sign in sign up
<<
Home , Beer mile, Duvel Moortgat Brewery, History of beer, Shotgunning, Snaps

Drink Read local. PAPER local.

beerpaperla.com /beerpaperla #beerpaperla @beerpaperla VOLUME 6 | ISSUE 8 | January 2019 | FREE!

by Daniel Drennon I first met Rob Croxall, the owner of El Segundo , at a beer festival on the Rock & Brews patio in 2011. It was a sunny summer day in the South Bay and I told Croxall his Citra Pale was my favorite beer of the fest. He seemed genuinely surprised. His brand new was literally across the street.

Photo Credit: Eli Buck (FULL COVER STORY ON PAGE 12) INSIDE PROFILE WISHFUL DRINKING YAEGER SHOTS HAZE CRAZE FOOD PAIRINGS

PAGE 4 PAGE 6 PAGE 16 PAGE 18 PAGE 20 PAGE 2 JANUARY 2019 | Beer Paper #beerpaperla BEER PAPER

RESILIENCE IPA HAS BEEN BREWED BY MANY OF YOUR LOCAL IN PARTNERSHIP WITH SIERRA NEVADA. SALES BENEFIT THE VICTIMS OF THE CAMP FIRE, THE DEADLIEST WILDFIRE IN CALIFORNIA HISTORY. WE ENCOURAGE YOU TO SUPPORT THIS MOST NOBLE OF CAUSES AT ANY LOCAL BREWERY WHICH BREWED RESILIENCE AS 100% OF ALL PROFITS GO THE VICTIMS.

@rezna @smogcitybeer Beer Paper is dedicated to providing news, commentary and education for the craft beer communities of Los Angeles, Orange County, Inland Empire and Ventura County.

OWNER/PUBLISHER/EDITOR: Daniel Drennon CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Joshua Cortez HEAD WRITER: Daniel Drennon EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT TO THE EDITOR: Renee Imhoff

SENIOR CONTRIBUTOR: Tomm Carroll @thebeerhiker @grain.bill SPECIAL CONTRIBUTORS: Tim Crist, Trevor Hagstrom, Maggie Rosenberg, Brian Yaeger

ORANGE COUNTY ACCOUNTS: Brian Navarro

SOUTH BAY ACCOUNTS: Paul Brauner

FOUNDED BY: Aaron Carroll & Rob Wallace

Beer Paper is 100% funded by our advertisers. Please support them! @craftnomads @socalbrewbus ADVERTISE WITH BEER PAPER We distribute 20,000 print issues a month and have direct access to regional craft beer consumers. For more information about advertising with Beer Paper please contact us at [email protected].

SUBMISSIONS While we will not accept any unsolicited content, Beer Paper is a community project and seeks the participation of talented and knowledgeable individuals. If you are interested in providing news briefs or photographs, writing features or commentary, please contact us with pitches and/or portfolios at [email protected].

@thatbeertho @nagareshi DISTRIBUTION Copies of our publication are available for free at most local craft breweries, better beer bars, homebrew supply stores and bottle shops throughout greater Los Angeles, Orange and Ventura Counties, and the Inland Empire. If you are interested in distributing Beer Paper in your local area, please email [email protected].

ADVERTISING: [email protected] EDITORIAL: [email protected] WEB: www.BeerPaperLA.com FACEBOOK: facebook.com/BeerPaperLA TWITTER/INSTAGRAM: @BeerPaperLA

@tomozobeer @hoppy_life ©2019 Beer Paper LA. All Rights Reserved.

PAGE 4 JANUARY 2019 | Beer Paper

PROFILE HOUSE OF BILLIARDS 40TH ANNIVERSARY THE BEER IS EVEN BETTER THAN THE BILLIARDS by DANIEL DRENNON fan myself, I make sure my lines are super clean, my beer is super fresh and the taps are always rotating so you have choices. I am never buying for next week. I’m buying for today.” Ben’s presence extends far beyond the ability to purchase beer however. He’s a constant figure holding court with locals, regulars, brewers, fellow buyers and craft beer personalities at frequent events where his knowledge and passion for beer takes a backseat to his genuine and giving nature. Bring a safe word to the as Meskin is prone to passing out aged bottles of Peche n’ Brett from his personal cellar. Trading beer for good times, the way it used to be. Let me not overlook the billiards by the way. House of Billiards has 20 tables that look absolutely pristine. When I make that comment, Meskin grins and tells me, “Those tables are 35 years old! One thing I learned from my grandfather is that you’ve gotta have Ben Meskin, third generation owner of House of Billiards Photo Credit: Hawk Vaccaro the best tables in LA. And we take care of them.” That is an understatement. One of LA’s premier destination beer make it more a sports bar and added a downtown Los Angeles (another Beer HoB is a gorgeous and inviting pool bars is turning 40 years old this month. juke box for ambience. HoB became Paper favorite). hall and surprisingly (at least to me), is a destination in the Valley, but not for that it is open to all ages before 8 pm Impossible you say? beer needless to say. Meskin prides himself on cleaning his own draft lines and says, “As a beer and 18 and over after that. Well, yes. That’s true. The destination That transition occurred when in beer bar era of House of Billiards in 2009, Harry passes the baton to a third Sherman Oaks is only six years old. generation of Meskins, his son Ben. But any place with this much cool This is where this story gets exciting history is an anomaly in Tinseltown, so for beer drinkers, because young Ben allow me to give you the back story of was one of us. His first major decision a joint I consider to be one of the best was to bring in great, fresh, local craft kept secrets in our ever-burgeoning beer. Meskin shares, “Beer was my craft scene. passion. Experimenting with different Way back in 1979, Barney Meskin taps. I don’t like to drink the same bought Mother’s, a pool hall located beer every time. I wanna have one of along Ventura Boulevard in Sherman everything on the tap list.” Oaks. He renamed it House of Nowadays, you will find Beachwood, Billiards. Needless to say, bad beer Cellador, Craftsman, Green Cheek, was the drink of the day. Highland Park, Kern River and In the mid-80’s, Barney turned over Modern Times on tap, just to name the reins to his then 30-year old son, a few of the world class breweries Harry Meskin. Harry oversaw the cool represented on the House of Billiard’s pool hall through the ensuring two wall. The state-of-the-art draft system decades which included the smoking was installed by Erik Huig of Huig ban. He built an outdoor patio so the Draft Systems, who like Meskin, runs smokers could be accommodated and his own family-owned destination also brought in a bunch of TVs to beer bar, Barbara’s at the Brewery in Ben Meskin in the cold box Photo Credit: Hawk Vaccaro Beer Paper | JANUARY 2019 PAGE 5

Ben Meskin playing billiards Photo Credit: Hawk Vaccaro I ask Meskin how he pulled off the the latter of which he considers to be conversion to destination beer bar. the most underrated brewery in the Another grin and he offers, “I went to region. a lot of beer events. Making friends in the beer industry was more important House of Billiard’s 40th Anniversary to me than getting the beer, but then Party will be held Thursday, January it just so happened that because we 17 from 7 pm to close. Meskin became friends, brewers and industry promises me, “The tap list is gonna folks would give me their .” kill it.” He will also feature several collaboration beers he brewed with When asked about how he has seen the Cellador and Kern River Brewing beer scene evolve and change in LA, Company along with others to be Meskin responds, “Now there is so announced. Expect many of your much good beer. It’s abundant and it’s favorite brewers to be in the house (of fresh.” He cites his personal favorite Billiards) that night. breweries as those already listed above and then adds Homage and HopSaint, Rest assured, Beer Paper will be there. PAGE 6 JANUARY 2019 | Beer Paper

