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FREE COPY • ATHENS

MINISTRY OF TOURISM GREEK NATIONAL TOURISM ORGANISATION

www.visitgreece.gr ATHENS • ATTICA ATHENS • ATTICA CONTENTS

Introduction 4 Tour of Athens, stage 1: Antiquities in Athens 6

Tour of Athens, stage 2: Byzantine Monuments in Athens 20

Tour of Athens, stage 3: Ottoman Monuments in Athens 24

The Architecture of Modern Athens 26 Tour of Athens, stage 4: Historic Centre (1) 28

Tour of Athens, stage 5: Historic Centre (2) 37

Tour of Athens, stage 6: Historic Centre (3) 41

Tour of Athens, stage 7: , the Rigillis area, Metz 44

Tour of Athens, stage 8: From Lycabettus Hill to Strefi Hill 52

Tour of Athens, stage 9: 3 From Syntagma sq. to Omonia sq. 56

Tour of Athens, stage 10: From Omonia sq. to Kypseli 62

Tour of Athens, stage 11: Historical walk 66

Suburbs 72 Museums 75 Day Trips in Attica 88 Shopping in Athens 109 Fun-time for kids 111 Night Life 113 and Wine 114 Information 118 Michalis Panayotakis, 6,5 years old. The artwork on the cover is courtesy of the Museum of Greek Children’s Art. Maps 128 ATTICA • ATHENS

Athens, having been inhabited since the Neolithic age, Driven by the echo of its classical past, in 1834 the is considered ’s historical capital and one of the city became the capital of the state. world’s emblematic cities. During its long, everlasting During the two centuries that elapsed however, it and fascinating history the city reached its zenith in the developed into an attractive, modern metropolis with 5th century B.C (the “Golden Age of ”), when its unrivalled charm and great interest. values and civilisation acquired a universal significance and glory. Political thought, , the arts, philosophy, Today, it offers visitors a unique experience. A journey science, architecture, among other forms of intellectual in its 6,000-year history, including the chance to see thought, reached an epic acme, in a period of intellectual renowned monuments and masterpieces of art of the consummation unique in world history. antiquity and the Middle Ages, and the architectural abited th th 1. Panoramicsince the heritage of the 19 and 20 centuries. You get an viewNeolithic of Athens age, Therefore, Athens constituted the cradle of western uplifting, embracing feeling in the brilliant light of andis considered the south civilisation. A host of Greek words and ideas, such as the Attic sky, surveying the charming landscape in Europe’ssuburbs democracy, harmony, music, mathematics, art, gastronomy, the environs of the city (the indented coastline, borderedhistorical by architecture, logic, Eros, euphoria and many others, enriched beaches and ), and enjoying the modern thecapital sea. andThe a multitude of languages, and inspired civilisations. infrastructure of the city and unique verve of the sacredone of Rock the Athenians. of Acropolisworld’s Over the years, a multitude of conquerors occupied dominatesemblematic the the city and erected splendid monuments of great Year-round visitors are fascinated by Athens, one of cities. centre.During significance, thus creating a rare historical palimpsest. the most attractive and charming capitals of Europe. 15 work was terminated. The nearby the rock of the Kalliroi ANTIQUITIES IN ATHENS Tour of Athens, stage 1: construction of the new spring – which was famous in temple was later assigned to antiquity – and the church of 14 the Roman architect Decimus Ayia Fotini, which was built in Cossutius by the king of Syria 1872 at the site of an ancient Antiochus IV, Epiphanes. temple, on the foundation Antiochus died in 163 BC of the sacred sanctuary of and the construction of Ekati. You will find nearby, the temple was once again the preserved monuments 13 abandoned. The structure did of the classical, Roman, not have a roof and pediment. and Byzantine age, among The construction of the others, (the Temple of temple, which ranks among Delphinios, the Temple of the biggest in antiquity, was Cronos and Rhea, a Byzantine completed in 131 AD by the quarter with workshops, and Roman Emperor . It Leonidis Church). is of Corinthian order (110m in length and approximately 44m in width), three rows of 2 HADRIAN’S ARCH eight columns at the narrow sides and two rows of twenty Following the construction columns at its long sides. of the temple of Zeus, Inside the temple there was a the Athenians, in 131 gold and ivory statue of Zeus AD, in honour of Emperor which does not exist today. Hadrian, built an arch on the northwestern perimeter of Ilissos Valley. the temple. The monument The surviving section of the is 18m tall and 13m wide Ilissos river valley (right behind while the arch, built of Pentelic the temple of Olympian Zeus) marble, bears two inscriptions is worth a visit. In antiquity on the architrave over the the Ilissos river was known arch. One inscription, facing as the sacred river of the the and the old town 6 7 Tour of Athens, 1st stage: Muses. Scattered remains of (facing west), says: “This is ancient sanctuaries are located Athens, the city of ”. ANTIQUITIES IN ATHENS in the valley. You will find The other inscription, facing

A 3-kilometre pedestrian zone (the biggest in Europe) has been 2 3 established in central roads (Vas. Olgas Str, D. Areopagitou Str, Ap. Pavlou Str, Adrianou Str. and a section of Ermou Str) leading to the major archaeological sites of Athens (archaeological park). Visitors to the section from Dionyssiou Aeropagitou (opposite Hadrian’s Arch) to the crossroads of Ermou Str and Pireos Str (in the area) may enjoy the ancient landscape 2. Temple in a tranquil setting of the city. The archaeological tour is an of Olympian unforgettable experience. Zeus: 16 of a total of 104 columns (with a height of 1 OLYMPIEION was founded by Deukalionas, 17 metres) a mythical ancestor of the The Olympieion includes . In the age of tyranny, have been the sanctuary (temple) of preserved. circa 515 BC, the Olympian Zeus, Roman baths, younger grandson of the 3. Hadrian’s classical houses as well as a Peisistratos, attempted to arch, the section of the ancient city’s replace the old temple with a symbolic gate fortification wall. According new, more impressive temple. of the city of to the geographer , The tyranny, however, was Athens. the temple of Olympian Zeus abolished and construction ANTIQUITIES IN ATHENS Tour of Athens, stage 1: Dionyssiou Areopagitou Str), the plague, which decimated and head upwards. On the the population. slope to your right is the most ancient theatre of 6 THE ODEION OF the world, the Theatre of HERODES ATTICUS Dionysos. In this theatre, the most famous The Odeion of Herodes poets, , Aristophanes, Atticus was built in 161 AD by the wealthy Herodes Tiberius Euripides, and saw Claudius Atticus, a teacher premiere performances of and philosopher, who inherited their plays in the 5th century a fortune from his father. BC. The auditorium and the Herodes Atticus constructed proscenium were made of wood. th the covered Odeion in memory In the 4 century BC they were of his wife Regilla. Ancient Tour of Athens, stage 1: Tour reconstructed using marble. Greeks organised events in the Sections of the stone auditorium Odeion. Nowadays, the 5,000- survive. According to experts, seat theatre is a venue for 4 the theatre had a capacity of concerts of the 17,000. On the slope overlooking ANTIQUITIES IN ATHENS (see page 126). You may enjoy the theatre, sculpted on the rock the beauty and charm of the the sanctuary and an extension the . Most of the of the Acropolis, is the choregic Odeion in a morning stroll on (319 of Athens constructed by buildings on one side of Monument of Thasyllus the way to the Acropolis. Hadrian, (facing east), says: the road facing south were BC) and two choregic Corinthian th columns. “This is the city of Hadrian, constructed in the late 19 7 not Theseus”. century and the early 20th THE ACROPOLIS century in the neoclassical or 5 THE STOA OF EUMENES The Acropolis is the symbol modernist style, reflecting the of Athens, the sacred rock, 3 DIONYSSIOU Above the theatre is the AREOPAGITOU STR bourgeois style of the street. linking the fabulous ancient Stoa of Eumenes, which was civilisation with the modern Dionyssiou Aeropagitou Str built by the King of Pergamum, city. The monuments on the 4 THE ANCIENT nd is one of the most impressive THEATRE Eumenes II in the 2 century Sacred Rock date back to the streets of Athens, offering OF DIONYSOS BC. The arch provided shelter prehistoric era and antiquity. an extraordinary view of to theatregoers in case of bad The grandeur and beauty of Directions: Enter the 8 the southern slope of the weather or shade from the sun. the Sacred Rock attract Greek 9 Acropolis, where some of archaeological area on Nearby are the ruins of the and foreign visitors. A visit the city’s most significant the southern slope of the Asclepieion of Athens, which to the Acropolis is a unique monuments stand, and Acropolis (entrance at was built in 429 BC, following experience.

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4. View of the pedestrianized Dionyssiou Areopagitou Str., centerpiece of the “grand promenade” in the archaeological sites of Athens. 5. The Theatre of Dionysos. 6. The Roman Odeion of Herodes Atticus. ANTIQUITIES IN ATHENS Tour of Athens, stage 1: were the work of the famous 7.3 The Parthenon Athenian architect, Mnesikles. is an architectural They were incorporated in the masterpiece of great renown. wall which has been preserved You will appreciate its until today and was built splendour if you visit, and during the first half of the 5th 7.4 learn about the history and the century B.C., in place of the secrets of the construction 7 older destroyed Cyclopean of the Parthenon. This wall. Before reaching the 7.1 unique temple, dedicated , you will pass 7.3 to the goddess , was through the Beulé gate, part 7.2 built of Pentelic marble. The of the Roman fortifications of Parthenon of the classical the Acropolis. Right after that era was built on the remains you will encounter a 13 m. Tour of Athens, stage 1: Tour of the monumental earlier high pedestal, known as the Parthenon, an archaic temple 6 “monument of Agrippa”, on th which the Athenians in 27 B.C. built in the late 6 century 5 erected a statue of the Roman BC. The architects of the ANTIQUITIES IN ATHENS 4 Marcus Agrippa, benefactor of classical temple, which was the city. constructed and decorated from 447-432BC (in the 7.2 The Temple of the golden age of Pericles), were Athena Victory (Wingless Iktinos and Kallikrates. It is a Victory) Doric peripteral temple with THE SIGHTS: openings were used for the south of the Propylaea, 8 columns on the front and was built circa 420 BC in the back and 17 columns on North Slope of Acropolis. worship of Apollo Ypoakraios [Under the Heights], Olympian commemoration of the victory each side. In the Parthenon Follow [Pathway] Peripatos Zeus, the god and further of the Greeks against the stood the chryselephantine on the north slope of the east the sanctuary of Persians. The temple was statue of Athena, the work of Acropolis Rock where the first and Eros. the work of the architect the famous sculptor Pheidias, inhabitants of Athens had Kallikrates. The site was the who was also in charge of settled. You will first meet a 7.1 The Propylaea location of a sanctuary in the the overall construction. The structure containing a , adorned with monuments, prehistoric era. To the left of statue was the destination of 10 known as Hourglass (5th c. BC); is the grand entrance of the the temple you will find the the great procession of the 11 the Panathenaic Way went by Acropolis. The Propylaea, built Erechtheion. Facing the temple Panathenaea, depicted on the this location. The cavernous by Pericles in 437-432 BC, is the Parthenon. frieze of the temple.

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7. Acropolis: the monument of Agrippas, the temple of Athena Nike and a part of Propylaea. 8. The Parthenon, the most splendid architectural achievement of classical . ANTIQUITIES IN ATHENS Tour of Athens, stage 1: The chryselephantine famous copy is the Varvakeios of the Athena Victory is The statue of Athena. Athena. spectacular. (see page 41) According to mythology, 7. 4 The Erechtheion u The slight bulge of the 8 THE AREIOS PAGOS the name of the city is was built from 420-406 columns of the Parthenon connected with a rivalry BC at the most holy site of gives the impression that they The Areios Pagos, venerated between and Athena the Acropolis, where goddess are bending under the weight in antiquity, is the most for the guardianship of the Athena planted the of the roof. ancient law court of the city. Poseidon offered the tree, her sacred symbol. The u The secret of the harmony world. It was the seat of the Athenians a horse, while tree was later destroyed by of the Parthenon is that there is first aristocratic assembly of Athena, struck the rock of Persian invaders. According not a straight line in the design. ancient Athens. The assembly the Acropolis with her spear, to mythology, following the Don’t be deceived by the optical gradually lost political and an olive tree sprouted. expulsion of the Persians, illusion of the columns, which influence and in the latter half The Athenians preferred the th the tree miraculously appear to bulge. of the 5 century, it retained olive tree, which symbolised Tour of Athens, stage 1: Tour sprouted again. solely its function as a court, peace and prosperity. The u The Erechtheion is a Caryatids: unique temple constructed mostly hearing murder cases. city was named after Athena. The Oresteia describes the The figures of the maidens according to the style The 12-metre high statue trial at this court of Orestes supporting the roof of the of ancient Athens. It is stood in the Parthenon. The for the murder of his mother ANTIQUITIES IN ATHENS southern balcony of the temple constructed on two levels. interior of the statue was Clytemnaestra, and her lover are copies. Five of the six It is asymmetrical and has made of wood, while the nude Aegisthus. Apostle Paul spoke Maidens that once adorned two balconies, which are not parts were made of ivory. to the Athenians at the Areios the temple are displayed in the thematically connected to The removable robe and the Pagos in 51 AD. A bronze Acropolis Museum, while the each other. The small balcony helmet were coated with gold plaque on the base of the hill sixth is displayed in the British on the south side is better plating. The statue, which commemorates his sermons. represented the goddess Museum. known, mainly due to the six Caryatids that support Athena bearing arms, and on 9 HILL her right hand a 2-metre high TAKE NOTE OF THE FOLLOWING: the roof. The differences ivory statue of victory, was between the sections of the Well worth a visit any Please be patient when lost in the early Byzantine temple may be due to the time of the year. A walk you ascend the holy rock. fact that the various parts are at Philopappou Hill is a era. Ancient sources, and You will be rewarded by the dedicated to various gods. fascinating experience: you the analytical descriptions of spectacular view at the top. Pausanias (2nd century AD), The eastern section was will find here a magnificent testify to the existence of the u You will pass through the dedicated to Athena Poliada, park, important monuments 12 13 statue. Archaeologists have Propylaea before you arrive at and the western section to such as the alleged Prisons derived information about the the Parthenon. Poseidon Erechtheus. of Socrates, the Tombs of statue from copies. The most u The view from the temple Kimon, the ancient Koilis

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9. The northern wing of the Propylaea, known as the Gallery, was decorated with paintings. 10. The southern balcony of the Erechtheion with the famous Caryatids. ANTIQUITIES IN ATHENS Tour of Athens, stage 1: street, which was a mercantile 10 the current news, criticise 11.3 Poikile Stoa. the government, exchange boulevard with shops and It is thought that Poikile houses, Iroo Mousaiou, the Pnyx is situated between ideas, or engage in discussion. the Hill of the Muses (the The area was settled in the Stoa derived its name from Philopappus Monument and the variety of the colours the spectacular view of the location of Philopappus Neolithic age. The monuments Monument) and the Hill of the and themes of its murals. Parthenon and the Acropolis. located there were built in , (the location of the various historical periods: The name “Poikile” (poikile Sanctuary of the Nymphs and from the classical age to the means diverse) leads us to the THE SIGHTS: the National Observatory, see 11th century AD. The church supposition that the murals here were painted in a variety page 43). The semicircular of Ayioi Apostoloi was built • Philopappus Monument th square was after 6 century in the 11th century (see page of colours and themes. Here was built by Athenians in the Zinon taught Stoic philosophy, nd BC the location of the 22). 2 century BC in honour of assembly of the people of which was named after Poikile the benefactor, ruler of Syria, Athens. They gathered here THE SIGHTS: Stoa (460 BC). Gaius Julius Antiochus. Gaius to hear orators speak from a 11.4 Tour of Athens, stage 1: Tour 11.1 The Stoa of Attalus. Julius was also known as Thission (Theseion) - rock platform in the centre Temple of Hephaistos. The Stoa of Attalus, a two- Philopappus, which roughly of the Pnyx, and participate floor building, was donated by translated means “one who in the democratic polity. The Thission was dedicated to the King of Pergamum Attalus loves his grandfather.” His assembly is thought to have Hephaistos and Athena, and

ANTIQUITIES IN ATHENS not Theseus. It is located in II (159-138 BC) to the city grandfather was the last King had a capacity of 10,000. the western perimeter of the of Athens. It is thought to of Kommagini Antiochus IV. 11 THE ANCIENT Agora. It is the best-preserved have been a kind of ancient • Cobbled road. In the temple of antiquity. It was commercial centre with 21 1950’s the Greek architect D. The archaeological area built in 460-415 BC. In the shops on each floor. The Pikionis developed the design of the ancient Agora is temple stood the statues collection of the Museum located on the foothills of of the area encompassing the of Hephaistos and Athena, displays everyday objects, which the Acropolis, near Thission Propylaea of the Acropolis and thought to have been sculpted were unearthed in excavations Metro Station. In antiquity, by Alkamenes. in the ancient Agora. Visitors Philopappou Hill. Take note of the Agora was not solely a the hand made cobbled roads 11.2 The monument of the may get an idea of everyday life commercial centre. It was also in ancient Athens. leading to the monuments, an important political, cultural Eponymous Heroes. the church of Ayios Demetrios and religious centre. In the Here stood the statues of 11.5 The Basileios Stoa. Loumbardiaris (see page 22) area of the agora were located the ten heroes of Attica (4th The Basileios Stoa, and the refreshment room. administrative buildings, century BC). The ten clans of constructed circa 500 BC, The area has been designated 14 temples, public services Attica were named after the is located on the foothills of 15 a Scheduled and Protected and courts. The Athenians heroes. Public announcements Thission. It was the seat of Monument of the Global gathered here every day to were displayed on the the Archon Vasileus and the Cultural Heritage. buy and sell their goods, learn pedestal of these statues. council of the Areios Pagos.

The funerary 11. 11 12 13 monument of Philopappus (with a height of 12 metres), decorated with sculpted depictions of Philopappus and his family. 12. Attalus colonnade was fully restored from 1953-1956. It houses the Ancient Agora Museum. 13. The Temple of Hephaistos (Thission), on the western side of the Ancient Agora (Agoraios Hill). ANTIQUITIES IN ATHENS Tour of Athens, stage 1: 11.6 Odeion of Agrippa. 13 HADRIAN’S LIBRARY Built by Agrippa in 15 It is situated north of the B.C. it could seat 1,000 (the entrance spectators and had a two- is on 3 Areos Str). It is a storeyed portico. It was 12 rectangular building measuring destroyed in 267 A.D. by the 13 122mx82m with a Corinthian Herulians and in 400 A.D. propylon on the west side. It the Gymnasium was built in 11.4 was built by Roman emperor Hadrian in 132 A.D. It formed its place. On the north side 11.6 four large statues of a colonnade with specific and Tritons, salvaged from areas used for the storage of papyruses and books, the Odeion, were placed on 11.2 11.3 lecture halls etc. There was a pedestals. Three of these Tour of Athens, stage 1: Tour 11.5 courtyard in the center. In this statues still exist. courtyard an Early Christian Church was built during the th 12 THE ROMAN AGORA 5 century, which was later destroyed and replaced by ANTIQUITIES IN ATHENS The Roman Agora (in the a 7th century three-aisled area) was an architectural th 11.1 basilica and an 11 century complex, built between 19 single-naved basilica. and 11 B.C., consisting of a large rectangular court 14 KERAMEIKOS surrounded by colonnades Kyrristus Clock – Tower Vespasianes (public (stoas). Behind the stoas of the Winds. lavatories). The ancient Kerameikos were various shops. On the eastern side of Rectangular building was located in the north- the Roman Agora stands an with anteroom and square western outskirts of Athens. THE SIGHTS: octagonal monument. The room with benches with It was partly enclosed by, Clock of Andronicus Kyrristus, and partly beyond, the walls Gate of Athena Archegetis. holes in them on all four constructed in the 1st century sides and a sewage canal that divide the area of the Located at the west side BC, was a hydraulic clock. On underneath (1st century A.D.), excavation. In the centre of of the area. A monumental each face of the clock can namedafter Roman emperor the archaeological site are gateway with four Doric the two best known arches of 16 be seen bas-reliefs of the Vespasianus. 17 columns and a pediment of eight winds. The monument ancient Athens, the Pentelic marble, preserved in was named ‘Winds’ from the Fetihie Mosque where the Panathenaic excellent condition. depictions. (see page 25) procession would start and

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14. Horologion [timepiece] of Kyrristos () in the Roman Agora. 15. The main yard of the Roman Agora. 16. Hadrian’s Library. ANTIQUITIES IN ATHENS Tour of Athens, stage 1: the Sacred Arch, where the The festival of the THE SIGHTS: 15 AKADEMIA PLATONOS would begin and Panathenaea.  Tombs and stelae (columns). (’S ACADEMY) the Elefsinian Mysteries Every year the ancient procession would pass through Kerameikos is mainly known From Kerameikos Athenians celebrated the Mikra archaeological site, follow (see page 100). In the vicinity (small) Panathenaea, and every for its tombs and columns. of the arches was the most The copy of the marble bull in Salaminos and Monastiriou four years they celebrated the the enclosure of the tomb of Streets and you will reach ancient and the biggest Megala (great) Panathenaea, area. The cemetery of Attica. Moreover from Kollytos, and the which were grander and copy of the famous columns area was inhabited in the it was the place of burial of th included horse racing, athletic of Dexileos and Hegeso (late prehistoric age (in the 6 citizens who were honoured by contests, competitions in music 5th century BC). If you want to century BC one of the three the city of Athens. According and other activities. On the last see the original sculpture of the famous Gymnasia of Athens to the geographer Pausanias, was founded here). It is named day of the festival, a procession Dexileos tomb stele, as well as the location was named after the hero Akademos, began at Kerameikos, (the other finds of the excavation, after Keramos. However, the please visit the Museum. or Ekadimos. However, it Tour of Athens, stage 1: Tour preparation of the procession is known after the famous place was most likely named th The tomb stele of Hegeso after the neighbourhood of would take place in a large 5 is displayed in the National philosophical school founded the kerameis (potters). (The century B.C. building with a Archaeological Museum (see by Plato (neighbourhood peristyle central court named page 75) Akademia Platonos) in 387 definition of Kerameikos BC. The school was a focal ANTIQUITIES IN ATHENS is something related to Pompeion next to the Dipylon). The Kerameikos Museum. The procession passed through point of the prestigious ceramics or potters). The It is located in the archaeological Neoplatonist philosophers. neighbourhood of the the Agora and ascended the Today, the archaeological Acropolis, where a veil named site of Kerameikos. It displays kerameis was established on very significant finds of the site is developing within a the banks of Iridanos. Peplon was offered to goddess excavation of Kerameikos, park. It occupies a surface You can see the riverbed in Athena. According to custom, including funeral gifts found in of approximately 37 acres, the archaeological area. The during the festival, statues were tombs and sculptures adorning between and ancient Demos of Kerameikos covered with real clothes. The tombs of the archaic and Lenorman Avenue (access covered a large area. Only part robe of the gods was basically classical periods. from the streets Monastiriou, Faonos and Drakondos). of it has been unearthed in a woollen tunic, woven by a The Public Memorial. excavations. It is thought that priestess assisted by young THE SIGHTS: the area of the Kerameikos virgins. It was placed on the A section of the ancient cemetery, including the tombs was bounded by the north- mast of a large wooden boat The Sacred Residence of public figures and a multitude of the Geometric period western perimeter of the as its sail and carried to the of the graves of soldiers fallen Agora on one side and the Acropolis. The procession consists of seven 18 in battle, was recently excavated 19 copse that was named after followed the boat. This near the archaeological rectangular spaces. It has the hero Akademos, on the procession is depicted on the area of Kerameikos (at 35, the same features as the frieze of the Acropolis. Salaminas Str). sacred residence of Eleusina. other side. Remnants of sacrifices found at the residence seem to indicate that this was a major 17 18 place of worship. The Gymnasium. The Gymnasium is a large rectangular building (1st century BC – 1 century AD), with an internal peristyle and rooms on the northern side. In the Gymnasium is a small area that served as an arena. 17. The Peristyle building. Kerameikos: A large rectangular building Iridanos th riverbed next (4 century BC) with an interior peristyle. It is thought to have to Iera Odos been an arena or an annex of [Sacred Way]. the Gymnasium. 18. The Early Greek Arched Funerary Residence. Stelae in the It consists of a hall, a chamber Kerameikos and a storage room. It is archaeological thought to be the prehistoric site. residence of Akademos. th BYZANTINE MONUMENTS IN ATHENS Tour of Athens, Stage 2: the 11 century. Construction 4 Ayia Ekaterini (Plaka) was completed in the 13th century. It has had various is located near the Lysikrates Tour of Athens 2nd Stage: names: Camoucharea, Monument (see page 29), in Chrysocamouchariotissa, the square bearing the same BYZANTINE MONUMENTS IN ATHENS Panayia tis Vasilopoulas name. Shading the church is a (Virgin of the Kings daughter). palm tree. It was constructed from 11th-12th century. In the The 11th and 12th centuries are thought to be the Golden Age In 1834, the year of the construction of Ermou Str, corner of the square are the of Athens’ Byzantine art. Most of the better known and more the authorities considered ruins of a roman monument. important Byzantine churches of Athens were built in these two plans to relocate the church, centuries as part of a Christian reconstruction following the or demolish it, since it 5  Ayios Ioannis campaigns of Emperor Basil II in the . Some of the better- was located in the middle Theologos (Plaka) known monasteries were also founded in the same period in the of Ermou Str, and was a is a very beautiful cruciform suburbs of Athens. hindrance to traffic. However, church of the 11th-12th thanks to the intervention century. It is located at the crossroads of Erotokritou Str Seat of Athens following the of Ludwig of , father THE SIGHTS: and Erechtheos Str. It has been expulsion of the bishops from of King Otto, and Neofytos 1 The Old Metropolis Metaxas, Bishop of Talantio renovated several times. (Cathedral) the Parthenon by the and later the Turks. From and Bishop of Athens, the (Mitropoleos Square). church was preserved at the 1839 to 1842 it was used as 6 Sotiras tou Kotaki This charming church a library. The new Metropolis present location. (Plaka) is located near the new nearby was built from 1842 is better known as Ayia Cathedral. It was built in and 1862 as the cathedral of Sotira. It is located at the late 12th century. It is 3  Ayios Nikolaos Athens. It is a domed church Rangavas (Plaka) Kydathinaion Str, opposite the dedicated to Gorgoepikoos built in the neobyzantine and , in is located near the Panayia (the Virgin Mary) and neoclassical style. the Plaka area. It was built in area of Plaka. Ayios Eleftherios. Ancient and the 11th-12th century. It has The church was built in the Byzantine bas-reliefs were been renovated several times. used for the construction 2 Kapnikarea (Ermou Str). 11th century. It was part of of the church. In the façade The Kapnikarea is a the Palace of the Rangavas is an ancient frieze, taken cruciform, domed Byzantine family. Michael I, Emperor of 7  Metochi Panayiou th Byzantium, was descended Tafou (Anafiotika). 20 from a monument of the 4 church with a dome dedicated 21 century B.C. depicting official to the Presentation of the from this family. The area It is located at Erechtheos Attic festivals. The church Virgin Mary. The original around the church was Str. It is a small monastery was the official Episcopal building was constructed in formerly called Rangavas. belonging to the Holy Sepulchre

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19. Kapnikarea church. BYZANTINE MONUMENTS IN ATHENS Tour of Athens, Stage 2: of Jerusalem. The church of a Roman nympheum of the protected them from a great 16 Taxiarhes (the church the monastery,Ayioi Anargyroi 2nd century. In the 1950s, Turkish cannon (Loumbarda) of the Petraki Monastery, th was built in the 17 century. following a renovation, it located there. at 14,Gennadiou Str), was restored to its original form. Many post-Byzantine built in the 12th century, it 8 Panayia 13 Ayioi Asomatoi (Thissio) Chryssokastriotissa murals of the church of Ayios belongs to the Petraki Monastery A cruciform church built in th (Anafiotika) Spyridonas, which has been (18 century). In the cross- the 11th century, with carved domed church visitors may see One of several churches demolished, were transported to Ayioi Apostoloi. stone blocks, framed by bricks, murals dating back to 1719. in Anafiotika. According while in places subsequent to popular belief, the Islamic influence is obvious. 17 Ayioi Isidoroi miraculous icon of the church 11 Pantanassa (Lycabettus Hill) protects believers in difficult ( Square) circumstances. 14  Ayios Ioannis stin is a small church located in It is a three-aisled basilica Kolona (Euripidou Str). a large cave in Lycabettus Hill. built in the 10th century. Tour of Athens, Stage 2: Tour A small chapel built in the It was formerly called Ayios The church belonged to the th 9 Sotira Lykodimou - 12 century, it was named Sidereas church. It was burned in Russian Church monastery of Koimesi tis after a Roman column, 1930 and reconstructed in 1931. (Filellinon Str) Theotokou from which the preserved in the interior. Ayios district’s name is derived is the biggest medieval Ioannis o Vaptistis was thought Ayios Georgios (Monastiraki). In the older days 18 building of Athens. Built in to be a healer of all sicknesses (Lycabettus Hill) it was a dependency of the of the head. Visitors may see 1031, it was part of a Roman is a whitewashed church at Catholic monastery that closed Monastery on the column offerings to the (see page 91) Saint offered by the faithful the top of Lycabettus Hill. You in 1701. In the 1850s the can reach the church on foot, building was renovated by Tsar expressing gratitude for his help. or by funicular. It is thought Alexander II who donated a 12 Ayios Demetrios that in antiquity the temple bell-tower. Sotira Lykodimou is Loumbardiaris of Akraios Zeus was located the Russian Orthodox Church (Philopappou Hill) 15 Ayioi Theodoroi here. In the period of Frankish of Athens. is a beautiful basilica (Klafthmonos Square). rule, the small chapel of Profitis BYZANTINE MONUMENTS IN ATHENS BYZANTINE of the 16th century, with The church was reconstructed Ilias was built here. Later Ayios 10  Ayioi Apostoloi tou remarkable murals. According in the late 11th century on the Georgios the Rider was built Solaki (Ancient Agora) to prevailing tradition its name foundation of a church that was here. The exact date of the is located within the Ancient (Loumbardiaris or Bombardiaris) built in the 9th century. It was construction of the church is was derived from an incident 22 Agora excavation area. It is built by N. Kalomaos, who was not known. The church bell was 23 one of the oldest churches of that occurred in the 17th a Spatharocandidatos (a rank of donated by Princess Olga who Athens (1000-1025). It was century when the Christians the Byzantine Court). put the ruined church under constructed on the ruins of believed that Saint Demetrios her protection.

