January 22, 1990 : Checklist
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EUROPEAN TEXTILE MASTERPIECES FROM COPTIC TIMES THROUGH THE l 9TH CENTURY September 27 - January 22, 1990 Checklist EUROPEAN TEXTILE MASTERPIECES FROM COPTIC TIMES THROUGH THE 19TH CENTURY 5th-7th Centuries WEAVING Portion of a Hanging showing Figure of a Warrior Egypt, Coptic; 5th-6th century Linen and wool, plain weave with weft uncut pile and embroidered linen pile formed by variations in back and stem stitches Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1982.1578 Two Border Fragments Egypt, found in Akhmim; 5th-6th century Silk, complementary twill weave with inner warps Kate S. Buckingham Endowment, 1984.528ab Fragment Egypt, found in Akhmim; 6th-7th century Silk, complementary weft twill weave with inner warps Kate S. Buckingham Endowment, 1984.529 12th-13th Century WEAVING Fragment Italy, 13th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, twill weave with plain and twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning and brocading wefts (detached on reverse) Purchased from The Field Museum of Natural History, 1907.900 Fragment Italy, 13th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, plain weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning and brocading wefts Purchased from The Field Museum of Natural History, 1907.329 Fragment Italy or Spain, 13th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, complementary weft twill weave with inner warps Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1976.335 Fragment Italy or Spain, 13th century Silk, complementary weft twill weave with inner warps Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1976.336 Masterpieces Checklist page two Fragment Italy or Spain, 13th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, complementary weft twill weave with inner warps Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1976.341 Fragment from Dalmatic of San Valero Found in a tomb at the Cathedral of Lerida Spain, 13th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped silk, complementary weft plain weave with inner warps Gift of Martin A. Ryerson through The Antiquarian Society of The Art Institute of Chicago, 1916.379 Fragment from Dalmatic of San Valero Found in a tomb at the Cathedral of Lerida Spain, 13th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped silk, complementary weft plain weave with inner warps and areas of detached plain interlacings of inner warps and complementary ground wefts (blue) Restricted gift of Mrs. Potter Palmer, Mrs. Richard T. Crane, Mrs. Howell B. Erminger, Jr., and Miss Florence D. Bartlett, 1945.167 Fragment from the Vestment of Abbot Arnoldo Ramon de Biure of San Cugat de Valles, Barcelona Spain, Burgos; 13th century Silk, linen, and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, complementary weft twill weave with inner warps Gift of Martin A. Ryerson through The Antiquarian Society of The Art Institute of Chicago, 1916.377 Fragment Spain, 13th century Silk, linen, and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, complementary weft twill weave with inner warps Purchased from The Field Museum of Natural History, 1907.806 Fragment Spain, 13th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped silk, complementary weft plain weave with inner warps Gift of Mrs. Chauncey B. Borland, 1945.195 Fragment Kufic inscription meaning "Glory to our Lord the Sultan" Spain, 13th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped silk, satin weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts Restricted gift of Mrs. Edwin A. Seipp, 1950.1149 Masterpieces Checklist page three Fragment Spain, 13th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped silk, complementary weft twill weave with inner warps Restricted gift of Mrs. Chauncey B. Borland, 1953.305 Fragment Spain, 13th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, bands of complementary weft twill weave with inner warps Kate S. Buckingham Endowment, 1984.523a Fragment Possibly Spain, 13th century Silk, linen, and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, complementary weft twill weave with inner warps Purchased from The Field Museum of Natural History, 1907.540 Fragment from Mantle of Dona Leonora, wife of Don Felipe Found in a tomb a Villacazar de Sirga, near Palencia Kufic inscription meaning "Blessing" Spain, late 13th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped silk, bands of plain weave with inner warps and complementary weft plain weave with inner warps Restricted gift of Mrs. Chauncey B. Borland, 1950.1150 Fragment from Garment of Don Felipe Found in a tomb at Villacazar de Sirga, near Palencia Kufic inscription meaning "Praise be to God" Spain, late 13th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, bands of plain weave, plain weave self-patterned by main warp and ground weft floats, and complementary weft weave Restricted gift of Mrs. Walter Byron Smith, 1951.254 13th-14th Century WEAVING Fragment Italy, 13th-14th century Silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, warp chevron twill weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning and brocading wefts (detached on reverse) Gift of Mrs. Chauncey B. Borland, 1958.521 Two Fragments Italy or Spain, 13th-14th century Silk and linen, complementary weft twill weave with inner warps Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1976.342ab Masterpieces Checklist page four Fragment Spain, 13th-14th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped silk, complementary weft plain weave with inner warps and areas of detached plain interlacings of inner warps and complementary ground wefts (red) Restricted gift of Mrs. Walter Byron Smith, 1950.1 Two Fragments Italy, 14th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, twill weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning and brocading wefts (detached on reverse) Purchased from The Field Museum of Natural History, 1907.543ab Fragment Italy, 14th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, twill weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts (detached on reverse) Restricted gift of Mrs. Horace O. Wetmore, Mrs. James M. Hopkins, Mrs. Edwin A. Seipp, Mrs. Howell B. Erminger, Jr., Mrs. Walter B. Smith, Mrs. Gustavus F. Swift, Col. R. R. McCormick, and The Chicago Club, 1965.771 Fragment Italy, 14th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, plain weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning and brocading wefts Kate S. Buckingham Endowment, 1984.527 Fragment Italy or Spain, 14th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, complementary weft, weft chevron twill weave with inner warps Kate S. Buckingham Endowment, 1984.526 Fragment Italy, mid-14th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, satin weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts (detached on reverse) Hugh and Mary Adams Endowment, 1968.780 Fragment Italy, mid-14th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, twill weave with plain and twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning and brocading wefts (detached on reverse) Restricted gift of Mr. and Mrs. John V. Farwell III, 1962.459 Masterpieces Checklist page five Fragment Italy, mid-14th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, twill weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts (detached on reverse) Restricted gift of Mr. and Mrs. John V. Farwell III, 1962.460 Fragment Italy, mid-14th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, twill weave with plain and twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning and brocading wefts (detached on reverse) Restricted gift of Mrs. Horace O. Wetmore, Mrs. James M. Hopkins, Mrs. Edwin A. Seipp, Mrs. Howell B. Erminger, Jr., Mrs. Walter B. Smith, Mrs. Gustavus F. Swift, Col. R.R. McCormick, and The Chicago Club, 1965.770 Fragment Italy, mid-14th century Silk, plain weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterningwefts Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1976.338 Fragment Latin inscription: "Grifone" ("Griffin") Italy, mid-14th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, plain weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning and brocading wefts Kate S. Buckingham Endowment, 1984.525 Fragment Italy, mid-14th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, twill weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts (detached on reverse) Restricted gift of Mr. and Mrs. John V. Farwell III, 1962.458 Fragment Italy, 1350-1400 Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, twill weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts (detached on reverse) Restricted gift of Mr. and Mrs. John V. Farwell III, 1961.1195 Fragment Italy, 1350-1400 Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped cotton, twill weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts Restricted gift of Mr. and Mrs. John V. Farwell III, 1961.1196 Masterpieces Checklist page six Fragment Italy, second half of 14th century Silk, plain weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1976.337 Two Fragments Italy, second half of 14th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, plain weave with plain and twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts; embellished with pigment on paper forms affixed with wax Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1976.340a,b Fragment Italy, last third or second half of 14th century Silk, twill weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts (detached on reverse) Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment,