EUROPEAN TEXTILE MASTERPIECES

FROM COPTIC TIMES THROUGH

THE l 9TH CENTURY

September 27 - January 22, 1990

Checklist EUROPEAN TEXTILE MASTERPIECES FROM COPTIC TIMES THROUGH THE 19TH CENTURY

5th-7th Centuries

WEAVING

Portion of a Hanging showing Figure of a Warrior Egypt, Coptic; 5th-6th century Linen and wool, plain weave with weft uncut pile and embroidered linen pile formed by variations in back and stem stitches Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1982.1578

Two Border Fragments Egypt, found in Akhmim; 5th-6th century Silk, complementary twill weave with inner warps Kate S. Buckingham Endowment, 1984.528ab

Fragment Egypt, found in Akhmim; 6th-7th century Silk, complementary weft twill weave with inner warps Kate S. Buckingham Endowment, 1984.529

12th-13th Century

WEAVING

Fragment Italy, 13th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, twill weave with plain and twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning and brocading wefts (detached on reverse) Purchased from The Field Museum of Natural History, 1907.900

Fragment Italy, 13th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, plain weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning and brocading wefts Purchased from The Field Museum of Natural History, 1907.329

Fragment Italy or Spain, 13th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, complementary weft twill weave with inner warps Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1976.335

Fragment Italy or Spain, 13th century Silk, complementary weft twill weave with inner warps Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1976.336 Masterpieces Checklist page two

Fragment Italy or Spain, 13th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, complementary weft twill weave with inner warps Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1976.341

Fragment from Dalmatic of San Valero Found in a tomb at the Cathedral of Lerida Spain, 13th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped silk, complementary weft plain weave with inner warps Gift of Martin A. Ryerson through The Antiquarian Society of The Art Institute of Chicago, 1916.379

Fragment from Dalmatic of San Valero Found in a tomb at the Cathedral of Lerida Spain, 13th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped silk, complementary weft plain weave with inner warps and areas of detached plain interlacings of inner warps and complementary ground wefts (blue) Restricted gift of Mrs. Potter Palmer, Mrs. Richard T. Crane, Mrs. Howell B. Erminger, Jr., and Miss Florence D. Bartlett, 1945.167

Fragment from the Vestment of Abbot Arnoldo Ramon de Biure of San Cugat de Valles, Barcelona Spain, Burgos; 13th century Silk, linen, and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, complementary weft twill weave with inner warps Gift of Martin A. Ryerson through The Antiquarian Society of The Art Institute of Chicago, 1916.377

Fragment Spain, 13th century Silk, linen, and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, complementary weft twill weave with inner warps Purchased from The Field Museum of Natural History, 1907.806

Fragment Spain, 13th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped silk, complementary weft plain weave with inner warps Gift of Mrs. Chauncey B. Borland, 1945.195

Fragment Kufic inscription meaning "Glory to our Lord the Sultan" Spain, 13th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped silk, satin weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts Restricted gift of Mrs. Edwin A. Seipp, 1950.1149 Masterpieces Checklist page three

Fragment Spain, 13th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped silk, complementary weft twill weave with inner warps Restricted gift of Mrs. Chauncey B. Borland, 1953.305

Fragment Spain, 13th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, bands of complementary weft twill weave with inner warps Kate S. Buckingham Endowment, 1984.523a

Fragment Possibly Spain, 13th century Silk, linen, and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, complementary weft twill weave with inner warps Purchased from The Field Museum of Natural History, 1907.540

Fragment from Mantle of Dona Leonora, wife of Don Felipe Found in a tomb a Villacazar de Sirga, near Palencia Kufic inscription meaning "Blessing" Spain, late 13th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped silk, bands of plain weave with inner warps and complementary weft plain weave with inner warps Restricted gift of Mrs. Chauncey B. Borland, 1950.1150

Fragment from Garment of Don Felipe Found in a tomb at Villacazar de Sirga, near Palencia Kufic inscription meaning "Praise be to God" Spain, late 13th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, bands of plain weave, plain weave self-patterned by main warp and ground weft floats, and complementary weft weave Restricted gift of Mrs. Walter Byron Smith, 1951.254

13th-14th Century

WEAVING

Fragment Italy, 13th-14th century Silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, warp chevron twill weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning and brocading wefts (detached on reverse) Gift of Mrs. Chauncey B. Borland, 1958.521

Two Fragments Italy or Spain, 13th-14th century Silk and linen, complementary weft twill weave with inner warps Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1976.342ab Masterpieces Checklist page four

Fragment Spain, 13th-14th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped silk, complementary weft plain weave with inner warps and areas of detached plain interlacings of inner warps and complementary ground wefts (red) Restricted gift of Mrs. Walter Byron Smith, 1950.1

Two Fragments Italy, 14th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, twill weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning and brocading wefts (detached on reverse) Purchased from The Field Museum of Natural History, 1907.543ab

Fragment Italy, 14th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, twill weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts (detached on reverse) Restricted gift of Mrs. Horace O. Wetmore, Mrs. James M. Hopkins, Mrs. Edwin A. Seipp, Mrs. Howell B. Erminger, Jr., Mrs. Walter B. Smith, Mrs. Gustavus F. Swift, Col. R. R. McCormick, and The Chicago Club, 1965.771

Fragment Italy, 14th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, plain weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning and brocading wefts Kate S. Buckingham Endowment, 1984.527

Fragment Italy or Spain, 14th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, complementary weft, weft chevron twill weave with inner warps Kate S. Buckingham Endowment, 1984.526

Fragment Italy, mid-14th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, satin weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts (detached on reverse) Hugh and Mary Adams Endowment, 1968.780

Fragment Italy, mid-14th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, twill weave with plain and twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning and brocading wefts (detached on reverse) Restricted gift of Mr. and Mrs. John V. Farwell III, 1962.459 Masterpieces Checklist page five

Fragment Italy, mid-14th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, twill weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts (detached on reverse) Restricted gift of Mr. and Mrs. John V. Farwell III, 1962.460

