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Gastronomie Dans L'empire Français

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Gastronomie Dans L'empire Français ‐ ‐ ‐ ‐ Tristan d’Oelsnitz GASTRONOMIE DANS L’EMPIRE FRANÇAIS _________________ 1 ‐ ‐ ‐ ‐ GASTRONOMIE DANS L’EMPIRE FRANÇAIS 39 terres profondes explorées en 191 recettes ____________________ 2 ‐ ‐ ‐ ‐ . Claude Lévy‐Strauss disait de la cuisine que l’on n’en a « pas assez souvent souligné qu’ avec le langage elle constitue une forme d’activité humaine véritablement universelle. » En appliquant à l’anthropologie sociale la méthode structurale, conçue par le grand linguiste Ferdinand de Saussure, if la révolutionna, opposant dans ses analyses le cru et le cuit , le grillé (chaleur extérieure) et le bouilli (chaleur intérieure. ) Le lien était créé entre la gastronomie et les sciences humaines. Les déplacements de populations ont démontré que les habitudes alimentaires sont les plus tenaces. Ce qui explique que New York, principal point d’arrivée des immigrants aux Etats‐ Unis, a la restauration la plus cosmopolite du monde. Ce qui n’empêche pas l’art culinaire de partager, avec la musique, le privilège d’être accessible à tous, au‐delà des divergences politiques ou philosophiques, directement et sans le recours à un interprète. La mondialisation nous invite aujourd’hui à explorer le patrimoine gastronomique de l’humanité dans toute sa diversité. Les pages qui suivent réunissent des recettes de cuisine originaires de presque tous les pays ou territoires d’outremer où la France a exercé durablement son autorité. Certains vivent toujours dans la cadre de la République. La plupart ont accédé à l’autonomie ou à l’indépendance. Ces pays sont répartis entre toutes les grandes entités géopolitiques, les principales exceptions étant l’Europe, l’Asie centrale et septentrionale, et le Japon . En revanche sont évoquées certaines régions qui ne faisaient plus partie de l’Empire français bien avant la décolonisation, comme le Québec, la Louisiane, les comptoirs de l’Inde, l’Ile Maurice ou Haïti. Ce qui compte ici n’est pas l’exercice d’une puissance mais la cohabitation de cultures différentes qui a pu se produire à certains moments de l’histoire , des contacts qui s’approfondissent aujourd’hui Diverses motivations ont contribué à l’édification de cet empire comme celles des autre grandes nations colonisatrices: sécuriser et rentabiliser les approvisionnements de la métropole en denrées exotiques, créer des bases maritimes fortifiées, contrarier les ambitions des puissances rivales. La IIIème République qui a partiellement compensé, notamment en Afrique, les pertes de possessions subies au XVIIIème siècle, a justifié ces conquêtes par le souci d’assurer aux populations autochtones les progrès de la civilisation. Les pouvoirs publics n’en tiraient pas profit stricto sensu, soulignaient les dirigeants de l’époque, car la règle était que l’Empire ne devait rien rapporter ni coûter à la métropole. 3 ‐ ‐ ‐ ‐ L’étude du sujet, dans le cadre des grandes familles gastronomiques, invite à réfléchir sur leurs influences réciproques. Des influences consécutives aux conquêtes mais aussi, comme actuellement, aux courants migratoires à travers la planète. La cohabitation n’a pas toujours suffi à amorcer les enrichissements mutuels. Les rapports de force ont joué aussi un rôle comme on a pu le constater pendant l’ère coloniale française. Les cuisiniers « indigènes » au service des administrateurs publics ou privés, en Afrique ou en Asie, ont bien été obligés de convertir leurs talents aux normes métropolitaines. Des connaissances qui pouvaient être ensuite mises à profit dans la restauration locale. Mais il n’y a pas eu à proprement parler dans les diverses parties de cet empire, de « colonisation culinaire ». Tout au plus des influences ponctuelles. Rentrés au pays en fin de carrière, les administrateurs français n’ont guère instruit leurs concitoyens des saveurs de leurs anciens pays de résidence. La restauration exotique n’a fait qu’une timide apparition avec des restaurants ouverts dans les années trente par la diaspora chinoise ou maghrébine. Les choses ont radicalement changé après la Deuxième guerre mondiale, avec les progrès accélérés de l’aviation civile. Les « cuisines d’ailleurs » ont fait leur entrée jusque dans le cadre familial. En conséquence les grandes surfaces ont offert des produits alimentaires exotiques de plus en plus variés. Ce qui permettra au lecteur de faire, s’il le désire, son tour du monde au fourneau. ______________________________________________ Contenu et présentation de l’ouvrage 4 ‐ ‐ ‐ ‐ Ce livre a été écrit à l’intention de personnes moyennement qualifiées sur le plan technique et soucieuses de faire la fête avec leurs amis plutôt que d’être confinées dans la cuisine au moment où tout le monde s’amuse. Les recettes sont donc présentées en vue de favoriser