Volumes 39 to 58 1927 to 1952
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INDE >. TO THE ALPINE JO NAL VoIs. 39 to 5 1927 to 195 Printed by SPOTTISWOODE, BALLANTYNE &: CO. LTD. LONDON & COLCH~STE 1954 PREF.AC 1 THE present volume carries the Index to t e"ALPI E JOURNALfrom Volumes 39 to 58, covering the years 1927 to 195 . The basis of the Index was the indices 0 the co ponent volumes, but brought into conformity with the In ex to olumes 16 to 38, published in 1929. The pro}Josa} for a continuation of th conso dated Index was put forward late in 1949 and continue to b urged until, in December 1950, Mr. D. 1!'. O. Dangar un ertook to make a start. Ultimately, the great bulk of the work fell 0 him nd proved to be much more arduous than had been env sa.ged, as the previous indexing of many of the volumes was so de ective at most of them had to be re-done entirely. The thanks of the Club are due to Mr. angar for his unsparing work in bringing this task to a conclusion; to M . S. de V. Merri- man for help in the earlier stages; to Mr.. sanSferino for help in proof-reading; and to all others who hav co-op ated with them in the undertaking. E.. HERBERT, President. I I ! IlST OJ? ABB. I~VI A.C. = Alpine Club• .C. = Mountain Club. A.A.C. = American Alpine t. = Mount, Mont. Club. e. = Monte. A.B.M.S.A.C. = Association of ts. = Mountains. British Members N Z. = New ZCl~land. of Swiss Alpine bit. = obituary. Club. k. = Peak. Aig. = AiguilIe. p rt. = portrait. art. = article. t. = Point. asc. = ascent. P a. = Punta. A.T.C. =. Air Training Corps. P, . = Pointe. C.A.l!'. = Club Alpin J<'ran9ais. R.q.S. = Royal GeograpWcal a.A.I. = Club Alpino Italiano. Society. cr. = crossed, crossing. r v. = review. D.A.V. = Deutscher Alpen S.A C. = Schweizer Alpen Verein. Club. D.Oe.A.V. = Deutscher und S.MjC. = Scottish Ocsterreicbischer , Mountaineering Alpen Vercin. , Club. dese. = descent; r. = traverse, traversed. Di. = Diebel. U.M C. = University G.H.M. = Groupe de Haute Mountaineering Montagne. Club. gl. = glacier. v 1. = volume. ill. = illustration. 2 Aitchison, I. G. : rev. of British Ski Year Book, 1944,55 lI5 48 368 The Complete Ski Ma.nual, 51 276 obit. of H.W. Hoek, 58 403 Aitchison, P. M.: obit., 56 76 Aitken, S.: death, 41 218, 259 Akeley, Carl (naturalist): 54 357 Akka (Lapland): ill., 50 249 Abollal (Morocco): asc.,45 108, 113 Ala Dag, expeditions to: 54203,235,5545,222 ill., 54 238-41, 55 48-53 Alam Kuh (Persia) : asc., 47 303, 49 245-6 Alas~a (see also Special List) : at OSphOl'icpressure on summits, 43 227 bib.iography of articles on mountaineering in,51220 1st ascs. in, dates and A. J. refs., 50 95 glacier recession in, 52 285 heights of mts in, 43 74 n. Alaska Range: 47 17 ill., 44 274 Alba~a: mts of, art. & ills., 42 55 obit., 43 353 Albal.lOn: asc., 51 206 AlbeJ:fuI, H.M. King (of Belghun) : alpine career, 46 279 death, 46 i memorial to & ill., 50 316 me!Uorial service,·46·207 obituary verse to, 46 207 port. presented to A.C., 46 404 poJt1;s.,43 380, 46 279 AlbCIjt, Pic (Chamonix): desc. by W. face, 45406 Albigna gl.: ill., 39 317,46 63 Alcantara, Mt (Canada): 1st asc., 42 70 ill., 42 72 Alcazaba: ill., 40 41 Alcove: 1st winter asc., 55 40 tr., 65 42 Aldridge, E. A. : obit. of G. W. Lloyd, 46 181 death, 50 142, 184 Aletschhorn : asc.,47134 1st by S.E. face, 41 403, 42 16 from N., 48172 by the Hasler rib, 65 353 in winter, 54 28 tr.,43 121,44 337, 49269 1st tr. of section of S.E. ridge, 51 148 ill. from S (1929 route), 42 16 from Sparrhorn, 43 41 Aletsch glacier: accidents, 43 188, 50 327 Alexander, H.: his book: The Cairngorms, 40427 Alexander, H.M. King (of Yugoslavia): death, 46 404 Alexander, R. F.: death, 51 341 Alexander, Mt (Canada): ill., 39 56 Algie, R. M.: obit. of H. F. Wright, 51 309 Alja!, Fat,her: death, 39 332 Allain, P.: his book: Alpiuisme et Com- petition, 57 433 3 Alpine Club: Alpine 0 b obitu ry: address to: 45 156 397 2 128, 283 Edward VIII, 48 i 46 206 403 369, 169,264,,386 Queen Mary, 48 ii 47148 367 77,200,307,437 Queen Elizabeth II, 58 289 48 179, 359 5 100,215,314,425 Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother, 49 121, 271 56 78. 