Fragment Italy, mid-14th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, twill weave with plain and twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning and brocading wefts (detached on reverse) Restricted gift of Mrs. Horace O. Wetmore, Mrs. James M. Hopkins, Mrs. Edwin A. Seipp, Mrs. Howell B. Erminger, Jr., Mrs. Walter B. Smith, Mrs. Gustavus F. Swift, Col. R.R. McCormick, and The Chicago Club, 1965.770

Fragment Italy, mid-14th century Silk, plain weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterningwefts Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1976.338

Fragment Latin inscription: "Grifone" ("Griffin") Italy, mid-14th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, plain weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning and brocading wefts Kate S. Buckingham Endowment, 1984.525

Fragment Italy, mid-14th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, twill weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts (detached on reverse) Restricted gift of Mr. and Mrs. John V. Farwell III, 1962.458

Fragment Italy, 1350-1400 Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, twill weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts (detached on reverse) Restricted gift of Mr. and Mrs. John V. Farwell III, 1961.1195

Fragment Italy, 1350-1400 Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped cotton, twill weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts Restricted gift of Mr. and Mrs. John V. Farwell III, 1961.1196 Masterpieces Checklist page six

Fragment Italy, second half of 14th century Silk, plain weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1976.337

Two Fragments Italy, second half of 14th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, plain weave with plain and twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts; embellished with pigment on paper forms affixed with wax Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1976.340a,b

Fragment Italy, last third or second half of 14th century Silk, twill weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts (detached on reverse) Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1976.339

F.ragment Egypt, Mamluk; late 14th century Silk, twill weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1983.746

Fragment Egypt, Mamluk; late 14th century Silk, twill weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1983.747

NEEDLEWORK

Portion from an Antependium showing The Last Supper Germany, 1300-1310 Linen, plain weave; pulled-thread work embroidered with silk and linen in chained border, overcast, and two-sided Italian cross stitches; embroidered with silk and linen in satin, single satin, stem, and stem filling stitches; couching; edged with silk, plain weave Purchased from The Field Museum of Natural History, 1907.765

Panel Germany, Lower Saxony; 1350-1375 Linen, plain weave; embroidered with linen and silk in crossed back and stem stitches Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1985.66 Masterpieces Checklist page seven

WEAVING - PRINTED

Fragment Europe, 1840; based on 12th-13th century woven design Silk, plain weave; block printed Kate S. Buckingham Endowment, 1984.524

14th-15th Century

WEAVING

Fragment Egypt, Mamluk; 14th-15th century Silk, satin weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts Restricted gift of Mr. and Mrs. John V. Farwell III, 1982.1461

Fragment Egypt, Mamluk; 14th-15th century Silk, twill weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts Restricted gift of Mr. and Mrs. John V. Farwell III, 1982.1462

Fragment Spain, 14th-15th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped silk, satin weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts Restricted gift of Mrs. Edwin A. Seipp, 1953.304

Panel Italy, early 15th century Silk, plain weave, cut solid velvet Kate S. Buckingham Endowment, 1954.12

Fragment Italy, probably Venice, early 15th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, twill weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts Gift of mrs. Charles H. Worcester, 1940.926

Fragment showing Coat-of-Arms of Gyr family Germany, Cologne; 14th century Hemp, wool, and linen, complementary weft twill weave with inner warps Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1976.334

Towel Italy, Perugia; 15th century Linen, bands of diamond twill weave, plain weave, and plain weave with patterning wefts Gift of The Antiquarian Society of The Art Institute of Chicago, 1899.8 Masterpieces Checklist page eight

Fragment Spain or Italy, 15th century Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, satin weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps, patterning wefts, and ground wefts Gift of Alastair Bradley Martin, 1952.1252

Two Fragments Kufic inscription meaning "We are Worthy of Pleasure" Spain, 15th century Silk, satin weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts Restricted gift of The Needlework and Textile Guild of Chicago, 1945.216a,b

Fragment Spain, 15th century Silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, satin weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts Restricted gift of Mrs. Chauncey B. Borland, 1951.253

Fragment Spain, 15th century Silk, satin weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts Restricted goft of Mrs. Chauncey B. Borland, 1952.254

Portion of a Chasuble Probably made for Piero Soderini (1430-1513) Latin inscription: Justus ut (Palma) Florebit (May Justice Florish Like the Palm) Italy, probably Florence; second half of 15th century Silk, satin weave, cut solid velvet Gift of Martin A. Ryerson through The Antiquarian Society of The Art Institute of Chicago, 1895.847

Portion of a Chasuble Italy, second half of 15th century Silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, satin weave with brocading wefts, cut voided velvet Kate S. Buckingham Endowment, 1966.432

Altar Frontal Italy, second half of 15th century Silk, twill weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk facing wefts forming weft loops in areas, cut, pile-on-pile voided velvet Kate S. Buckingham Endowment, 1944.403 Masterpieces Checklist page nine

Panel Italy, late 15th century Silk, plain weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk facing wefts forming weft loops in areas, cut, pile-on-pile voided velvet

Ex-collection: Charles Deering Gift of Mrs. Chauncey McCormick and Mrs. Richard Ely Danielson, 1948.143b Hanging entitled "The Lovers" , ,, German inscription: ICH SPILUCH IN TRUWE/DES SOL UCH NIEMER RUWEN (I play faithfully with you (in fidelity) may you never be sorry) Switzerland, about 1490 Linen, wool, and silk, slit and double interlocking tapestry weave Ex-collections: Henry C. Lawrence; Lucy Maud Buckingham Gift of Kate S. Buckingham, 1922.5378

WEAVING - CARPET

Carpet made for the Convent of Santa Clara of Palencia, Old Castile, upon the order of Fadrique Enriquez, Admiral of Castile, and his wife, Marina de Ayala Spain, Hispano-Moresque; about 1450 Wool, plain weave with "Spanish knot" cut pile Ex-collection: Charles Deering Gift of Mrs. Richard Ely Danielson, 1964.1095

