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Jules Borel & Co. Order Desk 800-776-6858 .Jittl·el 1110 Grand Boulevard Order FAX 800-776-6862 .llt••·el Kansas City, MO 64106-2348 Local 816-421-6110 HOROWGICAL Ul TIMES CoNTENTs VOLUME 32, NUMBER 3, MARCH 2008
Official Publication of the FEATURES American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute Fit and Finnish, By Curtis D. Thomson 6 EDITORIAL & EXECUTIVE OFFICES OSU-Okmulgee Watchmaking Program American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute (AWCI) Receives $1 Million Grant from Rolex 10 701 Enterprise Drive Harrison, OH 45030 Dealing with Escape Wheel Problems, Part 2, By David J. LaBounty 12 Toll Free 1-866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) Do You Reuse Old Q-Tips ™?, Part 1, By Manuel Yazijian 18 or (513) 367-9800 Fax: (513) 367-1414 E-mail: [email protected] COLUMNS Website: www.awci.com Office Hours: Ask the Chemist, By the Chemists at Zenith Solutions 28 Monday-Friday 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM (EST) Fusees and Stopworks, Part 2, By Laurie Penman 30 Closed National Holidays DEPARTMENTS Managing Editor & Advertising Manager Donna K. Baas President's Message, By Dennis Warner 2 Associate Editor & Design Associate Executive Director's Message, By James E. Lubic 3 Katherine J. Ortt Questions & Answers, By David A. Christianson 4 Executive Director/Education & Technical Director Bulletin Board 9 James E. Lubic, CMW21 From the Workshop, By Jack Kurdzionak 24 Finance Director Thomas J. Pack, CPA New Members 35 Watchmaking Instructor/Certification Coordinator Industry News 40 Thomas D. Schomaker, CMW21 Classified Advertising 44 Clock Instructor Advertisers' Index 48 Laurie Penman AWCI Staff Directory Education Coordinator 48 Nancy L. Wellmann Membership Coordinator EDUCATION Sharon McManus AWCI Correspondence Course in Clock Repair 33 Receptionist/Technical Support Daniela Ott ETA Calibers Class - Alessandro Betti, Instructor 36 IT Director AWCI Academy of Watchmaking Classes 37 Jim Meyer AWCI 21 81 Century Certification Exam Schedule 37 Lathe I and Lathe II Classes- June 2008 38 HOROLOG/CAL TIMES ADVISORY COMMITTEE Ron Iverson, CMC: Chairman SPECIAL INTEREST Karel Ebenstreit, CMW Chip Lim, CMW, CMC, CMEW AWCI Convention & Educational Symposium 17 Robert D. Porter, CMW AWCI Honor Awards Nominations 22 E-mail: [email protected] AWCI Directors' E-mail Address Directory 23 AWCI-ELM Trust Donations 27 Reprinting and repr HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSNO 145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute, 701 Enterpriise Drive, Hanison, OH 45030-1696. Subscription price for the public is $125.00 per year ($8.50 per copy) . Members subscription is $60.00 which is included with annual dues of $125.00. Periodicals postage paid at Harrison, OH 45030 and addi COVER tional entries. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGI This month's cover features a CAL TIMES, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030 Kari Voutilainen timepiece ·- ... . I -= By Dennis Warner, CW21 The midyear meeting of your Board of Directors was held on February 9th and 1 10 \ 2008. What usually is a meeting of the Executive Committee turned out to be a regular meeting because of the great number of Directors in attendance. Dale Coates, the representative from our Perpetuation Fund investment com pany, Johnson Investment Counsel, Inc., was introduced to the Board. He pre sented a brief history of his company and discussed our investment strategies for our funds. Most members of the Board had not had the opportunity to meet Dale since the selection of his firm following the Annual Meeting in 2007. Dale Coates and our attorney Scott Gilligan had the opportunity to field and OFFICERS answer questions from members of the Board. Dennis J. Warner, CW21: President [email protected] All committees submitted written reports about the activities and progress of James Sadilek: 1st Vice President [email protected] their groups. Tamara Houk, CW21: 2nd Vice President [email protected] After the Education Committee chairperson, Jerry Faier, made his updates con Matt Henning, CW: Secretary cerning the watch and clock programs the Board of Directors made the following mhenning@ awci.com proclamation: Jack Kurdzionak, CW21: Treasurer jkurdzionak@ awci.com "The Board of Directors recognizes the aggressive effort of AWCI's DIRECTORS clockmaking community in their efforts to advance the clockmaking pro Glenn D. Gardner, CMW fession. We endorse the work of the clock section of the AWCI Education [email protected] Committee to produce a top-notched certification program and will work Roland (Ron) Iverson, CMC to provide full funding for the completed program by the Annual Meeting riverson@ awci.com 2009." Lloyd Lehn, CC llehn@ awci.com The Board approved a motion from the Nominating Committee that set new Doug Stuart criteria for nomination procedures. The "Qualifications & Selection Process" [email protected] will be added to the Policy Manual. Please refer to the PDF file at www.awci.com James K. Zimmerman, CMW, CMC, CMEW then go to "ABOUT" and click on "Policy Manual" to view. jzimmerman@ awci.corn Dan Spath, CMW: Affiliate Chapter Director dspath@ awci.com The Honor Awards Committee also has additions to the Policy Manual that are added and available at the same site. Elbert Lewis, CMW: REC Director elewis@ awci.com Tamara Houk, CW21: lAB Director The lAB (Industry Advisory Board) continues to support the efforts of AWCI thouk@ awci.com through expert advice and financial aid. We are all appreciative of their contri butions. IMMEDIATE PAST PRESIDENT Jim Door [email protected] We have two places for members to visit on the internet to learn about AWCI. FELLOW I mentioned www.awci.com where all aspects of AWCI are presented. The American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute other is a Yahoo group called AWIMatters. This site gives instant information Robert F. Bishop *Harold J. Herman to its members and a voice for all. If you would like to become a member of James H. Broughton J.M. Huckabee that group contact these Directors for instructions: Doug Stuart and Lloyd Lehn by Fred S. Burckhardt Gerald G. Jaeger Alice B. Carpenter *Benjamin Matz using the e-mail addresses listed in this issue of Horological Times on page 23. David A. Christianson Robert A. Nelson George Daniels *Hamilton E. Pease For a detailed account of all meetings visit www.awci.com to read the minutes Wes Door Archie B. Perkins of this and past meetings. *Henry B. Fried Antoine Simonin *Josephine F. Hagans William 0. Smith, Jr. *Orville R. Hagans Milton C. Stevens You can become involved and stay informed by first visiting us through your Ewell D. Hartman *Marvin E. Whitney computer and utilizing the information in the HT in the comfort of your home. •oeceased 2 Horological Times March 2008 The month of March is the first month of the year that the Horological Times goes out to those who renewed their membership with AWCI for 2008. If you have re ceived this issue that means that you have renewed your membership, and I would like to thank you for your membership and your support of AWCI. This past October we sent the 2008 dues renewals to 2,951 members. So far 2,053 have paid. That is a 70% renewal rate. When we add in 86 members who renewed or became members during the months of October through December of 2007, and the 355 life members, we come up with a membership of 2,494. Of the 964 members who haven't renewed, we know that 13 have passed away and 44 have notified us they are canceling their membership. That leaves 897 members that we would like to see renew their membership. I would like to add to President Warner's meeting update by informing our member ship of two motions that were approved by the Board of Directors at the midyear meeting. The following AWCI members have been approved to run for the AWCI Board of Directors in 2008: Gene Bertram, Lowell Fast, Mike Gainey, Roland Iverson, Tom Payne, Doug Thompson, Ernest Tope, Fred White, and Manuel Yazijian. • As a result of the Strategic Action Committee's recommendation, the Finance Committee has been directed to create an expense line in future budgets dedicated to strategic planning. Strategic planning is very important to an organization's exist ence, and of course it's future. Through strategic planning an organization is able to make sure it is providing the benefits that the members want, and to plan the future needs of the organization. My space is limited here; however, next month Chief Examiner, Wes Grau, will provide an update on the activities regarding certification. If you are a Rolex spare parts account holder and you plan to meet the requirements of becoming an AWCI CW21, I can't impress upon you enough to take any classes you may need, or to get registered for your CW21 exam, as soon as possible. Space and testing dates are limited. Don't wait until the last minute. If you have questions don't hesitate to contact Nancy Wellmann at 866-367-2924, ext. 303 or e-mail her at [email protected]. Much of the information you need is available at www.awci.com, such as the Standards and Practices, tool lists, and class and exam schedules. (Check out the dates for classes and exams on page 37 of this issue.) There were a lot of good discussions during this meeting. Following is a quote from Director Doug Stuart regarding how AWCI should be perceived by our members, both present and future, that sums up the weekend. "I want the AWCI to be the kind of organization that reaches out to ALL horologists. If you are serious about your craft, then the AWCI welcomes you! If you are a professional working on modern timepieces, then we have worked with industry to create a path for you to obtain parts. But no matter what you choose to work on, or what level you are in your learning, we can help you become a better watchmaker or clockmaker by promoting standards of professionalism and excellence, and backing it up with training and education that is recognized as the best in the world." Question I am currently working on my thesis at Lititz Watch Technicum and would like to know if you have any information on the watch that I am working on. I have done some research and have found nothing so far. I have a National Park Chronograph. On the main plate there are the numbers 164 and 137 around the balance recess. On the 3/4 bridge there is the number 164. The case number is 116991. Any information you could send me about the manufacturer and time of production would be very helpful. Robert Vignato, Lititz, PA Answer National Park was a brand name used by Gallet & Co. as early as the 1880s. Most of the move ments were made by Jeanneret-Brehm of St. Imier and Le Sentier, a very important chrono graph and sports timer movement maker of the first half of the 20'h century in Switzerland. Gallet's National Park brand was imported into the U.S. by Jules Racine of New York in the mid-1920s and onward. The movement style and finish reflects that which was used in the 1920s and 1930s. Your model watch movement is shown in the 1940s material catalogs but not in the 1920s catalogs. (I do not have any material catalogs of the 1930s to reference.) Spare parts for your movement were still available as late as 1951 (it was listed in the Swartchild & Co. #B500 catalog of 1951 ), but is not shown in any material catalogs after this date. Obviously a reliable source of spare parts was gone at this time. From this informa tion I would conclude that your watch was made in the 1930s by Jeanneret-Brehm for the Gallet Company's National Park brand. Send your questions to: AWCI, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030 or e-mail awci@ awci.com 0 4 Horological Times March 2008 Bringing you all the latest from Bergeon Genuine Bergeon Swiss Made Tools Ergonomic Screwdrivers White luminous Paste Kit The Ultimate Watch Service Kit This new set features 10 different color New genuine Bergeon kit has all you Features 42 specialized tools and coded sizes: 50, 60, 80, 100, 120, 140, need to apply white luminous paste to accessories all in one convenient 160, 200, 250 and 300, each with two watch hands and dials; non-radioactive package. Includes tools for band spare blades. Rubber knurled grips and powder, varnish, thinner, mixing cup and adjustment, hand removal, battery swivel heads provide precision control. applicator. Swiss. Bergeon 5680-B-07. replacement, cleaning, and more. 640.6899 ...... $250 420.310 ...... $32.50 640.6817 ...... $690 Cas·[fu&(!Co. CALL 1.800.487.0408 j.!J 2550 CIVIC CENTER DR PO BOX 31167 CINCINNATI OH 45231-0167 ~~~ur2;~s~?!