INDE

>. TO THE ALPINE JO NAL

VoIs. 39 to 5 1927 to 195

Printed by SPOTTISWOODE, BALLANTYNE &: CO. LTD. LONDON & COLCH~STE 1954 PREF.AC 1

THE present volume carries the Index to t e"ALPI E JOURNALfrom Volumes 39 to 58, covering the years 1927 to 195 .

The basis of the Index was the indices 0 the co ponent volumes, but brought into conformity with the In ex to olumes 16 to 38, published in 1929. The pro}Josa} for a continuation of th conso dated Index was put forward late in 1949 and continue to b urged until, in December 1950, Mr. D. 1!'. O. Dangar un ertook to make a start. Ultimately, the great bulk of the work fell 0 him nd proved to be much more arduous than had been env sa.ged, as the previous indexing of many of the volumes was so de ective at most of them had to be re-done entirely. The thanks of the Club are due to Mr. angar for his unsparing work in bringing this task to a conclusion; to M . S. de V. Merri- man for help in the earlier stages; to Mr.. sanSferino for help in proof-reading; and to all others who hav co-op ated with them in the undertaking. E.. HERBERT, President.

I

I

! IlST OJ? ABB. I~VI

A.C. = Alpine Club• .C. = Mountain Club. A.A.C. = American Alpine t. = Mount, Mont. Club. e. = Monte. A.B.M.S.A.C. = Association of ts. = Mountains. British Members N Z. = New ZCl~land. of Swiss Alpine bit. = obituary. Club. k. = Peak. Aig. = AiguilIe. p rt. = portrait. art. = article. t. = Point. asc. = ascent. P a. = Punta. A.T.C. =. Air Training Corps. P, . = Pointe. C.A.l!'. = Club Alpin J<'ran9ais. R.q.S. = Royal GeograpWcal a.A.I. = Club Alpino Italiano. Society. cr. = crossed, crossing. r v. = review. D.A.V. = Deutscher Alpen S.A C. = Schweizer Alpen Verein. Club. D.Oe.A.V. = Deutscher und S.MjC. = Scottish Ocsterreicbischer , Mountaineering Alpen Vercin. , Club. dese. = descent; r. = traverse, traversed. Di. = Diebel. U.M C. = University G.H.M. = Groupe de Haute Mountaineering Montagne. Club. gl. = glacier. v 1. = volume. ill. = illustration. 2

Aitchison, I. G. : rev. of British Ski Year Book, 1944,55 lI5 48 368 The Complete Ski Ma.nual, 51 276 obit. of H.W. Hoek, 58 403 Aitchison, P. M.: obit., 56 76 Aitken, S.: death, 41 218, 259 Akeley, Carl (naturalist): 54 357 Akka (Lapland): ill., 50 249 Abollal (Morocco): asc.,45 108, 113 Ala Dag, expeditions to: 54203,235,5545,222 ill., 54 238-41, 55 48-53 Alam Kuh (Persia) : asc., 47 303, 49 245-6 Alas~a (see also Special List) : at OSphOl'icpressure on summits, 43 227 bib.iography of articles on mountaineering in,51220 1st ascs. in, dates and A. J. refs., 50 95 glacier recession in, 52 285 heights of mts in, 43 74 n. Alaska Range: 47 17 ill., 44 274 Alba~a: mts of, art. & ills., 42 55 obit., 43 353 Albal.lOn: asc., 51 206 AlbeJ:fuI, H.M. King (of Belghun) : alpine career, 46 279 death, 46 i memorial to & ill., 50 316 me!Uorial service,·46·207 obituary verse to, 46 207 port. presented to A.C., 46 404 poJt1;s.,43 380, 46 279 AlbCIjt, Pic (Chamonix): desc. by W. face, 45406 Albigna gl.: ill., 39 317,46 63 Alcantara, Mt (Canada): 1st asc., 42 70 ill., 42 72 Alcazaba: ill., 40 41 Alcove: 1st winter asc., 55 40 tr., 65 42 Aldridge, E. A. : obit. of G. W. Lloyd, 46 181 death, 50 142, 184 Aletschhorn : asc.,47134 1st by S.E. face, 41 403, 42 16 from N., 48172 by the Hasler rib, 65 353 in winter, 54 28 tr.,43 121,44 337, 49269 1st tr. of section of S.E. ridge, 51 148 ill. from S (1929 route), 42 16 from Sparrhorn, 43 41 Aletsch glacier: accidents, 43 188, 50 327 Alexander, H.: his book: The Cairngorms, 40427 Alexander, H.M. King (of Yugoslavia): death, 46 404 Alexander, R. F.: death, 51 341 Alexander, Mt (Canada): ill., 39 56 Algie, R. M.: obit. of H. F. Wright, 51 309 Alja!, Fat,her: death, 39 332 Allain, P.: his book: Alpiuisme et Com- petition, 57 433 3

Alpine Club: Alpine 0 b obitu ry: address to: 45 156 397 2 128, 283 Edward VIII, 48 i 46 206 403 369, 169,264,,386 Queen Mary, 48 ii 47148 367 77,200,307,437 Queen Elizabeth II, 58 289 48 179, 359 5 100,215,314,425 Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother, 49 121, 271 56 78. 184, 285, 403 58290 50 142 316 67 95, 255,417, 566 addresses by Presidents: 51 136 325 58 126, 269, 406, 532 Morse,411 Alpine b Pensi n Fund: Wilsoll, 44 1 56 285 313, 4 ,57 102, 261, 422, 574, Withers, 47 1 '58 iv . Strutt, 50 1 Alpine 01 b Prem s: Schuster, 53 1 491 0,5010 Young, 54 215 ill., 50144-5,3.0-1 Amery,561 Alpine 0 b-Que n Mary, visit of, 41 6 Longstaff, 57 281 Alpine C lb proc ings: American members, 39 169,41 237,53 72 39 204 385 150, 309 gift of ambulances, 52 298, 53 69, 389 40217 456 0 183, 363 Alpine Club dinners : 41 257 450 1 172, 352 39205 48 219 42 160 374 ~2 167,297 40219 49151 43 218 427 . 3 86, 183, 279, 403 41258 50184 44 173, "383 4 94, 211, 333, 455 42 161 51 173,325 45 196 428 5 lI8, 340, 44.0 43 220 55 341 46 274 452 696, 202, 307, 418 44174 5697 47 194 401 7 123, 279, 441, 596 45 198 57 124, 279, 442 48 218 403 i, vi 46 276 58 after 288, after 553 Alpine C b War emorial: &8 136 47195 ill.,58 37 Alpine Club exhibitions-photographic: Alpine m ps, of A gidius Tsohudi: 46146 39 119, 205 48 145, 219 Alpine M stioism, 51 284 40 146, 218 51 173 Alpine ritanis, 57 341 41 169, 258 56 97 Alpine U lift: 5~'257' 341, 564, 573 (see 42 161, 263 57385 also 47 47) 44 96,174 58384 Alpinism, III' C ngres International d' : 46156 44 340 Alpine Club exhibitions-piotures : Alpinism , IV' Co re., International d' : . 39 294, 385 43 154, 219 45 403 40 362 45 132, 197 Alps (see lso Ita ' n Alps) : 41 379 47 130, 195 new fi ntiers in 40 292 Alpine Journal: East , 46 74, 0 82, 53 338 250th numbeT, 47149 Italian oommiss on on division of, 40 177 editorship, 49 271 A hyd graphio approaoh to the, 57 352, format & type, 48 179 581 ,330 printing & publioation, 44 6,53 386, 54 109 Seaso in the: annual summary: reduction in size, 53 69, 54 269 1939: 52 138, Alpine Club library, additioJlJl to: 39 191, 369 49 141, 302 1948:1949: 5767 2589~ 40435 50 169, 356 1950: 58131 41 245, 446 51 165, 349 1951: &8270 42 149 52 159, 294 Alpspitze: ill., 46 76-7 43 206, 420 53 84, 182, 278, 401 Altels : 44 162, 379 54 89, 210, 331, 453 by N.E faoe, 154, 48 351 45 184, 421 55 116,229, 337, 437 .. ,43 17 46 245, 438 56 92, 199, 305, 416 N.E. face (18 4 & 1932 routes), 47 154 47 182, 392 67 121, 276, 438, 594 N.E. face (19 6 route), 48 348-9 48 210, 390 58 after 154 . Altels gla 'er: 40 84 Alpine Club library, removal of, 51 136 Altin-Ma ar (Pam' ): ill., 51 36 Alpine Club lunches: 53 87, 280 Ama Dri e (Him laya): ill., 48 2 Alpine Club membership, some statistios of, Am Bas . : ill., 265 67 100, 58 127 Amateurs and Gui es, mutual responsibility: , Alpine Club obituary : 43323 39 144, 328 42 119, 336 matter, ritz: t 40 177, 398 43 179, 381 oareer port., 163 41 218, 418 44 131, 329 death, 404

,I 4 INDEX TO VOLUtES 39 ~ 58 Amedeo, Pic Luigi: ill S.1<;.face, 45 248 eroid : America: 14,000' pks in, 41 338· he Pauli, 40 360 American Alpine Club: Handbook ofMolln. atoh ty 0,42293 taineering, 54206 n (N.' .): 5th MC., 49 94 AmerioanAlpineJournal:rev.ofNo.l,41445 An , N. his book: Leslie Stephen, his Amery, L. C. M. S. : hought nd Character in relation to his , Off da.yson an Empire tour,' 40 108 ime, 68 19 'A month in the Canadian Rockies,' 4232 An apurna 'A note on the Bavarian Alps,' 47 344 at asc., 572,68155 'A note on the Dachstein range,' 49 242 Iso Imol 11 as Morslriadi,68 256 'A note on the Julian Alps,' 49 104 i l., 58 16 'The Eastern limestone Alps,' SO 82 An Iapurna V: attempt & ill., 58 103 , Mountain warfare,' 54 413 An n: note: climbs in the Canadian Rockies, 41 ietschh 11 (S.E. arete), 45 140 429 otes 011 effects duo to rarit.y of the air poem: 'Sursum cor,' 50 278 when t aining [by O. K. Williamson}, valedictory address: 56 1 48 137 his books: Days of Fresh Air, 52 143 An erne, Co d': accident, 45 167 In the Rain and the Sun, 56 85 An aCs(N .• ): asc., 42 348 rev. of: Son of the Mountains, 50 154 An evui, J n: death, 55 427 Je~n Antoine Carrel, 57 117 Ao ach Beg: iiI., 54 128 Cliimbsin the Canadian Rockies, 58 145 Ao ach Mot: iiI.,54 128 Eell Halve Eeeuw Nederland's Alpin- Ao ta, Val '.: place llames in, 52 131 lsme, 58 552 Ao kenet ( oggar): asc., 58 271 obit. of: R. C. Gilson, 51 121 . Ap nnines: 55 105, 56 108 Lord Tweedsmuir, 52 122 Ap rer Frei er: ill., 41 290 Josef Pollinger, 54 303 Ar de, Cim d': by S. faoll,43 362 A. O. Wheeler, 55 205 Arat : C. R. Paravicini, 56.266 os.,48 1,53230 E. L. Strutt, 58 396 ' oall's a k,' 51 41 J. C. Smuts, 57 557 Arc , the (1 ashgar): 56227 Amery, Mt (Canada): i .,6623 named, 40 199 Ar er, C. 1st II$c.,41 429, 42 37 ' OlUecli bs in Korea,' 43 103 m. from N.W., 42 34 r v. of Sc ambles in Japall and Formosa, Amiguet, P.: his book: Teohniqne et 47 Hl9 Poesie de la Montagne, 48 388 Ar ic: asp cts of mountaineering in the, Amnyi Machin: 45 160, 55 320 5 182 Arnone, Brecha de 1': tr. to Aig. du Triolet, Are izas alt , Collada de (Spain): 46 66 41 430 Arg ntiere, iguille d' : AlUpato: S.E. face, 1st direct asc., 68 135 a eidents: 1931: 43 407 Amstutz, W. : 1934: 414 'The Punta Minuta from the North and a os.: bY~' face, 51321,58411 other Corsioanascents,' 45142 1st by, .S.W. (du Jardin) arete, 55 108 his book: Ski.iug from A-Z, 61 161 t . 1st ove FMeheRousse, 55 281 . Anchorite (Canada): asc., 55 40 i1., 40 14 N. face (1939route), 51 322 Andenmatten, Franz: correct spelling of, Arg ent, Fuo cia: 56 427 S slope, 4 26 n. Anderegg, Melohior: 1 t cr., 45 99 the story 'lch gehe nicht,' 53 81, 175,268 Arg ent, Piz asc., 43 26 his association with Almer, 65 249 Ari ,Aiguill des: 1st asc. by N. face, 39 132 port., 55 252 Ar ontall ( aucasus): 1st.asc. & tr., 48 115 Anderson, J. S.: obit. & port., 43 161 Ar ud. J.: eath, 51 148 Andrews, A. W. : A and Ch let, Col: Blodig's asc. & dcsc. , The Novitiate,' 54 33 0 N.E. sl e, 45 161 his book: Selected Poems, 54 88 Ax andy, A.: his book: Terre de Suspicion, obit. of J. C. Morland, 52 277 3 189 O. K. Williamson,53 261 Am, Dr. P. death, 48179, 220 J. B. Farmer, 54 310 Am Id, H. J L.: obit. & port., 41196 M. K. Smith, 55 298 Aro a, Pigne~.d' : Andromeda (Canada): b N. face 55429 asc., 55 39 tr EAV., 5 399 t.r., 56 43 Ars ndaux, obi: death, 43 407 ill., 55 33 Art· on Raju (Andes): 45 42

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Arves, Aiguilles d' : some notes & memories, 40 12 tr. of the three pIts., 41 408, 44 208 S. aiguille: It note on, 41 367 accident: 1927: 39 344 lll!C.,40 9, 402 from La Grave, 57 418 1st nsc. by W. face, 44 301 ill., 40 18, 19,44 304. S. a.iguille,,S.W. face, 40 9: E. face, 40 15, 41 368: W. face (1928 & 1932 routes), 44 303: three pks. from the E., 40 14 Arwa Valley: ill., Pk. 21,800', 43 302 Ascherson, C. S.: obit., 55 298 Ashanger An (Hindu Kush): cr., 48 124 Ashby; R. C.: note: Earth tremors at Pontresinn, 39 338 Ashford, C. E.: obit. of R. C. Gilson, 51 124 Asparagus group: ill., 39 231 Aspiring, Mt (N.Z.): lll!CS.,42 348, 4389, 93, 99,58217 ilL, 43 100-1 Assam Himalava: art. & ill., 52 53 Assekrar (Hoggar): asc., 58 271 BAOHJ\1NN, M.: death, 53 ]73 Assinihoine, Mt (Canada) : Backho se, H.: death, 48 359, 404 asc., 42 70, 46 85 Bacone, Piz : tr., 58535 asc., 64 Astoria Valley: lIL, 55 32 1st • by S. 'dge, 65 15 . Astrid, H.M. Queen (of Belgium): death, Badile. iz: 47367 acoid nts: 19 2: 49 68 Asulkan gl. (Canada): retreat of, 44 266 19.7: 49 286 Atar Plll!S(Chitral): cr., 47 319 ascs., 54 137 Athabaska, Mt (Canada) : by . arl:\te, 42 342, 48 253, 50 321,52 asc.,55 68 1 9 tr., 66 39, 44 by .E. fac ,49 286, 57 44:5,58 131 ill., 56 64 1st 'nter, 0321 Athabaslm Valley: ill.,48 380 llano escape on, 40 184 Athos, Mt: aBC.,58 206 N. ar te: Me.. (soo above) Atlas Mts (Morocco): 40 221, 43 147, 46 96 his ry,48 51 ill., 40 231-3,43 147,45 96-117 KI oker's 0 inion of, 53 19 Aufdenblatten, Adolf: death, 54 315 route on, va . us, 55 16 Auldjo, John : S. bu tress: d so. by, 48 254 aBC.of Mt Blanc, 55 122 struo by ligh ning on, 49 65, 55 18 life & career, 58 459 tr. N. S., 47 1 I) ros book, 58 463 ill., 253,67448 port., 58 459 frO! Val B dasca, 39 121 Auras, Dj. (N. Africa): 1st cr., 45 149 fro Sciara ut, 48 252 Auronzo Valley: ill., 52 1 N. uttress, 49 65 Ausangate (Peru): attempts, 58 135 Badilet, Piz : Austahottind : 1st lll! .,41 37 ,45 195 aBc.,40171 ill.,4 374-5 ill., 40 176 Badrina h Pks: ill., 43 299, 50 67 Austria: post-war impressions, 56 221 Badrina h Rang : exploration of (Tilman & Avalanches: Ship n), 47 6 physical characteristics of snolV,41 88 Bad Sw t glacio (Hindu Kush): 46 349 snowcra.ft &, 56 ]20 . Baffin av: art. & ill., 47 49 on Kangchenjunga., 42 212 Bagini ass (Hi~alaya): cr., 49 33 in the Pazieltal, 39 171 Bagirat . (Him~',aya): ill., 51 80, 83 upper Grindelwald gl., in 1787,40275 Bagsha , T. ",.: his book: Two men in wind sla.h, 41 92 the A tarctic, 2291 , on pk. in Arwa valley, 43 305 Bagwell .J.: obi., 56 75 near Panjtarni, 44 351 Bailey, .: ~ in Scotland, 45 265 'The relll!ure of the Humble,' 50 189 in the Obersulztal, 47 322 rev. 0 Alpes e France; 1. Savoie, 50 341

I I I ------.---.----1-+------I 6 INDEX TO VOLUA ES 39 tJ 58 Bailey, E. P.: his hook: Tectonic ellBays, mainly Alpine, 48 201 BanN ,face:Les: I" Bainbridge.Bell, F. 0.: obit. & 110rt.,40 365 asc., 46 64, 46 61 Baines, E.: death, 39 353 3rd desc , 54 253 Baker, G. P. : ill, 52 12 • Crete (1925, 1926, 1927).' 40243 N. face 1933 route), 46 364 , The High Atlas and Marrakech: a note,' Bar mcier ( indu Kush): 46 131 43 147 Bar Itoli Pk. (Garhwal): asc., 56 293 'Mountaineering memories of the past,' Bar erine L e: ill., 49 172 53229,331 Ba. onnechi : accident near, 43 188 his hook: Mot1ntaineering memories ofthe Bar sley, C. port., 48 332 past, 58 282 Ba tti, Pun : ill., 45 241 rev. of The Valley of Flowers, 50 338 Bar rd, J.. Q. : obit. of J. S. Anderson, 43 161 , he use f the rope in rock climbing,' O. E. Shea, 43 345 384 H. C. Baker, 47 132 h' book: Climbing in Britain, 65 434 G. Yeld, 50 279 re . of Gui e du Massif des Ecrius, 55 435 H. Corravon, 51314 es Ai illes Rouges, 55 435 his 90th birthday, 55 316 d ath,56 90 climbs with Alois Pollinger, 57 530 o it. & po ., 56 178 elected hon. member of Alpine Club, Bar er, A. E : 55426 o it., 51 3 7, 52 132 obit. &; port., 58 391 P rt.,51 3 7 Baker, 11I.C.: obit. & port., 47 132 Bar er boots: 45 295 Baker, W. M. : Bar] w, Mt ( nada): climbs with Alois Pollinger, 57 527 1 asc., 79, 169 obit., 47 352 ill ,,43 78 ports., 47 353, 57 626 Bar es, G. S.: obit. & port., 58 71 Baker's Saddle (N.Z.): cr., 54 272, 275 Ba , A.: eath, 39328,40 217 Bakewell, R.: travels in the Graians, 58 158 Ba so, Pic del: asc. ofN.W. pk., 58 409 Bakhtiari Mts (Persia) : Bar w, W.: obit. of A. Hackett, 65 89 art. & ill., 46 351 Bar ,M.: Q. of Mt Blanc, 47 369 correspondence, etc., 47 400 Bit , R. M. V.: death, 60 151 BalbaJa (Himamya): asc., 58 188. Bart eet, A.. : obit. & port., 60 125 Balfour, F. M.: death, 57 529 Bart m,G .. : obit.ofW.R.Reade,55321 Balfour, Lord: death, 55 103 B rdjusi ( ucasus): asc., 53 236 Balfour, Mt (Canada): aso., 46 84, 55 67 B '1 Pass ( aucasus): 1st cr., 42 105 Balfrin: asc., 58 30 B . tau (C ucasus): 1st asc., by S.W. BalI, Cima di: tr., 53 354 arte,4237 BalI, J.: travels in the Graians, 56 254 B ka·auz· ashi (Caucasus): tr., 47 Ill) Ball, W. A. R.: obit. of G. S. Provis,57 90 B t,A.: Balmat, Jacques: ports., 41 1 ob t. of H. oos, 51 334 BaJmhom: d th, 58 2 9 aso.,43 133 Bat ,R. H.: his book: Five miles high, by E. face, 49 273 53180 byN. face, 48 352 Bat m Pk. (qaucasus): asc., 46 292 ill., 43 U7 Ba.n 1',P.: I. E. face (1937 route), 49 274 , ngchen unga, 1929. The Bavarian N. face (1935 route), 48 352 ttempt, 42 73 Balmhom, Klein: asc., 43 133 , IeFight rKartgchenjunga,1929,'42185 BaJtar VaJley (HinduKusl1) : ill.,46 134, 138 angchen unga, 1931: the' second Baltoro glacier peaks: ill., 51 70 avarian attempt,' 44 13 BaJzetto, Piz: from the W., 49 120 e Ger an Sikkim expedition, 1936,' Bandar Punch: 941 reconnaissance & attempts, 65 173, 56 246 su mary 0 Nanga Parbat disaster, 1937, White Pk., 1st.asc., 58 249 225 ill. summit, 55 182, 184 his books: Jm Kampf UUl den Himalaja, from S., 58 252 43 192 from E., 58 253 m den antsch: der zweite Deutsche Bankeidai, Mt (Korea): 43 105 Angri auf den Kangchelldzollga, Bannie. Mt (N.Z.): 3rd asc., 41 313 1931, 170 BailS, Les: uf Kun faJlrt in Himalaja, 50 158 aso., 44 207, 52 11 ohi . of K. 'ien, 49 265 attempt, 52 2Il aw ded 01 mpic Gold Medal, 44 344 INDEX ']'0 VOLUME 7 Bavarian Alps: 47 344 Bell, J. H. B.: L Bazuki Parbat (Himalaya): ill., 51 80-1, 83 Ilis ok: A IL'rogressin Mountaineering, Bean, Dr.: ice-axe found, 39 153 137 Beast of the Valais: 56292 (w th other): British Hills and Moun- Beaufoy, M.: asc. of Mt Blano, 57 313 ains,52 88 Beaufoy, Mrs. M.: her MS. Journal, 40 261 Bell, M (Callad ): attempt, 47 298 Beauman, E. B. : Bell PI . (N.Z.): 1st asc., 41 234 , Short summary of the Kamet expedition, Bell, .: his b ok: Mountains beneath the 1931,' 43 306 Ho' n,5755 'A orossing of the Coast Rangtl of British Bellav' ta, Mt ( reenland): 1st aso., 51 110 Columbia,' 47 75 Bellavi ta Satte : ill., 43 284 , The Matterhorn couloir by night,' 52 97 Belle E oile, Ai iIIe de la: 45 370 note: Pomagagnon, 49 273 ill., 365 " rev. of An Alpine Journey, 47 181 Belle e Basti n: ill., 44 200-1 Switzerland and the English, 54 450 Bellow, W.: . Berge der Welt, II, 58 303 'A tr verse a the Matterhorn,' 54 389 On Rook and Ice, 56 303 note de Sa sure's chalet at Breuil,43 The Unknown Mountain, 56 412 18 Alpes Vaudoises, 67 271 obit. of G. R ,48 155 obit. of Lord David Douglas-Hamilton, obit. 54 72 54436 port. 54 75 F. S. Smythe, &7232 Benede ti, E. : COUJ.ltA. de Suzannet, 58 113 'An asoent Matterhorn by the Beaumont, Pte.: (Dent de Feuestrale) : ggen ri ge,' 43 58 E. face, deso., 40 391, 41 71 , Ma terhorn lnthe South Face,' 44 69 ill., E, face, 41 7:J Ben Gl aig: r" 53 360 Beaumont, R. I•. : death, 50 317 Ben N vis: asl" 44 202, 45 264, 56 31 Bechtold, F. : ill., 260-1, 54 128-9 • Nanga Parbat, 1938,' 51 70 Benne, J. J.: orrect spelling, 55 427 his books: Deutsche am Nanga Parbat: Bennin on Pea (Canada): der Angriff, 1934,47166 1st c., 40 1 7 Na.nga Pa-rbat Adventure, 47 390 atte pt, 55 4 obit. ofW. Merld, 47 136 ill., 33 Beckey, F.: • New olimbs in the Alaska Benso C. E.: his book: Mountaineering Coast Range,' 66 139 Vent res, 41 40 Booching, H. A.: obit. & port., 50 288 Benuz " F.: hi book: No Pionic on Mount Beerenberg (.TanMayon Island) : Ken, a, 5843 1st aBC.,42 242 Berang r, Aigui Ie de: aso.,52 14 2nd aso., 45 395, 46 39 Bere, . M.: 1938 expedition to, 61 18 'A PUsh aso t of the East face of Mount ill., 46 39, 51 22-8 St nley, R wenzori,' 54 275 Beb Brakai Chok, Pk. (Hunza): 46 133 , Ru nzor!. Mounts Stanley and Speke,' Bel Alp: early expeditions from, 56 347 55257 Belay, the sna.p-link pulley: 68382 'Th explora' on of the Ruwenzori,' 58483 Beloher, H. W.: obit., 58 267 Beres£, rd, S.: bit. of P. S. Whelan, 54 68 Belgrat-Unterbachhorn ridge; 46 220 Berg g ier (Ca ada): retreat of, 44 27~ Bell. G. (Miss) : Berg. i Kamp um den: reviewed, 46 226 'Lea Ecrins and Mont Pelvoux,' 39242 Berg L ke: ill, 43 262, 44 270 'Dauphine and the AiguiIle Meridionale Berge or Welt 1947 reviewed, 56 303 d'Arves in 1899,' 40 3 note on the t five volumes, 58219 'Aiguilles des Drus and Lauteraltrhorn,' 1951 reviewe ,58 429 40 234 ' Bergen Johann van: 43 180 'Conoerning Mountains die Engel- Bergsc runds: '11.,44206-7 horner,' 41 21 Berna ikiewic, B.: fatal acoident, 51 327. • Lyskamm and Monte Rosa.' 41 278 letters of, reviewed, 39 357 . Berne534 0116r1&1~d: 44 52 sundry olimbs of, 44 61-6 Mrs. Beaufo I's journey through (1787), memorial window to, 40 405 40261 Bell, G. M.: Ski t . (1905)~54 28 , Mountain Inns,' &3237 Bernet Peter: I obit. & port., 56 173 obit. 51 319 I Bell, J. A. H. : port. 51 318 obit. of A. V. Valentine-Richards, 45348 Berne .,G. F. : I T. H. Fitzpatrick, 53 380 Obiit port.,!43 344 --~--,-----L1------I 8 to INDEX TO VOLUM S, 39 58I

Bernina, Piz : Biets hhorn: i accidents: 1930: 42 130 cro a on, 53 70 1933: 45 167 E. Baltschi er) face, 42 236, 44 281 ascents : E. pur,42 36 from Piz Morteratsch, 44 330 E. idge, 42 237 from Piz Palii, 39 157 hei ht, of, 4 223 N. arete, 48 62 N. r~te, 42 238 1st winter, 42 125 tained om tho W., 45 155 N.E. face, 43 388 S. co, 424 history & routes, 44 132, 332 • hulz's a tempt, 58 183 S.E. arete, 44 330 S.. al'ete, st asc., 44 317, 45 140 from S., 44 135 Ste hen's c., 49 279 W. face, 42 331, 43 17,44 332,45 160 tr. y N. ar te & E. spur, 49 268 winter, 53 137, 269 W. arete, wi tel' asc., 42 2:19 railwayi proposed, 42 341, 346 W. face, asc , 44 325 winter tour of, 39 160 ill.. faco, 2 49, 53 ill., 43 287, 390 & S.E. rete, 45 141 W. face (1930 route), 42 322, 43 320 routes arked, 42 52. 54 S. face, 43 321 '. face, 4 236 N.E. fnce, 43 390, (various routes), 44 routes arked, 42 241 133 f om the " 42 238 Berninascharte : • & W. etes (1859 ,'-I; 1932 routes), 45 taken' en col,' 43 21 n. 153 ill., 43 22 • arete, 2237 Berti, A.: his book: Parlano i Monti, 57 Bilge i, G.: h' book: Del' Sommerski, 47 171 105 Biner Marie: death, 46 217 Bertram, A.: his book: Pavements and Billni , A. M. Peltks, 46 236 'A ote on t e Watch-type of Aneroid and Bel!8o,Lo: N. face, 1st dosc., 51316 is use,' 4 293 Betbartoli Himal: attempt, & ill., 68 52 , W stem C ada in 1933,' 46 81 Betsho Pass (Caucasus): cr. 47 116, 49 25 'A onth in Lofoten,' 51 43 Bettega, Michele: death, 50 152 rov of Roel .Mountains,57 104 Bezingi: ill.,41 168 Binni , R. B.• : death, 47 367, 48 218 Bezingi glacier: ill., 48 112-13 Bion al!8ay, A guille de: Bezingi Horseshoe: ace dent, 40 70 lat tr., 43 400 asc,5215 attempted tr., 49 80 i 01'1'01', 2]9 ill., 48 113 inter, 41 228 Bhagirathi (Himalaya) : N. aoe: Is direot MO.,39 25, 41 221 N. pk., 1st aBC.,51 80 2 d direc aBO.,39 141 ill., 51 80, 83 3 d direct aso., 41 60 Bhyundar Pass (Garhwa1): cr., 43 303, 50 c. & ac dent, 42 356 60 ill,52 16-1 Biafo-Khurdopin watershed: ill., 52 205 f om La ournette, 39 27 Biafo Wall, west: ill., 52 200, 204 fi om Co1 e VOZlt, 39 28 Bianca, La Punta: ill., 48 154 fi om Co1 Infranchissab1e, 39 141, 52 Bianoo, PiZ1.0 : 16 by W. buttress, 44 327 . face, 3 31, 32 ill., 4322 (1865 ;1926 routes), 41221-2 Bich, Mauriee: death, 48 183 Bird, A.: dell, b, 44131, 174 Bicknell, C. : Bird, L. W.: obit. of J. Summermatter, 58 rev. of A Portrait of Michael Roberts, 26 57424 Blsho 's MitrEj(Labrador): attempt & aso., obit. of Michael Roberts, 57 82 46 6 I Bicknell, P. : Bisit n (Iran) ~ asc., 55 275 'Skye,' 54 337 Blaaf e1d (Lo~ten): asc., 51 47 his book: British Hills and Mountains, BIac urn, M (Canada): ill., 47 292-3 56299 Blacl Forest r t (Pamirs): 41 261 Bicknell, R. P. : aso,41273 fatal accident, 39 344 Blae om, Mt (Canada) : obit., 39 303 1st asc., 40f7 ports., 39 207,304 asc, 47 294 Bidean nam Blan: ill., 45 266 macl Pk. (Hi alaya): 1st aac., 49 48 Biersack, J.: death,49 127 Blac cn, L.. : death, 49 271, 310

I I I INDEX TO VOLUM 39 to 9

Blackwell, E. J.: asc. in Wetterhorner, 58 Blanc, Mt (& t Blanc de Courmayeur): 499 Bre va l~aoe : Blailde, T.: his book: Diary of a Seotch , he Bre va Face' (Graham Brown's gardener at the French Court at the end paper), 1 178 of the eighteenth century, 44 152 B enva ro te: ascs., 39 335, 40 192, 389, & M.-G. Paccard, 4S 1 4212 ,43 362, 4S 235,406,47355, Blaitiere, Alguille de : 48 34 ,52218,229,53111,57459 I Couloir Spencer,' 1st asc., 40 410, 53 190 1st asc., 4~ 126 by the Glacier Suspendu, 53 102 alleged 804 asc., 47 332 by N.W. ridge, 58270 desc.,5 16 N. pk.: from W., 48 346 ute M:a.or: 1st asc., 40 372, 41 39 asc., 52 216 3rd asc. 49 276 . W. face, 1st asc., 58 131, 260 11th asc., 57 97 ill., 52 216, 53 190 other as 57259,58259,291 Blaitiere, Col de: 39 249 ., S ntinelle ouge route: 1st asc., 39 308, Blake, M. L.: death, 42 119, 163 4068 Blake, S. B.: 'The Polish ascent of Nanda 2nd asc., 42121 Devi, East Peak, 1939,' 53 31 r 3rd asCi 42 343 Blakeney, T. S. : 4th asc. 44 330 , Whymper and Mummery,' 57 339 'a della era: 1st asc., 4S 368, 51 195 I Observations on· early ascents of the 2nd asc., 50 146 WetterhOmer,' 58 496 3rd asc. 57 259 note: Approach to Kailas, 55 316 other as s., 58 132, 259, 298 A rival to Mount Everest, 55 320 Bro 'Ilard ute: ascs., 39 160, 40 388, J!'. S.Smythe, 57 419 Dr. John Hopkinson, 57 420 46377, 410 New conquest of the Matterhorn, 57 669 irkbeck' attempt, 52 257 Sir Frederick Pollock, 58 127 r1y atte pt, 48 334 Statistics of A. C. membership, 58 127 celes's e ploration, 53 149 urazzo's attempt, 52 261 Youth on Mont Blanc, 58 635 letter from India, 53 394 I t desc., 1 220 rev. of Do you go back dismayed? 57 263 I ennOOy' project, 52 264 The Breaking Strain, 57 437 Inn minata route: ascs., 45 377, 62 18, Jesuits go East, 58 282 5797, 60 The Great Beast: the life of Aleister razzo's attempt, 52265 Crowley, 58 423 1 t asc., 6 127 Nanda Devi: 3" Expedition Fran\.laisea 1 t desc., 0 389 L'Himalaya, 58 429 irdtesto e's & Utterson-Ke!so's at- No Picnio on Mount Kenya, 58 430 tempt, 351 'Ti-Puss, 58 553 'story, 5 134 obit. of H. S. Yerechoyle, 44 296 arahall' attempt, 53 144, 67 135 P. Montandon, 66 390 Pe terey I' ute: ascs., 39 150, 336, 40 Lord Desborough, 56 394 182, 38 ,401, 43 393, 44 322, 45 250, N. L. Hood, 56 401 47 365, 48 181, 404, 52 139, 68 622 J. J. Eberli, 57 87 celes's a tempt, 53 153 R. L. Langford-James, 67 89 1 t asc., 154 F. S. Smythe, 67 230 1 t tt'. fr m Mt Nolr d.e Peuterey, 46 C. A. Macdonald, 57 400 409 C. A. Heurtley, 57 567 ennedy' project, 63 46 B. M. Allen, 68 395 ennOOy' & M:iddlemore's attempt, 53 E. Freeman, 58 397 54 H. W. Belcher, 58 267 Va 'ous asc nts : E. G. Wells, 58 526 teged ( 854) by Col du Midi route, Blakiston, Mt (Canada): aso., 54 399 47336 Blanc, J. J. (Ie Greffier) : uldjo's, 5 122, 58 460 'A great guide' (Meade's paper), 51 201 arry's, r. M., 47 369 port., 51 202 eaufoy's M., 57 313 Blanc, Pierre: on the use of raquettes, 40 400 the Pi are of Fresnay, 58 520 Blanc, Mt (& Mt Blanc de Courmayeur) : hapman s, K. A., 48 142 accidents: 1931: 43405 aland's, T., 45 163 1934: 46 416 'Angev' e's, Mlle., 50 267 1947: 56190 centen y of, 50 327 1949: 67249, 253 e Sauss a's, 53 267 Hamel's, 58 172 rly Am rican, 47 126 I I 10 INDEX TO VOLUMtS 39 tol58

Blanc, Mt (& Mt Blanc de Courmayeur): Blan , Mt (& Mt Blanc de Coul'mayeur): Various ascents: ill., Route jor, 51 192-4,58303 1st., 41 125 ia della Pera, 51 195-9 note'on, 53 267 de C urmayeul', Mt (see also Mt von Gersdorf's narrative, 41 147 lanc) : Fellows & Hawes, 43 312 e early attempts on, from the lunom- from_ Aiguilles Grises hut, 54 262, 55 inatau_~~~bin' (Graham Brown's paper), from Mt Blanc du Ta.cul, 41 53, 54 ac ident: 933: 45 411 133 pI' posed n w name, 39 337 Kean's, E., 47 118 ill. 41 42, '14, 45 376 MacGregor's & Shuldham's, 47121 renva ce,41 42 Messer's, J., 50 331 iaw S.• from summit, 41 135 Ordlnaire's, E., 57 501 Blan ,Mt g up: Salmond's, J. & C. F., 50 145 • h level ute, 51 329 Smith's, Albert, &5128 ex loits in 1931),44 334 tr. by N.W. & N.E. aretes, 45377 ntier co ,note on, 43 364 by N.W. face & N.E. arete, 45 379 hu sin, 41 20, 43 393, 53 388 N.·S., & return, 48 343 m ps of, 178 unknown (1808),66 47,186,289 Blan de Seil n, Mt: via Col Maudit, 39 321 as ., 53 25 winter, 41 228 R 'nette ri ge, tr., 45 400 Woodley's, W., 43 308 Blan du Too l~Mt : . Various attempts: 43125,53102 N.. face, st asc., 42314 by Bourrit, 1784,57 204 nd asc., 47 140 dlila Beche, 1819, 67493 S.. face, 1 t asc. by E. couloir, 43 172 de.Montgolfier,49 70 fr m Col d~ Diahle, 43 239 early, 41 107-122 . ill. N.E. £ e (1929 route), 42 315 hy four Englishmen, 1792,66409 .E. face (1930 route), 43 172 by two Englishmen, 1814,57 197 . face ( 934 & 1929 routes), 47 140 Coleridge&, &5315 . Blan a, 00 . era (S. America): German Dr. Bean's ioe·axe found, 39 153 e ition, 1932,45 34 Lucebella Hare & the St. Gervais route, Blan he, Den : 57 462 • A cidents: 1929: 41 435 Model of, 50144 1936: 48 366 Paccard &, ~ 267 1948: 66 405 Proprietary rights on, 65 426 E. ridge: Seven views of, &5121 ieresels at: Sau8Sure,Lord Palmerston &, 5483 bt as ., Anderson on, 67 531 Without comment, 50 328 Bak ron, 43 162, 53 232 Youth & age on, 41 396,44 333, 46 399, ascs., 80,54358 54 79, &8535 1st Br tish guideless,55 282 ill., 41 114,48 348, 53 190 rom 0 de Zillal: Brenva Face, 39 309, 3ll, 40 68, 74, 375, ascs., 0392,42323,43 9, 57455 43 329, 45 370 ~ In 1 28 & 1947,56212 routes 45 371,61 177,58302 N ridge: Brenva.ridge, 52 217,40 153 . cs., 58 132, 519 from Colde Balme, 40 279 1st, 376, 43 276 from Couvercle,41 98 2nd, 309 Corridor, etc., 41 116 variatio by N.E. face & N. ridge, 40377 with Bosses,41 117 N E. face: 1st asc., 44 337 from Brevent, 41 126 N W. face Jonction, 41 127,42 182 1st asc., 147 155 view N.E. from summit, 41 134 1st asc. ~ Great Couloiron, 54 446 showing original routes, 41 155 S. ridge, 5 100, 189, 68 477 lower Ancien Passage, 42 182--3 • Bertol 0 Schilnbiihl,44 205 Grand Plateau, etc., 42183 W. & E. ridges, 47 358 S. face (1935routes), 47 357 W & S dges 54 255 from Buet, 49 168 . ridge~:' , from Coldes Montets, 50 224-5 1st deso. 57 532 Innominata face, 57 127 Ist asc., 57 533 Innominata arete (1919 & 1933 routes), w. tel' as .,49 127,66 295 45 377 ill , N. are ,40 377 Sentinelle Rouge route, 40 64, 75 from th E., 40 377

! ! . I Blanohe, Dent: ill., N.E. face & N. ~te, 43 277 ViereJelsgrat, 54 358-9 from Triftjoch, 58 328-9 Blanohe, Col de la Dent: note on, 55 322 Blanchet, E. R. : 'The spare rope in theory and practice,' 4163 'Aletschhorn and Furggengrat,,' 42 16 , The E. face and S.E. arllte of the Zinal- Rothorn,' 45 313 note: Le Perron de Valloreine, 39 338 Acrobatism, 45 406 his books: Hors des Chemins battus, 44 365 Au Bout d'un Fil, 49 295 rev. of Alpes de Savoie, vol. 5, pt. 2, 51 156 obit. of A. Supersaxo, 44 300 C. Wilson, 60 122 obit., 54 194 Blaven: ill., 45 265, 66 382 Bled, Lake of: ill., 50 90 Blooh, 0.: A note on photographic exposures at high altitudes,' 44 98 obit., 51 98 Blodig, K.: asc. & desc. of N.E. slope of Col Armand Charlet, 45 161 Blodig's Alpine Calendar: 1932, rev., 43 419 1933, rev., 44 377 Blomfie1d, J. E. E.: death,42136 Bliimlisalphorn : ascs., 43 132 from Friinden hut, 51 101 by N. face, 47 146 by W. fa.ce, 60 138 S. faoe, history, 47 86 ill. group, from N.W., 43 132 S. face, 47 86, (routes), 47 87 N. face (1934 route), 47 145 W. face (1937 route), 50 141 N.W. face, 51 100 Bobba,G. : note on, 49 128 memorial tablet unveiled, 49 280 obit., 48 334 port., 48 333 Bodll, J. E.: death, 48 206 BoeR, J.: his book: S.E.S., 56 197 Bogdo Ola (Tien Shan) : attempt., 57 467 ill., 57472-3 BogkhobllShi (Caucasus): ill.,4l279 Bolivar, Pica (Venezuela) : aBC., 52 74, 83, 85 winter attempt, 58 135 ill., 52 80, 84, 53 131 Bona, Mt (Alaska) : 1st asC., 42 321, 43 69 ill., 43 72-3 in 1895, Bonacossa, Count A. : escape on Piz Badile, 40 184 I I 12 INDEX '1'0 VOLUMjES 39 ~ 58 . I Bowen, H. C. : obit. of J. J. Withers, 62 112 Br~; h;~~~jZ~::~~l and the, 57 208 C. W. Patchell, 54 191 v rious as s.,43 13,5610,66 133 Bower, L. C.: death, 53 73 by Jose h Chamberlain, 45 168 Bowman, E. N.: 'Matterhorn : the 1931 . face: ttempt (1911),3934 n. ventures,' 44 69 ill, W. fae ,3934 Bowyear, H. W. T., Klein T ftje,43 38-9 • The Ochs, or Klein Ficscherhorn,' 40 118 from R ffelhom (1807, 1900, & 1931 death, 48 179, 403 routes,44 129 Bracken, W. R.: his book: Ski.ing,49 139 Brei ind: as ., 58 225 Bradby, E. H. F. : Bl-eilauihor , • Some mountaineering experiences and N W. !ilOe,1st asc., 40 408, 41 208 conclusions,' 40 304 asc.,48 55 obit. of T. L. Kesteven, 52 117 ill, 43 56 C. Wilson, 50 120 N.W. fa e (1928 route), 41 209-10 obit. & port., 66 270 (1936 route), 48 348-9 Bradley, M. G.: rev. of l!~ngelhoernerffthrer, Bre ta, Cim di, by N.W. ridge, 46 323 46436 Bre ta, Croz on di: asc., 46 323 Bradley, M. H.: her book; Caravans and Bre ta grou : ill., 46 75, 323 Cannibals, 39 368 Brill ta, Gug di; see Campanile Basso Braies, lago de: ill., 54 148-9 Bre va bivo ac, the old: 41 38 Bramston, J. T.: obit. & port., 43 159 Bre va, Col e la : Branch, C. C.: obit., 43 341 a cident: 1'934, 46 '419 Brandjoch: 1i3 343 cr , 40 45, 8 345, 53 101 Brant, R. W.: obit. & port., 46 377 in 1 day 6316 Brantschen, Josef: death, 47 344 Bre va, Calo te de la: asc., 45 235 Brasca, L.: death, 41 425 Bre va, Col ela Calotte de Ill,: 1st cr., 43 Brave, Mt (Labrador): 46 37 33 BraWll.lld,Peter:. port., 43 344 Bre va, 001 e Is. Fourche de la.: accident, Brazeau, Mt (Ganada): ill., from N., 41 350 1 37,492 3 Bregaglia, Val: Bre ent, the: Blailde's ascs., 45 23, 27 beauties of, 48 251 Bre oort, Mi S', port., 51 260 flooding of, 40 185 Bre ater, M (N.Z.): 1st recorded asc., 41 ill., 57 361 25 Bregaglia district : Brie ,Cresta: 1st asc. from N., 43 361 climbs in, 48 63, 251 Bri ,J.J.: Finzi'a paper, 1i5 11 o it. of A. Holmes, 43 342 Bregeault, H. (& others): their book: La E. Gree wood, 47 349 ohaine du Mont Blanc, 41 243 o it., 56 8 Breidhausen, Mt (Greenland): asc., 46 40 Bri ,W. A.: Breithom Gemelli, the: 39 332 o it., 50 1 Breithorn, Lauterbrunnen : P rt., 60 1 9 accident: 1931: 43 408 Bri chi, L.: death, 47 370 by S.arete, 40 396 Bris ow, Mis L.: letters to her family, 53 by N. face, 44 324 30 ill., 56 44-5 Bri sh Arcti Air Route Expedition: 44 177 N. face (1932 route), 44 324 B' hMoun 'neeringCouncil :55111, 119, Breithorn, Lotschentaler : 187,66 ,185,308 by N. face, 48 356 Sanding dvisory Committee, 54 232, 318, ill., 43 56 334 N. face, 41 210, (1936 & 1897 routes) N tices iss ed, 56 78 48 348-9 Bri sh Ski ear Book, 1944: rev., 55 115 Breithorn, Zermatt : Bri ah' Thr Thousanders ': 41 229 accidents: 1928: 40 423 Brit Ie, Glen: ill. (colour), 53 1 1930: 42130 Bro bent, • L. : 1931: 43 188 h r books Under the Italian Alps, 40 E. arete: nomenclature of 2nd pt. on, 39 426 153 Alpine alleys of Italy, 40 426 aso. by, 40 393 Bra d Peak Karakorum): ill., 39 231 E. pk. by E. arete, 47 358 Bra hkogel, intere: asc., 48 60 N. face: Klein Triftje: 42324,43 35, 388, Bra kedon, T.: early travels in Graians, 44 128, 53 297 159 1st guideless asc., 44 128 Bro ken, Sp ctre of: 39 21, 42 30, 219, Triftjegrat: 44 127 2 1 13

