THE NATIONAL HERALD • a b www.thenationalherald.com May 19, 2007 2 TOURISM & REAL ESTATE THE NATIONAL HERALD, MAY 19, 2007 The National Herald Discover Cyprus’ mountain villages A weekly publication of the NATIONAL HERALD, INC. (ΕΘΝΙΚΟΣ ΚΗΡΥΞ), reporting the news and addressing By Jessica Stillman the issues of paramount interest Travelbite to the Greek American community of the United States of America.

Publisher-Editor yprus is known for its Antonis H. Diamataris beaches - the ener- Assistant to Publisher, Advertising getic club scene in Veta H. Diamataris Papadopoulos Agia Napa, or the sleepier feel of Pa- Special Section Managing Editor phos, with its rows of holiday villas Mark Frangos C perfect for pensioners eager to re- Production Manager tire in the sun. Chrysoula Karametros Go just fifty kilometers inland, however, to the villages of the Troo- 37-10 30th Street, dos mountains, and you will find LIC, NY 11101-2614 another Cyprus entirely, one better Tel: (718)784-5255, suited to travelers who have out- Fax: (718)472-0510, grown the party in Agia Napa but e-mail: are not quite ready for the staid [email protected] www.thenationalherald.com pace of Paphos. Democritou 1 and Academias Sts, BY FAR THE MOST practical , 10671, way to explore the mountains is by Tel: 011.30.210.3614.598, renting a car, though the narrow Fax: 011.30.210.3643.776, hair pins on the winding roads e-mail: [email protected] mean this is not for the timid. How- Subscriptions by mail: 1 year $59.85, ever, in return for your bravery you 6 months $29.95, 3 months $19.95, get a breath-taking hour-long dri- 1 month $9.95. ve, weaving through terraced vil- Home delivery NY, NJ, CT: 1 year $80.00, lages set amid pines and magnifi- 6 months $43.99, 3 months $29.99, 1 month $12.95. cent views, the air getting cooler as Home delivery New England States, you climb. Pennsylvania & Washington DC: There are hundreds of villages 1 year $99.00, 6 months $51.75, to explore, each with its own par- 3 months $37.45, 1 month $15.95 ticular local specialty, but for a base On line subscription: Non subscribers: 1 year $29.95, 1 month $3.95; of operations you can do no better Subscribers: 1 year $19.95, 1 month $1.95 than Kakopetria, about half way to the summit of the highest peak, Mount Olympus. Clinging to the mountain and cut through by the river Klaios, Kakopetria, offers a beautiful (and central) setting and some of the nicest accommodation in the area. Two of the best options are the Mill Hotel or Linos Inn.

AS THE NAME SUGGESTS, the date the hotel's 13 rooms, balconies the rooms offer Jacuzzis, and there perfect for romance or resetting a IF YOU HAVE RENTED a 4X4 Mill Hotel was rebuilt from a grain and full restaurant offering the lo- is a sauna available. frazzled city brain. and found the adrenaline rush of mill that operated on the bank of cal specialty, rainbow trout. Not to be missed is the Inn's All this relaxation may be fan- the mountain roads pleasurable, the river from the 17th century un- Mesostrato Tavern with its crack- tastic, but there is also plenty to do there are also nail-biting, off-road til it was abandoned in the 1950s. THE HOMELY and relaxing ling fireplace and traditional meze to keep busy. The surrounding tracks available, the nicest of which The new structure, built around the Linos Inn, housed in a restored dinner - small dishes brought in countryside is crossed with walking leads to the Cedar Valley, where still turning wheel, is in keeping group of stone village buildings, is one after another so you can expe- trails, and guided mountain bike you can see rare lacy Cedar pines, with the local architecture, though furnished traditionally, though rience the full variety of Cypriot tours are also available from Bike which grow only in Cyprus. it is slightly scaled up to accommo- with modern amenities. Many of cooking. It is a slow paced meal, Trek Cyprus. For the more culturally minded, the area boasts nine churches that have been declared UNESCO World Heritage Sites for their frescoes, icons and architecture. There is al- so the village of Fikardou, the whole of which has been classed as a national monument for its tradi- tional Byzantine architecture.

For further information on visiting Cyprus see www.visitcyprus.org.cy

Travelbite UK published the above on May 8. THE NATIONAL HERALD, MAY 19, 2007 TOURISM & REAL ESTATE 3

By Chris Welsch Athens' Glorious ages Star-Tribune The Greek capital embraces a modern renaissance while cherishing every layer of its past

