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PAGE 2 THE EXPONENT, FALL RESTAURANT GUIDE, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 19, 2017 THE EXPONENT, FALL RESTAURANT GUIDE, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 19, 2017 PAGE 3 Easy spaghetti dinner By Michael Austin in 1/4 cup olivada (aka notes of herbs and olives, Chicago Tribune tapenade, aka olive paste); plus ripe red fruit. The savory (TNS) top with 1/2 cup Gorgonzola aromas will boost the savory When a dish has plenty cheese crumbles. Makes: 6 elements of the olives and of richness of its own, such servings cheese in the dish, and the as this pasta with olives and combination of fruit and Gorgonzola, take care to pick DRINK THIS herbs will enhance the dish’s a wine without too much Pairings by sommelier richness. The wine’s lovely richness — such as this novel Alan Beasey of The Purple acidity will tie everything white from Italy, a rare red Pig, as told to Michael Aus- together. from Greece and a classic red tin: 2014 Altesino Rosso di from Italy. All of them will 2013 Velenosi Villa Altesino, Tuscany, Italy: stand up to the dish without Angela Pecorino, Marche, This quintessential Tuscan pushing the flavors over the Italy: Made of 100 percent blend of sangiovese, merlot top. pecorino (yes, it’s a grape and and cabernet sauvignon ——— a cheese), this white wine has silky tannins and a rich MAKE THIS SPAGHETTI has aromas of yellow flowers, texture, plus ripe, plummy WITH OLIVADA AND stone fruit and subtle herbs, fruit tempered with subtle GORGONZOLA plus a crisp brininess that will earthiness and tangy acidity. Cook 1 pound spaghetti accentuate the salty, savory It will showcase the flavors of in a large pot of well-salted olivada and cheeses. Flavors savory olives and rich cheese boiling water until al dente; of ripe golden apple and in the dish, without being too drain. Return pasta to pot. apricots will also contribute heavy. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons balance. ——— extra-virgin olive oil; toss. 2014 Douloufakis Dafnios, ©2017 Chicago Tribune Sprinkle with 1/2 cup grated Crete, Greece: This powerful When the food is rich, pick a wine that’s not too rich itself. Parmesan cheese; toss. Stir yet elegant red wine offers (Dreamstime/TNS PAGE 4 THE EXPONENT, FALL RESTAURANT GUIDE, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 19, 2017 FDA takes ‘love’ out Farm to table grows of bakery’s granola in popularity Farm-to-table is a movement establishments can benefit the By David J. Neal that promotes serving local planet, but consumers should Miami Herald products, preferably food and know that there are additional beverages acquired directly advantages to patronizing such (TNS) – Among the myriad problems the FDA listed after in- from a producer. businesses. specting Nashoba Brook Bakery’s manufacturing facility: Love in Farm-to-table eateries source • Support for local businesses: the granola. Deep in a Sept. 22 warning letter by Food and Drug ingredients locally as much Local restaurateurs who Administration to the Concord, Massachusetts, manufacturer is as possible, and diners are in- embrace farm-to-table can sup- this admonishment: “Your Nashoba Granola label lists ingredient creasingly expressing a prefer- port and promote other local ‘Love.’ Ingredients required to be declared on the label or labeling ence for these establishments. operations. Restaurants can of food must be listed by their common or usual name [21 CFR According to the National Res- help farmers by purchasing taurant Association’s “What’s excess crops or simply provid- 101.4(a)(1). Hot in 2015” survey, locally ing the demand for farmers’ ‘Love’ is not a common or usual name of an ingredient, and is sourced meats and seafood, products. considered to be intervening material because it is not part of the locally grown produce, envi- • Greater control over ingredi- common or usual name of the ingredient. ronmental sustainability, and ents: In some instances, chefs Nashoba Chief Executive Officer John Gates told Bloomberg natural ingredients/minimally can travel to nearby farms dur- that particular part of the FDA’s letter “just felt so George Or- processed foods were among ing harvest to personally select w e l l .” the most popular food trends. items for their restaurants, “I really like that we list ‘love’ in the granola,” Gates told Farm-to-table establishments ensuring excellent quality. Bloomberg on Tuesday. “People ask us what makes it so good. reduce carbon footprints by • Better taste and quality: It’s kind of nice that this artisan bakery can say there’s love in it cutting back on the amount of Fresh food is picked at its peak and it puts a smile on people’s face. Situations like that where the resources necessary to get food instead of being forced to ripen government is telling you you can’t list ‘love’ as an ingredient, from the farm to the