Mountain Guide Manual 2018 Edition

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Mountain Guide Manual 2018 edition

CONFIRMATION OF RECEIPT OF GUIDES MANUAL

I (print employee’s name) ______have been provided a copy of JHMG’s Guide’s Manual. In receiving this manual, I agree to read and be responsible for knowing all information included in this manual.

Employee signature ______Date ______

JHMG MISSION STATEMENT & APPROACH

Our philosophy is simple: enrich people's lives by providing exceptional service and unforgettable experiences. We do this by:

• Offering fun and rewarding Mountain Adventures unique to JHMG by promoting client education, participation, environmental awareness and protection, and sound risk management on real climbs. • Operating professionally in all aspects of guiding and business operations. • Considering and minimizing our visibility and impact as commercial operators in the areas in which we operate. • Taking pride and ownership in our operations: office and field.

TABLE OF CONTENTS Section 1. Introduction- Goals and Purposes of Manual Section 2. Guide and Porter Qualifications/Hiring Section 3. Employment Expectations, Evaluation, Termination Section 4. Wages and Benefits Section 5. Training Section 6. Office Procedure & Policy Section 7. Transportation & Travel Section 8. Equipment Section 9. Food Section 10. Field Procedures and Policy Section 11. Corbet High Camp Section 12. Risk Management Section 13. Class Guidelines Section 14. New Guide Teton Hit List APPENDICES

Appendix A Emergency Phone Numbers Appendix B First Aid Kit-Contents Appendix C Emergency Response Guidelines Appendix D Injury/ Evacuation Report Form Appendix E Guiding Skills Training Checklist Appendix F Natural History of the Tetons Appendix G Leave No Trace Appendix H GTNP Permit Requirements Appendix J BTNF, SNF and CNF Permit Requirements Appendix K JHMG Record Keeping Strategy and Responsibilities Appendix L JHMG Two-Way Radio Protocol Appendix M JHMG Drug and Alcohol Policy Appendix N AMGA Alpine Transitions Appendix O JHMG Risk Management and Blood Borne Pathogens Guidelines Appendix P Policies Regarding Harassment, Discrimination and Equal Opportunity Employment

SECTION 1 INTRODUCTION – GOALS AND PURPOSES OF MANUAL

This manual is intended as a tool to help employees understand JHMG procedures and expectations of employment, specifically for our Jackson-based programs and employees. Certain procedures and expectations may differ in our Cody, Colorado, Moab and Red Rock offices – be sure to ask the appropriate branch manager. This manual also serves as a resource to help guides provide the best, most comprehensive mountain experience possible by including information on JHMG class outlines, JHMG history, Teton natural history and LNT.

This manual does not constitute a work agreement or work contract between JHMG and any employee: ALL EMPLOYMENT IS AT WILL.

Revisions to this guide may occur at any time and it is the responsibility of the guide and/or employee to be familiar with and implement current practices. This manual must always be used in conjunction with any updated document, as well as any oral briefing that may occur.

SECTION 2 GUIDE & PORTER QUALIFICATIONS/HIRING

JHMG is proud of its highly skilled guides. Top-notch guiding demands a diverse complement of skills, including technical mountaineering skills, leadership/interpersonal skills, as well as environmental awareness and education skills. Each guide brings his/her strengths and unique blend of skills, which will be appropriate to the assignment. It should be kept in mind that JHMG offers a range of guided trips and classes. Thus, although general expectations and hiring systems apply, most relevant is the guide’s appropriateness to the particular assignment.

Hiring: All applicants for employment at Jackson Hole Mountain Guides must complete an employment application. All applicants for guide positions must submit a cover letter, resume and three references to JHMG. All JHMG guides are hired with the approval of Chief Guide Rob Hess. Using the criteria listed below, he may base his decision on any one or a combination of the following: • Rob’s personal familiarity with the candidate’s skills and experience; • References from current JHMG guides and/or other colleagues; • AMGA certifications and/or successful training; • Resume

Typically, being hired and reaching guide status is a three-step process with oversight by Rob. Exceptions for good cause, such as extensive mountaineering guiding experience and familiarity with the terrain, may occur. Hiring involves judgment calls based on a person’s blend of technical, leadership and interpersonal skills combined with alignment with JHMG’s values and standards. The steps typically are: 1. Initial application that meets entry-level requirements & Rob’s approval; 2. Auditing classes and a GT 2-day as a guide candidate; 3. Working as a guide under supervision of a senior guide.

1) Minimum entry-level requirements for Jackson-based mountain guides are listed below: • Documented mountaineering skills and experience combined with documented experience in wilderness travel and camping techniques. • AMGA course work. • Field experience in the locations where we guide. • Minimum 21 years old. • Current CPR and Wilderness First Aid certifications (or higher, e.g., Wilderness First Responder, OEC, EMT or other comparable certifications). • Sound decision-making abilities and use of sound judgment relevant to the mountain guiding context – generally established/demonstrated by means of references, work history and/or supervised experience in the mountains/climbing areas. • For winter only: Level 2 Avalanche certification.

In addition to the above, Grand Teton National Park has established the following minimum requirements for Teton Guides: “All guides –winter, non-technical summit and technical climbing guides—must have experience in terrain that is more difficult than their guiding assignments. Guides assigned to 5th Class routes must be comfortable in at least 5.8 terrain (higher if necessary for the route) and guides on 3rd and 4th class ascents must have 5th Class experience. All guides must have experience in the Tetons.”

Other factors we consider and value: • A background in outdoor education or other forms of teaching, instruction and guide education. • An ongoing commitment to mountaineering demonstrated by actively pursuing personal climbing. • The interpersonal skills enabling successful guiding of diverse clients in a broad range of conditions. • Leave No Trace backcountry skills – as a JHMG guide you are expected to know and consistently practice these skills. • Agreement to adhere to the JHMG Drug and Alcohol Policy

2) Auditing classes- After passing the initial screening using the above qualifications, guide candidates are evaluated by peers as to their qualifications for working at JHMG. Before a guide is given a “hire” status, the guide will typically audit a Basic and an Intermediate class, and a 2-day Grand Teton climb, all without compensation. Based on the performance during these audits, the guide candidate will receive a formal “hire” or “no hire” evaluation.

3) New guides. Once a “hire” status has been granted, a new guide will typically work with a senior guide for a number of climbs See mentoring. In most instances, new guides will assist senior guides on one basic school and one intermediate school. The new guide will also assist on a 4-day Grand Teton climb for 80% mountain wage per day, and other climbs deemed appropriate by the Chief and/or Lead guide.

More demanding trips are assigned as training, ability, familiarity, and confidence are gained. New guides will typically accompany senior guides on longer trips such as Gannett Peak and Granite Peak to familiarize themselves with the areas prior to assignment on their own. Exceptions may occur on a case-by-case basis, for example when the guide has prior personal experience in the area and/or other experience guiding in the area.

Exceptions to the above schedule, subject to Rob’s approval, may occur in certain instances where the new guide has any one or more of the following or other qualities: • Experienced and respected guide in the industry; • Significant familiarity with the area to be guided; • AMGA certified guide; • Has climbed extensively with Chief guide, lead guide or another senior guide; and/or • Other relevant factor(s) demonstrating the necessary skills, experience and attitude to successfully guide the client. • Mentoring- all new guides will be assigned a Mentor to work with at JHMG. In general, new guides will remain in a Mentee role until certification in the discipline is reached. The purpose of this program is to

provide an avenue for new guides to be able to learn and develop as a guide from a more experienced guide who is also gone through AMGA training and certification. When ever possible, the Mentee will be assigned work with their Mentor but this is not a firm expectation. Mentees should look at this as an opportunity to hear how their Mentor might handle various guiding situations the Mentee may have had or expects they will experience. It will be the responsibility of the Mentee to seek out their Mentor for advice, thoughts and training as so desired.

JHMG FIELD STAFF DEFINITIONS, DUTIES AND COMPENSATION

Apprentice: an individual who aspires to be a guide and who demonstrates personal qualities and climbing skills that indicate high potential, but that ultimately leave them short of full guide consideration. This individual is one who JHMG feels is worthy of training and developing as a future full guide. Apprentices must express interest in and be committed to further training via the American Mountain Guides Association. In scheduling the apprentice, the following points will be applied: • Apprentices will remain in such a capacity until the chief guide and lead guide determine advancement is warranted. • Apprentices will be staffed in such a way where they will remain under direct supervision of the senior guide for the duration of the outing. • Apprentices will be staffed on mountain outings where the ratio of guide to client would otherwise be quite advantageous to the company, 1:3, 1:4. • Apprentices may be staffed on classes as a normal guide but as a subordinate to a senior guide. • Apprentices will audit a basic and intermediate school as well as a 2-day GT for no compensation. • Apprentices will be paid $80/day on classes and $130/day on mountain outings. • Unless otherwise discussed with the chief guide, apprentices will not be staffed where it would be otherwise appropriate to staff regular guides. • Limited gear sponsorship on the part of JHMG. ______

Guide candidate: The Chief guide and General Manager will review all guide candidates. In some cases, the Chief guide may call upon Lead guide to assist in the hiring process. Qualifications: • An individual who possesses the requisite and applicable skill set, mountain experience and credentials to serve as a mountain guide, furnishing such information in resume form. • All guide candidates will have demonstrated commitment to obtaining AMGA training and or certification. • All guide candidates will have WFR or OEC first aid training and CPR. Hiring process: • For final acceptance for hire, guide candidates must successfully complete audits of basic and intermediate schools and a 2-day Grand Teton climb for no compensation. • Upon acceptance, guide candidates (guide in training) will then work on assignments with senior guides in subordinate roles, on training climbs. In most cases, Guides candidates will be paid 80% of applicable guide wage on such climbs. • Guides candidates may be elevate to guide status in areas where they have fulfilled training climb status but may still be assigned at guide candidate status 80% wage on other outings.

Benefits: • Limited equipment sponsorship on the part of JHMG. • Guide candidates should expect to go on training/assessment climbs with the chief guide and lead guide. ______

Guide: Qualifications: • An individual who possesses the requisite and applicable skill set, mountain experience and credentials to serve as a mountain guide. • A guide who has fulfilled all the audits and training climbs and whom the chief guide has approved guide for assignment in the regular rotation. In certain cases, highly trained individuals may be fast tracked. • Continuing education, training and certification is expected. In some cases, scholarship funds may be available. Responsibilities: • Guides will conduct themselves in a positive, professional and courteous manner such that JHMG will be proud to have them as an employee. • Guides of this stature will not be assigned in the “training guide” role unless otherwise approved by the chief guide. • Guides operate subordinate to senior guides. Benefits: • Guides will be part of assigned work rotation, but will in general be assigned second priority to senior guides. • Guides will be given second priority in situations where the ratio based pay is applied i.e.; 5 clients to 2 guides, senior guide will get the 3:1 pay and guide 2:1 pay. • Guides are eligible for complete JHMG equipment sponsorship. ______

Senior Guide: Eligibility: • Senior guides are tenured guides that have shown high level personal and professional skill and who have dedicated in excess of 5 years as a full time guide for JHMG and or 200 documented days guiding for JHMG. Tenure alone does not ensure elevation to senior guide status. Senior guide eligibility for tenured guides will end as of 2016. Any guides seeking senior guide status after this time will need to have AMGA alpine guide assistant guides status to be considered for senior guide status. • Performance, dedication, diversity, training and certification are all key factors in attaining senior guide status. • IFMGA and certified alpine guides may be eligible for senior guide status in their first year. Responsibilities: • Senior guides shall serve as positive ambassadors to JHMG, and will be expected to conduct themselves in

such a manner. • Senior guides will be expected to take the lead especially in ratio-based scenarios: five clients/ two guides, the senior guide will work at 3:1 while the guide will go at 2:1. Ratio based compensation applies. • In teams of guides, the senior guide is expected to stay with the trip especially in situations where the trip must split and with some clients descending. • In scenarios of big groups at high camp, Senior guides are expected to coordinate the efforts at high camp, ensuring sound management of the groups and guaranteeing high level client satisfaction with all groups whether the Senior guides specific group or not. • Senior guides shall serve as mentors and role models for guides. • Senior guides will act as guide trainers when requested by Lead and or Chief guide. Benefits: • Senior guides will be given priority with work assignments, especially the more technically difficult and logistically complicated outings. • Senior guides will be given priority in ratio-based assignments, e.g., higher ratio, more pay. • Senior guides are eligible for full JHMG equipment sponsorship and in some cases expanded sponsorship. • Senior guides receive higher wages than guides. ______

Supervising Guide: Eligibility: • Senior Guide status with thorough understanding of JHMG operations. • Excellent leadership and problem-solving skills. Responsibilities:

• Supervising guide will oversee the organization of mountain operations on trips where multiple groups or single groups of large size are working together, such as when working out of a full high camp. • Coordinate small group organization and launch times. • Coordinate and execute evening guide meetings. • Insure proper assistant guide supervision is addressed. Benefits:

• Pay compensation for the trip assigned as Supervising guide.

Guide Mentor: Eligibility: • IFMGA licensed mountain guide or Certified guide of appropriate discipline preferred, though Tenured guide considered, • Extensive experience guiding with JHMG. • Strong communication skills and an ability to think objectively. Responsibilities: • Availability as needed to answer questions, give advise and help direct assigned individuals (Mentees) development as a guide at JHMG and beyond. • Guide in the capacity of supervising guide for mentees as opportunities arise. • Availability to run individualized training sessions with Mentees as sought out by Mentees. Benefits: • Elevated pay status.

Lead Guide: Qualifications: • Lead guides must possess many years of experience with a variety of terrain and have the skills and temperament to train new guides as per the vision of JHMG and the Chief Guide. • Lead guides are senior guides whom have been elevated to lead guide status for their skill, commitment, leadership and ability to help further the agenda of the Chief guide, General Manager and the organization as a whole. • Lead guides need to be AMGA certified in the discipline or ne a tenured guide with a resume of high enough degree and appropriate nature to the discipline. Responsibilities: • Lead guides are responsible to ensure high camp operates effectively and with a high level of professionalism. • Lead guides will assist and or lead bi-monthly guides meetings. • Leads guides will act as liaisons between guides and Administration and will be responsible for supporting and clarifying JHMG practices. • Lead guides will attend weekly meetings with the Chief Guide regarding performance of guides and guide scheduling. • Lead guides shall act as role models, mentors and trainers of all guides. • Lead guides will take part in reviewing, documenting and establishing acceptable JHMG guiding techniques for classes, rock and alpine guiding in the Tetons as well as all areas of operation. • Lead guides will take part in yearly guide evaluations. • Lead guides have overall responsibility in conjunction with the Chief Guide in implementing the risk

management plan. • Lead guides will work with the Chief guide to execute guide-training sessions. • Lead guides will assist the chief guide in assessing senior guide status. • Lead guides will submit weekly reports regarding risk management issues, guide performance, logistic effectiveness etc. • Lead guides will assist in scheduling of guides. • Lead guides will be in a supervisory role for all other guides. • Lead guides will ensure audit forms are completed for guide candidates. Benefits: • Lead guides will be compensated at a level above senior guide. • Lead guide will have access to scheduling priority so as to facilitate training and evaluation of specific guides.

Chief Guide: Qualifications • Minimum of ten years professional guiding experience in varied terrain. AMGA/IFMGA training/certification is required. • Expert level of skill in rock, snow and alpine climbing environments. • Excellent physical condition, capable of performing duties in harsh alpine environments. • Wilderness First Responder, Outdoor Emergency Care, or equivalent. • Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation (CPR) certificate. • Level 3 avalanche certificate. Duties and responsibilities: • Oversee all mountain operations. • In charge of reviewing, documenting and establishing acceptable JHMG guiding techniques and practices for classes, rock and alpine guiding in the Tetons as well as all areas of operation. • Act as overall role model, mentor and trainer of all guides. • Oversee, maintain, implement and or update, as needed, the JHMG risk management plan. • In charge of the maintenance and evolution of the guide’s manual. • Maintain a supervisory role of lead guides as well as all guides. • Guide hiring. Where needed, call upon lead guide to assist in such process • Oversee annual as well as ongoing training for guides. • Oversee new guide candidate training and advancement. • Chair meetings with senior guides regarding risk management issues, guide performance, logistical effectiveness etc. • Oversee, in conjunction with administration and lead guides, the appropriate scheduling of guides.

• Oversee the assessment and evaluation of guides regarding senior guide status. • Execute in conjunction with lead guides, annual review of all guides. • Oversee equipment budget and ordering and annual equipment inspection. • Chair and or delegate the execution of bi monthly guide’s meetings.

Guest Guide Policy – JHMG also has a program in place that allows for the hiring of AMGA certified guides who bring their own clients for the purpose of guiding those clients. Guest guides are not regular employees of JHMG, are not on the established JHMG roster and are not in normal assignment rotation. The guest guide program is currently available in JHMG Colorado, Cody South Fork ice, Moab/Indian Creek, Red Rock and City of Rocks. These guides are familiar with the areas, are AMGA certified in the relevant discipline and are approved by Rob. On some occasions, Guest guides may also be approved to work in the Beartooths, Winds and Tetons on a case-by-case basis with prior approval of the Chief Guide. Guides interested in Guest guiding with JHMG should be directed to Aimee Barnes

Porters: JHMG hires porters on an as-needed basis. They must be at least 21 years old. They may be traveling alone; e.g., carrying gear and supplies to High Camp, or in a group accompanying a guide and client(s) carrying supplies. Porters are hired based on references with the expectation that they are sufficiently physically strong and mountain-travel competent to be self-reliant in the mountains. Their responsibility is to carry gear and/or supplies. Porters are JHMG employees. See current wage document for wages. It is recommended that Porters have current first aid and CPR training.

SECTION 3

EMPLOYMENT EXPECTATIONS, EVALUATION & TERMINATION

Ongoing Administrative Responsibilities of Guides: • Ensure that documentation of current first aid and CPR certification is in your employee file. • Update climbing resume in employee file on an annual basis. • Update your W-4 if your status (married, single, dependent) changes. • Update your W-4 annually if you filed as EXEMPT – an exempt status for withholding expires each year, resulting in standard withholding. • Ensure your I-9 form is accurate and complete. • Update emergency contact information. • Update your address, especially for purposes of sending annual tax forms, and emergency contact information. • Keep the office manager/chief guide informed as to your work availability, interests and contact info. • Read/review the Guides’ Manual before first guiding assignment. • Refer to JHMG guides only website www.jhmg.com/guides-only/ and dry erase boards in food room for information and updates. • Complete PPE inspection form for the listed 7 pieces of fall protection equipment as detailed in the “guide only” page of the web site.

Ongoing Mountain Responsibilities and Expectations of Guides: • Excellent risk management is our highest responsibility. • Guides are expected to have solid mountaineering skills and experience, and possess excellent communication, interpersonal, educational and culinary skills. • Guides are expected, as a general rule, to have climbed the routes we guide. Exceptions to the rule might occur based on myriad factors including the difficulty of the route, available route information, guide skill and experience in the area. In all cases, guides must be able to effectively guide the routes they are assigned; it is the guide’s responsibility to decline an assignment if they will not be able to do so. • All guides are expected to have read, understand, and comply with the Guides’ Manual. Guides are responsible for knowing, comprehending and implementing all information. • All guides must understand permit compliance issues in the areas we operate and remain in compliance when working for JHMG. You are solely responsible for knowing and following all land use regulations and permit terms and conditions. Permit terms and conditions have been summarized in this guides Manual and at www.jhmg.com/guides-only/ • Guides must understand the emergency procedures and protocols for every area of operation. Review and ask any questions prior to departure.

• Copy and carry all emergency paperwork and laminated emergency reference card. • Guides must complete all pre and post trip administrative responsibilities including rental agreements, pre and post trip sign out, these electronic forms can be found at www.jhmg.com/guides-only/. • Guides are expected to process all JHMG equipment, used on a trip, immediately after returning from a trip. This means that all gear is to be put away and that the post trip forms have been completed.

Evaluation: Guides meet with the chief guide and/or lead guide before starting their work season for a pre-season discussion regarding goals and expectations of both the employee and the company for the upcoming season. Guides are evaluated on an ongoing basis, by experienced guides, the chief guide, lead guide and the office staff and owners. Positive feedback and suggestions of how a guide can improve are given as appropriate. In the event a problem persists, specific conversations with the chief guide are scheduled. In most cases, a course of positive action is developed with a timeline for improvement and feedback.

Guides will receive an end-of-season debrief/evaluation from the chief/ lead guide or General Manager to create a forum for feedback for both the guide and the company. All written feedback from clients is kept in the files and available for the guide to review. All gear issued to guides, including bear spray, radios, BTNF permit cards, should be returned at this time. You will also be evaluated on how you followed all JHMG procedures.

Termination: All JHMG employees are hired and work “at will.” Employment may be terminated at any time with or without cause, by either the employer or the employee. Immediate termination of "hire" status is rare, but possible, for example in instances of intentional misconduct or other highly inappropriate behavior that demonstrates an absence of the above-stated guides' qualifications or professionalism.

SECTION 4 EMPLOYEE WAGES, BENEFITS

Wages: Please see the current Wage Sheet (available in office and online in Guides Area) for wages for classes, day climbs and overnight mountain days. Extreme days, such as for a ski descent of the Grand, may be paid at a higher rate, BUT the “extreme” client price must be negotiated and established prior to the climb. Thereafter the guide wage must be established and agreed to prior to the climb.

Guides returning early from multi-day Teton climbs may or may not be paid for those days not in the field. This is dependent on numerous factors and up to the discretion of the Chief Guide and or General Manager. If a guide returns early from an out of valley (non-Teton) trip due to the request of a client, the guide will be paid for the day(s) not in the field, but will be expected to help out in the office. If work is assigned to the guide on the newly- available day(s), in no instance will the guide receive double pay.

Payroll: Payroll is run twice a month. Pay periods are 1-15, 16-end of month. Multi-day climbs that overlap pay periods are paid in the second period. Please review your paycheck for accuracy, and if you have a question, do not hesitate to ask office staff or Liz, the company’s bookkeeper, [email protected].

For Jackson-based employees, paychecks are left in the desk drawer in a bank pouch. Employees are highly encouraged to sign up for direct deposit, generally as this expedites the process of getting your paychecks into your account. If you did not sign up for this when completing your employment paper work, see the office or Liz Alva Rosa to sign up.

Mileage and Prep Day is paid for travel outside of the valley. Please see Mileage sheet in office. Prep days for out of valley trips are paid to the senior guide at a rate of $100.

Workers Compensation: All guides working for JHMG are employees and not subcontracted labor. Guides are covered by workers’ compensation when actually working for JHMG (during classes, climbs or other activities pre- assigned and agreed to by both the guide and office personnel) for injuries/illnesses incurred during employment as a result of the employment. A workplace injury must be reported to the office within 72 hours. Additionally, an injury must be reported to the State Division of Workers Compensation, per the relevant statute, within 10 days to maintain eligibility. Wyoming Workers Compensation forms are available online: http://www.wyomingworkforce.org/employers-and-businesses/workers-compensation/Pages/default.aspx Contact office personnel with questions.