ATHENS – In Athens, you can't es- time." Acropolis. Minutes later, we stood cape time's arrow. Not even in a THE CITY IN FLUX at the base of the vertiginous, rocky shiny new subway station in the That, I could see for myself. I hill. We walked up Dionysus Av- heart of the city. have been to Athens twice. In 1988, enue, past the ancient theater of "Do you know how many Athens Athens was a poor, European back- my 24-year-old heartbreak. we are standing on right now?" water. Few people spoke English. We paused to admire the Acrop- asked Despina Savvidou as we Traffic jammed the narrow streets. olis, still looming above us. "This is Awalked down the stairs into the Yellow-gray haze obscured the a symbol of the Greek nation," subway station. city's famous hills. Just the same, I Savvidou said. "This is our holy "At least 6 cities. When they dug up fell in love with the city - with its rock." the subway system, they brought opinionated citizens, its smoky tav- The landmark that endures into light every old Athens." ernas, and the way Athens' herky- Talk of the past evaporated Savvidou is a native Athenian jerky present awkwardly flowed when we came around the corner who proudly waves the banner for around the ruins of its illustrious and confronted the facade of the all things Greek. She was leading history. Public buses belched diesel Parthenon, the temple to Athena me and three others on a walking fumes not 100 feet from the teeter- that crowns the Acropolis. It may tour of the city. Our starting point ing columns of the Temple of be 2,500 years old, and partly in ru- was the subway station. The end- Olympian Zeus. ins, but it retains the power to point would be the Acropolis, For a drachma-pinching back- strike awe into its viewers. which, to use the Greek alphabet, is packer, Athens was ideal. My hotel the alpha and omega of Athens. near the Acropolis was $17 a night. IT’S A VERY SIMPLE structure For dollars a day, I ate moussaka on first glance: eight white marble THE NEW SUBWAY seemed an and stuffed grape leaves and sipped columns support a triangular pedi- odd place to start an examination ouzo and murky Greek coffee. I had ment and 17 columns flank the of one of the world's oldest cities. to learn some Greek to order food sides. It's the model for thousands The station's sleek surfaces - marble and get around. of banks, museums and govern- floors, metal railings, a giant metal- It was my first trip to Europe as ment buildings the world over. But lic clock sculpture - sparkle under an adult, and it was an odyssey in it's not simple at all. large overhead lights. On one side the best sense of the word. In the "The architect took many steps of the station, however, a glass wall span of a few days, I fell in love, I to play with our attention," Savvi- reveals layers of the past, directly lost love, and I bemoaned cruel dou said. "The columns are not par- where they lie. Signs point out a fate. In tears, I sat on the stone ris- allel. If you lengthen them long thousands-year-old roadbed, a ers in the moonlight at the Theater enough, they form a pyramid. The grave from 400 B.C., wine vessels of Dionysus, the open amphithe- columns are also wider at the top and clay drain pipes for the city's ater on the southern flank of the and bottom, but you can't see it. It's ancient sewage system, among oth- Acropolis. The venue for Euripides' an optical illusion that creates a flu- er things. The layers speak of pre- greatest plays was the perfect place idity of movement. You can't take history, the glorious Greece of Peri- to rue my personal drama. Even your eyes off it." cles, the days of Rome, the Christ- small tragedies deserve a great Savvidou explained that the ian empire and the 400 years of stage. Parthenon is built on a foundation Turkish occupation. of gravel, sand and straw - "the first The subway, completed in 2000, THIS TIME AROUND, Athens anti-seismic building in the world." became Athens' most ambitious ar- was an excellent reminder that The Parthenon survived many

chaeology project, Savvidou said. when you travel, you travel in time earthquakes as a result. It's been As crews built three major metro as well as in space. In other words, man, not nature, who posed the lines and dozens of stations, ar- the parochial Athens of 1988 was biggest threats to the building. chaeologists excavated more than 2 not the cosmopolitan Athens of "Until 1687, the Parthenon was million artifacts. Some of them are 2006. intact, the whole structure. It was on display in Syntagma Station: so beautiful that no one touched it," olive-oil lamps, vases, combs and A BARGAIN HOTEL near the she said. "Then, during a siege of pieces of jewelry that once adorned Acropolis was $100 a night. The sit- Athens, a Venetian bomb destroyed the beautiful women of the Greek down meals cost at least $20. The the roof and knocked other parts of capital. The subway itself is an im- soot-stained shops on pedestrian- the temple down." Leaving it much portant artifact of modern Athens. only Ermou Avenue had become as it is today. posh fashion houses and trendy That was where Savvidou left "ALL ATHENIANS are very cafes. us. Modern Athens spread in all di- proud of this subway system," The smog hasn't disappeared rections beneath our feet, and ris- Savvidou said. "It takes more than completely, but for a couple of ing above us, the Parthenon proud- 800,000 people in and out of the days, the sky was crystalline blue. ly stood vigil, a fragment of Athens' city daily. You can't compare the And the subway - with signage in past that regally presides over its traffic today to what it was even English and Greek - made getting present. five years ago. And that's the least around simple. of it. Athens has undergone Despina Savvidou and our The Star-Tribune published the tremendous change in a very short group boarded the train for the above on February 25. 4 TOURISM & REAL ESTATE THE NATIONAL HERALD, MAY 19, 2007 Travel Postcard: 48 hours in Athens Got 48 hours to explore Athens? Reuters correspondents with local knowledge help visitors get the most from a short visit.