Brocklebank, T. A. : note: Army Cadet Force Mountain Course, 54 442 rev. of Kingdom of Adventure: Everest, 57116 First on ~he Rope, 57 263 Brodbeck, E.: his book: L'Alpinisme, 46 241 Broke, H. G. : obit., 44 287 port., 44 286 Bron, Ottone: death, 50 319 Brook, C. H.: obit. & port., 51 306 Brooke, F. R.: 'The Brellva Face, (1),' 58 291 Brooke,' H. S. : obit. of H. J. Heard, 43 343 of the Alpine Journal, obit., 46 378 port., 46 382 ber of the Appalaohian Brooke, W. G. S.: obit., 58 528 Broome, Mt: asc., 40 109 Brouillard, Aiguilles Rouges du : ases., 43 173 ill., 45 233 Brouillard, Mont: asc. via 001 Emile Rey, 48 387 E. face, 1st asc., 44 307, 45 245 ill., from Pic Eccles, 41 61 from l'Innominata (1932 route), 44 308 Brown, J. W. : rev. of SkifUhrer ffir die Silvretta.gruppe und die Rhaetikon, 44 162 obit., 50 298 port., 50 297 Brown, M. B.: 'Jungfrau by the N.E. areta attained from the North,' 46 161 Brown, It. A.: obit., 55 306 Brown, T. Graham: , The first direct ascent of Mont Blanc de Courmayeur from the Brenva glacier, and other climbs,' 41 34 'A new ascent of Piz Bernina and other climbs in 1930,' 43 8 'The Alpine Club: 1920-1932,' 45 120 'Col Maudit and other climbs,' 45 231 it 'Mount Foraker, Alaska,' 4714,205 , Two legends of Mont Blanc,' 47 332 'Nanda DeYi. 1936: a note,' 48 311 , The Brenva Face,' 51 178 'The early attempts on Mont Blanc de Courmayeur from the .Innominata basin' 52 254, 53 46, 144 'The Nordend of Monte Rosa,' 53 281 'A Note on the history of the Innominata face of Mont Blanc de Cour~ayeur.' 67 134 'Bourrit's attempt on Mt Blanc in 1784,' 67 204 , Girdlestone and the Matterhorn accident, 1865,' 57 369 note: The first ascent of Mont Blanc by the Brenva route, 42 126 Height of the Great Gendarme on the Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey, 42 128 B I I 14 INDEX TO VOLU~ES 39 to 58 Bubis Khokh (Cauc~sus): asc.,48 116" B ry,' H'~': death, 42 119, 162 Buchauah, C.: oblt. of G. E. Mannermg, B k, D.. : 56 264 ' Some flections on the education of the Bucher, E.: his book: Beitrag zu den M moun aineer and its bearing on acci- theoretischen Grundlagen des Lawinen- dents, 44 42 verbaus, 57 112 I The T ur and Trient glaciers,' 44 257 Buch$tein group (Styria): 44 247 I Climbi g and ski-ingin the Elburz range, ill., 44 253 North Persia, 1931-2,' 45 334 Buck, Mrs.: death,56 184 'Climb" g in the Takht-i-Suleiman group, Buet, the: N. Pe ia,' 47 299 Esoher's acoident on, 46 216 'The G rman expedition in the Elburz N.ll:. face & S.E. arl.\te,supposed 1st asc., range N. Persia,' 49 245 47 205 'Some experiments in mountain tele- MO.,49173 photo raphy with infra·red and colour Paccard's, 41 118,47 197 film,' 224 Biihler, H.: I The Alpine museum of the ' Bad w ther at Chamonix,' 57 159 D.A.V. at Munich,' 51 91 note: t e late Leon Payot, 50 318 Buhler, P.: fatal accident, 46 362 his boo : The Delectable Mountains, &5 Bujak, J. : 430, 79 'The Polish ascent of Nanda. Devi East rev. of e Va.lleysolthe Assassins,48 434 Peak, 1939,' 53 31 SwissWinter, 57 118 , Carpathians and Tatra,' 54 360 tier, H. M.: & inscription for the Tyndall rev. of The Tatra Mountains, 53 399 memori l~64 440 .. Ski Track on the Battlefield, 54452 tier, J.. M.: rev. of Leslie Stephen, his Bulgarian'mts: 46 301, 45 398 T~lOughand Charaoter in Relation to his BuIl, W. S.: Tlme, 419 obit., 63 65 utson, . R. C.: 'Mountaineering in the port., 53 64. Antarct c,' 57 198 BuIlOOk,H. D.: letter, From the Apennines, iittla : by W. arl.\te,47 147 55 105 i1ttlasse ucke: from the E., & ill., 41 214 l'luIlook,H. S. :. uxton, • F.: obit., 55 301 obit. ofW. Weston, 52 274 uxton, ~. E.: his book: Travels and A. C. Downer, 54 317 Reflecti ns,42 144 Bulnes, Naranjo de (Spain) : yrd, P;:J~Ca.ucasus): aso., 47 111 asos., 46 73, 58 134 yron, id: on Mt Blano, &5133 1st, 39 289, 44 233 attem~,392~,4670 ~ ill., 39 287,288,289,44 235,46 70 OOIA:BE ,PIZZI D1: tr., 48 65 Bulpett, W. H.: death,41 422 chat, dre: death, 64 316 Bur Dalau (Kashmir): ill., 39 84 ~hat, F orentin: death, 52 138 Burdsall, R. L.: his book (with A. B. doma, t (Canada): 1st asc., 42 72 . Emmons): Menagainst the Clouds,48 199 aesar, . R. : Burgener, Alexander: Fi1hrerbuch, 48 403, obit. ofF. N. Trier, 58 396 64 21, 58 181,410 A. J. R. Runge, 58 398 Burgener, Alois: man, nt du: injured on Matterhorn, 53 71 Me., 39 149 death,47196 1st fr m Envers de Blaitiere, 5&169 port.,50 124 airney, r. M.: Burgener, Christian: death, 5&225 obit., 5 315 Burgener, Hans: death, 39 338 port., 5 314 Burgstall, Hoher: tr., 41 300 airngor Mountains: Burlingham, C.: death,44 131, 174 . Mount warfare training in, 55 235 Burnet, W. C.: death, 5369, 87 I A.'l'.C. raining in, 5&395 Burr, A. : ill.,55 36-7, 55 396-7 note re Gertrude Bell's Sohreokhorn· aims: 357,64206 Lauteraarhom tr., 41 224 ambrai, t (Canada): 1st asc., 43 169 obit., 57 91 ambridg Mountaineering: 1934, rev., 46 correction re, 57 257 438 Burstspitzen: by S.E. ridge, 51 134 ameron, .: port., 56 375 Burt$cher, G.: his book: Die Kampfe in amerozz , Pizzo: den Felsen der Tofana, 50 161 MC.,5&17 Burul Pass (Central Asia): cr., 45 79 tr. to • Soione,39 151 Bury, C. K. Howard: obit. of A. F. R. ammai, iz: asc., 5&243 Wollaston, 42 306 mp, Mt (Greenland): 44185 l 15

Campanile Alto: Carrel, Je n.Josep I: death, 56 81 by W. areta, 40 169 Carrel. Le nard: eath. 53 72 ill., 40 170,46323 Carrell. G N.: Campanile Basso: 'Alpine Club hotogrn.phio Exhibition, accident: 1927: 39 340 Deoe ber, 19 9,' 57 885 1933: 45 408 , The Ipine CI b Photographio Exhibi- ascs., 45 402, 46 323 tion, 951,' 58 384 Campanula Zoysii: ill., 52 93 rev. of e Magi oithe Dolomites. 68 418 Campbell, C.: death, 44 131, 174 Carslake •• B. : • Campo, Como di : 'A trav rse of t e Tll.sohhorn and Dom,' by S.E. arete & face. 42 335 4289 by S.W. arete, 43 378 obit. of • H. F. Bradby, 56270 ill.• 43 377 G. P. Balter, 391 Canada: see Sp,ecial List. Carstensz New G ' ea): Canadian Cordillera: retreat of the ice in, 1st aso. 49 102, 77 44 263 ill., 49 84-5 Canali, Cima di: tr., 53 354 Casanna: aso., 56 00 Candler, C.: obit. & port., 43 346 Casemate, Mt (Roo ies): Candler, H. : 1st aso., 40 385 obit. of C. Candler, 43 346 ill., 40 84-5 obit. & port., 50 129 Casse, G de: Cantabria, Highlands of (Spain): art. & ill., ascs., 196,54 54 44 216 in wi ter, 39 I 0 Canterbury Mountaineer, tIle: rev. of No. I, E. arete 1st des ., 50 127 n. 44 378 Grande otte tr , 40 114 Ca.ntone, Cima: by N.E. arete, 43 3M Castagner' Antoni tr. with eima Castello, 48 64 death, 320 Cappucino, Pizzo: tr., 43 15 port., 318 Carfrae, J. A.: obit. & port., 41 189 Castello: let asc., 136 Carlisle, A. D.: death, 41 218, 450 Castello, ima di: 55 15 Carmen, Pte. : Castello, oIle del Passo Lurani): 55 15 1st asc., 43 233 Castelnuo 0, Pta..: asc., 39 150 1st by W. faoe, 39 156,43 236 Casteret, .: his ook: Ten Years under Carnedd Dafydd: ' the Ea h, 51 34 accident: 1938: 50 317 Castle, Mt (Canada : let asc., 40 196 ill., 53 120 CastJegua ,Mt (C nada): asc., 41 429 Camiola: 6290 Castor: Carn Mor Dearg: ill.• 45 261 Mc.,68 72 Caroline of Brunswick: her Swiss journey, by no agenari n,58 185 56411 by N. fuce, 50 09, 51 133, 326 Carpathians & Tatra: 54 360 deso. by W. face 43 14 Carpe, A.: ill., N. ti oe (193 route), 50302 , The ascent of Mt Bona, Alaska,' 43 69 Castor (N .. ): 1st so., 41 235 • The conquest of Mt Fairweat,her,' 43 Castor & ollux (G eenland): asc. of one of 221 them, 201 death, 44 357 Cathkin P • (Natal : obit. & port., 44 291 attempt 39 327 Carr, E.: history, 897 obit. & port., 42 300 ill., W. oe, 40 3 7 Carr, H. R. C. : Cats, olim s by : 134, 67 569 note: combined Mountain Club meet, 39 Cauoasus see Spe ial !.ist): Summary of 337 . 1935 ipeditio • 47 368 his book (with others): Walker's guide to ill., Cen al Rang , 47 112 Snowdon and Beddgelert. 57 275 Cayley. A.: his att mpt on Dom, 58 409 rev. of Hill Walking in Snowdonia,,58 425 Cedarberg n group S. Afrioa): 64 315 ',f The last Crevasse. 88 545 Cengalo. P Z : Climbers' Guides, 58 546 aso.,5438 Carr, R. C. C.: obit., 58 401 ofE. k.,551 Carr-Saunders, A. M.: 'An Alpine artist: N. face: Klucke 's stipulation re, 50 336 Francis Unwin,' 66 43 2nd a c., 41 22 Carrel. Jean·Antoine: ill., fro Piz Bad e, 39 119 death, 50 320 Cenis, Mt ( ass): port., 50 318 model 0 & ill., ~ 334-5 1 Carrel, J. B.: death, 56 185 use of sl,dges on, I 53 59

I T------.---,-+--t-'------16

Centre Pk. (Canada): 1st asc., 43 170 :armoz, 'guille des Grands: Cerredo, Torre de (Spain): 39288 .arly his ory. 39 250, 40 181, 49 134, 311 asc., 46 67 omene! ture, 63 225 ill., 39 288-9, 46 68 o.,47 67 Cerro Morado (Peru): aso., 51 327 i1st by N. face, 43 370 Cevedale, Mte: tr., 53 351 : 1st by N.W. ridge, 58 131 Chabod, R.: ' IN.face, ttempt,39 149 'Grandes Jorasses, N. face. Seoond I~r.,48 2 ,53 188 asoent,' 48 75 : Cha oz-Grepon, 63 14 his book: (with G. Gervasutti): Alpin- to Aig ille du Plan, 52 139, 58 132 ismo, 47386 with repon & Blaitiere, 41 411 Chachani (Peru): W. face, 1st asc., 58 135 ill., 39 2 0 Chamberlain, Joseph: in the Alps, 45 157 N. fao (1931 route), 43 370, 50 227 Ohambers, H. C.: obit., 58 526 C armoz, iguille des. Petits : asc.,41 430, Chambeyron, Aiguille de: 47266, 832 1st aso. by N. & N.W. faces, 39 129 C assefore , Dame de: aso., 64 17 Tour Coolidge, 1st asc., 44 140 C asseurs, Co1des: CI'., 47 150 ill., N. face, 39 130-1 C aubert, te: 1st asc., 43 235 Tour Coolidge (1931 route), 44 141 C aukamb : Chamois: in New Zealand, 41305 reconnotred, 61 82 Chamonix: acoident 52 47 early visitors to, 45 17 ill., 52 4 Mrs. Beaufoy's journey to, 1787, 40 261 C ella.goo~ {Himalaya): asc., 52 137 the Englishman at, 51 148 C enoz, A phonse: death, 56 295 A first visit to, 52 225 C essex, : his book: I..esAlpes Vaudoises, in 1948, 67 159 67 577 Chamonix AigniIles : C etin (Sh rpa porter) : ill., 50 226, 49 8 death,4 213 Champagne Castle (Drakensberg) :. aso. near, obit., 313 39317 port.,4 310 Champara (Peru): attempt, 45 37 C evalier, P.: death, 54 437 Chananian Sankar (Himalaya): aSc. & ill., C eville, : 47 202 54168-9 C 'antar acier (Chitral): 47 101 Chandar Parbat: 1st lisco& ill., 51 80-1 ill., 47 1 0 Changabang: ill., 49 32-3 C 'chibu, .I.H. Prince: Changtse: attempt,4810 • Eight o.ys in the Japanese Alps,' 41 8 Chapman, K. A.: asc. of Mt Blanc, 48 142 elected on. member of Alpine Club, 40 179 Chapman, F. Spencer: re-elect hon. member of Alpine Club, 68 • Chomolhari,' 49 203 , 406 • Travels in Japanese-occupied Malaya,' Cbilko, M (Canada): 1st asc., 47 289 5736 C~itina. ri er (Alaska): ill., panorama .from his hook: Helvellyn to Himalaya, 53 75 valle I' 39 22 Awarded Lawrence Memorial Medal of itra.l : Royal Central Asian Society, 67 566 Some G clers of Upper, 47 98 Chapursan valley (Chitral): 48 298 Mts. of .W., 48 302 Chapiitschin, II: ski asc., 43 287, 51 148 iIl.,47 69 asc.,4315 omiom : Chardonnet, Aiguille de : 2nd asc , 55427, 56 340 ascs: hy N.E. arete,44 258 ill.,56 0-2 by N.E. face, 41 412 omolha i: 1st asc., & ilL, 49 203 1st by S. face, 40 164 homo L nzo: ilL,.43 3 tr., 54 20 hong Kl dan glacier (Karakorum) : burst- ill., 40 164, 44 257 ing of, ill., 44 237 Charlet, Armand: hongra ks: ill.,44 199 ho Oyu:, recolIDaissance, 58 450 acoidents, 40 422, 42 337, 53 H2 \ I recovery, 43 184 horley, . S. T. (Lord) : Busk's note on, 65 108 : note: oad pollcy in the Lake District, his book: Vocation Alpine, 57575 • 611 6 port., 52225 I obit. of L. Pilkington, 53 256 Charlet, Pte Georges: iII., 45 269 (see 46 G. R Speaker, 54 74 4(3) A.. Wakefield, 57 408 Charlton, Mt (Canada) : I port., 377 1st a8O.,40 382, 41 345 Ohoten N 'ma La: cr., 48 14 ill., 41 351, 42 35 Ghuosen, t (Formosa): aSc., 46 338 I INDEX TO VOLUMES 39 ~o58 17 I Churchill, Sir Winston: Alpine climbs, 61 Clubs: : 130,52143 Cataluny , C. E. e: jubilee, 39 151 Cima Tosa: from the N., 42 1I5 East Mri an Mon tain: foundation, 43 391 Cimonega, Forcella: visited, 58 524 German- ustrian amalgamation with Cinque Fratri (Corsica): aso., 64 352 OE .. & OE .. K., 43 185 tr.,45143 change of name 50 144 ilL,45 161 Hellenic pine: oundation, 40 107, 191 Cinque Torri: asc., 54 1I8 growth of, 47 3 2 Cinto, Mte, group (Corsioa): 40 172 .• HimaIa.y n: for tion, 40 192, 410, 41 230, Civetta: by Solleder route, 58 132 5012 Claoh Ghlas: ill., 45 267, 54 344 amalga lation ith Mountain Club of Clapham, J. H. : Indi ,41232 , How it all bega.n,' 54 1 exhibit on : .19' 0: 43 158 rev. of Norway, the Northern Playground, India, M untain' lub of: foundation, 39 53 177 341 obit. & ·port., 66 419 amalga ation lith Hima.layan Club, Clappadorie : reaohed from Foroa dei 4122 DistElis,44 78 Italian ine: c ange of name, 50 144 Claret-Tournier, Michel: death, 62 284 Japanese lpine: 5th anniversary, 43 219 Clark, A. J. : London niversit Mountaineering: form- obit., 63 164 ation, 316 port., 53 162 Nederlan sche.Al n: 25th anniversary, Clark, R.: 391 2 his books: The Splendid Hills, 57 108 50th a niversar ,58 533 The Early Alpine Guides, 67 425 New Zea d Alp' e: jubilee, 53 89 Clark, W. 1.: obit. & port., 45 148 Norsk . deklub: 25th anniversary, 46 429 Clarke, A. E. : Oxford pine: £ rmation, 46 218 obit. of E. H. Stevens, 55 299 Oxford U iversity Mountaineering: meets: obit. & port., 57 87 1926: 9147 Clarke, L. W.: 1928: 1219 • The Vagaries of Memory,' 54 II 1933: 5399 obit. of A. E. Barker, 61 307 with neva C. Clarke, M. N. : Ruoksao Club: h anniversary, 58 533 obit. of J. Bagwell, 58 75 Scottish oun eering: jubilee, 535 A. G. Mathews, 57 240 South 'oa, Mo ntain Club of: golden Clarke, Mt (N.Z.): 2nd aso., 44 142 jubi! e, 53 89 390 Classification of mountain climbs: 42 344, develo ment, 373 43 181, 6S 371, 57 97 Swiss Al ine: 75 h anniversary, 50 331 Clayton, J. M.: obit., 50 294 Swedish oun . eering Clubs: 41 419 Cleaver, the (Canada) : Isttr. to Jumbo, 40 384 West Al n: fo ation, 50 325 Cline, Mt (Canada): 3963 Yorkshir Ramb rs: 60th anniversary, Clochetons, Les.(N. Mrica): aso., 45 1I3 68 533 Clogwyn-d'ur-Arddu (Wales) : Coast Rang (Britis Columbia): W. buttress, 46 123, 63 121-2 retreat 0 glaoiers, 44 274 E. buttress, 83 121 crossed, 775 Piggott's route, 63 124 climbs in 47288 Cloudmaker (Canada): ill., 56 356 (Alaska) cHmbs n, 118 139 Cloud Pk. (Karakorum): ill., 58 154 Coaz hut~... , 39 I 5 Clubs: co,bb, E .• :' Pre, ude to the conquest of American Alpine: distress signal, 60 147 Tirich' ',' 58 4 50th anniversary, 58 53? Cockburn, . : Handbook of Mountaineering, 64 206 obit.,48 56 Andino Bolivano: formation, 62 142 port., 48 60 I Appalachian Mountain: jubilee, 39 151 Coda, Pta.· 1st asc., 40 175 75th anniversary, 68 136 . Coddington E.: 'A Hydrographio approach Austrian Alpine: jubilee, 41 224 to the Al s,' 67 3 2,58 16,330 branoh of D.A.V., 50 325 Codera, Va : ill., 252 60th anniversary, 51 147 Col Nudo: asc., 56 62 reconst.ituted, 6S 426 Coleman, A P.: Belgian Alpine: jubilee, 46 212 awarded ictoria edal of R H So, 44 141 Canadian Alpine; distress signal, 61 148 obit. & p rt., 51 2 3 Cambridge University Mountaineering Coleridge, .: meet: 1926: 39 148 his book Some d Sundry, 43 419 Carlisle Mountaineering: formation, 57101 obit. of J~ A. Car ae, 41 189 , 18

Coleridge, S. T. : Colgrove, J. B.: obit., 43 340 port., 43 338 Colijn, A. H. : , New Guinea: ascent of Carstensz Peak,' 49102 • The Carstensz massif, 1936,' 49 177 his book: Naar de eeuwige Sneeuw van tropisch Nederland, 50 157 \ death, 56 78 I College Nationale d'Alpinisme et de Ski, 56 187 Collet, L. W.: his book: The Structure of the Alps, 40 210 Collie, J. N. : obit. of C. E. Fay, 44 116 C. B. Phillip, 45 146 J. Mackenzie, 46 198 ohit. & port., 54 59 Collie, Mt (Canada): asc., 39 70 Collier, Mt (Canada): asc., 55 69 Collin, T.: death, 43 381, 428 Collingwood, W. G. : obit., 45 150 port., 4li 147 Collins, G. L.: obit., 49 264 Collon, Col: cr., 43 116, 64 11 Collon, Mt : . asc., 53 306 tr., 45 399 Colombia, mta of: 51149, 329,52243, 53270 the Kashmir insect life, &6360 Columbia, Mt: 1st winter asc., 65 39 Columbia Group: 48 290 Columbia icefie1d: 56 290 Columna (Venezuela): S. pk., 1st asc., 52 133, 63 131 ill., 6281, 84, 63 130-1 Combatant, Mt (Canada) : 1st asc., 47 294 ill., 47 292-3 Comber, H. C.: death,44 131,174 Combin, Grand: asc.,6410 by S. face & S. arete, 43 372 by W. face, 45 381 ill., S. face & ridge (1931 route), 43 372 Commander, Mt (Canada): tr. to the Cleaver, 40 3&4 Compass, the: a warning to photographers, Alps, 51142 Compton, E. T.: memorial hut ereoted, 40400 Compton, W. C.: obit. of A. V. Valentine·Riohards, 45 346 obit. & port., 48 161 Conoha, Pico la (Venezuela) : 1st aso., 52 86 ill.,63 131 Condoriri (Andes): 3rd aac., 58 135 Confederation, Mt (Canada): 48 292 ill., 48 380-1 Connaught, Duke of: climbs in the Alps, 1868,57221

i 'T----·------~------I ------I INDEX TO VOLUMES 391to 58 19 . I Cornier, Grand: Cram, A. :r(,.: • Th~ snap-link pulley belay,' by E. arete, 39 323 58 382 i ill., from E., 39 323, 43 116 Crase, W. ~.; dell. h, 58 130 Corning, H. K. ; Crawford, . G, : 80th birt.hds,y, 53 72 • Mount Robson nd other climbs in the obit. & port., 68 393 Can . n Roc 'es,' 43 258 Coming, U. (Miss): Everest iary, 4 HI • South Tyrol or thereabouts,' 46 320 rev, of Climba 's Guide to the interior • In the shadow of Piz Badile,' 48.251 ran es of Br flishColumbia, 50 164 note: Hellenic Alpine Club, 47 372 This y Voya e, 57 591 Cornish, T,: death, 48 359,404 Crete: ex ditions in, & ill., 40 243 Coronet Pk. (Canada): 1st asc., 43 260 Crettez, urice ; Coronet Pass: 1st ski orossing, 65 35 his cUm ing care r, 58 304 Coropuno. (Peru): S.W. pIt., 1st direct aso., ports., 304-5. 68135 Crevasse; ill., 39 1, 56 122 Correvon, H.: obit. & port., 51 314 Crevasse r scue; ethods & ill., 61 335 Corry, R.: obit. & port., 53 158 on Kalt asser gl, 40 311 Corsica: see Special List on Hoh atten g " 54 317 Corti, A.: Crichton· 'ller, C. obit., 64 199 I Fuorcla Scerscen·Bernina,' 44 103 Crillon, M (N. A rica) ; notes for Aima Maquignaz's obit., 51 131 attemp 4S 135 obit. of G. Roy, 48 149 Ist asc., q 413 G. Bobba, 48 334 ill.,4S 35 Corvatsch, Piz. : Cristallo, te.: ill, 52 5 accident, 47 151 Crocodile, Dent du: by E. ridge, 58 522 ski asc., 51 148 Croda do. ago; t ., 54 119 Coryat: his ea.rly travels in the Alps, 56 Crossman A.: de th, 40 177, 456 51 Crou)!:,L rent: Cosson, C.: his book: (with H. Ha.yden) obit.,5 128 Sport and Travel in the Highlands of ports., 230-1 Tibet, 40 205 Croux, Ai 'Ie J ph: tr., 4S 245 Cost of a Journey (in 1888): 64 205 Crowley, leister biography of reviewed, Coste, J.: 58423 his books: Mes quatres premi~res annoos Crowsnes Mounta (Canada): asc., 64 400 de Montagne, 39 361 Croz, Mic el; me orial to, 47 368 Derni~rea ca.mpagnea, 40 427 Crozier, ,: her ook (editor): Beyond the Coste Rouge, Col de III,: accident, 56 190 South n Lakes 58 277 Cotopaxi: asc., 50 313 Crozier, . & M'f': • Mt McKinley from history, 50 314 the air}44 275 ill., 50 314 Currant, ."' (Miss): death, 48 366, 50 143 Courma.yeur: a winter's day at, 50 228 Cyprns: 57192, 45,58207 in 1948, 67 26 Czechosl akia: . 1947, & ill., 66236 Courtauld, S. L. : , • The first ascent of the Innommata face of i ' Mont Blanc, 1919,' 57 127 DAOBL:~st asc. y N. face, 43 394, 44 251 Courtes, Lea t Dachstei : from gl. de Tlllefre, 39 311, 40 76 aso., & 345 by N. face, 62 139 Mcide t, 50 33 tr. from Co1des Cristaux, 51 321,53 102 range, 9 242 ill., 51 322 routes p, 50 8 -8 Courtney, H. G.: death, 56285 S. face history, 49 244 Couttet, J.-M.: 57 299, 568 asc., 60 88 Couvercle: ill., Sir J. Herschel's drawing of, ill., S. ace, 49 3 57302 Dagelet, t (N. erica): ill.,4S 138 Cowell, J. J.: his early travels in the Dahinde ,J.: hi~ book: The Art of Ski-ing, Graians, 56 258 . 40428 I Cox, A. D, M. : Daihase zan Pk. Formosa): 46 333 • Rook-climbing in North Wales,' 53 115 Dainelli, G.: s book: Buddhists and rev. of Mounta.ins a.nd Men, 66194 glacie of Wes rn Tibet, 46 224 obit. of H. E. Kretschmer, 56 181 DainellifPta. (Ca casus): 1st asc., 47 111 ' Cox, Maj.-Gen. Sir P. Z.: obit., 49 117 Daintar laciers ( indu Kush): 46 138 Cozens, J. R., artist: 56 44 Dalai L a, H .. the: death, 46 217 CrOOle Mountain (Tasmania): asc. & ill., Dalloz, .: his book: Haute Montagne,

54149 43 41~ I

I ! ------H-~.-.----1 20 INDEX TO VOLU~ES 39 tf 58 Dames Anglaises: Do.'id's DO~ (N.Z.) : La Vierge: asc., 40 403 3 asc., 3 166, 274 Pointe boree des: asc.,41 410 il ., E. rid ,48 285 asc. of the four pks., 52 139 Da idson, J M.: Breche Centrale des: from Freanay side, 0 it. of R Lamb, 40 159 40 182 0 it. & po t., 57 404 ill., 40 65 Do. idson, . E.: 55 395 Freanay face (routes), 44 321, 45 240, S vereio of 'A famous Alpine story,' 5732 6382,28 Dampier, Mt (N.Z.) : D.. V. Mu um, Munich: art. & ills., 51 91 I, attempts, 45 308, 48 188, 285 Do. son, J .. : death,42 163,337 1st aBC"48 284 Do. son ran (Canada): ill., 54 154-5 2nd.,50 140 de goatlni, A. M.: his book: Ande Pata· 1st MC.by N.E. arete, 57 538 g niehe, 5 587 ill., 4'1 314, 48 284-5 de micia, .: port., 51 129 Dangar, D. F. 0.: de eaucW V.: death, 41 425,437 'Chriatian Almer and MelchiorAnderegg,' de eer, G.. : 65 249 ' uzzles,' 55 405 , Early expeditions from Bel Alp,' 58 347 'ibbon's ppreciation ofmounto.illS,'5757 'The Livret de guide of Joseph Vianin,' 'ont St k,' 57 181 87 61 ho w re the two Englishmen who 'The Fnhrerbueh of Andreaa Jaun,' 57 219 attemp cd Mont Blanc in 1814? '57197 , The Fnhrerbueh of Johann Jaun,' 57 318 '.-B. d . Saussure's election into the 'The Fnhrerbuch of Alois Pollinger,' Royal ociety,' 57 313, 568 57 524 ' ir Henr de 10. Beehe's attempt on Mont 'The Fnhrerbueh of Alexa,nderBurgener,' Bmnc, 819,' 57493 58181 ' breoht von Haller's Alpine journeys,' 'Observations on early asDent Blanche, 55 322 43 19 an avalanche on the Dom, 57 421 Alps an Men, 45 179,424 Luc Meynet and the Matterhorn, 58 271 Escape 0 Switzerland, 55 227 an early a.ttempt on the Do~, liB 410 Travell s in Switzerl&nd,57 265 the Fnhrerbuch of Alexander Burgener, Speaki of Switzerland, 58 426 58 410 v. of Sc olar Mountaineers, 57 581 'Scrambles amongst the Alps,' 58535 A chac n so.Montagne, 67 264 rev. of The Early Alpine Guides, 57 425 a ,pointed Director, Na.tural History Hochgebirgsfiihrer durch die Berner Muse, 57 417 Alpen, 58 281 a; arded on. degree at Lausanne Univer- Guide Vallot, La Chame du Mont Blanc, sity, 57573 Vol. ii, 58 281 De elak, M. M.: Do. Rifugio a Rifugio, Alpi Pennine, 'pik, by the N.W. face,' 44100 58 281 ' n the J lian Alps: from the Forca dei d'Angeville, Mlle: 63 174,54 56 Disteis 0 the Cl&ppadorie,'44 78 centenary of her asc. of Mt Blanc, 50 267, 'he S.E arete of the Cima dei Preti,' 327' 48 313 D'Archiac: 1st ase. by S. arete & tr., 58 217 'riglav orth face in winter,' 51243 d'Arcis, E.: his book: En Montagne: de riiyn, I : Recits et Souvenirs, 48 379 1 ttere fro Switzerland (1940-45),52 286, Darkot gl&ciers: ill., 47 319 53264,393,54 200, 55 219, 223 Darrey, Grand: Me.,43 120 n;ote: asc uta ofMt Blanc in 1927,39 335 Darwin, Mt (California): 46 96 ! Chamo . and Pierre Pointue, 43 393 Daspur Valley (Chitral): 47317 v. of aar de eeuwige Sneeuw van ill., 47 318-19 tropisc Nedermnd, 50 15T Daumas, J.: his bool,: La Peninsule du de heBne; . Bois: elected hon. member Sinai, 58 546 Alpine lub, 56288 Dauntl.s, Mt (Canada): 1st asc., 47 291 de essole, ., obit., 55 207 Dauphine: de ilippi, .: and the AiguilleMeridionaled'Arves, 40 3 'uigi A edeo of Savoia-Aosta, Duke of five traverses in, 4645 the Abr zzi,' 46 201 and Mt Blanc, 1939,52 10 's book :fThe Italian Expedition to the British travellers in, 58 453 ; Himala a, Ka,rakoram and Eastern ill., peaks, from Lea Bans, 46 48 Turkest n, 44 363

I I i 21 de'~iliPPi, F.: eleoted hon. member of Alpine Club, 47 370 obit., 51 296 port., 61 298 de Fonb1anque, A. F. : obit. of G. F. Berney, 43 344 obit. & port., 56 400 de Grunne, Count X. : 'Ruwen:llori from the West,' 45 275 his book: La Ruwen:llori, 50 3M' death, 55 120 de la Beehe, :M:t(N.Z.): asc., 39 342 de la Beche, Sir Henry : attempt on Mt Blanc, 57493 ill., sketches by, 57 496-7 Delagoturm: see Vajolettiirme de 180 Motte, E. S. G. : 'In the Argentine-Chilean Cordillem,' 45 328 'MtTronador. Some 1934attempts,' 46370 'lllimani and the Na:llis,' 62 250 note: third ascent of Mt Sajama, 66 80 rev. of Ande Patagoniche, 57 587 de Lepiney, J. : 'The mounta.ins of Morocco: the High Atlas,' 40 221 . his books: (with T. de Lepiney): Sur lea Cr~tes du Mont Blanc, 41 438 Climbs on Mont Blanc, 42 372 Les Aiguilles Rouges, 55 435 accident,44337 . death, 53 389 DemAnova (Tatm): caves of, 48 24 Demavend (Persia) : asc.,46 336 ill., 39 348 ill.,4& 334 de Montgolfier, E. : his climb on Mt Blanc, 49 70 port., 49 71 Dengg, Joseph: fatal accident, 53342 Dent, C. T.: 64 107 Dent, E.: death, 42 119,162 Dent, H. L. R. : obit. of J. A. B. Bruce,43 165 obit. & port., 52 119 Deo Tibba (Himalaya): 52 233 attempt, 68 270 ill., 62 234 de Pollit:ller.Pollenghi, A. : , The Atlas Mountains,' 45 96 'The Vatnajokull,' 48 257 his book: Montagne 'bianohi e Uomini rossi. Diario delIa Spedi:llioneal Cauoaao ••. del C.A.I., 1929, 44 361 Derdi Valley (Chitral): 48 295 de Rbam, G.: 'An ascent of the 8

Diener, K.: death, 40 180 Dieterlen, J.: his book: Le Chemineau de la Montagne, 51 162 Dimai, Antonio: retirement, 45 404 Strutt's tribute to, 53 22 DinalllCromlech: ill., 63 126 DinalllMot: lISC.of Nose, 53 120 Disgrazia, Mte della. : lISC.,54 138 by N. face, 45 406, 46 204, 393 history, 65 17 ill., from Torrone Orientale, 65 8-9 Disteghil Bar (Karakorum): ill., 51 240 Distress Signal : Amerioan Alpine Club's, 50 147 Canadian Alpine Club's, 61 148 Dittert, It.: hill book: PaIIIsiondes Hautes Cimes, 65 326 di Vallepiana, U.: 'Mountaineering in the CaUClISUS,1929,' 42 278 Dixon, G. }!'. : 'A first visit to the Zermo.tt District, , 68 469 note: the Aiguille Meridionale d'Arves, 57418 stonefalls on the Meije, 57 218 Dixon, H. B.: death, 42 336 Dodang Nyima Pk.: 1st asc., 42 225 Dodd, H. M. F.: obit. of H. Edwll.rds, 48 380 Doldenhorn, Gross : &scs.,from Friinden hut, 61 101 Galletgrat,51 101 (I N. face, 1st, 48 388 N.E. face, 48 354 S. ar~te, 1st, 45 151 S.W. face, 48 353, 49128 E. ridge attempted, 61 103 tr., from BibergpllSs, 47 364 accident: 1929: 41 437 ill., 51 100 S. fa.cc & arate, 45 152 N. face (1934 route), 46 389 S.W. face (1936 route), 48 348-9 N.E. face (1936 route), 48 353 Doldenstock: by W. arete, 47 364 Dille: early asos., 45 8,9 Dolent, Col du Mt : cr., 39 36, 45 380 ill., 39 36, 37, 40146 Dolent, Mt: by N. arete, 48 349, 63 101 & tr. to Aiguille de Triolet, 42 106 from Cabane Dufour, 57 243 incident on, 48 135 ill., 48 348-9 N. faco, 48 135 Dolent, Aiguilles Rouges du: La Mouche, 1st aIIIO.,65 281 Dolomieu, D.: bi.centenary of his birth, 57421 Dolomite Pk. (Canada) : 1st aBO.,43 76, 168 ill., W. face, 43 76 Dolomites: 45 268, 46 322, 65 158, 362 23 Douglas-Hamilton, Lord Malcolm: obit. of Lord David Douglas-Hamilton, ,5078,5235 54436 Dowbiggin, H. L.: note: the monsoon, 46407 Dowling, Mr.: death, 50 141 Downer, A. C.: obit., 54 317 Drake, F. W.: death,43 381, 428 Drakensberg (S. Africa): 39 317, 40 109, 41 406, 49 235 • ill., 49 234--0 Drawings, early: 61 146 Dreieckhorn : S.E. & N. E. ridges, 44 52 ill., 44 52-4 Drei Herrnspitze: 40 299 asc., 46 78-9 . Dreitorspitzen: tr. of three pks., 53 340 Blanc' mentioned, Dreyer, A.: his book: Bil.cherverzeichnis der Alpenvereinbil.cherei, 39 190 Droites, Col des: accident: 1930: 42 306 Droites, Les : acoident: 1930: 42300 N.E. faoe, 1st aso., 42 317 variation on, 50 146 asc., 54 81 S. fa.ce, new dooc., 44 324, 4li 239 ill., N. face (1930 route), 42 318 Drn, Aiguilles du : acoident: 1928: 40 420 1932: 44 336, 45159 asc., 48 32, 53 190, 253 by S. face, 51 145 1st winter & tr., 40 187 Miss Bristow & Mummery, 63 372 attempt by N. slope of S.W. buttress, 43174,389 N. fa.oe: asc., 57 555, 68 176 1st, 47373, 48 170 4th, 54 309 1st dooc., 44 336 tr., 40 234, 48 348, 52 220, 56 282 ill., 40 235-7, 43 174,52221 Sir J. Herschel's drawing, 57 298 Drn, Flammes de Pierre du : asc., 39 132 claim to 1st asc., 43 175, 389 ill., N. slope (1890 route): 43 174 Dil.bi, Dr. H. : poem: 'Music des 80jahrigen,' 41218 obit. of H. F. Montagnier, 4li 353 I , i & the 1st asc. of Mt Blanc, 41 103 ninetieth birthday, 51 147 EAGLE'!. NEST, E (SIXT) : obit., 53 255 the Wills-No n family of, 46 324 port., 43 166 Offerl for sal , 56 185 Du Faur, Miss F.: death, 48 363 Eagle ki Club: book: A Guide to Ski Duff, D. G.: note on Mountain rescue, 55 Tour in the pper Enga.dine, 39 188 196 Eales, . M. D : note: Gosau (Salzkam- Dummett. G. A. : mer t), 58 2 5 , , Seven views of Mont Blanc,' 55 121 Earl G ey, Mt ( anada): 1st aso., 40 383 note: Introduotion to the hills, 56 16 Eason,~"r. W.: rev. of Mountain Paths, 66 409 his b k: (wi hR. Hamilton): A Portrait obit. of R. C. G. Moggridge, 56 424 of 'chaol oberts, 57 424 24 INDEX TO VOLUME~ 39 to + • Easy Day for a Lady': Origin of phrase, Edw~ds, H. : 58 124 ' T~ ropes i the Matterhorn accident of Eaton, J. E. C. : 1 65,' 45 19 rev. of n Monte Rosa. vicende uomini e obit, 46 380 impresse,44 374 Edwa s, W.. : obit.,48 165 Nella.Gloria.delle AItezze ?, 45 178 Egger C.: n Duea degli Abruzzi e Ie sue Imprese, not: spelli of names (Andenmatten & 50 848 Benet), 427 The Mountain Vision, 53 275 e rlyasce ts of the WetterhOrner,&682 Secret Mission,53 400 his oks: ia Eroberung des Kaukasus, Pariano i Monti, 57 105 45 173 La Cervin, 57106 ·chel-Gs.riel Paccard und del' Mont- obit. of E. V. Slater, 48 184 blanc, 327 A. G. Whitting, 50 128 oDiered r AIpen, 55 331 E. G. Oliver, 51 306 Egger, Ernst: 1 426 H. W. C. Bowdoin,53159 Eggin 1': by • face, 45 383 J. N. Collie,54 59 Egli, .: his ook: Swiss Life and Land- B. W. Watson, 54 192 sca , 5726 A. Booth, &6393 Eglint n Towe (BaffinLand): asc.,47 54 S. Spencer, 57 410 Egmo t, Mt ( .Z.): accident, & ill., 39353 Eberli, J. J.: note: the Seiler family, 44 Egypt (seealso pacia!List): 42226,44136, 339 399, 56 33 obit., 57 87 ill., 2 227-2 3, 66 32 . Ebnefluh : Ehden Church of: ill., 57 73 by N. face, 47 147 Ehme , W.: h s book: Um den Gipfel del' tr. by N. arete and N.W. arete (1st desc.), Wel ,48 386 65 103 Eiffel Canada): ill., 46 80-1 ill., N. face (1933route) 47 147,63 135 Eigar: Ebner, 0.: his book: Kampf um die ascs, 63 186, 54 24 Sextner Rotwand, 60 161 b S. ridg from Bergli hut, 62 127 Eccles, 001 : in winter;-'3 133 1st cr., Fresnay-Brouillard, 40 388 atte pt, in 't!nter, 41 229 ill., 41 52-3, 60 . Eige wand: ~ccidents: 1935: 47 378 Eccles, J. : I I 1936: 48 369 his climbing career, 63 150 I 1937: 49 283 climbs on S. face of Mt Blanc, 63 153-4, I 1938: 60 334 67 135-6 l~asc., 5 310 Eccles, Pio : as., 56 1 5, 68 132 ase., 62 18 at empts, 148 1st asc., 63 146 Hor i: atte pted, 42 256 ill., 62 19, 57 128, 130 tr" 46 201 N.E. slope, 41 52 IPt. 286 to Mittellegi hut, 39 324, S.W. slope, 41 53 j 42 2 Eohevarria, E. A. : note ; some first ascents P~. 2706 a tempted; 48 363 in the ChileanAndes, &8407 IbyE. fa e, 49 277 ECl'ins,Les : ope on, 41 423 aooident: 1028: 40 410 II' . 2866a c., 63 97 ascs., by S.W. arete of Pic Lory, SO 301 Mitt llegigra : attempt & 1st dese.,66185 Miss G. Bell's, 39 242 Is ase., 4 254 . tr., & mishap on N. face, 54 17 as s., 40 1, 41 285, 42 257, 49 273, by S. face, 62 12, 213 3 299, 355 by W. (ClocheI')& N.E. aretes, 46 53 hi tory, 41 282 1st winter, 40 187 tr , to Jun fraujoch, 45 54 ill., 40 7, 46 53, 48 248, 52215 'th Ma ch & Jungfrau, 47 366 S. face, 39 243, 47 260 1st wint ,48 217 N. face, 39 245 N. co: des .,40329 S.W. buttress (1937route), SO 301 Is asc., 318,4553 Ecrins, Clooherdes: collapse of, 44 132 S.E~(Kalli) fi e: 1st asc., 49 269 Eorins, Dome de Neigedes; ill., 9326, 49 2nd ase. of N.W. face, 40 386 ttellegi at, 39 324, 41 282-7 Young's (1911)route repeated, 39 154 N~face, 4 329, (1932 route), 44 319, 'I Ecuelle, 1'; ill., 47 203 5 54 Edith (Canada): asO.,5&358 H 'rnligrat 46 202, 39 325, 42 259 EdDie,G.: obit. & port., 61 310 N E. face ( 937 route), 49 275

