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A Coasting Voyage from Hammersmith to Copenhagen in a Three-Ton Yacht

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•'mi ^A ^1^^"^:=; '.$' ON THE >..* ;^ ^v <''*!^ I r*.', 6 V 450 The "falcon" ON THE BALTIC JVORKS B V THE SAME A UTHOR Crown S\o, 3.f. 6d. WHERE THREE EMPIRES MEET: A Narrative of Recent Travel in Kashmir, Western Tibet, Baltistan, Ladal<, Gilgit, and tiie adjoining Countries. Witli a Map and 54 Illustrations. Crown 8\o, 3J. 6d. THE CRUISE OF THE "ALERTE'^: The Narrative of a Search for Treasure on the Desert Island of Trinidad. \'\'ith 2 Maps and 23 Illustra- tions. Crown 8vo, 2.s. td. RHODESIA OF TODAY: A Description of the Present Condition and the Prospects of Mata- beleland and Mashonaland. Crown 8vo, -js. 6d. THE CRUISE OF THE "FALCON": A Vo)'age to South America in a 30- Ton Yaciit. With Maps and Illustrations. WATER-TOWER AT HOORN. The cc Falcon" ON THE Baltic A COASTING VOYAGE FROM HAMMERSMITH TO COPENHAGEN IN A THREE-TON YACHT BY E. F. KNKiHT AUTHOR OF "WHERE THREE EMPH^ES ^^;ET," ETC. WITH MAP, AND ILLUSTRATIONS BY ARTHUR SHEPHARD NEW EDITION LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. LONDON', NEW YORK, AND BOMBAY 1896 Ail rights reserved Printed hy Eallantv'ne, Hanson & Co. At the Baliantyne Press CONTENTS CHAP. PAGE I. I GET A NEW BOAT I II. THE XEW BOAT LEAKS III. ACROSS THE NORTH SEA 33 IV. FROM ROTTERDAM TO .AMSTERDAM 57 V. ON THE ZUIDER ZEE . 81 VI. TO THE DOLLART 108 Vn. THE FRISIAN ISLANDS . VIII. FROM THE JADE TO THE EIDER IX. KIEL B.W .... 172 X. THE FIORDS OF SCHLESWIG . 191 XL THE LITTLE BELT AND VEILE FIORD XII. ACROSS THE GRE.\T BELT . -'36 XIII. THE KATTEG.\T AND ISE FIORD XIV. GILLELIE AND THE SOUND 282 XV. COPENH.\GEN AND HOME 20711tj:i LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Water Tower at Hoorn. Frontispiece Approach to the Island of Ukk . To face page loi North Shore of Eckernforde Fiord 192 201 Village of Slieby .... ,, Village of Horup Hav . ,, 210 Veile 243 Village below Tirsbalk and entranc: TO Fiord of Veile >> 246 Seiero Island and Lighthouse 257 Lighthouse on Nakke Head . 294 Kronberg Castle, Elsinore . 303 Track Map, North Sea . 30S — THE "FALCON" ON THE BALTIC CHAPTER I. I GET A NEW BOAT. In the summer of '86 I was without my favourite toy, a yacht, and had no intention of purchasing a vessel. I had just returned from a winter cruise about the Spanish Main and through the West Indies, and any voyage more extensive than, a boating expedition on the upper Thames was quite out of my mind, when I by chance came across a boat lying at Hammersmith of all unlikely places— which appeared to me to be singularly adapted for the realisation of one of my earliest yachting dreams. For many years I had talked of visiting the Baltic in a small yacht, and I had often taken up the charts and pilot-books of that tideless sea and planned plea- sant cruises among the deep winding fiords and narrow 2 THE "FALCON" ON THE BALTIC. sounds of the Danish islands; and now I saw before me the very boat for the purpose. "The smaller the yacht the better the sport," is a maxim which, in my opinion, holds good in most waters, but especially so when a cruise on the Baltic is in question. For on all the shores of that sea, even where the map indicates long straight stretches of iron- bound coast, there are innumerable small artificial havens which have been constructed by the herring fishermen for the accommodation of their shallow craft; and again, on many of the islands, the only harbours are those affording shelter to the ferry-boats which ply to the mainland—harbours, as a rule, having no more than three feet of water. Therefore small yachts only can visit these out-of- the-way spots. A cruise among the islands affords some of the fascination of a voyage of discovery ; at many of them sea-going vessels never call ; and as all the English yachts that enter the Baltic are of consi- derable tonnage, the English yachtsman knows but little of the charms of the best cruising-ground in Europe. The Baltic is a treacherous sea ; settled weather can never be depended on, gales spring up very unex- pectedly, and a nasty sea rises quickly on its shallow waters. But a little yacht following the coast has nearly always some snug harbour to run for should bad weather come on; whereas a larger craft with deeper draught must needs stand out to sea and make the best of it she can. I GET A NEW BOAT. 3 The small yacht is