Historic churches in Berkshire Buckinghamshire Oxfordshire experience the passing of time visitchurches.org.uk/daysout 3 absorb an atmosphere of tranquility Step inside some of the churches of the Thames Valley and the Chilterns and you’ll discover art and craftsmanship to rival that of a museum.
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The churches of the Thames Valley and the Chilterns contain some remarkable treasures. Yet sometimes it’s not the craftsmanship but the atmosphere that fires the imagination – the way windows scatter gems of light on an old tiled floor, or the peace of a quiet corner that has echoed with prayer for centuries. All the churches in this leaflet have been saved by The Churches Conservation Trust. The Trust is a charity that cares for more than 340 churches in England. This is one of 18 leaflets that highlight their history and treasures. dragon slayer For more information on the other guides in this series, fiery dragons and fearless saints as well as interactive maps and downloadable information, come alive in dramatic colour at see visitchurches.org.uk St Lawrence, Broughton 5
Lower Basildon, St Bartholomew 1 Berkshire A riverside church built by the people, for the people
• 13th-century church near a beautiful stretch of the Thames • Eight centuries of remarkable memorials This striking flint-and-brick church stands in a pretty churchyard by the Thames, filled with memorials to past parishioners and, in early spring, a host of daffodils. Jethro Tull, the father of modern farming, has a memorial here (although the whereabouts of his grave is unknown) and there is a moving marble statue of two young brothers drowned in the Thames in 1886. The church itself is simple and serene. The nave and south door were built in the 13th century, while the ornate roof timbers were installed in the 15th century, when parishioners grew rich from the local wool and corn trade. Inside, there are several stunning memorials, including brass effigies of John Clerk and his wife Lucie, both in Medieval costume. The 19th-century memorial for Sir Francis Sykes has a statue of a woman weeping, by John Flaxman, famous for a short life his Wedgwood designs.
Lower Basildon, Reading RG8 9NH immortalised 7m S of Wallingford off A329 touching intimacy contrasts with Nearest railway station: Pangbourne (2 miles) classical grandeur at All Saints Old Church, Keyholder nearby Nuneham Courtenay 2 4 East Shefford, Edlesborough, St Thomas St Mary the Virgin Berkshire Buckinghamshire Alabaster nobles A towered landmark and wall paintings with a gloriously in a rural idyll decorated interior This church, with pre-Norman origins, stands in an idyllic With its handsome 14th-century tower, St Mary’s is visible for spot beside a water meadow. It is full of simple craftsmanship, miles. Inside, it is a treasure house of delights, with Medieval glorious Medieval wall paintings and fabulous tombs. woodwork – including a complete chancel screen – and The alabaster statue of local noble Sir Thomas Fettiplace Victorian wall painting and stained glass. There are also carved lies alongside that of his wife and gives a rare glimpse of wooden misericords. These little ledges, for people to rest 15th-century fashion. Also look out for the lovely Norman font. on during long prayers, are decorated with fantastical carved creatures, including a stern-faced mermaid suckling a lion. East Shefford, Hungerford RG17 7EF 2m NE of M4 Junction 14, off A338 Church End, Edlesborough, Dunstable LU6 2EP (Wantage Road) at Great Shefford 5.5m S of Leighton Buzzard on A4146 Leighton Road Nearest railway station: Kintbury (5 miles) Nearest railway station: Leighton Buzzard (5.5 miles) Open daily Keyholder nearby visitchurches.org.uk/daysout