By Dina Kyriakidou Reuters

FRIDAY 6:00 p.m. - Start your visit from the heart of the city, Syntagma Square, just below the Greek parlia- ment. Go down the pedestrian walk- way of Ermou, the city's most popu- lar shopping street. Browse or shop until you get to Kapnikarea - an 11th century church built on the ruins of an ancient Greek temple - and turn left towards the district, below the Acropolis. 7:00 p.m. - Plaka, the ancient city's oldest neighborhood boasts nicely renovated houses on narrow streets, a plethora of tavernas and souvenir shops. Find the Aerides Square, where overlapping layers of Greek history unfold before your eyes - the Classical Acropolis tem- ples, the Hellenistic Tower of the Winds, the Roman Agora, Byzantine and Ottoman ruins. 8:00 p.m. - Have dinner in Pla- ka, either at the busy Byzantine restaurant (18 Kydathineon, +30210 3227368) on Filomouson Etairion Square, a lively spot where you can enjoy Greek traditional cooking and watch crowds go by. Or go up the steep stone steps to 's (16 Erehtheos, +30210 3218733) for fresh fish. Sit under the tree and experience Athens as it must have been 200 years ago, not a single modern building in sight. 10:30 p.m. - If your energy levels are still high, head to the district of Psyri, the new hip place in Athens for night clubs and live music. New- ly gentrified, it buzzes with life every night. Try any of the night- clubs around Iroon Square, such as Mao (3 Agatharhou, +30210 3317649) or Soul (65 Evripidou, +30210 3310907), not far from the spot where English poet fell in love with an Athenian girl. SATURDAY 9:00 a.m. - Stroll through the National Gardens, on V. Amalias avenue, towards Hadrian's Arch and the majestic ruins of the temple of Zeus, and take the main pedes- trian walk-way of D. Aeropagitou leading to the Acropolis, past the Herod Atticus Theatre which still hosts summer performances. 9:45 a.m. - Climb up the Acropolis hill (+30210 3214172). Make a stop to catch your breath at the top of the huge marble Propyla- a modern twist on tradition on one fashionable crowd, gathering here the small hours. square or the hundreds of peddlers Sardelles (15 Persephonis, +30210 ia steps and get your first glimpse of Athens's most pleasant streets. If to socialize and people-watch. spreading their goods on the 3478050) has simple, fresh of the Parthenon. Tour the Classical the weather allows, opt for outdoor 6:00 p.m. - For the best spot in SUNDAY ground. On Sundays, the area is seafood. temples, stunning remnants of the seating and enjoy the view. the city to enjoy the sunset, take the 9:00 a.m. - Start your day with a packed with Athenians shopping 3:00 p.m. - Make your way back Golden Age of Athens, and make 2:45 p.m. - Take a short hop on funicular (1 Aristippou, +30210 visit to the National Archaeologi- and then sitting down for ouzo and towards the Thissio area and visit sure you visit the small museum the metro from Thissio to Syntag- 7227065) up to the top of Lycabet- cal Museum (44 Patission, +30210 meze at the area's numerous cafes. the small, modern art collection at (+30210 3236665). ma and walk to the Benaki Muse- tus Hill, visit the small church of St. 8217724, 8217717). The stately, 1:00 p.m. - For lunch head the private Herakleidon Museum 12:00 p.m. - Come down and um (1 Koumbari St., +30210 367 George and take in the panoramic 1880s building houses a vast collec- down to Piraeus (16 Herakleidon, +30210 finish your walk around the hill 1000), founded by wealthy Greek vistas stretching to the Aegean Sea. tion of ancient Greek art - world fa- street, a formerly rundown indus- 3461981). The beautifully re- along A. Pavlou street all the way to collector from Alexandria. Enjoy a 8:30 p.m. - Walk back down to mous marble and bronze statues, trial area which is quickly becom- stored, 1898 neo-classical building Thissio, past views of the Ancient tour of Greek history - from pre-his- the posh area for dinner, 16th century BC frescoes from the ing the city's art centre. Right after has developed many faithful fans Agora, ancient Greece's gathering toric to modern times - beautifully either at Prytaneio (7-9 Milioni, island of Santorini and the gold trea- the impressive brick towers of the since it opened its doors to visitors spot where Socrates and other displayed in a neo-classical man- +30210 3643353), a favorite spot sure discovered by Heinrich Schlie- old gasworks factory, now a cultur- just in time for the 2004 Athens philosophers taught, the Attalus sion. Check out the excellent muse- of the area's hip crowd on a mann in Mycenae in 1876, includ- al park, turn right on Persephonis Olympics. End your Athens visit Stoa and the well-preserved Tem- um shop. bustling pedestrian street. Or, if ing the "Mask of Agamemnon". Street, lined with some of the city's with a drink at any of the cafes ple of Hephestos. 5:15 p.m - Walk to the nearby you're up for a Greek-style party, try 11:00 a.m. - Take a short taxi ride to most fashionable eateries. Ma- across from the museum. 12:45 p.m - Have lunch at Kuzi- Kolonaki Square, where the num- Sea Satin (1 Fokilidou, +30210 the flea market of Avissinias makas (41 Persephonis, +30210 na (9 Adrianou, +30210 3240133) ber of designer shops rivals that of 3619646) which combines good Square, in the heart of . 3464984) serves Greek food the Reuters published the above on a pleasant, lively Greek eatery with cafes. Have a drink with Athens' Greek food with lively dancing into Visit the antique shops lining the way mom would make it and March 16. Skopelos: The perfect spot for sea and serenity By Tony Dawe The Times