WISHFUL DRINKING LONDON FALLING THE DUVEL MADE ME DO IT by TOMM CARROLL “We don’t want any trouble here.” Hero of Maida, an upscale in the Maida Hill section of London. About Those words were addressed to me two dozen of us attended, including the moment I walked into The Bottle guild chairman Pete Brown, renowned Shop in the Bermondsey neighborhood author of the 2004 book Man Walks of London on a Saturday in late Into a Pub: A Sociable , November. Not the most welcoming among several others. greeting I’ve received at this venue that I frequent every time I’m in the The delicious and judiciously paired English capital — which has been four-course brunch, each with a beer rather, well, frequently. But I’m getting component, also featured two beery ahead of myself; let me back up a bit… apértifs and a pair of digestifs — the latter of which offered a special rare I’d no plans to pop across the pond to Photo Credit: Mark Dredge treat for this visiting SoCal Yankee: a pay a visit to Blighty last year, until I pint (imperial, or course) of a kegged checked my e-mail in early November. West Coast called Pecking It was a missive from the British Order, a hoppy and orange-zesty collab Guild of Beer Writers (of which I am between North Yorkshire’s Rooster’s a member) that left me gobsmacked: Brewing (where Torrance’s Yorkshire I had been shortlisted by the guild for Square Brewing head brewer Andy a beer writing award in the Regional Black interned) and Orange, CA’s own Media category for several Beer Paper British beer writer Pete Brown, left, and the author Photo Credit: Mark Dredge Green Cheek Beer — not available in articles I had submitted last summer, the Colonies. the only Yank to receive a nod in the enjoying their second (or third) pints of Landlord at the Hero of Maida pub competition. could I not attend the ceremony? I’d Thanksgiving in London was a Advertised as a 10:00 a.m.-noon kick myself if I won something and sunless, chilly (5º C, 41º F) day, but affair, the brunch lingered on…and Interestingly, the awards ceremony wasn’t there to accept it. the warmth and camaraderie at the on for those of us who could afford was scheduled for the 22nd of the Chelsea Harbour Hotel on the River to dawdle, like me, turning this month, which was the evening of But that meant being away for Thames that evening was a great into a typical British “session” of Thanksgiving — or as the Brits call it, Thanksgiving. However, my wife and respite, affording me the opportunity imbibing, though not particularly with “Thursday night.” Was that an omen? several friends convinced me I’d be to catch up with some of the Brit beer session-strength beer. Euroboozer’s I also noticed there were only two daft not to attend the awards ceremony, scribes I know, and to meet many founder and director Martyn Railton other nominations in the Regional and that they could handle Turkey others, including fellow nominees. kept plying us with brews from the Media category, a pair of sisters from Day without me. So I quickly made UK beer was flowing, and so were Maida’s inventory, ranging from the Kildare, Ireland, and a bloke from arrangements for a five-day jaunt and conversations, be they about beer, classic Timothy Taylor’s Landlord Newcastle upon Tyne. And there were flew out of LAX a fortnight later, writing, Brexit or Trump — but no on hand pump to bottle pours of two awards in each category, the Gold arriving at Heathrow the day before arguments over the dinner tables, as no (£1,000) and the Silver (£500). The the event. doubt would be going on back in the odds definitely looked promising. How States a few hours later. To cut a long story short, I wound up on the short end of the shortlist when the awards were announced. The Gold was grabbed by the Geordie (a person from Newcastle and surrounding areas). I actually beat the odds by not winning!

Beer Brunch & Bermondsey For the following day, Black Friday (which, curiously, the Brits do celebrate), Mitch Adams, , writer and beer buyer, had invited all the BGBW Award nominees to a “Beery Brunch,” hosted Pecking Order on tap at The Hero of by his employer Euroboozer, a UK Maida pub in London beer importer and distributor, at The Photo Credit: Tomm Carroll Beer Paper | JANUARY 2019 PAGE 7 the rare Mikkeller/Boon considering a return to the so-called Barrel-Aged Oude Geuze and Stiegl “Bermondsey ” (actually Sonnenkonig II Barrel Double close to two miles now) Saturday, Wit. as that is when all of the breweries, taprooms and bottle shops — each of I also had a long chat with Pete about them housed in a railway arch — are his career, his advocacy for (he open to the public. So now I had to go. was the head researcher for a recently published report on cask beer) and our The next day, starting out at one of my mutual love of British and American favorite Bermondsey breweries, Brew rock ‘n’ roll (he was jealous I had by Numbers (BBNo) to sample its interviewed John Cale in ’78) over excellent and IPAs, I planned dimpled-mug pints of Landlord. to work my way to The Bottle Shop. Even though I was last in the area 14 To bring this tale back on track, I also months ago, there were suddenly so got to talk to award-winning beer and many more new beer venues to visit — travel writer Mark Dredge (who won a several literally next door to BBNo. silver award in that category the night before) about famous beers that are Manchester’s famed Cloudwater just not available on draught. I mentioned opened a taproom a week or so before, the benchmark Belgian Golden Ale and was understandably crowded. The Duvel — not the lower ABV (6.8%) 16 taps were pouring clear as well and unfiltered version known as as hazy beers, among the latter two Duvel Single (née Duvel Green), but brand-new juicy, mango IPAs, Red the original 8.5% version, which I Lorry and Yellow Lolly (named for had heard was not even on draught a popular tongue twister for English at the Duvel Moortgat brewery in children). -Dorp, . In the next archway was London Not so, replied Mark, who told me Calling , a taproom for that that, in fact, the original Duvel was country’s Poppels Bryggeri, featuring actually now on tap at a couple places mostly British- and US-style . in London, including The Bottle Shop And one arch over was the relatively in Bermondsey. What? I was already (LONDON FALLING continued on page 8) PAGE 8 JANUARY 2019 | Beer Paper and continued wiping my face, going The Duvel in the Details though almost the whole packet of wet wipes (and disposing them in a In short, because of the original nearby dustbin) for what seemed like Duvel’s high CO2 content, due to its 20 minutes until the bleeding pretty secondary fermentation (which usually much stopped. Then I took a selfie to takes place in that thick, stubby bottle), see how bad I looked. Not pretty, but the beer won’t dispense properly from at least I wasn’t disfigured. a standard draught system. The beer line, which must be replaced after each I started to order an Uber to return keg, has to be 3 millimeters (0.118 of to my hotel, but then gazed up at the an inch) in diameter to throttle back the sign of The Bottle Shop, only 150 feet CO2 pressure, and only 2 meters (6.5 away. I thought, “I’m this close to that feet) long, so the keg must be housed elusive Duvel on draught, and if it’s just below the tap and refrigerated at still on tap, and I pass it up to go back, precisely 4º C (39.2º F) in a dedicated I’ll kick myself if I miss it.” I felt my unit. Also, the Duvel glass should be nose — no bleeding — looked at my placed under the tap two seconds after selfie again, and decided to go for it. the beer starts flowing from it, and Limping slightly with my sore knee, I held at a 45º angle to get the perfect entered The Bottle Shop. pour, stopping 2 centimeters (0.78 of The original Duvel is now on draught in London Courtesy of Duvel.com an inch) from the rim. and select European cities “We don’t want any trouble here,” shop manager Steve Taylor And let me tell you, the draught Duvel (LONDON FALLING continued) and banging up my knee pretty immediately said to me, assuming that drinks exactly like the bottled version: painfully. Startled and embarrassed, with my ruddy and puffy proboscis and silky-smooth yet effervescent, with new taproom and barrel vault of the I quickly got up and hobbled over glazed, farsighted look, not to mention that massive head. If you’re a fan of award-winning Bristol brewery, Moor to the sidewalk. (Yes, I had been my long, shaggy grey hair, I was some the beer, you need to try this version. Beer (SoCal native Justin Hawke is drinking one-third pints throughout sort of bruiser hell-bent on wreaking I wouldn’t recommend falling on your the owner and brewmaster), one of the the afternoon, but I was not stumbling revenge on the bugger who’d punched face to get it, but it is worth the extra few Bermondsey beermongers that drunk.) me out. I literally burst out laughing effort to taste this devil of a draught offer cask beer. The Smokey Horyzon, Some young ladies came by and asked at his remark, and quickly explained beer. a rauch rye real ale, was simply my unfortunate mishap in my quest for if I was all right. “I think so,” I replied. It’s currently not available in the US outstanding. “Am I bleeding?” I needn’t have asked the original Duvel on draught — then asked, “Is it still on tap?” (London is the closest opportunity), Duvel-Determined as my hand was full of blood when but with Duvel Moortgat owning I felt my nose to make sure it wasn’t It was, and Steve interrupted his Firestone Walker Brewing, wouldn’t But I couldn’t be distracted from my broken (fortunately, it wasn’t). One of bartender to pour me a glass, and even it be nice if FW’s Propagator brewpub real goal that day (which was night by them gave me a packet of wet wipes, refused to take any money from me for in Venice added a draught Duvel now, as the sun sets at 4:00 p.m. in late and I began sopping up the blood, it. I thanked him and deposited some dispensing unit as its first guest beer? November): the Duvel-on-draught that which was seeping mainly from a gash poundage from my pocket into the tip Whaddaya say, Adam and David? drew me here in the first place. The on the bridge of my nose. jar (an item not often seen in British Bottle Shop was just around the corner. Award-winning beer writer Tomm I declined any further assistance from bars). They brought me behind the bar, opened the special Duvel dispenser to Carroll is a longtime contributor Some crosswalks on many London the women and they went on their way. to Celebrator Beer News. He was streets are raised, like speed bumps, When the traffic subsided, I went back show me the works, and explained the process to me. I was grateful, but even honored to be shorted, er, shortlisted, and after looking both ways (twice, of to the center of the street, and despite for a BGBW award, and delighted he course, as Brits drive on the opposite being now completely farsighted, holding up my “monocle,” I couldn’t really see much. was able to drink Duvel on draught, side of the road as we do), I stepped managed to find the unbroken left lens despite the damage he inflicted upon into the crosswalk, immediately of my shattered glasses. Holding it up himself in his quest to do so. Contact tripped on the raised asphalt, and to my eye like a monocle, I could at him at [email protected]. literally face-planted in the middle of least read my phone! I hung out on the the street, smashing my eyeglasses, corner, trying not to look conspicuous,