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20. The Byzantine church of Ayioi Apostoloi, on the eastern side of the Ancient Agora. 21. Ayios Georgios, on the top of Lycabettus Hill. In the background is its distinctive bell tower. OTTOMAN MONUMENTS IN ATHENS Tour of Athens, stage 3: THE SIGHTS: 22 2 Hamam (Turkish Baths). 1 Mosques. The Bath of the Winds (Hamam Abid Efendi), in Plaka The Tzistarakis Mosque (or (at Kyrristou 8), built in the Kato Sintrivaniou), located in 17th century, was a popular Monastiraki Square, was built meeting place in the Ottoman in 1759 by the Turkish voivod era. It was renovated and Moustafa Agas (or Tzistarakis). now houses the Museum Seeking lime for the of Cleanliness and Body construction of the Mosque, Embellishment as well as many th Tzistarakis removed the 17 artistic and cultural events. column of the Temple of Zeus (see pages 6-7). The Mosque 3 Muslim Seminary has a loggia with four columns [Madrasah]. and two rows of four windows on each side. Since 1981 it The gate of the Muslim has housed the Museum of seminary, at the crossroads Traditional Ceramics. In Athens, of Aiolou St. and Pelopida there is only one mosque open St. (Plaka area), is what has remained of the building, to the public, the Tzistarakis which was demolished in Mosque. Near the Roman 1914 and archaeological Agora (see page 16), is the excavations took place on site. remarkable Fetihie Mosque According to an inscription [Fethiye Camii] which was built above the entrance, the in 1456 on the remains of a seminary was built in 1721 three- aisled basilica (there and consisted of a main Tour of Athens, stage 3: are discernible segments), building, which was a school in honour of Mohamed II the and a mosque, rooms where OTTOMAN MONUMENTS IN ATHENS Conqueror, on the occasion of students and teachers (hodja) his visit to Athens. After 1834 stayed, secondary rooms, and and until the early 20th c. it was a central court. In the 19th c., Athens was conquered by the Ottomans in 1456 and liberated in changed into a military bakery. 24 after Athens was selected to 25 March 1833. Throughout that period it was the biggest city in the Today it houses a collection become the Capital of the southern part of the Greek peninsula. Remarkable buildings of the of the Archaeological Service Greek state, the facilities period have been preserved. (closed to the public). housed a prison.

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22. next to the Roman Agora. 23. The Tzistarakis Mosque, on the picturesque Monastiraki Square. 24. The gate of the Muslim seminary (mendreses). OF MODERN ATHENS THE ARCHITECTURE 26 THE ARCHITECTURE OF MODERN ATHENS Neoclassicism classicism remained the was from 1834 to the predominant architectural style, 1920s the predominant public and private buildings architectural style of the were constructed in this period small city – which was in a breezy style, influenced by the decorative style in vogue in situated in what is today the . historical centre. The style of neoclassicism, which was in vogue in Western Europe, Art Nouveau. time - were constructed. demand for housing rapidly was a product of the romantic This radical movement was These small blocks of flats, increased. In the 1950s and fascination with antiquity. It not established as a major which sometimes had six the early 1960s, buildings 25. was introduced by German Distinctive architectural trend in Athens. floors, introduced a Greek with marble facades, architects who came to Greece However, after 1920, Greek variety of the international parapets, and imposing art nouveau in the early 1830s to plan mansions bourgeois from Smyrna, modernist architectural style entrances were in vogue. Athens. In the interwar era at Vasilissis Egypt, and Constantinople (Bauhaus, Art Deco). The main From 1960-1985 (the and especially after 1955, a Sofias Avenue. constructed residences characteristic of buildings development era) the mass number of Athens neoclassical following the art nouveau constructed in this period, (as construction of dull modern 26. buildings were torn down. style. The few, impressive art well as the preceding period), University However, in many areas of the buildings was in vogue, nouveau buildings contrasted are the semicircular ledges, altering the physiognomy of Athens: historical centre, the charming, with the uniform neoclassical and the facades. A multitude of the new neighbourhoods. a superb neoclassical style has been and eclectic architecture of these buildings are thought Quality buildings were also example of preserved. prevailing in Athens. to be important monuments neoclassical exemplifying the global history constructed in this era. In the architecture. of the modernist style. past few decades, following a Eclecticism. The modernist period of stagnation, Athens In the late 19th century the movement. has acquired important The post-war era (1950 – new (predominantly public) 26 tradition of neoclassicism In the early 1930s, buildings 27 was enriched by the romantic with more than two or three present day). buildings, giving the city a aesthetic, usually following the floors – the usual number In the post-war era, the new splendour, and upgrading French style. Although Athenian of floors of buildings at the population of Athens and depressed areas.

In the 27. 25 27 28 period from 1930-1960 a multitude of buildings reflecting architectural trends from modernism to more recent styles were built in Athens. 28. The building of the Headquarters of the National , one of the most impressive buildings in Athens (2002). HISTORIC CENTRE (1) Tour of Athens, stage 4: Etairia (The Society of the Museum of Greek Children’s Friends of the Muses, in other Art (9, Kodrou str.), which, words, the nine goddesses of among other things, exhibits the Arts), which was founded in its premises paintings and in 1813. The purpose three dimentional artworks by of the Society was the children up to 14 years old promotion of Greek studies from all over Greece, which and the preservation of the are renewed on a regular archaeological treasures basis. of Athens. At the square, 1.3 Lysikrates Monument. located at the crossroads of Kydathinaion Str, Farmaki Str, In ancient Athens, theatrical Olympiou Dios Str and Angelou performances held at the Geronda Str, are a multitude theatre of Dionysos were of cafes, restaurants, clubs funded by wealthy citizens, with live music and souvenir the donors. The city gave shops. a prize to the donor of the winning performance. When 1.2 The Children’s the wealthy Lysikrates won Museum, the prize in 334 BC, he located at Kydathinaion constructed a monument to Str is a wonderful place for house it. The monument is children. In the attic is a preserved (ancient Tripodon reconstructed room with old Str - pavement of the road is furniture, a radio, and theatre preserved in a special space in the style of old Athenian in a renovated building at homes, named “granddad number 28). The monument and grandma’s room,” where has had a long and varied children may dress with old history. In 1658, a Capuchin style clothes. The Museum monastery was founded here. houses among others, an In 1669, Capuchins bought exhibition of paintings by the monument. children, old toys, a fairground stayed at the monastery in his and a library. If you have second visit to Greece. In the 28 29 Tour of Athens, stage 4: children, be sure to visit the gardens the cultivation of the Children’s Museum. It's, also, tomato, hitherto unknown in HISTORIC CENTRE (1) worth seeing the neighbouring Greece, was introduced.

1 PLAKA the beauty and atmosphere of the neighbourhood are 29 30 Plaka, also known as the enchanting. In Plaka the air “neighbourhood of the gods,” you breathe is different; it is is the oldest neighbourhood lighter, cleaner, and fragrant, of Athens. Walking on its like a gift of the gods. When paved narrow streets you you visit Plaka you should get the feeling that you are bring a map, because you travelling back in time. The might get lost in the labyrinth origin of the name of the of narrow streets and alleys. neighbourhood is unknown, In Adrianou Street, the central although theories abound. street of the neighbourhood, According to popular belief, as in other streets in the 29. Plaka was named after a area, you will find shops Lysikrates slab of stone that was found selling traditional products, Monument. near the church of Ayios souvenirs, Greek folk art and handicrafts, etc. 30. The Georgios , in side streets the vicinity of the theatre THE SIGHTS: in Plaka ooze of Dionysos. The beautiful 1.1 Filomousou Etaireias with the neoclassical style colour of Square, the central square atmosphere of the houses, the architecture, of the neighbourhood, was a bygone age. the well-kept gardens, and named after the Filomousos HISTORIC CENTRE (1) Tour of Athens, stage 4: 1.4 Anafiotika, private collection of Pavlos and magazines, souvenirs, in a specially formed space on the foothills of the and Alexandra Kanellopoulos jewellery, hats, bronze objects, of 300sq.m. one can see the Acropolis, has the charm of a to the Greek state. It is new and used records and encased with stones, bed beautiful island village. It was housed in the neoclassical CDs and traditional Greek and banks of Iridanos river, built in the mid 19th century mansion of the Mihalea instruments (bouzouki, dating from antiquity. It is by the renowned builders of family. The Kanellopoulos touberleki). Shopping or visible even from the square, the Aegean island of , collection consists of walking in Monastiraki is an through the archaeological who were invited to construct archaeological finds and works unforgettable experience. You excavation pit. of art from the prehistoric era will be stunned by the variety the palace of the first king of 2.2 Avissinias Square to modern times. and quality of things you can the Hellenes, Otto (see page (Giousouroum) 47). Feeling nostalgic for their The Roman Agora buy in the market. is the central square of birthplace in their long stay in (see page 16) THE SIGHTS: Athens they recreated it in the Monastiraki. Here you will find Byzantine churches 2.1 Monastiraki Square upper area of Plaka. They built a wide range of rare furniture, Tour of Athens, stage 4: Tour (see page 20) small, whitewashed houses, Historic Square, fully antiques and the copies reproducing the architectural Ottoman Monuments renovated, paved with of antiques, and a variety HISTORIC CENTRE (1) HISTORIC style of their village. We (see page 24) colourful stones and paving of used items. Moreover, recommend that you visit blocks forming a multi- you will find old wardrobes, coloured mosaic. In the Anafiotika, the neighbourhood 2 bookcases, frames, mirrors, of the Anafiotes, a unique, MONASTIRAKI background, one can see the antique office tables, tables, charming area. A distinctive old Athens Acropolis Rock (see page 9) gramophone records and The Museum of the area, with narrow, irregularly and the Plaka (see page 28). musical instruments. Come University of Athens. criss-crossing streets, and In this magnificent square, early if you want to shop. small buildings, characteristic significant monuments from Noon is the best time to The building housing of Ottoman and to some many different historic eras the museum, located at come if you want to take a extent Byzantine urban coexist. Such monumental look around. You can have a Tholou Str, was formerly the planning. On the outdoor sites are the Tzistarakis residence of the architect glass of or ouzo stands of street sellers, mosque (see page 25), with Greek snacks - called Kleanthis (1832-1833). or the small shops on the Hadrian’s library (see page Subsequently it housed the mezedes - in one of the central roads (Adrianou Str, 17), the Byzantine church of small shops of the square, first University of Athens Pandrosou Str, Ifaistou Str, Pantanassa (see page 22). (1837-1842). and observe the bustle of the Thiseiou Str, Ayiou Filippou Of particular interest also is bazaar. The Kanellopoulos Str, Astigos Str, and Ermou the renovated neoclassical 30 31 Museum Str) you can find anything, metro station - one of the 2.3 Adrianou Str, was founded in 1976, such as shoes, clothes, old oldest of the metro network a distinctive Athens street, following the donation of the and new furniture, old books (1895). Next to the platforms, connects Hadrian’s library with

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31. Plaka quarter is a heritage area. 32. A multitude of the labyrinthine alleys of Plaka lead to the Anafiotika and the peripheral footpath of the Acropolis. 33. A typical island style house in Anafiotika, Plaka. the Thissio metro station. In Monastiraki Square (see and Ayiou Markou Streets, pervades the air. The street HISTORIC CENTRE (1) Tour of Athens, stage 4: the neoclassical one-floor or page 31). The buildings there are many shops selling has the charm of the bazaars two-floor buildings are shops on the street are built in clothing and shoes at very of the East. with traditional items, and the neoclassical style. The reasonable prices. antique shops. Street-sellers Metropolis (Athens Cathedral, In the section of Ermou 3.4 Athens Town Hall sell their ware here Sundays. see page 20) dominates Str closest to Syntagma (Athinas Str 63) You will find here cafes and Mitropoleos Square. On the Square, (up to Athinas Str) was constructed in 1874 small fashionable restaurants square are several cafes. In you will find theKapnikarea in a strictly neoclassical with a unique view of the the colourful Dimopratiriou church (see page 20). In the style. Originally a two-floor archaeological area of the Square nearby you will find Ancient Agora (see page 14). section of Ermou Str closest building, in 1937 a floor tavernas with traditional to Pireaus Str (from Greek food. was added and the building to Pireaus Str) you will find was modified due to the 3  THE OLD the archaeological site of 3.2 Ermou Str. increased space requirements

Tour of Athens, stage 4: Tour COMMERCIAL CENTRE Kerameikos (see page 17). of the Municipality. In the The area encompassed by The street is named 3.3 Athinas Str. interior you will find the HISTORIC CENTRE (1) HISTORIC Mitropoleos Str, Athinas Str after the god – the and Stadiou Str is the heart of paintings of known Greek protector of trade. Ermou A central commercial road th the historic centre of Athens, painters of the 19 century, Str was one of the first connecting Omonia and the old commercial and murals of F. Kontoglou streets paved by Kleanthis Square (see page 60) with with representations of area. In the area, with the and Schaubert. More than Monastiraki Square (see page mythological and historic smaller or larger labyrinthine 60 years, from the late 19th 31). Designed in perspective themes (1937-1940). You streets, are more than 2,500 century to the 1960s, it was shops selling a wide range of of the Acropolis Rock, it will find a large oil painting a centre of women’s fashion. was one of the first main products. Pedestrian zones depicting the Apostle Paul It is one of the best areas roads constructed in modern have been established. The teaching the Athenians for shopping in the capital. Athens and has a multitude historic commercial centre is Christian religion (1877) in a rather quiet area, with many You will find a variety of of important architectural silver, among others, candle examples of 19th century the Municipal Council hall. cafes full of atmosphere, st th In the reception room (1 small bars and modern holders, bowls, vases and and early 20 century styles. restaurants with customers jewellery, often hand-made Noisy and busy most of the floor), you will find in special any time of the day. goods produced in Greece, time, Athinas Str is connected glass-showcases, small terra in shops at Lekka Str, which mainly to the food trade. cotta figures representing all THE SIGHTS: connects Perikleous Str and In the arcades of the old the mayors of Athens. In the 32 33 3.1 Mitropoleos Str. Kolokotroni Str, and the market most of the shops sell vicinity of the municipality is It connects Syntagma nearby arcades. Also, in the groceries. The fragrance of an attractive, small square, Square (see page 46) with picturesque Evangelistrias foods, fruits, herbs and nuts Theatrou Square.

34 35 36 34. The Metropolis (Athens Cathedral) at Mitropoleos Square. On the right is Ayios Eleftherios chapel. 35. A rare palimpsest of monuments dating to all historical times in Athens is to be seen in Monastiraki square. 36. The Athens Town Hall. HISTORIC CENTRE (1) Tour of Athens, stage 4: 3.5 fish market, vegetable market Administration Building modern Athens. It was built (Ethnikis Antistassis Square), and groceries) in the interior of the National Bank of on a river bed. It was formerly and exterior sections. The (2002), one of the formerly called Laou Greece called Feidiou Str and market is covered with a most important modern Square, and Loudovikou Akakiou Str. There was a plan glass and metal roof and has architectural sights of Square, faces the Town Hall. to extend the street to the symmetrical windows. You will Athens. The building was The eclectic style Melas – which find here small restaurants designed by Greek architects, Mansion (Ern. Ziller 1887), was never put into action – (eating-houses) with fresh with the collaboration of the with an impressive façade, hence the name Stadiou. food, attracting Athenians famous architect M. Botta. and two small towers at the especially after midnight. On the ground floor you will 3.10 National Printing sides, dominates the south There is a small grove on the find a restored section of the side of the square. The square (Varvakeios Square) ancient Acharnai road. At House central hall is covered with a across the street. 10 Sophocleous Str is the connects Sarantoza Str glass roof. In the perimeter old mansion of the Athens and Arsaki Str. One of the Tour of Athens, stage 4: Tour are Doric and Ionian style 3.7 Evripidou Str Stock Exchange, with a colonnades. The building, first state buildings raised in a charming street with classical style façade with the modern city (1834), it is HISTORIC CENTRE (1) HISTORIC formerly the residence of V. an oriental atmosphere, four Dorian columns. As you built in the neoclassical style. Melas, houses the Cultural head towards Plaka you will Centre of the National Bank connects Koumoundourou Before 1905, it housed the Square (see page 61) with see two marvellous churches, National Printing Service. of Greece. In the eastern side which are well worth a visit: of the square is a renaissance Klafthmonos Square (see page 35). You will find here The Panagia Chrysospiliotissa style building, the G. Stavrou (1863 – at the crossroads 3.11 Klafthmonos Square Mansion, housing services of a multitude of shops selling spices, sweets, nuts, coffee, of Aiolou Str and Panagia the . Chrysospiliotissa Str) and is a spacious square with A section of the Acharnic and traditional oriental interesting buildings (among products. Ayias Eirinis Str (1847- Gate of the Themistocleian Athinaidos Str) both built by others, The Museum of the walls was uncovered and is City of Athens, see page 3.8 Aiolou Str. the architect L. Kaftantzoglou. exhibited in the northeastern Ayia Eirini, which was the first 85, the former Ministry section of the square. A pedestrian zone has been Cathedral of Athens, is located of Merchant Marine, the Ministry of Internal Affairs, 3.6 established in a large section at a picturesque square, where Varvakeios Municipal the Byzantine church of Ayioi (Central) Market of the Aiolou Str, which one can find a flower market connects Panepistimiou and many café-bars. Theodoroi, see page 23) is a rectangular building Ave. with the Roman Market and a multitude of cafes. An 34 35 (1886) with a large covered (Plaka). At the crossroads of 3.9 Stadiou Str impressionist bronze statue court. There are a total of Aiolou Str and Sophocleous is a central street – one of representing the National 73 food stalls (meat market, Str is the newly constructed the first paved roads of Reconciliation (Doropoulos

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37. Kotzia Square – view of the northwest side. 38. The National Reconciliation monument on Klafthmonos Square. 39. A distinctive turret of Melas Mansion on Kotzia Square. 1988) stands in the centre of architectural styles, it is the the square. work of the known Greek architect An. Metaxas (1931). 3.12 Attikon-Apollon building 3.15 Kolokotroni Square, is an eclectic style mansion a small square, with the (early 20th c.). It houses two National Historical Museum cinemas, among the oldest of and the impressive statue Athens, which have recently of the hero of the Greek been renovated. Revolution Th. Kolokotronis on horseback (L. Sohos, 3.13 Karytsi Square 1904) at its centre. Opposite is a small square, named the square (Stadiou Str 8) after the church at its centre. is the dilapidated Douila Tour of Athens, stage 4: Tour The elegant church (built Residence, one of the oldest by L. Kaftantzoglou) was buildings of the modern city, HISTORIC CENTRE (1) HISTORIC erected at the site of an older the work of Chr. Hansen. church where the Athenians in January 1833 selected a 3.16 National Historical deputation to welcome the Museum new king Otto in Nauplion. This impressive Opposite the square is the neoclassical construction neoclassical style Parnassos was built during the period building. The area is today 1858-1871 according to one of the most popular the plans of Fr. Boulanger, entertainment spots, as there which were later modified by are many cafes and small the Greek architect P. Kalkos. bars. Up until 1935 the building constituted the seat of the 3.14 Hellenic Greek Parliament and for Telecommunications this reason it is called Old Organisation (OTE) Parliament. Since 1961 it Mansion, houses the collections of the 36 37 an exceptional example National Historical Museum Tour of Athens, stage 5 of modernism in Athens, (for the museum collections with elements of older see page 81) HISTORIC CENTRE (2)

and workshops, which have 40 1 given the neighbourhood A colourful neoclassical a distinctive character. In Athens neighbourhood, the early 1990s, following encompassed by Athinas Str, a series of construction Ermou Str, and Evripidou Str. works, the neighbourhood It is a busy neighbourhood, became a popular nightlife especially in the night. You and residential area. The will find on its narrow alleys churches in the area are also a multitude of cafes, small quite interesting, such as Ayioi bars, clubs, restaurants, ouzo- Anargyroi, Ayios Demetrios, restaurants, and taverns with Ayios Gregorios (Armenian), et live Greek music, , al. Iroon square, the central galleries, art galleries, and square, is a good place for you antique shops. 40. The to start your walk. statue of Th. Following the liberation Kolokotronis of Greece (1833), veteran before the freedom fighters and 2 KERAMEIKOS building of immigrants from the Near the archaeological the National provinces settled in the area (see page 17) is the Historical neighbourhood. They historic neighbourhood of Museum. opened cottage industries Kerameikos. Worth seeing are HISTORIC CENTRE (2) Tour of Athens, stage 5 Ayion Assomaton Str (with THE SIGHTS: 4 THE SIGHTS: the Museum of Islamic Art, 3.1 The Gas works (Gazi) 4.1 Marble fountain. (see page 82), Melidoni Str The traditional neighbourhood was founded in 1857 (you will find here theJewish in the centre of Athens The marble fountain, located and closed in 1983. It synagogues Beth-Shalom was planned by architect, at Metaxourgeio Square, was produced lighting gas for th Chr. Hansen built in the 19 century. It and Etz Hayyim as well as the city. Formerly in the . The name is the Museum of Modern derived from a silk fabric was transported here from area were, among others, Dimopratiriou Square. Ceramics) and Salaminas Str. wood workshops, foundries, manufacture factory (1834- 1835), which closed in 1875. In recent years, the area has machine-works, garages, 4.2 Iasonos Str and become one of Athens popular restaurants, barbers shops, The building still stands on Yiatrakou Str. Meg. Alexandrou St., between nightlife hubs with many small medical centre. The Gas Starting at Karaiskaki works, a scheduled building, Mylerou St. and Giatrakou St. restaurants, bars and live- Square, take Achilleos Str, music nightclubs. is the only one of its kind in It was renovated and today houses the turn at Iasonos Str, and head Tour of Athens, stage 5 Tour Europe. The buildings have Municipal Art unadorned, neoclassical Gallery (with a collection of towards Agisilaou Str. You will 3 GAZI masonry, a varnished, wooden 3,000 works of art, mostly find here small theatres in HISTORIC CENTRE (2) HISTORIC roof with skylights, covered by Greek visual artists) and historic buildings. Take a right The former Gas works turn at Akadimou-Yiatrakou Str, with Byzantine or French style different cultural events. On is at the centre of the and head towards Achilleos tiles and sheet-iron. It is an the one side of Achilleos Str neighbourhood, which was Str. Take note of the small, formerly called Gazohori industrial zone, housing a (facing Pireos Str) is the old cultural centre of the Athens neoclassical (one-storey (Gas village). Located in section, and on the other side Municipality () and two-storey) houses with western Athens, it is the (facing Lenorman Str), is the balconies, balusters, and where major cultural and new section. The new section, third square of the city, other types of events are ornate front doors. At the in accordance with the which has been reconstructed, crossroads of Yiatrakou Str and hosted (concerts, exhibitions, has not maintained the Kleanthis-Schaubert urban conferences). Also, part of Germanikou Str, you will find a historic character of the plan. It has to a large the facilities (furnaces, tanks, small colourful square (Avdis extent maintained the air chambers etc.) now form neighbourhood, while in Square), with cafés and bars. colour of a historic Athens part of the Industrial Gas the old section a number neighbourhood. You will Museum where the history of of buildings constructed in 4.3 The find cafes, bars and luxury the former industrial zone is the traditional style have Railway Station. restaurants, popular among presented by means of original been preserved. In the Starting at Karaiskaki Athenians, in a multitude of items (such as machinery and area, a multitude of small Square, take a turn at restaurants-bars, and cafes 38 old, picturesque buildings. other implements) audio and Diliyianni Str, and you will 39 In the area, one can choose video recordings. Entrance is are in operation serving arrive at this colourful between different theatres and from Peiraios, Persefonis and traditional oriental beverages, building, built in 1912-1913, theatrical scenes. Iakchou Streets. sweets, and food. with an architectural design

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41. Two-storey neoclassical building at Iroon Square (Psyri). 42. Neoclassical building façades on Melidoni street (Kerameikos area). 43. The marble fountain at Metaxourgeio Square. 44 Tour of Athens, stage 5 Tour