NEEDLEWORK

uble Front with Orphrey Cross uble: Italy, Florence; 15th century Orphrey Cross: Bohemia or Germany, first half of 15th century . Chasuble: silk, plain weave with silk facing wefts, twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk facing wefts, forming weft loops in areas, cut pile-on-pile voided velvet; Orphrey Cross: linen, plain weave; embroidered with silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk in bullion, outline, satin, and split stitches; laid work, couching, and padded couching; edged with woven fringe and tapes Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1980.615

Hanging entitled "The Holy Family" Flanders, early 16th century Linen, wool, silk, and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, slit tapestry weave Ex-collection: Frederic Spitzer Bequest of Mr. and Mrs. Martin A. Ryerson, 1937.1097 Masterpieces Checklist page ten

Hang g showing the Risen Christ with Mary Magdalene L in inscription: Noli Me Tangere (Do not touch me) Flanders, early 16th century Wool, silk, and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, slit tapestry weave Ex-collection: Frederic Spitzer Bequest of Mr. and Mrs. Martin A. Ryerson, 1937.1098 Hangingentitled "The Annunciation" Made for Francesco Gonzaga, Duke of Mantua Attributed to artists of the Court of Mantua Italy, 1506-1519 Wool, silk, and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, slit, dovetail, and interlocking tapestry weave Bequest of Mr. and Mrs. Martin A. Ryerson, 1937.1099

Panel Italy, early 16th century Silk, satin ,damask weave with brocading wefts Restricted gift of Mrs. Paul Magnuson, Mrs. Howell B. Erminger, Jr., Mrs. James Hopkins, Mrs. Walter B. Smith, Mrs. Chauncey B. Borland, Mrs. Stanley G. Harris, Mrs. Joseph T. Ryerson, and Mrs. Richard T. Crane, 1947.429

Portion from an Altar Frontal Inscription: I H S Italy, first quarter of 16th century Silk, plain weave with silk facing wefts, twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk patterning and brocading wefts, forming weft loops in areas, cut voided velvet; edged with woven and knotted fringe Restricted gift of Mrs. Tiffany Blake, 1960.776

Panel Italy, about 1525 Silk and gilt-metal wire, twill weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and facing and patterning wefts Belle M. Borland Endowment, 1984.82

Panel Italy, 16th century Silk, satin damask weave Restricted gift of Mrs. Chauncey B. Borland; Textile Purchase Account, 1971.649

Fragment showing Emblem of Chigi Family of Sienna Italy, 16th century Silk and gilt metal strips, plain weave with patterning wefts Restricted gift of Mr. and Mrs. John V. Farwell III, 1973.308

Back of Chasuble Italy or Spain, 16th century Silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, twill weave with gilt metal wire facing wefts and twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning and brocading wefts forming weft loops in areas Gift of Martin A. Ryerson through The Antiquarian Society of The Art Institute of Chicago, 1911.356 Masterpieces Checklist page eleven

NEEDLEWORK

Pillow Cover showing The Annunciation Latin inscription: Ave Maria Gratia Plena Dominus Tecum (Hail Mary Full of Grace, The Lord is with Thee) Southern Germany (Swabia) or Switzerland, mid to second half of 16th century Linen, plain weave; embroidered with silk and wool in satin stitches; couching Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1982.16

Panel England, 16th century Linen, plain weave; embroidered with silk, gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, and metal pailettes in Algerian eye, back, buttonhole, open buttonhole filling, chain, double running, running, overcast, plaited braid, and square openwork stitches; laid work, couching, and woven wheels Ex-collection: The Right Honorable Earl of Abingdon Gift of Mrs. Chauncey B. Borland, 1955.1221

Man's Cap England, late 16th century Linen, plain weave; embroidered with silk, gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, and metal pailettes in ladder and stem stitches; couching, buttonholed couching; edged with bobbin lace Gift of Mrs. Emily Crane Chadbourne, 1931.261

Altar Frontal with Scenes from the Life of Christ Made for the Cathedral Seo de Urgel Spain, Lerida Province; late 16th century Silk, broken warp chevron twill weave, cut solid velvet; appliqued with: linen, plain weave; silk and gilt wire, plain weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts; and silk and gilt wire, twill weave; embroidered in satin, padded satin, split, and stem stitches; couching and padded couching; semi-precious stones; edged with woven fringes Restricted gift of Mrs. Chauncey McCormick and Mrs. Ricbard Ely Danielson, 1944.623

16th-17th Centuries

WEAVING

Panel Italy, 16th-17th century Silk and linen, satin weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1984.999 Masterpieces Checklist page twelve

Panel Italy, late 16th-early 17th century Silk, plain weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts Restricted gift of Miss Louise Lutz, 1982.12

Table Carpet Probably Southern Germany, Wurttemberg; 1600-1610 Linen, plain weave; embroidered with wool, silk, and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk in cross, half cross, plaited, and tent stitches Emily Crane Chadbourne Endowment, 1968.162

Panel from the Davanzati Palace Italy, Florence; about 1625 Silk, twill weave with gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk facing wefts forming weft loops in areas and bound by secondary binding warps, cut voided velvet Restricted gift of The Laurance H. Armour, Jr. and Margot B. Armour Family Foundation; The Textile Society of The Art Institute of Chicago, 1984.83

Panel Italy, about 1630 Silk, satin weave, cut and uncut voided velvet Belle M. Borland Endowment, 1983.741

Panel Inscriptions: I H S; FABRIX; FPAP (each repeated twice) Probably Southern Netherlands; 17th century Linen and wool, complementary weft twill weave with inner warps Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1986.9

Fragment Italy, 17th century Silk and linen, plain weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts Gift of Martin A. Ryerson, 1895.646

Panel Macao, 17th century Silk, satin weave self-patterned by ground wefts bound in twill interlacings Restricted gift of John Maxon and John Keefe in honor of Mildred Davison, 1975.173 Maste.rpieces Checklist page thirteen

Hood from Cope, with Heraldic Attributes of Santiago, Castile, and Leon Spain, 17th century Silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, satin damask weave with brocading wefts Restricted gift of Mrs. Chauncey B. Borland, 1945.162