Bruiser with a brew: Looking the worse for wear, Selfie by Tomm Carroll the author finally gets a Duvel on draught &

CRAFT COFFEE • BEER • Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner ProvisionsDeli.Shop 143 N. Glassell Street N. GLASSELL ST

OPEN AT NOON, 7 DAYS A WEEK

BREWERY AND TASTING ROOM ChapmanCrafted.Beer 123 N. Cypress Street

OLD W. CHAPMAN AVE TOWNE E. CHAPMAN AVE ORANGE

NEW FOR THE S. GLASSELL ST NEW YEAR! As we enter our 10th year in Old Towne Orange, we continue to evolve to better serve our guests. Under the watchful eye of Haven Founder Wil Dee, there’s innovation behind the bar and in the CRAFT BEER, WINE, SPIRITS AND kitchen, where Executive Chef Craig Brady oversees our culinary Lunch, Dinner, Late Night • Brunch Sat & Sun program! His noticeable passion can be seen in new dishes that add finesse to the menu and provide an unparalleled dining experience. HavenCraftedKitchen.com 190 S. Glassell Street We look forward to serving you soon! PAGE 10 JANUARY 2019 | Beer Paper

FOOD PAIRINGS SOUTHLAND BEER ON FOOT by TREVOR HAGSTROM The cliché in Los Angeles is that you between sessions and work off some can’t walk anywhere. Being an avid of the calories. Beer walking is one walker, this rumor was almost enough of our favorite ways to spend a free to scare me away from originally afternoon. moving here. Even scarier was the chatter about how there were no good The best areas we’ve found to do craft breweries in the county. Today, beer walks are in Torrance, The Arts the dynamic beer scene is enough to District near Downtown Los Angeles silence beer skeptics. They built the and in the Northwest of Anaheim. breweries, but it’s still a challenge to Torrance offers the most beer per mile get people to walk between them. L.A. of any of these neighborhoods, with is a great place to walk. From beach nine breweries set within two square strolls on the Westside to hikes in miles. The most efficient walk within the hills and canyons of the Eastside, this beer-centric neighborhood is to there are great walks in almost every start at Del Amo and Western, where neighborhood of the Southland. Still, Monkish, Smog City and Cosmic are we enjoy walking between breweries all clustered. As you walk down Van the most. It is during these walks that Ness, you’ll pass Strand, Red Car exertion can be recessed with a cold, and Yorkshire Square. Then you’ll tasty reward. head back up Torrance Boulevard to Western Avenue and finish at The Besides the obvious advantage of not Dudes Brewing Co. To complete the having to worry about designating a loop and wind up back at Monkish driver, walking between breweries Brewing Co. you will have walked LA Ale Works Exterior Photo Credit: Maggie Rosenberg gives you a chance to pace yourself three miles, and will have had ample opportunity to taste through the L.A. refreshingly tart Para Sol, Iron Triangle area’s most exciting beer block. , and Mumford Brewing Legend Has It, a dry-hopped . The When beer walking, we tend towards highlight of this walk is finishing at lighter, peppier beers to keep the the eerie alleyway that separates Indie energy up. Smog City Little Bo Pils is Brewing from Dry River Brewing. It’s a favorite, Monkish usually has some a nice reward for crossing the river. good small-beers available, like the Subliminal Sequel. The “Los Dudes” Our choice for the most scenic beer Mexican Lager is a nice chuggable walk is in Anaheim. The beer is worth choice for sunny days. Yorkshire the effort, and even a Metrolink ride Square is always chock full of low out to Orange County. Northwest alcohol beers. We usually always drink Anaheim has a couple pockets of from cask here, but in the midst of a breweries that are in walking distance walk, we are sometimes tempted by of each other. Our favorite walk the kegged versions of their beers. follows the north shore of the Santa Flavor usually wins out and we go for Ana River and passes six breweries, a Perfectly Adequate Ale on cask. a the Terreux tasting room for the wild ales of The Bruery, and a new Although there is a dense meadery/cidery along the four-mile concentration of good breweries in path. Start at the brewery, meadery, Torrance, the warehouse scenery restaurant, and home-brew shop isn’t quite idyllic. The gritty urban Phantom Ales and then cut down landscape of the Arts District is a bit towards the river. There are three of a step up in atmosphere. This two- breweries worth checking out on the mile stroll traverses six breweries from same block, Hoparazzi Brewing Co., Boyle Heights to Little Tokyo. You Asylum Brewing, and Bottle Logic could easily stop off at Indie Brewing, Brewing. A couple more blocks down Dry River Brewing, Iron Triangle the river is the incoming Brewery Brewing Co, Arts District Brewing, X (set to open in 2019). Then treat Angel City Brewing, and Mumford yourself to something special at the Brewing. Some good refreshing iconic Family Rue’s Bruery Terreux pints along the way include the Indie Tasting Room. Take a break to gaze Pacific Highway Kölsch, Dry River’s into the Santa Ana River Lakes and Beer Paper | JANUARY 2019 PAGE 11 then, if you can handle any more The area around Claremont, on tasting, check out Stereo Brewing and the eastern edge of L.A. County, is All-American Ale Works. Next door showing promise. Claremont Ales has to All-American is the new Honey Pot a cidery and distillery right next door Meadery, which offers , and to each other, as well as two breweries fruit on draught. (Rok Höuse Brewing Company and Last Name Brewing) right across Refreshing choices along the way the county line in Upland. For those include the Savannah Sunset Mexican looking for a day trip for a brewery Lager and the Cranberry Pomegranate walk, we recommend heading west to Mead at Phantom Ales. Also refreshing the beachside town of Ventura, which and tasty is the She Shot First boasts four breweries in their small, Pale Wheat Ale from Bottle Logic quaint Downtown. Brewing, The Bruery’s Orchard Wit and Stereo Brewing 5-String Session Because the weather is mild year- IPA. Outdoorsy types can even take a round, you can beer walk in the winter, Common Space Interior Photo Credit: Maggie Rosenberg fishing break in the Santa Ana River but we still prefer to do these strolls Lakes to help break up the drinking in the summer when the daylight lasts sessions. through happy hour. As always, make sure to sneak in a water break between We’re always on the lookout for rounds, and don’t be afraid to call a new places to walk, sip and get cab if you get a cramp. some dubious exercise. Based on the dynamic growth of the brewery Trevor Hagstrom and Maggie scene in Southern California, more Rosenberg are food, beverage, and good brewery walking neighborhoods travel content creators who specialize will develop in the coming years. in local foodways. Trevor writes Hawthorne now offers two breweries and Maggie takes photos. Their right across the street from each other: combined experience has seen them Common Space and Los Angeles Ale organizing beer festivals, designing Works. It’s not quite enough for a beer beverage menus, and exploring some walk, but good for an abbreviated of Europe’s oldest breweries. Examples brewery crawl. of their work can be found at www. tandmworks.com. Phantom Ales - Savannah Sunset Photo Credit: Maggie Rosenberg