HISTORIC CENTRE (2) HISTORIC combining the neoclassical, working-class neighbourhood central European and Art of Athens, near the historic Nouveau styles. The railway centre. Although the area station (serving railway lines has been rebuilt, the to the Peloponnese) is a neighbourhood maintains its copy in a reduced scale of the Constantinople railway distinct, historic character. station, reflecting the European Starting at Peloponnese architectural trends of the Railway Station take Ioanninon 19th century. Opposite the Str, to Ippiou Kolonou Hill and Peloponnese Railway Station (take a turn at Evripou Str) is the Larissis Railway Station proceed to Skouze Hill. Around (serving railway lines to central these small wooded hills, you and ), built in will find an area of detached 1908, in the neoclassical style, houses with gardens and and later reconstructed. small, elegant blocks of flats, Tour of Athens, stage 6 preserving the atmosphere of 40 5 KOLONOS the old Athens neighbourhood 41 If you want to go for a (nearby metro stations: HISTORIC CENTRE (3) walk, you can visit Kolonos, a and Attiki). THE PHILOPAPPOU HILL AREA

of architecture in Athens. Its 45 1 MAKRIYIANNI construction, designed by A residential area, enclosed architects B. Tschumi and Mih. by the Dionyssiou Areopagitou Fotiadis was completed in Str to the foothills of Philopap- 2007. Standing only 300m pou Hill. The neoclassical away from the Acropolis, its houses, and the newer total area covers 21,000 sq.m, buildings, (especially buildings while it offers a display area built in the interwar era), of 14,000 sq.m. It is made 44. Part of the are charming. Makriyianni of steel, glass and concrete; old Gasworks is one of the most elegant it uses natural light efficiently facility was neighbourhoods of the city. so that its 4,000 exhibits turned into an Worth a visit are, among would show off. The last level Industrial Gas others, Mitsaion Str, Parthenonos (The Parthenon room) has the Museum. Str, Webster Str, Cavalloti dimensions and the direction 45. A view of Str, Kallisperi Str, R. Gali Str, of the Parthenon and it has the industrial Mouson Str. been rotated by 23 degrees park at Gazi THE SIGHTS: in relation to the rest of the (Technopolis), building so that the visitor the venue of 1.1 The Acropolis Museum. would have an immediate cultural and It is one of the most view of the monument. The other events. important contemporary works surrounding area, visible from THE PHILOPAPPOU HILL AREA HISTORIC CENTRE (3) Tour of Athens, stage 6 the glass floor of the ground THE SIGHTS: multitude of charming the sanctuary of the Nymphs, level, functions as an open- 3.1 Dora Stratou Theatre neoclassical houses and situated there in antiquity, air museum-excavation. The stately buildings. Have a drink opposite the Acropolis and is located west of the hill at one of the outdoor cafés at the Ancient Agora. It is main entrance is on Dionyssiou (ancient Amphitheatre). You Areopagitou Street (see page Thissio Square (at Apostolou an attractive neoclassical can see performances of Pavlou Str), and enjoy a unique cruciform-shaped building, 8). In addition, the imposing Greek folk dances by the Dora Weiller building stands in the view of the Acropolis and the facing the four cardinal points. Stratou dance group. Dora Ancient Agora area. vicinity. Having been built Stratou dedicated her life to the 4.4 Ayia Marina Square by German architect W. Von research and preservation of THE SIGHTS: is a colourful, quiet square, Weiller, it combines Byzantine Greek folk art. The group, which 4.1 Irakleidon Str th style masonry and neoclassical has participated in a multitude with Ayia Marina church (19 is the central pedestrian century) at its centre. In the decorative patterns. Initially of festivals worldwide, is known zone of the area, with attractive it was used as a military in Greece and abroad. The north-western side, sculpted neoclassical buildings. Here, into the rock, lies the original hospital and later as police unit dancers wear traditional Greek and at Akamantos Str, which is Tour of Athens, stage 6 Tour chapel, with a posterior dome headquarters, whereas since costumes of various of parallel to Irakleidon Str, you will and murals of the 13th century. 1987 it houses the Acropolis the country, and perform songs find a multitude of cafes and and dances dating to all periods HISTORIC CENTRE (3) HISTORIC bars, open all day. Moreover, Research Centre (for museum of Greece’s history. 4.5 Thissio Park exhibits, see page 78). in the nearby pedestrian zone 3.2 Mercouri Square at Eptahalkou Str you will is the north-western find traditional tavernas with section of the Ancient Agora 2 is a colourful square, with small cafes, bars and traditional Mediterranean cuisine. archaeological site. It was Neighbouring Makriyanni tavernas, in the nearby streets. planted with trees in 1862 and is Koukaki, a district with a 4.2 D. Aiginitou Str ornamental plants in 1931. 3.3 Stone-built houses. THE PHILOPAPPOU HILL AREA THE PHILOPAPPOU friendly, pleasant ambience connects Apostolou Formerly it was the area where and interesting sites especially An attractive, small Pavlou Str with the National Athenians celebrated Easter. Observatory. It has a unique the area near Philopappou Hill neighbourhood is surrounded by Apolloniou Str and Troon view of the Acropolis, 4.6 Poulopoulos Hat- (Panaitoliou Str, Arakinthou Str). Str - where the post-war period Lycabettus Hill, the Ancient factory (66, Iraklidon Str.) stone-built houses exude the Agora and the modern city. is a noteworthy industrial 3 ANO atmosphere of a building with interesting village. 4.3 National Observatory, A charming, colourful the oldest research masonry and a tiled roof. The neighbourhood, exuding the institution of Greece and the building, an important landmark 1950s atmosphere in Athens. 4 THISSIO (THESEION) Balkans, was founded in 1842. that housed a hat-factory Several examples of working- 42 The area was named after The building of the Observatory many years, is a scheduled 43 class urban architecture are the nearby ancient temple was designed by Th. Hansen; monument. The space is used preserved, among others, one- (see page 15). A traditional it is located at Nymphon Hill for various purposes (Melina storey and two-storey houses. neighbourhood with a which took its name from Mercouri Cultural Centre).

46. External 46 47 48 view of the Acropolis Museum. 47. The popular cafés of Thissio Square offer an unobstructed view of the Ancient Agora and the rock of the Acropolis. 48. The National Observatory on Nymfon hilltop [Hill of the Nymphs]. KOLONAKI, THE RIGILLIS AREA, METZ Tour of Athens, stage 7 If you seek diversion and street (from relaxation, go for a stroll towards Neapoli), one would at Patriarchou Ioakim Str, find many shopping centres, Tsakalov Str, Anagnostopoulou contemporary cafes, and Str, Milioni Str, Fokylidou Str, small bars with a distinct air, Karneadou Str, Loukianou particularly popular all day Str, Ploutarchou Str, Haritos long. Str, Spefsipou Str and the 1.4 Ayios Dionyssios Lycabettus circular. (Skoufa Str), THE SIGHTS: a stately church, was built in 1.1 Kolonaki Square the early 1930s at the site of (Philikis Etairias Square). an earlier church. The façade When you visit Athens you is built in a neo-renaissance should have a coffee at one of style, and the interior is the cafes at Kolonaki Square. decorated in the Byzantine Modern Athenians and foreign style. Ayios Dionyssios visitors enjoy a break at one Areopagitis, one of Athens’ of the cafes, eating, drinking early Christians, is the patron coffee and chatting. saint of Athens. 1.2 Dexameni Square 1.5 Lycavittou Square, is a small square, which is located near Ayios serves as a local recreation Dionyssios (at the crossroads ground. The traditional of Lycavittou Str and café on the square attracts Anagnostopoulou Str). Athenians and visitors. It Dominating the square is the was the meeting place of Dragoumis Mansion (1925), intellectuals in the 20th a private residence, which century. You will find here an formerly accommodated the old aqueduct (2nd c. AD) and Brazilian Embassy. an open-air cinema. 1.6 Voukourestiou Str, 1.3 Skoufa Str distinctive Athens road, 44 is the central street of it connects the foot of 45 Kolonaki, with interesting Lycabettus Hill with Syntagma neoclassical and art deco Square. In the pedestrian style buildings. Along the zone (linking Academias Str to

49 50 Tour of Athens, stage 7

49. Tsakalof KOLONAKI, Street, one of the central THE RIGILLIS AREA, METZ roads of Kolonaki, with 1 Kolonaki the 1880’s. In Kolonaki you a multitude will find parks and attractive of cafes and Kolonaki is situated buildings, built predominantly commercial at an exclusive location, in the neoclassical and shops, is a busy encompassed by Syntagma modernist architectural street. Square, Vasilissis Sofias style, lending the area a 50. Lykavittou Avenue and the slopes of distinguished character. It is Street in Lycabettus Hill. It was named considered the “aristocratic” Kolonaki seen after the old column (the neighbourhood of Athens. in the direction Greek for small column is You will find here the most from Lykavittou kolonaki), in the centre of expensive commercial shops, Square towards Kolonaki Square. The area popular cafes and modern Skoufa Street. was not developed before bars, and luxury restaurants. KOLONAKI, THE RIGILLIS AREA, METZ Tour of Athens, stage 7 Panepistimiou Ave.), you will boutiques, with high couture Acropolis, the Cathedral, the a collection of valuable find a multitude of attractive items produced by Greek National Garden, Ermou Str, paintings and a large library. cafés and bars. and international designers, and Kolonaki, are located 2.2 Monument of the 1.7 Marasleio. among others, shoes, and in the vicinity of Syntagma leather goods, toys, old Square. You will find Unknown Soldier. An impressive neoclassical furniture, jewellery, house fashionable cafes and small Built from 1929-1932, building (at the crossroads ware. At Voukourestiou Str restaurants located here. in front of Parliament, it is of Marasli Str and Spefsipou and the surrounding area - The square is busy around a sculpted depiction of a Str), it is the work of architect in the vicinity of Syntagma the clock. At the kiosks slain soldier (the work of D. Kallias (1905) and houses Square - you will find world- you will find miscellaneous sculptor K. Dimitriades), the education Institute famous Greek jewellers, items, ranging from aspirin bearing an inscription with “Marasleios Academy of bookshops specialising in to souvenirs, newspapers and excerpts of Pericles' Epitaph. primary education”. foreign language editions, and foreign magazines. Commemorated on the 1.8 Taxiarhes major galleries exhibiting the THE SIGHTS: marble wall surrounding the Tour of Athens, stage 7 Tour works of Greek painters and monument are the greatest (the church of the Petraki 2.1 The Parliament. Monastery in Kolonaki, see sculptors. battles of the Greek army page 23). Dominating Syntagma after 1821. Greek and visiting Square, the building was the officials lay a wreath at 1.9 Gennadios Library. 2 residence of the first king of the monument on national Impressive building in the Syntagma Square is Athens’ Greece Otto. The building holidays. The monument is classicistic style, which was central square. The name of was constructed from 1836 guarded around the clock by inaugurated in 1926 to house the square is derived from to 1842. George A’, who two sentinels, called , the book collection (a total an uprising on 3 September succeeded Otto on the who wear the traditional of 26,000 volumes) donated 1843, of the people and the throne, also resided in the uniform. The ceremony of in 1922 by the scholar I. guard of Athens before the palace. During his reign, two the changing of the guard, Gennadios to the American then Royal Palace building, successive fires destroyed the which takes place every hour, School of Classical Studies (what is now the Parliament), building, making it unsuitable is worth seeing, especially on at Athens. In 1960 the demanding that King for use as a royal residence. Sunday morning (11 a.m.),

KOLONAKI, THE RIGILLIS AREA, METZ KOLONAKI, building was expanded. It is Otto grant a Constitution In 1924 the government when it is accompanied by surrounded by a large garden (Syntagma means decided to situate Parliament a military band and a large with lush vegetation (for the Constitution). Syntagma in the building. Reconstruction group of Evzones. library’s collections and books, Square and Omonia Square work was completed in 1934. see page 86). are the two central locations The interior was redesigned 2.3 , 46 of the city. You should not by architect A. Kriezis. In a luxury hotel, built in 1842. 47 SHOPPING IN KOLONAKI be surprised when you ask Parliament you will find The building, designed as a In Kolonaki you will find directions if people refer to national treasures, such as private residence, was the the most fashionable Syntagma square. Plaka, the the first Greek Constitution, work of Th. Hansen. Renovated

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51. The Greek Parliament dominating the east side of Syntagma Square. 52. The monument of the “Unknown Soldier.” 53. The hotel Grande Bretagne. KOLONAKI, THE RIGILLIS AREA, METZ Tour of Athens, stage 7 in 1874, it accommodated Gothic style and cruciform the palace garden - was laid of the Zappas cousins, who a hotel. In 1958 the hotel shape. out from 1838-1860. There funded the construction of was reconstructed to meet are six entrances: at Vasilissis the building, and an attractive increasing demand, and 2.6 Amalias Avenue Sofias Avenue, Irodou Attikou park, where Athenians go for several floors were added is a broad avenue Str, Vasilissis Amalias Avenue, a walk, especially on Sundays. to the structure. In 2003 connecting Hadrian’s Arch and two entrances connecting Near Mansion there the building was completely (see page 7) with Syntagma the National Garden to the is a very nice café and an renovated. The hotel is Square. An elegant street Zappeion. You will also find open-air cinema. connected to major events with stately neoclassical here a small pond, a small of Greek history. A multitude and modernist buildings, it zoo, the Botanical Museum, of notables and celebrities is located in the vicinity of a traditional café, a children’s 4 THE RIGILLIS AREA visiting Athens stayed here. the National Garden. As you library, a playground, various A prestigious area Worth a visit is the interior, ascend towards Syntagma monuments of antiquity, with luxury residential with a café and luxury Square, you will have a view and the busts of important buildings, villas and Tour of Athens, stage 7 Tour restaurant, exuding a unique of Parliament and, in the personalities of modern abundant vegetation. It is atmosphere. distance, Lycabettus Hill. Greece (among others, encompassed by Vasilissis politicians and authors). Sofias Avenue, Rigillis Str, 2.4 Ancient aqueduct. THE SIGHTS: Vasileos Konstantinou Avenue A section of the ancient 3 NATIONAL GARDEN and Irodou Attikou Str. The cemetery and Peisitstratos The National Garden, 3.1 Zappeion Mansion, area is located in the vicinity aqueduct, unearthed in the open from dawn to sunset, an attractive building of the old palace (now the northeastern section of the is an oasis in the centre of designed by Th. Hansen, it Presidential Mansion). square, is displayed in an the city. It has a total area was constructed from 1874- THE SIGHTS: outdoor, covered area. of 160,000 m2. Some five 1888. In the past few years hundred different kinds of some of the most significant 4.1 Presidential Mansion 2.5 Philellinon Str plants, bushes and trees from events in the history of the (Irodou Attikou Str). is a prolongation of various locations around the country have taken place The former Royal palace, Stadiou Str. You will find world are grown here (in total, in the “Conferences and three storeyed, bearing here attractive neoclassical it has 7,000 trees and 40,000 KOLONAKI, THE RIGILLIS AREA, METZ KOLONAKI, Exhibitions Mansion,” such pronounced neoclassical and buildings and, at the bushes). At the same time, as European summits, the eclectic elements (1890- crossroads of Philellinon Str, it comprises an important announcement of election 1897), designed by the Xenofontos Str and Souri natural life reserve in Athens results, and significant architect Ern. Ziller. Formerly Str, the Sotira Lykodimou as many different species political announcements. it was used as the residence 48 church (see page 22) and of birds, hedgehogs, turtles, Moreover, art exhibitions and of the heir apparent to the 49 the Anglican church of Saint ducks and even bats are occasionally concerts are Hellenic Royal Crown, later Paul (1843), the work of Ch. gathered here. The National held here. In the vicinity of as a palace, and in 1974 as Hansen, with elements of Garden – which was formerly the mansion are the statues the official residence of the

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54. Part of the National Garden from the side of Vas. Amalias Ave. and the distinctive alley lined by washingtonias (a type of palm tree). 55. Zappeion Mansion. Eight pairs of Corinthian columns can be seen on its forefront. KOLONAKI, THE RIGILLIS AREA, METZ Tour of Athens, stage 7 President of the Hellenic Statue of G. Karaiskakis, a construction, was made of return to the Panathenaikon Republic. The mansion is bronze monumental sculpture white marble. The horseshoe Stadium via Agras Str. guarded by Evzones wearing (4.40 metres high), by M. shaped stadium faces the a distinctive uniform. It is Tombros (1963-1966), National Garden. In 330 BC a st surrounded by an impressive depicting the hero of the stadium made of wood was 7 1 Cemetery 25,000 m2 garden, which Greek war of indipendence on built at this location. Herodes It is the oldest and biggest cemetery of Athens. Several contains 140 species and horseback. Atticus constructed a marble important personalities of varieties of ornamental edifice, which was the model 4.4 The Athens modern Greece have been laid trees and bushes; it is open for the edifice of the stadium Conservatory. to rest here (among others, to the public every Sunday that stands today. It was (10 am – 2 pm, entry from It is located at the junction politicians, scientists, artists, used as a space for athletic religious leaders etc). The Vas. Georgiou II St. upon of Vas. Georgiou II, Rigillis competitions, which took place and Vas. Konstantinou Sts. foundation of the cemetery presentation of identity). during the Panathenaea festival. It was built during the years coincided with the foundation

Tour of Athens, stage 7 Tour The stadium that stands today 4.2 Maximou Mansion 1969 – 1976 (designed by of the modern Greek state. has a capacity of approx. (Irodou Attikou Str), G. Despotopoulos) and it is a The design recalls the major fine example of the Bauhaus 60,000 spectators. It was cemeteries of Western Europe the official residence of the built in 1869-1870 and it was respective Greek prime minister, architectural style. There are in the early 1900s. It is rooms for teaching music, the venue of the first Olympic basically an outdoor sculpture it was designed in 1924 by Games in modern history Ant. Helmis. The mansion was , eurhythmics as well as display, with a stately and rooms for concerts, events etc. (1896). Surrounding the stadium constructed following the death serene garden, excellent The permanent and temporary is the wooded Ardittos Hill, of Helmis, by his wife, and her monumental tombstones, exhibitions of the National where locals love to go for a walk new husband D. Maximos. It built by some of the most Museum of Contemporary Art (www.panathenaicstadium.gr). has a small garden. important Greek sculptors of (see page 84) are housed here the past two centuries. 4.3 The statues. for the time being. Opposite lies the National Hellenic 6 METZ THE SIGHTS: The sculptures at the Research Foundation (1961 – junction of Irodou Attikou Str

KOLONAKI, THE RIGILLIS AREA, METZ KOLONAKI, 1975) a noteworthy modernist Koimomeni. (facing Kallimarmaro Stadium) building. One of the most fashionable neighbourhoods The most famous sculpture are among the most attractive of modern , made in Athens: the Discus thrower, a of Athens, was developed  PANATHENAIKON by Y. Halepas in 1878, for the bronze statue by K. Dimitriades 5 in the 1870s. It was named grave of S. Afentakis. (KALLIMARMARO) after the Metz brewery that 50 (1927), the marble Wood- 51 chopper by D. Filippotis, 1872- STADIUM was located in the area, G. Averof Monument. 1875) – gymnast V. Yiannoulis Panathenaikon [Panathenaic] and for a long time it was The grandest monument posed for the work – and the Stadium, a remarkable a popular recreational area. of the cemetery, built by the Until the 1950s Ilissos River sculptors G. Vitalis and D. Filippotis. The remains of the 56 went through the area (at present day Ardittou Str). national benefactor are here. Today it is a quiet residential Heinrich Schliemann area, encompassed by Monument. st Ardittou Hill and the 1 The tomb monument of Cemetery (along the Loginou the German archaeologist Str pedestrian zone). In the who discovered ancient Troy, central road of the area, M. made by Ern. Ziller (1892). It Mousourou Str, are cafes. is shaped like a church. On Worth seeing are other the groundwork are sculpted distinctive roads of the depictions of the Trojan Cycle. neighbourhood (among Chr. Zografos Monument. others, Nik. Theotokis Str, Trivonianou Str, Dikaiarchou Built in the renaissance Str, Balanou Str). If you take style, it resembles the Kleitomachou Str, Arhimidou Mausoleum of Lorenzo de' Medici in Florence. Str and Embedokleous Str, 56. The you will reach Varnava Nude Angel. Panathenaikon square. You will find here A remarkable tombstone (Kallimarmaro) cafes, traditional tavernas and sculpture by G. Vitsaris (1872), Stadium. luxury restaurants. You can on the tomb of N. Koumelis. FROM LYCABETTUS HILL TO STREFI HILL Tour of Athens, stage 8: narrow paths all the way to the Str. It is, after Plaka, the oldest top of the hill. neighbourhood of Athens (Neapoli means New Town). 1.1 Lycabettus Theatre. Neapoli and Exarhia were built An open-air theatre built after 1860. The first residents from 1964-1965 by the were mostly students. The area architect T. Zenetos at the is situated near the University site of an old mine following of Athens and the National the recommendation of the Technical University. Later it Greek actress A. Synodinou, became a favourite residential for performances of ancient neighbourhood of artists. The drama. It has a capacity of remarkable neoclassical church 3,000. In summer cultural of Ayios Nikolaos Pefkakion events are staged here, (1895) is located at Asklipiou attracting music and theatre Str.. Facing Lycabettus Hill, fans. is an area on a steep incline, 1.2 Ayios Georgios with pedestrian zone, lined with trees and steps leading (see page 23) to the central roads (among 1.3 Ayioi Isidoroi others, Solonos Str., Asklipiou (see page 23) Str., Ippokratous Str., Sina Str., Massalias Str., and Delfon Str.) Getting there. where you will find a multitude If you want to go by car, of cafes, small bookshops and there is only one road leading antique shops among other to the top of the hill. If you places of interest. prefer to walk, there are many footpaths. You may also take the funicular, which runs daily 3 EXARHIA to the hilltop and starts from An old Athens neighbourhood, the corner of Aristippou Str and with a special charm. It is known Ploutarchou Str (Kolonaki). as a residential neighbourhood Tour of Athens, 8th stage: of students and artists, with 52 a bohemian character, 53 FROM LYCABETTUS HILL 2 NEAPOLI contrasting with the worldly Neapoli is encompassed by Kolonaki Square. In the past TO STREFI HILL Lycavittos Hill and Mavromihali few decades, a series of LYCABETTUS rage and haste, the rock fell 1  57 (LYCAVITTOS) HILL in the centre of Athens. The rock, which is 278 metres It is a forest in the heart high, is located in the centre of the city, and among the of Athens. In ancient times Athenians’ favourite places the hill was covered by lush for hiking or relaxing in the vegetation and on its top local cafés and restaurants. stood a temple dedicated to According to mythology, Zeus. By the time Athens was goddess Athena wanted liberated from the Turkish her temple in Acropolis to occupation, Lycabettus be closer to heaven. One Hill had no trees at all. stormy night she went to Reforestation started in 1880 Mount Penteli (see page 90), and was completed in 1915. and took a large rock with the purpose of placing it THE SIGHTS: on the existing rock. As she transported the rock, two black The view of the city. birds approached her, bringing Don’t miss the view of the 57. her bad news regarding Acropolis and of the entire city Lycabettus something she had to take extending up to the sea. You (Lykavitos) Hill. care of immediately. In her will also enjoy walking along FROM LYCABETTUS HILL TO STREFI HILL Tour of Athens, stage 8: reconstruction works have considerably upgraded the 58 59 area. A multitude of important neoclassical, eclectic and modernist buildings are preserved. Following the renovation works, the neighbourhood attracted a new generation of residents. Go for a walk in the pedestrianised part of Themistocleous Str (from Themistocleous Square to Kallidromiou Str) and other pedestrian zones of Tour of Athens, stage 8: Tour the area, such as, Valtetsiou Str, Methonis Str, Eresou Str, and then rest in a café, bar or traditional taverna.

THE SIGHTS: 3.1 Exarhia Square is the central square of the neighbourhood. It is a busy square, with a vivid night life. You will find here a multitude of cafés and small, trendy bars and two open-air cinemas,

FROM LYCABETTUS HILL TO STREFI HILL HILL TO FROM LYCABETTUS offering unique entertainment in the summer. Also, in the 4 STREFI HILL It was planted with trees in a panoramic view of the the 1920s, until then it was city. To get there, you take neighbouring streets apart Strefi Hill is located in the from the restaurants and café- vicinity of Exarhia Square, and used as a quarry. Nowadays Kallidromiou Str, a beautiful bars, one would find particular one will find here sports street, with neoclassical 54 despite of its relatively small 55 shops selling clothes, old size (approximately 12.5 facilities, ouzo bars, an open- mansions and small popular records, books and hand-made acres) it forms a green oasis air theatre made of stone, cafés and bars, (from Emm. jewellery. in the densely built city. and at the top you will enjoy Benaki Str to Deliyianni Str).

58. The view 60 61 62 of the city and the Acropolis from the top of Lycabettus Hill is unique! 59. Lycabettus cable railway. 60. Lycabettus Theatre. 61. Enjoy your meal, your coffee or beverage while you drink in the view from Lycabettus hilltop. 62. Exarhia Square. FROM SYNTAGMA SQUARE TO OMONIA SQUARE Tour of Athens, stage 9: penal court of the country). It Hansen and modified by L. Tour of Athens, stage 9: houses now the Numismatic Kaftantzoglou. Formerly a Museum (see page 81). In the one-storey building, in the FROM SYNTAGMA SQUARE peaceful garden you will find mid-1860’s a second floor was a café-restaurant which stays added to the structure. TO OMONIA SQUARE open until late at night. 2.6 Bank of Greece Mansion 2.3 Archaeological (Panepistimiou Str 21). 1 SYNTAGMA SQUARE located here. The façade was Society Mansion. built in the Art Deco style. In A stately building occupying (see page 46) A five-storey building, it is the centre is an arcade with an exceptional example of late a whole block. The foundations shops. Recently reconstructed, classicism. The entrance is were laid in 1933 and the bank  PANEPISTIMIOU the building is now a shopping decorated with ionic columns. was inaugurated in 1938. The 2 centre and an office building. AVENUE (EL. VENIZELOU) Located at the corner of transactions halls recall the It also houses three theatres unadorned, stately atmosphere One of the oldest roads Omirou Str and Panepistimiou (Pallas, Mikro Pallas and Aliki), as Avenue, it houses the of the interwar period. of Athens, it was originally well as cafes and restaurants. designed to be a Boulevard Archaeological Society of (formerly called Boulevard Str). 2.2 Iliou Melathron Athens. THE THREE TEMPLES OF Today it is one of the busiest (12, Panepistimiou Str) 2.4 Catholic Church of LEARNING (“Athenian Trilogy”). roads, linking Syntagma is one of the most attractive Ayios Dionyssios (1853- Three stately buildings Square with Omonia Square. neoclassical buildings of 1865). constructed by two Danish On this broad avenue, a Athens. It was reconstructed The three aisled, cross- architects, the Hansen number of the most important, in 1879 by Ern. Ziller in the in-square style basilica was brothers, who lived in Greece. representative public buildings neorennaissance style. It was designed by the architects of Athens were built, unique the residence of the German L. von Klenze and L. 2.7 Athens Academy landmarks of the city. archaeologist and philhellene Kaftantzoglou. The portico (1859-1887): Hein. Schliemann. It has a THE SIGHTS: in the western side has five On either side of the double stairway in the northern cylindrical arches (it is located 2.1 Army Pension Funds side, while in the façade Academy, are two wings Building. at the corner of Panepistimiou decorated with friezes and and the other two floors, are Avenue and Omirou Str). A stately building occupying colonnades with ionic columns. a pair of high columns the block encompassed The interior is decorated with 2.5 Athens Eye-Clinic supporting the statues of by Panepistimiou Str, Pompeian style murals and (Panepistimiou Avenue and Sina Str). Apollo and Athena, whereas at the front side of the building 56 Voukourestiou Str, Amerikis depictions of the landscapes A stately building (1854) 57 Str and Stadiou Str, it was and finds from Troy. In 1927 with elements of Byzantine the visitors are welcomed built from 1927-1938. The it became the seat of the and neoclassical architecture, by the statues of Plato and royal stables were formerly Supreme Court (the highest it was designed by Ch. Socrates. The Academy was

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63. Iliou Melathron, also known as “Schliemann Mansion”. FROM SYNTAGMA SQUARE TO OMONIA SQUARE Tour of Athens, stage 9: designed by Th. Hansen, roof and encompassed by an 2.11 Korai Square 2.13 Arsakeion Mansion the younger of the Hansen Ionian style colonnade. (1846-1955). brothers. The statues were is a small, attractive square, sculpted by L. Drosis and 2.10 Cultural Centre of the developed when a pedestrian A stately two-storey the painted decoration was Athens Municipality. street was created at Korai mansion, it is a distinctive produced by K. Rahl. The Str. North-east of the square example of Greek classicism Located in the vicinity with a strain of eclecticism. Academy is thought to be of the trilogy (at Akadimias is the Rallis building (10, Formerly the Arsakeion Girls a prime example of Greek Str 50), it is a remarkable Korai Square) built in the early School, it is now the Council of architectural style. neoclassical building which neoclassical style. Opposite State, (highest Court of State). was built in 1835 according the Rallis building is the 2.8 University (1839-1864) Adjacent to the mansion is the to the design of Chr. Hansen. modernist building of the Courts Square. The University of Athens was It was a hospital in the course General Accounting Office designed by Ch. Hansen, the of decades. Cultural events (designed by E. Lazaridis). 2.14 Arsakeion Arcade elder of the Hansen brothers. are held in the building. In Northwest of the square is (Orfeos) Tour of Athens, stage 9: Tour Worth seeing are the fountain front of the main entrance of the remarkable former hotel in the court, the circular the building is a small garden Grand Hotel (2, Korai Square, The arcade in the Mansion, stairway and the multicoloured with the busts of historical today used as a shopping built in the neobaroque style, murals with classical themes figures (among others, artists centre). Opposite the Grand has a remarkable glass roof (designed by the Bavarian K. and politicians), while on the Hotel is the modern building with a dome in the centre. You Rahl), decorating the walls, other side, (at Solonos Str), of Alpha Bank. At the square will find here shops, cafes and located behind the columns on is a traditional café. Exactly you will also find the recently the “Stoa tou Vivliou” (Book the balcony. adjacent to the café (at renovated Korai Arcade with Arcade) with the bookshops of Akadimias Str) is the stately a multitude of cafes, fast food 60 Greek publishing houses. 2.9 National Library Palamas building (with a pink restaurants, shops, and Cultural events are held at the (1887-1902): Stoa tou Vivliou. interior, it is known as the a cinema. “pink building”). Built in 1857- A remarkable building, 2.15 Rex Cinema. planned by Th. Hansen. It is the 1859, it houses the Theatrical 2.12 Ionian Bank Mansion largest library in the country, Museum library. Diagonally (Pesmatzoglou Str). A mansion with three halls housing a unique range of across the street, (at the (cinema-theatre), built from thousands of books in all corner of Ippokratous Str and A remarkable eclectic 1935-1937, the design was languages. On the façade is Akadimias Str), is the Student style mansion with art deco influenced by contemporary a stately six-column portico Union of the University decoration (1925). The central American skyscrapers. (1926-1931), transactions hall has a notable Two halls are now used for 58 in the Doric style, based on of Athens 59 the design of Thissio. The designed by Al. Nikoloudis in colonnade and balconies. The performances of the National interior, designed by Ern. Ziller, the eclectic style of the Beaux lighting, a skylight with stained Theatre. The third is an FROM SYNTAGMA SQUARE TO OMONIA SQUARE SQUARE TO FROM SYNTAGMA is lighted by a skylight on the Arts. glass windows, is spectacular. entertainment centre.

