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Spiced Chicken Traybake H E R O P K T I M S B I A Zucchini-Pancetta Pasta | Paprika Shrimp R Italy’s Spain’s L H L C ✩ ✩ C K Chicken Vindaloo | Mile-High Quiche H Mumbai’s Seattle’s O A N O C G E U O T H Y E W A Y ◆ CHANGE THE WAY YOU COOK MAY – JUNE 2020 ◆ In Galilee, spices make the dish Spiced Chicken Traybake Crispy Pork Carnitas from Oaxaca…Cheddar Scones with Black Pepper 20_0506_MSM_FrontCover.indd 1 3/9/20 12:22 PM ◆ May–June 2020 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine Change The Way You Cook ◆ RECIPE INDEX Cookish: Throw It Together Chicken and Orzo Soup; Charred Brussels Sprouts; Dry-Fried Beef and Celery �������������6 Fennel-Orange Salad with Harissa and Yogurt Almonds, olives and mint add briny pops of fresh flavor to a fennel salad ���������������������7 Garlicky Spiced Chicken and Potato Traybake with Pomegranate Molasses In Galilee, Reem Kassis revamps a basic chicken traybake with a custom spice blend ����� 8 Garlicky Spiced Chicken Traybake ......Page 8 Vietnamese Scallion Sauce Fennel-Orange Salad with Harissa .....Page 7 Scallions become a savory sauce perfect for shrimp, steak or veggies in Vietnam ����������� 9 Spanish Shrimp and Chickpea Stew Spanish smoked paprika infuses a brothy crock of tender beans ������������������������������ 10 Vietnamese Caramel Chicken In Ho Chi Minh City, cooks lacquer chicken with an easy savory-sweet sauce ������������� 11 Lahmajoun This meat-topped flatbread is the Levant’s answer to pizza ����������������������������������������14 Fast & Slow: Cannellini Beans with Basil, Tomatoes and Parmesan Cheesy, tomatoey baked beans at the speed you need ���������������������������������������������� 16 Greek Braised Chicken with Tomatoes and Cinnamon Sweet spices create a savory sauce for a simple Greek chicken ���������������������������������� 17 Pasta with Zucchini, Pancetta and Saffron ���������������������������� Deep-Dish Quiche with Mushrooms ...Page 25 Zucchini, pancetta and Parmesan combine for a fresh, rich pasta 18 Carnitas with Pickled Red Onions ......Page 22 Patatas Bravas These potatoes are creamy, crunchy and doused with a smoky paprika sauce ���������������20 Chicken Vindaloo In Mumbai, sweet chilies and vinegar pack bold, easy flavor into a one-pan meal ���������21 Carnitas Shredded, sauced and crisped—the tender, juicy pork you need for your tacos �������������22 Cooking School: Shredded Salads Roughing up root vegetables brings out the sweetness in carrots, jicama and beets �������24 Deep-Dish Quiche with Mushrooms, Bacon and Gruyère Crème fraîche and fewer eggs lighten this mile-high quiche ��������������������������������������25 Yogurt Panna Cotta with Sumac Syrup In Tel Aviv, tangy yogurt makes for a creamier version of an Italian classic ����������������� 28 Savory Kale and Two-Cheese Scones Beet and Carrot Salad .....................Page 24 Lahmajoun ....................................Page 14 A Tuscan pasta inspired this dinner-for-breakfast baked treat �����������������������������������29 Cilantro Rice A bracing, herbaceous paste transforms a simple pot of white rice �����������������������������30 [ EVERY I SSUE] Meze: Lessons and discoveries from Milk Street ������������������������������������������������������2 Tuesday Nights at Milk Street: Casual dinners� Fast� ���������������������������������������������� 4 Kitchen Counts: Taking the measure of fresh herbs, whole vs� chopped ���������������������30 Off the Air: Questions from Milk Street Radio, answered �����������������������������������������31 Kitchen Cabinet: Jenn Louis’ Tuesday night chickpea solution ���������������������������������32 Book Reviews ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������32 Sketchbook: Flatbreads from around the world ����������������������������������������������������33 Front Cover Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin Cilantro Rice ..................................Page 30 Front Cover Illustration: Bill Sanderson; Back Cover Photo: Christopher Warde-Jones Yogurt Panna Cotta .........................Page 28 ■ Visit us at 177MilkStreet.com and follow us online. cpkmilkstreet 177milkstreet 177milkstreet 177milkstreet 20_0506_MSM_TOC.indd 2 3/9/20 12:25 PM May–June 2020 [ EDITOR’S NOTE] C hristopher K imball Life Among the Ruins President and Founder Christopher Kimball unrise in mexico where I met a woman sitting Media Director and Co-Founder City. We drive south by a small wood fire and pur- Melissa Baldino Editorial Director - J.M. Hirsch to Xochimilco, an area chased a tamale that she had Food Editor - Matthew Card Art Director - Jennifer Baldino Cox famous for 100 miles of cooked in a corn husk. Was I still Managing Editor - Shaula Clark S Books & Special Editions Editor - Michelle Locke interconnected canals that run in