Exploring the Mississippi from the Twin Cities to the Quad Cities

September-October 2007 Best Backwater Eco-Tours

Restaurant Reviews

Walk to a Magical Bluff www.big-river.com AT C LLIIA BELLE BBO CRU UU E S AAM UI JJ W EE SSE E A TT S OO TH A S N IN

A Real Steam-Powered Paddlewheel!

The Julia Belle Swain Steamboat, all decked out in red, white and blue bunting, provides a sentimental journey on a real steamboat cruising the Mighty Missis- sippi. The picturesque Julia Belle offers back-to-yesteryear public tours, private charters, and special theme cruises on the portion of the Mississippi that Mark Twain called the prettiest. Escape from the hurried world and go back to a more genteel time.The sound of the calliope and the whistle blowing brings back a voice of America’s past. The dining salon and mahogany bar provide meal and beverage service in the gracious manner of a bygone era. Come aboard for a local cruise with great food or just a short refreshing sight- seeing trip. Day trips depart from La Crosse, Wis. to Winona, Minn.; Wabasha, Minn.; Lansing, Iowa; or Prairie du Chien, Wis. Don’t wait to explore the many possibilities on the beautiful Mississippi! Reservations are required. Call 800-815-1005. For schedules online: www.juliabelle.com Day trips Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Cruises Weddings Company Outings Reunions, etc.

Great River Steamboat Company, 227 Main Street, La Crosse, WI 54601 (608) 784-4882 Toll-free 1-800-815-1005 www.juliabelle.com September-October 2007 / Big River Magazine 

C o v e r i n g t h e U p p e r M i s s i s s i p p i s i n c e 1 9 9 3

September-October 2007

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FEATURES DEPARTMENTS 22 Remembering Prairie du Chien’s 5 From the Riverbank Fourth Ward Thank you to two good friends. A man remembers his childhood on St. Feriole By Reggie McLeod Island, in a neighborhood that no longer exists. By Jeff Lessard 7 River News Bridge collapses, casinos move, pelicans nest. 24 Turkey Vultures Like eagles and hawks, these soaring birds ride 21 Know Your River thermals over the river bluffs. Barge and recreational boat traffic is down. By Pamela Eyden By Reggie McLeod 28 Backwater Tours 60 Big River Places: Maiden Rock Small eco-tours can get you out to places you Walk out for an extraordinary view, but watch for can’t see from overlooks or bigger boats. snakes, drop-offs and poison ivy. By Pamela Eyden and Trudy Balcom By Reggie McLeod Treasures Along the River — 34 Fountain City Houses If you look around, you’ll find several intrigu- City Page Ads ing historic houses that reflect river history. 45 By Kate Halverson Discover the delights of Upper Mississippi communities. Grilling Up Good Times at the 39 Advertiser Index Trempealeau Hotel 58 Where did I see that ad…? A favorite river restaurant has upscaled its menu. By Pamela Eyden 41 Bogus Creek Cafe You can dine alfresco on a tree-shaded patio in this Stockholm, Wis., restaurant. On the cover: Voyaging up Big Slough By Molly McGuire near Lansing, Iowa. (Eric Dykman) 42 Picnic in the Park in Guttenberg Pick up a lunch, kick back and head to Gutten- berg, Iowa’s, mile-long riverside park. By Becky Sisco Wild Rose Timberworks Wild Rose Timberworks

Traditional timber construction Traditional timber construction for homes, barns, and shelters. for homes, barns, and shelters.

Wild Rose Timberworks Wild Rose Timberworks Located in Decorah, Iowa Located in Decorah, Iowa (563) 382-8500 or (563) 382-6245 (563) 382-8500 or (563) 382-6245 www.wildrosetimberworks.com www.wildrosetimberworks.com

Wild Rose Timberworks Wild Rose Timberworks

• 40' - 50' Slip Rental Visit The NATIONAL EAGLE CENTER • Full Service Gas Dock • Marine/Gift Store Open Seven Days A Week • Mechanical Services 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Visit our new building and meet our eagles Harriet, Angel and Columbia Join us for our Grand Opening Celebration • Inside/Outside Winter September 29th Storage on Site • Protected Harbor bordered by Mississippi NATIONAL EAGLE CENTER Traditional& Sabula Lakes timber construction Traditional timber construction 50 Pembroke Street, Wabasha, MN 55981 • Rent our FLOATING COTTAGEfor homes, barns, and shelters. for homes, barns, and shelters. 651-565-4989 For more National Eagle Center information: ISLAND CITY HWildARBOR RoseSABULA ,Timberworks IOWA 563-687-2825 Wild Rose Timberworks www.nationaleaglecenter.org WWW.ISLANDCITYHARBORLocated in Decorah,.COM IowaM ILE 534.7 RBD Located in Decorah, Iowa (563) 382-8500 or (563) 382-6245 (563) 382-8500 or (563) 382-6245 www.wildrosetimberworks.com www.wildrosetimberworks.com

 Big River Magazine / September-October 2007 From the Riverbank

Thanking Two Good Friends of Big River

Reggie McLeod Editor/Publisher

e always enjoy getting com- River office to help us out every week. ever I got together with Tom or Rick, I pliments on Big River Mag- And he promised to bring donuts! brought a few questions, and I always Wazine, but we seldom take Rick was diagnosed with pancre- left their company feeling a little the time to explain that many people atic cancer last fall. He was 62 when smarter and more confident about our whose names do not appear in the he died on June 16. work on Big River. I know I thanked magazine have gone out of their way We wrote about Tom Kelley in them for their help. I doubt that I to help those of us who do get the the “River People” feature in Janu- thanked them enough. F credit. Two people who have been ary 2006, where we told about some very generous by sharing their ideas of his work in the Twin Cities to pro- and encouragement with me over the tect the river and ensure that people years have died since the last maga- could enjoy it. What we didn’t say is Big River™ zine went to press. that Tom is the second cousin of an Back when Big River was just a old friend of mine, and that he gave Big River Magazine (ISSN 1070-8340) is pub- lished six times a year by Open River Press with newsletter Rick Colvin wrote me a my friend and me the last of many assistance from Riverwise, Inc., 70 1/2 E. Fourth note saying that he enjoyed the pub- boats he owned, The Turtle, a clunky St., PO Box 204, Winona, MN 55987; (507) lication, and he offered to help in any old houseboat that you could attach 454-5949; fax: (507) 454-2133; email: [email protected]; way he could. He also mentioned that wheels to and tow, not that we ever website: www.big-river.com he was executive director of Mayo tried it. Part of the deal was that Reggie McLeod...... editor/publisher Medical Ventures, the spinoff of Tom could come down to Winona Molly McGuire...... managing editor Mayo Clinic that publishes the Mayo and use it whenever he wanted, but Pamela Eyden...... news/photo editor Health Newsletter as well as other poor health prevented him from ever periodicals and books. doing that. Contributing editors It didn’t take me long to see the Before he gave us the boat, he took Marc Hequet...... Twin Cities opportunity there, and since I took us out on the river in St. Paul a couple Becky Sisco...... Dubuque, Iowa Rick up on his generous offer, I have of times and showed us around. He Maureen J. Cooney...office/sales received a lot of good advice and and his companion, Kathy Stack, gave Kathy Delano...... sales/design encouragement. I also learned about me a lot of insight into recent river Jenni McCool...... bookkeeping/subscriptions some of Rick’s connections with the history and St. Paul politics. Tom Patricia McGuire...... bills & renewals assistant river: that after law school he became talked wistfully about some of his Subscriptions are $27 for one year, $49 for two an FBI agent based in New Orleans, favorite spots on the river — some of years or $4.95 per single issue. Send subscrip- tions, single-copy orders and change-of-address and the first guy he tried to arrest which are down here in my neighbor- requests to Big River, PO Box 204, Winona, MN jumped into the Mississippi to escape. hood — probably wondering whether 55987. He told me that when he and his he would ever visit them again. He Second-class postage paid at Winona, MN. wife, Irene, spent weekends in Waba- and Kathy often went out of their way POSTMASTER: send change-of-address sha, Minn., she would wake up from to make us feel that Big River was requests to Big River, PO Box 204, Winona, MN a sound sleep when a tow passed by, doing something important. 55987. so she could spot it and log it in her Tom, who was 81, died on July 19. Big River Magazine, Volume 15, Number 5, copyright September 2007. Reproduction in Little Tow-Watcher’s Guide. He told me I have never been very good at whole or in part without written permission of that after he retired at the beginning asking for advice, though I think I the publisher is prohibited. of this year, he would come to the Big have slowly gotten better at it. When-

Contacts (800) 303-8201. For information about stories, columns and River News, contact Reggie McLeod, Pamela Eyden or Molly McGuire ([email protected]). For information about placing an ad in Big River or for information about selling Big River Magazine contact Kathy Delano or Maureen J. Cooney ([email protected]). We must receive ads by Sept. 9 to get them into the November-December 2007 magazine.

September-October 2007 / Big River Magazine  Big River News

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September-October 2007 / Big River Magazine  proved it in 2000. dential development was abandoned Visit Winona, Minnesota Proponents of the Ecosystem Sus- in muddy disgrace when California tainability Program for the Upper developer Jim Daughtry ran afoul of Mississippi River System, formerly the Iowa Environmental Protection known as the Navigation Study of the Commission at a hearing in April. Upper Mississippi River and Illinois Daughtry and two of his contractors Waterway (Nav Study) are especially were called before the commission pleased, because this is the closest it because of serious stormwater runoff There’s always something new has come to passage. pollution violations in 2006. Muddy to discover in Winona. The initial price tag of $3.7 bil- runoff from the construction site had Upcoming Events lion would include the cost of seven polluted Sny Magill, a nearby state new 1,200-foot locks and $1.7 billion protected trout stream. The commis- September 8 Pickwick Mill Day September 14 Pavlo at SMU for habitat restoration. The economic sion makes recommendations on September 28-30 Boats & Bluegrass value of building new locks has been which pollution cases get referred to October 7 Polish Apple Fest debated since the early days of the the Iowa Attorney General’s office for October 8 American Queen docks study, but is supported by shipping the highest level of prosecution. October 10 MOMIX “Lunar Sea” at and agriculture interests. According to Tim Mason, a long- SMU In addition, this WRDA calls for time opponent of the project, the the Secretary of the Army to recom- commission was not impressed with FIND OUT MORE ABOUT MINNESOTA’S mend a framework for long-term wet- the developer’s lack of remorse and HISTORIC ISLAND CITY, AT lands protection, and conservation his bickering with the contractors at www.visitwinona.com and restoration in coastal Louisiana, the hearing. Mason and several other CALL 800.657.4972 or 507.452.0735 another very costly project. neighbors of the project had worked for a free Visitors Guide At least one critic has warned that to oppose it as the Concerned Citi- the 2007 WRDA is loaded with pork- zens of Clayton County. They even Journey Through Time.... barrel earmarks. Dr. Ronald D. Utt, in sued Clayton County in 2003 for At the Winona County a memo for the Heritage Foundation, offering the development tax incre- Historical Society which appears on its web site, warns ment financing. Although their suit that wealthy and influential coastal did not succeed in court, they delayed beachfront property owners have local government assistance for the lobbied successfully to get big dollar project. River Bluff then sued Con- beach replenishment projects added cerned Citizens for tortuous inter- as earmarks. He cites $101 million for ference, and Concerned Citizens beach replenishment at Ocean City, responded by filing suit against River Sea Isle City, and contiguous New Jer- Bluff for attempting to infringe on sey seashore resorts and $65 million their rights to free speech and to peti- for a Lido Key Beach, Florida, replen- tion the government. ishment project. “All we ever did was to show what Upcoming Events Sept. 14-15 Heritage Fair The House and Senate versions these guys are made of,” Mason said. Oct. 13-14 Woodlawn Cemetery of the bills were in conference com- State pollution violations were Walk mittee over the summer to reconcile only one problem the company faced differences between them. When the as the project unraveled. By early this Immerse yourself in the past in the region’s largest and finest historical museum. Enjoy conference committee completes its spring the development site had not award-winning exhibits. Research Winona’s work, the bill will head to President seen any significant activity for two colorful past in the museum’s library and Bush’s desk for final approval. 8 years. The company’s only employee archives. Visit the museum shop and the packed up and closed the office in “previously read” bookstore. River Bluff Over March. At the Clayton County Court- McGregor, Iowa — After seven long house, liens against River Bluff from www.winonahistory.org years, three lawsuits and plenty of unpaid contractors added up to 507.454.2723 bitter emotions, the River Bluff Resort nearly $1 million. Parcels of the River Open Monday - Friday 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Open Weekends noon - 4 p.m. project has quietly disappeared. The Bluff property appeared on the Clay- multi-million-dollar proposed indoor ton County delinquent tax rolls in waterpark and golf resort with addi- June. tional condominium and upscale resi- Daughtry claims he has a potential buyer for the property, but no sale has Visit www.big-river.com for links to yet occurred. Runoff from the prop- Visit Winona and the Winona County erty continues to be a problem after Historical Society are located at information about stories marked heavy rains. 160 Johnson St., Winona, MN 55987 with the mouse 8.

