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HAVANA BY DAYLIGHT AND MOONLIGHT. All-inclusive, round-trip cruises from Miami and Orlando to Cuba with an overnight in Havana. By foot or vintage car, discover something new in Old Havana, including the Savor incredible moments on board, from nightly entertainment Spend your night ashore strolling Old Havana. Take in the baroque iconic Capitol, the former Cuban congress. Visit where Hemingway penned to a variety of delicious cuisine. cathedral, historic Fountain of the Lions and more, just steps away The Old Man and the Sea. And try your hand at cigar rolling. from your ship. Cruise from Havana to cabana at our private island in the Bahamas, Great Stirrup Cay. Snorkel in crystal-blue waters, kayak along the shore or simply fl oat in a sheltered lagoon. Experience the sultry rhythms, weathered beauty and rich traditions of Cuba on an unforgettable cruise with Norwegian Cruise Line. Spend the night in Havana and immerse yourself in the people and culture of this fascinating island nation. Marvel at contemporary Cuban art from the 19th and 20th centuries. Then enjoy a sunset stroll in historic Old Havana at your leisure, thanks to no fi xed dining times or pre-assigned seating. As you cruise from Cuba to our private island in the Bahamas, Great Stirrup Cay, savor incredible moments on board from a variety of delicious cuisine to amazing entertainment to Free Unlimited Open Bar. It’s all-inclusive — and all yours to discover. CALL YOUR TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL OR 1.888.NCL.CRUISE OR VISIT NCL.COM Norwegian offers OFAC-compliant cruises and shore excursions with Another round of mojitos? Yes, please. Enjoy Free Unlimited Open Bar on Norwegian is the only cruise line offering 4-day round-trip cruises from ©2017 NCL Corporation Ships’ Registry: BAHAMAS and USA 35298 9/17 so many opportunities to immerse yourself in the rich culture of Cuba. board Norwegian Sun and Norwegian Sky and on shore while relaxing at Miami and Orlando with an overnight in Havana. Great Stirrup Cay. EDITOR´S LETTER My Grandmother’s BEANS What people in each country eat says a great deal about their locals. We Cubans have a complex and central relationship with food. Our lives re- volve around eating because of the many years of hard work involved in getting provisions. Feeding every day the family has aroused an imagi- PRESIDENT HUGO CANCIO nation that borders on magic, frequently on madness. However, there’s always food at our parties, birthdays, celebrations and during all the [email protected] pleasant times, food is frequently the central theme, or the pretext. We share our food like the most prized treasure and, no matter how little there is, if you get to a Cuban friend’s home at suppertime (even if you EDITORIAL DIRECTOR TAHIMI ARBOLEYA haven’t been invited), he will share with you what he has, he’ll just have to “add some water to the soup.” [email protected] This edition of OnCuba Travel is about food. EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR ARIEL MACHADO When I think about the subject, my grandmother Elena’s black beans [email protected] immediately come to my mind. She used to live in the countryside, more or less 40 minutes from Havana. My parents, my sister and I used to go see her on Sundays; I used to spend the entire trip thinking of the plate SALES DIRECTOR of black beans that was invariably waiting for me. The best black beans JORGE RUIZ in the world! [email protected] To accompany them there could be pork, or chicken, and if things were bad: eggs. When it got “really bad,” just rice, but those beans that never DESIGN & LAYOUT PATRICIO HERRERA VEGA stopped smelling of bay leafs, cumin and “ají cachucha” peppers were always present. PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR JORGE LUIS BORGES The best of the desserts was the guava preserves with white cheese which she used to make herself. My grandfather had a small farm with two or three cows that could only be used to produce milk, therefore COPYEDITING CHARO GUERRA grandmother made everything she could with it: white cheese, butter and…the caramel spread! TRANSLATION Food is so linked to our memories that we Cubans dedicate a great deal MERCEDES GUILLOT of our conversations to it. My father says we are probably the only hu- man beings on the planet who talk about the next meal while we eat. WEB EDITOR CUBA MÓNICA RIVERO Today Cuban food is varied. We don’t eat the same thing at home as in [email protected] the restaurants, or in the city as in the countryside, or in the east, the center or the west of the country. Gourmet and Cuban cuisine take up special places in the hundreds of paladares scattered across the island…. The smells and flavors start being different. For mi, still, each self-respecting Sunday has to smell of black beans with cumin. ON THE COVER: Restaurant La Bodeguita del Medio / Photo: Patricio Herrera Vega Articles may be reproduced, in whole or in part, as long as the source is cited. Reproduction of photographs without the editor’s permission is prohibited. Any views or opinions expressed are those of the articles’ authors, and do not necessarily reflect the views of OnCuba. Tahimi Arboleya Editorial Director > OnCuba and the OnCuba logo are registered® trademarks of Fuego Enterprises, Inc., its subsidiaries or divisions. > OnCuba Travel is a trademark™ of Fuego Enterprises, Inc., its subsidiaries or divisions. > Oncuba Travel a publication of Fuego Media Group, a division of Fuego Enterprises, Inc., a publicly traded company (FUGI). > OnCuba © 2012 by Fuego Enterprises, Inc. All Rights Reserved. 