Geografski vestnik 88-2, 2016, 103–131 Reviews/Razgledi

REVIEWS/RAZGLEDI

THE BEGINNINGS Of THE RESEARCH Of SLOVENIAN ALPS ZAČETKI RAZISKOVANJA SLOVENSKIH ALP

AUTHORS/AVTORJA dr. Pe ter Mikša Uni ver sity of Ljub lja na, Fa culty of Arts, De part ment of Hi story, Aškerčeva ce sta 2, SI – 1000 Ljub lja na, Slo venia pe ter.mik sa @ff.uni-lj.si dr. Ma ti ja Zorn Re search Cen tre of the Slo ve nian Aca demy of Scien ces and Arts, An ton Me lik Geo grap hi cal In sti tu te, Gosposka uli ca 13, SI – 1000 Ljub lja na, Slo ve nia ma ti ja.zorn @zrc-sazu.si

DOI: 10.3986/GV88206 UDC/UDK: 910.4:94(497.4) COBISS: 1.02

ABSTRACT The be gin nings of the re search of Slo ve nian Alps Ni nety years ago, Jože Rus (1926) pub lis hed an ar tic le in the jour nal Geo graf ski vest nik en tit led »Tri glav: Hi sto ri cal and Geo grap hi cal Sketc hes«. Nine de ca des la ter, we wish to shed light on the hi story of the »dis- co very« and study of Slo ve nian moun tains, fo cu sing on the »clas sic« re search of the 17th and 18th cen tu ries. We briefly pre sent the mo ti va tions for their »dis co very« and the main ac tors. Se lec ted car to grap hic pre - sen ta tion of Slo ve nian moun tains from that pe riod are also briefly pre sen ted.

KEY WORDS geo graphy, hi sto ri cal re views, moun tain re search, Mount Tri glav, Alps

IZVLEČEK Začetki ra zi sko va nja slo ven skih Alp Pred de vet de se ti mi leti je Jože Rus (1926) v Geo graf ske vest ni ku ob ja vil čla nek z na slo vom »Tri glav: Histo - rij sko-geo graf ske črti ce«. Po de ve tih de set let jih želi mo po nov no os vet li ti zgo do vi no »od kri va nja« in preučeva nja slo ven skih gora s pou dar kom na »kla sičnih« ra zi ska vah v 17. in 18. sto let ju. Na krat ko pred - stav lja mo vzgi be za nji ho vo »od kri va nje« in glav ne ak ter je. Na krat ko so pred stav lje ni tudi iz bra ni kar to graf ski pri ka zi slo ven skih gora tega ob dob ja.

KLJUČNE BESEDE geo gra fi ja, zgo do vin ski pre gle di, preučeva nje gora, Tri glav, Alpe

The ar tic le was sub mit ted for pub li ca tion on March 21, 2016 . Ured ništvo je pris pe vek pre je lo 21. mar ca 2016.

103 Pe ter Mikša, Ma ti ja Zorn The be gin nings of the re search of Slo ve nian Alps

1 Introduction

Ninety years ago, Jože Rus (1926) published an article in the journal Geografski vestnik entitled »Triglav: Historical and Geographical Sketches«, and a few years later its sequel (Rus 1929/30; partly Rus 1933). After that the journal never again published any topics connected with the history of the »discovery« and study of Slovenian mountains. Generally speaking, broader topics connected with the mountains were rare; the only ones worth mentioning are the Alpine pasture economy (Vojvoda 1970), the upper forest line (Lovrenčak 1971; Plesnik 1971) and the mountain farms (Kerbler 2003; 2008). Also rare were his - torical reviews in other fields (e.g. Habič 1989; Gams 1990; Perko and Zorn 2008; Zorn and Gašperič 2016). Nine decades later, we wish to shed light on the history of the »discovery« and study of Slovenian mountains, focusing on the »classic« research of the 17th and 18th centuries. We briefly present the motivations for their »discovery« and the main actors. In the past, people visited and settled the mountains for a number of reasons, either because the lowland areas were overpopulated, for the purposes of farming (Alpine dairy farming), hunting, search - ing for ore, exploiting the forests, or to retreat from invaders. These people were mostly shepherds, hunters, ore seekers and herbalists, who were familiar with the nearby mountains and experienced much more there than is included in the sparing reports (historical sources). They went there anonymously – with - out those close to them knowing and without leaving any written traces (Mikša 2013, 391). The Alps and other mountains have been dividing peoples since the dawn of time. They were also the homes of the gods and were best avoided. People feared the mountains because they did not under - stand the natural phenomena that were more intense there than in the valley below. How could one not be in awe of the »stony desert« ascending high into the sky, the steep rockwalls, the jagged glaciers , where a »small« weather hazard can turn into a life-threatening situation. It must be pointed out that N R O Z A J I T A M Figure 1: Chapel of Saint Mary of the Snows on Velika planina mountain plateau in Kamnik-Savinja Alps (1,560 m); behind Mount Ojstrica (2,350 m).

104 Geografski vestnik 88-2, 2016 Reviews/Razgledi M U E S U M E N I P L A N A I N E V O L S N R O Z A J I T A M Figure 2: Chapel of Saint Mary of the Snows and Kredarica hut (2,515 m) in the Julian Alps at the beginning of the 20th century (upper figure) and today (lower figure).

105 Pe ter Mikša, Ma ti ja Zorn The be gin nings of the re search of Slo ve nian Alps the »taboo« was mostly the peaks of mountains, but only those that were high enough. The criterion was not their altitude but the natural geographic conditions (Mikša 2013, 391). Mountain peaks as homes of the gods can be found in almost every pagan mythology – Olympus was the dwelling of the Greek gods, Kajlas is still a holy mountain of the Hindus and the Tibetans, and Triglav was said to be the home of a three-headed god according to old Slavic beliefs (Šaver 2005, 101). The Bible likewise did not deny the mountains the respect they deserve. One can quickly think of the importance of Mount Sinai (Zorn and Komac 2007), Mount Gilboa and others. Believers think that we are closer to God in the mountains. The significance of mountains in the spiritual sense has been preserved to this very day. One of the oldest mountain pilgrimages and the oldest preserved text about climbing a mountain is the ascent of nobleman Bonifacio Rotario D’Asti on 1 September 1358 to the summit of Mount Rocciamelone (3,538 m) above the town of Susa in Italy. He carried a heavy brass triptych with the image of the Virgin Mary to the top of the mountain as a token of his gratitude for surviving Turkish enslavement. Nowadays, believers are still going on pilgrimages to see this image. The Virgin Mary is the protector of many Christian shrines in the mountains (Figure 1). Her statues or paintings have been placed on the peaks of La Meije and Aiguille du Dru in France, on Dom and Matterhorn in Switzerland (Engel 1950) and, last but not least, the chapel on Mount Kredarica (Figure 2), which is dedicated to Saint Mary of the Snows, was erected by Jakob Aljaž in 1896 (Mikša 2015, 121). In the older history of visits to the mountains the most famous story of all is most likely that of Hannibal’s crossing of the Alps in 218 BC from modern-day France to the Apennine Peninsula. In the case of this and a few subsequently recorded crossings, such as the winter crossing of Mont Cenis (France) by Holy Roman Emperor Henry IV, who travelled to Pope Gregory IX in 1076, or the pilgrimage of the English monk John de Bremble, who crossed Saint Bernard between modern-day Switzerland and Italy on his way to Rome in 1178, the ascent was not connected with the admiration or research of the moun - tainous world (Mikša and Ajlec 2015, 11). In all probability, the same can be said for the oldest recorded crossing (by »Ötzi« ), which was carried out approximately 5300 years ago in the Ötztal Alps; according to one explanation, it was connected with trade (LeBlanc and Register 2003, 4; The Iceman 2016). Visiting the mountains out of necessity is probably as old as humanity itself, whereas other motives are much younger. The »honour« of the first recorded ascent for recreational purposes or » … in the desire to reach a significant height …« (Kugy 1976, 23), and not out of necessity, belongs to the medi - aeval poet Francesco Petrarch, who ascended the 1,912 metres high Mount Ventoux in Provence in 1336 with his brother and two servants. Some call this ascent the origin of mountaineering for it is believed to denote a shift in the attitude towards mountains. At a time when his contemporaries were avoiding mountains, he »… was the first to ascend a mountain for the mountain itself in order to enjoy the view …« (Coates 1998, 65–66). However, according to Coates (1998, 65–66), on the summit Petrarch became engrossed in the Confessions of Saint Augustine which warn people not to confuse the creation and the creator, and not to be seduced by the landscape. For this reason, he became ashamed of what he had done. Also famous is the ascent by Leonardo da Vinci, who conquered Monboso (2,556 m) near Monte Rosa in 1511. Da Vinci also mentions climbing to the top of Tre Signori in the Monte della Dizgrazia mountain range, but the year of ascent is unknown, as is the attained altitude (Strojin 1978, 88).

2 »Discovering« the mountains

In the age of Enlightenment in the 17th and 18th centuries, the intelligentsia began to »discover« the mountainous world. Prior to that, the interest in mountains had grown slightly during Humanism and the Renaissance (Mikša and Ajlec 2015, 12). Older literature mentions rigid milestones in the attitude of European intellectuals towards the envi - ronment or in the attitude of society towards mountains in the Middle Ages and Early Modern Age

106 Geografski vestnik 88-2, 2016 Reviews/Razgledi

(Zwitter 2014, 619). Were mountains in the middle of the second millennium more people-friendly or were they still only »… ugly warts that disfigure the world of the cultured plain …« (Batagelj 2009, 76). Nature was in the Modern Ages still considered beautiful and pleasant only in places where it had been »… tamed and drawn in with a pair of compasses and a ruler …« (Batagelj 2009, 76). Zwitter (2014, 619) writes that some have tried to prove that »… the Humanism of the 14th and 15th centuries was a mile - stone [regarding the attitude of intelligentsia towards the environment or society towards mountains] , while others saw a turning point in the greater mastering of nature through scientific progress in the 17th century; still others saw it in the Romanticism of the late 18th century, which they interpreted as a reac - tion to technological progress – this is thought to have led to the re-evaluation of the attitude towards environments which had previously been considered »wild«, for instance the Alps. In truth, it was a lengthy transformation process without uniform temporal dynamics in space. A highly positive evaluation of land - scape can already be found in the 17th century and earlier, whereas in the late 18th century religious and magical explanations of natural features and processes were still common. A distinct secularisation in the very presentation of nature occurred between the 17th and 19th centuries …«. When discussing the beginnings of the descriptions of the Alps, we should make mention of Johann Jakob Scheuchzer (1672–1733), who traversed several Swiss mountains, measured them using a barometer and described his findings in the work Itinera alpina (1723), and Josias Simler (1530–1576), who published the work De Alpibus commentarius in 1574 (Simler 1984). This work is considered the first monograph on the Alps and discusses their formation and geology, their names, position, divi - sion, flora, and fauna. It is of interest to Slovenians because Chapter 13 mentions the Julian and Carnic Alps, explains the origin of the name, enumerates the rivers, and includes a map of Carniola (Figure 3; Strojin 2009, 23).

Figure 3: Map of Carniola in the work of Josias Simler De Alpibus commentarius from 1574. The Carnic Alps are placed in the Western Slovenian Prealps.

