#NaturalParadise #preromanesque #caveart #UNESCO #museums #festivals Edit: soCIedad PÚbLICa de GestIÓn y ProMoCIÓn turÍstICa y CuLturaL deL PrInCIPado de , sau Design: Paco Currás diseñadores Layout: Creativos Cayco Cartography: Intermapa Texts: sociedad Pública de Gestión y Promoción turística y Cultural del Principado de asturias, sau Translation: Claudine Centro de Idiomas y traductores, orchestra Photography: Front cover - benedicto santos. Inside pages - alfonso suárez and own fi les. Creativos Cayco Printed by: Imprenta Mundo, s.L.u. D.L.: as03801-2016 ©ConseJerIa de eMPLeo, IndustrIa y turIsMo deL PrInCIPado de asturIas

don’t throW Me aWay, reCyCLe Me! TAKE CARE OF NATURAL PARADISE

Fine Arts Museum of DENMARK NETHERLANDS

BELGIUM

FRANCE

SWITZERLAND AUSTRIA

PRINCIPALITY OF ASTURIAS PORTUGAL ITALY

SEVILLE VALENCIA

ALICANTE PALMA DE MAL LORCA MALAGA

sturias is a Natural Paradise treasuring reveal the real nature of Asturias and of the A its remarkable historical background Asturian people. Those towns receiving the resulting in a very rich cultural heritage, a Award are distinguishable legacy that becomes part of its identity and features of a tradition being carefully constitutes a major touristic destination. preserved. They are where hundred- Within this heritage, art expressions year-old houses, hórreos (food warehouses), declared World Heritage by UNESCO such paneras (bread warehouses) and mills as the Palaeolithic rock art and the Pre witness how their inhabitants fi ght together Romanesque stand out on their own. for the survival of their way of living and of those values which do not have to be Even though it is a not a very large against progress. , the diversity of the Principality of Asturias is enormous. This cultural During the 19th and 20th centuries, Asturias mosaic must be discovered: from underwent decisive changes thanks to East to West without disregarding the both the industrialization process and the peculiarity and remarkable personality of emigration to America which modelled its Aviles, Gijon and Oviedo conforming an territory and defi ned its idiosyncrasy thus essential triangle. It is a territory where ensuring the preservation of its cultural archaeological sites, medieval towers and heritage and its own identity up to the 21st temples, noble houses of the modern century. period, coal mine towers or 19th industrial facilities live in harmony together with a For this reason, anyone who comes to magnificent ethnographic heritage that Asturias enjoys the green paradise, the constantly surprises and shows the roots traces of its history. Heritage and identity of this land. permeate the process of experiencing indescribable, unique and one and only This tradition, crystallized in the mythology feelings. That is why Asturias is living inherited from the most primitive believes culture. and in the festivals as living celebrations

#asturias #culture 01 Santa María del Naranco (Oviedo) 02 #asturias #culture 01 Introduction 04 UNESCO World Heritage Palaeolithic rock art Pre romanesque in asturias the Way of st. James 14 Covandonga and is paths 19 Tradition and identity 20 The Latin American memory 22 The Great Industrialization Legacy 24 Facilities for 21 st Century the niemeyer Centre Laboral of Culture the architectural complex of buenavista 28 Asturias, Cinema Paradise the camera loves asturias 31 A country of festivals Living celebrations 37 Museums and Resources of Interest 44 Map

#NaturalParadise #preromanesque #caveart #UNESCO #museums #festivals

#asturias #culture 03 Covaciella Cave ()

UNESCO World Heritage

the brand that recognises the excellence of the cultural legacy of humanity is inclusion on unesCo’s list of World heritage. asturias has three important elements appearing on this distinguished list, raising awareness beyond our borders of the fi ve Palaeolithic rock art caves, the six buildings of asturian pre- romanesque architecture, and the coastal routes of the Way of st. James, explicitly recognising their exceptional value and global signifi cance. they are all there for us to enjoy.

San Julián de los Prados (Oviedo) Cámara Santa (Oviedo)

04 #asturias #culture La Peña Cave () The Palaeolithic rock art

Five Asturian caves have been included on the World Herita- ne and on a 600m longitudinal gallery out of which the fi rst ge list within the declaration of Northern Spanish Palaeolithic 300m can only be visited. Divided into fi ve areas, this set from Rock Art. the Magdalenian period houses zoomorphic representations such as deer, horses and bison standing out a fi sh and a mam- The Principality is full of late Palaeolithic testimonies (bet- moth. ween 35,000 and 9,000 B.C.), as it counts on paints and engra- vings found in caves which are unmistakable remains of the tIto bustILLo Cave is located in the Villa of . It existence of hunters and collectors in the Upper Palaeolithic opens at the mountain mass of Ardines integrating with the and which document the artistic activity and the creation of Karstic complex located next to the mouth of the River Sella later sedentary social communities. Among all them El Pindal, where other caves such as La Lloseta or la Biesca stand out. Dis- Tito Bustillo, Candamo, Covaciella and Llonín were chosen to covered in 1968, it is made up of just one 700m gallery long to become the best acknowledged Asturian sites worldwide. which to adjacent areas lead. Its collection is organized into 11 sets (some including several panels) which gather more than a eL PIndaL (PIMIanGo, ). It is located at the hundred engraved and painted representations related to two mouth of the River Cares – Deva, in the Eastern part of Astu- stages being the pre-Magdalenian period (red signals and little rias, which is a coastal area known as San Emeterio Cape. It animal fi gures) and the Magdalenian period with several zoo- counts on a unique way into the sea overlooking the coastli- morphic representations and diff erent techniques. It should be

#asturias #culture 05 El Pindal Cave (Ribadedeva)

El Camarín (Candamo) mentioned that horses and reindeer transmit an extraordinary and living polychrome fee- ling thanks to using diff erent pigments and STONE AGE to scraping off the outlines. The Gallery of Horses, Chamber of Vulvas and the recently Palaeolithic Mesolithic Neolithic discovered Anthropomorphic Gallery should Upper Lower also be highlighted. Asturian Rock Art In addition, the adjacent Ardines Cave (inha- 120.000 B:C. 35.000 B:C. 10.000 B:C. 7.000 B:C. 4.000B:C. bited later than Tito Bustillo cave) can be visi- ted. It presents a large central room and visits are welcome during the whole year. Likewise, Technique • 1 or 2 colours (black and red or yellow). the Tito Bustillo Rock Art Centre building is • They used their fi ngers, burnt branches and rudimentary brushes. located nearby. This innovating building dis- Topics: • Animals (bulls, bisons, horses, deer, bears….) plays an overall view of Asturias prehistory • Hands and sexual organs. providing information and interesting ar- • Abstract symbols. chaeological pieces particularly these unique • Quite realistic style except for the human fi gures highlighting their sexual representations of the cave. organs. Other caves in Asturias with rock art that can be visited are La Loja Cave (El Mazo, Peñamellera La PeÑa Cave is located in San Román Baja), El Buxu Cave (Cardes, ), La Lluera Cave (Las Caldas, Oviedo), Conde Cave (Candamo) in the lower reaches of the River and the rock shelter (Tuñon, Santo Adriano). Nalón and close to its mouth and represents the most Western European Palaeolithic site. It opens at the base of a limestone hill and is made up of a small gallery that leads to a lar- Llonín and Covaciella complete the World Heritage Caves list and are fundamen- ge room thus being totally 70 m long. tal to acknowledge Western Asturias as “Cave Paradise”. This artistic area (some belongs to the Gravet- tian period up to the end of the Magdalenian Prehistorical Park constitutes an authentic and complete experience period) is located in the Room of Engravings to know this period particularly thanks to its “Cueva de Cuevas (Cave of Caves)” and it includes 6 panels. The two outstan- where the main European Palaeolithic Art samples are fully recreated. ding ones are the Wall of Engravings becau- se of its numerous images and a complex organization based on superimposition and the Chamber which is a high cavity with re- presentations of horses and bovid displayed Prehistorical Park (Teverga) as such to be looked at from the room thus revealing a clear and attractive scenography concept. Candamo Rock Information Centre and Didactic House are located in the refurbis- hed Palace of Valdés-Bazán, a wonderful civil works from the 17th century. It displays full-scale reproductions of cave treasures together with a multimedia system dealing with Cantabrian rock art.

06 #asturias #culture Santa María del Naranco (Oviedo)

Asturian Pre The decorations of these works present a combination of original pieces and those recycled from pillaging. However, Romanesque Art it is the pictorial decoration the main achievement of this structural set. Even though the external decoration has been In 1985 UNESCO agreed to register Santa María del Naranco, worn out by the passing of time, the extraordinary interior and on the World is preserved which could be classifi ed as the most important Heritage list. In 1998, the registration was enlarged to include Western European painting set from early Middle Age. San Julián de los Prados, and the Holy Chamber of Oviedo’s Cathedral. Therefore, a total number of six the 9th santa MarÍa deL naranCo. century Asturian monuments enjoy such privilege thus con- fi rming what experts had already stated. “It constitutes the This work, dated in year 848 due to its altar dedication, is still most complex and homogenous set of Western Europe early an enigma nowadays. It was not for liturgical use and might Middle Ages architecture. Its geographical gathering and the have been part of a larger set to be the residence (fi xed or exceptional conservation quality of its original status turn it temporary) of King Ramiro I, its promoter. into a unique piece.” It was used as a temple at least from the beginning of the 12th century to the fi rst quarter of the 20th century although Its name may suggest that this art constitutes the prelude of it originally fulfi lled other aims. Its symmetric and harmonic the later Romanesque architecture but nothing could be fur- arrangement with two fl oors and three rooms on each is qui- ther from the truth. The architecture identifi ed with the origin te diff erent from what is expected for such purpose despite of the and dated in the 9th century and the religious icons found in its rich decoration (a collection early 10th century A.C is the end period of a constructive tra- of 32 medallions stands out). It could have witnessed perfor- dition starting during the Paleochristian period as its techni- mances, celebrations and private masses. ques, spaces and decorations show.

