24 >y HOLLAND

~~ COMMEMOR^ATIMG THE i C E N X E ISl A.R_Y CELEBK-ATION OFTHE IMM(S]D@M@i-^^MimrMEl,MHIDa ifiUDnCAiniOM^a^^^IFMCEIPALACE- ^j>u.us..o --.HOLLANDAMERICALINE-

HOLLAND THE HOME OF PEACE "\^

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A Great Ocean Liner Leaving the Port of Rotterdam

(New triple-screw turbine ateamsHip "Slaleadam '* of the Holland-America Line)

32,500 tons register (Now building) 43,000 tons displacement HOLLAND THE HOME OF PEACE

JAMES HjGORE PhD.LLD.

Author oj

" Holland as seen by an American," 'Dutcli Art as seen by a Layman,"

"" How to see Holland, etc., etc.

COAVAEAVORATING f£e ' CENTENARYCELEBRATION KINGDOno^/eNETHERLANDS

^ DEDICATION o^^e. ^ PEACE PALACE

NEW YORK PUBLISHED BY

'^ MCMXIII ^^ '*' ^\^^

Copyrighted. 1913

HoU and -America Line

Designed, Engraved and Primed by The William Darling Press. New York — c:.

Harborview, Rotterdam

N recent years the call for arbi- without timber she has constructed navies tration has gone up and down which have disputed the sea with the most the land, disarmament has been powerful Heets.

the cry of well-meaning people. It is not astonishmg that even a sterile coun- Peace Congresses have held try should, by cultivation, produce grain and

long and important Sessions at stock, but it is surprising that Holland should The Hague, and in a few months there will be exist. dedicated in this the Palace of Peace. That which interests the traveler more than

At first it seems paradoxical to associate Hol- the local scenery, the character of the people, land—the usual name for the or the prosperity of the country, is the mystery with Peace. Those who know this country of formation and strange destiny which is ex-

best, its land, and its history, think of the con- plained partly by nature and partly by human

flicts which have been waged here, waged industry. Flat as a calm ocean, indented by against the elements and against man. They gulfs and bays, eaten away by interior lakes, think of the country where the rivers run, so and intersected by rivers, Holland seems to to speak, above the heads of the inhabitants, have been for ages the arena of combat be- where powerful rest below the level of tween land and sea. the sea which surges against them, where por- In other countries where science seeks to un-

tions of the cultivated fields are invaded by ravel geologic problems, it examines the testi- the waters and in turn freed from them, where mony of the rocks and reads from mountains islands have been attached to the continent by regarding whose structure history is silent. ropes of sand, and where parts of the solid Human genius follows the action of forces ground have been transformed into islands. which spent themselves anterior to man's prob-

Holland, without quarries, has erected mag- able entry, but in Holland all is new, the gulfs, nificent buildings and substantial cities, almost lakes and islands, and even entire provinces

FIVE The '"Oosterkade", a Busy River Traffic Section at Rotterdam have come into existence under man's observa- The jesting answer, "The Dutch have taken tion. He has seen, within historic times, sand Holland," satisfied the query for news ad- close a river's mouth, land converted into w^ater, dressed returning skippers, and the second and lakes dry up and disappear. The ordinary question was seldom asked, though a more agencies of change, wind and waves, rain and truthful reply would have been, "The Dutch flood, and the rise and fall of land have here are taking Holland"—taking it by such slow been at work. Long after the Continent of and solemn degrees as the coral mite is build- Europe had become fixed and stable, Holland ing a mountain on old ocean's bed and by a began its geographic formation and is still pur- quiet perseverance that is equalled only by the suing processes intended to hold or enlarge her dripping stream that changes granite rocks into boundaries. sea-side sand. The Dutch are taking Holland

%• The Prinsengracht, and nature has endowed them with that Physical geography is loath to admit the patience and industry that enables them to existence of Holland, and blind gravity, in rob- gather solid and fruitful earth, inch by inch, bing the sluggish rivers of their load of sedi- from a roaring, encroaching sea. No other ment, has blocked their outlets into the sea, people but the Dutch are so well fitted to pump, and made them in turn destroy the land of scoop and shovel and rake a fine productive their creation. The sea has resisted this en- country out of a cold, sour, reedy marsh. croachment and in retreating it has continually The wind and waves said, "there shall be fought to regain lost territory. It has throwTi no land here"; the Dutch said, "there will be barriers across the river channels to make the land here", and out of the conflict there arose rivers themselves destroy the land of their cre-

ation, it has hurried the rich alluvial soil fath- "A land thai rides at anchor and is moored. oms deep under unproductive sands, and where On which people do not live but go aboard." it does not build a fortress against itself in the —

i-i O AA E i=>e: A. C E —

shape of sand-dunes, the state must accept the habit of boring into wood and even into stone challenge and begin a royal battle. of moderate hardness. The Pholas has a shell,

Along the North Sea there are stretches, armed with a saw, by which it is able to carve sometimes eight miles in length, along which out an habitation for itself and effectually there must be built dykes strong enough to destroy the timber or stone into which it cuts. withstand the heaviest storm and highest sea The danger from this source was not realized such are the dykes at Petten near , until it was accidentally discovered that at and Westkapelle on the island of Walcheren. many places the very bulwarks of Holland's The sea has had an ally in the dreaded safety were honeycombed. The discovery of teredo, or borer of the sea. In 1 732 it was this condition threw Holland into dismay. For- found that the ships from the East had carried tunately the means which were taken to protect with them a curious shell fish, which has the the piles unwittingly assisted in the extermina-

Canal Scene, Amsterdam was a unit in those vital matters of sustenance

and self-preservation, and its people naturally felt a greater allegiance to the local govern- ment than to a centralized power. From the liberty of the canton or village, a single differ- entiation led to the liberty of the individual. Under such conditions, an empire could never have come into existence; with such an origin, the United Netherlands are indissoluble.

A ZuYDER Zee Shore Scene tion of the terrible pest. Large-headed nails were driven into the wood so close together that they practically gave it a coat of mail, and now caution keeps the more important piles covered with copper sheeting. A worm has made Holland tremble—a triumph denied to the tempests of the Ocean and the anger of Philip of Spain. One never combats nature with abstractions.