Gear Sponsorship: JHMG has worked to secure advantageous gear sponsorship and key professional discounts in addition to the more usual pro discounts. JHMG is currently sponsored by Mountain Hardwear, Salewa and Mammut. See the Guides Only Page at www.jhmg.com/guides-only/ for forms and info. Guides are also eligible to participate in the JHMG Promotive discount program, as well as the Mountaingear Pro Purchase Program. Please see Aimee Barnes for information on how to participate. These sponsorships are conditional on providing feedback

on the gear we use. Guides are responsible for filling out at least one “JHMG Guide Equipment Feedback Report.” This report can be accessed on www.jhmg.com/guides-only/

Use of JHMG facilities such as the office, kitchen and showers is a benefit. Please do your bit to keep these areas clean.

Use of High Camp, canoes and other JHMG equipment is possible but must be approved prior to use by the office or chief guide ahead of time.

Simple IRA – for those employees who have a history of working for JHMG and expectation of earning at least $5000/year, JHMG provides a retirement plan. You can elect to have a certain percentage of your pay withheld and deposited into a Vanguard Simple IRA fund (your choice of the specific fund within the Vanguard family) and JHMG will match your SIMPLE IRA contribution -- up to 3% of your yearly JHMG income (starting from the point you started withholding IRA funds) -- at the end of the calendar/fiscal year. Contact main office or Liz @jhmg.com, for more information if interested.

SECTION 5 TRAINING

The JHMG training program is overseen by the Chief Guide and is designed to accomplish these goals: 1. Mountain Skills: Keep our guides up-to-date and competent with current AMGA scope of practice. 2. First Aid Skills: The current minimum National Park Service first aid training level is Wilderness First Aid, but for more remote settings – more than 2 hours from definitive care – guides, if working alone and without another guide who has a minimum of Wilderness First Responder (minimum 76 hours training), should have WFR or equivalent certification. A current CPR card is also required. 3. LNT and Environmental Awareness: Guides should practice and teach LNT principles on all classes and trips. Former NOLS executive director and JHMG owner, Jim Ratz, helped found LNT, and we take pride in advocating minimum impact philosophy and skills. We are also required by our operating permits to practice LNT and ensure our clients do so. In addition, guides provide interpretive and educational information for the client experience.

The Chief Guide keeps a record of guide participation and progress in regard to training and skill development. Training is accomplished through several avenues: 1. The Guides’ Manual outlines many of the expectations of work at JHMG and includes educational materials. 2. AMGA training for the discipline working in is required of all guides hired after December 31st, 2007. 3. Each summer JHMG runs multiple guide trainings during the summer. We encourage guides to suggest training topics. 4. Guides are expected to seek continual professional development as outlined by the AMGA. 5. Guides meetings occur consistently throughout the summer and offer excellent opportunities for impromptu and informal training and information exchange. 6. Significant on-the-job training takes place when more experienced guides are paired with less experienced counterparts.

SECTION 6 OFFICE PROCEDURE & POLICY

UPS and FedEx Deliveries. The physical (shipping) address of our office is: 1325 South U.S. Highway 89, Suite 104, Jackson WY 83002. Be sure to include P.O. Box 7477 in your shipping address when ordering.

Parking. Guests and guides may park anywhere in the main parking lot at Smiths. However, as a courtesy to our commercial neighbors, avoid parking in spaces directly in front of businesses. Overnight parking is fine, but try to find a space in the center of the lot as far away from business locations as you can get. DO NOT PARK ON THE WEST SIDE PARKING LOT. A single parking space in the covered parking lot on the north side of the building is reserved for JHMG’s company vehicle. The company vehicle should be parked in the enclosed parking space in the assigned space, # 104.

Storage of luggage and gear. Due to space considerations, we would prefer that guides and clients store their personal gear and luggage in their cars. In a pinch, small bags may be stored temporarily in the overhead compartments dedicated for such use. Clients leaving luggage with JHMG will be required to tag items and sign a release form--see front office for details.

Fire Exit. There are 2 fire extinguishers placed at various locations in the office. If the front exit is blocked by fire, call 911 then grab an ice ax from the equipment room and break through the sheetrock wall that separates us from the nail salon to the immediate west. We’re not kidding; if the front exit is blocked, this is your only way out. If you try to break through the wall that separates us from the hot tub shop, you will hit a solid concrete wall, so don’t even try.

Access. The front door has been equipped with a keypad door lock. The combination will be provided during your administrative briefing--please don’t share the combination with non-employees. The combination will be changed periodically and will be posted on the whiteboard in the food room. There is no back door. If you attempt to enter the premises from the rear, you will be disappointed.

Leaving the office. If you enter the office after hours, please lock doors and turn lights off when you leave! Double-check the lock to make sure the bolt is secure.

Kicking back. You may not use, possess, or be under the influence of alcohol on company premises. If management approves, you may drink moderately in the Guides Lounge, but never in the company of clients or customers. After hours, alcohol use is permitted in other areas of the office. Drinking in public in Jackson is illegal, so avoid the temptation to swill a cold one down by the creek, or out front.

Outside common areas. JHMG’s office is a commercial condo unit. All business and private residents of Eagle Village have access to the outdoor common area bordering Flat Creek, and the patio area on the north side of the building. Feel free to do gear checks or dry tents in these areas on sunny days.

Recycling. Small recycling containers are provided in the lounge area for aluminum cans, newspaper, brown glass and mixed color glass. Guides are encouraged to self-police this service and make recycling runs to the recycling center when necessary. The nearest recycling facility is at Albertson’s; another recycling center is located at the fair grounds near the intersection of Flat Creek Road and West Snow King Ave.

Trash. A dumpster is available on the west end of the building, just around the corner from the flower shop. Feel free to take a load out when needed.

Vertical storage considerations. Two ladders and a stool are provided to access the upper storage areas. Please use proper ladder safety techniques, and return ladders to designated areas after use. Please do not stand on chairs or shelves.

Shower and bathroom. The bathroom is available for guides and guests (i.e., clients). The shower is generally available for guides use only; however, in special circumstances and on a limited basis, the shower may be used by guests and visitors. To avoid burns in the shower, it is advisable to become familiar with the operation of the on- demand water heater. Clean towels are available for guides on the rear metal storage rack —place used towels in the hamper.

Classroom. The classroom is available for gear checks and for drying tents and gear when inclement weather prevents this from being done outside. Guides are asked to refrain from using this room to store their personal gear.

Storage of white gas. The storage of white gas, compressed fuel, or other combustibles is not permitted inside the premises, except for small quantities remaining in fuel bottles. White gas should be purchased in small quantities at Smiths on as as-needed basis, eliminating storage issues. Testing of camp stoves should be done outside in the grassy common area or in the parking lot on the northwest side.

Canoe and water use. PDFs and paddles are stored in JHMG’s storage unit south of town. Plan ahead for Moran trips. The canoe is currently stored in the JHMG parking place, which is parked in the enclosed parking lot on the north side of the building.

Some new things for 2016:

Client evaluation of JHMG. Introduced in 2014, Clients will be receiving an evaluation form electronically after their trip. All evaluations will be collected and presented to the guide throughout the season. They will also be presented and used in the post-season evaluation.

Sleeping bag liners are mandatory for all guests and guides staying at high camp. These items are available for purchase at JHMG. Please be sure you have a sleeping bag liner before departing for high camp.

Emergency procedures and after-hours check in. See Appendix A and Appendix C

Payroll. Paychecks are now placed in the front desk in marked envelopes in a bank pouch to provide some modicum of privacy. We are hoping to move over to an auto pay system for all guides.

Guides Page on www.jhmg.com Current information and paperwork are posted on the password protected Guides Only page of JHMG’s website. Please bookmark www.jhmg.com/guides-only/ Guides are responsible for checking here regularly for new information including updated pro deals.

Internet JHMG’s wireless signal is available to JHMG employees. Password is pownall48

Internal Communications. The white board in the food room is used to communicate High Camp issues, route conditions, administrative issues, meetings, etc. We will also have continuous Guide E-Blasts that communicates location specific operating conditions as well as other helpful information.

Work Scheduling. Work is scheduled by office staff, the chief guide and the lead guide. Office staff put a lot of energy into and take the utmost care to create a fair and appropriate schedule. No equation can accommodate the myriad variables. Ultimately, the office and guides need to remain flexible. Note that you work as an employee and your initial or tentative assignment to a trip is not contractual.

The initial priority of scheduling is the client; we seek to provide the client with the best experience possible by matching them with an appropriate guide. Second in line (still important, obviously) is the individual guide’s schedule.

The schedule is constantly reviewed in an attempt to provide a fair distribution of work. Guides are assigned work in accordance with fairness to all, ability, experience, seniority, commitment to JHMG, flexibility and availability. Your availability, flexibility and openness to different types of assignments make your scheduling easier and also help your fellow guide in the long run. Guides who demonstrate these attributes will receive priority over those who do not.

During the peak season of mid-July though late-August, it is an expectation of employment that guides will make every effort to be available.

It is important to keep the office staff apprised of your availability and whereabouts. Guides should be reachable by phone and have access to a vehicle in order to be reachable and available.

Daily Expectations • No clients are allowed in the office prior to opening at 8:00 am unless extenuating circumstances or scheduled early departures. Guides and office staff often require uninterrupted privacy before engaging with clients. • Guides should help clients get out the door in a timely fashion. • On days when classes are out, the office staff will remain until the classes have checked back in. • Do not come back late, unless previously arranged. • Guides must check in after all assignments. Calling, emailing or SMS text the office is appreciated, however, your official checkout will be the submission of the Post-Trip Report. After hours, call or text the designated after-hours JHMG contact (listed on white board in front office). • Make no promises or statements regarding trip prices or refunds to clients. Feel free to brief the office on any concerns regarding client satisfaction by submitting it in your Post Trip Report. • Facilities such as the telephone, shower, and kitchen are available for the guides to use. However, long distance phone calls are not allowed on JHMG phones unless approved by the office and for related JHMG use. Guides may not use the office computer, but they are welcome to unlimited wireless service. The telephone is not available to guides between 8:00 a.m. and 9:30 a.m. or during especially business times. Guides who are hanging around the office are expected to be available to greet or answer questions from the public if office staff is busy on the phone. Please be sure that the information you convey is accurate and that communication is clear with the office staff. Guides will not quote clients prices for classes or climbs. • Helping with such tasks as trash removal, washing dishes, bathroom and general cleaning, equipment and food organization, etc. is expected and appreciated of all employees throughout the season. It is imperative to take pride in the way the office appears. • Please beware: the office is essentially a public place and clients in the office can overhear your conversations without you being aware of their presence. • Consider what you are going to say before speaking. Professionalism and avoiding offensive language are important. No “F” bombs! • Jackson Hole Mountain Guides is an equal opportunity service provider and employer. Please refer to the employment posters in the office that explain your rights under the law.

SECTION 7 TRANSPORTATION AND TRAVEL

The company vehicle is not to be used to transport clients. Use of this vehicle is strictly limited to JHMG staff for business use only. If you need to use the vehicle, please let the office know in advance. This vehicle should be parked in the enclosed parking garage in the space assigned to Unit 104. Please return the keys to the office after each use.

Transportation issues. Due to a restriction contained in JHMG’s GTNP concession contract, Guides are not permitted to transport clients into or from GTNP under any circumstance. (NOTE: An emergency situation involving life or limb would be an obvious exception). Guides are discouraged from--but may if no other option exists--transport clients to Curtis Canyon or the Shield, but do so at their own risk, as JHMG’s general liability insurance policy does not cover this activity. Guides who transport clients in personal vehicles are advised to make sure their individual insurance coverage is adequate.

Mileage. For current mileage reimbursements rates for travel outside of the valley, please talk to Liz Alva Rosa.

SECTION 8 EQUIPMENT

JHMG supplies clients with all technical gear as well as group gear and food (except lunch, snacks and energy drinks) for overnight and longer trips. Technical gear includes ropes, harnesses, helmets, ice axes and crampons. We rent Five-Ten rock shoes, Adidas approach shoes, Mountain Hardwear packs. Check with the office for current rates. Group gear includes tents, stoves, pots and pans, bear cans, etc. At Corbet High Camp, all other camping needs are provided (except required sleeping bag liners – see below).

Two way radios guides are issued radios for use with operations. Guides are responsible for the charging, upkeep and care of the radio. Misuse on the part of the guide may result in charges.

Equipment and equipment room considerations. Please keep this area neat and organized. Guides are responsible for ensuring that all gear—harnesses, ropes, helmets, crampons, ice axes, rental shoes, packs and trekking poles, are returned to JHMG immediately after the climb. Proper care and use of all equipment is the responsibility of the guides. Unless damaged, gear must be returned neatly organized, in a timely fashion and in workable condition. Any gear that requires repair should be brought to the attention of office staff.

A new system to better account for gear (and to identify any problems) is in effect this year: Prior to departing for classes, guides must complete the Group Gear Checkout Report available on the JHMG Ipad, located at the front desk. Upon returning to the office, Guides must complete the JHMG Post Trip Report available on the JHMG Ipad, or available on-line at www.jhmg.com/guides-only/, this will confirm that all gear has been returned and any gear that needs attention has noted. All JHMG gear used on day climbs and multi-day trips returned after hours should be left in the “action packer” in the classroom; office staff will inventory and return the gear to the equipment room the following day. Ropes are labeled as lead ropes, ½ ropes and class ropes. Guides should inspect ropes regularly during use for wear and suitability, and bring any concern to the attention of office staff. Following use, it is the guides’ responsibility to return ropes to their proper places. All ropes are marked on one end with rope designation: 1, ½, TR along with length and date put into service, though we have no TR rope designations for ropes at High Camp.

Ropes, harnesses and helmets are inspected pre-summer season for compliance with manufacturers’ recommendations for use and retirement. In addition, Guides should as part of normal activities visually examine condition of equipment, and report any issues or concerns to the office.

Client gear – Clients are provided a list of the items they will need to bring, including sleeping bag liners for High Camp. Be familiar with all of the information we provide our clients. Before entering the field, clients must have their gear checked. Often the office staff can perform this function, but the ultimate responsibility to make sure this check happens rests with the guide. If a client is renting JHMG gear, please fill out the JHMG Personal Rental Gear Checkout Form. This is available on the JHMG Ipad located in the office.

Guide gear – Guides should be equipped with clothing and gear to meet their personal needs. Note that the gear JHMG has available for clients, such as harnesses, axes and crampons, is intended for client use, not use by guides; guides are expected to use their personal equipment. Likewise, rental gear is for client use only, unless pre-arranged with the office. Helmets are a required piece of gear both for compliance with JHMG policies pertaining to risk management and to comply with broader workplace safety requirements. As such, if you do not have a helmet, you may use a JHMG helmet.

Additionally, the guide is responsible for providing all necessary climbing hardware for client and guide, including rappelling/belay devices, slings, carabiners and protection. Although we do not expect gear to be new, it must reflect the guide’s professionalism and attention to risk management. All equipment used while guiding must be in compliance with manufacturer’s recommendations for use and retirement.

JHMG Equipment Sponsors: Mountain Hardwear JHMG has a partnership with Mountain Hardwear wherein Mountain Hardwear provides JHMG “full-time” staff with specific clothing and gear. If you have been provided with this gear you must wear and use it as appropriate; this is a requirement of our agreement with Mountain Hardwear. Additionally, our GTNP contract requires that staff wear identifying “uniforms” and these Mountain Hardwear items of gear with JHMG logos serve as your uniform. JHMG ballcaps also serve as uniforms. To facilitate meeting your other equipment needs, Mountain Hardwear offers all staff significant discounts.

Adidas JHMG likewise has a partnership with Adidas to provide “full-time” staff with a pair of approach shoes, guide tennies and a significant discounts. Our rental fleet for approach shoes (rock shoes are Five.Ten) is also all Adidas this year. We recognize that shoe fit and preferences can vary. Although the preference is for guides to wear Adidas/5-ten shoes, we recognize how key they can be to your mountaineering comfort and performance and have no expectation that you wear them if they do not meet your needs. However, if the Adidas/5-ten shoes do not work for you, please do not disparage them in front of clients.

Mammut Mammut provides a certain number of ropes to JHMG each year free of charge in addition to providing a significant discount for additional ropes.

Other Pro deals JHMG has a discount team with Expert Voice, Backcountry, and Fischer. See Aimee to sign up for this program. Other discounts have been arranged with the local climbing stores and many other suppliers/manufacturers/retailers to make gear available to JHMG guides at below wholesale cost. Some forms are available at www.jhmg.com/guides-only/ Remember that these discounts are extended as a courtesy to us. Please don’t abuse the privilege (e.g., buy discounted gear for a friend) or it may be lost to all.

SECTION 9 FOOD

Client food. All guides must be aware of our food policy along with information that is supplied to clients addressing this important topic. JHMG does not provide food to clients for classes or day climbs. For clients on overnight trips, JHMG provides breakfast, dinner, and hot drinks (e.g., coffee, tea and/or cocoa); clients are responsible for bringing their own lunch food, snacks and energy drinks. All trip food preparation is the responsibility of the guides. Guides should determine whether his/her client has food allergies and/or special considerations and plan accordingly. Client dietary information and restrictions can be found on the Trip Roster Client food supplies should be checked when performing gear checks.

Guide food. JHMG provides all meals for guides on overnight climbs. Snack food (chips, pretzels, etc), salsa and cold beverages are available for guides after completion of their climb or class. Food is not provided to clients or guides on day trips or classes.

Food shopping. Despite the proximity to Smith’s, all food shopping will still be done by in-town employees. The reason for this is cost - in town staff are able to shop the sales and end up saving about 25% off food purchases. Last year’s food expenses exceeded $17,000 so we’re not talking chump change.

Please use the food that you find in the food room; if you can’t find an essential item, please contact Jason Dittmer or the office staff with your request well in advance of your departure. If we are unavailable to respond to your request, you may purchase the food item(s) with a JHMG credit card which is available from the office staff. Please use the Smith’s Rewards card for a 10% business discount. Please write your name on the receipt and give it to the office staff. If JHMG’s credit card is not available, you may pay with your own money and request a reimbursement from JHMG. Purchases of gourmet foods or specialty items such as exotic cheeses, bison jerky and smoked salmon, will not be reimbursed. 2018 Food: In an attempt to improve the gastronomic experience of our clients as well as reduce weight and minimize waste, JHMG has teamed up with our own Professional Chef Sarah Pierce, to create a new menu for guides and our Corbet High Camp guests. As this is the first year, Sarah has decided to create a number of different options. Your feedback is absolutely paramount, so please be sure to comment on food in your POST TRIP REPORTS. Please comment on quality, amount, taste, ease of preparation, etc. A couple of things to keep in mind: • This food is FRESH. The meat is SOURCED LOCALLY and is ORGANIC. • The food is prepared by Sarah in a licensed commercial Kitchen in Victor, ID • The food is Vacuum sealed using a commercial vacuum sealer and frozen on -site. After it is frozen, it is transported via cooler to the JHMG office. • The Vacuum bags are 4 mil and are designed to be steamed or boiled. • CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN WHEN PACKING FROZEN BAGS AS THEY CAN PUNCTURE

• IF POSSIBLE, FROZEN ITEMS SHOULD BE PACKED NEXT TO ONE ANOTHER TO TRY AND KEEP THEM COOL. • FROZEN BAGS SHOULD NOT BE LEFT IN THE SUN and must be stored in the Yeti coolers at High Camp. • MEAT DISHES SHOULD BE SERVED FIRST • EACH BAG WILL FEED 2 PEOPLE IF PREPARED AS DIRECTED We should be very proud of the food we are providing, and we should take a moment to share this pride with our customers. We should also do our best within the confines of Corbet High Camp to present our food in a manner which reinforces it’s quality. THERE IS A FOOD LOG NEXT TO THE FREEZER, PLEASE FILL IT OUT ON EACH TRIP. If you have any questions OR comments, etc, please let Jason or Sarah know.

SECTION 10 FIELD PROCEDURE & POLICY

Providing a positive mountain experience for our clients is fundamental to our mission. Food and equipment preparation should have been completed by the time clients arrive. In addition, you should review the Trip Roster for a client’s dietary and medical information before the activity begins. Office staff will make every effort to Email you a trip roster prior to the departure of your trip. Sometimes this is not possible, so be sure to ask office staff for a copy if you need one printed out for you. Review the evacuation procedures as they relate to the specific area being guided. Remember to take a list of emergency phone numbers (laminated card) with your cell phone. Guides are expected to carry their own cell phones when in the field.

Two way radios. As stated, guides are issued radios for the season. Radios are carried on all activities run out of high camp as form of immediate guide to guide communication. Radios will be turned on while guides are on climbs away from high camp. Frequencies are preprogrammed on the radios, for general operations, JHMG will operate on the JHMG channel. With activities in and around high camp, guides will keep on and monitor radios at minimum from 7am to 3pm and longer if discretion dictates. On out of valley trips, guides will carry radios when multiple parties will be working in a similar area. Such examples of this would be multiple groups working around Gannet peak. The radios are also programmed with the Exum channel and three NPS channels. The channel to use first when trying to contact park service rangers is the NPS DIR, this is a simplex channel or in other words line of sight similar to the JHMG channel. The next one to use is the NPS PRI which should be effective in most areas as it utilizes a repeater. The final one to use is the NPS SAR channel. In the event of a rescue that guides are involved in the park may request all to go to this channel, which is also a simplex channel.

DeLorme In Reach two way messengers. For all overnight backcountry trips in the Winds and Beartooths, guides must have an InReach Unit and/or satellite phone on the trip. Make sure you know how to use it. Ask the office staff if you can’t find a unit or Sat phone.

Guide ID. Guides must carry the laminated ID card issued by the BTNF on trips into the Bridger Wilderness: e.g., Gannett Peak, Deep Lake. On trips into the Beartooth Wilderness, e.g. Granite Peak, guides must carry the cover page to the permit issued by the Custer National Forest. The Shoshone Nat’l Forest (e.g., Cirque of the Towers) currently has no requirement for Guide ID.

Start times. Guides should be punctual and prepared for work when meeting clients. Plan to arrive 10-15 minutes prior to your start time. Classes will meet at the office at 8:30 am. Kids Rock classes meet in the office at 9 am unless other arrangements have been made. Grand Teton climbs will meet at 9:00 am at the office, unless previously arranged to meet at Lupine Meadows. Other climbs may meet at various sites at different times. Make sure logistics are wired tight and understood by all concerned parties.

Paperwork. It is the goal of the office staff to make sure that all relevant paperwork is completed before clients arrive. Sometimes this is not possible and we may need help from the guides. Before departing for the field make

sure that clients have completed the office paperwork, i.e. paid the bill, and signed the acknowledgment of risk form, medical questionnaire. (See scheduling calendar on office desk – a “pdr” by a client’s name means they have paid and submitted a signed release – No “pdr” or just “pd” means not yet complete.) You should also receive a Trip Roster. You will receive it via email or it will be available in the office. Double-check that you are aware of any client allergies or medical problems. For day climbs and overnight trips, medical issues are noted in the post trip reports. And for any Illness/Evac/Injury, a separate Illness/Injury/Evac form should be completed in a timely fashion Clients should be thoroughly briefed on the particular day’s activity including directions to the intended site.