I

I

! r------H---·----- INDEX TO VOLUJ,fE$ 39 to 25

Eiger: ill., S.E. face (1937 route), 49 268-9 Eigerwo,nd, 45 55,47375,48 370-1 (attempted routes), 48 365 From RI. Silberhorn, 53 104 Eigerjoch: 1st cr., 55 55 Eigiau, Cwm: ill., 53 122 Men Eiskogel, Gross: N.E. face, possible new variant, 48 362 , Eisseespitze (Tatra): tr., 48 21 • Eistalerspitze (Tatra): aso., 48 18 Elbruz, Mt: accident: 1930: 42362 asc., 39 333, 42 132, 347, 48 112, 49 85 by 100 climbers, 48 86 1st ski, 42 287 E. pk., 39162,47117,48 n6 solitary,47104 relic of Sella's, 45 165 ill., 49 80-1 Elburz Range (Persia): 45 334, 49 245 ill., 45 338-9, 49 245-6 Elie de Bell,umont, Mt (N.Z.): aac., 39342,43 82, 44 142 attempt, 39 164, 273, 41 313 ski asc., 49 90 Mont 1st winter asc., 41 234 W. Pk., asc., 58 215 Elliott, C. A. : , The Dent Blanche from the Col de Zinal, 1928 and 1947,' 66 212 note: Mount Kenya, 47 369 obit. of!t. Bioknell, 39 303 T. F. Buxton, 55 301 Ellis, F. N. : obit. of H. Priestman,44 114 obit., 47 133 ~orts., 47 133, 48 332 Ellis, G. W. H. : obit., 44 288 port., 44 287 (1783- Ellis, W. H.: elected hon. member of B.A.C., 50 332 his relief fund for Swiss guides, 50 143, 54 315 ~bit. & port., 55 208 Ellison, W. J.: 'Mount OIympus: an internat.ional ex- pedition,' 40104 Ellmauer Halt: aso., 53 345 tr.,54 18 Ellwood, L. A.: 'Jum'ruklJal,' 46 159 Ellwood, V. T.: obit., 54 197 Elmslie, W. T. : , Mount Olympus,' 39 86 : 40 408, 41 21, 48 361, , Some Spanish mountains,' 39 '286 , The mountains of Israel,' 40 338 , Note on Mt Olympus,' 40 101, 402 . face (1936 route), 48 361 'Olympus from the West and South,' .Z.): 39266 41377 note: Pyrenees, 43 395 rev. of Mount Olympus, 41 242 obit., 5586 port., 5588 26 INDEX TO VOLUMk,S' 39 tolss Eremite gl.: ill., 55 32-3 Evertst, Mt : Ermatinger, Mt (Canada): 1st asc., 40 382, 19 8 exp it,ioll: Tilman's summary, 41341 50323 Escher, J.: death, 43 385 TIman's apar, 51 3 Escudi6,A.: obit. of M. Paillon, 51 119 ost of, 6 183 Esquilant, P.: death, 56414 xygen 0 ,51 85 Estellette, Aig. d': 1st asc., 52 258 ersonnel 50 147 Esterol: 43 249 rt., me bel'Sof, 51 4 Etages, Pte du Vallon des: 1st asc., by N. some p rters of, 51 4 face,49119 ex edition 0 Nepal side of, 58 108 Etna, Mt: attempt, 55 364 19 1 (Reco naissance) expedition, 58 269, Eton Masters: m., grave of, 47 378 33 Europa, Picos de: 39 287, 43 396, 44 232, i1J.45218-.1,4811,226--7,50111,515-17 48 63, 58 133 ~I 57281 90 ill., 44 216-235,46 64-70 orth col 48 6, 10 Evans, Mt (Canada): 1st 0.80" 40 382, 41 orth pk , 58 109 343 . face, . & W. aretes, 48 192, 49 128 Evans, Mt (N.Z.): 2nd asc. & accident, .E. face (with heights), 48 144 50 141 • cwm, 7, 58440-1 Evans, R. C. : om W., 109 'Three Alpine climbs in 1949,' 57 455 Eyri 's Jokull: 4086,90 rev. of The Story of Mountains, 58 138 asc , 48 320 obit. of R. A. Hull, 57 415 ill., 48 321 Eveque, r: accident: 1930: 42357 Everest Committee: 48 406, 49 121, 56 202 Everest, L. F.: death, 47 158 Everest, Mt: FAlIls~H.: el cted hon. member of Alpine accident: Wilson, 1934: 48 414,478,48 5 Cl~b' 40 19 final problem, 46 442 ' Fair eather, t (N. America): health on, 48 449 att mpts, 339 height, 41 419, 58 406 1st asc., 43 21 Houston flight over, 45 166, 400 m' 4322 film of, 46 405 Falco , N. L.: 'The Bakhtiari Mountains last lap, the, 57285 of outh·w t Persia,' 48 351 post-monsoon attempt, possibilities of, Fans awe, R.. : obit., 53 167 53 205, 392 po ,,5316 , Potin,' a,40 187 Farmtr, B. obit., 54 310 J. projected 1947expedition, 55314,56 9 Farq aI', F. P.: 'The Sierra Nevada of rival to, 65 320 alifornia ' 48 88 name, 47 127,401, 58 406 his book: (witll A. E. Phoutrides): , Times' photegraph of, 57 97 ount 01 mpus, 41 242 Westernroute, merits & demerits of.58451 Farr, J. P.: '! 1924 expedition: Austrian criticism & 'T e West, or Breche, arete of La Meije,' reply to, 39 117 291 port., someporters of, 44 lIS 'N tea on t e early history ofthe Requin,' 1933expedition: Ruttiedge's paper, 45 216 105 ' extracts from Crn,wford'sdmry, 48 Ill, 'T e Thiol and Pilkington routes up the I 119 frau n 1862,' 40 357 extracts from Shipton's diary, 46 118 no: Col d Lion,39155 I film of, 46 214 rev of Guid de la Chaine du Mont Blanc, 'i' finding of ice-axe, 45 226,48 447 d' 39364 German comment on, 44 262 larts de 10.Ohaine du Mont Blanc, lessons from (Longstaff),46 102 I 39 365 I comments on same (Crawford),48 109 ~ette: R cordi di Esplol'azionie Nuove comments on same (Greene),48 108 !'Ascensi ni sulle Alpi, 40 211 personnel,44 344 J bilaum hrift, 40 430 port., membersof, 45 217 ,A.C.Be • Bericht, 1927,40 430 1935 (Reconnaissance) expedition: Ship- 0 ronik d r Wengernalp und Jungfrau- ton's paper, 48 1 bahn, 4 4.'il 1936 expedition: Ruttledge's paper, 48 I s Cabo.es du Club Alpin Suisse en 221 1927, 431 personnel, 48 185 ppalachi n Mountain Club Bulletin, port., membersof. 48 222 June, 1 28, 40 433 N.0.0.'s of, 48 223 obi~.of F. gaud, 40 371 1 27 Farrar, J. P.: INDEX TO VOL:::8 ~ :~~ history, 47 361 menUoned,54 116, 226 Films, 'fountai ering: 40 186,41 224, 255, elected hon. member Amerioan Alpine 42 1 1, 343, 186, 330, 389, 44 136, 45 Club, 40 180 165, 02, 46 2 4, 405, 47 155,50 328 obit. & ports., 41 172 Finch,1 . R.: ea.th,48 179,403 Fasana, E.: his book: II Monte Rosa Finch, (}. I. : vicende uomini e impresse,44 374 'No1t on the Viro va.lleypeaks, Corsica,' Faulhorn : 39.002 Ha.sler'sascs., 51 333, 56 185,403 note! oxyge 'and Mount Everest, 61 89 winter asc., 1887,67 13 rev. ,f Das G etsoher-Buoh,50355 Favre, Dent: obit. 1ofV. A. Fynn. 41 397 aso.,43136 Rt·H' K. P to,43 352.. S. arete, desc., 45 406 Findla , Mt (Ca ada): 1st aso., 43 169 Favret, Edouard: Ffihrerbuch extracts, Finestr, Pta. d : a.sc.,40 174 50 144 l<'inest ,Mado a delle: as climbing oen- Favrot, Fran90is: Fi1hrerbuoh extracts, tre, 250 60 145 Finger ks. (Ca 'fornia): 46 97 Fay, C. E.: obit. & port., 44 116 Finste horn Fedohenkogl.: 41 268-70 asos. 43 120,53 100, 143,299, 65 245 Feekopf: tr. with Allalinhorn,43 11 E. (Obet'S 11derjooh)arete, 42 110 Feldsohyn, Hinter: by E. ridge, 48 176 Is Sir F. Sohuster & Coolidgeon, 48 Fellowes, P. F. M. (& others): their book: 30 First over Everest, 46 229 N.. faoe, 2339,44 63 Fenner, C. A.: 'British Columbia, 1949,' S•• arllte: 1st completeasc. by 40167 57507 ttained rom S.W., 50312 Ferguson, Mt (Canada): asc., 57 511 r. by, 4 401,66282 Ferradillo (Spain): asc., 44 222 wi ter asc. 54 28 Ferrand, H.: death, 41 2 ill., 61, 65 5644, 66 384-5, 466 Ferrari, A. : S.. ar~te, 40 167-9 his book: Nella Gloria delle Altezze1, N•. faoe ( utes shown),42 Ill, 340 45 178 Finzi, . S. : death, 48 183 'Th Scheide Wetterhorn by the N.W. Ferro Centrale: fi e,' 42 1 E. art:te: asc., 41 224 'Av anche ys in the Obersulztal,' 47 reached from the N" 1st asc., 63 19 32 Ferro Orientale (Punta Qualido): 'St ck by Ii htning,' 49 65 1st asc. by N. face, 63 21 'Th Bregag a,' 55 11 ill., N. face, 48 64, 63 18 note: Krithe buhI'1lasoent of the Wetter- (1914route), 42 328 h N. fa ,55428 Ferro, Torrione del: rev. f The olomites,58 284 E. arete, 1st asc., 39 316 1l-lkingi the Alps, 66 287 aso., 41 224 . obit of C. T. Holland, 5363 ill., N. face, 48 64, 53 18 1\1E. S. R dolf, 52 278 Festi gl.: ice avalanohe from, 49 280 P. J. H. Una, 66 117 Feuz, Edward: avalanche adventure, 55 65 Firba ,T.: s book: I Bought a Mnun- I, Feuz, Ernest: port, 54 154 tain 53 78 Fiammes, Punta: by S. faoe, 46 327 Firm' ,A. H. : ill., 46 322 'Th first oent of the South faoe of Field, A. E.: obit. & port., 57 402 M nnt Ke ya,' 65 400 Field, Mt (Canada): asc., 55 67 port, 65 81 Fiera, Torre: asc., 40 J74 Firsoff V. A. : Fiesoherhorn,Gross: his ooks: he Tatra Mountains, 53 399 ascs., by N. face, 42 319 S . Track n the Battlefield, 54 452 in winter, 53 135 T e Cairn rma on Foot and Ski,67 434 tr., 48 138,56 352. ran wit Camera and Sketchbook, ill., N. face (1930route), 42 320 58425 Fiescherhorn, Klein (Oche): First ~d Com ittee,56 III asc., 57 22 Fisch ,H.: s book (editor): Der Gross- E. faoe, desc., 40 118 gloe ner, 42 49 N. face, 1st asc., 48 356 ~Sher~'J. E.: obit. of Allston Burr, 57 91 ill., N. face (1936route), 48 349, 57 16 Flson, E. H.: eath, 43 179,220 FiescherMrner : ill., 40 118,62 127 Fitzge aId, E•. : obit. & port., 43 163 Fifre, Le: asc., 47 264 Fitz-G rald, G. 1. (Miss): 'The traverse of ill., 47 260 the randes orasses,' 43 63

T 28

Fit~Gibbon, M. R. (Miss) : For~· s, Mt ( nada): 'The Ryan-Lochmatter arete of the as .,3965 Aiguille du Plan,' 55 164 Is aso. by . arete, 43 169 note: shelter hut Bobi Arsandaux, 48 ill.l,39 65, 77 184 Forbes-Lyell roup (Rockies): 39 52 Fitzpatrick, T. C.: death, 44 131, 173 For ,Mt (Gr enland) : Fitzpatrick, T. H. : at empt., 185 obit. of A. V. Valentine-Richards, 4S 347 Is asc., 50 324, 51 108 obit., 53 380 ill. 44 185, 51 108-9 FitzRoy, Mt (S. America): 1st asc., 68 407 For osa: a . & ill., 46 328 Flaig, W.: Forn gl.: ill, pks. at head of, 43 H2, 48 62 his books: Skifilhrer fur die SilVTetta- Forn , Mte d 1: 55 13 Gruppe und die Rhaetikon, 44 162 ill. 5644- Das'Gletscher-Buch, 50355 Fo tel', E. obit. of S. L. Pearoe, 66 275 Flat Top Pk. (Canada): 1st asc., 43 170 ~'osk tt, Miss: MS Journal, 51 332 Fletcher, C. R. L. : Foss n, Benj min: ascends Castor at age of his b00k (editor): Reliquiae: A. D. n' ety,56 85 Godley,39178 Foth rgill, C. '.: Fletcher, F.: obit. of P. Fletcher, 39 300 'C 'mbs wi h medical and wea.ther com- Fletcher, P.: obit. & port., 39 300 lication,' 54 347 Fletschhorn: asc., 52 68, 56 29 no~e: Foul play in the Tyrol 1,68 538 1st aso. by N. face, 40 379 re . of The Cradle of SwitzE.'.rland,68 539 Pt. 3928, 1st asc. by E. face, 41 208 Foth rgill, E. L.: note'oll Mounta.in rescue, ill., N. face, 40 379 55197 Floitenspitze: N. face, 48 67 Fou, iguille u: Florence, Mt (Canada): 1st asc., 40 383, Fr mtheS, 60306 41354 by S.W. rid e, 68 270 Flores, Nevado de (Andes): 1st asc., 58 ill. from th S. (1938 route), 50304 408 ' Four Peaks ( brad or) : 46 33 Fluhhorn: asc., 43 10 Four housan -metre Pks. (Alps): 41 49, Foa,E.: 44 37 ".rhe new Frontiers in the Alps,' 40 292 Fou he, Gra de: a.se., 44 259 rev. of The Alpine Passes (Middle Ages), Four he, Peti : ase., 44 259 43194 Four , les: ill, 47 202 Parole agli Alpinisti, 46 234 Fou ,la Soie es: ill., 47 203 r Visionl Alpine (third series), 46 236 Fowl ,T.J.:n te:thePioosdeEuropa,&8133 1~. obit. of E. B. Harris, 47 135 Fox, .: obit, 42 99 I obit., 55 84 Fox 1.(N.Z.): 49 98 F(jIz (Kaiserchild) group: 44 252 Fox, . H.: a d family,55 135 I Fontaine, E. : Fox, t (Cana a): by E. ridge, 43 264,44172 ( & Ravanel, 44 338 Fran is, E. C.' death, 46 206, 276 death, 56 316 Fran lin gl. ( anada.): retreat of, 44 274 Foot, H.: death, 48 403, 47 194 ill., 47 77, 8 Footstool (N.Z.): ascs., 39 267, 42 348, 47 Fra Josefgl 160 ill., 40 112, Footwear: Free a.n, E.: Barker boots, 4S 295 obi .,5839 in Dolomites, 44 252, 58 405 po .,5337 ski-ing boots, 55 157, 289 Frees • F. E.: dea.tb.,47 367, 48 218 Vibrams, 52 140 FreIl;e ay, COI~(N.Z.); origin of name, 53 93 experiences with, 66 331,5716], 165 Fre s, W. F. T. von: dea.th, 52 142 Foraker, Mt (N. America) : Fres eld, D.. : 54 106-7 1st asc., 46 393, 47 212 • T e third ~unt Everest expedition: an Graham Brown's paper, 4714,205 ustrian .ticism,' 39 117 S.W. pk., 1st asc., 46 400, 47 221 no : undel Kangchenjunga., 39 161 original namc, 47 18 t ave! in t e Caucasus, 39 102 ill., 44 274-5, 46 395-8, 47 16-33, 212-13, C uoasian nomenclature, 42 135 228-9 poe : on e dea.th of Fran90is Devouas- Forbes, J. D. : s ud, 46 2 1 in the Coolin, 64 340 rev'l of Jac es Balmat du Mont Blanc, Steven's paper, 64 372 42146 in the Graians, 56 252 11Littera ure Alpestre en France et en port., 64 376 - [Anglete e aux XVIII- et XIX- Forbes, J. W. F.: obit., 55 303 ! Sieeles, 413

I I ! INDEX TO VOLUMES!39 to 58 29

Fresh1ield, D. W. : Furrer, ptto : rev. of Montagne bianobi e Domini rossi, 44 repO~d deat ,53 266, 53 387 361,45 Hl5 accid nt, 54 2 I The J

Gallo, 11: 55 18 Gayle, N.: his book: Sinister Crag, 51 347 by E. face, 46 386 Gai~!k:~~ng oier, lower (Hindu Kush): ill., ill., 45 386 Gandegg: cable railway proposed, 61 138, Ge nt, Aigu lle du i 174 cidents 1932: 44 345 Gangotri: glacier, 43 303, 46 306 1949: 57252 group: ill., 55 184 cs., 45 35, 48 34, 53 97, 101 Gansser, A.: bis book (with A. Heim): N. face 48 167 Thron del' Gotter, 50163 , Mum ery'sletter on, 48 180 Garden, W.: obit., 58 120 ! N.W. £ ce, 57 555 Gardetta, Passo delia: 49 127 I S. face, 1st asc., 48 167 Gardiner, F.: port., 53 142 mile Re 's death on, 48 35 Gardiner, K. (Miss): 'A Canadian pack iI.,48 17 train trip,' 42 70 from S. ¥., 48 32 Gardner, A. : from gl cier du Geant, 48 33 his books: The Art and Sport of Alpine N. face routes of early attempts), 48180 Photography, 39 358 Gil nt, Co1 u: Britain's Mountain Heritage, 54 86 cident: 1938: 60 319 Garhwal (see also Special List): 50 323, rly cr. y guides, 47 333 56292 at cr. by ladies (1822), 54 57 Garibaldi Park (Canada) : retreat of glaciers, 'Illferiqu proposed, 46 213 44274 Ge irgskrie : rev., 39 363 Garmo, Mt: 41269-70 Ge des, Mt (Canada)': ill., 41 269 ttempt, 7 294, 296 Garwood, E. J. : '1.,4729 obit. of J. H. Wainewright, 40 151 Ge de, Mt ( anada): asc., 40 196 C. C. Branch, 43 341 Ge rvortur ( celand): aso., 48 270 D. W. Freshfield, 46 175 Ge s, Cima di: asc" 43 252, 256 Lord Conway of Allington, 49 256 · .,4325 elected President of Geological Society, Ge merhomfr: tr., 54 30 42120 Ge elIi, Co e dei:. 53 22 obit., 67 239, 418 Ge alIi, Piz i: N.W. Needle, 1st asc., 39134 Gasherbrum I: (see Hidden Peak) Ge mi Pas : Blaikie's passage (1775), 45 14 Gask, G. E.: Ge slftcke: cr. on ski, 54 29 obit. of J. P. Farrar, 41 172 Ge rge, H.. : port., 55 252 H. V. Reade, 41 392 Ge lachspit e (Tatra): asc., 48 23 G. H. Makina, 46 180 Ge an m untaineering: 44 334, 48 374, M. J.•.Hepburn, 63 376 7190 W. T. Lister, 54 431 Ge dorf, B ron A. T. von : S. Gask, 67 92 is diary. iscovered, 41 102 obit., 68 112 . acoo t of 1st asc. of Mt Blanc, 41 147 Gask, S.: obit., 57 92 Ge asutti, G.: .his books: Montagnes mil. Gaspard, Antoine: death, 45 408 io,5722 Gaspard, Maximin: i (with • Chabod) :. Alpinismo, 47 386 obit. & port., 39 307 Ge$ner, Cad: corrigendum re obit., 40 114 *s books: On the Admiration of Moun- memorial to, 39 331 tains 50 346 Gaspard, Pierre: port., 39 307 , A Des iption of the Riven Mountain, Gaspard, Pic: 50 6 tr. from Pave, 39 131 ort., m al of, 40 145 to Pave, 41409,44 210 poneter orn: winter asc., 41 228 ill., 48 248 Ga 010. (Ca casus): Gatine, A.: death, 60 319 y S.W. ete,48 111 Gaunt, H. C. A.: sonnets, 68 261 . face, 1 t asc., 48 362, 49 81 Gauri Parbat: .,41 16 route towards, 62 41 · I., 49 8 1 1st asc., 52 45 Gh mu Bar gl. (Yasin): ill., 47 318 ill"liO 67 G rib, Ge I (Egypt): asc., 49 228 (route, 1st asc.), 52 44 · .,4923 Gauri Sankar rllJlge (Himalaya): 68 447 G i, E.: eath. 46 217 Gausden, J. G. S.: obit. & port., 67241 Gh 1Lasht om (Hunza): ill., 48 128-9 Gavarnie, Cirque de: 54 148 Gi bon, Ed ard: Gaylay (porter): discovery of his body on r. of Mt enis, 56 55 Nanga Parbat, 51 74 ~is appre iation of mountains, 57 57 INDEX TO VOLUMES ~9 to 58 31

Gibson, J. S. T.: 'Days in the Canadian Glyder FILch: ill. 63 119 Rockies,' 54 399 Godafossi (Iceland : ill., 40 94 Gibson, J. T. M.: 'The ascent of Bandar GOdefrO~R. : Punch,' 58 249 his bo k: La ature Alpine, 57 112 Giessen gl.: desc., 42 340 obit., 5208 Gilson, R. C.: Obit. & port., 51 121 Goethe: " Letters from Switzerland,' quoted, Girdlestone, A. G.: & the Matterhorn 53368i accident (1865), 57 369 Gag, Mt (Greenla d): asc., 45 396, 46 44 Girdlestone Pk. (N.Z.): ill., 49 96-. Goggs, F S.: obi ., 53 162 Girthi gorges (Garhwal): passage of, 5858 port., 3159 Gisighorn: aBO.,39 156,41 21n Goho (K rea): 4 105,110 Giulchi (Cauoasus): 42279 Goldsmit ,Mt ( Z.): _ lower pk., 1st asc., 42102 outsta ding res ue, 45 168, 306 higher pk., 1st asc., 42 283 1st aso , 45 Ins ill., 42 284-5 Gall, Ho er: by . face, 47 346 Oiuseppi, P. L.: obit. & port., 56 277 1st allC by Tric terweg, 50 86 Gjeitga.ljar (Lofoten): asc., 51 45 Gombu: port., 5 46 Glacier Carre, Breche du: 1st cr., 46 219 Gondolie e, Tete e: attempt, 52 210 Glacier dams: how formed, 44 239 Gonella, .: dea h, 45 397 Glacier fiea: ill., 66 360 Goodfell w, B. R : Gla.cierHouse (Selkirks): demolished,42141 'Wide angle tereollcopic photography,' ill., site of, 42 142 43 39 Glacier Pk. (N.Z.) : 'Five raverse in Dauphine,' 46 45 attempt, 41 314, 43 83 , Indi leave,' 55 373 history, 43 83 'Note on Nan alma, 1944,' 55 202 1st asc. from E., 43 86 'Berg der We t,' &8 219 ill., 43 84,-6-7, 45 306 , The eissho horseshoe,' 58 465 Glaciers: vertical retardation of ice of, note: an expe ition to Sikkim, 54 81 55271 the White ower,' 57 570 Glaciers, Aiguille des: aso., 40 408 rev. 0 Climbs f my Youth, 57 270 Glaciology: investigations of Forbes & Roc for Cli bing, 57 583 Agassiz, 54 377--8 Lak landSc apbook, 57 586 G1arnisoh: 58 256 Alp' e Glaci , 68429 Glazebrook, R. T.: obit., 48 158 Ber e der WIt, 1951,68429 port.,48 161 Good H e, Mt ( anada): Ishso., 47 76,290 Glendower, Mt (Canada): Gordam ,Pk. ( ikkim): 1st aac., 49 103 1st asc., 56 358 Gordon, t (Can daj: 53 332 ill., 58 354, 357 Gortu P s (Cau us): 47 162 Glenmore Lodge: ill., near, 56 209 Gos, A.: 53 173 Gletscher Ducan: ill., 66 122-3 his b ok: So venire d'un Peintre de Gletsoherhorn : Mo tague, 5 397 by N. &reteattained from N.W., 1st asc., axhibi ion of h paintings, 52 138 44 315 obit., 386 by N. face, 55 313 Gos, C.: ill., N.W. faoe (1932 route), 44 316 'A wi r's da at Courmayeur,' 50 228 GUere, Aiguille de la: accident: 1932: 'Mo tain so 'tude: notes of summer 44 346 day,51111 Glockner Gross: note: three gr at Italian guides, 50 320 acoident: 1932: 44 349 a f1 'ly of g 'eat guides, 52 133 ases., 46 78, 48 61, 53 349 J-ea -Joseph Carrel, 56 81 N.W. arate: dese. & tr. of S. half of Jea ·Henri avanel, 56 82 Glocknerwand, 46 411 wol as in th Valais, 56 292 Pallavicinirinne: asc., 40 185, 405 letter rom Sw zerland, 53 171 by German mountain troops, 51 328 hillbo ks: G6 eraux Suissescommandant ill., from Johannisberg, 48 61 . e chef l' ee Suisse de Mariguan a. relief of the group, 51 95 1 14,4549 contemporary pioture of 1st a8O.,51 95 Vo gedeS lS8urehorsdesAlpes,48376 Glooknerwand: attempt, 53 350 Alp nisme a ecdotique, 47 180 Glockturm: asc., 48 61 V0 geurll il ustres en Suisse, 50 164 Glouoester, Duchess of: expedition to Mt Tra Mies al trell, 52 157 Kenya, 48 184 Soli ude mo tagnarde, 54 446 Glover, G. T.: obit. of W. 1. Clark, 45 148 L'E pee ai stre, 55 112 Gliischaint, Piz: tr .• 43 15 La ervin,S 106 N. arete, 1st asc., 58 182 Alpine 'l'rag y, 57 115 32 INDEX TO VOLUJ(ES 39 t 58 Gos, C.: Grl$n Lake k. (Sikkim): 1st asc., 49 48 obit. of V. Sella, 54 292 Gre~l(l, R.: Joaef Pollinger, 55 309 • ountll: rescue in war and peace,' 55 20 H. Gouraud, 56 70 • he Gr e carrier,' 55 201 J. Henry, 56 281 I' v. of At ck on Everest, 49 131 obit., 57 235 o it. of F. S. Smythe, 57 233 port., 50 230 Or ne Carr er, the: 55 201 elected hon. member of Alpine Club, 51 325 Ore nland ( e Special List): ill., 42 242-50, Academic Fran9aise award, 65 425 180-9, 6 38-9, 49200-1, 61 108-9, 58 Gosau (Salzkammergut): climbs from, 58 1 4-5 275 Ore .nwood, . M. : obit. ofE. H. L. Wigram, Oosausee: ill., 49 243 304 Gostiaa., M. : Gr nwood, 'Tnglav N. face : Buttress or Skah\ p rt., 47 route,' 42 84 Gre n, Ai Gotch, H. G.: obit. & port., 62 268 a cs., 39 5, 48 27, 63 14" Gouraud, H. : , by E. fa e, 39 150, 40403, 43 244, 44 123, elected hon. member of Alpine Club, 61 325 . 4527 ,47 370n., 48347, 52225, 5397, obit. & port., 56 70 5755 Gouter, Aiguille du : by W. e, 39322 incident on, 49 63 in April 39 334 1st asc. by a woman, 67 462 e rly wst ry, 39 251 ill., 41 114-15 rand Gel darme byNantillons face, 42342 Gouter, DOme du : nubel C imney, asc., 40 61 accident: 1930: 42 356 1st gui eless, 39 150 1st asc.• 67 204 te Balfo 1', early history, 39154,252 by W. face, 41 430 S phen's attempt, 53 226 in winter, 41 228 t ., 47 , 266, 62 216, 53 98, 188, 370, desc. by N. face, 45 23S 55 282 Me. by guides (1786), 41 122 iI ., 39 2 ,256,45 270, 50227,53 102-6 ill., 41 114, 62 228 I Tour R uge hut, 48 348-9 Gover, W. H. : Gre~ten (No way): asc., 47 281 obit. of C. H. Brook, 51 306 Grejy Pk. (N Z.): asc., 44 142 obit., 53 379 Gri.letsch, 'z : Grabenhcrn: 1st recorded ase., 57 532 e traord' ry escape on, 39 113 Graham Land: 57 198 · ., S.W. ace, 39 116 Graham, R. :B.: obit. of 1. S. Osborn, 49 116 On in (Wal ): incident on, 54 36 Graham's Saddlc (N.Z.): cr., 39 273, 280, Gri ,Joha, (del' Koderba,cher): 40 113, 54 271 a,n as. of the Aiguille Vene from Graians: English travellers in, 66 51, 157, Argenti . e, 43 123 252,68273 Gri ,Johan II: 41 427 Grand Canyon (Colorado): ill., 46 322, 50 d a,th,42 23 258-9 Gn delwald: Grand St. Bernard Monastery: accident i winter, 1887, 57 10 near,39152 i ., about 1760, 40 269 Grange, Julien: his career, 52 263 guides f, about 1876,47160 Granier, Mt: landslip & ill., 57316 Gri delwald glaciers: Graaleitenspitze: asc., 54 36 le.ikie's 'sit to, 45 16 Grass, Christian: pert., 40 153 i .,40 26 ,60 189 Grass, Hans: port., 40 153 G . ons: fl de in, 40 185 Grave, La: accident near, 45 408 Gri el (of C urmayeur): 50 233 Graven, A.: port., 46 327 df3e.th,55 26 Graves, C.: quoted, re 1st asc. of Matter- Griyola: horn,53 365 t .,50 195 53 Ill, 67 295 Great End: incident on, 54 125 1 t asc. &fm Col de Bellefact', 63 231 Great Gable: Gd zly Bear : ill., 47 292-3 accident: 1942: 53 396 Gro manns tze: tr., 53 25 Oblique Chimney: 53176 Gr shorn: Greaves. A.: obit. of H. C. Jenkins, 46 191 a .oident: 1934: 46415 GredetschhOrnli: ill., 43 56 . face, 1 t MC., 44 314 Gredetschjoch: ill., 43 56 2nd asc , 47 145 Gredig, L.: port., 40 153 i ., N. fac (1932 route): 44 315 Green, Mt (N.Z.): tr., 39 342 Grotelle, Co. de (Corsica): asc., 40 173 asc.,413l5 Oru~en: hOre1Schwarzhorn burnt, 42 123

I INDEX TO VOLUMES ~9 to 58 33

Gruetta, Mte: by N. face, & ill., 50 135 HAAST, T (N.Z.): aae., 44 142 GriinhOrner: ill., 52 127 (& see 52 286) 2nd as . & 1st t .,39 167,283 Griinhornliicke: cr. on ski, 54 29 W. su mit atte pted, 45 311 Gschnitzer: new route on, 40 185 ill., 45 07 Gspaltenhorn : Habel C ek (Can a): ill., pk. at head of, ases. : 48 38 1 E. arete, 47 146 Habel, M (Canad ): asc., 46 84 in 1884,48 157 Habicht, e: as s., 41 297, 53 344 King's, from N.E. (1891),46210 ill., 41 98 • N.E. face, 1st, 44 313 Hackett, .: obi ., 55 89 S. face & E. arete, 45 154,54 26 port., 88 winter, 54 27 Hadow, .: port." 39 154 W. a,rete,deso., 55 313 Haidinge (N.Z.): ill., N.E. face, 41 214,46 211 S. pk., nd aso:, 39 165,272 (IQ32route), 44 313 ill.,45 06 S. face (1932route), 45 154 Hainswo h, W. Gueterbook, E. A. L. : ' The fi st ascen of Mt Oubliette,' 45 341 note: the acoident near Panjtal'ni, Kash· Hakuund a, Mt ( orea): 43 104 mir,45162 HlLle,R. Miss): eath, 50 9 Zermatt revisited, 58 274 Half Do e (Caluo nia): 46 97 obit. of C. F. Stoehr, 44 290 Hall, D.. W. : P. R. P. Miers,54 199 'New ealand tes, 1949-50,'57 538 Guggigl.: 1st travellers on, 55 58 'New ealand otes, 1950-51,' 58 215 GugJiermina,G. F. & G. B. : obit. 0 J. Ada son, 58 531 their book (with G. Lampugnani): Vette: Hall, jr., . S. : Ricordi di Esplorazioni e Nuove .Ascen· 'Ixtac 'huat! a d Popocatepetl,' 45 93 sioni sulle Alpi, 40 211 'Climb in the Coast Range of British Gugliermina, Pta.: asc. from S.S.W., 50 Colu bia,' 47 288 327 obit. 0 H. B. d Villiel'sSohwab,47 351 Guides: W.. Work an, 50 290 tlUoogreat Italian, 50 320 Hallberg, F. : Days with four great (Spenoer's paper), his bo k (with H. Muokenbrunn): The 53 185 Com lete Boo of Ski·ing, 49 139 licensingof N.Z., 43 398 Haller, breoht on: his Alpine jourueys, Berchtesgaden,41 426 58 96 Kaisergebirge,41 426 Hallerma. ern: 44 247 Courmayeur,50 234 Hamel, D .: his creer, 58 169 Zermatt, 53 12 Hamilton R.: Dolomite, 53 23 his boo (with . W. Eason): A portrait Cortina, 53 348 of Mi hael Ro rts, 67 424 malpractices of Ortler, 53 351 Hamilton Mt (N .. ): aocident, 48 288 ill., Grindelwaldguidesabout 1876,47 160 ascs., 3 342, 42 348, 49 93 Guillemin,P.: death, 40 404 1st tr. Malte run, 58 216 Gulba (Caucasus): 1st asc. by E. ridge, Hanbury. racy, J : his book: Black River 49 276, 50 26 of Tibe , 50 351 Gullfoss(Iceland): 40 86 Hannibal his cro ing of the Alps, 55 405 Gunong Tahan (Malaya): asc., 54 426 Hanson,.: 'Co rmo,yeur,1948,' 57 26 Gunther, A. E. : Hanuman (Garhw I): attempt, 58 54 'The Sierra Nevada of the Upper Kern Hanuman Pk. (Ga hwal): aso., 65 185 River, California,' 41 328 ill., 55 84 'A visit to the Andes, of Venezuela,' 62 Haramus Pass(K rakorum): 1st or., 52207 70 Harding, . R. J . •The asoent of PiooBonpland in the Andes his boo : LIan ria Paas (Climber's Club of Venezuela,' 63 127 Guid ), 58 54 note: Mta Mallory & Irvine, 40416 Hardy, H H.:' umble Pie,' 56 99 GrossGlockner,46 411 Hare, ].~U~OObe\1a: the St. Gervais route to Venezuelan.Andes,52 133 Mt Bla c, 1856, 7462 rev. of MontaPacifique, 68 417 Haringer, Rudolf: death,48 73 CordillereBlanche, 58 542 Harll), H.: obit., 297 Gurdon, B. E. M.: obit., 67 407 Harpel', . P. : Gurtner, O. : 'Fut.y ears ago' 63 90 note: the accident on the Ruohenfenster- note: ;e frien hip of guides, 53 391 turm, 49 285 instru tional c uraes, 56 186 Jungfrau, N.E. ar~te, 50 145 Feder tionofCubsinNewZealand,55221 34 INDEX TO VOLU~E839

Harper, A. P. : Ha$d' J. e V.: obit. of I. P. Hazard, his book: Memories of Mountains and 5 76 Men, 56 87 lIaz rcham ass (Persia): cr., 47 302 obit. of S. Turner, 41 402 He d, H. J.: obit. & port., 43 343 M. Ross, 42 309 He on, W .. : death, 53 264 E. Teichelmann, 51 124 Hi" G.: hi book: Alpine FlOWN'S,42148 T. C. Fyfe, 56 284 He ,Albe : H. C. Chambers, 58 526 etieth irthday,41 223 tribute to C. G. Bruce, 52 106 oit.,4929 H. E. G. Tyndale, 57 95 p rt., 49 25 elected hon. member of Alpine Club, 44131 He' ,Arnol : his book (with A. Gansser): Ha.rper, C. J. S.: obit., 50 293 T n der Gatter, 50 163 port., 50 296 He , Mt ( eland); Hama, B. K.: 'Youth and the hills,' 55145 1 t asc., 259 Ha.rris, E. B.: obit., 47 135 c., 40 8 port., 47 132 Hel ronner, P.: death, 51 137 Harris, P. Wyn : Hel ronner, ; tr. to Tour Ronde, 44 323 , Mount Kenya,' 41 362 Hel golalld: climbing in, 61 33 note: Mount Kenya, 41 220 Hel ardalsh thi Pass (Iceland): cr., 40 93 Harrison, H. E. B. : Hel etia, . (Greeuland): 1st asc., 51UO obit. of M. Pole, 52 275 He derson, . W.: death, 43 179,427 obit., 53 259 He derson, • A., rev. of The Tetons: inter- Hartley, G. W.: obit. & port., 52 268 p etations of a Mountain Landscape, 51154 Hartley, J. W. : He y, Abb Joseph: obit. & port., 56 281 tribute to H. S. Hoare, 42 299 He , P.: his book (with L. Devies): La obit. & port., 44 110 aine du Mont Blanc, ITI, 57 275 Hartmann, H.: his Nanga Parbat diary, He!burn, M L.: obit., 53 376 49220,223 He p, G.: is Nanga Parbat dia.ry, 49 220-1 Ha.skett-Smith, W. P.: 54 113 He bert, E .. : tribute to G. Halltings, 53 70 . o it. of S. J•• Pearce, 56 277 obit. of W. G. Collingwood, 45 150 i P. H. lditch, 57413 W. A. Brigg, 50 124 . ! W. Sed wick, 58 395 obit. & port., 55 416 He~betet, M : asc., 57 296 Hasler, G. A. : i* winter, 49 127 'TheAlmers and their Fiihrerbiicher, 51 257 H6Iiens, D d' : 'A few climbs With Christen Jossl,' 53 132 ;Xoident: 1943: 54 316 , Hoc erat in votis,' 54 23 i 1948: 56 406 , Two notable Oberlanders,' 54 161 cll.,48 39 obit. of Christen Kaufmann, 51 130 · by E. a ~te, 50 137, 58 523 Fritz Amatter, 58404 by W.• W. face, 42 323, 43 13 Fritz Steuri, 58 121 •by S.E. face, 41 413 presented with the Freedom of Grindel· ~t.of Mat erhorn ridge, 41 430, 65 220 wald,49128 .. ,6613 ascs. of the Faulhorn, 61 333, 56 185, 403 W.N.W face, 43 12 death, 58 530 HeJ,lin,Jean Baptiste: 43 182 Hasler, M.: obit. of P. Bernet, 51 319 He~mansdal . d (Lofoten): asc., 51 49 death, 54 78 He mit Ran e (Canada): ill., 54 155 Ha.ssreidter, V.: note: records oftha Alpine He ·ta.ge ( .Z.): 1st cr. from, to W.eoast, Club,41225 234 ... Hastings, G. : death, 53 70 He mon, M : asc., 40 339 Hathi Parbat: ill., 50 67, 52 36, 45 i .,4034 Hattel'lJlay-Smith, G.: • King George Is- H ron gl. ( aska): 47 242 land,' 68 67 He schel, S' John: & the Breithom, 57 298 Hawksley, J. C. : .. , draw' gs by, 57 298-303 'A short holiday in the mountains of He og, M. Sinai,' 54 408 :~napu a.,'58 155 , Nordsaulo,' 57 481 · book: Annapurna, premier 8,000 m., Hawley, Mt(Ca.nada) : Istaso.,40383, 41354 158420 Hawort.h I..ake (Canada): ill., 68 356 Hi' rtley, C A.: 67100 Hayden, H. : ected ho . member of Alpine Club, 44131 his book (with C. Cosson): Sport and oath, 48 359, 404 Travel in the Highlands of Tibet, 40 205 bit.,57 67 Hayes, Mt (Alaska): 1st asc., 53 172 Het.,,Wilso H.: note: Mountain rescue in Hazard, I. P.: obit., 68 76 ace an war, 65 190 INDEX TO VOLUMES 3t to 58 35