In Holland, man is kept inevitably face to face with realities by the watchful care which his very existence demands and the material ob- stacles which must be conquered at every step. Patriotism never becomes dormant because the face of the land shows in its scars its history, and the love of Home grows at the reckoning of the cost of its retention.

One saw this little nation, almost imperceptible on the map of the world during the 1 6th Century, build dykes and contest with the sea for suprem- acy. In their struggle against Spain they pre- ferred to treat with the sea than with the Duke of Alva, and when no longer able to cope with a superior force, they cut the dykes and flooded provinces, preferring to drown themselves with the land of their creation than to live upon soil outraged by the feet of foreign foes. In this fragmentary country, broken mto parts by lakes, and cut into pieces by rivers and , interests centered around localized systems of Hydraulics. Thus one community Thro' the Woods, The Hague Mauritshuis Art Gallery and Vyverberg, The Hague

William of Orange was satisfied to be a Without science and industry, such a land Stadhouder, or local governor, and his succes- could never have beheld the light of day, and sors became kings in name rather than in func- but for incessant vigilance of its people it would tions. The present sovereign wishes to be as soon perish. Its creation is a miracle of human democratic as the great founder of the dynasty genius, its preservation is a monument to its and also strives to emphasize local pride and skill. patriotism by wearing, during her visits to the Urged by his religion to be patient under provinces, the costumes so dear to her people. affliction, the pious Hollander has continued to Without the Dutch, there would be no reconquer and refortify that which wind and

Netherlands. This country is in truth and in waves and grasping neighbors abstracted time fact their own creation and they have the un- and again from his possession, he has continued deniable right to look upon their work and say to scoop the mud into ridges, to face the ridges

"It is good." with stone, and cover them with bricks and set trees upon their borders, has continued to drive piles into the marshes, set cities on the

piles and sail ships to the cities of his creation; nor has he ceased to catch herrings for the South, bring spices for the North, weave wool- ens for the East and print books for the World. The other conflicts which Holland waged were not so bloodless. They included the greatest and most important of all European wars, that in which the seven provinces of Holland secured their independence against Philip, the monarch who was supposed to possess the mightiest forces of the age. Hol-

land was won by its people, acre by acre, field Canal, North Holland by field, against the best European troops of L.^ O AA E OF* PEA-CE

the time, the craftiest generals, and apparently this revolt was the repudiation of the divine boundless resources. rights of Kings and the divine authority of the The success of this struggle stimulated simi- Pope. lar efforts in other countries and though failure In throwing off the yoke of Spain the for- as often as success crowned these efforts, gov- mal announcement was made in the "Act of

ernments were purified, lofty principles vindi- Abjuration." In this act was found the first cated and ignoble ambitions crushed. enunciation of the duties of rulers to their

Undoubtedly the precedent of the Dutch people and an affirmation that there is, and revolt was before the minds of those who drew must be, a contract between the ruler and the up the Declaration of American Independence. people, even though that contract has not been

The French Government, to show its unfriend- reduced to writing, or debated on, or fought liness to England, intervened on behalf of for. Unexpressed in words but declared in American freedom and sowed the seeds of the substance was the novel theory now enjoyed

French Revolution. The successful issue of by the world in its fullness that men and women

Models of Old Dutch Sailing Vessels in St. Bavo Church, _!

are not the private estate of princes, to be dis- antiquarian a little farther south, would show posed of in their industry, their property, and you the Druse canals and the Roman road- their consciences, by the whim or fancy of ways." those who were fortunate enough to be able At whatever cost Rome achieved her con- to Hve by the labors of others. quests the debt was more than paid in the When Julius Caesar was engaged in extend- municipal institutions which survived the bar- ing the Roman Empire over the northern tribes barous inroads of Hun, Goth and Vandal and of the great Teutonic race, he found the terri- the towns, in the enjoyment of their chartered tory enclosed between the two principal arms rights, made laws to meet local conditions and of the Rhine occupied by the Batavians. fostered industries to meet existing demands.

"The Batave was the noblest of savages. He Thus it was that when the Crusades trans- loved the solitude of the marsh and the forest, ferred military activities from home to foreign he inhabited the sea as much as the land, he lands and gave extra work to those who chose was as free as the wild fowl that frequented his the less romantic vocation of producing, the haunts, he was a constant friend and a ferocious towns of the low countries became veritable enemy, he was broad-browed, broad-shoul- hives of industry. The damp air prevalent in dered, strong-limbed, white-skinned, blue-eyed this section seemed to give a special texture man, who loved one wife and worshipped one to the goods woven here and in the lack of God. His race was driven by a succession of sufficient raw material from neighboring flocks, extraordinary tides from the island homes, to England was called upon to supply the de-

move southwardly among the tribes of stran- mand. Thus it was that from the time of the gers and became enveloped among the armies Edwards (1272) to the end of the Tudor line of Rome, lost by civilization many of their (1603) free intercourse with the Low Coun- noble characteristics, grew to be the most re- tries was of profound interest to England and liable soldiers of the Empire, held the balance to the Netherlands. If this trade were inter- of power between rival candidates for Em- rupted, thousands of looms would lie idle and peror, and lost their identity as a tribe, but poverty would show itself in the Flemish cities. as you walk through the streets of Trastevere The needs of the body and the demands of among the known descendants of the cap- fashion kept the shuttles flying and the song tains of the Roman Empire, your friend, the they sang was the song of Peace. tracer of races, will point you to a blue- Another potent influence for peace was the e3'ed woman, a yellow-haired child or a herring fishery industry which attained gigan-

red-bearded man and tic proportions because of the skill of the Dutch say, 'There goes in catching the fish and their secret process for Batavian blood.' curing them. The discipline of the church fe Just so, as you wan- prescribed a fish diet during divers periods of A der among the earth the year and the faithful were not disposed to fellf^kk walls of Zeeland and quarrel with their source of supply. The fish- , your eries of the North Sea were not only a mine antiquarian friend of wealth but became the nursery of the Dutch ^m^s will lead you to the Navy, of those amphibious mariners who struck top of some ridge the first blow for Dutch independence, crushed ^m now far inland, and in later years the maritime supremacy of Spain, quietly inform you founded the Batavian empire of Holland in w^h^m that 'that's Batavian the tropics, engaged in an unequal struggle with Naarden Dyke.' The same England, and upheld for a century the repu-

