DUO We dove into the Atlantic off Tenerife with the new IWC Aquatimer and the Tudor Pelagos. How well did they perform during the rigors of several dives?

BY JENS KOCH AND JENS KÖPPE PHOTOS BY FREDERIK FRANKE AND OK-PHOTOGRAPHY

April 2015 WatchTime 87 COMPARATIVE TEST IWC Aquatimer Automatic vs. Tudor Pelagos

Getting ready to descend: tanks of pressurized air, a and a watch on each wrist

wimming with sea turtles, eagle rays in both directions, but for safety, the inner scale moves only when and barracudas can be so fascinating that a diver might forget the bezel is turned counterclockwise. The scale remains motionless aSbout time, so it’s a good idea to take a watch with you as well as when the bezel is turned the other way. This ensures that a diver a dive computer. We took two divers’ watches with us when we won’t shorten the indicated dive time if he happens to snag his went diving off Tenerife, in the Canary Islands: the new Aqua - wrist on a submerged rock, which could cause him to skip a cru - timer Automatic, the basic model in the Aquatimer family that cial stop. The system also has another advantage: IWC updated in 2014, and the Tudor Pelagos, the professional the crystal protects the scale and its luminous coating against divers’ watch introduced in 2012 by Rolex’s sister brand. We tested scratches and saltwater. And we found this system easier to use the watches on several dives and also examined them on land. than a watch with an inner scale that’s operated with a second Our first dive wasn’t very deep: we simply wanted to do a lit - crown. tle fish watching. We checked and donned our equipment, Tudor’s unidirectional rotating diving bezel also works impec - rechecked the in our air tanks, and fell backwards into cably. Narrow fluting makes this component even easier to grasp the water. To monitor our dive time, we turned the index on each than IWC’s. As on the Aquatimer, the Tudor’s rotatable bezel watch’s dive-time scale until it was tangent to the tip of the min - clicks into place in single-minute increments. The matte scale is utes hand. crafted from a ceramic material that doesn’t give scratches a The Aquatimer has a newly developed SafeDive bezel system chance. But the luminous coating on the scale is rather soft and that we found very user-friendly. The outer rotatable bezel turns could become scratched over the long term. another ring, safely positioned under the crystal and surrounding We began our descent and encountered our first school of gilt - the dial, on which the dive time is shown. The bezel can be rotated head seabream. We continued down to the seafloor and found two

88 WatchTime April 2015 The Tudor watch comes with a rubber strap and a titanium bracelet designed to shrink and expand automatically as descends and ascends.

SPECS IWC AQUATIMER AUTOMATIC

Manufacturer: IWC Schaffhausen, SPECS Baumgartenstrasse 15, CH-8200 Schaffhausen, Switzerland TUDOR PELAGOS Reference number: IW329001 Manufacturer: Rolex SA, rue François- Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date Dussaud 3–7, CH-1211 Geneva 26, Movement: ETA 2892 “Top,” automatic, Switzerland 28,800 vph, 21 jewels, stop-seconds function, rapid reset for the date, Reference number: 25500TN Incabloc shock absorption, Glucydur Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date balance, fine adjustment via regulator Movement: ETA 2824 “Top,” automatic, and screw, 42-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph, 25 jewels, stop-seconds diameter = 26 mm, height = 3.6 mm function, rapid reset for the date, Kif Case: S tainless steel, domed sapphire shock absorption, Glucydur balance, crystal is nonreflective on both sides, Triovis fine adjustment via screw, 38-hour dive-time ring can be reset via the bezel, power reserve, diameter = 26 mm, screwed crown, fully threaded stainless- height = 4.6 mm steel caseback, water resistant to 300 m Case: Titanium, flat sapphire crystal Strap and clasp: R ubber strap with is nonreflective on both sides, ceramic stainless-steel pin buckle bezel, valve, screwed crown, Rate results: fully threaded titanium back, water Deviations in seconds per 24 hours resistant to 500 m The IWC has a rubber strap that is textured Dial up +1 on the inside and outside. Strap and clasp: Rubber strap with titanium pin buckle and titanium bracelet Dial down +1 with stainless-steel folding clasp and Crown up +1 integrated extension Crown down +4 Rate results: Crown left +2 Deviations in seconds per 24 hours Crown right +2 Dial up +6 Greatest deviation of rate 3 Dial down +3 Average deviation +1.8 Crown up 0 Average amplitude: Crown down +7 Flat positions 295° Crown left +5 Hanging positions 253° Crown right +3 Dimensions: Diameter = 42 mm, Greatest deviation of rate 7 height = 14 mm, = 149 g Average deviation +4 Variations: With silver-plated dial; with Average amplitude: stainless-steel bracelet ($6,750) Flat positions 314° Price: $5,750 Hanging positions 288° Dimensions: Diameter = 42 mm, height = 13.5 mm, weight = 104 g Price: $4,125