107 Pe ter Mikša, Ma ti ja Zorn The be gin nings of the re search of Slo ve nian Alps

3 Slovenian Alps in the »prehistory« of visiting the mountains

Archaeological research shows that humans have been present in the Slovenian Alps for a very long time. Tens of thousands of years ago, hunters and gatherers found shelter in caves in the mountains, such as Potočka zijalka (1,675 m; Figure 4) on Mount Olševa, in Medvedova jama (1,500 m) on Mount Mokrica or in the Divje babe cave in the Idrija and Cerkno hills (450 m). The finds of weapons from the Bronze Age are the first accumulated evidence of people visiting the Slovenian high mountains. Individual weapons were left there, which was probably connected with offerings to the gods (Cevc 2006 , 6–7). It is likely that many peaks were ascended long before the Middle Ages. In the Middle Ages, the Alpine passes were becoming more and more important for conducting trade. The routes over the passes of the Karavanke mountains were surely known in prehistoric times, and Roman finds prove that the Ljubelj Pass (1,370 m) had been used in Antiquity. Ljubelj is often men - tioned in sources from the 13th century, »… when traffic must have already been quite intense …« (Kosi 1998, 253–254). In the Middle Ages, the road over Jezerski vrh/Seeberg Saddle (1,218 m) was a par - allel and equivalent one; the path over Korensko sedlo/Wurzen Pass (1,073 m) was not used until the Upper Sava Valley was colonised in the 13th and 14th centuries (Kosi 1998, 254, 257). Another ancient connection was the one over the Predel Pass in the Julian Alps (Kosi 1998, 245). Such travels were con - nected with various dangers, ranging from natural disasters to attacks from the locals. In order to help pilgrims, merchants and travellers, numerous »hospices« or shelters were built at the passes or on the roads leading to them; later on, they developed into inns with lodgings. One such hospice was »Jenkova kasarna« on the road from Zgornje Jezersko toward Jezerski vrh (Figure 5; Janša Zorn 2000). N R O Z A J I T A M Figure 4: Potočka Zijalka is an important cave site from the early Upper Paleolithic.

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4 first researchers of the Slovenian mountains

Among the researchers of Slovenian provinces from the 17th century, the Carniolan nobleman Janez Vajkard Valvasor (1641–1693) stands out. In the work The Glory of the Duchy of Carniola (1689) he described and for the first time wrote down the first known ascents of the low-lying Slovenian eleva - tions. The names of various elevations, valleys and rivers had been mentioned before, e.g. as boundary markers for estates in various documents, such as deeds of gift (Mikša 2013, 392). »… In the second half of the 17th century, scholars that were studying nature typically interwove the emerging natural sciences with natural philosophy and religious and magical explanations; the same holds true for The Glory; Valvasor did not label all the contents he was unable to understand as miracles; he was aware that there were many natural phenomena he did not understand …« (Zwitter 2014, 619). Valvasor did not devote any special interest to the visiting and researching of mountains; he merely described them in general – Volume II contains the chapter »On Mountains in Upper Carniola« (Valvasor 2009, Volume II, 141). He also mentions the mountains when enumerating and discussing various passes and roads. He also touches upon the mountains in the chapter on natural landmarks. In the chapter »On Natural Rarities of the Province of Carniola« he mentions the mountains Crain-berg and Kerma. The first is situated near Kranjska Gora (Valvasor 2009, Volume II, 141, Volume IV, 558). Judging by the description of »a hole through the mountain«, which leads from Upper Carniola to Bovec, he was prob - ably referring to Mount Prisojnik and its Okno (»window«). Because he had not traversed these areas by himself, he might have confused Okno with the neighbouring Vršič Pass (1,611 m), over which an ancient road led from the Sava Valley to the Bovec region. In the description of the second mountain, N R O Z A J I T A M Figure 5: Jenkova kasarna in Zgornje Jezersko was built in the 15th century to accommodate merchants for the night.

109 Pe ter Mikša, Ma ti ja Zorn The be gin nings of the re search of Slo ve nian Alps he states that it is situated between Mojstrana and Bovec, from which we can deduce that he was refer - ring to the Triglav mountain chain. In the chapter »On the Unusual Characteristics of Mount Krma« he writes: »… What is even odder is this: If anyone cracks a whip on this mountain at noon, a thunder- and hailstorm will immediately follow, no matter how clear the day is. Though an intelligent reader may find this highly unusual and unlikely, these are not merely rumours but a verified fact. And the reader must not think that it is corroborated only by statements from the people living nearby. In recent years, Johann Baptista Patermann and Laurentius von Rechberg have borne witness to this personally, both of whom are doctors of medicine. « (Valvasor 2009, Volume IV, 562). We thus learn from Valvasor of two of his predecessors who had walked in the vicinity of Triglav in the 17th century. Unfortunately, that is also all that Valvasor has to say about their ascent of Mount Kerma and about them. He introduces by name and briefly describes the mountains of Jelovica, Storžič and Grintovec, and their location (Kugy 1973). Based on Valvasor’s notes and sketches, the graphic illustrations of his book were creat - ed, which consist of maps, panoramas (Chapter 5) and drawings of individual sites and buildings. In the 18th century, »visitors« to Slovenian mountains can already be divided into four groups: (for - eign) intelligentsia (Chapter 4.1), local nobility (Chapter 4.2), Slovenian clergy (Chapter 4.3), and local mountain guides (Chapter 4.4).

4.1 foreign intelligentsia In the 18th century, individual natural scientists became interested in the Slovenian Alps, especially due to their abundant flora and fauna and special geological features. Among the foreign intelligentsia who were stationed in Carniola, we should mention the South Tyrolean Giovanni Antonio Scopoli (1723–1788), a doctor in Idrija who was interested in botany, which was also his main motive for visiting the mountains. He laid the foundations for the natural science study of Carniola. He studied Carniolan flora and fauna. Between 1755 and 1766 he travelled across much of the land and in 1758 was the first to be documented to set foot on Mount Storžič (2,132 m) and in 1759 on Mount Grintovec (2,558 m). In the years 1761 and 1762 he traversed the Bohinj and Tolmin mountains and ascended the southern foothills of Mount Triglav above the Velo polje moun - tain pasture (Bufon 1967, 256–258). Scopoli’s work drew Baltazar Hacquet (1739/40–1815), of French descent, to Idrija. He wrote: »… I chose Carniola because of its natural science and the well-known mercury mine; not to mention that the famous Scopoli used to live there …« (Lunazzi 2010, 88). In addition to conquering Triglav, Hacquet traversed Čaven, the Triglav Lakes Valley, Golak, Gorjanci, Gotenica, Javornik, Krim, Ljubelj, Mokrc, Nanos, Porezen, Snežnik and Učka. He traversed all of the hills surrounding the Ljubljana Basin, and headed from Vrhnika across the Polhov Gradec Hills to the Poljane Valley, Kropa, Kamna Gorica, Radovljica and Bled. He wrote the comprehensive book Oryctography of Carniola (Oryctographia Carniolica oder physikalische Beschreibung des Herzogthums Krain, Istrien und zum Theil der benach - barten Länder ), which was published in four volumes from 1778 to 1789. As part of his preparations in 1777, he was documented as the first to attempt to reach the summit of Triglav (2,864 m), which indicated and confirmed the main »obsession« of researchers of Slovenian Alps in the 18th and 19th centuries – to conquer the highest mountain. He managed to ascend past the Konjščica and Velo polje mountain pastures to the Mali Triglav peak (2,725 m); this path was given the name »the Bohinj Approach«. He gave a report on his ascent (Kugy 1973, 44–47): »… I was climbing up the rocks. For the first two hours I did not encounter any greater obstacles in the indentation of the rocks, because there was much gravel and snow lying around. But after I had moved on I realised that my people had been telling the truth when they said that not many people had made it up here or even none at all, at least none of the botanists, for I found plants that not even Scopoli nor anyone else had noticed and will describe them at an opportune time. As regards the type of rock, I noticed limestone and ferruginous clay […] The fol - lowing day, I tried to storm the mountain from the other side with my fellow travellers, but the weather

110 Geografski vestnik 88-2, 2016 Reviews/Razgledi did not permit it. I therefore settled for studying the components of the mountain. But I hope that I will ascend it next time, after obtaining De Luca’s barometer to measure its altitude. «. After Hacquet’s failed attempt to conquer Triglav, Baron Žiga Zois (Chapter 4.2), who was the finan - cial supporter of Hacquet’s conquests of peaks, decided to hasten the ascent of its summit by offering a reward, partly because of his interest in geology and in minerals in particular, and partly because he owned iron - works in Bohinj. The summit was conquered one year later, on 26 August 1778 (Mikša and Ajlec 2015, 15). Scopoli and Hacquet are given credit for »revealing« the Eastern Alps to the broader region (Mikša and Ajlec 2015, 13). Also active in Carniola and Carinthia was the natural scientist franz Xaver von Wulfen (1728–1805), of Swedish-Hungarian descent, who was interested in botany and mineralogy. He, too, had climbed several mountains (e.g. Storžič, Grintovec, Mangart, Triglav) (Petkovšek 1986, 725). Another foreign researcher is Lovrenz Willomitzer (1747?–1801), of Hungarian descent, a student of Hacquet’s and a surgeon in Carniola, who was among the first to ascend Triglav in 1778. In August of 1779, he was again on top of Triglav on (Zois’s) orders, accompanying Hacquet who then measured Triglav’s altitude (Munda 1986, 698–699). Henrik freyer (1802–1866), who was of Czech descent, was born in Idrija. He was stationed as a phar - macist in Idrija, Zagreb, Graz, and Ljubljana, after which he took up the post of curator at the Provincial Museum in Ljubljana. Several animal fossils were named after him (Zorn 2005, 227). Freyer climbed to the summit of Triglav in 1837 from the Krma Valley, which is the first known ascent of Triglav from this area. It was also the first ascent done without a guide (Pintar 1926, 189).

4.2 Local nobility In addition to the aforementioned intelligentsia, the first researchers of Slovenian mountains also include representatives of the Carniolan nobility, who were likewise interested in natural sciences and were discovering mountains for natural science reasons. Their leading representative is Baron Žiga Zois; others include his brother Karel Zois, Count Franc Jožef Hanibal Hochenwart and Count Rihard Ursini Blagaj (1786–1858), after whom certain minerals (e.g. zoisite), plants (e.g. Daphne blagayana ) and ani - mals (e.g. cave beetle Leptodirus hochenwartii ) have been named. Without a doubt, the most important one is Žiga Zois (1747–1819), who was unable to take part in the climbs due to illness, but who promoted them and provided financial support (Valenčič, Faninger and Gspan-Prašelj 1991). At the end of the 18th century, he also became involved in the discussion on the formation of rocks. »… Towards the end of the 18th century, geology was starting to become a modern science. At that time there were two conflicting theories regarding the formation of rocks …« (Faninger 1994/1995, 562). Neptunists claimed that rocks had been deposited in the sea, whereas the volcanists advocated a volcanic origin. An eager member of the latter was Johann Ehrenreich Fichtel (1732–1795). Based on Zois’s samples of rocks taken beneath Mount Triglav, Fichtel claimed in his book Mineralogische Aufsätze of 1794 that Triglav, Vršac and the surrounding peaks were formed by pre-limestone, which was allegedly of magmatic origin, i.e. fossil-free. Zois disagreed with Fichtel’s explanation, for he believed that the Triglav limestone was a marine sediment. In order to gather evidence, Zois organised an expe - dition in August 1795, led by Valentin Vodnik (Chapter 4.3) and attended by Count Hochenwart (Rus 1933 , 101; Faninger 1983, 6; 1994/1995, 562; Zorn 2005; 2015). The expedition proceeded through the Triglav Lakes Valley to Mount Vršac (2,194 m; Figure 6) and onward to Triglav. They found fossils on the way there and on Vršac itself. Upon this discovery, Zois wrote (Rus 1933, 101): »… This trace (of the ammonite (Figure 7) found on top of Vršac) is most welcome, for it gives us hope that in the future fossils will be found at the highest spots, which will provide a mathematical proof that our limestone rock masses are of the same age and origin. …«. Vodnik’s poem »Vršac« is said to have been written based on impressions from the expedition. Leaving aside the debates regarding which mountain the poet is actually signing about or if Vodnik’s Vršac is even in the Triglav Lakes Valley (Orožen 1899), we cannot ignore the

111 Pe ter Mikša, Ma ti ja Zorn The be gin nings of the re search of Slo ve nian Alps N R O Z A J I T A M Figure 6: Zasavska koča hut (2,071 m) on the Prehodavci Pass and Mount Vršac (2,194 m) with clearly visible beds of limestone (right). N R O Z A J I T A M Figure 7: In the upper part of the Triglav Lakes Valley, near Prehodavci Pass, we can see red nodular bedded limestones of the Upper Member of the Prehodavci Formation (Šmuc 2015, 34), containing many fossils of ammonites (an extinct group of marine animals, cephalopod with a coiled shell).

