Liwa Journal of the National Archives
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Volume 7 • Number 14 • December 2015 ISSN 1729-9039 Liwa Journal of the National Archives Editor-In-Chief Dr. Abdulla El Reyes Director General of the National Archives Deputy Editor-In-Chief Advisory Board Majid Sultan Al Mehairi H.E. Zaki Anwar Nusseibeh Adviser in the Ministry of Presidential Affairs, Deputy Managing Editor Chairman of Abu Dhabi Authority for Culture and Dr. L. Usra Soffan Heritage (ADACH) and Board Member of National Archives Editorial Board Prof. Mustafa Aqil al- Khatib Dr. Jayanti Maitra Professor of Modern History-Qatar University Farhan Al Marzooqi Dr. John E. Peterson Saeed Al Suwaidi Historian and Political Analyst Gregory Keith Iverson, Ph.D. Dr. Muhammad Sa’ad al- Muqaddam Editorial Secretary Assistant Professor of Modern History Nouf Salem Al Junaibi Sultan Qaboos University Dr. Sa’ad Abdulla al- Kobaisi Design & Layout Assistant Professor of Anthropology Printing Unit UAE University National Archives, 2014 © Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates The Editor of theLiwa Journal (ISSN 1729-9039) invites the submission of original and unpublished scholarly articles in English and Arabic related to archaeology, history and heritage of the UAE and the Arabian Gulf region. Manuscripts and all other correspondences concerning ‘Liwa’ should be addressed to: [email protected] Books sent for review in the Journal cannot be returned. For more details about ‘Liwa’ and subscriptions, access www.na.ae The views expressed in this issue are those of the individual authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the Editorial Board or the National Archives. Printed in the National Archives Printing Press LiwaJournal of the National Archives Volume 7 • Number 14 • December 2015 Contents Reflections on the Social History of Al Muwaij’ei Oasis in the Mid-20th Century 3 Shamsa Mohamed Al-Dhahiri Researcher at Zayed Center for Studies & Research TARIF & MURBAN No.1, 1954 28 Peter Walmsley, MBE 2 3 Reflections on the Social History of Al Muwaij’ei Oasis in the Mid-20th Century Shamsa Mohamed Al-Dhahiri Muwaij’ei is a patch of productive land in the extreme west of the Al-Ain Oases and is thus part of Al-Ain City. It was virtually a farming estate owned by the Al-Nahyan Ruling Family and had later developed into their main sphere of influence in the eastern region of the Abu Dhabi Emirate. It was inhabited due to its plentiful water, its beautiful atmosphere, and its central location within the agricultural estates of Sheikh Khalifa Bin Zayed I (1855-1945), eldest son of the Ruler of the Emirate of Abu Dhabi, Sheikh Zayed Bin Khalifa Al-Nahyan (1855-1909), which extended from Al-Mo’tarid Oasis to Al-Mas’oudi on the northern edge of Al-Ain. Sheikh Khalifa Bin Zayed made Muwaij’ei a summer resort for himself and his followers. In 1946 when late Sheikh Zayed Bin Sultan Al-Nahyan launched his political debut as the Ruler’s Representative in the Eastern Region of the Emirate of Abu Dhabi, he made Muwaij’ei his official residence. Thereafter, Muwaij’ei became the focal point of several developmental projects. He established a court of justice (Shari'a court), a school, a hospital, and other facilities hitherto unknown in Abu Dhabi’s developmental drive. These advancements ensured a decent living for Muwaij’ei citizens and encouraged others to abandon the Bedouin style of life and settle in Muwaij’ei. Thus the population of the Oasis’ steadily increased, and its name began to feature in the contemporary records dealing with the history of the Emirate in that era. These sources describe the status of Muwaij’ei, numbers of houses and names of the dwellers thereof. However, the questions that may be posed at this juncture are: What did those sources say about Muwaij’ei? Is there any historical evidence that may help save features of the past? What about the population and names of the districts and the economic and social activities? More importantly, Muwaij’ei’s origin goes back to which era? 2 3 Shamsa Mohamed Al-Dhahiri Sheikh Zayed Bin Sultan Al Nahyan, Ruler’s Representative in Al Ain, 1946-66. Wilfred Thesiger/Copyright Pitt Rivers Museum, University of Oxford. 