~~~k~~~m ·~ · March 2008 Horological Times 5 Collectors of fine watches can be a de manding lot. They want not only tech nical excellence from their watches, but something that "sings" to them. They want a watch that speaks to their own aesthetics and ideas of fine watch making. The less off-the-rack and more bespoke, the better. Kari Voutilainen has built his reputation meeting the cri teria of these demanding collectors. The Finnish-born watchmaker has been realizing the dreams of private clients (industry and individuals) for nearly two decades from his workshop in the small Swiss village of Motiers. Much of this work has been done un der the radar. This changed in 2005 when he exhib Voutilainen bevels a chronograph cock for his Chronograph Caliber 25. ited with the AHCI at BaselWorld and debuted his world premier Decimal Re peater-Masterpiece No. 6 (piece unique, 2005). gold and finished in anthracite, yield Beating at 18,000 bph, the movement The cleverness of the mechanism ing a blue-gray color. The Arabic num is based on an old LeCoultre minute (sounding the minutes in ten-minute bers are filled with Luminova, as are repeater, which required the fabrication intervals), his high standard of execu the minute markers. of all of the components necessary to tion and other worldly finish catapulted turn it into a decimal repeater. The fin this humble craftsman into the public While Voutilainen will happily use any ish is superb with expertly executed eye. style of hands the client wishes, the bevels and flat polishing. hands found on MP9 are becoming a This success was followed with bit of a trademark style. Made by Kari, The second watch presented was the MP7-decimal repeater, with second they are crafted from gold and are Observatoire, which is a limited series time zone (piece unique, 2006); his in rhodium-plated with blued steel based on the legendary observatory house chronograph Caliber 25, with inserts-and they are absolutely grade Peseux 260 movement. Made in Carbontime oscillator (series of ten, stunning. limited numbers for more than twenty 2006) and MP8 decimal minute re peater (piece unique, 2007), a busy two years, indeed, and enough for most. Hold on ... There's More BaselWorld 2007 included two new watches from Voutilainen. The first watch was Masterpiece No.9, a unique piece that met a client's desire for a large decimal repeater. Dubbed the "Tantalor," the case is made from 18- karat white gold with the exception of the case band and lugs, which were made from Tantalum and proved to be a stunning combination. Kari made the Case frame of MP9 is case in-house. It measures 45 mm by machined from a solid 11 mm. The dial is engine-turned from block of tantalum. March 2008 Horological Times 7 years, ending in 1970, these move ments were made for precision time keeping and nothing else. With a unique construction that has the escapement (escape wheel and lever) on a lower level than the balance, the balance can now be considerably larger than a typical one in a similarly sized movement, which allows more stable timekeeping, as does its larger barrel allowing a longer mainspring. This ar rangement yields a more even power curve. In addition, the Peseux 260s have the finest mechanical components available, holding the tightest toler ances and finished to the highest me chanical standards. Refinished For all of the efforts put forth in first Burnishing pivots to peifection. class mechanics, the decorative finish was modest to good, but never top shelf. That can't be said now that Voutilainen has had his way with these superb movements. bear the Voutilainen name. This isn't The Peseux 260s were made with a to say that's the whole show here. regulating index on the balance cock Altering the shapes of the bridges and to regulate the timekeeping. This fea cocks, the finish demonstrates the pro While making the movement a thing ture works well for an expert timer/ ficiency in his hand skills that have of beauty, Voutilainen didn't compro adjuster to work magic when adjust been earned through long hours and mise its technical heritage. In fact, he ing the movement for a limited time years of effort. You won't find a more improved it. trial. But a better solution for long-term finely finished watch than those that rate stability is to have a free-sprung balance, as in marine chronometers, es pecially when precision timekeeping is the goal. Considering this, Voutilainen changed the movement to a free-sprung system and incorporated a little-used inner ter minal curve for the hairspring point of attachment to the collet, as prescribed by Grossman to reduce positional errors. MP9 's movement is fitted to handmade tan talum case. Once the fit is correct, includ ing operation of repeater slide, final shap ing of lugs and finish begin. 8 Horological Times March 2008 The Observatoire is an aesthetic and technical beauty, which seems to be a running theme with all ofVoutilainen's BULLETIN watches, and it brings us full circle: the Observatoire be gan because Voutilainen was willing to entertain the idea BOARD of creating a time-only movement finished to his stan dard for a collector who wanted something special. However, because Kari is Kari, he took it to another level, RESPONSES not only in finishing but also by providing a technical Sonix IV Ultrasonic Cleaner watch. As it worked out, it was agreed upon by watch Stan Stash, New Stanton, PA, has responded to Charles maker and collector that the idea of making one watch for Goad's search for a schematic for a Sonix IV Ultrasonic one collector should be turned into a small series. Why not spread the "special" around! Cleaner. Curtis D. Thomson is a watchmaker in Walpole, NH spe Do you have information regarding this month's requests? Do cializing in complications and restoring antiquarian you need information about one of this month's responses? If so, pieces. He is also the founder of "tempered" send your information or requests to: Horological Times Bulletin Board; 701 Enterprise Drive; Harrison, OH 45030-1696; Toll-Free: (www.tempered-online.com), which provides a platform 1-866-367-2924, ext. 307; Phone: (513) 367-9800; Fax: (513) 367- for the artists-craftsmen represented on the site. 1414; E-mail: [email protected] 0 0 From Vibrograf® wATcH-MAsTER n ... the leading watch equipment supplier in the USA WATCH-MATIC Ill 8 Versatile Quartz Watch Rate Recorder for mechanical Timer and Analyzer. watches with amplitude test Recommended by Leading Adjustable supply voltage. featUJ·e. New Vario Technology Watch Manufacturers that averages reading. IlluminateCL display. Dry Water Proof Tester Tests large watches Quality Products backed by SM-8850 au coma tically. Dependable Service. 10-20-30 Bar models available. Contact Ph: 516.437.8700 Vibrograf USA Fax: 516.437.8708 March 2008 Horological Times 9 OSU-Okmulgee Watchmaking student Anthony Peca from Dallas, Texas (middle), instructor Jason Zeigenbein (right) and student Kevin Tuck,from League City, Texas (left). OSU-Okmulgee Watchmaking Program Receives $1 Million Grant from Rolex Oklahoma State University Established in 1946, the OSU Charles Berthiaume, Senior Vice Okmulgee's highly recognized watch Okmulgee program has developed an President for Technical Operations at making program is moving into a new excellent reputation both locally and Rolex Watch U.S.A. "We look forward era thanks to the backing and gener nationally in serving the needs of the to partnering with the university and osity of Rolex, the world's premier watchmaking industry. the American Watchmakers-Clock name in watches. With a $1 million, makers Institute to develop a program five-year commitment, Rolex has "Rolex values the long-standing edu which provides the specialized tech become the exclusive underwriter of cational commitment that OS U nical skills that are needed to support the OSU-Okmulgee Watchmaking Okmulgee has made to the watchmak the growing luxury watch market and Microtechnology program. ing profession in the U.S.," states worldwide." 10 Horological Times March 2008 Dr. Robert Klabenes, President of OSU-Okmulgee, says the decision by Rolex to become the exclusive indus try financial underwriter of OSU Okmulgee's watchmaking program provides the university the opportu nity to fulfill its long-standing goal of offering a true world-class program. "Rolex is not only the largest single luxury watch brand in the world, but it is also the brand most widely rec ognized and held in the highest es teem. Our students, faculty and staff feel both privileged and humbled by Rolex' s decision to partner with our program. This is an historic step." OSU-Okmulgee's watchmaking pro gram offers intense and broad train ing in this challenging art. The school's curriculum is specifically tai lored to prepare students for success in the watchmaking profession of to day and tomorrow. In two years, stu dents develop comprehensive skills and knowledge that enable them to di agnose, service and repair a wide range of watch movements, refinish watch cases and bracelets and consult customers according to the highest OSU-Okmulgee Photo by Chip Lim industry standards. This learning is supported with the acquisition of es sential workshop organization skills. as a very respected watchmaking Rolex has led the industry in provid Graduates of the OSU-Okmulgee school such as OSU-Okmulgee," says ing funding for the training and edu watchmaking program find gainful Lubic. "Both are well-known in the cation of skilled watchmakers since employment throughout the watch in field of horology, and AWCI is pleased 2000 when it established a grant of dustry: in watch brand service centers, that our industry-recognized certifica $1 million over five years to North independent service centers, and high tion will be the standard for the final Seattle Community College in Wash end retailers. exam. We look forward to working ington, renewing the grant in 2005. In with Rolex to develop a state-of-the 2001, Rolex established its own Lititz Jim Lubic, Executive Director of art program." Watch Technicum, a not-for-profit American Watchrnakers-Clockmakers foundation that has already graduated Institute (AWCI), has been on the OSU-Okmulgee utilizes the AWCI more than 50 watchmakers for the in OSU-Okmulgee Watchmaking Advi CW21 TM course of study, designed dustry. Additionally, in 2004, Rolex sory Board for many years and indi specifically to develop the type of pledged a $1 million, five-year grant cates he has always been impressed skilled craftsman needed to service to support the Saint Paul College with the high quality of the facilities high-grade watches. The culmination watchmaking program in Minnesota. and the university's support of the pro of the students' studies will be Beyond its extensive investment in gram. Lubic says Rolex's involvement AWCI's industry-recognized Certified watchmaking education in the U.S., will benefit a program known for the Watchmaker 21™ exam. OSU Rolex also operates the Tokyo Watch quality and success of its students. "It Okmulgee's industry-driven inte Technicum in Japan, as well as the will be a real pleasure for AWCI to grated associate degree program en Rolex Training Centre in Mumbai, collaborate with a highly acclaimed sures that graduates are well-rounded, India. watch company such as Rolex as well professional watchmakers. 0 March 2008 Horological Times 11 Dealing with Escape Wheel Problems Part 2 By David J. LaBounty, CMC, FBHI Drawing Escape Wheel Teeth realized when drawing all of the teeth but this must be Bent teeth and tooth tip damage can be corrected with a balanced with the need to do so. If only one tooth re process which involves pulling the teeth straight. This quires attention, it is not an advantage to draw all of the process, called drawing, is done by gripping the tooth with teeth. Conversely, if there are very few teeth which don't the jaw of the pliers and pulling the pliers off of the tooth need attention, better results will be had by getting in a while simultaneously gently squeezing the pliers. (See rhythm and drawing them all. Figure 9.) Planish the Teeth The amount of pressure applied to the tooth while draw Another technique, which can be used in conjunction with ing is as important as the attitude and direction of the pull. drawing, is called planishing. (See Figure 10.) Lightly Too much jaw pressure against the tooth will raise a burr hammering on the sides of the teeth with a glancing blow on the outer edge causing significant thinning and weak will harden, flatten, and stretch the teeth as well as smooth ening ofthe tooth. Too little pressure and the tooth won't out any burrs caused by the drawing process. This should straighten. This process will also stretch the tooth slightly, be done with a brass hammer so as not to leave marks on which is advantageous in the case of a short tooth. Hold the rim of the wheel or tooth. Good technique and sup ing the pliers in a somewhat less than square attitude will port is as important for planishing as it is for drawing. cause a twist in the tooth, visible at its tip. The direction The direction and force of the blow must be carefully con of the pull should be parallel to the flat face of the escape trolled so as not to cause damage to the wheel or teeth. wheel tooth. Note that this direction isn't always radial! This technique will work best if done with plenty of sup port and in a consistent manner. Very good results will be Figure 9. Drawing escape wheel teeth to straighten. Note Figure 10. Planishing the escape wheel teeth. Light, glancing The work is being well supported. blows will flatten, harden, and slightly stretch the teeth. 12 Horological Times March 2008 Figure 12. Use the impression to compare the spacing of the teeth on the rest of the escape wheel. Figure 11. Make an impression in the Rodico™ of a section of good teeth to use as an indexing reference. Blows which are too aggressive will cause the wheel to Indexing the Teeth become severely out-of-round, so be light handed. Watch The evenness of tooth spacing is difficult to visualize with for the changes in the surface of the teeth rather than just out something to use as a reference. Teeth that are grossly blindly bashing. Care should be taken to use the flat face bent out of position will be fairly evident, but those that of the hammer and not catch an edge which will leave a are bent gradually or at the root may be more difficult to dent in the wheel. identify. An easy and quick method to visually identify teeth that are poorly indexed is by using Rodico™, a clay The blows of the hammer should be glancing and in a like material, to make an impression of a good area of direction parallel to the flat face of the tooth. This will teeth. (See Figure 11.) This impression can then be used keep the tooth straight and minimize indexing errors. Sup as a reference for the rest ofthe wheel. (See Figure 12.) port the wheel on a bench block and get in a rhythm as the Examine the teeth under magnification and true any which wheel is rotated. As with drawing, planishing the whole are poorly indexed. wheel will produce the best results. Sometimes it is nec essary to flip the wheel and planish the other side as well, but too much will distort the wheel. HERMLE * URGOS * KIENINGER * REGULA* H.HERR * RHYTHM PARTS* TOOLS* SUPPLIES Jloclt lortst\.!7 ,mportsrnc. 1·(8001824·0900 Replacement Movements & More! Your Reliable Clock, Movement & Parts Source Since 1981 -Call for Free Price List • Visit Our Online Catalog: WWW.BLACKFORESTIMPORTS.COM Pt•lt•rJJc:kl March 2008 Horological Times 13 Tip Escape Wheel Teeth to True With all of the drawing, planishing, bending, and straight ening of the teeth it is very likely they are now different lengths. In order to bring the escape wheel back to true following these processes, or round up a slightly oblong wheel, it will be necessary to accurately tip the teeth. This should be done before the pivots are polished since you must chuck up on the pivots for accuracy. (See Figure 13.) Note: If a wheel is extremely out-of-round, it may be better to remount it. Also, it may be necessary once the wheel has been rounded up, to file back the thicker tooth tips so they are consistent. There are several different methods of tipping the escape Figure 13. Turning the escape wheel on the pivots will offer wheel teeth depending on the tools available-but in all the highest degree of accuracy when tipping the escape wheel cases, support is the key. The following are just a few teeth. examples: Figure 16. Tipping the escape wheel teeth with a screw feed Figure 14. Using a file and T-rest to machine the escape wheel cross slide. to true. (There are better ways.) Figure 17. Tipping with a lever feed cross slide. Note the stop Figure 15. Using a hand graver to tip the escape wheel to true. limiter at arrow which allows control of how much material is removed. 