It is demonstrated that this set takes part in the European trends of its time contrary to the repeated assertion of the isolation and delay of our cultural expresssions. Our Pre Ro- manesque architecture proves how the Kingdom of Asturias was involved with major European building trends equalling the level reached by the Carolingian and Byzantine courts. It shares some features found in European architecture of simi- lar scale or intention. Diff erent typologies live together: ex- teriors show spatial compartmentalisation whereas interiors are directed to semidarkness, bonding and concealment. De- corations are diff erent but based on a rich western repertoire as back as the Late antiquity. Santa María del Naranco (Oviedo)

#asturias #culture 07 San Miguel de Lillo (Oviedo) san MIGueL de LILLo

This temple was also erected at the bottom of the Naranco Mountain between the years 842 and 850 and was also pro- moted by Ramiro I. It honoured San Miguel from the 12th century onwards. Only one third of the original construction remains today as most of the totally vaulted building collap- sed at the end of the 11th century. Having the structure been consolidated, it was completed with a basic Eastern chapel during the same period. Among its sculptural decorations, 20 column bases with sym- bolic representations of the evangelists stand out and parti- cularly, the portico jambs with two outstanding monolithic pieces representing Roman circus games.

FonCaLada

This monument, the only witness of the hydraulic architecture of the Early Middle Ages in Europe, is the least known element of the architectural heritage in the Kingdom of Asturias. The monument itself was profusely covered with inscriptions, out of which only the main one located on the façade of the shape of a vaulted chapel is legible. The analysis of character features in this inscription, very similar to those in the inscription of San Tirso de Oviedo, make it possible for experts to date its cons- truction possibly in the fi rst half of the 9th century. It consists of three elements: pond more than 14 m. length, Aedicula or small temple and channel. The original canal was discovered in the excavations conducted in the 1990s and allowed to restore its monumentality. Foncalada (Oviedo)

08 #asturias #culture Santa Cristina (Lena) santa CrIstIna de Lena

It is a unique case due to the complexity of its internal distri- The fresco technique, the geometric, vegetation and archi- bution and its fl oor plan. It has a single access, indicating its tectural patterns, together with the aniconic nature of the use by an undiff erentiated congregation dedicated to serving programme,take us back to the classic 1st century prototypes a monastery. This theory is reinforced by the richness of the from Pompey and models from Ancient History. iconographic program which can be inferred from the inter- The majesty inside Santullano allows to appropriately value nal capitals and latticework as well in the project’s mastery the cultural level reached in the court of Oviedo. The building technique subject to metric rations. was also coated externally, covering the poor wall bond. Its ori- It is dated a little bit later than year 848. Its current appearan- ginal appearance had nothing in common with its current one. ce comes from the restoration process taken place at the end of the 19th century and the repair works after the 1934 Revo- lution. It is a single nave building, to which four protruding bodies are attached, lined up according to the two symmetry axes, corresponding to two lateral rooms, a portico with a su- perimposed chamber and a raised chapel. In the eastern sector, the Presbyterian space is raised and separated by an amazing arch of triumph, a sculptural treasure inside the temple, with three stilted semicircular arches, over reused columns, and Co- rinthian capitals. Fretted latticework was placed in the arcade spandrels and the boards and the central bars of the inner door, with incomplete inscriptions, are found under this arch. san JuLIÁn de Los Prados (santuLLano)

Alfonso II (791 – 842) built a church in honour of the Egyptian martyrs San Julián and Santa Basilisa, in the place known as Los Prados de Oviedo. This oversize and admirably harmonic church has a basilica fl oor plan with 3 , transept that stands out for its height, triple header and three porticos (two side ones and the other located to the west). Its transcenden- tal importance lies in the conservation of the internal pictorial decoration, unparalleled in Western Europe, due to its exten- sion, degree of conservation and iconographic programme. San Julián de los Prados (Oviedo)

#asturias #culture 09 the hoLy ChaMber

It is found in the South-eastern corner of the southerly arm of Oviedo’s cathedral transept. This place has not only an enor- mous cultural, artistic but also a symbolic one.Its chronology seems to refer to the time of Alfonso II (791-842).

It comprises two superimposed and isolated sanctuaries, with independent accesses: the lower one known as the crypt of Santa Leocadia (where the remains of the martyr saints will where they were dated such as de . There are rest) the upper known as the Chapel of San Miguel which re- also civil Works, the Old Tower of San Salvador (Oviedo), who- peats the layout of the presbytery and nave. At the end of se lower body houses a fortress to protect the weakest side of the 12the century the chapel underwent important modifi ca- the Holy Chamber. Some other isolated or decontextualized tions: a stone vaulted roof was built supported by three trans- remains are preserved such as the head wall of San Tirso in verse arches resting on columns. The apostles were carved in Oviedo with a great triplet round-arched window under an their shafts thus constituting one of the summits of Hispanic alfi z which can be seen from outside, or pieces such as win- Romanesque sculpture. dows, latticework, inscriptions or capitals found all around our geography. The outstanding goldsmithing preserved from the same pe- riod shows the cultural and material richness of those times: the Cross of Angels, dated in year 808 and the symbol of Ovie- do; the Cross of Victory, dated in year 908 and the symbol of Asturias; and the Chest of Agates, a reliquary donated by Fruela II in 910.

The pre Romanesque list exceedes the 6 monuments awar- ded by UNESCO. There are some other highly valued assets linked to this exclusive group most of which are temples such as Valdediós: an outstanding example even preserving its ori- ginal roof. Some of these buildings have preserved a good deal of the design and construction features of the period

outstanding features of Pre romanesque art: • Constructions with semicircular arches. • Masonry walls with external buttresses. • Basilical fl oor with 3 naves, and diff erent heights between the central nave and side ones. • Rich painting decoration. • Latticework in windows and triple arched windows in headers and central chambers. • Asturias has preserved the most comprehensive collection of early medieval buildings in Western Europe. We are not just talking about well-preserved architecture, but also about some extraordinary work with precious metals. • Pre-Romanesque art is the most important testimony to the cultural traditions of the Kingdom of Asturias. Twelve temples and three civilian buildings have been preserved. • Other examples of Asturian pre-Romanesque art include: San Pedro de Nora, Santa María de , Santo Adriano de Tuñón, San Salvador de Cross of Victory (Oviedo) Valdediós, San Salvador de Priesca, Santiago de , Santa María de Arbazal, San Andrés de Bedriñana, and the wall of San Tirso de Oviedo.

10 #asturias #culture

The Way of St. James

The French Way of St. James and the French routes for the Way were declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1993 and 1998 respectively, to which the Original Way, the Coastal Way, the Basque-Rioja Way and the Way of Liébana were added in 2015.

Passing through Asturias are the Original Way, also known as the “Inland Way”, which crosses the greenest and most mountainous part of Asturias, from Oviedo to the Port of Acebo, passing through the of Oviedo, , Grado, Salas, , and Grandes de Salime; and the Coastal Way, which enters from travelling along the entire Asturian coastline, crossing the districts of , Ribadesella, Caravia, , Villaviciosa, Gijón, Carreño, Avilés, Castrillón, , Muros de Nalón, , Valdés, , Coaña, , , and .

The route known as the “Camino del Salvador” helps link the French Way, from León, to the Origi- nal Way in Oviedo, passing through Lena, and .

In the 9th century, King Alfonso II, the Chaste, jour- neyed to Iria Flavia (Padrón) to see the recently dis- covered tomb of the apostle St. James, thus beco- ming the fi rst pilgrim to Compostela.

#asturias #culture 11 Oviedo

News of the tomb’s appearance spread throughout the whole of Europe and many pilgrims started to travel to Compostela, where Alfonso II had ordered a church to be built to house the relics of the saint. This was the start of the Jacobean route, the most important spiritual and cultural pilgrim route in Europe, followed by thousands of pilgrims from the 9th century to to- day. Throughout its twelve centuries of history, the Way of St. James has been an important channel of communication, a re- nowned commercial hub and the route for sharing knowledge between countries.

There are many reasons to walk the Jacobean route. The Way of St. James may be followed for religious reasons, as was nor- mal in the Middle Ages, but nowadays we can fi nd pilgrims following the Way for reasons of culture, sport, contact with nature, existential or introspective reasons, etc. Almost everyo- ne follows the Way on foot, although it is possible to do it by bicycle or even on horseback. It must be taken into account that preference is shown to pilgrims who travel on foot when it comes to staying overnight in refuges.

The Way of St. James is divided into stages that connect two towns and pilgrims stay overnight in the refuges, public or pri- vate, located in these towns.

The Way is signposted with the image of a scallop shell, the symbol of the Way of St. James and a mollusc typically found along the Galician coast. Many pilgrims carry a hanging scallop shell. This is because in the past this was the way for pilgrims to demonstrate on their return to their that they had reached .