 Big River Magazine / September-October 2007 Eagles Landing is situated on the banks of the Mississippi River in the National Historic Business District of Downtown Wabasha. It features 27 richly-appointed condominiums ranging in sizes from 1,400-2,055 sq. ft. Each home offers spectacular sweeping views of the Mississippi River and the bluffs beyond. Designed with all the amenities expected by those who appreciate quality. Optional ownership of Private dock right outside your door. ONLY 7 RIVERFRONT HOMES STILL AVAILABLE!

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Why Bird-Song.com, Inc. advertises in Big River Magazine

“Big River Magazine is easy to read, with well researched articles on current topics. This is a publication that we love to read and sell at Bird- Song.Com, Inc. It should be on every- one’s reading list no matter what river you drift on. Big River Magazine is one of the Mississippi River’s best friends.” Mike Kennedy owner, Bird-Song.com, Inc. Bird-Song.com, Inc. 525 Junction St., Winona, MN 55987 (507) 454-6711 / (800) 820-8530

September-October 2007 / Big River Magazine  Belvedere Mansion 1008 Park Avenue Galena, Illinois 61036 Open to the public May thru October 2007 Sunday - Friday: 11 a.m. - 4 p.m. Saturday: 11 a.m. - 5 p.m. (815) 777-0747

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We are on Highway 61, 7 miles north of Winona, at mile marker 37. 1-800-501-4278 www.piccadillygallery.com

10 Big River Magazine / September-October 2007 Photo Contest Winner

Jenn Baechle took this photo while documenting the work of Chad Pregracke’s Living Lands and Waters, and helping with river cleanups in 2005. Her hometown is Belleville, Ill.

Send entries for the November-December contest to Big River Or send a print to Photo Editor, Big River, PO Box 204, Winona, by September 19. If we select your photo, we’ll send you three MN 55987. (We cannot return photographs, though.) free copies of the magazine. The contest is open to amateurs, Include your name, address, phone number and a short professionals, adults and kids. Email a digital JPEG (.jpg) photo file description of the photograph — who or what it is, when and — high-resolution photos only, please — to [email protected]. where it was taken, etc. F Write “PHOTO CONTEST” in the subject line.

ing on top of the houseboat, spot- the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service Eaglet Rescue ted some young eagles in the water (FWS). A team of FWS employees and McGregor, Iowa — On June 2, strong near the shore, clinging to sticks friends responded within a couple of winds blew down one of the 99 active from their fallen nest. The Teasers hours. bald eagle nests in the McGregor Dis- had been keeping an eye on that very The initial inspection of the eaglets trict of the Upper Mississippi River nest. They turned the boat around revealed that the two young birds National Wildlife and Fish Refuge and made another pass to get a better were about three months old and (North Iowa Times, 6-20-07). look. They could see an adult eagle lacked the fully developed feathers Jim and Karen Teaser of McGregor watching over the eaglets from a needed to protect them from the ele- were out in their houseboat with vis- perch across the river. ments. While the water helped cush- iting family members a few days later Karen Teaser used her cell phone ioned their 50-foot fall and allowed on June 5, when their grandkids, rid- to call the McGregor office of the them to escape injury, continued

September-October 2007 / Big River Magazine 11 exposure to the water and predators McGregor can act like giant funnels Hawks View endangered their survival. when heavy rains come. In Marquette Cottages & Lodges Despite their lack of expertise in the valley along Bloody Run Creek is Deluxe forest cottages high above nest building, the refuge crew built famous for devastating flash floods. the Mississippi, overlooking a new nest from two-by-fours, wire Floods in 1896, 1908 and 1916 sent tor- historic Fountain City, Wisconsin mesh, and available sticks and grass. rents of water down the valley that The new nest was located within feet killed people and wiped out rail- of the old nest tree but much lower. road tracks and bridges at the town’s “It was not pretty,” Seth Kettler, a extensive rail yards. According to his- seasonal maintenance worker, admit- torical newspaper reports, after the ted later, “but it worked.” water a flood of thousands of gawk- The Teasers hung around to watch ers descended on the town and paid the nest building. “They really had to be ferried out in boats on the still- some ingenious ideas on how to put it swollen creek to survey the damage. together,” Karen said. More recently, flash floods hit the When the nest was completed, area in 2004, when Marquette’s neigh- they carefully put the young eaglets bor, McGregor, was hard hit after a in it after gently drying them off. storm sewer channel through the city “It was just a tender thing to partially collapsed and overflowed watch. They even put a dead fish www.hawksview.net and an unfertilized egg back in the The Great River Road between [email protected] nest, just as it had been. It was like CALL US TOLL-FREE: watching National Geographic. It was Marquette and McGregor 1-866-293-0803 lovely, super,” Teaser said. was closed for most of the ALSO AVAILABLE, 2 AND Kettler reported that when he vis- 4-BEDROOM LODGES OVERLOOKING ited the nest the following day all following day, as front-end OUR SEVEN HAWKS VINEYARDS AND “appeared normal, both chicks were loaders worked to clear mud THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER VALLEY visible and erect in the new nest eight or more inches deep. bowl, with one adult next to the tree keeping a watchful eye on my pass- ing.” The Teasers also checked the sending deep water coursing down nest and noted that the adults had Main Street. added some nesting material to their It happened again this summer in new home. the early morning of July 18, when Over the years, the refuge staff has more than eight inches of rain fell on rebuilt several eagle nests, but it is the Marquette-McGregor area in five not a frequent occurrence. Having the hours. opportunity to save two young eagles In Marquette, residents of Feller’s is very satisfying, noted refuge man- Trailer Court lost homes and cars. ORGANICALLY GROWN ager Tim Yeager. “It’s one of those The trailer court is located across the things where you feel like you’ve street from a dike built to protect COFFEES accomplished something,” he said. the neighborhood from Bloody Run TEA ESPRESSO Neil Henkenius, who conducts Creek. As water poured down from SOUP • SALAD • SANDWICHES • PASTRIES eagle surveys in Pool 10, said that the bluffs it overwhelmed the storm Made from scratch using fresh, eagle nests weighing as much as 2,200 sewer with mud and debris, and organically grown, local pounds have been reported. “It’s a water began backing up against the ingredients, whenever possible wonder more nests don’t tumble from dike and eventually reached a height their nest trees. It’s like parking a of about six feet. Residents fled their 162 West 2nd Street small car in the top of a tree during a homes, some by boat. Winona, Minn. wind storm.” In McGregor, more than six inches 507-452-7020 Rivertown Flash Floods of water rolled down Main Street, fill- Hours: Tuesday - Friday ing basements and partially flood- 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Marquette, Iowa — Residents of river ing cars. The Great River Road Saturday towns like Marquette are familiar with between Marquette and McGregor 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. the flooding that comes when the Mis- was closed for most of the following Sunday sissippi overflows its banks, but some day, as front-end loaders worked to 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. floods don’t start on the river. clear mud eight or more inches deep, Closed Mondays The steep, rugged bluffs that sur- sprinkled with fallen trees and big round towns like Marquette and rocks.

12 Big River Magazine / September-October 2007 The storm hit Bagley, Wis., across the Minnehaha Creek shoreline to the “We don’t want people to be star- the river, even harder. Many vaca- public. Minnetonka has purchased ing at it while driving by and run tion homes were flooded by four or four homes to demolish to open up into a tree or something,” said Sarah more feet of muddy water. Water rose access to the creek and provide space Robb, one of the professional artists. behind a railroad dike along the river for a trail. It also plans to open up ad- The Centennial Bridge connects adjacent to the River of Lakes vaca- ditional space in the future for more downtown Rock Island with down- tion home resort, causing extensive canoe launches and trails. town Davenport, Iowa. Built in 1940, flooding there. Most of the flood vic- The creek runs 22 miles through it was the first four-lane bridge to tims do not have flood insurance. It several suburban communities. When span the river. The 1941, Art Mod- is not required in areas protected by it reaches Minneapolis it burbles erne-style Centennial Bridge Com- dikes. through a beautiful parkway and mission Building is a city landmark. then crashes over Minnehaha Falls Long Complicated Rescue and flows into the Mississippi. In the DQ to be Retired Upper St. Croix River — A man was suburbs, it rolls through private resi- Washington, D.C. — The Delta rescued off of the St. Croix river after dential property with a narrow public Queen paddlewheeler will be docked a 12-hour ordeal. easement along the banks only. forever after its 2008 season, because Martin Rike, 39, of Pine City, Minnetonka is the only suburb the U.S. Congress decided not to Minn., was tubing on the St. Croix purchasing private property along grant the ship another exemp- River with two friends on July 16, the creek to create more parkland. tion to the no-wood-superstructure when his tube went flat. The men Minnetonka residents approved a rule. Congress has granted the boat were in a remote area several miles $15 million referendum in 2001 to exemptions six times, but won’t grant above the Sota Rec landing where improve parks and open space. The a seventh. The current exemption is they planned to pull out. Rike and set to expire at the end of 2008. his companions began walking, when The Delta Queen Built in 1926, the Delta Queen has a Rike began experiencing chest pains paddlewheeler will be steel hull, but a wooden superstruc- and dialed 911 with his cell phone. ture. U.S. Coast Guard regulations (Minneapolis Star Tribune, 7-17-07) docked forever after its barring wood were enacted after Because of a poor signal, rescu- 2008 season. the ship was built. Majestic America ers from the Pine County, Minn., Lines, which owns and operates the Sheriff’s Department; Pine County city even has its own department of boat, is planning lots of special com- Fire Department; Grantsburg, Wis., natural resources. In early July, John memorative events and encouraging Fire Department; Wisconsin Depart- Gunyou, Minnetonka city manager, patrons to book now for the last voy- ment of Natural Resources; Burnett led a canoe tour of the creek for offi- ages on the Upper and Lower Missis- County, Wis., Sheriff’s Department; cials from the Minnehaha Creek sippi, the Ohio, Tennessee, Arkansas, and Minnesota State Patrol joined Watershed District and Three Rivers Black Warrior and Cumberland Riv- forces for the search. They did not Park District to enlist their support. ers, beside the Tennessee-Tombigbee find Rike until 9:30 p.m. At the creek’s headwaters, on Waterway. Then rescuers encountered another Gray’s Bay of Lake Minnetonka, the problem. Rike, who weighs about 500 clear water of a creek wetland even 3M Chemicals Spreading pounds, could not easily be moved to supports native wild rice. “In the Minneapolis — Results of a new safety in the low water. Efforts to take first couple of miles it’s a Boundary study sponsored by the 3M Company him out by boat ran aground. Rescu- Waters experience in the middle of show that chemicals it once manufac- ers tried a hovercraft, an amphibious the city,” Gunyou said. tured have contaminated an extensive vehicle and an ATV without success. area of soil and groundwater, and Finally, they strapped together Drive-By River History continue to seep into the Mississippi three rental canoes from a nearby Rock Island, Ill. — High school art- River near the company’s Cottage outfitter to get Rike out. More than ists led by four professional artists Grove, Minn., plant. 50 people participated in the rescue, spent the summer designing and pro- The chemicals were once used in at times lifting and carrying the man ducing a new river mural for the side such wonder-products as Teflon™ and the canoes over shallow, rocky of an old building. The Centennial and Scotchgard™. They do not break areas and sandbars. Rike was taken Bridge Commission Building current- down in the environment and move to Burnett Medical Center in Grants- ly has a mural depicting the bridge, quickly through water. The chemicals burg for treatment. but it’s falling apart — the mural, that have been found in drinking water is, not the bridge. The new mural is wells in several communities near Suburban Paddling designed to be modern, colorful and the company’s former dumps. Excep- Minnetonka, Minn. — The City of tell the story of the Upper Mississippi tionally high concentrations of one Minnetonka, an affluent suburb west River’s history in a way that’s easy chemical, PFOA (perfluorooctanoic of Minneapolis, plans to spend more for passing motorists to understand at acid), were found in groundwater than $2 million to open sections of a glance. near a dump site at the plant. Dump