TWELVE tation of Holland after it had passed the zenith The type of Government called into exist- of its commercial greatness. ence by the industrial and commercial activi- These same hardy mariners developed the ties in the Netherlands after three centuries of great ti-ade with East India and laid the way successful operation subsequently became a for England's ultimate conquests m the East. source of weakness. The towns were the units They made voyages of discovery popular and in the scheme and the deans and masters of the in bringing back objects curious and interest- guilds eventually monopolized the government, ing laid the foundation for the earliest museum and extinguished the ancient right of free elec- in the world. The earlier voyagers gave Dutch tion, and the communities became practically names to capes, bays, islands and continents little republics whose deputies took common which now, in modified form, tell a graphic counsel together in general assemblies. But story of perilous exploration. with conflicting interests and competitive aspir-

The East Gate, Street Scene, Delft

ations the cities were quarrelsome and com- pion who sought a ruler from their midst. Vic- bative and only united to resist a grasping foe. tory ultimately crowned this effort, and in 1 648 Philip the Good inherited in the Nether- the United Netherlands achieved in the Peace lands the counties of Flanders and Artois. He of Munster their independence. purchased Namur, usurped the Duchy of While William did not hve to see the end

Brabant and took from his cousin Jacqueline, he so devoutly strove to achieve, he is regarded Holland, Zeeland, Hai- as the father of his country and Delft, his home

nault and Friesland. and place of burial, is visited by thousands.

From this time on, the "No town is richer than Delft in associations seventeen provinces that appeal to many different types of mind.

vv^hich made up the The traveler whose main object is to note the Netherlands were fought characteristic national features finds Delft quite for and fought over. as interesting as Leyden or Haarlem, though They were the booty differing much from both. The lover of Dutch for which foreign sov- architecture finds much to note in such build- ereigns contended and ings as the Gemeenlandshuis, the Town Hall

it was not until Wil- and the New Church. The compact, clean

liam of Orange revolted little town is rich in studies for the artist of agamst measures which to-day, and full of associations connected with he declared his liege past history of Dutch art. No man who is even Lord, Philip of Spain, partially acquainted with the thrilling story of would not sanction that Dutch history can go otherwise than as a rever- Zeeland the land had a cham- ent pilgrim to the town whose streets 'Father William' trod so often, to the house where he great square, stands a fine statue of Hugo lived and where he died, to the church—the St. Grotius. Denis of Holland—which witnessed the solemn It was a bold thing for Jacob Harmensen, ceremonials of his own funeral, and to which, known as Arminius, to question the doctrine one by one, his chief descendants have been of predestination, nor did the storm he raised brought. cease with his death in 1669. Unfortunately Here, too, the great market is a center of for his traducers his tenets had prevailed in interest. It is very spacious and at one end the University of Leyden and had been rises the west front and lofty steeple of the adopted by most of the higher and educated New Church, built in the early part of the class, and among them were found Barne-

1 5 th Century. veld and Grotius, but by the populace they Opposite this, and filling the west end of the were viewed with a fanatical abhorrence, fanned

Canal and Leaning Tower, Delft -F .' MA .•Vt/Sft'V*X9.

and excited by their rigid Calvinist Dort, or , is an ancient clergy headed by Gomarus. The city, one of the oldest in Holland,

conflict, at first religious, ultimately going back to the 1 0th Century. It

assumed political significance and stands on what is now an island involved the question as to whether which was torn from the mainland the churches were under the control in 1421 by an inundation—a catas- of the states or the Stadhouder. The trophe which is a part of every Gomarists proposed a national synod Dutchman's to-morrow. Here were to settle the religious aspects of the born the De Witt brothers whose controversy to which deputies came superior, as councilors and patriots, from The Netherlands, England, Holland has not been able to pro- Germany and Switzerland. After duce. The dome on ancient Groot- holding 180 Sessions at Dort, the hoofspoort, one of the town gates of Arminians were condemned, 200 of the 16th Century, contains, among their pastors were deposed, 80 were other relics, a collection of medals, banished, and in May, 1619, they some of which were struck in com- set forth a confession of faith, which memoration of the execution of the was long held by the Calvinistic two patriots just named.

party as of supreme authority. Dort is a delightful old town to The victory gained by Maurits, stroll about. The variety of gables, the Stadhouder, did not satisfy him. quite as extensive as in any other He was determined to rid himself Dutch town, the number of "pic- of Barneveld, who had opposed the turesque bits", in the artistic sense,

Synod of Dort and also Grotius. compressed into a small area, is very On fictitious charges the former was large, the huge ancient church tones unjustly condemned and executed and colors the landscape, and the on May 13th, 1619, and Grotius river and numerous canals and water- was sentenced to imprisonment for ways add to the charms.

life. After serving two years he es- The great Church is a fine build- caped, through the cunning of his ing, having a high, square tower, a wife, and took refuge in Paris where prominent landmark for miles around,

he completed his famous work on but the interior is the most desolate

"The Law of War and Peace." and apparently ill-cared for of all

FAVi;

ljaaRa»-jt«;3!li

SfiFp!

The New Church, Delft the large Dutch cathedrals. There is a hand- most elegantly built, and the most charming

some pulpit, dating from 1 756, but the chief and attractive of European residences, excel-

treasure is some magnificent ancient oak carving, ling by a happy combination of coquettish executed in 1538-1540 by Jean Terwen, of architecture and coquettish horticulture.

