H E R O P K T I M S B I A Zucchini-Pancetta Pasta | Paprika Shrimp R Italy’s Spain’s L H L C

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K Chicken Vindaloo | Mile-High Quiche H Mumbai’s Seattle’s O A N O C G E U O T H Y E W A Y

◆ CHANGE THE WAY YOU COOK MAY – JUNE 2020 ◆

In Galilee, spices make the dish Spiced Chicken Traybake

Crispy Pork Carnitas from Oaxaca…Cheddar Scones with Black Pepper

20_0506_MSM_FrontCover.indd 1 3/9/20 12:22 PM ◆ May–June 2020 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine Change The Way You Cook ◆ RECIPE INDEX

Cookish: Throw It Together Chicken and Orzo Soup; Charred Brussels Sprouts; Dry-Fried Beef and Celery �������������6 Fennel-Orange Salad with Harissa and Yogurt Almonds, olives and mint add briny pops of fresh flavor to a fennel salad ���������������������7 Garlicky Spiced Chicken and Potato Traybake with Pomegranate Molasses In Galilee, Reem Kassis revamps a basic chicken traybake with a custom spice blend ����� 8 Garlicky Spiced Chicken Traybake...... Page 8 Vietnamese Scallion Sauce Fennel-Orange Salad with Harissa ...... Page 7 Scallions become a savory sauce perfect for shrimp, steak or veggies in Vietnam ����������� 9 Spanish Shrimp and Chickpea Stew Spanish smoked paprika infuses a brothy crock of tender beans ������������������������������ 10 Vietnamese Caramel Chicken In Ho Chi Minh City, cooks lacquer chicken with an easy savory-sweet sauce ������������� 11 Lahmajoun This meat-topped flatbread is the Levant’s answer to pizza ����������������������������������������14 Fast & Slow: Cannellini Beans with Basil, Tomatoes and Parmesan Cheesy, tomatoey baked beans at the speed you need ���������������������������������������������� 16 Greek Braised Chicken with Tomatoes and Cinnamon Sweet spices create a savory sauce for a simple Greek chicken ���������������������������������� 17 Pasta with Zucchini, Pancetta and Saffron ���������������������������� Deep-Dish Quiche with Mushrooms....Page 25 Zucchini, pancetta and Parmesan combine for a fresh, rich pasta 18 Carnitas with Pickled Red Onions...... Page 22 Patatas Bravas These potatoes are creamy, crunchy and doused with a smoky paprika sauce ���������������20 Chicken Vindaloo In Mumbai, sweet chilies and vinegar pack bold, easy flavor into a one-pan meal ���������21 Carnitas Shredded, sauced and crisped—the tender, juicy pork you need for your tacos �������������22 Cooking School: Shredded Salads Roughing up root vegetables brings out the sweetness in carrots, jicama and beets �������24 Deep-Dish Quiche with Mushrooms, Bacon and Gruyère Crème fraîche and fewer eggs lighten this mile-high quiche ��������������������������������������25 Yogurt Panna Cotta with Sumac Syrup In Tel Aviv, tangy yogurt makes for a creamier version of an Italian classic ����������������� 28 Savory Kale and Two-Cheese Scones Beet and Carrot Salad...... Page 24 Lahmajoun...... Page 14 A Tuscan pasta inspired this dinner-for-breakfast baked treat �����������������������������������29 Cilantro Rice A bracing, herbaceous paste transforms a simple pot of white rice �����������������������������30 [ EVERY I SSUE] Meze: Lessons and discoveries from Milk Street ������������������������������������������������������2 Tuesday Nights at Milk Street: Casual dinners. Fast. ���������������������������������������������� 4 Kitchen Counts: Taking the measure of fresh herbs, whole vs. chopped ���������������������30 Off the Air: Questions from Milk Street Radio, answered �����������������������������������������31 Kitchen Cabinet: Jenn Louis’ Tuesday night chickpea solution ���������������������������������32 Book Reviews ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������32 Sketchbook: Flatbreads from around the world ����������������������������������������������������33

Front Cover Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin Cilantro Rice...... Page 30 Front Cover Illustration: Bill Sanderson; Back Cover Photo: Christopher Warde-Jones Yogurt Panna Cotta...... Page 28

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20_0506_MSM_TOC.indd 2 3/9/20 12:25 PM May–June 2020

[ EDITOR’S NOTE] C hristopher K imball Life Among the Ruins

President and Founder Christopher Kimball unrise in mexico where I met a woman sitting Media Director and Co-Founder City. We drive south by a small wood fire and pur- Melissa Baldino Editorial Director - J.M. Hirsch to Xochimilco, an area chased a tamale that she had Food Editor - Matthew Card Art Director - Jennifer Baldino Cox famous for 100 miles of cooked in a corn husk. Was I still Managing Editor - Shaula Clark S Books & Special Editions Editor - Michelle Locke interconnected canals that run in the same century? Digital Content Editor - Alison Spiegel between artificial islands called The beans finish simmering Recipe Editor - Dawn Yanagihara Senior Staff Writer - Albert Stumm chinampas. The islands are used in an earthenware cazuela, we Staff Writer - Josephine Yang Contributing Food Editor - Bianca Borges for agriculture: corn, beans, heat up a comal and roast salsa Science Editor - Guy Crosby flowers. Mexico City is a valley ingredients, a sofrito is quick- Magazine Design - Joe Dizney Production Manager - A.K. Summers built on a lake, and these canals cooked and then added to the Art Director, Photography - Brianna Coleman beans at the end of cooking. Art Director, Digital - Devin Sullivan used to run into the center of Graphic Designer - Sophia Valentini the city. Now, they are kept clear Short on implements, García Director of Recipe Development - Diane Unger Culinary Manager - Wes Martin with giant rusted mechanical makes the salsa using the bot- Senior Recipe Developers - Erika Bruce, Courtney Hill dredgers that churn up lily pads tom of a beer glass, crushing Recipe Developer - Rebecca Richmond Assistant Recipe Developers - Calvin Cox, Rose Hattabaugh and other growth that chokes the chilies and tomatoes in a Contributing Recipe Developers - Lynn Clark, Laura Russell the narrow waterways. metal bowl. Culinary Assistant - Elizabeth Mindreau Director of Education - Rosemary Gill In a pale predawn glow, we finally spot the The beans are a revelation—saucy, flavor- Cooking School Manager - April Dodd parking lot next to the boats, which is home ful and bright with sofrito and salsa. Like Media Relations Director - Deborah Broide Brand Development - Christopher Johnson to stray dogs—they circle, unsteady, wary of campers, we eat the beans using small blue corn Vice President of Marketing - David Mack Director of Underwriting - Lisa Hensiek humans. The partially roofed flat-bottomed tortillas folded up as makeshift spoons. Cold Television and Video Co-Executive Producer - Carly Helmetag barges run 40 feet long, with a small outboard beer is poured. The sun is warm. I had come Radio Co-Executive Producer - Annie Sinsabaugh Associate Producer - Jackie Noack for power. Eduardo García, chef/owner of thousands of miles to eat beans on a small Production Assistant - Sarah Clapp Digital Content Director - Evan Petto Máximo Bistrot, is waiting for us, along with a island constructed by the Aztecs before Europe Digital Content Coordinator - Janelle Cox Director of E-Commerce - Missy Sternlicht few kitchen staff, a large pot of soaked beans had entered the Renaissance. Buyer, E-Commerce Merchandising - Jem Wilner and a cooler filled with ingredients. We are That evening, I eat at La Capital: shrimp E-Commerce Operations Manager - McKenzie Lewis E-Commerce Culinary Coordinator - Julia Rackow headed to a small island to prepare García’s cebiche followed by duck enchiladas in a com- E-Commerce Customer Service Associate - Sara McDermott Executive Asst./Office Manager - Maria DeRobertis famous beans for lunch. plex mole negro. There is great Italian food at Circulation Director - Stuart Jordan It’s chilly on the water. The guide running Rosetta, new classics at García’s own Máximo Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Magazine (ISSN 2473-7305), number 21, is published bimonthly by CPK Media LLC, 177 Milk the outboard is wrapped in a thick gray parka; and some of the best street food in the world, Street, Boston, MA 02109. Copyright 2020 CPK Media LLC. Period- the rest of us are huddled on wooden benches. including the now-famous chilaquiles sandwich. icals postage paid at Boston, MA and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Christopher Kimball’s We are on a working barge, not one of the Mexico City is home to nearly 9 million—more Milk Street Magazine, P.O. Box 37338, Boone, IA 50037-0338. For subscription and gift subscription orders, subscription inquiries brightly painted tourist boats, and we pass lone than 20 million if you count the entire valley— or change-of-address notices, go to service.milkstreetmagazine.com or write to us at Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street, P.O. Box 37338, workers poling up the canal in small skiffs. and it’s a ragtag mix of traffic jams, energy, Boone, IA 50037-0338. Mist hugs the canal, but the tops of scraggly and exuberant growth in all directions. Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Cooking School offers online classes as well as instruction at 177 Milk Street in Boston. For our trees are now bright in the sunrise. Pelicans The detritus of history persists: Roman curriculum and schedule, go to 177milkstreet.com/cookingschool. swoop low over the water. We finally turn into roads, amphitheaters and aqueducts. Istanbul’s Milk Street Sessions: Milk Street offers live cooking sessions and interviews with guest chefs, cookbook authors and food experts. a small dirt embankment, the barge running Hagia Sophia and the stunning Basilica Cis- Check 177milkstreet.com/cookingschool for updates. right up to the shore. We unload, the cooking tern, both built in the sixth century. The Zig- Milk Street Tours: Tours of our Milk Street kitchen are available on a first-come, first-served basis, usually the first Monday of every fires get started, and the day starts to warm. gurat of Ur in Iraq, built in 2100 B.C. As I walk month. Reservations required. Contact us at cookingschool Xochimilco makes me wonder if we are around the Zócalo, the central square in Mexico @177milkstreet.com. Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Radio is broadcast weekly on living among the ruins. The Aztecs who built City, I see the ruins of an Aztec temple with a public radio stations nationwide. Our weekly podcast is available these islands over 600 years ago constructed few locals dressed as warriors and burning on iTunes. For more, go to milkstreetradio.com. Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Television airs weekly on public underwater fences made from woven reeds, incense. This is as remote from real Aztec life television stations nationwide. then filled these areas with volcanic soil and as “Ben-Hur” was from Rome in its heyday. Job postings at Milk Street are available at 177milkstreet.com/jobs. vegetation until an island emerged above the The real Mexico City is not to be found in To receive free recipes from Milk Street or Christopher Kimball’s lake. Years ago, I visited the Mayan ruins at Aztec temples—it’s on the street. The food, the Swearing Hill News, sign up at 177milkstreet.com/newsletter. You can write to us at Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street, 177 Milk Uxmal and Chichen Itza in the Yucatan and, motley stew of languages and dialects from Street, Boston, MA 02109, or email us your cooking questions at years later, Tikal in Guatemala. I remember around the world, the struggles and joys of daily [email protected]. Printed in the U.S.A. climbing down from the top of a pyramid in life, and the first bite of a food cart pork taco.

Illustration: John Dykes John Illustration: Tikal in late afternoon, into the jungle twilight, Life goes on among the ruins. ◆

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20_0506_MSM_EdLetter.indd 1 3/10/20 12:51 PM | ■ ◆ Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine

Meze Small Bites from Milk Street

they allow steam to rise up spread. We like it smeared Refreshing through the slats, yet the on toast, stirred into Limeade, Ho dumplings slide free easily. oatmeal, mixed with fresh It also was great for goat cheese for a spread, Chi Minh Style steaming delicate white folded into whipped cream nnumerable coffee shops fish. A similar disk—the and swirled into warm I dot Ho Chi Minh City, Laxhand Pressure Cooker squash soup. We also like and the beverage of choice Rack—is available on for most Vietnamese is the Amazon for about $10. potent local coffee—hot or cold—blended with sweetened condensed milk. No Open Fire But for something with a bit less octane, customers at Needed for Cheo Leo Café—the oldest These Creamy coffee shop in the city— order sûra dá chanh, a blend Chestnuts of lime juice and sweetened hese days, all manner This rich chestnut spread condensed milk mixed Tof seeds and nuts are has sweet and savory uses. with crushed ice. Stirred pureed into spreadable until it melts a bit, the butters, from cashews and to whisk a teaspoon of the drink is refreshing, tangy almonds to sunflower seeds puree and a splash of vinegar and not too sweet. To make, and pepitas. One of our into the pan juices of a in a highball glass combine favorite recent finds in this roasted chicken with fresh the juice of 1 lime, ¼ cup Vietnamese limeade is tangy, cooling and lightly sweet. category: chestnuts. The tarragon for a Provençal- sweetened condensed spread—called crème de style dinner. And of milk and ¼ cup seltzer by Gentlemen’s Hardware marrons and popular in course there’s no shame in water. Stir, then add will make your packing a A Slicker Way France for several centu- eating it straight from the crushed ice to fill the glass. little easier. Resembling an to Steam ries—is made by cooking spoon. Amazon sells a oversized Swiss Army chestnuts with sugar and variety of brands, including e love making tender, knife, the gizmo folds away vanilla, then pureeing the 500-gram jars of Clément plump steamed everything you need for W mixture into a thick, sweet Faugier Chestnut Spread For Mixology dumplings, but we hate muddling, stirring, straining, for about $13. how they tend to stick to on the Move zesting and more. It even the bamboo slats of our f you are prone to mixing includes a jigger, can and steamer basket. Prying cocktails on the road, the bottle openers, a corkscrew I them loose too often tears 10 in 1 Cocktail Multi-Tool and a channel knife for them, releasing all their when fancy garnishes are a flavorful fillings. Many must. Available for about cooks get around this by $21 on Amazon. lining their steamers with lettuce leaves. But during a recent visit to Hong Kong, we discovered another approach: perforated stainless steel disks that can be placed in the steamer. Lightly oiled (or No more torn dumplings,

Create cocktails on the go with this tool. misted with cooking spray), thanks to this steel disk. Photos: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

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20_0506_MSM_Meze.indd 2 3/10/20 1:09 PM May–June 2020

“I like chicken a lot because chicken is generous — that is to say, it’s obedient. It will do whatever you tell it to do.” —Maya Angelou

A Boxier Box Grater A Tasty “Friend ow to improve the for Rice” Hbasic box grater? Make it boxier. British A Pantry housewares designer Joseph Joseph’s Prism is Sauce a rectangular grater that sits with Punch snugly on top of a plastic container for catching n Ho Chi Minh City, and containing the shreds home cooks keep jars of I of food. A comfortable chili-garlic sauce on hand Chili-garlic sauce adds silicone handle on top and for adding subtle heat and subtle heat and deep flavor. non-slip feet make it Japan’s furikake seasons rice—and much more. gentle garlic flavor to all comfortable and conve- manner of dishes. The 6 inches, dry outer layers nient to use. Available for ome 100 or so Shiso Furikake gets its flavor is more nuanced discarded, and roughly $20 at JosephJoseph.com. years ago, seasoned distinctive color and and less fiery-sharp than chopped), 2 small shallots ◆ S crushed sesame seeds anise flavor from dried purchased chili-garlic (roughly chopped) and were a solution to shiso leaves, as well as sauces. The sauce—which 1 teaspoon kosher salt. the problem of calcium crunchy-nutty notes we gladly spoon over rice Blend until finely minced, deficiency in the from white and black and noodle dishes, as well 30 to 60 seconds. Scrape Japanese diet. Fast sesame seeds. It has a as into sauces and over the mixture into a forward a century and salty, deep umami roast meats—will keep in 10-inch skillet. Set furikake has evolved flavor that is delicious a tightly sealed jar in the over medium-low into a delicious dry sprinkled on freshly refrigerator for up to two and cook, stirring condiment sprinkled sliced mango and weeks. To make, in a occasionally and liberally over all grilled fruit. It also is blender, combine 1 cup adjusting the heat manner of dishes, excellent dusted over neutral oil, 12 Fresno to maintain gentle particularly rice. seared scallops and chilies (stemmed, seeded bubbling, until the solids Previously known as tossed with grilled and roughly chopped), are completely broken gohan no tomo—or shrimp. We also like 6 medium garlic cloves down and paste-like, about “a friend for rice”—the the company’s Aji Nori (smashed and peeled), 30 minutes. Transfer to a mix began as a blend Furikake, which has a 2 stalks lemon grass small bowl or glass jar and A box grater that corrals of finely ground fish green hue from strips (trimmed to the lower 5 to cool completely. shreds—for less messy prep. bones, sesame seeds, of nori seaweed and a poppy seeds and sweet-briny flavor from seaweed—all high in a mix of sugar and Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street calcium. Today, the sea salt. It is great on is changing how we cook… fish bones are gone and rice, but also is terrific …by adapting bold, simple recipes from around the world the focus is more on for topping steamed for home cooks everywhere. Find all our recipes, shop flavor, with numerous broccoli, roasted our favorite products and learn more about public television’s variations available. potatoes and buttered Milk Street Television, Milk Street Radio and our online Two of our favorites popcorn. Both are and in-person Milk Street Cooking School at: are made by Santaka available on Amazon for about $15. 177MILKSTREET.COM Spice in Japan. Ume ◆ Illustration: John Dykes; Photos: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

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20_0506_MSM_Meze.indd 3 3/10/20 1:09 PM | ■ ◆ Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine Tuesday Nights

