , the mean of 94 year , is 2 6 0 1 s s s 3 inche , and it may be concluded from rea on s s s tated above and from actual ob ervation , that the rainfall

s is t w o s on the Chiltern about inche higher, and that there

6 4 OXFORDSHIRE of s e e hour , and though we hav no r liable statist ics from

s s o place further away from river fog , we may c nclude t is e hat it a little brighter ther .

— . P eo l e e D l e S e l e m e n t s 9 p Rac , ia ct , tt , P on opu l at i .

Oxfordshir e at the time of the Rom a n conque st of

w a s a s s Dobu n i Britain inhabited , we have aid , by the , a warlike Celtic trib e who had for their neighbours other

s s s . powerful tribe , who e name have already been recorded Amongst them were the C a t u vel a u n i on the west (famili a r to the readers of Tenny son a s the C a t yeu c h la n ia n s)with

Dob u n i whom the were continually at war , and who , at

s t h e s e one time , held all the di trict , making Edge Hill th ir

Dobu n i s western boundary . The ubmitted themselve s

s s h a s fe to Aulus Plautiu at Cirencester . Oxford hire w

s S s t h e Roman town , though it could how many fine villa , residences of powerful Roman s. During the four centurie s

t h e s s is of Roman rule , hi tory of the di trict a blank .

ss s s s Doubtle many of the Briton lingered on , lave and

s a n a s s servant of the Rom lord , or wild outlaw in the

s . great wood , ever ready to raid or attack a lonely farm

t h e s s s But Roman di appeared and the Saxon came , and

s thoroughly coloni sed the di trict . The Celts however left traces of themselves behi n d

’ “ Th e w ords Th a m es th em in t h e names of the rivers.

’ Te m ese Is s e o e or , meaning broad water, Thame , i , Ev nl d , or Avon lode a re all so , Ray, Cherwell , Celtic , and al P OP — DIALE oT S T M S 6 5 E LE RACE , , ET LE ENT

s -otri es s Dorche ter , the city of the Dur g , or dweller by the water . The Saxons thoroughly coloni sed the di strict and by

a m - s far the gre ter nu ber of place name declare their origin .

s ton loa m eld ord a re All word ending in , or , or fi , or f ,

e s a s s s Saxon , and wer fir t formed ettlement of Saxon

s s t h e s s O s is familie and clearing in fore t . xford hire a

a Saxon county , and the people ret in many of the charac t ri i e st c s s s. of their ance tor We are , however, not without s th Th r o s e s s. o e t ra ome trace of Dani h conqueror p , or p ,

s s s meaning a village , betray their exi tence , and the word

Du n t h ro s a n d Heythrop , p, Thrup , near Wood tock,

C oke t h or e S s s s p , how that they had ome ettlement or

s t h e s e f village in county . O xford hir folk are chie ly

s s - s de cendant of the Anglo Saxon . The great a n d powerful Norman families who came over with the Conqueror or subsequently rose to power

e s s v s s s hav given their name to ome illage and e tate .

s s Thu we find the Harcourt at Stanton Harcourt, the

s S s St John at tanton St John , the Baldwin at B rightwell

t h e ' Pe a rds P a rds Rot h erfi eld Baldwin , pp or yp at Peppard ,

s Rot h erfi eld s s the Grey at Grey . Sometime the Norman s

m w a s s gave a na e to a place , which afterward corrupted

s s s and Anglici ed . Thu the hill out ide O xford they

eloa t ea u ‘vert is ffi s in called , but it di cult to recogni e that

t h e - name the origin of Shotover of to day . There doe s not seem to have been any ext en sive im

of s s migration foreigner into Oxford hire . At the univer sit e s s s y th re were many tudent of other nation , and foreign teacher s and doctor s often taught in t h e school s of the

D . 0 . 5 6 6 OXFORDS HIRE

e s . s univer ity But all the were migratory, and had little ff . is e ect on the population of the county There , how

s s a ever , evidence that Flemi h weaver c me to Witney to

s improve the art of the clothier , and the family of Brabant is e specially mentioned in the record s of that town .

s a h a s s ff The county , being mo tly agricultur l , u ered

A n Oxford s h ire F a rm

ss h a s s from the depre ion which tried that indu try , and

h a s s s s the population decrea ed . Young men in the e day find the country dull and fl y to the town s for employment

s and amusement . It doe not always happen that they are

offin s a s s s better town , the rent and co t of living are

a s. s s s de rer, and they have no garden When the la t cen u

1 1 1 w a s m s of 9 taken , the population of the ad ini trative P OP — S M S 6 E LE RACE, DIALECT, ETTLE ENT 7

en s county w a s person s. T year earlier it w a s At the beginning of t h e nineteenth cen t ury it w a s so ther e h a s be en an incr ease during the

s is last 1 0 0 years. The great decrea e of the population

s s h a in the country village s. The uburb of Oxford s increased enormously along the Wood stock and Banbury

s s h a s road , and during the la t century added to it s s h a s s inhabitants. Caver ham become a uburban portion of the Berkshire town Re a ding ; it s inhabitants increased

8 1 8 8 1 6 80 1 0 1 t h e s from 35 3 in to 5 in 9 , and at la t

s s s s 8 cen u the number have ri en to 9 8 5 . Along the ’ s s s s t h e Thame bank many hou e have been built , but

—s s s old fa hioned market town , Chipping Norton , Bice ter ,

e s s Thame , and Witney , hav remained almo t tationary in population . The cen sus shows that in Oxfordshire t h e females e e t h e s 1 2 xceed d male by 3 7 .

1 0 . A r c l re M n C l v n g i u tu ai u ti ati o s , S o k W l n ood ds . t c , a

As agricultur e is t h e most important industry of the

es s s s county , it will be inter ting to tudy ome particular concerning it . A large proportion of the land is under

. G h a s s cultivation reat Britain acre , and

s s a re of the e acre being cultivated . The

s O a s s admini trative county of xford cont in acre ,

a n d es es a re including water , of th e acr under

t - n s cultivation , abou eight inth of the total area of t h e — 5 2 6 8 OXFORDS HIRE

. of s m s county But thi ore than half, or acre ,

s are permanent pa ture . The soil of Oxfordshire differs con siderably during it s

0 s length of 5 mile . We have acres of red land

s in the region of Banbury, Hook Norton , Adderbury , a n d is a m Wigginton , which good f r ing land , neither too light nor too strong ; acres of stonebrash round

s a n d Blenheim , Che terton , Witney , B urford , Charlbury , which 13 excellent for S heep and barley ; acres of fl - s is inty covered ground about the Chiltern , which not so fl s good , but the at arable field round Reading are pro

fi bl s t a e s . , except when they are burnt up in hot dry ummer

s s s s s Be ide all the e , there are many acre of varying oil ,

s m s which are u ed for grazing land and ilking pasture .

s O s s s The corn crop of xford hire con i t of wheat , i s s s. s barley, oat , bean , and pea Rye not much grown

s s in the county . Wheat crop occupy acre , about

is half the area used for thi s crop 40 ye a rs ago . Thi s

a s owing to the great decre e in the price of wheat , and to

s s the large amount imported , for ome quarter

m f s s u of wheat , in addition to uch lour , are ent to thi co ntry

h a s every year from abroad . Recently the price of corn been steadily advancing ; hence there h a s been a Slight

s it s is s increa e in cultivation , and it to be hoped that thi

s will bring some return of prosperity to the farmer . In 1 90 7 whe a t crop s covered acres ; in 1 9 0 8 the acr eage increased to in 1 9 0 9 to

s s s 0 s Barley occupie acre , wherea 4 year ago

s it s . O s it required acre for cultivation at , on the

s 1 86 other hand , have greatly increa ed . In 7 the acreage AGRICULTURE 6 9 under thi s cereal w a s i n 1 90 8 it h a d gone up to but in 1 90 9 it had dwindled to

s s s s As Vetche , turnip , and wede are largely grown .

S a se e s O s a s we h ll pre ently, xford hire f rmer breed many s a s s s heep and c ttle , which depend for their ub i tence on

s s s s s a s e a s the e crop of turnip and wede , w ll on corn , cake ,

S a re in s s and hay . The heep penned hurdle on the field

Oxford D ow n R a m

n d s s s a con ume the root on the ground , thu tending greatly s s to manure and enrich the l a nd . Mangold have ri en in favour recently for the fee ding of sheep and are much cultivated .

s O s is s a s The oil of xford hire uitable for pot toe , the acreage of which h a s doubled during the last 40 years ;

s a s a s and lucerne , ainfoin , red clover , well white , and trefoil are much sown . 7 0 OXFORDS HIRE

The O xfordshire live -stock requires little description

s . except the heep , which are an important feature Farm

s s hor e have recently improved in quality, but everywhere the increased u se of m achinery for farming purpose s

s m s s s tend to di ini h their number , and motor and team

s s e s s . tractor will , perhap , render the bre d of hor e extinct

- s s s s Short horn cow are u ually found on mo t of the farm ,

sa - s ss and ndy coloured pig , a cro between the Tamworth and the Berkshire breeds. The Oxfordshire sheep are “ s a s O famou , and are known the xford Down or “ ” n s ss s Dow Cot wold , a cro between a Cot wold and

s fl s a Hampshire . They produce plendid eece of wool is and good mutton , and there not a better breed in

n O s S Engla d than the xford hire heep , which an old “ ” s agricultural writer call the glory of the county . A “ s h a s s - s so ss recent ob erver aid of them The heep gro , so s so s m uperb , immen e , have been co memorated by many arti sts of an earlier day . You can hardly enter a farm house or an inn without se e ing these unwieldy objects

s limned for your admiration , and you wonder how uch s so fl small legs could upport weighty a eece . But it is these same sheep that gave the Cotswold s their old pro s

erit s s p y, and made Northleach and Burford , and uch town - s s s rich in their wool tapler , who belonged to the taple of ” s s e s s s Calai . The ame writ r peak of the Cot wold dog “ a s a great woolly creature with very little of a tail, and ’ s s h is gambols remind one of Macaulay hippopotamu . B u t he is a fa ithful animal and most intelligent in the driving and herding of sheep .

s 1t e s s s s e In p of the de truction of wood and fore t , ther

7 2 OXFORDS HIRE

d 1 2 8 s a n . m s feet 4 inche , a beech 9 feet Dr Plot ention an oak near Nuneham Courten a y th a t S h a de s 460 square

s 2 20 m en s s s yard , beneath which 4 could helter them elve

su n . a O from rain or At M gdalen College , xford , there w a s s a 6 8 s a s a t R c ot e an oak that h ded 7 qu re yard , and one y

s s n th a t shaded 97 2 quare yard . O Kidlington Green w a s a gi a nt hollow oak that w a s used for i m pri soning v a ga bonds for a night before they were rem oved to Oxford

a n d s gaol , eight or ten could be conveniently hou ed , the tre e being 2 5 feet round .

1 In d r e s a n M n f re s s 1 . ust i d a u actu

The county h a s several i m portant industries a n d

s s manufacture , ome of which depend largely for their

h a s support on the needs of Oxford University . It few

AS natural products to aid it in it s industri a l enterprise .

s s w a s a ss t h e already aid , the Thame river a valu ble a et in days before railways were invented . It opened the London s O market for the good of xford and Henley , from which place malt w a s sent to the m etropoli s in very early time s. The pure waters of the Cherwell induced the leather dressers to establi sh their industry at Oxford in the seven t een t h s s u ss century, and tho e of the Windru h do btle partly accounted for the excellence of the Witney

f s s s blankets. The rich leece of the Cot wold heep made

s - s s - a w a s thi wool trade pro perou , and cloth we ving extensively carried on in most of the town s a n d villages of the shire until stea m a n d coal turned the fortunes of INDUSTRIES AND MANUFACTURES 73

the textile industry el sewhere . An important natural product is the building-stone which abound s in many

s m s is part . Clay for aking brick plentiful , and the iron ore which w a s di scovered in the northern p a rt of the

0 s h a s s county 5 year ago been exten ively worked , and

on e a s a s n s 2 1 in year much to , worth £ 7 7 ,

is s s have been dug up . The ore ent to the furnace of

ff s South Sta ord shire and North Wales. The e are th e only indu stries that ari se out of the n atural products of the county . The presence of the University at O xford h a s called

s ss IS s into being the Univer ity Pre , which the large t

s s concern in the city , employing everal hundred of work

. s people It date back to the dawn of printing in England , ’ its s se s s earlie t book , a treati on the Apo tle Creed , having

1 68 a s st s s 1 8 . been printed in 4 , or mo cholar think in 47

The hi story of the Pre ss h a s not been continuous. There have been breaks and period s when there w a s no printing

ss O 1 1 w a s pre in xford . In 5 7 printing revived , continued 1 8 s s . O for a few year , and then cea ed In 5 5 the xford

ss a s h a s s Pre ag in tarted , and continued ever ince to pro duce the copies of the Holy Scripture s and works of

i ss s learning for which it s famous. Countle number of

s P s book have i ssued from thi s ress. When the Revi ed

s s w a s ss M a 1 Ver ion of the New Te tament i ued on y 7th , 1 88 1 s s s . , a million copie were old on the fir t day Since its first commencement in 1 47 8 to the beginning of the

s h a s s 8 0 0 pre ent century it printed work , and 9 of these were i ssued during t h e latter half of the nine t een t h wa s a century . The printing for over century

INDUSTRIES AND MANUFACTURES 7 5

t h e a carried on in Clarendon Building in Bro d Street , ’ which w a s erected out of the profits of Lord Clarendon s

H istor o t/o ebellion y f e R . Next to the printing of books come s their clothing

s s w a s O and binding, and thi indu try carried on in xford

s long before types and printing presse were invented .

‘ O n e La u ren c iu s w a s a b ookbin der a t O xford at the end

R oom in t h e B odl e i a n Libr a ry

s s of the twelfth century , and ince that time the name of many binders appear in the city records. When Thomas

m s a s Bodley founded the fa ou Bodlei n Library , in the fir t

s w a s s e s t h e year of Jame I , there an enormou incr a e in

h a s s fl s t h e s a trade , and it ince ouri hed in hand of m ny

s s s di tingui hed and accompli hed binders. Another branch of book production is the trade of parchment and paper 7 6 OXFORDS HIRE

m . O n e aking Reginald , a parchment maker, lived at

O a t s u xford the clo e of the twelfth cent ry , when Lauren m s w a s s. s a s s ciu binding book The e tr de en , with other

C a t a m of their calling, lived in Street, at ti e when the members of a p a rticular calling always were required to

a m - re side in a certa in row or street . P rch ent making

W ol v e rc ot e P a p e r Mill s f s s louri hed until the end of the ixteenth century , and then

a s the making of paper beg n . Several mill for making paper have exi sted in the county and still carry on their W l r . s a s is o ve c ot e s trade The mo t f mou that at , tarted

1 666 s s s in , which continue to produce ome of the be t

e is s pap r in England , and now owned by the Univer ity

ss. m s s s Pre Another ill exi t at Eyn ham , where leather INDUSTRIES AND MANUFACTURES 77

s . a board are now made Sandford mill , once corn mill , h a s a s s . a long hi tory, and produced coloured p per The

s O s e Weir mill near xford , and everal near Henley, hav

st also contributed to thi s indu ry .

- s a s a s 6 a n d Cloth weaving exi ted at Witney early 9 9 ,

a t 1 1 0 s s a re s s. Oxford in 3 . At lea t the e the earlie t record

a a s a s Burford , Chipping N orton , and B nbury, well

O f s s s xford , were louri hing centre of the indu try in the s m ixteenth century . William Stu pe , who converted

M s s alme bury Abbey into a cloth factory , wi hed to do

s O s s the ame with ney Abbey , but owing to the condition

h i w a a s s s . required by the corporation , cheme ab ndoned In the eighteenth century the trade of the weavers flour ish ed s - w a s , and in many of the village hand loom weaving carried on .

w a s f s s s Banbury chie ly famou for making wor ted plu h ,

S s - and till carrie on that trade . Web and girth making are

s al o carried on there .

s - s s Hor e cloth are till made at Chipping Norton , but modern methods with the u se of coal and stea m have s s O s a n d a s ilenced the loom of xford hire , tr n ferred the trade to the m a nufacturing di stricts of Yorkshire and

n d s . s s s a S Lanca hire The weaving of ilk tocking , ilk “ w a s throwing or winding, carried on in the county

O a s h a s s . at xford , B nbury, and Henley, but thi too vani hed O n t h e borders of Buckingh a m shire lace is made in many

s s . e cottage , the indu try having improved from the r vival

h a which a s ta ken place in recent ye rs. The leather-tra de once flouri shed in many parts of

w a s s its s s. the county , and Burford famou for addle 78 OXFORDSHIRE

O n two occasions it had the honour of pre senting — speci m en s of the S kill of it s saddlers to roya lty on the

s a s 1 68 1 a vi it of Ch rle II to the town in , and th t of

C a e S o a n u r k h p , B b y

m 1 Willia III in 69 5 . Gloves are m ade at Woodstock a n d s is a s the indu try very ancient , having cert inly exi ted

n in Saxo times.

8 0 OXFORDS HIRE

Malting and brewing have flouri shed in several Oxfordshire town s and the industry is still widely carried

i a s a s s s s. on , al o the manuf cture of tile and brick The req u irements of modern agriculture have created the exten sive industry of making agricultural machines

is a s a n d a re s for which Banbury f mou , there large work

- s s s at Cowley . Bell founding till exi t at Burford , where ’ is e - s s e in the church there a B ll founder Ai le , and wher ,

a s w a s in the reign of Ch rle I , Henry Neale a celebrated

s s founder . Oxford and Wood tock al o contributed their

s of share to the bell the county . The pre sence of the grea t river naturally h a s brought

t h e s - ld into exi stence indu try of boat building . O barge s

s a s were made in former day , and now the n me of Salter and Clasper are famous a ll the world over for their s a s a s plendid racing craft, well for their motor , electric ,

s s. s s G and team launche B oat are al o built at oring,

Shiplake , and Henley .

s w a Chair are made largely at Stokenchurch , which s

s n formerly in the county , and al o at Chinnor, Watlingto ,

s . is s s it s s and Caver ham Banbury till famou for cake ,

s a s which can claim a very re pectable antiquity , they were in favour in the tim e of Queen Elizabeth ; and

m w a s it s s f for erly it noted for chee e , the ame of which h a s now vani shed . A S PECIAL INDUSTRY 8 1

1 2 A S ec l In t r W t n e . p ia dus y i y l n ke s B a t .

