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Historical Centre: Ko Ratanakosin & Thonburi Neighbourhood Top Five 1 Trying to stop your 2 Basking in the glow of 4 Enjoying sunset views jaw from dropping to the the Emerald Buddha at Wat of Wat Arun and cocktails floor upon encountering the Phra Kaew (p58). at A morosa (p70). enormous reclining Buddha 3 Getting lost in the 5 Learning about the ori- at Wato Ph (p61) for the weirdness of commerce that gins of Thai culture at the first time. is the A mulet Market (p66). Museum of Siam (p68).

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a 6666Th 666 6 r i n M a h a Th Charoen Krung R Khlong Mon at f# 1# PHAHURAT 6666f# 6664# 6 #â e# 0 400 m #Ú 5# 0 0.2 miles Wat Arun 666F or more detail of this area, see Map p252 A 57 Lonely Planet’s Explore: Ko Ratanakosin & Thonburi Top Tip Birthplace of Bangkok, the artificial island of Ko Ratana- Anyone standing outside kosin is where it all began more than 200 years ago. The of any of the big sights in remnants of this history – which today are Bangkok's big- Ko Ratanakosin who claims gest sights – draw just about every visitor to the city. The tthe sight is closed is either H big-hitters, Wat Phra Kaew & Grand Palace and Wat Pho, a gem tout or con artist; is are a short walk from the Chao Phraya Express boat piers ignore them and proceed t at Tha Chang and Tha Tien, and, although within walk- inside. orical ing distance of each other, the hot sun may make doing this a more demanding task than it appears. Túk-túks

(pronounced đúk đúk) are a dime a dozen around here. If Best Places C 5 en you're planning on doing our walking tour or visiting sev- to Eat t

eral sights, it's best to arrive early in the morning, both Ko re: ¨¨Pa Aew (p69) to avoid the crowds and to take advantage of the cooler Mangkud Cafe (p69) weather. Evening is best for photography, particularly if ¨¨ you're hoping for the classic sunset shot of Wat Arun. ¨¨Coconut Palm (p69) R

Located across the river, neighbouring Thonburi has ¨¨Khunkung (p69) a t significantly less to offer in terms of sights, but is great For reviews, see 69 A ana for those who fancy urban exploration. The cool morn- ing is a wise time to visit the area, which is accessible via k Thonburi & osin the 3B river-crossing ferries at Tha Chang and Tha Tien. 1 Best Temples Local Life ¨¨Wat Phra Kaew (p58) ¨¨Wat Pho (p61) ¨¨Local Life Ko Ratanakosin is probably Bangkok’s ¨¨Wat Arun (p63) most touristy neighbourhood, but hop on any of the 3B For reviews, see p64 A river-crossing ferries and you’ll be whisked across Mae  Nam Chao Phraya to Thonburi, where regular Thai life carries on uninterrupted. Best ¨¨Dance Floor Lak Meuang receives daily 1 supplications from Thai worshippers, some of whom Museums commission classical Thai dancers to perform lákon ¨¨Museum of Siam (p68) gâa bon (shrine dancing) as thanks for granted wishes. ¨¨National Museum (p65) ¨¨Life Aquatic Thonburi is home to several klorng ¨¨Songkran Niyomsane (canals, also spelt khlong) that once were responsible Forensic Medicine Museum for Bangkok’s former nickname, ‘Venice of the East’. & Parasite Museum (p65) ¨¨Traditional Healing Along Th Maha Rat are dozens For reviews, see 64 A of shophouses overflowing with family-run herbal- medicine and traditional-massage shops, and street vendors selling used books and, oddly enough, dentures.

Getting There & Away ¨¨River boat To Ko Ratanakosin: Tha Rajinee, Tha Tien and Tha Chang. To Thonburi: Tha Wang Lang (Siriraj), Thonburi Railway and Tha Saphan Phra Pin Klao. ¨¨BTS To Thonburi: Krung Thonburi and Wong Wian Yai. To Ko Ratanakosin: National Stadium or Phaya Thai. ¨¨Bus To Ko Ratanakosin: air-con 503, 508 and 511; ordinary 3, 25, 39, 47 and 53. To Thonburi: air-con 507 and 509; ordinary 21, 42 and 82.