Heybroek, W.: , Two Cauca.sia,1ljourneys,' 47 103 enzori,' 63 309 •A second Cttucasian tramp,' 48 86 HeyWood, G. S. P.: his book: Ra.mbles in Hong Kong, 51 157 Heywood, M. B.: obit. & port., 56 279 Heywood, N. A.: death, 50 316 Hicks, P. H. : , Mount Kenya.-first a,soent of the North face,' 55 76 • , Ruwenzori: Mount Gessi revisited,' 56 17 port.,5581 from Hickson, Mt ~Canada): ill., 47 80-1 Hidden Pk. (Gasherbrum I, Karakorum) : attempted, 48 359 iII., 39 215, 223, 231 Higravstind (Lofoten) : asc.,43 269-70, 5152 Hill, F. W.: death, 47 367, 48 218 Hills, J. D.: obit. of H. E. E. Howson, 46 188 Hills, L. D.: his book: The Propa.gation of Alpines, 57 578 Himachal: 43 389 Himalaya.: (see Specia,l List) annual summary of expeditions: 1936: 48 185. 359 1938: 50 147, 324 1939: 51139,327 1947: 56188 1951: 58 269 1952: 58 533 Himalayan Assa,ult: the French Hima,layan Expedition, 1936, rev. of, 50 349 Himalayan Committee: 56 202 Himalayan JO\ll'1lal: rev. of No.1, 41 442 Hima.layan nomenclature: 49 106 Hingston, R. W. G. : his book: A Naturalist in Himalaya, 393tl2 rev. of Sport and Travel in the Highlan~B of Tibet, 40 205 Hinks, A. It. : obit., 55 216 Hinton, H. A.: death, 49 271 Hints to Travellilrs: rev. of, 50 352 Hispar Pass: cr., 50 50 Hispar Wall, the South: ill., 52201 Hoare, H. S.: obit., 42 298 port., & Corbett's tribute, 43 179 Hochblassen: ill., 46 77 HoohfeUer: asc., 48 70 III ill., 46 64-5 Hoohfemer: by N.E. ridge, 48 69 II Hochgall: &So.,46 78 .. Ii i11.,4O 300 Hochgebirgsfiihrer durch die Berner Alpen : I! vol. iv, rev., 43 417 vol. iii, rev., 44 160 ,ir: Hochjoch: use of sledges on, 63 61 Hochschwab: accident: 1937: 49 286 Hochstetter Dome (N.Z.): aso., 42 348 II on ski, 49 89 I Hochter: aocident: 1936: 48 375 ill, N. faoe, 44 248 Rochtor group: 44 249 i Hochwanner: ten dttys on, 50 147 Iii ~ I I' .. I \'------t-t---.------:00",",.0.•. , INDEXTOVOL::i':.:t:. omt of H. I. J",~. , The American Karakoram expedition to 6 241 K 2,' 51 54 Hu ton,1\1t N.z.): 2nd asc., 41 234 obit. ofN. R. Streatfield, &367 Houston, O. R..: 'Note on the Herron glacier,' 47 242 Howard, E.: obit. & port., 40 150 Howard, G. E.: , Illusions,' 39 258 'A mountaineering family,' 55 134 'Alpine Uplift,' 67 1 letter re' 57 564 rev. of Postcript to Adventure, 57 588 obit. of E. Howard, 40 150 (soo Perrons de Howard, H.: death, 46 206 Howard, J. W.: 'A few days on Mount Kenya,' 65 284 Howson, H. E. E.: death, 45 407,414 obit. & ports., 46 188 Hualcan (Andes) : S. pk., 1st MC., & ill., 46 42 Huandoy (Andes): 1st asc., 4542 ill., 45 40-1 Huascaran (Andcs): 1st asc., 44 329, 45 40 1\1isspeck's supposed MC., 45 38 ill., 45 36-8 Huber, E. : his book (with N. Rogers): The Complete Ski Manual, 57 276 Huber, Mrs.: death,52 137 Hug, 0.: obit. of H. Lauper, 48 '336 HUhnerstock: asc., 43 120, &5244 Hull, R. A.: &7 573 death. &7 253 ' obit. & port., 57 415 Hiillehorn: 1st MO. by E. face, .0 168, 456 Humble, B. H.: his book: On Scottish Hills, li6 91 Humboldt, Pioo (Venezuela) : 1st MC., 53127 ill••52 85, 63 130 Humphreys, G. N.: 'Ruwenzori,' 39 99 , rev. of Snow on the Equator, 50 153 awal-dedMurchison Grant ofR.G.S., 45 402 '( Humphreys Pk. (California): 46 96 Hungaboo (Canada): asc., 54 402 Hunt, C. A.: 'Sketching in the Alps,' &2 1 paintings reproduced, 52 1,4,5,53 1 Hunt, D. N. B.: death, 47 374 n. obit. & port., 48 166 Hunt,J. : 'The expedition to Peak K 36, 1935,' 47282 'An expedition in the Sikkim Himalaya,' 50109 'A winter expedition to the Zemu glacier,' 63 194 • Pentedhaktilos, l 67 192 , Mountains of the Near East,' &8203 , Dauphine peaks in storm,' 68 226 rev. of Escalades au Hoggar, 58 541 Hunter, Mt (Alaska): 47217,235,240 Hunza: unknown passes in, 48 129 Hurst, L. H.: 'Notes on climbing in Tunisia and Cyprus,' 57 545 note: expedition to Ala Dag, 1945, 55222 Praraye, 1951, 58 275 37

Irving, R. L. G. : Jaloveo: !N. face, 1st asc., 40 179 rev. of Blue Guide to Switzerland, 57 113 ill., 179 Travellers in Switzerland, 57 265 James,40162'C. AS.hwo h.. : death, 49 271 l\lontagnes ma Vie, 57 272 James, M H. (Mis ): death, 51 J.37 La Montagne n'a pas voulu, 57273 .Tamnotri Hlmala ll.): 55176 Montagnards, 57 273 Janga (C ucasus): La Vallee de Saas, 57 273 tr.,43 00 Alpiuisme et Competition, 57 433 by N. Ii ce, 46 1 1 Vocation Alpine, 57 575 E. pk., aso., 49 1 Challenge, 57 576 ill., 46~13' 49 8 I, 50 29 Trois Cures en Montagne, 68 146 N. £. e (1935 oute),46 112-13 Traveller's Prelude, 58 148 Jannu: 1 .,4220- L' Amateur d' Abimes, 58 278 JaRanes~ps (se also Special List): 5625 Contes a Pic, 68 279 Ill., 41 -18 - Au Coeur des Alpes, 68 280 Jardin, guille d : Armapurna, premier 8,000 m., 68 420 tr. to 'guille V rte, 39 143,52 139 Speaking of Switzerland, 58 426 by a n route, 1 60 Zum dritten Pol. Die Aohttausender cler Jaun, An reas: hrerbuoh, 57219 Erde, 68 548 Jaun, Jo nn: F' rerbuch, 57318 on ~AJpineUplift, 57 573 Javelle, his b vouao, 52 142 obit. of H. E. G. Tyndale, 56 386 ill.,52 29 his essay: 'The Mount,ains Shall Bring .Tazzi,Ci a di: a c., 47 248, 63 283, 66 132, PClWe,'mentioned, 56 79 58470 , Iseran, Col d': road opened, 49 277 Jeffery, T T.: rie th, 52 284 Isere, Val d': occurrence of manganesl' Jefferv, near,43 151 rev: of .M.C. Guide, Glencoe & Ardgour, Ishkoman, Upper: 46344 5727 I ill., 46 345, 47 321 obit. of R. ConY, 53 158 Isolated Pk. (Canada): asc., 46 84, 55 67 Jenkins, . S.: d th, 42 337 IsolOO,L': asc., 43 238 Jenkins, . L.: 0 it. of G. M. Bell, 56 173 Israel: mte of, 40 338 Jenldns, . C.: 0 it., 46 191 Istor,o-Nal: attempts, 42 131, 47374 port., 188 1935 attempt, 48 118 Jenkins, . R. : ill., 48 118-19 'A ligh expedi ion to the Central Cau- Italian Alps: closing of, 39 207, 41 I, 398, casus' 1937, 12 41 218,260,418,42 lI9, 337, 43 179,881, , TribUi to par rersbip,' 53 95 44 131, 329, 45 156, 397 note: aucasus 1937,49276 facilities for, 46 207, 220 the lte Mr.. V. M. Barry, 50 151 Italians, Pt•. of the (Cauoasus): asc., 42 287 the I te Mr. bert L. Beaumont, 50 Ixtaccihuatl (Mexico): 45 93 31 ill., 45 94-5 Ref e Cheva 'er, 50 326 l'ev. of lountai ring, 53 178 Mou tain Ph tography, 65 335 death, 8190 JAOKSON,A. D.: death, 64 50 obit., 174 Jackson, E. W.: her book: Switzerland port., 178 Calling, 39 368 Jenny, E.: death, 52284 Jackson, James: death, 39 205 Jesih, P. Miss): Jackson, W. S.: death. 66 184 'Trigla! North face: Buttress or SImla Jacquemot, General: death, 43 392 router' 42 84 Jacques, A.: his book: Ski de Descente, Joch Passl: Memo 'al,cairn on, 54206 57427 - Joffre, M~t(Canad ): Ill., 42 70 Jagerhorn: aso., 40 393, 53 282 Johns, W G.: ob t., 63 163 tr.,43 11 port., 162 Jitgerjooh: or., 47 360, 53 286 . Johnson,!.: dea h, 39 144, 206 Jitgihom (Baltschieder): S.E. ridge, 44 277 Jones, H.fO': & t e Italian side ofMt Blanc, ill, 44 277-8, 28()....I 57137 Jagta (Norway): MC., 58 223 Jones, J. H. Eml : 'Adventures in Ex- ill., 66 222 haustio ,. 57 17 Jahn, A.: his ascs. in Venezuelan Andes, Jonsong ~a (Hima ya): cr., 42 217 63130 ill., 42 16, 221 Jailik (Cauoasus): S. face, 1st aso., 49 276, Jonsong k.: 1st c., 42 220 50 20 . 2nd ascj, 42 222 ill., 50 21 ill., 42 ~2o-1, 46 129 38

JorllSses, Grandes : Juli~n, Mt ( nada): 1st IISC.by N.E. face accidents: 1931: 43 406 259, 67 1934: 46 420 ill ,43 259 E. face, 1st asc., 63 390 Juli n, Mt St (Canada): 1st aBC., 43 169 2nd asc., 58 131 Jum~ aux de altournanche, Les : early ascs., 43 68 ~. Giord no: 1st asc. by E. face,.44 121 N. face: illj, E. (1931 route), 44 120 attempts, 40 404 Jumrok&l.1 ( ulgaria): aBc.,46 159 banned, 47 157 illl,46 160 asc., 1st, 47 356, 48 73 Junr;.au: 2nd, 48 75 aqoidents: 1931: 43 409 3rd,48 76 ! 1936: 48 368, 372 n. Pte Walker, 1st, 50 302 ! 1948: 56 406 asc., 57 259 s.'by • face, 45 384 N.E. ar~te: 1st asc., 40 404, 41 203 from N. 42 3, 45 44, 46 390 (desc.), aBC.,57 244, 397 52 12 , 53 100, 103, 143, 55 313, 361, in March, 58 295 5716 1st British guidclcss, 58 519 by N.E. arete: 40 175, 48 360, 50 312, RE. (Tronchey) arete : · 53 9,388 1! supposed 1st o.sc.,40 403. 41 220 attain from N., 44 325. 48 161 1st asc., 48 360 &; Ro brettgrat, 42 327,375 S.S.E. face, asc., 41 220 i by N.W face, 43 376 tr., 1st W.-E., 42 342, 43 63, 46 412 i by Rot ttgrat, 52 285 W.·E., 45 406 !from talsattel,43 121, 55 247 ill., 43 64-5, 48 75-9 Iby S. fi e, 1st direct, 40 165 N. face, 43 63, (1935 route) 47 356 &; 'winter, 134, 54 28 48 74, 58 328 IFritz S uri's I,OOOth,52284,53 175 Jorasscs, Col des Grandcs : r~kfall jj m N.E. arete, 49 280, 50 145 desc. of French side, 53 17 T i.OIY&; Pilkington routes (1862). 40 1st cr. &; subsequent controversy, 53 82, 357 57320 T mlaten aI, desc. to, 44 57 . Jorasscs, Petites: asc., 39 142 i .,6212 7 N.W. face, 1st asc., 41 430,42 101 S. face, 0 165-6 ill., 39 142, 4053 1862 ro tes, 40 358 Jorasses, Tour des: 1st asc., 43 367 from E. 40359, (various routes) 45 384 ill., from S. (1931 route), 43 368 from N•• ,57 17 .Jose, T. P. H.: obit., 42 299 N.W. fa 6 (1931 route), 43 376 Joseland, H. L. : N. face (1932 route), 44 325 &; 45 48, \ • The Kebnekaise district, Sweden,' 41 355 (1926 route) 45 44, (various routes) I note: climbing in Sweden, 40 405 45 62 Ii Swedish mountaineering clubs, 41 419 N.E. ar te, 45 58, 50 141 .'. rev. of Andreegatan, 47 179 seene 0 1931 accident, 43 410 obit. &; port., 57 241 Jun8fraujoc : .Joseph Croux, Aiguille: by a novel itinerary, ct., 39 50 52139 in 1889, 39 340, 40 188 J ossi, Christian: ier res arch party, 50150 his olimbs with Hasler, 53 132 h story, 49 Spencer's appreciation, 53 187 r ehed fi m Rotbrett hut, 53 387 summary of Fuhrerbuch, 63 187 n. Ju omkara Caucas:us): from S.E., 50 22 ports., 53 134, 191 tI .' Jossi, Ohristian (sohn) : I his career, 54 161 port., 53 191, 54 162 Jostedalsbraeen (Norway): 47272 K: ~mpts American expedition (1938), ill., 47 276-7 5154 Jotunheim: accident; 1939: 51 342 · Ameri expedition (1939), 51 328, Joyce, J. B.; 'A Mountain School,' 54443 i 5228 'In the Dolomites with an Orientalist,' · propos Italian expedition (1929), 40 55 362 399, 1429 Jubilee, Mt (Canada): 1st asc., 47 291 Iight, 42 202 Julian Alps: 44 78, 49 104, 50 90 istory,5 54 1927 season, 40179 ~ • face, 46 accident: 1932: 45 158 ili1.,39 21 31, 5042-7, 51 54-64- huts in, 50 91 K ~6: 1935 attempt, &; ill., 47 282 INDEX TO VOLUME." 3. to 58 39 Kabru: asc., 48 182 Kagami, T. Y.: 'The South-east face of Mont Maudit,' 42 288 Kallas Parbat (Tibet): tour of, 40 23 reconnaissance, 55 316 ill., 40 23-7 Kain, Conrad : 41360 his book: Where the Clouds can go, 46 413, 47 382 his last 1st &80., 48 403 obit. & port., 48 195 Kaisergebirge: 48 77 0.,63343 . Kaiser, Wilder: accident: 1930: 42 349 ka): let &80., &6 141 Kakartoq Napasudleraq (Greenland): &8C., 68200 ael): 40339 ill., 58 194-5 Kalbermatteu, Theodor: obit., 57 92 Kalken: 68 266 Kalkkogel: 41 299 asc., 53 345 ill., 41 299 Kalli gl.: accident: 1936: 48 374 Kaltber range (Cauoasus): ill., 48 96 Kamet, Mt: 1931 exped., 1st asc., 43 289 (see also 45 427) summary of, 43 306 attempt by soldiers (1937), 49 239 poem (G. Yeld), 49 241 ill., 43 188, 289-307, 49 238-9, 50 67, 78 Kangohenjunga : accidents: 1930: 42 363 1931: 43 412 attempts: l!'armer (1929), 42 363 MOil., 40 405, Bavarian (1929), 42 73, 185 Internationa.l (1930), 42 131, 202 correspondence re, 43 217, 426 Bavarian (1931),43189, 397,44 13 cost of, 44 139 history, 42 204 N.E. spur, height of, 45 166 314, ill., N.E. face & spur, 42 185 N.E. spur, 42 192-5, 44 14-15 N. ridge, 42 210 N.W. ridge, 42 214-15 from Jonsong Pk., 42 202 from Jonsong La, 42 217 from Sugar Loaf, 44 21 various: 42 74, 2111 44 16-22 Karagom (Caucasus): &8OS., 47 113 ill.,47115 Karakorum (see also Special List) : name, origin of, 39 237 Italian exped., 40 399, 41 429 International (1934), 48 219, 413 British (1938), 51 231 British (1939), 51 139,328,52195 .: obit. & port., 41 193 Karakorum Pass:. 39 237 obit. of Q. W. Ha.rtleY', Karambar g1. (Gilgit): 48 345 Kara Tingai Tau (Pamirs): ill., 41 265 Karohkal (Caucasus): ill., 48 286-7 64, 47 369, 63 173, 309, Karl Marx Pk. (Pamirs): aso.: 57 186

------,------.------.------I I

40 INDEX TO VOLUMlJiJ8 39 ~68 Kenya, Mt : Ki~' anjaro ascs.: .. Batiall: 2nd,41 220,366 Kibo.,so.'tary, 46 205

by W. ridge, 57 94 'I by S. ace, new ro.ute,50 149 Dutton Pk.: 1st, 43 139 Mawenz,43 145,50 149 Midget Pk.: 1st, 43 144 1st by a lady, 40 77 N. face: 1st, 56 76 list o.f to 1927,40 84, 454 desc., 57 94 height, 445 Nelio.n: Ist.,41 220,366 ill., 40 7 -9 Pt. Jo.hn: 1st, 42 118 Kil et.bashi CaucasUll): 1st asc., 46 224 Pt. Lenana: 63 311, 54 78 Ki , H. S.: o.bit. & port., 46 176 Pt. Peter: 1st, 43 139, 55 285 Kin , S. L.: relics o.ffatal accident·faund, Pt. Piggott: 1st, 43 144,5794 3 164,40195 S. face: 1st, 55 400 Kin, S. W., r. & Mrs.: travels in Graians, Sendeya: Ist,43 144 5 255 tr., 55 284 Kin GeorgeIsland: exped. to, 58 67 Tereri: tr., 55 285 Kin '8 Pk. ( laska): ill., 39 22 various: 42 H8, 60 324, 53 215, 55 286 Ki spitz (E gelhorner): 1st asc. by E. face, history, 55400 48 861 ilL, correctian re, 48 184 cident: 1988: 50 836 N. fa.ceexplared, 42 117 Kir patrick, W. T. : Twin Pks., Jst tr., 43 138 • arters I have knawn,' 46 154 ill., N.E. face, 41 366 . baok: AlpineDays and Nights, 44 374 fram N.W., 47 372-3 0. it. af R. P. Hape, 42 303 Nelian, S.E. face, 63 212 0. it., 63 1 0 fram S.W., 63 312-13 p rts.,48 32,53 158 fram S., 63 312-13 Kir us, C. F : N. face (ro.utes),5&sO h boak: Let's go Climbing,53 276 S. face (rautes), 5&404-5 a it., 54 3 3- variaus,41 364-5,43 140-5,53 216-17, Ki r (Parte): death, 4925 313 Kit hener, t (Canada): 1st asc., 48 291 Kerkeslin, Mt (Canada); 1st Mc., 40 197 Ki urtli K (Caucasus): attempt, 42 133 Kerling Massif(Iceland): 48 320 Ki a, Mt ( nada): Ist asc., 41 238 Kern River Calian: 41 331' Kj rringa ( o.rway): asc. & ill., 40 176 Kerr, Mt (Canada): asc., 55 67 Kle ner Soh eizer-Chronick: extracts from, Kasch, Piz: ski ase., 51 148 129 Kasselspitze: asc., 41 301 KIa ketind ILofo.ten): asc., 51 50 Kesteven, T. L.: Klu hevska a, Mt (Kamchatka): pro.po.sed o.bit.af G. H. Marse,43 334 expediti n,42 339 C. Wilsan, 50 122 1 t asc., 132 abit. & port., 52 116 Kl ker, Ch . tian : Khampar Pks. (Yasin): ill., 47 319 s bo.o.k: El'rinerungen eines Berg- Khan Tengri (Tien Shan): attempt, 48 363 ffihre 's,43 196 Khardang La (Kashmir): cr., 39 211 Advent res af an Alpine Guide, 44 148 Kharta Changri (Himalaya): asc., 48 9 r cavery, 0405 ill., 48 13 a N.E. f e af Lyskamm, 40 116 Khartaphu (Himalayas) :. asc., 48 7 a N. are af Piz Badile, 63 19 Khianistra (Cyprus): 58 207 a it. & P .,41 198 Khrumko.ltau (CaUC/l.llUB):tr., 42347 ematial a, & ilt, 42 123-4 Kichkidar (Caucasus): tr., 50 19 Kn ts far 0 'mbers: 40 120, 340 ill., 50 20 il ., 40 12 -33,347 Kidd, J. H.: death, 43 381, 44 173 Kn wltan, .: her baok: The Naked Kidineis Magali (Oaucasus): 1\ountain, 46 237 S. ar~te, 1st tr., 48 105 Ko tser, D.. : death, 46403,47 195 Ki/llapait Mts (Labrador): 46 37 Ka an, G.: his book (with N. Leininger) : Kilimanjara : rdillere Blanche, 58 542 ascs. : Ko.Gasa (J pan): asc., 41 19 Gihnan Pk., 46 206, 50 324 Ka ler, Mellhio.r: death, 53 387 Kaiser Wilhelm Spitze, 46 206, 47 369 Ka sukur-b hi (Pamirs) : aBC.an ski, 41157 Kiba, 43 146, 50 149 Kal hai, Mt (Kashmir): aBC•• 39 79, 58 533 1st by a lady, 39 339, 40 80 .. , 39 84 carrespandence re, 40 82, 454 Ko. haja (0 UCIlBUS):aSC.,42 346 2nd by a lady, 40 455 Ko tatau ( aucasUll): 1st asc., 48 115 list af, to 1927,4084,454 Ka,ciBta, K eine (Tatra): asc., 48 21 INDEX TO VOLU MES ~9 to 581 41 Konigsspitze : KUnigk'~· .: 'T e German-American Hima- ascs. : layan xpeditio , 1932,' 44 192 by N.E. face, 53 352 Kunyan gl. (Kalakorum); 51 239 1st by Via Direttis8ima, 43 177 ill., 61f240 3rd, 50 148 KnpoIat u (Cau asus): 1st asc., 49 270, from Ktlnigsjoch, 53 347 6021 tr. by N.W. arete & S. face, 53 356 Kurmichli (Cauc us); asc.,42 132-3 Korea, Climbs in, 43 103 Kurz, Jo~ph: 4 426 Kosa gl.: & route towards GaUfi Parbat, Ku1"l.,Luis: 5241 his bo ks: G 'de de 180 Chaine du Mont ill., 52 36 Bane (3rd ed.), 39 364 Koshi, Mt (Formosa): aso., 48 336 Gui e de I ChaJne du Mont Blanc Koshtantau (Caucasus) : (4 h cd.), 7390 accident: 1888; 47 160 death, 63 386. by S.E. arete & new desc., 42 347 Knrz, arcel : 'Maurice Crettez, 1872- N. a'rete: 1st asc., 42 102 194 ,'58 30 attempted, 48 223 not·e: Piz Pal' , N. face, 43 385 S.W. face: 1st asc., 48 110 his bo ks: G 'de des Alpes VaIaisannes, E. arete; asc., &8134 v I. ii, 41 41, 453 tr. by W. & N. aretes, 49 83 Be ina·Filh er, 44 376 ill., 48 110 Gui e des pes Valaisannes, vola. 1 & N. arete, 48 221 1 1,6016 N.E. faoe & E.arete, 48 224 Gui e du Sk eur dans les Alpes Valais- from S.W., 48 112 a es, vol. 1 & 2, 55 335 Krause, E.: Gui e des A es Valaisannes, vola. IlIa his book (with V. Vareschi): Mountains in &! lllb, 6 541 Flower, 62 156 Krenek, L.: note; Lahul expedition, 1939, 62135 Kretschmer, H. E.: death,68 191 LABRADR (see wlso Special List): 43 394, obit., 68 181 48 7 Kroeber, F.: death. 40 179 ill., 48 26--33 Krokbammertind (Lofoten): asc., 61 49 Lac Bla c, Aigui e du; ilL, 67 164-5 Kronig, St: his book: Familien-Statistik Lacey, .: und Gesohichtliches iiber Zermatt, 40 434 rev. 0 Britain' Mountain Heritage, 54 86 Krtlnte: by S. face, 48 175 Lak land H liday, 54 87 ill.,48176-7 Lachsi ( ikkim): 1st asc., 60 271 Krottenkopt', Gross: asc., 53 341 Ltdd, . S.: Krumkholbashi (Caucasus): 2nd asc., 49 83 note~. Americ n expeditions, 44 334 ill., 49 81 Am i Machi range, 46 160 Kuffner, M. von: obit., 61 311 obit. fA. Car e, 44 291 port., 51 310 death, 57 255, 41 Kugy, J.: Ladtjo I (Swed ): ill., 50 249 his books: Die Julischen A1pen im Bilde, Le.dtjoj ure, Lak (Sweden): ill., 41 359 48 237 Lady Cl mbers: arly, 5451, 68 184 . Alpine Pilgrimage, 48 428 Lagarde, J.: his ok; Guide Vallot, vol. iv, Anton Oitzinger: oin Bergfiihrorleben, 42 37~ 48194 Lago, ~da da: ascs., 46327,6329, &4119 Son of the Mountains, 50 154 ill., 23 Fiinf Jahrhunderte Triglav, 60 100 Lagrev, iz: 66 12 1m Gottlichen Llicheln des Monte Rosa, by W., face, 46 385 53 174 . Lahul ~. cs., in, 62 135 Ans vergangener Zeit, 56 333 ill.,5 239 elected hon. member of Alpine Club, LaiIa C in (Can asus): ill., 60 28 46 406 Lakelan Fella: ircuits of, 41 50 80th birthday, SO 320 L&loue, .: obit., 54 293 his b ok (wit L. Devies): Guide du ports., &4289, 65 334 M if des E rins, 56 435, 58 541 Kukur Gap (Sikkim): reached, 49 43 Lama O~ROngbU Monastery: death, 68 530 Kulaktau (Caucasus): 1st tr. of 3 pks., 42 Lama nden ( ikkim): 1st Me., &4 82'; 104 5537 Kulu: 53323 Lamb, R.: obit. 40 159 ill., 62 234--9, 53 328-9 Lamme~ E. G.: his book: Wie anders ist Kumaon; ill., passes, 40 28-9 das B¢steigen er Alpen geworden, 49 297 42 INDEX TO VOLUMfB 39 to/58

Lamp~k group (G~t'hwa.l): climbs in, &854 Lav~edo, Tl' Cime di : Lampugnani, G. : Oi a Oed entale (Westliehe Zinne): by his book (with G. B. & G. F. Gug1iermina) : • fuce, 7 373, 48 182 Vette: Ricordi di Esplorazioni e Nuove C'. a Picc Ill. (Kleine Zinne): by N. face, Ascensioni sulle Alpi, 40 211 4632 ,5328,54 147, 55 280 L~msenjochspitze: by W. f~ce, 46 77 !accident: 1935: 47374 Lancaster, G. H.: obit., 57 560 lill., 53 2 Lo,ne, F. C.: his book: The Story of qma. Picc lissima (Kleinste Zinne): ill., Mount~ins, 58 138 , 5322 Langford-James, R. L.: obit., 57 89 La\der, R. .: Langkofel: aso., 45 274, 47 269, 53 26 • tor-o-n : the 1935 attempt,' 46 lIS ill., 47 270-1 o it. of D. N. B. Hunt,48 166 Langstrandtinder (Lofoten): asc., 61 52 La ford, Be son: • The Valley of the Orbe,' L~nguard, Piz: aIlC.by octogenarian, 50 327 5 367 Languepin, J. J.: o it., 57 8 his book (with L. Payan): Nanda Devi: rt.,57 4 3· Expedition Fran~ a. I'Him~laya, La rence, Tomas: & Switzel'land, 55 4U 58429 La ton, E .. ; death, 42 336 Lo.nin, Pic (Andes): 1st aso., & ilL, 45 328 'stan ( 'a Minor): exoursion to, 44 333 Lapensee, Mt (Canada); lat aac., 40 196 La f, W.: La Perouse (N.Z.): asc.,46 284 's autob ography: Walter Leaf, 1852- Lapland, Arctio: 50 248 : 1927, 375 La.pporten Pass (Lap1o.nd): cr., 50 255 it. & ft., 39 123 Laquinhom: asc., 43 122, 50 327 . h, Mt ( ckiee): asc., 41 429, 42 48 by W. face, 1st direot, 43 374 .Le~ anon: 73 ill., W. face (1931 route), 43 375 Le !Blond, ubrey (Mrs.) : La.quinjoch: or., 45 383, 52 65 bit. of ss K. Richardson, 40 160 Largo, Cima del: &80.,43 377, 55 15 bit. & P rts., 46 382 Lashar Plain (Himalaya): 46 129 Le lere, J. B. : Lashkarak Kuh (Persia): &80.,47 307 heir k : Guide de Tarentaise et Latham, F.: death, 39 353 Maurie ne, 57 436 L~uener, Johann: death, 55 57 Lejroy, Mt Canada): Lauper, H.: ocident 1927: 40 198 • The Mittellegi or E. arete of the Eiger,' .,468 41282 L ma.nn, .T.: • Bietsohhorn,' 4249,236 v. of S iss Life and Landsca.pe, 57 267 • The North faoes of Jungfra.u, Monoh, and ! Les AI ee Vaudoises, 57 577 Elger,' 41 44 i La Ju gfrau, 57 577 •The South face of the B1Umlisalp,' 47 86 *i J.•es Gl ders, 67 577 note: winter mounta,ineering, 46 217 bbit. of • H. Ellis, 55 208 Mountaineering film, 47 155 . blected on. member of Diablerets sec- rev. of Erlebnisse und Gedanken eines I tion, .A.C., 57 101 alt{ln Bergsteigers, 1880-1930, 44 161 J4ighton, .: 54 203 obit., 46 336 'terspitz: by W. arete, 47 144 port., 48 333 ilL, 47 1 (j memorial to, 48 404 ith, R .. C.: obit., 49 115 Laupersbjoerg (Greenland): &8C.,51 109 ndenfel , Mt (N.Z.): &8c.,44 142,45 170 ill., 51 108-9 tr., 39 1 7,284 Ll1uteraargra.t : ill., 41 3 2, 45 307 attempt, 40 239 ndenfel Saddlc (N.Z.): ilL,41 303 supposed 1st tr., 40243 n., 41 224 nin, P' : (see Kaufma.un, Mt) tr., 44 60, 55 354 nzs):!itz : ill., 44 60 acelden : 1941: 53266 Lautet'aarhom : N.E. fa e, solitary asc., 47 153 aooident; 1949: 57248 1st d so., 55 103 from Schrecksa.ttel, 53 387 tr. to N elbom, 56 27 ill., 40 240-1 ill., E. rete, grea.t gendarme, 41 316 Lauterbrmmen, valley of: ill., 40 269 from alfrinhorn, 41 324 Lavaredo, Tre Cime di: N.E. ace (1911 & 1933 routes), 47 155 Cima. Grande (Grosse Zinne): by N. face, Ileone, M nte: asc., 43 121 45 373, 53 29, &8 132 i 1st as. by N.N.W. face direct from by Dulfer route, 58 132 Kalt a.sser gl., 40168 accident; 1933: 45 418 neo Pargi I (Himalaya): 1st asc., 46 319 ill., 58 328-9 ilL,48 17 INDEX TO VOLUMES ~9 to 58 43

Leopold III, H.M. King: elected hon. member of Alpine Club, 47149,401 Leschaux, Aiguille de : Rescue 1st aBC.by N.W. face, 39312, 40 51 tr.,39143 on Mount Everest, ill., N.W. face, 39 313, 4051 Leviona, Colle di: 1st cr., 68 260 Lex, Pigue de la: 1st asc., 41 229 deso. by E. face, 54 21 Leyden, A. R.: • Bandar Punch reoonnais- sance,' 56 173 !.ho La (Himalaya): reached, 48 10 ill.,68 109 Lhonak Pit. (Himalaya): Ist asc., 43 187 from S., 46 130 !.hotse: ill., 68 108 Lialver (CaucaBus): aBC.,42 133, 48 364 tr_, 41 167 N.E. face, deso., 48 HI Lightning: accidents :from, 41 435 dangers of, 44 28, 36-7, 40, 338 Struok by (Finzi's paper), 49 65 Ligonoio, Pizzo: &5 16 Liklo (Himalaya): N. pk., aBC.,4943 ill., 49 48 Likoumt, Dj. (Atlas): aBc.,45114 Linard, Piz: accident: 1931: 43 412 I Lindley, A. D.: 'Mt McKinley revisited,' I' 45 85 I Lindsay, M.: a.wa.rded the Murchison grant I of R.G.S., 50 317 Ling, W. N.: , Technioalities,' 41 287 'Acoidents,' 44 24 , The years. between: days to remember,' 55 279 rev. of Die Eroberung des Kaukaaus, 45173 obit. of H. Raeburn, 39 126 G. Sang, 43 166 J. W. Brown, 50 298 W. G. Johns, 53 163 G. A. Solly, 53 374 J. M. Davidson, 57 404 P. J. H. Unna, 68 116 W. Garden, 68 120 Lion, Col du: cr., 39 44 correction, 39 155 3rd cr., date of, 68 184 n. 4th cr., 67 535 aac. of N. slope, 42 342 ill., 39 37, 45 Lion, Tete du: from N., 39 155 Lister, W. T.: obit. & port., 54 f31 Liszt, Fl'anl/;: his visit to Chamonix, 66 127 Livingstone Pk. (N.Z.): 1st aBC.,45 308 Ljubotin, Mt (Yugoslavia): asc., 39 95, 42 53 Uambrion, Torre de (Spain): aso., 46 68-9 Uiwedd: accident: 1937: 49 123 aBCS.,53 116, 54 248-9 ill., 53 121 ~ J 44 INDEX TO VOLUM,ES 39

Longstaff, T. G. : Lu~,A.: 'Twenty yeMs after,' 40 281 hlB books Switzerland in English Prose , Lessons from the Mount Everest Expedi- and oetry, 56 192 tion of 1933,' 46 102 i Mounta s of Memory, 57 104 'The Shores of Baffin Bay,' 47 49 I The Or Ie of Switzerland, 58 539 Valedictory Address, 67 281 rtfv. of G ide du Skieur dans les Alpes his book: This my Voyage, 57591 Valaisa es, Vols. I & II, 55 335 rev. of Among the Kara-Koram Glaciers a; arded Knighthood, 58 532 in 1925, 39 186 Lu ghin, Pi : 56 13 The Italian Expedition to the Himalaya, Lu uh and Hunza: 48 124 Karakoram, and Eastern Turkestan Ly n gl. (Oa llda): 39 54 (1913-1914), 44 363 r treat of, 44 273 Nanga Parbat Adventure, 47 390 Ly n, Mt (0 nada): 39 56 Mountain Prospeot, 56 89 cs., 39 7 seq. Two Mountains and a River, 57428 iI., 39 56 7 obit. of C. G. Bruce, 52 104 :Ly n Iceflel : ill., 39 52-3, 57 Aurel Stein, 54 287 Ly Oreek (Canada): ill., 48 381 A. R. Rinks, 65 216 Ly kamm: H. J. Mackinder, 56 72 ertrude 11'sasc., 41 279 A. Burr, 5791 .E. face: asc., 44 330 E. J. Garwood, 67 239 i history 40 115 B. E. M. Gurdon, 57 407 : Klucke on 1st asc., 40 116 awarded Founder's Medal ofR.G.S., 40 399 ~r.,43 14 53 139, 286,65 283 elected hon. member of G.H.M., 41 220 i by N. ( r N.W.) buttress, 47 359 Longsta.ff's Col (Garhwal): cr., 49 25 W. sum 't: 1st aso. by N.E. face, 39 314 ill., 5336 l,by N•• face, 44 126 Lookout, Mt (N. America.): ill., 45 139 i~., N.E. ace (1890 & 1927 routes), 39 314, Lorria, A.: 47 249 i & 40 115 Ll>tschen1il.cke: or., 40 43 'R. aret , 41 280-1 on ski, 49 172, 54 29 Ly , Val de: accident, 49 127 LOtschental: ill., 65 261 Ly ons, Ma k: accident to, 45 168, 306 Louis, Mt (Canada): asc., 43 265, 46 86, eath, 54439 55 70 ill., 43 264, 66 65 Low, Mt (Ca.nada): 1st asc., 43 79, 169 t ill., 43 77 M,iAIGUILL DE L': acoident: 1932: 44 345 Low, It. S.: obit. ofE. Teichelmaun, 51126 M borasu ( ormosa): asc., 46 340 obit., 88 399 M Arthur k. (N. America): ill., 57 485 Luca.nla, Mt (N. Amerioa): 1st asc., 60 95 cartney, H. J.: death, 53 169 ill., 48 81, 50 102-3 McCarthy A. H.: 'The ascent of Mount Luft, U.: •The disaster on Nanga Parbat, n,' 91 1937,' 49 216 M Coubre A. A.: obit., 53 382 Lukas, H.: M cdonaldj C. A. : his book: Der Krieg an Kii.rntens Grenze, The d¥cent of tho North face of the 1915-1917,50161 I Eiger,' 40 329 Lunn,A. : ote: J ngfraujooh, 39 340 'Alpine mystioism and cold philosophy,' leoted on. member of Alpine Olub, 61284 5796 'The Wordsworths and Switzerland,' tobit., 67 400 54 282 M~cdonald H. 1\1.: death, 47 367, 48 218 , TlWgwalder and the Matterhorn,' 55 290 M~cdonald J. Y.: 'Alpine puritanism,' 67 341 ote: t e Compass: a warning to photo- note: concerning an acknowledgement, graph ra, 51 142 61 331 M cdonal , R. J. S.: port., 55 252 Coleridge and Mont Blanc, 55 315 Mrcdonal , S.: 'Kilimanjaro in 1927,' 40 77 Switzerland revisited, 65 226 Donne (Canada): asc., 65 38, 41 his books: A History of Ski-ing, 40 206 ill., 65 3 (editor), British Ski Year Book, 1927, ace~oni~: ill., 46 295 40207 achm, CJ B.: Fa.mily Name, 44 159 note: SlM.C. guide to Isle of Skye, 57260 Come what may. An autobiography, acintyre~ N.: his book: Attack on 53 74 ~ .Everest,l 49 131 Mountain Jubilee, 54 208 Mlack,Grert (N.Z.): asc.,44 142 Switzerland a.nd the English, 54 450 MtackenziC Evan: death, 48 179, 219 r

I ------+-+---.---. ~------'-- ---II" INDEX TO VOLUMES ~9 to sal 45 ! I Mackenzie, John: obit., 46 198 Maloja drags: illl.,56 45 Mackinder, H. J.: obit., 56 72 Malta B~un, Mt (N.Z.): MC., 39 273, 342, Mcl{inley, Mt: 47 19, 58257 42 3481 44 142 accident: 1932: 44 357, 45 162 Mana P~: 1st a c., 50 72 asc., 53 388, &480 ill., 50 67, 73, 8 2nd., 4585 Manaresi A. : his book: Parole agli 8. & S.W. faoes, 47 215 Alp' isti, 46 34 from the air, 44 275, 55 351 electe hon. me bel' of Alpine Club, 45 404 ill., 44 275, 388, 45 86-91 Manaslll: reconn issance, & ill., 58 102 Maokintosh, A. J. : MandaWl P. G.: eath,51 342 rev. of Cambridge Mountaineering, 1934, Mandani1Parbat: 1st asc., 61 82 48438 Manjoho Mt (Ko ea): aso., & ill., 43 108 retirement, 47 159 Mankial sukai ( wat): aso., 53 319 death, 52 284- ill., 53 320-1 " Macleod's Ma.idens (Skye): ill., 54 345 Manneri g, G. E.I: Maoph.ee,G. G. : •The saster 0 the Tasman glacier,' 42 136 'Adula & Oberland: personal reminis· his bo k: Eig ty Yoars in New Zealand, cenoes,' 55 240, 352 &44 7 obit. of L. R. Wilberforce, &4434 e1eotedhon. me bel' of Alpine Club, 48 219 MaoPherson, W. D.: • Olimbs from the obit., 264 Friinden hut,' 51 98 Mantnca Pta.: st aso. by S. faoe, 43 362 MaoRobert, H. : Manuel Alpinis e: rev. of, 46 239 • Climbing in Scotland,' 45 259 Maps: n w, of G at Britain, 61 140 , Ski mountaineering in Scotland,' &4 127 of Swi zel'land, 1 141 rev. of A.Oamera in the Cairngorms, 56 304 Alpine of Aegi ius Tschudi, 48 146 S.M.C. guide to Southern HigWands, Maquign z, Mme obit., 51 131 57430 ports., 1 129 Undisoovered Sootland, 58 150 Maquign z, Ange port., 61 129 Arran with Camera and Sketchbook, Maquign z, Danie : memorial to, 39 341 58425 Maqui z, J. B. death, 57 96 obit. of F. S. Goggs, 53 162 Maquign z, Jean· oseph: dl'ath, 50 320 R. A. Brown, 65 306 port., 318 Miidelegabel: asc., 53 340 M/trble all (Tien Shan): asc., 57 185 Madier, Andeol: death,52 141 Marcel P (N.Z.: 43 90, 44 142 Madod gI.: ill., 47 101 ilI.,46 07 Madonna, the: ill., view from, 43 246 Marchrei sen Spit : asc., 41 300 Madonna, Cima delIa: accident, 60 149 Margna, iz delIa 55 12 Mae·Hodaka (Japan): asc., 41 12 Marindin G. E.: 41 7 Magowan, J. E.: 'Knots for climbers,' obit.,5 113 40120,340 Markasit rm (Ta ra): aso., 48 18 Mahuil Malal Pass (Andes): ill., 45 330 Markbrei 1', C.. : obit. of A. E. Field, Maiktoli Pks. (Himalaya): asc., 47 73, 57402 54 405--6 Marmolalla : ill., S. Pk., 54 405 accide t: 1938~' 50 337 MaiUart, E.: her book: 'Ti-Puss, 58 553 S. faoe Ma~ Divide CN.Z.): ill., 43 84 aso., 2 7, 45 73 MlUtre, J.: death,39 144,206 Is ., 50 152 53 344- Major, Col: 1st cr., 45 365, 51 186 vari ion on, 14 Majorca: walks in, & ill., liO 239 t,r.,5 27 Makins, G. H.: obit. & port., 46 180 ill., 271, 41 Makalu: ill., 43 3, 48 3 Marmot, he: 51145 Malaspina gl. (Alaska): area of, 47 15 Marona ( ameroo s): MO. of Mindif Pk., Maloolm, A. D. : note: from Garhwal, 56292 57101 Maligne Lake (Canada): 4246-7 Marpo (Karak rum): or., 39 222-3 climbs from, 41 340 ill.,39 14- Pk. W. of, 1st asc., 41 429 MarpOl~et (Can a): asc., 46 84, 55 67 Maligne Pks.: tr.,43 260 Marrakeo : 43 1 0 Mallet, Mt: aso., 48 138 ill.,45 8 by N.W. areta, 43 365, 45 233 Marriott, IE. H. : ill., from N.W. (1931 route), 43 366 obit. o~P. R. O'iver, 55214 Mallory, G. H. J..•.: early climbs, 54 258 W.. 8. Br01ke, 58 528