f all the Greek Islands, equipped kitchen and pleasant din- nas, or buses will carry you to the Skopelos is one of the ing area. fishing villages of Agnondas and prettiest and most un- The two bedrooms, one double Panormos. Beware the overpriced spoilt. Set in the north- and one twin-bedded, guarantee a tavernas in the first, but enjoy the ern Aegean Sea and good night's sleep after plenty of cheaper cafes and wonderful set- Opart of the Sporades group, it is fresh air and sunshine. ting of the second. reached by fast ferry from Skiathos, which is lined with sandy beaches, SOME GUESTS MAY SEE no MY MOST MEMORABLE meals while Skopelos boasts enticing reason for leaving the villa but the were home-cooked dinners on the coves, pleasant fishing villages, sparkling town across the bay will terrace of the new Ditropon taver- mountains, amazing churches and beckon most -and every Sunday na on the road to Panormous, monasteries -and oodles of charm. evening George, the local historian, watching the sun set over two small It also has some special places to leads entertaining and informative offshore islands. stay, most notably the Monastiri tours through the narrow streets, Farther a field, the twisting road Villa. Set on a hillside, its pool deck up the winding steps and into the around Mount Delphi, the northern looks down on the bay and the tiny churches. Up the twisting lanes port of Loutraki and the chapel of white-washed houses of Skopelos behind the villa, among the um- St John, up 206 steps on a promon- town tumbling down the opposite brella pines and olive groves, are tory on the northeast coast, are all hillside. Landscaped gardens, ter- isolated monasteries where a monk worth leaving the villa for. races offering plenty of shade and at the gate will show you the icons the Palouki mountain rising behind and offer sweetmeats and sou- MONASTIRI VILLA is available the house add to the setting. venirs. throughout May with Greek Islands The island has a church or Club, with prices starting from THE INTERIOR IS JUST as wel- chapel for every day of the year and $1,074 a person for a week, based coming. This is no Spartan Greek it has become a custom when build- on four sharing, and $1,335 if two structure, but a comfortable home ing or restoring a home to erect a stay. with a large open-plan sitting room chapel as well. From Skopelos full of scatter cushions and lined Town, a ferry will take you to The Times published the with pictures, adjoining a well- Glysteri, a secluded bay with taver- above on April 26. THE NATIONAL HERALD, MAY 19, 2007 TOURISM & REAL ESTATE 5 Athens Capitalises on its Post Olympic Tourism Potential

ust three years after the Olympics, Athens has es- tablished itself as a key city break destination and is Jnow gearing up for the world’s leading travel and tourism show dedicated to the city break sector. Reed Travel Exhibition’s, City Break 2007, will see Europe’s lead- ing buyers and suppliers of city Greek breaks descend on the former Olympic host city for an intensive three-day workshop. Brokerage According to IPK’s World Travel Monitor, city based tourism ac- counts for almost 40% of total Eu- offers wide ropean outbound trips. In light of this, Athens is making the most of its post Olympic tourism potential range of and is promoting the European capital as a year round city break properties destination.

