A Day in the Life of a Kyiv

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Issue №26 15 October – 15 November 2019

BALI CANCUN Contents | Issue 26 15 October – 15 November 2019

Issue №26 15 October – 15 November 2019

A day in the life of a Kyiv BALLERINA Ukraine: Decommunised | Keep your spirits up this autumn with the WO activity list | Don’t let those tummies rumble – take in the new surroundings at Kyiv Food Market A Kyiv ballerina talks about life on On the Cover the stage and in Behind the scenes with a local the studio ballerina Photos: Evgheniy Yablonskiy 4 WO Words from the Editor the spookiest day of the year – Staying sane, and not only Halloween (p 17)

6 What’s New 22 What’s Ahead We’ve got legends and A few top events to put in your athletes taking up space in the calendar international press, along with a Illya’s pick this month few political points from an MP 24 What’s All the Fuss of the leading local faction, and A collection of bits and bobs Decommunisation is not only a the president gets an award for for those on the run. Not to the longest press conference of be missed: an award-winning big word but a large and complex any sitting president software app that allows you concept. The process, however, is to take in historic points of 8 A Royal Affair interest; a review of this year’s simple: The Caribbean Club find space in Oscar entry which recently Step 1. Throw a chain around Lenin their busy line-up for yet another premiered at the Cannes film fantastic performance. For over fest; how to write a book in Step 2. Pull. Let rest for 15 minutes 21s only, we get an exclusive just a month; and lots more and decommunisation is activated. with the choreographer and besides photographer about why this is a There’s more to it than that, of must-see 28 What’s On the Menu Fujiwara Yoshi is an extreme course. To find out, turn to page 12 10 Behind the Scenes sort of dining experience. Turn The National Opera Theatre’s to page 28 to find out why. Elena Gorshunova takes us On the other hand, you’ll find Roman’s pick this month into the studio and behind the everything your tastebuds Elena Gorshunova is a unique scenes of a day in the life of a could want at the new Kyiv real ballerina Food Market at Arsenalna artist on the rise, with a life that is fast-paced and full of beauty. 12 Deconstructing 30 What’s in Focus Communism The networking teams are People would say she has a dream Ukraine has enjoyed back in action; a new hotel job, yet her beauty radiates from independence for little more re-opens; gastro-lovers than 28 years. Despite this, are spoiled with seafood; the out. Gorshunova’s perspective Sovier authoritarianism has Lions roar for charity; and a attempted to maintain its grip. fabulous summit welcomes at this point in her career can offer Illya Ovchar looks at some of entrepreneurs across the inspiration to all. the reasons why country – not a bad month

14 What’s On this Month 34 Where to Find What’s On All you need to know, broken An extensive (though not down by category, about what complete!) list of where to you need to see and do in Kyiv find your favourite English- for the next 30 days, including language culture and a fun list of where to celebrate entertainment magazine

The Team: Contact details: Registration information: © All materials published in What’s On Kyiv Originally founded in 1999, What’s On Kyiv business community, both expatriate and Lana Nicole Niland Yana Andyol For general enquiries, submissions, What’s On Kyiv magazine is registered with are the unconditional intellectual property is an English language monthly magazine local, and provides brief news articles on Paul Niland Marianne Haryazha complaints, or comments write to the Ministry of Justice of Ukraine as a print of Outpost Publishing and as such are with a goal to inform residents and visitors events of relevance to Kyiv and Ukraine and Jared Morgan Roman Mykyta [email protected] media magazine, License Number 22834 protected by Ukrainian and international to Kyiv of events in the entertainment and the wider region. Lee Reaney Daria Isaeva To advertise in What’s On Kyiv, contact – 12734P dated 7 August 2107. This mag- copyright laws. No materials from this cultural life of the city. As well as providing Alina Smolina Illya Ovchar [email protected] azine is published by Outpost Publishing, a magazine, or the associated website, advice, guidance, and listings of live mu- Natalia Kurtyak Claire Little company duly incorporated in Ukraine. may be reproduced without the express sic, theatre, nightlife, sporting events and Tyoma Myronenko Igor Hodakov permission of Outpost Publishing. more, What’s On also interacts with the Anna Romanchuk DoubleK LLC Team Lera Zdanovych Printsolution LLC Tassy Klim 3 From the Editor

Editor-in-Chief Lana Nicole Niland

October sees my return to the Ukrainian capital, where life is, as ever, feverish. As I write, however, I am perched in a quiet apartment, the sometimes negligent sun streaming in, putting together the last of this issue. While I thoroughly love this magazine and nearly all of the respon- sibilities that come along with it, it would be a slight fabrication to say that it doesn’t come without its challenges. Publishing generally is a fast-paced profession which, at times, ensures a high dose of cortisol around the time of print (and often not only). As a result, a good stiff drink at the end of the day is not uncommon. Despite this and the general din of all of my days, or rather because of it, World Mental Health Day (having just come and gone) was a good reminder that the other side of the pendulum is equally, if not more, important. Silence, rest, repose – words I use more often in a punchline than put to good use – are extremely necessary to balance out the chaos. Of course, that’s not always easy when dealing with an 80+ hour work week and jobs in multiple time zones. It is something I need to start employing more often, however, lest the mental health professionals come knocking at my door. Though mental health has often been seen as a subject best not talked about, that philosophy is changing the world over. Even Ukraine, a country where mental health has long been stigmatised, will soon have easy access to help. At about the same time this month’s issue hits news stands, a fabulous new local project launch- “Silence, rest, repose – es across the country – Lifeline Ukraine. Operating as a hotline, available 24 hours a day, it offers an amazing resource for Ukraini- words I use more often in a an veterans suffering from PTSD and other psychological traumas and depression initially, and eventually branching out to provide as- punchline than put to good sistance to anyone with mental health issues. (Lifeline Ukraine will feature in the November issue – no spoiler alerts, you’ll have to find use” the magazine). Not only is this project the first of its kind, which, in a country currently at war, is shocking, it is something that looks to completely change the mindset of local residents where mental health issues are concerned. For the rest of us, those who might lose it every once in awhile on a nagging spouse, kick the cat in frustration, or let loose on the next door neighbour because they just can’t keep their kids quiet (these situations are pure conjecture; any resemblance to actual events is purely coincidental), we’ve put together a great little round up of ways to release this autumn (turn to page 26). While I work at my own attempts to find that ever elusive equilibrium, you’ll let me know which ones work best for you.

4 What’s On Issue 26 15 October - 15 November 2019 Variety Show “ROYAL” (Grand Piano) is an exquisite, revealing performance for adults. Strictly 21+! So much more than a dinner show, ROYAL is a new cultural trend in Kyiv. Spectators have never before been presented the Kyiv version of an iconic Parisian cabaret. And it is all about to change now! Chic - Style - Colorful costumes - Extraordinary Decor - Lusty Production. ROYAL is a show like no other, and the one you will come back to enjoy again and again...

Caribbean Club Symona Petliury 4, Kyiv www.caribbean.com.ua What’s New

Servant of the Press! President Zelenskyy has been accused of dodging the press since he took office, and so he decided to address this criticism recently with (as it turned out) the longest press conference from any President in SERVANT OF THE PEOPLE history. The gaggle convened at a shiny DEPUTY MAKSIM TKACHENKO new location, the Kyiv Food Market at CUTS TO THE CHASE ABOUT Arsenalna which is, by all accounts, pret- THE CURRENT SITUATION IN ty good. The event saw as many as 300 UKRAINE’S DONBAS journalists gathered to sit around a table in groups with the President, asking (and him answering) over 500 questions. While the marathon may have addressed the Servant of the People Talks Straight criticisms of openness, some of the an- swers he offered invited more questions. We want an end to the war and the return to Ukrainian political candidates and ac- First off, there was a non-answer about of all Ukrainian territories. For this to hap- cess to Ukrainian mass media; where inter- the ongoing and never-ending desire of pen, only one platform exists: a serious and national observers are welcome and every oligarch Ihor Kolomoisky to get “his” in-depth discussion in the Normandy for- eligible voter, including internally displaced bank (Privat) back. On this the only ac- mat. persons, is allowed the right to vote. ceptable answer from the President, Our position on this matter is clear and What we see from the side of our interna- known for his ties to that same oligarch, transparent, and in line with the wishes of tional partners is that support for Ukraine is should have been, “No, the former own- the majority of Ukrainians: first and fore- on the rise. The international community ers will not regain control over this bank.” most, Donbas is Ukraine. Most important- supports a course of action that sees a dip- Instead, he demurred and offered noth- ly, peace must come to this territory. lomatic solution to the conflict. This sup- ing concrete, saying only that he will “de- port comes from France, Germany, and the fend the nation’s interests” whatever that What does this mean? European Union, and that support is at the means in this case. There must be an immediate and highest level, including officials and leaders complete ceasefire and the withdraw- of these states. These friends of Ukraine al of all foreign military formations is recognise the need for new negotiations in non-negotiable. the Normandy format, and regret that they Along the internationally recognised have not commenced much sooner. Ukrainian-Russian border, Ukrainian bor- In my opinion, the previous government der guards need to be positioned on the implemented an incomprehensible ap- Ukrainian side. proach, disagreeing with partners’ propos- An exchange of all prisoners must take als (the Steinmeier formula, for example), place; all Ukrainian citizens must be al- and they were unable to come up with their lowed to return home. own solutions towards returning peace to

Elections must not be held at gunpoint. the Donbas. The result is that Vladimir This is a major concern, because a re- Elections must be held according to Putin has continued to avoid top-level versal of the (very valid) nationalisation Ukrainian law, where citizens have access negotiations following the Second Minsk of this bank will create a knock-on effect Agreement (in February of 2015), and in- for everyone in the country, including a stead has continued military operations potential suspension of cooperation with Maksim Tkachenko under the false pretence that Russia is “not the IMF, and that will have an effect on Maksim Tkachenko is a public and cul- there”. As a result, specifically since the the currency. Another disturbing moment tural figure, and Member of Parliament second Minsk Agreement was signed, some was when the President singled out a main the party Servant of the People since 8 000 Ukrainians have been killed. jor media outlet for criticism, in a moment 21 July 2019. He is the First Deputy What we see now is that while our interna- that smacked of authoritarianism. Taking Chairman of the Committee on Human tional partners support the independence, a pop at the very well-respected Novoye Rights, Decoccupation and Reintegra- sovereignty, and territorial integrity of Vremya group, Zelenskyy noted their tion of the Temporarily Occupied Terri- Ukraine, the peace process is deadlocked. main shareholder as not Ukrainian. As if tories in Donetsk, Luhansk, and the Au- What we hope this means that they, our that matters a jot. tonomous Republic of Crimea, the City international partners, have not forgiven As the press conference reached its ninth of Sevastopol, Na- Russia for the continued violence they have hour, a showman’s trick unfolded. All of a tional Minorities inflicted on Ukraine, and that the situations sudden an “expert” made himself known and Interethnic with both Donbas and Crimea have not to the gathering and announced that this Relations, and been forgotten. In terms of action needed was now, officially, the longest press con- internally dis- now, the hope is that fresh talks in Paris, ference by any president in history; a re- placed persons, though tough, will bear fruit. cord previously held by Belarus strongman and is on the The road to peace will not be fast. It will Alexander Lukashenko (8 hours, for the subcommittee be long and complicated. But we have to “record”). The “expert” then proceeded for the tempo- walk it together. Just like the air we breathe, to present the new recordholder with a rarily occupied peace and unity are necessary to all of us. certificate that he happened to have on his territories of Pragmatically, as never before, this situa- person “just in case” such a thing came to Ukraine. tion requires restraint and prudence, where pass. Obviously pre-arranged, and a bit the temptation to get dragged into provo- crass, but what can we expect from the co- cations and manipulations must be resisted. median-turned-head of state?