Panel showing Christ entering Jerusalem Denmark, Schleswig-Holstein; 17th century (became part of Germany in 1815) Linen and wool, plain weave, double cloth (Beiderwand) Bequest of Hans G. Cahen, 1984.1068

NEEDLEWORK

Border showing Noah's Ark Italian inscriptions: ANO (year); LARCA DI NOE (the ark of Noah); NOE (Noah); NEMANGA (untranslatable) Italy, late 16th-early 17th century Linen, plain weave; embroidered with silk in back, cross, and long-armed cross stitches Purchased from The Field Museum of Natural History, 1907.827

Woman's Coif (Unfinished) England, about 1600 Linen, plain weave; embroidered with silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk in back, individual back, bullion, chain, plaited braid, and stem stitches; buttonholed couching, darned wheels, and French knots Gift of Mrs. Chauncey B. Borland, 1948.90

One of a Pair of Cushion Covers Inscriptions: N W 1601 C W England, 1601 Linen, plain weave; embroidered with wool, silk, and linen in long-armed cross stitches; edged with wool and linen woven fringe Robert Allerton Endowment, 1989.149

Bedcover England, about 1620 Linen and cotton, twill weave; embroidered with wool in Algerian eye, back, individual back, crossed back, buttonhole, pearl, Roumanian, running, individual running, individual satin, stem, and two-sided Italian cross stitches; couching; edged with linen, silk, and wool, plain weave Robert Allerton Endowment, 1986.988

Man's Cap England, first quarter of 17th century Linen, plain weave; embroidered with silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk in a variety of buttonhole, chain, cretan, long-armed cross, ladder, outline, and running stitches; woven wheels Restricted gift of The Needlework and Textile Guild of Chicago; Saks Fifth Avenue Benefit Fund, 1983.742 Masterpieces Checklist page fourteen

Cover France, 1620-1630 Linen, 24 squares of square netting; embroidered in cloth, darning, and twined double running stitches; alternating with 24 squares of plain weave; cut and drawn work embroidered in cross, darning, interlocking lace, overcast, and satin stitches; knots, overcast bars, buttonholed, darned, and woven wheels; needle lace filling stitches; appliqued with plain weave and embroidered in back, bullion, cross, half cross, detached chain, double running, running, satin, single satin, surface satin, and stem stitches; buttonholed wheels, eyelet holes, and French knots; edged with bobbin straight lace Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1986.11

Writing Box England, 17th century Linen, plain weave; embroidered with silk in back, running, and satin stitches; laid work and couching; edged with woven tape Restricted gift of Mrs. Chauncey B. Borland, 1966.431

Panel ,, German inscription: ICH LASS ...WUNSCHEN WAS ER WOLT. DUGENT (TUGEND) WOLT ICH VURU GOLD 1616 (I let ...wishing what he wants. Virtue I want for gold 1616) Switzerland, 1616 Linen, plain weave; embroidered with silk, linen, and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk in buttonhole, detached buttonhole, chain, cross, half cross, long-armed cross, overcast, satin, and threaded herringbone stitches; laid work, couching, and buttonholed couching; edged in woven fringe Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1985.633

Apron Italy, 17th century Linen, plain weave; pulled-thread work with silk in back and two-sided Italian cross stitches; waist band gathered by back filling, feather, and running stitches; edged with twined fringe and needle lace Restricted gift of The Needlework and Textile Guild of Chicago, 1976.332

Picture showing Adam and Eve England, 17th century Silk, satin weave; embroidered with silk floss and frise yarns, gilt metal purl, gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, metal pieces, and pailettes in detached chain, running, satin, split, and tied herringbone stitches; couching, padded couching, and laid work Restricted gift of Mrs. Chauncey B. Borland, 1965.780 Masterpieces Checklist page fifteen

Dressing Box showing the Finding of Moses and Scenes from Abraham and Hagar England, about 1668 Silk, satin weave; appliqued with silk, linen, and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, plain weaves and twill plaited tapes; embroidered with silk, silk chenille, silk-wrapped wire, gilt metal wire and strips, gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, and linen in bullion, satin and single satin, stem and stem filling, and a variety of buttonhole stitches; laid work, buttonholed couching, couching, and French knots; mica and pearls; edged with woven tape Restricted gift of Mr. and Mrs. Arthur M. Wood, Mrs. Bertha Palmer Thorne, Mrs. Rose Movius Palmer, and Mrs. Gordon Palmer, 1969.136

Sampler England, 1676 Linen, plain weave; bands of cut and drawn work embroidered in interlocking lace and Roumanian stitches; cut work filled with needle lace of a type known as "Reticello"; and embroidered with silk in Algerian eye, hem, Montenegrin cross, running, double running, and satin stitches; buttonholed couching Restricted gift of Mrs. John V. Farwell III, 1967.225

Panel England, late 17th century Cotton and linen, twill weave; embroidered with wool and silk in back, bullion, buttonhole, chain, detached chain, coral, satin, single satin, and stem stitches; laid work, couching, and French knots Restricted gift of Mrs. Chauncey B. Borland, 1964.188

LACE

Border Italy, early 17th century, macrame edge: about 1610 Linen, plain weave; cut and drawn work in buttonholed, darned and overcast bars with buttonholed picots; embroidered in buttonhole, double running, hem, interlocking lace, overcast, and satin stithces; buttonholed couching; macrame edge with knotted fringe Gift of The Antiquarian Society of The Art Institute of Chicago, 1900.3170

Border from a Bed Curtain Spain, early 17th century Linen, square netting; embroidered in cloth stitches Gift of Honore Palmer, 1937.745

Two Fragments from a Border French and Latin inscriptions: Vive le Roy (Long Live the King); Carolus Rex (King Charles); CB Baronet (Sir Copleston Bampfield (1638-1692); C 1661 B England, Devonshire, Dorset; 1661 Linen, bobbin part-lace Gift of The Antiquarian Society of The Art Institute of Chicago, 1937.452a,b Masterpieces Checklist page sixteen

17th-18th Centuries

WEAVING

Panel Flanders, Utrecht or Northern France; about 1700 Linen and wool, plain weave; cut solid velvet; stamped Restricted gift of Mrs. Don H. Reuben, 1988.475

