Alpine accidents of the past season

Autor(en): [s.n.]

Objekttyp: Article

Zeitschrift: The Swiss observer : the journal of the Federation of Swiss Societies in the UK

Band (Jahr): - (1936)

Heft 782

PDF erstellt am: 25.09.2021

Persistenter Link: http://doi.org/10.5169/seals-695943

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http://www.e-periodica.ch November, 7th, 1936. THE SWISS OBSERVER. 2065

ALPINE ACCIDENTS OF THE PAST SEASON. results, and which caused the death of two young CONCERT NEWS. Disasters Due to Bad Luck and Bad Management. men last year, is merely a variation upon that of 1932 with the supposed merit of being more O. F. Meade. By obviously in the centre of the face. In the attempt that was made this summer the four Of this year's Alpine accidents only two of assailants were stimulated by the ambition to win the instances mentioned here seem to have been the Olympic medal awarded to the desperate due to bad lack rather than to mismanagement. pioneers of the uew route on the in Owing to sheer bad lock a Swiss party was over- 1932. All four perished in spite of the most taken by an avalanche on the magnificent Guggi strenuous attempts to save them made by self- ice-route on the Interlaken face of the , sacrificing guides. when the famous guide Fritz Steuri was seriously Now as the ascent of the north face might injured in the rescue work that ensued; again on conceivably be successful if there were four or the Dent Blanche bad luck may have played a part five days of continuous fine weather, and as such when Mr. Geoffrey C. Gregson with the guide, a spell of fine weather could never be relied on, Raymond Cottier, and porter, Theytaz, perished least of all during last July, it is scarcely sur- by falling through the cornice. In this case, prising that the Swiss Federal Council has however, some may question the prudence of tak- adopted the rather forlorn expedient of prohibit- ing the Viereselsgrat route in such a snowy year, ing all further attempts. It is hoped that the when the elaborate cornices on this ridge are edict may at least do something to discredit the fairly certain to be in their most dangerous con- enterprise, and that even the most infatuated ditiou. climbers will hesitate before running the grave Such a season as occurred this summer was risk of involving with themselves in common bound to be bad for the Matterhorn, of course. destruction the gallant professionals who can Many novices who are keen to ascend this classical always be counted on to hasten to the rescue. peak have no idea that the standard of climbing (77fe Field). on it may vary between extremes of easiness and difficulty according to the character of the season and that when the mountain is at its easiest the NEWS FROM THE COLONY. risk of falling stones is at its greatest, for the rocks are then less firmly cemented together with ice and snow. In any case stones dislodged by CITY SWISS CLUB. climbers inexperienced are at all times a clanger Monthly Meeting. to be reckoned with. Consequently it is better to be the first party and the last to come down. up Carmen Hagmann. This summer two climbers who had omitted The Monthly Meeting of the City Swiss Club to take their ice-axes with them disappeared dur- took place on Tuesday last at I'agani's, over 40 On Thursday next, November 12th, Mme. ing the descent at about a quarter of an hour's members and friends being present. distance below the summit. A have Carmen Hagmann from Zurich will give a song slip must P. President of the occurred, for the two bodies Mr. F. Boehringer, Club, recital at the Grotrian Hall, Wigmore Street, W. were afterwards seen informed the members about the lying 4,000ft. below on the Furggen Glacier. arrangements Mme. Hagmann, who belongs to the younger which have been made by the Committee for the of well-known " Lieder " singers in While a search was out for generation party looking Annual Banquet and Ball, which is taking place herself to the London them a young English lady was killed on the , will present on Friday, November 27tli, at the Grosvenor concert public with a very attractive programme. same mountain by a falling stone which swept House. her down the precipice and severed the rope that We hope that the members of the Swiss united her with her The On the conclusion of the official part of the Colony in London, will attend in great numbers companions. rope was the President M. said to be defective. On the Allalinhorn in- Meeting, introduced, Goby this very promising recital of our compatriote, two the well-known Swiss humorist from experienced climbers were killed in Wälder, and thus give her the welcome which she fully consequence who recited of his works in of a slip by the leader. Zurich, some own deserves. " Schwyzerdütsch," which earned great applause. Another disaster occurred on the Macugnaga face of , once ascended by the present LETTERS TO THE EDITOR. One of the features of the Pope, This route lias always had a great reputa- CONCERT. our paper in past tion for danger, and the notorious Marinelli has been the " Editor's Postbag " column, which couloir has to be crossed, followed by a snow and Marietta and Martha Amstad. is at all times open to correspondents. ice climb lasting for about ten hours as far as Unfortunately of late some of our correspon- the top of the , which is the highest dents have introduced in their statements a rather peak in the massif. The dangers can certainly be Marietta and Martha Amstad gave a song too personal note, which is to be regretted for minimised by choosing the right moment in the recital on Tuesday last, at 3, Porehester Terrace, more than one reason. and right season, a season following a period of W.2 (by kind permission of Mrs. Mudie Cooke). The Editor would greatly appreciate if abnormally abundant snow is likely to be favour- The