6 What’s On Issue 26 15 October - 15 November 2019 Ukrainian High Jumper Sets New World Record It was a world record performance for up-and-coming high jumper Yarosla- va Mahuchikh at the World Athletic Championships in Doha, Qatar last month. Machuchikh – who just turned 18 in September – set the world junior (under-20) record in the women’s high jump with a leap of 2.04 metres, good Ticket [R]evolution! enough for silver. At The 2018 Youth Change is afoot at KyivPasTrans, Kyiv’s Olympic Games champion she was one passenger transport agency. Why? Be- of only two jumpers to clear 2.02m at cause the system isn’t terribly user-friend- the competition, but the gold went to Championships. Maryna Bekh-Ro- ly, and on the bus or tram it can be tricky Russian legend Mariya Lasitskene, who manchuk, the 2019 Universiade cham- to find a conductor, with tickets often be- needed fewer jumps to clear the height. pion in long jump, captured silver in ing sold by multi-tasking drivers. Howev- It was a coming-out party for Mahu- Doha will a leap of 6.92 metres. Mahu- er, it’s about to get a whole lot simpler! So chikh, who bested 21-year-old team- chikh, Levchenko, and Bekh-Roman- how will we be paying for our transport, mate and 2017 world silver medalist chuk will each be favourites to repeat you ask, and where? And what’s going to Yuliya Levchenko to take home one of as medalists at next summer’s Olympic happen to those friendly conductors? two medals for Ukraine at the World Games in Tokyo, Japan.

NO MORE TICKETS Plastic metro tokens are already being phased out (they can still be used until 30 Oc- PrivatBank tober). However, from 1 November, the cur- (again…) rent paper bus and tram tickets will become Here’s an interesting thing. PrivatBank a thing of the past. Paper tickets aren’t going recently announced their financial per- to disappear completely, though, they’re just formance for the first nine months of getting an upgrade with a QR code. 2019, and in that period the nation’s If you were worried about those poor con- largest bank (fully in state hands since ductors losing their job, don’t be: they’re December 2016) raked in a profit of not disappearing, just changing their role $1.1 billion. Compare that to the finan- slightly. From now on they’ll be more like cial performance of this entity at the controllers, checking your tickets and cards end of the period when it was owned by with a handheld device. To pay for the Kolomoisky and his fellow oligarch Ihor ride, you’ll just need to get your e-ticket or Bogolubov, when the same bank was left Kyiv Smart Card validated. with a $5.5 billion hole in its balance WAIT, ANOTHER CARD? sheet. Bravo to the new management. Another reason why the former owners Ukrainian Sand Artist Yep. The e-card is being superseded want it back: 1.1 billion, to be precise. by the Kyiv Smart Card, which covers We can think of 5.5 billion reasons in a League all public transport (sorry, marshrutkas however why they shouldn’t. NOT included). The elderly and people of Her Own with disabilities will still get free rides. If Ukrainian sand artist Kseniya Semino- you’ve just topped up your e-card, don’t va continues to wow the world with her worry, you can still transfer your rides at incredible artistic talent. Performing on several major metro stations. More good Britain’s Got Talent: The Champions news: if you happen to lose your Kyiv series this month, the Merited Artist of Smart Card, you can block it in the app Ukraine moved the audience to tears or by phone and then transfer all the un- with a beautiful show dedicated to the used rides to a new card. And, the “buy late Princess Diana. Her performance more – pay less” rule is still active, allow- was good enough to take 3rd place in the ing you to save up to 1.50 UAH per trip. competition amongst former champions and top acts from many of the world’s COMFORT OVER CHAOS Got Talent competitions. We can only hope that the change will After winning the first season of Ukraine’s happen smoothly and quickly, without too version of the show (Ukrayina Maye Ta- many queues at stations. Let’s hope that lant) in 2009, the incredible Seminova the app, validators, and QR codes all work was invited to participate in America’s properly, and that the convenience of the Got Talent: The Champions series which new system will justify any short-term con- aired earlier this year. She also finished fusion. Fingers crossed! third in that competition. Seminova earned the unique distinction of being Got questions? Check out the only act to ever receive a ‘golden my.kyivcity.gov.ua or down- buzzer’ to automatically qualify for the load the KyivSmartCity app finals in both Champions’ competitions.

7 A Royal

Illya Ovchar Affair SOMETHING FRESH IS COMING TO THE CARIBBEAN CLUB. IT’S A BRAND-NEW BEHIND THE LENS WITH VARIETY SHOW FOR THOSE RUSLAN LOBANOV 21+ ONLY, AND IT’S LIKE NOTHING YOU’VE SEEN IN The lady at the piano defiantly KYIV BEFORE dominates the photograph. How- ever other groups of people play important roles too. What did you What’s On scored an exclusive interview want to reveal about the show with with choreographer Katya Trishina and this image? photographer Ruslan Lobanov for the The lady on the piano is certainly the hottest new ticket at Caribbean Club central character in the photo and is ob- – Royal. Think James Bond at Moulin viously the most prominent. But here I Rouge… applied the rule: “the Oscar goes tp the supporting actor”. This is when the main ON THE DANCE FLOOR WITH characters are just as important as those CHOREOGRAPHER KATYA TRISHINA supporting. Dedicating equal amounts of A variety show is entertain- attention to everyone in the photo, the ment made up of a variety of The style of this performance is story being told is that of a classic club: acts, especially musical per- very different to what we normally some are amused by the woman on show, formances and sketch comedy, see here in Kyiv, what are some of some are enjoying the music, some – and normally introduced by a the show’s unique elements? the drinks. compère or host. Other types In Europe, the variety style is well-known, of acts include magic, animal but it is quite the opposite in Ukraine. We Can you describe the mood of the and circus acts, acrobatics, jug- want to show people the beauty of this genre, photos? gling and ventriloquism. They make them appreciate it. Not only does the One of my favourite techniques in pho- first started appearing in the audience get a world-class show, but they get tography is “a minute before, and a min- UK and the US in the early the opportunity to dine on a first-class meal ute after”. I used something similar here. 1900s. as they watch. There’s anticipation, a foreshadowing. Ukrainian women are known to be among the most beautiful in the world; we want to What were some artistic challeng- demonstrate that they are talented as well. es you had in getting that message We have selected the best of the best for the across? show, be it dancers, singers, actors, or the Though this is not terribly different from maestro pianist. A white grand piano takes my usual style, I did have some challeng- centre stage, plays a very important role in es. You see, for the background roles I the show. We’ve also included a very char- usually use people I know well: it’s much ismatic and funny actor. The cherry on top easier to work with someone you know. is the erotic 21+ show. It will really change Here, I couldn’t do that. The people in your mind about cabaret! It’s news to no the background are friends of the club, one that people make love all the time. But musicians, people I didn’t know at all. with the websites available these days, seeing On the one side I couldn’t really have this a naked body is not as exciting as it used to connection in the shoot. On the other be. We have found that when you play with hand, these people knew what they were fantasy, you can come up with some pretty doing, and I personally find it great when amazing stories. people are being themselves.

What should the audience expect from the show? PREMIERE! Be assured that you will experience Royal breathtaking dancers, funny actors, ex- 25 October at 19.30 travagant costumes, live music, and Caribbean Club (Symona Petlyury 4) everything in between! We promise you 390 – 1 490 UAH will leave satisfied! caribbean.com.ua

8 What’s On Issue 26 15 October - 15 November 2019 — RE-BIRTH OF A KYIV LEGEND

. PREPARE TO BE AMAZED — WELCOME

. TO NEW BLU

radissonblu.com/hotel-kiev

Untitled-3549 1 11-09-2019 10:35:39 child,” Gorshunova shares. “Of course, all little girls love to dance. My older cous- in was in choreography school and I came to watch her train. Later, I went into her room and put on her clothes and pointe shoes and declared ‘I’m a ballerina!’ At Behind just four-and-a-half, I began training. When I was six, I entered the Kachenka the Scenes Academy of Ballet in Kyiv.” Roman Mykyta At nine she enrolled in the choreography school full-time, setting her on the path to becoming a ballerina. Gorshunova FREDERICK ASHTON remembers her life as a student “was a OFTEN SAID, dream. There were many opportunities “DANCERS ARE THE to perform on stage and interact with life HARDEST WORKERS”, in the theatre. I loved watching ballerina SOMETHING THAT Elena Filipyeva and learned by her ex- CERTAINLY APPLIES ample. We had excellent teachers, who TO KYIV’S OWN ELENA taught us the most basic movements with GORSHUNOVA careful attention, enabling us to become dancers.” After completing eight years at school, she graduated and began working in St Petersburg upon invitation from the world-renowned Modern Dance Ballet of Boris Eifman.

A CAREER IS BORN Beginning her career at this theatre offered opportunities that were prestigious and artistically stimulating. In Russia, Eif- man’s theatre is highly regarded, with Eif- man himself coming up with daring artistic ideas. Gorshunova says, “I was very excited to begin my career in the theatre. Eifman built an ensemble of serious artists who come from all over the world.” While St Petersburg is a beautiful city, Gorshunova’s heart brought her back to Kyiv for artistic and personal reasons. Last month, the cover of What’s On fea- She remembers, “I missed classical bal- tured a Wonder Woman at Comic Con let and its repertoire, but also Kyiv is my Ukraine. But after meeting with Elena hometown; I love it very much. Still, I am Gorshunova, a ballerina with the National quite pleased whenever I have the oppor- Opera and Ballet Theatre here in Kyiv, it tunity to do modern dance.” would seem that being a superhero is just Returning to her home theatre, artistic di- another day in the life for Gorshunova. rector Aniko Yurivna Rekhviashvili con- siders Gorshunova to be one of her most BACK TO REALITY “up-and coming and promising balleri- For Gorshunova, a typical Tuesday starts nas”. She dances in every performance early: teaching a ballet class at the Kyiv but her featured roles currently include National University of Culture and Art, Mercedes in Don Quixote, Odalisque in where she is also working on her disserta- Scheherazade, and the Countess in the bal- tion as a graduate student. After teaching let version of The Marriage of Figaro. To see her class, she travels to the theatre for a Gorshunova perform is a treat. She com- company class, followed by rehearsal. mits to every role she dances. The ballet theatre performs three to five times a week; some nights she will dance COMMITMENT in a performance that starts at 19.00 This is the true measure of an artist. which could last three hours. The ballet While the principals drive the story and troupe cycles through its entire repertoire garner applause, the supporting artists of 41 ballets approximately every two are also responsible for the narrative months, which means each performance and giving a scene atmosphere. While features a different role. some artists might not invest in this work, A ballerina typically begins training at a Gorshunova is an artist who always gives very young age. “I started dancing as a her best performance. She humbly adds:

10 What’s On Issue 26 15 October - 15 November 2019 nova tells it, “working together, we have They are coached by Iryna Brodska and “Of course, all little a real connection. Also, we are both de- Mykola Mikheiev she says, “who give us buting in Scheherazade so our partnership everything we need like they are prepar- girls love to dance” for this performance is special and pure, ing ingredients for a main dish”. Gorshu- unaffected by previous experiences.” nova appreciates having the male and fe- Elena Gorshunova male perspective from the coaches. In Kharkiv, where Scheherazade will be premiered, Gorshunova says, “I was born on the day of this city, maybe it was destiny.” Kyiv will have the pleasure next month, “Every role is a chance to be successful. when they debut in the Opera Theatre. Also, if you handle the responsibility well, the artistic staff will give you more.” She agrees that a ballerina who has risen up through the ranks better understands the theatre. Currently, the theatre is un- Come to the dergoing a renaissance, with new pieces in the works. On working with Rekhviash- theatre and see vili, Gorshunova says, “It is very pleasant Elena Gorshunova because she has a clear artistic vision and she works efficiently. She emphasises the in action: artistry to create not just beautiful ballets but dramatic and psychological situations. For a group of artists, it is an honour that she created a ballet for us because she knows us so intimately.”