HOTELS AND AIRLINES are Ploumis Sotiropoulos is a teaming up to create enticing pack- full-service real estate broker- ages highlighting the capital’s icon- age founded in 1924 and offer- ic cultural offerings alongside more ing a wide range of properties contemporary pursuits such as art in the greater Athens area and festivals, casinos, fashionable in selected areas around restaurants, chic bars and glam- Greece. orous shopping. In Athens and its principal Key to Athens’ post-Olympic suburbs, we handle the sale growth in the city break tourism and rental of houses, apart- sector is the overall increase of in- ments,offices,and retail premis- ternational passengers travelling to es, as well as the sale of land the historic city for leisure travel, sites for construction.Arround which, since 2004, makes up 40- Greece, we offer for sale vaca- 60% of foreign travel. tion villas, hotels,and land for development. AS REPORTED BY ATHENS In- We also participate in three ternational Airport (AIA), in 2006 important international real es- alone, international leisure travel tate networks:Christie’s Great to Athens enjoyed an impressive Estates, the European Real Es- 20% increase. In addition to the tate Network, and the Leading dense network of conventional car- Real Estate Companies of the riers, AIA reports a 30% increase in World. low-cost carrier (LCCs) passenger These alliances allow us to traffic in 2006. Today, fifteen provide two important benefits LCCs operate out of the award-win- for our clients: assisting those ning airport serving 27 European who wish to buy property out- destinations with recent additions side of Greece, and promoting including Aer Lingus, Air Baltic and Greek properties for sale inter- KDavia. nationally. For further informa- Tour operators, hoteliers, tourist tion or any other of these ser- boards and Destination Manage- June 2007 at the Faliro Sports Public Relations Director of the trade professionals from Europe, gether with some of their main vices, please contact our of- ment Companies (DMC) will all Pavilion.“Agency travel and Athens Tourism & Economic Devel- Asia, the Balkans and the Middle agencies and hotels. fices. profit from Athens’ Olympic experi- tourism industry professionals are opment Agency. “The Conference East to attend." Catherine Vaughan, ences and accomplishments when sure to appreciate the invigorating and Exhibition will provide jour- Marketing Manager of City Break SIMILAR INTEREST is coming 6 Panepistimiou Str., the Greek capital hosts Reed Travel sun-drenched days, clear blue nalists and travel professionals the said: “This year we have a strong from Belgrade and Novi Sad in Ser- 10671 Athens, Greece Exhibtion’s, City Break 2007. skies, spectacular seas and archae- opportunity to get an up close and interest from suppliers in emerging bia, Bratislava in Slovakia plus the Tel:011-210-3643-112 Sponsored by the European City ological monuments – the ideal personal look at the new Athens. cities in Croatia such as Rijeka, Za- Baltic States are showing steady FAX:011-210-3638-005 Marketing (ECM), City Break 2007, backdrop for the City Break 2007 The city’s convenient geographical greb and Split who will all be sup- growth including representation E-MAIL:[email protected] will be held from the 11th -13th exhibition,” says Athina Vorillas, location makes it an ideal hub for porting the event again this year to- from Vilnius and Tallinn". www.ploumis-sotiropoulos.gr Survey shows number of US tourists rises significantly By Stathis Kousounis Kathimerini

ATHENS – Tourism traffic from the THE LATEST SURVEY by the the most popular means of trans- US to Greece appears to be increas- Travel Industry Association of the port for a vacation trip. Still, at ing for a third consecutive year, ac- US in association with American least once a year they make a trip cording to initial estimates. Express on Americans’ travel habits by airplane. The last couple of years have has shown that 124 million Ameri- Americans often travel with seen the biggest ever increases in cans went on vacation last year, their partner or other close people US tourist visits to Greece, exceed- that is 55 percent of the adult popu- (62 percent). The most popular ing 360,000 last year. There is also lation, with the typical traveler destinations for them are cities (39 strong interest for visits to Greece making three trips per year. In aver- percent), followed by towns and through cruises, as has been con- age, a household spends $1,500 the countryside (26 percent) and fi- firmed with the advent of US cruis- (1,110 euro) in each vacation trip nally the ocean beaches (23 per- ing companies which have includ- and travels 1,200 miles (1,920 kilo- cent). Their most common activi- ed Greece in their schedules. meters). Traveling by car remains ties while on vacation are sightsee- ing and shopping (51 percent each), which Greece can cater for successfully. The survey showed that resting and spending time with people they consider important are the most significant elements of any vacation. Spending time with fami- ly is therefore key for recreation trips, while elements such as liber- ty, escaping and more time with a partner are less satisfied. CRUCIALLY FOR GREECE, US travelers consider ideal the vaca- tion destinations which offer an easy traveling experience, the feel- ing of entertainment and adven- ture, and a clear sense of the loca- tion they visit. Although almost nine out of 10 were particularly satisfied with their latest trip, less than half of them said it was close to what they consider ideal. Lisa Gregg, the vice president of American Express on North Ameri- can market development, com- mented that “while Americans still love traveling for vacation, this sur- vey reveals that the tourism indus- try has the ability to do much more to upgrade the vacation that offers experiences to travelers regardless of their age, family type and mo- tives.”

Kathimerini published the above on April 14. 6 TOURISM & REAL ESTATE THE NATIONAL HERALD, MAY 19, 2007 Keeping in step with Greek customs