There is one manufacture for which Oxfordshire is

s is h e t s. e pecially noted , and that making of blanket All the world knows of Witney blankets and some account t h i e s s ss . i of indu try nece ary here It s certainly ancient . Even before the Norman Conquest the wool trade w a s

s ff carried on at Witney . The river Windru h a orded

s s excellent water for clean ing the wool , the Cot wold s s fl s e heep upplied rich eece in abundanc , and Witney

ss t h e s posse ed every advantage for trade . But who fir t invented blanke ts ? A story is told of on e Thomas

s is s 1 20 s Blanket of Bri tol , who aid in 3 to have di covered

ss s s s s the proce of making the e mo t u eful covering , and

h is s gave name to the material he invented . That tory

w a s may be true , and it may not . It probably invented

u se t h e is to account for the of word , which really derived from the French bl a n c h et (a white thing)and w a s in u se H in England in the time of enry II . We do not hear

s s much of Witney blanket before the reign of Jame I , though the woollen industry had prospered there for a

Bu t long tim e . after that period the trade in blanket

s s making grew and pro pered greatly, Witney blanket finding their way to all parts of England and even to the

s s native of Africa . The Wenman , Early, and Brooke families were t h e chi ef manufacture rs in the sixteenth

se e ee s 1 1 0 m er and v nt nth centurie . In 7 the Witney

s chant gained a royal charter , granted to the Company 6 o. D .

8 4 OXFORDS HIRE

1 rr e a n M n e r l . 3 . Q ua i s d i a s

t h e is With exception of the iron ore , which found in

t h e s h a s e northern di trict , an account of which already be n

n s O s . give , there are no important mineral in xford hire B u t it s stone quarrie s are numerou s and have had a great

t h e s hi story . All beautiful college of Oxford and the

e s of nobl churche that abound in the county, are built

is n ot s local ston e taken from these quarries. It pos ible that the founders of Oxford University selected it s site on the Thames because they were aware of the masses of stone which the neighbouring hills afforded ; n or did th ey anticipate the erection of such beautiful and extensive

s s college buildings a subsequently aro e . But they were

c ertainly fortunate in their choice . The county h a s

s s s s is numerou quarrie of free tone , lime tone abundant ,

and slate can be obtained in several places.

- s s s w a s e In Anglo Saxon time ome of the tone quarri d . ’ s O is The tower of St Michael Church , xford, con

C h ilsw ell structed of stone from the quarry at . So also

re m s t h e T e n a the re ain of Norman work in city . y t on stone wa s also u sed in early times. Headington and Taynton quarries supplied all the ston e for the fifte enth

s t h e century college and for Thame Church , and Burford and Holton quarries supplied their share for Oxford

s n eed s. Handborough and Wood tock open e d quarries

s e a n d St on esfi eld s e s s in the ev nteenth century uppli d late . ’ The stone for rebuilding St Paul s Cathedral is said to

s i have been brought from Burford . Thi latter s harder Q UARRIES AND MINERALS 8 5

s is and whiter than the tone of Headington , which liable fl e to decay and to t h e in u nce of the weather . O ther

s s a quarrie exi ted at Bladon , Little Milton , B rford , and

w a s s Hornton . Blenheim Palace built for the mo t part

m se is of Taynton S tone . So e coar marble found near

es h a s Banbury and in Wychwood For t . It been found necessary to reface parts of the walls of the colleges

n s owing to the decay of the Headingto tone, and the Milton quarries have supplied most of the ma teri a l for

s s 0 s thi work . There are till about 4 quarrie in the 1 0 county, but only about 3 quarrymen . People now

s s e s prefer to make their hou e of ch ap brick , and do not

e so s so a s s s car to build urely and well our ance tor . Hence the quarries are neglected and the industry is

decayed .

fl u s s is Brickmaking o ri he , and there an abundance

s of clay in the county . Kiln and brickworks exist near

O s e Wol verc ot e s xford , e p cially at and Summertown , al o

s in m ere G near Bice ter , at F , oring , Long Handborough ,

s a Caver ham , Nettlebed , Wheatley, Culh m , Banbury and

s e Th e el ewh re . clay at Shotover w a s used for making ’ tobacco- pipes for t h e King s soldiers when they were

quartered at Oxford during the Civil War .

- s s n There are plenty of grav el pit , e pecially ear the co u rse of t h e Thames a n d on the southern slope s of

h s s s the C iltern Hill . Flint picked from the urface of the field s on the Chiltern s furni sh excellent material for

- e ffi i road making wh n the tra c s not too heavy . 8 6 OXFORDS HIRE

f h n 1 H s or o t e C o . 4 . i t y u ty

O n s s the coming of the Roman , Cae ar could not

s s O s a n d w a s penetrate the fore t of xford hire , it left to Aulus Plautius nearly a century later to receive t h e

ss D ob u n i t h e submi ion of the . After the departure of

s - s e Roman legion the Anglo Saxon cam to Britain , and about the middle of the sixth century they found their way to Oxford shire . After taking Silchester they fought

s 6 B e ra n b ri B a rb u r with the Briton in 5 5 at y g, probably y,

s s C u t h w u lf h is s S s with only partial ucce s . and We t axon

1 B en sin t on s s in 5 7 took g , Ayle bury , and Eyn ham , and eventually overran the country . A long period of h anarchy en sued . T e West Saxons advancing from the south were confronted with the Mercians coming from

s S ix s the north , and the record of centurie tell of little but con stant fighting between this opposing power a n d their

s s Wu lfh ere con tant enemy, the Dane . , King of Mercia ,

s ss ss it s invaded Berk hire and took po e ion of northern part .

2 C u t h red ss ss s In 7 5 of We ex cro ed the Thame , fought

E t h elb a ld M of ercia at Burford , and conquered the “ n s s country . Battle Edge , ear Burford , mark the ite

w a s m a s a s of the battle, which comme orated late the

a s ss eighteenth century by fea t and a proce ion , when the figures of a dragon and a giant were carried through the

s street . O ffa of Mercia reconquered h is lost possession s by

B en in t on A D . winning the battle of s g in 7 77 . But Egbert of Wessex establi shed h is sway over Oxfordshire in 8 2 7 .

8 8 OXFORDS HIRE

1 a s a s s 9 4 they plundered far Hook Norton , and de troyed many town s and villages. Edward the Elder checked

s w a s s their ravage . Kirtlington the cene of a great

s s council in 97 7 . When the Dane renewed their ravage off Ethelred the Unready tried to buy them , and then on ’ St s Da 1 1 0 0 2 ss Brice y, November 3, , ordered their ma acre

a n d at Oxford . In revenge they ravaged the country burnt

S s s S O . xford The axon king had three palace in the hire ,

s s . G s Wood tock, Headington , and I lip emot were held

O 1 0 1 8 1 0 6 w a s in xford in and 3 , and it there Harold

a ss w a s s died . Edw rd the Confe or born at I lip , which he

t h e s s s gave to monk of We tmin ter . ’ s D O ill w a s After the Norman Conque t , Robert y the most i m portant person in the shire ; he married the

ss Wi od 0 heire of g , lord of Wallingford , and held 5

w a s s manors in the county . He ordered to build a ca tle ’ a s s t Oxford . Ca tle were built during Stephen s reign at

1 a s s s s m 4 pl ce , and the exten ive fore t invited the Nor an

kings to hunt the d eer . Henry I had a hunting lodge at

s a s s Wood tock, and built the pal ce of Beaumont ju t out ide ’ c iv1l Oxford . The war of Stephen s reign raged in the

Th e s . s O s county ca tle of xford , Wood tock, and Bampton

ss w a s s were held by the Empre Maud , who be ieged and

ss O f s hard pre ed at x ord , and e caped by night along the

s ess s frozen Thame dr ed in white , finding afety in the O 1 1 fortress of Wallingford . A council at xford in 5 3

ended the war . Henry II destroyed several of the castles erected in

h is ss s w a s s the reign of predece or . Wood tock famou for

s s w a s G s the tory of Fair Ro amond , who buried at od tow, M in s t e r L ov e ll 9 0 OXFORDSHIRE and at Woodstock first arose the storm that raged between

s t h e Archbi hop Becket and King .

O s Richard I and John were both xford hire men , the

a t former having been born the palace of Beaumont, the latter at Woodstock . Many parliaments and councils “ ” w O s s O ere held at xford , and there the Provi ion of xford 1 2 8 M were drawn up in 5 , which rank with agna Charta a s t h e s s e in afeguard of Engli h liberty . A notabl figure the hi story of the county in the thirteenth century w a s

R s a Richard , King of the oman , who had a p lace at

s a vest on a Beckley . Pier G w s impri soned at Deddington “ C a stle just before h is death at the hands of the Black ” Dog, Earl of Warwick .

a 1 8 Fighting took pl ce at Radcot Bridge in 3 7 , when

e O d Robert de Ver , Earl of xfor , a favourite of Richard II , fought aga inst the force s of the Earl of Gloucester and

O 1 s w a s e Derby . At xford in 40 0 a con piracy mad to murder King Henry IV a t a tournament and to proclaim a certain priest of M a gd a len College dressed in roya l rob es a s s Richard II returned to life . The con piracy failed and m a any noble he d s fell .

h e s s s ff T War of the Ro e a ected the life of the county . Romance States that in Wychwood Forest Edward IV

e first sa w and loved Elizabeth Woodville . The battl of

Da n esm oor w a s s , near Banbury, fought in thi reign betwe en an army of in surgents fro m the n orth and the

s s s royal force led by the Earl of Pembroke . The in urgent

s won , and beheaded the Earl and other leader at Banbury . The fall of Rich a rd III sea led the fate of severa l Oxford shire

m s m s s s . fa ilie , and a ong t them the Lovell of Min ter Lovell

9 2 OXFORDS HIRE

M a ny changes took place during the period of t h e

a s s O Reform tion . The eccle ia tical architecture of xford

ff a s - s w a s su ered at the h nd of the image breaker , and it not until the last century that the plaster w a s removed from ’ the reredos of All Soul s and the figures restored to their

s s s s s pre ent condition . With the poil of the mona terie

’ B a ll iol C oll e ge a n d t h e M a rt y rs M e m oria l

six s s O w a s Henry VIII founded bi hopric , of which xford

s s s one . The O xford hire ru tic revolted on account of the

n ew introduction of the Prayer Book, and an army of

w a s s s m a 1 0 0 . 5 men ent again t the Ridley, L timer , and ’ s ss Cranmer were burnt at Oxford in Mary reign . Prince Elizabeth during the reign of M ary w a s a pri soner at ’ c ot e s f R . s e y and Wood tock The Queen avourit , the HISTORY OF THE COUNTY 93

s . s a Earl of Leice ter , died at Cornbury There were ever l ]l s Rec u sa n t s a n d s m familie of in the county , among t the

St on ors S s the of tonor Park , who heltered Campion the J esuit and allowed h im to set up a secret printing

pre ss. Oxfordshire played an important part in the Civil

O w a s s ; s s War, for xford the royali t headquarter . Battle

were fought at Cropredy and Chalgrove , and at Edgehill ,

s e t h e s ju t b yond border of the county . The castle of

w a s Banbury a great centre of fighting, and the country

w a s s around pillaged by both belligerent . A little room

s s at Broughton Ca tle, the eat of Lord Saye and Sele O ld Subtlety -is pointed out a s the birthplace of the

w a s -fi e ld rebellion . The whole county a battle , and s s s kirmi he took place everywhere . The havoc wrought

w a s n s s s by the war terrible . Tow were pillaged , old hou e

s s s de troyed , Banbury Ca tle pulled down , and de olation

reigned . The rebellion of the Levellers troubled the Common

e s s s wealth , and Cromw ll took tern mea ure at Burford to

s s s s cru h the in urrection , three of the leader being hot

t h s s in e churchyard . The mark of the bullet on the “ m An t h on e 1 6 churchyard wall and the na e y Sedley 49 , ” risn er t h e p , cut on lead font in the church wherein the

s s L e veller s wer e confined are till to be een .

t h e s When Plague broke out in London , Charle II

e . e 1 6 8 1 repair d to Oxford Parliam nt met there in .

1 A Rec u sa n t w a s on e wh o a dh ere d t o t h e Rom a n C a th ol ic re l igion a n d f re u sed t o a c c ept t h e A c t s of U n iform ity pa sse d u n d er E l i z a b e th a n d s c c ee n so r i n s u di g ve e g . 9 4 OXFORDS HIRE

The efforts of Jam es II to Romani se the University met

s s a a with the tubborn defence of the Fellow of M gd len .

s s s The city ympathi ed with the fallen hou e of Stuart , and

s s w a s s s s We ley aid it paved with the kull of Jacobite . The squire s of the county meditated joining the ri sing of

Bl e n h e i m P a l a c e

1 is s s 745 , and the Pretender aid to have vi ited Lord Cornbury and to have been shaved by a barber of

Charlbury . Blenhei m Palac e w a s given by a grateful nation to

s a the hero of many fight , the great Duke of M rlborough . With the dying fl ickers of the fl am e of Jacobiti sm and

9 6 OXFORDS HIRE anima ls struggled for exi stence in the hills and vale s of a H is s s cold and inclement country . weapon and tool fl of s s m . were the rude t de cription , and ade of chipped int Eighty or ninety feet above the present level of the

s s a s s Thame at Caver h m , in the higher gravel , are the e

l s a re so a s re ic found , and they abund nt that the race mu t

a s s s have been f irly numerou . The hape of the weapon is su s u ally oval , and often pointed into a rude re emblance

s - fl - fl a kes of the hape of a Spear head . Some int are of the knife-like character others resembl e awls or borers with s s s s s harp point , evidently for making hole in kin for the

a m -s s purpose of con structing a g rment . Ham er tone for

s s s - fl a t s cru hing bone , tool with well wrought edge , s s s s -ih - e craper , and other implement , were the tock trad

t h e s s s of earlie t inhabitant of our country, and are di tin gu ish a ble from those used by Neolithic man by their

s w a s e larger and rougher work . An intere ting find mad — at Caversham the bone s of a m am m oth surrounded by

f s S n a large number of lint weapon , howi g that their owners had attacked and killed the mon ster with these

s. s primitive weapon During thi time , the elk and rein

a s s s deer, the gig ntic Iri h deer , bi on , elephant, rhinocero ,

s a n d s s hippopotamu , lion , bear other creature roamed thi

- country side .

After a lengthy period of geological change, Neolithic man appeared , probably peopling the country from the s u s s s a h is o th and ea t , a much more civili ed per on th n predecessor and presenting a higher type of humanity .

a S He had a peculi rly haped head , the back part of the s m s is kull being much prolonged , and fro thi feature he ANTIQ UITIES 9 7

dolielyoce /oa lie fl called p . He di scovered that ints that were dug up were much more e a sily fashioned than those which

s a s h is lay on the urf ce of the ground . He poli hed weapons and fashioned finely wrought arrow- heads and

1 P a a e o it c a n d 2 N e o it ic m em en t s . l l hi . l h I pl

- s - s javelin point . He made pit hut to dwell in , cultivated

u s s. s the gro nd , and had dome tic animal The long barrow

s is or mound , the length of which greater than the

h is s s s breadth , contain remain . We find uch long barrow

e t s at Lyneham and in Sla t pi s Copse in Wychwood Fore t .

D . 0 . 9 8 OXFORDS HIRE

Another wa ve of invaders swept over the i sland and

s conquered the Neolithic race . The e were the Celtic

s ss s people , taller and tronger than their predece or , and

a di stinguished by their f ir hair and rounded skull s. From

s s bra eb ee loa lic the hape of their head they are called y p ,

s - or hort headed , and are believed to have belonged to the

s w a s s . original Aryan race , who e birthplace Southern A ia

Th e R ollrig ht S t on e C irc l e

s e s Their weapon wer made of bronze , although they u ed

e s s A poli shed ston implement al o . S they became more

s s u se e civili ed they di covered the of iron , of which th y

- fashioned axe heads. Their remain s lie in t h e round

s a re n o e ss a n barrow , of which there l th 37 in the county .

s s s s The Rollright tone circle , which tand ju t on the county boundary about half a mile north- north- east of

1 00 OXFORDS HIRE

states that the Devil once played quoits with a beggar

h is s f s s for oul and won by linging the e great tones. All the se stone m onuments were probably rai sed by the

e Bronze Age people , and wer for the object of marking

’ R oll righ t C irc l e : t h e K in g s S t on e

s s s s. u R the grave of illu triou chief Aveb ry and ollright,

ss s s a made of undre ed tone , are more ncient than Stone

h a s s s s s henge , which immen e trilithon , or tone arranged

s a i in the h pe of a doorway . It s not improbable that the Rollright circle w a s formed a s much a s twenty centuries ANTIQ UITIES 1 0 1

s s e s m a n before Chri t . The relic of pr hi toric have been

s h is s found in all part of the county, and burial mound abound all over the portion west of the Cherwell . Great attention h a s been pa id in recent years to the

s e s s s. se tudy of arthwork , camp , and fortification The have now b e en grouped for description on a regular and

s t h e s scientific basis. The di trict of county we t of the

e s s t h e s Ch rwell contain mo t of early earthwork , which

s s - s s M a dm a rston clu ter mo t in the north we t of thi part . ,

s Tadmarton , Idbury, Lyneham , and Cha tleton belong to

s s e the Cotswold erie . Th re are several lines of entrench

s n s e s e ment in E gland , u ually call d dyke , and thre of ’ s is O s e . G s them exi t in xford hir There rim Ditch , or

G s e t h e S e rime Dyk , on north of Akeman tre t , another ’ Grim s Ditch in the south of the county between M onge “ ’ e 1 1 s in s w ll and Henley , mile length , with Madder ” a n d s 1 s Bank , near it parallel to it, ome 4 mile in

e e is e en t ren c h m en t w c a ll e d l ngth . Ther yet anoth r by

s s Avedit c h Avesdit c h s variou name , or , A hbank , and — Wa t t le ba n k extendi n g from wher e the Akeman Street crosses the Cherwell to the northern boundary of the

t is s county at Souldern . Although the poin till undecided

is se e s n it conjectured that the w re of Roman con tructio ,

e s e the north rn one made to defend the Akeman Str et, t h e s e on e Ic kn ield s outh rn to protect the Way, thi latter

s - s s t h e being an old Briti h track way, afterward u ed by

s. s e Roman Finally , mention of the Briti h villag which

s w a s exi sts at Standlake must not be omitted . Thi

s e 1 8 - s di cov red in 5 7 , when thirteen hut circle were ex

lored e s p , and many of the obj ct obtained placed in the 1 02 OXFORDS HIRE

s s a t s A hmolean Mu eum O xford . No remain of the

- hut circle s are now vi sible . The county w a s not so thoroughly coloni sed by t h e

s a s Roman s some other parts of England . Perhap the de s s s s s n e fore t s prevented them . Roman tation exi ted at

Al c h est er s w a s and Dorche ter, but the county dotted over

s s s . with Roman villa , ome of them the fine t in England

St on esfi eld , N orthleigh , Beckley, Wheatley, Fringford ,

Wood e rr ss ss m s Middleton Stoney, and p y po e ed good exa ple of the re sidences of noble Rom a n s of which littl e now

m s s re ain to be een .

t h e Saxon remain s are by no means rare . In barrow at

m s Lyneham there were the re ain of a Saxon burial , with

h ield s a n d ss Sa xon s . javelin , knife , the umbo or bo of a

— 1 6 . Arc h e c r a c l e s s l it t u e ( ) E c ia tica .

A prelimi n ary word on the variou s S tyles of Engli sh architecture is necessary before we con sider t h e churches

and other important buildings of our county .