LEADING LADY Gorshunova is preparing to premiere in her first principal role as Zobeide in Sche- herazade. Originally choreographed by Michel Fokine and performed in 1910 by Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes in Paris, the ballet utilises Fokine’s progressive princi- ples of choreography to make for a co- hesive and dramatic production. An Ara- bian fantasy about forbidden love, Fokine sympathises with the principal characters, making the audience invest in their story. Gorshunova describes Scheherazade as “physicality and emotion which create the atmosphere of a romance”. Playing opposite her is Oleksiy Tyutyun- nik, who has also returned to his home theatre from St Petersburg. The ballet rests on their chemistry and as Gorshu-

Scheherazade 13 November at 19.00 National Opera Theatre (Volodymyrska 50) 50 UAH opera.com.ua

11 Deconstructing Communism

Illya Ovchar

UKRAINE WAS PART OF THE SOVIET UNION FOR 72 YEARS. THIS ERA HAD BOTH BENEFITS which directly concerned themselves with government. Then Prime Minister Mykola AND DRAWBACKS, ARGUABLY studying Lenin, communist ideology, and Azarov labelled the act vandalism and Pet- MORE OF THE LATTER. NO the history of the communist party flew out ro Symonenko, leader of the supposedly MATTER WHICH SIDE OF THE the window. Alongside that, a gigantic mon- banned Communist party, was vocal in his FENCE YOUR OPINION LIES ument of the October revolution – a prime criticism. IT WAS A COUNTRY, A VERY example of visual pollution – was removed. Leninopad (a play on words from Ukrainian STRONG ONE, AND THAT LEFT A In fact, it was one of the first casualties. Sadly, пад – pad, which means something falling) LEGACY at that time, there weren’t many strict laws on was happening at the will of the people so no decommunisation and so much of the past one gave two damns about the government, was to stay. Until... regardless of whether it was legitimate. The police didn’t exactly oppose it either. One of The Soviet Union had its symbols, history, CH-CH-CHANGES the reports said: “Because the monument and most importantly, heroes. And just like in …then-president Viktor Yushchenko in has the value of 0 UAH and represents no any authoritarian state, great effort was made 2009 set out stricter rules on what was to cultural heritage, its vandalism is fully legal to remember them. This has left a legacy, go. Some people were so excited to enforce and can’t be prosecuted.” strong, noticeable, and very Soviet. these rules that they “brutally and ruthless- Obviously, there was more to this than just ly vandalised” the now non-existent Lenin Leninopad. The movement represented OUT WITH THE OLD monument in the centre of Kyiv. The great a whole legal process with major implications, such as the city of Dnipropetrovsk The concept of getting rid of items which leader, a reminder of communism in granite, and Kirovohrad being renamed Dnipro and are reminders of the past isn’t new. A great lost some of his nose and arm in the fracas. Kropyvnytskyi, respectively. The first change example is the Taras Shevchenko monu- He would be toppled completely five years was due to Grigory Petrovsky being impli- ment opposite the red Shevchenko Univer- later. Fast forward. cated in the 1933 famine and the second sity. At one time, instead of the esteemed It’s 8 December and the Euromaidan revo- because Sergei Kirov’s murder sparked the poet, it was Tsar Nicholas I who occupied lution is gaining momentum. There’s a news red terror. the plinth. Then, the Bolsheviks came along alert: “Masked protesters are planning to and de-tsarised the square. bring the Lenin monument down.” Cue the Let’s traverse a historical movement which 200 or so masked activists at the monument THE DISPUTE OF DECOMMUNISATION started in 1991, halted in 2010, and gained who attach cables and ropes to what’s left The significance of decommunisation is huge momentum in 2014: decommunisa- of the Soviet force. The Berkut (riot police) disputed. That should come as no surprise. tion. stand by and do nothing to intervene. The Not enough time has passed to evaluate its It’s 1991 and Ukraine is a newly-minted statue starts swaying. Then… Boom! The implications without bias. Many argue it is country seeking to showcase its national Lenin effigy collapses on its back, breaking necessary to remember the past, but there identity. An identity which was mostly sup- the granite paving stones below. The crowd are museums that do that job. pressed, if not banned, throughout the So- rushes in with hammers to finish the job. According to Volodymyr Viatrovych (the for- viet era. Although dismantling monuments Every blow is revenge: for the famine, for the mer head of the Institute of National Mem- and renaming streets was a must, first it was murders, for the past. All this in the course of ory), the next step should be decolonisation. ebsured that the education system no longer just a few hours. Ukraine must distance itself as far from Rus- remained archaic and outdated. Subjects This one event sparked a chain reaction of sia as possible. “Russia is using their shared Lenins toppling across Ukraine. A whopping past to strengthen its influence on Ukraine,” 504 monuments would fall all across the says Vatrovich. It is nothing more than colo- country over the next few months. Just five nial thinking and moves are being made to years on only 20 remain. support the push-back. “Leninopad was A giant leap was granting the Ukrainian happening at the GOODBYE LENIN church autocephaly. Another was the lan- will of the people This resulted in some spaces bereft of a cen- guage law – one of Petro Poroshenko’s last so no one gave two trepiece. The one in central Kyiv has been moves as president. While no one knows for used for installations, some more successful sure what the current president’s tactic will damns about the than others (a prime example being a toilet be, some think there’s hope. In light of re- government” painted gold in memory of a ‘legitimate’ cent events, however, that hope is quickly di- president.) minishing. The recent news about the Stein- But as with everything controversial, a great meier formula doesn’t seem to be the most deal of opposition came from the ‘legitimate’ promising on the decolonisation front.

12 What’s On Issue 26 15 October - 15 November 2019

Art & Family | 15 October — 15 November 2019

SYNCHRODOGS. SLIGHTLY The Wizard of Oz ALTERED 13 October at 12.00 3 October – 27 October Lesya Ukrainka National Academic Theatre Dymchuk Gallery (Yaroslavska 21) of Russian Drama (B Khmelnytskoho 5) The topic of environmental protection has From 30 UAH been on everybody’s lips lately, and Ukrain- rusdram.com.ua ian artist duo Synchrodogs haven’t bypassed it either. This series of photographs, created Crazy Dreamers during a trip to the Carpathians, explores 25 October at 18.00 how far human interventions in wild ter- National Circus of Ukraine (Peremohy Pl 2) ritories have gone. What they saw is full of From 100 UAH contradiction: stuffed wild animals in hotels circus.kiev.ua and no living animals in the woods; razed mountain forests, and forest fires. Slightly Three Little Pigs Altered is a reflection on how an individual 26 October at 11.00 person changes when he or she transforms Kiev Academic Puppet Theatre the environment. (Hrushevskoho 1a) Free 80 UAH dymchuk.com akadempuppet.kiev.ua Ivasyk-Telesyk The Forbidden Image Serhii Popov. Light 27 October at 13.00 28 June – 5 January 2020 10 October – 30 October New Ukrainian Theatre (Mykhailivska 24) PinchukArtCentre (V Vasylkivska/ Kyiv History Museum (B Khmelnytskoho 7) 150 UAH Baseina 1/3-2) 45 UAH nut.kiev.ua Free kyivhistorymuseum.org Frozen new.pinchukartcentre.org 27 October at 15.00 MUHi Finalists Exhibition 2019 Freedom Hall (Kyrylivska 134) Evgeny Merman. Bilder Atlas 17 October – 10 November 100 UAH 6 September – 5 November Taras Shevchenko National Museum freedomhall.kiev.ua Tsekh Art Gallery (Kyrylivska 69) (Shevchenko Blvd 12) Free Free At the Pike’s Behest tsekh.com.ua museumshevchenko.org.ua 31 October at 17.00 Kyiv Municipal Academic Puppet Theatre Triumphs and Holidays PARASKA PLYTKA-HORYTSVIT. (Myropilska 1) 11 September – 27 October OVERCOMING GRAVITY 70 UAH Khanenko Art Museum 17 October – 19 January puppet-theater.kiev.ua (Tereshchenkivska 15) Mystetskyi Arsenal (Lavrska 10-12) 40 UAH Cinderella Sand Fairytale Overcoming Gravity is a story about the khanenkomuseum.kiev.ua 3 November at 12.00 fascinating life of Paraska Plytka-Horytsvit. Budynok Kino (Saksahanskoho 6) She was an outstanding Hutsul artist, philos- The Corrosion of Character. 120 UAH opher, writer, ethnographer, and photogra- L’uomo Flessibile ukrkino.com.ua pher. Her brilliance lay in her ability to go 12 September – 3 November beyond borders without even leaving her na- IZONE (Naberezhno-Luhova 8) Emotions Kids Disco Party tive village. In her spiritual images, dreamy Free 6 November at 17.00 texts, ethnographic records, imaginary land- izone.ua Palats Sportu (Sportyvna Pl 1) scapes and documentary photos, reality and 100 UAH fantasy are intertwined. Her experiments spalace.com.ua There There… with images illustrate the diversity of life and 25 September – 22 October human emotions from every possible angle, Institut Français d’Ukraine through poetry, painting and photography. (O Honchara 84) 40 – 80 UAH Free artarsenal.in.ua InstituFrancaisUkraine

COLOUR GAMES in a new way. Parents will have the pleas- 27 October at 11.00 ure of watching their children take their DAKH Contemporary Arts Centre first creative steps, develop their body lan- (V Vasylkivska 136) guage, and discover their bodies through This interactive dance show promises to dance. The show is a joint project by be an unforgettable event for children Lithuanian choreographer Birute Banevi- up to 3 years old. Guided by a dancer chute, along with Ukrainian actors of the and actress, kids will have the chance Dakh theatre. to interact with abstract objects (blocks, From 150 UAH ribbons, hoops, balls, and clown noses) dax.com.ua

