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WORLD CRAFT CITIES NETWORK FORUM

CRAFTS AND TOURISM CRAFTS AND CULTURE CRAFTS AND EDUCATION CRAFTS AND MARKETING PRESENTERS

Ms Rosy Greenlees Dr. Ghada Hijjawi Qaddumi Mdm Usha Krishna Dr. Richard Engelhardt Mr Zhou Zhengsheng Datuk Bandar Kuching Utara Mdm Mitra Narvand Asephi

DRESS AND CULTURAL IDENTITY AHPADA / WEFT FORUM

8-10th November 2019 LIST OF SPEAKERS HRH Gusti Kanjeng Ratu Bendoro Prof Zhang Hui Yogyakarta Palace Dress Code of Indonesia Smart Dress– New Directions in Chinese Dress Victorino Manalo Design Terno Dress of The Roxanna Amarillo Laila Tyabji The Traditional Handmade Clothing of Saree of India Monisha Ahmed Savitri Suwansathit Ladakh identity in dress (India) Thai Dress Through The Ages John Ang Keo Siri Everingham Royal Attire of the Laos Costume Dinara Chochunbaeva Dr Siti Norkhalbi Wahsalfelah Kyrgyz Traditional Hats Ak-Kalpak and Elechek Brunei Costume Dr Joseph Lo Dr Nguyen Thi Ngan Indigenous Chinese Minority Style The Ao Dai, Vietnam Prof YY Wan Filomena Reiss Paiwan of Taiwan The Baduy Code of Dress, Indonesia Ahmed Alfarsi Dayak Cultural Foundation Omani Costumes Iban dress Suknam Yang Dayak Bidayuh National Association Korean Style Bidayuh Costumes Naoko Matsuyama Persatuan Melayu Sarawak Culture of Japan Malay Dress of Sarawak Mai Ni Ni Aung Orang Ulu National Association Dress Orang Ulu of Sarawak Herman Kekoa Ka'oiwinani Mossman Tachera Persatuan Melanau Sarawak Lei style of Hawai’i (USA) Dr Valerie Mashman Yuan Guo Xiang Orang Ulu Warrior’s Costume Chinese Cultural Dress CHAIRPERSONS

YM Fuziah Raja Tun Uda ⚫ Dr Surapee Rojanavongse ⚫ Mdm. Manjari Nirula

Datin Dayang Mariani Abang Zain ⚫ Dr Sitthichai Smanchat

DRESS AND CULTURAL IDENTITY

The 9th Biennial WEFT Forum, Exhibition and Show

In conjunction with the World Crafts Cities Network Forum

& AHPADA ASSEMBLY 2019

8-10 November 2019

Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

DAILY PROGRAM

Friday 8 November

9.00- 10.00a.m: Opening Ceremony by Y.A.B. Datuk Patinggi Abang Hj. Abd Rahman Zohari bin Tun Abg Hj Openg, Chief Minister of Sarawak

Tour of International Exhibition Booths

10.00-10.30a.m: Tea/Coffee Break

SYMPOSIUM (Facilitator: YM Raja Datin Paduka Fuziah b. Raja Tun Uda )

Session 1 Chaired by YM Raja Datin Paduka Fuziah b. Raja Tun Uda

11.00-11.30 am: HRH Gusti Kanjeng Ratu Bendoro:Yogyakarta Palace dress code, Indonesia

11.30-12.00 pm: John Ang-Royal Attire of the Nusantara

12.00-12.30 pm: Filomena Reiss- The Baduy Code of Dress, Indonesia

12.30- 1.00 pm: Dr Siti Norkhalbi Wahsalfelah- Brunei Costume

1.00-1.30 pm: Ahmed Alfarsi-Omani Costumes

1.30-2.30pm: Lunch Break

2.30-3.30 pm: WORLD CRAFTS CITIES NETWORK FORUM Session 1

OR

WORKSHOPS:

A. Feather and Floral Lei by Herman Kekoa Ka’oiwinani Mossman Tachera

B. Style by Meechai Taesurijaya, Apip Jogjakarta, Asif Shaikh

C. Natural by Warlami Indonesia, Nest Kokonest

3.30-4.00 pm: Tea/Coffee Break

4.00-5.00 pm: WORLD CRAFTS CITIES NETWORK FORUM Session 2

Workshops continue

7.00 pm: Official Opening of Exhibition

Pullman Hotel Lobby followed by Welcome Dinner by

Y.A.Bhg. Datin Patinggi Dato Hajah Juma’ani, at Pullman Hotel Lobby followed by Welcome Dinner at Petra Hall