- a s is s Pre Norman or , it u ually , though with no great

S w a s certainty termed , axon building in England , the work of early craftsmen with an imp e rfect knowledge of

S s s tone con truction , who commonly u ed rough rubble

s ss s s s wall , no buttre e , mall emicircular or triangular “ s s s is arche , and quare tower with what termed long ” -s e and hort work at the quoins or corners. It surviv s

s s m almo t olely in portion s of s all churche s. Th e Norman Conquest started a wide spread building

104 OXFORDS HIRE — abroad developed after 1 36 0 in a ll parts of En gland and

s s 1 A it s la ted with carcely any change up to 5 20 . s name

s is a s a implie , it char cteri ed by the perpendicul r arrange

n a s s a n d s me t of the tracery and p nel on wall in window , and it is al so di stingui shed by the fl attened arche s and the s s quare arrangement of the moulding over them , by the

- s s fa n - v elaborate vault tracerie (e pecially aulting), and by

u e fl s s s s the s of at roof and tower without pire . The m edieval styles in Engla nd ended with the di ssolution of the m on asterie s ( 1 5 30 for the

s Reformation checked the building of churche . There s s s ucceeded the building of manor hou e , in which the “ ” — style called Tudor a rose di stingui shed by fl at- headed

s s s. n window , level ceiling , and panelled room The or a ments of classic style were introduced under the in fl uence s “ of Renai ssance sculpture and di stingui sh t h e Jacobean m s so s . a s tyle , called after Ja e I A fine ex mple of thi

’ is s in s a s een the econd qu drangle of St John College .

s ss s . About thi time the profe ional architect aro e Hitherto , building had been entirely in the hand s of the builder and the craftsman . Although the churche s of Oxfordshire are not equal in size and beauty to those of North a mpton shire or the

a c a n m ss ss s s of Fenl nd , no county clai to po e a erie churches of greater genera l intere st a n d special a rc h it ec

tural excellence than that which is here described . With

s s very few exception s the churche s are of mixed tyle . The first Norman lord or Saxon thane began to build a sm all church on h is e state suita ble for the needs of h is tenants

s a n d a t su ss s and labourer ; cce ive period , owing to the

106 OXFORDS HIRE

m a wealth and piety of the lord of the nor, or the zeal

s a n of the people , the e h ve bee enlarged and renewed ; hence we often notice in the same structures examples of

s s s all the tyle which have been in vogue in thi country .

P re—Norm a n P e iod r .

s s a s en t h u In pite , however , of the e w ve of building sia sm which have p a ssed over the country it is possible to di scover some of the work of the early mason s who

s e were rearing churche b fore the advent of the Norman s. O n e of the earlie st churche s in Oxfordshire must have ’ s Fridesw ide s s been the min ter of St convent . Thi w a s ’ s on St s s 1 0 0 2 A . D . almo t entirely de troyed Brice Day, , when the Danes took refuge therein and were burnt with

s s w a s it . It eem to have been of timber, and rebuilt in ston e ; and in recent years va rious remains of thi s stru e ture have been discovered in the east wall of t h e north

s s choir ai le of Chri t Church Cathedral , formerly the ’ ridesw ide s s s t n church of St F mona tery , con truc ed duri g

s s the period of tran ition from Norman to Early Engli h . Thi s Saxon work consi sts of very rude and early masonry

s s e with wide jointing, while out ide have been di cover d the foundation s of two apses which formed the eastern

O - termination of the earlier church . ther pre Norman ’ s s work can be een in the tower of St Michael church ,

O s s s s - - s xford, which how the di tingui hing long and hort

s s s work at the angle , and the deeply played belfry opening

ss s s s with ma ive balu ter haft , all typical of the period . Similar sign s of Saxon masonry exi st in the towers of

1 08 OXFORDSHIRE

C a ve rsfi eld a n d s is Northleigh and , at Bice ter there a

a - sa tri ngular headed arch of the me early date . Herring

s a s a s bone work, u u lly con idered ign of Saxon building,

s s exi t in the beautiful church at Bampton . An early

s s is ff t h e window, played both way , at Swalcli e , and

s h s churche of Swyncombe , Langford , Broug ton Pogg , and

s S s Aston Rowant how ign of Saxon work .

N orm a n P eriod .

With the advent of William the Conqueror and h is

s - m follower an era of vigorous church building com enced . ’ R D O ill set O obert y the example in xford , erecting the

M s church of St ary Magdalen out ide the city wall , and

ss ss po ibly that of St Cro at Holywell , the chancel arch of

is h is m s which early in character . Nothing of work re ain

m s in the former church . The Nor an lord who received grants of estates in the county proceeded to build stone churches where formerly wooden structure s exi sted . Very num erous are the example s of thi s solemn and impre ssive s e s tyl , and indeed there are few churche which have no relics of thi s vigorous architectural period . Of the early Norman period there a re remain s at l M u rren s s Newnham , ome window in the chancel of

n M t h e s a t s Sa dford St ary, and doorway Ambro den ,

a a s G ff Cowley, Wilcote , St nton H rcourt , Crowmar h i ard

1 Th is c h rc h h a s b een m c h rest ore a n d in ic io s re st ora t ion u u d, jud u

f est ro s th e e a r fe a t r s ofb i i n s Th e N orm a n or w a s on e o t en d y ly u e u ld g . w k d by som e oft h e m on ks ofB e c Abb ey in N orm a n dy w h o w ere brough t over b M i o C ris in or ofWa i n for t o b i c h rc h es a t N orth St o e y l p , l d ll g d, u ld u k ,

d N n h a m b t i f i I s en a n e u t t e o t h e ir or re m a n s. p d , w l l w k ARCHITECTURE— ECCLES IASTICAL 1 09

s and Handborough . The tympanum , or emicircular s - tone work between the top of the door and the arch ,

a a s w a s often c rved with elabor te culptured devices. At Handborough there is a repre sentation of St Peter seated

h is m s d n u s D ei with a key , emble , on one ide and the g

s s with a croll on the other , the ubj ect depicting St Peter

K en o dictating the Gospel to St M a rk . At c t t Sagittarius is Shooting an arrow into the mouth of a dragon ; a t Salford Sagittarius a n d Leo are guarding a M a lte se cross ;

’ at Black Bourton and a t South L eigh a simple cross is

a s s a t c rved . The emicircular ap e Checkendon and the narrow tower arches at C a ssington are also of thi s early

m s s date . The Nor an builder tried to introduce ap idal

s sh chancel , but the Engli never liked them ; hence many of these ap sidal termination s of churche s were altered s s e S s ub equ ntly, and quare ended chancel built in their stead . O fthe later Norm a n period the well-known ch urch

ffl is s m at I ey one of the fine t in the kingdo . The two fine tower arche s and the three noble doorways are ’ s s s a 1 1 6 0 marvel of the culptor art of bout the year .

a s s G a G a Here , al o at reat B rford , Burford , re t Rollright , ’ ’ s s s- in - - a s O A thall , and St Ebbe and St Peter the E t, xford ,

s - s s s are row of beak head , which are uppo ed to mean the birds of the air in the Parable of the Sower re a dy to pluck away t h e good seed sown in the hearts of carele ss reci

t s S S ffl pie n . omewhat imilar to the I ey door are those of

s s th e Chapter Hou e , Chri t Church Cathedral , and Wood s s s tock . Immen e labour and kill were bestowed on these

w s h s door ay , which ave been often pre erved with care in I ffl e C u rc W e s t ron t y h h , F

1 1 2 OXFORDS HIRE

s s s s s Tran itional Norman work exi t at Cudde don , Bin ey ,

n s s Fri gford , En tone , and Broadwell , where there are emi circular headed doorways. A characteri stic feature of

s is i Early Engli h work the pointed arch . There s one

s at Holton , but the carving that adorn it are all Norman , s s s howing that it belong to thi period of tran sition . O th er

s c a n s K m s ff example be een at el cott , Bampton , Swalcli e ,

s Bucknell , the north porch at Witney, and the we t door

- - way at Shipton under Wychwood .

Some curious Norman fonts exi st . At Hook Norton

is s m the font carved with figure of Ada and Eve , Sagit t a riu s s m a s s a re , and variou ani l ; and other at Albury ,

m s. Berwick Salo e , Lewknor and other churche Several

m s a s a s se a Nor an lead font rem in , uch tho at Bro dwell ,

C oke t h or e s h a s p , Warborough , and Dorche ter, which figure s of our Lord and the Apostles under round- headed

s. s a s s a s arche Churche often contain other det il , uch

s ss s s pi cinae , wherein the ve el u ed in Holy Communion

s s s a were clean ed , toup for holy water ne r the entrance, s s s u m s s edilia ( eat for the clergy), a bry or cupboard wherein the treasure s of the church were kept . Many of them are of Norman date .

r n lisl) P eriod E a ly E g .

At length the Engli sh builders found their way to

s G the new tyle of othic architecture , boldly attempted

a s in s the pointed rch , and ought nature model for their

a s s s s sculpture . We h ve numerou example of thi tyle in

s t h e t our county . The beautiful pire of Cathedral , tha

1 1 4 OXFORDS HIRE at Witney together with most of the church ( 1 20 0 the Chapter House at Oxford (all the eastern portion)

it s s with delicate lancet window , the chancel and tran s s S s s ept of tanton Harcourt with row of lancet , are all “ s w a s in thi s tyle . Th e thirteenth century the golden

s s w a s age of churchmen , and foremo t among t them

s G ss s s s Bi hop Robert ro ete te of Lincoln , in who e dioce e

w a s h is O xford then w a s. He a great builder and work remain s in the church and the chapel of the Prebendal

s is s Hou e at Thame , where there a fine ea t window of

s s s s three light , delicate detached and clu tered haft , and

a s u it s rich c pital . The church b ilt by him , with fine

s s w a s Early Engli h arcade , much added to in the four t een t h century ; the accounts of thi s work are still in ’ An s is s ss ss . exi tence , and a copy in the writer po e ion

of w a s other great church builder the time Richard , Earl of Cornwall , brother to Henry III , and king of the

m m H is w a s s Ro an E pire . wealth enormou and he loved

s to pend it in building churches. Many of the Oxford s s h is H is s hire churche owe their beauty to bounty . badge ,

a n d S a re the lion rampant crowned the pread eagle , found

s s ss s a s s . in many churche in tained gla and on tile , at Ip den Among other example s of the work of the period may b e

its s s mentioned Tackley church with ea tern lancet , Wig

h a s ginton , K idlington , and Bucknell . North Stoke an

s S s is Early Engli h pire , though the upper tory modern ,

s s and an ornate chancel of thi period . Thi church must have been in decay in the fourteenth century when it w a s

B rom h a le s a s s given to the convent of , Berk hire, the Bi hop

ss s of Lincoln ordered the Priore to re tore it . Hence there

1 1 6 OXFORDS HIRE s till more t h e extra ordinary Jesse window on the north . The Patriarch lies below a n d from h is side springs h is

s s genealogical tree , carried up in the tone mullion and in

a ss s S t ined gla . Thi church would require a volume for it s s G full de cription . oing back to Oxford we there find

s the builder very busy . They were building Merton

s s College Chapel , in erting window in the Cathedral , and

s s re toring many of the churche of the town . St Mary ’ M a n s a w a s agd le church , origin lly Norman , rebuilt at

s O it s s s thi period . wing to position between two treet it could not be extended eastward or westward ; henc e all it s expan sion h a s been in the form of ai sles on the

s m s s s north and outh . The a on of thi period were very fond of light and in serted many beautiful windows with

s s a s G s elaborate tracery in many churche , uch reat Ha eley, G reat Milton , Bampton , Kidlington , and in the chancel

O n e of Piddington . peculiar feature of the Oxfordshire churche s in the northern part of the county and adjacent di stricts is the fringe or foli a ted canopy to the containing

s w s s a s m arche of the indow , uch at Broughton , Ba pton , and Broadwell .

O f s m s later Decorated work, called ometi e curvilinear

S is a tyle , there the beautiful Latin Chapel in the C thedral ,

is e m a n d s s which an architectural g , al o the fine churche

s of Cropredy, Broughton , and Chinnor . The chancel of

M G s erton , Chalgrove , ar ington , and Stanton St John , are

s s s almo t entirely of thi period , and the north tran ept at Witney and north ai sle at Ducklington with it s beautiful

s. s canopied tomb The nave , tower , and pire of Adder ’ s s O it s bury church , the pire of St Mary , xford , with S t M a ’ ry s C u rc h h , Oxford 1 18 OXFORDSHIRE

s - fl s profu ion of ball ower ornament , and the north ai le

ff s e s of Swalcli e , aid to hav been de igned by William of

m s Wykeha , the great architect and bi hop , the inventor

h e of the Perpendicular architecture , before had conceived

s s . n t h e that peculiar tyle , are all of thi period Ma y of

s s churche at that time were adorned with mural painting , and attained to the height of their magnificence . They were a blaze of colour . But it would take too long a space

h a s s to record all that time pared .

r n ic u la r St le P e pe d y .

O s a s s is s xford hire , we have een , clo ely connected

s s is with the originator of thi tyle, which peculiar to

s England , the great architect , Bi hop William of Wyke

As s e . ham, who remodelled Winche t r Cathedral the

' founder ofWinchester School and it s associated college

O f h is at x ord , New College , he introduced architectural ideas when building the chapel towards the end of the fourteenth century .

s s He had other connection with the hire , having

s s h is s purcha ed Broughton Ca tle for nephew, Sir Thoma

n s h is S Wykeham , upo which he exerci ed kill in building, s n and de ig ed the chancel of Adderbury church . The

s chapel of Magdalen College , the churche of Handborough , m Chipping Norton , and Ewel e , and the font at Burford

s s are al o example of the Perpendicular style . The church

s a s of Min ter Lovell , cruciform and with central tower , w

u t h e it s b ilt by Lord Lovell in time of Henry VI , with ’ s a n d u a t re m a in fine founder tomb and font, Richard Q

1 20 OXFORDS HIRE and Sibylla h is wife in 1 449 built the curious Ryc ot e

m s s chapel , which re ain entirely unre tored .

B u rford C h u rch

At thi s time the clothiers and wool- merchants were very prosperou s in the Cotswold di strict and S pent their ARCHITECTURE— ECCLES IASTICAL 1 21

- wealth freely in the buil ding or re building of church es.

s w a s s Thu , the noble c hurch of Burford almo t entirely re-edifi e d s n . E pecially oticeable are the upper part of

s s fa n — e the tower, the pire , the outh porch with traceri d

s sa s roof, and the font with carving of int and the Cruci

i n fi x o .

The monastic buildings have fared badly . They have

G od s t ow N u n n ery

left few remain s. In the county there were five Bene dic t in e s s is i s s s hou e , three C terc an , even hou e of the

s G s Au tin Rule , one ilbertine priory, two alien priorie ,

C o s s s m a s a t gg and Min ter Lovell , a hou e of the Te pl r

s a s la n fi eld s s Sandford and of the Ho pit ller at C . B e ide these there were five monastic colleges and several

os h pital s. Though not very rich and powerful abbeys 1 22 OXFORDSHIRE

s f s G s and priorie , they were airly numerou . od tow and

- - a re Shipton under Wychwood ruin s. Some were con

s s s verted into private hou e , or made into farm , or entirely

m n e w S pulled down in order to ake way for tructures.

s Elven den Studley and Bice ter, Wroxton and betray a few traces of their origin . The fine medieval hospital at Ewelme remain s.

R en i a n c e a ss .

During the sixteenth century English architecture

f a ss a s began to be in luenced by the Ren i ance, the revival

s of art in Italy w a called . We find classical details gradua lly creeping into u se in the Gothic design s during

s the Tudor , Elizabethan and Jacobean period , but the great change w a s due to the geniu s of Inigo ‘Jones who

s m s s ss e fir t a tered the pirit of the Renai anc architecture ,

n and adapted it to Engli sh needs. Thi s apparently e tirely

w a s a s is so se new idea of architecture , often the ca

s s e with new idea , only a return to a much older ourc of

s m s e in piration . For our N or an tyl had been developed

m s s s through the French Ro ane que and Byzantine tyle , m G from the older Ro an and reek architecture . The tower of the Five Order s in the old University

s O s s s ss School , xford , illu trate the main feature of Renai ance

s s architecture . The five order are Tu can , Doric , Ionic ,

s e . Corinthian , and Compo it

is s O w a s It curiou , however, that at xford there an

s s after glow of Gothic architecture . In pite of the change wrought elsewhere the mason s at Oxford clung to th eir

C r h i s t C h u rc h : S t a irc a s e l e a di n g t o t h e H a l l ARCHITECTURE— ECCLES IASTICAL 1 25

s a s a s traditional method , and wrought their f ther had done

m s is s before the . Thi noticeable in the building of

m fa n - Wadha , in the traceried roof of the entrance to the

a t a n d s hall Chri st Church el ewhere . The blending of Classic and Gothic form s is well seen in the chapel of Brasenose College a ttributed (but

h is a s wrongly) to Wren , who with pupil H wk moor de ’ signed Queen s College buildings and the chapel ofTrin it y

1 6 0 2—1 6 6 is College . The Bodleian Library, built in 3 , a fine example of Renai ssa nce Style described by Casaubon “ a s a work rather for a king than a private man . Many

s ss s s churche contain Renai ance detail , porche and monu

s Ta n fi eld ment . The noble monument to Sir Lawrence

1 6 6 is m in Burford church ( 2 ) a notable exa ple .

1 rc h r — o M l . A e t e r C s l e s . 7 it c u ( ) i ita y . a t We have already recorded many of the great earth works and line s of defence in O xfordshire which were “ s m s c a s thrown up in prehi toric ti e , and denominated ” s s s tle , but in thi ection we are concerned only with

s s s military tronghold built of tone . Some few remain , but most of those erected in troublous ti m e s have dis appeared . The Norman s when they came built many castle s to

e s overaw the conquered Engli h folk . Their earliest castles were often simply fortified mounds with timber

s s s fort , but oon the e wooden walls were replaced by ’ ston e . Robert D O illy w a s ordered to build such a castle Oxford C a s t l e

1 28 OXFORDS HIRE w a s 1 1 s l s held in 33 which ett ed the term of peace , and

s s ss s numerou Parliament a embled here . In the war of ’ the B a ron s in Joh n s reign the castle w a s a valu a ble s a -s tronghold of the king and domin ted the country ide . It w a s the headq uarters of those baron s who supported

s the young King Henry III , while Lewi the Dauphin

h is s s and follower took up their po ition at Cambridge . Little is known of the plan and building of Oxford i i s . s s s Ca tle All that left the keep , the pier of a Norman l crypt , and a vaulted chamber containing a wel .