restaurant. during a long journey. This because it might be deceptive, just feels so silly.” The farm-to-table movement typically translates to more (c)2017 Miami Herald began as a countermeasure to flavorful foods. big agriculture and chemically • Evolving and updated menus: controlled produce. Although Because farm-to-table means there is no hard data on just sourcing in-season ingredients, how many restaurants can be restaurants must have fluid considered farm-to-table, or- menus that change based on ganic farming in general is big the availability of ingredients business. In its 2014 Organic and fishing and harvesting Survey, the U.S Department of quotas. This can lead to greater Agriculture’s National Agricul- variety and prevent menus ture Statistics Service reported from becoming dated or overly that sales of organic products familiar. increased by 72 percent since Hyper-local sourcing that 2008. California, Washington, fuels farm-to-table operations Pennsylvania, Oregon, and continues to be an in-demand Wisconsin were the top five restaurant trend. Diners can states for organic farming, ac- rest easy knowing that patron- counting for 78 percent of or- izing such establishments ganic sales in the United States benefits both the environment at the time of the survey. and the local economy. Supporting farm-to-table THE EXPONENT, FALL RESTAURANT GUIDE, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 19, 2017 PAGE 5 Cuban restaurant returns after hurricane By Mimi Whitefield a hellish week after Irma passed. buy another in a store, it’s very the beach resort of Varadero was Miami Herald Irma’s winds weren’t that strong expensive. They’ve lost furniture, open for business. Despite some HAVANA (TNS) – Stretches in the capital but the water began sound systems,” said an electrical technical difficulties, a young of the famed Malecon boulevard rising Sept. 9 and pushed about linesman. “What we have recov- man riding on an open-top tour- are still closed for repairs and a third of a mile inland into ered are electricity, telephone ism bus pointed out the beach, seaside businesses show the scars low-lying neighborhoods and service, but I think there are the turquoise water, the sun of 30-foot waves that crashed adjoining towns. other countries and Puerto Rico and other attractions that have through the seawall during Hur- There was no electricity, that are worse off than we are. reopened. ricane Irma. scarcely any cooking gas, water We’re more or less.” But Havana and Varadero But tourists have returned shortages and businesses whose Within a week of the storm, didn’t feel the brunt of Irma’s to the capital, even as areas hit interiors floated away. The Fifth power and telephone service fiercest winds. The hurricane hard by the storm continue to Avenue tunnel was completely resumed in Havana. And tourists made landfall along Cuba’s north struggle. flooded, neighborhood streets are starting to trickle back in. central coast in Cayo Romano In the seaside town of Jai- were coated with a mixture Evidence of a potential come- as a Category 5 storm and it manitas, west of Havana, three of mud and sand, and many back for the tourism industry tore through Cayo Coco and Niuris Higueras Martinez gives her daughter, Ysabella Cabeiro vintage red convertibles dropped buildings had a strange mottled was apparent in recent days. the Jardines del Rey area where appearance where the water had Norwegian Cruise Lines’ Nor- beachside resorts attract interna- Higueras a big hug inside their Havana restaurant, Atelier. The res- a group of tourists at the fanciful taurant suffered some wind damage and minor flooding from the mosaic-encrusted home of artist washed away layers of paint. wegian Sky was in port, a group tional visitors. It took two days for the water of Europeans on an island bike About 5,000 tourists, as well wind and storm surge from Hurricane Irma’s outer bands. Atelier Jose Fuster and merchants on reopened two weeks after the storm. (Emily Michot/Miami Herald/TNS) the block sold coconut water, to recede, but then the govern- tour pedaled down the Malecon as the dolphins from a local wooden statues and other sou- ment authorities, along with unimpeded by traffic and guests attraction, were evacuated from venirs. residents and business owners, were back at the lobby bar of the the northern keys. In all, 1.7 taxi drivers to private restaurant Wave). Just blocks away, 53-year-old hit the streets. They cleaned, san- waterfront Melia Cohiba hotel. million Cubans were evacuated owners, were eager for things to “A senora called Irma came Alberto Sanchez Borges stood itized and repainted. Entrances The high water never reached and there were 10 storm-related get back to normal. and that was the end of it. She in the shell of his home. Irma to tunnels that looked like swim- the 5-star Gran Hotel Manzana deaths reported.

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