14 Horological Times March 2008 1. File and T-rest method-(See Figure 14.) This method wheel teeth. This will preserve the acting face of the tooth doesn't require expensive tooling but it does require a care when the burrs are removed. ful touch. Even a slight slip of the hand could cause severe damage to the escape wheel teeth. It involves rest Only remove as much material as necessary. Watch for ing the file on the T-rest and rocking it into the escape teeth that show dark tips. This will indicate a tooth which wheel teeth. A careful adjustment of the T-rest is impor is too short and that more machining is needed. The ma tant so as to offer as much support as possible. There are chined teeth will show up bright and shiny at the tips, a number of disadvantages to this method but an inability while the short teeth will be dark and dull. (See Figure to accurately limit the amount of material removed from 18.) Once every tooth shows a bright tip, the wheel is the teeth is the biggest drawback. round. Not every tip must be totally machined, however. If there is only one tooth remaining which shows a slight 2. Hand graver method-(See Figure 15.) Slightly bet machine line, the wheel can be considered true. (See Fig ter than filing, this method allows you to see how much ure 19.) It is better to stop machining at this point rather material you are removing from the escape wheel teeth. It than remove too much material. still lacks the ability to accurately regulate how much material is removed however. The hand graver should be Once the teeth have been machined true, examine the tips sharp and properly supported on the T-rest. The T-rest for twisting. (See Figure 20.) This is usually caused when must have a smooth surface to allow unimpeded travel of drawing the teeth straight and is a symptom of the pliers the graver and it should be properly presented to the es not being held square with the teeth. This condition must cape wheel. 3. Cross slide method-(See Figures 16 & 17.) The most accurate method of tipping the escape wheel teeth is with the use of a cross slide. Either a screw feed or a lever feed (with stops) cross slide will allow you to see how much material is removed with the added advantage of limiting how much material is taken off. A properly shaped and sharpened tool bit is a must! Regardless of which method is used, there are certain pro Figure 19. cedures to follow when tipping the escape wheel teeth. The wheel can be considered true The wheel should be machined in a direction such that when the last dark the burr occurs on the non-working face of the escape tooth on the wheel just barely shows a bright spot. Figure 20. Figure 18. A twisted tooth Looking through tip. This is a loupe, probably due to machined teeth faulty technique will show a during the bright tooth tip drawing pro (bottom) while cess. Following short teeth will be tipping, these dark (top). Dark twisted teeth teeth indicate should be more machining straightened. is needed. March 2008 Horological Times 15 be corrected for the escape wheel to function properly. Simply twist the tip of the tooth with the pliers until it is straight. Figure 23. Once all of De-Burring the Escape Wheel Teeth the drawing, planish Once the escape wheel teeth have been tipped, they will ing, indexing, tipping, be left with a slight burr which must be removed. One of buffing, and filing is the quickest and easiest ways to do this is to spin the es done, the damaged cape wheel on the buffer. (See Figure 21.) Present the teeth should look side edge of the escape wheel to a brass bristle buffing much better. wheel. A brass wheel is used so as not to damage the brass escape wheel. Let the escape wheel spin in the fin An added benefit of spinning the wheel on the buffer is gers with just enough pressure on the shaft to give slight that it removes the particulates embedded in the teeth resistance but with enough control that the escape wheel which cause ruts in the pallets. The particulates are steel can't get away. If the buffer grabs the wheel and tears it (from the pallets themselves), dirt, and dried oil. Since out of our fingers ... the brass is softer than the steel particulates, the steel be comes embedded in the working surface of the teeth cre ating a charged lap. To reduce the amount of future wear on the pallets, the escape wheel should have these par ticulates removed even if not de-burring. The burrs can also be removed with a file if a buffer isn't available or if spinning doesn't completely remove the burrs. (See Figure 22.) Support the wheel and use a con sistent motion when filing. That may mean you have to count your filing strokes in order to be able to dress each escape wheel equally. Feel the back of the tooth with a fingernail to be sure the burr is completely gone. Check the Indexing One Last Time Check the spacing between the teeth again using Rodico. It is possible for a tooth to be bumped during all of the Figure 21. De-burring the escape wheel teeth by spinning on handling and it is preferable to be sure everything is cor the buffer. Note a brass brush is used to prevent damage to the rect before the escape wheel is in the movement. Make wheel. any adjustments necessary. Final Results Polish the escape wheel pivots and then take one last look through the loupe at the escape wheel teeth. The idea is to have improved the quality of the teeth and not cause more damage. (See Figure 23.) Once the escape wheel is installed, be prepared to make adjustments to the escape ment drops. Drawing and planishing will lengthen the teeth but not always enough to compensate for tipping. When it is all done, sit back and enjoy the results! Special thanks to Jerry Faier, CMC, for his training and expertise. Most, if not all, of the techniques described in this article are from Mr. Faier's apprenticeship training. Any mistakes or inaccuracies are mine. Figure 22. Removing burrs by filing. Use consistent strokes to Dedicated to Charles Baldwin, CMC, who passed away be sure each tooth is treated the same and support, support, October 12, 2004--a great man of God and a good friend. support. We miss you Charles. 0 16 Horological Times March 2008 ~ 706 S. Hill St., #580 Tel: (213) 622-1687 Los Angeles, CA 90014 SMITH SUPPLY HOUSE Fax: (213) 488-0922 LOS ANGELES Watch Materials, Supplies & Tools Watch Battery Distributor MAINSPRING WINDERS TO FIT LADY'S ROLEX CAL. 1400/2030/2035/2130/2135/2230/2235 MAN'S ROLEX CAL. 1530/3035/3135 $59.75 each SMITH SUPPLY HOUSE IS NOT AFFILIATED WITH OR SPONSORED BY ROLEX WATCH U.S.A. THE ROLEX WARRANTY DOES NOT APPLY TO GENERIC REPLACEMENT PARTS SUPLIED BY SMITH SUPPLY HOUSE. YOUR SUPPLIER OF SPARE PARTS FOR ALL BRANDS OF I VI~ I MECHANICAL AND QUARTZ WATCHES, CLOCKS AND ALARMS CALL TOLL FREE (800) 23-SMITH 3~ VISIT OUR WEB SITES www.smithsupplyhouse.com & www.watchpartonline.com March 2008 Horological Times 17 Do You Reuse Old Q-Tips™? I Part 1 By Manuel Yazijian, CMW21 Every now and then, someone makes a bold statement, etc., essentially softer metals than the parts from which the public is shocked, the critics are aplenty and certain the movement is made of. people are outraged ... or perhaps "false outrage" would be the correct term. The following article could very well 2. They must have dressed their screwdrivers to such a be one of them. I advise the reader to be cautious as there shape that did not leave any burrs or deformations on the are a number of, what some believe to be, very shocking screw heads and screw slots-a very important functional statements in the ensuing paragraphs. I ask the reader to as well as aesthetic aspect. have an open mind and be patient as better methods are eventually revealed. I am positive you will like them. 3. They must have been really careful with their lubri cation process. Hence the reason why a new watch that As a matter of introduction, it would be worthy to note has never been serviced before requires a minimum of 5 that in the world of Quality Control (Q.C.), one has to years before it needs its first service. Therefore, they surely decide how much attention they must pay to detail. The must not have left unnecessary residues in the watchcase less Q.C. points existing in a production line, the poorer or on/in the movement for the watch to perform so well quality the final product will usually possess. In a nut for so long. shell, it would be safe to say that Q.C. is fundamentally essential for elevating our standards, our reputation and 4. They probably used methods of cleaning up their ultimately our financial well-being. accidents (they are human after all) that are possibly different from that which is currently employed in the In watch (or clock) repair, the reference to Q.C. is impor after-sales service (i.e. watch repair sector), which is the tant from the angle of emulating factory assembly proce main focus of this article. dures. If the watch repairer wants trouble free operation of the movement, he or she must try to put him or herself Pride in Profession, Trapped in Our Ways in the factory in which that particular movement origi There are many out there who take extreme pride in their nated and therefore ask yourself the questions. work and profession, and rightly so. Many of us believe that most of what we do and many of the things we were Question taught are essentially correct, after all, the watch or clock "What steps, procedures and processes were used in the began to "tick, tock" after we "cleaned" it. We are thrilled, production of this movement?" the customer is thrilled and the story ends happily ever after. Not always true. Without using any fancy words, Although it is not always possible for the repair person to I'll get straight to the crux of this article. know what the assembly person did in the factory, and what exact steps of production were used all the way up How many of you are using the green (or blue) putty-like to final assembly, nonetheless it does not hurt to be in substance, also known as Rodico™ or Rub-OffTM respec quisitive. By asking yourselves the question above, you tive! y, to clean dust, lint, or fingerprints off of your move might eventually arrive at the answer with a stroke of ment parts, dials, etc.? imagination. I can see many raised hands. I too am raising my hand; Answers but there is a big difference in the way I (and many of my The answers could be along the lines of: former students, I hope) are using Rodico & Ruboff. 1. They must have used tweezers that did not leave any We re-evaluated our methods with regards to Rodico and marks on the movement, probably brass, bronze, nickel, Ruboff and began using it with a slightly different method. 18 Horological Times March 2008 The reason is the simple fact that we believe more harm is being done to watches during the actual "cleaning" or "overhaul" process by well-meaning but unsuspecting watchmakers than normal wear and tear alone will do. TOLL FREE PH: 866-655-3155 For the uninitiated, Rodico and Ruboff were designed to TOLL FREE PH: 877-608-3347 help remove the accidental drop of oil, fingerprint smudge, TOLL FREE FAX: 866-211-2550 lint and other matter from the newly cleaned surfaces of a - PMB #888 watch movement, dial, etc. Also, it still seems to be a fac 1480 TERRELL MILL RD, STE. F "'-"'C¥.o>JITrP9SOfSullont1J C..\< MARIETTA, GA 30067 tory recommended method of cleaning off the metal chips ~~l ETA 901.001 $ 14.50 ETA955.112 $ 17.95 ETA956.112 $ 17.95 ETA 976.001 $ 43.50 364, SR621SW $ 0.19 CR2016 $ 0.32 LR-43 $ 0.14 AA $ 0.35 At this point, I would like to mention that both Rodico and Ruboff are excellent products in their own rights. The aim of this article is to show the reader alternative meth ods of using certain products to derive the maximum out put and most desirable results. The Standard Operating Procedure (S.O.P.) To the best of my knowledge, the "standard" and "offi cial" method of using Rodico and Ruboff, among the gen eral watchmaker population, has been as follows: 1. Tear a piece of Rodico/Ruboff with your fingers or your bench knife. Dome, 2MM, 65 PCS $ 85.00 2. Grab the piece you tore/cut off with your fingers (usu Flat, .75MM, 190 PCS $ 75.00 ally held between thumb and forefinger). 3. Touch the offending part with the piece of Rodico/ Ruboff and remove the lint, dust, oil, fingerprint, etc. 1 YEAR WARRANTY ON ALL PRODUCTS I am sure many of you will agree with the above method FREE FEDEX GROUND SHIPPING FOR ORDERS OVER $100 described thus far. QUANTITY DISCOUNTS OFFERED In addition, we were told that in order to "rejuvenate" the Rodico/Ruboff, all we had to do was to "knead" or "fold" SALES REPS REQUIRED it unto itself to "clean" it. So the next step would be ... March 2008 Horological Times 19 4. Knead Rodico/Ruboff until smooth and reuse over and Yes, you are reading correctly, #6 is the same as #l-as I over until it cleans the item no more. cannot emphasize this point enough. 5. Most watchmakers have a tendency to save the gooey and sticky piece of Rodico/Ruboff on the bench to clean If you raised your eyebrow, held your chin, scratched your oiler tips, screwdriver tips, etc. head and are wondering about the above statements then let's step back in time for a minute. Shocking Statements As promised, here are the shocking statements .. . CFCs Punch a Hole in the Ozone Layer, Doctors Promote Cigarettes ... 1. I WILL NOT HOLD Rodico/Ruboff WITH MY • Did you know that in the not too distant past, CFCs BARE FINGERS [2 & 3]. were used as spray can propellants? (Escaped Chlorof 2. I WILL NOT USE Rodico/Ruboff to touch pivots, luorocarbons, normally found in refrigerators, spray cans, arbors, etc. [4]. air conditioners, etc., are one of the key culprits for disin 3. I WILL NOT USE Rodico/Ruboff to clean watch jew tegrating the protective ozone layer in our atmosphere.) els, (with or without oil) [4]. 4. I WILL NOT USE Rodico/Ruboff to touch oily parts • Did you also know that in the not too distant past, [4]. cigarette companies used doctors to advertise their prod 5. I WILL NOT USE Rodico/Ruboff to clean the tip of ucts for them? my stick/spade oilers [5]. 