Amsterdam. These carvings adorn a superb No place in Holland is so full of historical set of choir stalls and are approached only by reminiscences. They are, in the main, associa- the screen in the church at . They are ted with the Royal Chapel, the Prisoner's well worth a visit, but the lover of the antique Tower, the Binnenhof and the Buitenhof will come away grieved. (Inner and Outer Court), where formerly resided the Counts of Holland and the Stad- houders of the Orange Line, and where, nowa- Charles of Sweden was financially exhausted days, are held the sittings of the States-General. by the expensive habits of Christina and the In the Buitenhof, a large open square, stands thirty years war, and looked about for a nation ancient gate tower (restored) leading into which he could despoil. Denmark, at that an the Plaats. It is the Gevangenpoort (prison time unsettled by internal dissension, was select- gate). Here, in 1671, Cornelius De Witt ed for the attack. If successful, Poland would was imprisoned, charged with conspiring be called upon to yield some territory and the against the Stadhouder, William III, and it was Baltic was to be a Swedish lake. John Casi- here when his brother John, the Grand Pen- mir II, of Poland, resented the arrogance of sionary, hastened to protect him, that the popu- his Swedish neighbor, and though threatened lace, whose minds had been poisoned, broke by Cossacks on the East and harassed by into prison, and dragging both the De Witts troubles within, he stubbornly resisted the pre- into the square, tore them to pieces. Such was tentious designs of Charles. the reward of another of Holland's sons, who Cromwell was expected to give aid to taught the Dutch how to fight the English Polcuid but held aloof because of promised had single-handed, and had startled London with commercial favors in the Baltic trade and Hol- the sound of his ship's guns in the Thames. land, weakened by wars with England, would, The old prison has its instruments of torture it was thought, refrain from aiding Denmark. belonging to that chapter in Holland's history, But the possible closing of the Baltic to Dutch not centuries old, trade gave Denmark an ally. The successes two the tortures in- of Charles, surpassed only by the achievements when its prisoners of Gustavus Adolphus, aroused such fears flicted on amongst the neutral powers that they insisted were "not surpassed at Venice," even in its upon a cessation of hostilities. This was con- worst time. summated in the treaty concluded at The Hague between England, France and Holland Outside the Binnen- on May 21, 1659, for mutual defense, to hof, the last building include the elector of Brandenburg's possessions standing alone by the on the Baltic and the protection of Dutch com- edge of the lake at the merce on that sea. comer, is the Maurits- The Hague, made a city by a decree of huis, the famous Hague Louis Bonaparte, had, at the time this treaty Picture Gallery (open was signed, a tovra hall nearly ready to cele- weekdays, 9-4, Sundays,

brate its centennial. Now the capital of Neth- 1-4, closed on certain erlands, this city was praised by Motley as the Church festivals), which national monument. The Hague

SEVENTEEN The "Voorstraatshaven", Dordrecht

ranks with that of Amsterdam as one of the of national independence in 1 81 3), and in the finest collections of the Dutch school. Its three charming "Scheveningsche Boschjes" (Scheve- hundred pictures include the prized "Bull" of ningen Woods), the marble benches to Cremer Paul Potter, which was judged as fourth among and Verheul. Precious are the incunabula in the stolen treasures at the Louvre carried off by the Koninklijke Bibliotheek (Royal Library), Napoleon, Rembrandt's well-known Anatomi- with a very artistic gable as also the medals and cal Lecture, painted in 1632, for the dissecting cameos in the collection of coins. In the Nieuwe room of the Amsterdam Guild of Surgeons. Kerk repose the earthly remains of Spinoza and Among the monu- the murdered brothers De Witt. Among the ments are two to the Royal Palaces are that in the Noordeinde, the founder of Dutch in- residence of the Queen, and the Huis ten Bosch «P^- % ,4i dependence. Prince (Palace in the Wood). The latter, situated i«SM# •^ .,^»4 Willem I, one to the on the outskirt of the delightful and extensive

chivalrous King Wil- Haagsche Bosch, is famed for the Orange Hall, lem II, and one to where Amalia van Solms, the Widow of Stad- Spinoza, the philoso- houder Frederik Hendrik, caused to be immor- pher, the National talized by the best masters of Rubens' school, Butchers' Hall, Haarlem MonUmCnt (restoration the warlike deeds of the Conqueror of Cities The Prison Gate, The Hague

in a series of paintings, partly symbolical and will take part in celebrating this festive occa-

partly historical, and also because the first sion by brushing up its wonderful Museum and

Peace Conference in Europe held its sittings exhibiting the works of some of the dozen or here. more of the illustrious artists who were bom During the summer of 1913, when delega- here. In that brilliant galaxy we find Jan tions from every part of the world will visit The Steen, Gerard Dou and Rembrandt. But while Hague to assist in dedicating the Temple of the casual visitor will be interested in viewing Peace, the many visitors will be entertained the pictures that may be brought together for by historic processions and international exhibi- this occasion the lovers of history will recall tions of agriculture, of aeronautics and of sport. the gallant defense which the Dutch patriots The neighboring University town, Leyden, made for 131 days against the besieging Span-

NINETEEN Old Scheveningen Road, The Hague iards. To relieve the surrounded city William the waters could reach even the first line of the Silent concocted the daring scheme to flood fortifications, and they pushed the siege with the intervening country by cutting the dykes in redoubled vigor. In the meantime, the people sixty places and opening the sluice gates at of Leyden began to feel the pressure of famine Gouda and Amsterdam so that his fleet might and sent letters to William, and laid before him sail to the rescue and carry provisions into the the sad condition of the city. The waters ad- city as soon as the great rise of the vsfater, com- vanced, the Spaniards began to abandon their ing w^ith the autumnal equinox should take lower fortifications, the inhabitants of Leyden place. The Spaniards, startled at the first news climbed the tower to watch the sea, now hop- of the inundation, w^ere reassured when they ing, now despairing, but they never ceased to understood the purpose of the Hollanders, work at the walls, to make sorties, and to resist deeming it certain that the city must fall before attacks. On the first of September the people

TWENTY

/L7 1 J

of Leyden, from the top of the Tower, saw appear upon the distant waters the foremost Dutch vessels. It was a fleet of Zeelanders

determined to save Leyden or die in its sur- rounding waters. At midnight, when the tem-

pest was at its height, in profound darkness, the Dutch fleet renewed the battle, the Zee- landers fought like demons while the flash of

the Spanish cannons lit up the terrible carnage. Fortress after fortress was attacked, vanquished and sacked, until all were silenced and the rescuing fleet entered the city. Here a horrible spectacle awaited them. A population of bony spectres, almost dead from

The Oldest of the University Buildings, Leyden

hunger, crowded the banks of the canals, stag- gering and falling, and stretching out their arms towards the ships. The sailors began to throw them bread and then ensued amongst those dy- ing men a desperate struggle, many were suffocated, others died in the act of eating,

others fell into the canals. The first rage of hunger satisfied, the most crying needs of the city provided for, citizens, sailors, women and children rushed into the cathedral where they sang in voices broken by sobs a hymn of thanks and praise. Original Home of the Pilgrim Fathers, Leyden To reward Leyden for her heroic defense.