Saturday 2 Dec

Session 2 Chaired by Dr Surapee Rojanavongse

9.00- 9.30 am: Savitri Suwansathit- Thai Dress through the ages,

9.30-10.00 am: Keo Siri Everingham: Laos Costume

10.00-10.30 am: Dr Nguyen Thi Ngan- The Ao Dai, Vietnam

10.30-11.00 am: Dinara Chochunbaeva- Kyrgyz traditional hats Ak-kalpak and Elechek

(Tea/Coffee Break)

Session 3 Chaired by Mdm Manjari Nirula

11.00-11.30 am: Laila Tyabji—Saree of India

11.30-12.00 am: Monisha Ahmed- Ladakh identity in dress, India

Session 4 Chaired by Prof. Shaikh Azahar Bin Shaikh Hussain

12.00-12.30 am: Mai Ni Ni Aung- Myanmar Dress

12.30-1.00 pm: Joseph Lo- Indigenous Chinese minority style

1.00- 1.30 pm: Victorino Manalo- Terno Dress of Philippines

1.30-2.30pm: Lunch Break

2.30-3.30 pm: WORLD CRAFTS CITIES NETWORK FORUM Session 3

OR WORKSHOPS:

A. Feather and Floral Lei by Herman Kekoa Ka’oiwinani Mossman Tachera

B. Sarong Style by Meechai Taesurijaya, Apip Jogjakarta, Asif Shaikh

C. Natural Dyes by Warlami Indonesia, Nest Kokonest

3.30-4.00 pm: Tea/Coffee Break

4.00-5.00 pm: WORLD CRAFTS CITIES NETWORK FORUM Session 4

Workshops continue

7.00 pm: Gala Dinner/International Fashion Show

Coliseum 1 & 2 Ballroom, Pullman Hotel

Guest of Honour:Y.A.Bhg. Toh Puan Datuk Patinggi Hajah Ragad Kurdi Taib

Sunday 3 Dec

Session 5 Chaired by Dr Sitthichai Smanchat

9.00- 9.30 am: Naoko Matsuyama : Kimono Culture of Japan

9.30-10.00 am: Suknam Yang: Korean Style

10.00-10.30a.m: Yuan Guo Xiang- Chinese Cultural Dress

10.30-11.00: Prof Zhang Hui- Smart Dress- new directions in Chinese dress design

(Tea/Coffee Break)

Session 6 Chaired by Datin Dayang Mariani

11.00 -11.30 am: Herman Kekoa Ka'oiwinani Mossman Tachera: Lei style of Hawaii USA

11.30-12.00 am: Prof YY Wan- Paiwan of Taiwan

12,00- 12.30pm: Roxanna Amarillo:The Poncho traditional handmade clothing of Argentina

Session 4 Chaired Mr Edric Ong

12.30-1.30 pm: Sarawak Costumes Round Table:

Dayak Cultural Foundation- Iban Dress DBNA- Bidayuh Costumes Persatuan Melayu Sarawak-Malay Dress of Sarawak OUNA-Orang Ulu of Sarawak Persatuan Melanau Sarawak

1.30- 2.30 pm: Lunch Break 2.30-3.30 pm: AHPADA (ASEAN HANDICRAFT PROMOTION AND DEVELOPMENT ASSOCIATION) BOARD MEETING

OR

Workshops on:

A. Feather and Floral Lei by Herman Kekoa Ka’oiwinani Mossman Tachera

B. Sarong Style by Meechai Taesurijaya, Apip Jogjakarta, Asif Shaikh

C. Natural Dyes by Warlami Indonesia, Nest Kokonest

3.30-4.00 pm: Tea/Coffee Break.

4.30-5.00 pm: Workshops continue

7.00 pm: Farewell Dinner (Mad Hatters Theme Party), Dewan Sri Bunga Rampai, Kuching) hosted by Minister of Tourism Sarawak.

Guests of Honour:Y. B. Datuk Abdul Karim Rahman Hamzah and Y. Bhg Datin Zuraini,

ASEAN HANDICRAFT PROMOTION & DEVELOPMENT ASSOCIATION SOCIETY ATELIER SARAWAK 12, Ong Kwan Hin Road, Kuching, Sarawak, 93000 Malaysia EMAIL: [email protected] WEBSITE: www.societyatelier.org TEL: 60-82-420042

Dress and Cultural Identity The 9th Biennial WEFT Forum, Exhibition and Fashion Show In conjunction with the World Crafts Cities Network Forum & AHPADA ASSEMBLY 2019 8-10 November 2019 Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

The W.E.F.T. FORUM was first started in September, 1999 in Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia. Since then, the WEFT Forum has been a biennial event.

2001 (20-22 Sept): ‘BASKETRY’ and Natural Workshop. 2003 (19-21 Sept): ‘Hand Painted, Printed and Decorated ’. 2006 (5-7 May): ‘ Traditions Today’. 2008 (12-14 Sept): “Textiles and Fibers- The Untold Stories” 2010( 24-26 Sept): “ Nature’s Color Code” 2012 (27 Sept- 1 Oct)“ISEND/WEFT- Waste To Wealth” 2014 (Event held in Taiwan) 2017 (1st-3rd December): World Textiles..Ties that Bind”

WEFT Forum Objectives:

 To promote, share and acquire knowledge on the use of natural fibers and dyes.  To conserve and encourage the use of natural, sustainable material in the creation of arts and crafts.  To network amongst natural-material producers and the craftspeople through the establishment of an information database.  To develop a marketing network e.g. trade in raw materials, dye stuff etc.  To encourage and coordinate research and study into the traditional use of natural fiber and dyes in all forms of textile , basketry, mat-weaving, plaiting etc.  To promote the development of World-Eco Fiber and Textile Art.  To foster cultural exchange through exhibitions, conferences, international visits by the craftspeople for the purpose of study, lectures and workshops.

The ASEAN Handicraft Promotion and Development Association (AHPADA), an affiliated Member of ASEAN, acts as a regional forum of ASEAN Member states to address issues concerning the revitalization, promotion and development of crafts. As a regional body, it has linkages with international agencies and Non- Governmental Organizations in order to create an awareness of Southeast Asian craft products. AHPADA’s activities include the organization of seminars and workshops addressing issues such as product development, financing of craft enterprises, and market promotion.

AHPADA was established as a result of the International Workshop on Handicraft for Export held in conjunction with CONEX ’81 in Bangkok in February 1981 by ASEAN representatives from both the Government and Private Sectors. The founding members were Thailand, Malaysia, the Philippines and Indonesia. and Brunei Darussalam joined in little later. , Lao PDR, Myanmar and Vietnam joined in September 1999.

The Objectives of AHPADA are:

 To take a common approach to export development and promotion of handicrafts.  To operate as the focal point for promotion for handicrafts.  To operate as a focal point for product development and conservation of the raw material resources.  To organize and participate in trade fairs and exhibitions to promote handicrafts.  To stimulate the creation of employment opportunities especially in the rural areas.  To encourage the preservation of craft skills.

With these objectives in mind, the AHPADA Assembly 2018 to be hosted in Kuching Sarawak Malaysia through the Office of the current Presidency ( ie Society Atelier Sarawak) will feature the important issue of “ Dress and Cultural Identity” highlighting the role played by hand-crafted textiles , jewelry and other crafts especially head-dresses.

International Exhibition

Costumes and in particular the Headdresses from the 10 ASEAN members countries namely Indonesia, Thailand, Vietnam, Singapore, Malaysia, Philippines, Cambodia, Myanmar, Laos and Brunei will be exhibited together with the ASEAN Plus countries such as India, China, Japan and Korea. From Sarawak, the variety of head-dress and costumes of the 30 races will be the attraction such as the Iban silver ‘sugu tinggi’ ( female), ‘topi tunjang’ (male); Bidayuh beaded tall hats, conical rattan hats and embroidered caps; Orang Ulu beaded sun-hats ‘sa-ong’; Lun Bawang and Kelabit beaded ‘pata’ skull caps; Melanau palm ‘terendak’ hats; Malay ‘keringkam’ head-covering and ‘’, Penan plaited rattan ‘head-bands etc. The Kadazan/Dusun hats from Sabah and the various “’ folded ‘kain ’ formal head-dress of the other states of Peninsular Malaysia will complete the collection of Malaysia. Of special interest will be the ‘gourd’ hats from the Philippines; palm hats from Rote, Indonesia, the intricate gilded ceremonial dance head-dress from Thailand and Cambodia; the distinctive Vietnamese hat; Chinese opera ‘head-dress’, Indian Maharajah’s and Japanese samurai hats.