Raise a glass to the imperial beast

imperial

42705 8th St W. Lancaster, CA 93534 PAGE 12 JANUARY 2019 | Beer Paper

COVER STORY THE EL SEGUNDO KID by DANIEL DRENNON I first met Rob Croxall, the owner of DRENNON: Your boss at Northrop El Segundo Brewing, at a beer festival was a homebrewer. Is that how you on the Rock & Brews patio in 2011. It got into ? was a sunny summer day in the South Bay and I told Croxall his Citra Pale CROXALL: Pretty much. Sometime Ale was my favorite beer of the fest. around 2003 a buddy of mine gave me He seemed genuinely surprised. His a brand new kit he had never used. I brand new brewery was literally across had no idea what to do with it. As luck the street. would have it, the engineering director I was supporting was a homebrewer. Soon after, we met for lunch at The We talked more about beer than we Village Idiot on Melrose. Croxall was did about business. He literally had to there to deliver a keg and he looked up explain to me what are. In fact, at the tap list on the wall and asked the my very first brew was his recipe for manager which tap handle El Segundo a Pale Ale with Cascade and Pearle was getting. The answer was a local hops and Wyeast 1056. I still have brewery’s handle. Rob shook his head the recipe card as I do for every emphatically saying, “Absolutely not. beer I’ve ever brewed. So, under his Their owners helped me so much and tutelage and by re-reading and re- are friends.” reading Charlie Papazian’s book I got my homebrewing feet under me. The competition for tap handles at From then until ESBC opened, I was beer bars that rotate was fierce and is homebrewing pretty much weekly. more so now with over 900 California breweries. I was impressed by DRENNON: When and how did you Croxall’s loyalty…and integrity. decide to open El Segundo Brewing? Rob has been the President of the CROXALL: I truly had an epiphany. Los Angeles County Brewers Guild I was in a good place career-wise, and serves on the board now. He is a working with the CFO and finance former athlete and thus a competitor. directors of the company I was at and But he does not value winning over would regularly operate in that circle. doing what is right. One day I was sitting in the CFO staff meeting thinking to myself that my Croxall is, first and foremost, a family Rob Croxall, owner of El Segundo Brewing Photo Credit: Eli Buck next job and every future job would man. He coaches his daughter’s be one of the jobs of the people in that softball team. He surfs with his son. almost Midwest-type town except you keep motivation. How many high room. When I looked around the room, Sure. He is a business man. But can surf. I was lucky enough to be school kids get to practice with (Hall I realized I didn’t want any of those in a business where camaraderie part of the huge baseball legacy of the of Fame) George Brett? When I wasn’t jobs…. So, with a new mindset, I is beginning to fray around the town, which certainly had a significant playing baseball, I was at the beach took a career derailing, easy job to buy edges as profit margins dwindle impact on where I went to school (Cal living the cliché California lifestyle. time to do my business plan. I applied with the big beer buy outs and their Poly SLO) and the direction my life It was a great, fun place to grow up. and was accepted to the Professional dubious distribution practices, along has gone since. I was lucky enough To this day I am still doing the same Brewers Program at UC Davis, the proliferation of other small to play baseball at the college and things, either on the diamond coaching secured backing (yes, mostly help independent breweries opening and professional level and had no idea that my daughter in softball or at the beach from my parents), and started getting slicing the pie thinner and thinner, that was actually preparation for real with my son. to know people in the business, most Croxall is a role model who other life. Dealing with success, dealing importantly Tom Kelley. brewery owners should look to as an with failure, perseverance, dealing DRENNON: What was your career example. with different people from different before beer? In November of 2010, my company backgrounds, and depending on a was going to require me to lay off DRENNON: Where were you born CROXALL: I was in Finance and team are all things that are directly some of my staff. I told my boss that and raised and how did it form you Business Management for several applicable to running a small business. I was going to brewing school and into who you are now? major aerospace companies for 13 leaving the company and that she DRENNON: What were you into? years before opening ESBC. I was CROXALL: I was born in and raised should lay me off instead. So, I got laid never very happy in that field and I off, got a check to walk out the door, in El Segundo, literally seven blocks CROXALL: Baseball and the beach. don’t think I would have loved any from the brewery. My wife Amy also and went to UC Davis Professional Baseball was huge for myself and traditional company/desk job. It just Brewers Program in early 2011. We grew up in El Segundo and my parents my friends. We had several big- took me 13 years to do something still live here after 50-something years. opened the doors of ESBC in May of leaguers come from our high school about it. 2011. There were a handful of brew El Segundo is a small, down-to earth, program so it was easy to find and Beer Paper | JANUARY 2019 PAGE 13 around at the time including Wolf Creek, now, but we didn’t start this as friends. So early on Ladyface, and Red Car. There were only a few no one felt the need to hold back for fear of hurting packaging breweries in LA: Craftsman, Angel City, someone’s feelings. Honest communication, even if Eagle Rock, and Strand. It was a fun time. I had no you don’t want to hear it, is what makes you better. idea how little I really knew. DRENNON: Your brother Dan has an interesting DRENNON: How and where did you meet Tom position in craft beer. Tell us about that. Kelley and tell us about his contribution to ESBC? CROXALL: Yeah, my brother is a lawyer who CROXALL: Sometime around 2010, my dad and I started with a huge, international firm then opened invested in Library Alehouse and we would frequent his own practice. When we were opening ESBC, I it as often as we could. We got to know the GM, started asking him all kinds of brewery specific legal Tom Kelley, who was a Cicerone and knew volumes questions. He came to the realization that that legal about beer and about the developing LA market. resources for breweries are pretty limited. So, after a After tasting a couple of my beers and getting to few years representing breweries and other alcohol know us, he eventually agreed to come on board as producers, he made a pitch to McGeorge School what I would call Director of Sales, or what he calls of Law, which was where he went to law school, “Rain Maker”. That does sum him up very well. about a craft beer law program. They bought the To say Tom is confident is an understatement, but idea and his first class filled up immediately. Today he has the substance to back it up. I can honestly he is teaching the only craft beer law courses in the say that ESBC would be far from the company it is country. today without Tom’s input, insight, and straight up hard work. He has a sales team of himself plus 2.5 DRENNON: You have somewhat remarkably had people. around a dozen different brewers over your eight years as a brewery. How do you maintain quality Per the Brewer’s Association numbers, we produced and consistency? more beer than any independent in LA in 2017 and the prior three years. All of that was moved by Tom CROXALL: That’s funny you ask. I feel as though and his tiny sales team. His contributions are far we’ve had a couple ups and downs as the brew beyond just sales. He is key on the vision of the staff has changed over time. We absolutely strive company, where the market is going, and what is for quality and repeatability. In the first few years the strategy. We really work well together and have it was actually easier in one sense. I was brewing a great division of responsibilities. I handle the and packaging. Tom would sell and help on sensory production side and the finance side. Tom handles and style. It was a very closed loop. Today we have the public side of things, sales, and marketing. It is three brewers and two cellarmen, so there is always the vision and strategy side where we work closest. the vulnerability to human variation. It is a great working relationship. We are friends (THE EL SEGUNDO KID continued on page 14)

Rob Croxall stabbing Tom Kelley Photo Credit: Eli Buck PAGE 14 JANUARY 2019 | Beer Paper

(THE EL SEGUNDO KID continued) beginning. We seldom find ourselves with flawed beer these days, but we Logan Smith, my lead brewer for the did just dump a batch of Mayberry IPA last two years, is key to our continual we were not happy with in November. quality and is much more a scientist I firmly believe that decisions like that that I am. He gets my beer, and that are what maintain the perception for Rob Croxall and Logan Smith at Hop Selection Photo Credit: ESBC is not something that is automatic quality we have in the market. with different brewers. He is always DRENNON: What do you consider sense I think the biggest success is conducting small experiments and DRENNON: Do you have a brewing your biggest successes so far? the community we have built in El coming up with new process ideas. philosophy? Segundo. We have 29 staff members CROXALL: The easy answer is the My simple original batch card has who we treat like family and we have handful of wins that we have had at evolved to two pages of notes and CROXALL: Quality above all else developed a beyond-loyal customer the Bistro Double IPA Festival over measurements on every batch brewed. and brew the beer that I want to drink. base of craft beer fans that did not exist the past several years. I see this as We conduct panels and keep notes on The quality is self-explanatory, but in El Segundo before. I still get blown the most specific competition for every batch that leaves the brewery the brewing beer I want to drink really away sometimes when I come into the beers in our West Coast style against and will make the hard decision helps keep direction. We have dabbled taproom and see people enjoying our what I consider to be a list of the best when we have to. Fortunately, some in styles that I do not like much, beer and being part of this community. breweries in the country. To even although maybe not obvious to the such as the hazy IPA, but our strength That is what all of this is about in the be included with those breweries is casual customer, I have seen quality is doing West Coast and doing it well end. humbling. But in a more personal improving consistently since the so we stick to our guns there. DRENNON: Many are saying that the long talked about “bubble bursting” for the incredible growth of craft beer over the past ten years is finally here. What are your assessments as a former finance guy? CROXALL: We are certainly already in a new phase in this industry. We are seeing acquisition of formerly pure independent breweries by investment groups, we are seeing congestion at the tap handles, we are seeing overload on shelves, and we have seen the hijacking and devaluation of the term “craft” by Big Beer. Unfortunately, I believe that the “independent” angle is also losing its impact and the regular customer is tuning out that message. It is getting tougher in the distribution arena and I believe that over time we will see many independent breweries pull out of the distribution game altogether. The fact is that with the death of the 22-ounce bomber and the associated high margin, the profitability of a small brewery in distribution is peanuts, if they are even profitable at all.