The pilgrim’s credential. While the majority of pilgrims carry

12 #asturias #culture a kind of standard template with boxes in which to add the stamps, a simple notebook can be used which will be stamped in the towns through which they pass. Churches, refuges, tou- rist offi ces and other establishments have stamps to prove that pilgrims are following the Way. These stamps help those who want to stay in the refuges and at the end of the Way they allow the pilgrim to obtain the “Compostelana”, a certifi cate issued in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. This is given to those pilgrims who have travelled a minimum of 100 kilometres on foot or horseback and 200 kilometres on a bicycle. There are two types of “Compostelanas”, one for those who state that they have taken the Way for religious or spiritual reasons, and another for those doing it for any other reasons.

Following the Way of St. James is hard. It is important to prepa- re a little before starting the Way and have a minimum fi tness level. It is advisable to start taking walks some months before setting off on the pilgrimage. Wear comfortable footwear that has been used worn in. Bring some slippers to use in the re- fuges. Your backpack must not be too heavy. It is essential to bring sun cream and a raincoat. Experts recommend that the fi nal weight should not exceed 10 kilos. As well as clothing, other basic objects include a sleeping bag, a fl oor mat, a small fi rst aid kit, a torch and a walking stick.

Highlights along the Way of St. James: • On the Way, while passing through Asturias, you can enjoy other areas that have been declared a World Heritage Site: The Rock Art of the Cantabrian Coast (El Pindal, Tito Bustillo and La Peña Cave are open to the public) and the Monuments of Oviedo and the Kingdom of Asturias (the Asturian pre-Romanesque art). • There are thousands of ways to follow the Jacobean Route in Asturias and they are all rewarding. On foot, by bicycle, by car.... are all good ways to really discover the land and its people, its history and its stories, its gastronomy, its curiosities, its legends, etc. • The reasons for completing the pilgrimage can be very diverse: religious, cultural, love of nature, sports, an introspective journey to fi nd oneself, etc. It off ers a life-enhancing experience during which the pilgrims experience unforgettable moments, fi lled with surprising encounters. • ¡Buen Camino! (Good Journey!) is the universal greeting of the pilgrims on the Way of St. James.

#asturias #culture 13 Sanctuary of Covadonga

Covadonga, the origin of an identity

14 #asturias #culture Just 11 km. from Cangas de Onis, is the Sanctuary of Cova- donga, a place of great importance for , where na- ture, religion and history are joined. The victory of Don Pe- layo in Covadonga in the year 722, led to a Christian church being established there, which has endured for more than 12 centuries, uninterrupted until the present day. The result was favourable for the depleted Christian forces, Pelayo was made king and the cross and prophetic divine message beca- me the standard and emblem of the Asturian monarchy. The complex today consists of the Basilica of Covadonga, the cave with a small chapel inside, ecclesiastic buildings and several catering establishments. The Repelao. The entrance to the Sanctuary of Covadon- ga and the Picos de Europa Nature Reserve is marked by an obelisk, and is known as El Repelao. Legend has it that it is the place where Pelayo was proclaimed leader by acclamation of the Asturian and Cantabrian warriors. The Cave. It can be reached in two ways, either through the Basilica esplanade or by some steps set into the base of the mountain which houses the cave. These steps, called the “Steps of the Promises”, are frequently used by pilgrims who climb them on their knees, carrying out a promise or to make a petition to the Virgin, located in a small chapel inside the cave. Imagen of the Santina. The present image of the Santina dates from the 17th century, and was donated by the chapter of as a substitute for the Romanesque ima- ge which disappeared during a fi re. On the Santina’s feast day she wears the magnifi cent original crowns, made of platinum, diamonds and other precious stones, which can be admired in the museum for the rest of the year. Sepulchres. Before reaching the image of the Virgin, one passes a tomb on which is inscribed “Here lies King Don Pela- yo, elected in the year 716, who in this miraculous cave began the restoration of Spain. Defeated the Moors, he died in 737, and is accompanied by his wife and sister“. Here are preserved the stone sepulchres of Don Pelayo, his wife and sister, and that of Alfonso I and his wife.

#asturias #culture 15 View of the Basilica of Covadonga

Fountain of Marriage. At the feet of the Holy Cave is lo- Virgin, by Samsó, the paintings of Don Pelayo in Covadonga, cated the so-called “Fountain of Marriage”, and, according to by Madrazo, and the excellent Baroque work, the Assumption folklore, the girl that drinks from it will marry within a year. of the Virgin of Carducho, in its interior. The Collegiate Church of San Fernando. The Collegiate Museum of Covadonga. The Museum off ers an interes- Church of San Fernando, is the oldest of the preserved Covadon- ting tour through the history of the Sanctuary. It has a series ga buildings. Placed with its back against the mountain, it was of canvases of all the kings of Asturias, as well as interesting built in the 16th century where the medieval monastery was gold and silver pieces, sculptures (an ivory Christ) and other located, and in its cloister can be found some magnifi cent Ro- decorative art works, such as the cloak, embroidered in gold, manesque sepulchres, probably dating from the 12th century. which Queen Isabel II presented to the Virgin. The basílica. On climbing the steep bends in the road to The Campanona. The spectacular bell, three metres tall the sanctuary one suddenly fi nds oneself in a rugged area, and weighing 4 tons, decorated with scenes from the Divine site of the Basilica. The building in pink limestone from the Comedy, won the gold Arts medal at the Universal Exhibition, Covadonga mountain itself, together with its dramatic set- held in Paris in 1900. ting, make it remarkable, along with the seated image of the

16 #asturias #culture Park of the Prince. A path crosses the park through luxu- riant vegetation and over beautiful wooden bridges which, along with valuable historical and artistic architectural pieces, highlight the beauty of the setting. Other Buildings of Interest. The Hotel Pelayo (1908), the House of the Musicians (18th century), the Pilgrims Inn (18th century) a building in mountain architecture style, which, in its time, was the only lodging place in the Sanctuary and which, later, also became the headquarters of the Covadonga Schola Santorum and site of the old schools, now fi tted out as a youth hostel and, in the Prince’s Park, as a meeting point for young people. Holy Cave of Covadonga

Pilgrimages Route Route from Muñigo to Covadonga GIJÓN Andariega Crossing Route to the Priena Cross Historic Route to Covadonga from Llanes Vega de Orandi Route Deva Route to the Lakes VILLAVICIOSA

Amandi Sietes LLANES

POLA Los Callejos Posada ARRIONDAS Llames OVIEDO Lamuño NAVA CANGAS DE ONÍS INFIESTO Vega del Puerto Bendición Piloñeta Corao Espinaredo Martinporra La Matosa Cruz de Priena Covadonga La Gargantada Muñigo El Sellón Lago Enol Vega de Orandi Lago Ercina Covadonga and its paths

Paths In the settInG oF the royaL suMMer resIdenCe

From Muñigo to Covadonga. This path begins at the The route can be covered in an hour and a quarter, star- Muñigo car park, located beside the AS-262 highway, and is ting from Repelao (AS-262). It is a zig zag route, ending at a approximately 1.5 km. long. After crossing a wooden gang- cross, known as the Priena Cross or the Cross of Pelayo, as plank, one climbs a pedestrians-only path through a forest of it was the place where Don Pelayo ambushed the Saracen chestnut, birch and maple trees. The route ends at the wes- troops in 722, resulting in the Battle of Covadonga and the tern part of the Covadonga collection of monuments. start of the Reconquest. The Priena Cross Route. This route, at an altitude of more Vega de Orandi Route. PR-PNPE-6. The route to the than 700 metres, is a privileged observatory, with views of the Vega de Orandi, one of the prettiest landscapes in the area, sea, the Sueve, Arriondas, Cangas de Onis, and the Los Lagos begins at the Covadonga Sanctuary. It ascends the slopes of highway. The greatest summits of these valleys can also be Mount Auseva, through a beautiful closed forest, to the Co- seen. lladín de Orandi, and from there it begins its descent which leads to the Vega de Orandi.

#asturias #culture 17 Lake Ercina (Covadonga)

Route to the Lakes of Covadonga. They are the main ac- Andariega Crossing. From Gijón to Covadonga. This cess to the interior of the Picos de Europa National Park, via is a long route of approximately 75 km., which is covered in the highway which leads directly to the lakes. This winding three stages, passing through areas of great natural beauty: ascent off ers a panoramic view of the area. Deva - Amandi (25 km.); Amandi - Llames de (25 km.), The lakes (Enol and Ercina) are located in a setting of great and Llames de Parres - Covadonga (25 km.). natural beauty, which provides the tourist with a multitude of The Historic Route to Covadonga from Llanes. Recupe- options, ranging from the basic circular route starting at the rated some years ago and divided into three stages, it crosses Buferrera car park, to an infi nite number of medium to hard magnifi cent natural areas: Llanes - Los Callejos (15.6 km.); Los routes and trails to diff erent corners of the Park. Callejos - Vega del Puerto - Corao (19 km.), and Corao - Aba- mia- Cruz de Priena - Covadonga (9 km.). PILGrIMaGe Paths Pilgrimages Route. From Oviedo to Covadonga. This route is 104 km long and is travelled in seven stages, which wander through diff erent villages, valleys and sheep-folds: Oviedo - La Gargantada highway (15.0 km.); Gargantada – Es- pinadal Heights (17.5 km.); Espinadal Heights- Miera Bridge (16.7 km.); Miera Bridge - Espinaredo (9.5 km.); Espinaredo - La Matosa. (14.0 km.); La Matosa - Cangas de Onís (19.5 km.), and Cangas de Onís - Covadonga (13.5 km.).