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64. & 65. The neoclassical Athenian Trilogy on Panepistimiou Ave. (starting from the left): the National Library, the University and the Academy of Athens. FROM SYNTAGMA SQUARE TO OMONIA SQUARE Tour of Athens, stage 9: 3 OMONIA SQUARE Omonia Square. It is a busy it is a monumental church where periodic exhibits of the area, with small roads around (1871-1896/1905) built by Museum are held (see page 83). A central square, which Omonia Square and Kaniggos L. Kaftantzoglou. The recently At number 254, Tauros area is busy around the clock, Square and interesting places renovated three-aisled basilica stands the Civilisation Centre throughout the year, by contrast (small shops, traditional cafes has a stately façade in a “” established with Syntagma Square. Omonia etc.). combination of neoclassical by the Foundation of the Square has always been busy and renaissance styles, a Hellenic World (see page 86). around the clock. According THE SIGHTS: monumental entrance in the to custom, Athenians, after a 4.1 The National Theatre of form of an ancient propylaeum, 4.4 Koumoundourou night out Saturday evening, buy Greece (Ayiou Konstantinou Str). and an attractive interior Square (Eleftherias): Sunday papers at kiosks and Built from 1891-1901, decoration. An attractive square with stands on the square. Omonia according to the design of Ern. green areas. Facing Pireos is the oldest central square 4.3 Pireos Str (P. Tsaldari Str). Ziller, it was commissioned Str is the grand neoclassical of modern Athens. A visit to by King George I and funded Constructed along the path mansion which until recently

Tour of Athens, stage 9: Tour Omonia, to get a sense of the by Greeks residing abroad. A of the ancient road linking housed the vibrancy of the square is a must Municipal Gallery replica of the National Theatre Athens to . The Long for all visitors. At the square built in 1874 (designed by G. of Vienna, it is built in the Walls were constructed along you will find the usual fast-food Metaxas). Neighbouring the renaissance style. The theatre the side of the street. The shops. Foreign newspapers are gallery is the small church opened in November 1901. It first paved road in Athens, sold at kiosks. At the square are of Ayioi Anargyroi (1893). was formerly called the Royal Pireos Str links the city with Located on the square is a stately buildings, in particular th Theatre, but in 1930 it was the . In the 19 the hotels and small stone-built theatre, Bangeion renamed National Theatre. century an industrial zone was (at the crossroads which is used for events. Alexandros The central auditorium (Italian developed and a multitude of of Athinas Str, the former style) has a capacity of 1000 factories were constructed 4.5 Ayion Assomaton Str: Neon café, and a branch spectators (stalls, dress along the road. In the past few of the National Bank (at Notice St. George’s ornate circle, upper circle, and two years a multitude of factories Panepistimiou Str). At Omonia church (1910), designed boxes). Facing the theatre were renovated and used for Square is a central metro station. by E. Ziller, at the junction (at Menandrou Str) is the another purpose (museums, of Peiraios and Assomaton three-storey neoclassical cultural centres, the Higher Streets. The church used to be Eynard Mansion, which School of Fine Arts). The 4  THE OMONIA buildings at Pireos Str, a very part of the buildings housing SQUARE AREA accommodates a Museum dedicated to actors K. Paxinou busy street, are interesting an orphanage which were Stadiou Str, Patision Str, and A. Minotis. examples of urban industrial demolished in 1963. Past this Panepistimiou Avenue, 3rd 60 architecture. At number 138 point, take a left turn at Ayion 61 Septemvriou Str, Pireos 4.2 Ayios Konstantinos of Pireos Str one will find a Assomaton Str. You will find at Str, Athinas Str and Ayiou (Ayiou Konstantinou Str). modern building that houses number 45 one of the best- FROM SYNTAGMA SQUARE TO OMONIA SQUARE SQUARE TO FROM SYNTAGMA Konstantinou Str converge at Facing the National Theatre, the new known traditional buildings of Athens (picturesque classicist style, 1880), with copies of the 66 67 famous twin Caryatids on the balcony. The house, is among the most photographed and painted themes of Athens.

4.6 Gazi 66. A view (see page 38) of Omonia Square with 4.7 Botanical Garden of buildings of the Athens University: a variety of Located at the crossroads architectural of Iera Odos, which in Greek styles. means Sacred Road (built 67. Copies along the path of the ancient of the road of the Eleusinian Caryatids, Mysteries) and Sp. Patsi Str. at the small It has a total area of 7,000 house at m2 and there are some 120 45,Ayion varieties of trees and plants Assomaton and mosses and grasses from Street. different parts of the world. Str 337 and on your right the distinctive example of Athens FROM OMONIA SQUARE TO KYPSELI Tour of Athens, stage 10: Kypriadis neighbourhood (in Art Nouveau architecture. the vicinity of Papadiamantis 1.3 Tositsa Str. Square), formerly a garden city (with villas, two-storey blocks A wide pedestrian zone, of flats, densely vegetated) flanked by the National developed in the 1920s - Technical University and the suburban style has been the garden of the National preserved notwithstanding Archaeological Museum, with subsequent development. a row of trees in the middle, Tositsa Str is a place to relax THE SIGHTS: and stroll. 1.4 1.1 National Technical The National University of Athens. Archaeological Museum. A stately building Designed by the architect L. constructed in the late Kaftantzoglou, it was built from 19th century, the National 1861-1876. It is an archetype Archaeological Museum was of the urban tradition of designed by L. Lange and Athens. It comprises of a Ern. Ziller. The Ionian style central building and T-shaped propylaea are adorned with clay wings facing Patision Str. statues, the copies of ancient It has two floors and the works, while on either side entrance is elevated. Two is an oblong arcade. You will monumental staircases lead to find a café at the atrium and the Ionian style four-column another one in the beautiful propylaea of the ground floor, a garden in front of the Museum, copy of the northern hall of the where many Athenians like Erechtheion (see page 12). to hang out, especially in the summer. (for museum exhibits 1.2 Acropol Palace Hotel see page 75). (1925-1926). 62 A five-story building designed 1.5 Egyptou Square. 63 by the architect I. Mayiasis, An elegant square with the Acropol Palace is a neoclassical and modernist

68 Tour of Athens, stage 10: FROM OMONIA SQUARE TO KYPSELI

1 PATISION STR Art Nouveau and modernist (28th OCTOVRIOU STR) buildings are preserved. As 68. The you head from the crossroads National A central road linking of Patision Str and Alexandras area to the centre which until Avenue towards Patisia, on Technical th University the early 20 century was a your left isVictorias Square of Athens rural area with small houses (at 3rd Septemvriou Str), on has played a and gardens! Following rapid your right is the stately Higher decisive role development, it became School of Economic and in important clearly an urban location, now Scientific Studies, (1935), events of the one of the busiest streets of on your left theHara block Modern Greek Athens. Among a multitude of of flats, an pioneering work history. new buildings, neoclassical, built in the 1920s at Patision FROM OMONIA SQUARE TO KYPSELI Tour of Athens, stage 10: buildings, examples of the marble pedestal, erected in 2.5 Ayios Haralambos. several examples of stately formerly bourgeois character 1938. It is located at the neoclassical buildings and of the area, located at the central entrance of the park, The church was built in blocks of flats of the interwar crossroads of Alexandras facing Egyptou Square. 1928, in cruciform shape, at period are preserved, which Avenue, and Patision Str. the site of an old church. In are worth seeing. They 2.2 Statue of Athena the church are icons of the are located on distinctive (Promahou). important Greek painter F. roads of the neighbourhood 2 A monument dedicated to Kontoglou. (among others, Drosopoulou the British, Australian and Str, Eptanisou Str, Ithakis The largest park in Athens 2.6 Mavromateon Str. (230,000 m2), was laid out in New Zealand soldiers killed in Str, Tinou Str, Tenedou Str, 1934. Named after the roman the Second World War, it was An elegant road linking Spetson Str, Lefkadas Str). campus martius, the park sculpted in 1952 by sculptor the Archaeological Museum You will also find in Kypseli used to be a training ground V. Falireas. The marble lioness with Kodringtonos Str. Facing the notable churches Ayia for military units. It was at the base was sculpted Pedion tou Areos is a row Zoni (1927) and Ayios later changed and became by Ath. Limnaios. A small of stately, luxury blocks of Georgios (at the square of the Tour of Athens, stage 10: Tour thoroughly reshaped as one olive orchard was planted flats, most of them built in same name, 1931). of the most popular places in around the monument, while 1925-1960, when the street THE SIGHTS: Athens for strolling, relaxing reshaping works were under was thought to be one of the and having fun all year round. way in the park. most prestigious locations of 3.1 Fokionos Negri Str. There is also a maze shaped the city. A wide, stately, green like the Minoan labyrinth 2.3 Iroon Avenue. pedestrian zone linking with a botanical garden, a A wide, stately road in the 3 KYPSELI Kypselis Square to rose garden through which park with the busts of the Drosopoulou Str, Fokionos an artificial stream flows, freedom fighters of the Greek A distinctive bourgeois Negri Str is the centre of the surrounded by plane trees, Revolution. You will find it at neighbourhood of Athens, neighbourhood. Originally cafes, open air theatres and the Mavromateon Str entrance. Kypseli has preserved its called the “green boulevard”, FROM OMONIA SQUARE TO KYPSELI FROM OMONIA SQUARE TO places reserved for various aristocratic character, Fokionos Negri Str was events. 2.4 Taxiarhon Church. although in the past few built in 1937, at the site Post-Byzantine church of decades it has been rebuilt of a stream. In the 1960s THE SIGHTS: the 16th or 17th century. In the and is now densely populated. it acquired a reputation for 2.1 The statue of King court there is a monument In the 1990s a multitude nightlife, attracting politicians Constantine. with the remains and the of immigrants settled in and artists. A busy street 64 statue of prince Alexander Kypseli, transforming it into throughout the day, it is a 65 A bronze statue of King Ypsilantis (1792-1828), who a charming multicultural popular recreational area, with Constantine (1868-1922) was closely connected to the neighbourhood. Among dozens of cafés, restaurants placed on a monumental Revolution of 1821. the modern blocks of flats and small bars. On the pedestrian passage between 69 70 71 Sporadon and Zakynthou Str (42, Fokionos Negri Str) stands 69. & 70. the preserved building of the Pedion tou old Municipal Market (1935). Areos: The statue of king 3.2 Courts (former Army Constantine Cadet School). on horseback A complex of neoclassical (left) and the buildings, the courts are statue of Athena Promahos located south of Kypseli (right). (Evelpidon Str). The building was built from 1900-1904, 71. Densely (designed by E. Ziller), for the populated Kypseli Army Cadet School. In the area fits a tight early 1980s the Athens Court urban space. of First Instance moved here. However you will still find Between the Courthouse area good examples and the neighbouring Pedion of various tou Areos is the location of architectural Protomagia square where there styles of the is a skateboard track; the small past. green Finopoulos hill is nearby. HISTORICAL WALK Tour of Athens, stage 11: THE MINISTRY OF 4 THE NATIONAL 1 FOREIGN AFFAIRS GARDEN BUILDING Tour of Athens, stage 11: (5, ). (see page 48) HISTORICAL WALK The work of Ern. Ziller THE BENAKI MUSEUM (1872-1873), it belonged 5 (1, Koumpari Str). to the Syngros family before If you don’t have much time, in the historical walk (approximately being bequeathed to the Greek The most impressive 3.5 kilometres) you can visit and see the most important state in 1921. The neoclassical neoclassical building of monuments and sights of Athens. It is a walk through history, from mansion housing the main Athens, it was built in stages classical antiquity, through all the historical periods, architectural services of the ministry, has from 1910 to 1931 (designed by An. Metaxas). Formerly the styles, and successive phases of the development of the city to been designated a work of art. In 1985 it was linked to a later residence of Ant. Benakis, the 21st century (classical period, roman period, Byzantium, Turkish building, at Zalokosta Str. since 1931 it houses the occupation, neoclassicism, and 20th century). Museum exhibits (see page 82). In fact it is a walk in history, which only Athens can offer. 2 THE FRENCH EMBASSY (Psyhas Mansion). 6  THE SAROGLEIO A stately three-storey MANSION (Officers Club). ACROPOLIS VASILISSIS SOFIAS building at the crossroads of A stately building constructed (see page 9) AVENUE Akadimias Str). It was built in in the Beaux Arts style, it is The most impressive road 1894 by An. Metaxas for the located at Rigillis Square THE ODEION OF of Athens, linking Syntagma HERODES ATTICUS Psyhas family. It has notable (P. Mella). It was designed by Square to Ampelokipi. Formerly modernist decorative elements architect Al. Nikoloudis. (see page 9) called Kifissias Avenue, it connected to the neoclassical linked Athens to the traditional PLAKA style. 7  THE STATHATOS suburb of . It has in part MANSION. (see page 28) lost the original character of 3 THE ITALIAN EMBASSY A remarkable neoclassical BYZANTINE classic boulevard. However, it is one the most charming The residence of prince mansion (at the crossroads (see page 20) roads of the city, with some of Nicholas, before the expulsion of Irodotou Str and Vasilissis of the royal family in 1917, it Sofias Avenue), Stathatos OTTOMAN MONUMENTS the most attractive buildings, museums and parks. later accommodated a luxury Mansion was designed 66 (see page 24) hotel (“Le Petit Palais”). Later by E. Ziller in 1885. It 67 THE SIGHTS it was bought by the Italian accommodates the new wing SYNTAGMA SQUARE (from Syntagma Square to government to accommodate of the Museum of Cycladic (see page 46) Ampelokipi): the embassy. Art (see page 80). It is linked

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72. A general view of Vas. Sofias Ave. seen from Syntagma Square. HISTORICAL WALK Tour of Athens, stage 11: and exhibiting military relics Nikolaos (1876, neighbouring 73 and other national tokens the British embassy) is built demonstrating the history and in a distinctive neo-Byzantine struggles of the Greek nation, style, while Ayios Georgios (for the exhibits, see page 83). combines the Byzantine, classicist and roman styles. 10 THE RESIDENCE OF THE BRITISH 12 EVANGELISMOS AMBASSADOR. HOSPITAL (old building). Located at the crossroads A neoclassical building of Vasilissis Sofias Avenue and (designed by G. Metaxas) Loukianou Str, the building was Evangelismos hospital was HISTORICAL WALK HISTORICAL constructed from 1930-1932 inaugurated in 1880 by the (designed by An. Metaxas). then Queen Olga. Later an Tour of Athens, stage 11: Tour Formerly the residence of the English-style garden was laid then Prime Minister Eleftherios out in the yard. Venizelos, it was granted to the British state following his death. It accommodated the 13  MEGALI TOU GENOUS British embassy in Athens SCHOLI SQUARE. to the museum by a glass- some sources Chr. Hansen). before 1960. Following the A small square at the covered passage. Following the death of the construction in a neighbouring crossroads of Vasilissis duchess (1854), the mansion location of the new building Sofias Avenue and Vasileos 8 THE BYZANTINE AND was acquired by the Greek of the embassy, it became the Konstantinou Avenue. In the CHRISTIAN MUSEUM. state. It houses the museum residence of the ambassador. centre is the impressionist The main building of the since 1930. Two new wings 9-metre high sculpture of Museum is Villa Ilisia (1848), a were built in 1952 and 1994 K. Varotsos named Dromeas neorenaissance style building, (for exhibits, see page 83). 11  AYIOS NIKOLAOS AND (1988), sculpted exclusively constructed at the bank of AYIOS GEORGIOS. out of sheets of glass. Facing the then uncovered Ilissos Small churches in cruciform the square is the Hilton hotel river. It was the residence of 9 THE WAR MUSEUM. four-column style, Ayios (1958 – 1963), with elements A modern building (designed Nikolaos and Ayios Georgios of the international modernist 68 S. de Marbois-Lebrun, known 69 as the “Duchess of Plaisance” by Th. Valentis), inaugurated are representative examples style and engravings crafted The building was designed by in 1975, for the purposes of the architectural trends of by I. Moralis, a leading Greek St. Kleanthis, (or according to of gathering, preserving the late 19th century. Ayios visual artist, on the building’s

73. Ancient monuments lie 74 75 76 scattered in the National Garden. 74. The sundial on the west side of the National Garden. 75. The War museum; Kolonaki and Lycabettus Hill are in the background. 76. The yard of the Byzantine and Christian Museum. HISTORICAL WALK Tour of Athens, stage 11: west side (at the neighbouring THE ATHENS 15 79 streets, Ventiri Str, Mexi Str CONCERT HALL. etc. are cafés, bars and small restaurants). On the opposite A monumental work side of the square (at the (designed by M. Vourekas), crossroads of Vasilissis Sofias the was Avenue and Gennadiou Str) built in stages from 1973- are two remarkable Art Deco 1991. It is thought to be one blocks of flats of the interwar of the best concert halls in the period. Opposite the “Hilton” world. It has, among others, is the building of the National concert and opera halls, a Gallery- Museum Alexandros musical library, a conference Soutzos (see page 83), built centre, and halls for multiple HISTORICAL WALK HISTORICAL in 1966-1975 in the brutalist uses. In the winter, concerts, architectural style of Le opera, theatre and dance Tour of Athens, stage 11: Tour Corbusier. On the other side performances, and other of the street lies Rizari park events, are held here. An (covering a 24,000 m2 area), impressive garden surrounds one of Athens’ oldest gardens it where cultural events often and a fine spot for relaxing. take place. throughout the day. It is a hospital is the chapel of Ayios prestigious residential area, Andreas (17th century). THE AMERICAN 14 16 near Lycabettus Hill and the ELEFTHERIAS PARK. EMBASSY. central Vasilissis Sofias Avenue 19 TOWER OF ATHENS. A park with a statue of The most important example and . The first glass skyscraper of (sculpted of modern architecture Recently it has lost some of Athens (1971-1973) – one of by the sculptor G. Pappas). in Athens (1959-1961), its former charm as a result of a few skyscrapers constructed In the rear section are designed by the famous the traffic on the surrounding in the greater urban area of three stone built buildings, architect W. Gropius. streets. the capital. A complex of accommodating the Athens respectively two 25- and 12- Municipality Arts Centre and 18 THE IPPOKRATEIO storey buildings, the tower of the Eleftherios Venizelos 17 MAVILI SQUARE. HOSPITAL. Athens accommodates mainly Museum. Facing the park is Among the most “vibrant” A scheduled public building, company offices. In front of 70 a row of three unadorned squares of Athens, with a constructed in the 1880s in the Tower of Athens is a small 71 neoclassical buildings of the multitude of cafés, bars the neoclassical style. It has villa with a garden, a relic of hospitals Aeginitio, Aretaeio, and restaurants in the area, accommodated a hospital the 1920s when the area and Alexandra. Mavili Square attracts visitors since 1912. Adjacent to the (Ampelokipi) was rural.

77 78 80

77. The Tower of Athens, at the crossroads of Vasilissis Sofias Avenue and Mesogeion Avenue. 78. Rizari park. 79. Dromeas at Megali tou Genous Scholi Square (Vasilissis Sofias Avenue). 80. The Hilton hotel. SUBURBS SUBURBS Getting there. open daily from 08:00 am to The main road linking sunset. Situated along the Athens to the suburbs is coast are hotels with a view of During your stay in Athens you may want to visit the suburbs. In Kifissias Avenue. You can reach the sea. the suburbs you may go for a walk on vegetated roads, and relax at Maroussi and Kifisia online 1 In the coastal area of the a confectionery, café or bar. of the metro. bay of Faliro, (from Neo Faliro to Paleo Faliro) a huge THE SOUTHERN SUBURBS recreational and cultural park Worth seeing is the Goulandris (Faliro, , , is being planned, which will THE NORTHERN SUBURBS comprise the existing sport (Psihiko, , Maroussi, Natural History Museum ). (see page 87), the significant facilities built for the Olympic Kifissia). The southern suburbs are games, smaller venues for Archaeological Collection (see The suburbs of Psihiko, and located on the coast of the recreational and cultural page 125) which comprises , from Filothei were developed in Piraeus purposes, an impressive Roman monuments, grave to cape . Access the late 1920’s on the model Vouliagmeni aquarium putting on display stelae, terracotta and marble from Athens is easy (the of British garden cities. They the submarine species of findings, statues and busts southern suburbs are just 20- are quiet residential areas, the seas of Greece and from the area, open air 30 minutes from the centre). the Mediterranean, a birds with attractive villas, abundant cinemas and the Flower The southern suburbs are an vegetation and broad streets. garden, nautical facilities, all Show, which takes place ideal place to go for a walk of which will be connected by In Maroussi are the facilities every May in Kifissia Grove. by the seaside, and swim. an esplanade. In Trocadero of the Olympic Athletic Centre Some of the best restaurants, The best and most popular (P. Faliro) you may visit the of Athens (O.A.K.A.), the central confectioneries and cafes beaches of Attica, with clean Maritime Museum, on one of group of facilities for the of Athens are in Kifissia. water (see page 121) are the most famous warships 2004 Olympic Games. Kifissia Alsos Syngrou, (1,000,000 located here. The areas each of recent Greek history, the is perhaps the most elegant m2) adjacent to Kifissia and have a shopping centre with battleship Averof. You can suburb of northern Athens. Maroussi, a wooded area, is superb shops. In the southern also go for a walk, ride your The luxury villas of Kifissia an ideal place to go for a walk suburbs you can walk on bike or have a coffee or a drink of the 19th century were and relax. You can also ride the marinas, have lunch or at the Floisvos marina area raised by the oldest Athenian your bike or play basketball, dinner by the seaside, enjoy situated nearby. An exemplary families. The attractive villas volleyball or football in the your favourite water sports, playground, an open-air and vibrant shopping streets, fields near the building of or play golf, in a court with cinema and cycling tracks are as well as the impressive and Anavryta School. This is also international standards (18 to be found in Floisvos Park 72 73 very popular shopping malls the location of Agios Andreas, holes, par 72 course), located (P. Faliro). In Ayios Kosmas facing Kifissias Avenue have the only orthodox neo-gothic in Glyfada. The Glyfada Golf is a large seaside park. A turned the area into a hotspot. church in Greece. Club (tel 210 89.46.820) is metropolitan park with an

81 82 83 81. Old eclectic building in Kifissia. The building houses a modern shopping centre. 82. An impressive mansion of Kifissia. 83. There is a frequent bus and metro railway service running in the Athens north suburbs. 84 MUSEUMS

THE NATIONAL Museum also holds temporary ARCHAEOLOGICAL exhibitions and educational MUSEUM programs. We list some of the exhibits of the museum: The completely renovated

SUBURBS National Archaeological The golden mask of Museum ranks among the Agamemnon leading archaeological (Room 4). Although it has museums in the world. You will been proven that it is not the be impressed by the treasures mask of Agamemnon, it is a of the museum and will want noteworthy exhibit, well worth to come back for another seeing. Schliemann’s theory visit. However, if you come was mistaken – today it is just once, be sure to have thought to be the mask of a enough time. The museum king who died three centuries contains approximately before Agamemnon (16th 11,000 masterpieces dating century BC). In the gallery of area of 1,000 acres will be Square and runs along two th from the 7 millennium B.C Mycenaean Antiquities, other constructed in the area of lines: line T1 towards Neo to the 5th century B.C which the old airport (Helleniko). Faliro (terminal at the Peace than the mask, you can see are classified in 7 collections: jewels, golden works of art, Vouliagmeni is an attractive and Friendship Stadium) Prehistoric (Neolithic, Cycladic suburb with abundant and line T2 towards Voula swords etc, found in the royal and Mycenaean antiquities, graves of . vegetation, elegant villas, (terminal at “Asclepieio rooms 3-6 and 48 on the attractive beaches, the unique Voulas”). Moreover line T3 1st floor),Sculptures (rooms The Harper of Keros. Vouliagmeni Lake, and some follows the itinerary Voula 7-35), Bronze (rooms 36- (Room 6). It dates back to of the best hotels in Attica. – Neo Faliro, offering you 39), Egyptian Antiquities the early Bronze era (2700- Athenians visit the coast and the opportunity to enjoy a (rooms 40-41, of world-wide 2300 B.C) and is one of the have lunch at a restaurant or a unique trip along the coastal importance), Stathatou (room most ancient depictions of drink at a bar by the seaside. area. Also, you can reach the 42 with 970 works of art musicians of Early Cycladic idol southern suburbs by using bus mainly miniatures), Vases and sculpture. It represents a man Getting there. lines B3 (Akadimias-Glyfada, Miniatures (rooms 49-63 seated on a throne holding a 74 75 In order to reach these via ), 1st floor) andCypriot (room harp or lyre in his right hand, suburbs you may use the tram E22 (Akadimias-, 64 1st floor). In addition to with a raised head and slightly which leaves from Syntagma express line), et al. the permanent exhibits, the open thighs.