14 What’s On Issue 26 15 Oсtober - 15 November 2019

Nightlife | 15 October — 15 November 2019

Faktor-2 Salat: White Acid w/ Apashe 17 October at 21.00 19 October at 23.00 CLAPTONE (DE, HOUSE, TECH) D Fleur Night Club (Hrushevskoho 3) Secret Place 25 October at 23.59 250 UAH From 400 UAH CHI (Parkova Doroha 16a) DFleurNightClub salat.party On Friday 25 October, welcome in the first day of the Sabbath Kedir Livanskiy: Your Need / Point: Miley Serious & Veronique and the main guest of the night – Aircraft 19 October at 23.59 the mystical and mysterious Clap- 18 October at 20.00 Otel’ (Nyzhnoiurkivska 31) tone. With his face always hidden Closer (Nyzhnoiurkivska 31) From 250 UAH under a mask of gold, he’ll be Price TBA otelleto right in character as we roll up closerkiev to Halloween. Mixing a deep im- Bad Girls Tequila Party mersion of house waves with the International French Touch Party 23 October at 22.00 magic of an occult beat and the 19 October at 23.00 Caribbean Club (Symona Petlyury 4) compilation of various sounds, D Fleur Night Club (Hrushevskoho 3) Ladies FREE this is going to be one night you TBA Gents 250 UAH won’t soon forget. DFleurNightClub caribbean.com.ua 500 UAH chiticket.com Thursday Dance Storm 24 October at 22.00 BAD GIRLS PARTY Caribbean Club (Symona Petlyury 4) 16 October at 22.00 Ladies FREE Caribbean Club (Symona Petlyury 4) Gents 250 UAH Are you feeling a little cold before they caribbean.com.ua turn the heat on? Well, maybe it’s just the right time to shake that body and Worn Pop: She Past Away warm up! Shake it like it’s your last 25 October at 20.00 night on earth! Shake it like you’re the Mezzanine (Nyzhnoiurkivska 31) baddest girl alive! Feel the rave rushing From 500 UAH through your veins? Come and party mezzaninekyiv until morning, dance to the latest hits, and enjoy entertainment from the Venderstrooik live – Otel’ Official unique NC-17 showballet with the 25 October at 23.00 amazing Sergio Kunitsin as MC. Otel’ (Nyzhnoiurkivska 31) Ladies FREE TBA Gents 250 UAH otelleto caribbean.com.ua THP Session: Raphael Carrau, Otis, Haathi 25 October at 23.55 Closer (Nyzhnoiurkivska 31) M1 Party with Monatik Price TBA 31 October at 21.00 closerkiev Queen Kyiv (Naberezhne Shosse 25) Price TBA

Toh Kay (Streetlight Manifesto) queen.kyiv 26 October at 20.00 Art-club Tepliy Lampovy (Mykhaila Worn Pop: Jessica93 Omelianovycha-Pavlenka 4/6) 8 November at 20.00 250 UAH Mezzanine (Nyzhnoiurkivska 31) tepliy.lampoviy From 350 UAH mezzaninekyiv Deep Space Odyssey by Kinky Friendly Family LOW: Ivan Smagghe 26 October at 22.00 8 November at 23.55 Secret place Closer (Nyzhnoiurkivska 31) From 800 UAH Price TBA kinkyfriendlyfamily.com closerkiev Halloween Salsa Bachata Party Laurent Garnier 31 October at 20.00 9 November at 23.55 Dance Café Salsita (Kyrylivska 6) Closer (Nyzhnoiurkivska 31) From 100 UAH Price TBA salsitadancecafe closerkiev

16 What’s On Issue 26 15 Oсtober - 15 November 2019 A Ghostly Good Time

HALLOWEEN IS RAPIDLY GETTING MORE POPULAR IN UKRAINE. WE DELVE INTO THE HISTORY OF THE CELEBRATION, AND DIRECT YOU TO SOME OF THE SPOOKIEST PARTIES IN KYIV

Daria Issaeva The ancient rite of Trick or Treat has now nothing at all about Halloween, while 66% become a particular favourite for chil- had heard of it but did not celebrate. Only Celebrated the evening of 31 October, dren, who dress up in scary clothes and 9% of Ukrainians intended to celebrate the old Celtic holiday of Halloween used go round their neighbourhoods to either back then. Although this percentage is to be known as All Saints Eve. And it’s a frighten adults (the “trick”) or force them surely higher now, there are still significant celebration that continues to find popu- to pay them off with sweets (the “treat”). numbers of Ukrainians who don’t celebrate larity in Ukraine. But first things first. Halloween or are even opposed to it! THE 31ST IN UA THE HISTORY OF HALLOWEEN Halloween started becoming more and The history of the holiday begins in the more popular in Ukraine little more than pre-Christian era. Celtic tribes divided a decade ago and already has its fans and the year into two parts – winter and sum- traditions. If in North America it’s pri- mer. The October 31st was considered marily something for kids, in Ukraine it’s the last day of the outgoing year. It also the young people who celebrate it noisily meant the end of the harvest and the and cheerfully in bars and clubs, many transition to winter. That night, accord- of which organise Halloween parties for ing to the ancient belief of the Celts, the their guests. worlds of the living and the dead opened Just seven years ago, in October 2012, a their doors and the inhabitants of the survey found that 25% of Ukrainians knew other world made their way to earth. To avoid becoming victims of spirits and ghosts, the Celts put out the fires in their WHERE TO CELEBRATE: homes and wore animal skins to scare In recent years, Kyiv’s most popular Hal- If punk is more your thing, head to away uninvited souls. Outside, they left loween celebration has been held at Safe. Docker Pub. treats for spirits, and their druid priests Every year, they organise a party based Docker Pub lit communal bonfires and sacrificed an- on a cult movie theme: past themes have Bohatyrska, 25 imals. After the sacrifices, people brought included Game of Thrones and Planet 31 October at 20.00 embers from the sacred bonfire to relight of the Apes. This year, it’s time to get 125 – 1450 UAH their own fires. Sacred flames were also lit out your tricorn hats, bandanas, and eye docker.com.ua in hollowed-out pumpkins to scare away patches for their pirate theme! evil spirits. Safe And at Caribbean Club, everybody will With the coming of Christianity, the Velyka Vasylkivska 23a be in fancy dress, with no strict theme. church fought for a long time against the 1 November (time TBC) Caribbean Club custom of frightening and appeasing evil TBC Symona Petlyury 4 spirits, but the pagan holiday not only KaraokeBarSafe 1 November (time TBC) survived, it became inextricably linked 200 – 400 UAH in the public mind with the church’s All For Stephen King fans, TAO is holding CaribbeanClub Saints commemoration. a large-scale horror-themed Halloween The hollowed-out pumpkin tradition party entitled It – Chapter Two. Entrance And last but not least, to experience “the goes back to the legend of an Irish black- is free to anyone in a clown costume (if scariest Halloween in history”. smith named Jack who managed to cheat you’re a real clown, it doesn’t count). Voodoo Magic the Devil out of sending his soul to hell. TAO Event Hall Coyote Ugly However, Jack did not go to heaven and Baseina 2a Mechnikova 9a was forced to roam the earth until Judg- 25 October at 22.00 / 1 November at 22.00 ment Day. He lit his way with a piece of 1 November at 22.00 50 – 250 UAH coal which he hid from the weather inside 150 UAH CoyoteUglyKiev an empty pumpkin. Hence the Jack-o- Taohallevent Lantern reference.

17 Live Music | 15 October — 15 November 2019

Mika Chuev (country) Onuka and Naoni (electro pop, folk) 16 October at 20.00 25 October at 19.00 Blues Bar (Mykhailivska 24a) International Centre of Culture and Art Price TBC (Heroyiv Nebesnoyi Sotni 1) Bluesbarkyiv From 420 UAH icca.kiev.ua Dakh Daughters (folk, cabaret) 17 October at 19.00 Artemiev (RU, rock) International Centre of Culture and Art 27 October at 19.00 (Heroyiv Nebesnoyi Sotni 1) Caribbean Club (Symona Petlyury 4) From 350 UAH From 350 UAH icca.kiev.ua caribbean.com.ua

Dope (US, nu-metal) Sergey Babkin (pop) 17 October at 20.00 JINJER (METAL) 27 October at 20.00 Atlas (Sichovykh Striltsiv 37/41) 8 November at 20.00 International Centre of Culture and Art From 750 UAH Bingo (Peremohy Pr 112) (Heroyiv Nebesnoyi Sotni 1) Atlas37 Jinjer belongs to the category of bands From 250 UAH who are well-known abroad, but not so icca.kiev.ua Carbon Based Lifeforms (SW, famous at home. Playing progressive ambient) metal with elements of groove, metal- Michael Gira (US, rock) 19 October at 19.00 core, and death metal, in the wider 31 November at 19.00 Atlas (Sichovykh Striltsiv 37/41) world, they’re one of the most famous Caribbean Club (Symona Petlyury 4) From 890 UAH Ukrainian acts, who tour a lot: by 2018, From 700 UAH Atlas37 the group had given more than 130 caribbean.com.ua concerts around the world. Their vid- Electrophoresis (RU, electropop) eos have tens of millions of views on Hellish Halloween by Radio 19 October at 19.00 YouTube, and each of their concerts is Submarina Mezzanine (Nyzhnoiurkivska 31) much-awaited by metal fans in Europe, 2 November at 17.00 From 400 UAH as well as North and South America, Bingo Club (Peremohy Pr 112) mezzaninekyiv Japan and South Africa. With most of 250 UAH their concerts selling out quite quickly, RadioSubmarina Robust Evening: Ethereal Riffian, will that be the case in Kyiv? Somali Yacht Club, VS (psychedelic) From 420 UAH Luna-Luna (rock-n-roll) 20 October at 20.00 bingo.ua 4 November at 20.00 Mezzanine (Nyzhnoiurkivska 31) Blues Bar (Mykhailivska 24a) From 250 UAH TBC mezzaninekyiv Palina (BY, indie pop) Bluesbarkyiv 24 October at 20.00 Perturbator (FR, EDM) Mezzanine Boombox (pop, rock, hip-hop) 21 October at 20.00 (Nyzhniourkivska 31) 9 November at 19.00 Atlas (Sichovykh Striltsiv 37/41) From 250 UAH Palats Sportu (Sportyvna Pl 1) From 720 UAH mezzaninekyiv From 500 UAH Atlas37 boomboxfamily Pyryatyn POD (US, rock, metal) (power country, folk) Lera Lynn (US folk, instrumental) 24 October at 20.00 25 October at 20.00 14 November at 19.00 Bingo (Peremohy Pr 112) Volume Club (Harmatna 26/2) Caribbean Club (Symona Petlyury 4) From 800 UAH From 150 UAH From 550 UAH bingo.ua volumeclub caribbean.com.ua

AGNOSTIC FRONT (US, HARDCORE) 12 November at 20.00 Atlas (Sichovykh Striltsiv 37/41) Agnostic Front, undisputed leaders in the hardcore genre, are coming to Kyiv. In 1983, they released their EP United Blood, exhibiting their singular brand of punk with a more aggressive rhythm section and unusual vocals. A year later, they released Victim in Pain, their first LP, edging further into hardcore. This year, with 35 years behind them, the group is going on tour to recall the madness of the classic 1980s New York hardcore scene. Equally important in their music are their honest, socially-oriented texts: rather than selling out to commercialism, they’re still making protest songs as they did three decades ago. This concert is a unique chance to hear hits Gotta Go, For My Family, United & Strong, Do or Die, My Life My Way, as well as songs from the latest album, The American Dream Died. So, meet you in the moshpit! From 740 UAH Atlas37