18 #asturias #culture Tradition and identity: The real Asturias

Asturias has possessed a rich cultural heritage since prehisto- revolutions that have contributed to the shaping of the Europe ric times, and proof of this are the abundant examples of cave of today. paintings to be found in the whole region, some of which have been declared a World Heritage. From this fruitful prehistory to Asturias, in a serene and determined way, is a great bastion of the pre Roman and military Asturias, –more visible in western the Spanish and continental identity, and extols it through its Asturias -, the Roman Asturias– perfectly identifi ed in the terri- respect for the traditions, seen in its villages and towns, fi shing tories through which run the main Roman roads, especially in villages, , natural spaces and biosphere reserves. the central area of the region -, medieval Asturias – to the Astu- In Asturias, traditions are an inexhaustible source for resear- rias of the Reconquest, the Monarchy and the Road to Santia- chers, but also a many-faceted resource for all types of trave- go-, without forgetting the Asturias of the Enlightenment, the llers: those who love history, art and monuments, those who great ethnographic wealth and the hydraulic and rural devices enjoy traditional culture and ethnography, lovers of nature of the Industrial Revolution, or the Spanish-American emigra- and rural life, those who delight in the ages of the architecture, tion, all are present in modern Asturias through live evidence, those who feel like archaeologists for a day, or those who sim- festivals and celebrations, facilities and museums which recall ply give themselves up, body and soul, to any fi esta which has an intense and unsettled past, transformations, changes and music, merriment, good food and the ritual of cider drinking.

#asturias #culture 19 The LatinAmerican memory: The indianos (Asturian people emigrated to Latin America)

Many Asturian people headed to America looking for a better Their Mansions or detached houses following the bourgeoi- life from mid-19th century to the fi rst quarter of 20th century. sie mentality and taste proved to their neighbours the social They were both from the Eastern and Western parts of the re- and fi nancial status of those succeeded overseas because of gion and embarked for a long trip which was a return journey their dimensions, singularity, quality and decorations, thus many times. using the architecture as distinguishing feature. The surroun- ding gardens frequently including palm trees also showed Demographic pressure and resource scarcity or just avoidan- that diff erentiation and status. Finally the magnifi cent family ce of being called up for the military service spurred many vaults and tombs were meant to transcend and take their ac- of them to go on this adventure mainly characterized but its knowledgement beyond. entrepreneurial nature, hard work and the creation of close bonds with other emigrants to preserve their identity marks. The Indianos Archive Foundation -Museum of Emigration ins- Either individually or gathered in associations, they began talled at the Quinta Guadalupe, in (Ribadedeva) is projects in their homeland which made it possible to build the main facility to discover how historically signifi cant this roads, install public lighting, urbanize squares, construct movement was. It is a beautiful mansion built up in 1906 by fountains and washing places but above all, they built up, fur- Íñigo Noriega who immigrated to Mexico. nished and kept schools and their teachers in many villages thus allowing primary education to be available everywhere.

20 #asturias #culture The rich “Latin American” heritage is present all around Asturias. There are very good examples on the Western coast such as in Navia (particularly in Tox or Villapedre), Val- dés (where the most outstanding buildings are around Barcellina or Villar) or Cudillero. If a site is worth to stand out because of its extraordinary architecture or the high num- ber of mansions with gardens, this is Somao (Pravia).

“Llanes Indiana route” links excellent pieces located in the . There are also routes of interest in Cangas de Onís, with an amazing group of houses from the 20th century, in Piloña (Sevares, and Coya), Caravia and other places in Eastern Asturias.

On some occasions, green areas and gar- dens care service was transferred to the community. This is why Asturias counts on many public parks donated and furnished by indianos, such as Vicente Loriente park in Castropol or Ballina park in Villaviciosa, just to mention two examples.

At the beginning of July the “Indiana Fair” is held in Colombre which turns into a real market where goods and overseas products can be found together with local craftwork and gastronomy. The Festival Agenda also includes guided visits, music performances and exhibitions. “Indianos“ fi les (Colombres)

#asturias #culture 21 The great industrialization legacy: Working-class heritage

Industrialization meant deepest and fastest transformation (low-cost supermarket), health care (hospitals) and education undergone by Asturias. The traditional model started in the (religious schools). Middle Ages came into a crisis, the Modern age arrived, as well as capitalism, urban development and, of course, the An excellent example of this industrial paternalism is displa- working-class movement. It had an impact on how the terri- yed in (Mieres), an example of this type of housing which fo- tory was organized by favouring the centre where coal mines llows the garden-city model. Construction quality and shape and iron and steel industry settled although it aff ected the are unusual, not only in the semi-detached houses but also whole Principality. in the equipment provided by Sociedad Hullera Española to give assistance, fi delize and shortly control their inhabitants, Iron and steel factories were located in the coalmining areas schools, health care centre, low-cost supermarket, church, lei- until the fi rst Spanish iron and Steel company, ENSIDESA, was sure centre, etc. founded in Avilés. Communications (particularly railways and ports) developed in the light of this activity. Energy produc- San Esteban de Pravia (Muros de Nalón) port which was the tion, both using small and early hydroelectric stations in the main coal port in Spain is an example of how its fi shing and mountains (La Malva, in ) as well as great postwar leisure uses live together with an excellently preserved indus- waterfalls (Grandas or Tanes), enrich this legacy together with trial heritage of its own. The visitor may contemplate many thermoelectric plants or the so called urban factories (Gas port buildings (customs, police headquarters, warehouse, factory in Oviedo for example). Works Board…), walk along the old narrow gauge railway trench, turned into a pedestrians path or gaze at the restored Daily live was changed. The rural country houses as produc- material stowage cranes or mineral loading bay. tion and accommodation units lost their primacy not only because of the massive exodus to cities where working-class The Principality counts on many other examples of its early neighbourhoods or buildings for rent were built up but also industrialization process such as the “arnao” Mine Museum due to the creation of working-class barracks and barricades the fi rst mining vertical shaft deepened in Asturias located in from rural areas to the mountains. The so called “industrial pa- Arnao (Castrillón). It includes a peculiar mine castle lined up ternalism” meant a new relation between workers and emplo- with zinc plates built up by the Royal Asturian Mining Com- yers as they were off ered other supplies apart from housing pany. One may have a walk along the company village where

22 #asturias #culture there are houses (both for workers and for middle manage- ment and owners), schools, low-cost supermarkets, etc., or one of the fi rst railway to link it with San Juan de Nieva.

The Caudal mining area includes a “must” visit: Turón Valley (Mieres). It houses lots of mining remains enclosed within its narrow bottom and rugged slopes where the Santa Bárbara Shaft(1914), the fi rst one to be declared an Asset of Cultural The Museum of Mining and The Industry (El Entrego) Interest of the Principality of Asturias is located. Nalón Valley is another place with its own name within the history of mi- ning. Its great legacy is ready to be discovered such as the ecomuseum of samuño valley in Langreo, with its ancient duction of a mine” which is the facility’s core activity. It is a San Luis well, the mining village of La , generated by full-scale reproduction of a mine with real equipment simu- this, and the cutting and crossing of the mining railway track lating the most important aspects of coal extraction, under- that transported the coal and permits visitors to the Eco- ground ventilation and transport. You can feel the shocking Museum to ride an authentic mining train and travel the old experience of descending to the exploitation in a cage and coal route. And the visit to see inside Sotón Pit, built in the of perceiving the smell and sounds of this working place…..a fi rst decades of the 20th century and still operational. Coal safe feeling. stopped being extracted on 31 December 2014 and it now operates as an auxiliary pit to the Maria Luisa pit. The tour the Iron and steeL MuseuM (MusI) lasts for 4 hours and covers around 5km. It goes through the “La Jota” chimney, between the 8th, 9th and 10th fl oors, at a The museum reception is set in an impressive cooling tower depth of between approximately 386m and 556m below the belonging to the former iron and steel factory owned by earth’s surface. Duro Felguera, a Spanish pioneering company established in the 19th century. It proposes a historical timeline starting A tour around old railway lines (linked to diff erent industrial with the creation of the company and how it infl uenced the and mining exploitations) which were turned into pedes- population and the land. Thanks to models, information pa- trians paths and cycling lanes can be considered as an al- nels and interactive modules, and collections pieces we may ternative that combines a visit to old productive areas with understand the historical evolution of the company and its healthy exercise outdoors. This is the case of the well-known facilities as well as its impact on the town of Langreo. Bear Pedestrian Path that goes across Santo Adriano, , Teverga and Quirós councils, Turón Green Route (Mieres) that Besides, MUSI off ers either the chance of guided visits to the recovers former railway lines used by Hulleras de Turón. We permanent exhibitions or to follow other optional closely- must also include La Camocha Green Route (Gijón) with more related routes such as “Working class housing in La Felguera: than 7 km between La Camocha and Los Campones. places to live in” and “La Felguera, Pedro Duro entrepreneurial nature and the origin and development of the urban centre”. During the last years, three main facilities have been esta- blished to provide historical information and research of the raILWay MuseuM three main industrialization process foundations in Asturias: The Museum of Mining and Industry, The Iron and Steel Mu- It is located in the refurbished North Railway Station facilities seum and Railway Museum. in Gijon. It is devoted to keeping, researching and spreading Asturias railway history. It off ers a broad view of the relation- the MuseuM oF MInInG and Industry (MuMI) ship between the railway and the social, technical and eco- nomic evolution of Asturias while studying the infl uence of It is located in El Entrego (San Martín del Rey Aurelio). The the Industrial Revolution and the technological development permanent exhibition: a look at the history of mining in Euro- brought about by the implementation of the railway in our pe from the Steam Age to the period of maximum industriali- region. sation in Asturias. Furthermore, the museum has reproduced More than fi fty of restored mobile material pieces are displa- some typical mining objects and areas such as materials labo- yed, being some of them in use, coming from Asturias rail ratories, infi rmary and washhouse. network (one of the denser in Spain). Steam-powered locomo- MUMI’s main part is located in a metallic mine castle outside tives, old wagons and many other highly valued pieces displa- whereas inside it accesses the ground fl oor to fi nd “a repro- yed on the railway thus allowing living a whole experience.