April 2015 WatchTime 89 COMPARATIVE TEST IWC Aquatimer Automatic vs. Tudor Pelagos

Our boat takes us to our first diving spot.

THE AQUATIMER HAS A NEWLY DEVELOPED SAFEDIVE BEZEL SYSTEM.

rays, moray eels and a seahorse. It would be easy to lose track of time, but our underwater regimen includes regularly glancing at our pressure gauge, which shows how much pressurized air remains in our tanks, and at our watch, where we can check the dive time. After 40 minutes, the pressure gauge reminded us to begin our ascent to the surface. A problem cropped up during our first dive: both watches’ straps were too short to fit comfortably over the sleeves of our 7-mm-thick diving suits. The Tudor’s rubber strap has a divers’ extension built into the clasp that looks like a little belt, but this The Aquatimer has a strap-changing system, but it doesn’t didn’t work for us: the extended strap fit too loosely, even on its come with an extra bracelet or extension. A steel bracelet can be smallest setting. We had no choice but to partially unzip the zip - purchased separately. pers on the sleeves of our diving suits and wear both watches The Pelagos comes with an additional titanium bracelet, which around our bare wrists. can be lengthened in three steps. The third step even contains a In all other aspects, the rubber straps and pin buckles worked spring-loaded self-adjusting mechanism that lets the bracelet well on both watches. They have different decorative patterns but adjust during a dive, contracting in deep water when the diver’s are equally well crafted. Both manufacturers have added some suit is compressed and expanding as the pressure eases during his texture to the inner surface of each strap to reduce perspiration in ascent. But a special tool must be used to change the strap, so we hot weather. Both clasps are neatly crafted and each has a milled only had the rubber strap to wear on our dive. pin, although IWC’s polished edges show a bit more time spent on Both watches were comfortable to wear on land. The steel fabrication. Aquatimer is noticeably heavier than the Pelagos with its titanium

90 WatchTime April 2015 At a depth of 30 to 40 meters, we found anchors dating from the era of Christopher Columbus.

Both watches could be read easily under water.

April 2015 WatchTime 91 COMPARATIVE TEST IWC Aquatimer Automatic vs. Tudor Pelagos

We used a diving scooter on one dive, subjecting the watches to a grueling workout.

In the dark, both watches glow brightly thanks to luminous material applied amply to the hands and markers.

case. But IWC’s sturdy strap lugs ensure that the strap curves number 15 on the diving scale all glow in the same green color as downward enough to keep the watch from slipping and sliding on the minutes hand, while the hour hand and the hour indexes shim - its wearer’s wrist, even if he perspires. mer with a bluish tone. Tudor’s indicators are monochromatic but glow extremely ON OUR SECOND DAY, our diving route took us past impres - brightly in the dark. Blue’s the hue for the hour indexes and the sive fissured cliffs and gigantic canyons of petrified lava. At a hands on the dial, as well as for the triangle, the first 15-minute depth of 30 to 40 meters, we found anchors dating from Colum - indexes and the following 5-minute markers on the bezel. A typi - bus’s era that had come to rest on the ocean floor. This diving cal divers’ watch includes only a luminous dot on its rotatable area gave us a good opportunity to test how well our watches bezel, but the Pelagos and the Aquatimer offer considerably more. can be read under water. Both seconds hands glow in the dark and thus provide instant Both watches play in the major leagues. IWC accentuates the assurance that the watches are still running. dive-relevant functions on its dial with green luminous material: Half an hour into our dive, the pressure gauge showed that we the orientation triangle, the first two 5-minute indexes and the should begin our return to the surface. We ascended freely for the

92 WatchTime April 2015 When the Tudor’s strap was extended, it fit over our diver’s , but it was too loose to wear for long. indexes and a sloping flange with recessed markers. But the white outlines of the hands and indexes make this watch look more two- dimensional than the IWC. The styling goes well with the matte case, which also seems more technical due to the gray color of the DURING OUR STAY ON titanium.