6. I WILL NOT HOLD Rodico/Ruboff WITH MY • Did you know that some watchmakers used potas BARE FINGERS. sium cyanide (lethal poison), carbon tetrachloride (known 20 Horological Times March 2008 carcinogen), among others, to clean watch movements? this cause a functional issue in the watch? Absolutely. Some watchmakers might secretly still be using them in A severely contaminated ball of Rodico/Ruboff can cor some dark comer of our universe (scary thought). rode key critical and sensitive components as well as con taminate lubricants, which will lead to premature drying Times have changed; forward thinking minds prevailed of oils and eventual stoppage or simply poor performance. and we try to make the world a better place to live- "try" is the operative word here at least. Rodico/Ruboff is not to blame; it is the method in which we had been using it that has quite often led to poor ap Some of you are thinking, "Surely Rodico/Ruboff is not pearance and ultimately even poorer performance. dangerous to my health or the environment?" Of course not, at least not to my knowledge, but from the way I In next month's issue you will be shown how to correctly have seen some watchmakers use it, it is definitely not use Rodico/Ruboff; a few methods that I am positive you conducive for good quality work. In fact, when improp will like and adopt for all future use. erly used, it is quite detrimental to the good functioning 0 of the movement, its appearance and final finish. Cleaning What Exactly? Rule #1 & #6: "I will not hold Rodico/Ruboff with my bare fingers." But your response is-"Utter nonsense! I have been touch ing Rodico/Ruboff with my bare fingers all my life and I have had no problems at all." Let me ask you this then, "If Rodico/Ruboff is designed to clean and remove oils, etc., from watch parts, then what is the first thing it cleans?" You guessed right-your fin gers! Each time you grab the Rodico/Ruboff with your fingers you clean your fingers of all the bodily oils, dead skin, etc., before you even have a chance to clean the QUICK/Fil movement parts. WATCH MATERIALS FROM Here you are, doing what you were taught to do, a simple Eckcells trick and technique of using a "modem" product and all 379 Main St. Stoneham, MA 02180 this time you were slapping all that grime from your fin 1-800-514-1270 [email protected] gers back on the bridges, dials, hands, etc. Surely you BALL BEARINGS, NO PROBLEM must have noticed how Rodico/Ruboff will no longer clean ECKCELLS WILL REPLACE WORN LOCK RING BALL BEARINGS a certain part as well as it did when you used a new piece? WITH GENUINE ETA MATERIAL IN THESE CALIBERS In some extreme cases, when Rodico/Ruboff is in direct ETA n5o ...... $18.95 contact with oils and greases, it will actually become ETA 2892 ...... $29.95 sticky and gooey, therefore severely contaminating jewel ETA 2000 ...... $29.95 bearings and the like if wrongly used in these specific locations. SEND THE ROTOR TO US AND WE WILL FIT THE NEW BALL BEARING WITH OUR HORIA EQUIPMENT Is it possible that Rodico/Ruboff is acting like a sponge AND RETURN IT TO YOU READY TO INSTALL WITH NO FUSS AND NO SCRATCHES or a cotton ball which can no longer absorb any more liquid when fully saturated? And if you were using a ball ALSO AVAILABLE ofRodico/Ruboffwhich has absorbed a good deal of sweat FRICTION FIT BALL BEARINGS from your fingers to clean jewels, pivots, wheels and other YOU CAN USE IN THESE CALIBERS moving parts ... need I say more? ETA 2671 ...... $9.95 ETA 2824-2 ...... $9.95 Who is to Blame? ETA 2836-2 ...... $9.95 By now, you might be thinking, "/ didn't realize I was imparting some of my DNA on the movement parts. " Will ~ I VISA I March 2008 Horological Times 21 AWCI Honor Awards Nominations The Honor Awards Committee would like your help in finding applicants who fulfill the requirements for the achievement awards given out at the AWCI Convention and Educational Symposium held in August. The awards are: AWCI Fellow Award This is AWCI's most prestigious award. It carries the endorsement of one's peers as an outstanding member of the Horological Community. The person must have these qualities: • Tangible evidence of leadership abilities • Active participation chairing or serving on committees • Publication of articles in horological publications • Given lectures, workshops and technical demonstrations Outstanding Achievement Award Recognized for outstanding personal achievements or accomplishments such as projects, inventions, or innovative or creative ideas that meet a need in the field of Horology. Meritorious Service Award Awarded to a person who has made a significant contribution to AWCI and its members. The Honor Awards nomination form must be received by the Honor Awards Com mittee Chairperson by May 1, 2008. Please e-mail the Honor Awards Committee at awardscomm@ awci.com with any questions or concerns. The Honor Awards nomination form can be downloaded from the AWCI website (www.awci.com) or you can request a copy by contacting AWCI at 866-367-2924. Honor Awards Committee Chair James Sadilek Members Wes Door, CMW Gerald Kincaid Elbert Lewis, CMW Dan Spath, CMW 22 Horological Times March 2008 In Remembrance AWCI has been notified of the passing of ' the following members: . CALIFORNIA 1De~f!1jJ Decker, Richard A. - San Jose, CA Grass, John - Redwood City, CA Wholesale Jeweler & Watchmaker Supplies Since 1969 CONNECTICUT 830.800 Red "I" Blackwell, Dana J.- Naugatuck, CT Case Back Gaskets Red "I" gaskets are used by Omega, ~ KANSAS Gucci and ocher wacch companies. This case back gaskec assonmem Sutton, Lionel- Ottawa, KS comains thiny pieces and is Swiss made. Order refills by size or stock number. MASSACHUSETIS Price $51 . 95 Swett, Alan M.- Milton , MA MISSOURI Emrich, Oran S. - Kansas City, MO 30211 Bergeon OHIO Lingenfelter, Jacque R. - Loudonville, OH Movement Holder for Pocket Watches This reversible pocket watch metal PENNSYLVANIA holder will hold most pocket size Zimmerman, John D. - York, PA movements up to 73mm in diam eter. Swiss made. Just $56.55 AWCI Directors' E-mail Address Directory CAT-BERGEON Bergeon Catalog The new Bergeon Tool Cacalog Director AWCI E-mail Address contains over 1,200 pages of some of the best tools for the watch repair Dennis Warner: President dwamer@ awci.com industry. This new hard covered, James Sadilek: 1st Vice President jsadilek@ awci.com 3-ring binder contains over 20,000 items, 4,700 pictures and 800 tech Tamara Houk: 2nd Vice President [email protected] nical drawings. The information is provided in French, German, Eng Matt Henning: Secretary mhenning@ awci.com lish and Spanish. Included are color pages of some of che newest items Jack Kurdzionak: Treasurer jkurdzionak@ awci.com debuted at the Basel Fair. Glenn D. Gardner ggardner@ awci.com $95.93 Roland (Ron) Iverson riverson@ awci .com Lloyd Lehn llehn@ awci.com Phone Orders: (800) 476-2715 Doug Stuart [email protected] Fax Orders: (800) 476-8016 James Zimmerman [email protected] Email: [email protected] Dan Spath: Affiliate Chapter Director [email protected] Online Catalog: www.Livesayslnc.com ;, ~f::;;::_~ Elbert Lewis: REC Director [email protected] ;)f.IJ ~:.. ~i;; ·::~ "'*·'•_j- _,. Tamara Houk: lAB Director [email protected] Prices are in effect until Marc h 31. 2008 or until supplies are depleted March 2008 Horological Times 23 Small Shop Satisfactions I politely refuse trade work except for two small accounts, Chris Carey, president of the Massachusetts Watchrnak which I keep because of a long personal history. I know ers-Clockmakers Association, sent the following letter in that everybody is different and that trade work is a good response to two recent articles in this column. Chris is fit for many watchmakers but my business has developed keeping a family tradition of watchmaking alive in the another way." Greater Boston area. His maternal grandfather, the late Pat Caruso, was one of the best and most respected watch Trade Work makers in eastern Massachusetts until he passed away in AWCI member, Jon Horton, from Oklahoma also has some 2002 at the age of 92. Pat went to work for the Waltham thoughts about trade work to share. Jon wrote: Watch Company in 1927 and remained with that com pany and its successor companies until they finally closed "Jack, I have been self-employed in the service industry in the late 1980s. Watchmakers and watch collectors rec for 37 years, the first 15 was in auto service, the last 22 in ognized Pat as "The Authority" on Waltham, its history, watch repair. The phrase "trade shop" has always baffled and its products. During his years of employment there, me. It is a tradition in watchmaking, but is a bad business he worked in almost every department in the plant and practice if it is done improperly. knew and remembered many of the employees. In his later years, he passed his considerable skill and knowledge over All service work must be done to the owner's profit stan to his grandson, Chris Carey, who now operates his own dards. A very good example is when I send a watch to the independent watch and clock repair shop in Watertown, manufacturer and they tell me what it will cost. Do they MA. Chris Carey wrote: give me a discount or do they tell me what the suggested mark up should be? Did they miss their profit mark be "Dear Jack, I am writing to you in response to the articles cause I sent the watch to them and they like me so much you wrote about retail vs. trade work with a little aside to that they are willing to take less money? Each job and your holistic watch repair article as well. I prefer the re each client must make a profit no matter what you call it. tail end of watch repair to the trade work mainly because of the social interaction and the personal satisfaction. I The best definition I have heard of success is "doing what like to meet the owner of the watch and understand his or you love to do for as long as you want to do it." Without her expectations. I think holistic watch repair is not only consistent profit, you will be stopped from doing what repairing the whole watch but also knowing how the owner you love by debt or bankruptcy." is going to use it and understanding what he or she wants it to do. Holistic watch repair also involves educating the Not a Minute Wheel Problem owner about how the watch works and what it is capable Watchmakers servicing antique Waltham pocket watches of. I get a lot of personal satisfaction from interacting with such as the 1892, 1894, and 1899 models, which range in my customers. I get many questions such as what are jew size from 12 to 18, sometimes find that the minute wheel els, what is a Breguet hairspring, what are positions, what lifts away from the main plate while setting the hands. is a bimetallic balance. In answering these questions, the When this occurs, some assume that there is something beauty of the watch becomes evident and the customer wrong with the dial train itself, but the actual cause is the either walks away confused or is hooked. When the re cannon pinion's setting friction. The problem presents it pair work is done on a pocket watch I always open the self as one turns the crown to set the hands; the setting back up and show the customer the nice motion of the function is irregular as the minute wheel intermittently balance wheel, the beautiful blue steel of the hairspring engages and disengages with the cannon pinion. These breathing and we listen to the ticking. It is a rewarding watches have no minute wheel clamp or set bridge to hold sound. Retail customers pay more money, as they should the minute wheel close to the plate and keep it engaged because they require more time away from the bench. with the cannon pinion at all times. This situation can usu However, it is not necessarily wasted time. I cannot take ally be remedied by opening the cannon pinion with a this to the bank but getting the positive feedback from smoothing broach to reduce the setting friction. Test the happy customers and being a part of a community as a setting, both clockwise and counterclockwise. If the retail shop in a town square are rewards that money can minute wheel still disengages while setting, continue open not buy. ing the cannon pinion until the friction is reduced to the 24 Horological Times March 2008 point that the minute wheel no longer disengages while Water-resistant watches that range in water resistance rat setting the hands. Be sure to lubricate the cannon pinion ing from 3-20 ATM are suitable for a wide range of con after the friction is properly adjusted. These watches have ditions from rainstorms to recreational SCUBA diving. no calendar complications that require extra cannon pin None of these watches need, or are fitted, with helium ion friction. The cannon pinion only needs enough fric valves. Generally, watches suitable for everyday wear do tion to safely carry the hands without slipping. not require a helium valve. However, watches, designed Jack Kurdzionak for use in a helium rich, high-pressure environment, need to be fitted with a helium valve. All gases, including ordi Diffusion Confusion nary atmospheric gases such as oxygen, nitrogen, and Watches designed for use by professional divers have now carbon dioxide all slowly diffuse (pass through a barrier) entered the retail mainstream of watches available for sale. from a place of high concentration to one of lower con These watches are characterized by being equipped with centration, so that gradually the concentration of the gases non-reflecting, coated sapphire crystals, crowns that screw is the same on each side of the barrier. Small, lightweight down onto the case tube, substantial case construction gas molecules such as helium and hydrogen not only dif designed to withstand external water pressures of 30 ATM fuse, but also diffuse at a much faster rate than gases with or higher, and helium release valves. Over the years, watch larger, heavier molecules. You probably can remember makers have become accustomed to servicing all types of having a helium-filled balloon. When freshly filled with crowns, crystals, and case constructions and now must helium, the balloon surface is taught and the balloon will become familiar with the helium release valve. Why do rapidly rise to the ceiling in a room. After several hours, some diver's watches have the valve? What does it do? the balloon's skin seems to sag a bit and the balloon rises Does it require periodic service? to the ceiling more slowly. Finally, after a few more hours, EVERY DAY VALUES FOR THE WATCHMAKER ... D) Bergeon Screwdrivers A Set of 9 on Rotating Stand Beautifully made precision screwdrivers in 9 sizes (0.50, 0.60, 0.80, 1.00, fW ~ ~:.-..-- - '"' ;...' """' . , ...., ~ Q.:- e r: : '" :. 1.20, 1.40, 1.60, 2.00 and 2.50mm) . Color coded for size and hos an . -:-·: - ; ~ .