September-October 2007 / Big River Magazine 13 14 Big River Magazine / September-October 2007 site samples registered 619 parts per boat trip with author Kenny Salwey. billion; the state’s recommended max- The second day features a a choice imum level in drinking water is 0.5 of seven field trips, that include bird- parts per billion. ing trips, a behind-the-scenes look at High levels of the chemicals have the University of Minnesota Raptor been found to cause birth defects Center and a guided tour of the Bell and cancers in lab animals, but 3M Museum. maintains they don’t threaten human For more information visit the health. Federal officials are still con- Audubon Minnesota website. 8 sidering the issue. The new study adds to the chal- Cerulean Trench lenge of cleaning up the sites, which McGregor, Iowa — Researchers from 3M will pay for. 3M will soon submit many organizations fan out into Up- a plan for cleanup. Decisions will be per Mississippi woods every spring made after a public comment period and summer to take inventories of this fall. birds that nest here. Sometimes they discover something surprising, as Bird Events did Iowa bird researcher Jon Strav- Wabasha, Minn. — The National ers, while conducting a bird survey Eagle Center will hold a gala grand for the Iowa Department of Natural opening of its new building in Wa- Resources last year. He discovered a basha, on Sept 29 and 30. The new high concentration of cerulean war- building, many years in the planning, blers in a remote wildlife area called has been open since May, providing North Cedar Creek. new digs with a view of the river for Cerulean warblers are migratory the center’s resident eagles, along songbirds with sky-blue plumage with more space for presentations and that are rarely seen for three reasons educational exhibits. —they prefer remote areas, they nest This year’s Midwest Birding Sym- high in mature trees and their num- posium, to be held Sept. 13 to 16 in bers are diminishing. the Quad Cities, will focus on bird- Ceruleans need large, undisturbed ing field trips throughout the area. tracts of mature forests near water- The last symposium held here was ways; fewer and fewer such habitats scheduled too late for participants remain. With plenty of mature trees to catch sight of the many migra- on steep slopes along the creek bed, tory birds that use the Mississippi the 1,800-acre North Cedar Creek River corridor as their seasonal fly- Unit meets the little birds’ needs. way to southern climes. Many of this North Cedar Creek is a tributary of year’s birding trips will be in river Sny Magill, a protected trout stream habitats. Plans for the event include that empties into the Mississippi an opening reception at the Putnam below McGregor. Museum, a dinner cruise and a clos- Checking 13 sites at North Cedar, ing banquet, besides lots of educa- Stravers and another researcher tional workshops and help for begin- found 8 to 15 ceruleans a day, lead- ning birders. For more information ing him to dub the area the “cerulean visit the symposium website or call trench.” the Quad Cities Convention & Visi- “This may be the biggest popula- tors Bureau. tion of ceruleans in Iowa,” Stravers “Anyone and everyone who cares said. “And it’s one of the most about birds” is invited to the Audu- remarkable areas I’ve been birding in. bon Upper Midwest Regional Con- It’s a deep canyon a mile long, and a ference, Oct. 12 to 14 in Blooming- long hike to get into it.” The area also ton, Minn. The first day will focus on provides habitat for northern parulas, the Mississippi River and features a Louisiana waterthrushes, Acadian flycatchers and scarlet tanagers. Visit www.big-river.com for links to The Department of Natural information about stories marked Resources is continuing to sponsor with the mouse 8. bird surveys. “Sny Magill is huge. We’ll be

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16 Big River Magazine / September-October 2007 working on bird surveys for several hours per year to run City Hall, two life Service’s preliminary report from years,” Stravers predicted. sewage treatment plants, a water its annual Waterfowl Breeding Popu- pumping station and a water treat- lation and Habitat Survey, 41 mil- Dollars for Bluffs ment plant. About 6.5 million kilo- lion ducks nested in over 1.3 million La Crosse, Wis. — Governor Doyle watts of that could be provided by the square miles of Canada and the Unit- announced in late June that the state city’s own hydropower plant. ed States, including Alaska this year, would fund the purchase of 452 acres In late July, the city council voted which is 14 percent more than in 2006 of land on the Mississippi River bluffs to acquire the 95-year-old Sears Pow- and 24 percent more than the average near La Crosse through a $257,000 erhouse plant and expand its capac- population from 1955 to 2006. grant to the Mississippi Valley Con- ity. The plant is on the north channel Wetland habitat conditions for servancy. The nonprofit land trust of the Rock River. Previous owners ducks and other waterfowl were the was founded in 1997 and operates in were Mitch and Melba White, owners same or slightly better than last year. seven Wisconsin counties. For the city of the White Hydropower Co., which Many species of ducks are more of La Crosse it acts as an intermediary sold power to MidAmerican Energy populous than last year, while at least in purchasing land and easements to Co. since 1985. two declined. Canvasbacks, mallards, implement the city’s Bluffland Protec- The city got the idea to buy the blue-winged teal, green-winged teal, tion Program. plant after the Whites inquired about gadwall, redheads and wigeons are Doyle stopped in La Crosse dur- getting help to improve it. (Quad-City doing better than they have on aver- ing a tour of the state, in which he Times, 7-23-07) age since 1955. announced grants totaling $15 mil- Scaups’ numbers are down 33 per- lion to protect 10,000 acres. Above the Falls cent from the long-term average and The largest grant was to fund Minneapolis — The first phase of a pintailed ducks are down 19 percent. purchase of 6,000 acres for the Brule “Master Plan for the Upper River in The Waterfowl Breeding Popula- River State Forest in the north. Minneapolis,” which was approved tion and Habitat Survey, done by sci- by the Minneapolis Park and Rec- entists from the U.S. Fish and Wild- Fish Ban reation Board and the City of Min- life Service and the Canadian Wild- In an attempt to slow the spread of neapolis in 2000, will be completed life Service, samples the continent’s two invasive fish species, the U.S. this year. Phase one reshapes the area most important nesting grounds. Fish and Wildlife Service (FWS) has above St. Anthony Falls along the Meanwhile, following its annual banned the import and interstate west bank of the river. May waterfowl survey, the Minnesota transport of silver carp and largescale An extended bike and pedestrian Department of Natural Resources silver carp. trail will replace informal footpaths came up with a different view of the Silver carp, which grow to three by the side of West River Road north duck population in its state, with total feet and 60 pounds, have moved up of Broadway St. That stretch of West duck populations down by about into the Mississippi, Illinois, Missouri River Road, a busy four-lane road six percent, although the number of and Ohio river watersheds, although divided by a median, will be recon- breeding mallards had increased 51 few have been caught north of central figured to two lanes with parking percent over last year. 8 Iowa on the Mississippi. These are the available only in some areas. Rain “flying carp” that jump into the air gardens, park benches and other Casino Moves when startled. amenities are also part of the plan. Quad Cities — In late July, Jumer’s Largescale silver carp have not yet The original plan was approved Casino Rock Island announced that been found in U.S. waters, but are seven years ago, but has been revised it will move off the river and build deemed a threat because they could several times. First, a private devel- a new spread at the intersection of easily hybridize with silver carp and oper bought and built townhouses Interstate 280 and Illinois Highway another invasive, the bighead carp. on about half the land that was envi- 92 in west Rock Island County. Al- According to a FWS press release sioned as a park. Then new residents though not on the riverfront anymore, (7-10-07), biologists fear the big invad- of the townhouses voiced concern the new casino intends to become ers will out-compete native species, about the noise and traffic that might a destination for travelers, with an such as paddlefish, bigmouth buf- be generated by another part of the events center, restaurants and more. falo, gizzard shad and native mussels, plan — a large amphitheater. Then, to According to Ron Wicks, president for food and habitat, with disastrous deal with stormwater runoff caused of Jumer’s, that was the rationale for results for river ecology and the Great by the townhouses, the city decided choosing what seems to be a remote Lakes fisheries, if they are able to get to build a large basin on public land location. around the electric fish barriers on near the river. “Generally speaking, casinos the Illinois River. The completion of phase one is located in suburban areas along inter- counted as a victory. state highways tend to do better than City Hydropower those located downtown,” said Wicks Rock Island, Ill. — The City of Rock Go, Ducks! (Quad-City Times, 7-24-07). Island needs 9.8 million kilowatt According to the U.S. Fish and Wild- The move affects more than gam-

September-October 2007 / Big River Magazine 17 :]ZhmIbWcaacb 6]fXgcZh\Y IddYfA]XkYgh kUhYfWc`cfgVm8UbU;UfXbYf hYlhVmBUbWmCjYfWchh )$kUhYfWc`cfdU]bh]b[g %&,dU[Yg '("-)\UfXWcjYf

you are invited to take part in the Upper Midwest Regional Audubon Conference in Bloomington, Minnesota on October 12-14, 2007. H\Y=ckU Open to all bird conservation enthusiasts, the conference BUhifY7U`YbXUf will offer four concurrent tracks - birds and wetlands, Vm>YUb7"Df]cf>UaYgGUbXfcW_ forests, and grasslands, and birds in your neighborhood. ]``ighfUhYXVm7`UiX]UAW;Y\YY October 12: “America’s Flyway: The Mississippi River” %&gWfUhW\VcUfXk]h\kUhYfWc`cf]``ighfUh]cbg with informative sessions on river habitat issues plus a %&dU[Yg gd]fU`VcibX sternwheeler boat ride with Kenny Salwey, renowned naturalist, river guide, and author of The Last River Rat. %)"-)fYWmW`YXdUdYf October 13-14: ‘Declining Birds, Declining Habitat: Reversing the Trend” includes keynote speakers Audubon President John Flicker, scholar Bridget Stutchbury, and =CK5 Minnesota state climatologist Mark Seeley.
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18 Big River Magazine / September-October 2007 blers, as the City of Rock Island is ing to the suit, he had intended to tes- likely to see a 50 percent increase in tify about the discrepancy between gaming tax revenue, from $4 mil- the MDA’s data and its claims that lion to $6 million per year. After the atrazine levels met water quality casino departs, the city will use the standards. vacated riverfront land in its joint The MPCA claims it terminated RiverVision project with Davenport, Wotzka’s employment for destroying Iowa. government data and diverting mail The RiverVision plan calls for a from his MDA office. coordinated waterfront redevelop- ment plan and brownfield recla- Brewing Wine mation. It won the two cities a first Dubuque, Iowa — Adding to the place award for Livability from the city’s riverfront attractions, the Star U.S. Conference of Mayors in June. Brewery Building, a large brick struc- The project was praised for being ture that has long been a landmark a cooperative, bi-city development — an empty one in recent years — re- partnership. opened in July when the Stone Cliff Meanwhile, Davenport is still Winery moved its wine-making op- working with the Isle of Capri Casi- erations and a tasting room here. nos on its proposal to move off the The Star Brewery was built in 1898 riverfront instead of building a $40- to brew Dubuque Star Beer. It closed million casino hotel on it. They are during Prohibition, re-opened and proposing that the Isle of Capri’s continued operations until the flood Rhythm City Casino move to the of 1965 damaged the building and city’s River Center. Critics point out equipment. A second owner mod- that the casino company has already ernized and produced Pickett’s Pre- www.buzzardbillys.com built a $175-million casino and hotel mium Beer on the site, and a third in Waterloo, Iowa, and a 12-story, $45- owner produced a Rhomberg Beer million Paradise Hotel Tower in Bet- there until 1985. The city of Dubuque tendorf, and may not be in earnest now owns the building and is leas- about promoting a casino in Daven- ing space to tenants who will comple- port’s city-owned convention center. ment other riverfront activities. Davenport is tossing around ideas Stone Cliff Winery owners Bob for what to do with the riverfront and Nan Smith have grown grapes after the casino leaves. One idea is and made wine a few miles north to expand LeClaire Park, creating an of Dubuque since 1988. They blend $11-million park with a pier extend- homegrown and California grapes in ing into the river, eagle viewing plat- their wine. forms, fountains, gardens, sculp- In early October, Matt and Sarah tures, an amphitheater and festival Kluesner, owners of a popular restau- grounds. (Quad-City Times 6-1-07) rant in Galena, Ill., will move in and open the Star Restaurant and Star Bar Atrazine Whistleblower on the second floor of the old brew- St. Paul — When he was asked to ery. Sarah Kluesner described the bar testify at the Minnesota State Legis- as an “ultra lounge with urban decor” lature about the dangers of the farm and “something Dubuque hasn’t pesticide atrazine, hydrologist Paul seen.” Wotzka agreed. He knew a lot about The old brewery site also includes atrazine in runoff and groundwater, a deck for river watching and an having tested water quality for the amphitheater for outdoor music Minnesota Department of Agriculture performances. (MDA) for 16 years, before taking a position at the Minnesota Pollution Where’s the Buzz Control Agency (MPCA) in 2006. Some Upper Mississippi-area resi- The MPCA denied permission for dents dreaded the day when Brood Wotzka to testify, then fired him two XIII of periodic cicadas would come months later. out of the ground. The cicadas known Wotzka filed a whistleblower law- suit in federal court in June. Accord- (River News continues on page 33)

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t appears that over the last few years, there’s a Iconnection between rising energy prices and falling river traffic. These graphs compare the numbers of barges and recreational boats lock- Corn flows into a barge at Winona. Minn. (Pamela Eyden) ing through Lock 11, in Dubuque, Iowa, last year and a decade earlier. As a result of government subsidies and rising oil Last year many marinas reported that they sold less prices, more corn is being turned into ethanol in the gas as prices rose. That appears to have reduced recre- Midwest, and less corn is being shipped downriver ational boat traffic. to New Orleans for export. The traditional November Note that in all four graphs, upstream traffic tends downriver rush of barges full of newly harvested corn to exceed downstream traffic early in the season, appears to be dropping off. and downstream traffic is higher later in the season. Note that the barge graphs count both full and Apparently some boating snowbirds head south with empty barges, rather than tows or lockages. A single the swans. Of course, barges shift south, because tows tow can include up to 15 barges. operate year round on the lower river. F Barge Traffic at Lock 11 in 1996 Recreational Boat Traffic at Lock 11 in 1996 1,800 1000

1,600 900

Upbound Upbound 1,400 800 Downbound Downbound 700 1,200 600 1,000 500 800 400 600 300 400 200

200 100

0 0 Jan. Feb. March April May June July Aug. Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec. Jan. Feb. March April May June July Aug. Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec.

