Table of Contents 1 Battery...... 1 1.1 Replacing Battery (Correct method)...... 1 1.2 Replacing Battery (Alternate method)...... 1 1.3 Battery Spec...... 1 1.4 See also...... 1 2 D-Jetronic...... 2 2.1 Issues...... 2 2.2 See also...... 2 3 Headlights...... 3 3.1 Resilvering Headlights...... 3 3.2 Headlight alternatives...... 3 3.3 Turning Headlight Alternatives...... 3 4 Ignition...... 4 4.1 Correcting the Timing Curve of the ...... 4 4.2 Timing Curve of the Distributor...... 4 4.3 Distributor Rotor...... 4 4.4 Ignition Conversions...... 4 4.5 See also...... 6 5 Ignition Switch...... 7 5.1 Reducing the load on the switch...... 7 5.2 See also...... 7 6 Intermittent Wipers...... 8 6.1 See also...... 8 7 Lumenition...... 9 7.1 Background...... 9 7.2 Notes...... 9 7.3 Problem Areas...... 9 8 ...... 10 9 Original Equipment...... 11 9.1 Ducellier 6211 (Top)...... 11 9.2 Ducellier 6229 (Bottom)...... 11 10 Removing the Starter...... 12 10.1 2.7L...... 12 10.2 3.0L & EFI...... 12 11 Electrical Connections...... 13 12 See Also...... 14 13 Voltage Regulator...... 15 13.1 See also...... 15 14 Wiring Diagram...... 16

i 1 Battery 1.1 Replacing Battery (Correct method) For those that do not have an Owners Handbook, the battery comes out via a door in the Front wheelarch. If the correct size battery is fitted, this is not a difficult job. If an over large battery is fitted, it can be more troublesome. The first time you do it, raise the to high, fit the tyre changing prop, and remove the front wheel. Remove the battery door - you might want to take out each bolt, grease it & replace it before removing all together as preventitive maintenance. The correct battery comes out no problem. If you have an over-height battery, then you may have work on the cross brace that has to be loosened on the outboard end then unscrewed from the access panel. It is actually the fender brace so don't discard it in a fit of anger. Plan on using some penetrating fluid on all threads before starting the project. When you know what you are doing, and have the correct size battery, you can put the car on high, turn the steering all the way to the left, remove the ignition key, and the door and battery can be got at easily. Allow 20 mins. 1.2 Replacing Battery (Alternate method) Never take the battery out from the top. So many many people have destroyed their self levelling headlight control (which is no longer available and anyway cost about 20 times the cost of the battery) that the 'time saving' cost them dear. Don't do it. If you do some preventive maintenance by greasing the bolts on the battery door area, using the correct method is no great pain. 1.3 Battery Spec • Battery group 27 (see below) is specified. • Battery group 65 appears to fit as well. • Optima specifies group 25 or 34 ♦ But I (brucem) suspect that's just the nearest that they manufacture 1.4 See also • http://www.rtpnet.org/~teaa/bcigroup.html -- Battery group size charts • http://www.optimabatteries.com/ -- Optima batteries (gel cells)

1 2 D-Jetronic D-Jetronic was developed by Bosch as early as the sixties. Citroën had already been using it for the DS IE, and launched the SM IE with it in 1972 (1973 Model Year). The 'D' in D-Jetronic stands for "Drück" and it's a Speed-density system, meaning that no air flow meter is required. Instead a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor is used to measure load. Speed-Density systems are quite common even today. The ECU is competely analog and is a pretty sturdy unit. Injectors are low impedance, requiring ballast resistors in the ECU. The D-Jetronic system is good for what it is. The primary issue with the system is that it does not use a lambda sensor, and cannot compensate for wear on the engine and sensors. D-Jetronic uses seven sensors. Faults in either of these sensors will yield different running problems:

• Coolant temperature sensor • Air temperature sensor • Ignition trigger (located in the bottom of the distributor) • Manifold absolute pressure sensor (behind the hydraulic reservoir) • Full load sensor (on the firewall) • A opening rate sensor, controlling acceleration enrichment. A second sensor on the other bank is not connected to the injection system and solely controls the secondary butterfly opening and closing. The computer itself generally does not fail.