Mallory, Mt (California): 40 415 Marshall, J. A. G. : asc., 40 416 climbing career 1 ft death, 53 144- ill., 40415 attempt on Inn~minata faoe (1874),57135

i J) I 46 INDEX TO VOLUMES 39 ~ 58 : I Martel, E. A.: obit., 50 289 Ma.~terhorn . port., 50 288 c., 1st. 2nd let.t.ersre, 51 330 Martinrothspitze (Tatra): tr., 48 20 I winter, 1 228, 56 295 Marlinslooh: ill., 43 128 I solit.a y, 49126 Martuljek, the: 39 139 Luo Me net's, 57 421, 68 271 tr., 40 179 I a kitte 's, 57 569 ill., 45 389 tt., 44 20 , 54 18 Mary Vaux, Mt (Canada): 1st asc. from S., I from D nt d'Herens, 41 430, 55 220 43 260, 267, 429 I in 61 h urs, 53 266 Masherbrum: 1938 attempt, 50199 I by Zm tgrat, 54 124, 55 282 ill., 50 204-7, 51 58 I in 1927 54 389 Ma.sinodistrict: high level path. 40 186 I vel re, 406 Mason, A. E. W.: obit. & port., 57 78 fi ms re, 4 224, 255, 42 343, 50 328 Mason,K.: i oidents n, 48 134-5 , The Upper Shyok glaoiers,' 44 237 t P of, 50330 rev. of Everest: the Unfinished Adven- r 'lway ~ posed, 52 131 ture, 50 155 'ki-ing n, 52 284 P6ltks and I,amas, 52 153 b nighted on, 63 252 obit. ,of G. L. Corbett, 50 130 lLugwald r &, 55 290 F. Younghusba.nd, 54 67 eodote 1st asc., 67 108 appointed Professor of Geography at u~e of dru 8 all, 58 274 Oxford, 44 132 lLpcidents Masterman, J. s.: obit., 44 115 ! 1865: . pes in, 45 319 Matenga, Mt (N.Z.): aso., 45 168 note n, 62 138 Matheson, P. E.: obit. of A.O. Pl'ickard, oom ents on, 53 363 51304 a foo ote on, 54 82 Mathews, A. G.: obit., 57 240 Girdl tone &, 57 369 Mathews, C. E.: 54 106 1895: 371 Ma.thewB,C. M.: obit. & port., 41 395 1928: 1423 Mathews, W. : 1929: 1437 'The first reoorded orosBing of the Col 1932: 345 Durand,' 54 419 1933: 408 , The Eigerjooh,' 56 55 1934 : 421, 47 339 early travels in the Graians, 66 256 1936 : 366, 50 143 Matsukata, S. : 1938 : 0 337 n. 'Eiger and Hornli: some aooounts and 1948: 405 reoollections,' 42 252 it., Furg en & HiknJi shoulders, 42 hiBbook: Yama Nikki, 42 873 26 Matterhorn : from T eodulhorn, 42 27 E. face: 1st aso., 44 342, 45 156 S. faCe~(1930route) 43 58, (1931 route) N. faoe: reconnaissance, 40404 44 71 76, 44 74-8, 48 150 . attempt, 42 345 Furgge grat (1929 deso.), 43 61 asC., 1st, 43 358, 44 69, 47 263 I N. fao~ 43 ~58, (1931 route) 43 359, medal for oonqueror, 47 12 'I 43 36 , 44 69, 70, 53 30 2nd, 47 363 summit 5331 Srd, 47 363 Cresta i Furggen, 48 151 unreoorded, 54 439, 85 102 ,various 39 37, 42 29, 43 60-1, 54 123, other, 57258,451 : 56 131 attempts banned, 47 157 Ma~terhornJKlein: aso., 43 13-14 Penhall Couloir: aso., 43 393 Saussu e's na.me for, 43 183 solitary, 42 337 Ma. de, G.. : obIt., 46 178 S. faoe: 1st asc., 43 397, 44 75 orl.,46 80 S.E. (Furggen) arete : Ma~ dit, Col aso., 42 341, 43 58, 54 309, 445 0.,by.W. slope, 39331 1st by a woman, 56 295 from G ant gl., 40 66 de$o., 41 415, 42 22 o1., attem ted, 45 240 N.W. (Zmutt) arete : : 1st, 44 07, 45 252 Melohior Anderegg's opinion of, 63 82 esc., to eant gl.• 45 380 asc.,5399 'story, 307,494 n. deso.,53 71 Wi .,4525 MO., 40 316, 46 80, 47 248, 53 297, 54 21, I W. slo (1927 & 1932 routes) 44 310, 56 136, 68 480 . 45 25 by E. Whymper's daughter, 42 338 E. slop (Gugliermina & 1932 routes) fast, 42 344 44 31~, 46 253 I

INDEX TO VOLUMES 39 to 58 I 47

Maudit, Mt ; Medlycott,.'A.; lbit. of R. A. Fanshawe, aso., E. faoe, new route, 66 404 63 167 I S.E. arete, 50 307, 53 102, 57 458, 58 Mcijc, Lal: 132 aecidel~ts; 192 : 41 434

S.E. face, 1st, 41 403 1 193: 43 404 2nd, 42 289 i 193: 45 408 winter, 41 228 asc., 53 142 ill., 50 303, 53 107 arete~de.la, rq.asc. from S., 40 188 S.E. face (1929& 1930routes), 42 290 C. & I~'pits., at winter, 39 160 from Pte Wilson, 45 254 N..fi~e, Coul ir en Z, Ist, 45 404 Maylard, A. E. ; S. fa e, 4th, 140 obit. ofW. W. Naismith, 48 164 attemp a, 48 24 .. obit., 56274 & n' ht desc., 53 189 Mayor, R. J. G. ; stonefa Is 011, 5 418 'Som(l Alpine recollections,' 54 132 telerer~'ue prop sed, 46 212 rev. of Men, Women, and Mountains, 44 tr., 44 209, 4 408, 48 246, 52 213, 154 5416,38, 1 3,55283 obit. & port., 56 169 1st inter, 44 140 MazeriPass (CaucaSus): cr., 50 29 by . & E. retes & S. face, 45 375, Mazzotti, G. : 48 49 his books: Dernieres Victoires au Cervin, W. ar e: de cription & early ascs., 47170 392 1 A Chacun sa Montagne, 57 264 ill.,52 20-1 Mead, C. W.: death, 46 403,47195 W. a ete, 39 91,4651-2 Mead, J. P.: 'An ascent of Gunong Taban,' from N., 48 7 54 426 Doig de Dieu 48 249, 54 122-3 Meade,C. F. : Gran Pic fro Pic Central, 54 122-3 'A great guide,' 51 201 Meije, B che de I : cr., 44 206 note: Mont Blanc, 43 182 ill.,52 14 Joseph Ravanel, 44 338, 45 399 Mello,Pt .: asc.~o 174 Garhwal. 50 323 Melnik: ill., 46 2 • 302--4

his book: Approach to the Hills, 52 145 Melon, pi..; his I· ook: Montagnards, 57 rev. of Kamet Conquered,44 367 273' The Naked Mountain, 48 237 Melville,~t.-Gen. ,. : travels in the Graians, A Himalayan Wanderer, 47 178 5655 1 Men against the Clouds,48 199 Melville k. (Ki George Island): asc., After Everest. 49 132 58 74 Camp Six, 49 294 Memorafj Id (Lofo en): asc., 51 52 Hints to Travellers, 50 352 Menlungt e, Mt ( imll,laya): ill., 58 449 Les Conqulltesde ma Jeuncsse, 54 330 Mentone, te (Cor ica): asc.,40 174 La Suisseet ses Amis. 54 451 Mercanto r, Caire egre del: asc., 43 251 Karakoram Himalaya. 65 330 ill., 43 56 Alpine Tragedy, 57115 Mer de GI ce: re too 1st cr., 45 20-1 Mountainswith a Difference,58 414 acciden ,61 143 Meade-King,M. G. : Merkl,W.: death 46427 , Mount Olympus,' 65 269 obit., 4 136 rev. of Alpine Roundabout, 56 301 port.,4 382 Ski de Descente, 57 427 discove~ of bo y on Nanga Parbat., 51 obit. of R. H. Warren, 53 378 74 i Meakin,W. : facsimil of last etter, 61 75 note: Bulgarian mountains, 45 398 Merriam, t (Can da): 1st asc., 47 289 obit. & port., 52 123 Merriok, Meares,T.: obit., 41 197 his boo s: Pilla of the Sky, 53 277 port., 41 196 The reakiug! train, 57 437 Mears. R. P.: 'The olimbing rope defined,' Ram ·les in thfAlPS' 58 428 57 325 Merriman S. de V. : , Experience with climbing ropes,' 58 81 rev. of 'Alpe E chanMe,58 287 Meckly,E. P. : obit. of . E. T~mpson, 48 165 • Bibliography of privately printed moun· W. Makin, 6 123 taineering books,' 57 391 W. S. Bull, 53 65 Mediane, Pte: E. faoe, new route, 44 337, H. W R. Roo ,5476 I' 45 269 G. H. Lancast r, 57 560 Medley, J. F.: obit. of W. J. Petherick, G. D.iR. Tuck r,68 118 49 259 Mcssines,~t (Can a): 1st asc., 43 169

I i Methuen, Lord: electOO hon. member of Alpine Cluh, 39333 • obit. &port., 46 144 Metric & Decimal syatems: 47 187 Mettenbergjoch: ill., 48 332 Mettrier, H.: obit. & port., 57 224 Meyer, H.: death, 41 425 Meyer, O. E.: his book: Berg und Mensch, 51163 death, 52 130 Meynet, lllUo: his asc. of Mattel'horn, 67421, 58271 Miage, Col de: or., &4 10 Miage, .Dome de: aso., 52 14 tr. to Aig. de Trelatete. 42 322 ill.,5213 Mioe, high alpine: 57 100, 257, 58 272 Michel, H.: his book: La Jungfrau, 57 577 Michell, J. W. A.: obit., 39 299 Michieli, A. A. : his book: II Duca degU Abruzzi e Ie sue Imprese, 50 348 . Middl6Il1ore,T.: his climbing career, 53 54 Midi, Aiguille du : Paccal'd'g 'Aiguille percee,' 46 12 Mc.,50 194 night attempt, 53 231 hut on, 53 390 ill., &3 190, &4 148-9 Midi, Dents du : Haute Cime, 40 351 Mc.,46 258 to colon, 43 125 desc. of Cime de rEst by E. arete, 46 387 landslides, 41 420 tr. E.-W., 47356 cr0811erected, 53 388 Doigt de Salanfe by Col de la Dent Jaune, 43371 ill., 40 352-3, 47 367 Cime de rEst (1934 route), 46 388 Midmaradalstind (Norway): tr. attempted, 53 251 Miers, P. R. P.: obit., 54 198 Mikeno, Mt (Congo): attempt, 54 356 Milam gl. (Kumaon) :39 72, 53 43 Milang g1.: asC8.from, 52 137 Mill, H. R.: obit. of J. S. Masterman, 44 115 M~lIington, H. A.: death, 46 206 Mills. D. G. : , Mountaineering conditions in the Union of South Africa,' 49 235 Milne, Frank: obit., 46 11)1 Milner, C. D.: 'Colour photography in the hills,' 58 321 his books: Mountain Photography, 55 335 Rock for Climbing, 57 583 The Dolomites, 58 284 letter: footwear in the Dolomites, 58 405 rev. of Peak Panorama, 56 436 Snow on the Hills, 56 88 On Scottish Hills, 56 91 The Splendid Hills, 57 108 INDEX TO VOLUMES ~9 to 68 49

Monch: Montgo~'rey, J.. : accident: 1932: 44 137 , From Tauern 0 Bemina,' 48 58 aS08.,49 172, 53 296, 55247 rev. of Berninll. Flihrer, 44 376 by a ' IlOWroute,' 39 154 The IEpic of delboden, 58 150 N. faoe, 45 49, 47 148, 154, 53 299, 55 obit. 0 L. S. P well, 56 266 103 Got ried Sc opf, 57 93 Nollen route, 62 125, 53 103,5720 H .. Veaze ,68 264 winter, 41 228, 63 135 Montserr t: 43 3 t; attempt,48172 Moonrak r Pk. ( .Z.): 43 89-90 observatory on, 40 359 Moore, . W. : 102 tr. from Jungfraujoch, 46 161 his bo Ie: Tho Ips in 1864, 51 161 ill., 40 360 asc. of Dom, 65 251 .. N. face, 45 49, (Nollen & 1921 routes) port., 5252 45 51, (Nollen, 1921 & 1934 routes) Moore C I: 1st c· ., 45 365 47148 named 39309, 071 N.E. ar~te, 45 58 Moore Pi : 1st c., 42 105 from Kl. Silberhol'n, 53 104 1st aso by S.E. ar~te, 45 365 Nollen ridge, 57 17 ill.,41 6 Monch (Tatra.): aso., 48 22 Moore, .: 'The ascent of Miuya Konka,' Moniecm, La: asc., 40 173 452 Monier·Williams, M. F.: death, 40 398, 410 • Moun Sanfor : an Alaskan ski olimb,' Monk's Cowl (Drakensberg): accident: 512 2 1938: SO 151 Moorhou e Range (N.Z.): ill., 48 284 Monod·Herzen, E. : Mooser, aspar: ccident & recovery, 65 316 'The disOister on the Matterhorn of Morohne , Gross Klein: ill., 48 64-5 I August, 1934,' 47 339 Morcles, rande ent de: aso., 43 136 I I • Disquieting aapects of modem moun· MOrdeY,~. M.: bit., 50 292 i taineering,48 134 port., 296 I Monro, O. G. ': death, 40 177, 218 Morgenh m: I Monsoon, the: 46 407 aooide t: 1935: 47 377 ( Montagnier, H. F.: 41102 E. artlt : asc., 7 147 I • Thomas Blaikie and Michel·Gabriel deac., 47 91 Paccard,' 45 I N. faoel: ases., 7 147, 53 387 his book: (with E. Gaillard) Lettrea de S. face l routes 0 ,47 90 H. B. de Saussure a sa Femme, 50 ill., 4~75-6 168 Morin. J.: obit., 309 disolaimer,41 224 Morin, M : obit. & port., 45 349 her b ks: En ordees, 49 133 memorial to, 60 320, 51 329 L'AI Enob tee, 68 287 . Montague, C. E.: 53 110 Morland~:;.' C.: 0 it., 52 277 obit., 40 869 port., O"~ 269 Montanaia, Oampanile di Val: asc., 46 313 Morocoo see Speo al List) Montandayne, Becea di: winter asc., 49 Morris, C J.: 127 his boo : Li . g with .Lepchas, 60 342 Montandon, P. : rev. of lank 0 the Map, 50 345 , Mutual responsibilities of amateurs and awarde Muroh' on Grant of RoG.S., 40 guides,' 43 323 399 • Oomplaints and confessions of all old Morrish, . L. : mountaineer,' 49 58 obit. 0 R. S. M rrish, 57 86 note: Johaun Grill II, 41 427 H. J Gait, 5 238 Ortler group, 46 410 . Morrish, . S. : rev. of Thron der Gotter, 60 163 obit. 0 E. Foa, 5 84 obit. of J. Gallet, 46 192 J. W F. For , 65 303 A. Heim, 49 259 J. C. Gait, 65 210 H. Dubi, 53 255 obit.,6 86 obit., 56 390 Morrison· 'oott, T. S. C.: note: high alpine ports., 39 155, 68 390 mice, 272 Montasoh: asc., 44 79 Morse, G H.: • harm~ a.nd Grepon,' 39 W. faoe, 1st asc., 44 82 249 . ill., 44 78-9 obit. o~AIfred S mond, 40 162 Montenvere : obit. & Iports., 4 334 the Englishman's stone (see Pierre des Va1edic~ory add ,41 I Anglais) Morehead~F.: po ., 56 252 ill., group at, 1893, 43 336 Moreheadl H. T.: obit. & port., 43 348 50

Mortel, Piz: ski asc., 43 285 Mqmm,A •. : Morteratsch g1.: accident: 1933: 45 418 is bool: The Alpine Club Rcgister, Morteratsch, Piz: proposed railway, 42 346 ; 40 426 51 136 tr. to pjz Prievlus, 43 388 bit. & P rt., 40 154 to pjz Bernina, 44 330 ote re, 0399 Mortimer, A.: death, 39 328, 40 217 M mmery, . F.: 64 114 Mosele, Grosser: aso., 48 68 fis book. Mes Escalades dans lea Alpes ill., 48 64-5 et Ie C ucase, 49 130 Moser, E. B.: obit. & port., 49 263 "ttempt n Aiguille du Geant, 48 180 Moskeneso (Lofoten): asc.,51 51 is climb g notes & photos, 54 77 Mosna, E.: his book: Visioni Alpine (third lection A.C., 54205 series), 46 236 Whym r, 57 339 Mothersill, H. J. : M mmery, Aiguille: asc., 45 270 obit. of A. M. Bartleet, 50 126 by S•. face, 58 270 obit., 49 261 ame, 44 339, 46 399 port., 49 249 cddent, 56 406 Mottet, A.: death, 41 425, 437 11.,452 1 Moulam,A. J. J. : his book: The Carneddau, }[ nday, . A. D. : 68 546 Myster Mountain,' 40 99 Mounsey, W. A.: obit .• 57 406 I Myste Mountain (Mount Waddington) Mountain Prophets: 54 97 I 13,260 ft.,' 41 160 Mountain Rescue: 51 335, 55 20, 189 f Source fNorth Thompson River,' 41433 Mountain siokness & high altitude moun- ~is book ,The Unlmown Mountain, 66412 taineering, 51 271 Mjmdar, t (Canada): 1st asc., 47291 Mountain walls, high: 47 15 n., 57 187, 68 Mjlongla, : tr., 43 15 256 M~rChiSOn,:M:t(N.Z.): asc.,43 103 Mountain warfare: 54 413 11£ retto gl : accident: 1706: 55 408 training for, 54 442, 55 32, 74, 233, 345, 11£ ay, A. G.: 'Some journeys through the 395, 66 108, 215, 67 66 untai s ofIceland,' 40 85 Mountaineer, the: & the mountain film, M nay, D G.: death, 42 119, 163 43 330 M ay,G W.: Mountaineering: and Government respon- ~i Egypti n mountains,' 42 226 . sibility in N.Z., 43 190 i'The wr ng \Vayup Gebel Gharib,' 49 228 books: bibliography of privately printed, i' In and ut of Saas,' 52 63 57391 I' The to ot' Egypt,' 56 33 disquieting aspects of modern, 48 134 note: L quinjoch, 46 412 Introduction to, 68 12, 207 Hohst ck, 47 371 problems of winter, 55 153 on' an y day for a lady,' 68 124- poetry and humour of, 52 22 IIrev. of a.Peninsula du Smai, 68 546 Relativity in, 49 153 iobit. of . Cairney, 51 315 Mountaineers: as oultural aggressors, 58 136 iawarded Founder's Medal ofR.G.S., 48 364 hereditary, 39 155, 339, 40 400, 42 344, M~1rray, . H.: . 43 383, 44 343, 45 165,46408, 48 183, !' Scottis Garhwal and Kumaon expedi. 53 73 'tion,' 49 lady (see Lady climbers) 'The r onnaissance of Mount Everest, Mountet, 001 de: cr., 68 479 1951,' 68 433 Muckenbrunn, H. : hie bool s: Mountaineel'ing in Scotland, hill book (with F. Hallberg): The Com- 56 98 plete Book of Ski·jug, 49 139 i S.M.C Guide-Rock climbs, Glencoe Miihlsturzhorn, Gross: S. edge, lBt winter I and Ardgour, 57 275 asc" 48 74 i Undis overed Scotland, 68 150 Muir, John: i The cottish Himalayan Expedition, his unpublished journals-' John of the Mountains,' 50 339 1 reST~~.fl.c.Guide to the Island of Skye, Muir, Mt (Califonua): ill., view from, 40 414 usa, Je 1 (Sinai): & ill., 40 338-9 Muirhead, L. R.: his book (editor): Blue _1. asc., 68 09 Guide to Switzerland, 57 113 usallah, t (Bulgaria): 46 161 Mukut Parbat (Himala)'a): 1st asc., 58 •ill., 46 #3 270 ~~seum, pine, of the D.A.V.: 51 91 Mulhac;en (Spain): asc., 39287 ;Ii!., 51 ill., 40 41 ustang ta (Nepal): cr., 58 106 MulkUa: aSc., 52 136 uztagh ta (Pamirs): asc., 56 317 Miil1er,A. P.: obit. & port., 61 318 ~ uztagh ower: ill., 43 7

I I - --- ,_ • ...------1 I INDEX TO VOLUMES ~9to 58 i 51

I Muztagh Pass: 50th anniv. of 1st cr., 49 277 Nansen, f.: obit I & port., 42 297 Myers, C. S.: obit. & port., 58 73 NantiU!' Col d~: 39 249 & u. 1I1ystery,Mount (see Waddington, Mt) Nathorst Pk. (Gr enland): 42 243, 249 asc., 396, 46 43-4 ill.,46 9 NADELGRAT:41 317 National,fParks: t,tanding committee, 54 93, tr., 42 107,53 296 551111 ' attempted, 41 325 Nau, N.': his ook: Der Krieg in der in 1936,49128 Wisch erggrup " 60 161 ilL, 55 8-9 Naus, K.: port., 194 Nadelhorn: by N. face, 40 395 Navirian tau (Co. asus): 1st asc., 42 105 tr., 47250 Nazaroff, P. S. : 's book: Hunted through ill., 41 324-5 Centra Asia, 373 Nadelhorn (Peru): asc., 46 37 Neame, . H.: 0 it., 40 368 Na.ess, A.: 'The Norwegian expedition to port., 0365 Tirich Mir,' 58 6 Neame, . Armst ng: Nahr Inrahim: ill., 57 72 his b : Amo g the Meadows and Alpine Naismith, W. W.: obit., 48 164 FIo era of N rthern Italy, 49 300 port., 48 160 Needha , Abbe J. T.: travels in the Nameless Pk. (Caucasus): asc., 42 347 Graia , 68 52, 68 273 Nanda Devi I (& Nanda Devi Basin): Nela P (Hima ya.): cr., 46 318 Longstaff, 1927,40281 Neny Fj rd: ill., 57 202-3 Shipton & Tilman, 1934, 47 58 Nepal H malaya expedition to, 1949, 57 1st asc., 48 311, 359, 49 13 305 cost of expedition, 50 144 Nepal, H H. the harajah of: accepts hon. Shipton, 1936, 49 27 memb rsmp of pine Club, 48179 E. pk .• 1st asc., &331 Nepal P : asc. ofS.W. summit, 60 111-2, French expedition, 1951,58269 &31 ill., from N.E., 39 78 ill., 49 48-9 from S., 47 65 Nepal: 1., unna ed pk., 67 448 from W., 48 312 Nesthor : from E., 49 16-17 from t e S., 42 lOS, 43 55 from Traill's Pass, 40 35 N. fa ,1st a.sc, 46 372 S. face, 49 17 N. ar~e, 43 48 from Dunagiri, 52 35 1st c., 57 5 5 E. Pk., N. face, 47 67 S.E. a 'te, aso. 46 390 S. ridge, &336-7 deso., 43 49 varioua,47 61-75, 49 16-17, 53 38-44 ill., 43~56 Nanda Ghunti: attempt, 55 382 S.£oe,4219 ase., &8188 N. ce (193 route), 46 373 ill., 40 287, 49 32-3, 54 169, 55 376-7 E. £ oe (193 route), 46 392 Nandakna: 55 202 Nettleto , C. W : obit. of W. H. Gover, Nanda Kot: 1st aso., 50 4 &3 37 ill., 49 16-17, &345 Nevada, Sierra ( llforllia): 41 328, 46 88 Nanga Parbat: Nevada, Sierra ( pain): 39 286' German expeditions to : Nevado ontra.m rbas (Pern): asc., 51 327 1932: 44 138, 192 New E 'tio: no longer separately 1934: 46 210, 47 92 class' ed, 46 3 4, accident, 46 423, 47 7 New M~tagh Po. s: 1st cr., 52 203 correction re, 48 182 New Z land (se also Special List): correspondence re,.46 451 moun ain nom clature in, 43 89 1937: 49210 Alpin Journal Jubilee number, 53 180 accident, 49 282 sum' of t·war ascs., 46 126 correspondence re, 49 308 Feder tion of ubs in, 55 221 1938: 5170 Newton, H. E. : 1939: 51 139, 327 'A be inner in he bush.' 64 268 height, 46 413 accident: 1950: 58 130 Ad mello. sanella, 43 187 ill., 44 194-8, 47 96-7, 138-9, 49 211, 51 rev. f N.Z. Alpine Journal Jubilee. 71-4 n mber, 5 180 . from Pirirot. 44 193 Me ories of Mountains and Men, 56 87 1934 route, 46 422 Eig ty Year in New Zealand, 54447 Nangpa. La: 58 449 obit.

I i i I ------r-t-----.-.---i 52 INDEX TO VOLUMES 39 058

Newton, H. E. : Ndyce, C.. F. : obit. of Mark Lysons, 54 439 ~ev. of ountains benea.th the Horizon, R. S. I.ow, 58 399 5755 NgaUl11hoe(N.Z.): ill., 49 96 ,I 'rhe Sottish Himala.yan Expedition, Ngga Poeloe (Carstenz): 1st asc., 49 186 I 68 50 Nioholson, L. D.: death, 43 381, 44 173 NokhnetzY~'a.ucasus): ill., 50 20 Nicol, H.: 'Deep Gash Gully, Sgurr N~do, Col ( olomites): aso., &5162 A'mhadaidh. Skye,' 57 542 Nulgssuaq enlnsula.: ill., panoro,ma8 from, Niesner, H.: 'A Bavarian (1928) expedition 49296 to the Caucasus,' 41 166 N1p La: e ploration of, & ill., 58 441 Nightingale, M. R. W.: obit. ofC. G. Bruoe, N ri: port ,5246 52101 N hilt La Ko,rakorum): history, 52 198-9 Niltka, Mt (Formosa): 42 129 r., 52 19 ,200, 56 61 asc., 46 329, 339, 343 arly cr., 66 64 Nilgiri Parbat: 1st aso., 50 65 '1.,5664 ill., .0 66-7 N onno Ra. ge (Himalaya): 0,80.in. 45 129 Nilkanta: attempt., 58 533 xplorati n of, 48 3 reoohna.issanoe, 50 77 " I., 46 12 ,48 4 ill., $0 67 Nima VI: port., 52 46 Niven, A. C.: 'The Alpine regions of Yugoslavia,' 58 379 Nobande Sobande g1.: ill., 50 50 OB RAM1\{ GAU: ill.; near, 52 4 Noel, J. B. L.: his book: Through Tibet to ObprsuIztal: avo,lanohe days in, 47 322 Everest, 39 366 .~ooident, 7324 Noelting, F. A. M.: obit. of Osoar Super. Ob ou: o,so, 54 42 saxo, 5S 99 O' rien, M. E. (Miss) : Nol, Ie Gros: ill., 47 202 , In the ont Bla.no massif and the Ober· Nordsaulo (Lapland): 57 481 land,' 231,44 52 ill., 57 482 00 rida, L ke (Albania): 4256 North,.F. J.: 00 s, the: (see Fiesoherhom, Klein) , SirHenry de 10.Beohe's attempt on Mont 0' onnor, .: -obit. of F. Younghusbo,lld, Blanc, 1819,' 57493 65 North Col (Kangchenjunga.): a.ttempt, 50 Od 11,N. E : 113,53203 , Within ld without the A1:otic Circle,' North Thompson River (Canada): souroe, 4627 41433 , The sup osed Tibetan or Nepa.lese llame Norton, E.: death, 45 167 o{]~lou t Everest,' 47 127 Norton, E. F.: 'Mount Everest: the last , pects f mountaineering in the high lap,' 57 285 Arctic,' 54 182 rev. of Everest, 1933, 46 432 'The firs o,sceut of Mount Vanoouver,' Mount Everest, 1938, 56 297 57484 obw.ofChetin,42314 ote: th Mounto,in Olub of South Africa, H. T. Morehead, 43 350 53390 Lobsang, 44 119 n post- onsoon oonditions in the Eastern W. Pa.stenr, 54 288 Himala 0,,53 207,392 Norton, R. F.: obit. & port., 41 304 n mount' resoue, 65 189 Norwegian Hima.la.yan Expedition, members l' v. of A Climber's Guide to the Rooky of: Mou to,ins qf Co,llada, 43 205 their book: Tirioh Mir Til Topps, 58 151 Upon t at Mountain, 54 321 Noyce, C. W. F. : it. of E A. M. Wedderburn, 5590 'A first visit to Chamonix,' 52 225 arded Livingstone Gold Medal of , The middle land,' 53 294 Soottis Geographical Society, &4456 'Towards Trisul,' &4166 Od ray, Mt Canada): aso., 46 83 , Simsa.ga and the Monsoon,' 54 403 Oe stein, G ss: ill., 44 252 'An airorew mountain oentre in Kashmir,' Oel rubells 'tze, Hilltere: 0.80.,4800 55 74 Oe ohinenh rn: 'An Austrian impression,' 56 221 f om Frii en hut, 51 100 'A retrea.t to the Graians,' 57 293 ~Y".aret ,1st o,so.,45 152 note: an expedition to Sikkim, 55 323 vY. arete, st o,sc.,61 103 his books: Mountains and Men, 66194 ~t.to Mol' enhorn,51102 Scholar Mountaineers, 57 581 1l~.,51 10 A Climber's Guide to Sonamarg,' 55 Oesphinenjo h: from Friinden hut, & ill., 225 S.loo INDEX TO VOLUMES $9 to 68 53 Oetztal: accident, 47 152 climbs in, 48 59 ill., group, 40 297 Ofenhorn, the: 40 181 Ogi, Fritz: aocident, 43 408 , (Atlas): aBC.,48 110 Ogi, Fritz (sen.): death, 66404 nada): 1st aBO.,44 334, Ogi, Oskar: death, 43 408 Ok (Iceland): aso. on ski, 48 263 Oku-Hodaka (Japan): aBC.,41 13.• Olan, L': Alpine Club Registers, aBc.,63 142 1st by S.E. arete, 41 430 1st by N.W. faoe, 46 384 attempt, 54 41 ill., N.W. face (1934 route), 48 385 Oldham, J. B.: obit. of E. B. Moser, 49 263 Oliver, E. G.: • Some famous passes,' 39 35 accident, 39 337 obit. & port., 51 306 Oliver, P. R. : 5185 , Trisu!, 1933,' 48 142 obit., 65 212 port., 65 211 Oilier, Cesar: death, 42 343 memorial to, 43 388 Olperer: by S.E. arete, 48 71 ill., 48 64-5 OIstind: MO., 51 51 Olympic (Mountaineering) medal: 48 373 Olympus, Mt: sa 203 asc., 39 86, 65 269 from W. & S., 41 377 list of, 40 102, 402 bibliography, 39 96, 40 101 international expedition, 40 104 ill., 39 88-95, 40 106-7,55268-9 Ondezana.: winter asC..•49 127 & n. Ontake (Japan): aso., 68 234 ill., sa 242-3 Oppenheim, E. C.: obit., 53 62 Orbe, valley of the: 53 367 Oriellos (Spain): 44 234 Orientalismo & Oocidentalismo: 55 369 Oriente, Pta.: aBC.,40 174 Orny, Aiguille d': by a new route, 43 119 Oro group, Mte (Corsioa): 40 172 Ort1er: aBC.,63 347 N.E. (Marlt) arete, aso., 42 7 aocident, 43 384 rance, II, Dauphine, 61 N.N.E. guUy, 1st asc., 43 384 RothbOckgrat, 1st asc:, 42 7 n. Alpine Club, tr. by Hintere Wa.ndl & Stiokle Plaiss, 63 347 Hinterergrat, 46 80, 63 352 Hoohjochgrat, 53 352 Marltgrat, 53 352 eath, 43 381, 44 173 ill.,46 76 Ortler group: climbing conditions in, 50 328 guides' malpractioes in, 43 383 note, 48 410 Ortler range: & the new frontiers, 40 301 Orubashi Pass (Caucasus); ill., 50 21 INDEX TO VOLU~ES 39 tJ 58

Pallin, H. N. : PatMonia :~ts. & gls. in, 45 62 'Mountains and glaciers in West Green- a~c. of higist pk. of St. Lawrence massif, Ia.nd,' 49190 53 390 his book: Andreegatan, 47 179 ill., 45 64- 7 Pallis Col: ill., pks. to the N. of,46 311 pa~hel1' C.. : Pallis, M.: his book: Peaks and Lamas, 0 it. of J.. Vigdal, 42 100 52 158 0 it., 54 1 I Palmer, G. E. H. : morial 0, 56 403 , Some climbs in the Roclty Mountains and Pat~hor Pk. (Pamirs): asc., 57 186 the SeThirks,'64 152 Pat cherkofe~: 1st winter asc., 53 343 Palmer, H.: Pat monoJ. D.: death, 52 283 his book (with J. M. Thorington): A Pau unri (Si kim): asc., 65 323 Climber's Guide to the Rooky Moun- Pau e Bruna d, Pte: 44 330 tab~s of Canada, 43 205 Pau us Pk. ( reenla.nd): 58 199 Palmerston, Lord: visits to Switzerland, Pau garten, H.: 'An attempt ou Mount 64 83 C 'Ilon,' 135 Palii, Piz : Pav , Le: t. to Pic Gaspard, 39 131 tr. to Piz Bernina, 39 157 .. , 48 248 N. face, asc., 42 333, 57 63 Pay r Pk. ( reenland): 42242 history of, 43 386 Pay t, Aiph nse: obit., 44 298 N.W. face, asc., 53 387 rt., 44 2 7 E. Pk., asc., 48 62, 43 287 Pay t, Fred ric: death, 39 153 asc. on ski, 61 148 Pay t, Leon :- death, 50 318 ill., N. face, (1930 route) 42 334, (various Pay t, Mich : death, 54 316 routes) 43 386 Pay t, Paul from Pcrs gl., 67 64 h" book: Au Royaume du Mont-Blanc, Pamirs: expedition, 1928, 41 156 57 590 ill., gls. in, 41 273 Pay ter, T. C.: 'Mountains under deep Panjtarni Pk. (Himalaya): accident, 44 350, sow,' 56 53 45 162 Paz eltal: a alanche in, 39 171 Panch Chuli: reconnaissance, 68 63 Pea ocke, T. A. H. : attempt, 68 270 ' orne gill eless climbs,' 52 209 ill., 68 64-5 ' .raining in the Canadian Rockies,' 55 Paradis, Grand: 32 asc., 57 296 ' ix mon hs in the Abruzzi Apennines,' by N.W. face, 43 170,388 1i6108 'record,' 44 139 d wea er at Chamonix,' 57 164 winter, 49 127 n te: ere sse rewue, 51 335 tr.,54 120 the Alpi e Club in Italy, 65 224 ill., N.W. face (1930 route), 43 171 Mont M udit by the Frontier ridge, 58 from Monei chalets, 54 122 132 Paradise, Mt (Canada): asc., 55 69 n te: the mishap on Lliwedd, 49 123 Paradisino, Pizzo: ill., 43 377 hi book: Mountaineering, 53 178 Paragon, Mt (Canada): attempts, 5641-2 , . of Ha dbook of American Mountain- ill., 45 343 leering 54 206 Paravicini, C. R.: obit. & port., 56 265 A Progr 8 in Mountaineering, 58 137 Parker, J. A.: death, 56 78 0 it. of P. M. Aitchison, 56 76 Parker, J. K.: obit. of J. M. Clayton, 50 Pea r, G. F : 'High Pasture,' li4 246 294 '. he KIe" e Scheidegg Meet,' 57 15 obit., 54 191 re . of Sw'tzerland in English Prose and Pars, W. (artist): 56 43 Poetry,' 56 192 pictures by, 64 205 Pea ce, S. L.: obit. & port., 56 275 Parseierspitze: asc., 53 351 Pe sall, W.. : his book: Mountains and Pascoe, J. : M orla.nds 57586 his books: Unclimbed New Zealand, 51 Pea tie, R. : 155,57578,58 126 hi books: Mountain Geogra.phy,49 288 The Mountains, the Bush, and the Sea, The Sie ra Nevada: range of Light, 68138 5712 Pasteur, C. H.: 58 126 Pee ,Annie .: obit. of Fram,loisSimond, 51 316 s pposed o. of Huasca.ran, 45 38 T. L. Kesteven, 52 116 d ath,47 70 S. B. Peech, 56 168 Pee , E. H. : C. A. Macdol1aId,57 402 '.Ai further expedition to the Ala Dag, Pasteur,W.: obit. & port., 54 288 1944,' 5 45

I II, I INDEX TO VOLUMEJ 39 to 1 55 Peck, E. H. : Peto, :6. H. K. f" death, 43 409 'Old friends and new huts, May-June, obit.l& port., 3352 1947,' 66 128 Petrarcfh: jour eys in Switzerland, 55 406 Peech, S. B.: obit. & port., 56 168 Petrus:!,'..'J.: de th, W. M. Baker's ref. to, Peigne, Aiguilledu : 57 5:W aile., 39 321, 44 121, 54 147,66 358 Peuter y, Aigu' e Blanche de : by N. arete, &8518 acci nt: 18 2: W. M. Baker's diary on, ill., 64 148-9 57 529 Peilspitze: aso., 41 301 ascs. : Pelago, Mt: 43 251 fr Bren side, 39 151 PeIerins, Alguilledes: fr m Fresn y side, 39 320,40 62, 44 212 asc., 53 102 by N. face, 46 199 by N.W. face, 48 346 .S.Ki g'ssupposedattempt,46199 accident, 54 316 by S.E. & .W. aretes, 44 320 Pelvoux, Mt : S.E. re.te: tr.; 68 226 Is winter sc., 41 228 asc., 39 247 ro te to, fr m Fresnay gl., 44 320 1st by E. arete, 44 304 I al'iation 45 249 1st by N.W. (hfomie)arete, 39130 S.W.!face: v riation on, 48 362 Pte Puiseux: 1st asc. from gl. Noir tr., ~ 241 (N. arete), 48 360 Is withou a bivouac, 40 388 ill., from gl. Blanc, 39 246 Grell, Genda , e, height of, 42 128 from gl. Nair, 68 226 box oUIldon S. arete, 40 401 from Pic des Agneaux, 68 226 ill., 1 60,57129 N.W. face, 39 248 N. face (19 3 route), 48 199 various, 41 170,44 208, 48 248 Peute y, Aigui e Noire de: Pen Helyg: ill., 53 123 N. a ete atte pt, 40 181 Pena Alba: asc., &8134 N.E face: c., 40 403, 41200 Pennant, T.: his book: Tour on the S. a te: at mpt, 39 149 Continent, 56 414 Is asc., 4 341, 43 356 Penny, L. P.: obit., 55 303 orrectio re, 44 140 Penrose, Mt (Canada): asc., 57 510, 512 2 d asc., 404 ill., 57 516--17 as ., &851 Pentedhaktilos (Cyprus): 57192, 545 at~ained fr m W., 48 167,52 139 ill.,57192-4 S.E.iface, Is asc.,44 307 Percee, Aiguille: 49 7 W. f~ce: as .,68132 Pere Eterne1: 1st asc., 40 183 2~d ase. b 'voie directe Ratti,' 67 450 Periades, les: by E. ridge, 53 253 win ' l' asc., st, 41 228 monograph on, 39 149 soli ry asc., 65 241 Perouse, La (N.Z.): 39273 ill., . face ( 928 route), 41 202 asc.,48 188, 284 S.. face, 357, (1932route) 45 405 Perren, Edmond: death, 47 249 . face & .E. arete, 48 167 Perren, Hermann: death,42 130 m Col d Fresnay, 52 18 Perren, Peter: port., 65 252 . face, 5 129,452--3 Perret, R.: his book: Les Panora.mas du Peute y arete ill., 40 45, 50 . Mont Blanc, 41 244 Peut':tv, Col d : ' Perrin, F.: death, 40 180 loss rf heigh, 43 393 Perroc, Dent: tr., 53 307 d~esc.to Fres ay gl., 39 320, 40 65, 44 320 Perrous de Valloreine, les: 1st sc. from Brenva gl., 65 103 Grand: accident: 1931: 43 407 ill., 0 65, 67 131 No.1: by W. face, 39338 Peute y, Mo t Rouge de: by W. fa.ce Aig. de l'Ifa1a: by N. face, 41 412 dire t,52 13 1st tr. in 1 day, 43 895 Pfa , H.: d th, 41 424 ill., 39 339, 49 172 Pfeffe~,M. : Persia (see also Special List): 'Th disas l' on Nanga Parbat, 1937,' highest mountnins in, 45 337 n., 47 303 n. 210 mountain nomenclature in, 47 301 his anga arbat diary quoted, 49 220, Petermann Pk. (Greenland): 42 241 2 2, 224 asc., 42248 Phara h Pk. ( anada.): 1st asc., 40 383 Peters, R.: • Grandes Jorasses, North face: Philip opolis: ill., 46 300 the first ascent,' 48 73 Philip on, P.. L.: Petherick, W. J.: obit., 49 259 'M.olmories f the Alps and the Congo,' Petigax, Henri: port., 50 230 5'T 356 Petigax, Joseph: memorialto, 39152,40398 obit, of H. Seyer, 53 377 ------r--t-'--I 56 INDEX TO VOLUMiES 39