. ,*»l*»T*?»1*S'.TiWa:»"a>«^t^¥r?^;j>'aiSWWSli»?»/-^;. twenty-one The Burg (Ancient Castle) at Leyden

William gave her people the choice between citizens for their rebellion against himself, the exemption from certain taxes or the found- "especially in consideration of the differences ing of a University. Leyden chose the Uni- of religion, and the great burdens and hardships versity and thousands throughout the civilized borne by the citizens of our city of Leyden vs^orld have profited by her choosing. during the war with such faithfulness." The charter of the University of Leyden was The Senate Chamber, in which hang the modeled after those of the older universities of portraits of the men, who, generation after gen- the Continent. Motley calls attention to the eration, have sustained and extended the repu-

"ponderous irony" in which it was conceived. tation of the University, was described by

Holland still recognized its allegiance to Spain, Niebuhr as "the most memorable room in the dream of an independent exercise of sov- Europe in the history of learning." The names ereignity, had never entered the thoughts of the of the most emment men whose portraits hang people. Hence it was necessary to throw the there show what a power Leyden has been in majesty of the royal name around the estab- the republic of letters. lishment of the young University. The charter It is pleasant to linger around the Town Hall, proceeds in Philip's name to authorize the but it must be left to its guardians, gaily painted founding of a University as a reward to the stone lions, who have done sentry duty for over

twenty-two ,

~m/iS-iigiJs:M iiiiiHO''

three hundred years, and in later days looked Denmark on the other. The last named coun- down on young Oliver Goldsmith dawdling try, though not directly involved in this war, here, on the boy, Philip Stanhope, receiving utilized the occasion to enter a partnership that and sometimes reading my Lord Chesterfield's might discourage Sweden from repeating the "Letters", on the studious Boswell, seeking attack of eight years before. In this compact

Johnson's kindly advice and counsel, on Eve- several colonies changed hands and it was lyn, deep in botany, and on other English lads, agreed that the merchandise coming down the since distinguished and dead, who attended Rhine might be imported into England in with more or less attention the lectures of Dutch vessels—a privilege that helped to de- Leyden's great professors. velop the commerce of Holland and enrich the Americans are doubly drawn to Leyden merchants of and Rotterdam. since this city, by formal action, welcomed the Breda is known to us as the place captured Puritans when they by the seventy men who secured entry into the

found it necessary to town by concealing themselves under a cargo leave their homes in of peat that was being taken in to supply the

Amsterdam, and on officers' quarters. In the scarcity of fuel it was a house opposite St. difficult for the boatmen, who knew of the plot, Peter's Church a to keep away insistent buyers until nightfall, tablet bears the tes- when the half suffocated men came from their timony to the fact hiding places, over-

that it was here that powered the watch- John Robinson lived, men at the gates and taught and died. let in the waiting soldiers to complete war, Louis The the conquest. XIV declared on

England in 1 666 In 1639 the Dutch

Gate, haahlem involved the neigh- destroyed the Span- boring countries and ish fleet in aiding threatened Spain's holdings in the Nether- Portugal's struggle lands. To pacify Holland and secure the aid for independence. In of her navy he made an alliance which threw the ten years' truce,

upon Holland the burden of the war on sea. agreed to in 1 64 1 Her fleet, at first unequal to England's, was the two nations were eventually aided by the pestilence, and the to assist each other Dutch vessels triumphantly entered the Thames against any common and terrified the Londoners as their guns sank foe, but the truce did the English ships at Sheerness. This bold move not cover the colonies and the infesting of the coasts by privateers belonging to the con- made England ready for peace, while the crafty tracting parties. The Louis, by throwing troops against the Spanish colonists of these Netherlands, caused Holland to doubt his countries were en- honesty and finally to listen to the peace pro- gaged in local con- posals. This was consummated by the treaties flicts with varying signed at Breda on July 31st, 1667, by Eng- success, but when land on one side and Holland, France and fortune seemed to weigh house, alkmaar

TWENTY-THREE w o I- t- A ^

favor the Portuguese, the Dutch, irritated by Portuguese ascendency, carried the war into

Portugal, and by 1 658 they had practically destroyed Lisbon's trade. t^ MM^.aa*. Through favorable alliances with England B- MBKwM 1 and France, Portugal became so powerful that L E. m ^^^"s^B^l ^i ' " Holland was ready, in August, 1 66 , to dis- - 1 IfflK' pi/ n-'f' '^'^^memMtti^^^ cuss a peace proposition. While the matter was pending, Holland made conquest of sev- ...|^.|.g \ ^^ffl

eral Portuguese colonies, so that the insistence T ISS^hShH l^ggBf^^^gB^.^L^B'iB for peace came from the other side, and in July 1669, a final treaty was signed at The ^Smm^w

Castle Brederode, Zandpoort, near Haarlem

Hague, by which Dutch conquests were to be retained and in return for Brazil, Portugal was to give salt to the value of one million Florins.

Louis XIV readily forgot his promises of 1667, and finding that Portugal was nursing a grievance, they formed an alliance and pre- pared to invade the Spanish Netherlands, not- withstanding the assurance he had given Hol-

land that he would first give notice before taking such a step. Louis justified this act by claiming this territory as a part of his wife's

dowry and issued to all the powers a manifesto to prove his claim. He occupied one town after another with but little opposition until he reached Ghent. The loss of territory fright- ened Spain into soliciting the aid of England and Holland, making to the latter most tempt- ing offers. The great De Witt, in his desire to be friendly to both parties, resorted to a compromise proposition and suggested that France be required to fix a boundary to her proposed conquests. This was too much for

the proud Louis. It was true that the little Republic had not only achieved her own in- dependence against the colossal power of Spain, that she had saved Denmark from the grasp of Sweden, and that she had fought a drawn The Ancient Church, Veere battle with England for the dominion of the