5 Nuneham 3 Courtenay, All Saints Broughton, Old Church St Lawrence Oxfordshire Buckinghamshire with us Spend a day A gentleman’s Stunningly detailed folly in a beautiful Medieval wall paintings Thames-side setting The rich Victorian stained glass of St Lawrence sheds its light This stunning classical church was built in the 1760s as part on one of the greatest Medieval treasures in the area – of the landscaped park for Nuneham Park House. With a a series of wall paintings. These exquisitely detailed pictures gleaming dome and six slender columns, it is as magnificent were rediscovered behind plaster during a restoration in 1849. as its setting overlooking the Thames. Inside, there are Italian They include the Virgin Mary cradling the body of Christ and fittings, magnificent memorial sculptures and busts. St George killing the dragon, despite having lost his head when the ceiling was lowered in the 15th century. Nuneham Park, Nuneham Courtenay OX44 9PQ 6m SE of Oxford off A4074, follow signs to Global Retreat Broughton Village, Milton Keynes MK10 9AA Centre (Nuneham Park) 1m S of M1 at Junction 14 off A5130 Nearest railway station: Oxford (6 miles) Nearest railway station: Woburn Sands (3 miles) Open daily. Please let staff at the Global Retreat Centre Keyholder nearby know you are visiting More churches to enjoy Thornton, St Michael & All Angels 11 Each CCT church has been saved because it is special. Located in beautiful parkland, this 15th-century church We can’t do justice to them all in one leaflet, so visit our website contains an outstanding brass with depictions of 16 kneeling children and 15th-century life-sized alabaster tomb figures. for more information on those only briefly described here. Thornton College, Thornton, Milton Keynes MK17 0HJ Berkshire 4m NE of Buckingham off A422 Key available from Thornton College Catmore, St Margaret 6 A small, 12th-century downland church. Inside it is harmonious and rustic, with cartwheel chandeliers and a flagstone floor. Oxfordshire Catmore, Newbury RG20 7HN Chiselhampton, St Katherine 12 8m N of Newbury and 7m SE of Wantage A lovely Georgian church, with original furnishings. Open daily John Betjeman honoured it in verse in 1952 and made a personal appeal for funds to support it. Woodlands, St Mary 7 Chislehampton, Oxford OX44 7XF This flint-and-stone church is a Gothic Revival gem. The lovely 7m N of Wallingford and 7 m SE of Oxford on B480 Victorian interior still has the brass coronas and candleholders Open daily. If locked keyholder nearby that would have bathed the interior in candlelight. Ermin Street, Woodlands St Mary, Hungerford RG17 7SR Mongewell, St John the Baptist 13 5m N of Hungerford and 2m S of Lambourn on B4000, A partial ruin, dating back to Norman times, in a picturesque near Junction 14 on M4 setting. It boasts an exotic sculptured tomb featuring ‘a man Keyholder nearby of sensibility’ reclining in Eastern costume and a turban. Mongewell, Wallingford OX10 8BU Buckinghamshire 2.5m S of Wallingford via A4074, in grounds of Mongewell Park Fleet Marston, St Mary 8
A pretty Medieval church in an isolated spot, simply and visitchurches.org.uk/joinus Open daily beautifully restored by Victorian architect Sir George Gilbert Scott. Methodist founder John Wesley preached here. Newnham Murren, St Mary 14 Fleet Marston, Aylesbury, HP18 0PZ A pretty flint church with Norman origins. Inside, limewashed walls set off delicate stained glass and handsome Jacobean 2m W of Aylesbury and S of Fleet Marston hamlet on A41 woodwork. Easily combined with a visit to Mongewell, above. Keyholder nearby Newnham Murren, Crowmarsh Gifford, Wallingford OX10 8BW 1m SE of Wallingford via A4074 Hartwell, The Church of the Assumption 9 A spectacular and romantic mid-18th century church in the Open daily