As noted earlier, guides are not permitted to transport clients into (or from) Grand Teton National Park. With regard to other venues, we strongly encourage our clients to provide their own transportation to and from the trailhead. If no other alternative is available, a guide may drive clients in their personal vehicle as long as they have received pre- approval from the office. Guides may not request compensation for this service due to federal, state and local requirements.

Guides should be familiar with daily class outcomes and area-specific subjects. Familiarize yourself with area- significant interpretive tidbits, such as geologic facts regarding formation of the Tetons and LNT concerns when hiking to Boulder Town. We have provided you with a quick reference interpretive card. In addition, please familiarize yourself with the materials included at the end of this manual. This is especially important when working in the Park, as our permit requires that we provide such interpretive information.

Guides must be fully prepared for and alert to risk management issues. Risk management is always a top priority. Review the evacuation procedures for each area you are guiding. Remember to take a list of emergency phone numbers with your cell phone. For more on risk management, see Section 12, below.

Do not offer clients extra days while in the field, even if you can get the office a message to that effect. Try to provide clients with suggestions for next steps at JHMG. If they have climbed the Grand Teton perhaps there is another summit they should consider for next year. There is a field on the Post Trip Report for you to comment on client next steps, this is very important for future JHMG follow up so please take the time to fill it out.

It is important that we always interact courteously and helpfully with Park Service personnel. Please inform the office of any encounters -- positive or negative -- with rangers or other field staff, particularly if you had a negative encounter, whether on the mountain or in the front country, e.g., traffic stop, visitor center, entrance station, etc. If you have any interaction at all with the park service while in the field, please note it on the Post Trip Report.

Check In. It is imperative to check in at the end of a trip: leave a message on the office phone or send a text message to JHMG via Google text. For after-hours check in, contact the designated field contact via text or voice mail to their mobile device. In addition, a quick check in during the day, e.g., from a summit, is appreciated, it helps management sleep at night and is particularly helpful when family members or friends of clients are calling the office for more information. Your “official check-in however will be your Post-Trip Report. Which can be filled out

in the office on the Ipad or remotely at www.jhmg.com/guides-only/. Failure to check in may result in authorities being notified a party is overdue and may require assistance (this occurs after a party is 12 to 18 hours overdue). Please do not cause unnecessary worry.

Return from classes by 5:00 pm at the latest. Office personnel will not leave until you return. Upon conclusion of classes and trips, please return all gear in an orderly condition: coil ropes properly, tie shoes together, put shoes away in appropriate bins, and hang helmets, harnesses, etc. Please fill out the Post Trip Report for all day classes and overnight trips. All JHMG gear returned after hours should be placed in the action packer in the classroom designated for this purpose—gear will be de-issued the following morning by office staff.

Check the schedule before leaving for the day. Changes may occur during the day that impact your schedule.

Guides must carry a suitable first aid kit during classes, climbs and hikes. Discounts on Adventure Medical Kits are available via Promotive.com (see Guides Area). First aid kits should contain a SOAP note and a list of phone contacts and emergency procedures. A sample SOAP note and a list of suggested contents for first aid kits is contained in the Appendix.

Guides must carry appropriate personal protective equipment (ppe) in their first aid kits as dictated by first aid standards (bsi), medical control and blood borne pathogen guidelines.

Medical control: JHMG employs the services of Dr. Allan Oram as medical advisor to JHMG. Allan is available to answer questions in a field setting if needed, 406-581-2902. Copies of the Care of injured and ill in remote environments: recommendations and guidelines, are available in the office or at www.jhmg.com/guides-only/ Guides are encouraged to keep a copy of this document on their smart phones.

Guides should familiarize themselves with all JHMG literature, brochures, equipment lists, application forms, acknowledgment of risk, etc. Most of these documents are posted on JHMG’s website.

Guides should familiarize themselves with teaching locations before being assigned work there. These locations currently include Boulder Town, Curtis Canyon and the Hoback Shield. Snow class areas include the Ski Lake vicinity and Hanging Canyon. (See suggested new guide hit list)

Voluntary maintenance and improvement work at class areas and High Camp is requested of guides. Both Curtis Canyon and Hoback Shield experience extensive freeze-thaw cycles, rainfall, and snow avalanches that renew natural rock-fall threat every year. Take a pro-active approach to reducing rock-fall hazard.

Drug and alcohol policy. Guides are asked to agree to and sign the JHMG Drug and Alcohol Policy. The Appendix N outlines the policy. Acknowledging to follow the policy is a condition of employment. This policy is the expectation for all JHMG guides and office staff. It does not apply to clients. If customers invite you to partake in a celebratory drink at high camp or at the trail head, one celebratory drink is allowed. Only responsible alcohol use is allowed in the field. Responsible means limited quantity when at camp – and strictly forbidden during or

immediately prior to technical activities or driving. Guides who are suspected of illegal drug use or alcohol abuse may be asked to enter into a drug/alcohol counseling program or terminate their employment with JHMG. You may not physically transport alcohol or drugs into the backcountry. If clients want to carry a small amount of alcohol to high camp this is at the client’s discretion and their responsibility. Information on drug and alcohol counseling is available from the office. Be aware that in the event of an accident a guide can expect to be drug/alcohol tested.

Post Trip Report: This form must be completed for all activities including classes, day climbs and overnight trips. Completely fill out the Post-Trip Report on the JHMG Ipad or on your computer or Smart Phone by going to www.jhmg.com/guides-only/after your trip. For any trip into the Tetons, Winds or Beartooths that may deviate from a standard itinerary (e.g., alpine rock seminar), please review your itinerary with the office prior to departing. This information is needed for reporting to the Forest Service and in case of an emergency.

Observe all the regulations of land management agencies. All areas have special --and sometimes unique-- rules for guided trips that JHMG must obey. Compliance is critical. If we fail to follow the regulations or our specific permit requirements, we could lose our ability to guide on these lands. These are not judgment calls. A summary of applicable permit and GTNP concession requirements is included in Appendix K & L and is posted on the website’s Guides Page. If you have any questions, please ask the office staff.

Thoughts and guidelines on guiding the Grand Teton with JHMG

Guiding the Grand Teton with Jackson Hole Mountain guides requires a blend of technical skills, judgment and cooperative behavior on the part of the guides. Working well with one another as a team or as we might say -- “having good expedition behavior” --- is essential to providing a positive experience for all our guests at Corbet High Camp and on the Grand Teton, it’s also called being professional.

Corbet High Camp (CHC) is a premier Jackson Hole Mountain Guides venue offering a mountain experience unsurpassed in the U.S. It is important that everything we do in relation to CHC reflects the respect and awe we have for this incredibly special facility.

This paper is not to be viewed as written policy on how to guide the Grand Teton. Rather it is designed to identify common practices and stimulate critical thinking regarding many of the guiding issues encountered on the mountain. No paper can substitute for nor replace the need for situational awareness and judgment skills on the part of the guide(s). Bottom line, we at JHMG rely on the judgment and training of the guide in a given situation to mitigate the hazards encountered while ascending the Grand Teton.

The art of guiding has many components including technical and interpersonal skills. On a broader level, we believe the guide’s success at constructing a positive mountain experience is a defining element of artful guiding. Specifically, we view it as the guide’s responsibility to take the guest’s goal(s) and develop an experience that ultimately creates a positive mountain experience regardless of whether the guest is capable of meeting original said goals based on personal skill and mountain conditions.

Interpersonal skills aside, a day out guiding guests in the mountains is simply a series of obstacles to be navigated or puzzles to be solved. Creating a tour plan for oneself, whether mental or actually written down in the guide’s notebook, is helpful in being prepared for such obstacles. This becomes ever more important in a situation where one is on-sight guiding (this is moot when it comes to guiding the Grand Teton, as all guides will have been on the Grand beforehand). The guide’s task is to seamlessly transition from one obstacle to the next, thereby moving efficiently and ultimately insuring the guest has the best chance of accomplishing the objective. Thinking ahead -- knowing your moves well in advance of the actual move, as a chess master would – is key. The actions you take now should help the process of transition a number of moves ahead.

To start, look at trips up the Grand Teton, and for that matter all trips working out of Corbet High Camp, in a micro and macro scale. The micro would be the daily adventures such as climbing the Grand Teton. The macro would be the whole trip and all the logistics involved. What you do on a macro scale can greatly influence the micro.

The elements of the macro go into basic expedition planning which, as a professional guide is assumed knowledge and this document will not go into this in detail. However, some highlights to consider are: 1. Do the guests have the appropriate gear for the Grand? Gear checks in the office should take care of this but a friendly conversation in advance of departure on the part of the guide never hurts.

2. Food concerns and food stress never help any trip. Be sure proper communication on any special food needs has occurred (vegetarians, gluten intolerance, nut allergies etc.). Do you have hors d’oeuvres, trail food, coffee etc. 3. Medical history/concerns. 4. Do they know how to pack their pack well, is their pack well adjusted, have they carried a pack before?

Ascending to High Camp from the trailhead Consider your group size when leaving the trailhead. With larger groups you may minimize the trail impacts by splitting into smaller groups. Remember that 1 bear spray canister per hiking group is required.

Proper pacing and good hydration/nutrition are key components to success as this allows guests to get to high camp with as minimal stress as possible.

Traditional breaks spots are in logical locations that allow for filling of water bottles and/or give someone a breather at about the right time (every hour or so) and before a change in terrain or angle of slope. Some traditional spots used for the first break are at the junctions of the Bradley/Taggart Lake trail and the Garnet Canyon trail, though some prefer to go slightly further to the “horse piss” spring. Somewhere near the top of the switchbacks at or past the trail junction to Amphitheatre Lake is the next commonly used break area. Some prefer the junction of the Amphitheatre Lake trail, while others prefer to go slightly further so as to afford a view of the valley. A brief water stop is often taken at the start of the boulders in Garnet Canyon knowing that a longer break will be taken in the Meadows. The Meadows is where we often take a slightly longer lunch break. For LNT purposes, strive to break in one of the areas off the trail that puts clients on durable surfaces. The next stop comes at the Petzoldt Caves. One strategy is to tank up on water here and carry only enough water for one, maybe two, more water breaks. The final water break often occurs at the point at which the Corbet High Camp trail diverges from the main trail. As always, guest needs may demand altering plans and providing additional breaks.

The routes we take to Corbet High Camp from the Meadows is somewhat subject to conditions and melt out. As such, guides need to anticipate conditions and plan accordingly. Generally speaking, the Chief Guide and Lead Guide will make the call as to when management of conditions changes. Such management considerations include carrying helmets up and down from camp and determining when use of an ice axe to get to camp is warranted. Once an axe is not needed to get to camp, helmets are not required for use to get to high camp and can be stored at high camp. The winter and summer routes, as they are referred to, have distinct challenges and guiding problems. Generally speaking, we use the winter route when snow conditions are reasonably soft (making for easy step kicking) and the run-outs are clean and fully snow covered. As the season progresses, the increased chance for rock fall off the Middle Teton onto the winter route and the firm and discontinuous snow conditions warrant changing the ascent route to the summer route. Changing ascent line to the summer route may still require snow climbing and associated guiding techniques.

Keep in mind that whenever guests are to use an ice axe, some form of abbreviated snow school may be advised. On the summer route, there are a couple areas requiring added consideration. Irene’s gully is a short section where

consequences of an uncontrolled fall could be dire. Taking time to cut steps across the gully and walking with clients while spotting from below is one management tool; carrying a short section of rope for short roping across is another commonly used technique. The snowfields just above the Petzoldt Caves that lead toward high camp present the next guiding obstacle. The angle of slope is moderate and generally the run out is good, making the slope often very manageable with just an ice axe. Keep in mind, however, that time of day factors in heavily… in the afternoon when snow is soft, it is easy to manage. If descending in the morning, conditions may be firm and warrant crampons and/or the use of a rope.

High Camp operations Whether working a 2, 3 or 4- day Grand Teton trip or for that matter any trip out of CHC, certain things must occur upon arrival at high camp. Thorough guest briefings on high camp operations are essential to a positive guest experience. Some key briefing points are: 1. High camp sanitation: where and where not to pee, discard grey water, rest stop use, hand washing and general preservation of high camp water. (No peeing off of trail leading into camp from the east, no peeing next to tents, try to contain peeing in Boulder field west of the barrels) 2. Hut operations: food storage, communications, water, meals, reading materials and hut 3. Tent use, preservation and general protocol. 4. General high camp risk management. When operating out of Corbett High Camp, the senior guides are ultimately responsible for efficient operations around high camp. With large groups at high camp regardless of whether the clients are in one large group or multiple small groups, a Supervising guide will be assigned. The supervising guide is responsible for smooth high camp and summit operations. (See job description page 11) If no senior guide will be present at HC, the most senior of the guides at camp will be assigned leadership. Some issues that might need coordination: 1. Tent organization and sleeping arrangements. 2. Meal time coordination and assurance that meals have been heated to proper food handling temperatures. 3. Guest grouping for training and GT ascent. 4. G.T. ascent start times. (The need for 3-3:30 for two day, 4-4:30 for 4 day to help mitigate lightning hazard)

When making final preparations for a Grand Teton ascent, it is often a good idea to run a short briefing on what to expect on the ascent and how things will work in the wee hours of the morning. This might include: 1. Review of the ascent route with use of guidebook pictures to help visualize the route. 2. How to dress and prepare for the a.m., both before departure and during the various phases of the ascent. 3. Packing for the ascent and any logistical considerations, especially with 2-day ascents where clients will not be returning to camp. Remember to get guests to grab their used Restops! 4. Proper tent check out process. (Sleeping bags packed in storage bags and left in tents, trash patrol, doors and vents shut on tents, guy lines checked and remember to have guests get their used rest stop bags)

THE UPPER MOUNTAIN Once you leave the comfort of Corbet high camp, you are in “alpine terrain.” Moving through alpine terrain with clients is one of the trickiest environments for mountain guiding. Making things more complicated is the fact that all the great ranges of the world are experiencing changing environments… in the case of the Tetons, regardless of such changes, the mountains are constantly in flux. How one approaches the guiding in the Tetons and other ranges is likely to change and evolve regularly as gravity, climate change and entropy persist. Many practices that are accepted and or traditional methods in guiding the Grand may need to evolve as the terrain changes. It is not to say that what has been done is in error but simply that with time practices may need to evolve. In an attempt to be proactive, JHMG has made some adjustments to it’s recommended guiding practices. This Guides Manual contains the practical highlights of JHMG’s 2014 Internal Risk Management Review. A copy of this document is available upon request.

The hazards in alpine guiding take on many forms and can be subtle. You might say that if one pitched out and belayed every portion of the upper mountain, you would be safer. In doing so, however, one would move far slower and as a result other forms of hazard would present themselves such as lightning storms. In addition to other hazards presenting themselves the facts are, that approaching the climb as mentioned would mean that our clients would probably never accomplish their goal of summiting. To mitigate all forms of hazard to the best of one’s ability and to actually accomplish a client’s goal of summiting, guides must apply a variety of techniques to accomplish the task. One such technique is to scramble un-roped when likelihood of a fall is remote and client skill and experience is high. Coaching and modeling become very important in these instances. Application of such techniques is not without hazard but is part of the process of alpine climbing. Of course when client skill is less and likelihood of a fall is great, a rope or spot or some more aggressive form of guiding become more important. As stated previously, no paper can substitute for nor replace the need for situational awareness and judgment skills on the part of the guide(s). Bottom line, know the terrain and know your client. We at JHMG rely on the judgment and training of the guide in a given situation to mitigate the hazards encountered while ascending the Grand Teton.

Between High Camp to the Lower Saddle How one manages guests at departure from high camp is within guide discretion. Some guides prefer to rig up before departure, i.e., harnesses and helmets on before departure. This can certainly facilitate a quick transition at the fixed line. It is not a requirement to have a helmet on when leaving high camp though it is often more efficient to rig the helmet with the headlamp in the hut before departure. While putting harnesses on in camp is a viable technique, hiking to the fixed line without harnesses on is generally more comfortable for guests and typically makes layering up or down easier.

Getting to the Lower Saddle presents the first major guide challenge in ascending the Grand Teton. There are two primary ways we manage this section depending on snow melt out. Ascending the snow slopes via the broad couloir to the left of the fixed line tends to be how we manage guests early season. The fixed line is the common line of ascent once melted out. Note that the area of the fixed line is notorious for falling rock. Regardless of the route

ascended or descended to or from the saddle, if there is a need to stop for a break or to rig up, consider doing so in a location that is well out of the way of rock fall from the slopes leading to the saddle. When ascending the snow in the a.m., short roping the guests and utilizing crampons and axes is generally necessary. Typically there will be pronounced steps in the snow to the saddle, but firm if not icy conditions in the a.m. warrant added security. When ascending the fixed line, a supplemental belay is advised for most guests. When descending these sections, utilizing belayed glissades on the snow is often the most efficient way to descend that also gives adequate security especially when wearing mountain boots. On those years when we utilize crampons on approach shoes for the snow slopes alone, glissading may be too insecure and warrant down climbing guests utilizing short roping / pitching techniques. Utilizing a belay when descending the fixed line is often imperative due to security concerns and fatigue. It is often most expeditious and helps to eliminate the crowding if guests are lowered. As always, this is up to guide discretion. Remember to keep client’s interests and objectives in mind… often storms move through rapidly in the morning. It may be reasonable to hold up somewhere for a while to let weather pass, resuming the climb once the weather has passed. Remember to keep client’s interests and objectives in mind.

Lower Saddle to the Briggs Slab Once on the saddle, helmet removal for the hike to the Black Dike is reasonable if the guide so chooses, though there may be little advantage in doing so. In any event, helmets should be on from the Black Dike up.

Travel between the Black Dike and the Brigg’s Slab/Eye of the Needle area generally does not require the use of a rope. Careful route finding usually allows one to move through this area with little probability and low consequence of a fall. The management of this terrain is up to guide discretion but it is conceivable that certain guests under certain conditions might need a rope in this section. Again, know your clients and if you are unsure, ask them about their comfort level

The Briggs Slab/Eye of the Needle is the first real obstacle in route to the Upper Saddle from the Lower Saddle. There are a number of route options in this area depending on preference and or bottlenecks from other parties. While snow is prevalent on the Grand in early season, snow climbing up snow couloirs to the west of the Briggs slab that ultimately joins the Idaho Express may be the best route. Such routes are best managed via short roping and pitching on snow. The most common route after melt out is the Briggs Slab, which does require a belay for clients. Some common management tools are rigging clients in short pitch mode. This sets one up well, especially if in smaller numbers, for continuing roped to the Black Rock Chimneys. In groups of 3 guests, it can often be safer to short pitch clients over the Briggs Slab area and then take the rope off until the Black Rock Chimney. Good route finding and spotting work well as having clients roped together in this area can be more of a hindrance than help in this ratio. Other options include short pitches just to the skiers left of the Briggs Slab or the Eye of the Needle. The Eye of the Needle does requires careful route finding as there are a few ways to work through the area and it does have exposure that requires elevated security for clients, especially at the final step across. Short roping or setting a hand line are some options for this spot. Do keep alert to guide security in this area. Verglas may form on the Briggs Slab; a fall on the Briggs Slab could be devastating. Consider your options for ascent and descent. Route finding

your way around hazards on the ascent is possible for the guide in lieu of a belay. Utilizing terrain features and horns for a hand line on descent is common, especially on the Briggs Slab. Regardless of the approach, client safety and security is closely related to guide security.

Briggs Slab to the Upper Saddle The Briggs Slab to the Upper Exum is one area where we have re-evaluated some of our recommendations. Moving above the Briggs Slab requires some thought and decision-making. Early to mid-season, ascent via the Black Rock Chimney is the route of choice. Traditionally, this is an area that many guides will navigate un-roped. Where the climbing is not hard, it presents an obstacle that if clients fall off of in an awkward fashion, they may project off of with devastating results. We feel this is an area that for the most part is best done with some form of roped travel. With strong clients in a low ratio situation, this can be short roped. In a larger ratio group or with more challenged clients, short pitching may be advised. As full melt out occurs, the Mosh Pit can be a viable alternative to the Black Rock Chimney. While careful route finding can mitigate most if not all the hazards in a small group. This route does have obstacles that though the likelihood of a fall is low, a fall would have devastating results if clients were un- roped. The drawback to the Mosh Pit route is the loose nature of the route and the fact that rock fall may affect other climbers in the area leading to the Briggs slab. Short roping guests in the Black Rock Chimney is common; alternatively, it is not unheard of to spot and coach through this section. The skill level of the majority of our guests most often requires a rope for security in the Black Rock Chimney. The Mosh Pit is similar in management though this route seems to be more expeditious in dry conditions. A majority of this route is easily done without a rope, though there are a few sections where short roping is often appropriate.

Briggs Slab to Upper Exum From the top of the Briggs Slab or after the step across on the Needles Eye, there are a couple of options for approaching the Upper Exum route. The small col just above the Briggs slab is the most common route but the next small col up hill and towards the Black Rock Chimney is also used. Both routes are typically cairned.

In early season, both routes will require crossing of short but often very firm snow slopes in route to Wall Street. In dry conditions, guests can be short roped from the top of the Briggs Slab to the step across at the end of Wall Street. In early season conditions where snow slopes are crossed, it may be necessary to pitch out some of the firm snow sections.

The upper Exum Ridge route The appropriate use of the upper Exum route on the Grand Teton depends on a number of factors the first and most important being permit considerations. JHMG is permitted for the upper Exum route but use of this route is limited to our 3 and 4-day Grand Teton ascent programs only, no exceptions. The second factor for use of the upper Exum relates to client skill and ratios. The climbing on the Exum is quite a bit easier than that of the PG though the upper Exum is more committing. Once on the ridge, a party is pretty well committed to making it as far as the top of the V-pitch moving west towards the Dark Side. At this point parties have an option to bail out to the rappels or continue to the summit via the Dark Side and The Boulder Problem in the Sky. Ratios do factor heavily into the

equation, as JHMG does not allow guests to belay other guests unsupervised. At 2:1, a party can move efficiently up the Exum blending both short roping and short pitching tactics. Adding a third drastically changes the techniques for effectively guiding at this ratio, often resulting in slower movement. If embarking upon the Upper Exum in a 3:1 ratio, the use of fixed belays and pitched climbing may be necessary to effectively manage such a ratio. If weather is questionable, it may be prudent to continue to the PG route via the upper saddle, as this allows one to watch the weather for a greater period of time before committing to the technical climbing. Where it is possible to guide the Exum with a 40 meter rope in a 2:1 ratio, one 60 meter or two 40 meter ropes will be necessary to get down the rappels.