TWENTY-FOUR seas, but these were trivialities in comparison wives and children to distant lands, together

with • the proposition that the haughty and with their treasures, which others buried. proud France should be limited in her conquests. In this low ebb of their fortunes, the de- After various vain endeavors to make alli- jection of the Dutch prompted them to make ances, Louis, early in 1672, marched against the most submissive proposals, hoping thereby to

the United Netherlands. It was a veritable in- secure what remained to them. Louis declined vasion, like the eruption of the sea. Manufac- and demanded more. But more offensive than

tures and trade were suspended, all the shops his claim of land were the demands which, if were closed as well as the schools, universities granted, would injure their commerce, wound and courts of law; the churches alone remained their pride and shock their religious prejudices. open and hardly sufficed to contain the anxious He also stipulated that each year the Dutch throngs which crowded them. Many sent their were to present to Louis a gold medal bearing

View of Gronincen

R TWENTY-FIVE an inscription that they owed to him the try and ended in their execution on August preservation of that liberty which his predeces- 20th, 1672. sors had helped them to acquire. The war was desperately fought and in its The injustice and annoyance of these de- ramifications England, Sweden, Spain and Lux- mands inspired the Dutch to defend themselves embourg became involved. Finally convinced to the last extremity. They determined to that exhaustion alone would terminate the con- pierce the dykes and lay the country under flict in a bootyless victory, all parties seemed water and then betake themselves to the East ready to sign at Nymegen on August 10th,

Indies. The De Witts were held responsible 1 678, the document that brought peace. All that for this misfortune and the movement against Holland lost, besides blood and treasure, were them, starting in Veere, swept across the coun- her settlements in Senegal and Guiana. As

View of Arnhem

TWENTY-SIX for Louis, he reached the boundaries of his built and where Charlemagne erected an im- conquests and his sun moved rapidly away perial palace. Nymegen also boasts of the old-

from its zenith. est remnant of ecclesiastical architecture in the Nymegen, where this famous treaty of peace Netherlands—the sixteen-sided Gothic Chapel, was signed, will take her part in the peace rebuilt a number of times, after being consecra- festivities of 1913 by holding an exhibition of ted originally by Pope Leo III in 799. Roman antiquities in a building modeled after Nymegen naturally suggests its twin city, the "Casa Dipansa", of Pompei. This is Arnhem, the Arenacum of the Romans. Real- made specially appropriate since here can be izing the many beautiful trips that can be made seen a small fragment of the old palace church from this capital of Gelderland, the authorities built by Frederick Barbarossa, and the pic- have organized for the second half of August turesque Valkhof occupies one of the seven hills and September a number of excursions, and on which this Batavian Rome was originally those who utilize this opportunity will see

Market Place and Old Church, Arnhem

TWENTY-SEVEN where the retired Dutch merchants, who, hav- The ambitions of Louis were not satisfied ing amassed a fortune in the colonial trade, and with the peace of Nymegen nor did he regard the officer, after long service in the tropics, elect seriously the attempt to bound his activities, to spend their last days. In fact one would be and to his eyes his sun had not set. He became reconciled to approaching old age if a residence embroiled with Alsace and asserted his sov- on the Singel could be guaranteed or a home ereignity over certain Flemish cities. His pre- in any one of the beautiful environs. There tentions alarmed Europe and drew into an are here so many large trees, grass-covered alliance Sweden, Spain and the United Nether- slopes and suggestions of hills and valleys that lands, while his persecution of the Huguenots it is with difficulty that one realizes that this incurred the hostility of every Protestant coun- is a part of Holland. try in Europe. He alarmed the Catholic

View in the Kronenburc Park, Nymegen

TWENTY-EIGHT by his ambition and estranged the Pope by the con- tempt which he displayed for apostolic chair. William of ange, who nursed a persona, grievance against him by wresting the English sceptre from the hands of

h i s father-in-law, and, reigning in England, he would turn her forces against the French King. The Deer Park, The Hague When William, side and on November 1 st, 1 688, sailed with his fleet to signed between France on the one seize the crown of England, the Spanish Am- Holland, England and Spain on the other. bassador at The Hague caused a high mass to Thus there came to an end a war which had be performed for his success. By a strange lasted nine years. It drove the last of the coincidence just a century before, Spain had Stuarts from the throne of England, placed com- fitted out the Armada to wrest the English merce on a safe footing and made it possible for sceptre from the hands of a heretic and compel England to become a great colonial power.

the nation to accept the Papal authority. Now Rijswijk, the little village that furnished she was abetting the attempt of a Calvinist the stage for this mo- Prince to expel a Roman Catholic King. mentus act, will play

France, allied with England, seemed a for- its part in entertaining midable foe to be attacked by Holland single- the peace-loving visitors

handed, and it is not surprising that victory who will visit Holland usually perched upon their banners rather than in 1913 by exhibiting on the flag of Holland, but at enormous cost agricultural products of of blood and treasure, and "the people", as Westland, Pomona's Voltaire says, "were perishing to the sound pleasure ground. And of Te Deums". those who come by the Sweden, not forgetting the bonds of a peace- way of Leyden to see ful alliance, proposed that a truce be declared, this quaint town will and for the purpose of discussing the terms of follow the route taken peace, a conference was called to meet at by the Pilgrims on the Rijswijk on May 9th, 1697. On September first stage of their long 20th, of that year, three separate treaties were journey to America. veere TWENTY-NINE ^ The "Harincvliet", One of the Many Inner Harbors in Rotterdam

In the absence of heirs to Charles II, the In the midst of this bitter war, an alliance crown of Spain found three claimants: the was imminent between France and England,

Dauphin of France, son of the elder sister of which, if consummated, would jeopardize the Charles; the elector of Bavaria, grandson of safety of the other powers. This possibility his second sister; and Emperor Leopold, a de- and the doubtful issue of the many-sided con- scendant of Philip and Joana of Castile. Each flict hastened an agreement for a peace confer- of these enlisted their people in the war that ence which convened in Utrecht, January was waged over the Spanish Crown, and 29th, 1712. So many interests had to be con- through the interlocking alliances practically all sulted before final action would be taken that of Europe became involved in the controversy. it was not until April II th, 1713, that the t-i O /SA E OR PEACE