Barge Traffic at Lock 11 in 2006 Recreational Boat Traffic at Lock 11 in 2006 1,800 1000

1,600 900

Upbound Upbound 1,400 800 Downbound Downbound 700 1,200 600 1,000 500 800 400 600 300 400 200

200 100

0 0 Jan. Feb. March April May June July Aug. Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec. Jan. Feb. March April May June July Aug. Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec.

September-October 2007 / Big River Magazine 21 Remembering Prairie du Chien’s Fourth Ward The river shaped life on St. Feriole Island By Jeff Lessard

he river twists and turns a farm pond. If you were too small from start to its finish, and in to drink coffee, it didn’t matter, the Tbetween its banks is an abun- fumes coming from the pot were dance of life. I was a part of this life enough to make you hyper like a rac- growing up. coon in a dew-covered garden. If you My father and his father worked were able to drink it, it made you the river. All my uncles on Dad’s more jittery than a man peeing on a side did, too. We lived on an island. electric fence. You were going to be The proper name is St. Feriole Island so wired for the day that if you were (Prairie du Chien, Wis.), but the peo- to try and nap it would take clothes ple living on it called it Fourth Ward. pins to keep your eyes shut. I remem- It was its own community. Most of ber when my uncle passed away in the people living there worked the the yard he lay peaceful and serene river. with his eyes open, and his broth- My grandpa’s brothers ran two ers debated if he was dead or had clamming companies side by side on fallen asleep after drinking Grandpa’s Jeff Lessard the river. Growing up I spent many coffee. hours at the Tennessee Shell Com- Now coffee wasn’t the only thing pany shoveling clamshells into an used a boat. It’s funny — I remember elevator, which in turn dumped them a lot of people looked down on us for into a semi trailer. At the Borden My grandfather passed away living there. Shell Company we filled gunny sacks in his yard the day he started In the 1970s we were moved from with 175 pounds of washboard clam- to move. I think he died from the island as a relocation project to shells or with 200 pounds of three- make life easier and to get us out of ridge clamshells. You had to lift the a broken heart. His livelihood the floodplain. For some that was a bags and stack them. was the river. good idea, for others it took their lives My grandparents on Dad’s side from them. My grandfather passed lived within a block of the banks as away in his yard the day he started to did a lot of my uncles. When clam- Grandpa made; he was famous for move. I think he died from a broken ming season wasn’t going, they set rabbit pie. Oh! It was good! Grandpa heart. His livelihood was the river. lines and we cleaned fish. Being made apple pies and sweet rolls and Several other neighbors became shells young and around river rats was bread, also good. He also raised a hog of their former selves after the move.* always interesting. All of them had to butcher on the riverbank. He fed Faced with condemnation, one stories as tall as the bridge that it clam meats. I remember it tasted might as well tie a person’s hands crossed the water to the exotic land great. behind his back and hold a gun to of Iowa. We spent a lot of time at my grand- him. One can live a good life when Grandpa’s morning started when parents. In the spring you would go they feel like it was their choice, but it was still dark. He would be mov- to the basement, and Grandpa was to have your home taken from you — ing around the kitchen like a mouse, working on set lines. In the fall you even though compensation is offered never making any noise. When you could smell the ginseng drying, and — is like death to many. For those heard the water come on, you knew after that it was furs being stretched. who truly love a life, money isn’t a that meant coffee, and not just any Always something. replacement. When it is a life where coffee — coffee boiled on the stove When there were floods, they you are mostly self reliant, then thick like motor oil. In the winter the would have to leave their homes money is less important. My parents coffee grounds floated like scum in sometimes, and other times they just chose to go gladly — Mom more hap-

22 Big River Magazine / September-October 2007 pily than my father, who grew up on KAAY from Little Rock, Ark., or WLS the river. Ultimately their choice was from Chicago, both AM stations we to do what was best for our family could only get at night. We would and moving was it. My choice, had I laugh and never really say much. In been old enough to choose for myself, the morning we would get up, and may have been different. the sleeping bags would be damp. It’s a funny thing that a lot of the You could smell the dew, and the same people who wanted us out fog would be so thick you couldn’t of there are the same people who see five feet. We would throw our are now trying to make the island sleeping bags over our shoulders. into something they think will ben- They weighed a lot wet. Our efit everybody. Some of their ideas pants would stick to our legs, are great, but I also see a side that I shoes were full of sand. We believe is wrong. It seems everyone made our way home, because wants a chunk of the island for their we were tired and needed own little project, but then there is no sleep for our next night of room for sharing that space, which sleeping out. is totally different than when people The island was like a big lived there. schoolyard, except that instead of Author’s father as a young man in the Fourth I remember playing block tag at a fence, it was surrounded by water. Ward. (Lessard family photograph) night and using the whole block — We did have several bridges lead- everyone’s yards. I remember being ing to town and one to Iowa, though called over to be told, “Now boys, I we never figured out why anyone have planted extra radishes for you to wanted to go there. We spent many hours sitting along the riverfront fish- We did have several bridges ing, and as we grew older, camping on the islands. It was a very good life, leading to town and one but it is mostly gone now. to Iowa, though we never The days of clamming are gone. figured out why anyone Most of the catfish are farm raised. I guess the river rat is kind of like wanted to go there. the cowboy, a vanishing breed. To me that’s a sad thing. These people were very colorful and loved liv- raid out of my garden, but please stay ing. Most of the time they lived on away from my cabbage.” It was funny, a shoestring. When they befriended Author’s uncles bagging clamshells. it seemed like certain gardens grew you, it was for life. The people liv- (Lessard family photograph) better cabbage or radishes or carrots ing along the river were a big family, than others. and if times were tough, they pulled We pretty much slept outside all together. summer in a big old field called the I could go on and on. I hope you “rodeo grounds.” At 3 a.m. we would enjoyed this little bit of life on the be eating radishes from Mary Valley’s river, because I sure enjoyed living garden and cabbage from Barney it. Every year the people who lived Moore’s. Barney had dogs, but they on this island have a picnic. I haven’t never barked until we were back safe attended for a while, but I think this in our tents. year I will. F 8 We would take the radishes to the Villa Louis pond. There was a little Jeff Lessard lives with his family in Woodman, Wis. stream from an artesian well run- ning into the big pond. We would *For a story about the history Author’s grandfather on his clam boat. (Lessard plug the flow with radish leaves, and of St. Feriole Island, see “Moving a family photograph) make our way back to camp and lay Neighborhood Out of Harm’s Way” on our sleeping bags eating radishes Big River, December 1997. Read it and cabbage listening to Barney’s online on the Big River website. dogs barking and Bamey yelling, “What the hell you barking at. There’s nothing there.” We would look at the stars and listen to Bleeker Street on

September-October 2007 / Big River Magazine 23 Turkey Vultures — Beautiful, from a Distance

Turkey vultures soar on thermals like eagles, but even from below you can see the distinctive two-toned wings and the bald red heads. (Allen B. Sheldon)

By Pamela Eyden

ig dark turkey vultures are Turkey vultures are the most com- They favor Louisiana, Florida and often seen soaring over the mon vulture in this hemisphere. They the Carolina lowlands during the Bbluffs and the river, where they range far and wide throughout North winter, but some may go as far as are sometimes mistaken for eagles. and South America, and breed from Venezuela. Birds that breed here in They soar beautifully, seeming to southern Canada all the way down to the Upper Mississippi River Valley wheel and glide with barely a twitch Tierra del Fuego. Volunteers at Hawk and Canada hop over the populations of their wings, which span six feet or Ridge count migrating vultures that live in the South. In the win- more. Sometimes they fly together in in their annual fall Hawk Count, ter they sometimes gather in great overlapping circles, as though each numbers, as eagles do. The largest had its own way of exploring the ris- “They aren’t aggressive roosting site ever recorded is at Lake ing thermals of hot air. Okeechobee, where 4,000 vultures You might also see them feeding birds, but they do have this were seen at one time. on dead animals at the side of the threat: ‘If you don’t leave me They return north early in the road, when they leap up in alarm at alone, I’ll barf.’...” spring, like raptors. Breeding pairs an approaching car. Their bald red arrive in southern Wisconsin from heads look like they’re covered with mid- to late March, when they imme- the blood of whatever they’ve been although they are not technically rap- diately begin flying over traditional eating. tors. In fact, “TVs,” as raptor coun- nest sites and performing aerial dis- No wonder naturalist Julie O’Con- ters refer to them, have been reclassi- plays. They stay in pairs all summer nor at Hawk Ridge in Duluth, Minn., fied into the same group as storks. In and raise their young. said, “We spend more time telling Duluth their peak migration period is Sometimes you see them flying people, ‘No, they’re not really gross!’ from mid-September to the first week low over trees and farmlands, scan- than anything else about them.” of October. ning for food. They have a very keen

24 Big River Magazine / September-October 2007 Turkey vultures are brown, but their neck and upper back feathers have iridescent blue, purple or green colors, too. Their heads are red or purplish with black bristles. Males and females have the same coloration. (Allen B. Sheldon)

sense of smell, so they can find food snails, grasshoppers, crickets and wrong with it, but under stress birds even when it is hidden below a dense mayflies that have washed onto shore. get dehydrated, so I tried to give it canopy of trees. In the wild, vultures But, because their claws and beaks fluids,” she said. She loaded a small never eat anything alive; they eat car- cannot tear open thick skin, turkey syringe with a slurry of veal baby rion — dead animals. Their genus vultures have to wait until their meal food, gatorade and water. “As soon name, Cathartes, means “purifier” is slightly putrid. This partly accounts in Latin, because they clean up the for the vulture’s reputation as a very Unlike most birds, the dead. (Black vultures, a more aggres- smelly bird. Another reason is that in sive species, actually kill animals, but hot weather, they cool off by peeing turkey vulture cannot call, they live south and west of here.) on their legs (called urohydrosis). sing or hoot, because it has If vultures see other vultures Karla Kinstler once had a close no syrinx. All it can do is around a carcass, they may join them, encounter with a vulture. She is direc- but generally they hunt by them- tor/naturalist of the Houston (Minn.) grunt or hiss. selves. Even around a carcass, they Nature Center, was a licensed fal- don’t eat together. Usually one bird coner and has a license to keep a great as I picked his head up and tilted it eats while the others stand around horned owl, Alice, as an educational back, it leaned forward and barfed.” and wait their turn. bird. She also finds help for injured The vomit smelled of old dead ani- They eat often, every day, although wild birds. When someone in nearby mals, partially digested. “The smell they can go for several days without Forestville State Park found a tur- was horrible. I tried Lysol, Pine-Sol food. Their diet is extensive: small key vulture in a ditch one December, and everything. The smell just got mammals (mice), big mammals (deer they brought it to Karla’s kitchen. She stronger and stronger.” and cows), chickens, wild birds, called the Raptor Center in St. Paul. The Raptor Center eventually snakes, turtles, fish, frogs, shrimp, “There was nothing obviously found that the bird had an old wing

