6 *** Sunday 20 June 2021 The Sunday Telegraph The Sunday Telegraph Sunday 20 June 2021 *** 7

 Tile style: Pyrgi ciples – from Orthodox pilgrims to jet- by accident – they hopped over village in is setting fashion editors – is the from while waiting for a little known but full of character Alpha and Omega of Greek islands. delayed flight. “We’d visited lots of  Patmos is an eight-hour ride , though Tinos, typified Find your  At the helm: from . The nearest international in guides as a Greek Lourdes, somehow island hop airport is five islands away. Scott got missed,” recalls Peter. “We found around the Williams (01749 812721; scottwilliams. beautiful landscapes, fields of arti - archipelago by co.uk) has a couple of handsome villas on chokes, heavenly beaches and excellent hiring a boat Patmos, from €2,900 (£2,490) per week. tavernas. In a green valley dotted with car-free villages, someone showed us an ancient, dilapidated house once the Greek island home of a bishop. It was for sale. Our life K suddenly changed – too big to restore is for for just the two of us, we created a hotel set among quiet terraces.” Filled with The closest to Athens of all the , contemporary art and design, local Kea is a game of two halves. The yacht , mosaics, and antiques, Xinara love match set flirt over lobster spaghetti in the bays House is one of the most exceptional of Vourkari and Koundouros, while pur- guesthouses in Greece. ists commune with nature in the oak-  Prices per night (low season) from Quick fling or lengthy affair, you’ll find your ideal clad hills, where sheep huddle around €100 (£85) for 2-3 people, €375 (£320) ice-cold springs, and farmers till their for 8-10 people (xinarahouse.com). Tinos sunshine isle with our A-Z, says Rachel Howard fields with donkeys. Whatever your is easily reached by ferry from Mykonos island style, don’t miss the incredible (15-30 minutes) or Athens (2-4 hours). (and incredibly remote) ruins of Karthea. Both have international airports.  Kea is one hour by ferry from the port of Lavrion. For splendid isolation, hole up at Kathikies’ (kathikies.gr) two f I had a drachma for every time  Lose yourself in 671; nikolaouresidence.gr) from €80 100-year-old farmhouses on the edge of Y someone asked me which Greek whitewashed (£70) in low season. the world. From €575 (£490) per week. is for Yoga island to visit, I’d be as rich as Midas. villages fragrant I with bougainvillea Finding the perfect Greek island for Lithe, lean and radiant, Anna Martinou

friends (or even strangers – I receive  has the and Eranthi Karamali are poster girls for many unsolicited emails requesting B L their yoga retreats. “Our retreats draw clearest waters advice) is like matchmaking: it doesn’t and is not overrun is for Beaches is for upon our childhood memories of sum- always work; but when you get it right, with tourists mers in the Cyclades. The freedom of it’s love at first sight. But how can you From rolling sand dunes to remote peb- Sailing into the lake-like harbour of the first dive, the sweetness of a salty choose just one island, when all are ble coves, echoing sea caves to thumping Lakki is a surreal experience. Along the watermelon, the failed handstands in lovely in their own idiosyncratic way? beach bars, the Greek islands have waterfront are monuments to Musso- mer heat but can whip the mind into an the sand and the joy of having nothing I would describe my own relation- beaches for every mood. The powdery lini’s imperialist aspirations: a 1930s frenzy. Perhaps that’s why Mykonos, to worry about than your forgot- ship to the Greek islands as polyam - white sands of and town, with a school, market hall, hotel P U the windiest isle, has such a wild and ten sunglasses,” says Martinou. As well orous. There are islands I can’t get have legions of fans, but my money is on and cinema, all built in the rationalist is for Paxos is for Underwater diving restless spirit. According to Ileana von as open-air classes by renowned yogis, enough of, like , Tinos and Amorgos. This far-flung Cycladic isle has style. The wide boulevards and curva- Hirsch, of Five Star Greece: “The melt- Fykiada retreats celebrate simple pleas- . Others I rely on for quick thrills: the clearest water, the fewest crowds ceous buildings are unexpected. The “Paxos is a bubble of serenity and still- Greece recently opened up 91 underwa- emi comes in three strengths: kapelata ures: kayaking through sea caves, hikes , and Kea, only an hour or and the widest horizons. No wonder Luc rest of Leros is quiet and unassuming. ness in spring,” says Faye Lychnou, co- ter ship and aircraft wrecks to divers. – blows hats off; kareklata – blows chairs to hilltop monasteries, the taste of a real two from Athens. There are the youth- Besson shot The Big Blue here.  