Panel France, 1703-1705 Silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, satin weave with brocading wefts and self-patterned by areas of plain weave Restricted gift of The Laurance H. Armour, Jr. and Margot B. Armour Family Foundation, 1985.67

Fragment France or England, about 1711 Silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, satin weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and brocading and self-patterning ground wefts Mr. and Mrs. Martin A. Ryerson Collection, 1937.1282

Panel England, Spitalfields; 1714 Silk, satin weave, cut and uncut voided velvet Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1989.75

Panel France, about 1718 Silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, satin damask weave with patterning and brocading wefts Gift of Mrs. Chauncey B. Borland, 1945.158b

Panel in the style of Courtois France, 1732-1733 Silk and gilt-metal-strip wrapped silk, satin weave with brocading wefts, ground weft floats, and plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and ground wefts Gift of The Antiquarian Society of The Art Institute of Chicago, 1924.585

Panel in the style of Courtois France, 1732-1733 Silk, plain weave with patterning warps, brocading wefts, and self-patterned by complementary ground wefts Bequest of Mrs. Chauncey B. Borland, 1978.975 Masterpieces Checklist page seventeen

Panel in the style of Jean Revel France, 1734-1736 Silk, plain weave with brocading wefts Textile Purchase Account, 1983.168

Panel France, Lyon; about 1735 Silk, plain weave with brocading wefts and self-patterned by complementary ground wefts Gift of Mrs. C. Phillip Miller, 1964.181b

Panel France, Lyon; mid-18th century Silk, gilt metal strips, and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, satin weave with brocading wefts and plain interlacing of secondary binding warps and ground wefts John C. Murphy and Margaret Hambleton Murphy Memorial Fund, 1987.22

Panel France, mid-18th century Silk, gilt metal strips, and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, plain weave with brocading wefts and self-patterned by ground_ weft floats Mr. and Mrs. Martin A. Ryerson Collection, 1937.1324

Panel England, Spitalfields; about 1747 Silk, plain weave with brocading wefts and self-patterned by complementary ground weft floats Belle M. Borland Endowment, 1984.84

Panel Designed by Anna Maria Garthwaite (1690-17563) England, Spitalfields; 1752 Silk, plain weave with patterning warps Gift of Mrs. Ethelyn Miles, 1946.73

Border France or Italy, second half of 18th century Silk, broken warp chevron twill weave, cut and uncut solid velvet Ex-collection: Sangiorgi Mary Ann Judy Endowment, 1986.1005

Panel France or Spain, late 18th century Silk, satin weave with patterning wefts, cut and uncut voided velvet Gift of Michael E. Abraham, 1979.1445 Masterpieces Checklist page eighteen

Panel France, 1775-1799 Silk and cotton, plain weave self-patterned by complementary ground wefts, cut voided velvet Belle M. Borland Endowment, 1982.1390

Panel Designed by Philippe de LaSalle (1723-1805) France, Lyon; about 1780 Silk and silk chenille yarns, satin weave with brocading wefts Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1983.735

Panel Italy, Genoa or Piedmont; 1780-1785 Silk, twill weave faced with gilt metal strips, cut and uncut voided velvet Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1985.632

Panel entitled "The Pheasants" from the series "Verdures du Vatican" Intended as a wall covering for the Royal Palais, Madrid Designedby Jean Demosthene Dugourc (1749-1825) Woven by Camille Pernon & Cie France, Lyon; 1783-1789 Silk, satin weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and brocading wefts; embroidered with silk in chain and satin stitches Restricted gift of Mrs. Chauncey B. Borland, 1945.12

NEEDLEWORK

Panel Italy, late 17th-early 18th century Silk, plain weave with gilt-metal-strip facing wefts; embroidered with silk chenille, silk, linen, and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk in couching and padded couching Kate S. Buckingham Endowment, 1981.122

Original Case for Mitre Italy, second half of 18th century Leather, gold stamped with Coat-of-Arms of Alexander Sperelli (died 1699), Bishop of Gubbio (1644-1671) Restricted gift of The Alsdorf Foundation in honor of John Maxon, 1977.188

Mitre Italy, second half of 17th-early 18th century Silk, plain weave; embroidered with silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk in bullion, running, satin, split, and stem stitches; couching, laid work, and French knots; edged in woven braid and fringe Restricted gift of The Alsdorf Foundation in honor of John Maxon, 1977 .188 Masterpieces Checklist page nineteen

Bed cover England, about 1730 Cotton, plain weave; embroidered with silk in back, cross, herringbone, individual satin, satin, star, and stem stitches; laid work, couching, and French knots Restricted gift of Mr. and Mrs. John V. Farwell III, 1985.84a

Pillow Sham England, about 1730 Cotton, plain weave; embroidered with silk in back, herringbone, individual satin, and satin stitches; laid work, couching, and French knots Restricted gift of Mr. and Mrs. John V. Farwell III, 1985.84b

Pillow Sham England, about 1730 Cotton, plain weave; embroidered with silk in back, herringbone, running, and satin stitches; laid work, couching, and French knots Restricted gift of Mr. and Mrs. John V. Farwell III, 1985.84c

Pillow Sham England, about 1730 Cotton, plain weave; embroidered with silk in back, herringbone, individual satin, satin, and stem stitches; laid work, couching, and French knots Restricted gift of Mr. and Mrs. John V. Farwell III, 1985.84d

Panel from Settee Probably England, 1745-1755 Linen, plain weave; embroidered with silk and wool in tent stitches Royalties from The Warner Company; restricted gift of Mr. and Mrs. Don H. Reuben; The Needlework and Textile Guild of Chicago, 1982.199

WEAVING - PRINTED

Fragment entitled "Le Petit Buveur" After an engraving by Pierre Alexandre Aveline (1702-1769), Taken from a design by Antoine Watteau (1684-1721) France, Jouy-en-Josas; 1765-1770 Cotton and linen, plain weave; block printed Gift of Robert Allerton, 1925.151