18 What’s On Issue 26 15 Oсtober - 15 November 2019 Sport/Cinema/Festivals | 15 October — 15 November 2019

Dynamo Kyiv – Ukrainian Premier Kyiv Basket – Ukrainian Joker League Football SuperLeague Basketball 15 October at 19.00 20 October at 17.00 12 October at 18.00 @ Cherkasy Cinema Citi (Ocean Plaza, 3rd floor) vs. FC Oleksandriya Mavpy From 120 UAH 27 October at 17.00 vs. Karpaty Lviv 1 November at 18.00 vs. Prometey cinemaciti.ua 2 November at 18.00 vs. FC Lviv 3 November at 18.00 vs. BK 9 November at 18.00 Zaporizhzhia The Lehman Trilogy (Theatre) @ Shakhtar Donetsk 9 November at 18.00 @ Mykolaiv 19 October at 15.00 Olympic Stadium (V Vasylkivka 55) Meridian Sports Complex (Heroiv Sevastopol- Multiplex Lavina Mall (Berkovetska 6d) 50 – 500 UAH ya 11b) or Palace of Sports (Sportyvna Pl 1) From 90 UAH fcdynamo.kiev.ua 100 – 300 UAH multiplex.ua kyiv-basket.com.ua Elvis Unleashed FC Kolos – Ukrainian Premier 29 October at 19.00 League Football Kyiv Ice Wolves – Ukrainian Hockey Multiplex Lavina Mall (Berkovetska 6d), 18 October at 19.00 League Skymall (Generala Vatutina 2t) @ Shakhtar Donetsk 16 October at 16.45 vs. Kremenchuk multiplex.ua 26 October at 14.00 @ Mariupol 23 October at 19.00 @ Kherson 2 November at 18.00 Dnipro One Man, Two Guvnors (Theatre) vs. Olimpik Donetsk 27 October at 13.30 vs. Bilyy Bars 30 October at 19.30 9 November at 18.00 Snow Leopards Multiplex Skymall (Generala Vatutina 2t) @ Zorya Luhansk 30 October at 16.45 vs. HC Dynamo From 190 UAH Obolon Arena (26 Pivnichna St.) Kharkiv multiplex.ua 10 – 20 UAH 3 November at TBD @ Kherson koloskovalivka.com Dnipro A Midsummer Night’s Dream (Theatre) 33 November at TBD vs. Kherson 13 November at 19.30 Dnipro Multiplex Skymall (Generala Vatutina 2t) Shallett Arena (Mista Shallett 6) From 190 UAH 30 – 60 UAH multiplex.ua vovki.in.ua Tuesday Evenings at Cinema Citi Every Tuesday at 19.00 IIHF Ice Hockey Continental Cup Cinema Citi (Ocean Plaza, Antonovycha 176) Group B round-robin tournament be- EUROPA LEAGUE RETURNS TO 120 UAH tween HC Donbas (Ukraine), Corona KYIV cinemaciti.ua 24 October at 22.00 Brasov (Romania), Crvena Zvezda (Ser- vs. Copenhagen bia), and Mogo Riga (Latvia). Olympic Stadium (V Vasylkivka 55) 18-20 October 7 November at 18.55 Terminal Ice Arena in Brovary (Kyivska 316) at Copenhagen (Copenhagen, Denmark) 30 – 60 UAH Chrysanthemum Festival Europa League action returns to Kyiv hcdonbass.com 20 – 27 October Spіvoche Pole (Lavrska 33) this month as our boys in blue and 25-75 UAH white face Danish champions Copen- Dance Sport World Championships spivochepole hagen in a home-and-away Group 19-20 October Stage tie. It’s been a tough start to Parkovy Convention & Exhibition Centre Happy Scary Birthday Kurazh Bazar (Parkovy 16a) the season for Dynamo, who canned 26 – 27 October TBD their entire coaching staff after - be VDNH (Akademika Hlushkova 1) uoc.biz ing bounced from the Champions 150 UAH League for the third straight year. It kurazhbazar hasn’t been much easier in the Europa Last One Standing Marathon League, with the team crawling to a Complete a 6 700-metre lap in an hour. Ulichnaya Eda. Scary Food. 1-0 home win over Sweden’s lowly Take less time? Take a break. You walk it? Halloween Malmo thanks to an 84’ minute mark- Gotta keep going. If you refuse to start a 2 – 3 November er by midfielder Vitaliy Buyalskyi and new lap – you’re out. Last one standing Art Zavod Platforma (Bilomorska 1) a tepid scoreless draw away at Swit- wins! 150 UAH zerland’s lower-ranked Lugano. The 2-3 November from 8.30 – 18.00 ulichnayaeda favourites in Group B, Dynamo, will Muromets Island look to pull away from the pack after 250 UAH Scythian International Festival of the home-and-away set with Copen- mksua Equestrian Martial Arts hagen – Scandinavia’s top team. The 2 – 3 November teams meet at Kyiv’s Olympic Stadi- Kyivan Rus Park (Kopachiv, Obukhiv district) um on 24 October before heading to 80-250 UAH Denmark for the return leg on 7 No- parkkyivrus vember. The top two teams advance to the Europa League playoffs starting Kyiv Blues Fest in February next year. 8 – 9 November 50 – 1 000 UAH Cinema House (Saksahanskoho 6) fcdynamo.kiev.ua From 300 UAH MarcoConcert

19 Theatre | 15 October — 15 November 2019

Orestea Modern take on an ancient myth JOZEF VAN WISSEM 16 October at 19.00 8 November at 19.00 Theatre on Podil The House of Architect (Hrinchenko 7) (Andriyivskyy descent 20a) There are numerous reasons why you 200 – 700 UAH should not miss Jozef Van Wissem’s con- theatreonpodol.com cert. First and foremost he is a renowned Dutch composer and lute player. His mu- Ballet Open Space. sic is dark and hypnotic, so it should come Forest Song as no surprise that he collaborates with Jim 17 October at 19.00 Jarmusch. In 2013, he prepared the score for National Opera of Ukraine Jarmusch’s Only Lovers Left Alive, winning the (Volodymyrska 50) Cannes Soundtrack Award for his efforts. In From 200 UAH 2019, the two released the album An Attempt opera.com.ua to Draw Aside the Veil, which is “another adventure into the dreamlike texture of darkness Cinematic Symphony and light”, in Jarmusch’s words. Eclectic Sound Orchestra 200 – 400 UAH 18 October at 19.30 concert.ua Kyiv Planetarium (V Vasylkivska 57/3) 250 – 450 UAH planet.org.ua A View from the Bridge By My Window Drama by Arthur Miller Monologue under the Christmas Tree Carnage 20 October at 19.00 2 November at 18.00 Eccentric comedy Lesia Ukrainka National Academic Kyiv Academic Young Theatre 19 October at 19.00 Theatre (Khmelnytskoho 5) (Prorizna 17) Kyiv Academic Young Theatre 40 – 300 UAH 200 UAH (Prorizna 17) rusdram.com.ua molodyytheatre.com 80 – 300 UAH molodyytheatre.com Insenso The Wild One Opera without music Tragicomedy 22 October at 19.00 3 November at 19.00 Kyiv Academic Young Theatre Kyiv Academic Theatre of Drama and (Prorizna 17) Comedy (Brovarskyi Pr 25) 150 UAH 120 – 240 UAH molodyytheatre.com drama-comedy.kiev.ua

Piano Space Miss Julie In programme: Ravel, Debussy, Naturalistic drama Tchaikovsky, Chopin 9 November at 19.00 25 October at 19.30 Kyiv Academic Young Theatre Kyiv Planetarium (V Vasylkivska 57/3) (Prorizna 17) 250 – 450 UAH 150 UAH planet.org.ua molodyytheatre.com

The Kaidashi 2.0. The Ideal Couple Reinvention of Ivan-Nechui Levitskyi’s Comedy story 12 November at 19.00 HEDDA GABLER 28 October at 20.00 Kyiv Academic Theatre of Drama and 18 October at 19.00 Stage 6 (Vasylkivska 1) Comedy (Brovarskyi Pr 25) Golden Gate Theatre 200 UAH 150 – 300 UAH (Shovkovychna 7a) wild-t.com.ua drama-comedy.kiev.ua Once you are seated in the theatre and all the lights are focused Michael Jackson Symphony Game of Thrones: on the stage you will immediately GosOrchestra Grand Final forget that you are only watching a 28 October at 19.00 An epic show featuring the Andrei play. You become an essential part Caribbean Club (Symona Petlury 4) Chernykh Orchestra and Sympho of Hedda’s world and completely 400 – 790 UAH Rock choir dissolve in this immortal play by caribbean.com.ua 14 November at 19.00 Henrik Ibsen. It’s the kind of sto- Palace of Ukraine ry where a love triangle and total Second Love (Vasylkivska 103) mutual misunderstanding create Romance 300 – 1 499 UAH life-threatening chaos. 30 October at 19.00 concert.ua 220 UAH Kyiv Academic Young Theatre (Prorizna 17) zoloti-vorota.kiev.ua 80 – 300 UAH molodyytheatre.com

20 What’s On Issue 26 15 Oсtober - 15 November 2019

What’s Ahead

ART WEDNESDAY 20 November at 19.00 IZONE (Naberezhno-Luhova 8) If you’re interested in art or fancy yourself as having some artistic flair then Art Wednesday is the project for you. Every Wednesday, they invite different speakers to share their experience of art and attempt to inspire others to try something new. This is also an educa- FEVER 333 tional project in various forms: pres- 25 November at 20.00 entation, exhibition, film screening, Atlas (Sichovykh Striltsiv 37-41) performance, lecture, and discussion. This group is a rapcore sensation, en- So, if you are artistically inclined, don’t compassing all the best of this genre. miss your chance to become a part of UA ELECTRO Vibrant live shows and caustic polit- the art scene. 30 November 23.00 icised lyrics add to the group’s world- Free Otel’ (Nyzhnoiurkivska 31) wide fan base. Fever 333 has struck a izone.ua An incredible journey awaits! Is it ret- balance between pop elements familiar ro or futurism? How about both? Find to listeners and a raw sound. Featuring yourself in a hi-tech future with some vocalist Jason Aalon Butler, guitarist vivid images from the past! Pilot a flying Stephen Harrison, and drummer Arik car, get self-tying trainers, and maybe Improta, the threesome were nominat- even fall in love with a robot! All this ed for a Grammy for best rock perfor- and more to the accompaniment of mance, and this after only two years of Marco Malpeso, a special guest from collaboration and before the release of Berlin! His crazy alien-like electro will their debut album! turn this night into something remi- 890 UAH niscent of space travel! More than 30 Atlas37 000 tracks are going to help you forget about reality! Check out the link for more info and to find out more about the line-up, but don’t dawdle – tickets will sell out like hot cakes! TBA otelleto

KYIV TO HOST TOP JUNIOR HOCKEY EVENT 12-18 December Ukraine Schedule 12 Dec vs Hungary 14 Dec vs Poland 15 Dec vs France 17 Dec vs Italy 18 Dec vs Estonia Palace of Sports (Sportyvna Pl 1) A BLUE CAR Ukraine’s finest young hockey play- SNOW QUEEN SAND FAIRYTALE 27 November at 19.00 ers will be taking on the world as 8 December at 12.00 Kyiv Academic Young Theatre (Prorizna 17) Ukraine is set to host the Division 1B Budynok Kino (Saksahanskoho 6) This play is based on the work of fa- under-20 world hockey championships This promises to be an event guar- mous Ukrainian playwright Yaroslav at Kyiv’s Palace of Sports this Decem- anteed to instill the Christmas spirit Stelmakh, and is a confession on how ber. The city has evidently impressed in you and your kids. This astonish- difficult a creative person’s life can be. the International Ice Hockey Federa- ing sand show tells the magical fairy- The title character, played by Oleksiy tion as this is the third year straight that tale of the Snow Queen. Watch one Vertynskyi, contemplates the process Kyiv will host an international cham- of the most touching tales by Hans of writing, words, and aspirations. pionship. Ukraine will face off against Christian Andersen come to life with It might seem that his life is wrought opponents from Estonia, France, Hun- the help of the professional artists with struggle, but it is actually full of gary, Italy, and Poland, with the top from the Golden Lion Theatre. Im- joy and adventures. A Blue Car man- team being promoted to the second-tier merse yourself in the brave little ages to keep the audience’s attention Division 1A in 2020. All Ukraine brave girl’s adventures and discover from the first until the very last second. games start at 20.00 and tickets start why there is nothing stronger than a Buckle up. from 80 UAH. loving heart. 300 UAH 80 – 300 UAH 120 UAH molodyytheatre.com iihf.com ukrkino.com.ua