184, 285, 403 58290 50 142 316 67 95, 255,417, 566 addresses by Presidents: 51 136 325 58 126, 269, 406, 532 Morse,411 Alpine b Pensi n Fund: Wilsoll, 44 1 56 285 313, 4 ,57 102, 261, 422, 574, Withers, 47 1 '58 iv . Strutt, 50 1 Alpine 01 b Prem s: Schuster, 53 1 491 0,5010 Young, 54 215 ill., 50144-5,3.0-1 Amery,561 Alpine 0 b-Que n Mary, visit of, 41 6 Longstaff, 57 281 Alpine C lb proc ings: American members, 39 169,41 237,53 72 39 204 385 150, 309 gift of ambulances, 52 298, 53 69, 389 40217 456 0 183, 363 Alpine Club dinners : 41 257 450 1 172, 352 39205 48 219 42 160 374 ~2 167,297 40219 49151 43 218 427 . 3 86, 183, 279, 403 41258 50184 44 173, "383 4 94, 211, 333, 455 42 161 51 173,325 45 196 428 5 lI8, 340, 44.0 43 220 55 341 46 274 452 696, 202, 307, 418 44174 5697 47 194 401 7 123, 279, 441, 596 45 198 57 124, 279, 442 48 218 403 i, vi 46 276 58 after 288, after 553 Alpine C b War emorial: &8 136 47195 ill.,58 37 Alpine Club exhibitions-photographic: Alpine m ps, of A gidius Tsohudi: 46146 39 119, 205 48 145, 219 Alpine M stioism, 51 284 40 146, 218 51 173 Alpine ritanis, 57 341 41 169, 258 56 97 Alpine U lift: 5~'257' 341, 564, 573 (see 42 161, 263 57385 also 47 47) 44 96,174 58384 Alpinism, III' C ngres International d' : 46156 44 340 Alpine Club exhibitions-piotures : Alpinism , IV' Co re., International d' : . 39 294, 385 43 154, 219 45 403 40 362 45 132, 197 Alps (see lso Ita ' n Alps) : 41 379 47 130, 195 new fi ntiers in 40 292 Alpine Journal: East , 46 74, 0 82, 53 338 250th numbeT, 47149 Italian oommiss on on division of, 40 177 editorship, 49 271 A hyd graphio approaoh to the, 57 352, format & type, 48 179 581 ,330 printing & publioation, 44 6,53 386, 54 109 Seaso in the: annual summary: reduction in size, 53 69, 54 269 1939: 52 138, Alpine Club library, additioJlJl to: 39 191, 369 49 141, 302 1949:1948: 6757 2589~ 40435 50 169, 356 1950: 58131 41 245, 446 51 165, 349 1951: &8270 42 149 52 159, 294 Alpspitze: ill., 46 76-7 43 206, 420 53 84, 182, 278, 401 Altels : 44 162, 379 54 89, 210, 331, 453 by N.E faoe, 154, 48 351 45 184, 421 55 116,229, 337, 437 .. ,43 17 46 245, 438 56 92, 199, 305, 416 N.E. face (18 4 & 1932 routes), 47 154 47 182, 392 67 121, 276, 438, 594 N.E. face (19 6 route), 48 348-9 48 210, 390 58 after 154 . Altels gla 'er: 40 84 Alpine Club library, removal of, 51 136 Altin-Ma ar (Pam' ): ill., 51 36 Alpine Club lunches: 53 87, 280 Ama Dri e (Him laya): ill., 48 2 Alpine Club membership, some statistios of, Am Bas . : ill., 265 67 100, 58 127 Amateurs and Gui es, mutual responsibility: , Alpine Club obituary : 43323 39 144, 328 42 119, 336 matter, ritz: t 40 177, 398 43 179, 381 oareer port., 163 41 218, 418 44 131, 329 death, 404 ,I 4 INDEX TO VOLUtES 39 ~ 58 Amedeo, Pic Luigi: ill S.1<;.face, 45 248 eroid : America: 14,000' pks in, 41 338· he Pauli, 40 360 American Alpine Club: Handbook ofMolln. atoh ty 0,42293 taineering, 54206 n (N.' .): 5th MC., 49 94 AmerioanAlpineJournal:rev.ofNo.l,41445 An , N. his book: Leslie Stephen, his Amery, L. C. M. S. : hought nd Character in relation to his , Off da.yson an Empire tour,' 40 108 ime, 68 19 'A month in the Canadian Rockies,' 4232 An apurna 'A note on the Bavarian Alps,' 47 344 at asc., 572,68155 'A note on the Dachstein range,' 49 242 Iso Imol 11 as Morslriadi,68 256 'A note on the Julian Alps,' 49 104 i l., 58 16 'The Eastern limestone Alps,' SO 82 An Iapurna V: attempt & ill., 58 103 , Mountain warfare,' 54 413 An n: note: climbs in the Canadian Rockies, 41 ietschh 11 (S.E. arete), 45 140 429 otes 011 effects duo to rarit.y of the air poem: 'Sursum cor,' 50 278 when t aining [by O. K. Williamson}, valedictory address: 56 1 48 137 his books: Days of Fresh Air, 52 143 An erne, Co d': accident, 45 167 In the Rain and the Sun, 56 85 An aCs(N .• ): asc., 42 348 rev. of: Son of the Mountains, 50 154 An evui, J n: death, 55 427 Je~n Antoine Carrel, 57 117 Ao ach Beg: iiI., 54 128 Cliimbsin the Canadian Rockies, 58 145 Ao ach Mot: iiI.,54 128 Eell Halve Eeeuw Nederland's Alpin- Ao ta, Val '.: place llames in, 52 131 lsme, 58 552 Ao kenet ( oggar): asc., 58 271 obit.