certainly the one for the Baltic, but to get her there is a somewhat difficult task. To arrive at the mouth of the river Eider, whence the Baltic can be reached by canal, involves a voyage across the North Sea and a lengthy cruise along the coast of Holland and Germany. Unless the yachts- man has exceptional luck with his weather this journey is likely to cause him a considerable amount of anxiety : for the east coast of the North Sea, with its dangerous shoals, tumbling seas, and lack of harbours to run for, is certainly the last the skipper of a small yacht would select for a pleasure cruise. But once let him reach the mouth of the Eider and he will be more than com- pensated for his preliminary difficulties and hardships. The yacht at Hammersmith possessed two qualities not usually found together. She was of very light draught and yet she was an excellent sea-boat. She drew something under three feet, and so could enter the shallowest Danish boat-harbour. With her if I saw a port before me 1 could run in boldly, not needing a pilot, and without troubling my head about the depth of water ; for, where any other boat had gone before, mine was able to follow. She also looked like a craft that would put up with a good deal of heavy weather, and could be trusted to carry one safely across the North Sea. I saw that she was, in short, the very vessel I required; so I came to terms with her owner, and soon found that I had no reason to be disappointed with my bargain. The Falcon—for so I named her after niv former 4 THE "FALCON'' ON THE BALTIC. vessel—was an old P. and O. lifeboat, and had doubt- lessly made raany a voyage to India and back ou a steamer's deck. As is the way with lifeboats, her bow and stern were alike, and she had far more sheer than is ever given to a yacht. She had been built in the strongest manner by the well-known lifeboat builder, White, of Cowes. She was double-skinned, both j^kins being ot the best leak, the outer of hori- zontal, the inner of diagonal, planking. The gentleman from whom I bought her had con- verted her into a yawl, or, to be more correct, a ketch, for her mizen-mast was well in-board, so that her mainsail was smaller and her mizcn larj^er than is the case with yawls (an advantage as far as handiness is concerned). The water-tight compartments had been taken out of her, a false keel had been fastened on, and she had been decked all over with the exception of a small well. There was no appliance for covering over this well in bad weather, but I have never seen a pint of water tumble into it, so buoyant and admirable a sea-boat did the little vessel prove to be. The Fa/con is jury-rigged ; too much so indeed, her s))ars and sails being rather too small. Her mainmast lowers on a tabernacle, a system which I do not like for sea-Avork, but which proved useful on the Norfolk broads. She is twenty-nine feet long and of three tons register. When I bought her, the season was so far advanced that I had to postpone my Baltic expedition until the following summer ; but I made a pleasant trial cruise / GET A NEW BOAT. 5 in her down our east coast and on the broads and rivers of Norfolk. I succeeded in exploring all the portions of those inland waters which are practicable to a yacht of three- feet draught ; but, as might be expected from so long and shallow a boat, she was slow in stays and ill- adapted for the narrow streams beloved of the East Anglian yachtsman. This cruise over, the Falcon was brought back to Hammersmith, and during the winter all Avas got ready for her Baltic voyage. So strong are lifeboats when built on this diagonal system that it is considered unnecessary to timber them ; but when one of them is converted into a yacht and it is intended to subject her to the great strain of rigging, it becomes advisable to place some timbers into her, especially under the channel plates. So 1 had seven stout timbers put in on either side, and, among other improvements, a strong oak rubbing-piece was carried round her, a new and larger rudder "fitted on. and a stout rail placed on her bulwarks. After all this, built as she was of im- perishable wood and copper-fastened, she seemed as safe a little vessel as a sailor's heart could desire. Her cabin was a spacious one for a boat of her ton- nage. There was not much head room in it, but I do not hold, as some do, that to be able to stand up in one's cabin is an essential on a small yacht.
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