ESBC tap room Photo Credit: Eli Buck Beer Paper | JANUARY 2019 PAGE 15

Rob Croxall Photo Credit: Eli Buck The Big Beer strategy of purchasing a formerly DRENNON: You’re on the verge of opening “Slice overarching theme we are proceeding under is to independent brewery and then dumping their beer and Pint” in El Segundo. What prompted that rely less on distribution and focus on retail, where in the market at prices they know small breweries move? we interact directly with our guests and are more in can’t come close to is highly effective. They are able control of our own destiny. That is not to say we are to keep the prices the market will bear low and will CROXALL: I realize that my assessment of the pulling out of distribution. That’s not the case at all. weed out most small independents from distribution market sounds all doom-and gloom but I don’t We are just moving forward with our eyes open to over time. Taprooms are the more certain future necessarily see it that way. I see it as an opportunity what is going on around us and using a traditional and I see the true independents becoming more and to create strategy while understanding what the approach of broadening the portfolio. more localized as the more commercial breweries hurdles are. We most certainly have been adjusting will conglomerate. But even here locally focused strategy over the years and our volley into the DRENNON: Where do you see ESBC in ten years? breweries are vulnerable as long as breweries keep restaurant game is part of that. The Slice & Pint is our pizza restaurant under the ESBC banner and will CROXALL: Still independent and making quality opening on top of each other, making each piece of beer. the pie smaller and smaller. “Build it and they will be located about one block away from the brewery. come” or “the more the merrier” are pure fantasy When we open in January, we will feature hand DRENNON: If you had to describe yourself in one unless one of the breweries is a major player with tossed pizzas, locally sourced greens, ESBC beer, word or phrase, what would it be? a major draw. I hope that owners of breweries in guest taps, and wine. The restaurant will operate planning understand that because, if they don’t, they under the same philosophies as the brewery: quality, CROXALL: Very lucky and very fortunate. are the ones that will learn the hard way. freshness and, most importantly, community. The PAGE 16 JANUARY 2019 | Beer Paper

YAEGER SHOTS WINTER WARMERS! WHAT’S WINTER? by BRIAN YAEGER Fun fact: from Ana to Ynez, there are is Hopworks Urban Brewery’s a dozen Santa cities in California. Abominable Winter Ale, a 7.3% IPA You’d think, or at least hope, that built on Munich and caramel . in a city with the word Santa in it, Then there’s Laurelwood’s Vinter Santa Barbara brewers would have Varmer. It’s a with nary a developed something of a Christmas hint of egg nog or cranberry bog. beer tradition, even if winter is just something we see on other people’s Here in the American Riviera, where Facebook pages. Down in Carpinteria, winter simply means larger swells for where there’s Santa Claus Lane, surfing and a cold spell is anytime how do none of the three breweries the thermometer dips below 65, my celebrate this via a seasonal recipe? favorite beer trend, if we can call it This isn’t to suggest that the dozen that, is what I shall call “the whack and breweries in the greater SB area—or unwrap.” five dozen including all the ones Whack & Unwrap from Ventura to Paso Robles—brew wassails and winter warmers meant Y’know those confections that come to put meat on the bones of people out in December that are foil-wrapped suffering through arctic temps. The spheres of chocolate designed to closest thing Santa Barbara will whack against a table and in doing so, ever have to a polar vortex is a can once you unwrap it, you’re treated to of Captain Fatty’s Vortex IPA if wedges designed to look like orange someone foolishly chilled it down in slices? Orange and chocolate is a their freezer. But still, it’s a craft beer wondrous love-hate flavor combo tradition to honor the seasons via beer. (I’m on Team Chocolate-Orange, but I know I’m in the slight minority). Santa When I lived in Portland, most Barbara now brews three, count ‘em breweries had a winter release and three beers bursting with cacao and Feliz Nibs & Orange collaboration they didn’t need to taste like reindeers citrus. It truly is the most wonderful Photo Credit: Kevin Lara, courtesy Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co. romping through satchels of mulling time of the year. Or not. from the brewery’s neighbor, Twenty- Crooks, to create Feliz Nibs & Orange spices or sipping by a Four Blackbirds, plus Madagascar (5.7%). Unlike the chocolaty beers fireplace atop the Matterhorn. They One of the three beers, dating only as vanilla beans and a bunch of oranges with an orangy kick, this is a wild ale have the Holiday Ale Fest that takes far back as 2016, is Third Window’s foraged from customers’ yards. with oranges so it’s already tart and over the entire square in the center Walkabout. It’s not necessarily a citrusy, then dry hopped with cacao of town that, yes, does offer a glut of holiday beer, but I hold onto at least The second such beer is a new release nibs making the end result more like barrel-aged spice bombs, but perhaps one bottle until now. Walkabout is an from Telegraph. Established in 2006, getting chocolate in your orange the most celebrated wintry welcome 8.2% imperial stout with cacao nibs a year ago owner Brian Thompson instead of orange in your chocolate. sold it to Utah’s Epic Brewing. Epic, All three are out of this world. already highly regarded for their Big Bad Baptist, which is a bourbon-aged Giving 2019 110%. impy chocolate and coffee stout, “collaborated” with Telegraph on the Even if you’re going to give the new brand new Big Bad Baer. It’s a on year your all, giving one hundred Baptist, essentially taking the beer out percent still only gets you so far. To of whiskey barrels and then into port start the year off on the right foot, find barrels, then coming out at 13%. Yup, that extra ten percent (or more) with double-barreled, but built for sipping, these warmers that put those HotHands not . Also, the coffee hails pocket-furnaces to shame. from Santa Barbara’s premier roaster, Starting at the “low end” of double- Handlebar. And, as you guessed, it digit ABVs with this ten-percenter, welcomes an addition of orange peels. Third Window released With Best The third beer on this list is sort of a Wishes. They don’t release bottles that reverse image. Figueroa Mountain, often, but when they do, it’s a special based in Buellton but brewed by James occasion. With Best Wishes takes Parrish from their Arroyo Grande their winter brewed with ginger satellite brewery, collaborated with and orange peel and ages it in wine James Parrish (Figueroa Mountain) and Jim Crooks (Firestone Walker Barrelworks) Firestone Walker Barrelworks’ Jim puncheons. The result is like glühwein Photo Credit: Kevin Lara, courtesy Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co. or , but cold. And beer. Beer Paper | JANUARY 2019 PAGE 17 A flew blocks away on State Street, SB’s second- Finally, and fortuitously, Fig Mountain’s anniversary youngest brewery—Night Lizard—is itself only falls in late fall so during any cold we may months old but didn’t let that stop themselves suffer, we’d be well-served to go in for their 8th from releasing Grand Cru Vintage 2018. Calling Anniversary Ale, a 12.5% barleywine inspired and a beer a grand cru, from the French for “great cajoled by my favorite , an old fashioned, growth” and popularized as a way to connote superb so this warming beer proffers hints of brown , terroir, means it’s the brewers best expression. chocolate and a single maraschino cherry. Night Lizard’s brewer Chip Nasser fixed this elixir fermented with French saison from All in all, now that you’d need an advent calendar the Zenne Valley (known Stateside as the Senne with roughly 345 chocolates to get you through next Valley, where comes from). The result is Christmas, Southern Californians can be forgiven for not remotely lambicky or sour, yet rather akin to a forgetting that December 23 marks the beginning of Belgian strong golden with a pretty great phenolic wintertime, but it’s still fun to pour beers like those hit and a finish that says apples’n’honey making poor saps in all states east of here. So pack your 3/2 this a great bottle to buy this year and give next wetsuits, or even a 4/3 if you want to dress like it’s Hannukah. Incidentally, start your verticals from the a real winter, and surf up the coast to explore the get-go since Grand Cru Vintage 2019 will contain a wonderland that is Santa Barbara in January. component of 2018, and so and so forth. Brian Yaeger is the author of Red, White, and Brew Up in Goleta at M. Special, there’s nothing stranger and contributed to the Oxford Companion to Beer. If than their Barrel-Aged Demogorgon. This Russki he’s not writing for beer publications he’s planning GRANGE HALL 39 imperial stout abounds with rich dried fruit and beer festivals. Along with his wife and son (I.P.Yae.) he recently moved to (and is learning to surf in) dark-roasted coffee. At 10.5%, it may not keep the 2,718 SF • FOOD HALL ANCHOR OPPORTUNITY Kremlin out of the White House or your Facebook, Santa Barbara. Buena Park Downtown but it’ll have you Putin on the Ritz.