4 5 Reflections on the Social History of Al Muwaij’ei Oasis in the Mid-20th Century View of a crowd of people standing on a small dune in front of Al Muwai’jei fort in Al Ain. This image was taken between December 20, 1948, and January 27, 1949, when Wilfred Thesiger stayed with Sheikh Zayed in Al Ain. Wilfred Thesiger/Copyright Pitt Rivers Museum, University of Oxford. Muwai’jei Fort during Sheikh Zayed’s tenure as the Ruler’s Representative in Al Ain. Settlement and agricultural activity Archaeological excavations undertaken in the area of Qasr (“palace”) Al-Muwaij’ei, prove that the roots of the Muwaij’ei settlement go back to the 17th and 18th centuries. However, Islamic era potteries dating from the 16th to the 18th centuries provide limited evidence of agricultural activities1. Accredited sources indicate that until 4 5 Shamsa Mohamed Al-Dhahiri the second decade of the 20th century, Muwaij’ei was uninhabited2 and that the credit goes to Sheikh Khalifa Bin Zayed I for establishing a settlement there after he acquired possession of vast palm tree plantations there, and in the 1920s, built a palace which is now known as Muwaij’ei Fort or Palace. Thus, Muwaij’ei became a permanent residence, not just a summer resort for the Sheikh and his followers3. Palm tree plantations in Al Muwai’jei. Agriculture was the main occupation in the Muwaij’ei Oasis; it started long before settlers and owners of arable land began to practice farming and build houses there. Agriculture was simple and nature-oriented; i.e. as much as the climate and the soil permitted. It was divided into two main sections: The permanent farming of date palms; and the seasonal cultivation of certain crops. Historically, date palm cultivation and nurturing received the greatest attention as this activity constituted the core and crux of the local economy. The palm tree provided not only food, but also building materials. Dates are a rich source of energy. Date varieties, especially in Muwaij’ei, were among the best, thanks to the efforts of Sheikh Khalifa Bin Zayed I who fetched such varieties from Liwa on camelback and introduced them into Muwaij’ei. These varieties included debas, haiyri, barhi, lulu, khaskar and others4. It is estimated that more than 5,351 old palm trees still exist to this day5. A lady who had lived in Muwaij'ei recalls how land was assigned to the Al- Nahyan owners; she recounted that, “Sheikh Khalifa Bin Zayed I assigned the land south of Amid Falaj Al-Muwaij’ei to the sons of Sheikh Sultan Bin Zayed Al-Nahyan, and the land north of Amid Al-Falaj to the sons of Sheikh Mohamed Bin Khalifa Bin Zayed Al-Nahyan. Thus, the Falaj (underground water channel) was divided6. 6 7 Reflections on the Social History of Al Muwaij’ei Oasis in the Mid-20th Century Wheat spikelets and Falaj Al-Muwaij’ei The land of Muwaij’ei has also allowed the cultivation of other crops including fruits (such as grapes, figs, pomegranates, lemon and mango), as well as vegetables (such as okra, tomato, beans, onions, eggplants, and cucumber). Clover was next to palms both in importance and space, considering that both the climate and the soil favored its cultivation7. Additionally, grains, such as wheat, were grown in the spring and harvest time was accompanied with a feast. A resident of the area described how “vast areas were cultivated with wheat; as palm trees needed but little irrigation when the weather became mild, Falaj Al-Muwaij'ei canals used to be diverted from the west of the palace to irrigate the wheat-cultivated areas. Those areas extended from the west of the Muwaij’ei Palace southwards to the Muwaij’ei date palm plantations. Such farms were not the sole property of the Al-Nahyan family; they were mostly owned by citizens of Al-Ain’s different oases who used to come over to cultivate wheat in Muwaij’ei. We belong to Al-Mo’tarid Oasis, but our family had its share of land there equal to 15 square meters. For harvesting purposes, a huge platform used to be erected nearby, and when the day came, it was cleaned and prepared to receive the wheat spikelets. Thus the place became a hub and the men gathered around to ceremonially beat the spikelets while some sang and danced in circles to inspire and encourage the harvesters. Then the grains were separated from the straws. It is reported that it was Sheikh Khalifa Bin Zayed I who ordered the cultivation of wheat in large areas of Muwaij’ei and the distribution of plots to sons of Al-Ain”8. Muwaij’ei residents considered the aflaj as their life-line. 6 7 Shamsa Mohamed Al-Dhahiri Undoubtedly, Muwaij’ei residents considered the aflaj as their very life line; for without these water resources, they would have fallen apart and the green patch of land would have disappeared, rendering the region a barren desert. Opinions differ as to the time of building of the Muwaij’ei falaj. Some suggest that it was Sheikh Khalifa Bin Zayed I (1855-1909) who ordered the widening of that falaj, that took nearly two years to be accomplished. This indicates that the falaj was already in existence in the 19th century. Others say that it was Sheikh Sultan Bin Zayed I (1922-1926) who ordered its drilling in his reign, an endeavor that actually took two years9.