Phillip, C. B.: obit. & port., 45 146 Pi~oer Pk. ( affin J,and): aso., 47 57 Phillips, D.: deatb, 50 324 Pirr n mts ( ulga,ria): 45 398 Photography: exposures at high altitudes, ill, 46 302 44 98 Pito s, ice: 1st employment in the Alps, colour, 49 278, 57 118, 58 321 281 wide angle stereoscopic, 43 329 Pitz al: ill., 26 telephotography with infra-red & colour film, 50 224 PiUS~I~~ ~~: no, "', early Alpine, 47 246 :~'I' Phoutrides, A. E. : his book (with Farquhar, F. P.): Mount Plo.n. Aiguill du: Olympus, 41 242 E. arete: asc., 48 168, 50 305, 55 164, Piaz, Tita: Strutt's appreciation, 53 348 57 555 68 270 . Piazzi, Cima di: 1st winter asc., 47 151 nd aso., 39 318,.40 58 Pickelsitz, the: 44 135 st aso. ( yan's), 40 408 Piokford, Miss M.: death, 46 215 etails 0 routes, 50 332 Pierre, B.: ill.,~ 39 319,48 176-7, 55 169-71 • The North·east faoe of the Piz Badile and . faoe, 40 58, (routes) 60 305, 65 the West faoe of the AiguilleNoire de 168 Peuterey,' 57445 Plan Grand endarme d'envers du: aso., bis book: Esoalades au Hoggar, 58 541 44 330 Pierre dllSAnglMs,la: 47251,48 140 Plan na, Vell : ill., 52 92-3 Pierre Pointue, Chamonix & : ·43 393 Plan pitze: .. , 44 253' Pievidur, Forcella del: 1st cr., 58 525 Plat , TlltllS ill., 57 164 Pigeon Tower (Canada): 1st asc., 43 170 Plat er, F •. : his book: Jesuits go East, Pi¥ott, A. S. : 58282 First aid oommittee of Mountaineering Plat ,Sebast n: dea.th, 53 270 dubs,' 65 28 Pliet , S. : II'. obit. of B. Dutton Walker, 55 94 his book: om Mont Blano zum Wilden i I Pigou, A. C.: • Night life on high hills, Mser,4 138 53246 Pion r, Fro.nz: 41426 obit. of J. H. Clapham, 65 419 POOo Pk. (Si kim): 1st aso., 49 47 Pilatte, Tete de 10.: ill., 44 209 Poet y: 41 2 8, 46 207, 221, 50 278, 51 118. Pilditoh, P. H.: 14. , 147, 3 ,5229, 31, 100, 63369, 64 5, note: A. E. Barker, 62 132 34, 89,56 1 2-4,437,68 168,261, 57 146, obit. of H. E. B. Harrison, 53 259 57 A. E. Clo.rke, 67 87 Poe , Englis : in the Alps, 61 326 obit., 57 413 Poil • Mt des: (see Habel Mt) Pilkington, C.: port., 53 142 Pole, M.: obi ., 52 275 Pilkington, C. D. & E. F.: obit. of H. G. Po . ger, Ad : ports, 39 150, 64 297 Willink, 50 283 Po . ger, Alo' : Pilkington, L.: • Early Memories,' 63 141 1 th aso. 0 Mo.tterhorn, 50 294, &7536 his book: The Hills of Peaoe, 43 204 Fii :rerbuoh 57 524 obit., 53 256 Polli ger, Aloi II: obit., 66 307 ports., 53 142, 258 Pil1a.rRock: 63 246, 64 9 Pollipo~"5639ger, Jos f: Piller, Andreas: death, 47 374 erbuoh preseU..tOd to A.C., 56 426 Pilley, D. E.: St Ws app oiation, 53 11 'The North ridge of the Dent Blanohe,' obi ., 64 29 ,66 309 43 276 po~., 39 I ,64 296-7 her book: Climbing Days, 47 380 PolIo k, F.: Pindari ioe·fall: ill., 40 34" 36 obi. of W. eaf,39 123 Pinggera, Alois: death, 46 208 rev of Walt r Leaf, 1852-1927,44375 appreciation of, 53 351 70~Years' embership of Alpine Club, Pinggera, Franz: 63 352 . U7 . Pinggera, Hans Sepp: 53 352 obi .,49108 Pinnacle (Canada): aso., 46 82, 56 67 po .,4911 ill, 46 80 Poll : Pinzo Nurbu: discovery of his body on acc' ent: 1 49: 67 245 Nanga Parbat, 51 73 by • faoe, 3 14 Pioda, Pta: from the N., 48 362 tr., p1 133 Pioneer Pass (N.Z.): 39 272 Pollu~ (N.Z.): 1st aso., 41 235 or., 44 142, 49 98 Pomo.$.agnojl: by S. face, 49 273 ill., 45 307 111.,S. faoe ( 937 route), 49 273 I I il I I INDEX TO VOLUMES!39 toSSI 57

Ponca, Vclika: by N. face, 45 390 Praray~l: destr ction of Rifugio d'Aosta, ill., 45 391 68 27$ Ponsonniere, Colde Ia.: accident, 51 143 Prati, ~fno: de th, 39 340 Pontic ra.nge: ill., 46 284 Predigs uhl: ac ident: 1932: 43 356 n., Pontresina: earth tremors at, 39 338 44 1 Poole, J.: 'Orthodoxy and Heterodoxy,' PresMle a: asc. 46 323 47 261 ill., 4 326 obit. of W. J. Williams, 57 558 Preside t, Mt (C nada): asc., 46 85, 55 67 R. C. C. Carr, 58401·. by • ridge, 54 400 Popena, Piz: by Tre Croci ridge, 63 29 ill., 401 Popocatepetl (Mexico): asc., 45 95 Preside t Pass: ill., 54400 mass asc., 57258 PreU, C ma dei: by S.E. arete, 46 313 ill., 45 92..-4 ill., 314, 31 Porter, H. E. L.: l'rickar , A. 0.·: 57100 'Mount Tasman and its satellites,' 39 rev. f Reliqu' eA. D. Godley, 39 178 265 obit. f J. T. ramston,43 159 , The Southern Alps revisited,' 41 303 obit. port., 1 304

I Glacier Peak and Mount Aspiring, N.Z.', Priestle ,R. E. 5795 43 81 l'riestm n, H.: , Douglas Peak, N.Z:, 45 305 hono red by orske Tnristforening, 41 225 , Hohe Tatra,' 47 310 obit. port., 4114 'Farewell to Dampier,' 48 280 Prince dward, t (Canada): 1st &So.,42 72 note: the late Freda du Faur, 48 363 ill.,4 71 rev. ofThe Canterbury Mountaineer, No.1, Prince enry, t (Canada): 1st asc., 42 71 44 378 ill., 4 72 Where the Clouds can go, 47 382 Prisoin' r, Mt: cident,40 180 Plant Hunting in Europe, 67 579 Pritcha ,H.!: obit. of E. S. Tattersall, The Mountain.s,the Bush, and the Sea, 54 71 68 138 . Provis, . S. : it., 57 89 Beyond the Southern Lakes, 68 277 Psegan uhashi ( aucasus): 1st asc., 48 109 Farthest West, 68 277 Puoolle Grande accident: 66 406 obit. of Frank Milne,45 151 Puiseu ,P.: de th. 40 407 H. C. Chambers, 58 527 Puk-na Mts (K rea): 43 104 Porter, T. C.: death, 45 397, 428 Pulling H. G. obit. of H. L. R. Dent, Postal Coaches, a Century of Swiss Alpine: 52 11 revd.,45 181 Pulling r, F. A. Potolinik, M.: 'Triglav North face: Black rev. qf Climb' g in Britain, 55 434 Gully route,' 42 78 Thp Magic f Skye, 57431 Poucher, W. A. : obit. bf J. E.. Barford, 66 178 his books: Lakeland through the Lens, Pumari ish (Ka akorum): ill., 51 238, 240 63 81 Pumori (Himala a): ill., from N. Col.,45 219 Snowdoniathrough the Lens, 63 273 from Lingtre up, 49 129 Lakeland Holiday, 54 87 Punti do (An es): 47149 Escape to the Hills, 54 329 1st a c., 50 1 Scotland through the Lens, 54 329 ill.,4 150 LakelMldJourney, 55 228 Purcell Range ( anada): 44 273 Peak Panorama, 55 436 1st a c. of 3 nnamed pka. in, 40 383 A Camera in the Cairngorms,58 304 Purtsc eller, Ai uille: by W. face, 57 555 Over Lakeland Fells, 56 415 Pye, D : his b k: George J..eighMallory. The Magicof Skye, 57431 AM moir, 39 355 Lakeland ScrapboQk,57 586 Pyrami , Grea : asc. by ladies in 1888, The Magicof the Dolomites, 68 418 50 1 5 Ponrri, Mont: two davs on, 57 147 Pyrene,s: Flig t over, 40 325 ill., 57 148-9 • note pn, 43 3 5 Powell, C. H.: obit., 54 290 . Powell, E. W.: death, 45 407,414 obit., & port., 46 185 QADI~' ,GEo E: ill., 57 73 Powell,L. S. : Qu~a go.Ka. ahar (Himalaya): attempt, • Oocurrence of manganese near Val 3976,78-9 d'Isere. Savoy,' 43 151 ill., 78-9 " letter from Canada, 63 171 Quato e Points Coldes: cr., 44 309,45 238 obit. & port., 56 266 Queen ess (Ca da): asc., 63 388 Pozzolo, Mte (Corsica): asc., 40,174 Queen. ary ( rakorlUn): &SO.,46 413 Torre: aso.,40 175 Quincey, E. de death,41 218,258 58

RUNA (NORWAY):attempt. sa 224 Regahd, F.: bit., 40 371 Raeburn, H.: obit. & port., 39 126 po~t.,40 22 Racchl, W.: death,47 151 Reic enateln, he: 44 248 Rakaposhi: aac. of N.W. pk., 51 236 ReiIl , A. A.: his map of Mt Blanc, 54 attempt, 56329 38 ill., 46 135, 51 236-9 Roo's, early pine: 51 334 Rakhiot Pk.: 1st nac., 44 197 Rena d, A.: his book: Les Glaciers, 57 Ralam Pass (Himalaya): cr., 40 30, 58 61 57 Ramolkogel: tr.,53 346 Rend I, G. : obit., 65 82 Ramond: lea Carnets PyreUtlens de : Ren ,Bisho : 54 379-80, 385 Tome I, 44 156 Ropu lique, 19uillede In.: Tomes III & IV, 52 292 1st asc., 53 16 Ramparts (Canada): ill., 55 '32-.'l 2n aso., 4 409 Ramthang Pk. (Himalaya): asc., 42 214 Requ'n, Capu in du: 1st ase., 40 163 Randers.Heen, A.: I The East face of the Requf' Dent du : Trolltinder,' 44 283 aso .,4143 Ranrapalca (Peru): asc., 51 327 Y S.E. £, oe & S. artlte, 44 122 Raquettel!, use of: 40400 y E. fac & E.N .E. arete, 50 303,5398 Rasica, Punta: accident: 1935: 47 374 ear y hlstor ,39 105 asc.,55 15 ear y name, 49 8 ill., 46 []62 m. E. faoe, 39 110 Rae SufsMeh (Israel): ill., 40 340 Hese otti but . iII., 40 319 Rataban: 50 62 Rett ngulo, ie {Corsioa}: asc., 40 174 attempt, 50 67 Reve s, Gran : winter aso., 49 127 ill., 50 63 Rew s: fo mountaineering feats, 47 11, Riteau, Le: 12,194 N. face: alleged 1st asc., 44 ]40, 45 163 Rey, dolphe: port., 50 230 1st aso., 50 301 . Rey, mile: t climbs, & death: 48 26 a.E. face: 1st asc., 57 527 po .,4333 tr., 46 48, 52 211, 58 229 ill., his eha! t at 1,a Saxe, 50 231 ill., 54 122-3 Rey, mile (i .): port., 50 230 Ravanel, Aiguille: Rey, uida: ' asc., 48 270 aw rded Cr ix de la 1.egion d'Honneur, ill., 45 27.1 409 Ravanel, Arthur: death, 56 295 obi .,48 14 Ravanel, Gilbert: death, 55 226 po ., 39 1 5, 47 197, 48 149 Ravanel, Jean: death, 55 226 ill., his villa at Breuil, 48 150, 155 Ravanel, Jean Henri: death, 58 82 Rey, anon J les: death, 61 328 Ravanel, Joseph: obit.,44 117 Reyn er, A.: eath, 41 425 tribute to, 44 338, 48 399 Rhe' waldho : aso., 55 242 port., 44 114 1st by S. f: e, 41 211 Ra.vanel, Rene: death, 55 226 Rhon da, Mt Canada): 1st ase" 48 126 Ravin, Col du Grand {Atlas}: asc. on ski, 45108 ~~o~n~;: I.~ ~el'ship of, 50 149 Razor :by N. face, 49 105, 50 93 'T e North ridge of the Dent Bla.nehe,' Razorback, Mt (Greenland): aac., 46 33 276 Razorback, Mt (Canada): 1st aso., 47 2M Rie son,. (Miss) : Reade, H. V.: obit. of .r. P. Farrar, 41 185 her tr. of t e Chn.rmoz, 40 181, (see also obit. & port., 41 392 134,3 I) ..' Reade, W. R.: obit., 55 321 obi .,40 16 Rebarma, la: 1st asc. by W. arete, 39 339 R!chdilond, H. (Miss).: death, 52 136 Rebarma, Clocher de la: 1st desc. by N. face, Rlokz\Jan, T.. : obIt.• 55 297

39339 RiCierg, W. R.: I On the fringe of the Receveur, Le (N.Z.): 1st aso., 39 167,282 amirs,' 156 ilI.,39279 , Bl ek Fore t Mountain, Pamirs,' 41 261 RecC'as, Jebel {Tunisia}: by.\

Riokmers, W. R.: Robertsj M. : rev. of The Ascent of Mount Stalin, 49 135 poem : The reen Lake, 51 118 Bergvagabunden, 49 298 Ti es, 1946 57146 Das Gastgeschenk, 50 346 rev. o. Selacte Poems, 54 88 Festschrift der Akadelllisohen Sektion S.E S., 561 7 Wien des Deutschen Alpenvereins, To r on the Continent, 1765,56414 1887-1938,50346 obit. port.: 57 82 awarded Hon. Degree by lnnsbruck Roberts M. (Mrs): (see Smith, J. Adltm) University, 43 185 '. Roberts W. M.• obit. of P. R. P. Miers awarded Patron's medal of R.G.S., 47 158 6419 on mountain films, 43 333 Roberts n, A. E : obit. of A. E. Mltylard, ports., 46 305, 51 37 5627 Ridley, R.: letter re-attempt on Kn.met.by Roberts n, C. D.: 54 109 soldiers, 49 239 RObertan, E. B.: obit. of R. A. Robertson, Ried: archives of the Nesthorn hotel, 55 5626 261' Robert n, R. A.: obit., 56 268 Riffelhorn : Robinso ,A. M. aSCs.,47 248, 54 362, 48 139 note: Colour hotography, 49 278 by Matterhol'll couloir, 43 10 ne Ordnan e Survey map, 51140 at night, 62 97 hill bo k: Alp ne Roundabout, 56 301 sensational deso., 39 339 rev. 0 I Boug t a Mountain, 63 78 Rigele, Dr.: death, 49 281 obit., 7562 Rila: ill., lakes, 46 301 Robson l. (Can a): retreat of, 44 270 monastery, 46 305 Robson, J. W. :~bit. of A. Fox, 42 99 Rimhan, Gebel (Egypt); asc., 45 399 death 47 148, 196 ill., 42 232 Robson, Mt (Can da): 58257 Rimpfisohhorn : Mcid nt, 42 3 7 ases., 47 249 attem. t, 43 26 from Adler Pass, 55 389 aso., 263 by N. Ilirete,55 393 corres ndenc fe,44 172 doso. of, 58 136 nami of, 48 22 escape on, 64 125 ill., 258--68,44 270 ill., N. ridge, 68 130 Roc, Ai uille de: 1st asc., 39 331, 40 163, Rinderhom: by E. arate, 42 108 43 40 by N.E. fMe, 47 363 tr., 389 Ringsbrae (Norway): tr. to E. Ringstind, ill., 241-3, 64 6437 Roc No' , Grand: winter asc., 41228 Rinks gJ. (Greenla.lld): ill., sa 194-5 Roccia iva, Go olli dolla: asc., 48 187 Rinti Saddle (Garhwal): 40 287 Rocco d Navarr (Sicily): 1st asc., 55 363-4 Risch, Walter: narrow escape, 43 384 Rach, : Risenaasi (Norway): asc., 58 224 'The wiss ex dition to Greenland, 1938,' Rishi Gorge (Garhwal): ill., 48 143, 47 60" 61 05 4916-17 • Gar wal, 19 9: the Swiss expedition,' Ritchie, M. H. W.: 'The shores of Baffin 52 4 Bay,' 4749 his b ks: Sc weizer im Himalaja, 52·292 Robert, C. L.: 'A week-end on the Hoher Les Conque as de ma Jeunesse, 54 330 Ooe11,' 47 345 Ka akoraIll illlalaya, 55 330 Roberts, A. Carson: 'Alguillas: the tragedy On Rock an Ice, 56 303 of Emile Rey,' 48 26 Cll bs of III Youth, 57 270 , Reminiscenoes of La Melje,' 48 245 his d~wings 0 Himalayan porters, 52 46 obit., 55 95 . Rochat-Cenise: his book: Jacques Balmat Roberts, E. E.: obit. of J. J. Brigg, 55 83 du M nt Blan , 42 146 RobertR, J. O. M. : Rocher t, Aigui e de: tr., 48 138 , Himalayan byways,' 52 233 asc., 217 , Kulu revisited,' 53 323 . Rochet t Arete tr., 43 367, 45 233,50308, 'A reconnaissance of Saser Kangri, 52 17 Eastern Karllikorams, 1946,' 56149 ill., 5 303, 31 ,53 107 Roberts, 1\1.: Rocher ,Calot e de: by E. arete, 40 403 'The poetry and humour of mountain- 1st as . by S. ace, 41 202 eering,' 52 22 ill., S face, 41 203 , English travellers In the Graians,' 56 51, Rocher ,Dam de: 1st asc. by S. fMe, 157,252 3915 , Two da.ys on Mont Pourri,' 57 147 Rochers: de Nay : landslide, 55 390-1 note: the IlliteOttone Bron, 50 319 Rockspiltze: asc, 46 77 , I

I -----.------W'-.---, 60 INDEX TO VOLUMES 39 tj 53

ROOa.,Cima & Campanile di Val di: tr., Rosli>,Mte: 53 354 Nrrdend :J Rodehorn (Greellla.nd): 9.8c.,51 110 9.8CS Rodier, Hippolyte: death, 53 387 ' l;t: b~N.E. (Weisstor) face, 45 371, Roelfaema,E. J.: death, 55 100 53 3 Rogers, A.: obit., 58 401 iN.E. (F ntier) arete: asc., 58 517 Rogers, J. G.: obit. of H. L. Stimson, 58 desc., 7 360, 53 291 111 histor ,53 290 Rogers, N.: his book (with E. Huber): The itr. from to Breuiljooh, 42325,4313 CompleteSki Manual, 57 276 p' rrotspit e : Roger-Smith, H. R.: tr. to P lux, 58 517 his book:. Plant Hunting in Europe, Si alkup : 57 579 Me., 41 81 rev. of The Art and Sport of Alpine by E. rete, 40 315 Photography, 39 358 1st by N.E. face, 43 372 Amongthe Meadowsand Alpine Flowers Z msteins itze: of Northern Italy, 49 300 1st ase. y W. face, 39 315 Mountains in Flower, 52 156 I ., 41 2 1 The Propagation of A1pine.a,57 578 ilI~,E. face from Signa1joch,40 323 obit. of E. R. Taylor, 44 289 I (1935 oute),48 171 P. L. Giuseppi, 58 277 iom Ma terhorn, 53 31 G. P. Baker, 58 392 • face, 473 Rolleston, L. W. : '"umstei pitze; WI face, 39 315 obit. of H. A. Beeching,50 288 . ignalku. pc, E. arete, 40 318, 322 C. S. Ascherson, 55 298 . N.E. £: ce, 43 372 H. K. Corning,58 393 Rosdg, Piz : Rolleston, Mt (N.Z.): asc., 43 102 ac{lidents: 1933: 45 414,46 259, 47 5 Romm, M.: his book: The Ascent of Mount l' 1935i 47 151 Stalin, 49 135' a s., by E arete, 47 373 Romdalshorn: MC., 54 146,58225 YN. 0.1' te & Schneekuppe, 48 63

ill., 54 148 y N.E. ce, 42 329, 43 27 I Ronchetti, Punta (Caucasus);42 285 ~oms., 1 135 .1 Rooke, N.: rev. of British Hills and Moun- N.. face: history, 43 28 tains, 58 299 tr.: 1st in I day to Piz Bemina, 42 112 Room, H. W. R.: obit., 54 76 0 Pizzo ianco, 44 328 Roos, H.: death, 51 334 iIl./ N.E. fa ,41171, (1930route) 42 330, Rope(s)climbing,: defined, 57 325 t.rom43 Piz13, Remina,8-9 42 112 experience with climbing, 58 81 rom S., 287, 321 for mountaineering, li8 76 cene of 933 accident, 45 414-15 report on, 43 325, 44 107 Rose, Porta (Giissfe1dtSattel): in the Matterhorn accident of 1865,45 319 N.,slope, a c., 47 373 safety device, 54 250 n. tr. to rast' Agiizza,48 360 spare, in theory and practice, 41 63 ill.iN. slo ,43 30-1 use in rock climbing, 55 384 . slope, 391 Rorhoptind; Store: 1180., li1 46 Ros garten: chimney 011 E. face, 1st aso., 1st aso., 43 273 9 105n. , Rosa, Mte : bylS. arElte 46 325 ( Dufourspitze : ROSS~M': ob t. & port., 42 309 accident: 1935: 47 152 Roas , Pizzo oi: 55 13 1936: 48 366 Ross uppe: I., 44 252 asos., 39 333, 41 281,58 131, liS471 Ross uPfenk !1te: acoident, 48 375 by Cresta Rey, 53100 Ross, Cima 1: by E. face, 42 120, 43 888, 47 154, by N.W. fa ,42328 48 171 ski asc., 43 86 800asc., liS 183 i1l.~N. faoe (1930route) 42 328, 49 161} by S. face, 40394 "om Cim Vazzeda,53 19 1st, date of, li5 224 RosS~'Mte : li 13 on Italian map, 42 120 Rotb .. ttgrat~. ill., 41 419, 42 327 Nordend; Rate turm ( tra): asc.,48 17 MCS.: Roth, R.: de th, 50 147 by E. face, 43 388, 47 359, 53 287 l~oth~r,R. : from Silbersnttel reaohed from E., hisI book: Willy Merkl: ein Weg zum 45160 Jt.TangaP rbat, 49 299

, I INDEX TO VOLUMES 39 to 58 61

Rothorn, Ober & Unter: asc., 48 139 Russia: . mount neering in, 57 184 Rothorn, Zinal : Rutor,~ta di: asc., 67 293 ascs., 47 373, 52 188, 53 11, 99, 54 349, Rutter, .: his ok: Blindncr Alpen, IV 55414 Band, 47 389 Ist,41226 Ruttle e, H. : 1st by S.E. arete attained from E., 'Wan erings' the Kumaun Himalaya, 44 313, 45 313 192 -192ll,' 971 1st by S.E. arete & E. face, 40 378 'The Mount ycrest expedition, 1933,' 1st direct by E. face, 55 312 ". 45 16 by N. arete attained from E., 42 324 'Mo t Evere t: the sixth expedition,' by S.W. areta, 44 125 48 1 Mummery's, 53 374 his bo ks: Ev rest, 1933,46432 tr., 55 2 Eve est, th Unfinished Adventure, accident: 1930: 42350 6 155 ill., S.E. arete, 40 378 rev. 0 Himala an Assault, 50 349 from E., 45 313 ohit. Chetin, 42 313 from S., 558 He Lama of Rongbuk Monastery, Rothlauihorn: by S. arete, & tr. to Schilt- 530 horn,41418 award Foun r's Medal ofR.G.S., 46 220 Rotondo (Co)'Sica): group, 40 172 Ruwenz ri: Mte, by N.W. face, 40173-4 Hump ys (1 6), 39 99 Torre de, Me., 40 175 Shipto & Til an (1932), 44 88 Rotondo grol.1p(Alps): ill., 57 360 Belgia (1933) rom W., 45 275 Rottalhorn: accident: 1928: 40424 Hodg 'n (1941 53 313 ill., 40 359 histo & expl ation of the range, 118 483 Rouge, Aiguille (N.Z.): I18C.,39 166, 273, Moun Stanle & Speke, 55 257 41304 Portal Peaks, Ii 259 Rouges, Aigllilles (Chamonix): climbs in, Mount Gessi, 17 57163,166 S. Por al Pk., t asc., 54 81 Rousse, Grande (Graians): ill., 57 294 Mount Stanley Polish asc. hy E. face, Rousses, Grandes: seen from Dent aux 5425 Favres, 43 136 Yariou~ &scs.,6 323 Roussette, Ill.: asc., 53 305 ill., 3 100, 1 4, 44 88-95, 46 275-87, Rowland, E. G.: his book: Hill Walking in 54 2 8-9,55 60,5616-17 Snowdonia, 58 425 Ryan, M F.: no : Puntiagudo, 47 149 Royal Geographical Society: centenary, Ryle, J. C.: 0 it. of C. Crichton-Miller, 42 345, 43 185 54199 RUil.pehu(N.Z.): ill., 49 96-7 Rysy (T tra): as ., 48 22 Rubenson, C. W.: obit. ofF. Nansen, 42 297 Rytterk egten ( reenland): asc., 51 110 Ruchenfensterturm: accident: 1937: 49 285 Rudge, E. C. W.: 'Bridging the gap,' 58360 Rudolf, M. E. S.: obit. & port., 52 278 Run, Pta. (Corsica): I18c.,40 174 SAAS,CR STADI: tr., 42 345 Ruine, Grande: asc., 44 207 Saas Fee~. ski aC 'dent: 1935: 47345 ill., 40 7 ski ace dent: ] 49: 67 98 Rulten (Lofoten): I18CS.,43 274, 51 46 Sabre, up de : ., 44 208 Rumbold, T. A.: obit. of F. O. Schuster, Saffron . (Can ): 1st asc., 43 169 48 326 Sagliains" Piz: as ., 66 361 W. Weston, 52 271 St. Agn~ Mt ( aska): 1st asc., 50 324, Runge, H.: obit. of A. P. Milller, 51318 61 2 7 " Rupa: new asc. on, 49 roo ill.,51 10-19 Ruskin, J.: 64 98 St. Cathetine, Mo tery of: visited, &8 208 & J. D. Forbes, 54 379,381,384--5 St. Dionyjsius, Mo astery of: 39 93 & Melchior Ulrich, 55 320 ill.,39 5 reproduction of painting by, 42 ISO St. Elias,Mt (Ala~): ill., 3922, 57 484 Russell, R. Scott: range, SO-I • The Beerenberg-Jan Mayen,' 51 18 Saint·Lo p: his ok: La. Montagne n'a 'The Karakoram expedition, 1939,' 52195 pas ou1u, 57 273 , Geneva-Oxford University Climbing Monts acifique 58417 ' meet,' 55413 St. Mauri e, Abbe of: damaged, 63 266 , Earlier crossings of the Nushik I.a,' 5& 64 St. Nicho as Pk. ( anada): 1st asc., 43 76, his book: Mountain Prospect, 58 89 167 rev. of Mountains and Moorlands, 57 586 ill., 43 76 III : Pjo,". Tomd. 0,'" ,1~::::~OL:t::~::rra Nevada de (Colombia): 47 151 5~ 243, 63 270 from N., 50 195 san~i' F.: d ath,51 328 Sajama (Andes): 3rd asc., 5680 San is: asc. 54 15 Sa-Kang La (Karakorum): cr., 39 223 a cident: 1943: 64 205 Sakharis Magali (Cauoasus): 1st asc., 48 105 San ner, Ka : Strutt's appreciation, 63 343 Saladin," L.: 'Two Caucasian Journeys,' Sar ach (Ca ada): asc., 53 334 47 103 Sar nne, J. : death, 48 363 hi~ book: Trois Cures en Montagne, 58 Salbitschyn: 57547 1146 by S. arete, 48 172 Sar k Mts (S eden): 41 361 ill., S. arete, 48 176-7, 57548 Sar iellto, t (S. Amerioa) : S. face, 57 548--9 a tempt, 5 6 S.W. arete, 67 548--9 il ., 46 64 Salcantay (Andes): E. Pk., 1st asc., 58 135 Sar 0 Laggo: iII., 60 35 S.E. face, attempt, 58 135 Sar 0 Laggo Pass: cr., 50 39 1st asc., 58 534 Sar in, G de: asc. & ill., 41 413 Saleinaz gl.: ill., 68 328--9 Sa ra., Piz ill.; 66 122-3 Saleve, Mt: Blaikie's accident, 46 6 Sas 11' Kangci (Karakorum): reconnaissance, Salis, G. von: 'The M1lnchas a point for 66 149 Scientifio Observation,' 40 .359 ill., 58 154 156 Salm-Reiffersoheid, Prince-Bishop: port., sasr La (K rakorum): 01'., 39 212 51 95 Sas atchew , Mt (Canada): 2nd asc., Salt, G.: 'Things by the way,' 65 356 4 429,4244 awarded Murchison grant of R.G.8.: Sas~Maor : ., 63 354 68 269 Sassp Cavall : by S.E. faoe, 52 140 Salyinan Bashi (Cauoasus): aso., 42 133 Sj d'lt a, Gran: 41 217, 55 :l64 ··6, Samivel: his books: Sous l'ooildes Ohoucas, 58 111, 19 ou lea Plaisirs de I'Alpinisme, 44 371 .. ,56368 56114-15 - 10°, 46 180 Sat pauth ( imalaya): 1st asc., 56 188 L'Amateur d'Abimes, 68 278 C ntral P • 1st asc., 48 316 Contes a. Pic, 68 279 P nacle oN. buttreBB,1st asc., 46 313 Sampson, Mt (Canada): 1st asC., 40 383, ~~tempts, 1 81-2 41 847 • ~, 46 31 16, 61 81, 83 ill., 41 347 Sat~lhorn : c., 39 156,43 50 Sand, George: visit to Chamonix, 55 127 ~t asc., 5 184 Sandal, Mt (Pamirs): ill., 41 156, 158 Sau age, E. death, 49 277 Sanderson's Hope (Greenland): 1st ~so., Sav ill.Pass Karakorum): ill., 51 54 49 197 Sav ye, Cyp ien: death, 65 323 asc., 47 49 SCill: mci ents on, 53 247 Sanford, Mt (Alaska): 1st asc., 51 222 P e, asc., 7172 ."". ill., 51 222-9 Sca no, Fore la dello: 1st cr., 39 135 Sang, G.: obit. & port., 43 166 Sea no, Lo: from the E., 49 120 Sane Nom, Aiguille : Se tseha.lla, Piz: by E. face & S. arllte, by W. arete & tr. to Aignille Velie, 39 4 115 133 Sca ia, S di: by N.E. arllte, 58 524 from Nant Blanc gl. (N.W. face) & tr. to Sce I cen-Ber ma, Fuorcla.: AiguiIleVerte, 40 405,41 207 h' tory, 43 319, 44 103 tr., 50 306 2 d aso. 0 N. slope, 48 360, SO 146 ill., 52 228 i , 43 320 3, 44 106 Sans Nom, Breche: history, 39 133 n., 340 Scer cen gl.: ill., 43 286

46 209 S. face: n w route, 40 401 asc. from gl. Nair, 52139 b N. face 42328,43 24,387 1st from 001 du Pelvoux, 57 536 b ice no ,& tr. to Piz Bemina·Piz Palii, 1st by N. fa.ee,58 131 47 373 ill., 41 170,44 208 fr m pjz emina, 44 330 from gl. Blanc, 39 246 w nter asc., 50 321 Sans Nom, Petit Pic: e rly atte~Pt, 43 319 1st sac. by N. face, 49 119 . ,43 287 ill.,41170 from Pi Roseg,42 112 Sanseverino, J. : ice nose, 43 23 note: Alexander Burgener's Ffihrerbueh, IS. face, 3 321 58 410 ScMlfkogel: ase., 48 59 . I

i I I I INDEX TO VOLUMES 39 to 58! 63 Sohallihorn: asc., 68 465 by S.E. arete, 47 358 SC~f~CM~~nia~r~l~:kroute), 51323 ill., 66 384rl>,467 fro~ N.W., 44 Schlitz, J. J.: his book: Die Wunder der Schucan P.: de th, 42 342 Alpen, 57 423 Schulz, .: dea h, 41 424 Sohaufelspitze: asc., 41 297 Sohnssel arspitzel: S.E. face, 1st asc., 48 73 Sohertel, Hermann: death, 60 336 Schuster C. (Lor Schuster): Scheuohzerhom: attempt, 65 244 'An a stract A ine subject,' 46 13 Sohiller, F. N.: obit., 51 127 '. 'A Ma fox an March hares,' 48 234 port., 51 123 note: a foo ote on the Matterhom Schi/thorn: by N. arllte from Rothlauihorn, acci ont, 54 2 41418 Yaledi tory ad ress,53 1 aso.,43 131 his bo ks: Me , Women, and Mount.ains, Schladming: accident near, 47 152 154 ' Schlegcis Kees: ill., 48 64-5 Pos script to Adventure, 57 588 Schlickersee Spitze: asc.. 41 300 rev. 0 Mount ns of Memory, 67 104 Schlunegger, Hans: death, 62 130 Tra cIs amo gst the Great Andes, 57 Schmid, l!'.: port., 44 349 4 I Schmid, H. R.: his book (with A. M. obit. J. J. ithers, 52 107 Schwarzellibach): Was nicht in Baedeker Jos ph Turo, 53 884 steht: Schweiz, 46 438 R. . G. Ma~or, 56 169 Schmid, T.: obit. & port., 44 348 L.. Scott, 559 Schmid, W.: his book: Kommen wit mil' Schuster F. O. : ins Wallis,.55 333 obit. 0 M. Imfi ld-Sei/er, 42 311 Sohmidkunz" W.: his book: Bergvaga- F. _Ellis, 133 bunden, 49 298 50 ye 1'8 a m mber of Alpine Club, 40 Schmitt, F.:, his book: Sommerski,47 171 179 Schneehorn: accident: 1936: 48368 60th v sit to Z att, 46 399 8chneereifen ': 53 140 obit., 326 Schneestock I by E. buttress, 48 174 ports., 48 221, Schneider, E.: 'The accident 011 Nanga memo '0,1to, 4 Parbat,' 46 423 Schwarz , Hinte • The German assault on Nanga Parba.t,' Schwarz nbach, 4792 his baok (wit Schofield, J. W.: death, 43 381, 428 nich in B Sohomberg, R. C. F. : 4648 • The Upper Aghias, Central Tian Shan,' Schwarz ruber, 4579 'The .u.OE. ·Y. in the Cauoasus,19M,' • The Bar and Da.intar glaciers, 1933,' 46 481 5 131 'The .u.OE. -V.in the Cauoasus, 1936,' , The glaciers of Upper Ishkoman,' 46 344 497 'Passes-Northern Yasin,' 47 316 'The ennan arhwal-Himalaya expedi. • Some glaciers of Upper Ohitral,' 47 98 Hon 1938,' 5 79 'Derdi and Chapu1'8an Yalleys: moun· Schwarz e: ill., arly morning clouds from, tains of N.W. Chitral,' 48 295 5327 • Lutkuh and Hunza,' 48 124 Scimitar alley ( anada): ill., nameless pk. • The Nushik La in 1943,' 56 61 above, 47 79 Schonbiohlerhorn: 48 68 Sciora, 0 di : 17 Schopf, Gottfried: port.., 48 59 1st asc by W. uttress,41 224 obit., 57 93 ill.,53 19 Schreokhom, Gross: Sciora ill dentro: 55 17 ascs., 43 120, 55 245 Sciora di fuori: y N.W. face, 47 155 by S.W. ridge, 40 192,62125, 63 103, Sciora gr up: ill. 55 9 55353 Sciora, to, Piod di: 1st asc. by N. slope attained from N., 49273 of E. /lte,39 16 1st by N.W. ridge, 57 531 Sciora ri( ge: tr., 47 155 by W. face, 63 267 Scotland: climb' gin, 46 259, 66 31 1st, 47 365 ski mo ntainee ing in, 54 127 by N.E. face, 51 323 Scott, H. E.: obII' of P. S. Minor, 39 306 tr. & 1st dese. of S.W. ridge, 55 282 Scott, L. F.: obi ., 57 559 1 ill., from Lauteraarhorn, 40 241 Scott, M (Canad): 1st ascs., 40 382, 41 from E., 40 240 341-2' I' from S., 44 60 Scott, W~S.: • Sritzerland a century ago,' W. face (1935 route), 47 366 55 175 I 64

Scottish Mountaineering Club: Sfing~,La : N. arete, 43 383 books: Journal (Jubiloo number), 51 345 Sgur~ Alasda' : ill., 45 264 Guide to the Isle of Skye, 57 115, 260 Sgur Nan G' ean: ill., 45 265,56383 • Scrambles amongst the .Alps': printer's Sg Sgumai: ill., 45 264 error in, 58 535 Sgur Thearl ch: ill., 45 264 Scrambling, irresponsible: 42 127 Shak gam: S rveyexpedition (1926),39 209 Scriven, G.: obit. & port., 44 112 no e 011, 39 241 Sealy, Mt (N.Z.): asc., 39267,342 ex edition 1937),5034 Sedgwick, W.: obit,.ofF. N. Schiller, 51127 It lian exp ition (1929), 41 429 obit., 58 395 ill. 39 21 0, SO 35 ~eeko.uer~lps: 44 256 Sha! uz (Can sus): asC.,53 235 Seekopf: ill., 40 301 Shan, au (Cau us): 1st asc.,48 105 Sefton, Mt (N.Z.): Shar ,H. F .. : obit. & port., 50 133 ascs.,44 142 Shar e, W. S : obit. of n. Lawford, 57 85 from W., 43 397 A. G. Math ws, 67 240 by N. a.r8te,50 140 Shay'b, Gebe (Egypt): asc., 66 33, 58212 manJess, 47 159 Shea C. E.: obit. & port., 43 345 third pk. 1st asc., 43 398 Shel ikhtau ( aucasus): by N. face, 48 85 Seiler, F.'au Alexander: death, 43 385 Shen ib, Ge (Egypt): aBC.,42231 Seiler family: 44 lJ49 3?: ,~, Shon odm, G bel (1~gypt,): attempt; 42 230 Seiler, Joseph: obit. & port., 41 400 Sher ingtoll, C.: 'Grindelwald in winter, Seisera Valley: ill., 44 87 18 7,' 57 1 S61e,Pte du: ill., 44 208 She ill, M ham: his collection of auto· Seligman, G. : g phs, 50 62 'More about mountains under snow,' Shik Iditau ( aucasus): 5029 55 287 Shll ·Muz.J ga (Pamirs): ill., 41 156 •Snowcraft and avalanches,' 56 120 Shi (Hima ya): 52240 his book: Snow StruQture and Ski Fields, Ship on, D.: her book: The Antique Land, 48 380 68 152 rev. of Sommerski and Der Sommerski, Ship on, E .. : 47171 , e first raverse of the twin peaks of Ski.ing, 49 139 ount 1 enya,' 43 138 The Complete Book of Ski.ing, 49 139 , ountain of the Moon,' 44 88 Scientific Results of the Dutch Expedi. , ashar Pin,' 46 129 tion to the Karakoram. Vol. II. • he Nan a Devi basin,' 47 58 Glaciology, 51 152 , he Mou t Everest recounaissance, 1935,' I,ll.Nature Alpine, 57 112 1 Beitrag zu den Theoretischen Grund· , urvay in the Nanda.Davi distriot,' 49 27 lagen des Lawinenverbaus, 57 112 cent 0 Gordamah Peak, North Silr· obit. of C. S. Myers, 56 73 im,' 49103 Fritz Steuri, 68 122 , haksga expedition, 1937,'5034 on ski~ingin Scotland, 54 131 he Arch ' 56 227 awarded Back Grant of R.G.S., 52 283 • ustagh ta,' 56 317 Selismta (Caucasus): by W. arete, 48 105 , ogdo 0 " 57 467 Sella, G.: death, 62 137 h' books: Nanda Devi, 48 203 Sella, La: tr.,43 15 Blank 0 the Map, SO 345 Sella Pass: cr., 43 286-7 Upon t t Mountain, 54 321 Sella Tower, Third (Dolomites): asc., 45 274 Mounta,' S of Tar1.ary,58 413 Sella, V.: obit., &4292 Ie ter: fr Kashgn,r,53 395 Seltau Range (Pamirs): 40 407, 41 265 o ·t. of M. Spender, 55 318 Senger, M.: a, arded atron's ]~edal of R.G.S., 50 his book: Wie die Schweizer Alpen 317 erobert wurden, 55 332 Shi a TempI (Oolorado): 50257 Senora (Spain): 1st asc., 58 134 , .,502489 Sentinel, the (S. Africa): asc.,40 110 Shi ling (Ga hwal): reconnaissance, 51 81 Senza Nome, Pta. (Corsica): asc.,45 144 · .,15182 Serbal, Mt (Israel): asc., 40 339 Sh' ra (Cau sus): Series: 1st winter asc., 53 343 2 d asc., 167 . Serleskamm, the (Stubai .Alps): 41 300 t .,42347 43 400,4980 Serrucho (Andes): 1st asc., 58 409 NI.E.Pk. y' Tra.peze' route, 48 108 Seven Lakes, Valley of: ill., 5090 i~., from schumurtscheran Tau, 41 166 Seylaz, L. : his book: Alpes Vaudoises, 57271 :and Be ngi gl., 46 361 Seymour, H. F.: death, 55 100, 120 N. face, 47118 Seymour, H. S.: death, 43 179,219 from N.49 80 INDEX TO VOLUMES!39to sal 65 Shore, C. R.: dea~h: 45 397, 429 Sir Don~'\d, Mt ij,...,.), It. _, from E.,

Shortt, C. W. :. obIt. of J. Shortt, 44 286 43 65,268 I' Shortt, J.: obIt. & port., 44 286 tr.,43 264: Shtshurowski, Pic (Caucasus): aac., 47 117 heightl,44 2641 Shtulu Pass (Caucasus): attempt, 46 361 by N.W. arete, 46 87 cr., 47 112 ill., 4687, 54 1 4-5 Shukoran, Mt (Formosa): asc., 46 340 Sir DO~las Haig Mt: 1st aac., 42 71 ' Shyok gls. (Karakorum): 44 237 Sir Jo Thom on, Mt: ill., view from, ~44~~1 , ~g. Side, A. D. B.: 'Mountaineering with the Sirao, I, : Army in the MiddleEast,' 57 66 asc., 4 169, 5 109 note: Mountain resoue, 55 197 1st Y N. fa e, 44 805 Sigurdsson, O. (Iceland guide): 4096 ill., N. face, 44305 Sikkim (see Special List) (191 & 193 routes), 44 306 Silberhorn: desc. by N.W. arete & face, Sissone, tel 5513 41 416 tr. of 'dge to a Rasica, 44 330, 45 160 variation on N.E. face, 52 126 Sissons, . B. : bit. of A. P. Coleman, 51 ill., 55 361 293 N.W. routes, 41417 Slcagastostind, Sore: aac.,54 145 N.W. arete, 41 418 by S. cc,40 71 N.W. face (1931route), 43 376 1st asd., 41 384 N.E. face (1939route), 52 126 tr. to jertvast nd, 53 249 from N.E., 57 17 ill., 40 177,41 85 ridge, 55 361 Skala orku (0 uoasus): attempt, 41 ]67 Silberhorn (N.Z.): asc., 39 164 Skamsi nge (Ka akorum): ill., 50 51 attempt, 39 267 Skantze, .:' T e Paulin aneroid,' 40 360 tr. of main divide to Haidinger, 39 168 Skasski. (Cauc us): 48 89 ill., 41 311-12, 50 221 ill., 48 8 Silbersattel: ,from the E., 45 160 Skatil[o (Cauo 46 408, Sild-Ficker, C.: port" 5133 471 3 Sils Lake: electricity scheme, 39 157, 337, ill.,47 14 40 185 Skene, M (Canad ): 1st asc., 43 78, 168 Silverbjoerg(Greenland): asc., 51 no Sketohin in the Ips: 52 1 Silverthorne, Mt (Canada): 1st aac., 48 360 Skis: u d in the Pamirs, 41 158 Sim, J. A.: elected hon. member of Alpine probab e 1st B ish wearer, 41 388 Club, 5&168 types ,55 156 288 Simi!aun: ill., 48 59 ill., 47 72-3 Simler, .J.: his book: Vallesiae Desoriptio Ski·inst coors: 'guides,' 47 152 et de Alpibus Oommentarius,history of Ski-runn : a de ence of, 39 374, 40 213 the de Thou copy, 40 141 & the 'sk ofav !anches, 41 88 ports., 40 144 Ski Moun aineerin : 43 283 Simon, Albert: death, 44 345 in Scot and, 54 27 Simon, C.: his book: Erlebnisse nnd in New Zealand 49 87 Gedanken eines alten Bergsteigers, 1880-- Sma, G bel el ( Afrioa): by W. buttress, 1930,44 161 55363 Simond, Alfred: obit. & port,.,40162 Skridutin ar (Icel nd): & ill., 40 88 Simond, Franyois: obit., 51 316 Skrine. C P.: Simond, ,Joseph: death, 44 U8, 338 rev. of he Ant' ne Land, 68 152 Simonsberg(8. Afrioa): ill., 49 235 Mou tains of artary, 58 413 Simplon Pass: early cr., 54 180 Chin to Chit aI, 58 413 model of, 51 335 Skrlatica asc. by N.W. fuce, 41 75 Simsaga (Himalaya): 54 403 by Ieu eg, 4 105,50 94 ill., 54 404 ill., 41 5-6 Simvu (Sikkim): 1st asc., 48 360, 49 47 Skrnen ( orway): aso., 58223 ill., 4948-9 Skye: 0 bing i ,45 266, 53 337, 54 337, Simvu La : 66 3 ,57 54 1st cr., 44 23 S.M.C.Ouide to 57 115 ?r., 50 113,53 204 Siaok: E. I deat~, 397 11I.,50111 Slatatn, :mz: ski so., 43 285 Sinai, lit: 40 338 Slater, C.! death, 2 128, 170 Siniolchu(Sikkim): 1st aso., 48 359, 4945-6 Slater, E=iV.: dea h, 45 407, 414 2nd asc., 50 139 obit., 4 184 ill., 48 313, 49 48-9, 50 110 port., 189 I SiniolohuRock Needle: ill., 44 23 Sledging: ;a la Ra~e, &3 59