PLAZA DEL OBISPO

1,100-1,720 SF • RESTAURANT OPPORTUNITY San Juan Capistrano

DOHENY PARK VILLAGE CENTER

2,692-4,311 SF • RESTAURANT OPPORTUNITY Capistrano Beach

SVNVANGUARD.COM 714.446.0600

James Parrish (Figueroa Mountain) and Jim Crooks (Firestone Walker Barrelworks) Photo Credit: Kevin Lara, courtesy Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co. PAGE 18 JANUARY 2019 | Beer Paper

HAZE CRAZE ISO FRESH HOPS by TIM CRIST The Fat Man drops down the chimney with gifts. “Release Information” on the brewery’s web page The ball drops in Times Square on New Year’s Eve. (it doesn’t get any more straight forward than that!). And if you’re a connoisseur of hops there’s only one While you’re there, take a look at the brewery hours; drop that should concern you: your local brewery’s that way you’ll be first in line while the rest of your next high quality, limited quantity, one of a kind crew is still scrolling through Instagram. drop. Liquid gold for some, my favorite drops these days are coming from Monkish. This brewery has Once you have determined what day the brewery is some of the freshest, most flavorful haze one can dropping their beer, Get There. And fast. Because regularly enjoy. New to the scene and want to know some days you await the sweet slice of green in neat, how to catch these limited edition drops? Look no monitored, ID’d, and braceleted lines. Gotta work? further than your smartphone for your initiation into Call in sick. Did you have plans? Cancel them. First the scene that epitomizes the benefits of local, craft, child being born? Maybe go to that, yeah, probably folk, art, culture; beer. go to that. But for the rest of you, the juice is worth the squeeze my friends. Artisanal brew’s like triples Being in the know for craft beer drops is the only and collaborations will go faster than others. The surefire way to get your hands on exclusive brews allotment for those who patiently wait is a few select that sell in minutes! Check Twitter and Instagram for four-packs of deliciously canned goodness. those posh pics of artful cans and heady pours. For Monkish beer, release posts usually occur between For me personally, it’s ideal to get there before the Tuesday and Thursday after 2:30pm but things can drop. Parking is better. I get the beer quicker. Traffic get tricky. Friday drops happen too, usually at noon is milder. And now I got time to meander. Until the sharp right before the brewery opens. Saturday drops drop happens, I am talking beers with those around are the hardest to catch; keep your head in the game, me and the latest in the brewery scene. Pay attention concentrate, and shake off those Friday brews. Be to the rules on line sharing. Line sharing is almost savvy. Start your mornings off right by checking the non-existent at Monkish due to the chance of getting

Can release at Monkish Photo Credit: IPA Tim IPA Tim in line at Monkish Photo Credit: IPA Tim Beer Paper | JANUARY 2019 PAGE 19 banned. And that just wouldn’t be can release post. You raced to make worth it. Most other breweries that it there, chatted up those around have can releases with a line will have you, maybe grabbed some food. You some line shares going on. And that is kept track of your place in line, and super fun. If I show up after a drop, I purchased your own cans of liquid get in line and get my ID scanned and gold. Monkish beer. To me the most numbered wristband put on. It’s time flavorful, delicious, fresh haze around. to socialize. Here’s where local, micro, And now it’s your turn to enjoy this craft, folk, culture beats anything on great beer with friends, after work, on social media: talk to those around you. your day off, on the day your first child is born. You could also use the cans Everybody in line is there for the you’ve purchased to make trades for drop. Everybody in line has a other limited brewery releases. This common passion. Everybody in line could allow you to try craft beer from has a common hobby: local craft all around and the world. beer. Sometimes I get a bite to eat But that story will come next month. from a food truck or, by Monkish, #micDROP “Fantastics.” The whole time I’m keeping track of the line and my Tim Crist a.k.a IPA Tim has been place in it. IF, on the rare occasion, I working in L.A. food service the last get skunked...then I always have my fifteen years. Today, he’s driven by the cooler ready for some growler fills. query: “What is good beer?,” and he’s Gotta get that freshie. been experiencing craft beers ever since. Can releases and limited bottle Here’s what success looks like: You’ve sales are his forte. He can be seen at checked to see if there was going to Monkish Brewing where he enjoys be any releases for the week starting trading and enjoying beers from coast Monday and throughout the week. to coast. You’ve stayed on the lookout for the

IPA Tim at Monkish Photo Credit: IPA Tim

Monkish LA Hat Photo Credit: IPA Tim PAGE 20 JANUARY 2019 | Beer Paper

FOOD PAIRINGS BEER PAIRINGS IN ACTION: FIRESTONE WALKER PROPAGATOR BEER DINNER by TREVOR HAGSTROM Because brewers may use fermentables sour beers produce. It was paired with besides grain, smoke their malts, an arugula salad with pickled grapes or add all kinds of herbs and spices and brûléed citrus. Chef Justin Lewis to their kettle, beer can be flavored created a salad to match the split very deliberately. While wine may be personality of the hybrid brew. The smoky or spicy in certain ways, it is arugula matched the beer half, never as explicitly flavored as beer. and fruit in the salad played against the The flavors that grapes develop may wine half of the wine/beer. change with vintage variation and aren’t easy to control. This means The next course showcased another a brewer and a chef can coordinate one of the Propagator’s original recipes for pairing in a way that a beers, MH2, a hazy IPA, paired with winemaker would be unable to do. yellowtail crudo. The citrus aromas of the beer were a natural match for the There are also broader tastes available fish, and the pairing also thoughtfully in beer. Most wine exists on a navigated a common challenge spectrum between sweet and acidic. when pairing beers. Beer styles with Beer, on the other hand, may be aggressive hop bitterness, like IPA, bitter, acidic, sweet or even slightly are notoriously challenging to pair Cheers to Evan Partridge Photo Credit: Maggie Rosenberg salty. Beer also has wide variations with food. Hops can easily overpower in gravity, it may be barely thinner delicate flavors. The creamy texture Chefs and winemakers have long The answer, of course, isn’t wine at than water when a cleansing texture of the yeasty hazy IPA helped to mute collaborated to create multi-course all, but beer. Beer fills those gaps in is desired, or thick and sharp when some astringency and allowed for a meals that showcase how food and wine pairing, but it also should be seen necessary. This allows a progressive successful pairing. wine improve each other. When tasted as a suitable alternative to wine for beer pairing dinner to match with together, good food and beverages dishes that are usually considered wine everything from salad to dessert. The next course matched the Firestone are much more than the sum of their friendly. This is the way the seven-course Walker Lager with pork-based ramen. parts. Their combined forces equal extravaganza at the Firestone Walker Ice-cold, chuggable beer with hot soup Wine directors approach pairings by new flavors that a dish or drink Propagator Restaurant began and is always a winning match. This was first considering a wine’s acidity and cannot achieve alone. When brewers ended. particularly successful because their and chefs collaborate, the pairings astringency (from tannin). Beer too lager is quite dry, lacking the sweet- have the potential to be much more offers varying astringency, whether The meal started with RB3 “Beer character of Bavarian styles, and adventurous. While multi-course wine from hop bitterness or the charred Rosé,” a beer/wine hybrid from the so it was particularly refreshing against pairing dinners are common, beer finish on a dark stout or . Propagator’s pilot brewery. Host and a salty pork broth. dinners are a much wilder ride. Recently, more brewers have added brewhouse manager, Evan Partridge, acidic beers to their line-ups, allowing explained that this beer made use of Foie gras, the fatted liver of a duck, For one, beer is more versatile than beer to stand in for wine in more the juice from eight Central Coast is a favorite ingredient for high-end wine. Sommeliers often try challenge pairing applications. Rich foods that white grape varieties. The resulting wine tasting menus on both sides of themselves to dream up the right require some acidity to cut through the beer had a soft fruit acidity, rather than (PROPAGATOR BEER DINNER wine to go with deep-fried pub grub fat now have many pairing the sharp tartness that lactic or aged favorites or umami-rich Asian dishes. options. continued on page 22)

Hazy IPA with Crudo Photo Credit: Maggie Rosenberg Beer Paper | JANUARY 2019 PAGE 21 FEATURED LISTINGS

