Aiden Elfeadur Gluten-Free Feasting Steve Otlowski A growing number of individuals are being diagnosed with gluten sensitivity. Due to the seriousness of some of these conditions, it is good to be aware of what can be done in our feast kitchens to provide alternatives and to help eliminate avoidable gluten contamination.

Let’s start with a simple overview of the most common gluten-sensitivities. They can be divided into several related conditions: Celiac Sprue - A genetically inherited disease in which the body’s immune system attacks sites in the villi of the small intestine where gluten is absorbed into the body. Reaction to gluten ingestion can vary from slight to debilitating. Due to damage in the intestines, many Celiacs suffer from nutritional defi ciencies by the time they are diagnosed. Dermatitis Herpetiformis (DH) - A related genetic condition where the immune system attacks sites in the dermal layer of the skin where immuno-globulins created in reaction to gluten exposure collect. This causes an outbreak of an itching rash on the skin. Many DH patients also suffer from some degree of intestinal involvement. Wheat and Gluten Allergies - These allergies can cause a wide variety of symptoms from gastric upset, headaches, itching, and respiratory conditions, to connective tissue diffi culties similar to arthritis. For convenience we will refer to those who suffer with all of these conditions as celiacs.

Gluten contamination in amounts as low as 10-30 mg can lead to reactions in some celiacs.

On GF Grains and Flours

Glutinous Grains & Flours Gluten-Free Grains and Flours Wheat Old World Grains New World Grains Rye Rice Corn (Maize) Barley Brown Rice Corn starch Spelt (germinated wheat) Sweet/Glutinous Rice Montina Kamut (Egyptian wheat) Buckwheat (aka Kasha) Wild Rice Triticale (wheat/rye hybrid) Oats ** Potato Flour Durum (Wheat) Sorghum Potato Starch Semolina (Wheat) Millet Quinoa Amidon (Wheat Starch) Beans (lentil, garbanzo, fava, & Amaranth Einkorn (primitive small grained broad bean) Tapioca wheat) Peas Manioc Emmer (Durum Wheat) Nut Flours Arrowroot Farro Acorn Flour Tef Bulgur (Wheat) Couscous (Wheat Pasta)