112 Geografski vestnik 88-2, 2016 Reviews/Razgledi second , »geological« stanza of the poem: » Layer upon layer it rises, a stone wall of bare peaks. The eter - nal master commands: Come, builder, and learn about wood! «. According to Rus (1933, 104), in the first sentence Vodnik touches upon »… the magnificence of the geological structure he had discovered on his famous hike in August 1795 …«, whereas with the rhetorical summons in the second sentence »… the poet is addressing the builder/geologist J. E. Fichtel to abandon scholarly work in his study and come to the very spot, to nature to learn …«. A month later another expedition headed to the Triglav; it was joined by Vodnik. There they dis - covered enough fossils to prove that the top part of Triglav was also made up of limestone of marine origin (Rus 1933, 102). In the second half of the 18th century, Karel Zois (1756–1799) (Praprotnik 1991, 827–828) was important as a botanist; two plants are named after him, namely Campanula zoysii (Figure 8) and Viola zoysii . He collected the plants for his herbarium on the peaks of the Karavanke mountains, the Kamnik- Savinja Alps, and the Julian Alps. His mountaineering and research legacy includes the erection of the first high-alpine shelters. He had one erected at the Dvojno jezero lake or at the Pri Utah pasture in the Triglav Lakes Valley, and another on Velo polje mountain pasture. He allegedly also had a shelter in the upper section of the Triglav Lakes Valley (Erhartič 2012, 23). It is said that he built these shel - ters for the purposes of botanical research, which was also mentioned by Hochenwart, who stayed at the shelter in the Triglav Lakes Valley during a research expedition in 1795. While enjoying the view from »stapze« (Štapce saddle) of the surrounding rockwalls and screes, he wrote the following (Hochenwart 1838, 52): »… Travelling through Bohinj is worth it for this vista alone … This view is so special and seems to go against … the laws of gravity; if I had not seen it with my own two eyes … I would be convinced that such an image were impossible in nature […]; on all the mountains of Carniola, one cannot find a view so beautiful and enchanting …«. He also wrote that while staying at the hospitable hut, they had been able to admire the work of Karel Zois and many plant specimens. The hut was made R A G R T S R E T E P Figure 8: Campanula zoysii (Dakskobler 2015, 65).

113 Pe ter Mikša, Ma ti ja Zorn The be gin nings of the re search of Slo ve nian Alps of larch wood and had a spacious kitchen, which also served as a bedroom for the accompaniers (e.g. carriers). It had a dining room, a section of which was intended for storing food and the collect - ed plants; sleeping quarters for guests and select companions; and a living room and bedroom for Baron Zois (Hochenwart 1838, 52). franc Hochenwart (1771–1844) was the co-founder of the Carniolan Provincial Museum and a pio - neer of conquering Slovenian mountains (Mal 1928, 331). On the initiative of Žiga Zois, he climbed Mount Planjava (2,392 m) in 1793, together with the hunter Spruk, the first guide in the Kamnik-Savinja Alps to be known by name. A year later he scaled Mount Mangart (2,679 m).

4.3 Slovenian clergy The third group of people interested in mountains in that period was Slovenian clergymen. They too were guided in part by natural science, but were mostly interested in the romantic admiration of the beauties of the mountains. A prominent member of Zois’s circle is Valentin Vodnik (1758–1819), who often travelled to the vicinity of Mount Triglav; his first trip was in 1794 as a curate in the village of Koprivnik. In 1795, as has already been mentioned, he led Zois’s expedition to the Triglav mountains (Kos and Toporišič 1986, 509–528). In memory of the expedition he wrote the ode »Vršac«, which is considered one of the most beautiful hymns to Slovenian mountains, and Vodnik the originator of Slovenian mountaineering poet - ry (Orožen 1895a; 1895b). Zois thanked Vodnik for leading the expedition, but even more important from the aspect of visits to mountains are the words he wrote at the time : »… Count Hochenwart and abbe Pinhak came home as if drunk with joy …« (Lovšin 1944, 96), which is probably the first Slovenian description of exhilaration and high spirits associated with mountains. In addition to Valentin Vodnik, this group also includes brothers Jakob (1782–1836) and Ivan Dežman (1782–1832), curates in the villages of Srednja vas and Bohinjska Bistrica; and Valentin Stanič. Stanič and Vodnik, in particular, described their ascents and wrote poems about mountains (Zorn 2005, 232). The Dežman brothers set out to Triglav on 1 September 1808, in the first year of their clerical ser - vice beneath the Julian Alps. Only Jakob came to the top. After their descent, Jakob wrote a letter to Valentin Vodnik, giving him a comprehensive report on his mountaineering experiences. In his letter, Dežman did not describe any expert findings, nor did he try to express his emotions with a poetic lan - guage. He wrote in a simple, narrative language in order to present his ascent and the events; he also mentioned the beauties of nature. In August 1809, Ivan Dežman climbed Triglav as well, and left a short text in a bottle, in which, in addition to praising his courage, he wrote the following: » So courageous was I that this note should stay here on the summit; do not take it for my greatest joy is in the mountains. « (Lovšin 1944, 99). The Dežman brothers might be considered the early or perhaps even one of the first visitors to mountains in Carniola, who went to the high mountains merely out of longing for nature and leisure activities; one might say for tourist mountaineering purposes. In addition to the desire to see nature’s beauties, their predecessors also had other motives – research and economic ones. One of the important individuals at the time of the increase in the research of Slovenian Alps is Valentin Stanič (1774–1847), who is considered the first Slovenian alpinist and one of the pioneers of European alpinism in general (Klemun 2000, 192–195). He would often use his climbs to research the botany and geology, and to measure altitudes. He was admired the most for scaling Großglockner (3,798 m) in 1800, only a single day after it had been ascended for the first time; and in the same year for the first ascent of the second highest mountain in Germany – Watzmann (2,713 m). He was on top of Triglav in 1808 and measured its altitude. He also climbed Prestreljenik, Mangart, Krn, Matajur and Kanin. Even though at first Stanič was lured to the mountains by research, his writings suggest that purely Alpine climbing motives began to prevail – to climb as many mountains as possible and be the first to ascend unconquered peaks, for he had allegedly said: » Quis (montium) contra me? « or »Which mountain could defy me!« (Orožen 1907, 7), and to experience exertion and joy when doing so. Stanič

114 Geografski vestnik 88-2, 2016 Reviews/Razgledi wrote: » As soon as you save yourself from the precipice of doom, you are overwhelmed by indescribable delight! « (Orožen 1907, 7).

4.4 Local mountain guides A special group of visitors to Slovenian mountains in the period in question contains the local moun - tain guides, without whom the aforementioned intelligentsia would not have risked a dangerous hike to the mountains. Their ascents, unlike those of the above-mentioned men, were not governed by nat - ural science or romantic motives, but economic ones (pasturage, mining, mountain guiding and hunting). In this group, one cannot speak of a conscious discovery of mountains. Let us mention the best-known representatives of this group, the three locals that were the first to climb to the top of Triglav with the surgeon Willomitzer on 26 August 1778 – the farmer and hunter Štefan Rožič, the miner Matevž Kos, and the farmer and miner Luka Korošec (Mikša and Ajlec 2015, 13). In the first half of the 19th century, the interest in Slovenian mountains spread to a few other occu - pational groups, such as geodesists, officers, and mineral traders. This was also the time when the researching of mountains turned into the visiting of mountains.

5 Slovenian mountains in cartographic and other depictions of the 17th and 18th centuries

Knowledge of the mountains is also reflected in its cartographic depictions. In the 17th and 18th cen - turies, the mountains were depicted with shaded hill profiles (shaded »molehills«, mounds), whose position is inaccurate but nevertheless enabled the reader to imagine the locations of these elevations. Toward the end of the 18th century, these hill profiles were replaced with »hachures« (Gašperič 2016, 75, 151). Large-scale maps could be used as an aid in potential boundary disputes. One example is the plan made by Matija Ločnikar in 1701, which depicts the valleys of Spodnja Krma and Radovna with the Kot Valley in the background (Rus 1926, 89). A thorough review of the maps of Slovenian territory from Antiquity to the 20th century was done by Gašperič (2007), while a review of the mountains in old maps of the territory of Slovenia was done by Gašperič and Zorn (2011). In the 17th century, we would like to point out Janez Vajkard Valvasor and his work The Glory of the Duchy of Carniola (1689; 2009). In addition to providing data and being of scientific and artistic importance, it also contains a few maps. The most important one is the map of the Duchy of Carniola (Figure 9). The mountains are depicted with shaded hill profiles and their position is inaccurate; how - ever, the river network is depicted relatively well. Its main quality lies in the fact that it can help the reader to imagine the spatial location (Gašperič and Zorn 2011, 6). Valvasor also depicted the mountains in panoramas and illustrations next to descriptions of indi - vidual sites, which show castles, monasteries and other important buildings. Four panoramas are important from the aspect of the depictions of mountains – the depiction of Auersperg Castle (Turjak; Volume XI, 26–27), Ehrenau Castle (Ajman Castle near Sveti Duh; Volume XI, 128–129), Mönckendorff Monastery (Mekinje; Volume XI, 368–369) and Wagensperg Castle (Bogenšperk; Volume XI, 620–621). Other impor - tant illustrations are: Egg (Brdo; Volume XI, 129), Gallenfels (Golnik; Volume XI, 166), Kaltenbrunn (Studenec; Volume XI, 295), Katzenstein (Kamen; Volume XI, 299) and Litey (Litija; Volume XI, 343). Then there are the drawings of Lake Bled with Bled Castle and the background showing the Pokljuka plateau (Volume XI, 611); of Lake Bohinj with the spring of the Savica Stream (Volume II, 159); of the Kokra Valley (Volume II, 136; Figure 10); and the Kamniška Bistrica Valley (Volume II, 153) (Lož ar 1936, 197, 199). For more information on the depictions of Slovenian mountains in the 18th and 19th cen - turies see Ložar (1936).

115 Pe ter Mikša, Ma ti ja Zorn The be gin nings of the re search of Slo ve nian Alps Y R A R B I L Y T I S R E V I N U D N A L A N O I T A N Figure 9: Julian Alps on a map of Carniola by Janez Vajkard Valvasor of 1689. The map strongly resembles the one hundred years’ older map in the book of Simler (Figure 3).

Figure 10: The Kokra valley in Kamnik-Savinja Alps on the copper engraving by Janez Vajkard Valvasor of 1689.