Cars after February 15 1973 were fitted with a new and safer two piece fuel rail. Earlier models were fitted with a four piece fuel rail. 2.1 Issues • NEVER start or run the car with the original Bosch 0 280 150 003 injectors. Replace immediately with 0 280 150 043. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED. The original injectors leak internally, and can lead to catastrophic fire. • NEVER run the car with the original external fabric sheath fuel pipe, however good it looks. Replace every piece if present with modern piping. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED. • The ECU may go lean when the engine is very hot. Check the cover bleed pipe is clear. • A larger/modern (see Alternator) makes the car run much better, even though the fuel computer can operate as low as 5V, as the car will be charging even at idle. • Check that the cooling fans have not dropped a magnet internally (e.g. both take the same current). This can be characterised by a sharp crack when they turn on. A failed magnet causes much more current draw, lowering the voltage avalable at idle. 2.2 See also • http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/ -- lots of pages about the D-Jetronic

2 3 Headlights

3.1 Resilvering Headlights • See http://www.stevesautorestorations.com/ in Oregon, USA. They resilver for approx. $150 USD per light. 3.1.1 Separating the lenses from the lights (To reduce the cost of resilvering which often charges a lot to separate the lenses)

• Selleys Kwik Strip (contains 870g/L DICHOLOROMETHANE, also known as methylene chloride) starts bubbling the glue within minutes. 3.2 Headlight alternatives US sealed beam connector matches P45T connector 3.3 Turning Headlight Alternatives Fluidic turning mechanism can be replaced by a cable system Marketplace:John_Titus#Turning_Headlight_Cable_Actuators

3 4 Ignition 4.1 Correcting the Timing Curve of the Distributor There is a seven page article by Jerry Hathaway titled "SM " that covers complete setup of the distributor, in the Winter 2002 issue of the Citroën Quarterly. This is Vol. 20 #1. See Citroën Quarterly 4.2 Timing Curve of the Distributor There are three curves: 2.7L, 3.0L, and IE..

Degrees Engine Degrees @ RPM @ Idle

2.7L 29 @ 2000 5-7

3.0L 26 @ 2000 5-7

IE 22 @ 2000 5-7

• The advance above is approximately when the free play in the stiff spring is used up, and both springs are in use above this speed. Hence, set the timing as above, then rev a little more and there should be little increase in advance even up to max rpm. • Wear on the stiff spring post is very common and leads to excessive advance if timing is set at idle. • Think carefully and bend the advance spring posts slightly as needed. • If the car is very original with all anti-pollution fitted, and the distributor has a timing point at idle stamped on it, then keep to the above table but also the markings on the distributor. • I.E. have two identical springs and do not suffer as above. However the vacuum retard capsule is often faulty. If still operating it can be adjusted by turning the hex bar inside. Idle is 1 deg ATDC with the vacuum connected, as above not connected. 4.3 Distributor Rotor • The rotor has resistors in carriers inside the rotor, with several pressure only contacts. The contacts can go high resistance and cause problems. Rumor has it that Ralph Cudworth used to suggest digging them out when they were bad and replacing with bits of nail.

• 4.4 Ignition Conversions 4.4.1 (Keeping it stock) • There is nothing inherently wrong with the stock system. Although the individual components are expensive (caps can cost upwards of $400, rotors $150, and points $150 each) they are of good quality manufacture. The design was superior in its day, similar to found on 12- Lamborghinis of similar vintage. It is essentially two concentric three cylinder distributors, each operating a single coil firing alternately. Because each coil fires only half as often, dwell time and coil saturation are improved over what was possible at the time with a single coil distributor. Because of the dual circuit design, however, the outer ring of the rotor has a not-insignificant surface speed relative to the coil contact. This can cause the outer contact to wear and as the contact pressure decreases, the outer contact can arc to the outer ring and damage it. The solution is to repair the cap by replacing the outer contact (salvaged from an air cooled VW Beetle cap) before damage to the rotor occurs. 4.4.2 Minor modifications • Drill a hole in the side of the distributor to allow dwell to be set while it is assembled 4.4.3 Lumenition • See Lumenition • Designed for the SM; reversible; stable 4.4.4 Buick • Full distributor replacement This modification utilizes a 1960's Buick Skylark V6 "Dauntless" 225 "odd fire" distributor. In addition, from 1966 until 1971, Jeep used the Buick 225 V6 as the optional engine in CJs. The centrifugal advance weights, located under the rotor, need to be modified. The Buick distributor shaft needs to be adapted for the SM distributor gear. The standard Buick Skylark Dauntless engine rotation is clockwise, so the centrifugal weights need to be reversed to open in the Citroen SM counter clockwise rotation. The distributor will be able to run utilizing standard Buick points or it can be converted to the Pertronix electronic ignition. The Pertronix part number is 1165, which is for the Jeep or Buick 225 odd-fire engine. See Buick/Pertronix 1165 below for more information.