Chicago Daily Herald It is always good to be on time to a meeting, but do not be surprised o say my friend Costas if your Greek counterpart runs late has an exuberant nature instead. Being punctual in this part is an understatement. of the world is not as important as Take the way he talks. it is in, say, Switzerland. TThis Greek friend says In situations where a line might more with his hands than he does be formed, say at a bus stop, don’t with his mouth. He is apt to gesture be put off if there is no line to be with every sentence, making pic- found. Forming a queue in Greece tures with his hands that silently is not necessarily the way things tell the story. Actually, even when are done and if they are, the queue this brainy fellow is not talking at is not necessarily orderly. Don’t be all, his hands are busy fingering a surprised and don’t get mad if a bunch of beads. This seems to calm whole bunch of people cut in front Costas’ nervous nature. The first of you. time I saw my friend fiddling with a string of beads, I thought he was WHEN YOU ASK for directions, handling a rosary. Knowing Costas say to a museum or to a particular is not religious, I asked him about restaurant, make sure you ask the habit. “These are my worry someone who actually knows the beads,” he told me. answer. Asking any person on the Some Greek ways are often easy street may get you an answer, just to understand, although some are not necessarily the right one. This is not. Following are some cultural not because that person wants to practices you may encounter dur- steer you in the wrong direction, ing a visit to this ancient country: but merely because the answer is If you ask a question and your based on a memory. To be sure you Greek companion nods in response, eventually get where you are go- this does not designate the affirma- ing, ask for help from a colleague or tive. In fact, a slight upward nod from your hotel concierge. means no, not yes. However, a tilt If someone smiles at you, don’t of the head to either the left or the think that necessarily means he or right means yes, not no. she is happy. In Greece, a grin can mean a EXPECT TO EAT a sumptuous person is upbeat and it can also meal in the middle of the day in mean a person is upset, or worse, Greece. The main meal is common- downright angry. ly lunch, not dinner. If you happen to be dining out Looking for your dessert spoon? with your Greek colleagues and all It’s usually found at the top of your of them suddenly get up to dance, place setting. don’t be shy even if you have two Don’t be alarmed if, instead of a left feet. Joining in not only shows hearty handshake, your Greek col- you to be a good sport, but also that league hugs you. Meeting and you are a friendly person who is in- greeting can take many forms, even terested in taking part in a very in business circles. You may even popular Greek custom. meet a cohort who gives you a kiss on the cheek or a friendly slap on The Chicago Daily Herald pub- the back. lished the above on April 15.