84. Vouliagmeni 85 86 lake has therapeutic waters. The geological attraction is the popular destination of the residents of Attica. 85. The in the Olympic Athletic Centre of Athens (O.A.K.A.). 86. The propylaea of the renovated National Archaeological Museum. MUSEUMS The Kouros of Myrrine’s oil-flask. The Horse rider of the god Pan holding an apple, (Room 8). It was a votive (Room 16). It is the main Artemission. while others claim that it is the offering of a sailor to Poseidon, exhibit in the hall, which (Room 21). The bronze statue of Perseus holding the dating from 600 B.C. It bears bears Myrrine’s name. It is statue of the 2nd century BC head of Andromeda (340 BC). a height of 3m in frontal sculpted on white marble and and a statue of Poseidon It was found in a shipwreck in position, with his left foot was discovered in 1873. It is were discovered in the vicinity the vicinity of Antikythira in forward. decorated with a sculpture of Cape Artemission. The 1900. representing Hermes driving horseman and his horse may

MUSEUMS Dimitra and . with one hand a young woman, have been smelted separately. The head of Hygeia. (Room 14). This attractive, Myrrini. According to the Notice the excellent depiction (Sculpture rooms). Discovered well-preserved statue from epigram located on her head, of the extended muscles of the in the temple of Alea Athena Elefsina was sculpted from the god’s purpose was to bring horse and the expression of in Tegea the head of Hygeia around 440-430 BC. It the woman to (god of agony on the horseman’s face. was apparently part of a statue depicts Dimitra giving hay to Hades). Three men, relatives of The Adolescent of Marathon. (350-340 BC), attributed Triptolemos, the young king Myrrine observe the spectacle. to sculptor Scopas. You will of Elefsina. To her right, her (430-420 BC). (Room 28). The statue of a recognise the head of Hygeia daughter Persephone gives youth was named after the The stele of Hegeso. (the goddess of health), her blessing. Notice that bay of Marathon, where it which has been reproduced in (Room 18). Don’t fail to see the Triptolemos and Dimitra was discovered in 1926. The photographs. have different sizes. In that the famous column (stele) inscription on the pedestal period artists made gods of Hegeso (5th century BC). It states that he is a boxer. Marble votive bas-relief. was discovered in Kerameikos taller when they were depicted Excepting for the left hand, (Sculpture rooms). Dimitra, (see page 17). There is copy with mortals on a dedicatory which is thought to be the Persephone and Asclepius. column - a sign of respect of of the column in Kerameikos. produce of a posterior repair, The sculpture depicts Hegeso Persephone stands to the left, the gods. the statue is thought to be a holding two torches on her seated, taking a jewel from a masterpiece. It is thought to The Poseidon (or Zeus) of right hand. In front of her sits box. A slave is holding the box. be the work of , or his Artemission Dimitra and to her right stands It is thought that the colours student (330BC). (Room 15). Is it perhaps a used for the background of Asclepius. To the right are six statue of Poseidon or of Zeus? the sculpture and the jewel The Adolescent of Antikythira supplicants who, according Archaeologists have not come are blue and gold respectively. (Room 28). Archaeologists to the inscription, dedicated up with an answer. The bronze On the upper section of the have varying opinions the sculpture to Asclepius and statue, a masterpiece of the column is carved the name regarding the significance of the two Elefsinian goddesses. Their names are carved on 76 sculpture of the classical “Hegesou tou Proxenou”. the statue. The main subject 77 period, is 2.09 metres high. Notice the artful depiction of holds a spherical object in his the pedestal encompassed It is one of the few preserved her melancholy expression and hand. Some archaeologists by crowns made of olive original bronze statues. the folds of her dress. claim that the statue depicts branches.

87. National 87 88 89 Archaeological Museum: the marble funerary column of a soldier running (Athens, circa 500 B.C.). 88. The room housing the “Horse rider of Artemission” in the National Archaeological Museum. 89. National Archaeological Museum: a Black Figure cup with a depiction of runners (circa 540 B.C.). MUSEUMS The statuette of Zeus. (Bronze • The mural of two children see extended remnants of supporting the roof of the rooms). The statuette of the boxing: Two children boxing. the ancient city, revealed southern balcony of the Zeus casting lightning from The child standing to the with the excavations that are Erechtheion (420 B.C). . Notice the stance of left wears boxing gloves and displayed under the specially- Apparently they were named the god as he prepares to cast earrings. Notice their almond- made glass floor, as well as after the women of Caryes (an lightning. It is the same as shaped eyes. significant finds deriving from ancient city of in the Poseidon of Artemision. the slopes of Acropolis. On Peloponnese), who are thought . Statuette of Pharaoh Savaka the first level there are finds to have been the models MUSEUMS (Room 41). Dating since A section of the from the Acropolis during the of certain statues. During 700 B.C, the Pharaoh is Archaeological Museum, Mycenean and Geometric era, the Turkish Domination the represented kneeling down with a separate entrance. exhibition of archaic items, Caryatids were also referred to with extended arms. His name (Tositsa 1) Displaying 14,000 architectural structures and as Petrified Princesses or the is engraved on his belt brooch inscriptions from Greece and sculptures from Propylea, from Maidens of the Castle. and he is wearing the crown of Minor, it is one of the the temple of Athena Nike and the Nubian Pharaoh. leading museums of its kind Erechtheion, as well as works The Moschoforos. in the whole world. Notice dating from the late ancient The exceptional statue of The exhibition of Thera. (Room the inscription containing period to the early Christian th 48). The main exhibits of the a bearded youth (6 century a resolution about klirotoi years. On the second level exhibition are the murals, B.C) is carrying a calf on [those appointed by lot], from you can find the restaurant, which are a valuable source his shoulders, a sacrifice to Salamina island - it is the the Museum’s shop and book of information on life in the goddess Athena. oldest political decision taken store, balconies with the view Aegean in the Bronze Age. of the exhibits on the main and Kritias’ Boy. They were discovered in in Athens (510 – 500 BC); worthy of notice is also the first level as well as a digital A statue of remarkable craft the Akrotiri (Cape) of Thera media area. Finally on the (Santorini). They are the stele [stone slab] containing a (480 BC, attributed to sculptor letter of the Roman emperor third level (Parthenon Gallery) Kritias) depicting a youth with earliest examples of large- are displayed the frieze, the scale painting in Europe. Marcus Aurelius addressing the wavy long hair arranged around Athenians (174-175 BC). metopes and the temple’s his head. • The mural of spring: pediments. The museum also Depicts a rocky landscape with offers an area for occasional Alexander the Great. vivid red lilies and swallows, THE ACROPOLIS MUSEUM exhibitions and cultural events, The Head of Alexander the some flying in pairs some on It houses priceless finds an amphitheatre, an internet Great which was found near their own. from the Acropolis monuments hall and an information centre. Erechtheion. It is speculated Some of the most significant • The mural of the fisherman: that represent its history that the statue was made by exhibits are listed below: sculptor Leocharis, after the 78 One of the best preserved and function as the most 79 murals, it depicts a nude important religious centre The Caryatids. visit of the Macedonian king to fisherman holding two strings of ancient Athens. On the The statues of the beautiful the city, following the battle of of fish. main level, the visitors can priestesses were used for Chaeroneia (339 B.C)

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90. & 91. The Acropolis Museum: Galleries showcasing exhibits from the Acropolis Slopes (left) and Erechtheion & the Caryatids (right). MUSEUMS The daughter of Antenor. Parthenon’s frieze, see: www. museum. In 1992 a new wing Neolithic Era until the end of The marble statue which parthenonfrieze.gr). was added to the Museum, at the Middle Ages), depicting dates back to 525 B.C. is the Stathatos Mansion (see the unique character of Cypriot famous for its monumental THE MUSEUM OF page 67). In the New Wing civilisation. A significant grandeur (2m high), its - you can see the Academy of number of the exhibits come expressiveness and austere NICHOLAS AND DOLLY Athens collection of ancient from the archaeological facial expression. GOULANDRIS FOUNDATION Greek art. On the basement collection of the scientific of the building at N. Douka foundation founded by the

MUSEUMS The Archaic Kores. The well-organised museum Str. you can buy replicas of Pierides family. was founded with the purpose museum exhibits. The statues of the maidens of housing the Goulandris who were dedicated to private collection of Cycladic THE ARCHAEOLOGICAL goddess Athena for a long Art. It is one of the leading THE NUMISMATIC COLLECTIONS IN THE period of time. No two museums in Athens. maidens were alike, their MUSEUM METRO varying hair styles and the Exhibits: On the 1st floor It is one of the five most The biggest excavation ever drapery of their robes give the you will find various relics of important numismatic in Greece was carried out at visitor the chance to admire Cycladic civilisation, while on museums in the world. It the time of the construction the development of the the 2nd floor are miniatures displays more than 600,000 of the metropolitan railway of sculpture in . and other objects of the same coins, “treasuries” (closed coin Athens (1993-2000). Some period. On the 3rd floor there collections), standard weights, of the approximately 50,000 Sculptures decorating the is a collection of antiquities of metals and precious stones, finds that were uncovered Parthenon (444-432 B.C). the Cypriot civilisation as well from the ancient Greek period, in these excavations are Creation of the sculptor as other temporary exhibits, the Roman period, Byzantium, exhibited in specially designed Pheidias, the sculptures are whereas the 4th floor houses the western middle Ages, and spaces in the metro stations unique masterpieces of works the collection modern history. Panepistimio, Syntagma, of art in the history of all times. of K. Politis and the permanent Akropoli, Evangelismos and Among others, one would exhibition “Scenes of everyday Monastiraki. find sections of the frieze life in ancient times”, where MUSEUM OF depicting the Panathenaean the visitor has the opportunity DIACHRONIC ART procession, the Olympian gods to get an idea about the public It is located in an old silk mill THE NATIONAL and certain metopes depicting and private life in ancient which was converted into the HISTORICAL MUSEUM scenes of the Centauromachy Athens by means of special multicentre for cultural events Located at Kolokotroni (battle of centaurs), the films and three-dimensional “Athinais” in the Square (see page 36). The 80 Gigantomachy (war of giants), virtual reality representations, area (near Gazi). The objects exhibits, displayed in 16 81 the (battle associated with the 142 exhibited present the evolution galleries, cover the period of ) and the Trojan objects belonging to the of Cypriot art over a period dating back to the last War (for information on permanent collections of the of 9,000 years (from the years prior to the fall of

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92. The Archaic Moschoforos statue in the Acropolis Museum. 93. Part of the archaeological finds which are displayed at the Acropolis metro station. 94. The entrance of Stathatos Mansion at Vasilissis Sofias Avenue. MUSEUMS Constatinople (15th century) Coptic Art. (see page 37). It is one of the school where the philosopher to the beginning of the World A large collection of fabrics, leading Islamic Art collections taught from 335 B.C. when War II; whereas the largest metalwork and woodwork, in the world. It displays more he founded it until 323 B.C.). part of the exhibition pertains representing the production of than 8,000 exhibits from Within the site there are to the characters and historic Egypt in the 5th and 6th centuries. Europe, the Middle East, remains of the gymnasium events of the Greek War of North , Persia and [athletic training grounds], Independence of 1821. Chinese Art. India, representative of the the baths, the Teaching Room Displays more than 1,300 development of Islamic art for ephebes [adolescents], MUSEUMS THE BENAKI MUSEUM exhibits (most of them were from the early Islamic age to Konistirio [Palaestra -small One of the leading museums donated by G. Eumorfopoulos), the 19th century. athletic grounds], Elaiothesion in Athens, the Benaki Museum representative of the Chinese New Benaki Museum [the Oiling Room-where is well worth a visit. It was civilisation from the 3rd (Peireos Street). athletes rubbed their body with founded by patrician Ant. Millennium BC to the 19th oil] and the Reading Room – Benakis (1873-1954) and It is a modern building Library. century (among others, vases, covering an 8,200 m2 area, inaugurated in 1931. It displays funeral statuettes, porcelain, 2 more than 45,000 exhibits of containing a 3,000 m space miniatures and semi precious reserved for exhibitions, an THE WAR MUSEUM the collection of Ant. Benakis stones). 2 and other donors, organised in 850 m indoor atrium and an On display are weapons six collections. N. Hadjikyriakou-Ghika amphitheatre that provides from the Stone Age and the Gallery. seating for 300. It hosts Classical Period to the World Greece at the Benaki mostly exhibitions of modern It contains works of art War II. Amongst them there is Museum. art. You will also find a café- donated by the famous Greek a siege machine with a bridge This section comprises restaurant. and a ram dating back to the various categories with over painter N. Hadjikyriakos-Ghikas, Exhibitions: The Benaki Hellenistic years, maps, flags, 33,000 works, representative and it is an annex of the Benaki Museum holds important military uniforms and the of Greek culture from antiquity museum. Housed in the building exhibitions in the central models of warships and aircraft to the creation of the modern where the artist lived for 40 years (at 3, Kriezotou St), the building or in its other that are displayed, representing Greek state and 1922 (the end buildings. of the Greco-Turkish War). gallery displays a representative the entire spectrum of Greek example of his work. history. In the front yard you Toys and Childhood. will also find characteristic Included are 15,000 old The Museum of Islamic Art. THE BYZANTINE AND types of artillery guns, as toys and children’s objects It is housed in a neoclassical CHRISTIAN MUSEUM well as various models of war from Greece and the area building complex dating This Museum can rightfully aircrafts, some of which you take pride in possessing one 82 of Greater Hellenism, from from the beginning of the can enter. 83 antiquity to 1970 – and 20th century, consisting of of the leading collections of Europe, America, Africa, and two residential buildings and Byzantine icons in the world. the countries of the East. located in the Kerameikos area Its exhibits, that represent THE NATIONAL GALLERY 1700 years of Byzantine art – MUSEUM ALEXANDROS and architecture (3rd to 20th SOUTZOS 95 96 centuries), include 25,000 It is the leading Gallery ecclesiastical objects from in Greece. The core of the Greece, the Balkans, Cyprus, collection comprises of 117 Constantinople and Russia, paintings, listed in 1878. Later classified in 11 collections: the Gallery was enriched by Sculptures, Mosaics, private collections granted 95. Murals, Replicas and the by Al. Soutzos, Eur. Koutlidis, National Loverdos’ Collection (includes and other Greek painters Historical manuscripts, woodcarving and collectors. A number of Museum: the crafts, vestments, portable important works of art, such portrait of icons etc). The Museum as the “Crucifixion” by Lorenzo Lord Byron. also hosts important Veneziano and a collection of temporary exhibitions and engravings of the 16th and 20th 96. runs educational courses. centuries were acquired by the Byzantine The surrounding area serves Gallery. and Christian as a park with an open-air Museum: amphitheatre, a gift shop, Well worth seeing are: icon of the a restaurant-café and “The Kiss” by N. Lytras 14th century, recreational facilities. The (drawn before 1878), “The depicting the grounds are connected to the Engagement,” by N. Gyzis archangel adjacent archaeological site of (1877), “Children’s Concert” Michael. “Aristotle’s ” (i.e. the by G.Iakovidis (1900), “The MUSEUMS Concert of Angels,” by reshaped in the 1950s, the Auerbach, Blake, Rustin, Pat St. (Plaka) you can visit the Domenico Theotocopoulos and Museum opened in 2000. It Andrea, Dado, Rego, Arroyo, permanent exhibition of the “Equestrian Greek Warrior,” by displays the works of Greek Adami, Diamantopoulou, Museum titled Men and Tools Eug. Delacroix (1856), “Port and foreign artists, and Moralis, Mauroidis, – Aspects of labour in pre- of ” by K. Parthenis holds important temporary Theofylaktopoulou, Botsoglou, industrial society. Both the (1911) etc. exhibitions. A full scale Byzantiou). Traditional Pottery Collection Exhibitions. The National renovation of the building which is housed in Tzisdarakis Gallery mounts periodic and the installation of the Mosque (see page 25) and the MUSEUMS THE MUSEUM OF GREEK Bath-house of the Winds (see exhibitions featuring important permanent collections are FOLK ART Greek and foreign artists, often scheduled to take place by the page 25) are annexes of the held in parallel with other end of 2013. The museum is The remarkable collections Museum. events. planned to open in the first of this museum are dated half of 2014. from 1650. Modern Greek MUSEUM OF THE CITY of embroidered items from all OF ATHENS (VOUROS- Greece. Note: Until the museum’s over the country are showcased EUTAXIAS FOUNDATION) main building is ready to on the ground floor. Small The museum is housed The museum is accommodated accept visitors, the permanent groups of pottery, wood- in two renovated buildings in a neoclassical building and temporary exhibitions carved items for church use (former royal stables) with a constructed in 1833 ( will be held in the Athens (weaving tools, wooden seals Vourou beautiful surrounding area Mansion, at Klafthmonos 2 Conservatory Building (see for use on the Eucharist bread occupying 6500 m in Alsos Square), which was used as page 50). It would therefore be etc) and figures used in the Stratou (district of ). King Otto’s temporary palace wise to contact the museum Greek Shadow Puppet Theatre One hundred and fifty Greek from 1836-1842. You will find th for specific information before on a traditional stage setting sculptures dating to the 19 here paintings and engravings th visiting. are all to be found in the and 20 century are exhibited connected to the history of the mezzanine floor. Temporary in the museum’s indoor and Greek capital, mainly from the exhibitions are housed on outdoor areas. Periodic plastic THE early 18th century to the 20th the . Traditional arts exhibitions featuring Greek first floor century. Moreover, furniture The only Museum of silver articles are on display and foreign artists are also belonging to the first King of Contemporary European on the and held. second floor Greece, Otto is displayed. Painting in Greece, the you will find a rich collection Frissiras Museum is housed of Greek folk costumes on NATIONAL MUSEUM OF in two neoclassical buildings the top floor. Other exhibits THE MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART in Plaka. The collections include paintings of Theofilos GREEK FOLK MUSICAL include paintings, drawings, INSTRUMENTS 84 Housed in an old beer Hadjimichalis, a major Greek 85 factory (, on Syngrou sculpture, and engravings of folk art painter and chiselled Accommodated in an Avenue) which was built in major European and Greek stones. In a 19th c. two- austere mansion built in 1893 and was thoroughly artists (among others, Hockney, storey building at 22, Panos 1842, at Aerides Square, the

97 98 99 97. The super-modern, impressive Tholos of the Hellenic Cosmos Cultural Centre a hemispheric virtual reality theatre where the spectator is taken on a stereoscopic tour of Ancient Greece. 98. & 99. Hellenic Cosmos Cultural Centre: main entrance is to the left and the café inside the atrium is to the right. MUSEUMS museum displays 1,200 folk room and an exhibition room. area. It is one of the biggest in the section are exhibited musical instruments of the F. Well worth seeing is the and best equipped digital oil paintings and engravings Anogeiannakis collection. Every collection of the personal planetariums in the world. connected to historical events, showcase has audio. You can objects of Lord Byron (golden The ultra modern projection and certain archaeological hear excerpts of songs played clock, laurel wreath, seals, etc). room has a capacity of finds. on the exhibited instruments. 280 persons, with specially At the shop you will find CDs, THE FOUNDATION OF designed reclining; interactive THE GOULANDRIS NATURAL selected books and copies of THE HELLENIC WORLD participation seats, thus HISTORY MUSEUM MUSEUMS the musical instruments. It was founded in 1993 for taking the visitor to a unique (GAIA CENTRE) the purpose of informing the virtual reality journey to the universe. It also has 1,800 m2 In this important Museum THE JEWISH MUSEUM OF public and preserving Greek of available exhibition space, you can learn about the GREECE history and culture by means modern congress centre and interdependence of living Founded in 1977, its of modern technology. The a scientific library. organisms. The museum collection comprises 8,000 Hellenic Cosmos Cultural displays rich collections of authentic pieces, photographs, Centre was established to insects, mammals, serpents, documents and archives that this end. Hellenic Cosmos THE VORRES MUSEUM birds, and shells, and rocks and refer to the 2,300-year-old presents, among other things, Six thousand exhibits, fossils from Greece. Moreover, presence of Jews in Greece. Greek history on the Internet representing 40 centuries of it organises seminars and Moreover this permanent from the Stone Age until Greek history, are displayed lectures and holds temporary exhibition depicts themes such today, digitally reproducing in the Museum. The area of exhibitions connected to as the Synagogue, worship ancient monuments and the Museum is 4,500 m2. It environmental issues relating vessels, the Synagogue spaces, projecting historical is divided in two sections. In to Greece and the world. calendar, traditional costumes, and cultural documentaries, the first section you will find the Holocaust, the cycle of organising exhibitions and a collection of modern Greek Gaia Centre. life, the history and tradition of educational programmes art comprising of paintings Recently, the Museum Greek Jews. and staging cultural tours by and sculptures of the late 20th opened the Centre of means of the Virtual Reality century. Thesecond section Environmental Research THE GENNADIOS LIBRARY systems: Tholos, Ark and Magic is housed in a complex of and Education Gaia. Visitors COLLECTION Screen. two traditional village houses are offered a glimpse of the The collection includes and a building, which was workings of nature. Educational valuable manuscripts and formerly used as a winepress. programmes are also held at books, documents, periodicals, PLANETARIUM You will find here household the building. The area of the 2 86 maps of the most important The digital planetarium objects, such as carpets, building is 12,500 m . 87 periods of . established by the Eugenides furniture, millstones, and Moreover, you will find here Foundation has a dome of ceramic art works from various For information on museums, a Byzantine library, a reading 25m in diameter and a 950m2 areas of Greece. Moreover, see pages 123 – 126

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100. The Vorres Museum. 101. The Goulandris Natural History Museum: a photo of Gaia Centre. DAY TRIPS IN ATTICA trail in the area of Ayios Spileo Panos. Merkourios, explore dozens (Cave of god Pan) is located of small caves, relax by the near Frourio Filis, it is accessible lovely Beletsi lake (on the east via a stream, by climbing a mountainside), and visit a rough slope. It was named lot of beautiful churches and after the Nymphs and god monasteries (Ayia Triada, Moni Pan which were worshipped Kleiston, Moni Ayiou Kyprianou in that area. 2,000 lanterns etc). At the location Bafi (alt. were found in the cave 1,160 m. tel. 210 24.69.050) and it consists of two halls and Flambouri (alt. 1,158 decorated with stalagmites m.tel. 210.24.64.666), two and stalactites while one can mountain resorts operate still see carved on the rocks offering a capacity of 50 since antiquity, the sockets for people each. The mountain the votive offerings. attracts climbing fans (locations Arma, Katebasma Mont Parnes Casino. Gouras, Flambouri, Korakofolia The casino is open daily and Megalo Armeni). Moreover, except Wednesdays. Visitors one can visit the luxury hotel should wear evening dress and Mont Parnes and try his luck carry a valid passport. Visitors in the casino. under 23 years of age are not allowed into the casino. THE SIGHTS: Getting there: If you Frourio Filis. use your own car, follow This fortress is located the National Road towards on the west slope of the and take a left turn at mountain. It was built during the exit. The road the 4th century B.C. in a leading to the top follows a strategic position with an picturesque route, with many unobstructed view, replacing turns. If you do not want to take your car to the top, park 88 an older one nearby. SE of the 89 fortress along the road leading at the foot of the mountain to Athens, there are still and take the funicular (tel. DAY TRIPS IN ATTICA visible chariot wheel tracks. 210 24 21 234). Buses

Greater Attica, an area of natural beauty, has been since antiquity 102 103 one of the most important cultural centres of Greece. With important historical and archaeological sites, unique Byzantine monuments, mountains, fertile plains and clean beaches – all easily accessible from Athens – Attica is an attractive destination for day trips, offering an escape from the busy streets of Athens.

1 MOUNT PARNITHA Athens. Mount Parnitha’s National Park has an area of Parnitha was first inhabited more than 300km2. It is home during the Mycenaean period; to 30 species of mammals it always constituted a key- (deer, hares, foxes, etc) and point in Attica’s defence, 120 bird species (many of 102. as it was the most fortified which are endemic). There are Climbing the mountain in ancient Greece. over 800 kinds of herbs and craggy rocks Being the highest mountain plants, corresponding to 17% of Parnitha. in Attica (1.400 m) and one of of Greek flora). 103. The the most beautiful mountains Walk on one of hundreds of slopes of of Greece, it is located 30 footpaths, take a mountain Hymettos. kilometres northwest of bike ride on a designated DAY TRIPS IN ATTICA number A10 and B10 leave Palace of the Duchess of THE SIGHTS: closed at mid-day (12:00- from Larissis Railway station Plaisance. Ayios Ioannis Kynigos 16:00). (Athens) and will take you to Impressive 19th century Monastery. the foot of the mountain in Asteriou Monastery. mansion which looks like a Located at the northern about two hours. gothic castle and was built for Located north of Ayios peak of Hymettos, with a view Ioannis Theologos, on a S. de Marbois-Lebrun, known of Athens and the 2 as the “Duchess of Plaisance”. wooded slope, Asteriou MOUNT PENTELI Plain, the monastery was Monastery is thought to The building which now houses th possibly built in the 12 th Penteli is a densely the Byzantine and Christian have been founded in the 5 century. Only the central century. The building complex, vegetated mountain with Museum was also built for her church (built of plinth), which springs and attractive (see page 68). From time to which has been preserved, has been modified, and the includes a four-side fort- locations. From the top, time, artistic events take place main entrance (13th century), you have a spectacular view style court, two wings with in the courtyard of the palace. remains of the old monastery. of the city as well as the buildings and a main church, However, you may find the The monastery accommodates Euboean Bay. Penteli is a building closed, due to repairs built in cruciform style, with a women’s commune. Access th DAY TRIPS IN ATTICA DAY well known source of marble, interesting murals of the 16 that are currently under way to the monastery from Agia as the Pentelic Marble was century. A domed cistern with (tel. 210 80.42.575). Paraskevi (open 8:00-12:00 the main material used for a fountain from the period Getting there. Take trolley- pm and 16:00-19:00). the construction of all Attic of Turkish occupation is bus No. 19 from Athens preserved. The monastery has architectural and sculptural (Vasileos Irakleiou Str, in the Ayios Ioannis Theologos marvels of the classical period. Monastery. been designated a historical vicinity of the Archaeological monument (open 08:00-15:00). The unique white colour of Museum) to Halandri Square, The monastery is located in Pentelic marble was well and change to local bus line the vicinity of the perimeter Kaisariani Monastery. known in antiquity. Pentelic 451Β and get off at bus stop of the suburb. You Built in the 11th century, the marble was an important Monastiri. Also, using metro can get there via Anastaseos export product of ancient monastery is located in an line 1, get off at Maroussi Str. The monastery was built idyllic location on the slopes Athens. Later it was used station and from there take on the site of an ancient in the construction of the of Mount Hymettos, near local bus line 446 (Amaroussio building (you will find here, Kaisariani suburb. According Panathenaikon (Kallimarmaro) Station – Penteli Hospital). among others, ancient column Stadium (see page 50), which to , the god st capitals, pedestals etc). The Hephaistos often came here. was the location of the 1 main cruciform church, is modern Olympics (1896), 3 MOUNT HYMETTOS The riverbed of the river , dated to the late Byzantine the sacred river of Aphrodite, 90 revived by the French baron th th 91 Mount Hymettos is located period (13 - 15 century). is located on a hill above the Pierre de Coubertin. The south of the Athens basin. The monastery accommodates locations Daveli’s Cave and monastery. The monastery was It is linked to the history of a women’s commune. It is built on the ruins of a roman “Dytikos toichos” (Western Athens. Sanctuaries have Wall) are ideal for climbing. For been built here since antiquity information contact the Greek (among others, the sanctuaries 104 Federation for Hiking-Climbing of Zeus and Pan). Moreover, tel. 210 36.45.904). in the western side were marble mines. Marble was THE SIGHTS: used for the construction of The Penteli Monastery. monuments in the Hellenistic and Roman periods. Hymettos 104. Penteli The wealthiest and biggest (or Daveli) has abundant vegetation and monastery in Greece, Penteli a large variety of fauna and Cave, in the Monastery was founded in southwest flora. In the past few decades, 1578 by Archbishop Timotheos. side of the the state has introduced mountain, near It is dedicated to the Dormition special measures to protect the Monastery. of the Virgin. A number of the important ecology of This used to buildings were added to the Mount Hymettos. Hymettos be the biggest original structure. Sections is a destination preferred by ancient marble of the original building were Athenians as proximity to the quarry and a later reconstructed. Recently a city and the beautiful natural sanctuary. Two multitude of new buildings were environment turn hiking into small 11th c. added for the monks staying at a pleasant activity while churches are the monastery. Visitors may see walking past archaeological located at the the original hospital, fountain finds and important Byzantine entrance. and some of the cells. monasteries. DAY TRIPS IN ATTICA and late . as a place of worship also in the Revolution it was refuge of see mosaics depicting saints Four columns of the ancient Christian period. Greek freedom fighters. and prophets. temple now support the dome The myths. According th The Botanical Garden. of the church. In the late 12 to mythology, the location Christ Pantokrator. th century and early 13 century Some 5 kilometres from was named after the ancient The central figure on the monastery prospered and the centre of Athens, you can temple and the laurel thicket. the dome is Pantokrator, became an influential cultural enjoy a walk in an area with According to another myth, encompassed by a circle and spiritual centre. The church 3 million pine trees, cypress Daphni was named afterQueen symbolising the sky, while of the monastery, dedicated to trees, fir trees, poplar trees, Daphne, whose boat was the golden font symbolises the Presentation of the Virgin plane trees, and oak trees. shipwrecked near the port of Paradise. Pantokrator’s face Mary, is built in the Hellenic Moreover, in the Botanical Eleusina. Queen Daphne was is austere. He looks at the cruciform style, and decorated Garden are thousands of birds saved, and as an expression people on earth and judges th with murals of the 16 century. and wild flora. It is the ideal of gratitude to the god Apollo, their actions. He is surrounded On the western wall of the yard scene for a long walk and she built the temple. The by the prophets of the Old you will find a spring. The water a picnic. You will find picnic temple was later destroyed by Testament.