September-October 2007 / Big River Magazine 25 Turkey vultures usually lay one or two eggs under protective bushes, or in crevices or caves in cliffs near the river. Sometimes they will choose old granaries, barns, or abandoned farmhouses. This nest was at an unused bunker at Fort McCoy, Wis. (Allen B. Sheldon)

fracture that prevented it from eagles, on the other hand, do not “V” migrating. their wings when they soar. Golden This bird doesn’t need more image eagles sometimes hold their wings in problems, but unlike most birds, the an upturned dihedral, but they never turkey vulture cannot call, sing or tilt from side to side. hoot, because it has no syrinx. All it Many longtime river valley resi- can do is grunt or hiss. dents agree that there are more tur- “They’re passive hissers,” Kinstler key vultures here now than 20 or 30 said. “They aren’t aggressive birds, years ago. but they do have this threat: ‘If you “Absolutely, there are more now!” don’t leave me alone, I’ll barf.’ They’re said Ric Zarwell of Lansing, Iowa, beautiful when they’re soaring, but longtime birder and a member of the up close… they’re just not what I’m Friends of Pool 9. “As a kid we never used to.” saw vultures. Of course, we didn’t see Vultures and eagles are gliders bald eagles or pelicans or cormorants, — they do not flap, they soar. You can either, in the 1950s and 60s. But now tell them apart because turkey vul- we do. A few weeks ago we saw 53 tures typically fly with their wings turkey vultures roosting on Mount set in a shallow dihedral, a wide open Hosmer one evening.” F 507.474.1430 “V,” and tilt back and forth. Bald

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September-October 2007 / Big River Magazine 27 Do lotuses smell good? A small boat gets people close enough to find out for themselves. (Pamela Eyden) Backwater Touring Getting Close to the River

By Pamela Eyden and Trudy Balcom quite as strong or confident as an nest all summer. It’s just five minutes ack Libby, owner of Mississippi adult,” Libby pointed out. “And that from the dock so he frequently brings Explorer Cruises, pointed the six- little bird is right on him every time tour passengers here to stop and talk Jpassenger jon boat upstream into the eagle takes off.” about eagles, river navigation and the Main Channel from the dock in Far from majestic, the young eagle safety rules. Lansing, Iowa, one July morning. looked oddly helpless, and we sym- Someone asks why they haven’t When we neared the top of an island heard of other backwater tours, espe- he cut the motor. As we floated and cially around the Twin Cities, farther swayed on the big river — a wonder- “I spent all my life learning north. ful sensation for people who rarely “It’s the refuge,” Libby said. “We leave the shore — he pointed out a and exploring the river. When wouldn’t be here if it weren’t for the bald eagle sitting high in a nest in I traveled and saw what [Upper Mississippi National Wildlife the top of a tree. It was an immature and Fish] refuge,” sweeping his arm eagle, Libby explained, its coloring others were doing, I wanted to to indicate the wild surroundings and very different from an adult’s. do that here,” Libby said. the 261-mile stretch of public, pro- The moment we all had our bin- tected land from Wabasha, Minn., to oculars focused on the big bird, it Rock Island, Ill. lunged out of the nest, pursued by a pathized with him. He’ll learn bet- As a boy, Libby, spent years small bird that picked at the feath- ter evasive maneuvers as he grows, exploring the labyrinthine backwa- ers on his back and bumped him in Libby said. Maybe the little bird is his ters above Lansing in small boats mid-air. teacher. before learning to pilot towboats “See the way he flies? He’s not Jack Libby has kept his eye on that and ocean-going ships. He got the

28 Big River Magazine / September-October 2007 Emerging from a backwater slough into the idea for his business, Missis- Main Channel brings a change of scenery sippi Explorer Cruises, while and wildlife. (Pamela Eyden) working a month-on, month- off schedule as a Mississippi All the Comforts River towboat pilot. During “We know what people like. They his months off, he traveled want to be outside, but they want to the world, and wherever he be protected from the elements, too. went he took boat tours — And they don’t like the weather to sailing up the Yangtse River ruin their trip,” Libby said. in China, pursuing manatees Most tours are just a few hours in Florida, whale-watching in long — just enough to give people a Iceland. taste of the backwaters. The jon boat “I spent all my life learn- trip out of Lansing took us up Big ing and exploring the river. Slough, which is narrow and tree- When I traveled and saw lined in some places, and opens up what others were doing, to marshes full of tall grass, pick- I wanted to do that here,” erel weed, arrowhead and lilies in Shallow-draft boats take people to parts of the river that look much like Libby said. it did before locks and dams were built. (Eric Dykman/Mississippi Explorer others. Our group was interested in His was probably the first Cruises) birds, flowers and wildlife, so Libby “eco-tourism” outfit on the steered the boat and the narrative in Upper River. those directions. He started his company “Unless there’s a special inter- five years ago with a 20- est, we try to cover the whole circle passenger pontoon boat — navigation, history, geology, flora based in Lansing. Now he and fauna, clamming, commercial hires four more pilots to fishing,” he said. take seven boats of vari- Some trips focus on history, or ous sizes on tours from four blooming lotuses and water lilies, towns — Lansing, Prairie fall foliage, bald eagles, and bird- du Chien, Wis.; Galena, Ill.; watching. One of the most popu- and Dubuque, Iowa (in con- lar is the November tundra swan- junction with the National watching tour in conjunction with Mississippi River Museum). Lansing’s Rivers and Bluffs Birding All except the jon boat Festival. In icy November, most Kids like the adventure of moving quietly through the backwaters, sport roofs, and one has an people wouldn’t set foot in any boat searching for wildlife. (Eric Dykman/Mississippi Explorer Cruises) encloseable, heatable cabin. to see any kind of bird. But his new,

September-October 2007 / Big River Magazine 29 Some passengers book special trips to go out and see the immense beds of American lotuses that bloom on the Upper Mississippi River Wildlife and Fish Refuge. (Eric Dykman/Mississippi Explorer Cruises)

Clyde and Judy Male of Upper Mississippi Adventures know where the wildlife is and guide visitors to see it in the complex backwaters near Cassville, Wis. (Trudy Balcom)

Eagles nest in tall trees near the river, but you’ll never get this close without your binoculars. (Eric Dykman/Mississippi Explorer Cruises)

Jack Libby of Mississippi Explorer Cruises has custom built several boats, including a “convertible” boat that can duck under bridges on Catfish Creek, on tours from the National River Museum in Dubuque. (Pamela Eyden) Mounds National Monument in early July were accompanied by sev- custom-designed 90-passenger boat Libby is a man with a lifetime eral guides— archeologist Ernie has high, wide windows, a heater and of knowledge and a great sense of Bozshardt, birder Jon Stravers, story- bathrooms. humor, but he also recruits experts to teller Duke Addicks, and Villa Louis “We even serve hot local apple help interpret the sights. curator Michael Douglas. cider,” he laughed. “We couldn’t do The 80 teachers who booked a “That was a nonstop, action- that without the bathrooms.” five-hour guided tour out of Effigy packed trip!” Libby said.

30 Big River Magazine / September-October 2007 Focus on Nature Downriver in Cassville, Wis., Clyde and Judy Male operate Upper Missis- sippi River Adventures. They moved here 23 years ago when Clyde’s career with the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Ser- vice brought him to the Upper Mis- sissippi National Wildlife and Fish Refuge. Clyde, a zoologist by train- ing, is assistant refuge manager of the McGregor District. Their tour boat, a Carolina skiff that seats six, has a canopy that offers protection from sun and showers. Their most popular tour is the one- hour Sunset Cruise. “Most people want to go out on the Sunset Cruise, but they’re most

“Most people want to go out on the Sunset Cruise, but they’re most interested in the Passengers keep an eye on the shore for muskrats, beavers, herons and even otters. (Eric Dykman/Mississippi wildlife. Sunset just happens,” Explorer Cruises) Judy noted. interested in the wildlife,” noted Judy. “Sunset just happens.” The river runs west to east at Cassville, so spectacu- lar sunsets come easily. The two-hour Ecological Tour offers more time to explore and learn. Part of what makes this tour interest- ing is learning about the interplay of wildlife and human activities on the river. As Clyde and Judy explained the working river, we passed a barge- fleeting area for a close-up look at the towboats at work. But wildlife was never far away, as we saw when we passed the Dairyland Power plant and looked for the peregrine falcons that nest there. Other tours include a Bald Eagle Tour, Beach Adventure, which takes passengers out to a sandy island beach with everything they need for the afternoon, including beach chairs and a picnic lunch, and the Night Drift, where they drift silently along with the river and listen for the pre- historic squawk of a great blue heron, the trilling of frogs or the slap of a beaver’s tail. “If you don’t hear the sounds, you Teens like a chance to get out of the classroom and onto the big river. (Eric Dykman/Mississippi Explorer Cruises) miss half of what’s out here,” Clyde said.

September-October 2007 / Big River Magazine 31 rest Gump’s box of chocolates — you never know what you’re going to get,” Libby said. Passion and Conservation Conservation is always part of the message. Libby steered to avoid a sandbar where he said he ran his father’s boat aground many times as a boy. He wondered aloud how it remains the same, despite so many other radical changes in the river’s topography. Many familiar areas that were once deep are now just two or three feet deep. Some of these changes are happening very rapidly. “When I started this business I used to take the 20-passenger pon- toon boat all the way up Big Slough, but I can’t do that anymore,” he said. “It’s too shallow now, and trees have fallen over.” Tour operators aren’t giving up their day jobs yet. One runs a camp- ground. Libby describes himself as semi-retired, but he occasion- Birders watch for green herons, prothonotary warblers, eastern kingbirds and more as they move slowly ally pilots towboats out of Gary, Ind. through the backwaters. (Pamela Eyden) On top of Clyde’s full-time job, the Males operate a bed-and-breakfast in a Cassville building they restored Simple Things “They get on the boat and sit themselves. In the company of an experienced down, and everyone’s rather reserved Operating a tour company is hard tour guide you might see muskrats, and introverted. Then we get going, work. It’s also a highly regulated and beavers, otters, minks, northern water and an eagle flies overhead, or they expensive proposition. snakes or enormous leaping fish see herons fishing in the shallows, “This isn’t a passive kind of busi- and tons of birds — raptors, wading ness. You can’t just advertise and run birds, geese, swans, pelicans or ducks, people around in a jon boat,” Libby depending on the season. Seeing bald eagles is said. Tour guides have to be flexible. the crowning grace for All captains have to be licensed by Clyde Male has a sharp eye, and if he the U.S. Coast Guard. All boats are sees something interesting, the boat most people, but kids are inspected every year, and the staff will be pointed towards it in a jiffy. fascinated by turtles and undergoes yearly and random drug The fact is, no one ever sees the same dragonflies... and alcohol testing. To run boats on river twice — that’s where the adven- the refuge, tour companies need per- ture comes in, that and the way peo- mits from the U.S. Fish and Wild- ple react to it. Judy recounted the day and they start to liven up. After a life Service. On top of that, there is they took passengers to see a musk- while they’re like different people. always boat maintenance, personnel rat house, and they spied a mink on They’re interested and talking to management, promotion and other shore carrying off a baby muskrat. each other. They’ve become part of routine business tasks. Suddenly the rest of the baby musk- nature.” “Despite the behind-the-scenes rats came bubbling up alongside the Seeing bald eagles is the crowning anxieties of this business, what makes boat, causing one of the passengers grace for most people, but kids are it all worth it is getting to introduce to wonder aloud if they planned to fascinated by turtles and dragonflies, people to this river,” Libby said. F jump aboard. and everyone is amazed by water Libby said he sees the river work a snakes and lotuses. Pamela Eyden is news and photo editor change over some passengers, espe- “That’s the fun part. There’s for Big River. Trudy Balcom is a writer cially in tours out of Galena, Ill., always something happening out who lives in Harper’s Ferry, Iowa. Her which draw international travelers there. On the refuge, every week last story for Big River was “Hoffa’s and tourists from Chicago. is like a new season. It’s like For- Eats and Sweets” (Sept.-Oct. 2005).