Pozole with Collard Greens oak 2 ancho chilies (stemmed and Sseeded) in boiling water for 10 minutes. Drain, then add to a blender with 1 medium white onion (roughly chopped), 1 pound plum tomatoes (cored and halved), 2 teaspoons dried oregano and 2 teaspoons cumin seeds. Puree until smooth. In a large pot over medium-high, heat 2 table- spoons neutral oil until shimmering. Add the puree and cook, stirring, until slightly thickened and darker, about 10 minutes. Add a 28-ounce can hominy (drained) and 1 bunch collard greens (stemmed and chopped), then cook, stirring, until the collards begin to wilt and turn bright green, Rigatoni with Artichokes, about 2 minutes. Add 1 quart low-sodium Japanese-Style Beef Curry chicken broth, 2 cups water, 2 teaspoons Basil and Pecorino n a medium bowl, toss 1½ pounds kosher salt and 1 teaspoon black pepper. or this recipe, be sure to purchase jarred I boneless beef short ribs (trimmed and Bring to a boil over high, then cover and Fmarinated artichoke hearts—they offer cut into ½-inch chunks) with ¼ cup reduce to medium. Cook, stirring occasionally, much more flavor than canned or frozen. In all-purpose flour until well coated. In until the collards are tender, about 45 minutes. a large Dutch oven, cook 1 pound rigatoni a large pot over medium-high, heat Stir in 2 tablespoons lime juice, then taste pasta in 4 quarts water and 1 tablespoon 3 tablespoons neutral oil until shimmering. and season with salt and pepper. Serve with kosher salt until just shy of al dente. Reserve Add the beef, reduce to medium and cook, lime wedges on the side. ◆ 2 cups of cooking water, then drain. Wipe stirring, until lightly browned, about out the pot, add ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 3 minutes. Add 1 medium yellow onion and heat over medium-high until shimmering. (finely chopped) and 2 tablespoons finely Add 3 cups drained oil-marinated artichoke grated fresh ginger. Cook, stirring, until hearts (patted dry) and cook, stirring, until the onion has softened, 2 to 3 minutes. well browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Add 4 medium Add 1 tablespoon each curry powder garlic cloves (finely grated) and½ teaspoon and garam masala. Cook, stirring, for red pepper flakes, then cook, stirring, until 30 seconds. Add 3 cups low-sodium chicken fragrant, about 30 seconds. Return the broth, 3 tablespoons soy sauce and pasta to the pot, along with 1½ cups of the 2 tablespoons mirin. Bring to a boil, then reserved pasta water. Cook, uncovered and reduce to medium-low and simmer, stirring often, until the pasta is al dente and uncovered and stirring occasionally, until little liquid remains, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove a skewer inserted into the beef meets no from the heat. Add 2 ounces finely grated resistance, about 25 minutes. Add 2 large pecorino Romano cheese (1 cup), 1 table- carrots (peeled, halved lengthwise and spoon grated lemon zest and 2 tablespoons sliced ¼ inch thick) and cook until tender, lemon juice, 1 cup fresh basil (chopped) 7 to 9 minutes. Remove from the heat, then and 3 tablespoons salted butter (cut into season with additional soy sauce, if needed. 3 pieces), then stir until melted. Stir in Top with thinly sliced scallions. ◆ additional pasta water 1 tablespoon at a time until slightly saucy. Taste and season with

All featured recipes make 4 servings salt and pepper. ◆ Photos: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

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20_0506_MSM_TuesNight.indd 4 3/11/20 1:29 PM May–June 2020

Dinner. Fast. Bold. Casual.

Seared Steak and Onion Swordfish with Potatoes, with Citrus, Soy and Bay Tomatoes and Capers n a 12-inch skillet over medium-high, heat eason four 6-ounce swordfish steaks I 1 teaspoon neutral oil until barely smoking. Swith kosher salt and black pepper. Add 1 medium red onion (cut into ¼-inch- In a 12-inch skillet over medium-high, heat thick rings) and cook, flipping once, until 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil until well browned. Transfer to a plate and wipe shimmering. Add the fish and cook, undis- out the skillet. Season two 1-pound beef turbed, until well browned, 5 to 7 minutes. strip steaks with kosher salt and black Using a thin metal spatula, transfer the steaks pepper. In the same skillet over medium-­ to a plate, turning them browned side up. In high, heat 1 tablespoon oil until shimmering. the same skillet over medium-low, heat Add the steaks, reduce to medium and cook, another 2 tablespoons oil until shimmering. flipping once, until well browned and the Add 1 medium red onion (halved and thinly centers reach 120°F (for medium-rare), sliced), 4 medium garlic cloves (thinly 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a platter and let sliced), ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes and rest for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, pour off ½ teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, and discard the fat in the skillet, then add until the onion is lightly browned, 2 to 1 tablespoon oil, 4 medium garlic cloves Spicy Black Bean and 3 minutes. Stir in 8 ounces Yukon Gold potatoes (unpeeled, cut into ½-inch pieces), Coconut Soup then add a 14½-ounce can diced tomatoes n a large pot over medium-high, heat with juices and 2 tablespoons water. Bring I 2 tablespoons coconut oil until shimmer- to a boil over medium-high, then cover, reduce ing. Add ½ medium red onion (finely to medium and simmer until the potatoes chopped) and cook, stirring occasionally, are tender, 10 to 14 minutes. Stir in 3 table- until translucent, 5 to 7 minutes. Add spoons drained capers and 2 teaspoons 3 medium garlic cloves (chopped) and lemon juice, then nestle the steaks in the sauce cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. and pour in any accumulated juices. Cover Add 2½ cups water, a 14-ounce can and cook on low until the fish is opaque coconut milk, 1 habanero chili (stemmed, throughout, 4 to 6 minutes. Serve sprinkled but left whole), ¼ teaspoon ground allspice, with chopped fresh basil and drizzled with 1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme and additional oil. ◆ 1½ teaspoons kosher salt, then bring to a simmer. Add four 15½-ounce cans black beans (rinsed and drained) and cook, stirring occasionally and adjusting the heat as needed to maintain a simmer, for 20 minutes. Cool for 10 minutes off heat. Remove and discard the habanero. Transfer (thinly sliced), 6 bay leaves and the onion. 3 cups of the mixture to a blender, add Cook over medium, stirring, until the garlic 3 tablespoons coconut oil and puree until begins to brown. Stir in 3 tablespoons each smooth. Return the puree to the pot and soy sauce, orange juice and water, 2 table-­ ­ bring to a simmer over medium. Off heat, spoons lemon juice and any meat juices, then stir in 1½ tablespoons lime juice, then bring to a simmer. Off heat, add2 tablespoons taste and season with salt. Ladle into bowls salted butter and stir until melted. Discard the and garnish with chopped plum tomatoes bay, then season with salt and pepper. Thinly and more chopped red onion; serve with

Photos: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling:slice Christine Tobin the steaks, then spoon the sauce over. ◆ lime wedges. ◆

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20_0506_MSM_TuesNight.indd 5 3/11/20 1:38 PM | ■ Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine ◆

OOK[ C ish T hrow I t Together ] CHICKEN AND ORZO SKILLET-CHARRED SOUP WITH GARLIC BRUSSELS SPROUTS AND PAPRIKA WITH APPLE, PECANS Start to finish: 40 minutes AND PECORINO (15 minutes active) Servings: 4 Start to finish: 30 minutes Servings: 4 or this simple Turkish- inspired soup, browning a he classic combination of Fgenerous amount of tomato apples, nuts and salty cheese paste with chopped garlic builds Tadds both textural and flavor a complex, deeply savory base. complexity to charred sprouts, If you like, serve with crusty while a touch of sherry vinegar bread or a simple salad dressed lends acidity that brings all the with lemon vinaigrette. elements together. milk street’s —Julia Rackow —Courtney Hill COOKish recipes use fresh combinations of flavors 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive 1 pound small to medium and textures to create casual, oil, plus more to serve Brussels sprouts, trimmed boldly flavored food fast. ⅓ cup tomato paste and halved 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 tablespoon neutral oil 1 tablespoon sweet paprika 2 teaspoons honey, plus more salt, pepper and honey. Serve and cut against the grain 2 teaspoons dried mint to serve topped with the cheese. ◆ into matchsticks 1½ pounds boneless, skinless Kosher salt and ground black ¼ cup neutral oil chicken thighs, halved pepper SPICY DRY-FRIED BEEF 2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled, Kosher salt and ground black 1 medium Granny Smith apple, quartered lengthwise and pepper quartered, cored and thinly AND CELERY thinly sliced 1 cup orzo pasta sliced 1 tablespoon Sichuan peppercorns, Start to finish: 40 minutes ⅓ cup pecans, toasted and finely ground Servings: 4 In a large saucepan, combine roughly chopped 2 tablespoons chili-bean sauce the oil, tomato paste and garlic. 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar n Sichuan cooking, dry-frying, (toban djan) OR chili-garlic sauce Cook, stirring, until several 1 ounce pecorino Romano or gan-bian, is a technique in 2 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce shades darker. Add the paprika cheese, shaved with a Iwhich a protein or vegetable and mint, then cook, stirring, just vegetable peeler first is browned, then is stir-fried In a colander, toss the celery until fragrant. Add the chicken, with aromatics and seasonings with 1 teaspoon salt; set aside. In 7 cups water and 2½ teaspoons In a medium bowl, toss the that cling to the browned surfaces. a 12-inch skillet, heat the oil until salt. Simmer, uncovered, until a sprouts with the oil, honey, Here, we use toban djan (a salty, shimmering. Add the meat and skewer inserted into the chicken 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon savory fermented chili-bean cook, stirring, until deeply meets no resistance. Transfer the pepper. Heat a large cast-iron sauce) and tongue-tingling browned. Squeeze the celery to chicken to a bowl. Add the orzo skillet over medium-high until Sichuan peppercorns. Serve with remove excess moisture and add to the pot and cook until al dente. droplets of water evaporate in steamed rice. —Calvin Cox to the pan along with the ginger. Shred the chicken. When the orzo 1 to 2 seconds. Place the sprouts Cook, stirring, until the celery is is done, add the chicken and cut side down in the pan, then 4 or 5 medium celery stalks, just tender. Stir in the Sichuan season with salt and pepper. Serve reduce to medium; reserve the thinly sliced on the diagonal pepper, chili-bean sauce and soy drizzled with additional oil. bowl. Cook until deeply browned, (about 3 cups) sauce, then cook, stirring, until Optional garnishes: A dollop of then flip and cook until tender. Kosher salt fragrant, about 1 minute. Remove yogurt OR a squeeze of lemon OR Return the sprouts to the bowl. 1 pound strip steak, trimmed of from the heat and season with torn fresh mint OR a sprinkle of Add the apple, pecans and fat and silver skin, thinly salt. Optional garnish: Chopped Aleppo pepper ◆ vinegar, then toss. Season with sliced crosswise, slices stacked celery leaves ◆ Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

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20_0506_MSM_Cookish.indd 6 3/9/20 1:24 PM | ■ May–June 2020 ◆

In London, Assaf Granit uses a riot of flavors and textures to create a bold, balanced fennel salad A Brashly Delicious Salad

Story by J.M. Hirsch and pilots a slew of restaurants across London and Israel—understands the f the many meals that might art of balancing taste and texture. O stand out during a dead-of-winter It’s evident in every dish. Crunchy visit to London, a raw fennel salad pomegranate seeds on tender egg- perhaps is the weakest contender. Yet plant. The sweet pretzel against the as I ate one creamy-spicy-crunchy- savory sesame tahini. The rich chest- tender-s­ avory-sweet bite after another, nuts against bittersweet Campari. I knew two things to be absolute: This He wasn’t at the restaurant that was the best thing I’d eaten in a long night, but his manager was able to walk while. And I would be back before the me through the makings of the salad, end of my five-day trip to eat it again. a wonderful combination of high and Welcome to Coal Office, a sleek yet low. Every bite contained contrasts rustic King’s Cross outpost of Middle that kept me coming back for more. Eastern cooking where the people are At Milk Street, this was a simple beautiful, the music pulses and the dish to replicate. We liked the fennel food is bold, brash and bright. Cock- shaved about ⅛ inch thick, then tossed tails spiked with pomegranate molasses with lemon juice and salt before a or toasted chestnuts. Eggplant roasted gentle massage. A 30-minute rest and doused with fresh dukkah and resulted in tender-crisp slices that yogurt. Soft pretzels with a delicious played perfectly against the creamy- mess of harissa, za’atar and tahini. spicy dressing, crunchy almonds and And, of course, that fennel salad. sweet oranges. A tangle of thinly shaved fresh fennel The result was nearly as addictive A spicy-creamy-briny dressing balances juicy oranges and crunchy fennel. dressed with a simple blend of spicy as the version I’d eaten—twice!—in harissa, cooling yogurt and bright London. The only element missing? with salt and lemon, the thicker ■ In a large bowl, toss the fennel, lemon juice. Mixed in: chunks of The dessert of tahini ice cream. Don’t slices will become pleasingly crisp-­ lemon juice and 1½ teaspoons salt, chopped almonds, thin slices of green even get me started about that. tender. Fennel sliced too thin will gently rubbing the salt into the fen- chilies, juicy orange segments, briny wilt and become soggy. nel. Set aside for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, grate the zest green olives, fresh herbs. The result Fennel-Orange Salad with —Courtney Hill ■ from was a cacophony of flavors and tex- Harissa and Yogurt the orange (about 1 tablespoon); set tures that somehow all harmonized. 2 medium fennel bulbs, trimmed, aside. Slice ½ inch off the top and They worked because chef Assaf Start to finish: 45 minutes (25 minutes halved lengthwise, cored and bottom of the orange. Stand the orange Granit—who was raised in Jerusalem active) | Servings: 4 thinly sliced crosswise on a cut end and cut from top to his recipe, our adaptation of a 2 tablespoons lemon juice bottom following the contours of the T salad from Coal Office restaurant Kosher salt fruit to remove the peel and white in London, is a crisp, creamy update 1 navel orange pith. Halve the orange from top to of the classic North African combi- ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil bottom, then slice each half into nation of fennel, orange and olives. 2 tablespoons harissa paste, plus ¼-inch-thick half-rounds. Harissa adds spice; Greek yogurt is a more as needed ■ After the fennel has rested for cooling counterpoint. Use your olive ½ teaspoon white sugar 30 minutes, add the orange zest, oil, of choice—we tried several varieties 1 sweet mini pepper (see note), harissa and sugar; toss to combine. and liked them all. Sweet mini pep- stemmed and sliced into thin Add the orange slices, pepper rings, pers are sold in bags in grocery stores rings olives and almonds, then toss again. everywhere; if you prefer a spicier ½ cup pitted olives, roughly chopped Taste and season with salt and harissa. salad, use a jalapeño chili instead. ⅓ cup roasted almonds, roughly ■ Dollop the yogurt onto the center Don’t slice the fennel paper-thin. chopped of a platter, spreading it in an even Aim for slices that are ⅛ to ¼ inch ⅓ cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt layer. Using a slotted spoon, mound At Coal Office in London, Middle thick. This salad is all about contrast- ¼ cup lightly packed fresh mint, the salad on top of the yogurt. Sprin-

Photos: Christopher Warde-Jones (bottom);Eastern Connie Miller of CB Creatives (top); Styling: Christine Tobin food sports bold contrasts. ing textures. By rubbing the fennel torn if large kle with mint, then serve. ◆

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20_0506_MSM_FennelHarissaSalad.indd 7 3/10/20 1:40 PM | ■ Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine ◆ mixed with savory). At Milk Street, we call for allspice, coriander, cinna- Change the Way You Cook In Galilee, the secret to traybake chicken is mon, cardamom and black pepper, a simple spice blend. but creating your own house blend Roast on Baking Sheets, and using it on almost everything is a quick way to up your culinary game. Not Roasting Pans Transforming Baked Chicken The recipe is simple enough. Toss oasting on a low-rimmed baking chicken and wedges of unpeeled pota- Rsheet rather than in a deep toes in oil with the spices and 2 tea- pan allows for better air circulation with Reem Kassis spoons of pomegranate molasses. around the food, accelerating Heat the oven to 450°F, place garlic cooking and boosting browning. ◆ in the center of the rimmed baking sheet, arrange the chicken around ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil the garlic, then the potatoes around 2 teaspoons pomegranate molasses the chicken. Roast for about 40 min- (see note), plus more to serve utes. Remove the chicken and pota- 1 tablespoon ground allspice toes, mash the garlic on the sheet, 1 teaspoon ground coriander add some water, then scrape up the ¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon browned bits to make a sauce. Done ⅛ teaspoon ground cardamom and delicious. Kosher salt and ground black pepper 3 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken Garlicky Spiced Chicken parts, trimmed and patted dry and Potato Traybake with 1½ pounds medium to large red Pomegranate Molasses potatoes, unpeeled, cut into 1½-inch-thick wedges Start to finish: 1 hour 10 minutes 8 medium garlic cloves, peeled (20 minutes active) | Servings: 4 Fresh flat-leaf parsley, to serve his meal-in-one is our adap- Ttation of a recipe in “The Pales- ■ In a large bowl, stir together the tinian Table” by Reem Kassis, which oil, molasses, allspice, coriander, cin- she prepared for us on a recent trip namon, cardamom, 4 teaspoons salt to Galilee. In lieu of seasoning the and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Add the chicken and potatoes with the Kassis chicken and potatoes, then toss to coat. family’s nine-spice blend, we make Set aside at room temperature while a simpler mixture from a few select the oven heats. ground spices. And to make a simple ■ Heat the oven to 450°F with a rack but flavorful sauce, we roast a hand- in the middle position. Place the gar- ful of garlic cloves with the chicken lic cloves in the center of a rimmed and potatoes, then mash the softened baking sheet. Arrange the chicken cloves with pan drippings and deglaze parts, skin up, around the garlic. This one-pan meal gets big flavor from roasted garlic and a bold spice blend. with water. Dark, syrupy pomegran- Arrange the potatoes evenly around ate molasses has a fruity, floral, tart- the chicken. Story by Christopher Kimball So when my host, Reem Kassis (author sweet taste that complements the ■ Roast until the thickest part of the of “The Palestinian Table”), started fragrant spices as well as the caramel- breast (if using) reaches about 160°F f you are planning a culinary to assemble a simple spiced chicken ization that results from roasting. and the thickest part of the largest I tour of northern Israel, which traybake—one that requires almost Look for it in the international aisle thigh/leg (if using) reaches about 175°F, includes the Sea of Galilee and the no preparation—I wasn’t surprised. of the supermarket or in Middle East- 30 to 40 minutes. Golan Heights, you might expect to After all, this was her kitchen and ern grocery stores. If not available, ■ Using tongs, transfer the chicken find dishes such as freekeh, musakhan, her food. substitute 1 teaspoon each lemon juice and potatoes to a platter, leaving the maqlubeh, maftool and mana’eesh Kassis and her family have their and honey in the seasoning mixture garlic on the baking sheet. With a fork, za’atar (a popular breakfast flatbread own recipe for a spice blend that they and serve with lemon wedges. mash the garlic until relatively smooth. cooked in a taboon oven). And make from scratch every few weeks, Don’t use boneless, skinless Pour ¼ cup water onto the baking during my stay in Galilee, the valley but you can try almost any mix of chicken parts, as they will overcook. sheet, then use a spoon to scrape up that encompasses a good part of spices to make your own blend: Start Also, make sure to put the garlic cloves the browned bits. Taste the sauce and northern Israel, I had all of these with whole spices, toast them quickly at the center of the baking sheet, where season with salt and pepper, then pour dishes and many more. But one even- in a skillet, then cool before grinding they’re protected from the oven’s high over the chicken and potatoes. Drizzle tually learns, as a local told me, that (keep in mind that the Palestinian heat, so they don’t end up scorched. with additional pomegranate molas-