‘Gothick’ style. It has two towers and sits in the landscaped Become a supporter grounds of Hartwell House, now a luxurious country hotel. Shirburn, All Saints 15 Hartwell House, off Oxford Road, Lower Hartwell, Beautiful brasses, carvings and monuments in a slender- Aylesbury HP17 8NR towered estate church near 14th-century Shirburn castle. The north chapel is now the Macclesfield family mausoleum. 2m SW of Aylesbury on A418 Oxford road, in grounds of Hartwell House Hotel. Castle Road, Shirburn, Oxford OX49 5DL No visitor access to interior 1m NE of Watlington and 2m SW of M40 Junction 6 Keyholder nearby Pitstone, St Mary 10 A Medieval church on a hillside in the Chilterns. The appealing Wallingford, St Peter 16 interior contains a Norman font with handsome carving. A picturesque Thames-side landmark with an elegant spire. Church Road, Pitstone, Leighton Buzzard LU7 9HA The Georgian interior features a beautiful coffered ceiling. 9m E of Aylesbury Thames Street, Wallingford OX10 0BH Open May to Sep: Sun, 2.30pm-5.30pm; Wallingford town centre at other times keyholder nearby Key available from Tourist Information Centre Herma Ness
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8 4 11 A485 A44 CENTRAL A10 and CCT churches in adjoining counties. A361 A40 A479 A49 BEDFORDSHIRE A40 CARMARTHENSHIRE A465 Buckingham M11 A131 M50 A4 A421 A507 13 A6 A487 Our website, visitchurches.org.ukA449 , has much more A4146 St David’s Head A4069 M5 A505 A1124 A137 A detailedA466 information to help you plan your trip. A38 A435 A5 M1 A120 A4137 A4421 I A478 4215 BLAENAU Cheltenham Chipping The Naze A44 A4260 Bicester PEMBROKESHIRE A40 A424 Norton A602 A470 GWENT Ordnance Survey ref 4095 BUCKING- Luton A120 A40 A436 A H A120 A 133 A40 A483 A12 1 Lower Basildon, St Bartholomew SU 612 793 8 A418 4 A1(M) A48 A A34 HAMSHIREA41 G 10 A4146 A131 A40 A484 2 East Shefford, St Thomas (cover image) SU 391 747 A435 7 MERTHYR Aylesbury 06 A417 A40 Kidlington A1060 4 TYDFIL Burford HERTFORDSHIRE A130 A474 A465 A4136 A A 3 Broughton, St Lawrence SPA46 894 401 A4095 9 A413 TORFAEN 4075 A477 A4066 A414 A4076 A40 St Albans A10 4 Edlesborough, St Mary the Virgin SP 970 191 A429 Witney Oxford Thame A418 A A A476 GLOUCESTERSHIRE A40 A414 4 A415 4010 Princes A41 A465 A469 6 MONMOUTHSHIREA466 A414
M4 7 5 Nuneham Courtenay, All Saints Old Church SU 542 983 Risborough A38 A416 SWANSEA NEATH A48 A361 M25 A4139 6 Catmore, St Margaret SUA419 454 801 A4074 A40 ESSEX PORT TALBOT A417 A113 A130 A4042 Amersham A4135 12 A449 7 Woodlands, St Mary SU 334 749 5 High A1 A12 OXFORDSHIREAbingdon M1 Wycombe 4063 Stokenchurch Watford A A329 LONDON 7 8 Fleet Marston, St Mary SP 779 159 A1 10 A48 A433 M40 2 4 B 15 8 St Govan’s A483 A A419 Wallingford A355 M25 A127 A4118 9 M48Hartwell, The ChurchM5 of the Assumption SP 795 125 A338 A4061 A403 A420 Head A46 A429 Didcot 16 A470 A468 A417 A4130 Worms Head / A48 10 Pitstone, St Mary SP 942 150 Wantage A12 14 A41 M4 Swindon E F
Penrhyn-Gwyr A34 A10 M25 A473 11 Thornton, St Michael & All Angels SP 752 363 13 Henley- Maidenhead A40 THURROCK SOUTHEND-ON-SEA A Slough A13 M4 Goring 4 on-Thames M4 A48 1 6 0 A4 12 Chiselhampton, St Katherine SU 592 992 6 A346 7 A4232 A3102 3 C East Ilsley 1 4 M4 4 A 7 D M4 A48 13 Mongewell, St John the Baptist A420 SU 610 877 2 Reading A329 A330 A205 A228 Isle of M4 A2 14 Newnham Murren, St Mary A46 SU 610 885 A316 A342 Theale A20 Sheppey A4 A4 Hungerford A4 Bracknell North Foreland 15 Shirburn, All Saints SU 696 959 A4 A4 A321 A24 A232 A249 A299
A228 16 Wallingford, A37St Peter SU 609 895 A346 Newbury Thatcham A322 M25 A38 BERKSHIREA327 M3 M20 A290 A370 A338 A227 A28 A340 A2