**Oats – Oats are a gluten-free grain. However, it is often grown in the same fi elds that are used for wheat on alternate years. It is sometimes contaminated with wheat. Certifi ed gluten-free oats are available via the internet and from some health/whole food stores. Old World Grains Rice / Rice Flour - This is the basis and body of most GF Flours. It was grown in many places and imported from Italy for use in many northern climates where it was favored in many noble recipes. For baked goods, it is usually best to use it in combination with other fl ours as it sometimes adds a grainy texture to baked goods. It most inexpensively obtained from Asian Markets, where it is frequently a fraction of the price that it is sold at health food and specialty stores. Brown Rice Flour - Not typically used in period recipes, but it does add a more wheat-like texture to many baked goods. Sweet/Sticky/Glutinous Rice - Does not actually contain any gluten. It is however, much higher in starch than other rices. It can help to retain moisture and tenderize baked goods. It most inexpensively obtained from Asian Markets, where it is frequently a fraction of the price that it is sold at health food and specialty stores. Buckwheat (aka Kasha) - The three-sided buckwheat groat is the shape and rusty color of a beechnut, and thus its Dutch name was boek (beech) weite (wheat). Buckwheat, sometimes referred to as “black wheat,” is actually the bean of a plant related to Rhubarb. It was used as a fl our, and also cooked up as groats (kasha) as a porridge1, or in ways similar to cracked wheat (bulgur). Crepes or pan-cakes made of buckwheat are popular in Brittany even today. There is evidence of its cultivation in Holland by the year 1000.2 It was documented be grown in Germany by the 13th Century.3 It is widely available as fl our. You can also purchase it as groats/kasha at health/whole food stores. Please note that most buckwheat pancake mix and buckwheat noodles have as much wheat in them as they do buckwheat. Be sure to read the label. Oats - Since Oats grow well in cool, moist climates it became a staple in northern Europe, especially in Wales, Scotland, Scandinavia, and Germany.4 Remains of an oat bread have been found in medieval Norse digs.5 A number of period noble recipes call for them or refer to them as a thickener or fi ller. It can be easily ground into fl our (from rolled oats) in a blender as needed. Rolled Oats are not period, but were invented in the 18th Century. A fl at bread made of oats was a staple in many parts of Scotland through the 19th C. Oats are a gluten-free grain. However, it is often grown in the same fi elds that are used for wheat on alternate years. It is therefore sometimes contaminated with wheat. Certifi ed gluten-free oats are available via the internet and from some health/whole food stores. One reasonably priced version is sold by Bob’s Red Mill, . Sorghum Flour - There are two main forms of Sorghum. One is sweeter and is grown for the production of Sorghum Molasses. The other is a grain grown to be ground into fl our. It has a texture very similar to wheat fl our and makes a fi ne addition to GF mixes. You can also purchase it at health/whole food stores, on-line, or at Indian Markets under the name of Jawar fl our. I recommend . Millet - Is an old world grain that is still a staple in many parts of the world. It will grow in climates that are too dry or too cold to grow wheat. Millet was referenced in Pliny’s Natural History. It was grown in Europe by 2000 BC, and is know to have been cultivated in Europe during the Carolingian period.3 Recipes are extant in several period cookery manuscripts including Viandier, Menagier, and Two 15th C Cookery Books. It was consumed by both the upper and lower classes in Poland, and some of these Polish recipes may have migrated to France.1 You can also purchase it at Health/Whole food stores and at some Asian Markets. Beans - Lentils, Garbanzo-beans, Fava-Beans, Broad-Beans, & Peas (dried not sweet) are the only beans generally accepted to have been available in Europe during the SCA period. They cooked as whole beans, and in soups, & pottages. They were also ground into fl our to amend or extend wheat fl our in bread for the lower classes or in times of famine. Bean fl ours can be purchased at health/whole food stores, or on-line. Nut Flours - Nuts were used in many period recipes. Particularly almonds, but also walnuts, hazelnuts, and chestnuts and others were also used. Almonds and almond milk were common ingredients in period cookery. All can be ground into fl our to enrich baked goods. You can also purchase them at health/whole food stores. Acorn Flour - Oak trees were highly valued, as their nuts helped to fatten up pigs prior to the winter harvest. For human consumption most varieties must be ground into fl our and rinsed with repeated changes of water to remove the large quantity of tannic acid in them. While in common usage among the Native American populations of North America, it was certainly considered a fl our of dire last resort in Europe. Teff - An old world grain from northern Africa, teftefff is the native grain of Ethiopia. It is also the smallest of all grains. Its seeds are smaller than the average poppy seed. It is a very nutritious grain, and due to its small size, is an excellent source of fi ber. It is unlikely that it was available in Europe. It does, however add a nice nutty fl avor to breads and baked goods, if you are looking for a “whole-wheat” sort of look and fl avor. It is available from Amazon.com as whole grain and as fl our. You can also purchase it at health/whole food stores or from an Ethiopian Grocery. New World Grains While these grains are not period, some of them are useful in reproducing facsimiles of wheat-based baked goods. Corn (Maize) - While it was a staple of South American Cultures, it was not available in Europe. I see no particular advantage to its use in an SCA setting. Corn Starch - A useful starch to use in place of amidon (wheat starch) as a thickener. It also improves the texture of many baked goods. Montina - Indian Rice Grass. It is supposed to be useful in baked goods, but I have not run into it. It is an expensive grain and is largely available from sources on-line. Wild Rice - Not actually a rice, but the seeds of a marsh grass. I see no particular advantage to its use in an SCA setting. Potatoes - Potatoes came into use only very late in period, and even then only as a curiosity that was occasionally candied for use in a banquet/dessert usage. I see no particular use for it as a root vegetable in an SCA setting. Potato Starch - A useful starch to use in place of amidon (wheat starch) as a thickener. It also improves the texture of many baked goods. Potato Flour - (Ground Dried Potato) A useful fl our to use as a thickener. In very small amounts, it also improves the texture of many baked goods. Quinoa - (pronounced Kin-wah) A nutritious new world grain that can be used in place of cracked wheat (bulghur). Be sure to rinse it carefully in running water, as Quinoa produces a natural soap-like coating on its seeds to deter pests. If not washed off, the coating is very bitter. It can be ground into fl our for baked goods. It is available as grain or fl our online or at health/whole food stores. Amaranth - A very nutritious South American grain. It can be used in place of cracked wheat (bulghur). It can also be ground into fl our for baked goods. It is available as grain or fl our online or at health/whole food stores Tapioca Starch or Tapioca “Flour” - Is a starch extracted from the root of a plant native to South America. According to Wikipedia it is now cultivated worldwide and has many names, including cassava, bitter- cassava, manioc… It is a useful starch to use in place of amidon (wheat starch) as a thickener. It also improves the texture of many baked goods. It most inexpensively obtained from Asian Markets, where it is frequently a fraction of the price that it is sold at health food and specialty stores. Manioc - see tapioca Arrowroot - Is a pure starch primarily used as a thickening agent. According to Wikipedia: Arrowroot is… the name of the edible starch from the rhizomes (rootstock) of West Indian arrowroot… Arrowroot thickens at a lower temperature than does fl our or cornstarch, is not weakened by acidic ingredients, has a more neutral taste, and is not affected by freezing. It doesn’t mix well with dairy, forming a slimy mixture… Overheating tends to break down arrowroot’s thickening property. Throughout period, and in many earlier times, a wide variety of grain crops were grown. Except for rice, most were considered second class grains. Which grains were grown varied by the location and its climate. In many cooler climates, the hard wheat that makes good bread does not grow well. In addition, planting a variety of grain crops helped to ensure that not all of the harvest fails in the case of inclement weather. In many areas, oats, rice, barley, buckwheat, beans, and millet were as important as wheat in grain crops. Since transport was much more diffi cult at the time, many populations frequently had to make due with what grew locally. In these latter days, wheat and now corn(maize) are shipped globally and provide the vast majority of the grain in the West.