As with all routes, guides must be intimately aware of the route and its features. On a climb such as the Exum, which is featured in Fifty Classic Climbs, it is especially important to know the classic and historic route features. Wall Street, The Step Across, The Golden Stair Case, The Wind Tunnel, The Friction Pitch, The V-Pitch, The Dark Side and The Boulder Problem In the Sky are some of the most well-known landmarks.

The Pownal / Gilkey Route The Pownall/Gilkey route is most often done in 3 pitches. Pitch one ends at the big ledge; pitch two ends on the ledge a short ways above the aider section and the third pitch at the top of the route. This strategy places the guides in the most advantageous positions to see and hear guests on the route. With experienced guests, it is not unheard of to push the PG in two longer pitches, especially when utilizing a 60-meter rope with one client.

Managing the Pownall/Gilkey route takes a bit of planning and forethought. Clearly the biggest consideration when deciding on equipment and strategy is the number of guests and whether the parties will be team guided by multiple guides. In groups with multiple clients, regardless of strategy, the use of 35-meter sections of rope can be handy, as clients can be asked to carry such amounts of rope without overburdening them. In small groups, 60-meter ropes can give one more options. If using shorter sections of rope (40 meter), the ropes will not reach from the staging spot at the beginning of the route. In this case, the first real pitch will need to begin just out from the staging spot on the ledge at the nook with some boulders. Guests can be anchored at this point via a rope wrap around the rock and the ropes will reach to a good anchor point on the big PG ledge at the end of pitch 1. There are a number of ways to manage guests in route, from caterpillar style to parallel rope technique, to a blend of techniques; guides must have fluency with all methods. If climbing at a 3:1 ratio, one technique that can work well is to start in parallel rope technique fashion, being sure you have an extra auto-blocking device. The first two climbers will climb together in parallel rope fashion. The first of the two climbers trails a rope to the third climber and back clips as they climb. Once this individual reaches the belay, the rope they are trailing can then be put on to the second auto blocking device and allow for the third person to climb while the second person to climb finishes up. On the aider pitch, if this style is utilized, it is advised that the guide only clip the lead line to the protection for guide security, as this will make the pitch much easier for guests to manage if they do not have to unclip and or back-clip. If team guiding, please remember that having a hard cam on the rope for the second guide in sliding middleman fashion is only appropriate if there is absolutely no chance the guide could fall on a tensioned rope, i.e., client falls pulling guide

off. If this were to happen, there is a distinct possibility the rope would get cut. A better course of action would be to cow’s tail in to the rope.

Top of the PG, to the summit and back down to the rappels From the top of the PG, the guide has two options for travel to the summit: the first is to traverse to the Sargent’s Chimneys; Seargent’s Chimney is the other area and practice that we examined in 2014. Some guides are in the habit of un-roping clients with the feeling that it is faster to move un-roped and the terrain to move over is secure, low likely-hood and low consequence terrain. It is worth noting that there are a number of obstacles that although they might not have mortal consequences, if someone were to fall off of, would likely produce a serious injury in an area we might consider a vulnerable zone since rescue and assistance from this high on the mountain would be far more difficult. We feel that in most situations, keeping clients roped is the prescribed method. The margin of safety seems higher and in the end, the risk versus reward quotient might suggest little gain from taking the rope off.

The second option is to climb straight up to the Exum Ridge finish via the the “Darkside” and the top of the “V-slot” and “Boulder problem in the sky.” Which way to proceed tends to be subject to the guide’s personal preference, though the Sargent’s Chimney route allows guides to cache some of their ropes while headed to the summit and gives guests an opportunity to preview the descent route. The drawback to the Chimneys is that when there is a high amount of activity on the mountain, there can be some serious bottlenecks. Finishing via the Exum Ridge has the advantage that on cold days, one gets to the sun sooner. The climbing on this finish is slightly harder than that of the Sargent’s Chimneys but affords some great views! Regardless of the route taken to the summit, it is most often prudent to have guests on a rope and short roped short or pitched for the duration of the time between the top of the PG to the summit and down to the rappels. Un-roping guests, though not unheard of, should be the exception rather than the norm. Also keep in mind that when the ratio bumps to 3:1, short roping (hand belays) become much less viable and essentially it becomes a process of carrying the rope from one short pitch to the next. For certain guests it might be appropriate to un-rope, but as a general premise it is best to be roped.

When descending off the summit, short roping/pitching guests is ever more important. The guide is free to manage the terrain as they see fit, but it is often more energy and time efficient to arrange quick lowers on terrain belays through some of the sections that are often down climbed in the Sargent’s Chimney.

The Rappels Management of the rappels off the Grand Teton requires a bit of thought and anticipation by the guides. If the ratios are low, the mountain uncrowded and the weather good, the rappels seem rather mellow and uneventful. As the ratios grow, number of parties’ increase and weather grows more questionable; the rappels require greater attention and anticipation. In some cases where the unguided public is stacked up at the rappel, it may be advantageous to see if the parties in front of you would be open to your jumping in, rigging JHMG ropes, sending them in the perceived order that they arrived at the rappels down JHMG ropes so as to accelerate your descent.

It is customary at JHMG to allow clients to do a belayed rappel. Clearly this is up to guide discretion and many factors might suggest a different course of action, such as weather, client issues and equipment considerations. If it

is super windy, the guide needs to consider how to get the rope down without them blowing sideways. A few options for dealing with this are to have one of the clients be lowered on what will become the rappel strand, having them stay tied in, and thereby keeping the rope from blowing wildly out of control. Belay all subsequent guests on the second rope while rappelling on the single strand the first guest is tied to. The other option in windy conditions is to pre-rig all your guests with rappel extensions and then saddle bag the ropes down the rappel. There are good reasons for both techniques. Keep in mind that if any issues occur, the guide is better off above the guests. If rappels are to be managed by the guide from above, a releasable rappel system is advised whenever possible. Tying rocks to the end of the ropes and throwing them off is not advised ☺. Especially in windy conditions, but to a certain extent all conditions, the use of rappel extensions can help eliminate the possibility of hair or clothing getting caught in the rappel system. JHMG feels that when possible, belayed and or pre-rigged rappels on the Grand Teton enhance the guest experience through increased involvement on the part of the guest.

The two initial management points to consider at the start of the rappels are: 1) how best to manage getting the clients to the rappel station while also having good guide security 2) how best to be sure no loose rocks are knocked off when traversing to the rappel. In larger groups, the guides may opt to station folks in the alcove before the traverse to the rappels. In smaller groups, say 2:1, it may be advantageous to forgo staging in the alcove and short pitch guests over to either of the rappel stations. As to which rappel station to use, most opt for the sling rappel, as it is generally easier to rig guests into the rappel, there is less chance of knocking rocks off and the rappel works well with most available rope lengths. The bolt anchor is a nice option especially if there is traffic jams at the rappels, though this rappel does require ropes of at least 35 meters in length (HC outfitted with 40m ropes). When team guiding the rappels, guides must decide where best to station themselves to maximize safety and efficiency. Clearly one guide will need to remain at the rap station to manage guests getting into the rappels. The second guide may choose to remain in the alcove to assist guests getting tied into the belay line. The other option is to have the guide rappel down first to insure rappel lines are in the proper position, provide fireman belays for guests, and manage guests getting to the proper landing spot and direct guests to appropriate safe zones. It is reasonable and not uncommon to throw a belay line to a guest in the alcove and visually check their tie in from the rappel station, before bringing them into the rappel station. This of course is a judgment call and may not be appropriate for all guests. Discussed below are two possible rappel scenarios and their management. The discussion is designed to give guides some ideas on how to be as efficient as possible. These scenarios can also be tweaked and modified to account for ratios and scenarios not discussed. Keep in mind that the platform for discussion is based on increased involvement with guests through rappelling.

In managing a 3:1 ratio, first station the guests in the alcove. Using one of the ropes, tie one guest into each end. Taking the second rope over to the rappel and pulling a bight of rope over from the rope attached to the guests, rig the unused rope in a releasable fashion while also tying off the end. While the rope is unloaded, consider bringing all the guests’ rappel devices and locking carabiners over to rig them to the rappel rope before bringing the guests over to the rappel station. Throw the rope as cleanly as possible and then belay the first guest over to the rappel, clipping them into the anchor with the rope. Then bring the second guest over, clipping them directly to the pre-rigged rappel

and send them down the rappel while on belay. Once they are down, retrieve the rope and throw the rope to the third guest in the alcove, watching and checking their tie in. When satisfied, belay them over to the anchor and clip them in and or just put them into the pre-rigged rappel device foregoing clip in. Before sending the final guest down, retrieve the other end of the rope and while keeping the rappel line rigged in releasable fashion, tie the retrieved end and the end of the rappel line together through the rappel anchor. Continue the descending process, sending the final person down, un-rig the releasable system, rig your own rappel, descend to the clients and retrieve your ropes.

In managing a 4:1 ratio with a team of two guides, the guides will likely arrive at the rappels each with two guests in short roping mode. The guides will first rig the clients with rappel extensions, then one of the guides will collect all the guests rappel devices as well as a free rope. The guide then traverses to one of the rappel anchors, being sure the guests connected to the rope are secure in the alcove. The guide will then clip to the anchor with some form of personal anchoring system so they can free up the rope end that the guests are short roped on. The next step is to thread the anchor with one of the ropes and then connect both rappel ropes. The managing guide will then connect all the guest rappel devices to the ropes, then connect themselves to the rappel ropes complete with a hands free back (autoblock). The guide will then belay the 2 guests that they were connected to, over to the anchor in short pitching mode. Once to the anchor the guide will immediately connect them to the pre-rigged rappel devices with their extensions, detach them from the belay line, then throw the ropes. The guide will then rappel down, taking care of any rope issues in the process. Once down, the guide will employ a fireman’s belay back up to the guests while the other guide then traverses to the anchor to give further assistance to the pre-rigged guests. The guide on the ground will then take on the responsibilities already mentioned of providing a fireman’s belay, managing guests getting to the proper landing spot and directing guests to appropriate safe zones, while the guide above belays the final 2 clients into the anchor and attaches them to their rappel devices and sends them down.

See appendix Q for classic Alpine Transitions as taught by the AMGA

Descent from the upper to lower saddle Once down, the guides will set their sights on reversing the route of ascent in an appropriate and or similar fashion to the ascent, which includes employing a rope for security at similar points. As mentioned, it is often easier and more energy efficient for the guests if they are lowered at certain technical spots such as the Briggs slab, but this is up to guide discretion. Use of the Blackrock Chimney or the Mosh Pit is up to guide discretion as per the ascent. Special attention to guest’s energy level must be considered when descending and as such, roped travel may be ever more necessary.

Descending from the lower saddle Strategies for descending from the lower saddle are very much seasonal in nature. In early season it is common to descend snow down the broad couloir lookers left of the fixed line area. Some form of roped travel is often advised in this area as the slope starts off quite steep and moats often form somewhere around mid-slope. The use of lowers/glissades may be appropriate otherwise descending the up track while short roping is advised. If descending

the up track, it is often more secure for all involved to have crampons on. Again, guide discretion in which guest energy level and likelihood versus consequence is considered is essential.

Once the snow disappears and the fixed line melts out, descending from the lower saddle is best done via the fixed line. It is not uncommon to experience bottlenecks at the fixed line on descent. Given the rock fall history in the area of the fixed line and the fatigue guests may be experiencing, lowering is not a bad option as it moves folks through this area more rapidly. Once completely free of rock fall from the saddle, it is appropriate to remove harnesses and helmets. Consider very carefully where it is appropriate to remove helmets and give the saddle a wide berth before considering a break.

Descending from the cache boulder or high camp Strategies for descending from the cache boulder and or high camp are largely dependent upon mountain conditions. When descending means crossing and or descending snow, great thought and care must be given to the route and techniques used in the descent. Early season conditions beg the question of whether to go the winter or summer routes. Though direct, the winter route will often complicate risk management on the descent. When the snowpack is plentiful and the descent routes options continuous with uninterrupted snow and no rock obstacles, the winter route can be a great option. As early season progresses and snowpack becomes more transitional in nature, route changes will likely be in order. Boulders, cliffs, moats and other poor run-outs features are examples of obstacles that have presented serious issues in the past while on descent. Opting for the summer route in the transitional period is preferred as the snow slopes are lower in angle and have far less risk management issues on descent than that of the winter route.

The 2-day ascent itinerary raises one more situation worth addressing. In dry conditions when the summer route is completely open, it is customary for guides to leave guests at the cache boulder while the guides ascend to high camp with the climbing gear. It is also a common practice to allow guests to start hiking down from this point after a bit of coaching from the guides as to where to go. It is important to remember that this practice is only done if the guides feel confident that conditions are appropriate and clients will not encounter difficulties. If there is any chance or likelihood that guests might inadvertently cross snow or encounter other difficulties, the guides should have the guests stay put at the cache boulder until the guides complete the tasks at high camp and return to the guests at the cache boulder to escort them out.

In conclusion, guides should remember that though the majority of the risk management issues are over once the Meadows has been reached, it is still the policy of Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, especially in consideration of bear spray precautions, to escort our guests to their vehicles at Lupine meadows trail head.

SECTION 11 CORBET HIGH CAMP PROTOCOL

Corbet High Camp is the premier venue at JHMG. Very few places in the United States are capable of offering such services to clients. It is imperative that this camp be respected and managed with this in mind. Guest experience at high camp is of the utmost importance! In addition to the information below, guides are expected to ensure that High Camp looks clean, organized and inviting.

Due to its unique location and heavy use, Corbet High Camp has special considerations in addition to the usual policies. Excellent cooperation and communication among all occupants, clients and guides is required to live efficiently and comfortably at high camp. Guests must be given an orientation that covers relevant risk management issues, sanitation and proper care of the High Camp area.

High Camp Capacity. The Park enforces a nightly limit of 16 occupants, regardless of who they are. Guides should accompany clients both walking up to and descending from High Camp. Allowing clients to descend from high camp on their own or turning clients loose at the Platforms is not an acceptable practice at JHMG. It is both prudent and polite to accompany clients to the parking lot. Given the prevalence of grizzly bears and frequent sightings in Lupine Meadows and on the Garnet Canyon trail, guides are now required to carry bear spray and hike in tightly spaced groups with clients when traveling to—and from--high camp, and other locations within Grand Teton National Park, including Boulder Town.

The metal storage box needs to be handled with care; if the lid-support arm and its wooden lock are not used properly the lid could slam down with dire results. The box should be kept clean and neat. Clients should not be dealing with the box. Nonetheless, demonstrate proper use in the unlikely event a client must get into the box.

Care and maintenance of the hut and tents is ongoing and should be discussed with the clients so that they can pitch in. High winds must always be anticipated and prepared for. Experience has shown that failure to bombproof at High Camp may result in tents, bags, pads, clothing items, dishes, etc. blowing away and being lost or destroyed. Even the main hut has been lifted into the air! Tents are particularly susceptible to wind damage; the fabric will flap and abrade against any nearby rock, even in relatively light winds. Be very thorough with tie downs and protection against abrasion. Cushion floors whenever possible to prevent rock damage.

When not occupied, tents must be weighted down with lots of gear and sometimes with large rocks set upon old pads (not the nice thick sleeping pads) in order to protect tent fabric. Make sure that clients understand that their gear always needs to be weighted down or put in tents with closed doors.

All tents must be left clean and ready for the next group. Sleeping bags should be stored in fabric bags in either the tents or metal box. No sleeping bags in the hut. The guide is ultimately responsible to be sure guests clean out and prepare the tents for the next set of guests. Only one thick pad per guest please.

Bouldering in the High Camp area is as attractive as the landings are lousy. Bouldering is strongly discouraged. If you do choose to climb, top roping is strongly recommended for both clients and guides.

Respect the needs of other guests and guides who are often on different schedules. Those getting up very early in the morning need peace and quiet the evening before. Mealtimes are often crowded and require that due consideration be shown to all. Simple common courtesy is the guideline. To this end, guides are expected to work together for the common goal of proper client care.

Remember to practice LNT: NO loud or offensive music at High Camp!

In large groups, such as the 10 person 4-day GT trips, guides are expected to work together to form appropriate group splits. Senior guides are responsible for ensuring proper high camp procedure. Guides should consider remaining with the same clients throughout to promote continuity in the groups unless judgment suggests a different course of action.

Guests are responsible for their own cup, bowl and spoon. Food preparation at high camp is limited to boiling water and steaming pre-prepared food. You must wash your hands prior to handling any food. A designated hand washing station is available at Corbet High Camp. Impeccable hygiene is important. Guests should be provided with a cold water wash station, a warm water rinse and a diluted bleach rinse at least once a day as a means to wash their cup, bow and eating utensils.

The water supply comes from Teepee Glacier and flows through the moraine on which High Camp sits. During orientation, Guests should be informed as to the unverified purity of this water source and be presented the option to treat water. JHMG provides guides Potable Aqua for this purpose.

Gray water from kitchen activities must be disposed of away from the water source and upstream drainage. Solid food should be stored and disposed of properly, particularly to deter rodent activity. Boots, hats and other items of clothing or gear that have been exposed to perspiration should be stored inside tents (not vestibule) to prevent damage by marmots.

The recommended/designated areas for urination should be pointed out to guests. The extensive talus/boulder field west of camp can accommodate our needs with proper care. Urination is not permitted on the trail entering camp, below camp boulder, near tents or any area that might affect the water source or olfactory senses. Encouraging dispersed urination habits is essential.

Guides and guests should wash hands after visiting the toilet, before and after eating. Soap, anti-bacterial hand wash and water are available at all times.

All guests and guides are expected to carry down their own solid waste. Rest Stop bags are supplied by JHMG in quantities sufficient for the length of the trip. Extra bags are kept at High Camp for emergencies. All guides should familiarize themselves with the Rest Stop bag and its efficient use. Two containers and ersatz toilet seats are situated

west of camp behind large boulders. Guides should demonstrate how to use the toilet system in addition to explaining its use. Please note that guests and guides must place their names on the used bags and store them in the Rubbermaid container next to the storage box. The container ensures the bags won’t be tampered with by rodents. Bags may be disposed of at the trailhead. Hand wash must be used after all visits to the latrine and is supplied in the hut. Guides forgetting to properly manage the bags will be responsible for providing cold beverages for the staff.

At the conclusion of a trip, guides are expected to bring down all trash as well as a reasonably complete inventory of food and equipment. We all recognize that weather and other unpredictable factors may impede the guide’s ability to do an inventory. New this year, a hand scale and burlap sack will be up a CHC. Guides will need to consolidate, weigh and record trash that is carried off the mountain in the log provided at high camp.

Ensure that all Mountain Hardwear summit packs used by guests on your climb have been returned and accounted for.

Off-route members of the unguided public often wander through High Camp. Redirect them politely to the moraine. There is no legal camping for the public in or around High Camp.

National Park Service rangers and sanitation officers regularly inspect High Camp, noting in our evaluation when any items, e.g., hand sanitizer bottles, are left out. Consistently using proper camping practices and being courteous will prevent problems. All items must be put away at High Camp when away from camp. No small bottles or personal items of any nature may be left out as the wind may blow and critters may take items. Practice LNT and tight camping at all times.

Violations of our permit are extremely serious, i.e., do not violate our permit. JHMG’s ability to guide the public in GTNP is entirely dependent on JHMG’s continued LNT and guiding excellence.

All trips go to High Camp with a specific timetable. Do not stay over extra days, but also do not “encourage” early returns. Stay-overs will not only result in problems at High Camp; they also cause chaos with the work schedule. On 4-day GT climbs, day 4 should be used as a summit day if day 3 is shut down due to weather or other reasons. Similarly, remember that if you summited on day 3, climbing around camp in the morning before descending in the afternoon may be a great option.

All mountain trips involve a number of unpredictable factors. Any number of events can result in a situation whereby a client wants to/needs to depart from the group and descend earlier than scheduled. Clients should not go down from High Camp without being accompanied by staff.

SECTION 12 RISK MANAGEMENT

Approach and Considerations JHMG is proud of its excellent risk management history, which reflects the priority we place on risk management, in tandem with our strong guiding skills. Guides should approach all aspects of mountaineering, including those of the most elementary nature, in a cautious and conservative manner. Always consider the weaknesses of clients and of guides and the potential for, and consequences of, the worst-case scenario. The guide is primarily and ultimately responsible for managing the risk for the party.

Burnout can be a factor in the summer. Notwithstanding your fatigue with the same question you’ve answered umpteen times this summer, remember to remain as helpful and positive as possible in all situations. Guides should take an active role in helping our guests feel comfortable and reasonably at ease. Simple reminders about proper hydration and nutrition, and setting a proper pace contribute to that comfort. Guides need to be particularly alert to weaker clients and avoid leaving them behind. Remember: we are trying to provide a positive, fun and rewarding experience for all.

Guides should not overlook their personal well-being. Guide security should always be considered. Realize that not only are injuries unfortunate for any individual, incapacitated guides leave clients vulnerable. We believe the most effective skill for managing risk is clear, objective thinking based on accumulated knowledge and experience. We rely on our guides’ mastery of this skill and their ability to instill this skill and conservative approach in their clients.

When considering risk management of clients, ask: “If they fall, what will happen?” rather than “Will they fall?” Manage the “What if” scenario rather than assuming/trusting/hoping it won’t happen. Decisions should be made with consideration of the “likelihood versus consequence” matrix, as well as a “risk versus reward” consideration.

JHMG’s Risk Management Plan for Teton climbs is on file with the GTNP. The RMP is updated regularly, and is included in the Manual in the Appendix H.

Specific Procedures • Know and follow helmet policy! • Guides carry first aid kits on all JHMG activities. Suggestions for contents of kits are listed in Appendix

Helmet Policy: Helmets must be worn by clients during all climbs and classes, including snow schools and whenever ice axes are used in climbing-related scenarios. Additionally, helmets should be carried up to and descending from high camp in early season and worn by clients when using ice axes. Once the use of an ice axe is no longer necessary to get to High Camp, helmets may be stored at HC for availability for all climbs above HC. The guide may choose to require helmets in any other additional circumstance whenever he/she deems it necessary; any client unwilling to accept the guide’s decision may not be allowed to participate.

Guides must also wear UIAA approved helmets on technical terrain, where risk of rock or ice fall is present and/or where ropes/gear are employed (e.g., top ropes), excepting certain glacier travel where likelihood of head injury is minimal. Guides should wear helmets• In addition,in all situations guides are whereprovided client with SOAP/evacuation helmet use is required.and close call report forms and are expected to have a pencil and forms in their first aid kits. • Any accident or near miss/close call occurring on a JHMG trip must be brought to the attention of the office staff as soon as possible. Additionally, guides must report the accident/near miss in the Post Trip report. These reports assist all of us in identifying potentially dangerous conditions or practices and notifying others. They might also be used in more in-depth permitting agency investigations. • Accident protocol for different permit areas can vary. Because of our small group size we cannot usually rely on our own manpower for evacuations.