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In the 18th century, the discipline of cartography made great progress (Gašperič 2016), and the knowl - edge of territories likewise improved. The reasons behind this can be found in the political, administrative or military desire or necessity to accurately measure and depict territories. This was a time of the inventions of various tools for measuring and determining geographical positions or of the ten - dency towards the exchange of knowledge and the unification of metric systems. The second half of the century marks the beginning of triangulation methods for measuring the surface, which greatly improved the accuracy of maps (Gašperič and Zorn 2011, 7). E T U T I T S N I L A C I H P A R G O E G K I L E M N O T N A U Z A S C R Z E H T F O M U E S U M L A C I H P A R G O E G Figure 11: Section of the map of Carniola by Janez Dizma Florjančič of 1744, giving the name and altitude of Triglav for the first time.

117 Pe ter Mikša, Ma ti ja Zorn The be gin nings of the re search of Slo ve nian Alps

In connection with the depiction of mountains in this period, we must point out the map of Carniola by Janez Dizma florjančič (Gašperič 2007, 269) of 1744 ( Ducatus Carnioliae Tabula Chorographica or the ‘Orographic Map of the Duchy of Carniola’). It still gives rough contours of peaks and their approx - imate locations, but it for the first time »… mentions the name of our highest mountain in the Slovenian language …« (Fridl and Šolar 2011, 214) ( Mons Terglou Carnioliae Altissimus ; Figure 11) and adds its altitude. Triglav was said to be 1,399 French fathoms high. For the measurements, Florjančič used an astrolabe (Držaj 1980, 156) equipped with a precise protractor. In those days, that device was used to determine the apparent position of the Sun, the Moon, the planets and the stars. Even though the alti - tude he measured is wrong, it still has great significance for it informs us that at that time Triglav was already considered the highest mountain in Carniola. »… Florjančič’s map is also the first map of our territory that shows the surface roughness more clearly .« (Fridl and Šolar 2011, 214). In the second half of the 18th century, Slovenian Alps were also depicted by Baltazar Hacquet . In his third volume of Oryctography of Carniola (1784) he published the map Mappa Litho- Hydrographica Nationis Slavicae (Lithological and Hydrological Map of Slavic Nations; Figure 12), which shows the area between the river basins of the Sava and Drava rivers. Mountains are shown on the map with shad - ing in the form of hill profiles. The river basins of both rivers and the larger towns have been drawn in correctly; a special feature is the marked ore deposits (Gašperič and Zorn 2011, 7). In the first volume of Oryctography of Carniola Hacquet published the first pictorial depiction of Triglav (copperplate). This depiction is misleading since it partially shows a mirror image – Mali Triglav is on the left instead of the right (Figure 13). The depiction also contains the name Veliki Terglau (Veliki Triglav) which, according to Hacquet’s measurements, was 1,549 French fathoms high or 3,018.7 m (Wester 1954, 60). Roughly half a century later, on the map Special-Karte des Herzogthums Krain (Special Map of the Duchy of Carniola), which was made by Henrik Freyer between 1844 and 1846, the altitude of Triglav is almost accurate – 9,316 feet or 2,843.8 m (Leban 1954, 135). In the second half of the 18th century (1784–1787), Slovenian Alps were also depicted on the Joseph II Military Land Survey maps (First (Habsburg) Military Survey). The maps were made in the largest scale until then (1: 28,800). Today these maps are regarded as the highest quality cartographic prod - uct of the era, which were at that time a strictly guarded secret. Relief is shown by hachures and additional clearness is achieved by the use of different colours. The maps are relatively accurate for lowlands, but very inaccurate for mountainous areas (Figure 14; Zorn 2007; Štular 2010; Gašperič and Zorn 2011).

Figure 12: Slovenian Alps in the work of Baltazar Hacquet Oryctography of Carniola (Volume III, 1784).

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Figure 13: First depiction of Triglav in the work of Baltazar Hacquet Oryctography of Carniola (Volume I, 1778).

119 Pe ter Mikša, Ma ti ja Zorn The be gin nings of the re search of Slo ve nian Alps

Figure 14: »Terglau« (Mount Triglav) and surroundings on the Joseph II Military Land Survey (survey Inner Austria (1784–1787), Section 134 (B1, C1); Rajšp and Serše 1998). The most notable inscription is »Kerma Gebirge« east of Mount Triglav on the ridge of Mount Rjavina (2,532 m). On the latter map of the Second Military Survey from the 19th century the geographical name »Kerma« is already in today’s Krma Valley.

6 Conclusion

The first visitors to Slovenian mountains were the locals – shepherds, hunters, ore seekers, and herbal - ists. They went to the mountains anonymously – without leaving any written traces – and for economic reasons. They knew the nearby mountainous world well and experienced much more in the moun - tains than was included in the sparing historical sources. Sources on visits to mountains become more frequent in the broader European area at the time of Humanism and the Renaissance, when we encounter the first descriptions of ascents of the more accessible peaks. In Slovenia, the first documented ascents can be traced to the 17th century. An important source for that period is Valvasor’s The Glory of the Duchy of Carniola , which, among other things, gives the first descriptions and drawings, and the names of researchers. Among Slovenian mountains Triglav was in the foreground (Rus 1926; 1929/30; 1933). By the end of the 1830s, when we can begin talking about visits to the Slovenian Alps and no longer about mere research, 21 ascents of Triglav were recorded (Mikša 2013, 401–402) .

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ZAČETKI RAZISKOVANJA SLOVENSKIH ALP

1 Uvod

Pred de vet de se ti mi leti je Jože Rus (1926) v Geo graf ske vest ni ku ob ja vil čla nek z na slo vom »Tri - glav: Hi sto rij sko-geo graf ske črti ce«, ne kaj let ka sne je pa še nje go vo na da lje va nje (Rus 1929/30; de lo ma tudi Rus 1933). Ka sne je se v re vi ji niso več pojavlja le teme po ve za ne z zgo do vi no »od kri va nja« in preučeva - nja slo ven skih gora. Na splošno so bile red ke širše teme po ve za ne z vzpe tim sve tom, iz po sta vi mo lah ko le pla nin sko gos po dars tvo (Voj vo da 1970), zgor njo gozd no mejo (Lo vrenčak 1971; Ple snik 1971) in hri - bov ske kme ti je (Kerb ler 2003; 2008). Red ki pa so bili tudi zgo do vin ski pre gle di na dru gih po dročjih (na pri mer Ha bič 1989; Gams 1990; Per ko in Zorn 2008; Zorn in Gašpe rič 2016). Po de ve tih de set let jih želi mo tako po nov no os vet li ti zgo do vi no »od kri va nja« in preučeva nja slo - ven skih gora s pou dar kom na »kla sičnih« ra zi ska vah v 17. in 18. sto let ju. Na krat ko pred stav lja mo vzgi be za nji ho vo »od kri va nje« in glav ne ak ter je. Ljud je so v pre te klo sti obi sko va li ter se na se lje va li v vzpe tem sve tu iz raz ličnih raz lo gov, bo di si za - ra di pre na se lje no sti nižin skih ob močij, kme tijs tva (planšars tvo), lova, is ka nja rud, iz ko riščanja goz dov ali umi ka pred za vo je val ci. To so bili po večini pa stir ji, lov ci, is kal ci rude in ze liščarji, ki so poz na li bližnji vzpe ti svet ter tam dožive li ve li ko več, kot o tem sko po po ročajo viri. Tja so pri sto pa li ano nim no – brez véde nja oko li ce in brez pi snih sle di (Mikša 2013, 391). Od nek daj so Alpe in dru ga gors tva raz dva ja la ljuds tva. Bila so tudi do mo va nja bo gov, ki so se jim raje izo gi bali. Gora so se bali, saj niso ra zu me li na rav nih po ja vov, ki so bili tam in ten ziv nejši kot v doli ni. Le kako člo vek ne bi imel stra hos pošto va nja pred »kam ni to puščavo«, ki se dvi ga da leč v višave, str mi mi ste na mi, raz braz da ni mi le de ni ki, kjer se »majh na« vre men ska ujma lah ko spre me - ni v življenjsko ne var no oko liščino. Ob tem je tre ba pou da ri ti, da so bili »tabu« pred vsem vr ho vi gora, a le ti sti, ki so bili do volj vi so ki. Me ri lo ni bila nad mor ska višina, tem več na rav no geo graf ske raz me - re (Mikša 2013, 391). Vr ho ve kot do mo va nje bo gov naj de mo v sko raj vsa ki po gan ski mi to lo gi ji – Olimp je bil pre bi va- lišče grških bo gov, Kaj las je še da nes sve ta gora tako Hin duj cev kot Ti be tan cev, pa tudi na Tri gla vu naj bi po sta ro slo van skem ve ro va nju živel tri gla vi bog (Šaver 2005, 101). Tudi Bib li ja go ram ni od teg ni la spošto va nja. Ni težko pou da ri ti po men gora Si naj (Zorn in Ko- mac 2007), Gil boa in dru gih. Po pre pričanju ve ru jočih so gore kraj, kjer smo bližje Bogu. Po memb nost gora v du hov nem smi slu se je ob držala vse do da našnjih dni. Med naj sta rejše gor sko ro ma nje in hkra ti naj sta rejši ohra njen za pis o pri sto pu na goro, je vzpon ple miča Bo ni fa cia Ro ta ria D’Asti 1. sep tem bra 1358 na vrh gore Roc cia me lo ne (3538 m) nad me stom Susa v Ita li ji. Na goro je pri ne sel težak me de - ni nast trip tih s po do bo De vi ce Ma ri je kot znak zah va le, da je preživel turško suženjs tvo. K po do bi ver ni ki ro ma jo še da nes. Sploh je De vi ca Ma ri ja zaščit ni ca šte vil nih krščan skih sve tišč v go rah (sli ka 1). Nje - ne kipe ali po do be so po sta vi li na vr ho vih La Meije in Ai guil le du Dru v Fran ci ji, Dom in Mat ter horn v Švici (En gel 1950) in ne na zad nje je na Kre da ri ci ka pe li co (sli ka 2) pos večeno Ma ri ji Snežni po sta vil tudi Ja kob Al jaž leta 1896 (Mikša 2015, 121).

Sli ka 1: Ka pe li ca Ma ri je Snežne na Ve li ki pla ni ni v Kam niško-Sa vinj skih Al pah (1560 m). V ozad ju Ojstri ca (2350 m). Glej an gleški del pris pev ka.

Sli ka 2: Ka pe li ca Ma ri je Snežne in Tri glav ski dom na Kre da ri ci (2515 m) ob začetku 20. sto let ja (zgoraj) in da nes (spo daj). Glej an gleški del pris pev ka.