DAY TRIPS IN ATTICA DAY gushes from the mouth of a tables and benches, after the . However, according marble goat. Formerly it was about 20 minutes of walking The Dormition of the to another myth, the place Virgin. thought that the water cured from Kaisariani Monastery. was named after the infertility. It is thought that it Daphne, who escaped to the The mosaic is half destroyed. has magic qualities. There is a 4  location from the god Apollo It is located on the western holy water spring in a sanctuary wall of the Church. Notice the Well worth your visit and was metamorphosed into on the northwest wall of the a laurel bush. angel descending from the yard. Kaisariani Monastery is an is Daphni Monastery (11 sky to receive the soul of the excellent starting point for a kilometres from Athens, THE SIGHTS: Virgin. He is thoughtful. His hiking trip. near suburb, the hands are graciously covered Athens – Corinth Highway), The mosaics. by fabric. Ayios Ioannis Kareas which is linked to ancient Daphni monastery is famous Monastery. mythology, the classical period, for its unique and beautiful Diomedes Botanical The monastery, founded in and Byzantine history. The mosaics, created in the 11th Garden. 1550, is located a few hundred Monastery is thought to be century. You will see them on It is located near the metres from the Kareas area. the most important Byzantine the walls, the dome, the arms monastery. It is the biggest The main church, a two-storey monument in the Athens area, of the cross, the roof and of its kind in the Eastern while the mosaics are thought the altar. Seventy-six of the 92 wing of cells and a small one- Mediterranean, with a total 93 floor building on the northern to be masterpieces of the subjects of the mosaics refer area of 465 acres. More than side is all that remains of the golden age of Byzantine art. to the life of Christ and the 3,000 species of trees and old complex. After the 1970’s Built on hallowed ground. Virgin Mary. Moreover, you can flowers, originating from Greece major reconstruction work was In the 2nd century AD, the done on the old monastery geographer Pausanias referred 105 106 and a new two-floor wing of to the Temple of Daphnaios or cells was built. It is a women’s Daphneios Apollo, located in a monastery (opening hours sacred laurel thicket, by the 08:00-12:00 and 16:00-20:00). Iera Odos (Iera Odos in Greek means Sacred Road), leading Panos Cave (Nymfolyptou). from Athens to Eleusina. The Located in the southeastern Goths destroyed the temple in area of the mountain (3 395 AD. Later, the Byzantine kilometres north of the suburb emperors banned idolatry. of ). It was dedicated to Pan. The Christians acquired the The deity was worshipped there location and built a church, from 600 BC to 150 AC. Worth using the materials of the old seeing are the unique sculptures temple. They selected this 105. and epigrams preserved on location because it was on the Kaisariani engravings in the rocks. The road to Eleusina, where the Monastery. most important is an epigram idolaters held the Eleusinian 106. Detail by the sculptor Archedimos. Mysteries. In 1100 a new of the unique Archaeologists researching the octagonal church was built. mosaics multiple finds (among others, The monastery was modified of Daphni clay oil lamps, stone offerings) several times before the Monastery. deduced that the cave was used 19th century. In the Greek DAY TRIPS IN ATTICA and abroad, are planted in the opposite coast (in ancient centre of the merchant marine, Museum is the Ancient 50 acres, while the rest of it Greek the word for «crossing industry and transportation. Theatre of Zea (4th – 3rd c. BC). preserves to a great extent its the straits» is dieperaiounto). The centres of Piraeus are its In the direction of Mikrolimano forestal character (free entrance That perhaps explains the three ports: the central port, you will see Votsalakia, a beach from 401 Iera Odos, tel. 210 origin of its name. Zea marina, and Mikrolimano. popular among the locals, as 58.11.557). well as Koumoundourou islet The architect Hippodamus THE SIGHTS: Getting there: From designed the urban planning of which is an important natural Koumoundourou (Eleftherias) Piraeus in the mid 5th century 1 The Central port. reserve. Square you can take bus lines BC. Hippodamus plans were The ancient name of the 865 (to Mandra), A16 (to Eleusina) used as the guidelines for 3 Mikrolimano. and Γ16 (to ). You the reconstruction of the city central port was Kantharos. At present it is the centre The port was protected will get off at Moni Dafniou in 1834. was by the goddess Mounihia [Daphne Monastery] Stop. To visit the first person to realise the of the city. You will find here ships to all the of the . At present it is a Diomedes Botanical Garden, take importance of the role the popular location, attracting bus lines 865 and A16 and get city could play for Athens. He Saronic Gulf, the (excepting the Sporades) and people from all over Attica. DAY TRIPS IN ATTICA DAY off at Diomideios Stop. made Piraeus Athens’s leading It is a beautiful little harbour port, relegating the Bay of . Walk around and look at the passenger and freight with fishing boats, small 5 PIRAEUS (PIREAS) Faliro, which the Athenians boats and luxury yachts. If you used before the 5th century ships, and the arrivals and departures of merchandise and like fish and seafood, have Most people have heard at BC. Seeking to develop a lunch or dinner at one of its least once the song “The youth fortified port for the city of people from the entire world. On Vasiliades Coast the new famous tavernas. Within a of Piraeus,” composed by M. Athens, from 493 to 479 BC short distance lies the Peace Hadjidakis, with modern building of the Ministry he built the wall of Piraeus. and Friendship Stadium sports singing in the film “Never on of Shipping, is erected. In the Later Pericles completed the arena, surrounded by areas of Sunday.” However, many people Freatyda area parts of the fortification, building theLong greenery and recreation. don’t know the place, which the Walls, which protected both ancient Walls of Piraeus (the film and the movie made famous sides of the road from Piraeus coastal section) are preserved. 4 Kastella. – the city and port of Piraeus. to Athens. In the Middle Ages, Zea marina Piraeus was named Porto 2  An elegant and popular The history of Piraeus. Leone, after a giant stone (Pasalimani). neighbourhood of Piraeus, Piraeus is washed almost lion, guarding the entrance Impressive yachts and cruise built on a hill also known as on all sides by the sea and of the harbour. Today it is ships anchor in this marina. At Profitis Ilias named after the the main port of Athens, the the seafront are restaurants, church which lies in a copse on 94 the way of life is linked to the 95 water. In prehestoric times it biggest port in Greece, one tavernas, bars and shops. the hilltop. Walk to the top of was an island and men used of the leading ports in the Adjacent to the Archaeological the hill, and admire the alleys to cross the straits to reach Mediterranean, an important with picturesque houses. The

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107. A view of Piraeus main port area. DAY TRIPS IN ATTICA view of the main port, Zea Vyzantios and others) are on of tomb sculptures (room 6) route to Sounio follows the and Mikrolimano is unique. display. and the monument of coastline of the Saronic Gulf In the area is the open-air bearing a height of 7m (rooms passing through the tourist theatre Veakeio, which hosts 6 The I.S.A.P. station 7-8). resorts of , Ayia Marina, important cultural events (Pireas metro station). Lagonissi, Saronida, Anavissos, 8 The Nautical Museum. Legrena et al. Look out of the in summer. There is also The stately eclectic building window of your car or bus and Sirangio cave (further up with the arched dome (1929), It is the largest museum of you will enjoy the sparkling Votsalakia beach) which used replicates the relevant its kind in Greece, covering blue sea. If you travel by car, to be a sanctuary and an European stations of the an area of 1,850 m2. The you can stop and go for a Asclepieion [healing temple period. Recently the interior Nautical Museum is located at swim in an organised beach sacred to the god Asclepius]. was completely renovated. On Akti Moutsopoulou. Its exhibits or in one of the beautiful little one of the walls are displayed cover about 3,000 years of bays located at many places The Municipal the works of the students of Greek nautical history. 5 on your way. You will also find Theatre. the School of Fine Arts. Directions. You can take the here a multitude of cafes, line 1 of the metro and get off

DAY TRIPS IN ATTICA DAY It dominates one of the The Archaeological tavernas serving fresh fish and central squares (Korai Square). 7 at the stop “Pireas.” There are Museum. ouzo restaurants. It was built in the 1890s bus lines from Athens to Akti in the neoclassical style by It features mostly sculptures Xaveriou in Piraeus. One line THE SIGHTS: architect I. Lazarimos and has found in Piraeus at the has its terminus at Syntagma The Temple of Poseidon. a horseshoe shaped, Italian coast of Attica. The exhibits, Square (number 040) and another line has its terminus style hall (pit, galleries and presented in 10 halls, relate At this site the ancient at Athinas Str in the Omonia balconies) of total capacity to the history, and the rise Greeks worshipped the god of and fall of the ancient city. Square area (number 049). of 1,300 spectators. The the sea, Poseidon. Preserved Notice the bronze trident- are 16 Doric style columns outside area is one of the shaped piston of a trireme, the (originally there were 38). The most frequented places, a 6 SOUNIO metrological bas-relief (room temple was built in 448-440 meeting place of residents 1), the four rare bronze statues The sanctuary of Sounio (the B.C., during the Golden Age of Piraeus. Within a short discovered in Piraeus in 1959 famous temple of Poseidon of Pericles on the ruins of an distance (at the junction of (the Archaic Kouros Apollo, two is here) is one of the most earlier one built of limestone. Filonos and Karaoli-Dimitriou statues of Artemis, Athena of important ones in Attica. The architect is unknown. Sts.) is the location of the Piraeus with a height of 2.35 Situated at a unique site (cape However, it is thought that Municipal Gallery housed in a m), the bronze, ancient tragedy Sounio) the sanctuary is one it is the same architect who 96 97 neoclassical building, where mask of the 4th century BC of the major sights of Greece. designed Theseion (see page works of art by leading Greek (Rooms 3-4), the sanctuary of It is one hour’s drive from the 15). artists (N. Lytras, M. Axelos, P. Cybele (room 5), the collection centre of Athens (69 km). The Its dimensions were 31.12

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108. Zea harbour (or Pasalimani) is one of the central locations of the city of Piraeus. 109. & 110. The building (left) and the restored platform area (right) in the Piraeus metro station. DAY TRIPS IN ATTICA x 13.47m.; it had a frieze with neoclassical houses and parts of the settlement, of its older attributes, such a sculpted decoration above mansions, which was famous metal work facilities, a as the aristocratic houses the architrave of the vestibule. in antiquity for its silver and 4th century B.C. tower, of the early 20th century Following an examination of bauxite mines. The mines cemeteries and a sanctuary (mainly on Pangalou Str and the finds unearthed in the area of Lavrio closed in the late of goddess . In the Nicolaidou Str), as well as the archaeologists have deduced 1970s. The Technological area encompassed by Lavrio neighbourhoods with one- that Poseidon was worshipped Cultural Park of Lavrio was and Sounio is the Sounio storey houses and the old here before the 5th century BC. built in the town outskirts, National Park, with natural industrial buildings. The district past the Palm Forest and archaeological and cultural around the harbour, where The temple of goddess the old neighbourhoods of attractions. ruins of the ancient breakwater Athena. Santorineika and Kyprianos. Getting there. Two bus are preserved, is also of Worth your visit is the The park includes industrial lines link Sounio to Athens: interest. However, uninitiated units dating to the 1875- temple of Athena Sounia, one route via, the coastal visitors will not appreciate its 1940 period. It is now located at a distance of 400 road of Varkiza and Legrena, glorious past, the history and a museum and it also metres from the temple of and another via the inland of the mythology regarding the

DAY TRIPS IN ATTICA DAY hosts cultural events. The Poseidon. You will find here Attica, namely , local gods, the deities and the Archaeological Museum, the substructures of two and Lavrio. The worship thereof. located at 1, Andr. Kordelas terminus of both bus lines temples: a large temple St., housing finds from that is located at Mavromataion Demeter and Persephone. built at around 470 BC or area (Sounio, Thorikos etc) Str in the vicinity of Pedion The citizens of Eleusina during the Peloponnesian and the Mineralogy Museum tou Areos in Athens (tel. 210 worshipped Demeter, the War (431-404), and a small (Iroon Polytechneiou) are 82 30 179). Moreover, travel goddess of nature, spring temple. Archaeologists have worth your visit. By the fish agents organise day trips to and agriculture. The myth of diverging opinions regarding market (Iroon Square) and the temple of Poseidon. Demeter and her daughter the small temple: some believe along the seafront there are Persephone is, like most myths, it is the ruin of an old temple many traditional coffee shops allegorical. It refers to the dedicated to Athena, and built and fish tavernas serving 7 ELEUSINA () rebirth of plant life, following in the period 600-550 BC, a variety of delicacies, as Located 23 kilometres west its “death” in winter, and the other believe the temple was well as small café-bars. of Athens, it was founded in eternal longing for immortality. dedicated to Artemis. Some 4 kilometres north of the 2nd millennium BC; the According to a hymn of the 7th Lavrio is the archaeological sanctuary became pan- century B.C., one day the earth 6.1 Lavrio. site of Thorikos, οne of the Hellenic in the 8th century BC. opened up in two, Plouton, Located approximately 10 oldest settlements of Attica. Today, the city has mainly the god of the underworld 98 99 kilometres northeast of Sounio Excavations have revealed industrial character with appeared, and seized the is Lavrio, a small picturesque the most ancient theatre obvious however indications young Persephone. He took her town with a multitude of within the Hellenic territory, to his kingdom and made her

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111. Sounio: The ruins of the temple of Poseidon. 112. Entrance to the sanctuary at Eleusis was forbidden to the non- initiated for many centuries. DAY TRIPS IN ATTICA his wife. Her mother looked of Demeter by thousands of The Archaeological Museum. 2nd century A.D. it is a 50m. for her in despair. She looked people over 15 centuries. The long bridge made of stone and Displayed at the Museum for her nine days and nights, Great had it was part of the Sacred Way. of Eleusina are the finds of without success. She arrived their starting point in Eleusina. Also, in central parts of the the digs of the sanctuary despairing at the doorstep The remarkable procession city, sections of the Roman and the western cemetery. of the palace of Keleos, king moved on to Athens through Aqueduct (125 A.D.) are Worth seeing is the Early-Attic of Eleusina. She became the the Sacred Way and headed preserved. Amphora of Eleusina (650 BC). nurse of his son, not revealing by the priestess and the The neck of the amphora is that she is a goddess. When 7.1 Archaeological sacred symbols of the worship decorated by a depiction of her real identity was revealed, Museum of . of Demeter. The Mysteries the blinding of the Cyclops she requested that a temple were concluded with Polyphimos by Ulysses. On the 21 km. west of Eleusina is the be built in her honour. She ceremonies in honour of the main body of the amphora, town of Megara. A significant remained in the temple, dead. After the ceremony, Perseus beheads Medousa. town in antiquity, it is the devastated by the loss of her Athenians returned to Athens. Also worth seeing is the Kori birthplace of Euclides, daughter. The following year, The Eleusinian mysteries were Theognes and Eupalinos. th from the pediment of the Ieri DAY TRIPS IN ATTICA DAY not a seed grew on the world. abolished in the 4 century Oikia (Ieri Oikia in Greek means Its decline started with the Zeus was worried. He sent BC by the Byzantine emperor Sacred House) (490-480 BC). end of the Peloponnesian Hermes to appeal to Plouton. Theodosios. It is the statue of a running War. Its interesting A compromise was reached: maiden, her head turned to archaeological museum Persephone would remain in THE SIGHTS: the left. houses terracotta and the kingdom of Plouton 1/3 marble findings from the of the year, and the remaining The Archaeological site. West Cemetery. greater area, covering the time she could stay with her chronological period from During your visit, bear in Located near the archaeological the 6th century B.C. till the mother. Overjoyed, Demeter mind that the greater part of site, it was the most significant allowed the plants and flowers Roman era. Among the most the area was avaton – a place necropolis of the ancient city. important exhibits are the to grow, and the earth became inaccessible to the uninitiated A conglomeration of prehistoric fruitful again. terracotta bust of Demeter - for many centuries. Worth graves, presumably belonging (5th century B.C.), a terracotta seeing are the remains of to the personage of the tragedy th The Mysteries of Eleusina. female bust (5 cent. B.C.), the Telestirion (ceremonial Hepta epi Thébas (Seven a spout with the shape of a The Eleusinian mysteries chamber), also known as the against Thebes). lion’s head (around 350 B.C.), were named mysteries Iero ton Mystirion, located in a female statue wearing a because the most important the centre of the area, the Ieri Roman Bridge. peplos - veil (325-300 B.C.), 100 101 part of the event, involved Avli (Sacred Courtyard), the Located on the east entrance et al. It is worth visiting intense mysticism. We don’t Great and Small Propylaea, of the city (near the highway the fountain of Theagenis, know much about the worship and Ploutoneio. Athens-Corinth). Dating to the an impressive building

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113. View of the sanctuary of Eleusis. 114. & 115. Eleusis Archaeological Museum: left, a marble statue in the round wearing a toga (2nd half of 1st c. AD); right, the “Fleeing Kore”. DAY TRIPS IN ATTICA containing water supply pipes boas, crocodiles, etc; the by fields, vineyards, olive Following the victory, Feidippidis, dating to 500 BC; it is close Greek Fauna featuring rare groves, wild vegetation, as an Athenian soldier, was sent to the town’s central square. animals of Greece such as well as man-made Lake to bring the good news to Getting there. If you travel brown bears, wolves, wild Marathon with its impressive the city. He ran all the way by car, take the Athens- cats, the eurasian lynx, otters dam with marble coating, from the field of battle to the Corinth National Road. The etc; the African Savanna built in 1929. In the vicinity Market of Athens. He said one bus to Eleusina (number (giraffes, zebras, antelopes, you will find many beautiful word: Nenikikamen (we have A16 and B16) has its jaguars, snow leopards, white beaches where you can swim won), collapsed and passed terminus at Koumoundourou lions, etc); the section with and sunbathe. The most away. In memory of the event, Square in Athens. There the monkeys and apes and famous beach is Schinias (an the modern Marathon covers is a long distance bus line the Forest of Monkeys where exceptionally beautiful location the distance Feidippidis ran, (K.T.E.L.) running to Megara visitors share the same space which has been declared a and is symbolised in the with monkeys; the felines town, which leaves from National Park), which has a opening ceremony of the section (tigers, servals, ocelots, Thissio Metro Station (tel. pine forest bordering on the Olympic Games. 210.32.44.448). You can also etc); the section with the sandy shore. You can combine use the Suburban Railway (for hippopotamuses, alligators, a visit to Marathon with a visit DAY TRIPS IN ATTICA DAY info see page 122). etc. The zoo is open daily from to the archaeological area of THE SIGHTS: 9:00 a.m. until sunset. Ramnounda (12 kilometres ATTICA ZOOLOGICAL from Marathon). The Monument (Tomb) 8 Getting there. By bus of Marathon. PARK () (No 319 from Doukissis One of the largest zoos Plakentias metro station). The . Adjacent to the ancient By car via the battle field, at a distance in the Balkans spreading The main source of 2 Motorway, exit 18 with of one kilometre from across 128,000 m in the information regarding the direction to Spata (from the Marathon’s beach, you will area of Yialou (Spata) is at a battle of Marathon is the 15km distance NE of Athens. airport) and exit 16P with ancient historian Herodotus. find a unique monument A visit there is a unique direction to (from (Tomb), 9m. tall and 50m. in Eleusina). According to Herodotus, the experience especially for diameter, of the 192 Athenian children. It consists of: the Persian fleet disembarked 116. 9 MARATHON 100,000 troops in Marathon soldiers who were killed in The large 9m. Ornithological Park boasting this famous battle. Nearby (at the third largest collection in 490 BC. Facing this high Marathon Well worth your visit is Mesosporitissa), the replica of birds worldwide (1500 immense army were just tumulus Marathon, with an archaeological of the tropaion (trophy) birds from 300 different area and museum. Marathon 11,000 Greek troops (10,000 [Tymbos] erected by the Athenians which was species), farm animals and is one of the most beautiful were from Athens and 1,000 102 following the victorious battle 103 erected for large cages-miniatures of locations in Attica. The journey from Plataiai). The Greeks, the interment three ; the World to Marathon is a very pleasant thanks to the military genius is found (fragments of the of the 192 of Reptiles with pythons, one. On your way you will pass of , won the battle. original are displayed at the Athenian warriors who 116 117 118 died in the victorious battle of the Athenians over the Persians in 490 BC. 117. & 118. The Marathon Archaeological Museum: left, clay vase of the Neolithic period from the Cave of Pan (); right, part of the memorial Stele erected in the Marathon plain following the victory of the Athenians. DAY TRIPS IN ATTICA Archaeological Museum of from Plataiai who fell in the was dedicated to Themis, and later in the siege of Marathon). battlefield. the goddess of Justice. Thebes by the Argeans where Both temples were built Zeus himself intervened The Archaeological The Marathon Run Museum in the 5th century BC. The saving Amphiaraos’s life. Museum of Marathon. in Marathonas town. remains of a fort, theatre, The most important temple Exhibited items were donated funerary monuments, among dedicated to Amphiaraos is The museum is small. It to Marathonas town by the others, are preserved. This Amphiareion, located in a houses exhibits from nearby Olympic Museum of Lauzanne archaeological site commands gorge on the border of Attica towns, as well as other periods and are on display in two a unique view of and and . An ancient and locations. Important finds buildings. Building A shows the Euboean Gulf (Gulf of theatre with a capacity of of the Neolithic Age, such as the history of the Olympic Evoikos). 3,000 dominates the area. the finds discovered at the Marathons through texts, Notice the five white marble cave of Pan in Oinoi, and a photographs and other seats around the scene, collection of columns, thought Getting there. You can take exhibits; building B contains the bus to Paralia Marathona, with sculpted decoration to have been built in the 2nd exhibits regarding Olympic from Mavromataion Str and epigraphs. The temple DAY TRIPS IN ATTICA DAY century BC, bas-relief portraits Medal Winners, Marathon (Aigyptou Square) near Paidio is located in the vicinity of a and inscriptions coming from Cities, female participations in tou Areos. Tel. 210 82 10 872. spring, mentioned in the myth the Epavlis (mansion) of the Marathon etc. of Amphiaraos. It was built Herodes Atticus (2nd century in the Doric style in the 4th A.D.) found close by, are also Ramnous (Kato ). 10 AMPHIAREION century BC. Most of the ruins th on display. Also exhibited are The name of the area in the area were dated to 6 finds from the Early Helladic is derived from the word Amphiaraos is one of the century BC. (3000-2300 B.C.) cemetery ‘ramnos’, the name of a less known deities of ancient found at Tsepi location, the variety of bushes which mythology. Nevertheless, Getting there. Amphiareion nd Egyptian sanctuary of Isis (2 cover the area. In antiquity, he was popular enough to is located 48 kilometres century A.D.) and the Roman Ramnous was known for have twelve temples and from Athens. If you have a valaneion (circular bath, 2nd-4th its port and fort. In the sanctuaries dedicated to him. car, take the Athens-Lamia Century A.D.) found atBrexiza archaeological area are the His popularity was attributed National road, and turn right location. Next to the museum, ruins of two temples. The to his powers as a healer and on the road to . Two in a sheltered area there is a Great temple was dedicated a seer. According to myth, he bus lines link Athens to Mid-Hellenic cemetery (2000- to , the goddess of was not born, but emerged Oropos, both with a stop in 1300BC) and in proximity Divine Justice (it was the from a spring, located near the vicinity of the Amphiareion 104 there is Tymbos ton Plataieon most important sanctuary his temple, in the vicinity of archaeological area. Walk 105 (tomb of Plataiai locals) which of the goddess in ancient Oropos. He participated in the another 3 kilometres from the includes 11 graves of warriors Greece). The small temple expedition of the , bus stop to the archaeological

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119. Theatre at Amphiareion archaeological site. 120. Vravrona: at Arkton Collonade resided young girls dedicated to the goddess Artemis. DAY TRIPS IN ATTICA site. Two alternative bus lines Artemis Vravronia. dedicated to Saint George. Hymettos, at an altitude of 540 link Athens to Ayioi Apostoloi Vravrona was dedicated Unfortunately only the metres, 4 kilometres from (get off at Oropos, at a to Artemis, the goddess sanctuary of the ancient in the Mesogeia area, distance of 3.3 kilometres protector of hunters, animals temple is preserved. it has a total area of 3,800 from the archaeological site), and the safe birth of humans. Archaeologists have not square metres. and Oropos. You can get off Enraged by the murder of two determined the shape of the Vravrona is the bus at the Markopoulo small female bears, Artemis original temple. Walk over a Getting there. cemetery, at a distance of 3 caused an epidemic in Athens. bridge, built in the classical located 38 kilometres from kilometres from the location. She requested that an oracle period, which leads, to the Athens. If you have a car, You will find the terminus of tell the Athenians that all girls temple, and visit the partially take Mesogeion Avenue, and the buses at Mavromataion aged 5 to 10 living in Attica renovated colonnade. following the suburb of Ayia Str in Athens (Aigyptou were obliged to worship her. Paraskevi, take a turn right on the road to Markopoulo-Porto Square) tel 210 82 30 179. The Athenians obeyed the The Museum. command of the goddess Rafti. A bus line links the area and brought their little girls to Small and interesting, the to Athens. It departs every museum houses in five rooms hour from Mavromataion Str DAY TRIPS IN ATTICA DAY 11 VRAVRONA the temple, where they spent their childhood years serving exhibits from the Vravrona (Pedio tou Areos – tel. 210 Vravrona, with an interesting her and participating in the area and , Perati 82 30 179). archaeological site, is well festivals organised there. The and other areas of Attica. worth a visit. On your way girls who went to the temple, These exhibits cover the to Vravrona, you will travel were called arktoi (bears). period from the Bronze Age 12 NORTHWEST ATTICA through one of the most The festivals in honour of the until the Roman times. The beautiful areas of Attica, with goddess were called Vravronia. most important finds are the Resort area where many green fields, vineyards, olive Musical performances, athletic sculptures from the sanctuary Athenians have summer trees, gentle mountainsides, competitions and poetry of Artemis. houses. It is an area of natural and the coast of the blue readings were held, among beauty with large stretches Euboean Gulf. In summer, if other things, at the festivals. 11.1 Paiania Cave of pinewoods and interesting you don’t like the heat, you (Koutouki). mountains (Kitheronas, can take a dip in the sea. Be THE SIGHTS: , , ) sure to follow the signposts With a large variety of rocks which are popular for hiking leading to Markopoulo and Archaeological site. and the multiformity of the and mountain activities. With , then take a turn You will notice the co- stalactites and stalagmites, numerous beautiful beaches left at the sign for Vravrona. existence of the ruins of Koutouki Cave ranks among (see page 121), traditional 106 107 A few kilometres inland is the the ancient Greek temple the most interesting and rich villages (Alepohori, , archaeological site and the of Artemis and a Christian caves in Greece. Located on Kriekouki or , etc.) and museum on your left. church of the 15th century, the eastern slope of Mount many hotels.