“food belongs to people, not places.” table has a penchant for warmer spices —Courtney Hill ses and sprinkle with parsley. ◆ Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

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20_0506_MSM_ChickenTraybake.indd 8 3/10/20 1:42 PM | ■ May–June 2020 ◆ ■ In a medium heatproof bowl, In Vietnam, we fell for combine the scallions, ¼ teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon pepper. Using a savory scallion sauce your fingers, gently rub the salt and pepper into the scallions until the scallions begin to wilt. You Will Put ■ In a small saucepan over medium-­ high, heat the oil until shimmering, This Bold, then pour the hot oil over the scal- lions; the scallions will sizzle. Stir, Fresh Sauce on then stir in the fish sauce, ginger and Everything sugar. Cool to room temperature. Seared and Steamed Story by J.M. Hirsch Asparagus entions of mother sauces n a 12-inch skillet over medium-­ M tend to trigger notions of bécha- Ihigh, heat 1 tablespoon neutral oil mel, espagnole and hollandaise, heavy until barely smoking. Add 1½ pounds with flavor, flour and centuries of asparagus (trimmed and halved on exacting French technique. It’s a dif- the diagonal) and cook, stirring only ferent world from the one Peter a few times, until charred. Add 3 table- Franklin conjures when he uses the spoons water, then immediately cover. term while giving me a tasting tour Reduce to low and cook, stirring of Vietnamese cooking. In Vietnam, scallion oil adds vibrant, fresh flavor to pork, shrimp and steak. just once or twice, until the aspara- Because in the kitchen of Ănăn gus is crisp-tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Saigon—his multistory warren of a simple dressing for roasted eggplant. flavor, it also acts as a flavor booster. Serve with scallion oil spooned over. sleekly modern restaurants and bars Sweetened with a touch of sugar and At its most basic, mỡ hành is made off Ho Chi Minh City’s Tôn Thất spiked with grated fresh ginger for a by pouring hot oil over sliced scal- Pan-Seared Shrimp Đạm street market—heft gives way spring roll dipping sauce. Each time, lions to release their flavor and ten- to herbs, stocks stand down for savory it tastes fresh, boisterous and savory. derize them. Our version includes n a 12-inch skillet over medium-­ soy sauce, roux is replaced by bright When Franklin prepares it for me, savory fish sauce (or soy sauce), pun- I high, heat 1 tablespoon neutral oil acids, and boldly delicious fish sauce the oil blisters and sizzles as it hits a gent ginger and a little sugar to build until barely smoking. Add 1½ pounds appears almost everywhere. This is mound of scallions and black pepper, complexity. It’s delicious spooned extra-large (21/25 per pound) shrimp cooking that is lighter, brighter and his open kitchen immediately filling onto simply cooked asparagus, shrimp (peeled and deveined) in an even more vibrant. with sweet onion flavor. He adds gin- or skirt steak (recipes below). Or try layer and cook without stirring until Yet it does owe something to the ger and fish sauce, and suddenly the it on grilled pork chops, corn on the well browned, about 3 minutes. Stir French, who controlled Vietnam for aroma of green is matched by savory, cob or steamed dumplings. Leftover the shrimp, then remove the pan from decades and left behind their tradi- sharp flavors. I take a taste and imme- scallion oil can be refrigerated in the heat and stir constantly, allowing tion of flavoring with sauces. “Most diately am seduced. an airtight container for up to three the skillet’s residual heat to finish the dishes, there’s not much flavor beyond At Milk Street, it was a simple days; return it to room temperature cooking, until the shrimp are opaque the freshness of the herbs and vegeta- matter to replicate Franklin’s version. before serving. throughout, another 20 to 30 sec- bles,” Franklin explains of Vietnam- And at his urging, we did as the Viet- Don’t just slice the scallions. For onds. Serve over steamed white rice ese cuisine. “Most of the flavor comes namese do—happily pairing it with proper texture and flavor, the scal- and topped with scallion oil. from the sauces.” most anything. lions should be chopped. Slice them Some are as simple as water, sugar first, then run the knife blade over Pan-Seared Skirt Steak and fish sauce cooked to a deep cara- Vietnamese Scallion Sauce them a few times to further break mel. Others are more bracing, blend- them down. —Courtney Hill n a 12-inch skillet over medium-­ ing shallots, lime juice, sugar, garlic Start to finish: 20 minutes I high, heat 1 tablespoon neutral and—of course—fish sauce. One of my Makes about ½ cup ½ cup chopped scallions oil until barely smoking. Add 1 pound favorites is mỡ hành, or scallion oil. ietnamese scallion oil, (5 or 6 scallions; see note) beef skirt steak (trimmed and cut At its most basic, it is simply hot oil Vcalled mỡ hành, is used as a gar- Kosher salt and ground black into 3- to 4-inch sections) and cook poured over chopped fresh scallions, nish or condiment on a number of pepper until well browned on both sides, 5 to the heat gently tenderizing the greens, different foods, from grilled clams ¼ cup peanut or other neutral oil 7 minutes total, flipping once about the fat drawing out their flavor. on the half shell to steamed rice. It 1½ tablespoons fish sauce or soy sauce halfway through. Transfer to a plate I’d encountered it at multiple adds fresh allium notes as well as 1½ tablespoons finely grated fresh and let rest for 10 minutes. Cut the meals. Spooned over grilled pork bright green color to any dish it’s ginger steak against the grain into thin

Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling:skewers. Christine Tobin Blended with soy sauce for drizzled onto. And since fat carries 1 teaspoon white sugar slices. Drizzle with scallion oil. ◆

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20_0506_MSM_VietnameseScallionSauce.indd 9 3/9/20 2:05 PM | ■ Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine ◆ Story by Albert Stumm But do remove the tails when halving This sweet, smoky shrimp and chickpea stew taught the seared shrimp so that the pieces t’s the end of harvest season are easier to eat in the finished stew. Iin Extremadura, an out-of-the-way us the power of great paprika —Bianca Borges region of western Spain, and most of the land’s famed peppers have been 2 tablespoons smoked paprika dried and ground into the smoked In Spain, We Learned We Don’t 1 tablespoon sweet paprika paprika known as pimentón de la Vera. Kosher salt and ground black pepper I’d come to learn how locals use Use Nearly Enough Paprika 1 pound extra-large (21/25 per pound) the aromatic spice and quickly found shrimp, peeled and deveined, it in nearly everything—a bold single-­ tails left on stroke solution to elevate everyday 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, food. Mixed with fried breadcrumbs plus more to serve and leftover ham. Sprinkled over 2 tablespoons salted butter scrambled eggs. Stirred into boiled 1 medium leek, white and light potatoes with olive oil. green parts halved lengthwise, But at Palacio Carvajal Girón, an thinly sliced, rinsed and dried elegant restaurant wrapped in the stone 4 medium garlic cloves, minced of a 16th-century palace, I’m reminded 15½-ounce can chickpeas, drained, that pimentón also can be far more ½ cup liquid reserved refined. Once a year, as part of an 8-ounce bottle clam juice annual festival, the restaurant hosts a Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, tasting menu: five plates, each featur- to serve ing smoked paprika in some form. It’s gelled into smoky pearls to ■ In a medium bowl, stir together both garnish crispy nuggets of fried lamb. paprikas and ¾ teaspoon pepper, then It’s dusted on surimi, a Japanese pro- measure 2 tablespoons into a small cessed fish that resembles baby eels. bowl and set aside. Add the shrimp Even dessert, an orange-spiked olive to the paprika mixture in the medium oil cake, is flecked with the spice. bowl and toss to coat; set aside. Ironically, the standout dish at first ■ In a large Dutch oven over appears to be the humblest: a simple medium-high, heat the oil until shim- crock of chickpeas. But here they’re The rich flavors of this stew are enhanced by a Spanish-inspired spice blend. mering. Add the shrimp in an even embellished with chopped langous- layer; reserve the bowl. Cook without tines, whole shrimp and flakes of agri­ the stew. We also amped up the shell- stirring until browned on the bot- dulce pimentón (a blend of sweet and fish flavor with a cup of clam juice Spanish Shrimp and tom, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spicy). Peeling the shrimp stains my (making a separate broth unnecessary) Chickpea Stew spoon, return the shrimp to the bowl. fingers red, but it’s worth the trouble. and omitted langoustines altogether. ■ In the same pot over medium, melt Their sweet flesh balances the richness We first coated the shrimp in a Start to finish: 35 minutes | Servings: 4 the butter. Add the leek and cook, of tender beans and a smoky broth. mixture of sweet and spicy smoked t palacio carvajal girón, stirring occasionally, until softened, The dish’s apparent simplicity paprikas. Searing the seasoned shrimp Ain Spain’s Extremadura region, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and the belies a complex recipe, says sous chef with the tails on created a flavorful we tasted a delicious shellfish and reserved paprika mixture, then cook, Miguel Angel Bernal, who grew up crust, which we scraped up while chickpea stew. Requiring a ham- and stirring, until fragrant, about 1 min- stomping through piles of dried pep- sautéing the leeks, another nod to langoustine-infused broth and made ute. Stir in the chickpeas, reserved pers on his family farm nearby. Dry Bernal’s broth. Adding more of the with dried chickpeas, the dish was chickpea liquid and clam juice. Bring chickpeas are soaked overnight, then paprika mixture later boosted the labor-intensive. Our much-­simplified to a simmer, then reduce to low, simmered with a ham bone. Separately, flavor while minimizing the heat’s version captures the stew’s essence in cover and cook for 10 minutes, stir- a shellfish broth is made with leeks, dulling effect on the spice. just a fraction of the time. A combi- ring once or twice. Meanwhile, remove shrimp and sweet smoked paprika. In To prevent the shrimp from over- nation of Spanish smoked paprika and the tails from the shrimp and cut another pan, shrimp and langoustines cooking, we browned them on only standard sweet paprika gives the stew each in half crosswise. are sautéed and chopped before every- one side. After removing the tails, we deep color and earthy complexity ■ Remove the pot from the heat and thing is combined to simmer. halved the shrimp and returned without overwhelming the shrimp. stir in the shrimp along with the Back at Milk Street, we knew we them to the finished chickpeas. They Don’t forget to reserve ½ cup of accumulated juices. Cover and let needed an easier way to coax out that finished cooking in gentle residual the liquid before draining the chick- stand until the shrimp are opaque complexity. So we streamlined by heat. A quick simmer melded the fla- peas. The liquid adds both body and throughout, 2 to 3 minutes. Taste and cooking everything in a Dutch oven vors and mimicked the boldly rich flavor to the broth. When peeling season with salt and pepper. Serve and using canned chickpeas and dish we had in Spain, but with only the shrimp, don’t remove the tails sprinkled with parsley and drizzled

their starchy liquid to add body to one pot. And no messy fingers. because they also flavor the broth. with additional oil. ◆ Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

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20_0506_MSM_SpanishShrimpChickpeaStew.indd 10 3/9/20 2:51 PM | ■ May–June 2020 ◆

[ MILK STREET O n the R oad ]

Stretched across thousands of tall bamboo mats, sheets of rice noodles dry under intense sun in a northern Ho Chi Minh City suburb.

t a distance, the field before pulling it from its mat and at the outskirts of Ho tearing it into 3-foot squares. Chi Minh City resem- Lacquered, Sweet The squares pile by the hundreds, A bles a sea of solar pan- later to be fed by the men one at a els, staring by the thousands from and Savory: Vietnamese time into decades-old belt-driven a muddy-grassy grid into a blis- slicers that deliver fine, glassy- tering sun. Closer, and patterns white threads of noodles into the emerge. Row upon row of irides- Caramel Sauce hands of the women sitting and cent sheets taut over bamboo the art of bagging below. frames resting against rough- Peter Franklin teaches us After the war, the grandfather hewn supports, glowing as they melding sweet and savory had the chance to move to the U.S. reach skyward. Closer still, and But not all of his children quali- you see the imprint of basketwoven fied to join him, so instead he Story by J.M. Hirsch fibers through the still-tacky film, stayed on with the family busi- irregular and organic. ness. A business today at risk as In Vietnam, this is an endan- development encroaches on the gered art. Rice noodles dried by field where for generations they the sun, sliced by hand. Seven days have dried their noodles. a week for more than 60 years, Watching it all is mesmeriz- the Diêp family has risen at 3 a.m., ing. And I’m honored when they children, parents and grandpar- sweep the patio of stray strands of ents smearing a milky slurry of noodle and invite me to share ground white rice and water over their lunch. We sit cross-legged innumerable massive bamboo on the floor and with chopsticks screens, then carting them by pick from communal bowls of scooter to bake in a field that stir-fry with broccoli, carrots and smells of white glue and rice. beef; pickled cucumbers; tiny hard- By noon, wearing coats to cooked eggs with fish sauce and shield themselves from the sun, chili peppers; boiled chunks of they hoist the heavy mats into bitter melon; ample white rice. towering stacks and roll them Everything is delicious. But home. Under a covered patio, most notable is the persistent push- they rub each elastic sheet with oil Peter Franklin transforms sugar into a simple savory-sweet caramel. pull between Continued on page 12 Photos: Christopher Warde-Jones Christopher Photos:

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20_0506_MSM_VietnameseCaramelChicken.indd 11 3/9/20 3:36 PM Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine

In Th Tr n Hóc Môn, a district in the northern suburbs of Ho Chi Minh City, the Diêp family gets up at 3 a.m. every day seven days a week to prepare rice noodles by hand. They begin by simmering a slurry of white rice and water over a wood fire, then spread it across 8-by-3-foot woven bamboo mats. The mats are hauled down the street to a field, where they dry in the sun for four hours. Back at their home, the family peels the tacky sheets of noodle from the mats, tears them into squares, then feeds them through slicers to create filaments of milky-white noodles to be bagged and sold.

sweet and savory that defines each basics, which are both more and ¼ cup white sugar—favored for its ack at milk street, this dish, a careful balance of flavors less intuitive than I expected. clean flavor that enhances rather Bwas an easy recipe to adapt. We that teases in your mouth, leaving “Western cooking is what I call than competes with other ingredi- stuck by Franklin’s skillet method you never quite sure which it is. ‘salt management.’ Southeast Asian ents—and a splash of water. The and most of his ingredients. We’d Naturally sweet vegetables—often cooking is much more complex,” mixture quickly darkens to a rich, seen several cooks use coconut enhanced by a bit of sugar—in a says Franklin, who was adopted from not-quite-burnt caramel. Most cooks water instead of regular to make tug-of-war with the deep salty- Vietnam in the ’70s and grew up in don’t darken it enough, he says, the caramel, a subtle swap we liked, umami of fish sauce. The effect is the U.S., but returned after a career creating more of a simple sugar but that hardly is essential. We also simple and addictive. in business and culinary school water than the rich, barely bitter favored the addition of the ginger abroad. “You need to know how to caramel the recipe needs. and chilies, which further light- hat contrast turns out to balance the sweet and sour and To it, he adds savory-salty fish ened and brightened the sauce. Tbe a defining characteristic of salty and savory, and even bitter.” sauce—a flavoring played on loop In Vietnam, lemon grass is fresh, Vietnamese cuisine, one I’d encoun- He makes his point at the stove, in Vietnam—as well as lime juice tender and vibrant, which allowed ter repeatedly as I ate my way across where in a small skillet he heats and finely minced lemon grass. I Franklin to mince it and add it Ho Chi Minh City. In fact, it’s a taste a spoonful and the combina- directly to the sauce. In the U.S., flavor combination so revered, there’s tion explodes in my mouth. Sweet. it tends to be drier and tougher, an entire family of recipes that It’s obvious why this Sour. Bitter. Savory. Herbal. Citrus. though still flavorful. We found it bathe meat and fish in a sizzling Into this, he adds a hefty strip of best to bruise it, simmer it in the sweet-and-savory lacquer of cara- pork—thịt kho tộ— fatty pork belly, basting it thickly sauce, then discard it. This allowed mel. And I was smitten with how is iconic. The flavor before popping it under the broiler it to flavor the caramel without leav- easily those recipes pull such is sweet and rich, for just a few minutes. ing fibrous bits behind. deep, rich flavors from a handful of It’s obvious why this pork—thịt At Franklin’s suggestion, we simple ingredients. balanced by bitter kho tộ—is iconic. The flavor is sweet tested our sauce with multiple pro- For a lesson in caramel sauce caramel, brightened and rich, balanced by the bitter car- teins. Chicken thighs, pork tender- cooking, I turned to Peter Franklin, amel, brightened by lime juice and loin and salmon were our favorites. owner of Ănăn Saigon, a cutting-edge by the lime juice lemon grass. Best yet—its sauce is And all were sturdy enough to be restaurant where traditional Viet- and lemon grass. so versatile. Vietnamese cooks hap- cooked directly in the sauce in the namese cooking is respected, but pily prepare all manner of proteins skillet, making this a one-pan, also updated. In his sleek, open Vietnamese cooks in this sauce, sometimes heighten- weeknight-friendly meal that boasts kitchen hidden within the chaos of ing the flavor with fresh ginger and flavors far more complex than the the Tôn Thất Đạm street market, happily use the sauce chilies. Chicken, white fish, salmon, ingredients and effort suggest. Even