32 Big River Magazine / September-October 2007 (River News continued from page 19) as Brood XIII emerge in late May or early June every 17 years in southern Wisconsin, east-central Iowa, northern Illinois and northern Indiana. People didn’t want to listen to four to six weeks of deafening racket from the males’ mating call. What turned out to be a spotty emergence of the cicadas came as a relief to many folks. “The interesting thing is that some people in Grant, Iowa; Richland and Crawford counties (in southwest Wisconsin) reported lots of activity, whereas a half mile down the road there was nothing,” said Phil Pellit- teri, extension entomologist for the University of Wisconsin-Madison. He said most reports of cicadas came from the bluffs along the Mississippi, Pelicans raised chicks on a Pool 13 island this summer, perhaps for the first time ever. (Russell Engelke / U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service) Wisconsin and Rock rivers. According to the University of Illi- mers on the Upper Mississippi River, structure about 10 feet deep and 250 nois Extension Service, the popula- they have never been known to nest feet wide. In February 2004, huge tion was spotty in northwest Illinois here. Experts have speculated that the rocks broke loose from an area above as well. birds were either nonbreeding birds the excavation site. That project is on Iowa State University Entomologist or migrating. hold indefinitely, as the city consid- Donald Lewis said only 11 counties in The 50 to 75 pelican chicks were ers ways to stabilize the bluff, all of Iowa reported activity this year, com- found on an island where double- which would be expensive. pared to 22 counties in 1990. crested cormorants, great egrets and In March 2006, before receiv- He believes that commercial and great blue herons traditionally nest. ing a final design, the Dubuque City residential development caused much Pelicans, like these other birds, are Council gave Spiegel permission to of the decline. “Anything that dis- colonial nesters, gathering in groups build two 12-story condominiums rupts trees eliminates periodic cica- to raise their young. on Kelly’s Bluff. Spiegel has cleared das,” Lewis said. “They have limited One of the most exciting bird the site but waited to begin construc- ability to move very far, very fast.” sights on the river in the summer, tion until 60 of the planned 240 units After this summer’s emergence, pelicans fly in formation and swim sold. Unless there is an unexpected the cicadas mated and the females together, using teamwork to catch delay, building will begin this fall, laid eggs in the twigs of bushes or fish. according to project manager George trees. When the eggs hatched, the Murphy. nymphs burrowed underground, Kelly’s Bluff Controversy “We’ve got graves up there. where they will live a quiet life a few Dubuque, Iowa — Residents are Human remains from the 1800s were inches to a few feet underground for skeptical and concerned about the found on the site in June. We’ve got 17 years, surviving by sucking the current project of developer A. J. caves up there. And we have his- sap from the roots of mature trees, Spiegel. They wonder what it might toric neighborhoods up there,” said especially oaks. do to Kelly’s Bluff, which overlooks S.A. Sutton, founder of Preserve Our the Mississippi River and downtown Bluffs, of Dubuque. “There will be Pelicans Nest Here Dubuque. years of pounding, hammering and Thomson, Ill. — Staff from the Sa- “What will drilling the piles to drilling, with the project being built vanna District of the Upper Missis- support a structure like that do?” in increments.” sippi River National Wildlife and Fish Francine Banwarth asked. “When I Sutton noted that the oldest section Refuge announced in June that white think of what A.J. Spiegel has done of Dubuque lies below Kelly’s Bluff. pelicans are nesting on Pool 13 of the to the other bluff, I wonder what will “The neighborhood will not with- Upper Mississippi River. They have happen to this one.” stand the destruction and the noise,” photographs to prove it, although The “other bluff” is on the north she said. “Our neighborhoods have they were reluctant to give the exact side of Dubuque at Eagle Point Park. become disposable.” location of the island. During an attempt to make way for Murphy said he doesn’t believe Although more and more of the a condominium project in 2003, Spie- big birds have been spending sum- gel chopped off a portion of the rocky (River News continues on page 47)

September-October 2007 / Big River Magazine 33 Treasures Along the River Road — Fountain City Houses

The 55-ton boulder that plumeted off the cliffs and landed in this bedroom has become a tourist attraction.

34 Big River Magazine / September-October 2007 Captain Henning’s compact brick home is on the waterfront.

Story and photographs by Kate Halverson

ext time you zip through Fountain City, Wis., on Heads Up! the Great River Road, slow down. If you poke The Rock in the House overlooks the Mississippi, just Naround for an hour, you’ll find several intriguing across the highway from the Army Corps of Engineers historic houses that reflect the river and its history. Service Base, at the foot of steep rocky bluffs. After being Located across the river and a few miles upstream from hit twice by gigantic boulders from those bluffs, this mod- Winona, Minn., on Wisconsin Highway 35, Fountain City est home was turned into a museum. You can enter and is set on the side of the hill below Eagle Bluff, named for explore it on your own, throwing a buck in the bucket on the bald eagles soaring overhead. The town was home- the honor system. (Wisconsinites will note the playful jum- steaded in 1839 by both Swiss and German immigrants, bling of the House on the Rock, in Spring Green.) and was known as Holmes Landing. Residents built a Newspaper clippings, neatly laid out on counters inside fountain to take advantage of a spring that flowed out of the house, tell the story of the first and second boulders. the rock in town, which became a landmark and inspired In April 1901, a five-ton boulder rumbled down the 550- the renaming of the town. The fountain is gone, but the foot limestone cliff, crashed into a little back bedroom and name remains. killed the woman who was sleeping there. Fountain City has several historic residences that are Nearly 100 years later, in 1995, another boulder broke unusual, interesting and worth a second look. All are pri- loose, gained frightening momentum and crashed into vate homes, except for the Rock in the House, which has what was then the Dwight Anderson home. This one a sign on the highway inviting visitors to come in and weighed 55 tons. It tore off exterior walls and wedged itself explore. into the backside of their home. No one was injured, but

September-October 2007 / Big River Magazine 35 one month later Maxine and Dwight Anderson bid adieu to their little house. Francis and John Burt had wanted to buy the house before the second boulder fell. They didn’t want to see the house demolished so they pro- ceeded with the purchase. The boulder was included, no extra charge. “Something important happened in Fountain City and we wanted everyone to take note,” the Burts explained. They established a River Road tourist attraction with a sign stating “The Rock Stops Here.” Featured in People Magazine (9-4-1995) and the Chicago Tribune (8-9-2002), the self-guided tour through the three-room house is well worth the dollar. How could gigantic boulders fall twice in almost the same spot? “I think it has to do with spring thaw,” said Francis Burt. Water that seeps into cracks in the porous limestone freezes and expands in winter, pushing the rock apart and making it split and give way when the water melts. The Burts live elsewhere. River Captain’s House A block downriver of The Rock, right on the river at 311 North Shore Dr., a neat one- story brick house attracts the eye with its compact design. Built in the 1890s, this house has a gracious wrap- The porthole window adja- around porch that opens onto gardens — both cent to the front entry pro- amenities typical of 19th century homes. vides a nautical look. The house was built in 1947 for Captain William Hen- narrow, bleached elm staircase connects ning, who spent most his life on the 10 rooms on two floors. Original wall- the river. Henning was born and coverings and elegant fixtures still hang in raised in Fountain City, and began the entry foyer. his career on the river as a deck hand The wrap-around open porch graciously set- and fireman at the age of 16. At 21 he was a tles into the side yard, beckoning guests to sit a spell licensed pilot, shuttling passengers back and forth across while gazing upon the river. A distinctive ginkgo tree pro- the Mississippi on packet boats, such as the Robert Harris. vides summer shade. (Packet boats, similar to ferry boats, were used to trans- port people and products prior to highways, bridges and Prairie School House train tracks.) Captain Henning commanded the dredge The house next door, at 348 South Main St., is a striking William A. Thompson during his last six years on the river, contrast. Built by a second generation Fugina, son Martin, and retired in 1942 as one of the oldest master pilots on the in 1916, the house was designed by Prairie School architect Upper Mississippi. He died in 1967 at the age of 93. Percy Dwight Bentley. It is presently occupied by fourth- and fifth-generation members of the Fugina family. Pioneer’s House Percy Dwight Bentley, born in La Crosse, Wis., in 1885, Another, quite different, historic house is at 340 South Main was trained in Chicago, where he met architects Louis Sul- St. This stately, white-columned two-story house was built livan and Frank Lloyd Wright. He became a devotee of the in the 1890s by an early resident of Fountain City, Joseph Prairie School design philosophy before returning to La Fugina. His descendents still maintain and live in it. Crosse and opening his own office in 1910. Alethea Fugina has the original paperwork document- Bentley and the Fugina homestead are featured in the ing construction of the house for $1,974, “excluding the fur- book The Prairie School, written by H. Allen Brooks in the nace.” The house has been remodelled only twice in more early 1970s. “When Mr. Brooks was researching his book, than 100 years — once for a family room on the back and he told us our house was the architect’s best work,” Ale- again for a second floor extension over the front porch. A thea added with pride.

36 Big River Magazine / September-October 2007 Prairie School architect Percy Bentley designed dozens of homes in Wisconsin and Minnesota, including the one above in Fountain City.

The dark Roman brick house is on the National Register of Historic Places. With classic leaded glass windows, ornamental downspouts, cantilevered roof- ing and strong horizontal lines, the Fugina homestead is a Great River Road treasure. A series of letters between the architect and her father-in-law, and the original colored design render- ings are treasured by Fugina descendents. “I remember Percy Bentley, so wanting to do what was right for the site, building the home into the ter- rain,” Alethea said. Stylish Look-alike House The Fuginas’ Prairie School house was so admired at Another Fountain City home is modeled on the Percy Bentley house, including many the time, another Fountain City resident built one like external and interior details. it at 220 South Main St. Unable or unwilling to hire architect Bentley, the admire the breathtaking views of the river. Note that many Kirschner family hired the Fuginas’ original contrac- historic houses were built into the steep south-facing hill- tor to build his house. Stucco siding was used instead of side and look much taller from the downhill than from the brick, and the porch extension was flipped, but the floor- uphill side. Just keep an eye on the cliffs overhead. F plan is identical. The interior floors are one-inch white and red oak. The fireplace has the original green tile, and 76 Kate Halverson, ASID CID, is the owner of Touch of Class Interiors (Minneapolis-Lake City) www.tocinteriors.com. leaded glass windows are still intact. The house is noted Her last story for Big River was “Chateau Frontenac” May- in the 1992 book Frank Lloyd Wright in Wisconsin, by Kirsten June 2007. Visser. Before leaving Fountain City, drive up Hill Street and

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38 Big River Magazine / September-October 2007 Grilling Up Good Times at the Trempealeau Hotel

Story and photos by Pamela Eyden

ome restaurants succeed because The bar and restaurant draw boat- them. The asparagus soup was a good they’re pretty or have a great ers from the river, birders from the beginning, with asparagus, corn and Sview, some because of a good Trempealeau National Wildlife Ref- other vegetables in a light, flavorful menu and a kitchen that follows uge, campers from nearby Perrot State broth. through, and others because they pro- Park and bikers from the Great River The salad made a pretty plate, with vide an ambiance that encourages State Trail. The hotel rents eight sim- tender mixed garden greens, rings people to relax, talk and enjoy their ple rooms (with a shared bathroom) of sweet onion, a few halved cherry friends. upstairs and a variety of rooms and tomatoes and black olives, and slen- The Trempealeau Hotel succeeds suites around town. on all three criteria. It’s made the We ordered from most of its location on the riverfront the menu of entrées in the picturesque town of Trempea- and sat back to enjoy leau, Wis., offering a panoramic view our microbrews of the Mississippi River and the steep and iced teas as we river bluffs. The eclectic menu ranges watched the river and from their famous Walnut Burgers to discussed politics. Sal- Max’s Shrimp & Andouille Sausage ads, soups and din- Penne, steaks, salmon and Mexican ner rolls arrived just specialties. It’s probably the only res- as we were ready for taurant I’ve eaten at that offers pan- fried bluegills in both a sandwich and an entrée. And the place seems to have been designed for comfortable, casual good times. Four of us met there on a Sunday evening in late July after two of us had kayaked the Long Lake Canoe Trail, and another had tried his luck fishing on the nearby lock wall. In the spa- With a wide deck for viewing the cious yard between the hotel and the river and a garden out back, along river, hollyhocks and sunflowers were with a volleyball court, basketball in full bloom. People were sipping court and concert stage, the Historic and sitting in the Adirondack chairs Trempealeau Hotel can be a very busy on the veranda, while others helped place on weekends. their grandkids guide basketballs into the hoop near the outdoor concert stage. The river ran smooth under a soft gold sky. Dinner at the Trempea- leau Hotel was the perfect way to cap a summer weekend.

September-October 2007 / Big River Magazine 39 der shreds of carrot. The blue cheese The rack of Barbecued Pork Ribs was nested in whipped cream, rich dressing was chunky and savory. The ($19.95) impressed us all; it hung over with chocolate and seemed to evapo- vinaigrette on my salad was so good both ends of a long plate. My ambi- rate off the plate. I used the final drips instead of but- tious and hungry companion shared As we ate, guests occasionally ter on the delicious hard rolls. They his smokey-sweet tender ribs, ate his squeezed between tables to examine must have made it with extra virgin fill and brought some home. the local historic photos on the din- olive oil. All three dinners included ing room wall Actually, the establish- My tenderloin steak arrived on steamed fresh green and yellow ment’s full name is the Historic Trem- a white oval plate, garnished with pealeau Hotel, because it opened for tiny diced sweet red pepper. Unfor- business in 1871, and was one of the tunately, it had been overcooked, The Decadent Chocolate few buildings to survive a fire in 1888 going past medium rare into medium that destroyed most of the boom- — not what I wanted for my $21.95. Cake was nested in whipped ing city. Owners Jim and Linda Jen- The waitress apologized graciously, cream, rich with chocolate kins and a partner who is no longer whisked the plate away and promised involved bought the building in 1986 to return promptly with a replace- and seemed to evaporate off and restored it. The restaurant and ment. That left me to graze from the plate. bar made history again in 1994, when my companions’ plates — not a bad it went smoke free. situation when you’re reviewing a The Trempealeau Hotel, at the end restaurant. When the replacement beans and a heap of garlic mashed of Main Street, serves lunch and din- appeared, I found it very tasty. The potatoes, which complimented the ner seven days a week from April classic French demi-glaze was a rich, entrée and rounded out the meals. 1 to October 31. It’s open Thurs- subtle au jus. Though none of us were particu- day through Sunday in November The yellow fin tuna ($15.95) was larly hungry after our dinners, we and December, and closed January grilled to a perfect pink-but-not-too- felt it was our duty to test at least a through March. For reservations and pink doneness. Accompanied by tam- couple of the desserts. The mango information, call 608-534-6898. F ari and wasabi condiments, it made a and raspberry sorbets were light and light, tasty and healthy meal. fruity. The Decadent Chocolate Cake Pamela Eyden is Big River Magazine’s news and photo editor.