TENERIFE, THE TUDOR THE NEXT MORNING we again headed for the ocean. We took underwater scooters with us on this dive: the electric-powered GAINED 6 SECONDS scooters accelerated swiftly and pulled us quickly through the water, creating an especially grueling ordeal for our watches. PER DAY AND Resistance to water pressure is a theoretical value: no one THE IWC 3 SECONDS. actually dives to such great depths, but the number indicates the sturdiness and security the case can provide during momentary peaks of extraordinarily high pressure, for instance, when leaping off a diving board or being pulled along by a dive scooter. The practical value of a helium valve is limited to pressurized cham - bers, which an amateur who dives only as a hobby never enters. first 20 meters and gradually worked our way up toward the sun - Such valves are not necessary in the water. light. After pausing for 3 minutes of decompression and for an The Pelagos offers pressure resistance to spare: its titanium additional safety stop, we finally broke through the water’s sur - case can withstand pressure to 500 meters and also has a helium- face after a total of 50 minutes. release valve. Titanium is well suited for a divers’ watch because, Aboard our boat, we examined the dials and hands of these unlike stainless steel, it is totally unaffected by saltwater. Steel watches in broad daylight. Both watches are handsome and have watches should be rinsed in tap water after they’ve been in contact a “tool-watch” look. The dial of the Aquatimer looks more three- with saltwater because brine, together with heat or warmth, can dimensional thanks to its applied indexes and the inward slope of cause pitting corrosion over the long term. its diving scale. Together with the silver-colored hands and indexes, The component that looks like a helium valve on the left side this creates a more elegant appearance, which goes well with the of the Aquatimer’s case in fact serves to transfer rotary motion case and its polished edges. from the bezel to the inside of the case. The bezel is toothed on its One of the first features one notices on the Tudor’s dial is the underside to engage with the drive wheel. The drive wheel’s staff famous “snowflake” hands. Like the IWC, the Tudor has applied then transfers the motion into the case. The so-called “driving pin -

94 WatchTime April 2015 COMPARATIVE TEST IWC Aquatimer Automatic vs. Tudor Pelagos

SCORES IWC AQUATIMER AUTOMATIC Strap and clasp (max. 10 points): The rubber strap and its pin buckle are well crafted; a system for changing straps is included. 8 Operation (5): The protected diving scale is easy to operate; the screwed crown offers a sure grip. 5 Case (10): The case scores points with its innovative bezel system and its high- quality craftsmanship, which includes satin-finished surfaces and polished edges. 9 Design (15): IWC has somewhat modernized and elevated the Aquatimer’s design so this watch also looks good with a blazer. 14 Legibility (5): The Aquatimer is easy to read under all lighting conditions. Ditto for the dive time, where the legibility is enhanced by plenty of luminous coating. 5 Wearing comfort (10): The strap’s ends curve at the case to assure a firm and comfortable fit on the wrist. 9 Movement (20): The “Top” version of ETA’s standard Caliber 2892 guarantees reliability and easy servicing. 12 The Aquatimer contains ETA Caliber 2892, which IWC designates Caliber 30120. Rate results (10): IWC impressed our testers with low deviations among the various positions and an only minimal ion” engages with the scale, which is also toothed on its underside. gain. 10 This arrangement enables the user to turn the inner ring by turn - Overall value (15): Despite the newly ing the outer bezel. To permit only counterclockwise rotation, the developed dive-time system and the good driving pinion’s staff has sawtooth-shaped teeth and is carried craftsmanship, we found the price too along in only this one direction by the driving disk, which is also high. On the other hand, the IWC name cut with sawtooth-shaped teeth and motionlessly affixed to the makes a good resale value likely. 12 staff. In the other direction, a locking piece firmly holds the driv - TOTAL: 84 POINTS ing pinion so it cannot move and also assures that the scale always moves in single-minute increments. Two insulators prevent water from penetrating through the additional opening in the case. The Aquatimer’s bezel mechanism is one of the reasons the Operating the screwed crowns is smooth sailing: IWC’s is IWC watch costs significantly more than the Tudor. The IWC’s somewhat easier to grasp because it has no protectors alongside it, case, with domed crystal and polished edges, also shows that this but Tudor’s crown is also quite user-friendly. Both watches offer manufacturer invested more labor in its construction and produc - the convenience of rapid resetting for the date displays and stop- tion. Its water resistance of 300 meters is more than adequate for seconds mechanisms for precise time setting. a dive watch. If you unscrew the fully threaded casebacks, old friends come to light. IWC designates its ETA 2892 as Caliber 30120, while RETURNING TO LAND, we found a few seats at an outdoor Tudor calls the ETA 2824 in its watch simply “2824.” Millions of café on a shady street and took a closer look at our watches. The these calibers have been produced and proven themselves to be dives had left their mark on both cases. The Tudor’s titanium robust and reliable workhorses. Tudor uses the “Top” (the best) housing showed several scratches. The blemishes weren’t quite version and replaces the fine adjustment mechanism: instead of a so obvious on IWC’s case. regulator and an eccentric, the brand opts for Triovis fine adjust -