22 What’s On Issue 26 15 Oсtober - 15 November 2019 BEAUTY DOES NOT NEED TO HARM OUR LITTLE FRIENDS. FIND YOUR FAVOURITE CRUELTY-FREE PRODUCTS AT

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MASTER OF CEREMONIES VOLODYMYR / / OSTAPCHUK 14 12 2019 Admission to dinner, СЕС “PARKOVY” cocktails and auction preview Kyiv , Parkova Road, 16-а UAH 5 500 +38 096 963 39 88 +38 096 515 37 28 (after November 1, UAH 6 500) [email protected] supporting.ucu.edu.ua What’s All the Fuss

friends, is a bedroom. I know this because FACING REALITY Home Sweet that is the exact room I rented in a Kyiv Air- Rental options within my budget were Home… Almost bnb whilst I began my search for long-term slim, and I was growing more des- accommodation. perate by the hour, the picture of my one-legged hostel roommate seared ON THE MOVE into my memory. It became very ap- Two weeks later I left my Airbnb behind parent to me that sacrifices were going and checked into one of Kyiv’s many pris- to have to be made (in my case, a wash- tine hostels. I faced my fears as I was greeted ing machine). with: “Sorry – no hot water. Maybe tomor- My friend assured me that there would row, maybe not.” I had a flashback to sto- always be a price to pay… Great loca- ries of my parents’ visit to Ukraine in 1991; tion but no washing machine; washing could there really be 28 years between our machine but no glass on the bedroom experiences? After one week of cold water window; glass on the bedroom window and listening to my one-legged roommate but power outages when the vacuum Natalya Jaddock yelling Russian curse words in the middle of and washing machine are running at the night, it was time to get serious. So I did the same time. How much was I willing When I began my search for an apartment what any expat would do: I called a Ukrain- to sacrifice for a washing machine? I

wo outlander wo in Kyiv, I threw all of my expectations out ian friend for help. reached deep into my soul and decided the window. Why? Because that was the only I was a strong independent woman and way I was going to be able to find a place. JUDGEMENT DAY did not need a washing machine. Soon I was walking into an old apartment VERSATILITY IS KEY building to have a look at a room that was FOCUSING ON THE BIGGER Welcome to Ukraine, the land where any listed online. Let’s have another round PICTURE piece of house furniture is considered a of our game, shall we? What do you call If there’s one thing that travelling and “bed”. Or, the land where any room is con- a room with a desk, piano, couch, and living in Ukraine have taught me, it’s sidered a bedroom. Let’s play a game: what two armchairs? Whatever you’ve guessed that the necessities of life are very sim- do you call a room with a table and chairs, a is wrong. This, of course, is a bedroom. ple. Sometimes a questionably com- piano, and a china cabinet? If you guessed And no, the piano hasn’t been in tune fortable couch-bed and out-of-tune “dining room” you’re wrong. That, my since the collapse of the Soviet Union. piano are all you need.

of these “ghosts” will probably be unfortu- to help by contacting the volunteers who as- nate, and sooner or later, many constructions sist with preserving these particular buildings. Preserving of historical value will vanish. The so-called pre-revolutionary buildings or Detailed stories about individual buildings can be “royal” houses are attractive because each found via the project’s social media accounts the Past one is a work of art. Kyiv wasn’t so heavily built-up in those days, so architects had an renovation.map  Natalia Kurtyak entire platform for their creativity. That’s map_renovation why the city’s historical areas matter. Main- The Future Renovation Map is a project that taining this authentic spirit delights both lo- finished among the top 11 at the Open Data cals and tourists alike. Challenge 2019 – the third such competition The project’s team strives to provide as de- for software developers that took place over tailed a historical record as possible for each the spring and summer of this year. The abandoned house. The map will also be filled startup that came up with the idea has re- with data found in the archives: architectural cently been funded 550 000 UAH towards drawings, sketches and photo chronicles on its development. The main point is not in how façades have changed over the years, the software, however, but in the mission be- as well as design decisions for each building. hind it: creating an interactive map, provid- All the spots on the map will be filtered by ing information on the status of abandoned ownership (private or communal) and by se- buildings and spaces in the city, which will be curity status (valid or canceled architectural available for download and use. monument).

NEGLECT VALUABLE INFORMATION There are hundreds of neglected architec- This information will be useful not only for tural monuments, pre-revolutionary houses, citizens but for businesses that might want to and other historic buildings across Kyiv that restore the building. And the task is not that are slowly being demolished. Some buildings easy – renovation must be undertaken with- were privatised, which didn’t set the tone for out changing the exterior; however, develop- a bright future. The owners aren’t terribly ers can remodel the inside in a modern style. bothered about the historical component ei- In addition, the map will expose the plans of ther: they’re more concerned with the new the buildings’ owners and it will be simpler to construction after the old ones fall. The fate understand what the fate of each structure will be. Anyone who is interested will be able

24 What’s On Issue 26 15 October - 15 November 2019 want to learn more, have a listen – you will The only negative to this story is that Palin- About Today, be treated to a lot of poetry in spirit, not in drom has no plans for any concerts just yet. form, because in reality it is part of a mu- As the artist admits, his vocal abilities are not Tomorrow and sical mix. The most accurate metaphor for strong enough to sing at live shows. But he this album is life itself, such as it is, without is working on it, and we hope to hear him Yesterday unnecessary pathos or outrage. And be- soon. cause of this, the record is very honest. Lera Zdanevych Palindrom is often compared to the early Skryabin. Before he came to Kyiv, Skryabin BY PALINDROM was making synth pop and new wave music It may not only be the best album of the with influences drawn from Depeche Mode, month, but of the whole year too. It’s cer- which is often cited as the best period in his tainly already one of the best Ukrain- discography. Glava says he doesn’t know why ian music projects to emerge in 2019. this comparison exists, because he didn’t set Palindrom is the project of Lviv hip-hop artist out to copy this style or to make covers. Stepan Glava, also known as Coughing Ed. What it means is that Skryabin’s music is so He is also a member of Chapter 94, a hip- deeply embedded in Ukrainian culture that hop band from his stamping ground. How- its influence has become unconscious: cultur- ever, this current record has no hint of rap. al heritage from which the next generation The project started as an experiment. The of musicians grow. In a cultural context it’s author didn’t even think about writing tracks Ukrainians growing up on Ukrainian music,

in this style, but feedback from the first tracks adopting something from the previous gen- release new best convinced Glava to continue making music. erations, without directly quoting them. About Today, Tomorrow and Yesterday houses 11 Glava himself sees the irony in this and says Listen to the tracks featuring elements of post-punk, mel- that he wants to market this with the label album here: ancholic synth-pop, a bit of recital, a Stepan “similar to early Skryabin”, but at the same Giga cover, and a poem by Ivan Kovalenko. time admits that Kuzma’s music is also on This, of course, is a broad description. If you his playlist.

The Poroshenko Café

Tassy Klim

Not far from the Roshen factory, a new churros on offer. The staff too are cheer- venue has recently opened – Nice On ful and happy to help, though most don’t Café (also known as the Roshen Café). speak much English. While former president Petro Poroshen- As churros are mostly fried dough, your ko won’t be making the coffee himself, we body will get an immediate kick out of wanted to check out whether this new in- the high calorie content. Still, it would be vestment has the beans to make it in a city unfair to say that this is their only merit. that knows and loves a good cup of joe. The strawberry churros are full of sweet EDIBLE INVENTORY filling, but it’s tricky to take a bite without Churros with orange-choco dip 50 UAH YUM, OR..? losing any over the side. Meanwhile, the Churros with strawberry filling 25 UAH Upon entering Nice On Café, you may plain churros are nicely sprinkled with ei- Latte 35 UAH be surprised to find that it isn’t really a ther a chocolate or orange glaze. My milk- Bilberry milkshake 40 UAH separate entity from the Roshen store it- shake is on the mediocre side, but it’s easy Total: 150 UAH self. With only six tables to choose from, enough to drink. The latte, on the other and the checkout and tables so close to- hand, is a nice surprise. It is not terribly THE WHAT’S ON CHECKLIST gether, it feels as though there is a distinct strong, mind you, and may prove too mild English Menu  lack of space. I will say, though, the kitch- for some coffee lovers. English-speaking staff  en behind glass adds a nice touch to the The overall feel is that this is a café for Wi-fi  colour scheme featuring hues of choco- people in a hurry – there’s not much Price $ late (surprise surprise) and yellow. space, there’s no wi-fi, and a very limit- WO Rating Ukraine is a country of extremes – while ed menu. Both food and drink are okay, one past president owned a golden toilet, but it still feels like a sketch rather than Nice On Café there are some cafés that have no toilet a masterpiece. While they are still testing Nauky Pr 1

at all. At least there’s a sink here to wash the waters, the number of customers says ¾ 8.00 – 21.00 street on the what’s your hands before chowing down on the there is potential. roshenstores.com

25 What’s All the Fuss Autumn Checklist

Daria Isaieva

F. Scott Fitzgerald wrote in his novel The flora and fauna, and atmosphere. Take a LEARN TO COOK Great Gatsby: “Life starts all over again picture with your eyes. If you don’t have AN “AUTUMN DISH” when it gets crisp in the fall,” and we time to leave the city, you can always My signature autumn dishes are pies, couldn’t agree more. Not feeling so in- visit Holosiivskyi Park, Feofaniya Park, especially pumpkin and mushroom. spired? Need a little help? Here we go… the Hryshko Central Botanical Garden, There is something cosy and very Pushcha-Vodytsia, or Trukhaniv Island. autumnal about the smell of pastries TURN UP THE LIGHTS (OR BUY wafting through your apartment. SOME NEW LIGHT BULBS) MAKE MULLED WINE AT HOME Think of a dish you associate with au- It’s been scientifically proven that the It’s easier than you think. tumn, and learn to cook it. We suggest lighting in a room affects the well-be- visiting a khachapuri master class (reg- ing of its inhabitants. Some kinds of ARRANGE A DETOX OF YOUR ularly held at several of Kyiv’s Geor- light can have a positive effect, while WARDROBE gian restaurants). others cause harm. Insufficient light- Put away your summer clothes and ing can cause headaches, problems fill your wardrobe with jumpers and DECLARE THE THEATRE SEASON with vision, feelings of despondency, sweaters, jeans and trousers, sneakers OFFICIALLY OPEN and even depression. The colour of and boots. Order in your wardrobe If anything can tear a person away the lighting can also influence your equals order in your mind. from a good book in the autumn, it’s emotional and mental state: a trip to the theatre. You could go for DO A BIT OF ART THERAPY something unusual, perhaps at the Yellow, the colour of joy, can eliminate Start taking adult painting courses. Dykyi (Wild) Theatre, which is famous the feeling of fatigue and drowsiness. And if you don’t want to poke your for its sharp social commentary and Green lighting helps you relax, mak- nose outside, get creative at home. You unusual approach to productions. Al- ing it ideal for bedrooms. can throw your negative emotions onto ternatively, opt for the good old classics Red is invigorating but shouldn’t be paper or just dream about summer and at the Ivan Franko Theatre. overused as it can raise your blood sketch a sunny landscape. pressure. RETURN TO YOUR Shades of blue and violet are not BUY A COSY SWEATER: GYM SCHEDULE recommended for day rooms: pro- BEAUTIFUL, FLUFFY, AND WARM It’s a great mood-booster: just think longed exposure to these colours can As recommended by the Danish theory of the endorphins you produce during dampen your mood of cosiness, or hygge: to enhance the training, not to mention the sense of The white light of LED lamps is as effect of happiness, you need to make achievement you’ll feel afterwards. close as possible to natural white light purchases associated with a happy mo- and can activate your initiative and ef- ment. For example, when I finish that SMILE ficiency. project, I’ll celebrate it with a new To yourself, to your reflection in the sweater or a pair of pyjamas. mirror, your friends, and that attrac- RUSTLE THE LEAVES UNDER tive stranger. YOUR FEET LIGHT CANDLES It helps in any difficult situation. It gets dark early in autumn and win- PS ter, so you have at least one great rea- Let us know how you like to GO HIKING son for a candlelit dinner. spend autumn. Write to us at Wear comfortable and warm clothes, [email protected] bring a thermos of coffee or tea, and LEARN TO PLAY A NEW MUSICAL take enough food and water. Leave with INSTRUMENT The best responses will be published friends early in the morning when the air When I mastered the piano, my life in next month’s issue! is still damp and frosty. Climb a moun- was divided into ‘before’ and ‘after’. tain, breathe deeply, enjoy the smells, It’s even better than meditation.