Bridge Across the Amstel, Amsterdam

treaties were ready for signing. France, on the City Hall houses an excellent archaeological one side, made treaties with England, Portugal, museum. Prussia, Savoy and Holland, and Spain with It is the "Trajectum ad Rhenum" of the England, Savoy, Holland and Portugal. All Romans, and ever since the last of the legion- these compacts together form the Peace of aries were recalled from the banks of the Old Utrecht and unitedly they brought to an end Rhine, which finds its way through the city to the war of the Spanish succession, the greatest the sea, it has been the scene of notable events. which had agitated Europe since the crusades. It was here that the first Christian Church was

Utrecht is an animated academic town full established by Dagobert, and it was here that of reminiscences of the one-time Episcopal gov- the Phantom Battle, so admirably described ernment. -The cathedral contains the grave of by Motley, was said to have been seen.

the last Archbishop, in the mint is a complete Utrecht was the headquarters of the Jansen- collection of Dutch coins and medals and the ists, the sect which, in the time of Pascal, gave

THIRTY-ONE L 3

OuDE Gracht, Utrecht

such trouble to their rivals, the Jesuits, the Bull ists to mass, its bells have summoned Protestants

Unigenitus notwithstanding—and in the little to their services. Often it has looked down suburb of Zeist the Moravian Brothers have a upon Oldenbameveld, as he came to rekindle home. Harvard, in speaking of the Utrecht the flaggmg ardor of his partisans, and not only

cathedral, says: "Of what strange, surprising, does it cast its shadow over the tomb of the terrible events has that tall, square giant been Princess Solms, the wife of the Stadhouder

witness?" It has seen Princes and Bishops, Frederik Hendrik, but at its feet, Louis XIV, Emperors and Kings, pass by its base. A hun- drunk with his greatness, in a day of madness, dred yards away a Pope was born, and yet it there caused the Calvinist Bible to be burnt.

has witnessed the destruction of the emblems of French bullets respected its arches, but in a the old faith. After having summoned Roman- night of tempest the nave was swept away. ^ THIRTY-TWO ..J

What a romance might be written with the

title,- "The Souvenirs of the Cathedral Tower."

Among its numerous objects of interest Utrecht has a canal, the Oude Gracht, that differs from all others seen m Holland. The water in this canal lies far below the level of the bordering streets and the "riser" of the giant step up to the street pavement was made up of foundation arches upon which were built the houses that fronted the thoroughfare along the canal. To utilize the spaces which would otherwise be wasted, the vaulted foundations served as cellars and later were transformed

Canal and Mills,

into shops and now and then a lace curtain and window plants give evidence of human habitation.

Utrecht, as a patron of art will, during the summer of 1913, hold an exhibition of early North-Netherland painting and sculp- ture, while Zalt-Bommel, nearby, will bring together a collection of old China to interest the visitor.

In 1716 the relations between Peter of Russia and England became strained because of the unwillingness of the latter to lend aid to Russia in the trouble she was water Gate, Sneek having with Sweden and Tur- key. Charles XII invaded Norway, and the Tsar and the King of Den- mark agreed to make a counter at- tack on Schonen, while Holland was expected to be ready with a help- ing fleet. But when Peter offered flimsy his un- harbobgate, hoorn St. Bavo Church and Coster Statue, Haarlem excuses for

THIRTY-THREE The "Rijksmuseum", Amsterdam

readiness to lead the combined fleet which he peace made on Dutch soil should be signed in had so industriously brought together, he was Amsterdam, for Amsterdam, "built on herring suspected of having designs on Copenhagen, bones" and founded on commerce, thrived by and when it was found that he was spending the practice of the arts of peace. It is a Mecca the winter in intriguing, so many doubts were towards which the traveler in Holland will raised that better counsels prevailed and a naturally turn, for he has heard much about treaty of peace was signed on August 4th, 1717, this Venice of the North resting serenely on at Amsterdam, by France, Russia and Prussia, her ninety islands. He has read about the in which it was stipulated that the Tsar and great Rijksmuseum with its wonderful paint- the King of Prussia would accept the media- ings of Rembrant, Dou, Steen, Ruysdael, Hals, tion of France to restore peace between them and scores of other artists who have made and Sweden. Dutch art famous. And returning friends have

It is not inappropriate that the last treaty of told him of the busy street and canal life, of

THIRTY-FOUR ;

the patient work of the diamond cutters, the Boskoop will exhibit, during the second half

unique Jew quarters, the clean streets and the of July, the roses for which it is so justly well-fed, contented people. He will want to famous; , the busy manufacturing see the many places named in history and place town of Overysel, will add a national festival his feet where illustrious men have trod and of song to the horticultural exhibition proposed

for a moment stand within the New Church Domburg, the Zeeland resort that is the unique where, since 1814, four Kings of Holland possessor of a magnificent forest and beautiful have taken the oath of the constitution. During beach, quite appropriately proposes a display of bathing requisites; Gouda, conscious of the

Street in Monnikendam Villagers of Monnikendam

the summer of 1913 Amsterdam will be espec- part she played in the relief of Leyden, will ially alluring for then there will be in this city show that her people can make other things an exhibition of architecture and the graphic as well as they make cheese; will arts, a naval exhibition, a centennial exhibit of make arrangements Woman's work—all of which will be fur- to enable those in- ther enlivened by illuminations, water car- terested to see some nivals and the dedication of a monument of the fine stock farm, commemorating the centenary of the restora- for which that sec- tion of independence, and the foundation of tion is noted; Sneek, the Kingdom of the Netherlands. mindful of the gal- The nearby seaside resort, Zandvoort, will lant mariners who profit by the influx of strangers, and in return have gone from her will seek to entertain them by a display of walls to add naval everything relating to the welfare and comfort glory and commer- of the child. cial wealth to Hol- The smaller cities of Holland, although they land, will have an furnished no stage setting for the closing act exhibition of sailing, of the great tragedy of war, are anxious to do sport and fishing. their part in making memorable the great peace Zwolle will bid the event of 1913. visitor to come to see Saw mill, south Holland

', 'tfftf^kjgitf ;;• tir ';rrfit^< v/-" 1.^ v/i:,^:. .a r.i^'- THIRTY-FIVE Botanical Gardens,

her old Sassen-Poort, or Saxon gateway, and knows that Coster, a former dweller in that look upon samples of local skill and in- city, was the inventor of printing from movable dustry. Haarlem hardly needs any special type. s'Hertogenbosch and Maastricht will attractions, for every one will want to see place emphasis upon the need to satisfy intel- the acres of tulips and hyacinths planted so lectual appetites and will give, during the sum- closely together that they seem to be huge car- mer, at frequent intervals, historical processions, pets, with the brightest colors in their designs, and classic plays. Middelburg, with the gar- laid by mother earth for her own housekeeping, rulous chimes of the Nieuwe Kerk, will want but Haarlem is proud of her art treasures, and to show the stranger that here the great naval these will be increased by loans of paintings hero, De Ruyter, was born, as well as Jansen, and a display of Costeriana—for the Haarlemer the inventor of the telescope and the microscope.