#asturias #culture 23 Facilities for 21st century New cultural scenarios.

the history of asturias, built on a hard but beautiful territory, fraught with men and women who put their dreams and their backs into their development expressed in the rich cultural legacy, is still increasing nowadays and will remain in the future. therefore, asturias houses ambitious projects that extend beyond the regional borders to be classifi ed within artistic and cultural innovatin thus creating a large off er available to every visitor ready to be surprised.

24 #asturias #culture The Niemeyer Centre, much more than a symbol

The Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer, one of the most in- Located by Aviles estuary, just outside town’s historic quarter, fl uencing modern architects, was a pioneer when exploring the Niemeyer Centre has transformed the industrial area into reinforced concrete building and plastic possibilities. Among a space for excellence and creativity. It has already become a other acknowledgements, he was granted the Prince of Astu- symbol of the future Asturias, a country betting on sustaina- rias Award for the Arts (1989). Nowadays, his fi gure is insepa- bility, technology, education and culture as engines of deve- rable from Aviles and from Asturias thanks to his only work lopment without disregarding its industrial roots. in Spain and, in his own words, his most beloved work out of those built outside Brazil. The complex is made up of fi ve independent while comple- mentary parts. The auditorium: with 998 seats whose back In 2006, when the Awards celebrated their 25th Anniversary, stage wall can be opened thus making it possible to enjoy the Foundation contacted all laureates to take part in the ce- the performance at the square; the dome: enclosing an open lebration either by giving a master class, a seminar, or a mee- space for exhibitions including highly plastic elements; the ting with the public “I am an architect and so, what I know tower: a 20 m sight-seeing tower, restaurant and cocktail is to design buildings and this is what I am going to do, to lounge and the multi-purpose building: including rehearsal, design a building”. meeting and conference rooms as well as the coff ee area, the shop and the reception. Finally, there is a great square to wel- come men and women all around the world, an impressive theatre box overlooking the estuary and the town of Avilés”.

#asturias #culture 25 Laboral, City of Culture

“Laboral – Ciudad de la Cultura”, an extraordinary architecto- nical complex located in Gijón brings new life by turning into a place devoted to promoting training, culture and avant- garde artistic creativity.

The former Universidad Laboral de Gijón was conceived as a mining orphanage and began its construction in 1948 under the direction of the architect Luis Moya Blanco. It was meant to train generations of workers as qualified professionals. It counted on classrooms, workshops, events room, residencies and even a 100 hectare farm apart from its more than 130,000 square meters of impressive premises. This so-called “City of Culture” opened its doors in 2007 thus becoming a space which pays attention to innovation in the world of Art. Its magnificent Theatre and the Art and Indus- trial Creation Centre stand out as the main candidates to be- come the cultural centre of Asturias.

Leaving aside the current activities of the complex, its archi- tecture has an undisputable charming. Its scale, quality and peculiarity do not leave the visitor indifferent. Its majestic central patio surrounded by vaulted porches is the area around which the complex is structured. In the East, the former Headship’s building; in the South, the Board’s; in the North, the Theatre where classicism prevails in the exter- nal façade; in the West, the impressive church dominates the square.

Behind the temple, a 117m enormous tower stands with a pa- noramic lift that reaches the terrace at the top to enjoy stun- ning views of Gijon’s bay and its surroundings.

Laboral Art and Industrial Creation Centre

One of its fundamental focuses is this exhibition centre spe- cifically devoted to art, science, technology and advanced vi- sual industries. It is a place meant to research, train and carry out artistic and technical production as well as to project new forms of art and industrial creation.

Casual Visitors are given the chance to enjoy both the perma- nent collection as well as the interesting temporary exhibi- tions included in the agenda.

26 #asturias #culture The architectural complex of Buenavista

Located in Oviedo, this complex whose Convention and Exhi- The Convention and Exhibition Centre bition Centre stands out as the central part of it, displays the talent of the Valencia-born engineer and architect Santiago It was designed as an ovoid structure located under two whi- Calatrava Valls. It has become an absolutely contemporary te steel ribs characteristic of Calatrava’s style. It is a kind of complement for a town full of culture and events such as the helmet ending in an overhanging canopy. opera season and of reference facilities integrated in its His- toric Quarter such as the Fine Arts Museum of Asturias or the From both material and formal points of view, it is a charac- Archaeological Museum. It has been defined as the greatest teristic work of the architect: magnificent, expressive and civil work after the Universidad Laboral and addresses a wide beautiful. He uses concrete, glass and steel to obtain peculiar agenda hosted by the categorical and personal shapes of this material quality, colours and lighting with an awesome result architect. which meets the proposed use requirements: singularity, ca- pacity and functionality. The project will end this great work which began to be deve- loped in 2001 and which today constitutes one of the most He should mention first the outdoor terrace over the shop- famous icons of the capital of Asturias ping centre access porch covered by the building visor which displays several potential uses and then the auditorium un- The Convention and Exhibition Centre is located in the midd- der a 45m internal vault height and a stage of more than 350 le of a half-open square and encircled by a “U” where several square feet. constructions interweaved. The surrounding building that encircles it on three sides presents glazing containers suppor- This major international architectonic work contributes to ted by very high steel arrows. An enormous shopping centre make Oviedo become a worldwide reference in congress and (MODOO) was establish in the lower part and a public space event organization. of more than 30,000 square feet was created around it.

#asturias #culture 27 Asturias, Cinema Paradise: At the other side of the screen

28 #asturias #culture Frame of the movie “What’s a Bear For?” The camera loves Asturias Asturias, with its natural beauty, its landscapes, its heritage and its people, has captured the attention of many artists throughout time, including fi lm directors, from the time that the Lumiere brothers invented fi lm until now, and television, of course, has also set its sights on an Asturias whose colours, and scenery are the dream of the best scriptwriters, produ- cers and directors.

The Film Archive of Asturias (Oviedo, Plaza Daoiz y Velarde, 11. Tel. +34 985 207 350) has documentary and physical examples of fi lms inspired by Asturias.

A scene from “El Orfanato” (LLanes) shooting

#asturias #culture 29 A scene from “La Señora” (Cadavedo) shooting

In recent years, several directors have frequently used Astu- tv serIes rias as a setting for their works. some of the most outstan- · Carlos v (Ribadedeva and Llanes). ding fi lms and television series are listed below: · doctor Mateo (Colunga).

FILMes · La señora (Llanes, Ribadedeva, Aller and Valdés). · the night watchman (2015) by Miguel Ángel Jiménez (Langreo, · La regenta (Oviedo and Mieres). Morcín). · vientos de agua (Gijón, , San Martín del Rey · el futuro ya no es lo que era (2015) by Pedro Barbero (Oviedo, Aurelio). Llanes). · Para qué sirve un oso (2010) by Tom Fernández (Proaza, Quirós, The natural stage that is Asturias has won the love of audien- Teverga and Somiedo). ces, those who have thrilled to the stories on the big and small · Fuga de cerebros (2009) by Fernando González Molina (Gijón). screen. The arrival of thousands of fi lm and television fans has · vicky Cristina barcelona (2008) by Woody Allen (Oviedo). given rise to the emergence of routes and tourist products like: · el orfanato (2007) by José Antonio Bayona (Llanes and Ribade- • Llanes Cinema (LLanes) www.llanesdecine.com sella). • Doctor Mateo route (Lastres) www.lacomarcadelasidra.es · Luz de domingo (2007) by José Luis Garci (Oviedo, Gijón, Avilés…). · oviedo express (2007) by Gonzalo Suárez (Oviedo). Also, the region has many fi lm festivals, the most famous of which, and one of the oldest, is the Gijon International Film · el abuelo (1998) by José Luis Garci (Llanes, Gijón, Lena, Oviedo, Sie- Festival, which is more than fi fty years old and is a referen- ro, Valdés and Cudillero). ce point in the European avant garde and independent fi lm · volver a empezar (1982) by José Luis Garci (Gijón and Cangas de world. Onís). oscar winner.