result in square or elongated pieces. Greek Baklava Be careful not to cut right down to the base, but only the top layers. INGREDIENTS This is done in order to make cutting A Greek odyssey FILLING and lifting the pieces out, once it is 500 gr. walnuts, coarsely cooked, much easier and efficient. chopped Using the tips of four fingers, sprin- Aberdeen Press & Journal heavy with the scent of wild sage. tant bleating of goats or the crow- tion for honeymoon couples and is 60 gr. sugar kle drops of water all over the sur- As a journey, it does not rank ing of a cockerel, then Ithaca could upmarket, yet relaxed and easy-go- 1 teaspoon cinnamon face and cook it in a preheated oven, ITHACA – Homer would be rather with Odysseus' 10-year struggle to be the place you have been search- ing. One special feature is the PASTRY gas no.5/ 375 grades F / 190 grades pleased: every day at 11am a little return home after the Trojan wars, ing for. swimming pool, where you can 500 gr. fyllo pastry C, for 15 minutes; lower the heat to blue bus sets off on an extraordi- but it is a wonderful experience of float peacefully and enjoy the view 180 gr. unsalted butter, melted gas no.4/ 350 grades F/ l80 grades nary odyssey around the historic is- life as it is really lived on the most WE FLEW to nearby Cephalo- across the rooftops to the harbor. SYRUP C and cook for a further 20 minutes. land of Ithaca. unspoiled of the Greek islands. nia, which some say is the place 230 gr. caster sugar In the meantime, prepare the The bus, which has been baking Homer really had in mind when he THE SHAKING EARTH and the 300 ml water syrup. Place all the syrup ingredi- in the sun alongside the harbor in IT WAS ACTUALLY the romance wrote about Odysseus's homeland, passage of time have meant that 2 cinnamon sticks ents, apart from the honey, in a the island's capital of Vathy, grinds of Homer's Odyssey which drew us and caught a late-night ferry for the there are precious few ancient 2 teaspoons lemon juice saucepan and stir to dissolve the into gear and rumbles off on an to Ithaca. His hero, Odysseus, lived short distance to Vathy. Greek remains to look at on the is- some lemon peel sugar. Simmer for 6-8 minutes, add hour-long journey to Kioni in the on the island and braved many ad- The entrance to Vathy's harbor is land. And there is even less reason 2 tablespoons honey the honey and simmer for a further north of the island. ventures to return to the loving a narrow channel guarded by two to suppose that the so-called Home- 5 minutes until it thickens slightly. As the vehicle lumbers around arms of his wife, Penelope. The rocky peaks. Did Homer have them ric sites dotted about Ithaca are nec- METHOD Let the baklava cool down then perilous hairpin bends overlooking Odyssey is one of the earliest and in mind when he imagined essarily what they claim to be. Mix all the filling ingredients in pour the hot but not boiling syrup precipitous cliffs, the driver holds greatest works of Western litera- Odysseus sailing between the twin It does not matter that much. It a bowl. Liberally butter the base slowly all over, through a strainer. court to a gaggle of ancient old ture and has ensured that Ithaca's crags which were home to the six- is the state of mind that the island and sides of an elongated or round Let it stand and absorb the syrup. ladies, joking, gossiping, waving name will always have a special headed monster, Scylla, and the induces that is important: it is a baking dish. his arms expansively and bellowing resonance. terrible whirlpool, Charybdis? place to relax, to have fun, but also Measure the length of the fyllo down a mobile phone. Indeed, the island serves as a Probably not, but it is nice to to think. against the baking dish roughly and, Yoghurt dip - The journey of the bus is a major metaphor for life itself in Constan- speculate on the prospect as you You can be active - hire boats, allowing 2 cm extra approximately event on this sleepy, sun-baked is- tine Cavafy's poem, Ithaca, which hike over one of the hills to reach cars and mopeds - and tour the is- for shrinkage, cut to length with a land, rich in Homeric legend. famously was read at Jacqueline one of the island's charming and al- land. But many may feel it is better sharp knife. Brush each layer of fyllo (Tzatziki) Kennedy's funeral. most deserted little shingle beach- to slow down to match the natural with melted butter and spread over INGREDIENTS AS IT LUMBERS past olive It says: es. pace of Ithaca. the base of the container as evenly 1/2 kilo strained yoghurt groves and climbs over the moun- "When you set out on the voyage to The geological forces that thrust Every autumn, the families liv- as possible. Once you have used 5 1 cucumber tainous spine of the island, local Ithaca the islands out of the Ionian Sea ing around the little harbor in layers of pastry, sprinkle a thin layer 4 garlic cloves (more makes it people rush out to wave to the dri- Pray that your journey may be long continue to shape the landscape. Vathy press the olives from the of filling all over the surface and add with stronger taste) ver and press parcels on him for de- Full of adventures, full of knowl- Just over 50 years ago, a severe nearby groves to produce a rich, 3 more layers. Sprinkle a thin layer salt livery along the route. edge." earthquake flattened many of the fragrant olive oil. They sit in the of filling and place 2 more sheets of oil Suddenly, he slams on the Despite the romance of its name buildings, and our hotel was shade, relax and chat while the oil fyllo on top. Sprinkle on all the re- vinegar brakes: a goat is blocking the road and its prime position in the Ionian among those tastefully restored af- is produced, drip-by-drip. They maining filling, spreading it evenly, and has to be persuaded to move chain of islands - Corfu is nearby - ter it’s shaking. have probably done that for thou- and cover with 7-8 more layers of METHOD out of our way. As we pass through Ithaca has not been spoiled at all by The Perantzada Hotel is a neo- sands of years - back even in the fyllo, brushing individually with Grate the garlic and mix it with a tiny hamlet, a waitress in a taver- tourist development. The popula- classical 19th-century mansion set time of Homer and Odysseus - and butter. Fold any excess pastry on ei- salt and vinegar. Peel the cucumber, na stops serving a customer and tion swells in the summer, but the back in a little alleyway running they will no doubt do so far into the ther of the sides over the filling and grate it and squeeze it until all its wa- has an animated conversation with lack of expansive sandy beaches parallel to the waterfront. It is a future. brush it with butter. Brush the top ter is removed. Put the yoghurt into a the driver - a tray of drinks and will always prevent it becoming a stylish boutique hotel that features The world has changed, but still layer liberally with butter in order to bowl and add the cucumber into it. food still balanced on her shoulder. major holiday destination. quirky works of art in every room nothing much happens on Ithaca. get it crisp and golden. Trim any ex- Then mix the yoghurt with the mix- And, all the time, a glorious sun That is what makes it a delight and is a cool place to chill out when That is the way it is meant to be. cess pastry with a small sharp knife, ture of grated garlic. Whiz the con- is shining on the rich blue sea and to visit. If you like doing nothing - you have had enough of mooching keeping in mind that it will also tent until all the ingredients are well the craggy mountains covered in or very little - and want the sound- around the island. The Aberdeen Press & Journal shrink. Cut the top layers of fyllo mixed. Add some oil. Yoghurt dip statuesque fir trees. And the air is track to your holiday to be the dis- It seems to be a favorite destina- published the above on March 3. carefully, either diagonally into dia- can be served in a normal tempera- mond shapes or straight, which will ture but it is rather preferred cold. subscribe PRINTED EDITION OF THE NATIONAL HERALD via the post-office: ❏1 Month for $9.95 ❏3 Months for $19.95 ❏6 Months for $29.95 ❏One Year fo $59.85 VIA HOME DELIVERY (NY, NJ & CT): ❏1 Month for $12.95 ❏3 Months for $29.95 ❏6 Months for $43.99 ❏One Year for $80.00 VIA HOME DELIVERY (NEW ENGLAND, PENNSYLVANIA & WASHINGTON D.C.) ❏1 Month for $15.95 ❏3 Months for $37.45 ❏6 Months for $51.75 ❏One Year for $99.00 ON LINE SUBSCRIPTION www.thenationalherald.com NON SUBSCRIBERS: ❏One Year for $29.95 ❏One Month for $3.95 SUBSCRIBERS: ❏One Year for $19.95 ❏One Month for $1.95