Olympic Air (olympicair.com) has founder of Friends of Paxos, an Though predominantly from the Second over; and trapezata – blows tables over.” tomato. “We call this ‘the island effect’: ful summer flings, like and Koufo-  It’s a seven to nine-hour ferry journey daily flights from Athens to Leros in association that supports cultural con- World War, some are much older; like the If you’re into windsurfing or people leave our retreats with a nissi, that I don’t dare revisit in case from Athens to Amorgos (check openseas. summer. Or fly direct to , or servation on this sophisticated Ionian 2,500-year-old shipwreck, off kitesurfing, head to or , straighter spine and a bigger smile.” they have lost their lustre. And then gr for schedules). No-frills Minoa Hotel and take a ferry from there. island. Come summer, tiny Paxos teems the coast of Alonissos. The ship’s cargo where Aeolus will put the wind in  In 2021, Fykiada ( fykiada.com) is there are the islands that have eluded (00 30 22850 71480; hotelminoa.gr) is Archontiko Angelou (+30 22470 22749; with stylish Italians and posh Brits. included around 4,000 amphorae of your sails. hosting six retreats on Koufonissia me, like unrequited lovers – best laid well-placed on Katapola waterfront; hotel-angelou-leros.com) a delightful While Bono and Roman Abramovich wine, plus enough crockery for a full- and Mykonos. plans scuppered by sudden gales, ferry doubles from €45 (£38). Vorina manor house from 1985, has doubles jostle for mooring space outside the fan- blown symposium. strikes or just the overwhelming urge to Ktismata (00 30 22850 71580; from €60 (£50). ciest seafood restaurants, the ancient  At a depth of around 30m, the Peristera miss the boat rather than travel onwards vorinaktismata.com) is more upmarket; olive groves scattered with secluded is accessible only to advanced divers X to the next island. doubles from €145 (£125). stone houses are deliciously peaceful. accompanied by accredited guides, such is for Xinara House Z Over the years, I’ve stayed in super- As well as a summer arts festival (this as Triton Alonissos Dive Centre (00 30 is for Zen swanky resorts on Mykonos, cliffhang- M year, all venues will be open-air), 24240 65804; bestdivingingreece.com). Peter and Susan Marston stumbled on ing villas on and shipowners’ is for Marathi Friends of Paxos organises bimonthly Yes, Z is for Zakynthos, the Ionian island mansions on . I’ve had the run of a C history walks, uncovering traces of the that is shaking off its tawdry reputation private island off the coast of Evia. But is for Chios Population: five. Beaches: one. Cars and Venetians and British, who tussled over with a splurge of adult-only hotels. the memories imprinted in my psyche shops: none. When the Emilianos fam- Paxos for about 400 years. V But for serious Zen, head to are not the Greece of holiday brochures “Chios is an island of unique character – ily jumped ship at Marathi, a speck in  The Thinking Traveller (020 7377 is for Vaccines where Kaisanji, Greece’s first Buddhist and airbrushed Instagrammers. They taking in a bloody history, 20 medieval the , in 1977, there was no 8518; thethinkingtraveller.com) has monastery, opened in May. Set among are the moments of quiet communion fortified villages, a Unesco listed monas- electricity and no running water. Unde- several charming villas on Paxos. A The Greek government is vaccinating acres of vineyards and olive trees, over- with the landscapes, people and rituals tery and good walking opportunities,” terred, they set up a seaside taverna week at Panayia View costs from £2,985 the populations of islands with fewer looking the empty sweep of Kalo of these small, intense worlds. I’ve slept says Dudley der Parthog, Sunvil’s Greece where everything was fished, grazed (sleeping 8). than 5,000 residents to reassure tourists Ambeli beach, Kaisanji means “the tem- in the clouds at an abandoned monas- director. “Given that the island possesses ‘Happy is and grown locally. Pantelis taverna has that these destinations are Covid-free. ple of mountain and sea”. Slipped into tery on Anafi; travelled to a church fes- such variety, it remains remarkably little become a cult stopover for Greek island  Kastellorizo was the first Greek island the folds of the landscape, the low stone tival in the back of a tractor on Rinia; known.” Perhaps the local shipowners the man, I connoisseurs – particularly those with to be declared Covid-free. Mediterraneo structure balances Cycladic and Japa- pressed grapes with my bare feet in the prefer to keep this large, rugged island to their own yachts. Don’t have your own Q (00 30 22460 49007; mediterraneo- nese traditions as harmoniously as highlands of ; had raki shots and themselves. thought, boat? Book one of the modest cottages. is for Quiet megisti.com) has seven waterfront the temple bells reverberating across prickly pears for breakfast in a shep -  A seven-night stay at the characterful  Pantelis Taverna (00 30 22470 rooms brimming with character. the valley. Still the mind and simply herd’s hut on Amorgos. Kyma Hotel in Chios town costs from who, before 32609; marathi-island.gr). Various boat For privacy and peace, check into the Doubles from €100 (£85). be present – the best therapy in these Transport Secretary Grant Shapps £849 pp (two sharing), including flights, companies offer day trips to Marathi Rooster. Hunkered into the low-slung turbulent times. has indicated that islands may be B&B and transfers. (020 8758 4758; dying, has from Patmos, Leros, and Lipsi. hills of , this eco-minded  Suggested contribution is €450 treated differently from the mainlands sunvil.co.uk) the good retreat overlooks a wild, windswept (£385), including classes, when vying for inclusion on the Gov- beach. Nature works its healing magic W accommodation and meals ernment’s green list. And yet, even now, fortune to here. The deliciously wholesome food is for Wind (zencenterathens.com/en/retreats/ we are in the dark as to which of the N (much of it sourced from the organic kaisanji-retreats). Greek islands might make the cut. Eve- D sail the is for 1900 farm) and deeply restorative spa treat- There’s a reason why the Cyclades are rything is currently amber, but with a is for ments simply accelerate the process. so beautifully barren. The meltemi, the  And breathe… yoga sessions with Overseas holidays are currently subject certain amount of nuance in there: the ’ “I’ve been in love with the Mastoridis “Listen to the sounds around you,” says fierce northerly wind, cools the sum- sun and a sea view replenish the soul to restrictions. See Page 3. When Despotiko’s sole inhabitant, a Lexi, my radiant young instructor, as we shepherd, spotted a Byzantine coin in ease into a gentle round of sun saluta- his dusty goat pen, he didn’t realise how tions at the outdoor shala. momentous that discovery would be.  Garden-view suites from €580 (£500) When archaeologists investigated, they B&B. (00 30 22844 40900; uncovered several marble columns, theroosterantiparos.com) fragments of archaic statues and hun- dreds of shards inscribed with the word “Apollo”. It turns out Despotiko, a tiny island between Paros and Antiparos, R was one of the most important sanctu- is for Ruins aries in antiquity. A few minutes’ boat ride from beach on Santorini has Akrotiri, Mykonos has Antiparos, Despotiko is as awe-inspir- , Crete has Knossos – three of the ing as Delos, without the jostling day- most important archaeological sites in trippers from Mykonos. Greece. Equally impressive yet barely  Captain George “Sargos” Marianos on the tourist radar, the Sanctuary of (0030 697 3794876; sargosantiparos.gr) the Great Gods on is hidden offers boat trips around Despotiko on his in a wooded ravine. The secret rites per- wooden kaiki. Stay at the Rooster formed here were never recorded, as (theroosterantiparos.com), a new the ancients feared retribution by the wellness retreat on neighbouring Kabiroi, twin demons who could whip Antiparos. From €580 (£500), including up deadly storms. Epic in scale and set- complimentary yoga and meditation. ting, this mysterious sanctuary can often be enjoyed in absolute solitude.  Palaiopolis, Samothraki (+30 25510 E 41474, open daily 8.30am-4pm) is for Elafonisos TRUNK ARCHIVE; GETTY; FYKIADA RETREATS FYKIADA GETTY; ARCHIVE; TRUNK Adrift off the eastern tip of the Pelopon- S FCDO advises against all but essential nese, tiny Elafonisos could be in the holiday on Crete, but the island’s true mansion for years,” says architect Dimi- is for Sailing travel to Greece, except for the islands Caribbean rather than the Aegean. The nature is hidden in its spectacular tris Zographos, who has masterfully of Rhodes, Kos, Zakynthos, and sandy beaches are as fine as flour, the COMPETITION gorges. Samaria is the most famous, but I restored many neoclassical mansions “Happy is the man, I thought, who, Crete. Some package operators are still sea palest turquoise. Instead of palm there are dozens of less challenging is for on the Dodecanese island of . “A before dying, has the good fortune to travelling to those lucky five (although trees swaying in the breeze, there are Tell us about your favourite Greek island for the chance to win options. Maria Mylonaki, of Crete spe- ship’s captain, Mastoridis, brought the sail the Aegean Sea,” wrote Nikos you will still have to quarantine on cedars and sand lilies; instead of swim- a private guided tour for up to six people