Franklin walks me through the on nearly everything. shrimp, all taste amazing. without sun-dried noodles. ◆ Warde-Jones Christopher Photos:

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20_0506_MSM_VietnameseCaramelChicken.indd 12 3/11/20 2:04 PM May–June 2020

[ MILK STREET A t H ome] he classic Vietnamese cook, stirring occasionally, until technique of simmering the sauce reduces and clings to the T meat or fish in dark, bitter- chicken, 10 to 14 minutes. sweet caramel mixed with fish ■ Remove from the heat, then dis- sauce and a few aromatics yields card the lemon grass. Stir in the rich, wonderfully complex savory- lime juice. Transfer to a serving dish sweet flavors. And the technique and sprinkle with the scallions. could hardly be simpler. Instead of a traditional clay pot, we use a V ariations 12-inch skillet to make our version ◆ ◆ of gà kho, or caramel-simmered Vietnamese chicken, and we cook the chicken Caramel Pork Tenderloin until the sauce forms a glaze, as we were taught in Vietnam. Bruising ut two 1¼-pound pork tender- the lemon grass releases its flavor loins (trimmed of silver skin) and fragrance, but since the stalk C in half lengthwise, then crosswise is still whole, it is easy to remove into ½-inch-thick pieces. Follow and discard before serving. The the recipe to make the caramel and simplest way to bruise it is with the cook the chilies, lemon grass, blunt side of the blade of a chef’s ginger and pepper. Add the pork knife or the butt end of the handle. and cook, stirring often,until just Serve the chicken with steamed cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. jasmine rice. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the Don’t be shy when cooking pork to a medium bowl, then con- the caramel. Allow it to darken tinue to cook the caramel mixture, deeply—a smoky, bitter caramel is stirring occasionally, until thick- what gives this dish depth of fla- ened to the consistency of honey, vor. It should reach a mahogany about 2 minutes. Off heat, return hue and will smoke lightly when the pork to the skillet and stir to ready. —Bianca Borges coat. Discard the lemon grass, then stir in the lime juice. Trans- ¼ cup white sugar fer to a serving dish and sprinkle 4 tablespoons coconut water or Caramel chicken is richly savory-sweet with bright pops from ginger. with the scallions. water, divided 3 tablespoons fish sauce 2 Fresno or serrano chilies, Vietnamese Caramel Chicken Vietnamese stemmed and sliced into thin Caramel Salmon rings Start to finish: 40 minutes | Servings: 4 to 6 1 stalk lemon grass, trimmed to ut 2 pounds 1-inch-thick the lower 5 or 6 inches and ■ In a 12-inch skillet, combine the coconut water; the mixture will C skinless salmon fillets into bruised (see note) sugar and 2 tablespoons of the bubble vigorously and the caramel 1½-inch cubes. Follow the recipe 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh coconut water. Cook over medium-­ will harden in spots. Bring to a to make the caramel and cook the ginger high, occasionally swirling the pan simmer over medium and cook, chilies, lemon grass, ginger and 1 teaspoon ground black pepper to help the sugar dissolve and to stirring, until the hardened bits pepper. Add the salmon and cook, 2 pounds boneless, skinless encourage even browning, until have dissolved. Add the chilies, stirring often, until the salmon is chicken thighs, trimmed and the caramel is mahogany in color lemon grass, ginger and pepper, just opaque throughout, 5 to 6 min- cut into 1½-inch pieces and smokes lightly, 4 to 6 minutes. then cook, stirring, until fragrant, utes. Discard the lemon grass, then 1 tablespoon lime juice ■ Remove the pan from the heat about 30 seconds. Increase to stir in the lime juice. Transfer to 2 scallions, thinly sliced on the and add the fish sauce along medium-high and stir in the a serving dish and sprinkle with

Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin diagonal with the remaining 2 tablespoons chicken. Bring to a simmer and the scallions. ◆

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20_0506_MSM_VietnameseCaramelChicken.indd 13 3/9/20 3:36 PM | ■ Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine ◆

[ MILK STREET O n the R oad ] In Tel Aviv, It’s Something Old, Something New Sure, you can order hummus, shakshuka or lahmajoun, bute b prepared for the unexpected.

The food is like the city: The past is integral Today, lahmajoun (though it has many spell- to its foundation, but no chef is going to read you ings, including lahmacun and lahmadjun) also chapter and verse when it comes to the classics. is popular in Turkey, Syria and Lebanon, as well They’ll adapt, improvise, improve, while still as Israel. But in essence, it’s ground spiced meat craving the food of their youth. Shira Petel— on flatbread (cumin and cinnamon are typical co-founder of Shaffa Bar, located in a giant flea spices) and it has been around for millennia. market in Jaffa—gave me a culinary tour of her (Flatbreads were baked without toppings until menu and Tel Aviv’s changing foodways with a the invention of the stone oven in the Middle broad sampling of updated classics, such as Ages, when toppings and stuffings were baked pureed fava beans. Here, Petel uses lima beans with the bread, not added later.) It also can be instead (not as dry) mixed with olive oil, served wrapped around vegetables, and some- tomato, chili and fresh oregano. Lighter and times the topping includes minced vegetables as better. Cabbage grilled for two hours and well as meat. served with a Greek skordalia sauce. Tabbouleh. Here at Milk Street, we started with our Siniya, a classic local dish of beef and lamb, go-to flatbread recipe, which calls for ¾ cup but Petel updates it with grilled vegetables yogurt, making the dough tender and easier to including onions, cauliflower and tomatoes. stretch. The dough is made in a food processor, And, of course, chopped liver and her own shaped into balls, then allowed to rise for homemade lox. But she also offered lahmajoun, 90 minutes or until doubled. The spiced meat the local take on pizza—flatbread topped with a topping—also mixed in the processor—includes Shira Petel’s Shaffa Bar is located in the Jaffa beef/lamb mixture. She made it her own with a tomato paste, smoked paprika, cumin and red flea market and offers updated classics such as sprinkling of local greens that looked like cress, pepper flakes, plus onion and roasted red pep- siniya and lahmajoun. drizzled with yogurt. pers. The raw meat mixture is spread onto the Lahmajoun (dough with meat), like many dough once shaped and baked just like pizza in a Story by Christopher Kimball dishes in the Middle East, has a complicated hot oven. Topped with arugula and drizzled origin story. The original recipe probably was with thinned yogurt, it’s something old and he first indication that Tel Aviv— made with lavash and has Armenian roots. something new. ◆ despite its famed Jaffa port district, a major biblical destination—is more Tabout the future than the past came Before when I stopped by the hummus shop Shlomo & Doron, expecting a bowl of warm whipped Baking the chickpeas with little else. Instead, I received a Flatbread tasting of six bowls, each with a signature flavor: from Mexican hummus (with beans, tortilla o make these chips and jalapeños) and shakshuka hummus to T flatbreads, we first variations with falafel and pickled cabbage. And mix the dough in a food 1. Process the dough 2. Form each half into a 3. Gently stretch each 4. Transfer one shaped spending a couple hours at a sidewalk café late at processor. We then divide until shiny and elastic. taut ball by rolling it in a dough ball on a lightly dough to a baking peel. night tells the same tale: electric scooters, yoga the dough, shape it, let it Transfer to a lightly circular motion under a floured counter into an Brush the dough with oil, clothes and a pulsing stream of foot traffic— rise and stretch it out floured counter and cupped hand. Let the oval roughly 6 inches then spread half the meat

everyone living for the moment. before baking. divide the dough in half. balls rise until doubled. wide and 12 inches long. mixture on the dough. Photos: Christopher Kimball (Shaffa Bar); Connie Miller of CB Creatives (steps for making lahmajoun); Styling: ChristineTobin

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20_0506_MSM_Lahmajoun.indd 14 3/9/20 3:16 PM May–June 2020

[ MILK STREET A t H ome ] honey and ¼ cup water. Process until the mix- ture forms a ball, about 30 seconds; the dough should be tacky to the touch and should stick slightly to the sides of the bowl. If it feels too dry, add more water, 1 tablespoon at a time, and process until incorporated. Continue to process until the dough is shiny and elastic, about 1 minute. ■ Transfer the dough to a lightly floured counter. Flour your hands and knead a few times to form a smooth ball. Divide the dough in half and form each half into a taut ball by rolling it against the counter in a circular motion under a cupped hand. Space the balls about 6 inches apart on a lightly floured counter, then cover with plastic wrap. Let rise until doubled in volume, 1 to 1½ hours. ■ Meanwhile, to make the topping, in the food processor, pulse the onion until finely chopped, about 5 pulses. Add the roasted peppers, tomato paste, paprika, cumin, pepper flakes and 1 teaspoon each salt and black pepper. Process until smooth, about 10 seconds, scrap- Peppery arugula and a yogurt sauce add fresh, bright flavors to this meat-topped flatbread. ing the bowl as needed. Add the beef and pulse just until incorporated, 3 or 4 pulses. Transfer For the dough: to a medium bowl. In a small bowl, stir together Lahmajoun 241 grams (1¾ cups) bread flour, plus more the yogurt and 1 tablespoon water, adding for dusting more water as needed to thin to drizzling con- Start to finish: 2¼ hours (40 minutes active) 1½ teaspoons instant yeast sistency. Cover both bowls and refrigerate Makes two 12-inch flatbreads 1¾ teaspoons kosher salt until needed. ahmajoun is a meat-topped flatbread ¾ cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt ■ About 1 hour before shaping the dough, L common in the Levant, as well as in Turkey 1 tablespoon honey heat the oven to 500°F with a baking steel or and Armenia. Arugula and a drizzle of yogurt are stone on the upper-middle rack. Working with unusual finishes for lahmajoun, but they add For shaping and topping: one at a time, gently stretch each dough ball on fresh, peppery flavor and a creamy coolness that 1 small yellow onion, roughly chopped a lightly floured counter into an oval approxi- complement the spiced meat topping. For conve- ¼ cup chopped drained roasted red peppers mately 6 inches wide and 12 inches long. nience, the dough can be made a day in advance. 2 tablespoons tomato paste ■ Dust a baking peel, inverted baking sheet or After dividing the dough in half and forming 2 teaspoons smoked paprika rimless cookie sheet with semolina. Transfer each piece into a round, place each portion in a 1½ teaspoons ground cumin one shaped dough to the peel and, if needed, quart-size zip-close bag that’s been misted with ¾ teaspoon red pepper flakes reshape into an oval. Brush the entire surface cooking spray, seal well and refrigerate overnight. Kosher salt and ground black pepper with 1 tablespoon of oil. Using a spatula, Allow the dough to come to room temperature 8 ounces 80 percent lean ground beef or spread half the meat mixture on the dough, before shaping. ground lamb leaving a ½-inch border around the edge. Slide Don’t undermix the dough in the food ¼ cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt the dough onto the baking steel and bake until processor; it needs a full minute of processing to Semolina flour, for dusting the baking peel well browned, 9 to 12 minutes. build structure and strength. The dough may be 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided ■ Using the peel, transfer the flatbread to a warm to the touch when done; this is normal. 2 cups (1 ounce) lightly packed baby arugula wire rack. Repeat with the remaining dough, But when processing the meat mixture, don’t oil and meat mixture. After the second flat- overdo it or the protein may get tough. Pulse ■ To make the dough, in a food processor, bread has cooled on the rack for a couple min- only three or four times, just until combined. combine the flour, yeast and salt; process until utes, top both with the arugula. Drizzle with Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin —Erika Bruce and Courtney Hill well mixed, about 5 seconds. Add the yogurt, yogurt, then serve. ◆

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20_0506_MSM_Lahmajoun.indd 15 3/9/20 3:16 PM | ■ Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine ◆

AST[ F & SLOW I nstant P ot C ooking at Your O wn S peed ] Cannellini Beans with Basil, —Active time: 20 minutes | Servings: 4 to 6— 1 pound (2½ cups) dried 1 medium yellow onion, chopped Tomatoes and Parmesan cannellini beans (see note), 1 tablespoon fennel seeds rinsed and drained ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes Kosher salt and black pepper 14½-ounce can diced tomatoes ½ teaspoon baking soda 1 piece Parmesan cheese rind 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive (optional), plus finely grated oil, plus more to serve Parmesan to serve 4 medium garlic cloves, thinly ½ cup lightly packed fresh sliced basil, torn

START In a 6-quart Instant Pot, stir together the beans, 2 teaspoons salt, the baking soda and 6 cups water, then distribute in an even layer. Lock the lid in place and move the pressure valve to Sealing. Select Pressure Cook or Manual; make sure the pressure level is set to High. Set the cooking time for 5 minutes. When pressure cooking is complete, quick-release the steam by moving the pressure valve to Venting. Press Cancel, then carefully open the pot. Using potholders, carefully remove the insert from the housing and drain the beans in a colander; return the insert to the housing. Rinse the beans under cool water, set aside. Select More/High Sauté. Add the oil and heat until shimmering. Add the garlic, onion, fennel seeds, pepper flakes and 1 teaspoon salt, then cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion begins to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes with their juices and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has almost evaporated, 6 to 7 minutes. Add the beans and Parmesan rind (if using), then stir in 3 cups water; distribute in an even layer.

hese flavorful, creamy beans are comforting, rich and FAST SLOW vegetarian. We like to include a chunk of Parmesan rind with the Fast start to finish: 2 hours Slow start to finish: 7 to 7½ hours beans as they cook; it infuses the dish with complex flavor. If you Press Cancel, lock the lid in With the pot still on More/High Tdon’t have a piece of rind, don’t worry—the shaved cheese at the place and move the pressure Sauté, bring the mixture to a end adds plenty of savoriness. We prefer cannellini beans, but smaller valve to Sealing. Select Pressure simmer. Press Cancel, lock white beans such as navy and great northern work, too. Smaller beans Cook or Manual; make sure the the lid in place and move the require the same soaking under pressure, but set the cooking time for pressure level is set to High. Set pressure valve to Venting. only 12 minutes if pressure cooking or 6 to 6½ hours if slow cooking. the cooking time for 16 minutes. Select Slow Cook and set the Serve the beans as a side to simply cooked chicken, pork or lamb, or When pressure cooking is temperature to More/High. Set make them into a meal by offering a salad and crusty bread alongside. complete, allow the pressure to the cooking time for 6½ to Don’t prep the basil in advance or it will wilt and discolor. Since reduce naturally for 20 minutes, 7 hours; the beans are done when it’s added at the very end, prep it after the beans are done cooking, then release the remaining they are fully tender but still while they rest for 10 minutes. steam by moving the pressure hold their shape. Press Cancel, valve to Venting. Press Cancel, then carefully open the pot. then carefully open the pot. for Fast & Slow, milk street uses the Instant Pot’s marriage of sauté pan, pressure cooker and slow cooker to control the pace of cooking, while keeping FINISH Let stand for about 15 minutes, then remove and discard flavors fresh and bright. We also tested our recipes the Parmesan rind (if used). Taste and season with salt and pepper, in several other popular multicookers and found they then stir in half the basil. Serve topped with the remaining basil, worked just as well. grated Parmesan and additional oil. ◆ Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

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20_0506_MSM_FS_CannelliniBeans.indd 16 3/11/20 2:18 PM | ■ May–June 2020 ◆ Story by Albert Stumm skin may stick upon contact, but In Greece, sweet spices create a savory sauce once it is nicely browned—which is innamon, allspice and cloves the goal in this step, for flavor—the C may conjure images of dessert in for a flavorful chicken dish chicken will release easily. The pieces the U.S., but in Greece they are just will be only parcooked after brown- as likely to add warm, spicy notes to ing on the skin side; braising will savory dishes. Most often, that trio is Tomato-Spice Braised Chicken finish the cooking. paired with tomatoes, creating a rich, —Courtney Hill surprisingly balanced sauce with just hints of sweetness. 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon In the dish kota kapama, that com- ½ teaspoon ground allspice bination becomes a braise for chicken Kosher salt and ground black that is enhanced by the deeply sweet-­ pepper savory flavor of tomato paste. The 3 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken result is a bold boost of umami that thighs, trimmed and patted dry transforms chicken. 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil “In the eastern Mediterranean, not 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced just Greece, tomato paste is like soy 4 medium garlic cloves, thinly sliced sauce is for Asia,” says Aglaia Kremezi, 2 tablespoons tomato paste a Greek cookbook author. “It has ½ cup dry white wine umami. It has everything. A good 8 ounces plum tomatoes, cored and tomato paste is really wonderful.” chopped We’re inclined to agree. ½ cup lightly packed fresh mint, Mixing cinnamon and tomatoes, chopped common across Greece, is a holdover from medieval kitchens, where sweet ■ In a small bowl, stir together the spices often were used in savory cinnamon, allspice, 2 teaspoons salt dishes, Kremezi says. She learned it and 1 teaspoon pepper. Use the mix- from her mother as a way to bal- ture to season the chicken all over, ance the tomatoes’ acidity, similar to gently rubbing it in. Italians adding a teaspoon of sugar to ■ In a large Dutch oven over medium, tomato sauce. heat the oil until shimmering. Place At Milk Street, we loved the the chicken skin side down and cook warmly spiced combination, but sus- without stirring until well browned pected a few easy adjustments could Fragrant spices and tomato paste combine to create a flavorful braised chicken. and the pieces release easily from boost the flavor. We started by brown- the pot, 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer ing the tomato paste, which added and braise them in a minimal amount the chicken skin side up to a plate an intense, caramelized depth to the Greek Braised Chicken with of liquid. This way, the chicken cooks and set aside. Pour off and discard all sauce. We also minimized the liquid Tomatoes and Cinnamon mostly in the juices it releases. With- but 1 tablespoon of fat from the pot. used in the braise to concentrate all out other ingredients to dilute the ■ Set the pot over medium and add of the flavors. Start to finish: 1¼ hours flavor, the resulting sauce is won- the onion, garlic and tomato paste. For the spices, we seasoned bone-­in, (35 minutes active) | Servings: 4 derfully rich and full-bodied. Kota Cook, stirring occasionally, until the skin-on chicken thighs with cinnamon he rustic, homey Greek dish kapama traditionally is served with mixture is lightly browned, about and allspice (cloves overwhelmed the T called kota kapama stews chicken orzo or other noodles, but any starchy 2 minutes. Add the wine and cook, other flavors) and browned them in with fragrant cinnamon, sweet-tart side—from crusty bread to mashed scraping up any browned bits, until a Dutch oven. Deglazing the pan tomatoes and, more often than not, potatoes—works well. almost fully evaporated, about 1 min- with just a half-cup of dry white white or red wine. For this recipe, we Don’t fuss with the chicken once ute. Stir in the tomatoes and bring to wine added brightness and kept the use bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs it is skin side down in the pot. The a simmer. Return the chicken to the flavors concentrated. pot, placing the pieces skin side up, Limiting the braising liquid was then add the accumulated juices. Cover, Change the Way You Cook the right choice. As the chicken reduce to medium-low and cook until cooked with chopped fresh tomatoes a skewer inserted into the chicken in the covered pot, the ingredients Use Less Liquid for More Flavor meets no resistance, 35 to 45 minutes. released their natural moisture. This raising meats with minimal liquid in a ■ Transfer the chicken to a serving allowed the spices and tomatoes to Bcovered pot allows the meat to cook gently platter. Taste the sauce and season meld into a bold, distinctive sauce. in its own juices. The method concentrates juices with salt and pepper, then spoon it The result: sweet spices that took a that can later make richly flavored sauces. ◆ over the chicken. Sprinkle with the

Illustration: Paul Reamey; Photo: Connie Millersavory of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin turn. chopped mint. ◆

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20_0506_MSM_GreekBraisedChicken.indd 17 3/10/20 9:39 AM | ■ Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine ◆

[ MILK STREET O n the R oad ]

At Trattoria Bertozzi, pasta with zucchini is “Bologna la Grassa,” not health food.