- extra blade in center compartment. Swivel heads and knurled handles with 1 -:-· ~..: l! . • ·-..:1 set screws to keep blades tight, Quality Swiss Made. .. - ~ .: ~ _.F iiI SD5970 Set of nine $76.95 -~ A) Our Best Selling "0" Ring Gasket Assortment E) Screwdriver in Rotating Stand F) No Lint Watch Tissue 4 eo of 36 popolor diameter; 14.50 to 32.00 and widths .40 ·.50· .60. This set of nine premium, color-coded set-screwdriver; includes 19 spore Unt.free, anti-tarnish, 4·1 / 4• stjuore fissues for WTopping and cleoning EK36·4 Refills available $46.95 blades and 2 extra set·screws. watch ports, jewelry etc. SD980 Set of 9 in rotofing stand $48.25 PA 144 Box of 1000 sheets SI D.6S B) Aluminum Case Holder with Four Pins G) Standard Series- "Triple Duty" Repair Envelopes Cose holder with plastic covered pins accommodates most sizes. Each numbered envelope has two numbered detachable stubs; one for the MV175 $6.65 customer and the other for filing. lay·away schedule on bock. Each envelope MV176 Set of 4 replacement pins 1.90 is 5·3/4" x 3·1/8". Standard kraft paper. When ordering specify numerical series. Boxes of 1000 per series, $49.95. () Energizer Watch Battery Testers Series II Item# Series# Item# 2 models to choose from. Tests full range of silver, mercury and coin 1 to 1,000 EVII0/1 5,001 to 6.000 EVli0/6 lithium watch/electronic batteries. Modern design and easy to use. 1,001 to 2,000 EVli0/2 6,001 to 7,000 EV11 0/ 7 EV3000 Ust $54.95 Sale! $49.95 2,001 to 3,000 EVli0/3 7,001 to 8.000 EVII0/8 shownl EVEWB I Compact uni!(Not 18.95 ( 3,001 to 4,000 EVli0/4 8,001 to 9,000 EVII0/9 4,001 to 5,000 EVli0/5 9,001 lo 10,000 EVli0/10 u~ Twin City Supply 2230 Edgewood Avenue South ~~~ www.twincitysupply.net Minneapolis, MN 55426-2823 TW I NCO 3!9,t Phone: 952.545.2725 Fax: 952.545.4715 • USA: 800.328.6009 Fax: 800.328.6001 HT3118 March 2008 Horological Times 25 the balloon is nearly empty, and rather than rise to the case, the watchmaker can immediately sense trouble and ceiling, it sinks to the floor. The helium has diffused out stop until the customer is notified of the problem. If it of the balloon into the atmosphere. Helium's rapid diffu happens while closing the case, the watchmaker also senses sion rate is significant for people who work in high com trouble because there exists a possibility the case needs pression, helium/oxygen environments, such as those uti replacement at a cost that may not have been included in lized by deep-sea divers. The helium in this high pressure the original repair estimate. There is a product available environment rapidly passes over and through the gasket to watchmakers that can prevent case back thread seizure. materials used in diver's watches, as it did through the It is a special white grease, Fomblin®. This grease, avail skin of the balloon, until the internal pressure inside the able from most supply houses, prevents thread seizure watch is nearly equal to that of the high-pressure environ when the watchcase is closed and subsequently opened. ment on the outside of the watchcase. When the watch Apply the Fomblin, with an applicator such as one that is and its wearer decompress to sea level pressure the he sold for applying eyelid makeup, to the threads of the case lium will not diffuse out of the case rapidly enough to back. Use the Fomblin for all case metals. After lubricat prevent the pressure: in the watchcase from exploding the ing the threads and the case back washer, the case back crystal out of the case. Hence, the watch is equipped with can be safely installed and removed. a helium valve to rapidly release the pressure thus pre Jack Kurdzionak venting the watch from exploding. You Are Invited Some helium valves are passive. That is they do not re Do you have a solution to a watch or clock repair problem quire any action by the wearer to release the helium. They that you want to share with our membership? Do you have just open and close as needed. Others require some action a question about a repair problem you would like to ask? by the watch wearer to open the valve to allow the helium I invite you to participate in this column with your sug to escape, and afterwards close the valve when the de gestions, questions, and comments. It is easy. Just e-mail compression is complete. Regardless of type, both need me at AWCI PARTS MESSAGE BOARD The American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute Parts Message Board is available on line at www.awci.com Click on the Parts Forum in the Top Links box. Guests are free to browse our topics and posts but only validated AWCI members will be able to actively post messages and communicate with one another via private messaging. The purpose of this board is to aid our members in finding watch parts, clock parts and tools. This board is not open to generic advertising posts; therefore, web ad dresses and e-mail addresses should not be included in public messages. 26 Horological Times March 2008 AWCI-ELM Trust Donations The Trustees of the AWCI Education, Library and Museum Charitable Trust would like to recognize the following people for their donations to the ELM Trust: Waldo C. Aceves Paul H. Golfetto JK Nicholas John Acker William B. Gould Terry A. Palmer Louis Archie Bacon David A. Gravenkamp Patrick Puton Charles Boyce Philip R. Hannah, CMW Ernesto Rolo Glenn W. Brown Marol Hansen Ernesto Rolo , Jr. Central Illinois Watchmakers Dale E. Huntington, CMW William M. Smith Association Jan Kowalczyk Jeffrey J. Snider Chelsea Clock Michael Krechmaras Swiss Service Center Inc. Randall Cross Alex S. Mamedov Oren R. Wallace Mario Delgado Ann M. Marini Armando Juan Delgado Joe Marino Robert Louis Eppelein, Jr. Donald M. McPherson, CW21 David E. Gaon Michael E. Moore \,WCR ··-··--- we R [HR~~~J ...... ll ... hn _L Col.,.hon... _ ~ ... p.- ... - 0 $19.50- One Year U $22.50- One Year Chronas Magazine Watch & Clock 0 $42.00- Two Years 0 $.35.00- Two Years 0 $60.00 - Three Years is published 6 times 0 $50.00- Three Years Review is published F()reign subscribers add $10 per per year f By the Chemists at Zenith Solutions, Inc. Question: When should I use water-based vs. solvent The rinsing cycle is simple. Just rinse with distilled water based cleaners to clean metal watch or clock parts? I'm at least two to three times with ultrasonic or mechanical confused. stirring, until the parts are thoroughly clean. Good question. Let's try to simplify the answer. A word of caution: If you live in an area of the country that has hard water you must use distilled water to make Water-Based Cleaners up the cleaning solution and rinses. The reason is hard Usually manufacturers sell water-based cleaners in two water, when evaporated, leaves a film or salt deposit on forms: the parts that is not good for watches and clocks. 1. Use as is 2. Concentrated form - with directions to mix one pint As a chemist, I recommend that everyone should use of concentrated cleaner to seven pints of distilled water to distilled water at all times to prevent salt deposits. make one gallon of solution. Most companies buy the con centrated form for economic reasons. Now comes the critical part- the drying cycle. Cleaning Cycle Drying Cycle Water-based cleaners are considered "gentle cleaners". Metal parts must be thoroughly dried immediately. If not, They are referred to as gentle because the solution only water droplets and moisture will start to react with the dissolves water-soluble debris such as salts and dislodge delicate parts causing corrosion and etching on the metal particles of hardened grease and oil. This solution con surface. That is why extra time and attention should be tains special soaps and chemicals that surround the par given to this stage. ticles that adhere to the metal surface and pull them into the solution leaving a clean part behind. Parts can be either air blown dry or put into the heating chamber of the cleaning machine. Chemicals in the cleaner also make the "water wetter". That is, under normal conditions plain water cannot break Once dried and inspected, parts are ready to be assembled the bond between the particle and surface of the metals, into the watch or clock. whereas, cleaners containing special chemicals can break the bond rendering a clean part. That is why they are re When Should I Use Water-Based Cleaners? ferred to as the "gentle cleaners". The watchmaker or clockmaker should first examine the parts thoroughly under magnification, such as a loupe, An important note: Water-based cleaners do not have the and check if there is a coating on the parts or surrounding solvency to completely dissolve hardened greases and oil. surfaces, especially when working with antiques, one-of It may take extra cleaning cycles before the parts are a-kind watches or clocks and pocket watches. judged thoroughly clean and ready for the rinsing cycle. The rule is: if there is a coating- use water-based; if there Rinsing Cycle is no coating- use solvent-based. Once the parts have undergone the cleaning cycle either by ultrasonic or mechanical stirring, the parts are trans This chemist estimates that watchmakers and clockmakers ferred into the rinsing jars. use approximately 85% solvent-based cleaners and 15% water-based cleaners in the repair process. 28 Horological Times March 2008 Solvent-Based Cleaners Solvent-Based Cleaners - for all non-coated parts. This Solvent-based cleaners are considered to be "The Work represents a majority of watches and clocks to be repaired Horse of the Industry" because 85% of repairs are done and assembled. by solvent cleaners. The reason? Most parts are not coated and can be cleaned by the solvent system. If you have questions on watch and clock cleaners, call the chemist at Zenith Solutions, Inc. 1-888-777-6887 or Cleaning Cycle send e-mail to: [email protected] There are two types of solvent cleaners on the market that 0 watchmakers and clockmakers can choose from. They can easily be identified as those that have a strong solvent odor and those that are rated low odor. Cleansers with a strong solvent odor have been around for a long time and have had the same formulation for 20 or more years. Today, thanks to modem chemistry, there are cleaners that are rated low odor which perform exactly the same as those with strong odor. Generally, the old cleaners are more volatile and have lower flash points than the newer low odor ones. The newer cleaners are considered more envi ronmentally friendly and safer for the operator. Watchmakers and clockmakers now have a choice and should avail themselves of the opportunity to make their own decision. As a chemist, I encourage everyone to try both types the old and the new solvent cleaners. Rinsing Cycle There are also two types of rinses on the market. Those CLOCKS that have a strong solvent odor and those that are rated • low odor. m a g a z 1 n e Once again, it is up to the individual person which one to select. The same principles apply as in the cleaning cycle-the old versus the new rinses. Many watch companies are starting to use the new rinses for safety and environmental reasons. Drying Cycle Simply set the timer until the parts are judged to be thor oughly dry. Summary The answer to the question: When should I use water- or solvent-based cleaners? Just follow the rule: GET YOUR FREE SAMPLE Water-Based Cleaners- for coated parts. Ideal for antique COPY OF CLOCKS watches and clocks, one-of-a-kind horological timepieces and pocket watches that are coated with lacquers, shellac Tel: 044 131 331 3200 or other plastic materials. Email: [email protected] March 2008 Horological Times 29 Fusees and Stopworks Part 2 Stopworks Despite any limiting device that is used however, it is im We have seen how the fusee operates to limit the use of possible to prevent the occasional "strong man" exhibit the mainspring to the middle section of its wind, which is ing his prowess by twisting the winding arbor. I once re effectively about 75 % of the total turns that the mainspring ceived a long case clock which had one of the winding barrel would make if it was not constrained by the num squares twisted through 180°! Nevertheless, placing a limit ber of turns on the fusee and the setting of the ratchet on on the unwinding and winding of a weight-driven clock the barrel winding arbor. There are, of course, several more is a useful thing to do. methods of stopworks that can be seen in spring-driven clocks, but stopworks also appear in weight-driven clocks Simple Long Case Time and Strike for a different purpose. Eight-Day Clocks This is a matter of adjusting the length of the cord. Prior Spring clock stopworks aim to do the same as the fusee to the first decades of the 20th century, an eight-day long make use of a favored part of the spring wind. Since a case clock most frequently had cords. One end was fitted weight-driven clock does not have the same variations in into the barrel and anchored there by a simple knot. The drive that a spring has, there is no point in deciding to use other end (after feeding through the weight pulley) was the middle 75 % of winding turns. The weight of cable or led up through a hole in the seat board and secured around chain unwound from the barrel is inconsiderable. But it is a dowel with a clove hitch (Figure 6) or a timber hitch. desirable to ensure that the clock does not wind down (Since only a limited number of clockmakers knew any until the weight touches the floor and allows the cable or thing about knots, it was frequently a knot with no name.) chain to slacken and possibly roll off the weight pulley. The dowel has been pulled out of its normal position in Equally the clockmaker does not want to have his cus the photograph and I would normally use that loose end tomer wind the clock until the weights jam against the to make an additional half hitch around the cord, to make underside of the seat board, straining cables, chains, and sure it did not slip. Catgut has a tendency to slip. Limiting movement. the winding turns of the clock is managed by adjusting -~' ! Short space Figure 6 Figure 7 30 Horological Times March 2008 space, and jams. It is only possible to make fifteen turns on this winder (a little fewer in fact because of the width of the teeth). It is safest to set the stopworks by raising the weights until they are an inch or two short of the seat board, deter mining which direction the winder will tum to lift the weight and then placing the one wheel on the arbor (the right-hand wheel is permanently mounted on its stud) with the long tooth and short space engaged so that they are locked together, but disengage immediately as the winder turns. As I said at the start of this section, both winding and unwinding are limited by the stopworks. A fairly new Figure 8 clock almost certainly has clock lines that are long enough to regulate the rise and fall of weights in the safe zone, neither reaching the floor or jamming against the seat the knot