For people in some areas, and in some economic strata, these alternate grains and beans were staples of the diet. Some would be consumed as cooked whole grains, some loosely ground for porridge, & some ground into fl our for alternative breads or used to stretch wheat fl our.

Many of these alternate grains were consumed as pottages or porridges. Included in this packet are several period recipes, including one for cooked millet, one for oatmeal pottage, and one for blancmange (the proto- typical rice dish).

Historic excavations have turned up the remains of period Scandinavian breads5 made from oatmeal. These and other breads from GF grains may have been made as a batter cooked on a griddle. Hearth cakes of dough cooked next to the fi re, or Ash Cakes of fi rm dough cooked in the ashes and embers are other possibilities. (As long as the surface of the dough is dry and dusted with “fl our” the ashes will not stick. Thickening One of the primary forms of gluten contamination in many feasts is from the use wheat fl our or bread as thickening. While many period recipes call for bread as a thickener, many others call for rice fl our or for amidon (wheat starch). Some easy ways to solve this thickening dilemma are to use: • Rice fl our where you would normally use wheat fl our • Rice Flour, Corn starch, or arrowroot where you would normally use amidon • Rice fl our, gluten-free oats, gluten-free bread, or gluten-free bread crumbs in place of bread or bread crumbs

I tend to think of these as very reasonable substitutions that can make a signifi cant portion of a feast available to Celiacs. Contamination If you decide to prepare GF foods for your feast, be very aware of the dangers of cross contamination. Make sure that all pots, pans, rolling pins, counters, etc. have been thoroughly washed down to prevent contaminating the GF goods.

Also, be sure to read the ingredient labels on any staples that you use to create your feast. On the obvious side, bread and bread crumbs, pasta, noodles, crackers, etc. that are made of wheat fl our are out. Comercially breaded items also contain gluten. On the less obvious side, many bullion cubes and pastes may contain glutenous ingredients. Just as a example, some unlikely items that may contain gluten (not that you’d be using many of them in a feast) include: commercial chili, some processed meat and sausage, tomato soup, creamed soups, bisques, soy sauce, couscous, pre-packaged spice and herb mixes, powdered cheeses, meat balls, gravy & gravy mixes, cheese sauce, most beer (mostis made from barley and/or wheat), some dry roasted nuts, graham fl our (not to be confused with Indian gram bean fl our) etc... If view of all of these likely and unlikely wheat containing items, please read the content labels.