30 #asturias #culture A country of festivals: Living celebrations

International Descent of Sella River

When one celebrates one of the traditional Asturian festivals or auction takes places among the neighbours. The money held along the year and around the whole territory, takes part collected is invested in the following festival. At this point, the and enjoys an amusing and social event. banquet takes place, amused by drums or bagpipes or by a small band. The festival ends with an open-air dance at night, The romería or pilgrimage, the “puya’l ramu” (the bunch is time to dance. It is also common for participants to wear the given for public auction) and the verbena or open-air dan- “traxe’l país”: the traditional costume which is an essential ce are common to every Asturian festival. The romería is a part of our cultural identity. pilgrimage to the sacred place, a temple dedicated to a cer- tain image where mass is celebrated and the image and the There is a certain correlation between the most characteristic “bunch” are brought out in a procession and carried on porta- festivals in Asturias and those declared to be of Touristic Inter- ble platforms by several neighbours. It consists on a wooden est. All of them form part of the intensive festival calendar in structure decorated with bunches of laurel and fl owers from Asturias rich of ancient remains and timeless emotions. which bread loaf or bread rolls hang. Then the “puya’l ramu”

#asturias #culture 31 Festival days

January El Guirria y el Aguinaldo, in Ponga. The Guirria procession and the riders of Christmas box lead for San Juan de Beleño towards the Cainava neighbourhood around midday on New Year’s Day. That is the starting point of the diabolical route around Beleño and when it arrives in Cai- nava it goes into all open houses and kisses as many young girls as possible.

February Gastronomic day of slaughter, in and Alto Sella. Every weekend in this month, local restaurants off er menus based on pork and slaughter-related products. Antroxu (Carnival), in Gijón. It offi cially begins on the night of the traditional “Jueves de Comadres” (Mates’ Thursday) and lasts until Ash Wednesday when the Sardine is buried Parades, murgas, fl oats and dan- ces amuse one of the most intense carnival celebrations in Asturias. Antroxu (Carnival), in Avilés. Carnival is celebrated from Antroxu Thursday until Viella Sun- day. Among the diff erent events taking place, the Galiana International Fluvial Descent stands out in which fl oats go down one of streets of the historical quartier full of foam whi- le water is thrown over pedestrians. aPrIL Easter, in Avilés. Aviles Easter celebration is a tradition that goes back as far as 1948 where the fi rst procession took place. The celebration has never been interrupted since then with processions from Palm Sunday to Good Friday. Holy Week, in Villaviciosa This is one of the oldest and most traditional in the region and has maintained its customs virtually unchanged since its founding in 1668. The streets are decorated in the violet colour of the Nazarenes (those taking part in the procession), and a large audience gathers to attend the commemoration of the passion and death of Christ. Living Stations of the Cross in The Passion according to St. Mark is recreated on Maundy Thursday, with numerous local residents taking part. The pro- cession route runs around Santa María Monastery, accompa- nied by music to highlight the great realism of this popular re-enactment. Painted Eggs Festival,

32 #asturias #culture Painted Eggs Festival, in Pola de Siero. Cué Sacramental, in Llanes. The festival is amused by performances of Asturian folklore It is held on San Juan Day. The whole village knits awesome bands. Thousands of artistically decorated Easter Eggs are ex- floral carpets to decorate the streets. hibited and sold. It is held on Easter Tuesday. Astur Market, in Nava. Salmon Fair, Cornellana, Salas. It is the recreation of a traditional Asturian market in Nava: It is a compulsory meeting point for salmon, fishing and na- good food and cider, craftsmen… ture lovers worldwide. It means the beginning of the fishing L’Amuravela Festival, in Cudillero. season, a deeply rooted Asturian tradition that created the L’ Amuravela traditional and secular sermon is given every striking competition of fishing the “campanu” or first salmon 29th June at the port. Standing on a landed motorboat, lo- of the season. cal speaks in Cudillero old and local language (pixueto) and El Bollo festivity, in Avilés. ironically recalls in detail what has happened during the year. Its origin goes back to the 19th century and it was the expres- Seafarers’ Procession of San Juan, San Juan de la Arena sion of coexistence and popular participation. It celebrates (Soto del Barco) the arrival of springtime and the end of the Paschal fast on The centenary seafarers’ procession of San Juan, runs along Easter Monday. the streets of the town as a tribute to seafarers traditionally Picadillo and Sabadiego (minced meat and Spanish red marking the start of the white tuna campaign. 17 images are sausage), in Noreña. carried by young men wearing the summer uniform of the The pigmeat industry guild created this festival 25 years ago navy, creating a unique spectacle. to pay tribute to their patron saint, San Marcos. Later, it beca- me a popular festival. July The Exconxuraos, in Llanera. May This medieval dinner is one of the attractive events given du- Trasona Dam Pilgrimage, in . ring the festival. It moves us back to the Middle Ages to cele- It is held on every 1st of May. Lots of people have enjoyed this brate a historical event when the neighbours went to Oviedo traditional pilgrimage for more than 50 years. on a pilgrimage to seek forgiveness to exempt themselves Rice Pudding Festival, in . from communion. It is held during the first weekend of July. It is part of San Francisco de Paula Festival Agenda. For more Lamb Festival, in el Prau Llagüezos (Quirós – Lena). than 200 years, it has been held the 2nd Sunday of each It is a popular Asturian pilgrimage which turns into a great month in Santa Eulalia de Cabranes. It includes craftsman steakhouse of lamb roasted on a stake in Llagüezos field from market, rice pudding workshops, music, etc. first time in the morning. Folklore band performances and Ascension Fair, en Oviedo. traditional sports take place in the morning. It is held on the closest Sunday to Ascension Day. Stockbree- Cider Festival, in Nava. ding Fair, activities and product exhibition to pay a tribute to It is held during the second weekend of July to pay tribute those country men and women who do not only preserve the to the cider. There are folklore expressions, free cider tasting, traditions but also do their best to keep the agricultural and markets, etc. stockbreeder activities of our country. Nuestra Señora del Carmen Festival, in Cangas del Nar- cea. The Descarga (Fireworks). June The Descarga (Fireworks) takes place on the 16th of July Floral carpets of the Corpus, in Castropol. when the image of the Virgin reaches the highest point of the On the Sunday after the Corpus Christi the narrow streets bridge where Narcea and Luiña rivers join. The intense noise are carefully decorated using flowers, seeds, shells and other of thousands of rockets raises a unique pray of fireworks up materials to create a carpet along which the Corpse of Christ to heaven. will walk together with the children making their First Holy Santa María Magdalena Festival, in Llanes. Communion and the band. The transfer and burning of the “bonfire” starts on the great San Antonio de Padua Festival, in Cangas de Onís. day, 22nd July and ends with Rodeo dance and Danza Prima This devotion is dated in the 17th century. The traditional es- performances. canda bread auction goes back to 1749.

#asturias #culture 33 auGust El Carmen, in Torazo (Cabranes) La Regalina Its origins date back to 1766, and its uniqueness lies in the celebration date, which is not the traditional day on which this saint is worshipped. It is believed that this is because the Santa María Magdalena Festival, in . residents agreed to wait to harvest the spelt, at the end of A procession dedicated to the Virgin is held on the 22nd of August, so that they could make the breads that were off ered July and the Magdalena club organizes fi reworks and musical to the Virgin as thanks for favours granted. performances among other activities. Sardine Festival, in Candás (Carreño). Interceltique Festival, in Avilés and its municipality. The tradition invites to eat grilled sardines prepared at the Celtic music from diff erent can be enjoyed at diff erent stands of participating restaurants along San Antonio prome- stages around the municipality of Aviles as well as Celtic art, nade every 1st of August at 5 o’clock. passacaglia, sport exhibition, traditional games, etc. Canoeing Festival. International Descent of Sella River. Carmín de la Pola Festival, in Pola de Siero. Parres – Ribadesella. A fun-religious festival that has been held for more than 300 It has been held since 1930 on the fi rst Sunday of August. The years on the Monday following the 16th of July. It includes festival starts with a contestants’ parade around the streets lunch and a pilgrimage to continue along the streets of the of Arriondas. The Descent gathers a large number of peculiar town. canoeists and is followed by thousands of spectators located Shepherd’s Festival, in la Vega d’Enol (Cangas de Onís). at the banks of the river or on a train that runs parallel to the The Shepherd Corporation and Council have an Open Council canoeists. meeting after the mass at the Buen Pastor chapel where they Navia Estuary Swim, in Navia. distribute pastures among the shepherds living in the moun- Both national and international Sportsmen take part in this tains of Covadonga. event which is the best excuse to celebrate some other fes- Bollu Festival, in La Peruyal (Parres). tival events. The festival starts with the reading of the opening address at Asturias Day, in Gijón. the Town Hall balcony. Then, bagpipers walk along the streets A traditional parade from the Jardines de la Reina to Cerro de of the town to warn neighbours that the celebration is about Santa Catalina during the fi rst Sunday of August. to arrive. Valdesoto fl oats, in Siero. Vaqueira (Cowboy) Festival, in Aristébano (Tineo - Valdés). The traditional Valdesoto fl oat parade goes back as far as It is held in the Braña of Aristébano on the last Sunday of July. 1950 when a group of neighbours decided to go to the festi- Although the most important event is the Vaqueira wedding, val on decorated carts. the festival in itself is a celebration of the Vaqueiros of Alzada Nuestra Señora de Andrín Festival, in Llanes. customs and culture It is a fun-religious celebration where bands of bagpipers Beach Tennis Tournament in Luanco (Gozón). walk along the streets of the town. It is held on the 15th. It is a unique sport tournament in which fi rst-level tennis pla- Nuestra Señora del Cébrano, in (Teverga). yers play on the Rivery Beach. It is held at the end of July or It is a traditional Asturian pilgrimage dedicated to the Virgin. beginning of August. It is held on the 15th. Festival of Bagpipes Bands “Villa de Candás”, in Candás Nuestra Señora del Rosario, in Luarca (Valdés). (Carreño). Rosario festival stands out because of its typical habaneras Thousands of people from all over Europe meet at this event and its seamen procession dedicated to the Virgin whose to enjoy a varied selection of the best bagpipes bands from image is taken out to walk along the local coastline. It is held the whole of the Celtic world. on the 15th. National Gold Panning Championship in Navelgas (Tineo). Alba Festival, in Quirós. An activity as unique as prospecting for gold in the sands of A festival to honour the Virgin of Alba. It is held on the 15th the river with a pan. Along with the offi cial competition, pan- at the Rock which holds the same name (Aramo Sierra) and ning workshops are held in the Gold Museum so that everyo- where the sanctuary is located. ne can enjoy the experience.