Emergency Response Guidelines For specifics on emergency procedures, please refer to the Emergency Procedure Guidelines contained in Appendix C. In addition, all injuries and near misses must be reported in the Post Trip report and a Injury/illness/evac Report must be completed. In short, in the event of an accident involving JHMG people, care of the injured/sick individual(s) and other members of your climbing party are your first priority. Second, develop an evacuation plan, if on the Grand Teton, use your radio to call a fellow JHMG guide on the mountain and request assistance. Consider urgency, conditions, terrain and available resources necessary to carry out plan. (see Appendix C) Third, notify JHMG office or personnel of the situation.

If you are out-of-valley or are unable to make a phone call or send text message due to lack of cell coverage, and urgent help is needed, activate the DeLorme InReach. After notifying JHMG personnel, contact GTNP rangers if in the park, or county sheriff if not in GTNP.

At this time one satellite phone will be stationed at high camp. In addition, Guides will be issued radios for On Mountain Communication (See Appendix N.) Guides are expected to have cell phones available on Teton climbs and classes. For all out-of-valley trips guides are expected to carry a personal cell phone and a DeLorme InReach (available in office) or a satellite phone. Emergency phone numbers are printed on a laminated card available from the office or see Appendix B. A list of emergency phone numbers should be in every guide’s first aid kit or otherwise readily accessible.

Serious Injury/Fatality Protocols 1. Field Concerns • Initiate first aid and evacuation procedures as per Appendix D, JHMG Emergency Response Guidelines.

Thereafter, in the event of a serious injury or fatality, and if feasible: • Describe, diagram and photograph the accident scene. • Photograph the body before it is moved. If possible, do not move the body until law enforcement personnel are present. • Photograph and preserve injury causing mechanisms or equipment failures. Ideally photograph the scene; weather conditions, the mechanisms that caused injury. • Obtain statements from those present at the scene. These should be strictly factual, avoiding opinions and judgmental statements. • Do not assume that some fact or item is unimportant. Record it. • Try to summarize the scenario of before the accident, the accident itself and after the accident. Try to capture the atmosphere or “feeling” of those involved in the accident scene. Try to reconstruct the victim’s emotional status preceding the accident, recording anything unusual or out of the ordinary. • Accurately describe the appearance and condition of the victim. Preserve the scene. • Cover the victim. Protect the body.

Clearly, there may be situations where there simply aren’t enough hands to provide medical care and review the scene. Remember, managing risk for and maintaining the well-being of yourself and your clients is foremost.

2. Establishing Death If a body cannot be recovered, the statements of witnesses will usually suffice to establish death. If the body is available the coroner or a licensed physician is necessary to officially establish death.

Law enforcement agencies have a legal interest in the body and the scene of the death to determine the cause of death, to ensure that no crimes have been committed, to ensure there is no threat of epidemic or similar public health hazard and to make certain the body is disposed of properly. It is the responsibility of the guide to preserve the scene and the body until it is viewed by law enforcement personnel.

3. Emotional Maintenance of the Group If you are guiding a group, maintain the health and safety of the group. JHMG will be sending in support personnel ASAP. Often, keeping people active with simple tasks is helpful. Allow people to verbalize their feelings and emotions. Open communication among all involved is vital to avoid the growth and harboring of misplaced suspicions, ill will, or feeling of guilt. It is important to note, however, that any critique of cause, blame or performance can produce incriminating comments, which could later be used in court. There is a need to minister to those involved in the incident, but this should be tempered with a realistic assessment of the legal effects of what might be said in an emotion charged atmosphere. Statements made in the field, even comments among guides and clients, may well become evidence in a court case.

4. Press Release from the Field – NOT AUTHORIZED A guide is not authorized to discuss or release information concerning a serious incident to the news media. If a guide is contacted by the news media he or she should refer all questions to the office.

5. Evacuate group – if a serious injury or fatality has occurred, it will typically be appropriate to evacuate any remaining clients and staff. The office will work with you to facilitate this as needed. Be alert to your own needs following this event.

SECTION 13 CLASS GUIDELINES

Pre-class: Guides should arrive at the office at least 10 minutes early in order to pull gear and review the assignment (normal class meeting time is 8:30 AM at the office, 9 AM for Kids Rock)

Equipment: For all classes, JHMG provides ropes, harnesses, helmets, crampons and ice axes. Clients are responsible for rock shoes, which they can rent from JHMG. Contact office staff for current rental prices. Office Staff will do their best to help clients with rental items by filling out the JHMG Personal Rental Gear Checkout Form on the office Ipad. Sometimes this will not be possible. Please familiarize yourself with this process so you can assist in the event we are shorthanded.

Daily classes: Guides should get a feel for the goals of the clients in the various classes to determine the specific outcomes of each class. If clients are running through the full program, i.e.; basic, intermediate and Grand climb, and guides are training the clients throughout then they are free to determine the flow of the two days of instruction. If not, guides should stick to the basic outline and flow. If clients are merely attending a basic as a part of their vacation, then guides should dwell more strongly on the experiential aspects of the class.

All classes should begin with some level of introduction which includes such subjects as personal introductions, mountaineering philosophy (efficiency), pacing/rhythmic breathing, what they will learn, and risk management concerns. At the end of the day, a final summary of the class is in order.

In addition, guides should introduce interpretive information wherever appropriate. For example, Boulder Town offers an excellent opportunity to discuss glaciers and the topography of Jackson Hole. Curtis Canyon also offers great views of the valley with many examples of how glaciers have sculpted the mountains and valley floor.

Basic school: “A spirited introduction to climbing techniques, rope work and safety.” Outcome: The bottom line is that clients should return from all classes having had a fun time, climbed a lot and experienced a solid introduction to technical climbing skills. Skills to be taught: • General crag/mountaineering risk management • Bouldering/ movement on rock • Knots, rope handling and coiling (figure eight series, stacking and butterfly coil). • Standard three point safety check system: 1. Harness on properly (buckles double backed). 2. Tied in with proper knot through proper tie in points. 3. Anchored, on belay or on the ground. • Yo-yo top rope belays with backups plus signals • Ensure fluency with JHMG climbing signals (PSCSS) • Intro. rappels

• Time permitting, a short intro. multi pitch climb

General flow The flow outlined is meant to be a guideline and should not be considered the only way to organize this or any other class. Begin classes by addressing various client care issues: what are their goals, do they have the right clothing, water and food. While hiking to the crag, discuss pacing, rest step and general thoughts on travel in and around the mountains.

Once you reach the crag, make sure clients understand how to adjust and wear helmets. Please set parameters for safe areas, where helmets are not required, for clients to hang out when not engaged in activities. Have one guide set up some top ropes while another talks about bouldering and movement on rock. Careful spotting and specific risk management guidelines are continuous. If it is a class with one guide, they might quickly set up some TR’s and then go into the bouldering.

Once some time has been spent getting clients on the rock you can take a quick water break and have them get the gear out in preparation for the technical training. Then get the ropes out and talk briefly about ropes, their design and care. This leads into rope coiling. Use the butterfly coil for the first rope coiling class as it is easiest to learn. With this, stacking is also addressed. Be sure folks understand how to do so keeping the tails handy.

Now get the harnesses out and begin the discussion of the three point check system with harnesses and their proper use. Next progress into knots and ultimately the second and third points of the check system, tying in and anchoring. It is good to emphasize checking each other. Once tied in and anchored, the guide can teach belaying. Emphasize how the brake hand remains on the rope at all times.

This brings us to top roping. It can be helpful to have folks hang on the rope very near the ground so they can experience trusting and using the rope and so the belayer can feel and hold someone on belay. This is also a good time to have folks learn how to lower and how to be lowered. In basic and intermediate schools it is important that clients have backup belays throughout the entire class. Clients can back each other up if proper instruction on how to manage this is given.

Lots of climbing, belaying and coaching use up the rest of the class. Lunch is interjected at whatever point seems appropriate. Generally, you can add a short easy rappel and if things go smoothly and you have time, a short, though perhaps contrived, multi-pitch climb.

JHMG Standard Climbing Signals JHMG uses and teaches the Petzoldt Syllabic Climbing Signal System: - That’s me - On-be-lay (3) - Climb-ing (2) - Climb (1) - Up-rope (2) - Slack (1)

Please emphasize that when the guide gives a “belay-off” signal, the client corresponds with “off belay” when the rope has in fact been removed from the device.

Intermediate School: A full day of practice in preparation for the high peaks. Basic course or previous experience required. Outcome: As with all classes and programs, folks should come back having had a fun time and climbed a lot. Upon completion of intermediate school clients should have a strong base for the skills needed to climb the Grand Teton or similar peaks. Two days of instruction are really not a great deal of time, so it is not expected that clients have everything wired. But at the very least, they should be familiar with and have experienced the skills necessary to ascend the Grand. Skills to be taught: • Review of crag/mountaineering risk management. • Review of 3-point safety check system. • Reiterate JHMG standard signals (i.e., PSCS). • Review of rope handling with the addition of the mountaineer’s coil and proper stacking. • Review of knots: figure 8 follow through and clove hitch. • Belay review with the addition of top belays and belaying a leader. • Use of an aider. • Pro placement with emphasis on removal. • Multi-pitch climbing including back clipping, belay ledge management and anchor management, and • Steep exposed rappels. General flow: There are a number of reasons clients take an intermediate class. They may be signed up for the basic and intermediate and the Grand, or intermediate and the Grand, often called a warm-up, or simply for the intermediate alone. Get a sense of their goals so you can cater the class to their needs. It is also important to provide a proper briefing regarding risk management, class curriculum, general flow of the class and, in many cases, how it relates to the Grand.

A review of basic skills allows you to see the client’s skill level and/or what knowledge they have retained from basic class. The guide may start the day with the briefing described for basic school, then progress into getting geared up. This is a good time to review the 3 point check system. If working with multiple guides, one guide may set up top ropes while the other runs the review. Generally, the guide sets an aider on one of the top ropes. Once all the reviews and pertinent new info have been communicated, progress into climbing TRs. Give a brief demonstration of the use of an aider and make sure all clients cycle through the aider exercise. Keep in mind that intermediate school means that clients are not experienced climbers, so the use of backup belays or some other form of backup is essential. Once all have done a number of climbs, a break for lunch is good.

The next step in the class usually involves a discussion of pro placement and removal. Emphasize removal of gear since this will be an important skill to have on the Grand. A multi-pitch orientation follows. Generally, guides run a mock traversing pitch on the ground first so any problems are easily dealt with before jumping into the real thing. A guide then ascends a route; this can be a single pitch if time is running thin so long as folks have to follow, climb an aider, back clip and/or understand unclipping the rope in parallel rope technique, and clip into --and experience -- a belay ledge. Multiple pitches are preferred. Next, review rappelling having everyone rappel off the climb with a backup belay. Folks should be familiar with a belayed rappel. This usually concludes the intermediate school. If time permits climb some more!

Snow school: Learn to use the ice axe and the techniques for ascent, descent and safety systems on summer snow.

Outcome: The catch word for all classes is FUN. Clients should leave snow school with a good understanding of how to travel on snow with an ice axe, what to do if they fall and how it might be useful as an early season general mountaineering/backpacking tool. In addition clients should be exposed to and have experienced some basic snow climbing/descending techniques and anchors. Skills taught: • Mountaineering risk management. • Rope handling, stacking and pertinent knots (figure eight on a bight, figure eight • follow through, butterfly, clove hitch). • 3 point check. • General ice axe terminology. • Moving over/ascending snow with an axe (Duck foot, step kicking, American technique, when to move axe, placing axe, high and low dagger and cutting steps). • Self arrest (sitting feet first, head first on back and head first on stomach). • Descending techniques (sitting, squatting and standing glissades, plunge stepping). • Basic anchors and removal (deadmanning, pickets/flukes/ice axe, bollards). General flow: We design snow schools to increase client skills for our own programs and for their own travel after JHMG. Often we find ourselves in a situation where a full snow school is not practical, but some ice axe training is imperative. An

example of this would be early season traveling to high camp. Clients need some ice axe/self arrest training to get to high camp.

During early season 4-day Grand climbs it may be appropriate to provide additional snow training on the third day and summit on the fourth. Guides should be careful to consider client’s needs over personal agendas.

Classes should begin with a briefing on mountaineering risk management, a review of the curriculum, and how the training might be useful to them in the future. Make sure folks understand how to adjust and use their helmets. Guides and clients must wear helmets during snow schools. Some discussion on ice axe terminology is helpful for the client. Pick a site that has a good runout, i.e., no obstacles for clients to hit.

Teach the various ways to travel over and climb snow. Show clients that as the angle increases our techniques change. Clients can follow guides up a mellow slope and then descend with the plunge step. Once clients seem comfortable with such techniques, move to self-arrest training.

Clients learn and practice the various self-arrest positions from a controlled position where their legs are held before they slide. Clients progress to a point in which they feel comfortable falling into a slide on their own. Follow up the arrest class with a glissading discussion and practice.

Now is a good time for a break.

After the break we pull out the ropes, harnesses and other gear. Before tying in, teach a very basic class on snow anchors. Since time is usually a factor you can discuss placement and strength, but emphasize removal. Basic rope handling is covered quickly followed by harnesses, knots, and the three-point check system.

Then rope up and walk through running belays. Discuss clipping through protection points without unclipping the entire team. Then perform some sort of snow climb utilizing a variety of the ascending and descending techniques learned during the class.

Advanced class: Experienced climbers who want additional training or review in technique, lead climbing, pro placement, anchor building, or aid climbing. Outcome: Advanced classes are dependent on what the client desires. We do not have a set curriculum. Instead, we cater the class to the specific goals of the client. The goal is to climb and teach clients excellent classes on the curriculum of their choice. Skills taught: • Advanced rock climbing technique. • Lead climbing (mock leading) • Pro placement. • Anchors (natural and artificial) • Aid/wall climbing

General Flow: This is dependent on curriculum desired.

Protection Placement Class When teaching protection placement, introduce the nomenclature and then teach how to place and evaluate specific placements.

Nomenclature I. Natural: A. Slings around boulders: boulders should be immovable and on ground that is flat or slopes away from the direction of force. B. Slings around trees: trees should be alive, have roots that go into the mountain and be at least several inches in diameter. Beware of sharp edges. C. Horns: girth hitch slings to keep them in place. D. Pinches: beware of sharp edges.

II. Artificial A. Hammered/Drilled: 1. Pitons 2. Bolts B. Hammerless: 1. Wedges – these exert an outward force on the sides of the crack that is no greater than two times the pull on the piece. a. Passive (examples are Rocks, Stoppers) b. Active (examples are Lowe Balls, Sliders) 2. Cams – these multiply the force on the piece exerting large forces on the sides of the crack. a. Passive (examples are Tri-cams, Hexcentrics) b. Active (examples are Friends, Camalots)

Placement considerations • Anticipated direction of force • Size of the piece: larger pieces are stronger than smaller ones • Surface area of contact: more is better • Secure: “set” pieces so they will stay in place • Removability: can it be removed by the second?

Anchors Anchors are the ultimate backup to any climbing safety system. The anchor must not fail. Anchors must be built to hold forces in any of the possible directions from which they might be loaded. Use the following acronym to

remember the key components of an anchor: SRENE. (Make sure your anchor is so good that you are “serene” about it.)

Solid protection placements Redundant Equalized No Extension

Solid individual protection placements are key to any good anchor.

Redundancy allows for one part of an anchor to fail without compromising the entire anchor. Generally, this means there are at least two good pieces that are independent of one another right down to the anchor’s central or “master” point (which is often a single, locking biner).

Equalized anchors help distribute the load among the protection points. It is important that the angles between the slings as they come together at the master point be small. Large angles between the pieces cancels any equalization. Extreme angles (above 120 degrees) between pieces will actually multiply the forces on each piece.

No Extension refers to the need to reduce the acceleration of any loads in the event that part of the anchor fails. Self- equalizing anchors are slick but they do not generally reduce the potential for shock loads adequately. It is usually easy to anticipate the load and tie anchors so they are equalized for that direction.

SECTION 14 New Guide Teton Hit List Class areas • Curtis Canyon (basic and intermediate) • Boulder Town (basic) • Hoback Shield (intermediate) • Glory (snow school early season) • Hanging canyon (snow school) • Laurel Lake (late season)

Grand Teton • Pownall Gilkey • Petzoldt Ridge • Owen Spalding • Exum Ridge

Assorted climbs and summits • Guides wall • No Perches Necessary • Baxter’s pinnacle • Ice point • Symmetry Spire SW Ridge • Overhanging Pinnacle • East Face Teewinot • Disappointment Peak East Face or Lake Ledges • Middle Teton (SW couloir and North ridge) • Mount Moran (Skillet glacier and CMC route) • Owen (Koven or east ridge routes) • Buck Mountain • Nez Perce • South Teton • The Snaz • Open Book • Irene’s Arete • Cork Screw • Red Sentinnel • Okie’s Thorn • Omega Buttress

Note: Guides need to be familiar with all Teton trailheads and approaches, particularly Stewart’s Draw/Death Canyon.

APPENDIX A Important Emergency Phone Numbers 911

CALL 911 WITH LIFE OR LIMB THREATENING EMERGENCY FIRST!

JHMG office phone: 307-733-4979 JHMG Google SMS Text: (307) 222-9833 (a text message from your cell phone to this number reaches JHMG office as an email message delivered to [email protected])

JHMG Incident Management Team and after-hours Field Contacts • Patrick Petersen: (208) 351-4218 • Lisa VanSciver: (719) 651-7027 • Rob Hess: (307) 413-1460 • Jason Dittmer: (435) 659-8754 • Phil Powers: (303) 905-6330 Other important JHMG numbers • Allan Oram (medical adivisor): 406-581-2902 • High camp sat phone (iridium): (001)881632548620 • Field Sat phone (imarasat): (001)870776403253 • Google text: 307-222-9833 Teton and local forest service areas: • Grand Teton National Park Dispatch: (307) 739-3301 • Jenny Lake Ranger Station: (307) 739-3343 • Teton County Sheriff: (307) 733-2331 • Jackson Ranger District: (307) 739-5434

JHMG Radio Frequencies • AMGA = tx/rx 151.625 Tone – 151.4 • JHMG = tx/rx 151.880 Tone – 151.4 • Exum = tx/rx 151.940 Tone – 151.4 • GTNP DIR= tx/rx 171.675 Tone 123.0 • GTNP PRI= Tx 164.95- Rx171.675 Tone 123.0 • GTNP SAR- Tx/Rx 172.425 Tone 123.0

Wind Rivers: West side: Pinedale, Sublette County Sheriff: (307) 367-4378 Pinedale Ranger District: (307) 367-4326 East side: Lander, Fremont County Sheriff: (307) 332-5611 Lander, Washakie Ranger District: (307) 332-5460 Dubois, Wind River Ranger District: (307) 455-2466 Sinks Canyon State Park: (307) 332-6333, 6222

Beartooth Mountains: Beartooth Ranger District: (406) 446-2103 Carbon County Sheriff, Red Lodge: (406) 446-1234

Shoshone South Fork: Cody, Park County Sheriff: (307) 527-8700 Cody, Shoshone National Forest: (307) 527-6241

City of Rocks National Preserve, Almo: 208-824-5519

APPENDIX B Considerations for a Wilderness Medical Kit You are responsible for having an adequate and appropriate wilderness medical kit for the activity. We recognize the contents will vary depending on the activity, distance from medical care, your personal preference/training and other factors. Below is a list of items to consider. This is intended to serve as a checklist to consider, not as a required list of contents.

Equipment: 1” tape Trauma shears Wire or SAM Splint Tweezers Triangular Bandages Safety Pins Trauma Dressing Thermometer 12cc Irrigation Syringe Povidone-Iodine Ointment/solution Medications: Antiseptic Towelettes Ibuprofen Green Soap Sponges Antihistamine Wound Closure Strips Anti-diarrheal Tincture of Benzoin Swabs Anti-acid tablets 2nd Skin Moleskin Forms: Antibiotic Ointment Packets Patient Assessment (SOAP) 1X3 Fabric Bandages Evacuation Forms Knuckle and Fingertip Fabric Bandages Pencil/pen 3X3 Sterile Gauze Pads PPE for bsi 2X3 Non-Stick Gauze Pads Rescue Mask 3” conforming Roll Gauze Injury management gloves 3” elastic bandage

APPENDIX C JHMG Emergency Response Guidelines

The following is an outline of suggested responses, particularly for situations requiring possible evacuations from the field. Not all steps may be appropriate or necessary in each emergency nor are they necessarily best done in the order listed in a given situation. Use this as a tool in conjunction with your skills, training and judgment.

I. Patient Assessment: – Provide ABC’s – Complete patient exam and history - document – Provide ongoing patient care, monitoring – Call to medical advisor possible? II. Control Scene & Make Evacuation Decision and Plan A. Document: Fill out an injury/evacuation form, aka SOAP note.

B. Determine Type of Evacuation (Wind Rivers, Beartooths) – Consider: 1. Urgency, i.e., severity of medical problem (see serious injury protocols) 2. Terrain for hiking out or getting to helicopter landing site a. can the client walk, climb, ski? b. can the other clients/guides help carry? c. Is outside air evacuation possible – weather? Landing terrain? d. Is a combination of hiking and air evac possible? 3. Weather difficulties for hiking or helicopter. 4. Other outside help available/appropriate? E.g., horsepacker, other people in area, snowmobiles 5. Mechanical failures 6. Note that if you are in GTNP and a member of the party is unable to walk out, Teton climbing rangers will likely assume control of the situation and determine the evacuation plan. C. Organize: Keep others occupied and in stable condition. Possible activities: 1. Cook food and make drinks 2. Prepare client's pack 3. Prepare to go with client, if necessary 4. Find and mark helicopter site 5. Build a litter 6. Scout or break trail up ahead III. Communication: A. Two- Way Radio a. Use your JHMG radio to call for assistance from fellow JHMG guides on the mountain b. Use radio to contact rangers B. Cell Phone a. Contact JHMG. Call or SMS text the office if during business hours, or reference your emergency contact #s list for afterhours JHMG contacts. b. Notify the appropriate authorities: in the park contact the dispatcher, in other areas the sheriff's department. Refer to list of emergency contact #s. c. Guide's name, location, name of client and severity of injury are the important items to communicate immediately. C. Delorme InReach – If on an out-of-valley trip and cell phone communication is not effective (following some effort – depending on the urgency/severity of the emergency – to find coverage), and immediate help is necessary, activate the emergency button of the Delorme InReach. This will activate local search and rescue – prepare for helicopter evac – and inform JHMG that you have activated the emergency button. D. Satellite phone- a. High camp sat phone is for all business related to high camp operations. Discretionary use should be observed. Only calls regarding JHMG business or for emergency response are allowed. E. Runners – In the unlikely event this is appropriate:

a. The ideal is to leave someone with the injured party. b. If you are going out alone you must NOT become another victim. c. If you have a long way to go, prepare for possible situations that might hold you up. Safety of the rescuer is of major importance. Time must be your ally.

Remember: These are general guidelines; your experience and judgment at the time are the best guidelines!