6th & La Brea Brewery & Cismontane Brewing Company Riley’s Restaurant 1409 E Warner Suite C, Santa Ana 5331 E 2nd St, Long Beach 600 S. La Brea Ave, Los Angeles cismontanebrewing.com rileyson2nd.com 6thlabrea.com Claremont Craft Ales Skyland Ale Works Absolution Brewing 1420 N Claremont Blvd #204c, Claremont 1869 Pomona Road E & F, Corona 2878 Columbia St, Torrance claremontcraftales.com skylandaleworks.com absolutionbrewingcompany.com Common Space Brewing Smog City - Steelcraft Angel City 3411 W El Segundo Blvd, Hawthorne 3768 Long Beach Boulevard #110, 216 S. Alameda St, Los Angeles commonspace.la Long Beach angelcitybrewing.com steelcraftlb.com/smog-city-brewing El Segundo Brewing Angry Horse Brewing 140 Main St, El Segundo Smog City Brewing 603 W Whittier Blvd, Montebello elsegundobrewing.com 1901 Del Amo Blvd, Torrance angryhorsebrewing.com smogcitybrewing.com Farmers Market Bar 326 Barbara’s at the Brewery 6333 W 3rd St., Los Angeles The Stalking Horse Brewery & 620 Moulton Ave #110, Los Angeles fmbars.com Freehouse barbarasatthebrewery.com 10543 Pico Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90064 Figueroa Mountain Brewing - thestalkinghorsepub.com Beachwood Brewing Westlake Village 7631 Woodwind Dr, Huntington Beach 30770 Russell Ranch Rd, State Brewing Company beachwoodbbq.com Westlake Village 1237 W 134th St, Gardena FigMtnBrew.com facebook.com/statebrewingco Beachwood BBQ & Brewing 210 E 3rd St, Long Beach Firestone Walker - Strand Brewing beachwoodbbq.com The Propagator 2201 Dominguez St, Torrance 3205 Washington Blvd, Marina Del Rey strandbrewing.com Beachwood Blendery firestonebeer.com 247 N Long Beach Blvd, Long Beach Timeless Pints beachwoodbbq.com HopSaint Brewing Company 3671 Industry Ave C1, Lakewood 5160 W 190th St, Torrance timelesspints.com Beachwood BBQ hopsaint.com 131 ½ Main St, Seal Beach Trustworthy Brewing beachwoodbbq.com Ironfire Brewing Co. 156 W Verdugo Ave, Burbank 42095 Zevo Dr Suite #1, Temecula trustworthybrewingco.com Bluebird Brasserie Brewery & ironfirebrewing.com Eatery Unsung Brewing Co. 13730 Ventura Blvd, Sherman Oaks Liberation Brewing 500 S Anaheim Blvd, Anaheim bluebirdbrasserie.com 3630 Atlantic Ave, Long Beach unsungbrewing.com liberationbrewing.com Brew Kitchen Ale House Ximix Craft Exploration 10708 Los Alamitos Blvd, Los Alamitos MacLeod Brewing 13723 1/2 Harvard Pl, Gardena brewkitchenalehouse.com 14741 Calvert St, Van Nuys ximixcraft.com macleodale.com Brewyard Beer Company Zymurgy Brew Works & Tasting 906 Western Ave, Glendale Mikkeller Room brewyardbeercompany.com 330 W Olympic Blvd, Los Angeles 22755 Hawthorne Blvd, Torrance mikkellerbar.com/la zymurgybrewworks.com Chapman Crafted Beer 123 N Cypress St, Old Towne Orange Naja’s Place chapmancrafted.beer 154 International Boardwalk, Redondo Beach najasplace.com PAGE 22 JANUARY 2019 | Beer Paper

(PROPAGATOR BEER DINNER continued) the Atlantic. Typically this rich delicacy is paired with sweet wines or very fruity whites. BREWERY To meet the challenge of pairing the dish with Frogtown Brewery beer, it was matched with a unique beer from LOS ANGELES 2931 Gilroy St, Los Angeles Firestone Walker’s Barrelworks Brewery. The COUNTY frogtownbrewery.com Capt. Franc made use of Santa Barbara County Highland Park Brewery Cabernet Franc grapes and was made use of BREWERIES 5127 York Blvd, Los Angeles hpb.la wine barrels. The resulting beer was complex Absolution Brewing Company with a nose of brett yeast and a balanced 2878 Columbia St, Torrance Homage Brewing tartness in the finish. The pairing pushed the absolutionbrewingcompany.com 281 S Thomas St #101, Pomona capabilities of beer pairing to the limit. If the homagebrewing.com Foie Gras with Captain Franc Alosta Brewing butter foie gras needed a little more acidity 692 Arrow Grand Cir, Covina Indie Brewing Co. than the beer offered, charred wine grapes were alostabrewing.com 2350 Sunrise St, Los Angeles indiebrewco.com served as garnish. Angel City Brewery 216 S. Alameda St, Los Angeles Iron Triangle Brewing Company An intermezzo of salami and cheese came angelcitybrewing.com 1581 Industrial St, Los Angeles www.irontrianglebrewing.com next, which was thoughtfully matched with the Angry Horse Brewing Walker’s Reserve Robust . The dark beer 603 W. Whittier Blvd, Montebello King Harbor Brewing Company had enough roasted malt astringency to stand angryhorsebrewing.com 2907 182nd St, Redondo Beach kingharborbrewing.com in for . With the pork rib entree that Arrow Lodge Brewing came, a heartier porter was served, the Fireside 720 E. Arrow Hwy, Unit C, Covina King Harbor Waterfront Tasting Wookie. The beer was infused with vanilla arrowlodgebrew.com Room in the brewery, but The Propagator added an 132 International Boardwalk, Arts District Brewing Redondo Beach extra layer of flavor by adding smoke to the 828 Traction Ave, Los Angeles beer before serving. The smoke was held in Walker’s Reserve Robust Porter & Cheese Course artsdistrictbrewing.com Long Beach Beer Lab the glass by a coaster and wafted up when it 518 W Willow St, Long Beach Boomtown Brewery lbbeer.com was served. The brash smoke and sweet vanilla 700 Jackson St, Los Angeles were the kind of bold flavors that a glazed, boomtownbrew.com Los Angeles Ale Works 12918 Cerise Ave, Hawthorne barbecued pork needs. Matching BBQ with Bravery Brewing laaleworks.com always wine tastes forced, it’s really a job for 42705 8th St W, Lancaster beer. braverybrewing.com La Verne Brewing 2125 Wright Ave, La Verne Brewyard Beer Company lavernebrewingco.com Dessert brought out a pour of the much 906 Western Ave, Glendale anticipated 2018 Parabajava, Firestone brewyardbeercompany.com Lucky Luke Brewing Walker’s annual celebratory imperial coffee 610 W Ave O #104, Palmdale Brouwerij West luckylukebrewing.com stout aged for one year in Bourbon barrels. 110 E 22nd St, San Pedro This thick, complex beer was a dessert in of www.brouwerijwest.com MacLeod Ale Brewing itself and complemented the coffee cake that Claremont Craft Ales 14741 Calvert St, Van Nuys Fireside Wookie (infused with smoke) 1420 N Claremont Blvd #204C, macleodale.com was served. When you’re serving a beer that is Claremont so very bold, a simple uniced cinnamon cake claremontcraftales.com Monkish Brewing Co. is the right move. The jolt of coffee in the beer 20311 S Western Ave, Torrance Clayton Brewing Company monkishbrewing.com gave exhausted palates and minds a boost. It 661 W Arrow Hwy, San Dimas also allowed us to forego our customary after- claytonbrewingco.com Mt. Lowe Brewing dinner coffee and whiskey. It was already in the 150 E St Joseph St, Arcadia Common Space Brewery mtlowebrewing.com beer. 3411 W El Segundo Blvd, Hawthorne commonspace.la Mumford Brewing Chef and brewer guided beer dinners are 416 Boyd St, Los Angeles Craftsman Brewing Co. mumfordbrewing.com pushing the boundaries of how beer can 1270 Lincoln Ave #800, Pasadena be used in dining. Beverage directors have craftsmanbrewing.com Ohana Brewing Company gradually begun to make room for more beer in 1756 E 23rd St, Los Angeles Dry River Brewing ohanabrew.com their cellars to explore the pairing possibilities 671 S Anderson St, Los Angeles that get tested and proven by pioneering chef- Parabajava and Coffee Cake www.dryriverbrewing.com Pacific Plate Brewing brewer collaborators like Evan Partridge and 1999 S Myrtle Ave, Monrovia Eagle Rock Brewery pacificplatebrewing.com Chef Justin Lewis. We look forward to seeing 3056 Roswell St, Los Angeles more brewpubs develop collaborative flavors eaglerockbrewery.com Phantom Carriage Brewing from both their kitchens and breweries. 18525 S Main St, Carson El Segundo Brewing Company phantomcarriage.com 140 Main St, El Segundo Trevor Hagstrom and Maggie Rosenberg are elsegundobrewing.com Pocock Brewing Company food, beverage, and travel content creators 24907 Tibbitts Ave, Santa Clarita Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co pocockbrewing.com who specialize in local foodways. Trevor writes 30770 Russell Ranch Rd, Westlake and Maggie takes photos. Their combined Village Progress Brewing experience has seen them organizing beer FigMtnBrew.com 1822 Chico Ave, South El Monte progress-brewing.com festivals, designing beverage menus, and Five Threads Brewing Company exploring some of Europe’s oldest breweries. 1133 Via Colinas #109, Westlake REV Brewing Village Examples of their work can be found at www. Can Cheers 1580 W San Bernardino Ave, Ste H & fivethreadsbrewing.com tandmworks.com. I, Covina All Photos by Maggie Rosenberg revbrewingco.com Beer Paper | JANUARY 2019 PAGE 23