4 Pertronix Conversion Kit for Buick Dist

4.4.5 Buick-Pertronix Delivers twice the voltage to the spark plugs, increasing horsepower, fuel economy, and life. 2:1 improvement over ?points? in current fall time for increased coil output. Rotating cobalt magnets trigger a Hall Effect integrated circuit . ...no points to burn, ...no moving parts to wear out. Epoxy molding makes our module impervious to dirt, oil, grease and moisture. Fits entirely inside the distributor. No "black box? to clutter the engine compartment. Stable timing ...no need for any adjustments. Will trigger most multi-spark CD ignitions. Use with Flame-Thrower® 40,000 volt coil for optimal performance. For over thirty years, the Ignitor has proven itself in applications ranging from race cars to tractors. The Ignitor replaces breaker point and troublesome factory electronic ignitions with a dependable, self contained and maintenance free electronic ignition system. The Ignitor has been called the "stealth" ignition because of its quick installation and nearly undetectable presence under your distributor cap. Above is a photograph of the Pertronix 1165, odd-fire electronic ignition kit. The kit consists of two parts, the cobalt magnetic ring on the left, and the igniter on the right. The notched cobalt magnetic ring is installed under the Buick centrifugal advance weight plate. The notched magnetic ring contains the cobalt magnets that are properly spaced for the Citroen SM odd-fired engine. Insure the notch in the ring is correctly placed, otherwise you will be 180 degrees out of sync. The Pertronix 1165 instructions show proper placement. Remove the stock odd-fire rotor screws, then the two studs on the magnetic ring will pass through the centrifugal weights plate to attach to the stock Buick odd-fire rotor with two included nuts. The correct igniter pickup gap is adjusted by placing spacing washers on the studs between the magnetic cobalt ring and centrifugal advance plate. The igniter is attached to the stock Buick odd-fire points location. Another point that needs mentioning is the requirement of a divide by two circuit for the SM tachometer. Without this circuit, the tach will read twice the RPM's, since the Buick odd fired distributor will be running on only one Pertronix Flame thrower coil, vs the stock SM dual coils.

John Titus now offers a drop-in kit to install the Pertronix 1165 into the SM Distributor. For more information, see marketplace:John Titus#Pertronix Ignition System

Titus Pertronix Conversion Kit Installed

4.4.6 Pertronix VW Using the Petronix ignitor for air-cooled VW engines provides the correct dwell for the SM ignition. http://ootfab.dynamic-dns.net:90/projects/SM/ignition_convert.cfm 4.4.7 123

5 • Complete distributor replacement. Dutch invention, see the 123ignition web site. The 123 distributor is newly produced. Even the cogwheel. The electronics inside replace the flyweights all together and middle the ignition moments between cylinders compared to the RPM the engine is doing. It uses cheap bosch rotor and cap. So no moving parts except for the central axle. It drives a standard single coil. It has an output for the rev counter and the D-Jetronic. But... Will no longer be produced due to overheating problems with the first revision. 4.4.8 Titus HEI Conversion • This is a single coil solution based on General Motors HEI components. The HEI pickup and reluctor from a late model Buick are matched with an early small body Buick distributor cap and rotor in a custom distributor housing. Also available in an EFI version that includes the trigger points for the D-Jetronic. For more information, see marketplace:John Titus

Titus MKII HEI distributor installed in 1973 SM Automatique

4.4.9 Van Rootselaar Van Rootselaar Technic used to make a single coil solution, based on standard Bosch components. It's unknown whether this system is still being manufactured. 4.5 See also • http://www.citroensmaustralia.com/maintenance/IgnitionSystem.htm

6 5 Ignition Switch 5.1 Reducing the load on the switch The design of wiring related to the ignition switch is a weak point for the SM. Specifically, starter solenoid activation current all passes through the ignition switch. As the switch wears out the resistance increases. Poor starting is one effect. Switch melt-down is also possible.

An extremely common modification is to fit a Ford solenoid or a starter relay. 5.1.1 Fitting a starter relay 1. It fits very neat if you just buy a DIN relay and matching socket. Fix the relay on the right oil canister holder's lower side (difficult to tell, but take a look-it's obvious). Or put the relay next to the voltage regulator, which is where the neutral interlock relay is located on cars with automatic transmission. Note: It is not necessary to do this modification if you have an automatic transmission since the neutral interlock relay already performs the function of taking the load off the ignition switch. 2. Find the cable which comes up from the starter and consists of two cables: A thick one, and a thin one that splits near to the right brake. 3. Open the cable there, and make the following connections: 1. Battery PLUS to the relay socket. 2. Ground to chassis -- take the point where the screw is screwed into the frame (the one which keeps the big water tube in its place) 3. Relay output -- (the switched battery PLUS) to the wire that goes down to the starter- it's a MALE connector. 4. Relay sense wire -- the one coming out of the original loom, it is a FEMALE one. 4. Test: relay should click when turning ignition, as the sense wire draws the relay, and PLUS is switched to the male connector which then gives this plus to the starter. 5.1.2 Ford Solenoid Commonly done, but is overkill, since the starter has its own solenoid.