In O s a s s xford hire , in other part of England during ’ s m s s se s s e the troublou ti e of Stephen reign , veral ca tle wer erected by noble s and landowners which became den s of

s . s s robber for the pillaging of the country Such ca tle ,

a du lt erin e s called , were rai ed at Ardley (by the Earl of

s M ix Che ter), Swerford , Somerton , Chipping Norton ,

a n bury , Deddington , and B mpto . When Henry II came to the throne he ordered these

s s s . ca tle to be de troyed and razed to the ground Ardley,

a n d m t h e s Swerford , So erton were pulled down , but re t

w a s were sp a red . Swerford probably built by Robert ’ ’ “ ll e s D i . s O y junior , neph w of the Conqueror ally Ca tle ” s m a s it s s it s s Th Hill till rk ite with great mound . e

a s s a n d moat and e rthwork of Ardley Ca tle remain , Somerton Castle w a s built by one of the Arsic family of C oggs. Bi shop Alexander of Lincoln built a fine castle at

h a 1 1 s a s . w a Banbury in 35 , which a not ble hi tory It s the O xford shire residence of the Bi shop s of that see until the time of Edward VI . It played a great part — ARCHITECTURE MILITARY 129

s w a s in the Civil War of the eventeenth century , and of

w a s s considerable strength . It held at fir t by the govern or

s Nathaniel Fienne for the Parliament , but after the battl e of Edgehill he yielde d it to the Royali sts without a strug

w a s gle, and all through the war it gallantly defended by ’ the King s soldiers and proved a thorn in the side of the

” a s Th e s t h e Parliament rian . inhabitant of town and dis

t ric t s favoured the latter, and were con tantly pillaged to

s s s O upply food for the garri on of xford and Banbury . It w a s vigorously besieged in 1 644 by Colonel John Fiennes

a s m and gallantly defended by Sir Willia Compton , who “ s s s s s returned thi an wer to a ummon to urrender , We

e s s h is M s a s a s m a n k ep thi ca tle for aj e ty , and long one is left alive in it we will you not to expect to have it ” d elivered .

Th e w a s s s s old church the headquarter of the be ieger ,

who planted their cannon in the churchyard . The weary

s siege lasted thirteen weeks. Then a vigorou attack w a s

s s i s a s s made , many oldier be ng l in , but the be ieger were

w a s s driven back . The garri son in ore straits a s they

s had only two horses left for food . Two year later the

w a s e s attack r newed when the royal cau e had failed , and

s w a s s a n d s e the ca tle being delivered up , lighted de troy d

R e s by the oundh ad . A castle w a s built by Gerard de C a m v ill e at Mid

dl et on S s s h e toney in the time of Stephen , who e cau e supported again st the Empre ss M a u df His son Richard th ere must ere d h is adherent s to accompany him to t h e

on t h e u s Holy Land great cr ade under Richard , the Lion

e h e n e see h is . H is H art, but ever r turned to home again

D . o. 1 30 OXFORDSHIRE

’ son Gerard succeeded and held the castle for Richard s ’

. O n s w a s enemy , John King Richard return he only

h is s 2 0 0 0 m s allowed to retain ca tle after paying ark .

s it s s Leland in the time of Henry VIII de cribed ruin ,

s s s a and ays the ca tle tood ne r the church . Some pieces

s e t s of the wall of it y a little appear, but almo t the whole ” i s s s s of it s overgrown with bu he . Some mound till mark it s s ite .

s s Another early ca tle exi ted at Chipping Norton , built ’ - s s by the Fitz Alans. Erected in Stephen reign it e caped

s in m s de truction the ti e of Henry II , when ome other “ ” castles were pulled down . The Castle Banks near ’ d Ivr the church are all that remain of it . Roger y built a castle at M ixb u ry of con siderable strength and so beau

h h is s tiful t at Norman neighbour called it Beaumont , or de B el/o on t e s s s M . is No tone of it are tanding, but it po ssible to follow the outlines of the strong building th a t

e s m s onc tood there , and ark the po ition of the keep and

- s m s S the inner and outer bailey court , while the oat how

s where the wall s of the fortre s stood . It is not known when the strong castle of Deddin g

w a s s w a s s ton rai ed , but it in exi tence in the time of

w a s Edward II, and then held by Aymer de Valence ,

s Earl of Pembroke , who al o had licence from the king

h is s n 1 1 is to crenellate hou e at Bampto in 3 5 , that , to

s s s erect a ca tle . Deddington had a notoriou pri oner,

s Ga vest on ss Pier , the worthle favourite of Edward II , who offended all the chief noble s of the realm by h is

s s h is s ff s e s preten ion , manner , and by the o en iv name he

a g ve to them . The owner of Deddington and Bampton

1 32 OXFORDS HIRE

by the crumbling side s of the moat is a holy well who se w healing waters cured all kinds of di sease s. It a s asso

c ia t e d ss M w a s with the Ble ed Vi rgin ary , and much

t h e frequented until the beginning of last century .

s Ga vest on Aymer de Valence , the bitter enemy of Pier ,

s s e s built thi ca tl and al o owned D eddington , fought at ’ w a s kill ed a t Bannockburn , and a knightly tournament .

H is s is s s i plendid tomb in We tmin ter Abbey . It s recorded that on one occasion he took part in a joust at

Witney with Humphrey Bohun , Earl of Hereford . The castle passed by the marriage of h is daughter to the Earl s of Shrewsbury and rem ained in their hands until t h e

begi nn ing of the eighteenth century . Another Edwardian castle w a s built near H enley on - s a s G s 1 0 Thame , known rey Court, erected in 35 by

G s m a ss ss s John de rey , who e fa ily gained l rge po e ion in

s the county, their memory being pre erved by the name of the village Rot h erfi e ld Greys. Four of the tower s

s a are S till S tanding and there are the remain of a mo t . Within the wall s of thi s castle a noble Elizabethan

s w a s s hou e erected , now the re idence of the Stapleton family . S s s w a s hirburn Ca tle , al o of the Edwardian type, built originally by Warine de Li sle by royal licence in ’ s s D O ill 1 37 7 . A previou ca tle erected by Robert y w a s s n exi sted here , and in the hand of Ki g Stephen during the civil war ; but the Empre ss captured one of ’ s s s the King upporter , William Martel , and agreed to release him on condition that the castle w a s delivered

a s up t o her . It played prominent part in the trouble ARCHITECTURE— MILITARY 1 33

s of t h e reign of Edward II . Hither came Thoma , Earl

s s s of Lanca ter, and the other Baron to con pire to over ’ D es eii sers s s throw the power of the p , the King favourite , s who proved too strong for the noble , and the owner of h is s w a s . w a s the castle , Warine de Li le , beheaded It

Brou gh t on C a stl e

s s grandson who began to build the pre ent ca tle , which

e s s w a s not finished a century later . A wid moat urround s s s s s . it , panned by a drawbridge , and a portculli till exi t It is similar in plan to the Edwardian castles already a h a s s s . h s de scribed , but been omewhat moderni ed It 134 OXFORDS HIRE

‘ s u s s w a s b e been held by many di ting i hed familie , and s s ieged during the Civil War in the eventeenth century, and gallantly held by the wife of the owner for a long period until the royal cause seemed hopeless and the ’ a irfa x s m w a s s full force of F ar y brought again t her . It is s M a l e fi now the re idence of the Earl of c c s eld.

a n u e t n a ou t on C a st e B q i g H ll , Br gh l

Broughton Castle at the present da y belongs to the type of fortified man sions built at a time when the need of exten sive castellated works and massive protecting

s ss wall had pa ed away , and the country had become

s . s s S ettled Recent di coverie have hown , however, that

O XFORDS HIRE

it s s but walls were not injured . Many relic of the Civil

‘ ld S War period are preserved in the castle . O ubtlety

s s became a taunch Royali t . In addition to these castles t h e fortified manor houses in s s the county may be mentioned , which proved them elve r formidable garri son s in the Civil Wa period . Such were

h e s e n t royal manor of Wood tock , which mad a galla t defence ; Fawley and Phylli s Court near Henley ; the ’ Blounts house at Mapledurham ; and many others which on account of their formidable defences might clai m to

e a s be rank d castles.

— 1 8 . Ar h r c m F m o s c itectu e ( )Do e sti c . a u M an s on s M n r Ho s a n d i , a o u es C ot es tag .

O xfordshire can boast of many noble and stately

s s s s hou e , and even the humble cottage of the country ide

s s G are worthy pecimen of domestic architecture . reat

s a s s - s Tew, which lie mid t teep , well timbered hill in mid

O s h a s t h e of s xford hire, credit being the prettie t village in s the hire . All the cottages are built of a local stone which h a s a re turned to a grey colour or rich ochre , and they eith e r steeply thatched or roofed with thin slabs of t h e s m s e s Th e - s a e yellowi h gr y tone . diamond paned window

s e s s s e often have ton mullion with drip tone ov r them .

on e s No cottage repeat another . Nowhere do we

s is s find late or red brick . It all very harmoniou and beautiful .

1 38 OXFORDS HIRE

The story of the growth of Engli sh domestic archi tecture is well illustrated by the manor houses and

s s a re man ion of Oxfordshire . First there the thirteenth century manor hou ses of Cotti sford and C oggs. The former h a s been much altered and is now much smaller than

w a s s s s it originally, but it retain ome fine Early Engli h

s o is V a window . The village of C ggs ery rem rkable for it s V s church , icarage , barn , and manor hou e , which form

s a triking group of old buildings. The manor belonged d O o s s . to , Bi hop of Bayeux, after the Conque t There w a s a priory here founded by William de Arsic and

éc a m s attached to F p Abbey, Normandy, and ome part of ’ s i h e V the monks building s incorporated in t icarage .

Th e s s fl Th e church hows igns of French in uence .

s s it s E s s w a s manor hou e retain arly Engli h window , but

s mo tly rebuilt by Earl Downe in the sixteenth century . ’ Bi shop King s Palace w a s built in 1 5 46 for the first

s s Bi hop of Oxford and last Abbot of O ney . The front w a s 1 6 8 h a s s s. rebuilt in 2 . It ome richly decorated ceiling “ Of the fortified structures reared when every ’ ” s s w a s h is s s s e man hou e ca tle , ome example have b en

u given . When the wars were ended and the co ntry

s more ecure , men began to build more comfortable

- s h a s dwelling place . Tudor architecture the great charm

ss s h a s s of homeline and evere beauty, and produced ome of the best types of houses in England . The pla n of a Tudor house is very much like that of an Oxford or

is - Cambridge college . There an entrance gate with ’ s - s porter lodge or guard room for retainers. Thi opened

s s see into a quare court , on the far ide of which we the

1 40 OXFORDS HIRE

i s ss O n ma n entrance , which admit to a pa age . the right

is s ss s the hall , eparated from the pa age by a creen ; on the left are the buttery and kitchen s ; over the screen is ’

s s . h a s a s a s the min trel gallery The hall a d i , or r i ed

m s t h e platform at the end remote fro the creen , where

h is m s s s lord and fa ily dined , the ervant taking their meal

in the lower p a rt of the hall on tables set on trestles. O n the d a i s S ide there were doors and staircases leading to the withdrawing room and private apartments of the

s s n s w a s s M s family . Ba ed on uch pla the old hou e of in ter

s a s Lovell , now in ruin , remarkable being a purely

s s . dome tic building with no military feature , ave a moat

w a s s h The hall a tately building of great eight , lighted

s s u s by four fifteenth century windows. Hi tory book tell the rhyme

C a t R a t a n d o do The , the , L vell the g

a ll n a H o Rule E gl nd under the g ,

ffi referring to John , Lord Lovell , who took o ce under

w a s s s Richard III and hated by the Lanca trian , together ff s . with Cate by (the Cat), and Ratcli e (the Rat) The son s w a s in s of thi Lovell hiding in a vault at the hou e , h is wants being a ttended to by a faithful old servant ;

sh e s s w a s s but died uddenly , and her ma ter tarved to

death . Stanton Harcourt is a good example of an Early Tudor

s a s a s c a n m t h e s hou e far be judged fro canty remain s. Henry VIII introduced foreign craftsmen into England who altered our style a n d greatly increased the ornamental

s. detail Elizabethan houses have a profusion of ornament . — ARCHITECTURE DOMESTIC 1 41

The long gallery becam e a feature of the house ; it wa s

on t h e s fl s s s fir t oor, and elegant tairca e were introduced to

s s n lead to it . In later day came in the fa hio to build in the

s s s Italian tyle , and many beautiful old hou e were pulled

down in order to make room for these foreign innovations.

Wroxt on Abb ey

Broughton Castle h a s much Elizabethan work . Wroxton

is e Abbey mainly Jacobean . Ther are a few thirteenth century arche s rema ining of the old monastic building .

s s is a The pre ent hou e very noble dwelling, full of

s s s s u hi torical portrait and tape trie , and beautif l in every

s S w a s s re pect . tudley Priory al o built in the time of 1 42 OXFORDS HIRE

s e s s e s Jame I , and h re too we can di cover om trace of

s s a is the monastic building . A th ll Manor Elizabethan

1 6 1 0 Chastleton w a s built between the years 1 6 0 3 and . Robert Catesby of Gunpowder Plot fam e once owned

s s s m S the manor and old it to Walter Jone , who e fa ily till

hold s it . Some houses a re built on a plan shaped after the letter E ; some think that thi s w a s in compliment to

is s . w a s Queen Elizabeth , but that a mi take It a

s s development of preceding plan . Thu we have the

a n a s s origin l pla of a h ll . Then the hou e took to it elf wings in order to provide additional rooms for the family

and servants and the porch becam e a more elaborate

- s s E s s . tructure . Thu we get an haped hou e There are s m H - s a s s a n d s a s o e h ped hou e , the e are t ken to tand for

s is . Henry VIII . But thi only a further development of plan

ss is a a a n d s The cro piece the origin l h ll , the wing on each S ide a re extended both ways in order to provide increased

s is accommodation for the family and guest . Fritwell E - shaped ; it is a very beautiful Jacobea n house erected

6 1 a 1 . s is in 9 Shutford m nor hou e earlier , a lofty , gloomy M house built by the Wykehams of Broughton . aple

s s w a s durham , the hou e of the Blount , mainly built in the time of E liz a b et h fw h en the beautiful front w a s added

- to an old irregul a r . halftimbered house of the fifteenth

1 44 OXFORDS HIRE

h a a . s s century It be utiful oriel window , a central portion

s s with two deep wing , and high towering chimney of red i s s . brick, of which the hou e built There are other good example s of domestic architecture

s G s in Hardwicke , Barton , Cornbury , Rou ham , aunt Hou e , S ffi S . s a re s Cote , hipton Court, and tonor But the e u cient

s o s s s to h w the trea ure which the county contain .

l s s e of B enheim Palace, pre ented to the fir t Duk

M is arlborough by the nation , a building of great magnificence and cost It w a s built by the 1 0 playwright and architect Sir John Vanbrugh in 7 4 . O s s ther later man ion are Nuneham , Heythrop , Tew

s e Park, Middleton Stoney Tu mor and

Watlington . An illustration is given overleaf of a house called t h e

’

O s s s O . ctagon Hou e , aid to be the olde t in xford The

o s do rway appear to be of th e fifteenth century .

s h a s e e Some mention of cottage already b en mad . These are especially beautiful at Burford and in t h e

s see s Cot wold country . We there the greatest pain

s s s s be towed upon the detail of the e building , on the i a s s s fs. s doorw y , window , chimney , and roo There ff nothing hurried or S lovenly about them . They di er

s greatly from modern cottage , which are built cheaply

n s s s s ss with glari g brick , ugly late , and the cheape t po ible door and window frames imported from abroad . Nothing

s s s can be more hideou than row of modern cottage , or more beautiful than the old Oxford shire cottages of t h e

Cotswold country . ARCHITECTURE— COLLEGES 1 45

— 1 . Arc h t e c r d l l e s 9 i t u e ( ) C o eg .

Th e hi story of t h e founding of the University of

O s s xford abound in interest and need careful study .

s a s it s s Popular tradition point to King Alfred fir t founder,

' and in h is ti me there may have been schools at Oxford in

s s s Saxon day . Oxford owe much to the Univer ity of

s w a s u s Pari , where there an outb r t of great intellectual activity at the end of the eleventh century, and Abelard

u s s s grew p to be the greatest of its teachers. Pari cholar formed them selves into a defi n it e society about the year

1 1 0 . s s s n s 5 Engli h cholar often we t there to eek learning , and sometime s Frenchmen cam e t o O xford for a like

s a s 1 1 1 purpo e , in 7 we hear of a Doctor of Caen , in

s e O . As Normandy, becoming a ma t r of xford all scholars u sed the Latin tongue there w a s much more intercourse between those of various countr i es than in

s s s later time . Toward the clo e of the twelfth century a great migration took place of students from Pari s to

O s 0 0 0 s s s . xford , and oon we find 3 tudent at the Univer ity

s s s s s They were lodged in hall , ho tel , and boarding hou e ,

s s . i si but the college did not yet exi t Un ver ty College ,

G s w a s 1 2 originally reat Univer ity Hall , founded in 49

w a s by William de Durham . It not really a college

t a n d t h e s is un il later, no part of pre ent building earlier

1 6 s w a s than 34. The real founder of college Walter de M erton who in 1 263 m ade over h is e states to a community

s of scholars who were to study at a University . Thi w a s M h is the origin of erton Hall or College , and after

1 0 D . o. 146 OXFORDS HIRE

s s a s time college pr ng up and became the home of learning,

s w n ow . religion , and fellow hip hich they are

s a s s is s The u ual plan of a college , already tated , ome

s what similar to that of a large Tudor hou e . It required a great hall with kitchen , buttery , etc . , a chapel , and

s s s a n d s s. u s room for tutor , fellow , tudent The b ilding

s were grouped round one or more large quadrangle , and some of them retain the beauty of their Gothic archi

M u s. tecture . any have been reb ilt in later time It is curious to note that at Oxford Gothic tradition s of building lingered on long after they had died out

s s s e s elsewhere . The builder and ma on wer accu tomed to build in Gothic style and continued to work in that s s tyle regardless of the changing fashions el ewhere . Thus

s in the eventeenth century they built Wadham College ,

G ss n s a fine late othic college , when the Renai a ce tyle w a s being followed everywhere else . A walk through the S treets of Oxford is one of the s mo t delightful that can be enjoyed . Starting from Carfax,

n a a trev ois s ss a corruptio of Q or four way , we pa along ’ Alda t e s S St treet , named after the church dedicated to

S is the Saxon aint , and on the right Pembroke College ,

B roa d a t es s w a s formerly g Hall . The pre ent college 1 6 2 m founded in 4 and named after Willia Herbert , Earl

s 1 6 1 6 . of Pembroke , Chancellor of the Univer ity in

Only the refectory of t h e older buildings r e main s. The

w a s s front quadrangle built in the eventeenth century, the

1 2 1 8 s chapel in 73 and the new hall in 84 . Dr John on ’ b ec a m e a S n t Alda t e s tudent here in 1 7 28 . O the left of S is s s O Chri t Church , the mo t magnificent college in xford ,

1 48 OXFORDS HIRE

founded by Cardinal Wolsey in 1 5 2 5 and at first called ’ s e h is Cardinal Colleg . After fall King Henry VIII

s s completed the foundation , though on a maller cale than

the Cardinal intended . We enter the great quadrangle “ ( Tom which take s its name from the famous

G s . B ell , reat Tom , that hang in the gateway The college buildi n gs share t h e remains of the monastery of

Fridesw ide s St , including the min ter (now the cathedral , which w a s shorn of part of it s length by the college

s s . building ), the chapter hou e and the refectory The tower that carrie s the great Bell w a s built by Sir

s 1 - Chri topher Wren in 6 8 2 . The beautiful fan tracery in the roof of the staircase leading to the hall looks like

w a s Perpendicular work , but made by one Smith of

is s u London in 1 640 . The hall a noble tr cture and it s wall s are hung with the portraits of the famou s son s

s 1 86 2 of Chri st Church . The new building erected in “ in the style of Venetian Gothic are an ill u stration of

n ot is n how to build . There another quadra gle called

Pec kw a t er a n s , named after old ho tel kept by Ralf

s Pec kw a t er in the thirteenth century . The pre ent

s a re so a building Palladian , named after Pall dio , the Italian architect who fl ouri shed in the m iddle of the sixteenth

set s s s century and thi fa hion of building in thi country .

s s so A mall quadrangle adjoin called Canterbury, named

m s after a college of that na e founded by Simon I lip ,

Archbi shop of Canterbury in 1 363. Together with Pec kw a t e r Inn it w a s united with Chri st Church by

s n s Henry VIII . The pre e t building were erected at the close of the eighteen th century . ARCHITECTURE— COLLEGES 1 49

Leaving Christ Church by thi s Canterbury Gate we see Oriel College , founded by Adam de Brome , almoner ’

a l s . of Edward II, and origin l y called St Mary College

The king, however , acquired the patronage and credit of

It s is s fo u nding the college . name omewhat puzzling and is probably derived from an old mansion called The ” s It s O riole which formerly occupied the ite . old

Ori e l C oll e g e

u s e s s b ilding hav entirely di appeared , the pre ent front

1 6 is in quadrangle having been erected in 20 . It an “ ” t e rest in e O G g exampl of xford othic , like Wadham , retaining many characteri stics of earlier traditional work .

a re s s Noticeable the mullioned window , hooded by label ,

s s a s t h e it s the hand ome h ped gable , hall on the left with ” fi n e it s louvre , the porch with frieze Regnante Carolo , 1 5 0 OXFORDSHIRE

s s the tatue of the Virgin , and tho e of Edward II and ’ s s is Charle I . The old St Mary Hall now incorporated “ ” with the college . The inner quad (O xford m en

s a s s a s s s s alway c ll the e court qu d , not quadrangle ) how in

a 1 8 8 s the libr ry , erected in 7 , the deba ed architecture

so s of Wyatt, the architect who did much mi chief in re storing cathedral s and de stroying the beautiful work of

M e rt on C oll e g e L i bra ry

s its w a s ir earlier ages. Among t great men S Walter

s s Ralegh , and Pu ey, Keble , Dean Church , Tom Hughe , and Cecil Rhode s were al so members of the college .