46 CONTENTS ONCUBA TRAVEL MAGAZINE CUBA WITH CHRISTOPHER BAKER CUBA WONDER Five Quintessential Cuban Food Stories: Cuban Experiences A Movie Trip That Most Visitors MILENA RECIO Miss (But Shouldn’t) Who wouldn’t have sufficient curiosity to undertake a trip to their roots? Especially CHRISTOPHER BAKER if it’s about recognizing, after the culinary Once you’ve strolled the cobbled plazas of customs that persist in remote and diverse Habana Vieja and toured Havana in a quaint places of the island, the identity of the convertible classic, it’s time to experience profound Cuba. a slice of life a lo cubano—like a Cuban. So, change some of your CUCs for moneda nacional and feel like a local. PAG. 14 PAG. 26 PERSPECTIVE MADE IN CUBA Gastronomy in Cuba, Memories of Notes for a Story My Tentempiés: Fortunes and Misfortunes of Contingency Food ALICIA GARCÍA Writing about gastronomy in Cuba is a pending subject. There ALICIA GARCÍA In Cuba contingency food has been a constant in diverse are researches, articles, diverse cooking books, but it isn’t historic periods of the nation. The generations born in enough. With these notes I am motivating readers and profes- the 1960s and ’70s particularly to a certain point have sionals from the sector to systematize and study in depth an sui generis limited eating habits and tastes due to the essential space of Cuban heritage: its gastronomy and food established form of living during the process of the 1959 culture.. Cuban Revolution. PAG. 20 PAG. 30 TESTIMONY ECONOMY & BUSINESS 2017. Heading Back to Cuba Tourism in Cuba for the Third Time, But RAFAEL BETANCOURT it Felt Like the First Tourism is the Cuban economy’s locomotive – it is still YVONNE & running, but the number of wagons it has to pull and the speed it has been forced to maintain is concerning. YVETTE RODRÍGUEZ We invite you to join us on our adventures. Boosted by cruise tourism and the arrivals of travelers For those that have never visited the from the United States, the country is committed to the island, the rumors are true: Cuba is the vitality of the tourist industry, not just because of its gem of the Caribbean. economic importance but also political. PAG. 34 PAG. 54 ART & CULTURE LIGHT AND SHADOWS Edel Rodríguez: Sosabravo: The Designer Who Dedication and Love for Draws Trump Is Cuban Cuban Culture TAHIMI ARBOLEYA ESTRELLA DÍAZ Ever since Donald Trump postulated himself as a presiden- Every day, before taking a brush in his hand to stand in front tial candidate he has been present in the press worldwide. of the canvas, Sosabravo establishes a secret dialogue with However, his most impacting graphic image has come his garden, which he carefully tends to. That relationship with out of the imagination and the hands of a U.S. immigrant, a the environment, in many ways in his works, overflows with Cuban-American artist. light, color, happiness and optimism but, above all, a rooted and deep Cubanness. PAG. 40 PAG. 58 PHOTO FEATURE ONCUBA SUGGESTS Cuba in Depth El Biky, WANDA CANALS a Gastronomic Experience I’m from Havana and I don’t think I exaggerate when I affirm that there aren’t many places that seduce the camera more than Havana; however, the Cuba in CECILIA CRESPO its purest and most heterogeneous, realistic and magical essence can be felt El Biky is an atypical non-agricultural cooperative that provides multiple gastronomic in its countryside. To get to know Cuba you have to launch yourself head-on services. It will be celebrating its first three years in November and the long lines in its into its depths and if we have a camera at hand, the better. doorway speak of its undeniable and sustained quality. OnCuba visited all and each one of its areas, up to its huge kitchen. PAG. 46 PAG. 62 CONTRIBUTORS CHRISTOPHER BAKER ALICIA GARCÍA MILENA RECIO RAFAEL BETANCOURT TAHIMI ARBOLEYA WANDA CANALS ESTRELLA DÍAZ CECILIA CRESPO Travel journalist, photographer, author, The admiration for my father – founder of the Master’s in Communication Doctor in Economic Sciences Master’s in Communication Philologist by profession, I have reached My great-grandfather was a lighthouse keeper There are times when I talk nonstop, although I adventure motorcyclist, tour leader, romantic famous Rancho Luna and El Aljibe restaurants, I am still perplexed about the course of my At dawn I place my laptop in my backpack and I like to listen.
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