I i , iI I I

! I ------~-- 66 , , Sleeman, C. M.: 'Olympus from the West Smythe, F. Sf : and South,' 41 377 le~ter, fron Canada, 54 307 'The mountains of Albania,' 4255 lli~ bOOkS.: Climbs and Ski Runs, 41 440 '.Tumrukeal,' 46 159 ,he Kan chenjunga Adventure, 43 201 note on Mount Olympus, 40 101, 402 amot onquered, 44 367 obit. of W. T. Elmslie, 55 86 Alp' e Joumey, 47 181 Siesser, C. G. M.: 'Greenland, 1950, Pa,l't 2,' e Spir t of the Hills, 48 197 sa 199 verTy lese Hills, 49 130 Sligachan: ill., 53 336 amp SI ,49 294 Slings, foot: ill., 51 335-7 he Mou tain Scene, 49 296 Slingsby, W. 0.: 54 111-13 he Vall of Flowers, 50 338 his book: Norway, the Northern Play- eaks a Valleys, 50 344 ground, 53 177 idward hymper,52 147 obit., 41 383 he Ad entures of a Mountaineer, 52 port., 41 383, 394 151 centenary of birth, 57 256 Came in the Hills, 52 152 Sloan, Mt (Canada): 8.se.,57 5]5 fount,a! eering Holiday, 52 287 Slogen (Norway): Me., 46 38, 55 280, 428, Y Alpi e Album, 53 80 56 368, 58 223 he MO~ltain Vision, 53 275 ill., 55281, sa 222 ~ritish ountaineers, 53 276 Slovene Alps: guide book to, 50 326 pver W sh Hills, 53 273 Smith, Albert: & Mt Blanc, 55 128, sa 1 eret 'ssion, 63 400 lost mementoes of, 46 215 pine ways, M86 his letter re Alpine Club, sa 3 now on the Hills, 56 88 table game, sa 136 ain S itzerland, 56 413 Smith, G. Adam: obit., 54 85 cky oUlltains,57 104 Smith, J. Adam: note: early English wiss W tel', 57 118 travellers ill the Graians, sa 273 ountai s in Colour, 57 423 her book: Mountain Holidays, 55 324 limbs' the Canadian Rookies, 5B 145 rev. of Guide de Tarentaise et Maurienne, e 'tor of ymper's Travels Il>mongstthe 51436 reat A des, 57 431 Rambles in the Alps, 58 428 o ·t. of E .. M. Wedderburn, 55 93 obit. of G. Adam Smith, 54 85 · R. OJ vel', 55 212 Smith, J. D.: death, 53 264 • el cted ho . member of C.A.F., 44 334 Smith, K. C. : rev. of Again Switzerland, sa413 oljit., 57 2. 0, 419 Smith, M. K.: obit., 55 298 Mrts., 51 2, 57 234 port., 55 297 Sna hoetten Greenland): asc., sa 196 Smuts, J. C.: ohit., 57 557 Sno Commi sion, International: 48 217 port., 56 374 Sno craft: avalanohes, 56 120 Smyth, A. J. M.: 'Airorew mountain centre, Sno don: il., 53 121, 127 Kashmir,' 66 215 Sno oavos: 56 112, 57 99 Smythe, F. S. : ill,56115 'The first ascent of Mont Blanc direct Sno Dome anada): asc., 55 43, 349 from the Brenva glacier,' 40 58 Sno Lake ( arakorum): 50 49 'Some physical characteristics of snow ill ,52 196, 202, 207 avalanches,' 41 88 Sno Pass ( nada): 1st or., 40 384 'The assault on Kangchenjunga, 1930,' Sole tind (No ay): aso., 58 222 42202 Solis 0, Gros (Tatra): tr., 47315 'The Kamet expedition, 1931,' 43 289 Soli ire, Mt Canada): 1st asc., 3968 , Jagi and Bietschhoerner,' 44 277 SolI del', E : death, 43404 'Garhwal, 1937,' 50 60 Soli ,G. A.: 'Fifty years ago,' 47 244 'Dauphine and Mont Blanc, 1939,' 52 10 , e Alph bel in 1906,' 53 210 'Some experiences in mountain warfare ol:lit. of T. eares, 41 197 training,' 55 233, 345 · W. B ant, 46 377 'An expedition to the Lloyd George · L. Co . s, 49 264 mountains of North-east British CoIUln. o ·t., 53 3 bill,,' 56 354 po s.,53 6-7 note: Aiguille de Grepon, 39 335 Soli ein, Gr S8: tr. to Bettelwurfspitze, Eiger-winter attempt, 41 229 53 343 the acoident on the S. face of Mont Som 1'8, .J. P.: obit., 54 70 . Blanc, 46 415 t., 54 7 the Solvay hut, 46 408 Som rvell, T H.: 'Clhnhing in the Tatra on post. monsoon conditions in the Eastem monnta! s,' 48 ]5 Himalaya, 53 205 hi$ book: ter Everest, 49 132 67

Somervell, T. H. : Spik: ace, 1 t a8O.,39 138 rev. of Nanda. Devi, 48 203 N.W.ifce, lilt c., 44 100 When Men and Mountains Meet, 55 431 asc.,4 180 Songuta (Cauoasus): aso.,48 116 ill., N. face, 39 139 ill.,47114 N.~ N.W. faces (va.rious routes), 44 Sonnblick: accident, 40 189 1 3 Sonnenspitze: aso., 53 342 Spitsko Great ( . Africa.): ill., 56 376 Sorata: (see Illampu) Spitz her en: as cta of mountaineering in, Soreiller, Alguilles de: acoident.: 1930 : 5418 52141 Spitze uh: asc, 49 62 Soaneado. Mt (Andes): 1st asc., 48 177 ill., 49 64 ill.,48 176-7 Spitzma er: Sources, Mt aux (8. Afrioa): 40 190, 42 335 accide t: 193 : 44 347 South Afrioa (see Special List) 19 : 50335 Southey, Robert: poem, 51 145 Spoleto, .R.H. uIte of: Sparrhbrn: asc., 48 138 eleot hon. me ber of Alpine Club, 42 120 Speaker, G. R.: death, 53 396 a.ward d Patro 's Medal of R.G.S., 44 141 funeral, 53 397 Squanee F. C.: eath, 49 271, 309 obit., 54 74 Sri Kail h (Gar al): 1st aIlC.,51 83 port"", 53 1177,54 74 Sron Nil,Ciche: i .,54 344-5 Spelterini, Capt.: 56 282 Stabele urm: (s Vajolettiirme) Spenoe, Mt (N.Z.): aso., 48 283 Stable, . W.: d ath, 41 418, 42 160 Spence, W. M.: dea.th, 39 328, 40 217 Sta.irCall Pk. (Ka akorum): ill., 50 46 Spenoer, S. : Stallard, G.: dell.h, 54 455 . 'Early ascents of Mont Blano: Fellows Stangen itzen: [1.' 48 64-5 and Hawes,' 43 312 Stanley aldwin, M:t(Canada): 39340 , Days with four great guides,' 53 185 Stargaze (N.Z.): 43 89 note: the Dom in winter, 40 409 attem ,43 90 Mountaineering film!ll,43 389, 44 136 1st as ., 48 188 hia book (editor): I,oIlsdale Library, ill., 43 81 Mounta.ineering, 47 163 Stark, F.I: rev. of Alpine Days and Nights, 44 374 her bJ;ks: Th Valleys of the Assassins, Modem Mountaineering, 45419 46434 Pavements and Peaks, 46 236 Tra eller's Peluda, &8 148 VAlpinisme, 48 241 Starr, W A.: Wall nicht im Baedeker steht: Schweiz, his bo It: Gni e to the JohnMuir Trail 48 438 and he High Bierra Region, 47 182 Guide to the John Muir Trail and the Staubla . e: 41 4 High Sierra Region, 47 182 Stead, F. B. : Alpinistes d'autrefois, 48 198 obit. 0 J. H. noaster, 56 272 Encordees, 49 133 Stecknad lhorIl : Guide des Alpes Valaisannes : Vois. I & naos., st from ied gl., 41 316 II,50167 & tr. of Ho erghom & Diirrenhorn, Alpine Byways, 54 86 412 2 Escape to the Hills, 54 329 ill., 41 24-5 . Scotland through the Lens, 54 329 Steele, M1i~(Alask ): 1st asc., 47 373, 48 81 L'Epopee Alpestre, 55 112 2nd as ., SO 10 tribute to J. P. Farrar, 41 184 ill., 48 0-1, 5099-107 obit. of H. E. M. StutfieJd, 41 391 Stein. A. ': Emil Loohmatter, 43 354 obit. 0 F. de F lippi, 51 296 Hans Almer, 53 263 award Trien iaI Gold Medal of Asiatic H. Speyer, &3377 . Sooi ty, 44 3 J. P. Somers, 54 70 obit., 287 P. Montandon, 56 392 Steinauer L.: elected hon. member of Alpi.ne Club, 'Gran es Jor es, North face: third 49121 nace t.' 48 76 80th birthday, 53 406 Stelvio P ss: ill., 46 76 obit., 67 410 Stephen, .: 54 1 1-5 ports., 53 191, 57 410 his boo : La T rrain de Jeu de l'Europe, Spender, M. A.: note: the new map of 4737 ' Switzerland, 61 141 letters to some rench friends, 47 253 obit., 55 318 & the :$ietschh n, 49 279 Speyer, H.: obit., 53 377 & the Grepon, 5 224 Spide, Mt (Corsica): asOB.,40 174-5 port., .149 ! 68

Stereo.Photogrammetry: 47 156 Str~hlhorn: desc. of E. face, 48 350 Steuri, Fritz: injured, 48 369 ., 56 3 , 67 222 1,OOOthasc. of Jungfrau, 52 284 iI., E. fa e (1935-36 routes), 48 351 obit., 58 121 Str hlhorne : 2nd summit, by S.E. face, Stevens, E. H. : 1322 'Dr. Paccard's "Lost Narrative." An Str tfieId, . R.: obit., &3 67 attempted reoonstruction,' 41 98 Str tchers: ill., 55 200 'Dr. Paccard's " Lost Narrative." Some St la, M. M.: corrigenda and addenda,' 42 94, 165 'The Ea ern arate of the Signalkuppe,' 'Dr. Paccard's diary,' 46 1 ! 40315 , In the footsteps of Dr. Paccard,' 47 197, ',Climbs om Maligne Lake (Northern 49 I anadi Rockies),' 41 340 , A famous Alpine story,' 53 81, 175, 268 , e first ascent of l\ft Oubliette,' 45 341 , Portraits of Whymper,' 53 156 Str tt, E. L : , Leslie Stephen and the Grepon,' 53 224 , ount verest. The Third expedition. , Some familiar traverses,' 54 117 An Aus rian criticism,' 39 117 , James David Forbes,' 54 372 ,~ n extra rdinary escape,' 39 113 'The vertical retardation of the ice of , ~nde asse-Gro,nde Motte trav.erse,' glaciers,' 65 271 40 114 notes: Cauoasus notes, 47160 , he first ascent of Piz B&dilet,' 41 371 Leslie Stephen and the Bietsohhorn, , orela carscen-Bernina,' 43 319 49279 , he Eng 'sh Mount Everest expedition,' Pacoard'a ascent of Mont Blanc, 63 268 !44 262 rev. of Tableau I,itteraire du Massif du " superi rity complex? ' 46 374 Mont Blanc, 42 367 , emora Ie days,' 53 II, 176 Early Travellers in the Alps, 43 199 , he East rn Alps in the 90's,' 63 338 Los Carnets Pyreneens de Ramond, , .8.ysoft ttle satisfaction,' 55 389 Tome I, 44 156 lite: Piz Palu, N. face, 43 385 La Montagne, 45 182 G. Scriv n, 44 113 Mol1t Blanc Sideshow, 46 242 Kangch njunga and Mt Everest, 45 166 Cas Monts affreux •.. , 48 431 Alois Pi ggera, 46 208 Alpinisme Anecdotique, 47 180 Berliner hut, 49 127 Voyage de Saussure horsdes Alpes, Capt. L. C. Bower, 63 73 48 376 the old oval hut, 53 269 Teohnique et Poesie de la Montague, r . of ell bs on Mont Blane, 42 372 48 388 Deutsch am Nanga Parbat, 47166 Saussure aux Alpes, 60 348 BUndne Alpen, Band IV, 47 389 Le Ruwenzori, 60 354 Auf Ku dfahrt im Himalajo" 60 158 High Conquest, 53 271 In the in and the Sun, &6 85 EaJ!ly American Ascents in the Alps, o it. of M imin Gaspard, 39 307 54 326 J. H. W 'newrlght, 40 153 Michel·Gabriel Paccard und der Mont· Christia Klueker, 41 198 blanc, 54 327 IH. z. To 'ng-Jettenbach, 41 399 obit., 65 299 H. T. M rshead, 43 351 port.,66296 General acquemot, 43 392 Stevenson·Moore, C. J.: obit., 56 174 J. W. H ley, 44 110 St.ewart, J. A.: 'A traverse of the Strahl. Joseph avanel,44 117 horn,' 57 222 ,H. G. B ke, 44 287 StiIioho, Flavius: itinerary in the Alps, rd Me huen,45 144 65 406-7 · W. shfield,46 166 Stimson, H. L. : · S. Ki g,46 176 elected hon. member of Alpine Club, rs. A. Blond, 46 382 53404 • M. Bel', 47 352 obit., 58 III ~ · O. Sc uster, 48 330 Stjernhodet (Lofoten): aso., 61 50-1 z. Co ,49 117 Stoehr, C. F.: death, 44 350, 46162 I'd Co way of Allington, 49 253 obit., 44 290 ~",J. M thersilI, 49 262 port.,45 163 .Wilso , 60 115 Stok, Mont: 67 181 Story, a famous Alpine (ich gehe nicht): g·· G.Yeld'~OBr ee,28052 105 &3 81, 175, 268 U. W. Watt, 52118 Strahan, Mt (Canada): 1st asc., 43 78, 168 tJIrich A mer, 52280 Strahlbett: by S. face, 41 416 '. e. Op enheim, 53 62 Strahlegg: cr., 63 140, 54 28 ~· N. Co 'e, 54 61

I 69

Strutt, E. L. : Switzerla~d: a 0 ntury ago, 54 175 obit. of E. R. Blanchet, 54 194- letters I from, 5 286, 53 171, 264, 393, Josef Pollinger, 54 296 54 2~' 66 21 ,223, 226 Aloia Pollinger, 55 307 Symonda .T.: • book: The Great Beast: E. H. 8revens, 66 300 the lif< of Aleia l' Crowley, 58 423 W. Williams, 56 69 C. R. Paravioini, 58 265 valedictory address, 50 I TABLE OUNTAI (S. AFRICA): o,scs., 13 eleoted hon. member of G.H.M., ·111220 390- eleoted hon. member of A.A.C.•.t S.A.C., & The electab 44 131 ill.,53 0 eleoted hon. member of C.A.I., 45 402 War Memori service on; 58 376 relinquishes editorship of Alpine .Tournal, TaouI, . uille du: ill., 49 9 49271 Taoul B sin, the: Dr. Paccard's explora. obit. & port., 68 396 tion f,49 1 Struve; K. C. P.: • Hill-roaming in Norway,' ill., 49 58 222 Tafonato Capo ( orsica): asc.,43 247 obit. of R. Workman, 57 4-09 ill., 43 48-9 A. M. Robinson, 67 562 Taghrat, j. (Atl ): aso., 46 113 Stubai Alps: 41 294 . Taillon, ~: aBC.,40 38 guide bool, & maps for, 41 303 ill.,40 0 Studer, B.: expeditions with J. D. Forbes, Tairraz, uguste: death, 60 148 54 383-4 Takht.i.S Ieiman Persia): attempt, 45 337, Studer, J. P.: obit., 58 266 4736 Studer, R. M.: obit. ofJ. P. Studer, 58 1st aBC.,3 49 245 . 266 group: Sturdee, Mt (N.Z.): aso., 42 348 clim Bin, 47 99 StutJ1eld, H. E. M.: obit. & port., 41 391 corr ponden re, 48 400 . Stutfield, Mt (Canada): 1st aso., 48 291 ill., 47 04-9, 4 246-7 Styles, S.: his book: A Climber in Wales, TiiJihorn by N. arete attained from W., 67119 60309 Suore, Pain de: by N. face, 50 305 Talleitspi ze: aBC 53 346 ill., 50 3()4...5 • Tanaka, .: hi book: Mountaineering, Slidlenzspitze (see Lenzspitze) 41241 Sugan (Cauoasus): ill.,42 285 Tangs, of S. Persi : 48 357 Sugan, Lit.tle: asc., 42 285 Tanner, • A. : Suganbashi (Caucasus): 1st aso., 48 107 his boo (editor: Zehn Jahre Bergfllhrer Sugantau (Cauoasus): 1st aao. by S. ar~to, Kine ar's' H 1'1',' 48 437 48106 Tarfalatj kko (La land): aBC.,50 253 Sugarloaf (Sikkim): attempts, 60 111-12, Taridalt ( oggar) tr., 58 271 13197,201 Tll.sohho : by l' ufelsgrat, 43 33, 57 175 Builven (Scotland): W. faoe, 46 261-2 by W. ace, 48 87, 47 155 Sulden: hotel book entries from, 58 128 byE.iloe,S3S 7 Sulzbach gI., Ober: ill., 47 324- S. face, 2nd asc. 47 362, 48 185 Summermatter, Johann: 53 12 3rd c., 54 3 , 395 obit., 58 268 4th c., 66 3 9 Sundt, E.: obit. of W. C. Slingsby, 41 383 by S.E. arete, 137 rev. of Tirich Mil' Til Topps, 58 151 ·Dom t ., 42 89, 55 6, 393 n. Supersaxo, Ambros: obit., 44 300 atte pted, 55 391 ports., 44 300, 54 123 ill., E. ce, 40 56 Supersaxo, Benedict: death, 54 80 S. fa e, 43 35, 54 308 Supersaxo, Oscar: obit., '65 99 from IAlphube , 42 91 Supersaxo, Othmar: death, 68 84 from ~en g~l.(1934 route), 47 154 Suphellenipa (Norway): asc., 47 275 Teuf1lsgrat, 34 8urkar Pass: 13 323 Taseko, t (Can It): 1st asc.• 47 290 Surlej, Piz: ski aIlC., 43 287 Tasman g . (N.Z.): accident: 1930: 42136 Surts-He1lir, Caves of (Iceland): 40 90 Tasman, t (N.Z.): history, 39266 Susadorf, L. (jr.): death,S3 169 1st tr., 165,2 8 Susten Pass: road commenced, 49 277 E. ridg ,1st asc , 43 398 Svartsundtind (Lofoten): asc., 51 52 N.ridg ,attem ,45305 Swachha.nd Pk. (Garhwal): 1st aso., 51 82 asc., 6208 Swan, F. E. L.: death,43 179,218 by E. i rib & Bt deBc., 51140 Swanzy Pk. (Canada): ill., 54 154-5 ill., S. r~dge, 39 65, 53 91 Sweden: 1928 season in, 40 405 W. ri~e, 39 2i 0 I I I 70 INDEX TO VOLUMlpJS 39 t9 58

Tasman, Mt (N.Z.): TeWn, Gran~: by E. ridge, 42267 ill., N. ridge, 39 271, 282 ilI , 42 268 E.face, 39 269 Ifromf N•. ,42267 from Dayid's Dome, 39 283 ~E' ridge 42 274 from Mt Cook, 50 221 Tet gona, t (I,abrador): asc., 46 31 N. & W. ridges, 45 307 Teu elsschlos (Greenland): 1st asc., 45 396, from The Anzacs, 41 312 4641 Tasmania: climbs in, & ill., 51 250,54 149 ',46 38 Tatham, M. : •Tallmania'smountains,' 51 250 Th atuwe S. Africa): 1st aso., 41 406 'From Norway to New Zealand,' 54 143 P . N. of, st asc., 41 406 Tatlow, Mt (Canada): 1st asc., 47 290 'I'he t, Gebe : aso., 42 232 Tatro. Mts: 47 310, 48 15, 54 360, 56 236 Thel>dulhom: tr., to Breuiljoch, 43 13 ill., 47 311-15, 48 16-17 Thepdule P : early crs., 46 147-9 Tatraspitze: asc., 47 314, 48 20 Thetcher gl. Himala,ya): ill., 40 30--1 Tattersall, E. S.: obit., 54 71 Theyta.z, Th phile: port., 51 314 Tatton, R. G.: death, 46 403, 47195 ThiljnblePk. (Canada): 1st aso., 43 170 Tauern, Hohe: climbs in, 48 61 Tho as, E.: 'Six years and the Four- accident: ]935: 47 152 Thousa ders,' 41 49 Taugwalder, Franziskus: death, 41 435 ' iguilles nd Dolomites,' 45 268 Taugwalder, Peter (jr.): Fiihrerbuch pre· Tho as, T.: death, 39 152 sented to A.C., 40 408 Tho pson, . E.: obit., 48 165 port., 39 154 Tho pson, ' M.: obit. & port., 45 147 Taugwalder, Peter (sr.): & the Matterhorn, Th pson, ; A.: obit. of C. M. Thompson, 55290 147 Whymper's story re, 57 108 son, D rby: body found, 40 195 Taylor,E. R.: obit. & port., 44 289 n, G : death, 53 264 Taylor, M. S. : T son, s. Roberts: death, 48 184 obit. of W. Bellows,54 72 Thorington, . Monroe: J. R. Jenkins, 68 174 'Climbs' the Forbes.Lyell and other Technicalities: 41 287 !groups f the Canadian Rockies,' 39 52 Teichelmann, E.: obit., 51 124 'I portr it medal of Conra.d Gesner,' port., 51 128 40 145 Teichelmann, Mt (N.Z.): Ist asc., 41236,310 'imler's" Vallesiae Descriptio et de ill., 41 312 Alpibus Commentarius." The history of Tekarra, Mt (Canada): asc., 55 66 the De hou copy,' 40 141 Teleccio,CoUe: cr., 48 186 ' he Jou nal of Mrs. M. Beaufoy,' 40 261 Tellersack, the (Styria): 44 250 ' ,arly as ents of Mont Blanc: ••Young Temple, Mt (Canado.): aso., 43 75, 55 69 Woodle ," 1788,' 43 308 Tennent, N.: •Greenland, 1950, Po.rt I,' 'limbs i the Freshfield and other groups 68 192 oHhe adian Rockies, 1930,' 43 75 Tenneverge, Corne Nord du Chamois de: • he Alp 1e mo.ps of Aegidius Tsohudi,' aBO.,41 412 46 146 Tent Pk. (Sikkim): Ist o.SO.,51 327 ' ont B nc : notes on early ascents,' 2nd Pk., 1st aso., 49 44 47 118 ill., 42 221, 49 48-9 ' . A. C pman,' 48 142 Teo, Pizzo del: by W. ridge, 43 377 '~he No h wing of the Columbio.group, Tepe, El (Bulgaria): 880., 46 398 Canadi n Rooky Mountains,' 48 290 Tepli group (Co.ucallus): climbing in, 48 94 ' Lo.Pie des Anglo.is,'48 140 Pt. 4014, 1st asc., 48 114 'fA note n the ,naming of Mt Robson,' ill., 48 96 I 48 322 Teplitau (Co.ucasus): 1st aso., & ill., 48 ] 15 'ISledginga Ill. Ro.masse,'53 59 Terminal Pk. (Co.nado.):ill., 57 516-17 'IDisto.nt ausine of the Abomino.bleSnow· Terminillo: asc., 56 114 : man,' S 76 Temyk Needle (King George Island): asc., 'IThe Ian slip on l\lout Gro.n1erin 1248,' 66. 57m ill., 58 73 ' Lncebell Hare and the St. Gervais Tete Co.rree: MO.,52 14 route t Mont Blanc,' 57462 Tetnuld (Caucasus): attempt, & accident, Albert Stnlth s Mont Blanc 1851-1951

Is:~~~ty N. face, 49 277, 50 30 : DS:ka~el: I~passive scie:tist,' 66 16:' tr., 43 400 '"JOhn A Idjo, fortunate traveller,' 66 ill., from Zanner gl., 41 167 ' 459 N. face (1937route), 49271 note: re erenoes to literature on Whym. E. fQ.CP"50 29 per's Canadio.nexpedition, 43 388 INDEX TO VOLUMES 39 to 1i8 71 Thorington, J. Monroe: Tilman, n.w. : , note: Mont Blanc, early American ascents, 'Lachs and thei Zemu Gap,' 50 271 45163 'Moun Everesll, 1938,' 513 lost mementoes of Albert Smith, 46 215 'Assa Himal~a unvisited,' 52 53 an early British accident in the Bemina, 'Zagh an by erey light,' 54 171 46 216 'Biaitu ,'5527 Dr. Barry's ascent of Mont Blanc, 47 369 'Stran e doings in the Dolomites,' 65 158 some early British climbers, 50 144 'Raka oslli,' 329 the ibex, 50 330 'More ews fro Ta.rtary,' 57184 from Chamonix, 50 331 , The epal Hi alaya,' 57 305 the marmot, 51145 , The napum Himal and South side of early dra,wings, 51 146 Ev t,' 58 01. Canadian notes, 52 141 note; 'ount erest, 1938, 60 323 youth and age on Mont Blanc, 54 79 his bo ks: Th Ascent of Nanda Devi, Governor Spotswood's Tram.ontane ex· 49292 pedition, 54 317 Sno onthe quator,50 153 the Columbia icefield, 58 290 Whe Men a d Mountains Meet, 55 431 Luc Meynet and the Matterhorn, 57421 Mou t Evere ,1938, 56 297 Mont Aiguille, 58 272 Two :Mount . s and a River, 57 428 his books: Mont Blanc Sideshow, 46 242 Chin to Chi a.l, 58 413 (editor): Where the Clouds can go, award dFound r's Medal ofR.G.S., 58532 47382 Timorio Punta:. 1st recorded asc., 58 261 (with H. Palmer) : A Climber's Guide to Tirich Mi" : reco aissanee, 57 256, 422, 571 the Rocky Mountains of Canada, histor ,58 4 43 205 1st ase, 58 6 A Climber's Guide to the Interior m., 47 '368, 48 28. 58 6, 7 Ranges of British Columhia, SO 164 Tirsuli P s.: 63 3 On Conrad Gesner and the Mountaineer- attern t on E. k., 53 44 ing of Theuetdank, SO 346 aocide t, 53 45 Early American Ascents in the Alps in ill., 53 the Nineteenth Century, 54 326 Titus: 0., 40 3 5 rev. of The Structure of the Alps, 40 210 1st asc by N. f1ce, 6481 The Sierra Nevada: Range of Light, Tiutiunt u (Caue us): 57120 1st . & tr. to Breithorn of Ulluauz, Au Royaume du Mont-Blanc, 57 590 4622 Of Men and Mountains, 58 277 identit of, 47 61 obit. of Conrad Kain, 46 195 m.,46 25.47 62 O. W. Holmes, 47 348 Tobin, H. W. : W. Williams. 66 68 note : ~ntema ional Himalayan gather- D. Underhill, 58 263 ing, 411 elected hon. member of Alpine Club, 65 426 Toby, M (Canad ): 1st tr., 40 383 Thornley,.r. W.: death,S8 126, 130 Toerring ettenb h, H.z.: obit., 41 399 Thorsmii.rk: ill., near, 40 89 Tofana d Rocces MCS.,46 327 Three Thousanders, British: ascS., 41 229 ill.,46 27 Throne, Mt (Canada): lst MC., 40 196 Toluca, evado d (Mexico): aso., 45 94 Thumb Pk. (Canada): 1st asc., 40383, 41353 'fominse , S. : 1st asO.from N., 43 259 •The .W. fa e of the Skrlatica in the Thunderbolt (Canada): ski MC., 56 40 .Tuli n Alps,' 1 75 Thurwieserspitze: asc., 53 352 Tondu, t: ascs. SO 193, 52 13 attempt by N. face, 63 347 Tongarir (N.?:.); ill., 4996-7 Thyrill, Mt (Iceland): ill., 40 95 Tonsber H.: 0 it. of W. C. Slingsby, 41 Tiedrnann, Mt (Canada): .ill, 47 292-3 383 Tiefenstock: by N.E. face, 48 176 Tops of ill., N.E. fuce (1935 route), 48 176-7 Torelli, ta: 1st inter aso., 60 321 Tigmal (Hoggar): MC., 58 271 Torngat ts (La. ador): 46 28 Tignes: ill., 57 148 Toro, Pi 0 del (A dos): 1st aso. by E. ridge, Tiktl'ngen (Caucasus): attempt, 42 347 58135 1st MO.by W. arete & 1st tr., 48 362, 49 79 Torres, t (N.Z.): 2nd asc., 39 168, 284 Tilly, C. S.: 'The Brenva Face (2),' 5&298 Torrone, Ago del 1st Me., 55 13-14 Tilly, T. H.: 'An ascent of Chomiomo,' ill., 55 9 56340 Torrone riental : 55 13 TiIlye: port., 52 46 aso., 127 Tilman, H. W. : ill., 55.9 I , The ascent of Nanda Devi,' 49 13 Tos (KulU): ill., ~3 328-9 72 , Toan.,Cima: from N., 1st recorded aae., 42 115 Tdmbolacc a, Cirque de (Corsioa): ill., Me., 46 323. 45142 Tot Tau (Caueaaus): 1st aae., 41 167 Trtolet, Aig ille de: from Mt Dolent, 42 106 Toubkal, Dj. (Atlas): asea., 40 228, 45 107, ht ase. N. face, 44 312 111 .oeident 1938: SO 334 ill., 45 96, 116 1.,N. fa e,40 146, (1931 route) 44 312 Toubkltl·0uenkrhn Maaaif (Morocco) : 40 224 T sui: 64 66-70 Tonie, Aiguille de: tr., 45 236 1nd aBO., 5400,46 142 Tour, Aiguille du:- aae., 48 137 'so., 58 20 Tour, Cot du: cr., 64 259 . 1.,40 281, 46 142, 54 168, 55 376-7 Tour d'EntrElVea: variation on, 66 404 Tr lltind (~orway): aso., 56 369 Tour, La (King George Island): ase., 58 71 Tour Noir: aaea., 41 36, 43 129 tr., 53254 ill., 51 112 T,~~rf.§.·l~~37~:M';_'" Tour Noir, Col du: cr., 39 40 4S 332 ill., 3944 st aBc., 370 Tour Ronde, Col Eat de la: cr., 53 101 ccidellt: 1934: 46 371 Tour Ronde: new deac., 53 109 ttemPts~46 370 Tower Pk. (Labrador): asc., 46 32 . ,,45 33 -3, 46 370-4 Tozat, Mt (N. Africa): 1st MC., 50 138 l' ,a:r, Mt ( lana~a): aso., 67 508 " ill.,50 140 bmasoa gl.: ill., pks. at head of, 41 370 Trafoier Eiswand: by N. face, 53 352 Tr gberg: 1;1'., SO 312·

Tragta (Lofoten): (see Rorhoptind, Store) 1'1' fan: 631119 Traills Pass (Himalaya): cr., 40 33 coident: 1935: 47 153 ill., 40 37 il.,53 12 Training: effects due to rarity of air when, Ts ,Aiguill de la : 48 137 coident I ] 939: 51 341 Trango g\. (Karakorum)': ill., 50 34 c., 53 3 5, 66 134 Traunta.rovM, Piz: aki Me., 43 285 by the salion rib, 51 134 Travers.Jaokson, G. F.: port., 66 375 Ts harner, . B. von: poem on the Bernina, Traversette, Pertuia de 10,: history, 54 140 408 Trelatllte, Aiguilles de: asc., 41 36 Ts hingel( oolidge's dog): ill., 51 260 N. Aig.: 1st MC. by S. face, 45 405 Ts hingelgr t: by N. face, 47146 TrelatOte, Col de: cr., 41 36 Ts hingelho rner: ill., 43 128 Tremoggia, Piz: accident: 1931: 43 412 Ta hingello htighorn: aso. & ill., 49 172 Tre Pietre, Mte: MC., 58 524 '1's hingelsp tz: aBe" 47 146 TrP..s,Torre de (Corsioa): 1st MC., 40 174 Ts opi.Kall i (Andes): 1st aBC.,45 4J Trezuhetz (Caucasus): lat asc., 50 21 i .,4539 ill., GO 20 Ts hudi, A dius: Alpine maps of, 46 146 Tribe, W. N.: obit. & port., 40 366 Ts humurts herall Tau (CaUOMtls): highest Tribulll>unKamm: 41 299 k., 1st 0.,41 167 Tn'bulaun, Ptlerscher: new route on, 40 185 Ts pan Kh kh (Cauoasus): attempt, 48 90 aBc.,41 299 Ts gitaka ( ormoaa): 46 329, 331 by E. arete, 63 344 Tu by, A... : obit. & port., 42 98 Tribulazione, Becchi della : Tu ker, G. D. R.: poem: E. Tellebris, Central pk., asc., 48 187 66168 Trident Ridge: ill., 40 45 bit.,68 18 Trier, F. N.: obit., 58396 Tu ker, H .. : death, 55 100, 120 Triftjoch: use of abandoned, 53 12 Tu kett, F. F.: 55·135,429 Triglav: rly tra ela in Graians, 56 256 asc., 58 380 Tu , Colle d 1: 1st tourist or., 58 261 N. face: attempt, 39 332 Tn , Pta de : 1st aBe.,48 186 Diagonal route, 39 333 Tu bel' Paas (Oauoasus): cr.,41168 Bl1yerlander Weg, 39 333 Tu alatau ( auoasus): S. pk., 1st aBC.,48110 by attempted • Jug' route, 43 379 l' a,H.: Black Gully route, 42 78 is book Pomen in Razvoj Alpinizma, Buttress route, 42 84 44149 II Central route, 39 137 TU~iSia: 01mbing in, 64171, 57545 Slovene route, 39 136, 49 105, 50 92 Tu. per, l\it Canada): 1st tr. by S.S.E. & W. winter aBC.,51 243 ridges, 265, 268 I ill.,N. face, 39136, 138,42 78, 80, 85,51244 so.,54 1 routes up W. wing of, 43 379 .. , 43 26 ,54 154 from S., 5091 Tufper.Car 'Y,A. D.: dea.th, 64 200, 213 I

INDEX TO VOLUMES ~9to 58 ! 73 I Turc, Joseph: obit., 53 384 Tyndall, (Pic: bYj'S.face, 53 387 Tur Khokh (Caucasus): 1st asc. by S. ridgc, Tyrol: c~mbs in outh, 46 320 48Il5 foul pi Y in, 58 538 TUl'kistall, glaciers of: 41 266 Tzashiu II. (Cauc us): ill., 48 98 Turnbull, H. W.: 'My friends, the moun- tains,' 56 23 obit. of R. C. G. Moggridge, 55 423 Turner, .T. W. M. (artist): 6644 UBINA, NA(Sp IN): asc., 44 228 Turner, S.: obit., 41 402 Uja Tirc Ie (Him yas): 1st asc., & ill., Turnerkampf: ill., 48 64--5 5856-- Turet, Iln (Jura): asc., 45 9 Ullarg okh (C ucasus): by N.E. ridge, Turret, Mt (Canada): 1st asc., 40 196 48115 Tusse Casteret (Caucasus): asc.,47 109 Ullman, . R. : '' Tutoko (N.Z.): ascs., 1st & 2nd, 44 143 his bo s: Hi the Story of by a new route, 48 188 M untain ring, 63 271 1st MO. by S. arete, 68 2] 7 Tutton, A. E. H. : rev. of Tectonic Essays. mainly Alpine, :~~1 ~~:eo;~::~~n::::c;sm~::::: ,67 48 201 fil ed,57 70 Snow Structure and Ski Fields, 48 380 Ulluauz reithor (Caucasus): ill., 48 225 Mountain Geography, 49 288 Ulluauz ass: cr. 47162 obit., 50 295 Ulrichsh rn: ill., 1 324 Tvilisis (Caucasus): asc., 48 116 Ultima, a: ill., 45 365 Twecdsmuir, Lord: obit. & port., 62 122 Ultrama gne, La e: ill., 42 43 Twins, the (Kangchenjunga): attempts, Uma.nak Greenla d): 1st asc., 41 428 4944,51327 attem ,58 I9 ill.,60 IlO ill., 68 194 Twist Lake: ill., 47 292-3 Umm Sh mer, Ge I (Egypt): asc., 42 233 Twynam, H. J.: obit. of C. J. Stevenson- Umzimk lu Valle (S. Mrica): pk. at head Moore,56 174 of, 1st SC., 41 6 Tyler, J. E.: his book: The Alpine Pa.sses Underhil , D.: 0 it., 58 263 (Middle Ages), 43 194 Underh' , M. E. 'Sampling the Eastern Tyndale, H. E. G.: AlPS,'! 74 , First affections,' 63 302 Underhi ,R. L.. :' The Grand Teton by 'Second thoughts,' 661 the ast ridg " 42 267 his book; Mountain Paths, 66 409 note: I the S· one-Torrone-Rasica tra- rev. of The Romance of Mountaincering, vers ,45160 47174 Unna, P J. H.: 'Avala,nche days in the Die Weisse Kordillere, 48 190 Ohalulztal,' 7 322 Damon Himalaya, 48 192 , Rope Ifor mou taineering,' 58 76 Anton Oitzinger: ein Bergfiihrerleben, , Fuels for mon tain cooking,' 58 5U 48194 note: odat olomieu: 57 421 The Spirit of the Hills, 48 197 rev. 0 Snow tructure a,nd Ski Fields, Urn den Gipfel del' Welt, 48 386 48 383 Vom Mont Blanc zum Wilden Kaiser, The ,airngor 49138 obit. 0 W. A. Wie anders ist das Besteigen del' Alpen obit,., 8 liB geworden! 49 297 Unna,m Peaks let asOo, 43 Willy Merkl :ein Weg zum Nanga Parbat, 267-8, 49299 Unterbii~' horn: I., 43 56 ' obit. of M. R. C. Overton, 52 279 Untermii chjoch: ill., 52 127 C. H. Powell, 54 290 Unwin, ancia ( pine artist): 56 43, 57 96 J. Kugy, 54293 Unwin, t (Ca,n a.): ill., 41 350, 42 36 W. T. Lister, 54 433 Unwin, . F.: d th, 47148, 196 appointed Editor of Alpine Journal, 49 271 Upernivi Island 58 202 tribute to, 66 315, 67 95 . Ura.mats , S.: The S.W. a.rl!te of the obit. & port., 66 386 Wette om, 42 260 Tyndale-Bisooe, G. W. T.: Urnedals a,rte (N a,y): ill., 58 222 , Dr. Neve's visit to the Mushik I.a, ]895,' Urquha. ,F. F.: dea,th, 46 407 6666 Urziwa . Pass ( aucasus): cr., 42 280 Tyndall, J.: 54 379, 381-2 Ushba ( ucasus): memorial insoription, 54 440 attem s, 41 1 7, 42 347, 47 368, 48 112, on Mt. Blanc, 65 126 502 & Penicillin, 58 536 height, 48 117 ~., 60 7

I I 74 INDEX TO VOLUMES 39 t~ 58 I Ushba (Caucasus): Vel4>u,Mt~. sc., 56 129 2nd tr., 48 117 .. , 53 1 mountain wall of, 58 256 ve!ta, Pica ho de la (Spain): asc., 4041 S. Pk., ascs., 42116,45 397, 46 366-9 il ., 39 28 1st by W. face, 49 85 ve~ digcr, ross: asc., 48 62 1st by S.E. ridge & E. face, 50 28 a a ski t r, 47 322 ill., 46 364-9,49276-7,5028 i .,4732 5 Uto Section, S.A.C.: Ve ezuela ( e also Special List), 52 70. 53 book: 'l'he Technique of Alpine Moun- ,127 taineering, 48 207 i ., rots 0 , 5270-85,53130-1 Ve getind, tore: asc., 56 371 Ver 'ne, La aso., 55 18 VAAGEKALLEN(LOFOTEN): asc., 43 271, Ver et, C.: obit. of C. Gos, 57 235 51 60 Ver et, J.: his book: Au Coourdes Alpes, Vail, E. L.: death,47 148, 196 280 ' Vajolettiirme: asc., 45 272, 46 325, 51 34, Ve on, R.• : death, 54 77, 95 5324 Ver choyle, . S.: obit., 44 296 ill., 45 270 Ve hambek Mt (Lazistan): ascs., 44 333, Valentine.Richards, A. V.: obit. & port., 299 45 346 tanklah I'n: asc., 56 362 Valettina, Cima della: 1st asc. by N. face, e, Aig lle: accidents: 1928: 40 419 43 361 1931: 43 407 Valletta, Colle: 1st tourist cr.• 68 261 cs., by .E. face, '41430,44 331, 45 161 Vallot, C. : by S.W arete, 40 391, 41 37 his books: Saussure aux Alpes, 50348 : from guille du Jardin, 39 143, 52 139 (with C. E. Engel) : Tableau litteraire du i, winter, 3 138 Massifdu Mont Blanc, 42 367 llftempts Birkbeck (1864),44 331 CesMonts all'reux, 46 431 i probab 1st, 63 47 elected hOll.member of Alpine Club,41 220 £ rIDerno, e, 41 114 n., 49 4 n. awarded Croix de Ill. Legion d'Honneur, .E. face: supposed (1875)asc., 42 123 43 185 involun ary desc., 44 337, 45 163 Vallugl\: accident: 1927: 39171 . face, 1 t·desc.,66 108 Valpelline,Tete de: asc.,43 35 .,5030 ,52227,5318 Valtournanche: early visits to, 56 294 i .,5222 Vampire, Mt (N.Z.): 1st asc. by E. ridge, Ve lepiggen (Norway): asc., 68 222 48 281 Ve to, La: ar-time experiences on, 55 158 Vancouver, Mt (Alaska): 1st asC.,57 484 Vi, A. E•. : his book: Alpine Glaciers, ill., 57 484-5 429 . Vancouver (N.Z.): asc. & tr., to Dampier, Vi nin, Jos ph: his livret de guide, 57 61 57 538 Vi ·Presid nt, Mt (Canada): asc., 54 401 Vandeleur, C. R. P.: 'A view hunter in Vi oria gJ. Canada): retl'eat of, 44 267. I. Norway,' SG 364 '1.,4426 ,268 • High mountain walls,' 67 187, 58 256 Vi OOria,M (Canada): ascs., 46 83-4, 55 65 , The love of mountains,' 68 505 Vi dal, Joh nnes H.: obit., 42 100 Vanoise, Aigui1lede 10.: asc.,44 202 Vi nemale: desc. by Couloir de Gaube, ill., 44 203 280 Val'dy, J. A.; death, 54 437, 455 V' erSPitzieI ROhe.: 1st asc., 41 299 n. Vareschi, V. : ., 53 34 n. his book (with Krause, E.): Mountains in Vi sha: .. , 46 3QO Flower, 52156 Vi ey, E.: rev. of Over Lakeland Fells, Vatnajokull (Iceland): 48 267, 263 415 bibliography, 48 275 V· 'glio, A. I his book: Jean Antoine Carrel, ill., 48 268-9 117 I Vaulion, Dent de: Goethe'sasc., 53 368 Vi 0 Valley Pks. (Corsica): 39292 Vazzeda, Cima de: asc.,66 13 Vi 0, Mte: asc.,54 141 by N,W. face & S.W. arilte, 40 169 st asc. W.N.W. face, 43 355 tr., 48 63 st comp ete circuit of, 54 376 ill., 49 169 V· olotoo: y N. face, 52 138 Veazey, H. G.: his book: The Epic of V· ser, P.• : Adelboden,68 150 is book with J, Visser-Hooft): Scientific obit., sa 264 Result of the Dutch Expedition to the Vedinkot gl. (Chitral): & ill., 47 101 Karak ram. Volume II. Glaciology, Veisivl, Dents de: Grande, tr., 53307 51 152 Petite, asc., 53 304 !/-warded ack Grant of R.G.S., 41 424 75