1 1 1 w a s S In 9 the college extended into the High treet,

s s the co t being defrayed out of the Rhode bequest .

a a is s s l Ne r at h nd Corpu Chri ti Co lege , founded in

1 1 6 r s s e 5 by Richa d Foxe , Bi hop of Winche ter , pr late ,

M a gd a l e n C oll e g e Tow e r — ARCHITECTURE COLLEGES 1 5 3

s A legend connect the college with King Alfred , but it thi s is entirely mythical . Amongst s alumni are Robert

s f Dudley, Earl of Leice ter , Richard Fleming, ounder of

s s s Lincoln College, everal bi hop , Shelley, and many other ’ s i s ss s s s di t ngui hed men . Acro the way tand Queen

a its - s College , rem rkable for Italian looking front , de igned

’ Q u e e n s C o ll e g e

w a s . s by Hawk moor , a pupil of Wren It founded by

E l esfi e ld Robert de g , chaplain to Queen Philippa, after i s 1 0 . s s whom it named , in 34 Several old cu tom are ’ s a t s s a s t h e pre erved Queen , uch the bringing in of ’ s s s Da t h e Boar Head on Chri tma y, and giving of a needle ’ “ s s d i n ille and thread on N ew Year Day, with the word g 1 5 4 OXFORDS HIRE et l— fi Take thi s and be thrifty . The French word s

s s s u mean needle and thread , and are uppo ed to o nd like ” E l esfi eld s e e g , and thu perpetuat the m mory of the good ’ s founder name . ’ is s s Not far away All Soul College , the plendid

s 1 e foundation of Archbi hop Chichele in 437 , a colleg of

s s. s Fellow , not of undergraduate Near it ri e the lofty ’ S M s R ffe pire of St ary Church , the dome of the adcli

s s Library, the Univer ity building and Bodleian Library ,

s s 1 0 it s and Bra eno e College , founded in 5 9, with brazen i nose above the gate . The name s usually derived

s - s - s from B ra en hui , a brew hou e, which formerly occupied it s s Tu rl is ite . N ear by in Street Exeter College ,

e 1 1 a St a l e don found d in 3 4 by W lter de p . Little old ’ s n s s work remain , o ly the gatehou e and the Rector i s. a s s 1 2 lodging Here l o Lincoln College , founded in 4 7 “ s t h e by Richard Fleming, Bi hop of London , to defend

s s s a s s my terie of the acred p ge , and to oppo e the doctrine

ff s s s a of Wycli e and Je u College , a Wel h found tion , the

- first Post Reformation College in Oxford . Hugh Pric e w a s the founder in 1 5 7 1 with t h e patronage of Queen

a s Z s t h e Eliz beth , who e fine portrait by ucchero hang in

i u l s s T r . hall . The olde t part the front facing Street “ ” is 1 6 The chapel O xford Gothic of the date 63 .

ss s s Acro Broad Street tand Trinity College, founded on the S ite of the old Durham College of the thirteenth ’ m s V III s s century, by Sir Tho a Pope, one of Henry mo t ffi s s. s e tru ted o cial Wren de igned the garden quadrangl ,

n s a fine piece of work . O the we t of the front quad

s s s can be detected ome original building . Next to it tand

Th e R a d c liffe L ibr a ry — ARCHITECTURE COLLEGES 1 5 7

it s s s it s Balliol College, noted for cholar hip and antiquity . Sir John de Balliol w a s a powerful baron in the time ’ S s of Henry III who joined imon de Montfort rebellion . He w a s capt u red and ordered to be scourged at Durham

Cathedral . He escaped the penalty by promi sing to found a college for poor Durham scholars. Dying before a c

s h is n h is De vor illa compli hing intentio , he begged widow g

N e w C o ll e ge

h is s s to b u ild the college . She carried out wi he and created a foundation which subsequently developed into

s Balliol College . Very little of the old building remain , only the reading room and library, which are early

M s fifteenth century work . odern building have not

b u t s improved the college , it remain a home of light

m s s it s and learning , and nu ber among t alumni a crowd 1 5 8 OXFORDS HIRE

s n of great name , including Evely , Lockhart , Southey ,

Matthew Arnold , Swinburne , Manning, and T . H .

Green .

is s h a s New College a bright contra t to Balliol . It preserved it s old buildings intact erected by William of

M a n sfi e ld C oll e g e

1 A f s 0 0 . D . Wykeham ju t before 4 , though the roo of the hall h a s been raised and a third storey added to the front m quad . Willia of Wykeham intended that it should be

h is s allied with other foundation , Winche ter School , in ’ s s s order to complete the education of the tudent . St John

16 0 OXFORDS HIRE

s w a ma ons. Worcester College s formerly Gloucester

m M a Hall , and Hertford College in living emory agd len

is m Hall . Keble College odern , reared in memory of

Clorz ti n Tea r s s a . John Keble , the author of the Man field is also modern and w a s built for the benefit of Noncon form i S st s. Nor are women tudents forgotten in modern

w a s 1 8 Oxford . Somerville Hall opened in 79 and ’ s s M s afterward enlarged , and there are al o Lady argaret , ’ ’

St s s s. Hugh , and St Hilda Hall We have tra ced the hi story of these Oxford colleges

s a lm a m a ter which form part of the great Univer ity, the

s h a s of learning and of learned on s. She played a great

s s ff part in the hi tory of England , and by wi e e ort and expansion may live to extend her influence still wider and

n to confer increased benefits upo the nation .

- C m m n c n s P t a n d P re e n . 2 0 . o u i at i o as s t

s l w . C n l s . Road . Rai ays a a

The oldest roads in O xford shire are the trackways

s s which were made in prehi toric time , connecting early

s s s s. ettlement , and often guarded by camp and earthwork Such a trackway runs from Rollright Stone s northward along the top of the hill s separating the territories of the

Dobu n i and the C a rn a bii a s far a s Na dbu ry Camp . Another run s from the same stones by Hook Norton

Camp and through Tadmarton Camp , through Banbury, connecting with Banbury Lane a long trackway leading

s s s into Northampton hire . Along the e ancient trackway COMMUNICATIONS 1 6 1

R s about ollright and Tadmarton drover could travel ,

e as until the middl of the l t century , more than one

u ss hundred mile s witho t pa ing through a tollbar . The

Sa lt w a s s s y, another ancient trackway, which till exi t

a t under that name Banbury, ran by the foot of Crouch

- h Hill in a south easterly dir ection towards London . T e

Th e S a l t w a y n e a r B a n b u ry

ss s Portway cro ed the Banbury Lane from north to outh ,

t h e orit a n i on the east of the di strict adj oining C . It O s n s entered xford hire at Soulder , proceeding outh to M Kirtlington and going on to Port eadow at Oxford .

It still remain s a direct and ancient trackway . The

Ic kn ield t h e s s Way, running from ea t coa t to Bath ,

s a passe s through Oxford shire . It enter the county ne r

D 0 . . I I 1 6 2 OXFORDS HIRE

s Chinnor, and then divide into an upper and a lower

ss s f road . Pa ing by A ton Rowant and then east o Watlington it skirts the Swyncomb e Down s and proceed s

s - s G ss in a outh we terly direction to oring, cro ing the

Thames to Streatley in Berkshire .

s u se s s The Roman often made of the e old trackway , improving them and paving them . The chief authority

s is d n ton in e Itin era r for Roman road in Britain the y,

- R a road book of the oman Empire , probably written in

s s 1 8 1 1 A . D the reign of Antoninu Piu ( 3 to 6 . )but largely

a s added to in l ter times. But it omit to record the great

t h e Roman road called Akeman Street, a branch of

e s Watling Str et, that ran through Tring and Ayle bury

es w a s to Cirenc ter and Bath . It probably a later Roman

t h e Itin era r road and th e refore not included in y . It

e s t h e s ent r the county from ea t near Blackthorn , not far

s s ss from Bice ter, proceed to Kirtlington acro the Cherwell ,

s s ss s through Wychwood Fore t to A thall , where it cro e

s s s ss the Windru h , and then goe up the hill ide acro the

so G s e s e Cheltenham road , and into louce t r hire to Cir n

c est er.

Another Roman road h a s been traced from Al c h est er

e s to Dorchest r running acros O tmoor . It probably

s es ss C a lleva s cro sed the Tham and pa ed on to or Silche ter . Th e building and repair of bridges a n d the main t en a n c e of road s in medieval times were con sidered

for s s s s. G s e s religiou act uild xi ted thi purpo e , and the

e s s monks k pt the road in repair on their propertie . They fell into sa d neglect after the destruction of monasterie s

s. and guild Arthur Young, who travelled about England

1 6 4 OXFORDS HIRE

1 6 s Turnpike Act in 7 3, which ordered the levying of toll

s s t h e s for the repair of the road . Hence aro e old tollbar which we re deemed such a nui sance in t h e middl e of t h e

t h e nineteenth century . They would be intolerable to

- S s - e swift peeding motori t of to day . But th y had their

s s t h e advantage , and ju tly exacted tribute for repair of

s s the road from tho e who used them . In the old coaching days Henley and Oxford were great coaching centres. The journey from London to ’ O s s 1 66 xford took two day in Anthony Wood time , in 5 , “ but two years later the flying coaches undertook to perform the journey in one day during t h e summer

s. s month The road continued to be very bad , and the passengers by t h e coache s had often to di smount and

s s s s s . walk up the hill , e pecially the teep a cent of Shotover

s s G s Highwaymen frequented the Chiltern , e pecially ang

s down and A ton Hill , and the road between Witney and “ Burford w a s not very sa fe from the gentleme n of the ” road . Some of the inns along the roads had not a very

good reputation and murders were committed . M atters improved with the nineteenth century . A great road led from London to Oxford and th ence to h Worcester . T e coach passed through Brentford and

s M e Houn low to aidenhead , and ent red the county at

f t h e s s. Henley, a town of amou coaching inn Thence

s s e route led by Bix Turnpike , Nettlebed , Ben on , Dorche t r O and Littlemore to xford , where the four principal “ ” ’ ” “ s s s Roe coaching inn were the Angel , King Arm , ” “ ” Buck, and Star . If you continued your journey you

ss Wolverc ot e s would pa through , Wood tock, Chipping COMMUNICATIONS 16 5

s h -in - Norton , pa t the Four S ire Stone to Moreton the

M s so s s it s ar h , and through Worce ter hire to county town . Another route from London to O xford ran through

S s High Wycombe , tokenchurch , Tet worth , Wheatley, O and over Shotover Hill to Headington and xford . The journey had been shortened by cutting a new road from

S . hotover The road would then conduct you to Witney ,

G s e . Burford , Northleach , and Cheltenham to louce t r

s w a s e Thi great road onc the glory of the county . The

G w a s fame of the reat North Road , or of the Bath Road ,

a not greater than that of thi s Cotswold road . It w s

w a s se r enowned long before the coaching age . It traver d

s t h e s by the wain of cloth merchant , and half the wealth

E sse sea of ngland pa d over it to the . There were many

ss s s s - s s cro road along which coache or po t chai e ran . You

e s ss could journ y from Bri tol to Norwich , pa ing through

s O . Malme bury , Faringdon , Botley Hill , and xford ’ We a re warned in M aggs s R oa d B eef ( 1 8 2 3) that “ the road from Oxford to Cambridge w a s very in ” ff s s s di erent , and tudent were advi ed to go round by

W s High ycombe and St Alban . The direct road led to

W e s s s h atley , Thame , Ayle bury, Dun table , Roy ton , and

r s Camb idge . You could al o travel from Oxford to Cambridge and thence to Newmarket and Norwich by

ss s e . pa ing through Bice ter , Buckingham , and B dford

e s O Anoth r road ran outh from xford to Wallingford , and t hen on to Basingstoke and Chiche ster ; anoth er O from xford to D erby, by Banbury and Coventry .

e e O Anoth r conn cted xford with Peterborough , by way 16 6 OXFORDS HIRE

m a n d e of Brackley and Northa pton , there wer many

ss a other cro road s tr versing the county .

s is i i Its The Great We tern the pr nc pal railway .

s a t main line touche the county Goring and Culham .

s s The Henley branch tart from Twyford in Berkshire . The northern branch leaves D idcot (Berks ) and run s nearly due north through the county from Oxford to

C a n a l a t O xford

s Fenny Compton . A branch from O xford goe through

a irford s Yarnton and Witney to F , another to Worce ter

e by Charlbury and Chipping Norton Junction . Anoth r run s from Chipping Norton Junction by Hook Norton ’ s a n d to King Sutton , another through Wheatley and

s s s Thame to Prince Ri borough , whence a branch run to

n s Watli gton . The London and North We tern Railway h a s a sta tion at O xford for a branch leading from that

1 68 OXFORDS HIRE compl e te of money had been spent in making

a s t h e se s t h e c nal and improving cour of river , when

s ss invention of railway doomed them to idlene , and P se e m . ss cau d th ir abandon ent o ibly, now that motor

is s s traction available , the ilent waterway of England may

a b e s s s e s of ag in u ed and have a pro perou futur , but mo t

a re s them at pre ent derelict and forgotten .

M a pl e d u rh a m L oc k

2 1 Adm n s r on a n d D v on . i i t ati i isi s rn An ci en t a n d M ode . The gradual growth and development of local govern

a s a ment is an int ere sting study . L w are m de in Parliament

t h e is e s for whole country, but power giv n to countie or ADMINISTRATION AND DIVIS IONS 1 6 9

a p rts of count i es and boroughs to manage their own affa irs. All thi s is but a dev elopment of the system of government

n w a s which exi sted in Saxon times. The the King the

s upreme ruler , and he had a kind of central parliament ,

s s s s s i i s con i ting of bi hop , abbot , and the pr nc pal thane or

s ss s t h e landowner , who a i ted him in the governing of

s country . But each county had a council called a hire

m et s s e mote , which twice a year , and con i t d of the

It s s ffi s fr e eholders of the county . pre iding o cer were

s s s the Ealdorman , who e name urvive in the modern

- ff es Alderman , and the Shire reeve , or Sheri , who repr ented

the King .

s s s s - - s Be ide thi hire mote there were the Hundred court .

w a s s Each county divided into Hundred , each of which

s s e s con i ted of a hundred families of freem n . Oxford hire

h a s 1 it s. s 4 Hundred Each Hundred had own court ,

m et s its s ss which once a month for ettling own bu ine ,

s s s s s. adju ting di pute , and trying pri oner It had a regular

e —s s s plac of meeting ome con picuou tree , or near a ford , or M s a hill . ost of the Oxfordshire Hundred are named

s after certain place within their area, but that of Lang tree may have been named after some tree where the court w a e s h ld .

S s u The axon had yet another court . Each H ndred w a s s s s s compo ed of a number of town hip or village , and each township had it s own court under t h e presidency of

ffi s s an o cer called the reeve . In Norman time thi becam e

s t h e n the manorial court pre ided over by the lord of ma or ,

h is e s or by re ve or teward . These manori a l courts hav e

s " s continued for many centurie , and their record throw 17 0 OXFORDS HIRE much light on the hi story of each pari sh which h a s

- s preserved it s court roll .

n h a s ff s In our own day each cou ty two chief o icer ,

is the Lord Lieutenant , who appointed by the Crown and is usually a n obleman or rich landowner ; and the High

ff is s e 1 h 2t . Sheri , who cho en ev ry year on November In 1 888 County Councils were establi shed by Act of

m t h e O s s Parlia ent, and xford hire County Council meet

O s s s a 1 at xford , and con i t of a ch irman , 5 aldermen , and

47 councillors. They keep in repair the main road s and

s s s se bridge , levy rate for thi purpo and for other county

s s s s s requirement , manage a ylum , allotment , and mall

s d im holding , and deal with e ucation and many other

e s portant matt r . In 1 894 another Act w a s p a ssed which created Urban and Rural D i strict Councils and provided Pari sh Council s r for e ach pari sh of over 30 0 inhabitants. There a e 1 6

s s s Urban and Rural Di trict Council in Oxford hire . Separated from thi s system of county government are the

e s s s e larg town , and ome town which are anci nt but not

e n a large , which have th ir own municipal gover ment h nded

m s s down to them from a re ote past . The e power have

s t h e s been granted by royal charter , and town are governed

. s s O by a Mayor and Corporation The e town are xford ,

s . Wood tock, Henley , Chipping N orton , and Banbury

s it s w a s Burford u ed to have municipal corporation , but deprived of it by the M unicipal Corporation Act of

1 6 It s w a s s 8 1 . importance hown by the granting of sixteen royal charters to the little town . Th ere are also Poor Law Union s controlled by Boards

1 72 OXFORDS HIRE

If the cri m e is a grave one the pri soner is sent to be

ss tried by the Judge of the A ize Courts.

is m There a peculiar form of govern ent at Oxford . As above stated there a re the Mayor and Corporation and Borough Magi strates who try pri soners ; but there is al so ’ - s the Vice Chancellor court , connected with the Univer

sit . s h a s s s y Thi court great power , and exerci e control

s s over all the member of the Univer ity, who can claim ’ to be tried in the Vice - Chancellor s Court and not by the

s s s s authoritie of the city . It al o exerci e control over the

s e s trade m n of the city, in connection with their dealing

m h Th e e s h a s with me bers of t e University . Univ r ity

ffi s s a se e o cer called Proctor , who h ve to that the under

s s s s s graduate ob erve the rule , and can levy fine on tho e who do not wear their academic dress in the streets or tran sgress other regulations.