la préparation précoce des ingrédients (épluchage, découpage, dosage, mélanges, etc.) éventuellement la veille de la cuisson. La liste des ingrédients est agencée en fonction de la séquence d’utilisation : le premier de la liste est celui utilisé au début, etc. Le vocabulaire technique est évité de préférence, mais un glossaire des termes les plus courants ou propres aux pays évoqués figure après la table des matières (p. 21.) Les recettes sont réparties entre huit zones géographiques : Asie, pays arabes et maghrébins, Afrique sub‐saharienne, Antilles, Amérique du sud, Amérique du nord et Océanie. Une notice sur l’antarctique figure in fine. Dans le cadre de ces zones les pays sont classés par ordre alphabétique. Ce panorama ne saurait constituer un relevé culinaire exhaustif des pays évoqués. Les recettes ont été choisies en fonction de plusieurs critères : saveur, représentativité, originalité, facilité d’exécution et, dans toute la mesure du possible, disponibilité des ingrédients. De ce point de vue on note la présence accrue dans les grandes agglomérations d’épiceries arabes, asiatiques et même africaines. Certains sites Internet permettent le télé‐ achat de produits exotiques. Sauf indication contraire les recettes sont données pour 4 personnes. Les temps de cuisson sont indicatifs car le résultat dépend aussi du matériel et des principaux ingrédients. Le sommaire ci‐dessous permettra de choisir une recette par pays tandis que la table des matières guidera plutôt la lecture en fonction des principaux ingrédients. __________________________________________ SOMMAIRE 5 ‐ ‐ ‐ ‐ Avant propos ………………………………….... 3 Présentation de l’ouvrage ….................. 4 Table des matières (recettes) ................ 9 Asie ………………………………………………….. 23 Cambodge …………………………………………23 Inde ………………………………………………… .31 Laos …………………………………………………. 39 Changhaï ………………………………………… 45 Viêt‐Nam …………………………….…………… 54 Maghreb et pays arabes …………..……. 66 Algérie …………………...……………..……….. 66 Cuisine pied noir ……………………….....… 74 Liban …………………………………….....…….. 84 Maroc ………………………………….…………..96 Mauritanie …………………………..……… …..106 Syrie …………………………………..…………….. 111 Tunisie …………………………….....……. …….118 Océan indien ………………..…………………. 124 6 ‐ ‐ ‐ ‐ Comores ……………………………..…... ……..124 Madagascar …………………………………...…132 Maurice ………………………………....…….. 141 La Réunion …………………….……… ……...…146 Afrique subsaharienne et orientale … .157 Afrique Occidentale Française …………. 157 Bénin …………………………………….. ….. …. 159 Burkina Faso …………………………………… 158, 161 Cameroun ……..…………………………………158, 163 Côte d’Ivoire ……………..……………………. 157, 165 Guinée …………...………………………….……. 157, 167 Mali ……....…..…………………………….…….. 157, 168 Niger …………………………......………..………158, 170 Togo ……………………....…………..…………… 158, 173 Afrique Équatoriale Française ……....…. 174 Gabon ……………………………………....…….. 175 République centrafricaine ……....……….. 174, 177 7 ‐ ‐ ‐ ‐ Tchad …………….…………………………....…… 174, 179 Afrique Orientale …………....……………….. 180 Djibouti …………………………….....…………… 181 Antilles ……………………………….....…………. 187 Haïti …………………………………......………….. 188‐190 Guadeloupe ………………………….......….….. 200 Martinique ………………………….........………. 208 Amérique du Sud ……………………........……. 216 Guyane ………………………………….........…….. 216 Amérique du Nord ………………...........………..225 Louisiane ……………………...........……………….. 225 Québec …………………………………............…….. 240 Saint‐Pierre et Miquelon ………............……. 260 Océanie ....................................................... 269 Nouvelle‐Calédonie .................................... 269 Polynésie française ………..............……………… 2782 Wallis et Futuna …………...............……………….. 283 8 ‐ ‐ ‐ ‐ Vanuatu ……………………………………….. ………….. 296 Terres australes et antarctiques françaises … 302 ________________________ TABLE DES MATIÈRES Potages Potage de poisson aux pousses de bambou …………….......……………… 56 Soupe de poisson au citron vert ……………………… …………………………… 25 Soupe de crevettes ……………………………………………………………………….. 42 Soupe au concombre ……………………………………………………………………. 46 Soupe aux huîtres …………………………………………………………………………225 Fah fah ………………………………………………………………………………………..…181 Hors d’œuvre , salades Accras d’aubergines ………………………………………………………………………. 206 Accras de morue ……………………………………………………………………………. 190 Achard de mangue verte ……………………………………………………………….. 121 9 ‐ ‐ ‐ ‐ Allumettes aux anchois .........................................................................77 Avocat au gingembre …………………………………………………………………….. 166 Carottes râpées à l’orange …………………………………………………………….. 97 Carpaccio de Saint‐Jacques marinées ……………………………………………. 275 Cœurs de coco aux chevrettes ………………………………………………………. 286 Dip de carottes à la touareg …………………………………………………….…….. 110 Entrée de crabe au poulet …………………………………………………………….. 295 Escargots en frita …………………………………………………………………………….. 76 Falafel …………………………………………………………………………………….……..… 87 Fattouche ……………………………………………………………………………………..….
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