26 What’s On Issue 26 15 October - 15 November 2019 Home is where... Yana Andyol CINEMATIC SPOTLIGHT These harsh tragic events seem to unapolo- A road movie. A father-and-son drama. A getically redefine the genre of Ukrainian historical narrative. These are just some of cinema. Homeward isn’t an action movie, the labels world-famous critics have giv- though. I’d call it “horror-in-silence”. A en to Homeward after its premiere at the fraught road trip from Kyiv to Russian-an- 72nd Cannes Film Festival. The feature nexed Crimea by college student Alim and Autumn debut by Ukrainian filmmaker Nariman his father Mustafa is the norm. But the fa- Aliev combines his historical Tatar herit- ther and son have a painful task – to bury age with Ukrainian cinematography. Nazim, Alim’s brother, in keeping with Muslim funeral customs. A BIT OF HISTORY The shrapnel-wounded body of Nazim is The initial deportations of Crimean Tatars just one among thousands of Ukrainians began on 18 May 1944. The order given by killed in the conflict with Russia. Strangely, Checklist the Soviet security services alleged “massive these scenes aren’t imbued with open grief, collaboration of Crimean Tatars and Nazis” pain, anger or despair. The characters Homeward has been selected as Ukraine’s under the German occupation of the pen- seem to bury their emotions deep inside in entry in the International category at the insula. Nearly 190 000 Tatars were exiled to order to fulfill the duty of Muslim religion Oscars. The film will premiere here in Central Asia, Siberia, and the Urals. and Tatar tradition. The atmosphere is Kyiv in November. History is repeating inself 70 years later, as one of quiet, routine despair. Russian authorities in Crimea have intensi- The family’s fate so vividly coincides with fied the persecution of Crimean Tatars since the Tatar people deported by Joseph Stalin the peninsula’s annexation in 2014. Under and those oppressed by the Russian au- various pretexts – from separatism to terror- thorities. Through Mustafa’s painful goal, ism charges – Russian police regularly subject Aliev lets us feel this heartbreaking hope- the Crimean Tatar community to physical lessness. The plight of the Crimean Tatars attacks, intimidation, harassment, and en- is both a story of 1944 and today. Many forced disappearances. The official number Crimean Tatars have failed in their at- of Crimean Tatars imprisoned on the penin- tempts to return after the fall of the USSR. sula and in the Russian Federation varies from Many have become castaways. And others 86 to 102, though it is constantly on the rise. still have been buried. Photo Courtesy of Cannes Film Festival what’s premiering what’s

WORK bores you. For me, that means books with One month is the optimal amount of melancholy protagonists or too much fo- time to write a novel. It is often said, “If cus on the character internal narratives, you want a task completed, entrust it to any stories set in the 15th-18th centuries in your busiest employee.” Oddly enough, wartime, and any plot with an unhappy the same rule applies when writing a ending. novel – devoting your free time to liter- In my opinion, a good novel should have ary work allows you to get it done faster everything from the first list and nothing than if you were to set aside three fo- from the second. If there are things you cused months to write. A tough deadline don’t like in the books you read, then is your surest guarantee. you aren’t going to enjoy working on Not sure where the story will go? Don’t these same items in your own creation. Curl Up worry – the plot is born while writing. However, be careful that the book you The main thing is to start. Characters pen is not a self-help campaign. A good and storylines appear as the plot devel- novel is a gala party at which you play and Write ops. The key to creating a novel is under- your favourite music; it’s a 30-day trip standing that you are in the most reliable to a candy shop where everything is free hands in the world – your own. and you don’t get fat. When considering Daria Issaeva The more you will write, the better writ- what else to include in your book, give er you will become. Full stop. Like in an- preference to forbidden pleasures rather Autumn, as the nights draw closer and ything, confidence comes with practice than boring bran. Write and you will be the temperatures fall, is the best time of and faith in your style will increase the heard. year to actively choose not to Netflix but more you do it. This is an invaluable ex- I have already started writing my novel. chill out and read. Or, better still, perhaps perience and cannot be obtained in any Have you? it’s time to get that story out of your head other way. and put pen to paper. THE FORMULA FOR SUCCESS …AND WORK SOME MORE 30-31/50k – 30-31 days and 50 000 words With the help of Chris Betty’s Literary Before you begin, however, you need to 1667/1 – 1 667 words per day Marathon. How to Write a Book in 30 Days, ask yourself what kind of novels interest 17% – this is how many marathon par- there is little room for any excuse not to you. Is it first-person narration? True ticipants get to the finish line – make a become the next Nobel laureate for liter- love? Adventure? Cliff-hangers? You also contract with yourself that you will make ature. Here’s how you’re going to do it. need to know what kind of literature it to the end.

27 OVER THE PAST FEW DECADES, JAPAN HAS MADE AN IMMENSE CULTURAL CONTRIBUTIONS TO EUROPE AND THE WORLD, AND UKRAINE IS NO EXCEPTION. AS WELL AS REVOLUTIONISING THE IT AND AUTOMOTIVE INDUSTRIES, JAPAN HAS BROADENED OUR CULINARY KNOWLEDGE Yana Andyol Irasshaimase!

As soon as au- diverse, there’s an underlying harmony, both a delicious dish and a lesson in pres- tumn entered with each appetiser playing a role. Plump, entation. Spanish bluefin tuna sashimi, ni- the capital, The juicy New Zealand mussels become ten- giri sushi, and rolls create a splendid table Ukrainian Con- der, even creamy, when combined with centrepiece. The impeccable taste of the noisseur Club Motoyaki sauce. The crunchy triangu- fresh tuna is complemented by fluffy, ten- (TUCC) gathered lar samosa with savoury vegetable curry der rice, while a rosé Praesidium Cerasu- to test out the Japa- filling provides a nice break before I get olo D’Arbuzzo is just right for the platter. nese cuisine at Fujiwara to the marinated octopus Iidako with its Yoshi’s restaurant, which has already slight spicy note. All these delicacies are A SWEET LINE-UP become a local attraction at Novopech- balanced out by the mix of vegetables: Wondering how to finish a Japanese din- erski Lypky. With its fancy façade and au- spinach Goma-ae with special sesame ner? I dip into a delicate pudding of sweet thentic Japanese interior design, this new dressing, edamame beans with Maldon milk and vanilla cream, with fresh berries dining spot opens the doors to a refined sea salt, and Japanese tsukemono Fuku- and thin slightly-salted pieces of apple. gourmet experience. jin-zuke pickles with traditional soy sauce. Dessert is paired with a light digestif, a floral liqueur made from the juice of yuzu CHEF VS TUNA lemons. The surprises begin before dinner: it turns out that today is Tuna Day. Yoshi- While TUCC members say their good- san reveals that he’s not just a great chef, byes, I leave in awe at the mastery of a but also a star performer. He appears on chef who dishes up fine meals to match stage with a huge Spanish bluefin tuna the freshness and quality of the ingredi- and plunges in his fearsomely sharp knife. ents. This elegant restaurant provides an A round of applause can be heard as the exquisite epicurean journey. tuna’s head comes off, and the chef flips the fish over to make the final cut. Mean- while, we’re called to the table: dinner EDIBLE INVENTORY will begin shortly. Hassun (traditional assorted Japanese snacks) 265 UAH A HARMONIOUS MIX Ebi Tempura First to appear on the table is a collec- (tiger prawns in crispy Japanese batter) 285 UAH tion of traditional Japanese appetisers. Hon Maguro Assorted (sashimi, sushi, Spanish bluefin rolls) 1 650 UAH What unites octopus, mussels, samosas, Caramel Purin and pickles? Although the selection is (Japanese vanilla milk cream pudding) 165 UAH TOTAL: 2 365 UAH

LEGENDARY TEMPURA THE WHAT’S ON CHECKLIST Tempura tiger prawns are one of the English Menu ü dishes I order by default when eating at English-speaking staff ü any Japanese restaurant in Kyiv. Here, Wi-fi ü the Ebi tempura is delightful, with tonsui Price $ $ $ $ sauce mixed with ground daikon and gin- WO Rating ger (another of chef Fujiwara’s culinary TUCC Rating inventions). A glass of cold white wine – Loiser Berg 2017 – is an excellent match. MAKE SURE YOU TRY Fujiwara Yoshi Roll Hotate Mango Roru TUNA PARADISE (with king crab meat) 485 UAH Drahomyrova 11 This is what I’ve been waiting for ever ¾ 11.00 – 23.00 Sushi Toro (Bluefin tuna fillet) 185 UAH since the spectacular tuna show earlier in For a group: Big Sushi Platter 1 980 UAH +380 44 360 0209 the evening. Fujiwara’s sashimi recipe is yoshi-fujiwara.ua

28 What’s On Issue 26 15 October - 15 November 2019 Olenka Martynyuk

AllTogether THE KYIV FOOD MARKET, A NEW FOODIE MECCA, HAS OPENED AT ARSENALNA TO BOOST A SLEEPY NEIGHBOURHOOD IN THE HEART OF THE CAPITAL. DOES IT DO THE JOB? WE TREKKED UP THE HILL TO FIND OUT