At Trattoria Bertozzi, co-owner and chef Alessandro Gozzi (left and center) makes gramigna Bertozzi, pasta cooked with zucchini and saffron cream.

Story by Christopher Kimball sauce and lasagna filling), brasato di manzo (braised beef) and large he first thing that Fabio and Alessandro plates of salumi. Yet one also finds happens after we pull up in lighter, simpler dishes such as tagli- our white van outside of Make Fun Out of Pasta, atelle with onion ragout, tortellini TTrattoria Bertozzi, a short in brodo, passatelli (a quick pasta drive from central Bologna, is that made from breadcrumbs, Parme- our guide, Alessandro, is given a huge Bologna-Style san and eggs) or a large plate of sau- bear hug by another Alessandro, téed wild mushrooms. co-owner of the trattoria. This is a Story by Christopher Kimball Fresh vegetables, however, tend far cry from the heyday of the to become ingredients rather than hushed temples of gastronomy— Crush, take photos of dishes and with shavings of Parmesan. I was stars of the show. Zucchini is Alain Ducasse or Joël Robuchon— tweet.” But instead, they suggest also there to have a good time. stuffed. Spinach is served with but- where one came to pray to the that “you have some chit-chat, even Bolognese cuisine is often called ter and Parmesan. You can get a culinary gods. The two owners, if about nothing, but with the illu- “Bologna la Grassa” (“Bologna the simple mixed salad, but we are Fabio Berti and Alessandro Gozzi, sion in our hearts that we are not Fat”), since local ingredients both talking iceberg here—not an Alice live full-throttle, hugging every ounce yet dead.” A warning, of sorts, but define the cooking and are inher- Waters foraged mélange. So when it of enjoyment from life, whether done with great poetry. With that, I ently rich: Parmesan cheese, pork, comes to a pasta dish with zucchini, Gozzi is spitting a mouthful of water stepped into the kitchen to learn veal, beef, butter, cream, truffles do not expect California cuisine; in at Berti or each of them sports a how to make gramigna Bertozzi and cured meats such as prosciutto. Bologna, zucchini is married to tortellini stuck to their foreheads. guanciale, zucchine, zafferano e Local menus are full of dishes such pasta with the addition of cream Their menu starts out with the scaglie di Parmigiano: a curly, as cotoletta alla Bolognese (a thin and cheese. Yet the artistry of bal- following: “You can make a call, macaroni-­style pasta with zucchini slice of veal with prosciutto and ancing fat with flavor to produce a

send texts, take a selfie, play Candy and a saffron cream sauce topped cheese), ragù Bolognese (a pasta dish that is more than the sum of its Kimball Christopher Photos:

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20_0506_MSM_PastaZucchiniSaffron.indd 18 3/11/20 2:56 PM May–June 2020

[ MILK STREET A t H ome] Pasta with Zucchini, Pancetta and Saffron

parts—neither heavy nor about ¼ inch thick, bland, but light on the pal- then cut the strips ate and full-throttle like crosswise into 1-inch the trattoria’s owners—is sections. In a large a thing to behold. pot, boil 4 quarts of For gramigna Bertozzi, water. Add the pasta the method was simple: and 2 tablespoons salt, Sauté guanciale; add half- then cook, stirring rounds of zucchini and occasionally, until then some of the pasta just shy of al dente. water (the pasta had been Reserve 2 cups of the cooked separately); simmer cooking water, then a few minutes; add a bit of drain. In a small bowl, cream, saffron and some combine 1½ cups of almost-cooked gramigna the reserved water pasta; then finish cooking and the saffron; set in the skillet to marry the aside the remaining pasta and sauce. Top with ½ cup water. shards of Parmesan. ■ While the pasta Here at Milk Street we cooks, in a 12-inch had to switch out a couple skillet over medium, of ingredients—pancetta for cook the pancetta the harder-to-find guan- Parmesan and pancetta add richness to this creamy zucchini pasta. and garlic, stirring ciale, and cavatappi, gemelli or a occasionally, until the pancetta similar pasta for gramigna—but we Start to finish: 40 minutes cook a bit more in the sauce. Also, has rendered some of its fat and took the rest of the recipe pretty Servings: 4 don’t forget to reserve 2 cups of begins to crisp, about 3 minutes. much as gospel. We did opt to use his is our version of a the cooking water before drain- Remove and discard the garlic, half-and-half instead of cream T fantastic pasta offering from ing the pasta. then stir in the zucchini and (although I am quite sure that nei- Trattoria Bertozzi in Bologna, —Courtney Hill ½ teaspoon pepper. Cook, stirring ther Gozzi or Berti would under- Italy. In lieu of guanciale (cured occasionally, until the pancetta is stand the culinary point of half-­ pork jowl), we opted for easier-­to- 1 pound zucchini fully crisped and the zucchini is and-half). We ended up with a find but equally meaty pancetta, 12 ounces short, curly pasta, lightly browned, 4 to 6 minutes. quick skillet pasta that transformed and we lightened up the dish’s such as cavatappi or gemelli ■ Add the pasta and the saffron a pound of zucchini into a full-­ richness by swapping half-and- Kosher salt and ground black water to the skillet. Bring to a flavored dish that echoes the essen- half for the cream. The restaurant pepper simmer over medium-high and tial lessons of Bolognese cuisine: uses gramigna pasta, a tubular, ½ teaspoon saffron threads cook, stirring often, until the background notes of cured meat, a curled shape from the Emilio-­ 3 ounces pancetta, finely pasta is al dente, 4 to 5 minutes. counterpoint of flavor (saffron), Romagna region. We found that chopped Add the half-and-half and cook, something fresh (zucchini) and a more widely available cavatappi 1 medium garlic clove, smashed stirring, until the sauce is lightly bit of dairy and pasta cooking water or gemelli works just as well at and peeled thickened and clings to the pasta, to pull it all together. Oh, and a top- combining with the zucchini and ½ cup half-and-half about 1 minute. Off heat, taste ping of Parmesan as a final flourish. catching the lightly creamy sauce 1 ounce Parmesan cheese, and season with salt and pepper. Perhaps this cuisine should be in its crevices. shaved with a vegetable peeler If needed, stir in additional called“Cucina Divertimento” (fun)! Don’t boil the pasta until al reserved pasta water 1 tablespoon And, while you are at it, stick a dente. Drain it when it has a little ■ Halve the zucchini lengthwise, at a time to create a lightly creamy tortellini on your forehead, drink more bite than is desirable in the then use a spoon to scrape out the sauce. Transfer to a serving bowl wine and laugh. That is the best finished dish; the noodles will seeds. Slice each half lengthwise and top with Parmesan. ◆

Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling:recipe Christine Tobin for a healthy heart. ◆

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20_0506_MSM_PastaZucchiniSaffron.indd 19 3/10/20 3:00 PM | ■ Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine ◆ For serving: We cracked the code for Kosher salt and ground black pepper 1 tablespoon smoked sweet paprika creamier, crunchier ■ To make the potatoes, heat the roasted potatoes oven to 450°F with a rack in the mid- dle position. Pour ⅓ cup oil onto a rimmed baking sheet and tilt to Stop Settling coat; set aside. In a large microwave-­ safe bowl, combine the potatoes and for Dull ¼ cup water. Cover loosely and micro- wave on high until just shy of tender, Potatoes about 8 minutes, stirring once about halfway through. Story by Albert Stumm ■ Drain the potatoes, spread them on a kitchen towel and pat dry. Dry line snakes out the door at the bowl and return the potatoes to the A Senyor Vermut, where the crowd bowl. Sprinkle with the cornstarch clinks glasses of sweet vermouth, a Our patatas bravas are dressed with a bold paprika sauce and garlicky mayo. and 1½ teaspoons salt, then toss until Sunday afternoon tradition in Barce- evenly coated. Drizzle with the remain- lona. And here, that vermouth usu- minced shallot, sherry vinegar and interiors and ultracrisp exteriors ing 1 tablespoon oil and toss again. ally is washing down one of Spain’s vermouth. We stirred smoked paprika without the hassle of deep-frying. Distribute in an even layer on the top tapas, patatas bravas: deep-fried in only after cooking to preserve its Don’t use lower-starch pota- prepared baking sheet and roast until chunks of potato drizzled with spicy aroma, then also tossed the spice toes. For crispness, it’s important deeply browned and well crisped, paprika sauce and often slathered in with the cooked potatoes. For the ali- to use high-starch russet potatoes. about 40 minutes, flipping with a alioli (the Spanish version of aioli). oli, we got great results the easy way: Also, don’t cut the potatoes into small metal spatula once halfway through. The dish varies by region. In spiking purchased mayonnaise with pieces. Larger two-bite chunks can ■ While the potatoes roast, make Madrid, alioli is all but forbidden. garlic, lemon juice and olive oil. roast long enough to achieve deep the alioli and bravas sauce. To make In Barcelona, the sauce is common, Creamy inside, crunchy outside, browning without overcooking inside. the alioli, in a small bowl, mix the sometimes infused with saffron. our bravas turned out addictive. —Rebecca Richmond garlic and lemon juice, then let stand “Here in Catalonia, there are no rules,” Perfect with a vermouth on the side. for 5 minutes. Whisk in the mayon- says Edu González, who has reviewed For the potatoes: naise, oil and ¼ teaspoon salt, then over 1,000 variations of the dish on Patatas Bravas ⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon extra- set aside until ready to serve. his website, BravasBCN. After 11 virgin oil ■ To make the bravas sauce, in an years, Senyor Vermut is his top pick. Start to finish: 1¾ hours 3 pounds russet potatoes, peeled 8-inch skillet over medium, heat These bravas, González explains, (40 minutes active) | Servings: 6 and cut into 1½- to 2-inch chunks 2 tablespoons of the oil until shim- skew classic but are better. The pota- atatas bravas is a popular 2 tablespoons cornstarch mering. Add the shallot and cook, toes are cut small, parboiled, then PSpanish tapa. To avoid frying, Kosher salt stirring, until just beginning to soften, fried until crispy with a creamy inte- we first parcook the potatoes in about 2 minutes. Whisk in the flour, rior. The homemade alioli is garlicky the microwave, then finish them in For the alioli: cayenne and ½ teaspoon salt, then but not overpowering. The slightly the oven. This method delivers creamy 2 medium garlic cloves, finely grated cook, whisking constantly, until the spicy bravas sauce features fleeting 2 tablespoons lemon juice or sherry flour is very lightly browned, 1 to sweetness—a splash of vermouth to vinegar 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in the ver- balance the hot paprika. The formula ½ cup mayonnaise mouth and ¼ cup water, followed by sells 400 kilos of potatoes a week. 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil the vinegar. Whisking constantly, At Milk Street, we loved the con- Kosher salt bring to a full simmer, then remove trasts between crispy-tender potatoes, from the heat. Whisk in the paprika hot paprika and cooling alioli, but we For the bravas sauce: and remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Taste hoped to skip the frying. Instead, we 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, and season with salt and pepper, started them in the microwave, which divided then transfer to a serving bowl; cover speeds cooking and gelatinizes the 1 medium shallot, minced and set aside at room temperature starches in the potatoes with higher 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour until ready to serve. heat, producing creamier interiors. ½ to 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper ■ When the potatoes are done, use a We then toss the parcooked potatoes Kosher salt and ground black slotted spoon to transfer them to a with cornstarch, ensuring they bake pepper serving dish. Sprinkle with the up crisp in the oven. ¼ cup sweet vermouth paprika, a big pinch of salt and black We preferred a slightly thicker Edu González’s favorite patatas 2 teaspoons sherry vinegar pepper to taste, then toss. Serve

paprika sauce, spiced with cayenne, bravas are from Senyor Vermut. 1 tablespoon smoked sweet paprika with the alioli and bravas sauce. ◆ Photos: Albert Stumm (bottom); Connie Miller of CB Creatives (top); Styling: Christine Tobin

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20_0506_MSM_PatatasBravas.indd 20 3/11/20 3:34 PM | ■ May–June 2020 ◆ the spices and tames the pungency of the aromatics, yielding a sauce that Sweet and tastes full and round. Tangy Chicken —Courtney Hill ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons white Vindaloo vinegar, divided The subtle power of 12 medium garlic cloves, smashed and peeled sweet chili 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and transforms roughly chopped 2 tablespoons sweet paprika this Indian classic 2 tablespoons packed brown sugar 4 whole cloves or ⅛ teaspoon Story by J.M. Hirsch ground cloves 2½ teaspoons ground turmeric patchwork of dusty browns 2 teaspoons cumin seeds A and grays assembled from low- ½ to 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper slung corrugated metal slums pock- ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon marked by fatigued half-built high­- Kosher salt and ground black pepper rises, Mumbai can appear washed 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken out, drained of color. But if you close thighs, trimmed and halved your eyes and trust your nose, there 2 tablespoons grapeseed or are bold technicolor pops to be found, other neutral oil an aromatic chaos as delicious as it With mild heat and tangy-sweet flavor, chicken vindaloo is weeknight easy. Fresno or jalapeño chilies, stemmed is overwhelming. and sliced into thin rings, to serve Syrupy heaps of mangos warm- taught me chicken vindaloo. This pepper and sweet paprika. Less evoc- Fresh cilantro leaves, to serve ing under intense sun. Bracing fresh- classic dish with Portuguese origins ative than piston-pounded chili pow- ness from mounds of cilantro and deliciously blends tons of mild chil- der, perhaps. But almost as delicious. ■ In a blender, combine ¼ cup vinegar, mint. Wafts of sharp citrus from piles ies with brightly acidic vinegar to garlic, ginger, paprika, sugar, cloves, of lemons and limes. Kettles of milky create a sauce in which meat—tradi- Chicken Vindaloo turmeric, cumin, cayenne, cinnamon, teas simmering with floral cardamom. tionally pork, but increasingly any 1¼ teaspoons each salt and pepper, And my favorite: the gently tingling meat—first marinates, then cooks. Start to finish: 1 hour 20 minutes and 3 tablespoons water. Puree until sweet heat of Kashmiri chilies, north- The lesson is simple. In a blender, Servings: 4 smooth, scraping the blender as needed. ern India’s go-to brick-red seasoning she purees a host of spices—cumin, indaloo, an indian dish of Pour into a medium bowl, add the used liberally across the cuisine. turmeric, peppercorns, cinnamon and V Portuguese influence, typically chicken and toss to coat. Let stand at In one small village, that aroma cloves with garlic, a bit of sugar and is associated with the state of Goa on room temperature for 15 minutes. is paired with a rhythmic pounding more than a dozen dried chilies that India’s southwestern coast, but the ■ In a large Dutch oven over you feel in your chest. In a shed no had soaked in vinegar. The result is a curry is popular the world over. Vin- medium, heat the oil until shimmer- larger than a closet, a man stoops thick paste that is bright red and sweetly daloo, which often is made with lamb ing. Add the chicken and marinade before an ancient machine driving aromatic. After the chicken soaks in or chicken, is notable for tangy flavor in an even layer. Cook without stir- steel pistons over and again into the this, the entire batch—meat and mar- from vinegar, a generous dose of gar- ring until the marinade has browned ground, grinding those dried chilies inade—goes into the skillet to cook. lic and the gentle spice of dried chil- and the chicken releases easily from into powder, every thud threatening It’s that simple. It’s on the table in ies. The Kashmiri chilies used in India the pot, 5 to 9 minutes. Stir, then add to take off the man’s fingers. It’s mes- minutes. It’s addictive. The flavors are vibrantly colored with moderate ⅓ cup water and bring to a simmer. merizing and terrifying. are deep, tasting of mildly sweet chili heat; we found a mixture of sweet Cover, reduce to medium-low and Those chilies appeared on repeat, heat and warm paprika, balanced by paprika and cayenne to be a good cook, stirring occasionally, until a perfuming, dying and flavoring so sugar and tangy vinegar. The chicken substitute. If you order Kashmiri chili skewer inserted into the chicken meets much of what I ate during a weeklong is savory and tender, with cilantro powder online, substitute 4 teaspoons no resistance, 35 to 45 minutes. exploration of the city’s food. It was a keeping everything fresh and bal- for the paprika and cayenne. Serve ■ Stir in the remaining 2 table- valuable reminder that chilies don’t anced. A one-­skillet meal that packs with basmati rice. spoons vinegar, increase to medium need to add heat. The right chilies— an impossible amount of flavor. Don’t worry if the chicken sticks and cook, stirring often, until the or blends of chilies—can instead At Milk Street, Misquitta’s recipe to the pot immediately after it is sauce is thick enough that a spoon impart sweet, floral flavor backed by was easy to replicate but for one added. Allow it to cook undisturbed, drawn through leaves a trail, about a gentle warmth, a combination that thing: Kashmiri chilies aren’t com- and it eventually will release with 8 minutes. Taste and season with salt marries so well with so many foods. mon in the U.S. The powder is avail- ease. And don’t be afraid to allow the and pepper. Transfer to a serving My real lesson in this came from able online, but for ease we developed chicken and puree to brown as they dish and sprinkle with sliced chilies

Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling:Rumya Christine Tobin Misquitta, a home cook who our recipe using a blend of cayenne cook. This brings out the flavors in and cilantro. ◆

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[ MILK STREET O n the R oad ] In Oaxaca, carnitas are cooked like confit and finished with chunks of chicharrones and the bright flavors of pickled onions, avocado salsa and fresh cilantro.