123 Pe ter Mikša, Ma ti ja Zorn Začetki ra zi sko va nja slo ven skih Alp

V sta rejši zgo do vi ni obi sko va nja gora ver jet no ne ob sta ja od mev nejša zgod ba, kot je ti sta o Ha ni - ba lo vem prečka nju Alp leta 218 pred Kri stu som iz da našnje Fran ci je na Ape nin ski po lo tok. Pri tem in pri ne ka te rih ka sne je za be ležena prečen jih, na pri mer zim sko prečka nje Mont Ce ni sa (Fran ci ja) ce sar- ja He nri ka IV., ki je leta 1076 po to val k pa pežu Gre gor ju IX., ali ro ma nje an gleškega me ni ha Joh na de Bremb la, ki je prečkal Saint Ber nard med da našnji ma Švico in Ita li jo na poti v Rim leta 1178, vzpon ni bil po ve zan z občudo va njem ali ra zi sko va njem gor ske ga sve ta (Mikša in Aj lec 2015, 11). Prav tako tudi ne ver jet no naj sta rejše za be leženo prečka nje (» Ötzi ja «) pred prib ližno 5300 leti v Ötztal skih Al pah, ki naj bi bilo po eni iz med raz lag po ve za no s tr go va njem (Le Blanc in Re gi ster 2003, 4; The Ice man 2016). Obi sko va nje gora za ra di nuje je ver jet no sta ro to li ko, kot je sta ro člo veštvo, os ta li vzgi bi pa so ve - li ko mlajši. »Čast« pr ve ga za be ležene ga vzpo na iz re krea ci je ozi ro ma »… želje, da bi do se gel po memb no višino …« (Kugy 1976, 23) in ne iz nuje, pri pa da sred nje veškemu pe sni ku Fran ces cu Pe trar ki, ki se je leta 1336 sku paj z bra tom in dve ma služab ni ko ma povz pel na 1912 me trov vi sok Mount Ven toux v Pro - van si. Ta vzpon ne ka te ri oz načuje jo za začetek pla nins tva, saj naj bi po me nil pre lom v od no su do gora. V času, ko so se nje go vi so dob ni ki izo gi ba li gora, je bil »… prvi, ki se je povz pel na goro za ra di nje same, da bi užival v raz gle du …« (Coa tes 1998, 65–66). Ven dar pa se je Pe trar ka kot piše Coa tes (1998, 65–66) na vrhu za to pil v iz po ve di Av guština, ki sva ri jo, naj ljud je ne za me nja jo stvars tva in stvar ni ka ter naj se ne pu sti jo za pe lja ti po kra ji ni. Za vo ljo tega se je svo je ga početja sra mo val. Znan je tudi vzpon Leo nar da da Vin ci ja, ki je leta 1511 os vo jil goro Bo ( 2556 m) v bližini Mon te Rose. Da Vin ci ome nja še pri stop na vrh Tre Sig no ri v gor ski sku pi ni Mon te del la Diz gra zia, a let ni ca vzpo na ni zna na kot tudi ne do sežena višina (Stro jin 1978, 88).

2 »Od kri va nje« vzpe te ga sve ta

V času raz svet ljens tva v 17. in 18. sto let ju so izo braženci začeli »od kri va ti« gor ski svet. Pred tem je za ni ma nje za gore dožive lo manjši raz cvet v času hu ma niz ma in re ne san se (Mikša in Aj lec 2015, 12). Sta rejša li te ra tu ra gle de od no sa evrop skih in te lek tual cev do oko lja ozi ro ma od no sa družbe do gora v sred njem in zgod njem no vem veku na va ja toge mej ni ke (Zwit ter 2014, 619). So gore sre di dru ge ga ti- sočlet ja že bile lju dem pri jaz nejše ali še ved no le »… grde bra da vi ce, ki so ka zi le svet kul tur ne rav ni ce …« (Ba ta gelj 2009, 76 ). V no vem veku je na ra va še ved no ve lja la za lepo in pri jet no le tam, kjer je bila »… udo - mačena in za ri sa na s šes ti lom in rav ni lom …« ( Ba ta gelj 2009, 76 ). Zwit ter (2014, 619) piše, da so ne ka te ri skušali do ka za ti »… pre lom nost [v od nos evrop skih izo bražen cev do okolja ozi ro ma družbe do gora, opom- ba av tor jev] hu ma niz ma 14. in 15. sto let ja, dru gi so pre lom ni co vi de li v večji stop nji ob vla do va nja na ra ve za ra di znans tve ne ga na pred ka v 17. sto let ju, spet tret ji pa v ro man ti ki poz ne ga 18. sto let ja, ki so jo in ter - pre ti rali kot reak ci jo na teh no loški na pre dek – ta naj bi vo dil k pre vred no te nju od no sa do oko lij, ki naj bi jih prej ime li za »div ja«, de ni mo Alpe. V re sni ci gre za dol go tra jen pro ces spre mi nja nja, ki v pro sto ru ni imel enot ne časov ne di na mi ke. Močno po zi tivno vred no te nje po kra ji ne srečamo že v 17. sto let ju in prej, med tem, še v poz nem 18. sto let ju pa so po go ste re li gioz no-ma gične raz la ge na rav nih po ja vov in pro ce sov. V sa mem pred stav lja nju na ra ve je si cer med 17. in 19. sto let jem prišlo do izra zi te se ku lariza ci je …«. Pri začet kih opi so va nja Alp ve lja ome ni ti Jo han na Ja ko ba Scheuch zer ja (1672–1733), ki je pre - ho dil in z ba ro me trom iz me ril več švi car skih gora ter svo je iz sled ke opi sal v delu Iti ne ra al pi na (1723) in Jo sia sa Sim ler ja (1530–1576), ki je leta 1574 ob ja vil delo De Al pi bus com men ta rius (Sim ler 1984). Delo ve lja za prvo mo no gra fi jo o Al pah in obrav na va nji hov na sta nek in geo lo gi jo, ime, po ložaj, delitev, rast lins tvo in živals tvo. Za nas je za ni mi vo, ker v tri naj stem po glav ju ome nja Ju lij ske in Kar nij ske Alpe, raz la ga na sta nek ime na, našteva reke, vse bu je pa tudi zem lje vid Kranj ske (sli ka 3; Stro jin 2009, 23).

Sli ka 3: Zem lje vid Kranj ske v delu Jo sia sa Sim ler ja De Al pi bus com men ta rius iz leta 1574. Na njem Kar nij ske Alpe oz načuje jo pre dalp ski svet za hod ne Slo ve ni je. Glej an gleški del pris pev ka.

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3 Slo ven ske Alpe v »praz go do vi ni« obi sko va nja gora

Ar heo loške ra zi ska ve kažejo, da je pri sot nost člo ve ka v slo ven skih Al pah že zelo dol ga. Že pred več de set ti soč leti so se lov ci in na bi ral ci za te ka li v jame vzpe te ga sve ta, na pri mer Po točko zi jal ko (1675 m; sli ka 4) na Olševi, v Med ve do vo jamo (1500 m) na Mo kri ci ali jamo Div je babe v Idrij sko-Cer kljanskem hri bov ju (450 m). V času bro na ste dobe se z najd ba mi orožja pr vič zgo sti jo do ka zi o obi skih slo ven - ske ga vi so ko gor ja. Po jav lja se puščanje po sa mez nih ko sov orožja, kar je ver jet no po ve za no z da ro va nji bo go vom (Cevc 2006, 6–7). Ver jet no so tudi že dav no pred sred njim ve kom pri sto pi li na šte vil ne vrhove. V sred njem veku ima jo v Al pah za ra di trgovine vse večji po men pre la zi. Poti prek ka ra vanških pre - la zov so bile go to vo zna ne že v praz go do vi ni, rim ske najd be pa do ka zu je jo upo ra bo Lju be lja v an ti ki. Pre laz Lju belj (1370 m) se po go sto ome nja v vi rih iz 13. sto let ja, »… ko je mo ral biti promet že pre cej in ten zi ven …« (Kosi 1998, 253–254). Vzpo red na in ena ko vred na je bila v sred njem veku ce sta prek Je - zer ske ga vrha (1218 m), pot prek Ko ren ske ga sed la (1073 m) pa je ste kla šele po ko lo ni za ci ji Zgor nje sav ske do li ne v 13. in 14. sto let ju (Kosi 1998, 254, 257). Prav tako an tična po ve za va je bila prek Pre de la v Ju - lij skih Al pah (Kosi 1998, 245). Po to va nja so bila po ve za na s šte vil ni mi ne var nost mi od na rav nih ujm do na pa dov do mačinov. Za ra di po moči ro mar jem, tr gov cem in po pot ni kom so na pre la zih ali ob po - teh na nje na sta li šte vil ni »hos pi ci« ozi ro ma za ve tišča, ka sne je so se iz njih raz vi la go stišča s pre nočišči. Eden iz med ta kih hos pi cev je bila »Jen ko va ka sar na« na poti z Zgor nje ga Je zer ske ga pro ti Je zer ske mu vrhu (sli ka 5; Janša Zorn 2000).

Slika 4: Po tička zi jal ka je po memb no jam sko naj dišče iz začetka mlajšega pa leo li ti ka. Glej an gleški del pris pev ka.

Sli ka 5: Jen ko va ka sar na na Zgor njem Je zer skem je bila po stav lje na v 15. sto let ju za pre nočeva nje tr gov cev . Glej an gleški del pris pev ka.

4 Prvi ra zi sko val ci slo ven ske ga gor ske ga sve ta

Med ra zi sko val ci slo ven skih po kra jin v 17. sto let ju iz sto pa kranj ski ple mič Ja nez Vaj kard Val va - sor (1641–1693). V delu Čast in sla va voj vo di ne Kranj ske (1689) je opi sal in sploh pr vič za pi sal prve zna ne pri sto pe na nižje ležeče slo ven ske vzpe ti ne. Ime na vzpe tin, do lin in rek se si cer po jav lja jo že prej, na pri mer kot mej ni ki gos po stev v raz ličnih do ku men tih, na pri mer da ril nih li sti nah (Mikša 2013, 392). »… V dru gi po lo vi ci 17. sto let ja je bilo za učen ja ke, ki so se uk var ja li z na ra vo, značilno pre ple ta nje na sta ja jočega na ra vo slov ja, na ra vo slov ne fi lo zo fi je in re li gioz no-ma gičnih raz lag, kar ve lja tudi za Sla - vo; vseh vse bin, ki jih Val va sor ni ra zu mel, ni oz načil za čudeže, za ve dal se je, da mar sičesa na rav ne ga ne ra zu me …« (Zwit ter 2014, 619). Val va sor večjega za ni ma nja obi sku in ra zi sko va nju gora ni pos večal, opi sal jih je zgolj na splošno – v dru gi knji gi je po glav je »O go rah na Go renj skem« (Val va sor 2009, knji - ga II, 141). Vzpe ti svet je ome njen tudi pri našte va nju in obrav na va nju pre la zov ter cest. Vzpe te ga sve ta se do ti ka še pri po glav ju o na rav nih zna me ni to stih. V po glav ju »O na rav nih red ko stih dežele Kranj - ske« ome nja gori Crain-berg in Ker ma. Prva se na ha ja pri Kranj ski Gori (Val va sor 2009, knji ga II, 141, knji ga IV, 558). Iz opi sa o » luk nji sko zi goro «, sko zi ka te ro se lah ko pri de iz Go renj ske v Bo vec je verjetno mi slil na Pri soj nik in nje go vo Okno. Ker teh kra jev ni ob ho dil sam, je lah ko Okno za me njal tudi s sosed - njim Vršičem (1611 m), pre ko ka terega je vo di la pra sta ra pro met na pot iz Zgornjesavske do li ne na Bovško. Pri opi su dru ge pa na va ja, da leži med Moj stra no in Bov cem, na pod la gi česar lah ko dom ne va mo, da je imel v mi slih Tri glav sko po gor je. V po glav ju »O ne na vad nih last no stih gore Krma« piše: »… Do sti bolj čudno pa je to-le: Če kdo opold ne na tej gori poka z bičem, sle di ne po sred no in ta koj ne vih ta z gro- mom in točo, čeprav je dan še tako ja sen. Naj se to zdi pa met ne mu bral cu še tako ne na vad no in ne ver jet no, to le niso zgolj go vo ri ce, tem več je pre ver je no. In bra lec ne sme mi sli ti, da to po tr ju je jo samo iz ja ve lju di,

125 Pe ter Mikša, Ma ti ja Zorn Začetki ra zi sko va nja slo ven skih Alp ki v oko li ci živi jo. To sta na mreč v zad njih le tih sama oseb no vi de la gos pod Jo hann Bap ti sta Pa ter mann in gos pod Lau ren tius von Rech berg, oba dok tor ja me di ci ne. « (Val va sor 2009, knji ga IV, 562). Prek Val - va sor ja tako iz ve mo za dva nje go va pred hod ni ka, ki sta že v 17. sto let ju ho di la v oko li ci Tri gla va. Žal je to tudi vse, kar pri Val va sor ju iz ve mo o nju nem vzpo nu na goro Ker mo in o nji ju. Z ime nom pred - sta vi in na krat ko opiše tudi Je lo vi co, Storžič in Grin to vec ter nji ho vo lego (Kugy 1973). Na pod la gi Val va sor je vih opomb in skic je na sta la gra fična oprem lje nost nje go ve knji ge, ki jo tvo ri jo zem lje vi di, pa no ra me (po glav je 5) in ris be po sa mez nih kra jev ter po slo pij. V 18. sto letju »obi sko val ce« slo ven skih gora že lah ko raz de li mo v štiri sku pi ne: (tuji) izo braženci (po glav je 4.1), do mače plems tvo (po glav je 4.2), slo ven ska du hovščina (po glav je 4.3) in do mači gor ski vod ni ki (po glav je 4.4).