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40 Big River Magazine / September-October 2007 Bogus Creek Cafe and Bakery

Story and photos by Molly McGuire

ou can’t see Lake Pepin from Bogus Creek Cafe in Stock- Yholm, Wis., but you’ll see a lot of the Mississippi getting there on scenic Highway 35. Stockholm is a perfect small-town getaway and one of several interest- ing towns that circle Lake Pepin. Bogus Creek Cafe and Bakery is on Stockholm’s only commercial street, just off the highway. To enter, one walks down through a garden to a tree-shaded terrace. The cafe and the bakery are on either side of this out- door dining area. One can sit indoors, but on pleasant days, such as on the first of two visits this summer, there may not be a soul dining inside. We sat in an area called Bogus Bay, shaded by trellised vines and a huge weeping willow. Sleepy from the drive, I welcomed the rich cof- fee served in a blue Fiesta cup while my companion chose a dark Sprecher beer. Later I sipped a Wisconsin wine, the Wollershiem Prairie Fumé. It was A tree canopy and sun umbrellas create dappled shade for a relaxing breakfast or lunch at Bogus Creek. light and refreshing, just the thing for a sunny day that was starting to turn For dessert we split an order of hot. bread pudding, which was scrump- We were served a variety of fresh tious, with pecans, cinnamon and bread from the bakery. Our first caramel sauce — a soft, chewy and course was a refreshing gazpacho. crunchy treat. We tried to identify all its flavors and I returned to Bogus Creek Cafe textures, then, with help from the again on the afternoon of the popu- head cook, Colleen Flynn — who is lar Stockholm Art Fair in July, when also the gardener and owner — we there was a longer waiting line, a discovered its secrets were a dash of special menu and lots of hubbub. worcestershire and a good amount Even under this pressure, the staff of tarragon. The flavors were well- was friendly and helpful, and the blended and perked up the palate. food tasty and satisfying. My partner I ordered a pasta salad with fet- was pleased down to the last morsel tuccine, lettuce, vegetables, chicken with his fruited salad with chicken. and pesto sauce. The veggies were He remarked on the complex flavor crunchy and the romaine was fresh of the chicken, which I learned later and crisp, although I might have was seared on a griddle, seasoned enjoyed even more of the basil-and- with salt, pepper, garlic and five-spice garlic pesto mixed into the salad. My powder, then deglazed with a semi- companion ordered the black bean dry white wine. My half a reuben burrito, actually only half, which she sandwich was delicious and savory, found delicious. It was topped with accompanied by a generous helping the works – cheese, tomatoes, cilan- of herbed potato salad and an assort- tro, olives and avocado, and served The name may be “Bogus,” but the cafe lives (Bogus Creek continues on page 44) with salsa, chips and sour cream. up to its motto, “Our Food is Real.”

September-October 2007 / Big River Magazine 41 Our Favorite Things continues the picnic tradition by offering lunches to go. My husband and I recently sampled the shop’s fare and took our lunch to the park. While waiting for our meals, we looked around the cozy shop. Linda Ludovissy said she and her part- ners, Becky and Kim Moser, stock it with discoveries they have seen and enjoyed elsewhere — candy, jellies and jams, popcorn, jewelry, table run- ners and other gift items, some of which are made locally. “We wanted to bring things into town that hadn’t been here before,” Ludovissy said. The seafood salad sandwich, which consisted of shrimp and mock crab meat on rye bread, was light and cool. Some finely chopped onion and celery gave it just the right amount of crunch. The ham and Swiss on a croissant roll was also very good. With lightly smoked ham, thinly sliced, and gen- erously served, the sandwich was a Limestone buildings along River Park Drive help create an old-world ambience. deli treat with a Midwestern touch. Other choices consisted of chicken salad, tuna salad and egg salad. Picnic in the Park Flavorful homemade potato salad accompanied both sandwiches. Ludo- vissy said they use mostly real may- in Guttenberg onnaise to tone down the sweetness that is all too common in local dishes, Story and photos by Becky Sisco but add just enough salad dressing to give it a bit of tang. ichard Dethoff sat on a park Later, townsfolk became accustomed The iced coffees, of which there are bench recently gazing out at to picnicking on the land, so, when 12 flavors, are popular. The Belgian Rthe Mississippi, while his wife the Illinois Central Railroad wanted Chocolate coffee, for example, was Lois browsed in a bookstore across to lay tracks along the river in 1868, dark and rich, with just a hint of wel- the street. The Amboy, Minn., cou- the German housewives refused to come bitterness. The berry smoothie ple had stopped in Guttenberg, Iowa, give it up. In 1902, they formed the was refreshing and so thick I couldn’t on their way home from a vacation Ingleside Women’s Club, which still drink it through a straw. in Indiana. They had decided to go exists, and hired a landscape archi- As though we hadn’t eaten by way of the Great River Road. “We tect to lay out Ingleside Park. enough, we decided to sample two love the river,” Richard said. “We fol- Today the park stretches a mile of the cafe’s homemade cheesecakes. low it whenever possible.” long and about a block wide through Both the Chocolate Sundae and the Guttenberg attracts visitors with downtown beside the Mississippi and Caramel Apple Cheesecakes were its limestone architecture, riverside connects with city sidewalks for an rich and creamy, baked high on a gra- shops, mile-long riverside park, and additional mile. Large shade trees, ham cracker crust. up-close view of the river and Lock benches and picnic tables dot the During the cool months, Our and Dam 10. park, providing a perfect place for Favorite Things offers homemade Unlike most cities and towns, walking the dog, tossing a Frisbee soup. Based on our experience, I sus- Guttenberg’s shoreline has remained or a cranking up the grill. Families pect they’ll be wonderful. accessible to the public, thanks first to and groups of friends still gather for The shop is open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Lenz Tujetsch, an early Swiss settler picnics. Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday who grazed his cows there, accord- Just a half block off River Park and Saturday. ing to local historian Barbara Leitgen. Drive, which runs along the park, After lunch we walked down to

42 Big River Magazine / September-October 2007 the Guttenberg Aquarium and Fish immigrants, accompanied Management Site to see some native by two barges containing fish, including a big, ugly catfish, up their belongings, set out close. The facility is open 8 a.m. to 8 from Cincinnati, bound for p.m. daily May 1 through Oct. 1. Prairie La Porte (named by Along the way we also marveled French explorers and, in at Guttenberg’s many limestone 1847, renamed Guttenberg). structures. They include homes and According to Walter W. commercial buildings as well as the Jacobs, author of The First Landing, an inn in a building that One Hundred Years: A his- once housed a pearl button factory tory of Guttenberg, Iowa, the and contains some of the original fac- voyage was “so long and tory equipment. The entire business tiresome” with its count- district is listed on the National Reg- less stops for wood along ister of Historic Places, and Gutten- the way, that most of the berg’s web site provides a download- immigrants abandoned able walking tour of historic sites. the convoy in Burlington, Leitgen said the town boasts so Iowa, rather than continue many stone structures because lime- the voyage up the river. stone was handy — it came from Guttenberg now cel- Linda Ludovissy greets customers at Our Favorite Things. the limestone bluffs along the river ebrates its German origins — and because the Germans who each year with German Fest. The by many as one of the best walking established Guttenberg valued its event, which features authentic Ger- places in the country. F 8 durability. man music, food, games and a “Heidi The town was first settled by five contest,” will take place September 22 Becky Sisco is a writer based in Dubuque. Her last story for Big River German immigrant families, who this year. Visitors can enjoy the music, was “Guide to Renting a Houseboat” arrived via steamboat in 1845. Ini- laughter and autumn colors. The riv- May-June 2007. tially, a group of 10 steamboats full of erside park in Guttenberg is prized

Visit Historic Fulton, Illinois Trempealeau,Wisconsin “A vision Born of Heritage” on the Mississippi Authentic Dutch Windmill • Heritage Canyon - 1800’s Village • Historic Downtown Shopping District • Great River Trail • Lock & Dam 13 • National Scenic By-Ways: Lincoln Highway and Great River Road • Martin House Museum • Quality Dining • Ancestral Home of Ronald Reagan Come and enjoy all this area has to offer .....

Upcoming Events • International Wooden Shoe Exhibit May 26 - October 14 • Fall Festival Great River Road October 13 & 14, 2007 Perrot State Park • Christmas Walk National Wildlife Refuge December 7 & 8, 2007 Great River State Bike Trail • Annual Bald Eagle Watch Lock and Dam 6 January 5, 2008 McGilvray Road Bridges Lodging, dining and specialty shops

Trempealeau Chamber of Commerce Fulton Chamber of Commerce (608) 534-6780 www.trempealeau.net [email protected] 1-815-589-4545 • www.cityoffulton.us

September-October 2007 / Big River Magazine 43 (Bogus Creek continued from page 39) ment of fruit. Half a sandwich was plenty. Some people flock to Bogus Creek for breakfast, which is served all day. The Swedish donut stuffed with ricotta cheese, bananas and toasted pecans sounds delicious. On Art Fair Saturday, the cook was serving up salmon cakes topped with poached eggs as well as regular breakfast menu items, including Bogus Hash with eggs, hash browns, peppers, ham or sausage, salsa and sour cream; and a breakfast burrito, with eggs along with the black beans. On each visit I purchased bread from the bakery — a nice round loaf of herby foccacia and the cheese bread, still warm. Owner Colleen Flynn considers tending the garden good therapy. Bogus Creek Cafe is open daily 9 a.m. to 5 p.m, and weekends 8 a.m. to December. Smoking is allowed out- Bogus Creek Cafe and Bakery 5 p.m. until the end of leaf-peeping side. The cafe can accommodate 40 N 2049 Spring Street season, through October. After that, diners inside and 45 outside. They Stockholm, WI 54769 it will be open Friday through Sun- accept cash and checks, but not credit (715) 442-5017 day 9 to 5 until Stockholm’s Coun- cards, and take reservations for large try Christmas, the first weekend in groups only. F Molly McGuire is Big River Maga- zine’s managing editor.

MusMeetcatine

For a free Visitors Guide and information on Muscatine 1-800-25-PEARL www.meetmuscatine.com

44 Big River Magazine / September-October 2007

10 South Front Street Lansing, IA • 563-538-4497 • Lansing,IA SouthFront10Street www.lansingiowa.com GreatView Food & Open 6 Open S Mt. Hosmer Jam Shop Jam Hosmer Mt. Thornton House B&B House Thornton EWHAT EE AM – 2 – Availableat: AM o-a;7 Mon-Sat; • u!DockingAvailable Fun! River’s ’ River’s E AT NEW S Serving Breakfast, Serving Lunch & Dinner & Lunch AM E G D E Magazine – 2 – AM Sun. , AidConservation Close-up Views Birds Live with & Ducks Geese of Thousands of Hundreds Swans, Tundra of thousands of Tens FALLBIRDING FESTIVAL Full itinerary & registration details: www.lansingiowa.com details: registration & itinerary Full November 9, 10 & 11, 2007 11, & 10 9, November September-October 6th Annual RIVERS Annual 6th D E T I V N I E R A U O Y • Explore MN, WI & IA via Half-DayviaExploreIA Field Trips& WI MN, & BLUFFS & • • Sponsored by “Friends of Pool 9” Pool of “Friends by Sponsored • Door-Prizes, edr & Artists & Vendors ieMusic Live • Gift Certificates 2007 • rie o MsispiRvr for River Mississippi on Cruises / B ig • Silent & Live Auctions to R ive • Expert Naturalists Expert r M agazine 45

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46 Big River Magazine / September-October 2007 (River News continued from page 33) the project will harm the area. “We’re building a minimum of 60 feet from the hill,” he said. “We’re on a hill, not the edge of a bluff. ... The piles will be drilled only 3 to 5 feet into the rock.” Regardless, Banwarth believes the condominiums will be out of pro- portion with the bluff. “They will be absolutely looming up there,” she said. Megacryometeor? Dubuque, Iowa — Large chunks of ice, including one that weighed more than 50 pounds, fell out of the sky early one July morning. The big one bashed into the home of a woman who had just gotten up to go to church. “It sounded like a bomb!” said 78- year-old Jan Kenkel, who was stand- ing in her kitchen when an ice chunk crashed through her roof at about 5:30 a.m. “I jumped about a foot!” She made a few calls, put the big ice ball in her freezer and began cleaning up the debris — insulation, ceiling tiles and chunks of the roof had come down with the ice. She drank her first cup of coffee of the morning then called her insurance company. News traveled fast, and by next day, newspaper and radio reporters from across the country were call- ing Kenkel and neighbors who also reported basketball-sized chunks of ice. There was speculation that the ice had fallen from a thunderstorm cloud, but the skies that morning were clear. Others suggested the ice could have fallen from an airplane, which happens sometimes, although the ice from airplane latrines is usu- ally blue. Explanations finally set- tled on the possibility the ice was a “megacryometeor,” which is like a hailstone, but needs no thunderstorm. Most megacryometeor sightings have occurred in coastal areas, where atmospheric turbulence helps keep ice suspended long enough to grow into large chunks. Some scientists speculated that global warming had caused turbulence in Iowa skies, promoting the formation of big ice balls. F

September-October 2007 / Big River Magazine 47 48 Big River Magazine / September-October 2007 September-October 2007 / Big River Magazine 49 Lake City, Minnesota

Johnny Appleseed Days October 6 & 7

Pepin Heights Orchard: The HoneyCrisp Place!