IV. Helicopter/airplane Considerations: A. Limitations: 1. Should only be used in extreme circumstances. 2. Only fly in good weather: days with high cloud ceilings and winds less than 20 mph. 3. Pilots don't like to wait on the ground in case the weather gets worse: have ` client at the site before helicopter arrives. 4. They can crash: don't use them unless absolutely necessary. B. Site Specifics: --Airplane landing 1. Provide a bright colored wind direction indicator 2. Select a site that is at least 40 paces in diameter, and long enough for the aircraft to approach and take off on a 15- degree approach angle. There should be no obstacles within 10 feet. 3. Choose a site that is less than a 10 degree slope 4. Have the site's long axis point into the wind --Helicopter touchdown site 1. Select a 20’ x 20’ hard surface. 2. Mark the site with something bright and easy to see. 3. Remove the loose debris that could get sucked up into the helicopter's rotors from a 100 foot radius. 4. Only approach when the pilot motions you to do so. Keep your head down. 5. Always have an alternate plan because helicopters can't always be relied upon!

**In the event of an evacuation, Park personnel may request that a guide separate from their clients. Park Personnel are not guides, they are responsible for the evacuation, but they are not responsible for the other clients. WE ARE! If separating a guide from his clients puts the client, or a fellow guide in a position where the client to guide ratio is detrimental to good risk management and safety of the other clients, Guides must not be afraid to push the agenda that is best for the well-being of their clients.**

APPENDIX D Jackson Hole Mountain Guides Injury / Evacuation Report

Name of Evacuee: Trip: Guide: Date & Time of Incident: Evacuee Age: Sex: Incident Location: Subjective: Mechanism of Injury/Illness:

Chief Complaint (OPQRST*)

Objective: Vital Signs *

Date/Time LOC Pulse RR Skin Pupils T˚ ______

Symptoms (patient exam):

Allergies

Medications/drugs

Pertinent Medical History

Last Oral Intake/Output

Events (recent, relevant)

Assessment: Problem list (prioritize)

Plan: Emergency Care Rendered/Changes in Patient's Condition

Evacuation Plan (timetable, backup, pickup point)

______Guide Signature Date Time *LOC = Alert & Oriented x 4 (person, place, time, event) Verbal, Pain, Unresponsive. Pulse = rate, quality and rhythm. T = temperature RR = respiratory rate, quality and rhythm: Skin = color, temperature, moisture. Pupils = equality, roundness, reactivity to light *OPQRST onset, provokes, quality, region/radiation, severity, time sequence

APPENDIX E JHMG Guiding Skills Training Check List

Short roping/ pitching a. Kiwi coil b. Gathering coils c. Switching hands d. Client placement e. Cows tails f. Hip/shoulder belays g. Terrain belays h. Transitioning back and forth Anchor considerations and construction a. Equalization and the use of cordalettes b. Use of shelves Belay escape a. Tying off a belay device b. Friction knots (kleimheist, prussic ) c. Use of load transfer systems (münter/mule, prussic/rope) d. Base line e. Mini block and tackle Lowering techniques a. Münter, redirected belay device, mega münter c. Back-ups (auto block) d. Knot pass systems e. Closing loop Descending techniques a. Pre-rigged rappel systems b. Reversible belayed rappel systems c. Tandem rappelling systems d. Use of counterbalanced rappels Haul systems a. Hard cam vs. soft cam placement b. Ratchet systems ( prussic minder, garda ) c. 3:1, 5:1, 6:1 advantages d. Back ups General Guiding techniques a. Parallel rope techniques b. Station management, parallel / caterpillar c. Improvised harnesses d. Tying directly to the rope (bowline on coil, with leg loops) Snow climbing / Guiding a. Short and long roping on snow b. Anchors and belays c. Belayed glissades d. Self arrest teaching progression

APPENDIX F NATURAL HISTORY OF THE TETONS

Sharing natural history with clients helps them connect to and appreciate the landscape, and have an overall richer experience. It is also a requirement of our Grand Teton permit. Some useful resources exist online at http://www.nps.gov/grte/parkmgmt/guideres.htm

GEOLOGY In the beginning there was an ocean covering the area. It came and went, leaving behind sand and shells. This age was followed by a volcanic period. The Teton fault opened up after that. The fault is 40 miles long and it tilts toward the west. You can see part of it on the lower slopes of Teewinot, below the rock outcrops. It is believed that the fault will continue the uplift in the future which would mean the Tetons are still growing. The Tetons at one point were over 20,000' high. Streams began to cut through which took away the volcanic and oceanic sediments.

The final stage leading to the current age was the Ice Age. There were glaciers over 3000' thick. There were three different ice sheets that came through. The remains of the first ice sheet are still in evidence as the cap on Blacktail Butte. The second ice sheet left the relatively recent looking moraines like Timbered Island and the plains along the Snake River. The third ice sheet created the dams that form the Phelps, Taggart, Bradley, Leigh, and Jenny lakes. It also left the debris at the mouths of the canyons. This sheet didn't advance east across the valley except at Jackson Lake which diverted the Snake around Signal Mountain.

The present day glaciers are not remnants of the ice age; they probably formed in the last few thousand years. There are seven glaciers in the Tetons. The Teton Glacier is around 3500' long and 1100' wide. It advances approximately 40' per year but melting at the snout prevents any forward movement. Photos from 1898 show it was about 500' further down valley than now and 200' thicker.

The Tetons are composed mostly of schists and gneisses. These are granite-like substances, with the schists being more parallel layered than the twisted gneisses.

Some rocks that are interesting are the dikes on the Middle Teton, the Grand Teton, and Mt. Moran. They are around 756 million years old. They are made of diabase and are for the most part 20'-50' thick although the dike on Moran is 2-3 times that thick.

Evidence of the oceanic times can be seen on the cliffs of Mt. Hunt, the Wall, and Rendezvous Peak as well as most of the cliffs to the south.

Mt. Moran and Bivouac Peak are the only summits with remnants of sedimentary strata. This is called Flathead Sandstone.

The Gros Ventre slide occurred in 1925. A mile-long mountain mass slid 2000' into the valley and 400' up the other side. In 1927 Lower Slide Lake broke the dam and washed away Kelly minus the church and the school. It had been a really wet spring and there had been a lot of earthquake tremors.

Geologic History of the Tetons The Teton Range is 40 miles long and 15 miles wide. It is the youngest range in Wyoming and it is still growing at a rate of 5 “/ 100 years (1mm/yr).

Historic Geologic Events 1925 Gros Ventre Slide - one of the largest historic landslides in US 1927 Kelly Flood - the dam made by the landslide broke, 6 people were killed and Kelly was destroyed

Glacial Ice Ages Today -The Teton Glacier moves about 30 feet per year! ~ 3000 years ago - Today’s glaciers are probably not remnants of the Ice Ages.

~15,000 years ago- Ice extended from Yellowstone to Jackson Lake and left the moraine that created the natural dam of Jackson Lake. At the same time is when the valley glaciers in the canyons south of the lake came down to the floor and created the moraines that now form Leigh, Jenny, Bradley, Taggart, and Phelps Lakes ~15-70,000 years ago-“ Pinedale Glaciation “- Ice covered Yellowstone and most of the Teton peaks and canyons. The boulders we climb on at Boulder Town are from this period. They are called erratics. ~150,000 years ago- “Bull Lake Glaciation“- ice filled Jackson Hole- ~ 3,000’ thick

Mountain Building -- last 15,000 years - Tetons have uplifted 140 feet - the most active segment of uplift occurs between Death Canyon and Moran Canyon. The fault scarp can be seen from the Boulder Town parking area on the flanks of Teewinot -- 5-10 million years ago - Birth of the Tetons -- 50-80 million years ago - Birth of the Rocky Mountains (Laramide Orogeny ) - Winds, and Gros Ventres formed at this time -- 50-115 million years ago - Birth of the Snake River Range

Today’s Scenery ~540 million years ago - Cambrian Age - Flathead sandstone left from that period on top of Mt. Moran and Bivouac Peak -- 240 - 570 million years ago - Jackson was a tropical sea. Limestone cliffs formed like at the head of Avalanche Canyon, the head of Death Canyon, the south fork of Cascade Canyon, and Rendezvous Mountain ~765 million years ago - The diabase dikes of Mt. Moran, the Middle Teton, and the Grand Teton were formed. The dike on Mt. Moran ranges in thickness from 100-120 feet and has been traced westward for over 7 miles. The dike on the Middle is 20-40 feet thick and the Grand is 40- 60 feet thick ~2.7 billion years ago - The gneisses formed - the oldest rocks in the range - the layered gneisses are composed of quartz, feldspar, biotite (black mica muscovite (white mica), and hornblende (green mineral).

HUMAN HISTORY The earliest humans in the Tetons were of the Mongolian race who are theorized to have come across the Bering Land Bridge. The earliest artifacts found here have been dated to 8000 BC. The later Native American tribes were the Flathead, Nez Perce, Gros Ventre, Blackfeet, and Shoshone. The first white people came to the valley around 1800. It is believed that one of Lewis and Clark's hunters, John Colter, first discovered the Tetons. He entered the valley via Togwotee Pass or Union Pass. He then crossed the range into Idaho, went north to Conant Pass, and then entered Yellowstone. He apparently spread the word and trappers came to the valley. It was during this time that the Tetons got their name from the French trappers. The valley also got its name from a trapper of this time, Davey Jackson. He, Jedediah Smith, and Bill Sublette trapped in the valley for 20 years and made a fortune. Jim Bridger, Joe Meek, and Osborne Russell came later and stayed after the beaver had been depleted to become guides for government expeditions until 1860. In 1872 Hayden brought in the survey parties.

Many of the geographic features in the Tetons got their names from members of the Hayden survey. Mt. Moran was named for artist Thomas Moran. Bradley and Taggart Lakes were named for two geologists. Mt. St. John was named for member Orestes St. John. In the 1880s the first settlers arrived. Stephen Leek was among them; he is credited with starting the Elk Refuge. Yellowstone became the world's first national park in 1872. The town of Jackson was platted in 1897.

GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK 1908 - Government established Teton National Forest 1926 - John D. Rockefeller came to the valley. He fell in love with the Tetons but was very dismayed with the way they were being treated. He bought more about 35,000 acres in order to protect them. 1929 - An act of Congress created Grand Teton National Park. The boundaries were from Granite Canyon to Webb Canyon. This caused the same sort of furor that is occurred more recently over President Clinton's creation of Grand Staircase National Monument of the Escalante. 1943 - Roosevelt established 221,000 acres as Jackson Hole National Monument. Rockefeller deeded his 35,000 acres to the government to add in as well. 1950 - The “new” or expanded Grand Teton National Park, combining the existing Grand Teton National Park and the Jackson Hole National Monument into the current boundaries, was established.

CLIMBING HISTORY 1872 - Langford was superintendent of Yellowstone. He and James Steven of the Hayden Survey claim to have climbed the Grand. 1898 - Billy Owen and Frank Spaulding climbed the Grand and believed they were the first people to have done so. This is the "Grand Controversy." The general consensus is that they were right. 1919 - The Tetons become known to the world after LeRoy Jeffers climbs Mt. Moran. He wrote about the Tetons and compared them favorably to the European Alps, Russia, Canada, and Alaska. 1923 - Eleanor Davis and Albert Ellingwood climb the Grand, the Middle, and the South. 1924 - Paul Petzoldt made 4 ascents of the Grand, which marked the beginning of his long history in the Tetons. 1925-1926 - Fryxell and Smith bag many of the first peak ascents left in the range. 1930 - Mt. Owen is the last peak climbed. Underhill, Fryxell, Henderson, and Smith team up for the successful summit. 1960 - 1911 new routes were put up.

TETON FLORA AND FAUNA Common Wildflowers Every Guide Should Know

Lower elevations Arrowleaf Balsamroot - abundant yellow flower w/ arrow-shaped leaves on a long stalk Heartleaf Arnica - another abundant yellow flower but with heart shaped leaves Mule’s Ears - very similar to Balsamroot but with longer mule’s ear-shaped leaves Lupine - if you don’t know this one,... Indian Paintbrush - or this one,... the Wyoming state flower Scarlet Gilia - aka sky rocket, red flower in early season Shooting Stars- pink/ purple flowers with pulled back petals Elephant’s Head – pink/purple flowers that look exactly like a little elephant’s head- likes wet areas Mountain Bluebells - edible plant w/ blue/purple flowers that grows along streams Monkshood and Delphinium - tall, purple flowers, found on the trail into Cascade Canyon Larkspur- poisonous purple flower, a small delphinium, grows around sagebrush Columbine - pale yellow and white, found in Cascade Canyon and Symmetry Couloir Sticky Geranium - tall pink flowers that grow all over the place Fireweed - taller brighter pink flowering plant Sego Lily - white flower with only 3 petals that grows along the hillside up to Curtis Canyon Huckleberry- blueberry family, here we call ‘em huckleberries Thimbleberry - red-orange raspberryish berry with big leaves along Cascade Canyon trail

Above Tree line Moss Campion- pink flowers growing in a mossy mat Phlox- little white, lilac, or blue flowers with 5 petals that grow in mats Alpine Forget-Me-Nots - beautiful little blue flowers with yellow “eyes ”- grows in mats Sky pilot and Jacob’s Ladder- purple flowers that smell skunky- especially at Black Dike

An Easy Guide to the Evergreens “Spruces are sharp and square” If you pull a needle off you will notice it is a single needle and it will easily roll in between your fingers because it has a square shape. If you grab at the branch it will feel sharp and prickly. Blue Spruce- Grows at lower elevations along water. The cones are twice as long as the Engelmann Spruce cone. Engelmann Spruce- Grows everywhere else, abundant. The cones are papery and can be used for TP as a last resort! Cones grow in abundance on the upper branches. “Firs are flat and friendly” If you pull a needle off you will notice it, too, is single but it won’t roll easily between your fingers because it has a flat shape. If you grab at the branch it will feel “friendly “and not prick you. Douglas Fir - Grows at lower elevations. The cone has what looks like a little mouse tail hanging out from under each bracket. Unlike “true” firs whose cones are upright, doug fir cones are pendant. The bark is usually pimply looking. Sub-alpine Fir - Grows at higher elevations. Cones grow upright on the branches.

“Pines come in packets” If you try to pull off a needle you will notice it comes in a packet or fascicle of 2 or 5 needles. The needles are also longer than the spruce or fir needle. Lodgepole Pine - There are 2 needles in the packet. This pine grows at lower elevations and grows in dense stands. This tree is typically very straight and skinny which is why Native Americans used it for their teepee lodge poles. White Bark Pine - there are 5 needles in the packet. This pine grows at higher elevations and has purple cones with nuts that squirrels and bears love to eat. Limber Pine - Also has 5 needles in the packet. Doesn’t have purple cones and the cones are much longer than the White Bark cones.

APPENDIX G LEAVE NO TRACE

JHMG is a corporate member of LNT, fully supports the goals of minimizing human impact on the wilderness while recreating in it, and is bound by its permits to practice LNT principles in the field. As a guide, you are responsible for knowing and practicing the principles of LNT. These principles are: 1. Plan Ahead and Prepare 2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces 3. Dispose of Waste Properly 4. Leave What You Find 5. Minimize Campfire Impacts 6. Respect Wildlife 7. Be Considerate of Other Visitors

1. Plan Ahead and Prepare There are many aspects to this principle. Most importantly, proper planning and preparation will increase the likelihood that the activity, clients, guide, environment, equipment and food are properly suited so that more environmentally damaging activities are not necessary for purposes of safety. For example, having appropriate gear in early season conditions can obviate the need for a massive bonfire in a sensitive location to keep the client warm.

The guide should understand the regulations and permit stipulations of the area to be guided in. There are different methods of food storage, human waste disposal and wastewater disposal for different land use agencies and they can change at different times of year.

The guide should make sure to allow enough time to travel and camp with minimal impact to land, wildlife and others. The appropriate camping gear should be included and food should be packaged in such a way (both in amount and packaging) as to leave little waste to pack out. The guide should choose appropriate climbs (and set aside appropriate time) for clients so the route won’t have to be abandoned and LNT principles forsaken in the name of risk management.

2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces A) Travel on durable surfaces to minimize damage to more fragile vegetation and soils. Established trails are ideal places to travel. In early season these trails may be muddy or running with water but try to avoid creating alternate trails. Never shortcut switch backs, ESPECIALLY the switchbacks into Garnet Canyon. In the case of a climber’s trail, please follow it as closely as possible. Rock clearly is a durable surface; lichen is not durable. Grass can be reasonably durable, but woody plants are not as they break and take a while to repair to their previous condition.

“Social Trails” are trails that can develop between your tent and your kitchen or pack or between your kitchen and a water source, especially if you remain in one camp for multiple days. Please avoid creating these trails by using a durable route or by going a different way each time. You can bring a dromedary bag to store water so that you make fewer trips to the water’s source.

B) Camping considerations include the following: The kitchen typically sees the most use in any camp so plan your kitchen well. Rock slabs make great surfaces for kitchens but watch out for moss. The bigger slabs can make a nice tent site. Place your pack in a durable location as you will tend to trample the area while unpacking and packing.

Pine duff, snow, grass, sand and previously highly impacted campsites are all “durable” surfaces and good choices for camping. Avoid any plants with woody stems and fragile high alpine plants. Grouse whortleberry is very sensitive so learn to identify it. It’s abundant in the forests of the Tetons and Wind River Range. Avoid lightly used campsites that will become highly impacted areas with more use.

Do not alter your campsite to make it flat or to divert rainwater. Do not break branches off live trees when tying to them or in order to be able to camp closer to the tree. Avoid collecting and tying off to rocks that have a community living under them; if that is your only option please return those rocks to their holes when you are done.

C) Climbing Specific Use Rather than rappel with ropes directly around tree trunks, leave a sling. Pulling ropes around trees can damage them. The sling can be removed later. Wherever you climb, try to unload your gear on durable surfaces (rocks, even grass), not delicate vegetation.

3. Dispose of Waste Properly A) Pack it in, pack it out. As mentioned in the plan-ahead section, you should repack foods into zip locks so that you don’t have excess trash to have to deal with. This doesn’t mean you have to unwrap all energy and candy bars since they will often melt somewhat and stick together, but please be aware that there are many energy bar and candy bar wrappers floating around in the mountains these days. Please consider leaving an area better than you found it by taking that trash out with you as well. Leftover food counts as trash if you can’t eat all of it. Better in your stomach than on your back.

Most of the areas we guide in have bears around so not only is it a good LNT principle to pack out leftovers, but it is a risk management issue as well. This includes the food scraps that may still be in a bowl when you go to wash it. All food particles should be removed from a bowl before washing so that they don’t end up on the ground. The remaining gray water should be scattered over a wide area, or if in bear habitat, make a small sump hole and pour into it, covering once finished.

You should never wash your dishes in a stream or lake as food particles will remain preserved in the cold water for everyone to see for a very long time. If you boil water to wash dishes, they will be clean and sanitary WITHOUT the

use of soap. Even biodegradable soap has impurities that can damage streams. Sponges are a very unsanitary item unless you are rinsing them out with boiling water.

If you must use soap or if a client feels they must use soap for washing their face, make sure soap washing occurs at least 200 feet from a water source.

B) Climbing Specific Trash Keep a knife handy to remove old, unsafe slings you find littering rappel, belay, and pendulum sites. Make sure all tape gets removed from the site as well.

C) Cat holes, Toilet Paper and High Camp When not in Grand Teton National Park or other high use areas where we have Reststops or other bags, we use cat holes to dispose of feces. These should be 200’ from any water course - streams, lakes, drainages, intermittent streams, etc. In the spring it can be hard to tell what is an official water course; anything marked on a map with blue counts, blue dashes as well. Cat holes should be 6”- 8” deep and preferably in organic soil. Often we are above tree line and organic soil can be hard to find. Try to go on a south-facing slope in those cases so that the sun’s heat can penetrate to kill organisms. In no case should you hide your feces under a rock. The sun will never get to it to sanitize it and someone else will probably come along and lift it up later.

If you are in an area that is not at risk for wildfire (on snow, in early spring, after a large rainfall, in a rocky zone, near a fire ring) you may burn your toilet paper and bury the part that won’t burn all the way. If there is fire danger, pack it out.

As a general rule, urination is fine anywhere except directly in or near a water source, or in close proximity to or in a campsite or kitchen/cooking area. We do have problems with the goats in the Beartooths tearing up an area where we have urinated in order to get the salt. In that case, try to urinate in a durable area, if possible, such as on rocks.

Please note all feminine hygiene products must be packed out. The high camp setup is to use the pre-made bag system. Each person then packs out their feces and their toilet paper. Please try to spread everyone out to urinate as the smell can become impactful in the late summer.

D) Climbing Specific – When climbing, the best option for disposal of sanitary waste is a Restop or plastic bag.

4. Leave What You Find This principle is self-explanatory and, as backpackers, for us, it is self-limiting. It is illegal to remove anything from a National Park.

5. Minimize Use of Campfires This is another self-limiting principle in many ways. We are often above tree line where there is no fuel to burn. Campfires are nice when there is an available campfire ring, plenty of fuel, and no fire restrictions in place. They can also be survival tools. If you have a fire, manage it well. Never leave it unattended. Don’t burn trash in it or

leave behind unburned items foreign to the environment. Try to keep it small so you don’t use more of the resources than necessary. Don’t break limbs off trees; find your wood on the ground – “dead and down.” When you are done, burn the fire all the way down and then saturate the ash with water.

If there is no fire ring and fire is needed for survival try to use a dry waterway or mound a lot of sand on a rock and build it on the mound. Please read some of the information on the environmental resources shelf if you don’t know how to build a minimum impact fire.

6. Respect Wildlife The biggest threat we pose to wildlife is from feeding them either directly or indirectly. Please explain to clients that feeding wildlife is not good for them or us. If rodents get used to untidy kitchens or direct feedings from us they can come to rely on our feeding them. They can choke on plastic wrappers and may get ill from ingredients in our food. They will not only become a nuisance but also might transmit diseases to us. The artificial increase in their numbers at these sites can also lead to a spread of disease among their own as well.

Keep a clean kitchen. Hang your food in places where rodents problem or bear camping regs are in effect. A guide should know where these areas are and be sure to plan ahead and bring appropriate gear for food hanging or storage. Ask questions prior to departure.

Please teach clients that animals don’t want us in their faces taking photos. Also explain to them that sometimes it is necessary to take detours to avoid disturbing them in times of stress; winter, birthing season, or when there are young present. A guide should know if there are closures of routes where there may be nesting Peregrine Falcons. When ice climbing in Cody’s South Fork, we must strive to not disturb the bighorn sheep that are wintering there; remember that in your personal travels as well.

7. Be Considerate of Other Visitors This principle is an important one to us as a business. We want all meetings with the general public to be good ones. Always try to be patient without sacrificing safety. Try to help when needed. Sometimes offering information or a rope will eventually help speed things up for you and your client. This has been well-received at the rappel station coming off the Grand Teton and at the fixed line.

Keep the numbers small on crowded trails, especially the Garnet Canyon trail. Get off the trail with your group when taking a rest break so that you don’t block other people’s way.

Remember horses have the right of way and to step off the trail on the downhill side to let them pass. Respect livestock that may be grazing on permitted lands. Remember the western adage about gates: leave them as you find them.