4.1 Tuji izo braženci Slo ven ske Alpe so v 18. sto let ju po sta le za ni mi ve za po sa mez ne na ra vo slov ce, zla sti za ra di rast lin- ske ga in žival ske ga bo gas tva ter geo loških po seb no sti. Med tu ji mi izo braženci, ki so službo va li na Kranj skem ve lja ome ni ti Južnega Ti rol ca Gio van ni An to - nia Sco po li ja (1723–1788), zdrav ni ka v Idri ji, ki se je za ni mal za bo ta ni ko, kar je bil nje gov glav ni mo tiv za obi sko va nje gora. Po sta vil je te me lje na ra vo slov ne mu preučeva nju Kranj ske. Preučeval je kranj sko rast lins tvo in živals tvo. Med le to ma 1755 in 1766 je pre po to val ve lik del dežele in leta 1758 prvi do ku- men ti ra no sto pil na Storžič (2132 m) ter leta 1759 na Grin to vec (2558 m). V le tih 1761 in 1762 je ob ho dil bo hinj sko-tol min ske gore in se povz pel na južno vznožje Tri gla va nad Ve lim po ljem (Bu fon 1967, 256–258). Sco po li je vo delo je v Idri jo pri pe lja lo Bal ta zar ja Hac que ta (1739/40–1815), po rodu iz Bretanije. Za - pi sal je: »… od ločil sem se za Kranj sko za ra di na ra vo slov ja in do bro zna ne ga rud ni ka žive ga sre bra; po leg tega je tam živel slav ni Sco po li …« (Lu naz zi 2010, 88). Po leg os vo ji tve Tri gla va, je Hac quet preho dil še Čaven, Do li no Tri glav skih je zer, Go lak, Gor jan ce, Go te ni co, Ja vor nik, Krim, Lju belj, Mo krc, Na nos, Po - re zen, Snežnik in Učko. Pre ho dil je ce lot no hri bov je, ki ob kroža Ljub ljan sko kot li no, in se po dal od Vrh ni ke čez Pol ho graj sko hri bovje v Po ljan sko do li no, Kro po, Kam no Go ri co, Ra dov lji co in na Bled. Na pi sal je ob sežno delo Orik to gra fi ja Kranj ske (Oryc to grap hia Car nio li ca oder physi ka lisc he Besc hrei bung des Her- zogt hums Krain, Is trien und zum Theil der be nach bar ten Länder ), ki je v štirih de lih iz ha ja lo od leta 1778 do 1789. V času pri pra ve je leta 1777 kot prvi po skušal do ku men ti ra no do seči vrh Tri gla va (2864 m) in s tem na ka zal ter po tr dil glav no »ob se de nost« ra zi sko val cev slo ven skih Alp v 18. in 19. sto let ju – os vo - ji ti naj višjo goro. Us pel mu je vzpon prek pla ni ne Konjščice in Ve le ga po lja na Mali Tri glav (2725 m), pot pa je do bi la ime »bo hinj ski pri stop«. O vzpo nu je po ročal (pre vod po Kugy ju 1973, 44–47): »… Plezal sem po ska lah navz gor. Spočetka ni sem kaki dve uri na le tel na nobeno večjo ovi ro v za je di ska lov ja, ker je ležalo ve li ko dro bir ja in sne ga. Ko pa sem to imel za se boj, sem spoz nal, da so moji ljud je go vo ri li resnico, ko so tr di li, da jih je le malo prišlo gor ali pa no be den, vsaj nihče od rast li no slov cev ne, za kaj našel sem rast - li ne, ki jih ni bil opa zil niti Sco po li niti kdo drug in jih bom ob pri ložno sti opi sal. Kar za de va vr ste kam nin, sem ugo to vil ap ne nec in želez na to gli no […] Na sled nje ga dne sem ho tel s svo ji mi sprem lje val ci na skočiti goro še iz dru ge stra ni, a vreme tega ni do puščalo. Za do vo ljil sem se to rej s preučeva njem gor skih se sta vin. Ven dar upam, da bom dru gi krat prišel na njo, ko bom do bil De Lu cov ba ro me ter, da bom iz me ril višino. «. Po spod le te lem Hac que to vem po sku su os vo ji tve Tri gla va je ba ron Žiga Zois (po glav je 4.2), ki je fi - nančno pod pi ral Hac que to vo os va ja nje vr hov, pred vsem za ra di svo je ga za ni ma nja za geo lo gi jo in še po se bej za mi ne ra le, pa tudi zato, ker je bil last nik fužinar skih obra tov v Bo hi nju, v spod bu do za čim - prejšnji pri stop na vrh raz pisal na gra do. Vrh je bil os vo jen leto dni ka sne je, 26. av gu sta 1778 (Mikša in Aj lec 2015, 15). Sco po li ju in Hac que tu gre do za slu ge za »od krit je« Vzhod nih Alp širši re gi ji (Mikša in Aj lec 2015, 13). Na Kranj skem in Ko roškem je de lo val tudi na ra vo slo vec franz Xa ver von Wul fen (1728–1805), šved sko-madžar ske ga rodu, ki se je za ni mal za bo ta ni ko in mi ne ra lo gi jo. Tudi on se je povz pel na več gora (na pri mer Storžič, Grin to vec, Man gart, Tri glav) (Pet kovšek 1986, 725).

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Med tuje ra zi sko val ce sodi Lo vrenz Wil lo mit zer (1747?–1801), ogrske ga rodu, Hac que tov učenec in ra no cel nik na Kranj skem, ki je bil med pr vo pri stop ni ki na Tri glav. Av gu sta leta 1779 je bil (po Zoisovem) na lo gu zno va na Tri gla vu, ko je sprem ljal Hac que ta, ki je ta krat Tri gla vu iz me ril višino (Mun da 1986, 698–699). He nrik fre yer (1802–1866), ki je bil češkega rodu, je bil ro jen v Idri ji. Kot le kar nar je službo val v Idri ji, Za gre bu, Grad cu in Ljub lja ni, nato pa je prev zel me sto ku sto sa dežel ne ga mu ze ja v Ljub lja ni. Po njem se ime nu je več žival skih fo si lov (Zorn 2005, 227). Fre yer se je leta 1837 povz pel na vrh Tri - gla va in to po poti iz do li ne Krme, kar je prvi zna ni vzpon na Tri glav s te smeri. Hkra ti je bil to prvi vzpon, ki je bil oprav ljen brez vod ni ka (Pin tar 1926, 189).

4.2 Do mače plems tvo Po leg našte tih izobražen cev je med prve ra zi sko val ce slo ven skih gora mo goče šteti tudi pred stav - ni ke kranj ske ga plems tva, ki so se prav tako za ni ma li za na ra vo slov je in iz na ra vo slov nih vzgi bov od kri va li gore. Med nje v prvi vr sti sodi ba ron Žiga Zois, po leg nje ga pa še njegov brat Ka rel Zois, grof Franc Jožef Ha ni bal Ho chen wart in grof Ri hard Ur si ni Bla gaj (1786–1858), po ka te rih se ime nu je jo ne ka te ri mi - ne ra li (na pri mer zoi sit), rast li ne (na pri mer bla ga jev volčin – Daph ne bla ga ya na ) in živa li (na pri mer jam ski hrošč drob no vrat nik – Lep to di rus hoc hen war tii ). Med zgo raj našte ti mi je go to vo naj po memb nejši Žiga Zois (1747–1819), ki se za ra di bo lez ni vzpo - nov ni ude leževal, jih je pa spod bu jal in fi nančno pod pi ral (Va lenčič, Fa nin ger in Gspan-Prašelj 1991). Ko nec 18. sto let ja se je tudi vključil v raz pra vo o na stan ku kam nin. »… Pro ti kon cu osem naj ste ga sto - let ja je začela po sta ja ti geo lo gi ja mo der na zna nost. Dve teo ri ji sta si sta li ta krat nas pro ti gle de vprašanja, kako so na sta le kam ni ne …« (Fa nin ger 1994/1995, 562). Nep tu ni sti so tr di li, da so se kam ni ne use da - le v mor ju, nas prot no pa so jim vul ka ni sti pri pi so va li vul kan ski iz vor. Vnet pri pad nik sled nje je bil tudi Jo hann Ehre nreich Fich tel (1732–1795). Ta je na pod la gi Zoi so vih vzor cev kam nin iz pod Tri gla va v svo ji knji gi Mi ne ralo gisc he Aufsätze iz leta 1794 tr dil, da gra di Tri glav, Vršac in oko liške vr ho ve »praap ne- nec«, ki naj bi bil mag mat ske ga iz vo ra, to rej brez okam nin. Zois se s Ficht lo vo raz la go ni stri njal, saj je me nil, da gre pri tri glav skem ap nen cu za mor sko used li no. Da bi zbral do ka ze je av gu sta 1795 or - ga ni zi ral od pra vo, ki jo je vo dil Va len tin Vod nik, ude ležil pa se jo je tudi grof Hoc hen wart (Rus 1933, 101; Fa nin ger 1983, 6; 1994/1995, 562; Zorn 2005; 2015). Od pra vo je pot vo di la sko zi Do li no Tri glav skih je zer do Vršaca (2194 m; sli ka 6) in na prej do Tri gla va. Na poti kot tudi na sa mem Vršacu so našli okam - ni ne. Ob tem je Zois za pi sal (Rus 1933, 101): »… Ta sled (na vrh Vršaca naj de ne ga amo ni ta ; sli ka 7 ) mi je neiz mer no do bro došla, saj nam daje upa nje, da bodo v bodoče našli oka me ni ne tudi na naj višjih točkah in s tem pri ne sli ma te ma tično pra vi len do kaz, da so naše ap nenčeve hri bi ne ena ke sta ro sti in po re kla. …«. Kot plod vti sov z od pra ve naj bi na sta la Vod ni ko va pe sni tev »Vršac«. A če pu sti mo ob stra ni raz pra- ve o tem, ka te ro goro pe snik de jan sko ope va, ozi ro ma ali je Vod ni kov Vršac sploh v Do li ni Tri glav skih je zer (Orožen 1899), pa ne mo re mo mimo dru ge, »geo loške« ki ti ce v pe sni tvi: » Sklad na skla du se zdvi - gu je, go lih vr hov kam ni zid. Večni moj ster zau ka zu je: Prid’, zi dar se lès učit! «. Po Rusu (1933, 104) se Vod nik v pr vem stav ku do tak ne »… ve ličast ja geo loške zgrad be, ki jo je bil sam od kril na svo jem zna - me ni tem po ho du av gu sta 1795 …«, z re to ričnim po zi vom v dru gem stav ku pa »… apo stro fi ra pe snik zi dar ja-geolo ga J. E. Ficht la, naj opu sti svo je ka bi net no učen jaštvo in se pri de učit na lice me sta v pri - rodo …«. Čez me sec dni je v os te nje Tri gla va sle di la nova od pra va; pri družil se ji je tudi Vod nik. Na nje j so odkrili do volj fo si lov, s ka te ri mi so do ka za li, da je tudi ovršje Tri gla va iz ap nen ca mor ske ga iz vo ra (Rus 1933, 102).