Open 9 a.m. - 6 p.m. EVERYDAY!

Located directly off of Hwy 61 just south of downtown Lake City... Stop in and sample the region's favorite apples!

Photo by Mike Nelson

50 Big River Magazine / September-October 2007 Lake City, Minnesota

Johnny Appleseed Days October 6 & 7

Pepin Heights Orchard: The HoneyCrisp Place!

Open 9 a.m. - 6 p.m. EVERYDAY!

Located directly off of Hwy 61 just south of downtown Lake City... Stop in and sample the region's favorite apples!

Photo by Mike Nelson

September-October 2007 / Big River Magazine 51 McGregor-Marquette, Iowa TwoTwo historichistoric riverriver townstowns withwith endlessendless treasures!treasures! www.mcgreg-marq.orgwww.mcgreg-marq.org (800)(800) 896-0910896-0910 Effigy Mounds National Monument Pikes Peak State Park Spook Cave

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Stauer House Bed & Breakfast 629 Main Street McGregor, IA 52156 Contact Gayle Hartwig (866) 286-1914 or (563) 873-2650 Hosts: Robert & Donna Staples Edgar St., Marquette, IA 52158 [email protected] (563) 873-2713 email: [email protected] www.hartlandvisionloghomes.com

52 Big River Magazine / September-October 2007 Fountain City, Wisconsin Founded 1839

September-October 2007 / Big River Magazine 53 Alma,WisconsinAlma,Wisconsin

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Advertiser Index 50 Uncommon Birds of the Upper Midwest . . . 18 Great River Organic Milling ...... 53 Pepin Heights Orchard ...... 50 Alma, Wis., Chamber of Commerce ...... 55 Great River Coffee Roasters & Cafe ...... 49 Pepin, Wis...... 47-49 Alma, Wis., Tourism ...... 54 Grumpsters Log Cabin Getaway ...... 52 Pepin Realty ...... 48 Alma Leather ...... 55 Hansen’s Harbor ...... 14 Piccadilly Gallery ...... 10 Art & Soul Gallery ...... 55 Harbor View Cafe ...... 49 Pickle Factory ...... 48 Belvedere Mansion ...... 10 Hartland Visions Log Homes ...... 52 Pieces of the Past ...... 46 Best Western Quiet House & Suites ...... 62 Hawk Watch 2007 ...... 59 Rather Bee Quilting ...... 50 Big River Magazine Testimonial ...... 9 Hawks View Cottages & Lodges ...... 12 River Cities Floating Condos ...... 6 Big River Room Restaurant ...... 15 Hillcrest Motel ...... 55 River City Vacation Rentals ...... 38 Bird-Song.com, Inc...... 16 Island City Harbor ...... 4 Rivers & Bluffs Fall Birding Festival ...... 45 Blackhawk Waterways CVB ...... 19 Jefferson Pub & Grill ...... 46 Rivers Edge Restaurant ...... 45 Blue Heron Coffeehouse ...... 12 John Deere Pavilion ...... 61 Riverwise Publishing ...... 27 Blue Heron Project ...... 46 Julia Belle Swain ...... inside front cover Robert J. Hurt Landscape Photography . . . . . 4 Bluff Country Co-op ...... 10 Kate & Gracie’s Restaurant ...... 55 Signatures Restaurant ...... 20 BNOX ...... 48 Lake City, Minn., Chamber of Commerce ...... 50 Smith Brothers Landing ...... 49 Boats & Bluegrass Festival ...... 26 Lake City, Minn., Tourism ...... 51 Smith Gardens Community Farm ...... 53 Bridges Golf Course ...... 20 Lansing, Iowa ...... 45 Stauer House Bed & Bath ...... 52 Business Card Gallery ...... 56 Laura Ingalls Wilder Museum ...... 47 Stonefield Village, Wis. State Historical Site . . .38 Buzzard Billy’s & Starlite Lounge ...... 19 Magnolias ...... 46 Stoney Creek Inn ...... 27 Carroll County, Illinois ...... 44 Marcou Realty ...... 9 Swan Jewelers ...... 50 Century 21 Pepin Office ...... 49 Marquette/McGregor, Iowa, Tourism ...... 52 T&C Latane ...... 49 Chestnut Mountain Resort ...... 1 McGarrity’s Inn ...... 45 Touch of Class Interiors ...... 9 Coffee Grounds & Buffalo Trading Co...... 54 McGregor/Marquette, Iowa ...... 52 Traxx Restaurant & Lounge ...... 54 Country Stop of Pepin ...... 48 McGregor’s Landing Bed & Bath ...... 52 Trempealeau, Wis., Chamber of Commerce . . .43 Dan’s Pepin Marina ...... 48 Minn. Weather Guide & Environmental Calendar 38 Twisted Chicken ...... 16 Dockside Mercantile ...... 48 Minneapolis Queen Riverboat ...... 18 University of Iowa Press ...... 18 Dyersville National Farm Toy Show ...... 59 Minnesota Marine Art Museum ...... 40 Upper Midwest Audubon Conference-Twin Cities 18 Eagle Valley Realty ...... 53 Mississippi River Explorer Cruises ...... 1 Villa Louis, Wis. State Historical Site ...... 38 Eagles Landing B&B and Winery ...... 52 Mississippi River Pearl ...... 54 Vintage Cottage Boutique ...... 50 Eagles Landing Condominiums, LLC ...... 9 Muscatine, Iowa, CVB ...... 44 Visit Winona ...... 8 Edina Realty ...... 16 National Eagle Center ...... 4 Water Lily Gifts ...... 54 Effigy Mounds Nat. Monument Guide Book . . . . . 16 Natural Gait ...... 61 Waterways Journal ...... 58 Elmer’s Auto & Toy Museum ...... 53 NE Iowa Art Tour ...... 40 Wild Rose Timberworks ...... 4 Felice Patra Inn ...... 54 Onalaska Bike Trail ...... 26 Willows on the River Condominiums ...... 50 Fountain City, Wis...... 53 On-Deck Sailing Charters ...... 49 Wings Over Alma ...... 54 Fulton, Illinois ...... 43 Padelford Packet Boat Co, Inc...... 61 Winona, Minn...... 46 Galena Cellars ...... 10 Paper Moon Gifts & Books ...... 52 Winona County Historical Society ...... 8 Golden Frog Restaurant & Saloon ...... 53 Pearl of the Lake Paddleboat ...... 50 Wisconsin Historical Society ...... 38 Gordian’s Knot LLC ...... 2 Pendleton’s Boutique & More ...... 46 Yellow Bird Art Shop ...... 45

58 Big River Magazine / September-October 2007 the cliff. There is also a remnant remnant a also is There cliff. the added. wall Ding- significance,” hugeecological animals. and plants rare of variety a protects that parcel Trust. Land consin WestWis- the at relations external of director Dingwall, Michelle explained public, the to open not It,ment. too, is develop- further from it protects year this family Fernholz the with ated negoti- easement conservation a but farmed, be to continue will itof some and home a SNA includes the of east and south the to and to contiguous parcel 270-acre A future. the in ing farm- development,or ther logging fur- from it protects easement the but public, the to open not is and home privatea includes land SNA.This the of east and north the to land tiguous con- of acres 58 for family Hedin the from easement conservation a 2005,of in purchase, the arrange helped also It 2004. in purchased it(SNA), which Area Natural State Bluff Rock Maiden 250-acre the manages trust land The top.bluff and bluff the of much ing includ- 328acres, another of protection the for arranged and acres 250 purchased Trust Land consin donors. and tions founda- landowners, agencies, government between prospects, better with marriage a brokering finished recently trust land A her.for picked had parents her man the marrying to consent than rather cliff the off haveleaped to said was Rock, Maiden by immortalized maiden car. the to back file single Wewalked rattle. the on 13Webuttons counted path. the moved off eventually and over We us Itahead. looked stopped. about15feet path the across laying rattlesnake timber healthy-looking (Maiden Rock continued from page 60) page from continued Rock (Maiden

“There are goat prairies above goatprairies are “There a aboutit.Ithas “We’rethrilled 578-acre a in work resulted this All WestWis- The Indian Dakota the Wenonah, a saw I later moments few A (Linda Keefe) (Linda Mississippi. Upper the on bluffs dramatic most the of one is Rock Maiden BigRiver 07 7/10/07 12:06 PM Page 1 12:06PMPage 077/10/07 BigRiver parking lot. parking the of(right) north the to begins trail The Lane. Long of end the atlot the to 0.7miles Drive antenna. broadcast the after left first the Lane, Long to mile one top bluff the to up drive and E County on Turn left 0.73miles. Stockholm through St.)north (Spring J County Road)Rivertake Great (the site.web their visit or 715-235-8850 call information more For interests. special with groups for programs custom offers Italso north. miles abouttwo stream trout 1 Class a Creek, Pine and bluff the on ages all for programs environmental of ety species. rare and cliffs snakes, rattle- the of because trail the near or on stay to encouraged are Visitors site. the off vehicles ATVs other and keep to installed gate a at begins trail overlook. The an with spot a includes SNAthat the in loop trail skiing and hiking a maintains Trust Land consin summer. this chicks three hatched and bluff rocky the on nest that peregrines endangered of pair a and rattlesnakes timber including animals, and plants 2005. in plants prairie to cropland former of acres 70 replanted SNA.Italso the in savannas oak the favorto cedars removing is trust land Midwest.UpperThe the in common community.” plant rare very a — savanna oak To visit the site, from Highway35 site, To from the visit vari- a offers also trust land The WestWis- Claire-based Eau The rare of number a contains land The quite be to used savannas Oak F 8 September-October

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— Big River Places

(West Wisconsin Land Trust) A Hike on Maiden Rock Bluff By Reggie McLeod

For years I’ve wondered what the As we continued exploring the lake and the Minnesota shore looks blufftop on the clear sunny day, a big he mile-wide, like from the top of that big rock cliff. flock of pelicans rose up behind the 400-foot cliff of I can now report that it’s a pretty trees and flew low over us a couple of impressive view. Thanks to the work times, as if showing off their nine-foot Maiden Rock of many people who value this magi- wingspans and precision maneuvers. T cal spot, the bluff top will not wind up As we followed the workroad back dominates the view as a golf course and condo develop- to the car, it occured to me that it from Lake Pepin, ment, and part of it has become a pub- could be a good place for rattlesnakes. lic space that anyone can enjoy. If a rattlesnake is laying in the high a broad stretch of The first time I visited the bluff was an early September morning a cou- The land contains a number the Mississippi that ple of years ago. We followed a work begins about 60 miles road through fallow cropland going to of rare plants and animals, weeds. As we neared the place where including timber rattlesnakes below the Twin Cit- we figured the edge should be, we started looking for a break in the trees and a pair of endangered ies. Driving along the lining the field. We finally picked our peregrines that nest on the Wisconsin side of the way gingerly through the trees and poison ivy towards the opening on rocky bluff. lake, the Great River the other side. That opening was the vast empty space over Lake Pepin. weeds and we pass by it on both sides Road climbs a bit to The drop-off made me dizzy, so I kept at the same time, that rattler might squeeze between the one hand on a tree limb as I leaned get a bit nervous. While I’m not par- out to look at the tiny sailboats on the ticularly afraid of rattlesnakes, I don’t rock and the lake. lake and the town of Frontenac on the want to startle one. other side. (Maiden Rock continues on page 59)

60 Big River Magazine / September-October 2007 Mississippi River Cruises

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