121 122

121. The north side of Gyftokastro (4th c. BC) with seven remaining square towers is the best preserved part of the construction. 122. fortress, part of the walls. THE SIGHTS: see remnants of the cells of 124 a medieval cloister, as well Eleutheres. as a chapel from the same Ancient city of Boeotia, period that is still open to conquered by the Athenians whorshippers. during the 6th century B.C. The archaeological site (near Getting there. If you travel the village Vilia) includes by car, take the Athens-Corinth foundations of a 4th century National Road and after B.C. temple, ruins of residences Eleusina get off and follow dating from the Archaic Period the road to Mandra (approx. until the early Christian years distances from Athens: Vilia 54 and foundations of two early km, Alepohori 60 km, Erythres Christian Basilicas. Situated 61 km). You can also use the on a rocky hill the fortress intercity bus service. Long

DAY TRIPS IN ATTICA DAY Gyftokastro (wall perimeter distances buses to Erythres, 860 m.), dominates the area. Porto Yermenó and Megara This fortress was integrated leave from Thission metro in the defense mechanism of station (tel. 210 32.44.448). Attica by the Athenians during the 4th century B.C. THE SARONIC GULF Aegosthenes Fortress. ISLANDS Located near Porto Yermenó, Boats, ferries and flying it dates from the 4th – 3rd dolphins depart daily from the century B.C. and is considered port of Piraeus (Gate E8) for the the best-preserved ancient splendid islands of the Saronic castle. Close to the fortress (Saronikos) Gulf, Salamina, are the foundations of a , Angistri, , five-aisled basilica (5th cent.) and . Moreover, tourist with a mosaic floor, while on offices organise daily cruises to the castle’s acropolis one can the islands. 108 109

123 SHOPPING IN ATHENS

You will be surprised at the The Museum houses more bargains you will find in Athens. than 3,000 designs of Golden and silver jewellery are jewels. Some 45 collections popular, given the international representing the history of renown of Greek designers. A Greek jewellery inspired by the multitude of jewellers shops art and architecture of eleven most of them located in the civilisations, nature, technology Syntagma Square and Kolonaki and biology. areas, have a wide selection You may be interested in of reproductions of ancient the famous furs of , Greek jewels and traditional the product of a craft that was 123. Poros, and modern designs. Most of perfected over the centuries. In one of the them are hand made by local the Syntagma Square area is a most beautiful craftsmen. Moreover, at a multitude of fur shops offering islands of the multitude of Greek shops you a wide range of coats, jackets Saronic Gulf. can find silver and turquoise and fur hats, with classic and 124. At filigrans, most of them made in modern designs. Kolonaki you the city of , in , You may also find bargain will find some with attractive traditional souvenirs, hand made goods of the best- motifs. and bronze vases. Athens has known fashion Worth a visit is the Ilias been famous for its copper brands. Lalaounis Jewellery Museum. utensils, clay items and pottery 125 FUN-TIME FOR KIDS While you stay in the Greek Enjoy a bicycle ride through capital, there are lots of things a large part of the city’s you can do to relax and have historic centre, along the fun with your kids. “Grand Promenade” (see In Plaka you can visit the page 6) following the 3 km Hellenic Children’s Museum pedestrianised route which and the Museum of Greek starts from Olympieio and Children’s Art (see page 29) ends in Gazi, via Dionysiou two amazing places created for Areopagitou, Apostolou Pavlou children. and Ermou Streets. If you need some relaxing, Watch a show of the traditional you can tour or even take a shadow puppet theatre indoors short rest in parks and green or in the open air.

SHOPPING IN ATHENS areas downtown: the National Garden (see page 48), Pedion Visit the Hellenic Cosmos tou Areos (see page 64) Cultural Centre (see page Thissio park (see page 43), 86) where special cultural Eleftherias park (see page 70), courses for children take the park surrounded by the place involving the use of new Ancient Agora (see page 14) technologies; the Planetarium and the Rock of Areios Pagos of the Eugenides Foundation (see page 13). You can also (see page 86) currently one since the Archaic Age. The goods and shoes made by take a walk on the following of the best in the world; the ideal place to find unique Greek designers. You will find hills: Lycabettus (see page Goulandris Natural History 52), Filopappou (see page 13), items of Greek ceramic art these items at Ermou Str and Museum as well as Gaia and earthenware is the suburb Kolonaki Square. Nymfon (see page 43), Strefi (see page 54) and Ardittou. Centre (see page 87); and the of Maroussi, where most You will also find a large Archelon Sea Turtle Protection In various downtown rd designers and ceramicists variety of antiques in shops Society (3 Marina, Glyfada, have shops offering hand spots there are well-tended www.archelon.gr) where you in Kolonaki, Syntagma and playgrounds: in Dexameni made pieces. Monastiraki, such as furniture, can get information on the life 110 square (Kolonaki, see page 45), 111 You may also find quality hand painted wooden trunks, in Zappeio garden (see page and protection of this species. wool and cotton sweaters with attractive miniatures, and 49) in Neapoli (see page 53), in You can also enjoy yourselves unique designs and leather small decorative items. Thissio (see page 43) etc. playing with your kids in

125. In Adrianou 126 127 128 Street (Plaka), you will find shops selling traditional products, souvenirs, Greek folk art and handicrafts, etc. 126. is a very busy street most of the year. It is the location of a multitude of well- known shops. 127. & 128. Choose among the wide range of activities on offer in Athens and have a great time with your kids. Allou Fun Park (www.allou. page 88) includes Tatoi, at gr) - the biggest fun park a 15 km distance NW of in Rentis, Athens, (at a 7 Athens, where the lush green NIGHT LIFE km distance from the city estates and the old summer centre) and in Adventure palace of the former Greek Athens never sleeps. Some can start your evening out at Park, a recreation area in the royal family are, covering an people say that Athens is one of the select restaurants area of 42,000,000 m2; Mt woods (38 km N of more vibrant at night. Ancient or one of the distinctive (see page 90); and Athens, www.adventure-park. Penteli Mt and modern Athens offers Hymettos (see page 90). Greek tavernas located in gr) where activities related more opportunity for nightlife every neighbourhood of to nature get organised. If, however, you prefer than any other city. You have the city. The atmosphere in Another option is to visit the swimming in the sea, you a lot of options: ancient Greek restaurants is relaxed Antonis Tritsis Environmental should know that in Attica Greek drama in a theatre and friendly and the food is Awareness Park (Ilion, 8-10 there are many beaches, dated to the period the play excellent. You may go to a km northwest of the city some of them with a variety was written, world famous taverna with live greek music, centre – www.parkotritsi.gr). It of facilities and services on FUN-TIME FOR KIDS FOR FUN-TIME orchestras playing music is a 1,200,000 m2 area with offer (including marine sports or one of hundreds of popular ranging from Beethoven bars, clubs, and night spots artificial ponds and streams facilities), starting from the and jazz in one of the most south suburbs of Athens (see where the orchestra plays and abundant flora and fauna. modern concert halls of page 73) and stretching their all types of music. You can You can stroll around, go Europe, unique musical stages horseback or bicycle riding, winding paths all the way to find bars in all central areas, Cape Sounio (see page 97), and clubs offering variety and and all the suburbs, (among visit the playgrounds, see a creativity. place where rare reptiles are or lying along the east and others, Kifisia, Faliro, Glyfada, shown, visit the marketplace west shorelines (for detailed The capital of Athens offers Vouliagmeni, Voula, Varkiza). where organic and traditional information on Attica’s nightlife fans special nights products are sold, coffee beaches see page 121). The out. Whatever you choose It is said that a night out shops etc. Other options beaches closest to the city to do, you will discover that at a place with live bouzouki centre are reachable within include the Diomedes Botanic Athens nightlife offers variety music is an unforgettable 20 – 45 min, by bus, tram (up Garden (see page 93) and the and unique choice, making it experience. Make a point of to Voula), or taxi. The ones Attica Zoological Park (see possible to enjoy throughout going out to bouzoukia while located further away (at a the night. The only problem you’re here, you’ll listen to page 102) one of the biggest distance up to 90 min.) can is that the following day you popular Greek music, sing, zoos in the Balkans. be reached by long-distance have to see the sights… You dance and have a great time. Go hiking, pic-nicking or bus, suburban railway or by 112 113 bike riding on the beautiful car (for transportation and mountainous areas around transport vehicles see page 130. & 131. Have fun – the Greek way – in the traditional Athens: Mt Parnitha (see 122). tavernas downtown and in the suburbs.

129 130 131

129. A host of lovely beaches stretch along the Attican coast, within easy access from the city centre. GREEK CUISINE AND WINE onions, parsley, and garlic, The Greek word , not to mention fresh Greek recalling the ancient origins GREEK CUISINE AND WINE fruit, such as, among others, of Greece, translated word for grapes, apricots, peaches, word means “drinking with Greek cuisine has a unique flavour. During your stay in Greece cherries, melons, and water- company.” The atmosphere you will be pleasantly surprised by culinary specialities. “Mousaka,” melons. The aromatic herbs, in typical Greek restaurants “souvlaki,” “Greek salad,” is all most people know of Greek cuisine. which most Greeks pick in and tavernas is casual, relaxed However, you will discover that Greek cuisine comprises of a large the mountains or the country, and informal. Food is prepared have a unique flavour, aroma according to fundamental variety of dishes fully meeting the culinary appetites of meat-eaters and therapeutic qualities. and vegetarians. rules. Good amateur cooks You will be delighted by the enjoy great respect in their This is not surprising considering that Greece is the country intoxicating aroma of oregano, social circle, while a good where originated and the homeland of the Epikureian thyme, mint, and rosemary, in housewife in Greece means a large variety of dishes. Don’t philosophers. Archestratos wrote the first cookbooks in history in a good cook. A good cook forget to try Greek cheeses, sometimes dedicates days to 330 BC reminding readers that cuisine is a mark of civilisation. in particular, feta. Meat has Greece has a gastronomic tradition of 4,000 years. However, unique flavour because sheep the preparation of a meal for like most national cuisines, Greek cuisine was influenced by and goats graze on open his friends. neighbouring countries, from the East and the West. fields, and grazing meadows are verdant. Mediterranean The general atmosphere. seafood tastes much better Try a glass of ouzo or wine and spices, the famous Greek TRADITIONAL GREEK than ocean seafood. The with fried octopus or any CUISINE olive oil and simplicity. Greek Aegean Sea and Ionian Sea, olive oil deserves a special other Greek dish, sitting in Greek cuisine is unique are clean seas, abundant the shade of a tree in a small because it combines the mention. It accompanies nearly in fish. Fresh fish fried on all Greek dishes. It is usually taverna by the seafront, on an following features: unique charcoal is a speciality. used in large measures. Greece Aegean island. Try to repeat ingredients, Greek dietary the experience in your home has high quality, healthy olive The Greek attitude. habits, the custom of making oil. The artificial cultivation of country, preparing the same a meal a social event, and vegetables is not widespread Greeks religiously preserved dish, and helping yourself to the pleasant atmosphere of in Greece because of the the custom of gathering the same drink. You may try Greece. mildness of the climate. Most around the table to enjoy a it anywhere, but you will soon vegetables are cultivated in a meal or various appetisers, realise that the flavour is not The basic ingredients. (mezedes), with ouzo. Having the same. Don’t try again. Your 114 natural way, preserving their 115 Greek cuisine has four secrets. aroma and taste. You will be a meal with friends at home palate has not changed, nor Good fresh ingredients, the delighted by the taste of Greek or at a restaurant or taverna is is there something lacking in proper use of aromatic herbs tomatoes, cabbage, carrots, a deeply rooted social habit. your cooking skills. The Greek

132 133 134

132. The enjoyment of a good meal with friends is a distinctive Greek custom. 133. Choriatiki, a traditional Greek salad. 134. Masticha sweet is also known as ypovrychio [submarine] as it is served inside a glass of water. GREEK CUISINE AND WINE food-relishing experience, in Greek wines are classified 136 particular the combination in the following four of the food and the place categories: where it is served, are unique, 1) Controlled Appellation and cannot be exported of Origin. or imitated. It is simply something you can find, taste 2) Superior Quality and enjoy only in Greece. Appellation of Origin 3) Local wine. GREEK WINE 4) Table wine. of Kantza. In the Peloponnese of grapes cultivated are: Greece, the country of are the appellations of Savvatiano, Athiri, Bilana, white Controlled appellation Dionysos, the god of wine, , , and , Roditis, Asyrtiko, of origin is the home of the first Vins Nemea. In the Robola, Alexadreias Moschato, de Qualite Produit Listed in the category are is the appellations Rombola Amvourgou Moschato, Fileri, (VQPRD) wines in history. only sweet wines, such as the Cephalinias. In the islands of Malagouzia (Greek white The wines in question were Mavrodaphne of Cephalonia , Limnos, , and wines), Mandilaria, from the islands of Hios and and Patra, the Moschato of Santorini are the appellations (Greek red wines), Chardonnay, , famous in antiquity. Patras, Limnos, Cephalonia (Paros, Limnos, Rhodes and Sauvignon blanc, Ugni blanc,

GREEK CUISINE AND WINE For a variety of historical and Rodos, and the Sweet Santorini). In Crete are the Semillon (Foreign white and social reasons, and due wine of . appellations of origin, Arkanes, wines) and Merlot, Cabernet Peza, Siteia and Daphnes. Sauvignon, Carignan, Syrah, to natural disasters, the art Listed in the category of Tempranillo (foreign red wines). of wine-making declined superior quality appellation from the mid-19th century Also the area of Eastern Attica of origin are some of the Finally the last two categories, (Mesogeia) is well known to the early 1960s. Then the best wines of Greece. Some i.e. the local and table wines, traditional customs of wine- for its Retsina, a popular 20 locations have been offer wine lovers pleasant, wine which accompanies making revived. Today you can designated appellation of exhilarating flavours. find a multitude of excellent superbly the dishes of the origin. In Northern Greece Mediterranean cuisine. Greek wines from every region are the appellations , of the country. When you , Goumenisa and The Vineyard of Attica. For more information please taste Greek wine, bear in Naousa. In Halkidiki is the Attica is a traditional contact the Assosiation mind that it is the produce of appellation Playies Melitona. In of Attica’s vineyard wine 116 high quality wine producing 117 excellent harvest, made from are the appellations region. The total area of producers. varieties of grape unknown to Agialos and Rapsani. In the Attica’s vineyards is 16,346 Tel.: 210 60.38.019 Western lovers of wine. Athens area is the appellation acres. The different varieties website: www.enoaa.gr

135. 135 137 138 Tomatoes and peppers stuffed with rice, minced meat or vegetables; this is one of the most popular Greek dishes. 136. Seafood delicacies are an integral part of the Greek gastronomy. 137. & 138. Attica is a traditional high quality wine producing region. 119

INFORMATION

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800 11 82 000; 136.

210 52. 49. 359 tel.: tel.: olice Headquarters: raffic Police: raffic from 07:30 – 14:00; from raffic Police: raffic tel.: from 09:00 – 13:30. from THE POST OFFICE THE 800 11 83 000 (toll fr 210.60.73.000 (only fr 1033, 210 64 76 000, 100, 112 210 52 84 000. 210 41.74.471. 210 41.39.263-4. 210 32 16 024, 210 32. 47. 690. 210 32 18 143. mobile phones) 109, 210 64.76.215, 210 64.47.534 210 33 19 501, 210 32 26 253.

EMERGENCY NUMBERS: Emergency number: Drugs Squad: Piraeus P Piraeus T Str, Polytechneiou 37, Iroon Opening hours on weekdays 07:30 – 20:00; from 07:30 – 14:00. from Saturdays Square: 60, Mitropoleos from Opening hours weekdays 07:30 – 20:00. - Sundays. Closed on Saturdays Office (EL.TA): Hellenic Post information Parcels:

Athens T www.elta.gr. website: Domestic-International Telegrams: Post Office Phone Service Post (“Door to Door”): tel.: POLICE Headquarters of General Police Attica: 173, Alexandras Avenue, tel.: tel.: tel.: tel.: tel.: tel.: The signposts outside post post outside The signposts yellow are blue and offices and the post office coloured post Athens yellow. boxes are from Monday are open offices to 14:00. 07:30 from to Friday below post offices listed Three hours. longer opening have Sq.: Syntagma Str, 2, Mitropoleos tel.: 07:30–20:00; from Open weekdays Saturdays Sundays Sq.): 100, Aiolou Str (near Omonia tel.: tel.:

220V (50Hz) INTERNET ACRONYMS ELECTRIC CURRENT 210 36. 82. 048, 210 36 82 474,

EMBASSIES–CONSULATES alternating current. alternating In many parts of central Athens Kotzia square,(Syntagma square, is free of Thissio etc.) there the area available connection internet wireless You will come across a multitude a will come across You during abbreviations of Greek visit in Athens. your Tourism National Greek EOT: Organisation. Automobile and Touring ELPA: Club of Greece. Office. Hellenic Post ELTA: domestic buses. KTEL: Inter-urban OASA: Athens Urban Transport Organisation. OSE: Hellenic Railways Organisation. current electric The standard is in Greece email: [email protected], OTE: Hellenic Telecommunications Organisation. Organised by a by Organised Feast: Wine of municipalities. multitude Week: Nautical in Faliro. Celebrated 50 days Celebrated : after Easter. regarding information For Embassies and Consulates, National at the Greek enquire Organisation or: Tourism Affairs: Foreign The Ministry of fax: Public Information Center 3, Public Information floor), Akadimias Str (ground tel.: www.mfa.gr, www.mfa.gr, website: opening hours 8:00-18:00. www.athenswifi.gr), www.athenswifi.gr), (information: areas as in other public as well etc.). Also (museums, libraries in most neighbourhoods and other and outskirts, in Peiraias parts of Attica operate a lot of cafés. internet

HOLIDAYS: WHEN TO VISIT TO WHEN OTHER TRADITIONAL NATIONAL HOLIDAYS NATIONAL Carnival festivities of festivities Carnival Carnival: on duration, ending 3 weeks In Athens the Monday. Shrove held are festivities main Carnival in Plaka. New Year’s Day: 1 January. New Year’s Epiphany: 6 January. in Consecration of the waters is The Cross the Piraeus area. men cast in the sea and young it. in to retrieve dive Monday: 41 days before Shrove commencement The Easter. Shrove of Lenten fasting. On fly kites, fast, Monday Greeks and celebrate the Shrove Athenians gather Monday feast. Hill and mainly at Philopappou other high grounds. Independence Day and the Annunciation: Parade. Military 25 March. to Easter Easter: Good Friday in On Good Friday Monday. Epitaphios is the afternoon in decorated with flowers of the procession The churches. people Epitaphios is joined by holding candles and singing of every psalms on the streets in the country. and village town Celebrated with Resurrection: at midnight, and flares fireworks of Easter. on the eve to Easter Day: According Greeks custom, on Easter Day, on the spit. eat lamb roasted include music The festivities and dancing. shows Flower May Day: 1 May. take place in Athens. of the Virgin: The Dormition On 15 August. 28 October: National holiday. Military parade. 25-26 December. Christmas: Visit Athens any time of the year. year. Athens any time of the Visit high season is from info, your For peaking in August. to October, April C Ο 24.2 19.5 15.4 12 10.6 12.3 15.9 20.7 25.2 28 27.8 10.3

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ch il vember vember ebruary December June July August September October No January F Mar Apr May Month GENERAL INFORMATION GENERAL

is located in south- is located in Greece It has a population Europe. eastern The countryof 10,815 ,000. Parliamentary is a Presidential, joined the having Democracy, Union in 1981. European Athens is located in the Attica within the Attica basin, district, Mount by which is encompassed Mount Aegaleo, Mount Parnitha, and Mount Hymettos. Penteli the Athens, the suburbs and of Piraeus town neighbouring constitute an urban entity urban complex of the (greater of capital) with a population about 4 million residents. : The national currency Currency since January 1, 2001, of Greece can exchange You is the euro. at private at the airport, currency exchanges, and banks. currency Dialling code: The international is +30. dialling code of Greece zone: Athens time is seven Time Standard hours ahead of Eastern hours ahead of two Time, and one Time, Mean Greenwich hour ahead of Central European Time. Climate: Athens has a mild than climate, with sunshine more The average260 days a year. is: monthly temperature INFORMATION 118 120

INFORMATION www.visitgreece.gr or visittheweb page: the Organisation’s centraloffice Organisation Offices enquire at For Greek National Tourism Organisation OfficesAbroad: Gr fax: tel.: email: 18-20, DionyssiouAreopagitou St., Athens information centre: website www.visitgreece.gr. tel.: 7, Tsoha Str, 115 21Athens, Central Office: ORGANISATION (E.O.T.) GREEK NATIONAL TOURISM AIDS tel.: tel.: tel.: tel.: tel.: tel.: tel.: tel.: tel.: Poison Information centre: tel.: National Blooddonationcentr SOS Doctors: Medical emergencyhelpline: and English: Medical information inGreek phar Emergency hospitals, Emergency Number: HEAL E.L.P E.L.P Airport police: F tel.: emergency helpline: Social andPsychological tel.:

irefighters: tel.:199.

eek NationalTourism TOURIST INFORMATION

210 3310640. 210 3310347 210 3310716, 210 3310392, 210 8707088,1572, 210 8707000, 210 7793777-8. 24.10.000 210 1016. 210 7460000 210 8983146. 14944 (inGr 166. 10400. 210 6068800. 210 3536899. 197 (24-hservice). (Mon –F 210 7222 macies, doctors: help line: .A.: RoadAssistance: .A.: 395,MesogeionAvenue, TH CARE [email protected],

ri 09:00-21:00)

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City ofAthens(inf Piraeus T tel.: tel.: Akti Xaveriou, tel.: 43-45, Veikou Str–Koukaki, Athens Tourist Police Station: any locationinthecountry. dial 1571anytimeandday, at shoulder. For tourist information insignia “Tourist Police” onthe languages. Officers wearthe Tourist Police speakforeign tourists andtourist businesses. settle minordisputesbetween Tourist Police are authorised to and assistancetotourists. The women, providing information specially trainedmenand Police (EL.AS),mannedby A departmentoftheGreek TOURIST POLICE 75, Damareos Str, Organisation: The Greek Youth Hostel website: www.greececamping.org email: [email protected], fax: tel.: 9 Mauromihali Str10673Athens; Campsite Owners: The HellenicUnionof website: www.pox.gr. email: [email protected]; fax: tel.: 24, StadiouStr, 10564 Athens, (H.H.F.): The HellenicHotelFederation website: www.grhotels.gr email: [email protected], tel.: 24, StadiouStr, 10564 Athens, The HotelChamberofGreece: modern facilities. recently andhave highquality, renovated andmodernised Most ofthelodgingshave been capacity ofabout63.000beds. of allcategories, withatotal are more than700lodgings suburbs, Piraeus,andAttica), Athens area (includingthe In Athensandthegreater



210 4290664-5. 30-32. 210 9200724-26-27-29- 1595. 1 216.99.00, 213 210 3621918, 210 3621560; 210 3230636; 210 3312535-6; 213 216.99.25;

ourist Police Station: HOTELS

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Agents Association: The HellenicTourist andTravel Organisation or: the Greek NationalTourism Northern Greece) contact Mycenae, Epidavros, , of Greece (amongothers,, the Saronic Gulf, andotherareas the Atticaarea, theislandsof For organisedtoursofAthens, ORGANISED TOURS-EXCURSIONS email: [email protected] tel.: the city’ssouthsuburbs, along capital washedby the sea.In Athens istheonly European 11, IosifRogonStr, 11742Athens; website: www.hpyoa.gr fax: 21042.80.465, tel.: 185 36,Piraeus; Ktirio DioikisisMarina Zeas, Craft Owners: Hellenic AssociationofLeisure website: www.hyba.gr email: [email protected], fax: tel.: Piraeus; Office A1inZeaMarina, 18536, Consultants Association: Hellenic Yacht Brokers and following organisations: For yacht rentals contactthe YACHT BROKERS website: www.steea.gr email: [email protected], fax: tel.: 145.64 Athens, 31, Viltanioti, Str. KatoKifissia, Association: Hellenic CarRental regarding carrentals contact: Syngrou Avenue. For information most ofthemlocatedat reliable carrental companies, In theAthensarea are many CAR RENTAL website: www.hatta.gr. email: [email protected]; fax: tel.: TOURIST ORGANISATIONS

210 75.10.616, 210 7519530, 210 45.99.563, 210 210 26335 210 4533134; 210 62.64.289 210 62.64.281 210 9233307; 210 9223522; BEACHES

Sesi). – Karavi,Dikastika,Ramnountas, Neas Makris); Marathon(Schinias Makri (Zoumberi, Mati,Paralia Beach, KokkinoLimanaki);Nea Artemidos Beach);Rafina(Marikes Artemis (Hamolia,Ayiou Nikolaou Marina, Erotospilia), Vravrona- Thalassa), Porto Rafti(Avlaki-Ayia Attica: Kerateasbeach(Kakia Coast), Patroclos Island.East Poseidon, Sounio-Poseidonia (KAPE, Legraina,Temple of – EdenandThymari; Sounio Deftero Limanaki;Anavyssos (Paleo Faliro), Vouliagmeni – South Attica:BatisandEdem OTHER BEACHES Kosma Beach,. Beach A’, Varkiza Beach,Ayiou Vouliagmenis Beach,Voula Vouliagmenis Lake,Attica Asteras Vouliagmenis Beach, Lagonissi, Asteria Seaside, (with entryticket):GrandBeach ORGANISED BEACHES website: www.blueflag.org For theprogramme visitthe of thecoastalenvironment. and security andtheprotection and beaches,goodorganisation criteria regarding cleanwaters and marines meetingstrict granted every year tobeaches awarded “BlueFlags ofEurope,” Attica beacheshave been waters andeasyaccess.Several variety ofservices,withclean beaches someofwhichoffer a of Attica,there are dozensof to Vouliagmeni), andotherareas the Saronic Gulf(from P. Faliro , Strava,Schinos. Yermeno, Psatha, Alepochori, Chalkoutsiou. Oropos -NeaPalatia, Pigadakia (Ayioi Apostoloi), Paralia Kalamou, website: www.flisvosmarina.com fax: tel: Floisvos marina: website: www.alimosmarina.gr fax: tel.: Alimos marina: 3,000 boats. with atotaldockingcapacity In Atticathere are 6marinas,