Those of you who have made the trip to get back for months. For busy people, the Odesa will surely know the seaside Food unification of so many cool places under Market, located in the building former- one roof is a brilliant idea. On paying for ly occupied by a bank close to the city’s my pasta, I get a pager with a number on main street of the city – Deribasivska. it that will beep as soon as my order is This idea has been very successful: unit- ready. It’s so convenient, with the wait at ing great restaurants under one roof the cashier nearly eliminated. boasting a well-curated selection of meals and a common seating area. Alex Cooper GLOBAL DELIGHTS is the man behind the idea in Odesa, and Adelle, with its Tel Aviv cuisine is also he has decided to expand geographically present, together with Nam’s Vietnamese by opening a similar attraction in Kyiv, kitchen, and Bao, of course, known for its together with Mikhail Beilin, owner of modern Chinese cuisine. There is pizza the La Famiglia restaurant group. from Liberty Diner; Varvar, with a separate area for its famous craft beer; while INDUSTRIAL CHIC delicious desserts from Milk Bar tempt The guys have chosen an industrial space, so. Green Chef is a newcomer, serving you upon entrance. The baked goods part of the Arsenal plant that has been healthy food and operating only in big from Good Wine’s Bakehouse is also en- abandoned for some time. They’ve revi- supermarket chains until recently. I love ticing, including their simple bread and talised it not just to ensure the building the names of their dishes. Buckwheat El- butter option (55 UAH). But that, and all maintains its structure but by making it lipse, for example – a mozzarella sand- the other goodies, will be on my wish list modern they’ve breathed new life into a wich in geometric form (158 UAH). for next time. which had so far been off the radars of I’m also rather fond of Mission Impos- Kyiv foodies. That is no longer the case – sible (229 UAH), which is a double meat these days, if you’re planning a weekend sandwich found at Cooper, an Odesa THE WHAT’S ON CHECKLIST visit, you’d better factor in queue time. addition. Rhythm is another newcom- English Menu ü When I pop in on a weekday, it is still er – for those looking for a caffeine boost English-speaking staff ü reasonably crowded with oyster lovers, you’ll find it here, with a really good flat Wi-fi ü people with stacks of takeaway boxes, white (55 UAH). Price $ $ $ tourists, expats, and more all wanting in WO Rating on this new gastronomic adventure. Not SIMPLE IS BEST to mention a TV crew shooting a piece The restaurant heavyweights are here on the new venue. too: Bigoli, known for its true Italian Kyiv Food Market food, even has a separate menu for moz- Moskovska 8 SPOILT FOR CHOICE zarella. On a previous visit, I tried Cacio ¾ Sunday to Thursday – 11.00 – 23.00 Taking up two floors of a spacious hall, e Pepe Pasta (128 UAH) – a minimalist ¾ Friday to Saturday – 11.00 – 02.00 there are approximately 30 food venues salt-and-pepper-only spaghetti – and en- +380 67 121 1319 here, some better known and some less joyed it so much that I have been trying to kyivfood.market

29 What’s In Focus

A BUSY MONTH Between getting the ladies together for WELDI, the Young Pro- fessionals gathering for their first meet up, and the whole of the business commnnity rounded up for the first welcome back of the season, the American Chamber of Commerce has been very busy! It was a month of networking between restaurants Prichal and San Paulo, and Art Area this past September with a great turnout at each. We here at WO look forward to all of the great upcoming events hosted by the ever-gracious ACC.

THE REBIRTH OF A LEGEND It’s been a long time coming - however, Radis- son Blu has revealed a new look at their Yaro- slaviv Val location, with a fully renovated 254 rooms, conference area, lobby, and lobby bar. To celebrate, friends of the Radisson Hotel Group were invited on 1 October to the grand re-opening of the very same hotel that first opened its doors 14 years ago. General Man- ager Jesper Henrikson says, “We wanted to integrate and reflect the local heritage, to show the connection with the Golden Gate, Yarosla- viv Val street, and the original historical building style.” It really is the rebirth of a legend.

30 What’s On Issue 26 15 October - 15 November 2019 ONLY FOR THOSE WITH ENTREPRENEURIAL DNA For the first time in Kyiv, the Freedom Business Summit welcomed entrepreneurs from across the country on 14 September. Hosting speakers from all over the world, including the US, Spain, Estonia, Bali, Lithuania, Hungary, and Roma- nia, this international summit focused on proven strategies and the latest ideas and insights on starting and running a remote business. Drawing a full house to Unit City, it was an event that left participants with much to think about.

TUNA PARTY If you’ve never been to one of the capital’s best Japanese restaurants for their regular tuna parties you’re missing out. On 11 September, Kyiv’s TUCC decided it was high time they got in on the goods and so members of the gastronomic crew gathered round the chopping block at Fujiwara Yoshi to watch a masterpiece in the making. It is certainly a sight when chef and restau- rateur Yoshihiro Fujiwara takes to carving the tuna, sometimes weigh- ing in at 150 kg! Needless to say it was a 5-star evening for all who were seated round the table.

31 What’s In Focus

DRESSING UP AND DOING GOOD On 5 October at Kyiv’s exclusive Equides Club, the Kyiv Lions Club took to their sharovary, vyshyvanky, and red boots, gearing up for an amazing night of charity with their annual Kozak Night. This elegant evening in Ukrainian tradition featured a number of talented musicians who were joined by more than 100 glittering guests, supporters, and sponsors of the event. Hosted by Pavlo Shylko and Elena Thwaites, the group, with members both local and international, managed to raise an impressive 110 000 UAH for their very worthwhile projects within Ukraine.

32 What’s On Issue 26 15 October - 15 November 2019 NO JACKET REQUIRED Out to enjoy one of the last evenings of the summer - you know, those long-forgotten, balmy nights where no jacket is required - expats and business professionals alike gathered to sip and socialise at the Radisson Blu’s Café 17 in Podil. Join the next event on 18 October as The Big Meet rounds out the Radisson hotels in Kyiv with the incredibly stylish new bar at their venue on Yaroslaviv Val.

33 Sector H Sector K Sector M Kyiv Paris (Sichovykh Striltsiv 10) Shlyapa (Antonovycha 14) Frat Social Club (Evgena Konovaltsya 36d) Like A Local Wine Bar (Sichovykh Striltsiv 26) Perfe (Antonovycha 14а) La Casa Del Habano (Klovskiy Descent 13) Reni (Sichovykh Striltsiv 60) Holiday Inn hotel (Antonovycha 79 ) Almondo Night Party Bar (Lesi Ukrainky Normal (Antonovycha 81 ) bulv. 34) Sector J Kyiv President (Hospitalna 12) Amber (Lesi Ukrainky bulvar 30а) Alphavito (Predslavynska 35d) Rus (Hospitalna 4) Kazbek (Lesi Ukrainky bulvar 30а) Lounge bar Mantry (V Vasylkivska 5 ) Belle Vue Belgian Beer Cafe (Saksahanskogo 7) Napule (Mechnykova 9) Lucky Pub (V Vasylkivska 13) Yabloko (Saksaganskoho 39/41) O' cafe (Mechnykova 9) Under Wonder (V Vasylkivska 21 ) Dos Amigos (Saksaganskoho 51/87) Si (Mechnykova 9) Tolstoy (V Vasylkivska 19) Sam’s Steak House (Zhylyanska 37) Gorchitsa (Pylypa Orlyka 6) Bierstube (V Vasylkivska 20 ) Steak House Goodman (Zhylyanska 75) Mama Manana (V Vasylkivska 44) Sector N Alfaro (V Vasylkivska 49) Sector L LKafa (Chokolivskiy bulvar 11) Druzi Cafe (V Vasylkivska 49а) Guramma (Dniprovskiy Descent 1) Cosmopolite hotel (Vadyma Getmana 6) Rooster Grill Bar (V Vasylkivska 68) Park Cafe (Mazepy 11а) IQ Hotel (Vadyma Getmana 6) Manu (V Vasylkivska 94) Shooters (Moskovska 22) Amster Damster (V Vasylkivska 111/113) Veranda na Dnipri (Naberezhne shose 11a) 17.804 (V Vasylkivska 82)

Sector E Sector G Fairmont (Naberezhno Hreshchatytska 1а) Outpub (Dmytrivska 18/24) Druzi Café (Andriivskiy Descent 2d) Savazh Closer cafe (Nyzhnioyurkivska 31) Belmondo (Hogolivska 17) Kanapa (Andriivskiy Descent 19а) Barcode (Nyzhniy Val 17) Varva (Saksaganskoho 108/16) Kanapka Bar (Andriivskiy Descent 30а) Call Me Cacao (Nyzhniy Val 35) Caribbean Club (Symona Petlyury 4) De Pari (Andriivskiy Descent 34v) To be (Verhniy Val 2а) La Vaca Tapas (Symona Petlyury 6) Radisson Blu (Bratska 17/19 ) Habana (Verhniy Val 24) Ibis (Polzunova 6) Piano Café (Kontraktova Ploshcha 4) Lubchik (Vozdvyzhenska 10b) Freedom Club Event Hall (Kyrylivska 134) Ohota Na Ovets (Vozdvyzhenska 10b) Sector F Lumberjack barbershop (Nyzhniy Val 15) RybaLove (Vozdvyzhenska 21-23) O’Brien’s Irish Pub (Myhailivska 17) Bar Dom (Sagaidachnoho 10/5а) Vozdnyzhensky (Vozdvyzhenska 60) Hyatt (Tarasovoyi 5) Riviera (Sagaidachnoho 15) Deficit (Yaroslaviv Val 9) Pauz Cafe (Sofiivska 5) Impresa (Sagaidachnoho 21) Radisson (Yaroslaviv Val 24) Whisky Corner (Sofiivska 16/16) Tike (Sagaidachnoho 31) Paul (Yaroslaviv Val 26) Knyazhyi Grad (V Zhytomyrska 2) Tarantino Grill & Wine Bar Golden Gate (Yaroslaviv Val 33v) InterContinental (V Zhytomyrska 2а) (Sagaidachnoho 35) Ptaha (Ihorivska 5) Urban Grill (Horyva 25/12) Art of Shkolnyi the Map: Dmytro Where to find What’s On

Sector A Sector B Sector C Smorrebrod (Horodetskogo 4) Biancoro (Baseina 4) Ikra (Honchara 67) Vatra (Horodetskogo 4b) Porto Franco (Baseina 4 ) Naturlikh (Hmelnytskoho 3) Fellini (Horodetskogo 5) Traktyr na Baseyniy (Baseina 2) Ink (Hmelnytskoho 17/52 ) Chaikof (Horodetskogo 8/4) Beer House (Baseina 2а) 7 pyatnyc’ (Hmelnytskoho 29/2) Public Cafe (Khreshchatyk 1/2) Bar Sklad (Besarabska Ploshcha 2) Opera (Hmelnytskoho 53 ) Dnipro (Khreshchatyk 1/2) Aloft (Esplanadna 17) City Hotel (Hmelnytskoho 56) Chiken Kyiv (Khreshchatyk 15) Babai Bar (Pushkinska 2) Pantagruel (Lysenka 1) Mocco (Khreshchatyk 15) Gastro Bar #7 (Pushkinska 9а) Spotykach (Volodymyrska 16) Dom Kofe Passage (Khreshchatyk 15) Ko & Ko bar (Pushkinska 11) Fish market (Volodymyrska 24a) La Forchetta (Khreshchatyk 16) ProRock (Pushkinska 32) Lemonade (Volodymyrska 29) Bochka (Khreshchatyk 19а) Antwerpen (Pushkinska 38) Le Cosmopolite (Volodymyrska 47) Moon Lounge Bar (Khreshchatyk 24) Podshoffe Brasserie (Pushkinska 45/2) Barkas (Volodymyrska 49а) Shato (Khreshchatyk 24a) Terracotta (Shevchenka bulv. 57/29) Golden Gate (Zolotovoritska 15) Hangover (Hrushevskogo 3) Premiere Palace (Shevchenka bulv. 57/29) Pache (Kostyolna 3) Hinkalli (Shota Rustaveli 4) Sector D Tres Francais (Kostyolna 3) Beef (Shota Rustaveli 11) Hedonist bar & kitchen (Antonovycha 4) Druzi Cafe (Prorizna 3/5) Alchemist Bar (Shota Rustaveli 12) Ibis (Shevchenka bulv. 25) Baraban (Prorizna 4а) De Bosch (Shota Rustaveli 12) Hilton (Shevchenka bulv. 30) Sunduk Pub (Prorizna 22) Maral bar (Shota Rustaveli 15а) Chachapuri (Shevchenka bulv. 36а) Senator Maidan (Shevchenka ave 8v) Cafe L’ etage (Shota Rustaveli 16) Mario (Lva Tolstoho 14) Like A Local Wine Bar (Lva Tolstoho 5) Dusha Espresso Bar (Lva Tolstoho 39) Velur (Lva Tolstoho 41)