Panel English inscriptions: R. Iones & Co. Iany (January) 1st 1789; R. Iones & Co. Old Ford England, Old Ford; 1769 Linen and cotton, plain weave; copperplate and block printed Restricted gift of The Estate of Lila Erminger; Belle M. Borland Endowment, 1985.82 Masterpieces Checklist page twenty

Panel Designed by Jean Baptiste Pillement (1728-1808) England, Bromley Hall; after 1774 Cotton, plain weave; copperplate printed Restricted gift of Miss Mildred Davison in honor of Christa Thurman, 1979.518

Panel entitled "The Turf Inn" Inscription on back of coach: B F (Benjamin Franklin) England, about 1780 Cotton, plain weave; copperplate printed Gift of Mrs. Emily Crane Chadbourne, 1952.583

Panel entitled "Chinoiseries" Designed by Jean Baptiste Pillement (1728-1808) Printed at the Oberkampf Manufactory France, Jouy-en-Josas; about 1780 Cotton, plain weave; copperplate printed Restricted gift of Mrs. Howell B. Erminger, Jr., 1965.777

Panel entitled "Les Travaux de la Manufacture" Designed by Jean Baptiste Huet (1745-1811) Printed at the Oberkampf Manufactory France, Jouy-en-Josas; 1783 Cotton, plain weave; copperplate printed Restricted gift of Mrs. Potter Palmer II, 1953.306

Panel showing Scenes taken from Satirical Engravings after Henry Bunbury (17 50-1811) Inscription: Royal Artillery; G III R England, about 1785 Cotton, plain weave; copperplate printed Gift of Mrs. Emily Crane Chadbourne, 1952.585a

Panel entitled "La Corne Fleurie" Manufactured by J. P. Meillier et Cie France, Bordeaux, Beautiran; after 1789 Cotton, plain weave; block printed Gift of Robert Allerton, 1925.729

Fragment Produced by Manufacture Blanc France, Sainbel; about 1790 Cotton and linen, plain weave; resist printed Restricted gift of Mrs. Julian Armstrong, Jr., 1976.71

Panel France, late 18th century Silk, plain weave; painted Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1987.17 Masterpieces Checklist page twenty-one

LACE

Flounce France, about 1700 Linen, needle lace Restricted gift of Mr. and Mrs. Arthur M. Wood, Mrs. Bertha Palmer Thorne, Mrs. Rose Movius Palmer, and Mrs. Gordon Palmer, 1969.159

Cravat End with Monogram of Louis XIV (1638-1720) France, 1708-1720 Linen, bobbin part-lace of a type known as "Brussels" Restricted gift of Mr. and Mrs. John V. Farwell III, 1987.334

Cap Crown and Lappets Flanders, Brussels; 1720s Linen, bobbin part-lace of a type known as "Brussels" Gift of Mrs. Edward E. Ayer through The Antiquarian Society of The Art Institute of Chicago, 1902.232a-c

Border Italy, probably Milan; early 18th century Linen, bobbin part-lace Gift of Honore Palmer, 1937.742

18th-19th Centuries

WEAVING

Panel showing Scenes from the Life of Alexander France, late 18th-early 19th century Silk, satin weave with brocading wefts Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1986.1059

Panel France, 1804-1814 Silk and cotton, satin weave, cut and uncut voided velvet Restricted gift of Mrs. Barbara Campbell in memory of Martha Borland Willis, 1985.81

Panel Manufactured by Mathevon et Bouvard France, Lyon; 1860-1880 Silk, satin weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning and brocading wefts Restricted gift of The Antiquarian Society of The Art Institute of Chicago, 1988.526 Masterpieces Checklist page twenty-two

Hanging entitled "Pomona" Designed by Sir Edward Burne-Jones (1833-1898) and William Morris (1834-1896) Inscription: Pomona England, probably London; 1884-1885 Woven at William Morris Workshop, Merton Abbey; 1898-1918 Cotton, wool, and silk, double interlocking tapestry weave Ida E. Noyes Fund, 1919.792

Panel Designed and manufactured by Alexander Morton & Company Scotland, Darvel; 1885-1890 Silk, cotton, and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped cotton, satin weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts Ada Turnbull Hertle Endowment, 1988.106

WEAVING - CARPET

Carpet Originally used in the John J. Glessner House, Chicago Designed by William Morris (1834-1896) England, London; early 1880s Manufactured by Morris & Company, Merton Abbey Cotton and wool, plain weave with "Ghiordes knot" cut pile Gift of Mrs. Charles F. Batchelder, 1974.524

WEAVING - PRINTED

Panel entitled "La Marchande d'Amour" Designed by Louis Hippolyte Lebas (1782-1887) Produced by Christophe Philippe Oberkampf (1738-1815) France, Jouy-en-Josas; 1815-1817 Cotton, plain weave; engraved roller printed Gift of Mrs. Lawrence McClure, 1966.146

Panel Printed by Lancaster Prints England, 1850 Cotton, plain weave; roller printed; glazed Restricted gift of Mrs. Homer Dixon, 1958.762 EUROPEAN TEXTILE MASTERPIECES FROM COPTIC TIMES THROUGH THE 19th CENTURY

Textiles in Gunsaulus Hall

Orphrey Band, about 1390 Italy, Perugia Linen, plain weave; embroidered with silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk in satin and split stitches; couching, padded couching, and laid work; edged with woven tape Harriott A. Fox Endowment, 1967.676

Fragment, early 15th century Italy Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, twill weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts (detached on reverse) Restricted gift of Mr. and Mrs. John V. Farwell III, 1962.461

Retable showing Madonna and Child, Nativity, and Adoration of the Magi, Altar Frontal showing the Resurrection and Six Apostles, about 1468 Spain, Burgo de Osma Made for Pedro de Montoya, Bishop of Osma (1454-1475) Linen, plain weave; appliqued with: linen, plain weave; silk, plain weave; and silk, plain weave, cut solid velvet Retable: embroidered with silk floss and creped yarns, gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, seed pearls, and pailettes in brick, bullion, chain, split, stem, and a variety of satin stitches; couching, padded couching, and laid work; Altar frontal: embroidered with linen, silk, gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, and pailettes in satin and split stitches; couching, padded couching, and laid work Ex-collection: Charles Deering Gift of Mrs. Chauncey McCormick and Mrs. Richard Ely Danielson, 1927.1779a,b