so that when the barrel is unwound the cord is board. Both positions need to be checked because I am long enough to just hold the weight half an inch or so off told that at least one maker failed to do this and their older the floor. The fully wound condition has to be left to the clocks have to be set to avoid the more dangerous of the owner and is usually a matter of telling them to raise the two conditions-jamming under the seat board. weight to a certain position in the case. I used to recom mend the top of the weight be level with the top of the Spring-Driven Clocks door, but that does not always work out and then I re The same device can be used on spring barrels, of course. sorted to a piece of sticky tape on the weight being raised A slight variation is shown in Figure 8 where one gear is to the top of the door. normal with teeth and spaces that are not modified. How ever, the meshing gear is not cut completely, one tooth Modern Chiming Floor Clocks space is missing (if I can put it that way). Quite clearly Most of these limit the winding and the unwinding by there is no question of using this for making fifteen turns using two meshing gears with an unequal number of teeth, of the winding arbor, because the wheel with the filled in a short tooth space on one and a longer tooth on the other. space can only rotate slightly less than one revolution. To The short tooth space is long enough to allow the normal obtain three turns of the winding arbor, the stud-mounted teeth of the other gear to pass through, but not the longer wheel must have three times as many teeth. Since there is tooth. The long tooth is not so long that it will not pass a limited amount of space on the front plate of a clock, the through the normal tooth spaces on the other gear, but it device is normally used where there is a second wheel jams when it encounters the short tooth space. Since the gears do not have the same count as each other this jam ming only occurs after several winding turns, usually fif HERMLE • KIENINGER • URGOS teen or sixteen. H. HERR • REGULA from The example in Figure 7 has fourteen teeth on the wheel mounted on the winding arbor and fifteen on the wheel 1Jjutttrtuortb ~lodts, lfnc. stud mounted to one side. If winding begins when the long Why repair when you can replace? tooth is in the short space, and placed to lift out of the THE LARGEST MOVEMENT SUPPLY IN THE WORLD space when the winder is used, the winder wheel will make FREE PRICE LIST one rotation and the long tooth will have fallen back one Phone: 563-263-6759 Fax: 563-263-0428 space from its starting position. This happens every time E-mail: [email protected] it rotates, losing one space for every revolution. At the Web: www.butterworthclocks.com fifteenth rotation it will have caught up with the short 5300 59th Ave. W.. Muscatine. lA 52761 March 2008 Horological Times 31 and pinion between the barrel and center arbor, thus mul point of this system is quite obviously the neck of the tiplying the turns of the barrel ring. The gears shown do indexing finger. The material is hard (usually dead hard) not mesh on the line of centers, but it really is of no im and quite brittle. portance, since there is no energy being transmitted and the smaller gear is driving the larger one. There are other designs of stopworks, but they follow the same two systems. The first is similar to the hunting tooth Geneva Stopworks employing two meshing gears that have differing counts Geneva stop works are very similar in form to a method of of teeth, and a blocked position that occurs after a number accurately indexing tools and parts in industrial presswork. of revolutions of both gears. The second is the block de I do not know which came first. This is a more difficult vice like the Geneva where only one gear can make more stopworks to make, but it was very popular with French than one revolution. Incidentally the hunting tooth appears manufacturers of the 19th century. Unfortunately it has a in a few clocks on gears that do not have to maintain a weak point, and very frequently clocks that used to have strict relationship-one tum to five turns for instance. We Geneva stopworks have one part of the works missing have all seen gear pairs that have a whole ratio, where the because it was broken or it fell off the end of the spring wheel count is an exact multiple of the pinion teeth, wear barrel. It consists of two hardened steel parts: the one with in a particular pattern. Each pinion tooth has a set of wheel the round indexing finger fits onto the winding arbor, and teeth that it always engages and the wear on these sets is the other with the slots is held loosely on a fitted screw. not always the same. If it could be arranged for each pin Notice that the outside of this one is scalloped to closely ion tooth to engage all the wheel teeth in tum, the wear fit the collar of the piece on the arbor. The loose piece is should be evenly spread over all the gear teeth. indexed in steps, only moving when the indexing finger is in the slot and held motionless between indexes by the Consider an eight-leaved pinion and a 65-tooth wheel in fit of the scallops and the collar. I think that the weak mesh. When the pinion has made eight rotations it will have engaged 64 teeth, there is one tooth that has not meshed with the pinion yet. As a con- sequence, if the first pinion tooth to engage was numbered "1" and all the others num bered to "8", the next rotation of the wheel would be started by pinion tooth "2". I have only come across this once, al though I have used it in a few of my clock designs. Of course it only has value if the clock maker expects the clock to last for a few centuries. It is never found on a modern mass-pro Winding duced clock. There isn't much more that I can say on the subject of stopworks and fusees. There are many problems that both will give the clockmaker, but they will mainly be specific to a particular movement and damage that has occurred in the past. I will begin a fresh subject next month. Figure 9 Winding Blocked, end of wind 0 32 Horological Times March 2008 AWCI Correspondence Course in Clock Repair Based on the original correspondence course written and administered by Laurie Penman, AWCI's resident clock instructor, this course is con structed to provide information and instruction in a manner that is immedi ately useful in both learning and practicing clock repair. The course contains 16 lessons. At the completion of each lesson you will receive comments and suggestions from Laurie Penman, and a pass or fail grade. Those who achieve a pass grade in each section will receive a certificate of completion. Mr. Penman will be available to answer questions or offer suggestions to each student. The AWCI Correspondence Course in Clock Repair package contains all the material and information necessary to successfully learn the fundamentals of clock repair, including The Clock Repairer's Handbook by Laurie Penman and a one-year subscription to Steven G. Conover's monthly publication, Clockmaker's Newsletter. Course participants will be invited to attend a 2- day meeting at AWCI to confer with Mr. Penman and meet other students. AWCI Members - $800 Non-members - $925 Contact Nancy Wellmann, AWCI Education Coordinator E-mail: nwellmann@ awci.com Phone Toll Free 1-866-367-2924, ext. 303 or (513) 367-9800 ------ Payment processing tailored to your needs, a partnership with AWCI, and reduced rates just for members. And you thought your timepieces were reliable. First National Merchant Solutions can provide your business with an affordable way to accept credit and debit payments, convert checks to instant cash, and receive payments over the internet. Just some of the ways we can help you grow your business .. .find out more today. (i) First National 800-354-3988 www.membersales.comjawci-net Merchant Solutions March 2008 Horological Times 33 WISCONSIN HOROLOGICAL SOCIETY ANNUAL CONVENTION MAY 2, 3 & 4, 2008 EDUCATION PROGRAMS The Newest Timing Machines and Why They Are Necessary - Tom Schomaker, CMW21 Tom will present information on the newest timing machines and why they are necessary. His program will include interpretation of results and an M1 Chronoscope demonstration. The Modern German Clock Movement, Adjustments and Trouble Shooting - Mark Butterworth Mark's program will include an audiovisual experience along with adjustments made on actual movements. Watch Factories of Switzerland - Ed Kohn & Jeff Debbink Share experiences in a behind the scenes tour of several of the finest watch factories of Switzerland. Voyageur Inn & Conference Center 200 Viking Drive Reesburg, WI 53959 Call (800) 444-4493 for the WHS room block For more information regarding registration and hotel information please contact whstime@ hotmail.com AWCI Member Websites • Have you always wanted a website for your business, or are you unhappy with your current website? • Do you feel that your business needs more exposure to your customers? • Do you want a website, but don't know where to start, and assume it would be a costly venture? • Do you just not have the time to mess with it? Go to: awci.companysitecreator.com AWCI and Companysitecreator have worked together to offer an opportunity to all mem bers! It literally takes just a few minutes to build your new site in 5 simple steps from start to finish. Two packages are offered ($8.95 per month or $18.95 per month), and you are able to see your site before you decide to purchase. 34 Horological Times March 2008 Arizona Missouri Atkins, Tom R.-Mesa, AZ Moser, Joe-Florissant, MO Zantech's compressor system has a Arkansas Nevada unique dual trigger action that is Vick, Greg-North Little Rock, AR* Mellen, Jeffery D.-Midas, NV* capable of spraying dry filtered air, as well as PlastiCLEAN'"solvent. Safely California New Jersey dissolve dry oils and other contaminants (without disassembly of the gear train), Lukin, Gennadiy-Sacramento, CA Malicsi, Jean-Paul M.-Rutherford, NJ all with the ease of a foot switch Roma, Franco-Santa Clara, CA* activated system that is quiet enough for New York a retail environment. The cost of cleaning one movement with the Colorado Adamowicz, Alex-Hampton Bays, NY* Zantech compressor system averages Donaldson, David J.-Longmont, CO* Brenner, Erika-Mount Tremper, NY* only 10 cents per movement! Grady, J. Michael-Pittsford, NY Connecticut Kit includes: Osta, Nagi-Stamford, CT North Carolina • Dual-Action Spray Gun Seo, John-Westport, CT Khan, Asad A.-Winston Salem, NC • Qt. PlastiCLEAN'solvent • 2 oz and 3/4 oz Jar with cover • Pair Movement Grippers Florida Ohio • Airbrush Holder Carey, Stephen L.-Jacksonville, FL Bahl, Jack T.-Canton, OH • Compressor Air-Hose Centeno, Daniel-Miami, FL* Sparks, Nathan-Centerville, OH* • In-line Moisture Filter Hamid, Jamal F.-Fort Myers, FL 30.650C (Quiet Compressor & AC Peters, Radieya-Boca Raton, FL South Carolina foot Switch Included) $699.95 Rolo , Ernesto-Miami, FL Frothingham , Walt-Charleston, SC* Idaho Texas Mechtel, Ed-Middleton, ID Mitchell, Colin A.-Houston, TX* Perego, Hoyt-Houston, TX Illinois Smith, Travis-Houston, TX Estell , Scott-Quincy, IL Washington Indiana Seifert, Niles L.-Seattle, WA Varvel, William-Brazil, IN Canada Louisiana Powers, Kevin D.-Moncton, New Simply the best cleaning Shoop, James-Franklinton, LA Brunswick solution for qnartz watch movements Michigan *AWCI welcomes back these individuals who 13 fl oz Aerosol Can $16.95 have chosen to re-instate their membership. 1 qt Bulk Liquid Bishop, Michael-Beulah, Ml* $24.95 0 Blank, Stephen-Manistee, Ml Chen, Tom-Plymouth, Ml Mississippi Bolton, Kevin L.-New Augusta, MS March 2008 Horological Times 35 Alessandro Betti Instructor (ETA Swatch Group representative from Switzerland) AWCI Training Center - Harrison, OH Course Fee: $600.00 (AWCI membership required) Mr. Betti accepts 12 students; registration is on a first come, first serve basis This course will cover the ETA Caliber 2894-2 Additional calibers may be discussed if time permits For information or to register for the class contact Nancy Wellmann - AWCI Educational Coordinator E-mail: nwellmann@ awci.com (866) FOR-AWCI (367-2924), Ext. 303 (513) 367-9800 36 Horological Times March 2008 March 10-14, 2008 Modern Automatic Watches April 7-11, 2008 Basic Quartz Watch and Quartz Chronograph Repair April 14-18, 2008 Modern Mechanical Chronographs, Servicing and Adjusting May 19-23, 2008 ETA Calibers - Alessandro Betti, Instructor June 9-13, 2008 Watchmaker's Lathe I June 16-20, 2008 Watchmaker's Lathe II July 14-18, 2008 Basic Watch Repair September 22-26, 2008 Modern Automatic Watches October 6-1 0, 2008 Basic Quartz Watch and Quartz Chronograph Repair October 13-17, 2008 Modern Mechanical Chronographs, Servicing and Adjusting March 31-April 3, 2008 AWCI Training Facility Harrison, OH April 28-May 1, 2008 AWCI Training Facility Harrison, OH May 12-15, 2008 AWCI Training Facility Harrison, OH June 23-26, 2008 AWCI Training Facility Harrison, OH July 21-24, 2008 AWCI Training Facility Harrison, OH August 11-14, 2008 North Seattle Community College Seattle, WA September 2-5, 2008 Lititz Watch Technicum Lititz, PA October 27-30, 2008 AWCI Training Facility Harrison, OH March 2008 Horological Times 37 Watchmaker's Lathe I Purpose The purpose of this course is to teach the student basic micromechanics skills and all the basics of operating a watchmaker's lathe. Prerequisites Must read chapter 12, of The Modern Watchmakers Lathe And How to Use It, by Archie Perkins, prior to attending the course. Course objectives The student will learn about: 1. Measuring and measuring tools 2. Tracing and sawing 3. Various methods of filing 4. Drilling 5. Creating line finishes 6. Introduction to the lathe and its care 7. Use of gravers, shapes and cutting geometry 8. Sharpening gravers 9. Turning square shoulders and tapered surfaces 10. Cutting an inside and outside thread 11. Other applications of the lathe (e.g. cutting out a balance staff) Watchmaker's Lathe II Purpose This course is a continuation of Watchmaker's Lathe I and the purpose is to teach the student the necessary knowledge and hand skills to manufacture various parts in steel that will be functional in a mechanical watch (e.g. winding stem). Prerequisites • Attended the AWCI course, Watchmaker's Lathe I • Must read chapter 16, of The Modern Watchmakers Lathe And How to Use It, by Archie Perkins, prior to attending the course. Course objectives 1. Measuring and measuring tools 2. Using various formulae 3. Determining the dimensions of missing part(s) 4. Metallurgy 5. Use of gravers, shapes and cutting geometry 6. Sharpening gravers (H.S.S & Carboloy) 7. Heat treating, annealing, hardening, tempering 8. Square filing methods 9. Turning square shoulders and tapered surfaces 10. Cutting threads on steel parts 11. Other applications of the lathe as time permits Please visit www.awci.com for the complete tool lists for these courses. Contact Nancy Wellmann, Education Coordinator [email protected] or call toll free (866) FOR-AWCI (367-2924), ext. 303 Jules Borel & Co. Helps Watchmakers Meet the Challenge of Finding Parts New Horological Products Catalog Published Every year it gets a little more difficult to find horologi fewer tools. For more convenience, Jules Borel & Co. is cal parts. Using the knowledge gained in nearly 90 years combining watchmaking tools and jeweler's tools into one as a watch parts supplier, Jules Borel & Co. has created a Super Tools catalog, to be printed this Spring. brand new Horological Products Catalog to make it easier for watchmakers everywhere. Following the format of Jules Borel & Co. has been a leader in serving watchmak other recent catalogs well received by customers, the Hom ers and jewelers for over 88 years from the heart of logical Products Catalog underscores a commitment to America. The Horological Products Catalog and other organize and provide a wide variety of parts and supplies Jules Borel & Co. catalogs may be ordered at to professional watchmakers. 