Extensive lists of GF safe and glutenous items are available at . Adaptation Many glutenous recipes can easily be adapted to gluten free fl ours, but some adjustment is necessary. The primary usefulness of gluten in baking is to act as a kind of glue and to give the dough elasticity. Gluten forms a network of molecules in the dough that allow it to form bubbles and to stretch as these bubbles expand during raising and baking. Some baked goods, like bread, depend heavily the elastic properties of gluten. These doughs are usually kneaded or beaten to “develop” or activate the gluten. (Provide a celiac with warm GF bread at your feast and you may well make a friend for life.) Other baked goods, such as cakes, are intended to be more tender, and one actively avoids developing the gluten when preparing them. These are frequently easier to adapt to GF. When adapting a glutenous recipe to be gluten-free, it is frequently necessary to add something to take the place of the gluten. Typically, this additive is either Xanthan Gum or Guar Gum. For a bread-like recipe it is generally added at a rate of 1/2 tsp. per cup of “fl our”. For a cake-like recipe, that does not depend heavily on the properties of gluten, you can reduce it to 1/4 tsp per cup of “fl our”. Typically, it is best to sift the Gum into the fl our prior to adding any moisture. Most GF fl our mixes are composed of fl ours from several different grains to approximate the properties of wheat fl our. The right mix to use depends on the properties needed for a given baked good. Some recipes benefi t from a mixture heavier in starch. Some do better with a mix with more body and less starch. Some recipes (especially bread like or cake like ones) benefi t from the use of additional chemical leaveners (baking powder / baking soda), or from the added egg or powdered egg substitute. Some adapted recipes are included with this packet. GF Flour Mixes Here are a few typical GF Flour mixtures: (scale as needed) Bette Hagman’s GF Flour Mix: 6 2 C Rice Flour (white or brown rice); 2/3 C Potato Starch; 1/3 C Tapioca Starch Bette Hagman’s Featherlight Flour Mix (particularly good for lighter or starchy baked goods) 6 1 C Rice Flour; 1 C Tapioca Starch; 1 C Corn Starch, 3 tsp Potato Flour (Not Potato Starch) Aiden’s GF Flour Mix (particularly good for heavier bodied baked goods, cookies, and shortbreads 2C Soughum Flour; 1 C Sticky (Glutenous) Rice Flour; 1 /3 C Brown Rice Flour; 1 2/3 C Tapioca Starch

1 Food and Drink in Medieval Poland: Rediscovering a Cuisine of the Past, Maria Dembinska (Author), Magdalena Thomas (Translator) ©1999, University of Pennsylvania Press; ISBN-10: 0812232240 2 Medieval Farming and Technology, Grenville G. Astill, John Langdon, ©1997, Brill Academic Publishers; ISBN-10: 9004105824 3 Regional Cuisines of Medieval Europe, Melitta Weiss Adamson, ©2002, Routledge, ISBN-10: 0415929946 4 Food in Medieval Times, Melitta Weiss Adamson, ©2004, Greenwood Press, ISBN-10: 0313321477 5 Medieval Scandinavia: An Encyclopedia (Encyclopedias of the Middle Ages) P. Pulsiano (Editor), Phillip Pulsiano (Author), Kirsten Wolf (Author), ©1993 Routledge ISBN-10: 0824047877 6 The Gluten-FreeGluten-Free Gourmet: Living WellWell without Wheat (Revised Edition), Bette Hagman, ©2000, Holt Paperbacks, ISBN-10: 0805064842, ISBN-13: 978-0805064841 Some useful GF Cookbooks

Betty Hagman has a written a number of Gluten Free Cookbooks. She offers a number of different fl our mixes and a wide array of recipes adapted to GF. Her “French Bread” recipes is one of the best bread recipes that I have found to date. I especially recommend: The Gluten-Free Gourmet Bakes Bread, ISBN-10: 0805060782, ISBN-13: 978-0805060782 The Gluten-Free Gourmet: Living Well without Wheat, ISBN-10: 0805064842, ISBN-13: 978-0805064841 The Gluten-Free Gourmet Cooks Comfort Foods, ISBN-10: 0805078088, ISBN-13: 978-0805078084 The Gluten-Free Gourmet Cooks Dessert, ISBN-10: 0805078088, ISBN-13: 978-0805078084

Gluten-Free Baking, Rebecca Reilly, ISBN-10: 1416535993, ISBN-13: 978-1416535997

Gluten-Free 101, by Carol Fenster (Author), ISBN-10: 1889374083, ISBN-13: 978-1889374086 I purchased this book on the basis that the author was willing to brave both Bagels and Cream Puffs, both of which turned out marvelously.

Some GF Resources

sells a lot of GF cooking fl ours, etc.

is the best resource that I know of for sorghum fl our.

need I say more?

sells a wide variety of GF foods and baking products.

sells a wide variety of Gluten-Free fl ours and mixes, but please not that not all of their products are gluten free.

Trader Joes Stores, many health/whole food stores, and some groceries sell varieties of GF Brown Rice Pasta. They are generally good for use in basic pasta dishes. (Loysegnes, etc.)

Many local grocery stores have begun to carry a selection of GF foods and fl ours. Check in the health/whole foods section of your grocery, you might be suprised.