Sli ka 6: Za sav ska koča na Pre ho dav cih (2071 m) in Vod ni kov Vršac (2194 m) z lepo vid ni mi plast mi ap nen ca (de sno). Glej an gleški del pris pev ka.

127 Pe ter Mikša, Ma ti ja Zorn Začetki ra zi sko va nja slo ven skih Alp

Sli ka 7: Na zgor njem kon cu Do li ne Tri glav skih je zer, v bližini Pre ho dav cev, naj de mo go mo lja sto plast na te rdeče ap nen ce zgor nje ga člena pre ho davške for ma ci je (Šmuc 2015, 34) z ve li ko fo si lov amo ni tov (izu mr la sku pi na mor skih živa li, gla vo nožcev s spi ra la sto za vi to hišico). Glej an gleški del pris pevka.

Kot bo ta nik je bil v dru gi po lo vi ci 18. sto let ja po mem ben Ka rel Zois (1756–1799) (Pra prot nik 1991, 827–828) po ka te rem se med dru gim ime nu je ta zoi so va zvončica ( Cam pa nu la zoy sii ; sli ka 8) in zoi - so va vi jo li ca ( Vio la zoy sii ). Rast li ne za svoj her ba rij je na bi ral po vr ho vih Ka ra vank, Kam niško-Sa vinj skih in Ju lij skih Alp. Nje go va pla nin sko-ra zi sko val na za puščina je tudi po sta vi tev pr vih vi so ko gor skih za - ve tišč. Eno je dal po sta vi ti pri Dvoj nem je ze ru ali pri Utah v Do li ni Tri glav skih je zer, dru go pa na Velem po lju. Za ve tišče je dom nev no imel tudi v zgor njem delu Do li ne Tri glav skih je zer (Er har tič 2012, 23). Za ve tišča naj bi zgra dil prav za ra di bo ta ničnih ra zi sko vanj, kar ome nja tudi Hoc hen wart, ki se je v za- ve tišču v Do li ni Tri glav skih je zer mu dil med razi sko val no od pra vo leta 1795. Ob po gle du iz » stap ze « (Štapc) na oko liške ste ne in me lišča je za pi sal (Hoc hen wart 1838, 52): » … Že ta raz gled si za služi, da pre po tu je mo Bo hinj … Ta po gled je tako po se ben in zdi se, da je v nas prot ju z … za ko ni težno sti, da če ga ne bi sam vi del, … bi imel to sli ko za v na ra vi ne mo gočo […]; v vseh krajn skih go rah ne mo re mo najti tako le pe ga in očar lji ve ga raz gle da …«. Za pi sal je tudi, da so lah ko v go sto ljub ni koči občudo va li de jav - nost ba ro na Kar la Zoi sa in šte vil ne primer ke rast lin. Koča je bila na re je na iz ma ce sno ve ga lesa, ime la je pro stor no ku hi njo, ki je hkra ti služila za spal ni co za gor jan ce in no sače. Ime la je je dil ni co, ka te re del je bil na me njen shra nje va nju živil in na bra nih rast lin, pro sto re za spa nje za goste in iz bra ne sprem lje - val ce ter dnev no sobo in spal ni co ba ro na Zoi sa (Hoc hen wart 1838, 52). franc Hoc hen wart (1771–1844) je bil sou sta no vi telj Kranj ske ga dežel ne ga mu ze ja ter eden pio - nirjev v os va ja nju slo ven skih gora (Mal 1928, 331). Na po bu do Žige Zoi sa se je leta 1793 sku paj z lov cem Spru kom, pr vim po ime nu zna nim vod ni kom v Kam niško-Sa vinj skih Al pah, povz pel na Pla nja vo (2392 m). Leto za tem se je povz pel na Man gart ( 2679 m) .

Sli ka 8: Zoi so va zvončica (Cam pa nu la zoy sii) (Dak skob ler 2015, 65). Glej angleški del pris pev ka.

4.3 Slo ven ska du hovščina Tret ja sku pi na lju di, ki so jih v ta krat nem ob dob ju za ni ma le gore, so bili slo ven ski du hov ni ki. Tudi njim je bilo vo di lo de lo ma na ra vo slov je, a je šlo pred vsem za ro man tično občudo va nje le pot gora. Iz Zoi so vega kro ga iz sto pa Va len tin Vod nik (1758–1819), ki je večkrat po to val v oko li co Tri glava, pr vič leta 1794, ta krat kot ka plan na Ko priv ni ku. Leta 1795 je, kot smo ome ni li, vo dil Zoi so vo od pra - vo v Tri glav sko po gor je (Kos in To po rišič 1986, 509–528). V spo min na od pra vo je spi sal odo Vršac, ki ve lja za eno naj lepših hval nic našega gor ske ga sve ta, Vod nik pa za začet ni ka slo ven ske pla nin ske poe - zi je (Orožen 1895a; 1895b). Za vo de nje od pra ve se je Zois Vod ni ku zah va lil, z gle dišča obi sko va nja gora pa je bolj pomemb no, da je ob tem za pi sal : »… Grof Hoc hen wart in abbe Pin hak sta prišla do mov kakor pi ja na od ve se lja …« (Lovšin 1944, 96), kar je pri nas ver jet no prvi opis vzne se ne ga ve se lja in ra zi gra - no sti za ra di gora. Po leg Va len ti na Vod ni ka lah ko v to sku pi no štejemo še bra ta Ja ko ba (1782–1836) in Iva na Dežmana (1782–1832), ka pla na v Sred nji vasi in Bo hinj ski Bi stri ci, ter Va len ti na Sta niča. Pred vsem Sta nič in Vod nik sta opi so va la svo je vzpo ne in o go rah pi sa la pe smi (Zorn 2005, 232). Bra ta Dežman sta se na Tri glav po da la 1. sep tem bra 1808, v prvem letu, ko sta na sto pi la svo jo prvo du hov niško službo pod Ju lij ci. Na vrh je prišel le Ja kob z vod ni kom, Ivan pa je ob stal pod vr hom. Ko so se sto pi li, je Ja kob na pi sal pi smo Va len ti nu Vod ni ku, v ka te rem mu je obširno po ročal o svo jih pla - nin skih doživetjih. Dežman v pi smu ni opi so val kakšnih stro kov nih ugo to vi tev, prav tako ni po skušal s pe sniškim je zi kom iz po ve da ti svo jih občut kov. Pi sal je v pre pro stem, pri po ved nem je zi ku, da bi pred -

128 Geografski vestnik 88-2, 2016 Reviews/Razgledi sta vil svoj vzpon in do god ke, ome nja pa tudi le po te na rav ne. Av gusta 1809 se je tudi Ivan Dežman povz - pel na Tri glav in v ste kle ni ci pu stil krat ko be se di lo, v ka te rem je, po leg sa moh va le svo ji ko rajži, za pi sal: »Sem bil tako ko rajžen, to pi sem ce naj na vrhu tu kaj os ta ne, ni kar ga ne vze mi, naj večje moje ve se lje je na gorah. « (Lovšin 1944, 99). Bra ta Dežman bi lah ko šteli za zgod nja, mor da celo za ena od pr vih obi- sko val cev gora na Kranj skem, ki sta v vi so ko gor je za ha ja la po vsem lju bi telj sko, zgolj iz last ne ga hre pe ne nja po na ra vi in pro stočas nih doživet jih, re kli bi pla ninsko-tu ri stično. Nju ni pred hod ni ki so po leg želje po na rav nih le po tah ime li tudi dru ge mo ti ve – ra zi sko val ne in gos po dar ske. Med po memb ne po sa mez ni ke v času vzpo na ra zi sko va nja slo ven skih Alp šte je mo Va len ti na Sta - niča (1774–1847), ki ve lja za pr ve ga slo venske ga al pi ni sta in ene ga od pio nir jev evrop ske ga al pi niz ma sploh (Kle mun 2000, 192–195). Vzpo ne je po go sto iz ko ri stil za ra zi sko va nje bo ta ni ke, geo lo gi je in mer - je nje nad mor skih višin. Naj več občudo va nja je požel nje gov vzpon na Ve li ki Klek/Großglock ner (3798 m) leta 1800, le dan za pr vim pri sto pom in isto leto prvi pri stop na dru go naj višjo goro Nem čije – Watz - mann (2713 m). Leta 1808 je bil na Tri gla vu, ki mu je tudi iz me ril višino. Povz pel se je še na Pre stre lje nik, Man gart, Krn, Ma ta jur in Ka nin. Čeprav so Sta niča naj prej v gore zva bi li ra zi sko val ni vzgi bi, je iz nje - go vih za pi sov slu ti ti, da so bolj in bolj pre vla do va li po vsem al pi ni stični vzgi bi – pre ple za ti čim več gora in kot prvi pri sto pi ti na še neos vo je ne vr ho ve, saj na bi de jal » Quis (mon tium) con tra me? « ozi ro ma »Ka te ra iz med gora mi more klju bo va ti! « (Oro žen 1907, 7) ter ob tem dožive ti na po re in ve se lje. Sta nič je za pi sal: » Ko maj se rešiš iz brez na po gu be, te prev za me ne po pi sna slast! «(Orožen 1907, 7).

4.4 Do mači gor ski vod ni ki V po seb no sku pino obi sko val cev slo ven skih gora je v obrav na va nem ob dob ju tre ba uvr sti ti do mače gor ske vod ni ke, brez ka te rih našteti izo braženci ne bi tve ga li ne var ne hoje v gore. Vzgi bi za nji ho ve vzpo ne v nas prot ju s prej našte ti mi niso bili na ra vo slov ni ali ro mantični, pač pa gos po dar ski (pašništvo, ru dar je nje, vod ništvo in lov). O ne kem za vest nem od kri va nju gora v tej sku pi ni ne mo re mo go vo ri ti. Kot naj bolj zna ne pred stav ni ke ome ni mo tri do mačine, ki so sku paj z ra no cel ni kom Wil lo mit zer jem 26. av gu sta 1778 kot prvi pri sto pi li na vrh Tri gla va – kmet in lo vec Šte fan Rožič, ru dar Ma tevž Kos ter kmet in ru dar Luka Ko rošec (Mikša in Aj lec 2015, 13). V prvi po lo vi ci 19. sto let ja se za ni ma nje za slo ven ske gore raz širi tudi na ne ka te re dru ge po klic ne sku pi ne, na pri mer geo de te, ofi cir je, tr gov ce z mi ne ra li. To je tudi že čas, ko lah ko go vo ri mo o obi sko - va nju in ne več ra zi sko va nju gora.