Bootlegger’s Brewery Unsung Brewing Company Hangar 24 Brewery 130 S Highland Ave, Fullerton 500 S Anaheim Blvd, Anaheim 1710 Sessums Dr, Redlands DIRECTORY bootleggersbrewery.com unsungbrewing.com hangar24brewery.com Bottle Logic Brewing BREWPUBS Inland Empire Brewing Company Sanctum Brewing Company Congregation Ales 1072 N Armando St, Anaheim 1710 Palmyrita Ave #11, Riverside 560 E Commercial St #21, Pomona Azusa Brewpub Chapter bottlelogic.com Huntington Beach Beer Company iebrew.com sanctumbrewing.com 619 N Azusa Ave, Azusa 201 Main St, Huntington Beach congregationalehouse.com Chapman Crafted Beer hbbeerco.com Ironfire Brewing Co. San Fernando Brewing Company 123 N Cypress St, Old Towne Orange 42095 Zevo Dr #1, Temecula 425 Park Ave, San Fernando Downey Brewing Company chapmancrafted.beer Newport Beach Brewing Company ironfirebrewing.com sanfernandobrewingcompany.com 10924 Paramount Blvd, Downey 2920 Newport Blvd, Newport Beach thedowneybrewing.com Cismontane Brewing Co. Tasting newportbeachbrewingcompany.com Last Name Brewing Scholb Premium Ales Room 2120 Porterfield Way, Upland 2964 Columbia St, Torrance Firestone Walker - The Propagator 1409 E Warner Suite C, Santa Ana Ocean Avenue Brewery lastnamebrewing.com drinkscholb.com 3205 Washington Blvd, Marina Del cismontanebrewing.com 237 Ocean Ave, Laguna Beach Rey oceanbrewing.com La Quinta Brewing Co. Santa Monica Brew Works firestonebeer.com/visit/venice.php Docent Brewing 77917 Wildcat Dr, Palm Desert 1920 Colorado Ave, Santa Monica 33049 Calle Aviador Suite C, San Juan Pizza Port San Clemente laquintabrewing.com santamonicabrewworks.com HopSaint Brewing Company Capistrano 301 N El Camino Real, San Clemente 5160 W 190th St, Torrance docentbrewing.com pizzaport.com No Clue Brewing Smog City Brewing Co. www.hopsaint.com 9037 #170 Arrow Rt, Rancho 1901 Del Amo Blvd #B, Torrance Evans Brewing Stadium Brewing Cucamonga smogcitybrewing.com Innovation Brew Works 2000 Main St, Irvine 26738 Aliso Creek Rd, Aliso Viejo nocluebrew.com 3650 W Temple Ave, Pomona evanslager.com stadiumbrewing.com Smog City Steelcraft ibrewworks.com Old Stump Brewing Co. 3768 Long Beach Blvd, Long Beach Four Sons Brewing TAPS Fish House & Brewery 2896 Metropolitan Pl, Pomona steelcraftlb.com Karl Strauss Brewing Company 18421 Gothard St, Huntington Beach 101 E Imperial Hwy, Brea oldstumpbrewery.com 600 Wilshire Blvd Ste 100, Los Angeles foursonsbrewing.com tapsfishhouse.com State Brewing Co. www.karlstrauss.com Packinghouse Brewing Co. 1237 W 134th St, Gardena Green Cheek Beer Company TAPS Fish House & Brewery 6421 Central Ave #101-A, Riverside statebrewingco.com Kinetic Brewing Company 2294 N Batavia St #C, Orange 13390 Jamboree Rd, Irvine pbbeer.com 735 W Lancaster Blvd, Lancaster greencheekbeer.com tapsfishhouse.com Strand Brewing Co kineticbrewing.com Refuge Brewery 2201 Dominguez St, Torrance Gunwhale Ales Tustin Brewing Company 43040 Rancho Way, Temecula strandbrewing.com Ladyface Ale Companie 2960 Randolph Ave a, Costa Mesa 13011 Newport Ave #100, Tustin refugebrew.com 29281 Agoura Rd, Agoura Hills gunwhaleales.com tustinbrewery.com Ten Mile Brewing ladyfaceale.com Ritual Brewing Co. 1136 E Willow St, Signal Hill Hoparazzi Brewing Co. INLAND 1315 Research Dr, Redlands tenmilebrewing.com Red Car Brewery and Restaurant 2910 E La Palma Ave, Anaheim ritualbrewing.com 1266 Sartori Ave, Torrance EMPIRE The Dudes’ Brewing Company redcarbrewery.com Laguna Beach Beer Co Rök House Brewing Company 29851 Aventura Ste C-E, Rancho Santa 1939 W 11th St #A, Upland 1840 W 208th St, Torrance BREWERIES thedudesbrew.com Rock Bottom Restaurant and Brewery Margarita rokhousebrewing.com lagunabeer.com 1 Pine Ave, Long Beach Area 51 Craft Brewery Skyland Ale Works Timeless Pints rockbottom.com 7123 Arlington Ave #A, Riverside Left Coast Brewing Company 1869 Pomona Rd Unit E/F, Corona 3671 Industry Ave, Lakewood Area51craftbrewery.com 1245 Puerta Del Sol, San Clemente skylandaleworks.com timelesspints.com San Pedro Brewing Company leftcoastbrewing.com 331 W 6th St, San Pedro Black Market Brewing Co. Solorio Brewing Company Three Weavers Brewing Co. sanpedrobrewing.com 41740 Enterprise Cir N #109, Temecula Lost Winds Brewing Company 9395 Feron Blvd Suite K, Rancho 1031 W Manchester Blvd Unit A-B, blackmarketbrew.com 924 Calle Negocio Suite C, San Cucamonga Inglewood The Lab Brewing Co. Clemente lostwindsbrewing.com soloriobrewing.com threeweavers.la 30105 Agoura Rd, Agoura Hills Brew Crew Inc. labbrewingco.com 11626 Sterling Ave #G, Riverside Network Brewery Sour Cellars Brewery Transplants Brewing Company brewcrewinc.com 824 Carnegie Ave, Santa Ana 9495 E 9th St Unit B, Rancho 40242 La Quinta Ln Unit 101, Palmdale Wolf Creek Restaurant & Brewing networkbrewery.com Cucamonga transplantsbrewing.com 27746 McBean Pkwy, Santa Clarita Brew Rebellion Brewing www.sourcellars.com wolfcreekbrewing.com 13444 California St, Yucaipa Noble Ale Works Verdugo West Brewing Co. brewrebellion.com 1621 S Sinclair St #B, Anaheim Stone Church Brewing 156 W Verdugo Ave, Burbank noblealeworks.com 2785 Cabot Dr Suite 160, Corona verdugowestbrewing.com Chino Valley Brewery ORANGE stonechurchbrewing.com 1630 E Francis St #J, Ontario Old Orange Brewing Co. Yorkshire Square Brewery COUNTY chinovalleybrewery.com 1109 Van Ness Ave, Torrance 1444 N Batavia St, Orange Strum Brewing oldorangebrewing.com 235 S Campus Ave, Ontario yorkshiresquarebrewery.com Coachella Valley Brewing Co. BREWERIES www.strumbrewing.com 30-640 Gunther St, Thousand Palms Zymurgy Brew Works and Tasting Phantom Ales Anaheim Brewery cvbco.com Room 1211 Las Brisas St, Anaheim Thompson Brewing 336 S Anaheim Blvd, Anaheim phantomales.com 9900 Indiana Ave Suite 7, Riverside 22755 Hawthorne Blvd, Torrance Dragon’s Tale Brewery anaheimbrew.com thompson brewing.com zymurgybrewworks.com 8920 Vernon Ave #122, Montclair Riip Beer Company Artifex Brewing www.dragonstalebrewery.com BREWPUBS 17214 Pacific Coast Hwy, Huntington Wiens Brewing 919 Calle Amanacer, San Clemente Beach riipbeer.com 27941 Diaz Rd, Temecula Escape Craft Brewery artifexbrewing.com Wiensbrewing.com Beachwood BBQ & Brewing 721 Nevada St #401, Redlands 210 E 3rd St, Long Beach Stereo Brewing Asylum Brewing escapecraftbrewery.com beachwoodbbq.com 950 S Vía Rodeo, Placentia BREWPUBS 2970 La Palma, Suite D, Anaheim stereobrewing.com Euryale Brewing Co asylumbrewingcompany.com TAPS Fish House & Brewery Belmont Brewing Company 2060 Chicago Ave #A-17, Riverside 25 39th Pl, Long Beach The Bruery 2745 Lakeshore Dr, Corona Back Street Brewery euryalebrewing.com belmontbrewing.com 715 Dunn Way, Placentia tapsfishhouse.com 1884 S Santa Cruz St, Anaheim thebruery.com Garage Brewing Co backstreetbrew.com Wicks Brewing Company Bonaventure Brewing 29095 Old Towne Front St, Temecula 404 S Figueroa St #418, Los Angeles The Good Beer Co. 11620 Sterling Ave, Riverside Forge Brewing garagebrewco.com bonaventurebrewing.com 309 W 4th St, Santa Ana wicksbrewing.com 2957 Randolph Ave, Costa Mesa thegoodbeerco.com barleyforge.com Hamilton Family Brewery Brewery at Abigaile 9757 Seventh St #802, Rancho Towne Park Brewery 1301 Manhattan Ave, Hermosa Beach Cucamonga Beachwood Brewing Taproom 1566 W Lincoln Ave, Anaheim abigailerestaurant.com hamiltonfamilybrewery.com 7631 Woodwind Dr, Huntington Beach towneparkbrew.com