sisters Amstad with criticism of articles utterances in able. the sang grace, expres- or published However, two victims of this accident sion and sentiment duets of Italian, English, this by would be correspondents, would loaded the dice themselves. When the paper against French, Swiss and German composers, which confine themselves to the facts or merits of the weather turned bad, and a climber who solitary greatly charmed the audience. Marietta and cause in dispute, leaving out personal allu- had accompanied them from the hut any Marinelli Martha Amstad are delightful singers, who excell sions, however witty or sarcastic they might seem wisely decided to retreat, they refused to do like- in musical their art is especially well- to the writer. wise, and bivouacked taste, deliberately in a crevasse. suited to the style of the old music. The two The next day. having reached a great height, soprano voices go very well together, and are EDITOR'S POSTBAG. they failed to find their way on to the rocks of the equally well-trained, they are undoubtedly past and Dufourspitze, attempted to make a short cut mistresses of the " bel canto " and the music of London, November 3rd. 1936. into Switzerland by crossing the Colle Zumstein. the epoch. To the Editor, below the watershed a have Only 150ft, slip must The contained a number of old " Swiss Observer," happened, to fresh the programme probably owing snow on Swiss Folksongs which were warmly applauded 23, Leonard Street, E.C.2. ice. and they fell. One was and the killed, sur- by a large audience, and the great success they vivor a second without his Dear Sir, spent night out, axe, obtained was well merited. The accompaniment and with the body of his In issue of the 31st nit. allowed Mr. companion suspended of some of the was perhaps a little bit too your you on the below him. After three whole songs E. Werner, — not to give his own views about the rope days forceful, but on the whole Christine Ratcliffe at without food — for only one meal had been car- Swiss franc devaluation but to exercise the piano gave an excellent performance. Many —, ried — he was reached by a of guides decidedly unfair sarcasm at Mr. Wüthrich's ex- gallant party of the were encored. was certainly a joy from songs It pressed opinion on this subject. know Macugnaga. to listen to these charming and highly talented I I am Unfortunately, however, while the guides artistes. speaking the mind of a good few — possibly the were lowering the injured man down the funnel majority of the long-resident Swiss here in Lon- They sang at Mme. Paravicini's " At Home " of the Marinelli couloir, an avalanche came down don, — when I protest against this distasteful on Thursdav last, at the Legation. and swept him, together with the to the treatment of Mr. Wüthrich's sincerely stated corpse, ST. views. bottom of the couloir. Still alive, he was seen by a guide in the Marinelli hut and dragged to That, in addition, Mr. Werner has chosen to to die a few later in speak on behalf of the Swiss in London safety, only days hospital. A FINNISH FILM AT THE " ACADEMY." Colony In connection with this accident it is worth is nothing short of arrogance and I hope, that on he take noting that even in a favourably snowy year, " Fredlös " — The Outcast. reconsideration, will an early opportunity when avalanches fall infrequently in the couloir, of apologizing both to Mr. Wtithrich and to the of Swiss here and the normal sources appear to be quiescent, prepondering mass in London, who " to honour whom avalanches are always liable to be started by the This story of a Russian governor's tyrranous are still prepared give to unpredictable breaking off of the cornices on the and cruel reign in Finland at the end of the last honour is due " and remain — as true Swiss should summit ridge of the Nordend, an origin that is too is dished much in the old con- — ever grateful to Mr. Wüthrich for his century up very and services the im- far up the mountain to be adequately observed ventional style of melodrama. The bold bad long signal to one of most Swiss from below. villain is once again displayed in the familiar portant Export Industries. Finally we come to , over guise, devouring food in bestial quantities, sur- Yours faithfully, shadowed by the ghastly tragedy on the north rounded by wine, women and song, and finally sig. W. F. Gattifcer. face of the . Even before the attack on the chasing the heroine around the table in the grand mountain itself had begun, disaster had occurred seduction scene, interrupted, of course, at the GROTRIAN HALL to two of the young men who had aspired to this crucial moment by the hero's triumphant arrival. Wigmore Street, London, W.I. expedition. On a training climb on the exacting For all this the film is an honest and sincere Guggi route of the Jungfrau two of them had piece of work, and the interest is held throughout. CARMEN HAGMANN fallen, one of them being killed and the other The acting is of a very high standard particularly SONG RECITAL. gravely injured. that of the two lovers played by Sten Lindgren Thursday next, November 12th. at 8.30. It must not be supposed that the attempts to and Gull -maj. Norin. They have both great climb the north face of the Eiger are a novelty. In power and utter simplicity. Pianoforte : IRMA 1932 a comparatively safe route up the north face The scenes of their wanderings and those of SCHAICHET. was successfully accomplished by a Swiss party of the peasant's life in Lapland all bear the stamp Qrotrian-Steinweg Piano/orte. four, amateurs and professionals, one of the of and the whole is genuinse reality, film of a Tickets 9/-. 6/-, 3/- from Hall, usual Agents and strongest parties ever got together. The route rugged force which is extremelv refreshing. Ibbs & Tillett, 124, St., London, that was attempted this year with such fatal S.F. Wigmore W.I.