If you or a client must have music on your trip, use headphones and make sure it doesn’t upset anyone else. With cell phones, be discrete and have your clients do the same.

Another issue that can result in problems with the general public is parking. Park only in designated areas or along roadways that are not posted. Carpool when it is practical. For our Grand Teton climbs and daily classes we should try to get as many clients as possible to carpool, guides too, because the Lupine Meadows, Curtis Canyon, and Hoback Shield parking areas can get really crowded.

Curtis Canyon sees some non-JHMG visitors during the day. There are only so many climbs we can put clients on but we need to be respectful of others. Try not to monopolize the area when hanging your ropes on the climbs; for liability reasons, it is not advisable to let the public climb on our ropes. Consider starting with rappelling instead of the usual climbs.

APPENDIX H

GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK PERMIT HIGHLIGHTS

The commercial climbing concession contract under which JHMG operates in Grand Teton National Park contains numerous conditions and restrictions governing the conduct of our operations within Park. Below is a summary of those most pertinent to field operations. Any contact or communication with GTNP personnel (except the usual and routine entrance gate communication) should be reported to the office.

1) STAFFING AND EMPLOYMENT

• All guides --winter, non-technical summit and technical climbing guides—must have experience in terrain that is more difficult than their guiding assignments. Guides assigned to 5th Class routes must be comfortable in at least 5.8 terrain (higher if necessary for the route) and guides on 3rd and 4th Class ascents must have 5th Class experience. All guides must have experience in the Tetons.

• Guides cannot be independent contractors. Guides must be on the Concessioner’s payroll and be covered by its insurance policies and Workers Compensation Policy.

• All guides must have current Wilderness First Aid certification (or equivalent) and current Adult/Child CPR certification. Winter guides must be certified at least at the Level Two in avalanche safety.

2) CONDUCT OF EMPLOYEES

• Employees will project a hospitable, friendly, helpful, positive attitude, be capable and willing to answer questions from visitors and provide visitor assistance.

• The Concessioner shall have its employees who come in direct contact with the public, so far as practicable, wear a uniform or badge by which they may be identified as the employees of the Concessioner.

• The Concessioner shall maintain, to the greatest extent possible, a drug free environment, both in the workplace and in any Concessioner employee housing within the Park.

• The Concessioner shall provide all visitor services in a manner that is consistent with and supportive of the interpretive themes, goals and objectives of the Park. All climbs and climbing schools will include some interpretation of Park resources, which may be done informally.

• Guides shall be familiar with and practice Leave No Trace principles.

3) REQUIRED AND AUTHORIZED ACTIVITIES

• Guided mountain climbing and climbing schools are required activities. Guided mountain climbing includes ski mountaineering above 7500’ and instruction, such as avalanche classes. Avalanche education may be conducted below 7500’.

• Guided day hiking, overnight backpacking without climbing and guided cross-country skiing are not allowed.

• Ski descents originating from the top of the tram at Teton Village are not authorized by this contract.

4) ENTRANCE FEES

• The non-commercial single vehicle entry fee will increase to $25, valid for seven days in both Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks. The per-person entry fee (for both commercial and non-commercial use) is $12 for seven days in both parks. The Annual Park Pass is $50, valid for one year’s entry into both parks.

• Guides on JHMG business will identify themselves at the Park entrance stations. Their entrance fees will be waived. During the winter season guides can enter the Park one day in advance of scheduled trips to check conditions.

• Guides entering the Park to recreate personally will pay applicable entrance fees.

• Clients entering the Park (with or without a guide) will pay applicable entrance fees.

• Golden Eagle or other annual park passes may not be used to admit anyone other than the person to whom it was issued. For example, a guide or client may not present an annual pass in an effort to admit others in the vehicle. Each client must either pay the applicable entrance fee or present a valid park pass.

• Winter Day Use Fee is $5.00. Available from mid-December through April 30. Valid for Grand Teton National Park only.

5) RESOURCE PROTECTION

• Activities will be conducted in a manner that minimizes resource impacts, such as implementing LNT principles and avoiding the cutting of switchbacks.

• Food storage will meet bear-proof requirements.

6) ROUTES

• All climbing routes in the Park are open for guided climbing, EXCEPT those explicitly placed off-limits in the permit (see #7 below) or by Order of the NPS (e.g., temporary wildlife closures—Baxter’s Pinnacle).

7) ROUTE RESTRICTIONS

• Ascents of the Exum Ridge are allowed during July and August on 3 and 4-day JHMG Corbet High camp programs. Ascents of the Exum Ridge on 2-day programs are not allowed during July and August. Ascents of the Owen Spaulding and Wittich Crack route during July and August are strictly forbidden on any JHMG program. Ascents of Baxter’s Pinnacle during July and August, raptor closures notwithstanding, are also strictly forbidden. Cube Point is open without restriction during the entire summer season. Large parties are advised to coordinate with Exum to avoid the possibility of overcrowding on a given day.

• In cases of severe weather or other circumstances in which an escape is needed from the routes being taken on the Grand, the JHMG must descend or substitute the summit of the Enclosure to that of the Grand.

• Climbing classes will be conducted on the morainal ridge northwest of the Cathedral Group Turnout (i.e., “Bouldertown”). Clients should park at the Cathedral Group Turnout. Climbing classes may not be conducted in an area in which it would be necessary to use the Jenny Lake boat service to transport clients.

• Guided activities are not permitted on Blacktail Butte.

• Guided day hiking, overnight backpacking without climbing and guided cross-country skiing are not allowed.

8) CORBET HIGH CAMP

• Daily capacity of 16 persons, not to exceed 12 clients.

• No caches are permitted other than at Corbet High Camp. (Note: Temporary food and/or equipment drops are permitted).

• Use of Moraine, Caves, Meadows and Platforms camping zones in Garnet Canyon is not permitted from June 1 through Labor Day.

9) CLIMBING POLICIES AND PRACTICES

• Fixed anchors requiring drilled holes must have the prior approval of the Jenny Lake Sub-district Ranger.

• Rangers request that guides doing personal climbs when not working follow the rules required of the general public, except that registration may be made by telephoning Jenny Lake.

• Park personnel expect that Guides will come to the assistance of the public in case of emergency and/or until park service personnel take over, provided that doing so will not endanger or compromise your client’s well-being.

10) BACKCROUNTRY PERMITS AND LIMITS

• Backcountry permits are required for all overnight stays other than at Corbet High Camp, and are available on a first-come, first-served basis, except for advance registrations. They must be picked up in person from park headquarters at Moose and are available on a first-serve basis 24 hours before the trip.

• JHMG is limited to 120 backcountry use nights, not including guides, from June 1 through Labor Day. (Corbet High Camp is not included in this limit, nor is day use).

• Overnight parties at locations other than Corbet High Camp are limited to 6 persons, including the guide(s) for individual sites and 12 persons including guides for group sites.

• Winter camping parties are limited to 20 persons; winter camping limits apply Dec. 1 to May 15. Use limits are determined by the Backcountry and Wilderness Management Plans.

• Backcountry campsites may be reserved in advance from January 1 to May 15. The fee is currently $25 per reservation.

• Backcountry permits are required for camping in regular camping zones (not at bivouac areas of High Camp).

• No fires unless in designated sites.

• Groups camping overnight anywhere other than High Camp are limited to 6 participants, including the guide.

• Bivouac camps require that the Jenny Lake rangers be notified. This can be done in person or by phone (733-3343).

• Guided parties, or parties meeting guides are not allowed to camp in Garnet Canyon, except in the upper South Fork.

11) FIREARMS

• Firearm possession or use in GTNP by JHMG’s staff and clients is prohibited.

APPENDIX J

OPERATIONAL REQUIREMENTS for BRIDGER-TETON, SHOSHONE AND CUSTER NATIONAL FORESTS and WIND RIVER ROADLESS AREA

OVERVIEW JHMG is permitted by the BTNF’s Pinedale District to guide overnight backpacking and climbing trips in the Bridger Wilderness (west side, Wind River Range). The BTNF’s Jackson District permits JHMG to conduct rock climbing at Curtis Canyon and Hoback Shield and to conduct winter operations on Teton Pass north of the highway.

The Shoshone National Forest’s Wind River District (Dubois, WY) and Washakie District (Lander, WY) permits JHMG to run overnight backpacking and climbing trips in the Fitzpatrick and Washakie Wilderness (east side, Wind River Range).

The Custer National Forest’s Beartooth District (Red Lodge, MT) permits JHMG to conduct overnight backpacking and climbing trips in the Beartooth Wilderness Area.

Access to Gannett Peak from the east is gained via the Cold Springs trailhead on the Wind River Indian Reservation.

Bridger-Teton National Forest (BTNF) (West side Wind River Range, Bridger Wilderness)

Review and understand JHMG’s emergency procedures and protocols.

All guides must have in possession BTNF Identification Cards and present this ID card to any BTNF employee upon request. (Guides may politely request to see federal ID of non-uniformed persons purporting to be employees of the BTNF).

Grizzly Bear Food Storage Order in effect throughout entire Wind River Range (BT and SNF). All food must be hung (10 feet high, 4 feet from tree or cliff face) or stored in approved bear-resistant containers.

Bear camping and bear avoidance techniques, including placing cooking area at least 50 yards from tent, are recommended.

All guides must carry first aid kit and SPOT Messenger and cell phone, or satellite phone.

Drinking water should be treated, filtered or boiled.

Bear spray (one can per guide, holstered and readily accessible) is required on all backcountry trips (except winter) in the Wind River Range.

All climbing parties must adhere to scheduled itinerary and campsites unless extenuating circumstances (i.e., medical emergency) dictate otherwise.

Maximum group size, including guides, is fifteen (15). Groups in excess of 15 must split into smaller groups (not to exceed 15) and must remain at least one (1) mile apart at all times.

No camping within 200 feet of lakes and system trails (i.e., those indicated on Forest Service maps), or within 100 feet of streams, creeks or springs.

No camping within one-half (½) mile of the following areas:

Eklund Lake Seneca Lake Barbara Lake Little Seneca Lake Seneca Lake Trail Titcomb Basin

Bonneville Basin Clark Lake Hobbs Lake Lake Ethel Indian Basin

No caching equipment or supplies in designated Wilderness areas.

Exercise proper trail etiquette, no cutting of switchbacks, yield to horsemen on trails (move 10’ off trail on downhill side if possible).

Leave No Trace, minimum impact camping practices apply.

Dispose of human waste via cat holes. Toilet paper is burned or carried out. Above timberline, consider using Rest Stop bags.

Report all injuries, illnesses, incidents and near misses to Office.

Shoshone National Forest -- Wind River (Dubois) and Washakie (Lander) Districts (East side Wind River Range, Fitzpatrick and Popo Agie Wilderness Areas).

Maximum group size is 20, including guides. All other general requirements for BTNF above apply, plus:

No camping within one-quarter (¼) mile of Lonesome Lake (Cirque of the Towers)

Wind River Roadless Area

All persons crossing or entering Wind River Indian Reservation lands to approach Gannett Peak or for other reasons must obtain and have in their possession a Tribal fishing license.

Custer National Forest -- Beartooth District (Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness)

All general requirements listed for BTNF apply to Custer N.F.

PLEASE REPORT ANY CONTACT WITH FOREST SERVICE or TRIBAL OFFICIALS TO OFFICE

APPENDIX K

JHMG RECORD KEEPING STRATEGY

• Equipment Inspection – harnesses, ropes, helmets, ice axes, crampons, avalanche beacons. o Start of season PPE Inspection Form – Guide Responsibility o Record-keeping responsibility – Summer or Winter Coordinator, as appropriate o Post-Trip Report – Please note any and all equipment issues on the Post Trip Report – Guide Responsibility o Group Gear Checkout Form – Guide Responsibility o Personal Rental Gear Form– Office Staff/ Guide Responsibility • Training Records o Maintain summary of training (see above document JHMG Training Records) in general training file – Summer Coordinator, Office Manager o Maintain individualized training record in individual guide file – Chief/ Lead Guide • Client Records o Pre-Trip Report – Guide – depending on branch and season. o Post Trip Report – Guide Responsibility o Completed evac/injury form – Guide responsibility • Employee Injury/Incident Records o Completed evac/injury form – Guide responsible o Form retained in file of injured guide and in file for all injured JHMG employees – Office Manager o OSHA form completed, retained – Office Manager o WY Workers Comp file completed, submitted (guide w/ office assistance as needed) and copy retained in individual guide file and WY Workers comp file. –Office Manager/Summer Coordinator • Close call reports o Post Trip Report – Guide Responsibility o Near Miss Report – Guide Responsibility • Risk management analysis o Review of incident occurs immediately by management and depending on severity, the owners will be involved. Corrective action will be taken if indicated. o Review and analysis of all incidents, including injury and close call incidents experienced by guides and/or clients, take place at end of season with recommendations and/or corrective actions noted. • Miscellaneous Reports o Guide Equipment Feedback Report – 1 Per Guide Per Season – Guide Responsibility

APPENDIX L JHMG TWO-WAY RADIO PROTOCOL

Guides working in Jackson will be issued 2-way radios for the season. It is the guide’s responsibility to maintain the radio. Make sure it is charged and in working order for each trip throughout the season.

If you ever need to use a 2-way radio in a real emergency, it is vital that you are clearly understood. To do this it is important to understand the differences between a telephone and a two-way radio. Two-way radios are not like a telephone. Telephones and cell phones are "full-duplex" which means you can talk and listen at the same time. Most two way radios are "simplex" which means you cannot hear anyone while you have the talk button pressed.

It is extremely important to take turns talking. To help with this, standard radio procedures have been created.

The single most important mistake people make is failing to identify themselves. There may be several people using the same channel as you, so it’s important to know who you are directing your transmission to.

To call someone, say the name of the person you want to call, followed by the words "THIS IS," then say your name and "OVER."

Example: "Susan, THIS IS John, OVER.”

It's important to say the name of the person you want to contact before saying your name, as this will get their attention, and they will listen to the rest of your message.

The word "OVER" leaves no doubt about whose turn it is to talk and avoids any confusion.

It's important to say "OVER", so they know when you are done speaking.

Some radios beep when you're done transmitting, in which case you wouldn't need to say "OVER", but it is still a good practice.

It's basic "radio etiquette" to establish contact and make sure that you have the other person's attention before you start your message. If you hear someone calling you, acknowledge his or her call by saying, "GO AHEAD" or "STAND BY" This lets the caller know that you heard them. Also remember, it may take someone a while to get to their radio and respond. Be patient in waiting for a reply.

Because only one person can talk at a time, it is more important to LISTEN on a 2-way radio than to talk!

When your business is finished, the person who started the conversation should end it by saying their name and the word "OUT," which leaves no mistake that contact has ended.

Always release the push-to-talk (PTT) button whenever you stop talking.

If you forget and keep it pushed down while you are trying to think of something to say, the radio continues to transmit, making your battery run down faster and making "dead air" so that nobody else can speak or be heard. In the least sense, it is impolite. In an emergency, it could prevent someone with vital information from getting through.

If you need to collect your thoughts, release the PTT so that somebody else can break in case they have an emergency, additional information or simply wants to join in the conversation. Leave a second or two between "hand-offs" to give others a chance to break in.

It is always best to speak in short simple phrases on the radio and toss the conversion back and forth with the word "OVER."

Don't speak immediately when you press the PTT (push to talk), especially with digital radios which among all their benefits have slightly longer delay. Wait 2-3 seconds.

If you speak as soon you press the PTT button, it can chop off the first syllable or word, making you hard to understand. If that word doesn't make it, you will just have to say it again and run down your batteries faster.

Radio User’s Language

Go Ahead – Resume transmission Say Again – Re-transmit your message Stand-by – Transmission has been acknowledged, but I am unable to respond now. Roger – Message received and understood. Affirmative – Yes – Avoid yup, nope, etc. Negative – No Over – Transmission finished. Out – Communication is over and the channel is available for others. Standard Alphabets

Used to spell out letters over the radio.

Name Based Alphabet

A – Adam J – John S – Sam

B – Boy K – King T – Tom

C – Charles L – Lincoln U – Union

D – David M – Mary V – Victor

E – Edward N – Nora W – William

F – Frank O – Ocean X - X-ray

G – George P – Paul Y – Young

H – Henry Q – Queen Z - Zebra

I – Ida R – Robert

Standard NATO Alphabet

A - Alpha K - Kilo U - Uniform

B - Bravo L - Lima V - Victor

C - Charlie M - Mike W - Whiskey

D - Delta N - November X - X-ray

E - Echo O - Oscar Y - Yankee

F - Foxtrot P - Papa Z - Zulu

G - Golf Q - Quebec

H - Hotel R - Romeo

I - India S - Sierra

J - Juliet T - Tango

Sample Dialog

Below is a sample dialog that puts these standards to use.

Adam: Mike, this is Adam. Over.

Mike: Adam, this is Mike, Stand By. Over. Mike: Adam, this is Mike, Go Ahead. Over.

Adam: Mike, there is a fire at 123 Main St. Over.

Mike: Adam, this is Mike, confirming a fire at 123 main St. The fire department will be notified. Over.

Adam: Mike, this is Adam, address is confirmed, thanks for the help. Over and Out.

Radio Usage Tips

• Be brief and to the point. • Stay off the radio unless absolutely necessary. • Engage your brain before your mouth. • Think about how best to make yourself understood. • Listen before you begin your transmission. • Make sure the channel is clear. Wait a full second AFTER you push-to-talk and BEFORE you begin to speak. This will insure the beginning of your message is heard. • Speak ACROSS the microphone rather than into it to improve intelligibility. Use a natural speaking voice. The only way to overcome loud ambient noise is to shield the microphone from the wind, point it away from the source of noise or wait until the noise passes. • You should be aware that any portable radio is much less effective when worn on your belt, because your body absorbs the radio signal. This is very noticeable with low powered radios. • Unless you are within 1/4 mile of the person you are talking to, hold the radio vertically, at face level, with its antenna in the clear. Also be aware, that you will lose more than half of your range if you use the radio inside a metal vehicle or inside a steel reinforced building. • DO NOT shout into the radio. It only distorts your transmission. • DO NOT turn the volume all the way up. This drains the battery and causes distortion. It also has no effect on outgoing transmission quality.

Team Use

If you are in a group, there will be one channel assigned for communication between you and let’s say your management or control zone officer.

For more than one group, there will be a channel assigned to communicate among group members.

Once you are allocated in a group, you turn on your radio to the corresponding channel and contact your Duty Manager. This is a way to let everyone know that your shift has started and this will also serve as a radio check.

When you have been assigned a radio and channel, stay on that channel unless you coordinate a change with your management.

APPENDIX M JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN GUIDES DRUG AND ALCOHOL POLICY

What we do at JHMG has inherent risk. Our job is to manage that risk to keep our clients safe. Drugs and alcohol negatively impact our ability to do so in a professional manner. The purpose of this policy is to ensure the physical and emotional safety of all JHMG employees and clients. This policy applies to all employees, contractors, and temporary workers. Substances covered under this policy include alcohol, illegal drugs, inhalants and the abuse of prescription and over-the-counter drugs.

Definitions under this policy • A “substance” includes alcohol, illegal drugs, inhalants and prescription and over-the-counter drugs. • An “illegal drug” is any substance that is illegal to use, possess, sell, or transfer. • “Drug paraphernalia” are any items used or intended for use in making, packaging, concealing, injecting, inhaling, or consuming illegal drugs or inhalants. • A “prescription drug” is any substance prescribed for an individual by a licensed health care provider. • An “inhalant” is any substance that produces mind-altering effects when inhaled. • You are considered “under the influence” if any substance: o Impairs your behavior or your ability to work safely and productively or use good judgment. o Results in a physical or mental condition that creates a risk to your own safety, the safety of others, or company property. o Is shown to be present in your body, by laboratory evidence, in more than an identifiable trace. “Company premises” include the JHMG buildings, grounds, company vehicles, as well as any outdoor environment where we are operating with clients. This includes Corbet High-Camp in Grand Teton National Park.

Company rules All employees must follow these rules while on company premises and while conducting company business. These rules apply any place you conduct company business, including company or your own vehicle: 1. You may not use, possess, or be under the influence of alcohol on company premises. If management approves, you may drink moderately in the Guides Lounge, but never in the company of clients or customers. If customers invite you to partake in a celebratory drink, one celebratory drink is allowed. Drinking at certain business related meetings or social gatherings are allowed if approved by management.

2. You may not physically transport alcohol or drugs into the backcountry. If clients want to carry a small amount of alcohol to high camp this is at the client’s discretion and their responsibility. 3. You may not use, possess, or be under the influence of illegal drugs 4. You may not sell, buy, transfer or distribute any drugs. It is against the law to do so, and such actions will be reported to the authorities. 5. You may not use, possess, sell, transfer, or distribute drug paraphernalia. 6. You may not use or be under the influence of inhalants. 7. You must follow these rules if you take prescription or over-the-counter drugs on the job: • You may use a prescription drug only if a licensed health care provider prescribed it for you within the last year. • You may use prescription or over-the-counter drugs only if they do not generally affect your ability to work safely. • You must follow directions, including dosage limits and usage cautions. • You must keep these drugs in their original containers or bring only the necessary supply.

The company maintains the right to consult with a doctor to determine if certain a prescription drug may create a risk if you use it on the job. The company reserves the right to change your work duties or restrict you from working while you are using a prescription or over-the-counter drug that creates such a risk.

You may not climb or guide clients while taking prescription or over-the-counter drugs that impair your ability to work safely.

You must cooperate with any investigation into substance use or abuse. This may include tests to detect the use of alcohol, drugs, or inhalants.

Testing Testing may include urine, blood, or breathalyzer tests. Before testing, you will have the chance to explain the use of any drugs. We will follow laws for keeping test results confidential.

Appendix N ALPINE TRANSITIONS

For our purposes alpine transitions are transitions that utilize one rope with two clients and a guide. There are times when the alpine guide will have two ropes but those transitions are covered in the AMGA rock program. This handout will focus on the transitions guides need to do when guiding two clients and they only have one rope.

The first big difference is that with only one rope the guide has more people to protect than they have ends of rope to use. When a rock guide does a transition with two clients the guide actually has more ends of rope than people to protect. The lack of a second rope can cause some complications but it can also make the rope management simpler. The next big difference is that the transitions often start with or end with the guide and clients in short-rope mode.

There are a lot of situations that a guide may need to transition to or from in a number of different terrain configurations. Because of that it is impossible to write or even teach a system for transitions that will work in every situation. The best a treatise or a course can do is document a foundation of techniques that can be used and combined that will allow the guide to solve the problems at hand. The skilled guide will first identify the problems the terrain and client profiles present. They then will look for the positives the terrain presents and the skills the clients’ have that can be used to simplify the solutions to those problems. Another variable is the equipment at hand including in some cases the quality of the fixed anchor. Once those assessments are made an appropriate rope technique or techniques can be employed to move both the clients and the guide through the terrain.

Defining the transitions

There are four main situations an alpine guide needs to make a transition in.