34 #asturias #culture San Roque Festival, in Llanes. Cattle Market in San Martín de Luiña (Cudillero). This folklore festival’ great day is on the 16th of August whe- A traditional market with local products and a varied sample re Llanes council folklore bands perform some traditional of crafts and traditional games, which ends with a bovine dances. wedding. San Roque Festival, in Tineo. Intercelticu L’Occidente Festival in Tapia de Casariego. A Vaqueiro (migrating herdsmen from the mountains of Astu- A reference point in Celtic music, a must-visit for lovers of folk rias and Leon) festival takes place in San Roque fi eld. A folklo- music. But if there is anything that makes this festival special re festival where dances, songs and customs are presented it is its natural stage on the Murallón beach, a spectacular na- while worshipping the Saint on the 16th. tural amphitheatre with the sea as a backdrop Asturcón Festival, in the Sueve (Piloña). Oles Traditional Market, Villaviciosa Asturcon horse dressage takes place in the middle of a festive A market re-enacted with the entire traditional Asturian es- atmosphere where the new born are marked and the Senior sence, with performances of theatre groups, comedians and Sueve Shepherd is appointed. all kinds of craftsmanship. There are samples of crafts and San Pedrín de la Cueva Festival, in Nárzana (). traditional work: black amber, clogs, wood, pottery and ce- On the 19th, the festival day, the Saint is taken out in a pro- ramics. cession from the chapel where it is located to a natural cave. First Disembark of Charles V in Tazones, Villaviciosa San Timoteo, in Luarca (Valdés). Re-enactment made of the disembark of Emperor Charles I of On the 22nd of August in the morning, rockets and fi recrackers are Spain and V of Germany at the Port of Tazones (Villaviciosa) ignited. Clubs, charangas, and bagpipe bands go on a procession in 1517 and of the welcoming aff orded to the king and his to the fi eld of San Timoteo. All villagers wear typical local costu- entourage by the local people. Every year the neighbours of mes: a loose shirt, a cane and a bread T hanging on the neck. Tazones, aided by the Contraste theatre group, are in charge Folklore Descent of Nalón River, in Pola de . of representing the arrival of such an illustrious fi gure with The Folklore Descent of the Nalon River takes place at the representations of everyday life and crafts, music, traditional same time as the local patron saint festivals on the last wee- games, the market, etc. kend of August. Contestants are dressed up in costumes and go down the river on vessels built up by them. Casín Cheese Contest, in Caso. This contest is held at the Arnicio hill (Caso) on the last weekend of August. There are tastings, and workshops to learn how this cheese awarded with Protected Designation of Origin symbol. Asturias People’s Day , in Navelgas (Tineo). It is a brotherhood festival which recalls old harvesting tra- ditions. People from every village enjoy folklore bands and charangas, bands and the most varied gastronomy. Cabrales Cheese Contest, in Las Arenas (Cabrales). Cabrales cheese exhibitions and demonstrations of how it is produced. The event is amused by folklore bands. La Regalina, in Cadavedo (Valdés). This festival was created in 1931 as an expression of Asturian folklore, customs and traditions to honour the Virgin whose image was found in a place called Riégala or Regla. It is held on the last weekend of August. Cider Festival, in Gijón. Held on the last weekend of August, this festival focuses on the most popular beverage in Asturias and attempts to beat the Guinness record of simultaneous “escanciado” (the art of pouring cider) every year. Nuestra Señora de Andrín Festival, in Llanes

#asturias #culture 35 oCtober Hazelnut Festival, in Infi esto (Piloña). This festival is held at the beginning of October. It is halfway a festival and gastronomic event focused on this dry fruit. Apple Festival, in Villaviciosa. It is held on the closest weekend to Columbus Day. It involves visiting Apple fi elds, tasting cider and apples and attending to exhibitions among other activities. It takes place on odd Virgen de la Guía Festival, in Llanes. years. Festival of Cangas Quality Wine Harvest, in Cangas del Narcea sePteMber This popular and religious festival of the Virgen del Acebo Virgen de la Guía Festival, in Llanes. takes place at the end of grape harvest during the previous Patron Saint festivals held on the 8th ofSeptember in which week to Hispanidad festival. the night procession of the Virgen de la Guía image stands Cheese Competition of Gamoneo in Benia (Onís). out. Sale, sample, exhibition and tasting of traditional cheeses. Festival of Nuestra Señora de El Carbayu, in Langreo The cheese shops and producers of the area compete for the Popular celebration whose important day is 8, which is dedi- Prize for variety and the Gamonéu del Valle Prize. cated to the Virgin of El Carbayu and can enjoy religious and recreational activities for all ages and tastes. noveMber America’s Day in Asturias, in Oviedo. Magic Night and Esfoyón and Amagosto Festival, in Na- On the 19th, a fl oat parade takes places long the main streets velgas (Tineo). of the city in order to pay a tribute to all those who emigrated It is meant to recover traditions such as esfoyón (to pluck to America together with folklore bands as part of local San corncob) and Amagüestu (roasted chestnuts), duerno sider Mateo festival. (cider of pressed apples that still has yet to ferment), old for- Santos Mártires de Valdecuna pilgrimage (Mieres). ge working, craftsmen working (mangueiros, wooden shoe- Those taken part in the pilgrimage go up to the Martyrs cha- makers, etc, ...) pel (San Cosme and San Damián) on the festival day. There, Turnip Festival, in Sotrondio (S. Martín del Rey Aurelio). they attend to mass and to the public auction of the “ramu” One may taste diff erent menus based on turnip at the diff e- and have an outdoor meal. It is celebrated on the 27th. rent associated restaurants. Rallye Princess of Asturias, several councils. Humanitarian Festival, in Moreda (Aller). This car race takes places around many parts of Asturias. Nu- Chanted mass amused by bagpipes. After mass, there is a merous local and national supporters follow it. fl oat parade where participants are dressed up in local cos- Fiesta of the Santo Cristo del Amparo in Nueva (Llanes). tumes. Village and porruano passacaglias go through the streets in Stuff ed Onion Festival, in El Entrego (S. Martín del Rey search of bands to accompany in the procession to the Saint, Aurelio). which ends with the traditional and outstanding dance of Menus based on stuff ed onions can be tasted at diff erent res- Christ on the “prau” of the Fiesta. taurants.

36 #asturias #culture Rock Art: facilities and caves to be visited

In asturias, caves housing pre-historic art can be visited Tito Bustillo Cave La Loja Cave deep inside thus bringing Tito Bustillo Rock Art Centre La Loja cave Didactic Centre back the magic of these Ribadesella. Avenida de Tito Bustillo. Peñamellera Baja. El Mazo places our ancestors turned Phones: +34 985 185 583 / +34 985 861 255 Phones: +34 985 414 417 / +34 676 128 176 into sanctuaries. www.centrotitobustillo.com Pindal Cave Teverga Pre Historical Park Information Centre Teverga. San Salvador de Alesga Ribadedeva. Pimiango Phones: +34 985 185 583 / +34 985-764-739 Ctra Mirador del Picu al Faro. www.parquedelaprehistoria.es Phone: +34 608 175 284 (Guide)

Peña de Candamo Cave La Lluera Cave Candamo Cave Information Centre Oviedo. Priorio Candamo. San Román Phones: +34 674 800 385 Phones: +34 985 829 702 (information www.cuevasdelalluera.com Center) / +34 985 828 056 (Town Hall) www.ayto-candamo.es Cueva Conde y Abrigo de Santo Adriano Santo Adriano. Tuñón Buxu Cave Phones: +34 637 061 610 / +34 985 761 403 Cangas de Onís. Cardes www.laponte.org Phone: +34 608 175 467 Ardines Cave Peruyal Cave Ribadesella. Avda. de Tito Bustillo Glacial Wildlife Information Centre Phone: +34 902 306 600 / 985 861 255 Onís. Avin - Benia www.centrotitobustillo.com Information at Glacial Wildlife information Centre. Phone: +34 616 212 483