5.1.3 Ford Voltage Regulator In order to reduce load on the ignition switch, fit a Ford voltage regulator, which has an internal field coil transistor so does not require power from the ignition switch (this is a common modification for the Citroen DS). 5.2 See also • http://www.citroensmaustralia.com/maintenance/StartCircuit.htm

7 6 Intermittent Wipers How do the intermittent wipers work? Why is there is no timer setting...

The control unit is in the steering column. The first "electronic" wiper to be used on a production car. (Citation needed) On the intermittent setting, it "reads" the resistance between the wiper blade and the windscreen and adjusts the interval accordingly. It does this by passing the motor current through a small spiral of magnetic resistance wire next to a magnet. When the screen is wet, there is a low load on the motor and so the wire does not heat up and the circuit is left intact (so the wipers continue working nonstop). When the screen becomes dryer, the load on the wiper motor increases, requiring more current through the circuit and thus heating the wire past its Curie point. The wire moves away from the magnet which breaks the circuit via an attached contact point and stops the wipers until the wire cools down, re-magnetises, moves against the magnet and starts the wiper again. The drier the windscreen, the higher the load on the motor, and thus the frequency of cut-out increases. 6.1 See also • http://www.citroensmaustralia.com/maintenance/WindscreenWiperControlCircuit.htm • http://www.citroensmaustralia.com/maintenance/WindscreenWiperService.htm • http://www.citroensmaustralia.com/maintenance/WindscreenWiperService2.htm

8 7 Lumenition

7.1 Background I initiated, paid for the development and had project control of the Lumenition system. It was done under contract for my original company, Hypertronics Ltd. Lumenition was the 'big survivour' in aftermarket electronic ignition kits in Europe, and supplies both racing professionals and NATO forces. The requirements were- Full contactless electronic ignition. No modification to car. Easy to install. These all remain true. Citroen had long since abandoned the early bakelite four paddle rotor, so the later 3 paddle modern plastic unit was standardised on. A kit was designed, and comes complete with all parts needed to install, including a chassis earth wire, as the wing on an SM is not always well earthed. -- (Transcribed from a Sport-Maserati-L post from) Andrew Brodie 7.2 Notes • If you have a working set of contact breakers properly set, with the timing perfect, the Lumenition unit will simply 'drop in' and the will be easily accurate enough to start and run the car, though of course it must be checked and reset precisely as soon as possible. It was designed this way deliberately.

• Thus, if you tune up your car correctly, you can fit the Lumenition, and place the original breakers, breaker wires and condensers in a bag with a small screwdriver in the boot(trunk) for instant reversion in the unlikely event of failure. The distributor should be well greased while installing, particularly on injection cars and those that are not used very regularly.

• The Lumenition is bench tested and synchronised to less than 1 degree at the . It provides a superior spark using the standard coil. The rev counter works correctly. Apart from a timing re-check at say 100 miles to confirm installation and a visual check at major services for standard distributor problems having developed and the lenses being reasonably clean (it is actually VERY resistant to dirty lenses) it is maintenance free.

• The Lumenition system will 'cover up' faults in the distributor such as incorrect centrifugal advance but to work properly it expects the distributor to be in full working order. This is not at all difficult to achieve if yours is worn, it is simple enough to repair in most cases.

• You can use the Lumenition system with coils that do not have an external resistor. They must be 'traditional' coils, not 'sports' coils. The point being that they must NOT be very low resistance. 'Sports' coils attempt a larger spark by requiring a higher contact breaker current and trade reduced contact life for bigger spark. The Lumenition has the reserve to switch standard coils but is not guaranteed safe on 'sports' items. They do sell a 'performance' upgrade if you feel it will be worth the price! 7.3 Problem Areas (All minor)

• Very very early distributors are shallower than all the rest, and to fit the Lumenition 'cassette' about 1/8" needs to be removed from the lower end of the cassette. This is done neatly by sawing it flat immediately below the lower locating peg, removing the angled peg shoulders.

• If I had come from a hot country I would have decided on a different installation position to the top of the LH wing. I therefore now recommend fitting further rearwards and lower closer to the LHM tank. A simple aluminum bracket/carrier can be made up to locate the modules. I originally reasoned that the wheel air turbulence would cool the units at all times when moving. But of course the real problem is in stationary traffic!