96 WatchTime April 2015 SCORES TUDOR PELAGOS Strap and clasp (max. 10 points): Tidy craftsmanship characterizes the rubber strap and its additional extension. Tudor’s package also includes a titanium bracelet with an extension and a pressure-compensating clasp. 8 Operation (5): The diving bezel clicks precisely into place and the crown is easy to grasp despite the crown protectors. 5 Case (10): The titanium case’s virtues include tidy craftsmanship, a helium valve, resistance to the corrosive effects of salt - water and high resistance to pressure. The ceramic bezel is scratch resistant, but the luminous coating on it is vulnerable to abrasion and could get rubbed off. 8 Design (15): Boldly styled luminous hands and a satin-finished titanium case underscore the “tool-watch” look. 14 Legibility (5): Tudor offers an especially bright blue luminous substance, which is also used on the diving scale. 5 Wearing comfort (10): This watch is very comfortable to wear thanks to its light weight and its soft rubber strap. 9 Movement (20): Top-quality version of the robust ETA Caliber 2824, which has been rebuilt to include Triovis fine adjustment 12 The Tudor Pelagos is powered by the ETA 2824, altered to include Triovis fine adjustment. Rate results (10): The deviations among the several positions are sufficiently small, as is the gain. 7 A SIGNIFICANT PRICE DIFFERENCE separates these two Overall value (15): Tudor offers plenty watches: IWC’s model sells for $5,750 while Tudor’s costs for a moderate price with the titanium $4,125. The Aquatimer earns praise for visibly finer craftsman - case, two straps and a ceramic bezel. ship, a practical bezel system with protected luminous coating And this brand’s image is growing and a well-engineered method for switching straps. The Pelagos stronger, too. 14 scores extra points for its titanium case, high resistance to pres - TOTAL: 82 POINTS sure, helium-release valve, two straps and its additional exten - sion piece. Whether one wants to take a costly watch along on a dive is a question that each diver must answer for himself. The danger ment. IWC makes no constructive changes to the 2892, but the of completely losing the watch is very high. But our test showed movement is enhanced with decorative patterns. that both watches are well suited to diving. IWC’s innovative During our stay on Tenerife, the Tudor gained 6 seconds per rotatable system markedly improves the diving bezel. Its pres - day and the IWC just 3 seconds per day. Similar results were ence, along with the high-quality appearance of the entire shown on the timing machine, where Tudor’s watch posted an watch, might persuade a potential buyer to pay the extra price. average deviation of +4 seconds per 24 hours in all positions. Its Tudor also builds a good-looking classic dive watch and further greatest deviation among the various positions was an acceptable tempts customers by providing a strap and a bracelet as stan - 7 seconds. IWC’s timepiece performed even better: its average dard equipment. Ultimately, however, IWC’s excellent rate deviation was just +1.8 seconds, and with 3 seconds for the great - results earned the Aquatimer more points than we gave to the est deviation of rate, all values remained close together. more favorably priced Pelagos. 

April 2015 WatchTime 97