Fragment, 15th century Greece or Byzantium Silk, gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, satin weave with brocading wefts Gift of Martin A. Ryerson, 1895.616

Orphrey Panel showing the Nativity, second half of 15th century Latin inscription: Verbum Caro Factum Est (The Word Was Made Flesh) Italy Silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped linen, satin weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning and brocading wefts Restricted gift of Edward M. Cummings, 1986.178

Orphrey Cross, about 1520 Probably Hungary or Austria Silk, satin weave underlaid with linen, plain weave; appliqued with: silk, satin weave; linen and silk, plain weave with supplementary pile warp cut solid velvet; and three-dimensional figures of silk, satin weave; linen, plain weave; and silk, plain weave; embroidered with silk, linen, gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, and gilt-metal-wire-wrapped silk in satin stitches; couching, padded couching, and French knots; painted; glass beads and semi-precious stones Emily Crane Chadbourne Endowment, 1969.789 Gunsaulus Hall page two

Cope, late 15th-early 16th century England, Opus Anglicanum Silk, broken warp chevron twill weave; cut voided velvet; appliqued with linen, plain weave; embroidered with silk, gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, and pailettes in satin and split stitches; couching, padded couching, and laid work Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1971.312a

Chasuble, late 15th-early 16th century Spain Silk, plain weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped silk facing wefts, cut voided velvet; edged with bobbin-made tape Ex-collection: Martin A. Ryerson Gift of Martin A. Ryerson through The Antiquarian Society of The Art Institute, 1911.202

Cope, about 1500 Italy Silk, satin weave, cut, pile-on-pile solid velvet Kate S. Buckingham Endowment, 1951.52

Chasuble, early 16th century Italy Silk, satin weave, cut voided velvet; edged with woven tapes Gift of Martin A. Ryerson through The Antiquarian Society of The Art Institute of Chicago, 1900.433

Chasuble showing the Arms of France, 16th century Latin inscriptions: Pietate (with piety); Justitia (with justice) Belgium, France, or Spain Linen and wool, plain weave, cut solid velvet; stamped; of a type known as "velours 'de trek'" Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1978.394

Chasuble with Medallion showing Baptism, based on a fresco by Andrea del Sarto (1486-1530), late 16th-early 17th century Italy Linen, plain weave with inset medallion of silk, satin weave; embroidered with silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk and linen in satin, split, and stem stitches; couching and French knots; edged with woven tape Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1971.313

Cope, late 17th century Italy Silk, satin weave; embroidered with linen, silk, gilt metal strips, and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk in satin and split stitches; couching and padded couching; beaded with coral beads Restricted gift of Mr. and Mrs. John V. Farwell III, 1965.772 Gunsaulus Hall page three

Chasuble, late 17th century Italy Silk, satin weave; embroidered with linen, silk, gilt metal strips, and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk in satin and split stitches; couching and padded couching; beaded with coral beads Restricted gift of Mr. and Mrs. John V. Farwell III, 1965.773

Dalmatic and Humeral Veil, late 17th-early 18th century Southern Europe Silk, plain weave Dalmatic: embroidered with silk, gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, and gilt metal strips, purl and pailettes in back, satin, split, and stem stitches; couching, padded couching, laid work, and French knots Humeral Veil: embroidered with silk, gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, gilt metal strips, and purl in back, satin, split, and stem stitches; couching, padded couching, and French knots Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1973.654a,b

Chasuble, Stole, and Maniple, late 17th-early 18th century France or Italy Silk, plain weave; watered; embroidered with gilt metal strips, gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, gilt metal pailettes, pieces, and wire in laid work, couching, padded couching, and French knots; edged with bobbin-made tapes Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment, 1987.324a-c

Chasuble, Stole, Maniple, Burse, Chalice Veil, and Chalice Cover, 18th century France Wool, twill weave; embroidered with wool Chasuble: chain and running stitches; couching and French knots Stole: chain stitches and French knots; collar: cotton, plain weave with knitted edge Maniple: chain stitches and French knots; silk ribbons Burse: chain stitches Chalice Veil: chain stitches and French knots Chalice Cover: chain stitches; silk ribbons Restricted gifts of Mr. and Mrs. John V. Farwell III, 1968.779a-f

New Aqcuisitions Gallery (through November 28, 1989)

Das andere Land (The Other Land) Designed and executed by Lissy Funk (born 1909) Switzerland, Zurich; 1986-1987 Linen, plain weave; embroidered with a variety of fibers in a variety of stitches Lissy Funk Acquisition Fund; Wirt D. Walker Endowment; 1989.414 Textiles in European Decorative Arts Galleries page four

Table Carpet showing Scenes from the Life of Christ, 1600-1650 Northern Netherlands Linen, wool, and silk, slit and double interlocking tapestry weave Ada Turnbull Hertle Endowment, 1978.58

Basket, about 1645 England Metal frame wrapped with glass beads; applied motifs of gold and silver leafed paper and linen; plain weave; beaded Gift of Frederick C. Bartlett to The Needlework and Textile Guild of Chicago, 1927.883

Mirror showing Charles II and Catherine of Braganza and Figures from the Old Testament, about 1665 England Silk, satin weave; embroidered with silk floss, silk yarns, gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, gilt metal purl, and cardboard; in brick, overcast, running, satin, and split stitches; couching, padded couching, laid work, French knots; braided pompons, and seed pearls; in tortoise shell frame Gift of Mrs. Laurance H. Armour, Jr., in memory of her mother, Mrs. Henry Malcolm Withers, 1963.748