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A368 A3 A251 For details, go to visitchurches.org.uk or see the © Crown Copyright 2012 MEDWAY A342 A34 A25 relevant county guide. A33 M25 A366 SURREY A20 A252 A371 A37 Other local heritage attractions G Waddesdon Manor A25 A256 A345 A2 A39 WILTSHIRE A343HAMPSHIRE A360 A287 A274 M20 A Blenheim Palace A339 H Ascott House and garden A28 A367 A217 Lundy A338 A21 A39 A229 A361 B Didcot railway centre I Claydon House A25 A24 A22 M5 A303 A228 South Foreland A287 A31 M23 A260 A258 A3123 A39 A36 C Ashdown House J Stowe Landscape Garden A20
A399 A39 A39 A350 M3 KENT A361 A361 D Basildon Park A343 A29 A39 A38 A281 A A33 A264 A39 A272 www.english-heritage.org.uk 359 A325 A E Grey’s CourtA338 3 A262 A28
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8 A30 7 A2070 A A303 F Stanley Spencer Gallery 371 A3 A268 A361SOMERSET A31 A283 A26 A259 A372 A32 A29 Hartland Point A272 A21 A39 A303 A30 A286 A361 A338 A27 A3090 A272 A 272 A354 A36
A A265 A3 A378 WEST SUSSEX A30 A303 A359 281 58 A39 A24 A275 A23 A28 A350 A283 A357 M27 A22 Dungeness A386 A3124 A259 A273 EAST SUSSEX A388 A377 A38 A285 A3 A26 A271 M5 A303 A30 030 A354 A286 A283 A326 M27 A3(M) A29
A37 A31 A27 A27 A337 A396 DORSET A27 A35 A27 A22 A27 2 A352 07 A373 A356 3 A350 A3072 A A259 A3066 A32 A3072 A30 M275 A358 A35 A388 A3079 A354 A31 A39 A30 A35 A35 52 Beachy Head A30 30 A35 A375 A Selsey Bill A376 Foreland A395 DEVON A352 A351 A39 A382 A379 A353 The A386 A354 Isle of Purbeck Needles A30 A38
A380 CORNWALLA388 St Aldhelm’s St Catherine’s A389 or Point A379 St Alban’sHead A38 90 A39 A3 Portland
A381 A386 Bill A392 A30 A385
A391 A387 A3058 A38 A3075 A3122 A379 A3121 A30
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A390 A381
A393 A30 A379 A3074 A39 A3078 Start Point
A39 A3071
A394 A30 Land’s ISLES OF SCILLY End A3083 Tresco St Martin’s Bryher A3110 ISLES St Mary’s OF Lizard Point St Agnes SCILLY Find out more Welcome to a thousand Our website has a host of additional information years of English history that will help you plan and enjoy your visit, including: • Interactive maps The Churches Conservation Trust is the national • Filterable lists of all our churches charity protecting historic churches at risk. • Up to date opening times We’ve saved over 340 beautiful buildings • Visitor comments which attract more than 1.5 million visitors a year. • Downloadable guides With our help and with your support they are • Image galleries kept open and in use – living once again at the heart of their communities. • Event listings Go to visitchurches.org.uk to access all this and more. Visiting information Go to visitchurches.org.uk for detailed directions, local maps, information on disability access and up to date opening times. For other enquiries, call us on 020 7213 0660 (Monday – Friday, office hours), or [email protected] Please take care when visiting our churches. Floors may be uneven/worn or slippery, and interior lighting may be low.
Assistance dogs are welcome. For full disabled access information, see our website. Unsure about the ‘keyholder nearby’ access? You will find details at the church or call us in advance. Parking is available at most churches – see the website for more details.
The closest station for each church is shown in the guide. For bus routes, see traveline.org.uk Cyclists welcome! For cycle routes, go to sustrans.org.uk Help us save historic churches The CCT needs to raise an additional £1.5million every year just to cover essential repairs. If you enjoy your visit please leave a donation at the church, or go to visitchurches.org.uk/donate for details of how you can help.
Become a fan visitchurches.org.uk facebook.com/ChurchesConservationTrust The Churches Conservation Trust Follow us 1 West Smithfield, London EC1A 9EE twitter.com/TheCCT Registered Charity No: 258612 © CCT 2011