worth £250 cialists Diktynna Travel, recommends “A love affair between romantic Britons first diving suit to Symi, a present from Kazantzakis in his classic novel, Zorba return). By late summer, an alphabet of ming with tropical fish, you can snorkel the Aradena gorge, which begins at an and the Ionian Islands has been going the Brits while he was working in the the Greek. Cruising offers sur- islands could be open (although given over the submerged city of abandoned village and ends with a swim on for 200 years,” says Ileana von West Indies. It was his wife – a woman prisingly affordable yacht charters, day current advice, it makes sense not to Pavlopetri. The twin bays of Simos are in the Libyan Sea; Agia Irini, shaded by Hirsch, a native of and the in 1862 – who had the courage to try it trips, and water limo services in the commit to booking anywhere just yet). the most photogenic, but very crowded Do the holiday suggestions the emergence of The ancient olive trees; or Zakros, whose founder of luxury villa agency Five Star for the first time in front of all the men, Argo-. If you really want Rather than working my way around in high summer. on these pages bring back Specials and the “two-tone” caves contained Minoan tombs. “The Greece. “The islands were part of the who were reluctant to do so.” This inci- to push the boat out, the Alexa J is a sin- the archipelago from to Zakyn-  Elafonisos is a nine-minute, €1 ferry happy memories of a sound of the 1980s. Learn canyons resemble the Cretan character: British Empire for 40 years,” she contin- dent changed the fortunes of Symi, gle cabin schooner that comes with six thos, I’ll let the winds and gods plot my ride from Pounta, in the . favourite Greek island you how Coventry became rugged, rough, to be approached with ues. “Edward Lear painted the Corfu which soon developed the world’s larg- crew members. course. Like every summer, I hope to be Accommodation on the island is basic. have visited? From the Britain’s “Motor City” or caution, but always generous and by no landscape and Lord Byron was offered est sponge diving fleet. Now, Zographos  Spetses Cruising (spetsescruising. falling in love with the Greek islands all Instead, check into Kinsterna (00 30 powdery white sands of visit Sir Basil Spence’s means boring,” says Mylonaki. the crown of Ithaca by the locals is transforming this magnificent 19th- com) operates skippered day cruises for over again. 27320 66300, kinsternahotel.gr/en), a Lefkada and Zakynthos to iconic cathedral, a poignant  Diktynna Travel (00 30 28210 41458; (sadly he turned it down, but was century mansion into a heritage hotel up to 8 passengers from €2,000 (£1,700). Byzantine manor house that’s a the clear waters and olive symbol of the city’s diktynna-travel.gr) has walking guides tempted). The Durrells were following a with just four sea-facing suites steeped Black Tomato (020 7426 9888; 45-minute drive from Pounta. Doubles groves of the Ionian Islands post-war renaissance, who are not just wilderness and wildlife respected tradition of fleeing Albion’s in history. blacktomato.com) can arrange a from €178 (£150). and the ancient ruins of in the company of a experts. They will unlock chapels dank and grimy shores for the clarity of  1900 Hotel (00 30 6944 623284; seven-night trip on the Alexa J for

A Mykonos and Crete, these COVENTRY NEIL CATLEY/VISIT local expert. covered in frescoes and pre-order fish Ionian water, the soft breezes, sultry 1900hotel.com) opens in June 2021. £9,500 per night, including flights and is for Aegina islands have something for  Explore historic Coventry soup at the best taverna. mountains and shady groves of Suites from €220 (£190). full board. everyone. We’d like to with a Blue Badge Tourist Guide HOW TO ENTER cypress and olive.” Only an hour from Athens, Aegina F know which one you love Email your entry (no more  With commanding views, elegant should be overrun with tourists. Yet is for best – and why. expertise will turn a than 150 words) together interiors, and access to a private jetty, this rough-around-the-edges island The reader who sends in good visitor experience with your name, address H Corfu MC is a testament to its Anglo- O T remains largely undiscovered. “Aegina Is this the quintessential Cycladic the best entry wins a private into a great one. To find a and phone number, by is for Hydra Greek owners’ fine taste. From €18,000 is for is for Tsikoudia is definitely not the most beautiful island? Sugar-cube village, clifftop guided tour for up to six Blue Badge Tourist Guide midnight on Wednesday (15,400) per week, sleeps 8 (020 8422 island in Greece, nor the trendy place it monastery, luminous bays accessible people, worth £250. in your chosen area, visit June 