0 s s O s There are 3 3 civil pari he in xford hire , but for ecclesiastica l purposes the county is divided into 2 39

s s O f s s a n d pari he . x ord hire with Berk hire Buckingham

is shire con stitute the Oxford dioce se . The cathedral at

’ O t h e B ish O s s s xford , and p re ide at Cudde don , about eight

is miles from the c i ty . Each county an archdeaconry and i a n s s u s supervi sed by Archdeacon . Pari he are gro ped

s a is together into rural deanerie , e ch of which in charge

s is of a rural dean , who e duty it to go round to the churches in h is di strict and se e that everything is kept in proper order . The Co u nty of Oxford shire sends three members to Parliam ent and is divided into three Parliamenta ry Divi h s s. s s t e ion The e are the Northern or Banbury Divi ion , ADMINISTRATION AND DIVIS IONS 1 73

M id or s s n Wood tock Divi io , and the Southern or Henley

Divi sion . The city of Oxford now send s only one mem ber , but formerly returned two to Parliament , and the U n iversity of Oxford sends t wo members to repre sent it in the council of the nation .

2 2 . Rol l ofHon ou r.

The presenc e of Oxford University in t h e shire h a s brought to it many of the greatest men of light and

l h a s ss is t h e learning that Eng and ever known . Endle roll

s s s s s ss s s s of cholar and age , poet and profe or , philo opher and

s O s ss s theologian , who owe to xford their ucce e and their

e is ss s r nown . But it not po ible in a ingle chapter to do more than refer to Oxford shire worthie s who hav e done honour to the county apart from t h e university ; men and

e e s women who hav be n born or bred in the hire , or

s i honoured it by re iding within t s borders.

R oe s s ichard C ur de Lion , writer of ver e , friend of

w a s 1 1 t h e Bertrand de Born , born in 5 7 at Palace of

Beaumont outside the northern wall of Oxford . He always retain e d an affection for the place of h is birth . R s ichard , Earl of Cornwall , King of the Roman , built

s w a s a palace at Beckley , which pari h once owned by

s s s King Alfred , and be towed great benefit on the hire , using h is great wealth for the bu ildin g a n d decorating of x churches.

O er s s s th royal per on , native of the county, were

t h e . s 1 0 a s Edward , Prince of Wale ( 33 known

s son 111 Black Prince , the elde t of King Edward , born 174 OXFORDS HIRE

s t h e Poic t ie rs at Wood tock, hero of Crecy and ; and ’ s of s s s s son Thoma Wood tock, the ame king younge t , noted for h is turbulent character and h is tragic death

s h is 11 at Calai during the reign of nephew, Richard .

s Oxford hir e can boast of some poets. The Dublin manuscript of Piers Plow ma n h a s a marginal not e to the

a n o ou s e W oods oc M r H , t k

' (Repu ted oz rtltpl a c e oftire B l a c k P rin c e)

’ effect that William Langland s fa ther w a s a native of

- - s is Shipton under Wychwood , and thi village believed ’ ’ s ff to have been the poet birthplace . Geo rey Chaucer s

is s w a s memory connected with Wood tock, where he a

111 H e w a member of the court of Edward . s certainly

1 a n d h is s t h e P a rlia men t o there in 35 7 , allu ion in f

1 76 OXFORDS HIRE

s a n d 1 8 1 u ed to wander over Shotover, in 5 he tracked

‘ the Thames to it s source and wrote some of h is sweetest ’

s . s s s s O line upon it Word worth onnet on xford , written

1 8 20 s h is s s in , are well known , and al o plea ant de cription “ a e i s O s s . of a Par on g in xford hire , which Souldern

s w a s l Tenny on married at Shiplake , where ived a clergy

v h o s man y added a new word to the Engli h language ,

s G B io ra bic a l H istor o Jame ranger , who wrote the g p y f

E n /a n d - us g , and introduced the practice of extra ill trating “ s G s s book , called rangeri ing, thereby de troying many

a books from which he removed pl tes and picture s. William

’ M s s t h e orri , poet , arti t , reformer , lived in quiet manor

s s s d s s s hou e at Kelm cott , mu e on the field of I i , and

e se h is Od sse s labour d , nding forth into the world printed y y

d en eids e s - s s a n d s and , dy d wool and wall paper , Saga ocial

s s s . e pamphlet , in trange confu ion With him lived Dant

G ss abriel Ro etti , painter and poet , who often wrote in

s s h is poem s about the natural beautie of Kelm cott . He sang of the low- lying meadows

a fl oodl a n fl a m When the dr ined ds unt their a rigold s.

He prai sed the beauties of the arrow-head rush with it s “ ” lovely staffof blossom just like a little sceptre ; and

s when the now lay deep upon the ground , and — The current shudder s t o it s ice bound sedge ;

in a t h e s a s on e on e Nipped their b th , t lk reed by

a s t a m n n Fl h ea ch i s clinging di ond i the su .

William Morri s gives a description of Kelm scott in h is

New s rom N ow /oere s h is E a rtbl f , and there devi ed y

P a ra dise . ROLL OF HONOUR 177

Of i es s h a s O . learned div n xford hire many Leofric ,

s s w a s s fir t bi hop of Exeter, born at Bampton , which till

s it s t h e see s s retain connection with . The bi hop of

O s s xford have long re ided at Cudde don , and on the walls of t h e Palace are the portraits of the many learned

ee is ffi s men who have held the s . It di cult to el ect

s s s n s s s name of pecial di tinctio from thi li t of famou men ,

1 s beginning with Robert King in 5 45 to the late bi hop,

M s Franci s Paget . ention hould be made of the heroic

s s Bi hop Skinner, who during the time of per ecution under t h e Commonwealth lived in the rectory at Launton , and at great per sonal ri sk ordain ed 30 0 or 40 0 clergymen

e s during that p riod . Archbi hop Juxon , who attended

s s ff w a s e Charle I on the ca old , rector of Som rton , and ’ s s w a s buri e d in St John College Chapel . Bi hop Secker

O s s s of xford , afterward Archbi hop of Canterbury, bapti ed , ’

e G e . s s crowned , and marri d eorg III Bi hop Wilberforce

e is so fam well known that it need not be recalled . ’ ’ Archbi shop Laud s connection with St John s College h H e lin a s . already been mentioned Dr y , theologian and

s s w a s hi torian , chaplain of Charle I , born at Burford .

O e w a s St a dh a m The Puritan divine , John w n , born at p of h i s s w a s s . ton , which pari h father mini ter He had to ’ leave Oxford on account of h is opposition to Laud s regu la t ion s. He preached before Parliament on the day after ’ t h e s s execution of Charle I , and became Cromwell chap s s s O lain , and ub equently Dean of Chri t Church , xford ,

- s . S and Vice Chancellor of the Univer ity D r outh , the

e s e w a s witty pr acher of the Re toration p riod , rector of

s s e s e I lip , and left behind him om memorial in a r built

D . o. 1 2 178 OXFORDS HIRE

e s w a s s i chanc l and rectory . I lip famou for t s learn e d

s s s s s . s rector , who were al o Dean of We tmin ter Among t

s them may be mentioned William Vincent , philologi t, died

1 8 1 1 6 1 5 , John Ireland ( 7 founder of the Ireland

s s s O W 1 8 cholar hip at xford , and Dr illiam Buckland ( 7 4

1 8 t h e a s gre t geologi t, and father of Frank Buckland ,

s . s the naturali t John Henry Newman , afterward Car ’ w a s s s dinal , vicar of Littlemore and al o of St Mary , h i h O s s s ss t e . xford , ju t before ece ion to Church of Rome

w a s 1 6 Th e church at Littlemore built by him in 8 3 . O fstate smen and warriors Oxfordshire h a s had no

s lack . William Mar hall , Earl of Pembroke , the guardian

s . of Henry III , died at Caver ham At Ewelme lived

e ff William de la Pol , Duke of Su olk , who died a violent

sea 1 0 e s of death at in 45 , and aft rward Edmund , Earl

s Lincoln . Henry VIII vi ited him at Ewelme but after

s . s on e ward executed him Luciu Cary, Lord Falkland ,

t h e s t h e w a s of noble t men of Civil War period , born at 1 6 1 0 Burford in , killed at the battle of Newbury , and h i ir Gr s w a s. S buried at eat Tew , where home Henry

K h is s . G . Lee, , lived at Ditchley, where de cendant, Lord

D n ow s s. s illon , re ide He performed good ervice at the siege of Edinburgh in 1 5 74 and w a s made Ranger of

s Dorc h e s . s Wood tock Park Dudley Carleton , Vi count t er 1 s son w a s ( 5 74 econd of Anthony Carleton ,

w a s ss born at Baldwin Brightwell , and amba ador in

S . Venice , Holland , and France , and Secretary of tate

w a s s s He a great patron of painter , and to him Ruben “ dedicated the engraving of Th e Descent from the ” ss a e Cro . The f mily of Saye and Sel lived at Broughton

1 8 0 OXFORDS HIRE

M s W G a t . Prime ini ter of eorge III , lived roxton Abbey

ffi w a s s He held o ce during the American War, and alway

e h i s ss treat d by s overeign a s a per sonal friend . A bra memorial at Whitchurch record s the memory of a bold

s Wa l sc h w a s e - man , Sir Thoma y , who val t trayer or food

s s a s . ta ter to the Lanca trian mon rch , Henry IV , V , and VI In the days of con spiracie s and poi son s h is offi ce required s ome courage .

R s s egicide hould not appear on a roll of honour, but Sir Jame s Harrington of Merton who took a prominent ’ w a s t h e s es part in the Civil War and one of king judg ,

s a s s mu t be mentioned a notability . He re ided for a long

t h e s h is s period at manor hou e of Merton , and grand on ,

s C a versfi eld w a s Sir Jame Harrington of Merton and , a

is sa a s vehement Jacobite , id to h ve entertained Charle

S e 1 e tuart aft r Culloden , and after 745 lived in Franc at the court of the Pretender . Another regicide , Adrian

s s w a s Scrope , owned Worm ley, and at the Re toration S . s executed Sir John Borla e , who owned tratton Audley,

s s ss s an Iri h Judge , helped to uppre the Iri h rebellion of

6 i s 1 1 . H s s 4 grand on , Admiral John Borla e Warren , fought with di stinction in the American and French

s naval war in the eighteenth century , and lie at Stratton . Warren Hastings w a s born at Churchill in 1 732 and w a s brought up a s a charity boy at the pari sh school .

s Robert Dudley, Earl of Leice ter , one of Queen Eliza ’ s s s on e s beth earlie t favourite , and the only who ucceeded in t re t a in in s h is g her favour to the clo e of career , died at

s w a s s s e s Cornbury Hou e , and uppo ed to hav been poi oned h i s t s se s. by cond wife , Lettice Knolly If the tory be rue ROLL OF HONOUR 1 8 1

h e s h is s s that cau ed the death of fir t wife Amy Rob art , at ’ a s s Ken itw ort/y h e Cumnor , recorded in Sir Walter Scott ,

h i u se s . s de rved fate At Cornb ry lived Edward Hyde , fir t Earl of Clare n don ( 1 6 0 9 Lord Chancellor of Eng

s t h e h is land , and the hi torian of great Civil War , and

W a rre n H a sti n gs

son h is . , Lord Cornbury, took title from that place He w a s a member of the Long Parliament , and took an

s s active part in trying to reform abu e , but adhered to the

H is royal cause when the Civil War broke out . daughter 18 2 OXFORDS HIRE

s s Anne married the Duke of York, afterward Jame II , and thus he became the grandfather of two Queens of

s England , Mary and Anne . Thi marriage created for

s e him many enemie , and he died in exile at Rou n .

G s Sir s At od tow lived John Walter , a famou lawyer ,

w a s -G n e s 1 6 1 who Attorney eneral to Pri c Charle in 3, and Chief Baron of the Exchequer . In the matter of th e di spute between the King and the Commons he lost the favour of h is sovereign by h is uprightness and di e d

1 6 1 His is in 3 . monument in the church at Wolve r

. G w a s e cote Sir eorge Coke , of Studley, a noted judg in ’ ’ 0 1 s s 1 s w a s the Court King Bench in Charle reign , and ’ bold enough to pronounce again st the legality of the Ki n g s

- e s . e s attempt to xtort hip money He bought Wat r tock , and died there in 1 64 1 . At Burford Priory at the close of h is life lived William

L en t h a ll s s s , Speaker of the Hou e of Common , who pre ided

w a s n over the Long Parliament . He a ative of the county,

-on — s 1 1 w a s having been born at Henley Thame in 5 9 , ’ O s s educated at xford at St Alban Hall , and repre ented

O s s s . an xford hire con tituency, Wood tock He bought

f s h is Bur ord Priory ju t before the Civil War, and family

As held it nearly 20 0 years. Speaker he lived in dan gerou s times and occupied the chair when Charles I e e s s t h e nter d the Hou e , and demanded the urrender of

s s t h e five member . He welcomed the Re toration of

h is monarchy , but retired to beautiful home at Burford

s e s e and died two years later . In the am hou e liv d

Ta n fi eld e Sir Lawrence , Chief Baron of the Exch quer

es in the reign of Jam I .

1 8 4 OXFORDS HIRE

( 1 8 1 2 who w a s the second son of the rector of

M w a s . e ixbury, where he born After a brilliant car er at Oxford he b ecame Solicitor-General in Lord Palmer ’ on s s 1 86 1 n st mini try in and Lord Chancellor of E gland .

s Th e B ooko P ra ise s He publi hed f , and loved hymn and

ses a s a s s. ver quite much law book Another great lawyer, Sir John Bankes ( 1 5 89 though not a native of the

s O hire , lived at xford during the Civil War period when

s h is s s Charle I held court there , and died there and re t in

w a s — the cathedral . He Attorney General in 1 634 and “ earned the reputation of hav ing exceeded Bacon in

s eloquence , Chancellor Elle mere in judgment , and William ” s h a s m s Noy in law . Oxford hire been fa ou for it s su c c essfu l lawyers. Be sides the warriors we have already mentioned we

t h e on e may record name of Earl Cadogan , of Marl ’ “ ’ borough s most trusted generals. Cadogan s Horse

s s became famou on many battlefield , and he won renown s O . H e at Blenheim , Ramilie , udenarde, and Malplaquet

s S s 1 1 cru hed the tuart ri ing in 7 5 , and on the death of t h e Duke he becam e commander -in -chief of t h e armies

s s e s s ofEngland . He re ided for om year at Caver ham

s s Park . The famou John Churchill , fir t Duke of Marl

s of s s e t h e borough , him elf, cour e , re ided at Blenh im , gift

w a s of a grateful nation , where he buried , and there lived

h is ss f s u ss s t h e also no le amou D che , Sarah Jenning , favourite friend and Keeper of the Privy Purse of Quee n

H er n s Anne . viole t temper u ed to try the Duke , and

e s ss e s ev n her royal mi tre found her unbearabl at time , and sh e lost her favour through t h e intrigues of Lady ROLL OF HONOUR 1 8 5

— s s is M asham . The la t oldierwe will mention Sir John

- s s S Cope , the ill fated commander at Pre tonpan in cot

a 1 s s land , battle fought in 745 again t Charle Edward the “ w h o t h e s Young Pretender, defeated royal troop and

w a s s . a s e invaded England Sir John , or he u ually call d ,

W a dh a m C oll e g e ( W/z ere t/ze R oy a l S oc i ety lza d its origin )

e e e w a s Johnni Cop , lived at Bruern Abb y , which after

e wards de stroy d by fire .

e e s s s e 1 2 1 Rog r Bacon , arly cienti t and philo oph r ( 4

e O . lived and worked , and probably di d at xford ’ Friar Bacon s study w a s the name of an old gatehouse

e 1 0 . n ar Folly Bridge , pulled down in 77 18 6 OXFORDSHIRE

The presence of the court of Charles I at Oxford brought together many men of eminence in various pro

es f sion s. We like to think of the celebrated Dr Harvey — ( 1 5 78 1 6 5 7)during the turm oil of war quietly conducting h is s M experiment on the circulation of the blood , at erton

w a s s 1 College , of which he appointed Warden by Charle . He set a hen in a corner of h is room and every day broke

e s an egg to see how it had d veloped . During thi time of anxi e ty and continual fighting the Royal Society pra c t i

its Dr cally commenced career at Wadham College .

e Harvey enjoyed the confidenc of the King, and during t h e battle of Edgehill w a s entrusted with t h e care of the

e s royal childr n, the Prince of Wale and the Duke of

York . O xford shire h a s had the honour of producing several

B ee h e R A 1 s s s . c . . arti t of di tinction Sir William y, ( 7 5 3 who painted portraits of most of the royal person s

h is s s s e of day and al o of the mo t fa hionabl , literary , and

s w a s . theatrical character of the period , born at Burford

R xa ll R A 1 8 0 e o . . 0 Sir William , ( another celebrat d G portrait painter , and director of the National allery,

s w a s the son of an O xford hire exci seman . Waller came of an old Burford family and introduced the old priory “ into h is painting of The Empty Saddle and into some

w a s other pictures. The wife of Sir Godfrey Kneller the

M r e sh e l s daughter of Cawley , rector of Henl y, where ie

s G 1 buried with her parent . Valentine reen ( 739

- v m associate engra er of the Royal Acade y, antiquary and

w a s t h e son author, born near Chipping Norton , being

- H e a s of a dancing master . achieved fame a mezzotint

1 8 8 OXFORDS HIRE

s G him elf Soane , became a pupil of eorge Dance , the

h is s s s s architect , and by indu try and kill rai ed him elf to

h i H i s s m s ss . s M the head of profe ion famou u eu , which ’ s s he founded in Lincoln Inn Field , he endowed and

bequeath e d to the nation .