Visser.Hooft, J. (!I:ladame): WandflulIhorn: Iby Mayer.Dibona route, her book: Among the Kara·Koram 58523 I Glaciers in 1925, 39 186 wanneh~n, Gros~: by S.W. arete, 43 376, death, 61 329 52 Vitosha, Mt (Bulgaria): 46 301 ill, f m S.W. 1931 route), 43 373 annual ma.ss asc., 46 302 Wanneh rn, Klei : by S.E. face, 47 364 Vologata (Caucasus): 1st aso. by N. face, Ward, . 0.: 001 de la Brenva: the 47112 , Aigqille de chaux,' 40 45 Vysoka, Kleine (Tatra): by N. arete, 48 16 obit. o~ G. E. ask, 68 112 Vyvyan, M.: 'A Journey in the Western Warren, !C. B.. :' The Gangotri glacier Karakoram,' 51 231 and~I.eo Par ial,' 46 306 'Mou tain·sic ess and the physiological pro lems of igh altitude mountaineer· ing, 51 271, WAAmOCHIPx. (S. AFRIOA): ill., 49 234-5 rev. 0 Let's go Climbing, 53 276 Waddington, Mt : obit. o~C. Kir us, 64 313 accident, 47 83, 299 Warren;¥.t «(',ana a): 1st asc., 40 383,41349 attempts, 40 99, 47 83, 297-9 ill.,411350 historical notes, 40197,414 Warren, ,R. H. :f,bit., 53 378 official name, 40 99 Warren, IMrs. W' 'am: death,51 326 N.W. Pk.: 1st asc., 40 415, 41 160 Washbwtn, B.: 'The ascent of Mt Lucania,' 2nd asc., 47 297 3rd asc., 47 299 n. • :~~cent O~fount St. Agnes, Chuga.ch S.E. (highest) Pk.: lilt aso., 48 360, 49 Ra e, Alas ' 51 207 49 his bo k: Am ng the Alps with Bradford, ill., from S.W., 40 100 40~2 . S.W. face, 49 53 award d the uthbert Peek Grant of from Mt Chris Spencer, 41 165 R.O S., 50 3 7 ' from Franklin gl., 4780-1 Watersh Pk. ( eshfleld Group, Rockies): from Ioefall Pt., 49 52 1at as ., 43 168 various, 47 78, 292-3, 296-7,4954-5 Watkins H. G.! 'The British Arctic Air Wager, L. R. : Ro Expo 'tion,' 44 177 note: E. J. Garwood, 67 418 award Foun er's Medal ofR.G.S., 44 140 awarded Back Grant ofR.G.S., 50 317 obit. port., 294 awarded Spendia.rov Prize, 57 96 Watkins Mts (G eenland): climbs in, 48 40 Wainewright, J. H.: obit. & port., 40151 ill., 48 48-9 ! . Wakefield, A. W.: obit., 67 408 Watson, B. W.: !Oblt.,64 192 Wales, North: hydro·electrio schemes for, Watts, . H. ~: obit. of Count A. de 67 101 Suzan et, 68 1 5 rock climbing in, 63 115 Watzm : E. e, asos., 47 344, 50 85 Walker, C. W.: obit. of H. F. B. Sharp, in win/>er,43 1 0 50133 & ~cidents, 47 151, 49 124 Walker, F. B. D.: obit., 55 94 tr., 5~1345 Walker, Horaoe: initials on the Gemmi Weckert, W.: • the Swiss Caucasus oxpedi. route,56 102 tion,' , 360 I , ' Walker, J. C.: obit.,64 193 Wedder urn, E .. M.: obIt., 66 90 Walker, J. H.: ilis book: WA.lkingin the port., 589 , Alps, 68 287 Wedge k. (Can ): 1st asc., 43 261, 267 Walker, J. M. S.: obit. of J. O. Walker, Wedge k. (Him layas): 1st asc., 51327 64193 Wegene G.: hi book: Das Gastgeschenk, Walker, J. 0.: obit. ofR. S. Low, 58399 SO 34 Christian Almer III, 43 353 Weisse rau: as ., 54 25 Walker, Lucy: 64 57-8 S. fac~ history 47 89 Waller, H.: obit. of O. Bloch, 56 98 ill., 43 133, 47 46 Waller, J.: 'Masherbrum, 1938,' 50 199 vie from, Ii 101 his book: The Everlasting Hills; 52 154 Weissho n: letter: from the Western Desert, 63 395 a.ccide t: 193 : 45 413 Walter, Mt (N.Z.): tr., 39 342 , 194: 67257 Walton, W.lI, M.: 'Some notes on climbing ascs.,4156 in Formoll8,,' 46 328 by tS.E. fa ,SO 136, 53 298 , Ontake, the Sacred Peak,' 58 234 by ,W. rid 0, 50 320, 68 261, 472 his book: Scrambles in Japan and 1st . om SCh;lIenberg gl., 67 526 Formosa,. 47. HI9 1st , inter, Ii 535 Wandel Land (Greenland): asc., 47 53 attempt, 58 46 76

I Weisshorn: Wetterhorn ~ tr. by N. & S.W. ridges, 40 392, 41 47 i~., N. fa4e (1928 & 1924 routes), 41 211 by S.W. & N. ridges, 53 7B, 67 ]74 . S.W. arete, 42 260 by E. & N. ridges, 66 8, 68 466 We~terhorn,1Scheidegg : ill., 41 47,68472 . If.W. fa~: 1st asc., 41 404, 42 1 Weiaskugel: 40 298 ! ascs., as 202, 50 312, 53 300, 55 324, 428 ascs., 48 61,63 346 I historyT 42 13 iII., 40 296 41., N.W. face (1929 route), 41 405, 424, Weissmies: deso. by N. ridge, 40 391i 7,9 desc. by E. face, 43 373, 52 64 fromN, 42 6 lISo., 50 192 N.W. fi ce (1930 route), 43 176,46 203 ill., E. face, 40 395 W terspitz, Mittlere: 1st asc. by N. face, (19Bl & other routes), 43 374 9 151 Weisstor, Neu: cr., 53 286 Walley, T. S.: travels in the Graians, 66 56 Welcome, Mt (Canada): 1st aso., 41 238 W ee1er, A. O. : Weld, C.: early travels in Graians, 68 253 'Retreat of the ice in the Canadian Wellenkuppe : Cordill ra,' 44 263 asc.,58 135 bit. of A A.McCoubrey, 53 382 1st., 41 227,51 332 bit. & rt., 56 205 1st by N.E. face, 48200 W elan, P.S.: obit., 54 68 by N.W. face, 42 126 Werry, G. E.: obit. & port., 41 190 dese. by N. ridge, 42 126 W 'te Pk. ( ikkim): 1st aso., 49 48 tr., 43 9, 44 204 W ite Sail k. (Kulu)~ 1st aso., 63 329 Welligl1at: tr., & ill., 44 61 .. ,6332 -9 Wells, E. G.: obit., 68 526 W 'te-Tho son, C. R.: death, 46 414 Welzenbach, W.: tribute to, 47156 bit,,46 90 Wengem Alp: 1st cr., 40 272 n. W itetip, t (Canada): aso., 41 162 ill., 40 265 . W 'tney, t (California): 46 90, 95 Wenhwm, C. H.: death, 49 121 eight,4 432 West Alpen Club: book: Bergkameraden, story, 334 52290 , ., 41 32 , 334-5 West, W. C.: 'The Mountain Club of South W 'tting, • G.: obit. & port., 60 128 Africa,' 58 373 W ymper, .: note: Cedarbergen group, 64 315 , an inte sting sidelight,' 46 164 port., 58 375 rtraits f, 53 156 Westem, G. T.: death, 66403 gain,53 862 Westmorland, H.: 'Wartime climbs in Mum ry, 67 339 Canada,' &565 Dr. Pa ard, 41 101 rev. of Climber's Guide to Cascade and suppa 1st aso. of Grand Cornier, Olympic Mountains of Washington, 41226 51270 is grave 42343 . port., 63 377 is dang ter's tr. of Matterhorn, 42 338 Westall, W.: note: Fuji-San, 42 129 ten ,52283 obit. ofF. C. Bainbridge-Bell, 40 365 a mo tain prophet, 54 102 T. C. Fry, 42 97 the Ta gwa,lders, 56 290, 67 108 G. F. Browne, 42295 ills. fa 'Sorambles,' 57 369 W. G. Edwards, 48 165 Girdl tone, 57 370 memorial tablet erected by Japanese A.C., is boo : Scrambles amongst the Alps, 50 325 491 6 . il1., 50 319 Trave amongst the Great Andes, 57431 obit. & port., 52 271 W yte, Mt (Canada): asc., 56 67 Wetterhom: Wen, K.: 'The disaster on Nanga Parbat, early ases., 56 82, 68 496 1937,' 9213 Speer's reputed 1843 attempt, 68 536 is Nang Parbat diary, 49 219 ases., 1st of 3 pks. in 1 day, 63 188 bit. & rt., 49 265 1st by S.W. ar6te, 40 880, 42 260 W esbaehh rn: Gross: by N.E. face, 41210,56 324 ecident 1932: 44 348 by N.W. face & ar~te, 43 175 0.,63 50 C. Wilson's, 49 170 1st fro N., 49 281 tr.,47154 ., N.W faoe, 44 348 by N. face, N.E. & S.W. aretes, 46 203 Wessner, • H.: 'The first ascent of Mount iIl.,42259 addinrdion,' 49 49 1928 route, 40 380 W ner, J:1H.: obit. of W. T. Kirkpatrick, 1902 route, 40 381 160 I INDEX TO VOLUMES 39 jta 68 77

Wigram, A. F.: obit., 63 383 Wigr&m, E. H. L.: note: Mountain resoue, 55 193 obit. of A. F. Wigram, 53 383 obit., 65 304 port., 55 297 Wilberforoe, J•. R. : obit. of R. T. Glazebrook, 48 158 obit., 64 4.14 . Wiloox Head (Greenland): asc., 47 54 Wilcox, Mt (Oanada. ): asc., 66 67 Wilczek Pk. (N.Z.): 43 82 1st asc., 48 357, 405, 49 91 ill., 49 96-7 Wilde Leck: ill., 41 298 Wilder Freiger: tr.,41 295 Wilder Pfaff: by E. arete, 41 296 ill., 41 299 Wildhorn: ski asc., 64 251 Wildspitze, Oetztaler: aBC.,48 60, 63 344 ill., 48 60 Wildspitze, Stubaier: tr., 53 346 Wildstrubel: 8.8c.,43 134 Willdnson, J. L.: travels in the Graians, 5660 Williams, R.: obit., 54 78 Williams, W.: elected hon. member of Alpine Club, 49 271 obit., 68 68 Williams, W. J.: obit. of R. Williams, 64 78 obit., 67 558 Williamson, O. K.: • Notes on the East fMe routes of the Dom,' 40 852 , The first ascents of the Hohberghorn and Stecknadelhorn from the Ried glacier,' 41316 , Mountain walks in Majorca,' 60 239 note: Nadelgrat, 1936,49 128 on effects due to rarity of the air when training, 48 137 obIt. of A. J. Clark, 63 164 elected hon. member of Mountain Club of S. Africa, 46 220 obit., 63 261 port., 53 259 Willink, II. G.: note: the late Mr. Arnold Mumm, 40 399 obit. of D. W. Freshfield, 46 172 G. E. Maude, 46178 watercoleur drawing reproduced, 60 189 obit. & port., 60 283 . Wills, A.: 64 101 Wills·Norton family: & the Eagle's Nest, 48324 Wills, W. A.: port., 60 124 . Wilson, C.: 'The Aiguilles d'Arves,' 40 12 'Accidents,' 44 28 'The Wills·Norton family of the Eagle's Nest,' 48 324 'Climbing in the Sixties and the Seven· ties,' 49167 note: the Jungfraujoch, 40 188 the Southern Aiguille d'Arves, 41 371 1 78 INDEX TO VOLUJ!E839 tl> 58

1

Wood, W. A.: 'The ascent of Mt Steele,' Yeltl, G. : 1 48 81 obit.ofD W. Freshfield. 46 172 'Shiva Temple and Wotan's Throne, ~s remini cenoes of G. Bobba, 48 186 Grand Canyon, 1937,' 50 257 fin~~yy.ear a member of the Alpine Club, 'The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, 40179 Columbia,' 52 243 01 it. & rt., 50 279 obit. of Harrison Wood, 50 299 Yithmid, G bel (Egypt): aso., 42 233 Woodroffe, G. F.: obit. of H. Cockburn, Y~isfjell ( orway): asc., 68 222 48 156 YolilOgl. (C ada): retreat of, 44 269 death, 50 142 i ., 44 26 , 270 Wolley; Mt: 2nd asc., 48 294 Yo emite N tional Park: as a mountaineer- Wordie, J. M.: 'Climbing in Greenland, i g cent ,4697 Petermann Peak,' 42 241 Yo ng, Sir G.: death, 42 343 rev. of Two Men in the Antarctic, 52 291 Yo ng, G. t.: obit. of H. G. Watkins, 44 294 'Should the Mountain be brought to awarded Founder's Medal ofR.G.S., 45402 Mahom t?' 52172 awarded Charles P. Daly Gold Medal of 'Mounta' Prophets,' 54 97 American G.S., 58 532 ote 1 a cents from Montenvers, 1929, WordswOl'ths,the: & Switzerland, 54 282 41 4 0 Workman, R.: obit. & port., 57 409 Tltsehh rn, S. face, 48 185,54 308 Workman, W. Hunter: obit., 50 290 conce g a misprint, 51 147 port., 50 289 two m untaineenng ladies, 56 184 WortWngton, A. H.: death, 53 169 I is books:· On High Hills, 39174 Worthington, W. B.: death, 52 283 Mount ins with a Difference,58 414 Wotan's Throne (Colorado): 50257 Mount' Craft, 57274 Wright of Durley, Lord: obit. of F. ev. of G rge Leigh Mallory. A Memoir, Pollock,49108 ! 393 5 Wright, C. E. I.: 'Knots for Climbers,' , Passio des Hautes Cimes, 55 326 40 120, 340' bit. of J P. Farrar, 41 186 Wright, H. F.: obit., 51 309 G. E. herry,41 190 port., 51 307 W. C. lingsby,41 389 Wright, J.E. B.: his book: Mountain Days C. M. athews,41 395 in the Isle of Skye, 46 435 Franz .ochmatter, 45 355 Wright, Mt (N.Z.): Istasc., 44.t42 Laurel CrouK,51 128 Wright, W. A.: death, 43 381, 44 178 J. N. ollie, 54 62 Wund, T. von: death,41 425 F. Yo ghusband, 54 67 Wyatt, C. W.: 'The Zillertal Alps,' 48 66 D. Lei hOOn,54 203 'Ski-mountaineering in New Zealand,' A. Car 011 Roberts, 65 95 4987 W. P. askett-Smith,55 416 'On ski through Arctic Lapland to the J. E .. Barford, S6 179 North Cape,' 50 248 M. B. eywood, 56 279 'The Alpine Club Photographic F..xhibi· Lord esborough, 58 395 tion, 1951,' 68 887 . C. Gas 57 237 Wyatt, J. W.: 'The Stubai Alps, Tyrol,' Albert Hopkinson, 67 414 41 294 , Count . de Suzannet, 68 114 , The Ennstaler Alps, Styria,' 44 245 ! A. P. braham, 68404 obit. of C. H. Brook, 61 306 hledic address, 54 215 obit. & port., 52 118 lect,edh n. member of G.H.M., 39 155 Wylie, C. G.: 'A long day on Piz Palii,' 57 63 warded Hon. D.Litt. (Durham), 57 566 Wyss, E.: his book: L'Appel des Som- eives Heinemann Literary Award, & mets, 44 158 elee Fellow of the Royal Literary Societ , 58 532 Y ung, P (Grandes Jorasses): aso., 53 17 Y.urn·Su CONGLOlltERATES:ill., 61 32 Y unghus and, F.: note: Shaksgam Sur· Yana-Raju (Andes): attempt, 45 37 ey Part, 1926,39241 Yardley, R. B. : obit. ofR. F. Norton, 41394 tho 8h ksgam valley, 41 429 Yasin~Northern: passes in, 47 316 the la e Dalai Lama, 46 217 Yeld, G.: poem: Kamet, 49 241 is boo : The Experiences of an Ex· rev. of The Hills of Peace, 43 204 pl0 r, 39 359 Diary of a Scotch Gardener at the . Evere t: the Chal1enge,48 205 French Court at the end of the ~ev. of lack River of Tibet, 50 351 Eighteenth century, 44 152 ~obit.& ~ort., 54 65 obit. of J. P. Farrar, 41 176 Y~goslavi ,68 379 A. Payot,44 298 Yjlkon (se .Special Ust) iNDEX TO VOLUMES 39:to 58 79

ZAGHOUA:N(TU:NISIA):asc., 54 171, 57545 Zillertal Alps: 48 6 Zanner Pass (Caucasus): cr., 46 364-5, Zillertal ~rqup: ill. 40 298 47 116, 49 80, 50 32 z!mbasPltl: aso., 3 343 Zarra Raju (Andes): ill., E. Pk., 45 43 Zmal, Col e: or., 3392 Zaskar Pa.~s(Garhwal): 1st cr., 60 71 Zinal, Ptc e: tr., 477 Zdarsky, M.: appreciation of, 61 38 Zina! Rothprn (see othorn, Zinal) port., 51 37 Zinnen, Dr~i: (see avaredo, Tre Cime di) death, 62 285 Zocoa, Piz ~Mte di) Zebru, Gran (see Konigsspitze) 1st asc. ~y S. foo , 41 211 Zej gl. (Caucasus): 48 88 by N.W.lface, 48 65 Zej range: 48 92 ill., 43 3~0' 48 63 Zemu Gap (Sikkim) : reached,39 161,60113, Zocca, For 010, di: lill., 48 63 63203 Zubkn. (Co, cn.sus):~asc.• 60 18 Boustcad's expedition, 39 161 ZUCkerhii~t: asc., 3 344 cr., 60274 ill., 40 2 9, 41 29 Zemu 'gl.: winter expedition to, 63 194 Zugspitze: aso., 6 341-2 Zermatt: to Chamonix via Mt Blanc, 48 181, Zupo, Piz aac., 4 62 404 ill., 43 3 news from (1940),62286 Z~brigg, , "",J, • tho ••• of Aoon· in 1943, 64 200 oagun., 330 ! in 1951, 68 274 zuroher,~.: accid~nt, 53265 ill., valley of (Sir J. Herschel's drawing), asc. of is 250th j' viertausender,' 55 103 67303 Zurnngal ( aucasu,): 1st asc., 48 107 Zillertal: ill., 48 253 ill., 47 1~9 80 INDEX TO VOLUMES 39 58

SPECIA]~ DI Tl{ CTS

AFRICA 1. central Mt Kenya. By P. Wyn Harris, 41 362 The first traverse of the Twin Peaks of Mt Kenya. By E .• Shipton, 43 138 A climb on Mt Kenya, February, 1941. By Lord • Doug .Hamilton, 53 215 Kenya and Ruwenzori. By R. A. Hodgkin, 53 309 Mt Kenya--fil'St ascent of the North face. By P•. Hicl«l, 65 76 A few days on Mt Kenya. By J. W. Howard, 552 The fil'St ascent of the South face of Mt Kenya. By A. H. F rmin, 65 400 Kilimanjaro in 1927. By Miss S. Macdonald, 40 77 . Ruwenzori. By G. N. Humphreys, 39 99 Mountains of the Moon. By E. E. Shipton, 44 88 Ruwenzori from the West. By X. de Grunne, 45 275 A Polish ascent of the East face of Mt Stanley, R~enzori' By R. M. Bere, 54 275 Ruwenzori: Mfa Stanley and Spake. By R. M. B ,55 25 Ruwenzori: Mt Gessi revisited. By P. H. Hicks, 17 The exploration of the Ruwenzori. By R. M. Bere. 58 483 Memorial'!of (the Alps and) the .Congo. By P. J. L. Philipps n, 54 356 2. North The mountains of Morocco : the High Atlas. By J.I de Lepi ey, 40 221 The High Atlas and Marrakeoh: a note. By G. P. ~aker, 4 147 The Atlas mountains. By A. de Pollitzer.Pollenghi.! 45 96 , Egyptian mountains. By G. W. Murray, 42 226! I The wrong way up Gebel Gharib. By G. W. Murra ,49 228 The top of ~pt. By G. W. Murray, 66 33 The ascent of Jebel Kassala. By}t. A. Hodgkin, 155 Notes on climbing in Tunisia. By L. H. Hurst, 57 45 Zaghouan by Verey Light. By H. W. Tilman, 54 I 1 A short holiday ill the mountains of Sinai. By J. C Hawksl y, 54 408 3. South Mountaineering conditions in the Union of South D. G. Mills, 49 235 The Mountain Club of South Africa. By W. C. W Miscellaneous notes: 54 315, 55 224, 56 79, 57 420

APENNIN S I Six montlls in the Abruzzi Apennines. By T. A. H1 Peacoc~e, 56108 . I NORTH AM~RICA ! Miscellaneous notes: 39 169, 40 195, 415, 41 237. ~32, 53 7$, 172,54 315, 317, 55 215. 56 290

1. Alukaand YukOn , ! I I The ascent ofMt Logan. By A.It. MaoCarthy, 391 I The ascent of Mt Bona, Alaska. By A. Carpe, 43 6 j The conquest of Mt Fairweather. By A. Carpe, 43 21 Mt McKinley from the air. By W. and M. W. Crozer, 44 2,5 Mt MoKinley revisited. By A. D. Lindley, 45 85, ) An attempt on Mt Crillon. By H. Paumgarten, 45 !135 I INDEX TO VOLUMES 39 to 58 81 Mt Foraker, Alaska. By T. Graham Brown, 47 14, 205 The ascent of Mt Steele. By W. A. Wood, 48 81 ! . '.rhe ascent of Mt Luoania. By B. Washburn, 50 95 , 1 The ascent of Mt St. Agnes, chugaoh range, Alaska. By B. rashbuT' 51 207 Mt Sanford: an Alaskan ski olimb. By T. Moore, 51 222. ; New climbs in the Alaska Coast range. By F. Beckey, 56 139 i Some scientific observations, and the first ascent of Mt Van~uver, S!~.Elias range. By N. E. Odell, 57 484 I '

2. Canada (except Yukon) >. I J Climbs in the Forbes-Lyell and other groups of the Canadi~ Recki s. By J. M. Thorington,

3952 I I > > Climbs in the Freshfield and other groups of the Canadian R~kies. ~Y J. M. Thorington, 43 75 Climbs from Maligne Lake (Northern Canadian Reclties). 1!SyM..M1 Strumia, 41 340 A Ca~n pack train trip. By Miss K. Gardiner, 42 70 I A month in the Canadian Rockies. By J,. S. Amery, 42 32 ! t Retreat of the iC$in the Canadian Cordillera. By A. O. Wh~ler, 44 63 The first a.scent of Mt Oubliette. By M. M. Strumia. and W. R. Rai worth, 45 341 Western Canada in 1933. By A. M. Binnie, 46 81 Th. N. Wing.r•••001="'" ,ro••• """""""' Ro'by M=' •••. B J. M. Th.""''' "'1IO Days in the Canadian Rookies. By J. S. T. Gibson, 54 399 I ' Some C.limbSin tb.e Rocky Mountams and the Selkirks. BYlG. E. Rl Palmer, 54 152 Training in the Canadian Rockies. By T. A. R. Peacocke, 532 War·time climbs in Canada. By H. Westmorland, 65 65 , Mystery Mountain.' By W. A. D. Munday, 40 99 Mystery MOllntain (Mt Waddington), 13,260 ft. By W. A•. Mund 'Y,41 160 The first ascent of Mt Waddington. By F. Wiessner, 49 49 ; Mt Robson and other climbs in the Canadian Rockies. By~. G. Cralvford, 43 258 A note on the na.ming of Mt Robson. By J. M. ThOrington=,48 322 In A crossing of the Coast Range of British Columbia. By E .. BeauJin, 47 75 Climbs in the Coast Range of British Columbia. By H. S. all, jr., 288 An expedition to the Lloyd George Mountains of N.E. Bri ish CoI~ bia. By F. S. Smythe, 56354 I ! British Columbia, 1949. By C. A. Fenner, 57 507 .r. I Miscellaneous notes: 40 195,414, 41 237,433,42 141, 52 ~41, 53 Itl, 54 203, 307, 5&316 3. Other districts The Sierra Nevada of the Upper Kern River, California. y A. E). Gunther, 41 328 The Sierra Nevada of California.. By F. P. Farquhar, 48 88 The Grand Teton by the E. ridge. By R. L. M. Underhill, 267 Shiva Temple and Wotan's Throne, Grand Canyon, 1937. By W.. Wood, 50 257 Ixtaooihuatl and Popooatapetl. By H. S. Hall, jr., 45 93

SOUTH AMERICA In the Cordillera Blanca: the 1932 D. & OE.A.V. Expedi' ·on. B P. Borchers, 45 34 Mountains and glaciers in West Patagonia. By H. N. Palli ,4562 I l\1t Tronador. Some 1934 attempts. By E. de 10. Motte, 370 A visit to the Andes of Venezuela. By A. E. Gunther, 52 7 The ascent of Pico Bonpland in the Andes of Venezuela. !By A. E Gunther, 53 127 Illimani and the Nazis. By E. S. G. de Ia Motte, 52 250 I The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Colombia. By W. A~OOd' 52 243 In the Argentine.Chilean Cordillera. By E. de 10. Motte, 45 328

ARCTIC AND ANTAR Ie Some journeys through the mountains of Iceland. By A. urray, 4 85 Climbing in Greenlo.nd, Petermann Peak. By J. M. Wordi , 42 241 The British Arctic Air Route expedition. By H. G. wat~' s,44 17 Mountains and glaoiers in West Greenland. By H. N. Palli ,4919 The Swiss expedition to Greenland, 1938. By A. Roch, 51 05 Greenlo.nd, 1950. By N. Tennent and C. G. M. Slesser, 58 92,199 Within and without the Arctic Circle. By N. E. Odell, 46 .7 82

The shores of Baffin Ba,y. By T. G. Longstaff and~' H. W. :aitchie, 4749 An ascent of Eyrik's Jokull. By H. N. Pallin, 48 32 ' The Vatnajokull. By A. de Pollitzer-Pollenghi, 48 2 7 The Watltins Mountains. By J. L. Longland, 48 40 On ski through Arctic Lapland to the North Cape. y c. wiatt, 50 248 The Beerenberg, Jan Mayen. By R. Scott RUBsell,5 18 Aspects of mountaineering in the High Arotic. By E. ad 1,54182 M;ountaineering in the Antarctio. By A. R. C. Buts*, 57 19 King George Island. By G. Hattersley-Smith, 58 67

AUSTRALAS A 1. New GUinea New Guinea: ascent of Carstensz Peak. By A. H. 102 The Carstensz massif, 1936. By A. H. Colijn, 49 17 2. New Zealand Mt Tasms.n and its satellites. Bv H. E. L. POl'tor, 9 265 The Southern Alps revisited. By H. E. L. Porter, 1 303 Gla.cier Peak and Mt Aspiring, N.Z. By H. E. L. P rtor,43 1 Douglas Peak, N.Z. By H. E. L. Porter, 45 305 Farewell to Dampier. By H. E. L. Porter, 48 280 Ski-mountaineering in New Zealand. By C. W. Wy tt, 49 87 Mt Cook. By a new route. By L. V. Bryant, 60 21 The lesser known ranges of the Otago Alps. By J. , . Hollo ay, 54 44 From Norway to New Zealand. By M. Tatham, 54 43 ( A beginner in the Bush. By H. E. Newton, 54 268 New Zealand notes, 1949-1950. By D. Hall, 57 538 New Zealand not.os, 1950-1951. By D. Hall, 58 215 Misoellaneous notes: 39 163, 342,40 195,41 234,4 136, 34 ,43 190,44 142, 45 168,46 207, 47 159, 48 188, 52 133, 63 69; 171, 54 439, 66 221, 66 293 67 99 3. Tasmania Tasmania's mountains. By M. Tatham, 51 250

BALEARIC IS ANDS Mountain walks in Majorca. By O. K. Williamson, 60 239

BALKANS; NEAR AND MIDD E EAST Mt Olympus. By W. T. Elmslie, 39 86 Olympus. An International expedition. By W. J. " . on, 0 104 Note on Mt Olympus. By W. T. Elmslie and C. M. leeman 40 101 Olympus from West and South. By W. T. Elmslie nd C.:M. Sleeman, 41377 Mt Olympus. By Y. G. Meade.King, 65 269 Crete (1925, 1926, 1927). By G. P. Baker, 40 243 The mountains of Israel. By W. T. Elmslie, 40 338 The mOUll1tainsof Albania. By C. M. Sleeman, 42 5 Jumrukool. By C. M. Sleeman and L. A. Ellwood, The Ala Dag. By R. A. Hodgldn, 54 235 A further expedition to the Ala Dag, 1944. By E.. Peck, 6 45 Mounta.ineering with the Army in the Middle East. By A.• B. Side, 67 66 Notes on climbing in Cyprus. By L. H. Hurst, 67 r.5 Peutedhaktilos. By J. Hunt, 61192 The Alpine regions of Yugoslavia. By A. C. Niven, 58 379 Mountains oftbe Near East. By J. Hunt, 58 203 I BRITISH ISLES Climbing in Scotland. By H. MacRobert, 46 259 I· 1 Ski-mountaineering in Scotland. By H. MacRobert/ 54127 I A.T.C. Training in the Cairngorms. By Lord M. Dqugla.s-H~milton, 55 395 INDEX TO VOLUMES 391to58 83

Skye. By P. Bielmell, 54 337 The Cuillins under snow. By Lord M. Douglas-Hamilton, 58 382 Deep Gash Gully, Sgurr A'mdhadaidh, Skye. By H. Niool, ~7 542 Rock-olimbing in North Wales. By A. D. M. Cox, 53 115

CARPATHIANS AND TA'11RA

Hohe Tatra. By H. E. L. Porter, 47 310 I. I Climbing in the Tatra Mountains. l}y T. H. Somervell, 48 ~5 The Carpathians and the Tatra. By J. Bujak, 54 360 i •

A Bavarian (1928) expedition to the Cauoasus. By H. Nie~er,U~841 Ij6 =::~~:~~.The Swiss Caucasus expedition, 1933.~:·:::~:u_!By W. Weckert, 48 60 Two Caucasian journeys. By W. Heybroek and L. Saladin, 47 103 The D.u.OE.A.V. in the Caucasus, 1935. By R. Schwarzg ber,48 05 A second Caucasian tramp. By W. Heybrook, 48 86 J . The D.u.OE.A.V. in the Caucasus, 1936. By R. Schwarzgr ber,4919 A light expedition to the Central Caucasus, 1937. By J. R. Jenkins,150 12 Miscellaneous notes: 39 162,42132,346,43 399, 46 221," , 160 I

OENTRAL ASIA

On the fringe of the Pamirs. By W. R. Rl6kmers, 41 156 ! Black Forest Mountain, Pamirs. By W. R. Riokmers, 41 261 The Upper Aghias, Ccntral Tien Shan. By R. Schomberg, 4s 79 The ascent of Minya Konka. By T. Moore, 45 290 I The Arch. By E. E. Shipton, 58 227 Muztagh Ata. By E. E. Shipton, 58 317 More news from Tartary. By H. W. Tilman, 57 184 Bogdo Ola. By E. E. Shipton, 57 467

CORSICA Note on the Viro Valley peaks, Corsioa. By G. I. Finch, 292 The Punta Minuta from the North, and other Corsican asc nts. Bt W. Amstutz, 45 142 I , I

HIMALAYAS i I

~:;:rotE~:r;averest expedition. An Austrian OritiOism~' By E.l.Strutt and D. W. F.r:esh. field, 39 117 t • The English Mt Everest expedition, 1933.' By E. L. St tt, 44 2 The Mt Everest expedition, 1933. By H. Ruttledge, 45 21 I..essons from the Ut Everest expedition of 1933. By T•. Longs alf, 46 102 Everest, 1933. Extracts from the Everest diary of C. G. ramo , 46 111 The supposed Tibetan or Nepalese name ofMt Everest. N. E. dell, 47 127 The Mt Everest reoonnaissance, 1935. By E. E. Shipton, 18 1 Mt Everest: t~e sixth expedition. By H. Ruttledge, 48 2 1 Mt Everest, 1938. By H. W. Tilman, 513 Oxygen on Mt Everest, 1938. By P. Lloyd, 5185 Oxy-genand Mt Everest. By G. 1. Finch, 51 89 I Mt Everest: the last lap. By E. F. Norton, 57 285 I Short trip to the Nepal side of Everest. By H. W. Tilman;, &8 108 The reconnaissance of Mt Everest, 1951. By W. H. Murraly, 58 43

2. Kamet I ! The Kamet expedition, 1931. By F. S. Smythe, 43 289. I Short summary of the Kamet expedition, 1931. By E. B. i Beaumap, 43 306 Kamet, 1937. By R. Ridley, 49239 . 84

3. KangchenJunga i Kangchenjlmga, 1929. The Bavarian attempt. By . Bo,ner,'42 73 The fight for Kangohenjunga, 1929. By P. Bauer, 42 185 The assault on Kangchenjunga, 1930. By F. S. Smyt e, 42 2 Kangchenjunga, 1931: the second Bavarian attempt. By P. aner,44 13 4. Nanda Devi The Nande. Devi bo.sin. By E. E. Shipton, 47 58 Nanda. Devi, 1936. A note. By T. Graham Brown, 311 The ascent of Nanda Devi. By H. W. Tilman, 49 13 Survey in the Nanda. Devi district. By E. E. Shipto ,49 27 The Polish ascent of Nanda Devi, East Peak, 1939. By S.. Blake and J. Bujak, 53 31 6. Nanga Parbat The German-American Himalayan expedition, 1932. By H. unigk,44 192 The German all!la.ulton Nanga Pe.rbat (1934). By E. Schneid r, 47 92 The disaster on Nanga Parbat, 1937. 49210 Nanga Parbat, 1938. By F. Bechtold, 5170 6. Other districts Wa.nderings in the Kumaun Himalaya, 1925-1926. y H. Climbing the Kashmir Matterhorn. By C. R. Cooke, 39 79 Kai1a.sPalrbat and two passes of the Kumaon Hima ya. B Twenty years after. By T. G. Longsta.ff, 40281 Himalay~ contrasts. By C. G. Bruce, 43 1 The Gang,ootriglacier and Leo Pargial, 1933. By C. 306 Lashar Plain. By E. E. S!ripton, 46 129 Trisul, 1003. By P. R. Oliver, 46 142 Towards Trisu!. By C. W. F. Noyce, 64 166 ChomoIhari. By F. S. Chapman, 49 203 The German Sikkim expedition, 1936. By P. Bauer, 4941 Lachsi and the Zemu Gap. By H. W. Tilman. 60271 An expedition in the Sikkim Himalaya. By J. Hun , 50 109 A winter expedition to the Zemu glacier. By J. H t, 53 1 Ascent of Gordamah Peak, N. Sikkim. By E. E. S pton, 49 103 Garhwa,l. 1937. By F. S. Smythe, 50 60 The German Garhwa1 Himalaya expedition, 1938. y R. Sc warzgruber, 51 79 Garhwal,1939: the Swiss expedition. By A. Roch, 62 34 The Scottish Garhwal arid Kumaon expedition. By • H. urray, 66 49 AIl!la.mHimalaya unvisited. By H. VI. Tilman, 52 5 Himalayan byways. By J. O. M. Roberts, 52 233 Kulu revisited. By J. O. M. Roberts, 53 323 The Milam glacier and Tirsuli peaks. By S. B. Bla ,53 43 Simsaga and the monsoon. By C. W. F. Noyce, 54 03 An aircrew mountain centre in Kashmir. By C. W. F. Noyc ,55 74 AircI'l:lwmountain centre, Kashmir. By A. J. M. S yth,58 15 Bandar Punch reconnaissance. By A. R. Leyden,S 173 Bandar Punch again. By R. L. Holdsworth, 56 246 The ascent of BandaI' Punch. By J: T. M. Gibson, kl249 Indian lea.ve. By B. R. Goodfellow, 56 373 r Notes on Nandakna (Garhwal), 1944. By B. R. Go~dfellow, 55 202 An ascent of Chomiomo. By T. H. Tilly, 58 340 i The Nepal Himalaya. By H. W. Tilma.n, 57 305 i Annapurna. By M. Herzog, 68 155 The Annapurna RimaI. By H. W. Tilman, 58 101 Miscellaneous notes: 39 161, 341, 40 192, 410, 41 2 0, 66 80, 188, 292

JAPAN, FORMOS , KOR A Eight days in the Ja.panese Alps. By H.I.H. the ince Ch ombu, 41 8 Ontake, the Sacred Peak. By W. H. M. Walton, 234 Some notes on climbing in Formosa... By W. H. M.IWalton, i 6328 Some climbs in Korea. By C. H. Archer, 43 103 i I I INDEX TO VOLUMES 391 to 58 85

KARAKORUM AND HINDU' KUSH! With the 1926 ShakBgam Survey Party. By H. D. Millchin~on, 392p9

Note on the above. By F. Youllghusband, 39 241 1 I Shakagam expedition, 1937. By E. E. Shipton, 5034 i I The Upper Shyok glaciers. By K. Mason, 44 237 I

The Bar and Daintar gla.ciers, 1933. By R. Schomberg, 46 31 1 The glaciers of Upper Ishkoma.n. By R. Schomberg, 46 34 Some glaciers of Upper Chitral. By R. Schomberg, 47 98 • Derdi and Chapursan valleys: moUntains of N.W. Chitral. By R. I chomberg, 48 295 The expedition to Peak K 36, 1935. By J. Hunt, 47 282 Passes-Northern Yasin. By R. Schomberg. 47 316 Istor-o·Nal: the 1935 attempt. By R. J. Lawder, 48 U8 Lutkuh and Hunza. By R. Schomberg, 48 124 Masherbrum, 1938. By J. Waller, 50 199 The American Karakoram expedition to K 2, 1938. By C.. Houst n, 51 54 A journey in the Western Karakoram. By M. Vyvyan, 51 31 The Karakoram expedition, 1939. By R. Scott Russell, 521195 The ascent of Mankial Tsuktti in Upper Swat. By R. L. H ldewort ,63 319 The Nushik La. By R. C. F. Sohomberg and others, 56 61 A reconnaissance of Saser Kangri, Eastern Karakorarns, 1 46. By J. O. M. Roberts, 56 149 Rakaposhi. By H. W. Tilman, 56 329 • Prelude to the oonquest ofTirich Mir. By E. H. Cobb, 68 The Norwegian expedition to Tirich Mir. By A. Naess, 68

MALAYA An ascent of Gunong Tahan. By S. P. Mead, 54 426 Travels in Japanese ocoupied Mataya. By F. S. Chapman, 736

NORWAY, LOFOTEN, SW DEN The East face of the Trolltinder. By A. Rallders-Heen, 44 ~83 Mountaineering in the Jostedalsbr81en. By A. L. Wood, 471272 From Norway (to New Zealand). By M. Tatham, 54 l4:J 1 A view·hunter in Norway. By C. R. P. Vandeleur, 56 364) Hill-roaming in Norway. By K. C. P. Struve, 58 222 The Lofoten IsIands, 1930. By G. F. Abercrombie, 43 268 A month in Lofoten. By A. M. Binnie, 51 43 The Kebnekaise district, Sweden. By H. L. Joseland, 41 3 5 Nordsaulo. By J. C. Hawksley, 57 481

, PERSIA Climbing and ski·ing in the Elburz range, North Persia. B D. L. usk,45 334 The German expedition in the Elburz range, North Persia. By D.. Busle, 49245 The Bakhtiari mountains ofS.W. Persia. By N.L. Faloon 46 351 Climbing in the Takht·i·SulewlIm group, N. Persia. By D. L. Busk 47299 Bisitun (Iran). By H. W. Tilman, 65 275

PYRENEES AND SPA Some Spanish mountains.' By W. T. Elmslie, 39 286 A flight over the Pyrenees. By W. M. Conway, 40 325 The Picos de Europa, 1933. By G. F. Abercrombie, 46 63 The Highlands of Cantabria. By ~. R. Rickmel'S, 44 21.6 86 INDEX TO VOLu1ES 3910 58

!

Alai-Pamirs, 41 after 451 Alaska: 307 Chugach range, 51 208 Mt ~'airweather & environs, 45 140 Mt Foraker, 47 48 Mt Sanford region, 51 223 Albania, Mountains of Northern, 42 58 Almora, part of Northern, 63 33 Alpine Maps of A. Tschudi, 46 147, 152-3 Alps: New Frontiers in, 40 293 Basic and Major Branch Watersheds, 58 361 America, Southern part of South, 45 63 Annapurna, 58 157 Apentrines, Abruzzi, &8 110 Arves, Aiguilles d', 40 13 Assam Himalaya, 52 54 Bandar Punch. aa 178 Banke glacier system, 50 69 Bar and Daintar. Ishkoman and other glaciers, 46 454 Beerenberg-Jan Mayen. 5120 Blanc. Mont: Brenva Face, 39 311 Bogdo 010., 57 471 Canada: Maligne Lake group, 41 340 Coast Range British Columbia, 47 85, 298 Columbia group, N. wing, 48 291 Mountains round Goldbridge, British Columbia, 57 508 Carstenz Massif. 49 312 CaullasuS: Elbrus region. S.E., 47 103 Kasbek region. E., 47 108 Bezingi Horseshoe, 48 113 Dykshu group, 48 108 Sugan group, 48 106 . Northern Adai Khokh and Tepli Massif, 48 90 Jailik group, 50 17 Oorsica ; Mte Rotondo group, 40 173 Orete, 40 456 DolQmites, Alpago district, 55 161 Egypt: Shayib EI-Banat and Environs, 56, 35 Engelborner, 41 26 Everest, Mount, 68 440 Formosa, N.E., 46329