The Forum and Workshops

The 3 day Forum held in a 5 star hotel will have 30 internationally renowned scholars, community leaders and fashion designers of traditional costumes and fashion share their latest research information and knowledge on historical/ cultural dress and the contemporary and innovative designs over the 3 mornings( See List of Speakers). The 3 afternoons will have break-out workshop sessions with the Sarawak Cultural Communities/Associations.

At least 500 delegates will attend the Forum: 300 international/regional delegates from the 10 ASEAN member countries of AHPADA; 200 Malaysian delegates (community leaders and members, the public and students)

World Crafts Cities Network Forum Kuching has recently joined the ranks of other Crafts Cities around the World such as Jaipur (India), Jogjakarta ( Indonesia), Dongyang ( China), Dehua (China), Sakon Nakhon ( Thailand), Isfahan ( ), and twenty other cities around the World that has been accredited as Craft Cities by the World Crafts Council, a UNESCO Category A Affiliate Organization. In celebration of Kuching as World crafts Council- City for Crafts, and in fulfillment of the obligation to host the Biennale for Craffts, it is now proposed that Kuching will host the World Crafts Cities Network Forum on 8th and 9th November in conjunction with the AHPADA/WEFT Symposium event being held concurrently.

Dignitaries and City Governors/Mayors and their delegations from over 30 cities in Asia Pacific, Europe and Latin America have been invited to this Network Forum.

International Gala Dinner and Fashion Show

One of the Highlights of the Event is the Gala Dinner and Fashion Show showcasing 12 International Designers alongside renowned Malaysian Designers. This year, the focus will be “From Tradition to Innovation”

Short Afternoon Tours and Post Forum Tours

Several post forum tour options to weaving and craft centers as well as places of interest in Kuching and Sarawak are being offered.

“Dress & Cultural Identity” WEFT/Ahpada Forum , 8-10th November 2019

List of Speakers

1. HRH Gusti Kanjeng Ratu Bendoro:Yogyakarta Palace dress code, Indonesia 2. Victorino Manalo- Terno Dress of Philippines 3. Laila Tyabji—Saree of India 4. Monisha Ahmed- Ladakh identity in dress, India 5. John Ang-Royal Attire of the Nusantara 6. Dinara Chochunbaeva- Kyrgyz traditional hats Ak-kalpak and Elechek 7. Dr Joseph Lo- Indigenous Chinese minority style 8. Prof YY Wan- Paiwan of Taiwan 9. Ahmed Alfarsi-Omani Costumes 10. Suknam Yang: Korean Style 11. Naoko Matsuyama : Kimono Culture of Japan 12. Mai Ni Ni Aung- Myanmar Dress 13. Herman Kekoa Ka'oiwinani Mossman Tachera: Lei style of Hawaii USA 14. Yuan Guo Xiang- Chinese Cultural Dress 15. Prof Zhang Hui- Smart Dress- new directions in Chinese dress design 16. Roxanna Amarillo:The Poncho traditional handmade clothing of Argentina 17. Savitri Suwansathit- Thai Dress through the ages, Thailand 18. Keo Siri Everingham: Laos Costume 19. Dr Siti Norkhalbi Wahsalfelah- Brunei Costume 20. Dr Nguyen Thi Ngan- The Ao Dai, Vietnam 21. Filomena Reiss- The Baduy Code of Dress, Indonesia 22. Dayak Cultural Foundation - Iban dress 23. DBNA- Bidayuh Costumes 24. Persatuan Melayu Sarawak-Malay Dress of Sarawak 25. OUNA-Orang Ulu of Sarawak 26. Persatuan Melanau Sarawak 27. Dr Valerie Mashman- Orang Ulu Warrior’s Costume

Chair-persons

YM. Raja Fuziah Raja Tun Uda; Dr Surapee Rojanavongse; Mdm. Manjari Nirula; Datin Dayang Mariani Abang Zain; Dr Sitthichai Smanchat

WORLD CRAFTS CITIES NETWORK FORUM

SESSIONS:

1. Crafts and Tourism

2. Crafts and Culture

3. Crafts and Education

4. Crafts and Marketing

Presenters:

Ms Rosy Greenlees; Dr. Ghada Hijjawi Qaddumi ; Mdm Usha Krishna; Dr. Richard Engelhardt; Mr Zhou Zhengsheng; Datuk Bandar Kuching Utara; Mdm Mitra Narvand; Asephi Indonesia

World Crafts Cities Network An International Forum of WCC Crafts Cities In conjunction with the AHPADA/WEFT 2019 8-10 November 2019 Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

INTRODUCTION

KUCHING, the Capital City of Sarawak, Malaysia, has the reputation of being the Hub and Gateway to the Crafts of the Indigenous Peoples of Sarawak, and . With the wealth and diversity of the various forms of Crafts of over thirty communities expressed in textile, fiber, ceramic, wood etc, Kuching has recently joined the ranks of other Crafts Cities around the World such as Jaipur (India), Jogjakarta ( Indonesia), Dongyang ( China), Dehua (China), Sakon Nakhon ( Thailand), Isfahan ( Iran), and twenty other cities around the World that has been accredited as Craft Cities by the World Crafts Council, a UNESCO Category A Affiliate Organization.