210 98.71.060, 210 98.53.151 210 98.80.000, 210 210 9871000-2, Oropos North Attica:Oropos MARINAS :Porto

INFORMATION 121 122

INFORMATION 4 tel.: www.tourism-development.gr. website: email: [email protected]; fax: tel.: 7, Voulis Str, 10562Athens; a betterservice, certain lines the suburbs.Inorder toprovide areas ofAthens,Piraeus and itineraries cover theentire Urban busandtrolleybus TROLLEYBUS LINES URBAN BUSAND 60 timesitsprice. for not showing avalidticketis towards anydirection. Thefine of trips, usinganyserviceand min. for anindefinitenumber boarding anditisvalidfor 90 be validatedduring thefirst the stations.Theticketmust specially designatedspotsin card whichyou canbuyfrom carry avalidticketorboarding run untilmidnight.You must and trams)startat5a.m. trolleybuses, themetro system Public transportservice(buses, Public Properties CompanyS.A.: National Tourism Organisationor marinas contacttheGreek For furtherinformation regarding website: www.olympicmarine.gr . fax: fax: tel.: tel.: Lavrion Olympicmarina: website: www.medmarinas.com tel: Piraeus Zeasmarina: www.vouliagmeni-marina.gr. website: tel: Vouliagmeni marina: website: www.aegean-marinas.eu 2 tel.: tel.: Headquarters: Glyfada marina: 1 fax: tel.: 3 th rd nd st marina: marina: marina: marina:

1 89.41.389 210 210 3339507; 210 33.39.516; 22920 63700, 210 45.59.000, 210 8960012-4, 210 45.59.031, 210 89.60.415, 210 89.47.920, 210 1 89.47.353 210 210 89.47.284 210 89.12.362, 210 1 89.49.374 210 PUBLIC TRANSPORT

ATHENS INTERNATIONAL Website: www..gr with detailedinformation. stations you willfindtimetables with intermediate stops.Atthe west ofAthens,inPeloponnese), and thecityofKiato(105km “Eleftherios Venizelos” Airport It connectsAthensto SUBURBAN RAILWAY to takeatrip inthevicinity. (near theAcropolis) ifyou wish in DionyssiouAreopagitou street horse-driven carriages stationed Ride oneofthetraditional most partsofthehistoric centre. tourist trainswhichmakerunsto and Plakathere are wheel-driven the citycentre. From Syntagma tour around thebiggestpartof major sightsinAthensandgeta aboard whichyou canseethe tourist busesinSyntagmaarea, You willfinddouble-decker DOWNTOWN TOURING Website: run every 40min. from midnightuntil5a.m.lines on a24-hourbasis,however and Saturdays theserviceruns harbour ofPiraeus.OnFridays all thewaytocentre andthe being plannedinorder toextend meanwhile, itsexpansionis of Peace andFriendship), Voula andNewFaliro -Stadium southern outskirts(towards (Syndagma square) tothecity’s It connectsthecentre ofAthens website: www.ametro.gr. night theservicerunsuntil2a.m., On Friday andSaturday trains. lines androutes ofthemetro you canfindatablewithallthe under construction.Atevery stop systems inEurope withnewlines sumptuous, cleanestsubway of thebestandonemost The Greek capitalcanboastone website: www.oasa.gr]. – lines call185(inGreek) information onbusandtrolleybus Basin run24hoursaday[for crossing busyspotsintheAttica tel.: Spata 19019,Greece; AIRPORT “Eleftherios Venizelos”

210 3530000; www.tramsa.gr

tel.: Information -reservations Olympic Air: and X97(toDafnimetro station). (to metro stationEthnikiAmyna) the inter-city busterminal), X94 Piraeus), X92(toKifissia),X93 (to Syntagma,Athens),X96 complex:numberX95 urban airport tothegreater Athens Moreover, buslineslinkingthe metro linkstheairport toAthens. The SuburbanRailwayandthe information –reservations Aegean Airlines: website: www.olympicair.com website: f 1 website: www.ktel.:org). stations. (Information tel.:14944, country departfrom three bus Attica ortootherpartsofthe Buses for destinationswithin INTERCITY BUSST tel.: Lavr tel.: Rafina HarbourP tel.: Central Pireaus HarbourPolice: tel.: Information onschedules: SEA TRANSPORT w tel.: schedules: domestic andinternational train 1-3, Karolou Str, information on ORGANISATION (O.S.E.) HELLENIC RAILWAYS website: www.aegeanair.com tel.: 2 tel.: Attica distr tel.: tel.: ax: nd st ebsite: www.ose.gr.

Station:100,KifissouStr; Station:260,LiosionStr;



 8018010101; 210 35.50.500, 210 3530001; 22920 25249. 22940 22300. 210 4226000. 14541 (for English) 14944 (f 1110, 21052.97.777; (from cellphonesonly) 210 62.61.000 51 24910. 210 8210872 (Marathon). Porto Rafti,Markopoulo); (Sounio, Oropos, 210 8230179 210 8317153. (fr 801 11.20.000 ion HarbourPolice: om alandlinephone) www.aia.gr. ict KTEL:

or Greek),

olice:

ATIONS:

or Thissiometro stations) tel.: Melathron); 12, Panepistimiou Str(Iliou Museum: The AthensNumismatic (Victoria metro station) tel.: 1, Tositsa Str; The EpigraphicalMuseum: (Thissio metro station) tel.: 148, Ermou Str; The KerameikosMuseum: tel.: Stoa ofAttalus,AncientAgora, Museum: The AthensAncientAgora (Acropolis metro station) www.theacropolismuseum.gr website: tel.: 15 DionyssiouAreopagitou Str, The Acropolis Museum: (Victoria metro station). website: www.namuseum.gr tel.: 144, Patision Str, Museum: The NationalArchaeological site museums, you canalsovisitthe For information regarding includes aselectionofmuseums. archaeological sites.Thelistbelow of importantmuseumsand and environs, are amultitude In Athens,Piraeus,thesuburbs, 4, NeofytouDouka Str, The Museumof Cycladic Art: (Syntagma metro station) website: www.nma.gr complaint, call1019. on customerserviceorfilea taximeter. To getinformation charges notrecorded by the recording thefare andsurplus supplied withavalidprice list, 24:00 –05:00tariff 2. Taxis are hours tariff 1isusedandfrom every fare. From 05:00–24:00 obliged tosetthecounterat recording charges.Drivers are All taxishave ataxicounter, TAXI

http://odysseus.culture.gr 1 90.00.901, 210 210 3612540, 210 3643774; 210 8217637 210 3463552 210 3210185, 210 8217724, 210 8217717,

MUSEUMS

(Monastiraki (Monastiraki

INFORMATION 123 124

INFORMATION 22, A - TheMuseumofIslamicArt: tel.: from KatehakiAve., Parko Stratou, Goudi,entrance Greece: National Glyptothequeof (Evangelismos metro station) website: www.nationalgallery.gr, tel.: 50, Vas. KonstantinouAvenue; Alexandros Soutzos: The NationalGallery-Museum (Panepistimio metro station) www.athenscitymuseum.gr, tel.: (Klafthmonos Square); 5-7, Paparrigopoulou Str Eftaxia Foundation): of Athens(Vourou - The MuseumoftheCity (Evangelismos metro station) tel.: 2, Rizari Str; The War Museum: (Evangelismos metro station) www.byzantinemuseum.gr website: tel.: 22, Vas. Sofias Avenue; Museum: The ByzantineandChristian tel.: Dipylou Str. (Kerameikos), tel.: 138, Pireaus Str. (Gazi), - Pireos Street building: website: www.benaki.gr tel.: 1, Koumbari Str&Vas. Sofias Av.; (central building): The BenakiMuseum (Syntagma metro station) website: www.nhmuseum.gr tel.: 13, StadiouStr; website: tel.: 34-36 Str. –Votanikos, Cultural Multicentre Athinais, Museum ofDiachronic Art: (Evangelismos metro station) website: www.cycladic.gr tel.: website: www.athinais.com.gr. The NationalHistorical Museum:

210 3453111 210 3671000; 210 3237617, (Katehaki metro station). 77.09.855 210 210 7235857 32.31.397, 210 210 7252974-6 210 7232178, 210 7211027; 32.51.311-14 210 210 7226321-3; 1 34.80.000, 210 yion Assomaton&12,

The F 1-3, DiogenousStr Instruments Museum: The Greek Folk Musical tel.: – Buildingat22,Panos St.: website: www.melt.gr tel.: 17, KythathinaeonStr, Plaka; The Greek Folk ArtMuseum: www.frissirasmuseum.com. website: tel.: 3, MonisAsteriou Str, Plaka; tel.: (Metaxourgeio), Leonidou andMyllerou Str, The AthensMunicipalGallery: (Evangelismos metro station) website: www.emst.gr, tel.: Rigillis St., 17 -19Vas. GeorgiouII& Contemporary Art: The NationalMuseumof tel.: 50, AkadimiasStr; The Theatr tel.: 12, The KanellopoulosMuseum: tel.: 5, TholouStr, Plaka; University ofAthens: The Historical Museumofthe www.childrensartmuseum.gr website: fax: tel: Voulis Str.); Plaka, 9, Kodrou Str(extensionof Museum ofGreek Children’s Art: website: www.hcm.gr. tel.: 14, KythatinaeonStr; Museum: The HellenicChildren’s (Monastiraki metro station). website: www.melt.gr tel.: Tzistarakis Mosque,Monastiraki; Collection: The Kyriazopoulou Ceramics www.instruments-museum.gr w tel.:

ebsite:

Theorias Str & Panos Str, Plaka;

210 3213018, 210 3229031; 210 3234678; 210 3231841. 210 9242111-3, 1 32.14.972 210 210 33.13.734, 210 210 3629430, 210 3212313. 210 3240861. 210 33.12.750, 210 33.12.621, 210 3312995-6; 210 3242006, 210 3254119-129, 210 3250198, rissiras Museum:

ical Museum:

, Plaka;

tel.: (entrance from Pendelis Str), 387 Syngrou Avenue, Paleo Faliro Foundation: Planetarium, Eugenides website: www.hellenic-cosmos.gr www.fhw.gr tel.: 18, Poulopoulou St,Thiseio; World: The Foundation oftheHellenic website: www.jewishmuseum.gr tel.: 29, NikisStr; The JewishMuseumofGreece: (Kerameikos metro station) www.technopolis-athens.com website: tel.: 100, Pireos Str, Gazi; Museum): Park andTheMaria Callas (Gazi Industrial Archaeological City ofAthensTechnopolis (Akropolis metro station) www.lalaounis-jewelrymuseum.gr website: tel.: 12, Kalisperi Str, Acropolis, Museum: The IliasLalaounisJewellery (Thissio metro station) website: www.potterymuseum.gr tel.: 4-5, MelidoniStr, Kerameikos, Centre: The Newer CeramicsResearch (Megar tel.: 10, EvzononStr, The Eleftherias Park ArtsCentre: (Megaro Moussikismetro station) tel.: Eleftherias Park, Museum: The Eleftherios Venizelos (Panepistimio metro station) tel.: 254 Pireos St.-, Athens; – Hellenic Cosmos Cultural Centre: Museum: The Goulandris Natural History tel.: 21080.85.560 Str. –Kifissia, 30, GeorgantaStr. &Kassaveti of Kifisia: The Archaeological Collection website: www.eugenfound.edu.gr

1 34.60.981, 210 210 3318491-6, 210 7232603–4, 210 7224238, 210 94.69.642, 94.69.600, 210 212 2540000, 212 2543800, 210 3225582, 210 9221044, o Moussikismetro station)

tel.: 31, Harilaou Trikoupi Str; Museum: tel.: tel.: Akti Themistocleous,Piraeus; Museum: The MarathonArchaeological tel.: 22, Dimarchou MenidiatiStr, Museum: The MegaraAr tel.: of Eleusina(Museum): The Ar tel.: of Sounio: The Archaeological Site tel.: of Kerameikos: The Archaeological Site tel.: The LibraryofHadrian: tel.: of theRomanAgora: The Archaeological site tel.: of theAncientAgora: The Archaeological Site tel.: of Acropolis: The Archaeological Site tel.: Dionyssiou Areopagitou Str. Eumenes etc.)–entranceform (Dionyssos Theatre, TheStoaof Acropolis: north andsouthslopesofthe The Archaeological siteofthe tel.: of Olympieion: The Archaeological Site 29, F Municipal GalleryofPiraeus: The Gr The PiraeusAr tel.: Str, Paiania 19002; 1, Parodos diadohouKonstantinou The Vorre Museum: - GaiaCentre: 100,OthonosStr. website: www.gnhm.gr, tel.: 13, LevidouStr, Kifissia;

26 22426 22960 210 5543470. 210 5546019, 22920 39363. 34.63.552 210 32.49.350 210 210.32.45.220 32.10.185 210 32.10.219 210 32.24.625 210 92.26.330 210 41.01.401 210 210 4516264. 210 4286959, 210 4521592. 210 6644771. 210 6642520; 210 8015870, ilonos St. chaeological site chaeological site eek NauticalMuseum:

chaeological chaeological

chaeological chaeological

INFORMATION 125 126

INFORMATION (Monday toFriday, 09:00 – opening hours:08:30–16:00 tel.: (in thearcade); 39, Panepistimiou Str Central ticketoffice: website: www.greekfestival.gr email: [email protected]; fax: information andreservations: Hadjichristou Str, 11742Athens; Makriyianni Strand23, Hellenic Festival S.A.: other venues ofthecity. at theLycabettus theatre, and holds importantculturalevents theatre. TheFestival insummer modern music,opera,danceand and artistsperform classicaland best Greek andforeign groups major festivals. Someofthe Odeon. ItisoneofEurope’s air RomanHerodes Atticus (June –September)attheopen in 1955,isheldsummer The AthensFestival, established ATHENS FESTIVAL www.culture.gr Omonia Square), orwebsite: others, SyntagmaSquare, on saleatcentralkiosks(among foreign languagenewspapers For culturalevents inAthenssee The Ar tel.: of Ramnous: The Archaeological site Marathonos A The MarathonRunMuseum: tel.: the Tomb ofMarathon: tel.: 114, PlataionStr, Marathon; tel.: Spata 19004, Thesi Yialou, P.O. Box38, Attica ZoologicalPark (Spata): tel.: 2299027020. of Vravrona: The Archaeological site tel.: 2295062144. of Amphiareion: tel.: Martiou St.–Marathonas, website:

210 9282941; 210 9282900; 210 32.72.000; 210 3221459, 22940 63477. 67.617 22940 22940 55462. 22940 55155, 1 66.34.724, 210 CULTURAL EVENTS chaeological site chaeological site www.atticapark.com

ve. and25th

09:00 –14:00&18:0021:00. opening hours: tel.: ticket office: The OdeionofHerodes Atticus 14:30 (Saturdays). Lycabettus theatre ticketoffice: events (www.sgt.gr). visual artexhibitions andliterary music anddance performances, Ave. andstagestoptheatrical, impressive building onSyngrou It ishousedinamodern, THE ONASSISCULTURAL CENTRE information –reservations: 59, AkadimiasStr, 10679 Athens; The OlympiaTheatre: (website: www.nationalopera.gr). (Olympia andAcropol) are heldinitstwo auditoria, performances andmusicconcerts in Greece. Operaandballet The oldestoperatheatre THE NATIONAL OPERAHOUSE Monday –Friday 10:00–16:00. opening hours: (near SyntagmaSquare), 8, Omirou Str. Ticket office in thecitycentre: 20.30 18:00-20:30, Sunday18:00- Saturday 10:00-14:00& Monday- Friday 10:00-20:30, 20:30. Ondaysofperformances 18:00 –20:30;Sunday Saturday 10:00–14:00and Monday –Friday 10:00–16:00; opening hours: Central ticketoffice: website: www.megaron.gr. email: [email protected]; tel.: reservations 115 21Athens;information – Vas. SofiasStr&KokkaliStr, THE A tel.: information –reservations: 106 79Athens; 9-11, IppokratousStr, The Acropol Theatre:

210 32771; 210 7282333; 210 7227209. 210 7227233, fax: 210 3608666; 210 3643700; fax: 210 3643725; 210 3612461; THENS CONCERTHALL 21036.08.268 21036.43.577

website: www.sportsnet.gr. tel.: films have Greek subtitles. films are notdubbed. Foreign beneath astarlitsky. In Greece a garden withtrees andflowers, evenings liketoseeamovie in attractions. Atheniansinsummer rank highamongGreece’s A fax: OPEN AIRCINEMAS website: www.cityofathens.gr fax: 2103614358; events. Information: stages culturalandsporting CULTURAL ORGANISATION tel.: (see page42). DORA STRATOU THEATRE tel.: tel.: 2103611042, (14, Dimokritou Str., in Greece andabroad costumes during performances folk dancegroups wear these Members oftheLyceum’s from every partofthecountry. of genuineGreek dresses exhibits avaluablecollection –Kolonaki, tel21036.29.513) museum (on7Dimokritou Str Greek folk dances.TheLyceum’s music, andstudyperform national dress, record Greek folk different varieties ofGreek customs, research andstudy seeks topreserve Greek folk Lyceum ClubofGreek Women Greek feminist K.Parren, the Founded in1910by thefirst WOMEN. LYCEUM CLUBOFGREEK (Syngrou-Fix metro station). email: [email protected] Administration Office: ticket office:21090.05.800, 11745 Athens, 107-109 Syngrou Ave, Information: The Sports Federations:The Sports 7, Kifissias Avenue, 11523Athens; Undersecretariat for Sports: website: www.lykeionellinidon.gr) www.sportsnet.gr/3/g31.html. THENS MUNICIPALITY

210 6496000; 210 3630706, 210 3621601, 210 3246921. 210 9214650; 210 3244395, 2130 178000, SPORTS

website:

.

www.athensclassicmarathon.gr website: fax: tel.: Smirni, Athens; 137 Syngrou Ave., 17121Nea Amateur AthleticsFederation), Information: SEGAS(Hellenic road races(10kmand5km). power walkingandtwo more (Athens) andalsoincludes to thePanathenaikon Stadium authentic course,from Marathon held every November onthe organized from 1983,isbeing The AthensClassicMarathon, website: www.hoc.gr. fax: Committee (E.O.E.): The HellenicOlympic tel.: 152 33Halandri, Athens; (372, Kifissias Avenue) 52, DimVikela Str www.hnms.gr Service (weather forecast): *Hellenic National Meteorological www.athenspotlighted.gr discount citycard: *Athens Spotlightedfree www.athina984.gr/1044fm International Radio: *Air 104.4FM–Athens Agency: www.amna.gr *Athens &MacedonianNews www.athensconventionbureau.gr * AthensConvention Bureau (ACB): www.astynet.gr. Unification Company(E.A.X.A.): *Athens Archaeological Sites www.culture2000.tee.gr. Athens -Attica: *Modern architecture in http://odysseus.culture.gr historical monuments: archaeological sitesand Sports -Information on *Ministry ofCulture and www.athensattica.gr *Attica Region(tourist portal): www.breathtakingathens.com Municipality ofAthens: *Tourist portalofthe www.cityofathens.gr. *Athens Municipality:

210 9331152; 210 9315886; 210 9331113, 210 6878940; 210 6878888;

WEBSITES

INFORMATION 127 THE MAP OF ATHENS

128 129 KEY TO THE MAP OF ATHENS ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES 27 ELEFTHERIOS VENIZELOS 54 MUSEUM OF THE HISTORY 79 ZAPPEION CONFERENCES & MONUMENTS HISTORY FOUNDATION OF THE GREEK COSTUME & EXHIBITIONS MANSION OF THE LYCEUM CLUB OF 28 ELEFTHERIOS VENIZELOS 1 GREEK WOMEN MUSEUM  ARTISTIC 2 55 ANCIENT AGORA 29 EMOTIONS MUSEUM OF MUSEUM OF MODERN PERFORMANCES – 3 ANDRONICUS KYRRISTUS CHILDHOOD CERAMICS THEATRES CLOCK (TOWER OF THE 30 EPIGRAPHICAL MUSEUM 56 NATIONAL GALLERY WINDS) 80 DORA STRATOU GREEK 31 EXILE MUSEUM 57 NATIONAL HISTORICAL DANCES THEATRE 4 AREIOS PAGOS MUSEUM 32 FRISSIRAS MUSEUM 81 5 THEATRE OF DIONYSOS 58 NATIONAL MUSEUM OF 33 G. GOUNAROPOULOS & SOUTH SLOPE OF THE CONTEMPORARY ART 82 LYCABETTUS THEATRE ACROPOLIS MUSEUM 59 FIX BREWERY BUILDING, 83 “MEGARON” - THE 6 HADRIAN’S ARCH 34 HELLENIC CHILDREN’S ATHENS CONCERT HALL MUSEUM KALLIROIS AND SYNGROU 7 HADRIAN’S LIBRARY 60 84 NATIONAL THEATRE OF 35 HELLENIC MOTOR NUMISMATIC MUSEUM 8 KERAMEIKOS GREECE MUSEUM 61 PAUL & ALEXANDRA 9 85 ODEION OF HERODES LYSIKRATES MONUMENT 36 HERAKLEIDON MUSEUM - KANELLOPOULOS ATTICUS 10 OLYMPIEION ART & MATHEMATICS MUSEUM 86 TECHNOPOLIS - CITY OF 11 PHILOPAPPUS MONUMENT 37 62 POSTAL & PHILATELIC JEWELLERY MUSEUM MUSEUM ATHENS KEY TO THE MAP OF ATHENS KEY TO 12 PLATO’S ACADEMY 38 INDUSTRIAL GAS MUSEUM 63 SPYROS VASSILIOU 87 GREEK FILM ARCHIVE 13 PNYX 39 JEWISH MUSEUM OF MUSEUM 14 ROMAN AGORA GREECE 64 THE ATHENS UNIVERSITY CHURCHES OF VARIOUS 15 PRISONS OF SOCRATES 40 KATINA PAXINOU MUSEUM HISTORY MUSEUM DENOMINATIONS 16 TEMPLE OF HEPHAISTOS 65 41 KERAMEIKOS MUSEUM WAR MUSEUM (THESEION) 88 CHRISTUS KIRCHE 42 MELINA MERCOURI (GERMAN EVANGELICAL) FOUNDATION PUBLIC BUILDINGS – 89 1ST GREEK EVANGELICAL MUSEUMS – GALLERIES 43 MELINA (MERCOURI) SIGHTSEEING – FOUNDATIONS CHURCH 130 CULTURAL CENTER 131 90 ST DENIS-AYIOS 44 MUSEUM OF DIACHRONIC 66 ATHENS ACADEMY 17 ACROPOLIS MUSEUM ART OF “ATHINAIS” DIONYSSIOS (ROMAN 67 CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL) 18 ANCIENT AGORA MUSEUM 45 MUSEUM OF CYCLADIC (STOA OF ATTALUS) ART 68 ILIOU MELATHRON 91 ST GREGORY (ARMENIAN) 19 ATHENS MUNICIPAL ART (SCHLIEMANN MANSION) 92 45a MUSEUM OF CYCLADIC ST PAUL’S ANGLICAN GALLERY ART - STATHATOS MANSION 69 LYCABETTUS (LYCAVITTOS) CHURCH 20 NATIONAL HILL 46 MUSEUM OF FOLK ART & 93 SYNAGOGUE ARCHAEOLOGICAL TRADITION 70 MAXIMOU MANSION MUSEUM 47 MUSEUM OF GREEK 71 NATIONAL GARDEN 21 BYZANTINE CHURCHES B & M THEOCHARAKIS CHILDREN’S ART FOUNDATION FOR THE 72 NATIONAL LIBRARY OF FINE ARTS & MUSIC 48 MUSEUM OF GREEK FOLK GREECE 94 AYIA EKATERINI ART 22 BENAKI MUSEUM 73 NATIONAL OBSERVATORY 95 AYIA TRIADA (RUSSIAN 49 MUSEUM OF GREEK FOLK OF ATHENS ORTHODOX) 23 BENAKI MUSEUM ART (PIREOS STR. BUILDING) 74 PANATHENAIKON 96 AYIOI APOSTOLOI – CONTEMPORARY 50 MUSEUM OF GREEK FOLK (KALLIMARMARO) 97 CULTURAL CENTER ART STADIUM AYIOI ASOMATI 24 51 98 AYIOI THEODOROI BENAKI MUSEUM – NIKOS MUSEUM OF GREEK FOLK 75 PRESIDENTIAL MANSION HADJIKYRIAKOS-GHIKAS ART 99 AYIOS ELEFTHERIOS 76 POLYTECHNIC SCHOOL GALLERY 52 MUSEUM OF GREEK FOLK (TECHNICAL UNIVERSITY) 100 AYIOS IOANNIS 25 BENAKI MUSEUM OF MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS THEOLOGOS ISLAMIC ART 77 MONUMENT OF THE 53 MUSEUM OF THE CITY UNKNOWN SOLDIER 101 KAPNIKAREA 26 BYZANTINE & CHRISTIAN OF ATHENS VOUROS- MUSEUM EUTAXIAS 78 UNIVERSITY 102 METRO•TRAM•SUBURBAN RAILWAY OF ATHENS

132 133 MINISTRY OF TOURISM PUBLICATION: GREEK NATIONAL TOURISM ORGANISATION MARCH 2014, 12th edition

Overall supervision: ANGELA VARELA Director, Directorate of Marketing Research & Advertising Coordinator: ELENI MITRAKI Head, Department of Publications and Audiovisual Media Research - Concept - Texts: YANNIS RANGOS Art Direction: ZOE TZOMENTZIDOU Translation: ALEXI PAPASOTIRIOU, INO BALTA, ATHENA ZAMBAZI, ANGELIKI CHRISTOPOULOU Photographs: Baltatzis F. (134, 136), Delegos V. (54), Kakarouhas H. (22, 24, 42, 44, 45, 47, 49, 50, 60, 63, 67, 73, 88, 97, 98, 99, 112, 113, 114, 115, 116, 118, 124, 125, 130, 131, 132), Kouzouni A. (10), Skoulas Y. (3, 4, 11, 16, 23, 33, 37, 38, 51, 55, 64, 65, 68, 69, 70, 72, 75, 76, 79, 80, 94, 107, 109, 121, 122), Stolis P. (28, 66, 126) Vitsaropoulos G. (90, 91, 92), 134 Archaeological Resources Fund (T.A.P.A.) (87, 135 89, 106, 117), Attiko Metro (93), Shutterstock (1, 2, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 18, 19, 20, 25, 26, 29, 30, 31, 32, 35, 39, 40, 46, 48, 52, 56, 57, 58, 59, 74, 84, 85, 86, 104, 108, 110, 111, 121, 123, 127, 128, 129, 133, 135, 137, 138), GNTO Archive (21, 27, 34, 41, 43, 53, 61, 62, 71, 77, 78, 81, 82, 83, 95, 96, 100, 101, 102, 103, 105, 119). Plans: A’ DEPARTMENT OF PRE-HISTORIC AND CLASSICAL ANTIQUITIES, Y. TRAVLOS, M. KORRES Maps: P. MATSOUKA / ANAVASI EDITIONS Printed by: BIBLIOSYNERGATIKI S.A. Follow Greece Everywhere ISBN: 960 - 534 - 036 - 4 Copyright: GREEK NATIONAL TOURISM ORGANISATION

Info about the artwork presented on the cover. Through children’s eyes and creativity, Greek history, tradition, everyday life and culture is depicted THE PRESENT EDITION IS NOT FOR SALE in the most disarming and eloquent manner. Discover the magic world of children’s art in one of the few such Museums worldwide. GREEK NATIONAL TOURISM ORGANISATION www.visitgreece.gr Museum of Greek Children’s Art (www.childrensartmuseum.gr).