• Rarely the 3-wire plug/plug contacts cause difficulty by going open/high resistance. ♦ Prevent this by mating/demating them a couple of times then grease and mate. ♦ I tried to get Lumenition to replace the contacts with Gold ones but they never did, probably because any improvement would be marginal over the existing Rhodium.

• The Lumenition units do not switch below about 8V. You must therefore ensure that your wiring is clean and that the supply to the system is good. Poor wiring can lead to bad hot starting with the system.

• When switched on and off the Lumenition delivers a full spark, just as does a standard contact breaker system. This is ONLY a problem if you have other defects that inhibit imediate starting. ♦ Due to the much better spark this can lead to involuntary (!!) demounting of the injection manifolds on that one day of the year when the cold start injector puts just exactly the right amount of fuel on the 'surface evaporation' plate. ♦ (My Citroen DS23 IE used to do this TWICE a year on STANDARD breakers!!). ♦ both DS injection and SM injection are prone to this problem: ◊ the injection plenum or plenums are mounted, on one side, to the injection headers by rubber tubes. A small lip inside the tubes separates the tubes of the plenum from the injection header by 2 or 3 mm. ◊ the plenum is mounted, on its other side by rubber mount(s). ◊ the plenum is thus isolated electrically from the engine ◊ Spark plug leads in poor condition can leak current to the plenum. When the cold start injector operates, the plenum contains fuel vapour. If current leaks from the ignition to the plenum, a spark may jump internally from one plenum tube to the corresponding injection header.... ◊ Explosions in the plenum can be averted by attaching a wire (lighting flex gauge should be sufficient) from some point on the plenum to some point on the engine.

9 8 Starter

10 9 Original Equipment

OEM Starters (2.7L top, 3.0L bottom) There are two models: 9.1 Ducellier 6211 (Top) • Fitted to 2.7L engines • Mass: ~10 kilos 9.2 Ducellier 6229 (Bottom) • Fitted to 3.0 engines • Mass: ~15 kilos

11 10 Removing the Starter You must remove the lower part of the header on the right side of the engine to get at the starter. There just is no good way around this step. On EU cars, if the 5 bolts holding the top and bottom halves of the header together are not too rusty, this is not a terrible job. On USA cars, you will need to get at the 11mm A/F nuts on the exhaust clamp holding the lower half to the upper half. Use plenty of penetrating oil so you don't snap the bolts off. The special "football" head M7 bolts used on these clamps (identical to early DS and some later ID clamps) are unavailable. If you break one, the best solution is to use an M8 pan head screw and grind a flat in the side of the head. You will have to drill the clamp to 8mm (5/16). If possible get a stainless pan head screw to avoid this problem in the future. 10.1 2.7L You will need an Allen-head socket driver to remove this, but it can be done by snaking a 3/8" max extension past the starter. 10.2 3.0L & EFI The starter cannot be removed the same way. You'll need an open-ended wrench and will have to loosen it one flat at a time. It is not possible to use a flexible ratchet extension or ratcheting ring spanner because of the close proximity of the flange (see photo).

12 11 Electrical Connections Don't bother to try to get to them while the starter is in the car. Remove the starter first.

13 12 See Also • John Titus has a gear-reduction version that is smaller, lighter, and spins 20% faster than the OE starters.

14 13 Voltage Regulator The original regulator ...

• problems...? ♦ The metal cover can short out. Fit a fuse to the supply wire at the top of the regulator.

Incorrect charging may be the body of the regulator is not directly connected to the battery negative (O.E. is a yellow wire). High charging can be caused by a low voltage in the regulator supply wire. First check for bad contacts elsewhere.

There are a number of alternatives:

• Fit a Ford external regulator (e.g. 1982 Ford Mustang) "I,A,S,F" terminals of Ford Regulator go to wires "L, Bat, R and EXC" from Citroen Voltage Regulator. It is also possible to fit an aftermarket miniature Ford voltage regulator inside the OEM regulator can.

Miniature Ford Regulator inside OE housing

• You can also mount a modern alternator with internal regulator, such as a Delco CS-121 alternator from a Toyota/PontiacLeMans.

13.1 See also • http://www.candokaraoke.com/Regulator.pdf -- Citroen DS voltage regulator adapted to maintain BVH starter interlock.

15 14 Wiring Diagram The only diagram I'm aware of is from Manual 581-4a. Here is a stitched-together version. Brucem 06:15, 5 October 2009 (UTC)

Wiring Diagram

16