W s s Dr hite Kennet, afterward Bi hop of Peter

of P a roc /oia l An ti u ities o borough , the author the q f

Ambrosden a n d B u rcester O s e , a celebrated xford hir book ,

s se w a s vicar of Ambro den in the venteenth century .

se s Dr Plot, who word we have more than once quoted ,

N a tu ra l H istor o Ox ords/oire 1 6 author of the y f f in 7 7 ,

e O a s though not a native , liv d long at xford Keeper of

l M s s s e the Ashmo ean u eum . Other local hi torian wer

n n a u t h or Blom fi eld La u t o . the Rev . J . C . , rector of , of

s s . the hi tory of Bice ter Deanery, and the Rev Edward

M s s s O . ar hall , author of the Dioce an Hi tory of xford These are som e of the names of the most illustrious s s O s on of xford hire , a roll of honour of which any county

u might be pro d . T H E O AND S 2 3 . CHIEF T WNS VILLAGE X or O FO RDSHIRE .

i (Th e fi g u re s in br a ckets a fter ea ch na m e give the popul a tion

in 1 0 1 s of 1 1 1 s s a re 9 , but where the figure the 9 cen u

a a a a re a n a s s v il ble they given , preceded by teri k . The figures a t t h e e n d ofea ch section refer to the pa ges in the

text . )

Adde rb u r a n d a a fm s s of a n y three h l ile outh B bury , is a s a fi n e m a a fr i picture que town with church re rk ble o t s spire . There is a n ol d rhym e “ B oxh a m fr n th l o l e g ,

A erb u r for st ren th dd y g ,

’ A n d K in s on for b a t g Su t t e u y .

The principa l fea ture ofthe church is it s bea utiful Decora ted

a n d a a fa m s work the Perpendicul r ch ncel , erected by the ou

of s s a n d f m s a ofh is a e W a m inventor thi tyle , ore o t rchitect g , illi of a m f . n m a o s Wykeh The witty Joh Wil ot , E rl Roche ter ( 1 64 7 a n d the second Duke ofArgyle lived here in a n old

s n a . o s . (pp 0 6 8 1 1 6 hou e the town green , where Pope t yed 4 , , ,

Al c h e st e r m a s ofa om a t wo m s s , the re in R n town ile outh f o s . . 1 0 2 Bice ter (pp ,

A st h a ll (35 5 ) is a bea utiful vill a ge three m iles south -ea st of

u f a t h e m a m a S a n n s B r ord , ne r Ro n Ake n treet , with i tere ting

m a s a s church a n d a n Eli z a beth a n nor hou e . The church ret in 1 90 OXFORDS HIRE

s m m a n fa s a n d is a m a n in s on o e Nor e ture , l te Nor con tructi with

n s m a in a a s a d a s. (pp . 1 0 1 2 ddition decor tion de l ter period 9 , 4 ,

B a m p t on a n old- world m a rket town with a noble

on e m a a s s o m church . At ti e c tle to d here , built by Ay er de

in a a of m o in 1 1 . s m s C V lence , E rl Pe br ke , 3 5 A kir i h the ivil

Wa r a a old s om s a on in s took pl ce here . M ny cu t h ve lingered thi

G o e R oom R e in e e r In n a n b u r l b , d , B y

o s a Th e is a a fi n e a Ior it s b cure pl ce . church p rticul rly , not ble

m a ss ive Norm a n work a n d E a rly Engli sh a ddition s. The spire

s to a a n d s m s a of a a belong the l tter period , re e ble th t the c thedr l .

a n s s a a s n a The E rly E gli h edili , Decor ted reredo , Perpe dicul r

a s a n m a r n fa s s d s s e s . . 8 8 E ter epulchre i erere intere ti g e ture (pp ,

1 9 2 OXFORDS HIRE

a ss a - a s a n d a n - i a ss s a . s gl , holy w ter toup hour gl t nd The choir

a . 1 0 . . 1 0 0 1 0 2 Decor ted c 3 3 (pp , 9 , , B e n sin g t on or B e n son on the Th a m es a m ile

of a f w a s a s in a a e north W lling ord , bu y town the co ching g with i a s a n d m a ffi . s n ow o a s l rge inn uch tr c It nly vill a ge . A Briti h

s w a s a t h e Sa n s in 1 a n d town tood here which t ken by xo 5 7 ,

ffa f a fa s Sa n A . D O King o Merci de e ted the We t xons here i 7 7 7 . Th e old l a te Norm a n church h a s bee n m uch m oderni sed a n d

ld fa 1 s o m s t o it s o s. . 8 6 re t red without uch re pect e ture (PD , Bic e st e r is a sm a ll m a rket town with a n ota ble

h a d a t on e m a f a ss church . It ti e priory , ounded by Gilbert B ett

in 1 1 8 of a re s m s a m a s. It s a m w a s 3 , which there o e c nty re in n e f m B ere n c ea st re a n d is a on St Birin u s or erly , prob bly c nected with ,

Th h a s a a s of ss . e S a a the po tle We ex church xon doorw y , the

m a s ofa n a s a n d m m a re in e rlier tructure , uch Nor n work , though

a in t h e a n d f t h e a i sles were dded thirteenth ourteenth centuries.

1 1 2 6 1 2 2 1 6 2 (pp . 0 6 , , 34 , 4 , 5 3 , 7 , , ,

l e t c h in don six m s of f is a sm a B g ile north Ox ord , ll

a s it s n s t o a s a of vill ge which owe i tere t the P rk , the e t Lord

a Th e m s a s on e a w a s fr Va lenti . odern hou e repl ce th t held o the

in W a r a n d a m King the Civil c ptured by Cro well .

l o h a m 1 0 a n d a a fm s so - so - s of B x ( 5 9 ), three h l ile uth uth we t

a is a a sa a a a s s fa a n d is B nbury , ple nt vill ge th t c ll it el town ,

r s a n d it s m a n Th noted fo it school gnifice t church . e rhym e ” rel a ting t o Bl oxh a m for length h a s a lrea dy been quoted under

s is on e oft h e m os a f in Adderbury . Thi church t be uti ul the

T is s m m a n a n d a so a s county . here o e Nor work , l E rly Engli h , but it s chieffea ture is t h e S plendid Decora ted work ofthe north

ft h e s a n d o m of a n d o . a o w a s side the church , pire t wer The n r a cquired by the Fiennes fa m ily in the reign ofHenry VIII a n d

n 1 I is still owned by Lord Sa ye a d Sele . (p . Brou gh t on t wo a n d a h a lf m iles south -west of

a is a sm a a a c a a n d is B nbury , ll vill ge with De or ted church , CHIEF TOWNS AND VILLAGES 1 9 3

fa m o s m a n a s s a of o S a rendered u by the g ificent c tle , the e t L rd ye a n d S w a s ele . It fir st built by the De Broughton s a t the

n of t h e f n beginni g ourtee th century . Willi a m of Wykeh a m bought the m a nor a n d pre se n ted it t o h is grea t - n ephew Sir

T m a s a m s ss m a a t o ho Wykeh , who e heire brought it by rri ge

a m Sa a n S T om a d . s a m i Willi , Lord ye ele h Wykeh n 1 4 6 7

a of a s a n d o o o s a n d n n s erected p rt the g tehou e ther p rti n , the Fie e fa m a z a a n s T is ily dded the Eli beth n buildi g . here a ch a pel in t h e o s of o a o In n h u e the Dec r ted peri d . the cou cil ch a m ber

a m o Sa a n d S a n d h is f n s a re sa t o a Willi , L rd ye ele , rie d id h ve devi sed pl a n s for the resi sta nce t o the Ki n g which led t o the

Wa r i C . oom n a s n t h e s s of ivil A long r the ttic , wherei oldier

Sa a n d S s f a of is a Lord ye ele lept be ore the b ttle Edgehill , c lled — h e a a s 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 t . . 8 6 B rr ck (Pp , 34 , 4 , 4 ,

B u rford ( 1 3 2 3) is on e ofthe m ost interesting towns in the

h a d n a m a n d o o a n n w u n . a h a s o os co ty It o ce yor c rp r tio , but l t f m it s m a s. w a s fa m s for it s o unicip l right It or erly ou cloth , wo l ,

a n d sa s f s n m a . s on o s o ss a n d to e , lt , ddle It tood the b rder We ex

w a s s ofm a n a w a s Merci a a n d the cene y fights. Ne r it the Forest of o n n of o m a n s a n d w a s Wychwo d , the hu ti g ground N r king , it the fir st town in E n gl a nd t o receive the privilege ofa Merch a n t

- . a a m a o Guild E rl W rwick , the King ker , wned the town , built t h e oft h e a n d f a m s s s o porch church , ounded the l hou e , th ugh they

a n s a a of were re lly give by Henry Bi hop , n tive the town . A priory stood here which a t the di ssolution ofthe m on a steries w a s

’ n t m a m a n n n - n o s a s o . f give Ed und H r , Ki g He ry b rber urge A ter

a s it a ss t o Sir a Ta n fi el d t o s C a w rd p ed L wrence , then Luciu ry ,

o a a n a n d t o a m Len t h a l l S a of L rd F lkl d , then Willi , pe ker

f w a s s ( een z a a a m . u the Long P rli ent B r ord vi ited by b Eli beth , i a m s 1 C a s C a s a n d i a m 111 . s J e , h rle I , h rle II , W lli The church a m a s a n d a a re a m s o s s a n d gnificent tructure , ne r it the l h u e

m m t h e a sa s a a S . Of s S Gr r chool thi church , treet , rchitect , y th a t there is n ot on e in t h e wh ole dioce se ofOxford which exceed s

D . O . 19 4 OXFORDS HIRE

a f in a a n d a a n s . w a s n o m it be uty rchitectur l i tere t It origi lly cruci r , with a centra l tower ; but so m a ny a i sle s a n d ch a pel s h a ve been

i a No m a is s a a t s a n is . dded th t pl irregul r Little r n work vi ible , a n d the a rchitecture is m a i n ly ofthe E a rly E n gli sh a n d Perpen

i l a is a s ofa m s d c u r s . tyle It replete with det il rchitecture , to b ,

f n s n s old n n s m n m s a n d m a o s o a . o u ent , ny bject u u u l i tere t The i , ” a a n d t h e o a n o s or o n - a the Be r Ge rge , the ncie t T l ey t w h ll , Th e o a n d m a n ol d a o s s a re a l l of o . y g bled h u e , worthy n tice t wn

’ H a m den s b e is C h a ro e p O l k , l g v

w a s the scene oft h e rebellion ofthe Leveller s a ga inst C rom well .

wa s su ss s m of t h e m en n s o in t h e It ppre ed here , o e bei g h t

C a 8 I 2 2 2 0 2 6 8 0 8 0 hurchy rd (Pp ) 7 ) ) 9 1 39 1 4 ) 4 ) 5 4 ) ) 7 1 7 7 7 )

C a v e rsh a m is n ow a s of a n a n d h a s uburb Re di g ,

a a s it o a n fi s o . n e m a on l rgely incre ed p pul ti A ediev l bridge , up

w a s a a ss a m s h a s n a which ch pel , cro ed the Th e , but it bee repl ced

1 9 6 OXFORDS HIRE

- a i t h l d —a s a r s m e o s s. e town h ll odern , but guild h ll till exi t There a m Th a l shouses erected in 1 6 4 0 . e princip l tr a des ofthe tow n a re - m n a a n d . (pp . 8 1 0 6 1 1 8 tweed king brewi g , 3 , 3 3 , 4 , 7 , 7 7 , ,

C o s 0 is a n s n a a n m a g g ( 7 9 ) intere ti g vill ge ne r Wit ey , re rk a bl e for it s o ofol d s V a a a n a n d gr up building , church , ic r ge , b r

m a o u s . . 1 2 1 1 2 8 n r ho e (pp , ,

C ow l e y (9 2 5 8 ) owes it s l a rge popul a tion t o it s nea rne ss t o

fo of a oft h e a s is a s Th e a s of Ox rd , which p rt p ri h uburb . vill ge Tem ple Cowley a n d C hurch Cowley a re t w o a n d a h a lfm iles f m Th e is o s a s o is n ot a s ro the city . church curi u , the t wer high a s o fof a h a s som o o m a a n d a the r o the n ve , but it e go d N r n E rly

s o Th e a f a of os a of St Engli h w rk . be uti ul ch pel the H pit l ’ a om o of O C o o a s B rthol ew , the pr perty riel llege , nce leper

i n os a s i C . . h pit l , owley (p

C rop re dy (4 3 6) is a sm a ll vill a ge three a n d a h a lfm ile s

n Wa r north ofB a nbury where a b a ttle w a s fought i the C ivil .

h a s a o a of a It go d church , princip lly the Decor ted period , which

o a s som a m o ofso s s a n in t h e a . . c nt in e r ur ldier l i b ttle (pp 9 3 ,

C udde sdon ( 1 3 3 2 ) conta ins t h e pa l a ce of the Bi sh op of

f n a in 1 6 n in t h e C Wa r a n d Ox ord , origi lly built 3 5 , bur t ivil ,

f n n m a o on t o o o . rebuilt i 1 6 7 9 . The n r bel ged the Abbey Abi gd n

is u fo m of m a n a The church cr ci r , Nor d te , with thirteenth century

a s s a n d n a a . . 1 2 1 2 i le Perpe dicul r ch ncel (pp 44 , I , 7 ,

D e ddin g t on ( 1 4 9 0 ) is a sm a ll m a rket - tow n a n d once

a t posse ssed a ca stle . Here Pier s G a v est on w a s c ptured by h e

f a n n a o . C a s a m fo m a s E rl W rwick tle F r , r erly ixtee th ce tury

a s is a n n s C a s s rectori l hou e , i tere ting building where h rle I lept a f t h f o m fo n of e a o C . Sir o a s o ter b ttle r predy Th P pe , the u der

C f a n d C f u s S s a Trinity ollege , Ox ord , hie J tice crogg , the h nging

u n is a a n d n a of j dge , were bor here . The church l rge pri cip lly CHIEF TOWNS AND V ILLAGES 1 9 7

f o a o . a s m a a n o ou t o it s b el l the Dec r ted peri d C h rle I de c n n s. (pp

D orc h e st e r (9 44) is a sm a ll vill a ge ni n e m iles south - south

a s of fo n t h e s a ofa fa r- s a n e t Ox rd , o ce e t extending dioce e re chi g

f m T h m n il a a m s t o t e . C e s t o St Birin u s ro the h e Hu ber y g gr nted it ,

f Six s s fom a s o ss . 6 t o the po tle We ex bi hop ruled here r 34 7 0 6 .

D orc h e s t e r

In 8 6 9 it wa s a Merci a n see a n d five bi shop s ruled in succe ssion

n s a n d s 1 0 s s u til Lind ey Leice ter were joined with it , when bi hop held the see until the Norm a n bi shop Rem igius tr a nsferred the

a f s f n s o s t o . e t the bi hopric Lincoln A priory exi ted here , ou ded in 1 1 of w a s m n s is a n 0 s . 4 , which the pre ent church the i ter It

m a of a s extre ely interesting building princip lly the Decor ted tyle . 1 98 OXFORDS HIRE

h a s a a n o m a n fo a s a n d a ss It le de N r nt with c rved figure , Je e

o s o s n ofO u r o fom s m of wind w , h wing the de ce t L rd r the te

ss . . 6 8 1 0 2 1 1 2 1 1 1 6 2 Je e (pp 5 , 7 , , , 5 , ,

E n st on e which ta ke s it s na m e from the dol m e n c a lled

oa S on s f m s a s - sou - a s ofC n o on the H r t e , lie our ile e t th e t hippi g N rt .

t t o ofW om ou s s Th e I belonged the Abbey inchc be , Gl ce ter hire .

fi n w a s Wa W n ifor on a in 1 2 n e a t 8 . tithe b r built by lter de y , bbot 3

E w e l m e

Th e h a s a s a t o m son ofK e n u l h church curiou dedic tion , Kenel , p ,

Th w oa n Ki n g ofMerci a . e vill a ge a s a grea t c ching ce tre with ix S n s . in . (PP 9 9 ,

E w el m e (4 9 4) is l a very picture sque vill a ge between Wa tlington a n d Wa llingford with a gra n d group of old

s n s s of a m s s s a n d s building , co i ting church , l hou e , chool , erected

a m l a fS ffo in 1 H is a o 6 . by Willi de Pole , Duke u lk , 4 3 tr gic

200 OXFORDSHIRE

T In n a d is fa m . s a s n o s. bridge p n the river the rout u (PP 5 3 ,

G orin 1 1 is for t h e a ofit s s g ( 4 9) noted be uty river cenery , which h a s a ttra cted m a n y n ew residents a n d ca used t h e erection ofm a m n s T w a fo in s . s a n ny oder hou e here nu nery here , unded t h e of is a t o St T m a s a reign Henry II . The church dedic ted ho

a n d w a s s t h e s a s a a . . 2 8 0 8 Becket, u ed by nun ch pel (PP 7 , , 5 ,

H a n w ell ( 1 7 6) lies t w o a n d a h a lf m ile s north - we st of

a a n d h a s a fa m is a ll a m a s oft h e B nbury , r which th t re in

C a s of a n t h e o s of C s n tle H well , h u e the ope , erected by Antho y

Th e w a s u in t h e C ff t o n . ope , co erer He ry VII church b ilt

a n h a m thirteenth centu ry d s so e Decora ted work .

H a se l e Gre a t m s so - s of a m h a s y , (5 5 five ile uth we t Th e ,

m a s s fa m s C s been held by ny di tingui hed ilie , including Milo ri pin , t h e a ss s om a s s B ett , Roger Bigod , Th de Brotherton , the Bohun ,

Len t h a l l s. o n a w a s o a n d a so C s o the J h Lel nd rect r here , l hri t pher

W fa of a Th n . e ren , the ther the rchitect thirtee th century church

h a a s 1 I s som s s. . 1 1 6 . e good br e (pp 5 , )

H e a din g t on (3 6 9 6 ) with it s hill is well k n own t o Oxford

a oa is a a a m en a s a fa vou rite w lk . The r d celebr ted a s th t tr ver sed by the roy a li st ga rri son ofOxford when they m a rched ou t ofthe

’ a n o m A s ofa city d delivered it t C ro well s troop s. legend tell Student bei n g a tta cked here by a wild boa r a n d sa vi n g h is life by ’ a m m h is o of s o a m a s a sa n cr ing bo k Ari t tle down the ni l thro t , yi g

Gra c u m t s is sa t o a n t h e of s m e es . Thi id h ve bee origin the cu to ’ ’ ofbri n ging in the B oa r s Hea d on C hri stm a s Da y a t (Li c eu s

a s o th e a n College . At He dington there t od roy l hunti g lodge of n is m a m a n Sa xo king s. The church inly Nor with Perpendicul a r

n d a fi n n ss s a n s in t h a e s e a . tower , ixteenth ce tury cro t d churchy rd The Hea dington qua rries h a ve supplied m uch stone forthe building

oft h e f s. . 8 2 2 8 8 8 8 Ox ord college (PP , , 4 3 , 4 , 5 , , CHIEF TOWNS AND V ILLAGES 20 1

H e n l e is a fa o n on a m s n for it s y ir t w the Th e , oted

a a a n d for a ofit s s o n n n o oo Reg tt the be uty urr u di g eighb urh d .

a a ofC n a of m a n s h a d a a a Rich rd E rl or w ll , King the Ro , p l ce

e n here in t h reig ofHenry III . The m a nor pa ssed t o Edwa rd I

wh o a n t o s G a veston a n d a f h is n gr ted it Pier , ter executio it

a ss to Sir M ol e n s in s fa m m a for p ed John de y , who e ily it re ined

C u rc a n d R e d ion In n e n e h h , L , H l y

s m m a n d m a a a ss to f s a n d o e ti e , then by rri ge p ed the Hunger ord ,

a s s in h a s then t o Lord H ting the reign ofHenry VII . It since

s a a m n s ff m been held by ever l not ble e . The town u ered uch

C Wa r a n d Sir s wh o a t during the ivil , Bul trode Whitelock , lived

a C m a of a m a o F wley ourt , co pl ined bitterly the d ge d ne by the

h n n s s. C a s a n to t e oldier h rter were gr ted tow by He ry VIII , 202 OXFORDSHIRE

E z a a n d a n d is a m a o a n d li beth , George I , it governed by y r c o o a o n - a w a s in 1 on n o f rp r tion . The t w h ll built 7 9 5 the rth o t h e m a - fi a . n e s a n s in rket pl ce A bridge p the river , erected

1 8 6 in a ofa a s on w a s a 7 pl ce very e rly tructure , which the ch pel ofSt n i m a a a n d a A ne . The church s inly Decor ted Perpendicul r

fi n o Th h a s s a ol d n n s a s w a s a a e . e with t wer town ever l i , it

a in h a a s Th e n In n w a s in gre t centre t e co ching d y . Red Lio

I ffl e y C h u rc h

s in t h e m ofC a s wh o s a n exi tence ti e h rle I , t yed there with Pri ce

h a s h a d m a o . o a a n d s o Rupert It ny ther r y l illu tri us guests. “ ” ” ” ” Th e C a n W a a a n d theri e heel , White H rt , Bull , Be r

a r Broa d G tes a e other a ncient hostelries. The present tra de s oft h e n a re m a n a n d t h e m a of a s a n d tow lting , brewi g , king bo t

- T is a n fo . 1 2 2 a a s. s a n on . 8 6 p per b g here l o ir u dry (pp , , 3 , 7 ,

2 8 2 8 0 1 0 1 1 2 1 6 1 6 1 6 1 6 1 0 I 1 8 2 1 4 7 1 7 ) 7 7 > : 1 3 1 3 ) 3 7 4 1 7 ) 7 ) 7 3 ) )

20 4 OXFORDS HIRE

L a n l e m s - s ofW h a d a o a a a g y , five ile north we t itney , r y l p l ce or sa to a n a n d s hunting lodge , id h ve been built by King Joh , vi ited

m a s a n d s t h e of S a s by ny king queen until reign the tu rt .