23, to yoursay@ “Ouzo, intrigue and Leonard Cohen” is 4885; fivestargreece.com). “Lesvos has the best ouzo in the world,” Other islanders drink Greek coffee; the was in the 60s, but it has a unique only by boat or vertiginous dirt tracks – britainsbestguides.org. telegraph.co.uk. Only one how one review described A Theatre for says Vicki Atsikbasis, owner of Little Cretans drink shots of fiery tsikoudia. atmosphere,” says Isabelle Zigliara, who check, check, check. Folegandros is no ABOUT THE PROVIDER prize can be won per Dreamers, Polly Samson’s novel about Bird, a charming guesthouse and café And they will insist that you do, too. left Paris to set up La Conciergerie ‘Chios is of longer the hippy hideaway it once was, The Institute of Tourist THE PRIZE person and it is non- an ingénue’s coming of age in the bohe- near the village of Petra. “In Lesvos, Lawrence Durrell warned of the conse- d’Egine (en.laconciergerie-egine.com). but it still has enough rustic charm to be Guiding (itg.org.uk) is the Enjoy a private guided tour transferable and non- mian swirl of 1960s Hydra. Heady, lan- J they say it’s not about where you drink quences of getting carried away by Cre- Her portfolio of villas includes the for- unique quietly, intensely cool. professional body for for up to six people in refundable. Other T&Cs guorous Hydra hasn’t changed that is for John of Patmos the ouzo but who you drink it with. We tan hospitality: “There are few hazards mer home and studio of renowned  Fly to Santorini then take the tourist guiding and a location of your choice, apply. See telegraph.co.uk/ much since then: its architectural integ- do still have our favourite spots for in such warm-hearted company, but I painter Nikos Nikolaou. “A lot of Greek character high-speed ferry (seajets.gr) to represents more than worth £250, with an tt-yourtravels for details. rity is intact, motorised vehicles are still Don’t be put off by St John’s visions of drinking with wonderful company, can think of one. The drink called tsik- intellectuals used to gather in the gar- Folegandros. Family-run Anemomilos 1,400 Blue Badge Tourist entertaining and banned, and courtyard tavernas draped fire and brimstone. Patmos is a heavenly such as the quaint Caravan Eatery, oudia, a kind of local marc or grappa, den, gazing at the sea and having con- – taking in (00 30 22860 41309; anemomiloshotel. Guides across England, knowledgeable Blue Badge in jasmine still thrum with artists, writ- revelation. The valleys are speckled with located on the beach just below which has been piously distilled from versations until late at night,” says com) has stylish studios, dangling on a Northern Ireland and Tourist Guide. Perhaps you ers and muses. Yes, it’s craggy, costly white chapels, the gentle coastline scal- Little Bird, the seaside tavernas at Petra, dragon’s bones, fills one with a strange Zigliara. “The three suites have been a bloody cliff-edge, from £145. Jersey who are the best in will choose Coventry, UK and has barely any beaches, but Hydra’s loped with naked beaches. All winding picturesque Molyvos harbour and Byzantine effulgence if drunk by the elegantly restored by Nikolaou’s heirs: the business, offering City of Culture 2021, where allure remains irresistible. roads lead to Chora, the most beautiful Plomari village, where the best ouzo pailful. The resulting hangover makes the architect Theodore Zoumboulakis history guided tours (within legal your tour can be tailor-  Bring the gang and shack up at village in the Aegean – a blinding white comes from.” you feel like one of those sad, haloed and his sister, the gallerist Daphne and 20 limits for gatherings) at made to explore the legend Kamini House (00 30 6932906377; maze huddled around a fortified monas-  Jet2Holidays ( jet2holidays.com) saints in the icons.” Zoumboulakis.” The house features G many of the UK’s most of Lady Godiva, discover hipawayvillas.com), the picture of tery founded in AD1088. Dripping with flies direct to Lesvos from the UK.  Salis (00 30 28210 43700; drawings by Nikolaou and sculptures medieval is for Gorges fabulous locations. how the city inspired blue-and-white perfection, with terraces bejewelled icons and Byzantine treas- One-bed villas at Little Bird (00 30 salischania.com) has the most extensive by his friend . A Blue Badge Tourist George Eliot’s shaded by exuberant bougainvillea. ures, the monastery’s spiritual energy is 22530 42217; littlebirdlesvos.com) from Greek wine list on Crete – and a strong  Nikolaou Residence (00 30 697 2580 villages’ You could have a perfectly lazy beach Guide’s knowledge and Middlemarch or retrace From €800 (£686) per night, sleeps 8. palpable and profound. To its many dis- €90 (£77) a night. tsikoudia game, too.