THIRTY-SIX and Jacob Cats, the humorist-poet-philosopher, Hague August 30th, 1673, between England and at the same time afford an opportunity to and Holland at The Hague, January 10th, see the varied and beautiful costumes of the 1678, and between Great Britain and Prussia island of Walcheren. at Loo, January 13th, 1788; and on April Leeuwarden will hope the visitor will want 9th, 1609, at Bergen-op-Zoom, a truce of to see the Olde Hove, the unfinished tower twelve years was agreed to by Spain and the that, in its disregard for the perpendicular States General of Holland. Holland has provoked no war with the hope of gain and waged no battle with spoils in view. Ultimate peace and security have been the ends in mind and her forces have been found, in the main, on the defensive side. Her war with the sea has had for its purpose resistance to the sea's encroachment, and she fought Spain for personal and religious liberty. Liberty was to the Dutch not limited to their personal enjoyment, but, so

far as their influence and power could go, it was employed in seeking liberty for others. Thus the Jews, who were despised because they were thrifty, plundered because they were rich, and harassed because they clung tenacious-

Quaint Marken

emulates the tower of Pisa. But the stranger can also find here a wonderful museum contain- ing a large collection of Frisian antiquities and an unsurpassed porcelain exhibit. Even the smaller towns of Muiden, Tilburg, Amersfoort, Coevorden, Gooi, Kerkrade, Valkenburg and Velsen are energetically making preparations to entertain the visitors who may come within their gates, while Rotterdam, always a living exhibit of commerce and industry, will be equipped with special facilities for seeing her docks, basins and harbor facilities. In addition to the peace treaties terminating wars which have been signed in Holland, many A Marken Interior treaties of alliance to prevent bloodshed have been contracted upon Dutch soil. Among ly to their ancient faith and customs, found an these may be mentioned the alliance between asylum in Holland. The Jansenists, expelled Spain and France, made at Nymegen, Sep- from France, found a refuge in Utrecht and a

tember 1 7th, 1617, between Portugal and recognition when recognition was a dangerous

Holland at The Hague in July, 1 669, between offense. And the Puritans, driven from Eng- Spain, Holland and Brandenburg at The land for conscience sake, were welcomed in

THIRTY-SEVEN Amsterdam and helped to become owners of whose business interests encircled the globe, homes in Leyden. whose heart beats in sympathy with the throb

It is, therefore, most appropriate that Peace of every aching human heart, and whose bene- Congresses should convene in Holland and that factions know neither geographic boundaries a Court of Arbitration should find a home with- nor racial limitations, should donate the means in her territory. And the climax of the fitness for the erection of a temple of Peace m of things is found in the fact that Mr. Carnegie, Holland, the Home of Peace.

The Peace Palace at The Hague, Holland

THIRTY-EIGHT )

^./follanc/ lie/comes the yVorM

in 1913

fy^esteoa/s and ^xhiBitions in

Uhirtu kOuteri (cities

( Unoustri^ — «/7/'/ — -^gricultupe in (commemoration of the i^entenarij of the tj^ounoation of the tJy^ingoom of the

•^\ etherlands ana the kOedication

of the J. eace J. alace

cfull particulars ivlll l>e furnis/ietJ. upon

application to the Official Unformation Office, U5 L. VoorAout, ^he -^ague

THIRTY-NINE : ; "

-mamsj:::. ;

24,170 Tons Register TWIN-SCREW STEAMSHIP "ROTTERDAM' Displacement 37,190 Tons

Direct and Most Convenient Route for Travellers from the United States to Holland

the quaint old land, the scene of many unique festivities in 1913 to commemorate the centenary of the foundation of the Kingdom of the Netherlands and the dedication of the Peace Palace. Proceeding from Holland, the capitals and places of interest of several European countries are within easy reach, and excellent through-train connection may be made at Rotterdam, and other points. THE FLEET TWIN-SCREW STEAMSHIP "ROTTERDAM" TWIN-SCREW STEAMSHIP "NOORDAM Registered Tonnage 24.170 Displacement 37.190 Tons Registered Tonnage 12,531 Displacement 22,070 Tons

TWIN-SCREW STEAMSHIP "NEW AMSTERDAM" TWIN-SCREW STEAMSHIP "RYNDAM ' Registered Tonnage 17,250; Displacement 31,000 Tons Registered Tonnage 12,537 32,070 ; Displacement Tons

TWIN-SCREW STEAMSHIP "POTSDAM," Registered Tonnage 13,606 ; Displacement 39,070 Tons

THE NEW TRIPLE-SCREW TURBINE STEAMSHIP "STATENDAM"!of 32,500 Tons Register, 45.000 Tons Displacement is now building

All steamers are of enormous tonnage, as may be judged from the above figures; they are splendidly equipped for the safety and comfort of passengers and are provided with the latest improvements, having bilge-keels, superb decks, halls, saloons and large staterooms, Marconi wireless telegraph, submarine signal receiving apparatus, etc.

For full information, sailings and rates, communication is invited with the following General Passenger Agencies of the Holland- America Line 39 Broadway, NEW YORK, N. Y. J« 145 N.Dearborn Street, CHICAGO, ILL. a* 84 State Street, BOSTON, MASS. 319 Geary Street, SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. ^ 219 St. Charles Street, NEW ORLEANS, LA. ^ Cor. 9th and locust Streets, ST. LOUIS, MO. ^ 121 So. Third Street, MINNEAPOLIS, MINN. Jt 278 Apartado, HAVANA, CUBA 40 Toronto Street, TORONTO, CAN. Jt 286 St. James Street, MONTREAL, CAN. ,^ or wiih its local Agents

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