M a pl e du rh a m a picturesque vill a ge on t h e Th a m es

a fa m s m a s m oft h e s w a s with ou nor hou e , the ho e Blount , which

Wa r h a s a besieged during the C ivil . The church Norm a n

a a of font a n d is m a inly Perpendicul r . The ch pel the Blounts is

a offf m s of . . 2 1 6 1 2 w lled ro the re t the church (pp 7 , 3 , 4 ,

M in st e r L ov ell t wo a n d a h a lfm ile s north - west of

h s s of m a o s of t h a e s . Witney , the ruin the n r hou e Lovell Reference h a s bee n m a de t o the sa d fa te of t h e l a st of the fa m T w a s a it s n a m n s ily . here priory here ; hence e Mi ter ,

i a a s a m a s a which s lw y connected with on tic house . Ne r the

a a re t h e Ch a rt ervil l e m s fou s vill ge Allot ent , nded by Fergu

’ c n t h e C a s a in 1 8 . s m fa O o nor , h rti t le der 4 7 The che e iled , but is n ow s ssf a n d s m a s s m s s ucce ul , o e l bourer upport the elve by

o s a s a n d a s. . 1 0 0 1 1 8 1 2 1 gr wing tr wberrie pot toe (pp 9 , 3 , 9 , , ,

N orth e i h m s o —a s of n h a s l g three ile n rth e t Wit ey ,

m a ofa n m a v il l a nea r it the re ins exten sive Ro n . (p .

Ot m oor is a desol a te region on t h e ea stern border oft h e s f m s s ofb o a n d m a n fed a hire , or erly con i ting g oorl d , which gre t i w fl o s of s . wa s a n a nd s n 1 8 0 ck gee e It dr i ed enclo ed 3 , hen wild

o s t h e " m a a u t a n d n s s ri ting en ued , eo nry were c lled o viole t cene

fr fo a s s a s f n 1 oo a a n d o . (pp . 2 t k pl ce , ur ye r di turb nce were reque t ,

O xford thi s does n ot include m em ber s of the

h e a s s s a n in a a on m s t . f Univer ity , l t cen u being t ke V c ti ti e) Ox ord , t h e ou n s t h e C a n d a m s c ty town , lie between river herwell the Th e

f is in s is or s s a n d a sm a a o . 6 m s I i , ll p rt it Berk hire It 3 ile f m on n a a n d s a in t h e a t it s m s ro L do by r il , lie centr lly county o t

is n o for it s a m it s con stricted pa rt . The city re wned ch r ; High CHIEF TOWNS AND VILLAGES 205

S i treet s held t o be on e ofthe m ost striking thoroughfa res of

a n d a re s s o s a a s Europe ; everywhere een churche , c llege , qu dr ngle a n d a a a s r p l ti l building which a e rem a rk a ble fortheir a rchitectur a l

a In a m s it s a be uty . e rly ti e geogr phic a l position a t t h e hea d ofa

a m a l a fa r fom n of gre t river rendered it i port nt , though it y r a y

i h S t re e for H g t , Ox d

m a a s a n d in om a m s a n o a n in the Ro n ro d , R n ti e c n t h ve bee

f da n t F ridesw ide a o exi stence . The oun tio ofthe nu nnery ofS b ut

w a in it 7 3 0 a s the e rliest event ofi m porta nce s hi story . It grew into prom inence t wo centuries l a ter when there wa s pea ce betwee n

ss a n d a it s s n a s it s f We ex Merci , pro perity bei g incre ed by ord a cross the Th a m es a n d t h e tra ffic a l on g the roa d lea ding from P u it in t h e u a a n e a d a e n C ol e e lp Q dr gl , M g l l g

I n t e rior: C h rist C h u rc h C a t h e dra l CHIEF TOWNS AND VILLAGES 209

M a gda len College (foun ded in 1 4 5 8) is t h e open pulpit in the

a a n O n e of a corner ofthe sm a ll qu dr gle . the e rliest pri n ti n g presses in Engl a n d wa s set up in the town ; a n d it s libr a ry wa s

a for it s a of s a n d m a n s s i celebr ted we lth book u cript . The D s solution ofm ona steries in the reign ofHenry VIII i n terfered m f n a s s uch with the progress o lea rning . Mo tic hou es throughout Engl a n d were a ccustom ed t o se n d poor schol a r s t o Oxford for their

T s a m ofst w a . s s a s a t o s o sn educ tion hi tre udent nce t pped . O ey ’ St F rideswide s o a s a n d s a o s s of a s Abbey , M n tery , ever l h u e the Fri r

s ss a n d a a s of s a were uppre ed , the v lu ble content the Univer ity Libr ry

n on o a t h e o s ofa s s o s were bur ed , the gr und th t b ok were uper titi u

a m a n f a . s o C a n ture However , the King co pleted the gre t de ig rdin l

o s in t h e f a of C s C a n d s W l ey ound tion hri t hurch , con tituted

fo a a a S fo o t h e a a n s n Ox rd C thedr l C ity . oon ll wed M ri per ecutio a n d n of m a s C a m a n d a m the bur ing the rtyr r n er , Ridley , L ti er . Oxford took a prom inen t pa rt in the C ivil Wa r in the seventeenth

w f a n a s a a s o C s . century , whe the city the he dqu rter h rle I It

h a d a a ff on for S a s a n d a o sm gre t ecti the tu rt , J c biti lingered long

fo h a s o ss m in n a s a n d h a s there . Ox rd pr gre ed uch rece t ye r ,

n it s a s to m a l l a ss s ofs o a s o ope ed g te wide welco e cl e ch l r , pr viding a n u a n s a of a s is ed c tio which , while pre erving the herit ge the p t ,

T a re n o m a fa s suita ble t o the need s ofm oder n li fe . here nu cture of m o a n or is m a s a s is on i p rt nce , there uch tr de except uch c nected

s of s a n d o n a a s with the upplying the Univer ity ther i h bit nt , the pl a ce ofl a te h a ving show n i n crea sing popul a rity a s a residen ti a l

o oo . n s ss o m o s a a neighb urh d The U iver ity Pre , h wever , e pl y l rge

m fm n a r 2 1 s a n d on e a a nu ber o e . There e College H ll with roll

ofa 0 0 0 a a s a n d a o 0 0 s n a d a s. bout 3 undergr du te , b ut 5 re ide t gr u te

2 8 I O 1 2 I 2 2 2 2 2 6 2 6 6 2 6 (PR 1 1 ) 1 4 ) 1 3 1 5 1 6 ) 1 3 1 5 1 7 1 7 3 1 7 5 1 7 1 7 7 1 — — T 8 0 8 8 8 8 2 1 2 1 1 I I I 6 1 2 2 1 8 1 4 1 5 ) 1 9 0 ) 9 ) 9 3 ) 0 ) 0 6 ) 0 8 4 ) 9 ’ 9 1 3 1

— - — — 1 1 1 6 1 1 6 1 1 2 1 1 8 1 8 2 1 8 6 44 , 4 5 5 9 , , 4 7 , 7 0 , 7 , 7 3 , 7 5 , , 4 ,

Roll righ t is fa m ous for it s rem a rka ble Ston e C ircle which — h 1 1 1 1 a s a a s . . 8 1 0 1 1 0 6 0 lre dy been de cribed (pp 9 , 9 , , , 1 4 210 OXFORDS HIRE

Rot h e rfi e l d Gre s a o of n y (3 3 3 7 , including porti n He ley town pa ri sh) derives it s na m e from the fa m ily ofGrey s wh o

n h a Th e a n a ofR oth rfi ld a ow ed t e c stle . djoini g vill ge e e Pepp rd

i a m fom t h a a m a a n d took t s n e r e ncient Pyp rd fa ily . The c stle

n ow court h a ve a lrea dy been de scribed (p . Th e property is

a fa m is m a a owned by the St pleton ily . The church inly E rly

h a s m s . s a n d . 6 Engli h work been uch re tored (pp 5 ,

R c ot e t wo m s s - so - s ofT a m h a d a y , ile we t uth we t h e , once

h m n ss z a nota ble m a n sion ow n ed by t e Norri s fa ily . Pri ce Eli beth w a s deta ined here under t h e gua rd ofLord Willi a m s during t h e

of s s a . C a s s a a t s rule her i ter M ry h rle I t yed the hou e , which

h a s n ow s . . 2 2 been de troyed (pp 7 , 9 ,

S h ipl a ke ( 8 7 0 ) is a bea utiful vill a ge on the Th a m es three

m a n w a h m iles south ofHe n ley . The or s held by t e Blunden

a m s a s a m a w a n d Plowden fa m ilie s. J e Gr nger who e n e g ve a n e — “ ” word t o t h e E n gli sh l a ngua ge th a t of Gra ngeri sing or extra — s a n o s w a s a a n d T s n w a s m a illu tr ti g b ok vic r here , enny o rried

In t h is som fi n in . e e a ss o the church church there e gl , br ught fom ofSt n a t St m n w a s s r the Abbey Berti O er , whe it de troyed

s s. . 8 8 0 by the French revolutioni t (pp 4 , ,

S h ip t on - u n de r- Wy c h w ood ( 2 6 8 6) is n oted for it s fi n e

u h a s a a a n d s s m a in s t o ch rch , which not ble tower pire i il r tyle

a i th ose of Oxford C a thedr l . It s m a inly E a rly Engli sh with

a o T a t wo a n som s s. re s e ixteenth century dditi n here ncie t inn , ” ” t h S o is a n the Red House a n d e C rown . hipton C urt

f h R a z a a n s f m t h e m o t e e des. A s Eli beth hou e , or erly ho e hou e c a lled the Preben da ry rec a ll s the fa ct th a t the town w a s form erly

f 1 1 1 2 1 2 2 a a t o t h e C a a o Sa s . . tt ched thedr l li bury (pp 3 , , ,

S om e rt on ( 2 6 5 ) is a vill a ge by the Cherwell seven m iles ’ n o - s of s a n d h a d a a s in S s rth we t Bice ter once c tle , erected tephen

n . 1 2 8 reig . (pp ,

W it n ey B u t t e r C ros s CHIEF TOWNS AND VILLAGES 213

s s R oss s for it s m a n a n d their bi hop , obert Gr ete te , gnifice t church

a Th a n s m of s o oss Prebend l ch a pel . e church ret i uch Bi h p Gr e

’ s s o a o 1 2 0 m a a a on s a te te w rk , erected b ut 4 , but ny lter ti h ve been

m a n n a n s m a n m on m n s of n s n so s. de si ce . It co t i y u e t i tere ti g per n

a m s wh o ou t oft h e s o s of a n d Lord Willi , grew rich p il the church ,

a T a m a a m m a S oo . n cquired h e Abbey , built Gr r ch l here Joh

in 1 1 1 1 1 a m n 6 . . 8 6 6 8 H pde died here 4 3 (PP , , 5 4 , 7 , 4 , 4 , 7 9 ,

1 8

Wa t l in g t on ( 1 5 5 4) is a n a n cie n t m a rket -town a n d h a s a very intere sti n g seve n teenth cen tury m a rket - h a ll in the centre

of o A a s s t h e l a the t wn . c tle exi ted here , built by De Beche

fa m in 1 8 b u t m a on m a n s. . 2 6 8 0 1 ily 3 3 , the o t ly re i (pp 3 , 4 , , 44 ,

Wh it c h u rc h (9 4 6) is a picture sque vill a ge on the ba n k of

t h e a m s s a n is n a Th e oppo ite P ngbour e , with which it co nected by

o . a re s a a s s in a w oden bridge There ever l l rge hou e the vill ge , a n d it is n ot di sfigured by rows ofugly cotta ges which h a ve

s on s s h a s n prung up the Berk hire ide . The church bee rebuilt ,

a s m n m on s m is but ret ins o e i tere sting br a ss m em ori a l s. A g t the

on e to m m ofSir T m a s Wa l sc h fo - a s t o t h e the e ory ho y , od t ter

a n n . 2 1 6 a a s s s a n d . (pp L nc tri overeig , Henry IV , V , VI 7 , 3 ,

Wit n e y is a flouri shing little m a rket -town on the

W n s a n i dru h celebr ted for it s m a n ufa cture of bl a kets. A

- a It s m os picturesque butter cross sta n d s in t h e m a rket pl ce . t interesting fea tures a re the church with it s thirteenth ce n tury

S a m m a S o fo in 1 6 6 a n d a of pire , the Gr r cho l unded 3 , the H ll the ’ a Th m a o w a Bl a nket We ver s C om pa n y erected in 1 7 2 1 . e n r s

n f m s s of n s wh o f n s ow ed or erly by the bi hop Wi che ter , o te re ided

in a fo a a in 1 0 8 0 s o Wa l kel in here rtified p l ce erected by Bi h p . It s na m e is proba bly derived from the Sa xon word ey m ea n i n g a n

s a n a n d Wit a n a n s n f n t h e a a i l d , , cou cil , ig i yi g pl ce where the Wit n — 1 4 3 214 OXFORDS HIRE — — it s m s. . 8 2 2 0 1 6 6 8 2 8 1 1 1 2 held eeting (pp , , 3 , 3 , , 7 , 7 7 , 3 , ,

Wol v erc ot e 6 6 is a a on t h e of f a (9 ) vill ge north Ox ord , ne r

h a s a a - m s God stow . It noted p per ill which produce the pa per f s s ss. (pp . 6 8 1 6 u ed by the Ox ord Univer ity Pre 5 5 , 7 , 5 , 4 ,

Woodst oc k a m a rket-town on t h e G lym e fa m ou s

for it s m a fa of s s it s f s o a m a nu cture glove , derive chie hi t ric l i port nce

f m t h e a n a a a a f m s a n d t o ro cient roy l p l ce th t or erly tood here , which

h a s f n m a T s a a h a s a a n reference requently bee de . hi p l ce pl yed

i s ofSir W im porta nt pa rt n Engli sh hi story . The lover a lter Scott a n d t h e rea der s of Woodst oc k will rem em ber the pr a nk s ofthe loya l serv a nt wh o sca red t h e Roundhea d com m i ssioner s a a ft h e o is n ot t . of s o o w y Much the tory n vel , however , true

m oft h old n s a t h hi story . So e pa rts e buildi g were t nding when e

a a of m w a s in t h e ss p l ce Blenhei building , but Duche Anne o h ruthlessly ordered them t o be pulled down . Allusi n a s a lrea dy

h m a n s of m been m a de t o t e gnificent but po derou pile Blenhei .

2 1 1 2 1 1 1 (pp . 1 0 6 6 8 8 0 8 8 8 0 0 6 6 0 , 5 , 7 , 7 , , 4 , , 9 , 9 , 9 , 7 , 3 , 4 , 7 , 1 7 3

Woot t on ( 1 0 2 7) is a sm a ll vill a ge t wo m iles from Blenhei m

a a G l m e is o it s a P l ce , where the river y j ined by tribut ry the

f m t o a n d a t Dom e . The rectory or erly belonged Bruern Abbey

ss ofm a s s w a s a sf t o C the Di olution on terie tr n erred New ollege ,

Oxford .

Wro t on a s a m s n - s of x , picture que vill ge three ile orth we t

f m a of s n a n m s a . B nbury The Abbey , or erly priory Augu ti i onk , is a fi n e a a n s in 1 6 1 8 Sir a m J cobe hou e erected by Willi Pope ,

ofSir m a s t h e f ofT n Co nephew Tho Pope , ounder ri ity llege ,

f wh o a a f ss n of Ox ord , obt ined the property ter the di olutio the

m o a s o s . . 1 2 2 1 1 n tic h u e (PP , 4 ,

21 6 OXFORDS HIRE

Oxfordsh ire 2 6 6 E n gl a n d a n d Wa l es 6 1 8 L a n c a sh ire 2 5 5 0

ia a m n om a a i F ig . 4 . D gr s h owi g c p r t v e D e n s i t y ofP op u l a t ion t o t h e S q u a re Mil e ( 1 9 1 1 )

(Ea c b dot represen ts ten person s)

F i P ro or on a t e r f t . e a s o C u g . 5 p ti A l iv a t e d a n d U n c u l t iv a t e d L a n d in Oxford s h ir e (1 9 0 9) DIAGRAMS 217

F n a a f i . 6 P ro o t io e e s o C e re a s P a st u re C o s g . p r t Ar l , , r p , W a n t in f oo s e c . or s ire 1 0 dl d , Ox d h ( 9 9 )

C orn C rop s a cre s

F i r a fC om C ro s c m a re w i h t a . e o o g 7 . A p p d t h t u n d e r ot h e r c ultiv a t ion in Oxford s h ire ( 1 9 0 9) 218 OXFORDS HIRE

F i 8 P ro o ion a e e a s ofC e e a s ow n g . . p rt t Ar r l gr in Oxford sh ire ( 1 9 0 9 )

- F i . P o o ion a e n u m ers of iv e st oc g . 9 r p rt t b L k in Oxford sh ire ( 1 9 0 9 )