800-776-6858 or viewed on-line at julesborel.com. The Jules Borel & Co. catalogs are free to established custom Well organized and completely indexed, the Horological ers or with a $30 order. Products Catalog features: • Thousands of horological parts • Comprehensive, updated product listings Roger Dubuis North America, Inc. and • Easy-to-read new format Manufacture Roger Dubuis S.A. • Full-color photographs Reach Agreement • Convenient spiral binding Roger Dubuis North America, Inc., Chief Executive Of ficer, Steven Holtzman, and Carlos Dias, CEO Manufac Customers familiar with the previous horological cata ture Roger Dubuis S.A., recently announced that they have logs may notice this one includes mostly watch parts, and agreed to resolve all outstanding issues concerning the distribution of Roger Dubuis products in North America. As part of the agreement all legal actions pending between both parties will be withdrawn. Victorinox Swiss Army Proudly Presents Its Spring 2008 Timepiece Collection Victorinox Swiss Army is proud to announce the addition of several exciting new timepieces to its collection. With this offering, the company not only continues to create men's timepieces, but turns some of its attention toward the important female market, embarking on a campaign to attract women who are looking for timepieces that com bine beauty and functionality. The Spring 2008 Collec tion embodies a dedication to practical luxury, a notion that is integral to the identity of the brand. 40 Horological Times March 2008 Complementing the popular Chrono gunmetal and titanium finishes radically transform the Classic collection, the Chrono Clas- Dive Master 500 into not only an exceptional timepiece, sic Ladies features an oversized but a fashion statement all its own. Water-resistant to 500 41mm case, paired with a delicate meters and with a black, easy-to-read dial, the new Dive dial crafted from precious mother Master 500 embodies Victorinox Swiss Army's dedica of-pearl in iridescent white, lagoon tion to quality and innovation. blue or shimmering pink. The chronograph functions include 11 Visit Victorinox at www.swissarmy.com. Victorinox 10 second, 60-second, and 30- Swiss Army, Inc. is based in Monroe, CT, USA. minute counters operated by means of contoured pushers. A soft white lambskin strap adds to the sophisti New 2008 Arch Crown Catalog! cation of this impressive collection. Arch Crown is proud to present their new 2008 tag and label catalog. The catalog features a quality line of stock, For women on-the-go, the new Vivante Dual Time offers preprinted and custom printed tags and labels. Choose a twin-time indicator, enabling an accurate display of the the right tag or label to fit your store's time in two time zones of the wearer's choice. Attention image. New products include: to detail is illustrated by the hour marker, with its elegant Watch Case Protectors, blue, arrow-shaped pointer, and by the dial, featuring a Custom Insert Tags for dazzling Guilloche pattern. A cabochon crown adds the Watch and Jewelry finishing touch of elegance to the Vivante Dual Time, Boxes, Blank Tent/Insert making this timepiece not only attractive, but remarkably Stand Tags, Custom and practical. It is water-resistant to 100 meters, and features Preprinted 'Secure-Lock' a triple-coated, anti-reflective sapphire crystal. Molded Tags that help pre vent unauthorized returns, The new Chrono Classic XLS Alarm of Stock and Custom Com fers all of the functions of a 12-hour puter Tags, Metrologic Bar capacity chronograph, with an alarm Code Scanners, and Datamax clock on its own hours/minutes M4206 Mark IT Thermal Transfer Printer for producing pro counter located at 6 o'clock. Pre fessional tags and labels with or without bar coding. sented in a generous 45mm case with a sporty design, the Chrono Classic Arch Crown has more than a quarter century of experience XLS Alarm has a clear, legible dial in computer pricing systems and bar code printing systems. thanks to the complementary colors They are affiliated with the most respected companies in the of the chronograph counters. A strik bar coding industry. Systems are designed in conjunction ing combination of silver, anthracite or with software developers in the jewelry industry to provide black dials and subdials are available, efficient, usable price tagging and labeling systems. Arch with either a steel bracelet or a Swiss-made Crown technology products include thermal transfer print leather strap with ivory contrast stitching. ers, bar code scanners, portable data collectors, bar coding software and computer tags. They offer free tech support Victorinox Swiss Army also provides an opportunity for from their authorized factory trained technicians. keeping accurate time whether on dry land or in depths of the ocean with its new range of Dive Master 500 time Arch Crown has the tags and labels to fit your store's im pieces. The timepieces in this new collection are more age. For free samples and new catalog visit Arch Crown stylish than ever with either a gunmetal PVD-coated at JA NY Booth 1887, visit www.ArchCrown.com or call stainless steel or a titanium case and bracelet. Both the toll free 1-800-526-8353. 0 March 2008 Horological Times 41 WHAT'S ON THE AWCI CW21 EXAM? 1. WrittenfTheory task (essay type questions, calculations, etc.) 2. Using the Watchmaker's Lathe (hand-held graver turning operations) 3. Servicing a Modern Swiss Quartz wristwatch movement 4. Servicing a Modern Swiss Automatic wristwatch movement 5. Servicing a Modern Swiss Chronograph wristwatch movement It is strongly recommended that you read and comprehend the detailed contents of the five (5) points above, in the AWCI Standards & Practices (CW21 exam emphasized on pages 16- 24) at the following link: http://www.awci.com/documents/June2006sandpforwatchmakers.pdf Or visit www.awci.com and click on CERTIFICATION For further questions you may contact Nancy Well mann at: Toll Free 1-866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) ext. 303 E-mail: nwellmann@ awci.com American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute AWCI Health Savings Al:counts Long-Term Care Disability Income/Critical Illness Dental & Vision Insurance Annuities Health Insurance Home Health Care Life Insurance Assisted Living Individuals & Famil ies Term 5, 10, 20, 25, 30;-Age 95 Nursing Home care Groups Universal Life Student Health Plans Survivorship (2nd to Die) Medicare Supplements Key Person International Travel Insurance Executive Benefit Life Health Savings Accounts Retirement & Financial Services Individua Is/Groups On Insurance Premiums! Rates and Availability May Vary By State. AWCI Association Health Programs 6319 W. llOth Street, Overland Park, Kansas 66211 A SSOCIATION Phone: (913) 341-2868 Toll Free: (888) 45Q-3040 Fax: (913) 341-2803 Email: [email protected] Website: www .associationpros.com/assoc/ AWCI PROGRAMS 1!7'(:,; 42 Horological Times March 2008 The American Watch Guild announces the creation of the International Watch Collectors Society The Society will provide its members with the following • Calendar of major watch sales & auctions. Antiquorum, Christie's, Phillips & Sotheby's The previews of upcoming auctions. Reports: photographs, prices and auction results. • Announcements from significant watch firms of new releases and limited editions. • Information about emerging new master watchmakers and their creations • Establishment of regional chapters where the collectors can meet and have guest speakers from noteworthy watchmaking factories. • Question and Answer service by Stewart Unger, noted watch authority & author. • Annual meeting at the Concours d'Elegance at the summer Jewelers of America Show held at the Javits Center in New York. • A book club. • Plus Free Booklets: How to Buy a Watch (and its Functions) The Care and Service of Timepieces Where to Find the World's Finest Watches How to Detect a Counterfeit Watch Membership 1 year~ $65 2 years ~ $120 6 Issues of Collectors Corner per year Invitation to the Concours d'Elegance Master Collector 1 year~ $120 2 years~ $220 the above plus: 10% discount from the Book Club Rebate coupons from Manufacturers Membership Application N arne Phone.______Address Ciry State Zip: _____ Make check payable to: International Watch Collectors Society, LLC 244 Madison Ave., #258 New York, NY 10016 • Fax: 516~374~5060 March 2008 Horological Times 43 Classified Advertising ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE We are Factory Authorized Service for: Regulations & Rates • VIBROGRAF & PORTESCAP • TICK-0-PRINT & L&R We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate Ads are payable in advance $1.00 per word, recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience. $1 .10 per word in bold type. Classified dis play ads are $45.00 per column inch, 214'' 190 Deepstone Drive San Rafael, CA 94903 wide. Classified ads are not commissionable Used Equipment Bought & Sold or discountable. Payment can be made by For Information check, VISA, MasterCard, Discover, Diner's I~ r-:'f or American Express. The publisher may, Prompt Reliable Service ... Guaranteed ~ (415) 453-9266 ~ at the publisher's sole discretion and for any Call Us or Visit dialreoair.com reason and without notice, decline to pub lish or republish any ad, in which case any fees submitted or paid for such ads shall NOTE: NEW ADDRESS & PHONE be returned or rebated to the advertiser. The Servicing ACCUTRON, also classic POLISH PIVOTS IN AS UTTLE AS 5 - 7 SEC. publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. AMERICAN wrist & pocket, fine SWISS. Larry Blanchard, CMW21 u•R!JME. !!OSI Price lists of services will not be accepted. !lfS S.,. & EJ>GIIl£ LATHES. PO Box 415, Blue Mound, IL 62513 \~tc HMAKfliS Confidential ads are $15.00 additional for Phone & Fax: 217-692-2891 MORGAN CLOCK CO. postage and handling. The first of the month 80().805-2220 9-6 CST is issue date. Copy must be received 30 MORGANPIVOTPOUSHER.COM days in advance (May issue closes for copy DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, FIN 51 on April 1 ). EST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. Spe HAMILTON ELECTRIC WATCH REPAIR cialize on changing dial feet positions to fit the Expert, experienced service on all Hamilton 500 HOROLOG/CAL TIMES quartz movement. Send your works to: KIRK and 505 Electric watches. Rene Rondeau, P.O. 701 Enterprise Drive DIAL OF SEATILE, 112 Central Avenue North, Box 391, Corte Madera, CA 94976. Phone (415) Harrison, OH 45030 Kent, WA 98032; (253) 852-5125 924-6534. www.hamiltonwristwatch.com Toll Free 866-367-2924, ext. 307 Phone (513) 367-9800 Fax (513) 367-1414 CLOCK GEARS, BARRELS and PINIONS VINTAGE POCKET WATCH RESTORATION E-mail: [email protected] made from your sample, ARBORS re-pivoted, www.awci.com Twenty-eight years experience, guarantee, teeth replaced in gears or barrels. All work free estimates. The Escapement, P.O. Box guaranteed, fair prices fast turn around. 522, Pooler, GA 31322; (912) 330-0866 Call Mike Loebbaka, 86 Mullens Lane, Saugerties, NY 12477; Phone: 800-411-4542, tictoc@ oldandnew.com FENDLEY & COX WHEEL AND PINION SPECIALIST POCKET WATCH & 1530 Etain Rd., Irving, TX 75060 TRADESMAN MARINE CHRONOMETER REPAIR RICHARD COX 972-986-7698 General repair and restoration of antique CMC, FNAWCC, CMBHI and complicated watches. Custom parts fabrica www.fendley-cox.com tion including staffs, verge staffs, stems, r------, levers, and springs. Located in Massachusetts. Matt Henning, CW (413) 549-1950; I DIAL www.henningwatches.com ARTICLES FOR SALE I REFINISHING FOR SALE: New Bergeon 5555 Waterproof I REPIVOTING -WRIST & POCKET WATCHES Tester; Genuine Rolex Case Opener, 3 pc. set; I Custom made pivots for balance staffs, arbors, pinions. No part too small. Balance staffs and Lots of parts, movements and tester for Accutron I . 'I!; arbors made to factory standards. 40 years ex 218 and 214. (561) 641-8162 • ll •·~· · 2 ' perience. Juliusz Dabrowski, J.D.Watchworks 210 Post St., Suite 506, San Francisco, CA ... -· 94108; (415) 397-0310; [email protected] HAMILTON ORIGINAL MILITARY MATERIAL :a - ~ . 4 . Supplying original factory material for the I' : ' Hamilton Model21 Chronometer, Model 22 Deck CLOCK , MUSIC BOX MAINSPRINGS, GEAR Watch & Military 16 Size Watch Models 23, BEFORE AFTER PINION CUTIERS, MATERIAL & PARTS CUS 3992B, 4992B and 2974B As well as much ma Quartz Conversions TOM MADE. TANI ENGINEERING, 1852 State terial for the 950B & 992B Railroad Watches. Diamond Dial Conversions Route 44, Atwater, OH 44201 ; (330) 325-0645. LARRY CRUTSINGER E-mail: [email protected] Emblem & Name Personalization P.O. Box 8514 Norfolk, VA 23503 757-650-9470 E-mail: detent21 @aol.com Write for Brochures ATMOS www.militarywatchmuseum.com INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO., INC. Service/Repair 58 W. SUGARTREE Warranty 2 Years Parts & Labor P.O. BOX 970 800-837-1545 DOCTOR'S WATCHES- beautiful German de WILMINGTON, OH 45177 Clockmaster, Inc. - Robert Good sign, Swiss mechanical ETA movement, good L ______(937) 382-4535 .J 2537 So. Brentwood Blvd. price. Contact Mark Butterworth for info at (563) St. Louis, Missouri 63144 263-6759 or [email protected] 44 Horological Times March 2008 FOR SALE: ROLEX PARTS, Regula and H. Herr Cuckoo Movements WATCH CRYSTALS, EQUIPMENT Watch Repair Tools & Supplies Complete selection. Also factory stopper new Large inventory genuine Rolex parts original Clock Repair Toots & Supplies... Hermie, Urgos, and Kieninger at 60% OFF our sealed packaging; large lot watch crystals includ for American and European docks of all types! regular wholesale prices. Call Butterworth's ing pocket watch ; antique movements, timing · Horotogical Repair and Refemce Books (563) 263-6759. machine, other equipment, much more. (21 0) 260-0662 Browse through our inventory and order on-line 14-hours a day/-· www.merritts.com PTPWP is your #1 source for American pocket, HOROLOGICAL TOURS wrist and military watch material. We have all Our new 1006-£007 Catalog of PiUis the old S. LaRose American material plus re nnd Repair Supplies wr1l be available production dials, a large staff selection and crys approx. May 1, £006 HENRY B. FRIED MEMORIAL tals. We also offer a parts search service. If we Write for your ropy todil}'l OUR 35TH TOUR AND SEMINAR, TAKES US do not have it, then we probably can get it. .