1. Short-roping to a technical descent (lowering, pre-rigged or belayed rappel). 2. Short-roping to 5th class climbing using either a caterpillar or double strand technique. 3. Technical descent to short roping. 4. 5th class climbing, either caterpillar or double rope, to short roping.

For alpine transitions we have some tools to use;

1. Backside of the anchor clove hitch. 2. Backside of the cow’s tail 3. Leashes 4. As was said above exactly how you do the transition can and should vary based on a number of variables but a foundation of methods can be discussed so that the above tools can be as effective as possible.

Short-roping to a technical descent

Discussing this transition can be quite complex since it can lead to a variety of outcomes, the common premise is that the guide needs to uncoil the rope to start the process and the guide usually needs to free up an end. How this is done can vary a bit but in most cases if the guide uses the backside of his secured client’s cow’s tail and clove hitches that to their harness the guide can uncoil and free up the rope. In some cases the guide may decide to use a leash but that gives the guide less mobility and is useful when short-roping to tight, exposed stances. Here are a few examples of the process.

Clients get to the anchor first.

Guide gets to the anchor first

1. You take the clients’ rappel devices and leave the clients in a place where they are secure so that you cannot pull the clients off if you were to fall. 2. As you approach the anchor tie a clove hitch into the back-side of the cow’s tail and clip it into your harness. 3. Once you reach the anchor you can either clip the rope between you and the clients into the anchor with or without a clove hitch. If you feel that you are protected enough without clipping the rope into the anchor you can skip this and go directly to the next step. 4. You can now uncoil and free the rope.

At this point in the transition the guide can do a number of things but because they have not used a leash they can extend themselves to try and preview the descent. Because of this ability the chances the guide will be able to lower or do a belayed rappel increases. If only one rappel is needed then the landing area is important as is the configuration of the terrain and the distance. If the guide is not confident of the distance but the landing is such that the client can be unsecured then the guide can lower one client down to the safe landing and check the distance. If the safe landing is more than a half rope length down then the client can untie and the guide can lower the second client. Once both clients are down safely the guide can do two rappels or more likely do a rappel with a down climb.

If you want to do a pre-rigged rappel for instance because you cannot see the landing or you will be doing multiple rappels the next steps in the transition are these:

1. Feed the free end of the rope through the rappel ring(s) to the middle of the rope. 2. Place your device on the rappel and clip into that with a leash. Use the longest leash you are comfortable rappelling with (important if you got to the anchor first), a good length is about 2 feet. 3. Place clients’ devices above yours. 4. Block your device with a big bight knot. 5. If clients are already there have them clip into their devices with an extension or if you arrived at the anchor first belay them over (you can use the big bight knot as a master point) and have them clip into their devices with an extension. 6. Once you and your clients are all into your devices undo your clove hitch and have your clients untie from the end and the cow’s tail.

If you want to do a lower to a belayed rappel or lower both clients and you are confident it is within half a rope length with a good landing where clients can be somewhat unprotected you can follow these steps.

1. Feed the free end of the rope through the rappel ring(s) to the middle of the rope. 2. Place your device on the rappel, clip into that with a leash and block it off with a big bight knot. Use the longest leash you are comfortable rappelling with. A good length is about 2 feet. 3. Take the free end of the rope and set-up a lower system (muenter, super muenter or a plate with a redirected brake strand) using the big bight knot as a master point and block it off. 4. If the clients are already there tie or clip the cow’s tail client into the free end and have them detach from the cow’s tail. If the clients are not there then belay them over using the big bight knot as a master point if it is convenient. Once they arrive tie or clip the cow’s tail client into the free end, detach them from the cow’s tail and anchor the end client. 5. Lower the client down. 6. Lower the second client down or have them do a belayed rappel.

There are times in alpine terrain or even in some descents on rock terrain where there is a short down climb after a rappel to a safe area. Often these down climbing sections are soloed by most recreationalists but it would be unacceptable for a client to down climb the section without some protection. If you are on-sighting, this type of terrain can be challenging to recognize. If you see a safe area where clients do not need to be secured but it appears to be more than half a rope length to reach it you can use this transition.

1. If the clients are not there clip into the anchor with a leash. 2. Take the free end pass it through the rappel rings and feed it through a device. This is a plate with a redirected brake strand system with the redirect being the rappel rings. Block this off. 3. Belay the clients over, when they arrive clip or tie the cow’s tail client into the free end and have them detach from the cow’s tail. 4. Tie the end client into the anchor, if you need to extend to watch the lower, clip into the back side of this client’s tie in with a clove hitch and remove your leash. 5. Lower the first client down to the safe area. 6. At this point you have a good measurement of the distance, if the distance is further than a half a rope length, have the client untie and pull the rope up. 7. Lower the second client and have them untie. 8. Place the middle marker at the anchor, set-up your rappel and descend.

If the clients are already there start with:

1. Clove-hitch a locking carabiner to the rope between the clients. 2. Belay the clients to the anchor and have them clip into the anchor. 3. Now down climb toward the anchor, as you get closer you can tie a clove-hitch into the rope coming from your clients cow’s tail and clip into it to increase your security. Upon arrival at the anchor you can adjust this clove-hitch. 4. You can now uncoil and free the rope. 5. Take the free end pass it through the rappel rings and feed it through a device. This is a plate with a redirected brake strand system with the redirect being the rappel rings. Block this off. 6. Clip or tie the cow’s tail client into the free end and have them detach from the cow’s tail. You can adjust your clove hitch on your waist at this point if necessary. 7. Lower the client down to the safe landing. 8. At this point you have a good measurement of the distance, if the distance is further than a half a rope length, have the client untie and pull the rope up and secure it. 9. Lower the second client and have them untie. 10. Place the middle marker at the anchor, set-up your rappel and descend.

If after lowering the first client down you find that the safe landing zone is within a half rope length you can have the client that just got lowered stay tied in and follow these steps.

1. Put the middle mark at the anchor, place your rappel device on the ropes, leash into the device, block it off with a big bight knot and unclip from the clove hitch at your waist. 2. Using the big bight knot as the master point you can lower or do a belayed rappel to get your second client down 3. Undo the big bight knot and rappel.

The final and arguably the most complex and rarest is when you want to lower both clients or do a lower to a belayed rappel to a landing that is not secure enough to leave clients unsecured. In most cases you would just do a pre-rigged rappel when confronted with this situation; however there are times when you might want to descend last. A common scenario is when you have an anchor such as a horn that you would prefer not to leave clients alone to begin a rappel in an awkward way that would compromise its strength. In that case you can back-up the anchor for a lower then remove the back-up and more carefully begin your rappel so as to not compromise the strength of the anchor.

If the lower is a long one using up most of the rope, 29 meters descent with a 60 meter rope for instance, you do not need to go to any great lengths to protect your clients, by requiring them to stay tied in they are secured. If the lower is much shorter you will need to change the transition to keep the clients secure.

1. If the clients are not there clip into the anchor with a leash.

2. Take the free end pass it through the rappel rings and feed it through a device. This is a plate with a redirected brake strand system with the redirect being the rappel rings. Block this off. 3. Belay the clients over, when they arrive clip or tie the cow’s tail client into the free end and have them detach from the cow’s tail. 4. Tie the end client into the anchor, if you need to extend to watch the lower, clip into the back side of this client’s tie in with a clove hitch and remove your leash. 5. Lower the first client down to the safe area. 6. Feed out a few extra feet of rope (just about 3 feet) and block off the lower. 7. Place a rappel device (you can use your client’s device) on the rope and clip into it with a leash. 8. Disassemble the plate you lowered the first client with and position yourself and block off your device with a big bight knot. 9. Place a leash on the second client and lower him/her using the big bight knot as a master point. 10. Have that client simply clip their leash into the rope going down to the first client. 11. Disassemble the lower and untie the big bight knot and rappel If you have the second client rappel have them use an extension and once they arrive at the bottom make sure they keep the device on the rope and stay clipped into it.

Technical Descents to Short Roping

After the descent getting back to short rope mode can be pretty consistent and simple. If it takes place in an area where you and your clients must be secured at all times it can complicate the rope management but the transitions remain basically the same.

1. In the event neither client is tied into a rope as is the case in a pre-rigged rappel, have one of your clients tie in. 2. Anchor that client with a clove hitch if security is required. 3. On the backside of the clove hitch tie a cow’s tail and clip your other client into it. 4. On the backside of the Cow’s tail tie a clove hitch and clip into it. 5. Pull ropes, coil off, unclip from the clove hitch on the backside of the cow’s tail and begin short roping.

Short-Roping to 5th Class Climbing

This set of transitions is much simpler and can be made more consistent then the descent transitions. Because they are simple you should make a point to be fluent with them so that you can accomplish them quickly, this will make you more likely to use them without much time loss. By using these transitions for significant sections of 5th class you will both enhance your clients’ experience and do a better job of risk management.

The two 5th class systems you can use are caterpillar and double rope. The decision process as to which to use begins the same way as the decision you would make as a Rock Guide or Rock Instructor plus one other consideration unique to the situation an alpine guide finds themselves in. As in the descent transition we will focus on using just one rope. Because of that if you go with a double strand system you are held to climbing only half a rope length. By doing a caterpillar system you can offset the middle client by 15-20 feet giving you more rope to reach a stance and anchor. This may mean that for a short time both clients will be moving together. Although this can have an impact on both client comfort and risk it should be short lived and being able to reach a good stance and/or anchor may outweigh those things. Even if you use the caterpillar with the second client tied into the middle of the rope you can still extend your pitch if you have your client move a short distance with you. This is a much poorer solution as it increases the risk of generating a leader fall plus it will still require that the two clients move together for a short time. Again however, it still may be a better solution than using a poor anchor or even a poor stance.

If you are confident that you will have appropriate stances and anchor opportunities a double rope system has some important benefits. Since alpine climbs often have easier 5th class sections that clients can manage with a double rope system, having both clients climbing at the same time is quicker. Also since you are using only one rope the caterpillar system can be confusing for the clients when coming off the anchor since both clove hitches are the same color. This could lead to the back client coming off the anchor inappropriately. Using a leash for the middle client can visually simplify the anchor and avoid this confusion.

Short Rope to Caterpillar

1. Anchor the clients by tying a clove hitch into the rope between them and clipping that into your anchor 2. Clove hitch yourself into the rope on the backside of the cow’s tail. 3. Uncoil the rope to the midpoint and tie or clip the cow’s tail client into the middle or just off of the middle of the rope as mentioned above. 4. Clip the cow’s tail client into the anchor with this new tie in. When doing this use the section of the rope that will be between you and that client. You might consider leashing this client with a sling instead if you feel that the clients may get confused as to which clove to undo when they leave the stance. 5. Continue to uncoil the rope and tie into the end. 6. Have one of the clients put you on belay 7. Unclip and clean up the cow’s tail and the clove hitch on your harness. 8. Check your rope management and explain to your clients how to come off the anchor when it is their turn to climb.

Short Rope to Double Rope

5th Class Climbing to Short-Roping

This transition is even easier than the previous one and should be also practiced and done quickly. The hardest part of the transition is getting the distance between the clients correct.

Caterpillar to Short Rope

1. When the first client arrives you can anchor them in as usual, though using a leash here may simplify things. If you can use a leash have them unclip from the middle of the rope. 2. When the second client arrives at the anchor clip them in with a clove hitch. 3. On the backside of that clove hitch tie a cow’s tail and clip that to the first client that had arrived. 4. The second client can then come off the leash or unclip the middle of the rope and clean the clove hitch at the anchor they were secured with. 5. Clip yourself to the backside of the cow’s tail, unclip from the anchor, coil off, unclip from the backside of the cow’s tail and continue your ascent.

Parallel Rope to Short Rope

1. When the first client arrives clip them into the anchor with a clove hitch. 2. When the second client arrives tie a cow’s tail into the backside of the first client’s clove hitch and clip them into the cow’s tail. 3. Have the second client untie from the end of the rope 4. Clip yourself to the backside of the cow’s tail, unclip from the anchor, tie into the free end of the rope, coil off, unclip from the backside of the cow’s tail and continue your ascent.

Appendix O

JHMG Risk Management and Blood Borne Pathogens Guidelines

All field staff whose job is such that there is a reasonable expectation that they could be exposed to blood-borne pathogens shall go through a blood-borne pathogen training, typically in a wilderness medicine course. Verification of current training shall be in each employee’s file. WFA, WFR and OEC shall qualify for appropriate current training.

For the safety of JHMG employees the following guidelines exist in the event that staff are exposed to blood borne pathogens or are injured on the job.

Blood Borne Pathogens Program

1. Minimizing or eliminating occupational exposure to blood or other body fluids is the goal of this program. Field staff may be expected to incur an occupational exposure to blood or other body fluids through administering First Aid or CPR.

2. All blood will be considered infectious regardless of the perceived status of the source individual.

3. JHMG designate is responsible for ensuring that gloves and CPR masks (Personal Protective Equipment [PPE]) are accessible to staff and JHMG employees.

4. Items will be considered appropriate only if they do not permit blood/other potentially infectious materials, to pass through/reach the employee's clothing, skin, eyes, mouth or other mucous membranes under the normal conditions of use and for the duration of time that the protective equipment will be used.

5. The JHMG shall take reasonable action to ensure that JHMG employees use appropriate PPE.

6. Gloves shall be worn when it is reasonably anticipated that employees will have contact with blood, non-intact skin, mucous membranes or other potentially infectious materials.

7. Disposable protective gloves and facemasks are to be disposed of after exposure as a biohazard by red-bagging and removal to a biohazard disposal facility.

Hepatitis B Vaccine & Post-Exposure Evaluation/Follow Up

1. JHMG will make the Hepatitis B vaccine and vaccination series available to all designated First Aid responders and whoever may experience occupational exposure, within OSHA guidelines, generally within 24 hours* of exposure.

2. JHMG will provide post exposure follow-up to employees who have had an exposure incident.

3. The JHMG designate shall ensure medical evaluations and procedures, including the Hepatitis B vaccine/vaccination series and post exposure follow-up, are made available to employees.

If an exposure incident occurs:

1. Employees shall wash any potentially contaminated skin area immediately with soap and water. Antiseptic towelettes and/or disinfectant solution is provided in the personal First Aid kits for exposure in the field, where hand-washing facilities are not accessible.

2. Post-exposure medical evaluation and follow-up will be made available immediately for employees who have had an exposure incident.

The follow-up will, as supported by OSHA guidelines:

1. Document who the source individual is and how exposure occurred

2. Determine HIV and HBV infectivity and document the source's blood test results.

3. Provide the exposed employee with the source individual's test results

4. Test blood for HBV and HIV status of exposed employee's blood as soon as possible after exposure incident

JHMG will give a copy of the OSHA standards to the health care professional responsible for the employee's hepatitis B vaccinations and post-exposure evaluation and follow-up.

JHMG will provide the circumstances of exposure, results of the source individual's blood tests, if available and all relevant employee medical records. This will be done within 15 days after evaluation of the exposed employee; will provide the employee with a copy of the health care professional's written opinion for post-exposure evaluation.

NOTES ON OSHA Regulations:

(This information is taken directly from the OSHA website.)

1. Who must be offered Hepatitis B vaccination? The hepatitis B vaccination series must be made available to all employees who have occupational exposure, except as provided The employer does not have to make the hepatitis B vaccination available to employees who have previously received the vaccination series, who are already immune as their antibody tests reveal, or for whom receiving the vaccine is contraindicated for medical reasons. (Also, see De Minimus Violation below.)

The responsibility lies with the employer to make the hepatitis B vaccine and vaccination, including post-exposure evaluation and follow-up, available at no cost to the employees.

2. Employee Hepatitis B Declination: Employees have the right to refuse the hepatitis B vaccine and/or any post-exposure evaluation and follow-up. Note, however, that the employee needs to be properly informed of the benefits of the vaccination and post-exposure evaluation through training. The employee also has the right to decide to take the vaccination at a later date if he or she so chooses. The employer must make the vaccination available at that time.

If an employee declines the hepatitis B vaccination, the employer must ensure that the employee signs a hepatitis B vaccine declination.

OSHA Sample Language

I understand that due to my occupational exposure to blood or other potentially infectious materials I may be at risk of acquiring hepatitis B virus (HBV) infection. I have been given the opportunity to be vaccinated with hepatitis B vaccine, at no charge to myself. However, I decline hepatitis B vaccination at this time. I understand that by declining this vaccine, I continue to be at risk of acquiring hepatitis B, a serious disease. If in the future I continue to have occupational exposure to blood or other potentially infectious materials and I want to be vaccinated with hepatitis B vaccine, I can receive the vaccination series at no charge to me.

[56 FR 64004, Dec. 06, 1991, as amended at 57 FR 12717, April 13, 1992; 57 FR 29206, July 1, 1992; 61 FR 5507, Feb. 13, 1996]

3. De Minimus Violation OSHA will consider it a de minimis violation - a technical violation carrying no penalties - if employees, who administer first aid as a collateral duty to their routine work assignments, are not offered the pre-exposure hepatitis B vaccination, provided that a number of conditions are met. In these circumstances, no citations will be issued.

The de minimis classification is limited to persons who render first aid only as a collateral duty, responding solely to injuries resulting from workplace incidents, generally at the location where the incident occurred. To merit the de minimis classification, the following conditions also must be met:

Reporting procedures must be in place under the exposure control plan to ensure that all first-aid incidents involving the presence of blood or OPIM are reported to the employer before the end of the work shift during which the incident occurs. ▪ Reports of first-aid incidents must include the names of all first-aid providers who rendered assistance and a description of the circumstances of the accident, including date and time, as well as a determination of whether an exposure incident, as defined in the standard, has occurred. ▪ A report that lists all such first-aid incidents must be readily available to all employees and provided to OSHA upon request. ▪ First-aid providers must receive training under the Bloodborne Pathogens standard that covers the specifics of the reporting procedures. ▪ All first-aid providers who render assistance in any situation involving the presence of blood or other potentially infectious materials, regardless of whether or not a specific exposure occurs, must have the vaccine made available to them as soon as possible but in no event later than 24 hours after the exposure incident. If an exposure incident as defined in the standard has taken place, other post-exposure follow-up procedures must be initiated immediately, as per the requirements of the standard.

Appendix P

The Mountain Guides Policies Regarding Harassment, Discrimination, and Equal Opportunity Employment

Equal Opportunity, Harassment, and Discrimination The Mountain Guides is an equal opportunity employer and does not discriminate in its hiring and employment processes based on any protected classes, including race, color, national origin, religion, age, sex, gender, sexual orientation, pregnancy, physical or mental disability, veteran’s status, or genetic information. Further, The Mountain Guides is committed to creating a workplace environment free of harassment and discrimination, including not only the legally protected classes noted above, but also in general. Guiding work can be demanding, and this need not be further complicated by interpersonal conflict, mistreatment, or abuse. All employees are expected to contribute to a positive workplace culture of individual accountability where harassment is reported and is not tolerated.

Definitions and Examples The nature of guiding work can create opportunities for harassment and discrimination to occur more readily: https://www.eeoc.gov/eeoc/task_force/harassment/report.cfm#_Toc453686321

Consequently, we expect our guides and other employees to actively strive to create a working environment that is welcoming and inclusive.

Employees are expected to understand what constitutes harassment or discrimination. Legal definitions and regulations for protected classes can be found via the U.S. Equal Employment Opportunity Commission, here: https://www.eeoc.gov/laws/types/.

Specifically, harassment is defined as “unwelcome conduct that is based on [any of the aforementioned protected classes where] 1) enduring the offensive conduct becomes a condition of continued employment, or 2) the conduct is severe or pervasive enough to create a work environment that a reasonable person would consider intimidating, hostile, or abusive.” See: https://www.eeoc.gov/laws/types/harassment.cfm

These videos provide some examples of what harassment might look like in practice: https://www.facebook.com/thatsharassment/videos/1653475628000112/ https://www.facebook.com/thatsharassment/videos/1653474914666850/ https://www.facebook.com/thatsharassment/videos/1653472278000447/ https://www.facebook.com/thatsharassment/videos/1653470471333961/ https://www.facebook.com/thatsharassment/videos/1653469821334026/ https://www.facebook.com/thatsharassment/videos/1653469414667400/

Consequences for Employees Failure to understand these definitions does not preclude employees from responsibility or consequences for acting in a harassing or discriminatory manner. Any employee found to be acting inappropriately toward a fellow employee or client, student, or guest will be subject to disciplinary action including without limitation immediate termination of employment, reporting to appropriate professional associations, and/or legal consequences.

Consequences for Clients Jackson Hole Mountain Guide’s clients, students, and guests are also expected to act in a manner that is respectful to JHMG employees and other clients, students, and guests, as stated in the acknowledgement of risk that all of these individuals sign. Employees are expected to create a group culture on trips, clinics, and other programs that helps to mitigate the possibility of harassment and discrimination among our clients, students, and guests. However, while employees can influence clients' actions, they cannot control them. None of our guides or clients should have to contend with a client who acts in a harassing manner. Should a client act inappropriately toward an employee or other client, The Mountain Guides reserves the right to remove such client(s) from a trip in the most expedient manner possible. The Mountain Guides further reserves the right to refuse to do business with these clients in the future.

Reporting and Investigations The Mountain Guides’ management supports its employees in their efforts to recognize and eliminate harassment. The Mountain Guides encourages all employees to report incidences of harassment as soon as possible, via [reporting mechanism(s)]. Upon notification, The Mountain Guides will accept a formal complaint, investigate the harassment, and take appropriate action to eliminate it. Complaints and investigations will be kept as confidential as possible. The Mountain Guides management will not retaliate against complainants and will work to prevent or mitigate potential retaliation from other employees.

Outside Assistance Should an employee have concerns about harassment or discrimination by The Mountain Guides management or owners, whether inadvertent or intentional, they are encouraged to report such concerns to The Mountain Guides management as soon as possible (see above). Upon being apprised of any concerns, management will take all necessary steps to rectify the concern. Employees may also exercise their legal rights to the fullest extent permitted by law, including without limitation the right to seek and/or retain counsel, participate in mediation, arbitration, or litigation, file a police report/initiate criminal proceedings, and/or report the incident to the U.S. Equal Employment Opportunity Commission or the [appropriate state agency]: https://www.eeoc.gov/eeoc/newsroom/wysk/harassed_at_work.cfm https://www.eeoc.gov/employees/howtofile.cfm https://www.eeoc.gov/field/phoenix/index.cfm

Should employees experience harassment by a coworker or colleague who is an AMGA member, they may also report such violations of the AMGA Code of Ethics to the AMGA Professional Compliance Committee at [email protected]. Further information is available at the AMGA website: https://amga.com/code-of-ethics-conduct/

[ONLY FOR THOSE GUIDE SERVICES HOLDING USFS PERMITS: Employees may also report harassment to the U.S. Forest Service Harassment Reporting Center, which accepts calls from 7:00am to 11:00pm Eastern Time seven days a week, at: (844) 815-8943. For further information, see: https://www.fs.fed.us/inside-fs/harassment-reporting-center-now-available]