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By Peter Kent Montreal Gazette who used Patmos as a handy dump- every summer looking for simple ing ground for Christian trouble- creature comforts and tranquility PATMOS, Greece – I first discov- makers from the ancient cities of in a traditional Greek setting. ered Patmos, a tiny Greek island off Asia Minor. Some take rooms in the small the coast of Turkey, in the late "John" was St. John the Divine, hotels or family-run pensions in the 1990s on an island-hopping cruise author of the Book of Revelations, gently bustling port of Skala or in from the Turkish port of Kusadasi to a.k.a. the Apocalypse, the last book the town of Chora, which sur- Athens. I was with my family, and of the New Testament. Exiled to a rounds the monastery. Others head we promised ourselves we'd be cave on Patmos for preaching the for more remote villages or beach back for more than a whirlwind af- Gospel in the pagan metropolis of resorts. Still others head to the ternoon tour. Ephesus, a major Roman centre in wonderfully serviced campground Recently we did just that, rent- what is now Turkey, John experi- just outside of town, with its excel- ing a whitewashed cube of a house enced a vision in which Jesus de- lent beach, swimming and snorkel- above Meloi Bay for what was pos- scribed the ultimate victory of good ing on Meloi Bay. sibly the most relaxed two weeks of over evil, the end of the world and Meloi is one of more than a winter rainy season and husbanded (Fine Sand) beach on the south- and estiatoria have offerings for our lives. the creation of a new Heaven and dozen unspoiled coves and bays carefully during the long hot sum- west hook of Patmos. every palate and budget. All en- Long a blip on the tourism hori- Earth. (Apocalypse is the Greek around the island recently discov- mer. If the cistern in your house You get there by either a 45- courage long, lingering meals, zon, Patmos, a rugged volcanic out- word for "reveal.") ered by yachtsmen from around the runs out, the only remedy is an ex- minute commute in a water taxi whether it's a simple Greek salad crop in the far-eastern Dodecanese John's cave very quickly became world. It's where we settled in for pensive delivery from the Patmos from Skala harbor or a mildly de- and a Mythos beer, or a more elabo- islands near Turkey, is emerging as a shrine, and all of Patmos consid- our two weeks. water seller's tanker truck. manding half-hour hike across the rate spread with mezedes, souvla- a new favorite for people looking ered hallowed ground. More than We read a lot. I'd brought one of craggy heights from Diakofti Junc- ki, moussaka or giant sardines, all for sun, sea, culture and cuisine 300 churches are scattered from my favorites, The Greek for Love by THAT OMINOUS possibility tion, which keeps all but the most of it washed down with Ikaria without the crush and commercial- one end of its 14 kilometers to the renowned Toronto author and food moved us very quickly to adapt to adventurous confined to the lesser wine. ism of traditional Greek hot spots. other, some of them barely large critic James Chatto. short showers, washing our dishes beaches. The legacy of Patmos as a And, of course, a Greek meal These modern-day seekers fol- enough to hold two or three pil- He touchingly chronicles the in shallow basins and collecting holy site is reflected in the warn- that doesn't end with a slab of hon- low in the path of countless pil- grims. Looming on the mountain- joys and tragedies of raising a fami- and recycling the grey water for the ings prohibiting topless and nude ey-soaked baklava simply isn't com- grims over the centuries who made top above the cave is a huge forti- ly while renovating an abandoned few plants that struggle to survive bathing, but by and large, naturists plete. their way to the "Jerusalem of the fied monastery, begun in the 11th house in a remote village on Corfu. the arid months. are left alone on their stretch of Sitting in a cliffside taverna Aegean," as Patmos is also known. century, that contains a wealth of The book added meaningful per- We mustered our energy to take Psili Ammos. watching a silvery moon rise from art and religious treasures. spective to our much less challeng- some wonderful day trips to beach- the edge of the world far below, we THEY CAME BECAUSE, in the ing adventure. es around the island. Some were NIGHTLIFE IS definitely sub- were happy we had taken the road words of Hail John, a folk song BUT WHILE day-trippers from But there were parallels. On Pat- pebbled, others sandy, but, in every dued here compared to real tourist less traveled. popularized by the Rooftop Singers the cruise ships still board the buses mos, as in Corfu, water is a pre- case, the water was crystal clear spots such as Mykonos. Only one in the 1960s, "They put John on the for the run up to St. John's cave, cious commodity. and as brilliantly blue as the sky. disco is listed in the tourism pam- The Montreal Gazette published island." "They" were the Romans many more pour off the ferries It must be captured during the Our favorite was Psili Ammos phlets. But countless small tavernas the above on April 28. 8 TOURISM & REAL ESTATE THE NATIONAL HERALD, MAY 19, 2007