Story by Christopher Kimball and onion. The pork is served as a taco with chicharrones (pork rind was sitting across a picnic The Fires of Oaxaca cracklings), along with avocado table from Jesús Ochoa, sous salsa, pickled onions and cilantro. chef at Criollo restaurant in What was surprising, besides how IOaxaca, taking notes as fast I bright and pungent it tasted, was could, trying to parse out the secrets that the pork was not crispy—it of carnitas. Ochoa is young, open- was soft like any good confit. Instead, faced and soft-­spoken, dressed in a Ochoa let the chicharrones add dark Criollo shirt with a matching the crunch. apron, and perfectly at ease around food and fire. It was a sunny morn- ere at milk street, we ing, the restaurant slowly coming H needed some culinary transla- to life for lunch service, and we tion to make carnitas work in a were seated in a large walled-in gar- home kitchen. We kept the flavor den with chickens running amok profile (oregano, thyme, garlic and and an outdoor cooking area cov- onion), but the eight-hour confit ered with plastic tarps. had to be rethought. We opted to Dried leaves on the roof started braise pork butt in oil and water to smolder and were raked off casu- (1 cup each) in a moderate oven for ally, as if the occasional fire is part three hours. This gave us some of and parcel of outdoor cooking. The the benefits of confit in less than cook fire was started with 3-foot half the time. If we had chichar- lengths of dry kindling. After an rones, then crisping the pork would hour, they had a solid base of coals, not be necessary, but since this was and Ochoa placed a black metal not an option, we followed com- cooking grate over the top. By the mon carnitas procedure by crisping garden wall, another cook was chunks of pork in a nonstick skillet roasting peppers, garlic and onion for a few minutes to improve the on a large comal. She then moved texture. (You can flip the pork over on to blue corn tortillas, stacking after a few minutes and do both them for service. Oaxaca has a soft, sides if you like carnitas extra- easy pace to it: wood smoke, dried crispy.) We also offer a quick recipe leaves, chickens underfoot, soft win- for pickled onions, as it was served ter light—it’s rhythmic and lulling. in Oaxaca. And we agree that fresh Ochoa prepares carnitas much cilantro and an avocado salsa are like a confit. (Most meat dishes in the perfect accompaniments. A few Oaxaca call for precooking the meat sliced radishes, as they offered in in a pressure cooker or simmering Oaxaca, also make a nice addition. it in water.) He marinates it over- In Oaxaca, fire is still at the night using 35 grams of salt (about foundation of culinary tradition, 2 tablespoons) per 5 liters of water, whether to heat a comal and char plus garlic, onion and other sea- vegetables and chilies, or to place sonings. Then the pork is cooked a skillet directly on or over the in oil in a glazed earthenware pot coals. It’s a reminder that cooking at 225°F for eight hours along with At Oaxaca’s Criollo restaurant, sous chef Jesús Ochoa and other staffers in the 21st century may be easier,

garlic, thyme, pepper, oregano, cumin are experts at cooking carnitas and other dishes over a wood fire. but it certainly isn’t any better. ◆ Kimball Christopher Photos:

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20_0506_MSM_Carnitas.indd 22 3/10/20 9:50 AM May–June 2020

[ MILK STREET A t H ome] Carnitas

Start to finish: 4 hours (45 minutes Don’t trim the fat from the active) | Servings: 4 to 6 pork shoulder. The pork should uthentic mexican render its fat in the oven. And carnitas involves slow­- after cooking, don’t discard the A cooking pork in lard until fat you skim off the cooking fall-apart tender. In the U.S., liquid—you’ll need some of it to however, carnitas usually is made crisp the shredded pork in a hot by simmering pork in liquid, skillet. —Diane Unger then shredding the meat. The result is moist and tender, but 5 to 6 pounds boneless pork lacks intense porkiness as well as butt, not trimmed, cut into the crisping that makes carnitas 2-inch cubes so delicious. Our method melds 1 large yellow onion, halved the two techniques. We braise and thinly sliced cubes of pork shoulder in 1 cup 10 medium garlic cloves, each water and oil until the meat smashed and peeled is fork-tender. We then break the 2 tablespoons ground cumin pork into smaller pieces, moisten 2 tablespoons ground coriander it with the reduced juices, and fry 2 teaspoons dried oregano it. If you have a fat separator, it ½ teaspoon dried thyme makes quick work of removing 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes Our carnitas recipe yields pork that is both meltingly tender and crispy. the fat from the cooking liquid: Kosher salt and ground black pour the liquid into it after pepper fat as possible; reserve the fat. removing the pork from the pot, 1 cup grapeseed or other Bring the defatted cooking liquid Pickled Red Onions then return the defatted cook- neutral oil to a simmer over medium-­high ing liquid to the pot, but remem- and cook, stirring occasionally, Start to finish: 10 minutes, ber to reserve the fat. You can ■ Heat the oven to 325°F with a until reduced to about ⅓ cup, plus chilling Makes about 2 cups cook, shred and moisten the pork rack in the lower-middle position. about 5 minutes. Set aside. with the reduced cooking liquid In a large (at least 7-quart) Dutch ■ When the meat is cool enough 1 cup white vinegar up to three days in advance; fry oven, stir together the pork, onion, to handle, break the chunks into 2 teaspoons white sugar the pork just before serving so it’s garlic, cumin, coriander, oregano, ¾- to 1-inch pieces, discarding Kosher salt hot and crisp. If you like your thyme, pepper flakes and 2 tea- any large pieces of fat. Return the 2 medium red onions, halved carnitas extra-crisp, after brown- spoons salt. Stir in the oil and pork to the pot and stir until and thinly sliced ing the first side, use the spatula 1 cup water. Cover, transfer to evenly moistened with the reduced 1 jalapeño chili, stemmed, to flip the pork and cook until the the oven and cook for 3 hours. cooking liquid. halved lengthwise and second side is well browned and ■ Remove the pot from the oven. ■ In a nonstick 12-inch skillet seeded crisp. You can serve carnitas Stir the pork and return the pot, over medium-high, heat 1 tea- simply with rice and beans or uncovered, to the oven. Cook until spoon of the reserved fat until ■ In a medium bowl, combine the make tacos with warmed corn a skewer inserted into the meat barely smoking. Add the pork vinegar, sugar and 2 teaspoons salt, tortillas. Either way, pickled red meets no resistance, another in an even layer and cook with- then stir until the salt and sugar onions (recipe follows) are a 30 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, out stirring, pressing the meat dissolve. Stir in the onions and jala- must—their sharp acidity per- transfer the meat to a rimmed against the skillet with a spatula, peño. Cover and refrigerate for at fectly balances the richness of the baking sheet in an even layer to until the bottom begins to brown least 1 hour or up to 24 hours. ◆ pork. Also offer sliced radishes cool. Tilt the pot to pool the cook- and the pork is heated through, and salsa, such as our tomatillo-­ ing liquid to one side, then use a 3 to 5 minutes. Taste and season For Avocado Salsa recipe, go to avocado salsa (see link). wide spoon to skim off as much with salt and pepper. 177milkstreet.com/MJ20/carnitas Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

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20_0506_MSM_Carnitas.indd 23 3/11/20 3:57 PM Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine

[ MILK STREET C ooking S chool ] ■ In a large bowl, whisk together Season with salt and pepper, then the oil, lime juice, allspice and 1 tea- toss again. Serve topped with ses- For better salads, spoon salt, then stir in the chili(es). ame seeds (if using). skip the knife and grab your grater Using the large holes of a box grater, shred the jicama, then the Beet and Carrot Salad with mango, rotating the mango when Horseradish and Dill Stop Chopping. Start Grating. you reach the pit; discard the pit. Add the jicama, mango and cilan- Start to finish: 30 minutes tro to the bowl, then toss. Let Servings: 4 to 6 stand for 20 minutes. Season with hredded red beets and salt and pepper, then toss again. Scarrots tossed with lemon juice, horseradish and a good measure Curried Carrot Salad with of fresh dill make a salad that’s Golden Raisins vibrant in both flavor and color. The beets do not need to be peeled Start to finish: 35 minutes before shredding, but do scrub (15 minutes active) them well, then pat them com- Servings: 4 to 6 pletely dry. Shred the carrots hen vegetables such as before the beets so the carrots Wcarrots are shredded, cell walls aren’t stained by the beets. That break down and sugars and other said, after tossing, the entire salad compounds are released, resulting eventually will turn deep red. in sweeter, more intense flavor. In this recipe, shredded carrots are ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil allowed to stand for 20 minutes 3 tablespoons lemon juice in the dressing to slightly soften 2 tablespoons prepared Shredded root vegetables star in these colorful, flavor-packed salads. them and give the flavors time horseradish to meld. This salad is great as Kosher salt and ground black Story by Shaula Clark part of an Indian-inspired meal pepper Jicama and Mango Salad or alongside roasted chicken, 2 medium carrots (about 8 ounces aten raw, fibrous root vege- with Chili-Lime Vinaigrette pork or lamb. total), peeled Etables too often taste pretty 2 medium red beets (about 8 ounces much how they sound: dull and Start to finish: 30 minutes ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil total), trimmed, scrubbed and tough. But transforming them into Servings: 4 to 6 ¼ cup cider vinegar patted dry a sweet, tender salad turns out to icama is a root vegetable 1 tablespoon curry powder ⅓ cup lightly packed fresh dill, be simpler than we thought. Jwith a light, crisp texture. For 1 tablespoon finely grated fresh chopped, plus more to serve It’s all in how you slice them— this salad, choose a firm, slightly ginger 1 tablespoon caraway seeds, or rather, grate them. Grating underripe mango, as a ripe one Kosher salt and ground black crushed ruptures plant cells, releasing sug- will be too soft to shred. pepper Sour cream, to serve (optional) ars and volatile hydrocarbons, the —Rebecca Richmond 1 pound carrots (4 medium), peeled sources of the vegetable’s sweet- ¾ cup golden raisins or dried ■ In a large bowl, whisk together ness and aroma. The more cells ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil cranberries the oil, lemon juice, horseradish, you rupture, the better the taste. 3 tablespoons lime juice ½ cup lightly packed fresh 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon And grating ruptures more cells ½ teaspoon ground allspice cilantro, chopped pepper, then let stand for about than just about any other prep Kosher salt and ground black Toasted sesame seeds, to serve 10 minutes. Using the large holes technique. The shreds also have pepper (optional) of a box grater, shred the carrots, porous surfaces, which help the 1 or 2 Fresno or jalapeño chilies, followed by the beets; reserve dressing stick. stemmed, halved and thinly ■ In a large bowl, whisk together separately. Add the shredded veg- The result is a sweeter, more sliced the oil, vinegar, curry powder, gin- etables, dill and caraway to the tender and more flavorful salad 12 ounces jicama, peeled and ger and 1¼ teaspoons salt. Using bowl, then toss. Season with salt even before you dress it. Shredded halved the large holes of a box grater, and pepper. Transfer to a serving carrot salad is a French classic, but 1 medium firm mango, peeled shred the carrots. Add the carrots, bowl and sprinkle with additional we’ve found the technique also ½ cup lightly packed fresh raisins and cilantro, then toss to chopped dill. Serve with a dollop works well with beets and jicama. cilantro, roughly chopped combine. Let stand for 20 minutes. sour cream (if using). ◆ Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

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20_0506_MSM_CS_ShreddedSalads.indd 24 3/10/20 10:00 AM | ■ May–June 2020 ◆ Let’s Make Quiche? After lunch at Seattle’s Le Pichet, where the quiche is mile-high, rich in flavor, yet light in texture, I developed a pressing urge to bake a quiche.

Change the Way You Cook

Use a Baking Steel for a Better, Easier Crust kip the blind baking—a hot Sbaking steel (or baking stone) helps brown the bottom crust of the quiche, thwarting sogginess. ◆

you for treating me like an adult, not some sneakered teenager. But I digress. During my next visit to Le Pichet, I went for the quiche and found myself face to face with a mile-high slice of custard pie, stuffed with mushrooms, lardons and Gruyère. It was both creamy and rich, trem- bling and light, held together by a sturdy crust that shattered then melted in the mouth. The genius of this rec- Le Pichet serves up French fare—including charcuterie, oysters and French onion soup—in a classic bistro setting. ipe was the marriage of rich cream and light texture—it never felt greasy Story by Christopher Kimball You don’t come to Le Pichet to be For years I spied quiche on the or heavy in the mouth; it slid down seen or to hobnob. You come here to menu but instead chose dishes further the gullet with barely a whisper of very fall, when I visit eat very good food, drink good cheap afield, seasonal specialties to expand overindulgence. Not health food, of Seattle while on book tour, I wine and enjoy the company of whom- my culinary education with items course, but healthy food—a dish that stop for lunch at Le Pichet, ever you happen to be with. (In my such as buttermilk-fried pork tongue perfectly suits its purpose without E the model of a small French case, that would be the server.) on a bed of shredded carrots. Then, excess while delivering pleasure neighborhood restaurant. The menu one year, I ordered eggs with ham beyond its ingredients. is purposely limited—saucissons and and Gruyère with a half baguette and Le Pichet’s pastry chef was kind plates of charcuterie, gâteau au foie two glasses of Côtes du Rhône and enough to send the recipe and, at first de volaille (chicken liver terrine), remembered how I had fallen in love glance, I was taken aback by the calo- tartines, broiled eggs with ham and with French cooking during a family rie count (crème fraîche, heavy cream, Gruyère, raclette, oysters, gratin vacation to Paris in 1967. Embar- eggs and Gruyère). But I soon discov- Lyonnais (Lyon-style French onion rassed by the formal tours organized ered that there was something about soup) and, on most days, quiche. by Monsieur and Madame Kimball, I the crème fraîche that lightened the Le Pichet has a scattering of played hooky and ended up at a Left load. I am at a loss to explain the sci- tables on the sidewalk, and the floor Bank restaurant, almost identical to ence of this mixture, but the crème is patterned black and white tiles. Le Pichet, where I ordered my first fraîche was adding more than tang; it The bar (I sit just behind the espresso glass of house wine, duck breast with was defying gravity by loosening the machine) appears to be made of lentils, and pineapple sorbet for des- texture and providing the sensation zinc. It reminds me of the bar in sert. I managed to mumble some- of airiness while delivering a punch one of my favorite Paris eateries, Le thing about “l’addition” (the bill), of Gruyère and, in our case, tarragon Rubis, which also has a limited Rich yet airy, Le Pichet’s indulgent figured out the franc-dollar conver- and Canadian bacon. It also helped

Photos: Kyle Wendt (window); Jim Drohman (quiche slice)menu, house wines and low prices. deep-dish quiche defies gravity. sion and left an outsize tip as a thank that the ratio of Continued on page 26

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20_0506_MSM_Quiche.indd 25 3/11/20 4:46 PM Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine

eggs to dairy was high (12 eggs per things light. Yes, you can substitute 3 cups dairy) and the recipe was easy store-bought pie pastry if you must on the cheese. There are times in life (take two crusts, press them together, when one is becalmed by quiet des- fold into quarters, shape into a 6-inch peration and only a slice of quiche round and refrigerate before rolling), will do. Well, here you are. but you might as well go all in. This is At Milk Street, we fiddled with not indulgence; this is self-­indulgence ratios and ended up with six eggs to that includes the joy of making the 2½ cups dairy and used 6 ounces of thing in the bargain. Half measures Gruyère, a modest amount to keep do not yield culinary joy. ◆