•,$1.00 postpd. TO CHINA- BEIJING -FORBIDDEN CITY Past Times Pocket Watch Parts LLC UNIQUE CLOCK MUSEUM, WATCH FACTO 2108 D Cheshire Way RIES, GREAT WALL; SHANGHAI - WATCH Greensboro, NC 27405 FACTORIES; XIAN - TERRA COTTA SOL [email protected] MERRITI'S DIERS; YANG-TZE 3 GORGES RIVER PH : 336-232-5188 CRUISE; ALSO INCREDIBLE SHOPPING EX FAX: 336-232-5193 CLOCK & WATCH REPAIR PERIENCE. APRIL 2008. FROM $4,950.00 ALL www.ptpwp.com SUPPLY DEPARTMENT INCLUSIVE. BROCHURE? 1-80Q-262-4284 OR 1860 Weavertown Rd, [email protected] Douglassville, PA 19518 DASHTO INC.fTOM MISTER 610-689-9541 FAX: 610-689-0567 PO Box 61894 Virginia Beach, VA 23466 http://www.dashto.com SITUATIONS WANTED Huge and everchanging selection Used and new horological items STUCK FOR A MOVEMENT? Sold by internet list only or a watch part? Call Don Kra ker's Watch Move TOOLS/EQUIPMENT ments. (559) 229-8423 or write 4325 No. 5th WATCHMAKER/TECHNICIAN MATERIAL ASSTS/PARTS St. , Fresno, CA 93726. 30 years experience POCKET/WRISTWATCHES Horology School Graduate WATCH MOVEMENTS Please contact John WATCH CASES & DIALS Clockmaking & Modelmaking Books, Videos & jbuerger25 @yahoo.com WATCH BRACELETS/BUCKLES DVDs by W. R. Smith, 8049 Camberley Drive, MUCH MORE Powell, TN 37849. Ph one 865-947-9671 ; WE BUY & TRADE ALSO E-mail: WRSmith2 @aol.com tom@ dashto.com http://dashto.org The Original Troop-Balas Labs HELP WANTED Silcon-7® Sealant $5.95 One-Dip Solution® $5.95 Crystai-Kieer® Rouge $6.50 KT-22 Microlubricant® $3.50 www.troop-balas.com WATCHMAKER 800-423-3294 Needing a highly skilled watchmaker to work in an office environment with a company with a successful 24 year fULL~ANtE!~Ieaners track record. Individual must possess WAR tlrt1ers .. ~~ good working habits to to be motivated watch to be a team player. Watchmaker must be qualified to work on quartz move ments as well as mechanical watch movements. Experience in working well with other co-workers is a must. Prefer a CMW with the new CMW21 qualifi cations to be experienced with high grade name brands. WOSTEP training is a plus. Please fax your resume/work history to 972-991-0647. If you would enjoy working in a office environment over the retail store experience, we would like to hear from YOU! www. vibrografusa.com March 2008 Horological Times 45 HELP WANTED WATCH MATERIAL DISTRIBUTORS Please call us if you are interested in selling your business. IT'S TIME WATCHMAKERS All replies confidential. TO SELL Contact Pat Cassedy Seeking experienced watchmakers trained to work on Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cas-Ker 1-800-487-0408 A WATCH Cartier, and other Richemont brands. TOP PRIC ES PAID! CW21 certification is preferred. We view watchmaking as an important profession WANTED USED WATCH BATTERIES ROLEX • PATEK PHIUPPE therefore we have a state-of-the-art VACHERON & CONSTANTI N We pay $21 .00 per pound, immediate cash , for . AUDEMARS PIGUET watchmaking shop. We enjoy a terrific used silver oxide watch batteries. Free ship BREiniNG • CA RTIER work environment and offer great com ping within continental US. Sorting service avail & OTHERS pany benefits and great pay. able. Patrick Bracken STAR REFINING LON 952-881-8862 DON 47111 Maple Ave, Grand Beach , Ml When )IO!l're t"ead)• to sdl megan @wixonjewelers.com USA 49117; Ph: 866-812-2333. E-mail: C.1// Toll Free pbracken@ starrefining .com 1-800-842-8625 Alw<1ys prompt paymem! $$WANTED ANYTHING$$ WATCHMAKER Rolex - Cartier - Patek - Breitling l .\ TTh Tr' N I '!-/t Panerai - Le Coultre V~.lll-L.A.J San Francisco-based luxury watch brand is QU\l.ITY:'::-:-'i::\V.~AT;::C:::" II::;£S~ seeking a certified and experienced Watch Vacheron- AP- Etc. maker to perform high-quality watch repairs Watches, Boxes, Dials, Links, Parts, Bands, for the brand's in-house repair workshop. Movements, Crystals, Bezels , Crowns, Clocks, Signs, Posters, Catalogs, Instruction Books, Duties include: Polish Cl oths, Wallets, Hats, Shirts, Promo • Complete battery service Items, ANYTHING! Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 • Complete movement service (repairs include crown, crystal , dial changes, etc. ) • Preparing service estimates Chronograph movements, cases, dials, parts We pay up to 97% of market for karat gold scrap • Monitoring monthly spare-part inventory and watches. Paying: Valjoux 72 - $300.00; Ve (any amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, sweeps, • Polishing and refurbishing watches daily nus 178 - $300.00; Longines 13ZN - $500.00; silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment • Maintaining clean and organized workshop Valjoux 69 - $350.00; also Rolex 620 NA - return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: $350.00. Dean Samelle, 25 W Beverley St. , AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King Staunton, VA24401; 1-866-877-8164. St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Estab We are seeking a responsible and diligent lished 1960. Phone (843) 722-2073 candidate. Someone who takes initiative and can work independently, quickly, and effi WANTED WATCH BOXES ciently. Buy - Sell - Trade WE BUY WATCHES We want most major brands. Also buying high Rolex, Patek, Cartier, LeCoultre, Vacheron, Our in-house service workshop maintains the end jewelry brand boxes. Doug Giard, 586- Breitling, Audemars, Tudor and others. Modern highest standards of service, and plays an 774-3684 or Vintage. Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 important role in building overall brand value . We are seeking a candidate who will contrib ute to the continued success of the depart ment. Complete benefits offered. WE BUY ENTIRE 415-668-7359 Ext. 426 WATCH COLLECTIONS eleanor@ bedatusa.com Call Toll Free 1-800-426-2344 203-366-2500 WANTED TO BUY We also fit glass crystals to SPECIAL TV METALS Openface, Hunting, and English REFINING chain drive watches. ATTENTION RETIRED WATCHMAKERS COMPANY, INC. Complete watches, dials, Call us before you sell your parts, tools, 1915 Black Rock Turnpike movements, case springs for sale. and watches. We have helped over 175 Fairfield, CT 06430 watchmakers in the last eight years to Members: G F Specialties dispose of their accumulations. When Ron Fried, you're really ready to sell, we're ready to President Better Business Bureau 1-800-351-6926 buy! Phone (229) 928-9092 or (727) 327- "/look forward to Jewelers Board of Trade P.O. Box 2332 3306. Ask for Jeff or Nancy. E-mail: giving you honest and 267 Consecutive Ads jeffnancy@ mchsi.com reliable service." Sanford, FL 32772 46 Horological Times March 2008 Aoofo AWCI Business & ~0% ()~~ Pricing Surveys 0~~ The AWCI Business & Pricing Surveys provide statistics on business expenses, rates charged by watchmakers and clockmakers around the country, and much more. The purpose of the business survey was to learn more about members' business environments, income, and demographics such as age and location. The results for most questions are presented with a national average and a high and low range, and regions are also broken out. The purpose of the pricing survey was to learn more about members' charges and hours, their business, their income, and their demographics such as age and location. The results for most questions are presented with a national average and a high and low range, and regions are also broken out. Do you want to increase your bottom line? Order your copy today! Examples of questions and answers in these surveys: Job Opportunities Q. Do you have enough watchmakers, repairers or technicians to Income meet consumer demand? Q. In 2005 what was your annual gross income? A. Answers ranged from 40% Yes and 33% No. Of those needing A. The average annual gross income for 2005 is $72,107. This is for additional watchmakers, repairers or technicians, the average need respondents who worked in this field full-time during the entire year was 3. of 2005. AWCI Members: $100.00 NOW $60.00 Retail: $200.00 NOW $120.00 Visit AWCI's website (www.awci.com) or call toll free 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), ext. 301 BOOKS FOR SALE The Theory of Horology The Theory of Horology is a hardcover book with 360 large semi-glossy pages of 8" x 11 W' and printed in full color. This book is a theory on horology pertaining to watches and clocks. This book is not a detailed guide of how to repair a watch or clock, but from the descriptions given and from the detailed line drawings of all types of timepieces, one can easily deduce methods of repair and re-assembly. The Theory of Horology is currently the "bible" of every novice and even the well seasoned watchmaker, clockmaker, and student. It ends with an eight (8) page section on exercises (with answers given of course) which is quite interesting. RETAIL: $174.95 AWCI MEMBERS: $157.46 The Chronograph, Its Mechanism and Repair By B. Humbert This current reprint of the 1952 original edition is a 158-page, hard cover bound book on the repair of mechanical chronograph watches. It covers virtually all of the available chronographs (both column wheel and cam operated chronographs) that were produced up until the first publication of this book. It contains very meticulous line drawings that deal with the aspects of repair, restoration and adjustments. The book of choice of all reputable watchmaking schools around the world. RETAIL: $94.95 AWCI MEMBERS: $85.46 Watch Adjustment By Hans Jendritzki This 107 -page, hard cover book is a second reprint of the original 1963 edition. Mr. Jendritzki uses no nonsense approach to watch adjustment that unfortunately has fast become a "lost art" among many mod ern practicing watchmakers. The book is profusely filled with pictures and line drawings to facilitate learning. RETAIL: $109.95 AWCI MEMBERS: $98.96 PLACE YOUR ORDER TODAY! Call AWCI1-866-367-2924 ext. 301 or visit the AWCI website www.awci.com March 2008 Horological Times 47 Black Forest Imports, Inc ...... 13 Livesay's, Inc ...... 23 (800) 824-0900 (813) 229-2715 Borel & Co. , Jules ...... inside front cover Maxell Corp ...... back cover {816) 421-6110 (201) 794-5900 Butterworth Clocks, Inc ...... 31 Micropower Battery Company ...... inside back cover {563) 263-6759 {305) 371-9200 Cas-Ker Co ...... -...... 5 Renata ...... 3 {513) 674-7700 {214) 351-0380 Chronos/WCR ...... 27 Smith Supply House ...... ,...... 17 {303) 296-1600 (213) 622-1687 Clocks ...... 29 Twin City Supply ...... 25 011 44 131 331 3200 {952) 545-2725 Eckcells ...... 21 Vibrograf U.S.A. Corp ...... 9 {800) 514-1270 {516) 437-8700 HPS Companies ...... 19 Zantech ...... 35 {866) 655-3155 {800) 441-7569 International Watch Collectors Society ...... 43 {516) 374-5060 Horological Times Advertising Policy The publisher reserves the right to approve all advertising copy and reject any advertisements not in keeping with the publisher's standards. The publisher may, at the publisher's sole discretion and for any reason and without notice, decline to publish or republish any ad, in which case any fees submitted or paid for such ads shall be returned or rebated to the advertiser. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. The advertiser and/or agency agree to assume liability for all content of advertisements printed. They will also accept responsibility for any claims or suits arising therefrom brought against the publisher. James E. Lubic, CMW21 Donna K. Baas Jim Meyer Executive Director Managing Editor/Advertising Manager IT Director Education & Technical Director 1-866-367-2924 ext. 307 1-866-367-2924 ext. 323 1-866-367-2924 ext. 310 [email protected] jmeyer@ awci.com [email protected] Nancy L. Wellmann Thomas J. Pack, CPA Education Coordinator American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute Finance Director 1-866-367-2924 ext. 303 701 Enterprise Drive 1-866-367-2924 ext. 311 nwellmann @awci.com Harrison, OH 45030 [email protected] Phone: Toll Free 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) Sharon McManus (513) 367-9800 Thomas D. Schomaker, Clv1W21 Membership Coordinator Fax: (513) 367-1414 Watchmaking Instructor/Certification 1-866-367-2924 ext. 302 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.awci.com smcmanus@ awci.com Coordinator Office Hours: 8:00 to 5:00 (EST) Mon-Fri 1-866-367-2924 ext. 309 tschomaker@ awci.com Daniela Ott Receptionist!Technical Support Laurie Penman 1-866-367-2924 ext. 301 Clock Instructor [email protected] 1-866-367-2924 ext. 318 !penman@ awci.com 48 Horological Times March 2008 ,... ' CR .com ·- The More~ You Buy The Less You Payl ~ ( MASTER DISTRIBUTORS for: ) MICRO BAlTERIES • Silver Oxide • Lithium Coin • Alkaline Button • And much more We decided to go GREEN before everyone else. Introducing 0°/o Hg, Mercury Free SR621SW • SR626SW Who are we? Micropower Battery Company has sold and distributed several hundred million batteries since 1989. For fabulous pricing, register today on our website, www-microbattery_com Then drop us an email and we'll activate your online wholesale pricing, so you can start saving right .... away. For more personal attention call us at 800-680-2355. ~ MICROPOWER BATTERY COMPANY Est. 1989 Tollfree 800-680-2355, Tel 305-371-9200, Fax 305-371-9400, Email: [email protected] Members: JBT, JIDA, FRMBC ' - A .. THOSE WHO PUT THEIR NAME ON THE OUTSIDE, PREFER OUR NAME ON THE INSIDE. RECEIVE A $1 [J.[J[J THE HOME DEPOT® GIFT CARD F'OR EVERY 1 ,CJCJ[J MAXELL SR, CR AND LR MICRO•BATTERY TEAR STRIPS PURCHASED. maxe OF'F'ER VALlO MARCH 1 • APRIL 30, 2008. THE WORLD LEADER I N MICROBATTERY TECHNOLOGY SOME RESTRICTIONS MAY APPLY. MAXELL CORPORATION OF" AMERICA IS NOT AF"F"ILIATED WITH THE HDME DEPDT8. THE HOME DEPOTS IS A REGIBTERE:D TRADEMARK DF' HDMER TLC, INC.