Casket with Scenes from the Old Testament, 1668 England, Made by Rebecca Stonier Plaisted Inscriptions: R.S.; I.P.; 1668 Silk, satin weave; embroidered with silk floss and silk yarns, silk floss wound around metal purl in brick, bullion, Ceylon, chain, knot, lattice filling, running, overcast, satin, Smyrna cross, tent, and a variety of buttonhole stitches; couching, padding, laid work, French and Turkey knots; applied areas of linen, plain weave; seed pearls, coral beads, mica, and silk, plain weave with ground weft fringe; edged in woven tape Restricted gift of Mrs. Chauncey B. Borland and Mrs. Edwin A. Seipp, 1959.337

Panel, about 1708 England or the Netherlands Silk, satin weave self-patterned by areas of twill weave Restricted gift of Miss Mildred Davison in memory of Miss Josephine Morse, 1986.989

Panel, about 1735 France, Lyon Silk, satin weave with twill interlacings of brocading and some ground wefts and plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and some ground wefts Gift of Mrs. Chauncey B. Borland, 1955.809

Panel, 1723-1724 England, Spitalfields Silk, satin weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and brocading and ground wefts Purchased with proceeds from The Bonwit Teller Benefit, 1979.295 European Decorative Arts page five

Panel, 1748-1749 England, Spitalfields Silk, plain weave with brocading wefts and self-patterned by complementary ground weft floats Restricted gift of Miss Mildred Davison, 1986.14

Panel, about 1775 France, Lyon After a design by Philippe de LaSalle (1723-1805) Manufactured by Camille Pernon et Cie Woven for Empress Catherine II of Russia Silk and linen, satin weave with brocading wefts; painted Restricted gift of The Textile Society of The Art Institute of Chicago, 1983.748

Panel, third quarter of 18th century France Silk, plain weave with interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterningwefts; "watered" Restricted gift of Mr. and Mrs. Robert Hixon Glore, 1984.1002

Panel, about 1786 France, Nantes Designed by Jean Baptiste Huet (1745-1811) Linen, plain weave; copperplate printed Gift of Robert Allerton, 1924.499

Panel, about 1800 France Silk, satin weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning wefts Ada Turnbull Hertle Endowment, 1988.104

Panel, 1860-1880 France, Lyon Manufactured by Mathevon et Bouvard Silk and cotton, satin weave, cut and uncut voided velvet Restricted gift of The Antiquarian Society, 1988.533

Textiles in Asian Galleries

Hanging Turkey, Bursa; 16th century Two panels joined. Silk, gold gilt strip wound around silk fiber core, warp-float faced satin weave with supplementary brocading wefts, supplementary binding wefts and supplementary pile warps forming cut voided velvet Gift of Burton Y. Berry in memory of Margaret O. Gentles, 1972.386

Cushion Cover Turkey, Bursa; 16th century Silk, cotton, and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, satin weave with brocading wefts, cut voided velvet Gift of Burton Y. Berry, 1954.91 Asian Galleries page six

Cushion Cover Turkey, Bursa; 16th century Silk, cotton, and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, satin weave with brocading wefts, cut voided velvet Gift of Burton Y. Berry, 1954.94

Panel Turkey, 16th century Linen, plain weave; embroidered with silk in running stitches (pattern darning); main warp fringe Gift of Burton Y. Berry, 1949.306

Catma Cover Turkey, 16th century Silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, satin weave with brocading wefts, cut voided velvet Gift of Burton Y. Berry, 1949.300

Square Cover Turkey, 17th century Linen, plain weave; embroidered with silk in running (pattern darning) and split stitches Gift of Burton Y. Berry, 1949.370

Cushion Cover Turkey, Bursa; 18th century Silk and cotton, satin weave faced with gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk wefts bound by secondary binding warps, cut voided velvet; edged with woven fringe Gift of Burton Y. Berry

Turban Cover Turkey, 18th century Linen, plain weave; embroidered with silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk in fishbone, overcast, and running stitches Gift of Burton Y. Berry, 1958.182

Towel Turkey, 18th century Linen, plain weave; embroidered with silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk in double running, fishbone, and overcast stitches Gift of Burton Y. Berry, 1949.377

Senna Kilim Saddle Blanket Kurdistan, Iran; 19th century Wool, slit tapestry weave Gift of Mel Blomberg in memory of Betty Blomberg, 1979.569

Carpet Caucasus, 19th century Wool, plain weave with "Sehna" knot cut pile Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Dave Chapman, 1972.1189 Asian Galleries page seven

Panel Mytilene, 19th century Silk and linen, plain weave; embroidered with silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk in double running and satin stitches; warp fringe Gift of Burton Y. Berry, 1953.53

Geometric Carpet Caucasus, Daghestan; 19th century Wool and cotton, plain weave with "Sehna" knot cut pile Gift of Mrs. Charles Albert Winston, 1948.180

Cushion Cover Turkey, 19th century Linen, plain weave; embroidered with silk in laid work and couching Gift of Burton Y. Berry, 1952.296

Textiles in Africa, Oceania and the Americas Galleries

Mantle Peru, Paracas; 500-200 B.C. Wool, plain weave; embroidered with stem stitch Emily Crane Chadbourne Endowment, 1970.293

Poncho Peru, South Coast; 800-1300 A.O. Cotton, plain weave; embellished with feathers attached with cotton yarns in overcast stitches Kate S. Buckingham Endowment, 1955.1789

Poncho Peru, Tiahuanaco Culture; 800-1100 A.D. Wool, single interlocking tapestry weave Kate S. Buckingham Endowment, 1955.1784

Kente Cloth Ghana, Ashanti People; first quarter of 20th century Silk and rayon, 24 narrow woven strips with bands of plain weave, plain weave with supplementary patterning wefts, plain weave with supplementary brocading wefts, and weft-faced plain weave Gift of Mr. and Mrs. David C. Ruttenberg, 1985.756

Panel Zaire, Bakuba People; possibly mid-20th century Raffia, plain weave; embroidered with raffia in stem and running stitches forming cut pile; couching Restricted gift of The Textile Society of The Art Institute of Chicago; Avon Company Royalties, 1984.1029

Panel Zaire, Bakuba People; possibly mid-20th century Raffia, plain weave; embroidered with raffia in stem and running stitches forming cut pile Restricted gift of Mrs. John H. Johnson, 1984.1034