Deep-Dish Quiche with Mushrooms, Bacon and Gruyère

Start to finish: 1½ hours (40 minutes 6 large eggs active), plus cooling | Servings: 8 to 10 1 cup crème fraîche t le pichet, a French bistro 1½ cups heavy cream in Seattle, Washington, we ⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper A rekindled our love for quiche. ⅛ teaspoon grated nutmeg This recipe is based on the restau- Kosher salt and ground black rant’s formula for creating a quiche pepper that’s tall and creamy, yet light and 2 tablespoons salted butter richly flavored. The key is crème 1 medium yellow onion, finely fraîche in addition to the heavy cream, chopped along with just the right number of 12 ounces cremini mushrooms, eggs. Baking the quiche on a hot bak- trimmed, halved and thinly sliced ing steel (or baking stone) obviates ½ cup dry white wine the need to prebake the crust (a has- All-purpose flour, for dusting sle of most quiche recipes), as the Pastry for deep-dish quiche, shaped heat from the steel helps brown the into a disk and chilled (recipe bottom crust, thereby staving off follows; see note for using sogginess. We’re fond of buttery purchased dough) homemade pastry, but if you wish to 6 ounces sliced Canadian bacon, take a shortcut, stack two refriger- cut into ¼-inch pieces ated pie crusts on top of each other, 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh then fold into quarters. Press the tarragon Despite its abundance of rich ingredients, this quiche is both light and lofty. dough layers together, shape into a 6 ounces Gruyère cheese, shredded 6-inch disk, wrap tightly in plastic (1½ cups) about 3 minutes. Transfer to a medium pie plate, positioning the tip of the and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. bowl and set aside. wedge at the center. Unfold the dough, Roll out the dough and line the tart ■ In a large bowl, whisk the eggs. Add ■ Lightly flour the counter. Mist a then carefully ease it into the corners pan or pie plate as you would if the crème fraîche and whisk until 9-inch-round by 2-inch-deep tart and up the sides of the pan or plate, using the homemade pastry for thoroughly combined. Add the cream, pan with a removable bottom or a allowing the excess to extend past deep-dish quiche. cayenne, nutmeg and ½ teaspoon each deep-dish glass pie plate with cook- the edge. If using a tart pan, roll the Don’t slice the quiche while it’s salt and black pepper, then whisk ing spray. Unwrap the pastry disk rolling pin across the top of the pan warm. Allow it to cool to room tem- until well blended. Cover and refrig- and set it on the floured surface. If to trim off the excess dough, then set perature or, better yet, refrigerate it, erate until ready to use. the dough is too firm to roll, let it the pan on a large plate (so the pan is covered, for at least six hours or up to ■ In a nonstick 12-inch skillet over stand for 10 to 20 minutes. Dust the easier to handle); if using a pie two days before slicing. If refriger- medium-­high, melt the butter. Add the surface of the dough with flour and, plate, fold and crimp the edges of the ated, slice it while chilled, then bring onion, mushrooms and ¾ teaspoon using a rolling pin, roll it to a 14-inch dough. Refrigerate uncovered until to room temperature before serving. salt, then cook, stirring occasionally, round about ⅛ inch thick, rotating the dough is firm, about 1 hour. Heat If you prefer to serve it warm, place until the liquid released by the mush- often and dusting with flour as the oven to 450°F with a baking steel individual slices on a parchment-­ rooms has evaporated, the onion is needed to prevent sticking. or stone on the middle rack. lined baking sheet and heat in a softened and the mixture browns, ■ Fold the dough round in half, ■ Stir the bacon and tarragon into 450°F oven for 8 to 10 minutes. 12 to 15 minutes. Add the wine and then in half again, forming a wedge. the cooled mushroom mixture. Dis-

—Diane Unger cook, stirring, until fully evaporated, Transfer the dough to the tart pan or tribute the mixture evenly in the Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

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20_0506_MSM_Quiche.indd 26 3/11/20 8:51 AM May–June 2020

chilled pastry, then top with the ■ In a medium bowl, whisk together cheese. Set the tart pan or pie plate the flour and salt. Add the butter and on a rimmed baking sheet. Slowly toss, separating any stuck-together pour in the egg-cream mixture, cubes, until evenly coated. Freeze allowing it to seep in; the pan will uncovered for 10 minutes. be very full. Carefully slide the bak- ■ Transfer the chilled flour-butter ing sheet onto the hot baking steel, mixture to a food processor. Pulse then immediately reduce the oven until the butter chunks are about the to 350°F. Bake until the quiche jig- size of peas, 10 to 12 pulses. Add the gles slightly at only the center, 55 to water and process until the mixture 65 minutes (the center should reach forms clumps but does not come 1. To the beaten eggs, add the 2. In a nonstick 12-inch skillet 3. Cook until the mixture 165°F to 170°F); lay a sheet of foil together in a ball, 20 to 25 seconds. crème fraîche; whisk to combine. over medium-high, melt the browns, 12 to 15 minutes. Then Turn the dough out over the quiche if the surface browns ■ onto the counter Then whisk in the cream, cayenne, butter. Add the onion, mushrooms add the white wine and cook, too much. and press it into a disk about 6 inches nutmeg and salt and black pepper. and ¾ teaspoon salt. stirring, until fully evaporated. ■ Transfer the quiche from the bak- wide. Wrap tightly in plastic, smooth- ing sheet directly to a wire rack and ing out any ragged edges. Refrigerate cool until barely warm to the touch, for at least 1 hour or up to 2 days. about 2 hours. If you’ve used a tart pan, carefully remove the outer ring, then return the quiche (still on the pan ◆ V ariation ◆ bottom) to the rack. Cool completely Deep-Dish Quiche before cutting into wedges. with Swiss Chard, Roasted Peppers and Cheddar Pastry for Deep-Dish Quiche ollow the recipe to mix Fand refrigerate the egg-cream 4. Transfer the mushroom mixture 5. Dust the surface of the dough 6. Fold the dough round in half, Start to finish: 2½ hours mixture. In a 12-inch skillet over to a medium bowl and let cool with flour and, using a rolling then in half again, forming a wedge (25 minutes active) | Makes one medium, melt 1 tablespoon salted completely. Stir in the Canadian pin, roll it to a 14-inch round shape that can more easily be 9-inch-round deep-dish pastry butter. Add 1 bunch Swiss chard bacon and chopped tarragon. about ⅛ inch thick. draped over the pan for baking. e highly recommend using (both stems and leaves, chopped) W a 9-inch-round and 2-inch- and cook, stirring occasionally, deep metal tart pan with fluted sides until the liquid released has evapo- and a removable bottom. The metal is rated, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a a good conductor of heat so the crust plate and cool, then wrap in a browns nicely, even without prebak- kitchen towel and squeeze to remove ing. A deep-dish ceramic or glass pie excess moisture. In the same pan plate (such as Pyrex) will get the job over medium, melt 2 tablespoons done, but the crust will not brown salted butter. Add 1 medium yellow nor crisp as well. onion (chopped) and 1 teaspoon Don’t forget to freeze kosher salt, the then cook, stirring 7. Transfer the folded dough to 8. Carefully ease the dough into 9. Roll a rolling pin over the top of flour-butter mixture for 10 minutes occasionally, until translucent, about a greased tart pan or pie plate, the corners and up the sides the pan to trim off excess dough, ½ cup roasted before processing. This helps the 5 minutes. Stir in positioning the tip of the wedge of the pan or plate, allowing the then set the pan on a large plate red peppers ingredients remain cold as they are (patted dry and chopped), at the center. Unfold the dough. excess to extend past the edge. (so the pan is easier to handle). mixed so the dough is easier to han- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dle and the crust bakes up tender. oregano and the chard. Cook, stir- But if the flour-butter mixture is in ring, until the oregano is fragrant, the freezer for longer than 10 min- about 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate utes, the butter will be extra-firm, so and cool completely. Meanwhile, fol- the processing time will likely need low the recipe to prepare the pastry to be extended. and heat the oven and baking steel. Distribute the chard mixture evenly 245 grams (2¾ cups plus in the chilled pastry, then top with 2 tablespoons) all-purpose flour 6 ounces shredded extra-sharp 1½ teaspoons kosher salt cheddar cheese (1½ cups) and set 12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) cold the pan on a rimmed baking sheet. 10. After chilling the dough 11. Top with the cheese, then 12. Bake the quiche on a hot salted butter, cut into ½-inch Continue with the recipe to pour in for at least 1 hour, distribute move the pan to a rimmed baking steel or stone at 350°F cubes the egg-cream mixture and bake the mushroom-bacon mixture baking sheet, and slowly pour for 55 to 65 minutes. Transfer

Photos: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling:5 Christine Tobin tablespoons ice water and cool the quiche. ◆ evenly over the pastry. in the egg-cream mixture. the quiche to a wire rack to cool.

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20_0506_MSM_Quiche.indd 27 3/11/20 8:55 AM Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine

el aviv’s igra rama is a 1½ teaspoons unflavored powdered Tvegetable-forward restaurant near gelatin Carmel Market. Chef Aner Ben Refael 2 cups plain whole-milk yogurt believes in local—80 percent of the 2 lemons ingredients are locally sourced. Stand- 1 cup heavy cream out dishes include roasted sweet 72 grams (⅓ cup) plus 54 grams potato filled with roasted tomato; (¼ cup) white sugar, divided grilled eggplant drizzled with yogurt 2 large thyme sprigs and garlic; and fig salad with sumac Kosher salt (a tangy spice commonly used in 1 tablespoon ground sumac Middle Eastern cooking). The panna cotta, however, was a ■ In a small bowl, sprinkle the gel- game-changer. By adding yogurt to atin over 2 tablespoons water; set the recipe, Ben Refael produced a aside. Place the yogurt in a medium particularly creamy texture, more bur- heatproof bowl or 1-quart liquid rata than bounce. And a sumac sauce measuring cup, then place a fine- and a sprinkle of dried za’atar (wild mesh strainer across the top; set thyme) made intriguing counterpoints aside. Using a vegetable peeler, to the panna cotta, which was fla- remove eight 4-inch-long strips of vored with lemon verbena. zest from 1 lemon; grate the zest Back at Milk Street, we focused from the second lemon and reserve on recapturing the taste and texture the grated zest separately from the of Igra Rama’s version. We found that zest strips. Squeeze ¼ cup juice from 2 cups of whole-milk yogurt gave us the lemons. the right lush, creamy consistency. ■ In a small saucepan, combine Lemon zest and thyme replace the the cream, 4 strips lemon zest, the lemon verbena and za’atar, infusing Whole-milk yogurt gives this panna cotta its rich, creamy consistency. 72 grams (⅓ cup) sugar, thyme and the panna cotta base with bright, her- a pinch of salt. Cook over medium, baceous flavors. A sumac-laced citrus stirring, until the mixture begins to syrup reinforces the tartness of the At Igra Rama near Carmel Market in Tel Aviv, simmer at the edges. Remove from yogurt. Even panna cotta evolves! chef Aner Ben Refael riffs on an Italian classic. the heat, add the gelatin mixture and stir until fully dissolved. Cover and Yogurt Panna Cotta with let stand for 5 minutes. Strain the cream mixture Sumac Syrup ■ into the Why Not Make Panna Cotta yogurt; discard the solids in the Start to finish: 3¾ hours (45 minutes strainer. Whisk in the grated lemon active) | Servings: 6 with Yogurt? zest. Divide the mixture evenly among his panna cotta is more six 6-ounce ramekins. Refrigerate, Story by Christopher Kimball T nuanced than standard all-cream uncovered, until cold and set, at least panna cotta. Just the right amount of 3 hours. If storing for longer than yogurt adds a creamy suppleness and 3 hours, cover with plastic wrap and a subtle tang, and lemon zest and refrigerate for up to 3 days. thyme lend their perfume. Panna ■ Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, cotta is made in individual portions combine the lemon juice, the remain- that often are unmolded for serving, ing 4 zest strips, the 54 grams (¼ cup) but we simply bring the ramekins to sugar, ½ cup water and a pinch of the table, each topped with a spoon- salt. Simmer over medium and cook, ful of sweet-tart sumac- and lemon-­ stirring occasionally, until reduced infused syrup. Sumac is a Middle to ⅓ cup, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove Eastern spice with a brick-red hue from the heat, stir in the sumac and and tangy, citrusy flavor; look for it cool to room temperature. in well-stocked supermarkets and ■ Pour the syrup into a fine-mesh Middle Eastern grocery stores. strainer set over a small bowl; dis- Don’t use nonfat or low-fat card the solids. Cover and refrigerate yogurt. Whole-milk yogurt is essen- until cold or for up to 3 days. To tial for smooth, lush richness. And serve, uncover the ramekins and don’t use Greek yogurt, which is At Igra Rama, located near Tel Aviv’s Carmel Market, restaurateurs Aner spoon chilled sumac syrup onto each

too thick. —Rose Hattabaugh Ben Refael and Tamir Michaeli (top right) focus on fresh, local ingredients. panna cotta, dividing it evenly. ◆ Photos: Christopher Kimball (three photos at bottom); Connie Miller of CB Creatives (top); Styling: Christine Tobin

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20_0506_MSM_PannaCotta.indd 28 3/11/20 4:14 PM | ■ May–June 2020 ◆ packed with cheese scones showcase a classic Tuscan fla- ■ Heat the oven to 375°F with racks A little savory, a little sweet and vor combination balanced with pops in the upper- and lower-middle posi- of sweetness and plenty of texture. tions. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets And we were pleased to find we with kitchen parchment. In a small Two-Cheese Seeded Scones enjoyed them as much at dinner as at microwave-safe bowl, stir together the breakfast table. the currants and 2 tablespoons water. Microwave uncovered on high until Savory Kale and warm and plump, about 30 seconds; Two-Cheese Scones set aside. In a medium bowl, toss the kale and lemon juice; set aside. In a Start to finish: 1¼ hours (40 minutes active), large bowl, whisk together the flour, plus cooling | Makes 12 large scones sugar, baking powder, baking soda, hen standard breakfast salt and pepper. Wpastries are too sugary, bake a ■ To a food processor, add about batch of these flavorful savory half of the flour mixture and scatter scones—our adaptation of the hearty all of the butter over the top. Pulse kale and cheese scones created by until the butter is in pieces slightly Briana Holt, of Tandem Coffee + larger than peas, 10 to 12 pulses. Bakery in Portland, Maine. Either Transfer to the bowl with the remain- lacinato kale (also called dinosaur or ing flour mixture. Add the currants Tuscan kale) or curly kale will work; and any remaining liquid, the ched- you will need an average-sized bunch dar, pecorino and kale. Toss with to obtain the amount of chopped, your hands until well combined. Add stemmed leaves for the recipe. about one-third of the buttermilk Don’t allow the buttermilk and and toss just a few times with your butter to lose their chill before use. hands, making sure to scrape along Keeping them cold helps ensure that the bottom of the bowl, until the liq- Inspired by Tuscan flavors, this savory scone pairs kale with sharp cheeses. the dough remains workable and uid is absorbed. Add the remaining won’t become unmanageably soft buttermilk in 2 more additions, toss- Story by Albert Stumm To ensure her scones bake up tall during shaping. When rotating the ing after each. After the final addi- and light, Holt adds both baking baking sheets halfway through the tion of buttermilk, toss until no dry, o build a better savory powder and baking soda to her rela- baking time, work quickly so the oven floury bits remain. The mixture T breakfast scone, baker Briana tively dry base dough, which is doesn’t lose too much heat. will be quite crumbly and will not Holt took inspiration from a classic mixed with buttermilk, cream and —Rose Hattabaugh form a cohesive dough. Tuscan dinner combination: kale chilled butter. Cheese oozes out the ■ Lightly dust the counter with and pecorino cheese. sides as the scones bake, leaving 80 grams (½ cup) dried currants flour, turn the mixture out onto it, “I took lots of pecorino and kale crispy bits along the bottom. 87 grams (4 cups) stemmed and then give it a final toss. Divide it into and cooked it until it was soft, and When Holt makes her scones, finely chopped lacinato or curly 2 even piles, gathering each into a then tossed it with lots of pasta,” says she’s working with commercial vol- kale (see note) mound, then briefly knead each Holt, owner of Portland, Maine’s umes. At Milk Street, we found that 1 tablespoon lemon juice mound; it’s fine if the mixture is still Tandem Coffee + Bakery. “I ate that our smaller batches of kale didn’t 455 grams (3½ cups) all-purpose somewhat crumbly. Gather each and thought, ‘How good could that require massaging. Finely chopping flour, plus more for dusting mound into a ball, then press firmly be in a scone?’” the kale, tossing it with the juice and 50 grams (¼ cup) white sugar into a cohesive 5-inch disk about Supremely good, it turns out— setting it aside while we prepared the 4 teaspoons baking powder 1½ inches thick. Using a chef’s knife, but only after Holt borrowed a dough tenderized it enough that the ½ teaspoon baking soda cut each disk into 6 wedges. Place technique for tenderizing the tough salt massage was unnecessary. 2½ teaspoons kosher salt 6 wedges on each prepared baking greens for salads. She chops the kale We also preferred the extra tang 2 teaspoons ground black pepper sheet, spaced evenly apart. Brush the and tosses it with lemon juice, oil added by eliminating the cream in 16 tablespoons (2 sticks) salted butter, tops with the beaten egg, then sprin- and salt, then massages it. The com- favor of using more buttermilk, which cut into ½-inch pieces and chilled kle with the sunflower seeds, press- bination of acidic juice and rubbing reinforced the bright lemon in the 115 grams (4 ounces) sharp or ing lightly to adhere. with coarse salt breaks down and softened kale. And we were careful extra-sharp cheddar cheese, cut ■ Bake until the scones are deep softens the fibrous leaves. not to overwork the dough, mixing into ¼-inch cubes (1 cup) golden brown, 30 to 35 minutes, For balance, she also adds cur- the ingredients only enough to com- 15 grams (½ ounce) finely grated switching and rotating the baking rants, the sweetness of which offsets bine them into a craggy, loose mix- pecorino Romano cheese (¼ cup) sheets halfway through. Cool on the the briny pecorino and sharp white ture that we formed into a round 1½ cups cold buttermilk baking sheets on wire racks for 5 min- cheddar. A topping of toasted sun- before cutting into triangles. 1 large egg, beaten utes, then transfer directly to a rack flower seeds brings a pleasant crunch Brushed with an egg wash to 36 grams (¼ cup) raw shelled and cool for at least another 5 minutes.

Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling:that Christine Tobin contrasts with the tender interior. brown the seed-studded top, the sunflower seeds Serve warm or at room temperature. ◆

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20_0506_MSM_CheddarScone.indd 29 3/10/20 10:06 AM Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine

Transform basic white rice with a bold cilantro puree [ KITCHEN COUNTS] | ■ The Weight of Going Green A Pot of Rice That’s Anything but Plain ◆ At Milk Street, fresh herbs are more than mere afterthought rice. And covering the cooked rice with a towel or garnish. We use them and letting it rest for at least five minutes helped with abandon, treating them prevent the grains from becoming soggy and as salad greens unto gummy when the paste was folded in at the very themselves, blending handfuls end. What we got was a delicious pot of rice, of them into vivid pestos and nearly as simple as plain white rice yet far bolder. tossing heaps into aromatic stir-fries. Cilantro Rice But measuring out herbs can be challenging. Start to finish: 30 minutes That’s because recipes tend to call for prepped Servings: 4 amounts rather than volumes of whole herbs. When a dish requires 1 cup finely chopped fresh his colorful side dish can be turned basil, few of us intuitively know how many 2-ounce T into a light main by topping it with fried clamshell packs of whole leaves to purchase. eggs. To keep the flavor and color of the cilantro To make this easier, we tested a variety fresh and bright, we blend the herb with a few of herbs for volume and weight, with the goal aromatics until smooth, then mix the puree of learning approximately how many ounces of into the rice after the grains are cooked. Don't fluff the rice immediately whole herbs (with stems) should be purchased in after order to get a set volume of leaves. We also cooking. Covering the pan with a towel and wanted to know the equivalents for whole leaves allowing the rice to rest for five minutes pre- and chopped. vents the grains from turning mushy when the Aromatic herb pastes easily upgrade white rice. Of course, herbs vary package to package cilantro puree is folded in. —Julia Rackow and bunch to bunch. A 2-ounce package of thick-stemmed basil offers less edible herb than Story by Albert Stumm 1½ cups long-grain white rice a similar package with thin-stemmed sprigs. Kosher salt We tried to find an average for most herbs, but in simple pot of rice isn’t difficult. Mak- 2 cups lightly packed fresh cilantro, general it’s always safer to buy an ounce or two A ing it flavorful shouldn’t be, either. The coarsely chopped more than you think you need. solution lies in boldly flavored herb pastes, one 1 jalapeño chili, stemmed, seeded and ◆ of the best and easiest ways to transform an oth- roughly chopped erwise boring bowl of plain grains into a side 3 scallions, roughly chopped [ FRESH HERBS: WHOLE & CHOPPED ] worthy of its place in the meal. 3 medium garlic cloves, peeled IF RECIPE PURCHASE LIGHTLY ROUGHLY With unlimited options for possible combi- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil CALLS FOR AT LEAST PACKED CHOPPED nations of oil, herbs, acid and salt, we found fla- 1 teaspoon lime juice, plus lime wedges (finely chopped) LEAVES YIELD vor inspiration in the arroz verde, or green rice, to serve Basil 1⁄3 c. 2 oz. bunch 1¼ c. ¾ c. of Latin America. At its simplest, it’s little more Chives 2 Tbsp. ¼ oz. pkg. or ¼ c. — than cooking long-grain white rice with herbs— ■ In a medium saucepan over high, stir small bunch especially cilantro, stems and all. together the rice, 2 cups water and 1 teaspoon Cilantro ½ c. 3 oz. bunch 11⁄3 c. scant 1 c. But it also came with a problem. Many reci- salt. Bring to a simmer, then cover, reduce to Dill ½ c. 2 oz. bunch 1¼ c. 1 c. pes call for a mere sprinkle of cilantro, resulting low and cook until the liquid is absorbed, 15 to in a flavor too subtle for our taste. Plus, the 20 minutes. Mint ½ c. 2 oz. bunch 1 c. 2⁄3 c. bright aromas and color of what little was used ■ Meanwhile, in a blender puree until smooth Oregano 2 Tbsp. ¼ oz. pkg. ¼ c. 3 Tbsp. are dulled by the heat. ¼ cup water, 1 teaspoon salt, the cilantro, jala- Parsley (Flat-Leaf) . ½ c 2 oz. bunch 1 c. ¾ c. We solved this by trading a sprinkle for a peño, scallions, garlic and oil, about 1 minute. If Rosemary 2 Tbsp. ¼ oz. pkg. scant ¼ c. — full 2 cups of fresh cilantro, and by blending the necessary, add additional water 1 teaspoon at a or 2 small sprigs ingredients in a food processor while the rice time to reach a smooth consistency. When the rice is done, Sage 2 Tbsp. ¼ oz. pkg. or 1⁄3 c. scant 1⁄3 c. cooked. The herbaceous paste—which also ■ remove the pan from small bunch included scallions for a slight allium bite—was the heat, lift the cover, then drape a kitchen Tarragon 2 Tbsp. ¼ oz. pkg. ¼ c. — stirred into the finished rice immediately before towel over the pan. Replace the cover and let serving, preserving the herb’s freshness and its stand for 5 minutes. Thyme 2 Tbsp. ½ oz. pkg. or ¼ c. — Using a fork, small bunch vibrant color. ■ gently fluff the rice. Add the Finely chopped jalapeño lent heat and piquant cilantro puree and lime juice, then gently fold

freshness, while fresh lime juice brightened the in. Serve with lime wedges. ◆ Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

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20_0506_MSM_CilantroRice.indd 30 3/11/20 9:05 AM May–June 2020

Off the Air Editors’ Answers to Milk Street Radio Questions

was negligible. Frozen portions overbaking. The lighter aluminum flavor from naturally occurring of raw dough baked directly pan fell somewhere in the middle. lactic acid-producing bacteria. from the freezer and thawed fully Our takeaway: Glass pans run This acidifies the buttermilk, cooked cookies were equally less risk of overbaking, but also which reacts with leaveners to delicious. Our suggestion: Since make it harder to achieve a rich, produce lighter, fluffier baked cookie recipes vary greatly in dark, flavorfully browned crust. goods. Today, most conventional sugar and dairy content—the By the same token, when baking buttermilk is made by culturing likely sources of the differences in with dark nonstick pans—unless nonfat or low-fat milk with our tests—we suggest freezing you are using a recipe that was bacteria and adding stabilizers individual portions of raw dough specifically designed for this type and thickeners. To see how the and baking those as needed, the of bakeware—it’s a good idea to different styles of buttermilk How the Frozen Cookie technique that gave us reliable reduce either the temperature or affect baking, we made cornbread Crumbles results in both cases. baking time (or both) to prevent using three varieties: conven- tough, overbaked crusts. tional cultured low-fat butter- milk; premium buttermilk, such ooking for a way to satisfy his Blame the Bakeware, as Kate’s (made the old-fashioned cookie cravings without Not the Baker! L way, as a butter byproduct); and a dragging out his mixer each time, common homemade buttermilk Richard Northrup, of Medford, ot all bakeware is created substitute, which calls for mixing Massachusetts, wondered about equal—or so suspects Marissa N whole milk with lemon juice. the best way to prep them in Schmitz of St. Paul, Minnesota. We found that the premium advance. Is it better to freeze raw Her brownies and quickbreads buttermilk yielded the moistest, dough and bake them off as reliably require far longer to bake most flavorful cornbread, while needed, or should he freeze baked than recipes specify. She thinks her the homemade buttermilk cookies and thaw a few at a time? bakeware may be to blame: Her substitute came in a close second. kitchen is stocked with only glass the answer, it turns out, We got similar results with a pans. She wondered if she would depends on the style of cookie. vanilla snack cake. In both cases, get different results using metal. We tested two varieties—oatmeal our least favorite was the drop cookies and slice-and-bake indeed, the material that a Best Bet for Better conventional buttermilk, which sugar cookies. And in each case, pan is made of does affect how Buttermilk? produced chewy, slightly tough we tried two approaches. First, foods cook. Metal is a far better baked goods. Pancakes were an we baked the cookies, then froze conductor of heat than glass, so anomaly, cooking up lighter hristy Avery, of Seattle, them and later thawed them. food in metal pans cooks more and fluffier with conventional Washington, gets mixed Second, we divided the raw quickly. The color of your pans C buttermilk than with either the results when using premium doughs into individual portions, plays a role, too: Dark-colored premium or homemade versions. buttermilk rather than typical froze them, then baked them metal pans absorb and distribute Our conclusion: For everyday supermarket buttermilk. Some from frozen. With the sugar heat more quickly than light-­ use, such as pancakes, conven- baked goods turn out great, while cookies—which are made by colored pans. To suss out what this tional buttermilk probably is fine. others fall flat. She wanted to rolling the dough into a log, then means for baking, we prepared But for tender, flavorful baked know whether premium butter- slicing it into rounds—we found pound cakes using loaf pans goods, premium buttermilk (or milk is worth seeking out and, if that freezing already-baked made from glass, light-colored the homemade substitute) may so, what’s the best way to use it? cookies left them dry and crumbly aluminum and dark nonstick-­ be a better approach. ◆ when thawed. We had far better coated aluminum. As expected, as the name suggests, results when we froze raw slices the cake baked in the glass pan buttermilk is the byproduct of Milk Street Radio of the log, then baked those had the lightest crust, with making butter. In traditional pro- is a weekly, hour-long public direct from the freezer. But with relatively little browning. The duction, cream is churned into radio broadcast and podcast. the drop cookies, we found the dark nonstick pan had the butterfat and buttermilk. The Subscribe on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, difference in freezing methods darkest crust, to the point of latter gets its signature tangy TuneIn, Stitcher and Google Play. Illustrations: John Dykes (Sara Moulton and Christopher Kimball); Ross MacDonald (freezing cookies, buttermilks)

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20_0506_MSM_RadioQA.indd 31 3/11/20 9:12 AM Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine

K itchen Cabinet [ BOOK REVI EWS] by C hristopher K imball

Jenn Louis Rethinks Butter Falastin: A Cookbook ricotta, orange and crispy sage. Chicken is tarted up as “Lemon Butter Chicken with Chicken...with Chickpeas By Sami Tamimi and Peaches and Rosemary.” You get the point. Tara Wigley Herbs, spices and fruit are the key players here, arabic does not put to good use to liven up everyday meals. have a “P,” so Palestine is Underneath this sometimes-phantasmic pronounced “Falastin”— collection of flavors, there is a system. Peters the title of a new cookbook thinks in threes—three radically different from Yotam Ottolenghi collaborators Sami flavors that form the basis of a successful flavor Tamimi and Tara Wigley. Born in East marriage. As for citrus zest, no teaspoons for Jerusalem, Tamimi moved to London in 1997, her; tablespoons are the preferred quantity, where he met Ottolenghi, co-authoring especially in baking. If you want to change “Ottolenghi” and “Jerusalem.” London native how you cook—to learn new tricks—I heartily Wigley started working with Ottolenghi in recommend “365.” You may find some of her 2011. Now, Tamimi and Wigley have authored combinations challenging, but your everyday a cookbook with one foot in the past (the cooking will never be the same. Hey, life’s Palestinian dishes Tamimi grew up with) and short; it’s time to try dates in your meatloaf! the other in the 21st century. The traditional when dinner needs to get foundations are there—tahini, tabbouleh, on the table fast, Jenn Louis labneh, kofta—but Tamimi also adapts Sour: The Magical isn’t afraid to make a mess. The fundamental flavors and techniques to simpler Element That Portland, Oregon, chef and purposes: spiced salmon skewers, cilantro pesto, Will Transform author of “The Book of Greens” spicy roasted new potatoes. Also of note are Your Cooking Jenn Louis has a go-to throw-together the cooks interviewed for this book: Daher meal inspired by Indian butter By Mark Diacono Zeidani, a Nazareth restaurateur who has strong chicken—except she uses chickpeas. “It will opinions about everything; Islam Abu Aouda, i am full up with come together in a mess of wonderfulness,” who gives cooking lessons in a Bethlehem fermentation as a trend, a she says of the classically creamy-rich and warmly refugee camp; and Daoud Nassar, whose family cause and the North Star of culinary status. spiced dish. To make, in a large saucepan over has lived on the same land since 1916 and is in Not that I don’t appreciate kimchi, sauerkraut medium-high, melt 4 tablespoons salted butter. and out of court to defend it. “Falastin” is not and the like, but there is a core of truth that is Add 1 medium red onion (chopped) and a political book; it’s a people book. But most overwhelmed by waves of media hype. Imagine cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 3 to of all, it’s a cookbook that translates the rich my relief when someone finally took the notion 4 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons tomato paste culinary history of the former Palestine into of sour and turned it into an imaginative and 3 tablespoons minced fresh ginger, then healthy, vibrant food for the 21st-century table. cookbook that celebrates the full range of sour cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. foods, not just the wonky side of fermentation. Add 4 medium plum tomatoes (cored and Mark Diacono writes, “Allowing bitter to be chopped), 1 tablespoon­­ garam masala, 365: A Year of bitter, sweet to be sweet and sour to be sour 1 teaspoon each ground coriander, ground Everyday Cooking widens the experience and pleasure in what turmeric and ground cumin, ¼ teaspoon and Baking we eat.” Well said. Tahini-lime dressing, red pepper flakes, 1 teaspoon kosher salt fermented summer salsa and roasted plums and ½ teaspoon black pepper. Cook, stirring, By Meike Peters with labneh are fresh and appealing. And until the tomatoes have fully broken down, what do you get I love the broad brushstroke of sour, covering 6 to 8 minutes. Add 2½ cups water and bring when you cross Malta with everything from naturally sour foods such as to a simmer. Add three 15½-ounce cans Berlin? You get Meike citrus and sumac, to fermented dairy products chickpeas (rinsed and drained), then cook, Peters, who grew up in western Germany and (buttermilk, kefir, etc.). The book provides uncovered and stirring occasionally, until the now splits her time between Berlin and Malta— simple, straightforward recipes with clear, liquid reduces and has thickened enough to the latter offering a pantry full of warming friendly instructions: “Please don’t be afraid cling to the chickpeas, 7 to 9 minutes. Off spices and the zest of citrus fruits. Some of the of bacteria” and “Take an enthusiastic yet heat, stir in 2 teaspoons honey, then taste offerings in “365” are clearly rooted in German steady approach at first.” Diacono reminds me and season with salt and pepper. Serve comfort food, such as the beet and potato of my grade-school swimming teacher, who sprinkled with chopped fresh cilantro and stew. But from there on, hold on to your culinary through quiet reassuring tones got me to warmed naan or steamed basmati rice. ◆ hat: Meatloaf is strafed with coriander, cumin, jump into the deep end without fear. Kefir,

dates and orange. Spaghetti is crowned with here I come! ◆ Photos: Ed Anderson (Jenn Louis); Connie Miller of CB Creatives (butter chickpeas); Styling: Christine Tobin

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20_0506_MSM_KitchenCabBooks.indd 32 3/10/20 10:32 AM A World of Flatbread

Nearly every country has some tradition of flatbread, whether corn tortillas in Mexico or spongy sourdough injera in Ethiopia. Most of these recipes date back millennia, as they require little equipment and can be made simply with flour, water and heat. Only later did risen loaves evolve, and even then primarily in regions with ample trees that provided the greater heat source needed for oven baking. Despite the preponderance of loaf-style bread today, numerous styles of wheat flour flatbreads remain staples around the globe.

PARATHA HIMBASHA India has many flatbreads, including Spongier and somewhat thicker than other flatbreads, this naan and roti, typically cooked spiced bread from Ethiopia and Eritrea is made on special on the inside walls of a occasions, particularly Christmas. Flavorings for the mildly tandoori oven. Lesser sweet dough most often include ground known are parathas, cardamom, raisins and black which are skillet-baked sesame seeds. The and have distinctive dough rises twice flaky layers. This is before being because the dough—made decoratively scored, with either atta (stone-ground then baked in whole wheat flour) or maida (white a wide, shallow pan. flour)—is rolled out, coated with ghee, rolled into a cylinder, Traditionally, himbasha then rolled out again before cooking. Parathas are served with is broken over a child’s curries for dipping, or can be stuffed with spiced mashed back on the first birthday to potato or elaborate combinations of minced meat and egg. give strength.

BUSS UP SHUT TORTA DE ACEITE A cousin of parathas that Meaning simply “oil cake,” torta de aceite is a traditional was brought to the crispy flatbread from southern Spain (it even got a mention Caribbean by Indians who in “Don Quixote”). Slightly sweet, flaky and aromatic of anise, came to work the tortas are made mostly from flour and olive oil and come sugar plantations, dusted with sugar. The small rounds weigh about an ounce. this tender flatbread They are eaten as a snack with coffee, or occasionally are is crumpled with served with olives and spatulas as it cooks on a hard cheeses. griddle. The rumpled texture evokes the Creole background of its name—shortened from “busted up shirt.” More importantly, breaking up the dough varies its contact with the heat, creating a mix of crispy, crunchy and chewy textures.

TABOON Also called laffa, this Levantine flatbread gets its unique texture from baking over a bed of smooth stones in an oven by the same name. The earthenware oven is half-buried and covered by a lid, and the rocks on the bottom create irregular heat points for the yeasted dough, which browns and bubbles in spots. When slathered with hummus and rolled with falafel or meat, it becomes a popular street food. But it also forms the base of musakhan, a Palestinian dish of sumac-spiced chicken mixed with tahini. Illustration: Kendyll Hillegas Kendyll Illustration:

20_0506_MSM_IBC_Flatbreads.indd 1 3/10/20 10:35 AM ◆ May–June 2020 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine Change The Way You Cook ◆ Photo: Name TK

◆ Up at 3 a.m. each day, the Diêp family crafts rice noodles by hand.— Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam ◆

20_0506_MSM_BackCover.indd 4 3/10/20 10:44 AM