the same century? Digital Content Editor - Alison Spiegel between artificial islands called The beans finish simmering Recipe Editor - Dawn Yanagihara Senior Staff Writer - Albert Stumm chinampas. The islands are used in an earthenware cazuela, we Staff Writer - Josephine Yang Contributing Food Editor - Bianca Borges for agriculture: corn, beans, heat up a comal and roast salsa Science Editor - Guy Crosby flowers. Mexico City is a valley ingredients, a sofrito is quick- Magazine Design - Joe Dizney Production Manager - A.K. Summers built on a lake, and these canals cooked and then added to the Art Director, Photography - Brianna Coleman beans at the end of cooking. Art Director, Digital - Devin Sullivan used to run into the center of Graphic Designer - Sophia Valentini the city. Now, they are kept clear Short on implements, García Director of Recipe Development - Diane Unger Culinary Manager - Wes Martin with giant rusted mechanical makes the salsa using the bot- Senior Recipe Developers - Erika Bruce, Courtney Hill dredgers that churn up lily pads tom of a beer glass, crushing Recipe Developer - Rebecca Richmond Assistant Recipe Developers - Calvin Cox, Rose Hattabaugh and other growth that chokes the chilies and tomatoes in a Contributing Recipe Developers - Lynn Clark, Laura Russell the narrow waterways. metal bowl. Culinary Assistant - Elizabeth Mindreau Director of Education - Rosemary Gill In a pale predawn glow, we finally spot the The beans are a revelation—saucy, flavor- Cooking School Manager - April Dodd parking lot next to the boats, which is home ful and bright with sofrito and salsa. Like Media Relations Director - Deborah Broide Brand Development - Christopher Johnson to stray dogs—they circle, unsteady, wary of campers, we eat the beans using small blue corn Vice President of Marketing - David Mack Director of Underwriting - Lisa Hensiek humans. The partially roofed flat-bottomed tortillas folded up as makeshift spoons. Cold Television and Video Co-Executive Producer - Carly Helmetag barges run 40 feet long, with a small outboard beer is poured. The sun is warm. I had come Radio Co-Executive Producer - Annie Sinsabaugh Associate Producer - Jackie Noack for power. Eduardo García, chef/owner of thousands of miles to eat beans on a small Production Assistant - Sarah Clapp Digital Content Director - Evan Petto Máximo Bistrot, is waiting for us, along with a island constructed by the Aztecs before Europe Digital Content Coordinator - Janelle Cox Director of E-Commerce - Missy Sternlicht few kitchen staff, a large pot of soaked beans had entered the Renaissance. Buyer, E-Commerce Merchandising - Jem Wilner and a cooler filled with ingredients. We are That evening, I eat at La Capital: shrimp E-Commerce Operations Manager - McKenzie Lewis E-Commerce Culinary Coordinator - Julia Rackow headed to a small island to prepare García’s cebiche followed by duck enchiladas in a com- E-Commerce Customer Service Associate - Sara McDermott Executive Asst./Office Manager - Maria DeRobertis famous beans for lunch. plex mole negro. There is great Italian food at Circulation Director - Stuart Jordan It’s chilly on the water. The guide running Rosetta, new classics at García’s own Máximo Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Magazine (ISSN 2473-7305), number 21, is published bimonthly by CPK Media LLC, 177 Milk the outboard is wrapped in a thick gray parka; and some of the best street food in the world, Street, Boston, MA 02109. Copyright 2020 CPK Media LLC. Period- the rest of us are huddled on wooden benches. including the now-famous chilaquiles sandwich. icals postage paid at Boston, MA and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Christopher Kimball’s We are on a working barge, not one of the Mexico City is home to nearly 9 million—more Milk Street Magazine, P.O. Box 37338, Boone, IA 50037-0338. For subscription and gift subscription orders, subscription inquiries brightly painted tourist boats, and we pass lone than 20 million if you count the entire valley— or change-of-address notices, go to service.milkstreetmagazine.com or write to us at Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street, P.O. Box 37338, workers poling up the canal in small skiffs. and it’s a ragtag mix of traffic jams, energy, Boone, IA 50037-0338. Mist hugs the canal, but the tops of scraggly and exuberant growth in all directions. Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Cooking School offers online classes as well as instruction at 177 Milk Street in Boston. For our trees are now bright in the sunrise. Pelicans The detritus of history persists: Roman curriculum and schedule, go to 177milkstreet.com/cookingschool. swoop low over the water. We finally turn into roads, amphitheaters and aqueducts. Istanbul’s Milk Street
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