In celebration of Kuching as World crafts Council- City for Crafts, and in fulfillment of the obligation to host the Biennale for Craffts, it is now proposed that Kuching will host the World Crafts Cities Network Forum on 8th and 9th November in conjunction with the AHPADA/WEFT Symposium event being held concurrently.

It is proposed that the following Dignitaries and City Governors/Mayors (or their official representatives be invited:

1. Yogjakarta, Indonesia – Governor, HRM Sultan Hemangku 2. Gianyar, - Governor 3. Khon Kaen, Thailand- Governor 4. Sakon Nakhon, Thailand- Governor 5. Chiangmai, Thailand- Governor 6. Jaipur, India- Chief Minister 7. Mahabalipuram, India- Chief Minister 8. Dongyang, China- Mayor 9. Huian, China- Mayor 10. Dehua, China- Mayor 11. Fuxin, China- Mayor 12. Donghai, China- Mayor 13. Xianyou, China- Mayor 14. Isfahan, Iran- Mayor 15. Tabriz, Iran- Mayor 16. Mashad, Iran- Mayor 17. Lalejin, Iran- Mayor 18. Marivan, Iran- Mayor 19. Sirjan, Iran- Mayor 20. Kalporjan, Iran- Mayor 21. Madaba, Jordan- Mayor 22. Tripoli- Mayor 23. Hebron, Palestine- Mayor 24. New Hebrides, Scotland- Mayor 25. Bonnholm, Denmark- Mayor 26. Rari, - Mayor 27. Chimbarongo, Chile- Mayor 28. Donihue, Chile- Mayor 29. Liguine, Chile- Mayor

NETWORKING IN CRAFTS, CULTURE AND TOURISM

• With a wide variety of specialization among the craft cities in WCC-Asia Pacific Region, there is a great potential for cooperation between the cities in WCC- APR which have similar or same crafts, for instance:

• 1. JAIPUR, ISFAHAN and HEBRON: crafts in general. Having been designated as WCC- world craft cities for crafts in general, they have the advantage of organizing thematic events from a wide selection of specializations.

• 2. MASHHAD, FUXIN and DONGHAI: Designated for specialization in hard stone, namely: semi-precious stones, agate, and rock crystal. They can concentrate on their specialization exchanging technological skills and design.

• 3. TABRIZ AND SIRJAN: Carpet and Weaving. Both cities can innovate tremendously especially that Sirjan already started mixing both techniques of carpet weaving and kilim in their product.

• 4. MAMALLAPURAM AND HUI’AN: Stone carving. Exchanging skills and techniques in carving is possible.

• 5. DEHUA, LALEJIN AND KALPOURGAN: Porcelain, wheel pottery and hand-made pottery. They have a wide space for innovative ideas to be implemented with different tools and techniques.

• 6. JOGJAKARTA, SAKON NAKHON: , indigo-dye. Two different styles of techniques in coloring and decorating woven fabrics.

• 7. DONGYANG AND XIANYOU: Woodcarving and wood furniture. One of them complements the other.

IT IS FURTHER NOTED THAT BETWEEN KUCHING AND JOGJAKARTA ( INDONESIA), there is already an MOU in ASEAN TOURISM NETWORK!

VIP GUESTS FROM WORLD CRAFTS COUNCIL TO INCLUDE:

WCC WORLD PRESIDENT- MS. ROSY GREENLEEVES (BRITAIN) WCC ASIA PACIFIC PRESIDENT- DR. GHADA HIJJAWI QADDUMI WCC WORLD CRAFTS CITIES ADVISOR- MDM USHA KRISHNA WCC APR ADVISORS- DR SURAPEE ROJANAVONGSE WCC APR ADVISOR- YM RAJA RUZIAH RAJA TUN UDA WCC APR SEIOR VICE PRESIDENT- MDM MANJARI NIRULA