#asturias #culture 37 Asturian Pre Romanesque

visit the Pre romanesque Asturian Pre Romanesque Information San Miguel de Lillo Church monuments is immersed in and Welcome Centre Oviedo. Monte Naranco a time of kings and legends Oviedo. Antiguas escuelas del Naranco Phone: +34 638 260 163 (Guide) that shaped the Kingdom of Phones: +34 985 114 901 / +34 902 306 600 asturias. www.centroprerromanicoasturiano.com San Julián de los Prados Church Oviedo. C / , 2 Pre-Romanesque Museun of Santianes Phone: +34 687 052 826 (Guide) de Pravia Pravia. Santianes Holy Chamber and Gothic Cloister of the Phone: +34 985 821 204 (Tourist Offi ce). Cathedral Oviedo. Pza. Alfonso II (Cathedral inside) Pre-Romanesque Museum of San Martín Phones: +34 985 219 642 / +34 985 203 117 de Salas (Museum). Salas. Plaza de la Campa Phone: +34 985 830 988 (Tourist Offi ce) / Santa Cristina de Lena + 34 985 830 004 (Ayuntamiento) Lena. La Cobertoria Phones: +34 985 497 608 / +34 609 942 153 Basilica of San Juan (Santianes de Pravia) (housekeeper) Pravia. Santianes Phone: +34 985 821 204 (Tourist Offi ce) La Cobertoria Asturian Pre Romanesque www.museoprerromanico.com Didactic Centre Lena .La Cobertoria Santo Adriano Church Phone: +34 985 497 606 Santo Adriano. Tuñón Phones: +34 622 643 317 / +34 985 761 403 San Salvador de Valdediós Church www.laponte.org (convent and monastery) Villaviciosa. Valdediós Santa María del Naranco Phone: +34 670 242 372 (Guide) Oviedo. Monte Naranco Phone: +34 638 260 163 (Guide) Santiago de Gobiendes Church Colunga. de Sales. Gobiendes Foncalada Fountain Phone: +34 655 809 773 / +34 985 869 043 Oviedo (Guardesa) C/ Foncalada, corner with C/ Gascona

38 #asturias #culture The World of Art

a whole universe of artistic Fine Arts Museum of Asturias Nicanor Piñole Museum creativity is refl ected in Oviedo. C/Santa Ana, 1-3 Gijón. Plaza de Europa, 28 asturias. Phones: +34 985 213 061 Phone: +34 985 359 594 / +34 985 185 152 www.museobbaa.com http://museos.gijon.es

Langreo Municipal Art Gallery - Eduardo Juan Barjola Museum Úrculo Gijón. C / Trinidad, 17 Langreo. C /La Unión, 31 Phone: +34 985 357 939 Phone: +34 984 182 858 www.museobarjola.es www.langreo.as Candá Sculpture Center Antón Museum Evaristo Valle Museum Carreño. Pza. del Cueto. Candás Gijón. Camino de Cabueñes, 261. Somió Phone: +34 985 871 800 Phone: +34 985 334 000 www.museoanton.com www.evaristovalle.com Laboral Art and Industrial Creation Jovellanos Museum (the house where he Centre was born) Gijón. Los Prados, 121 Gijón. Pza. Jovellanos Phone: +34 985 185 577 Phone: +34 985 185 152 www.laboralcentrodearte.org http://museos.gijon.es

#asturias #culture 39 The Legacy of History

human activity has been Archaeological Museum of Asturias Chao Samartín Museum and Iron-Age developing in asturias for Oviedo. C / San Vicente, 3-5 Castros millenniums. Telephone: +34 985 208 977 . Castro the history of asturias at www.museoarqueologicodeasturias.com Phone: +34 985 627 143 hand. www.chaosamartin.es Campo Valdés Roman Baths www.parquehistorico.org Gijón. Campo Valdés s/n Phone: +34 985 185 151 Peña Tú Idol http://museos.gijon.es Llanes. Puertas de Vidiago Phone: +34 664 382 026 (Tourism Offi ce) Veranes Roman Villa Gijón. St. Maria de Veranes Campa Torres Natural Archaeological Phones: +34 985 185 129 / +34 629 755 409 Park http://museos.gijon.es Gijón. Ctra. Campa de Torres Phone: +34 985 185 234 Coaña Iron-Age Castro Didactic Centre http://museos.gijon.es Coaña. Villacondide Phone: +34 985 978 401 Valduno Romans Baths www.parquehistorico.org Las Regueras. Valduno www.caminrealdelamesa.es/turismo/es/ museos

40 #asturias #culture Tradition and Ethnography

the great ethnographical Ethnographic Museum of Asturian Vaqueiro (Cow-boy) Museum (MUVAS) richness and uniqueness People Tineo. Naraval of asturias allows opening Gijón. Paseo Doctor Fleming, 877 Phone: +34 677 896 992 museums where traditions Phones: +34 985 182 960 / +34 985 182 963 www.muvas.es are alive. http://museos.gijon.es www.redmeda.com www.redmeda.com Somiedo Ethnographic Museum Grandas de Salime Ethnographic Somiedo. Caunedo Museum Phones: +34 985 763 984 / +34 985 763 652 Grandas de Salime. Avda. El Ferreiro www.caminrealdelamesa.es/turismo/es/museos Phone: +34 985 627 243 www.redmeda.com www.museodegrandas.com www.redmeda.com Grado Ethnographic Museum Grado. Finca “La Cardosa” Ethnographic Museum - Marquis of Phone: +34 985 752 277 Sargadelos House www.redmeda.com . Ferrereila de Baxo Phone: +34 985 621 295 / +34 985 626 032 Ethnographic Museum of Quirós and (Town Hall) Municipality www.redmeda.com San Salvador, AS-229, pk. 8,4. Phones: +34 985 768 160 “Juan Pérez Villamil” Ethnographic Reservations: + 34 689 754 466 Museum and Entrance to the Historical www.quiros.es/museo-etnografi co Park www.redmeda.com Navia. Phone: +34 985 648 805 www.parquehistorico.org www.redmeda.com

#asturias #culture 41

Ethnographic Museum of Llecheria Wood and Beekeeping Museum Morcín. C / Naveo, 31 – La Foz Caso. Veneros y Tanes Telephone: +34 985 795 222 / +34 985 795 461 Phone: +34 985 608 002 www.redmeda.com www.redmeda.com Prior Booking

Maritime Museum of Asturias Ethnographic Museum of Eastern Gozón. Luanco Asturias Telephone: +34 985 880 101 Llanes. Porrúa www.museomaritimodeasturias.com Phone: +34 985 402 547 www.redmeda.com www.porrua.net www.redmeda.com Cider Museum of Asturias Nava. Pza. Príncipe de Asturias Os Teixois Ethnographic Site Telephone: +34 985 717 422 . Teixois www.museodelasidra.com Phones: +34 985 979 684 / +34 608 248 913 www.redmeda.com www.osteixois.es

Rural School Museum Cangas Wine Museum Cabranes. Viñón Cangas del Narcea. de San Tiso Phone: +34 985 898 213 / +34 985 898 002 Phones: +34 984 497 009 / +34 680 148 012 (Town Hall) www.museovinocangas.com www.museodelaescuelarural.com www.redmeda.com

42 #asturias #culture Museums and Thematic Facilities asturias is full of facilities Jurassic Museum of Asturias (MUJA) Indiano Archive Foundation to be enjoyed. For further Colunga. Rosa de San Telmo Ribadedeva. Colombres information please visit Phones: +34 985 185 583 / +34 985 868 000 Phone: +34 985 412 005 www.turismoasturias.es www.museojurasicoasturias.com www.archivodeindianos.es and tourism offi ces of the Principality of asturias. Selgas Fagalde Foundation Bustiello Mining Village Information Cudillero. La Quinta (El Pito) Centre Phone: +34 985 590 120 Mieres. Bustiello www.selgas-fagalde.com – prior booking Phone: +34 985 422 185 www.territoriomuseo.com The Iron and Steel Museum (MUSI) Langreo. La Felguera Radio Museum Phone: +34 985 678 477 . Suares T www.museodelasiderurgia.es Phone: +34 985 700 004 http://casadelesradios.blogspot.com.es/ Railway Museum of Asturias Gijón. Pza. Estación del Norte Philippe Cousteau Anchor Museum Phone: +34 985 181 777 Castrillón. Salinas http://museos.gijon.es/ Phone: +34 985 502 163 - Free visit

Museum of Mining and Industry (MUMI) Valle de Samuño Mining Eco-Museum San Martín del Rey Aurelio. El Entrego Langreo. Ciaño Phone: +34 985 663 133 Phone: +34 984 082 215 www.mumi.es www.ecomuseominero.es

Gijon Aquarium Arnao Mine Museum Gijón. Playa de Poniente Castrillón. Arnao Phone: +34 985 185 220 Phone: +34 985 507 799 www.acuariodegijon.com www.museominadearnao.es

Atlantic Botanic Garden Interpretation Center of “el Hórreo” (the Gijón. Avenida Jardín Botánico granary) Phones: +34 985 185 130 / +34 985 185 131 Ribera de Arriba. Güeno / Bueño. www.botanicoatlantico.com Phone: +34 985 087 223 www.territoriomuseo.com Gold Museum of Asturias (MOA) Tineo. Navelgas Museum Fernando Alonso Phone: +34 985 806 018 Llanera.La Morgal. www.museodeloro.es Phone: +34 984 180 808 www.fernandoalonso.com/museo Urban History Museum of Avilés Avilés. Calle la Ferrería, 35 Pozo Sotón (Mining) Phone: +34 985 565 512 San Martín del Rey Aurelio. Sotón, www.avilescultura.com/es/Museos-y-Patrimonio Phones: +34 985 661 944 / +34 630 119 642 www.visitapozosoton.es / www.cemmineria.es

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