5 Slo ven ske gore na kar to graf skih in dru gih upo do bi tvah 17. in 18. sto let ja

Poz na va nje vzpe te ga sve ta se odraža tudi v nje go vih kar tograf skih upo do bi tvah. Vzpe ti svet je bil v 17. in 18 sto let ju upo dob ljen s senčeni mi kr ti na mi, ka te rih lega je ne na tančna, a kljub temu bral cu poda pro stor sko pred sta vo, kje se na ha ja jo vzpe ti ne. Pro ti kon cu 18. sto let ja kr ti ne za me nja jo »re liefne črtke« (Gašpe rič 2016, 75, 151). Zem lje vi di ve li kih me ril so lah ko služili kot pri po moček v mo re bit nih mej nih spo rih. Takšen je na pri mer načrt Ma ti je Ločni kar ja iz leta 1701, ki pri ka zu je do li no Spod nje Krme in Ra dov ne z do li no Kot v ozad ju (Rus 1926, 89). Po dro ben pre gled zem lje vi dov slo ven ske ga ozem lja od an ti ke do 20. sto let ja je na re dil Gašpe rič (2007), pre gled vzpe te ga sve ta na sta rih zem lje vi dih ozem lja Slo ve ni je pa sta naredila Gašpe rič in Zorn (2011). V 17. sto let ju iz po stav lja mo Ja ne za Vaj kar da Val va sor ja in nje go vo delo Čast in sla va voj vo di na Kranj ske (1689; 2009). Po leg po dat kov ne ga, znans tve ne ga in umet niš ke ga po me na vse bu je tudi ne kaj zem lje vi dov. Naj po memb nej ši je zem lje vid voj vo di ne Kranj ske (sli ka 9). Go rov ja so upo dob lje na z osen - če ni mi kr ti na mi, nji ho va lega je ne na tanč na, re la tiv no do bro pa je upo dob lje na reč na mre ža. Nje go va od li ka je pred vsem v tem, da slu ži bral cu kot po moč pri pro stor ski pred sta vi (Gašpe rič in Zorn 2011, 6).

129 Pe ter Mikša, Ma ti ja Zorn Začetki ra zi sko va nja slo ven skih Alp

Val va sor je vzpe ti svet upo do bil tudi na pa no ra mah ter ilu stra ci jah pri opisu po sa mez nih kra jev, kjer so upo dob lje ni gra do vi, sa mo sta ni in dru ga po memb nejša po slop ja. Z vi di ka upo do bi tve gora so po memb ne štiri pa no ra me – upo do bi tev gra du Auers perg (Tur jak; knji ga XI, 26–27), gra du Ehre nau (Aj ma nov grad pri Sve tem Duhu; knji ga XI, 128–129), sa mo sta na Möncken dorff (Me ki nje; knji ga XI, 368–369) in gra du Wa gens perg (Bo genšperk; knji ga XI, 620–621). Med os ta li mi ilu stra ci ja mi pa: Egg (Brdo; knji ga XI, 129), Gal len fels (Gol nik; knji ga XI, 166), Kal ten brunn (Stu de nec; knji ga XI, 295), Kat - zen stein (Ka men; knji ga XI, 299) in Li tey (Li ti ja; knji ga XI, 343). Tu so še ris be Blej ske ga je ze ra z gradom in oko li co ter z ozad jem pro ti Po klju ki (knji ga XI, 611), Bo hinj ske ga je ze ra z iz vi rom Savice (knji ga II, 159), do li ne Ko kre (knji ga II, 136; sli ka 10) ter Kam niš ke Bi stri ce (knji ga II, 153) (Lo žar 1936, 197, 199). Po drob ne je o upo do bi tvah na ših gora v 18. in 19. sto let ju pi še Lo žar (1936).

Sli ka 9: Ju lij ske Alpe na zem lje vi du Kranj ske Ja ne za Vaj kar da Val va sor ja iz leta 1689. Zem lje vid močno spo mi nja na prib ližno sto let sta rejši zem lje vid v knji gi Sim ler ja (sli ka 3). Glej an gleški del pris pev ka.

Sli ka 10: Do li na Ko kre na ba kro re zu Ja ne za Vaj kar da Val va sor ja iz leta 1689. Glej an gleški del pris pev ka.

V 18. sto let ju je kar to graf ska stro ka močno na pre do va la (Gašpe rič 2016), boljše pa je bilo tudi poz - na va nje oze melj. Vzro ke za to lah ko iščemo v po li tični, uprav ni ali vo jaški želji ozi ro ma nuji po na tančnih iz me rah in pri ka zih oze melj. To je čas izu mov raz ličnih pri po močkov za mer je nje in do ločanje lege ter težnje po izmenja vi znanj in poe no te nju mer skih si ste mov. Dru ga po lo vi ca sto let ja je tudi čas začet - kov trian gu la cij skih me tod za iz me ro po vršja, ki so močno po večale na tančnost zem lje vi dov (Gašpe rič in Zorn 2011, 7). V po ve za vi s pri ka zo va njem gora je tre ba v tem obdobju iz po sta vi ti zem lje vid Kranj ske Ja ne za Dizme flor jančiča (Gašpe rič 2007, 269) iz leta 1744 ( Du ca tus Car nio li ae Ta bu la Cho ro grap hi ca ozi ro ma Horo - graf ski zem lje vid voj vo di ne Kranj ske). Obri si vr hov in nji hov po ložaj je še ved no prib ližen, zato pa se je na njem »… pr vič po ja vi lo ime naše naj višje gore v slo venščini …« (Fridl in Šolar 2011, 214) ( Mons Ter glou Car nio li ae Al tis si mus ; sli ka 11), do da na pa mu je tudi višina. Tri glav je vi sok 1399 pa riških sežnjev. Flor jančič je pri me ri tvah upo ra bil as tro lab (Držaj 1980, 156), oprem ljen z na tančnim ko to me rom. To je na pra va, ki je v ti stih časih služila za do ločanje na vi dez ne lege Son ca, Lune, pla ne tov ter zvezd. Čeprav je iz mer je na višina na pačna, ima vsee no ve lik po men, saj pove, da je Tri glav že ta krat veljal za naj višjo goro na Kranj skem. »… Flor jančičev zem lje vid je tudi prvi zem lje vid našega ozem lja, iz ka te re ga je mo - goče bo lje raz bra ti raz gi ba nost po vršja .« (Fridl in Šolar 2011, 214).

Sli ka 11: Iz sek iz zem lje vi da Kranj ske Ja ne za Diz me Flor jančiča iz leta 1744, s pr vim poi me no va njem in višino Tri gla va. Glej an gleški del pris pev ka.

Slo ven ke Alpe je v dru gi po lo vi ci 18. sto let ju upo do bil tudi Bal ta zar Hac quet . V tret jem zvez ku Oriktogra fi je Kranj ske (1784) je ob ja vil zem lje vid Map pa Lit ho- Hydro grap hica Na tio nis Sla vi cae (Kam nin sko-vo do pi sni zem lje vid slo van skih na ro dov; sli ka 12), ki pri ka zu je ob močje med po rečjema Save in Dra ve. Gore so na zem lje vi du upo dob lje ne s senčen jem v ob li ki vzpe tin. Po rečji obeh rek in večji kra ji so vri sa ni pra vil no, po seb nost pa so oz načena rud na na ha ja lišča (Gašpe rič in Zorn 2011, 7). Hac quet je v pr vem zvez ku Orik to gra fi je Kranj ske ob ja vil prvo sli kov no upo do bi tev Tri gla va (bakro - rez). Upo do bi tev je si cer za va ja joča, saj de lo ma kaže zr cal no po do bo – Mali Tri glav je na levi na me sto na de sni (sli ka 13). Na upo do bi tvi je tudi ime Ve li ki Ter glau , ki naj bi bil po Hac que to vih me ri tvah vi - sok 1549 pa riških sežnjev ozi ro ma 3018,7 m (We ster 1954, 60.).

130 Geografski vestnik 88-2, 2016 Reviews/Razgledi

Do bre ga pol sto let ja ka sne je ima Tri glav na zem lje vi du Spe cial-Kar te des Her zogt hums Krain (Spe - cialni zem lje vid voj vo di ne Kranj ske), ki ga je med le to ma 1844 in 1846 iz de lal He nrik Fre yer, že sko raj pra vo višino – 9316 čev ljev ozi ro ma 2843,8 m (Le ban 1954, 135).

Sli ka 12: Slo ven ske Alpe v delu Bal ta zar ja Hac que ta Orik to gra fi ja Kranj ske (III. zve zek, 1784). Glej an gleški del pris pev ka.

Sli ka 13: Prva upo do bi tev Tri gla va v delu Bal ta zar ja Hac que ta Orik to gra fi ja Kranj ske (I. zve zek, 1778). Glej an gleški del pris pev ka.

V dru gi po lo vi ci 18. sto let ja (1784–1787) so bile slo ven ske Alpe upo dob lje ne tudi na jožefin skem vo jaškem zem lje vi du (prva habs burška vo jaška iz me ra). Iz de lan je bil v naj večjem me ri lu do te daj (1 :28.800). Da nes ve lja za naj ka ko vost nejši kar to graf ski iz de lek ti ste ga ob dob ja, ki pa je bil v ta krat nem času stro- go va ro va na skriv nost. Relief je pri ka zan s črt ka njem, na zor nost pa po večuje upo ra ba raz lični barv. Pri ka zi so re la tiv no na tančni za nižin ska ob močja, za gor ski svet pa so zelo ne na tančni (sli ka 14; Zorn 2007; Štu lar 2010; Gašpe rič in Zorn 2011).

Sli ka 14: »Ter glau« (Tri glav) in oko li ca na jožefin skem vo jaškem zem lje vi du (iz me ra No tra nja Av stri ja (1784–1787), Sek ci ja 134 (B1, C1); Rajšp in Serše 1998). Naj bolj iz sto pa na pis »Ker ma Ge birg« vzhod no od Tri gla va na gre be nu Rja vi ne (2532 m). Na zem lje vi du dru ge vo jaške iz me re iz 19. stolet ja je zem lje - pi sno ime »Ker ma« že v da našnji do li ni Krme.

6 Sklep

Prvi obi sko val ci slo ven skih gora so bili do mačini – pa stir ji, lov ci, is kal ci rude, ze liščarji. V gore so za ha ja li ano nim no – brez pi snih sle di in iz gos po dar skih vzgi bov. Do bro so poz nali bližnji gor ski svet ter v go rah dožive li ve li ko več, kot o tem sko po, če sploh, po ročajo viri. Viri o obi sko va nju gora postaja - jo po go stejši v širšem evrop skem pro sto ru v času hu ma niz ma in re ne san se, ko smo že priča pr vim opi som na lažje do stop ne vrhove. Pri nas lah ko prve do ku men ti ra ne pri sto pe sle di mo od 17. sto let ja. V tem ob dob ju je po mem ben vir pred vsem Val va sor je va Čast in sla va voj vo di ne Kranj ske, ki med dru gim poda prve opi se, ris be in tudi ime na ra zi sko val cev. Pri slo ven skih go rah je v ospred ju Tri glav (Rus 1926; 1929/30; 1933). Do kon ca 30. let 19. sto let ja, ko že lah ko go vo ri mo o obi sko va nju in ne več zgolj ra zi sko va nju slo ven skih Alp, je bilo na Tri gla vu za be leženih 21 vzpo nov (Mikša 2013, 401–402).

7 Viri in li te ra tu ra

Glej an gleški del pris pev ka.

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