Organs in Poland A Brief Glimpse of Organs and Churches in Warsaw, Białystok, Białowieza, and Kraków

By Marijim Thoene 1. Józef Kotowicz recital announcement

f Józef Kotowicz asks you if you would an interior world. We heard organist Jan 4′ Principal Virgin dates from 1671. The present like to play in his recital series in Brögger from Germany. 4′ Rohrflöte organ was built between 1751–1752, I 2 2 ⁄3′ Sesquialter II Białystok, Poland, say “YES!” I did say The next morning we exited the front 2′ Principal and includes some elements from the “Yes” and in July of 2012 had an expe- door of the dormitory and turned right 2′ Blockflöte older organ. 1 rience of a lifetime; but I confess I had on Krakowskie Przedmiescie and found 1 ⁄3′ Quint I was able to meet Richard Onopa, some sleepless nights wondering what St. Anne’s Church just outside the 1′ Scharff III who has been organist of the Baroque 8′ Krummhorn was in store for me, especially knowing Castle Square. In front of the church was Glockenspiel Chapel of the Assumption for 57 years that the large organ in the Basilica Cathe- a poster advertising the upcoming recit- (see photo 4). His playing demonstrated dral of Our Lady of the Assumption was als, one of which was by Józef Kotowicz the beauty and clarity of the flute stops an early 20th-century tubular pneumatic (see photo 1). How like my host, not to Pedal C–f′ and the power of the full organ—an 16′ Principalbass with three general pistons. Having played have told me he would be playing here. 16′ Subbass elegant sound for a royal space, where weekly on a cumbersome and psychotic I was beginning to see evidence of his 8′ Octavbass many of the kings of Poland worshipped, 1923 tubular-pneumatic Möller with whirlwind schedule as a recitalist. He 8′ Gedacktbass including the last king of Poland, 4′ Choralbass three undependable general pistons and later told me he plays between 12 to 2 Stanislaw II August, who ruled from 2 ⁄3′ Mixtur IV a cipher that habitually showed up unan- 15 concerts between May and Septem- 16′ Posaune 1764–1795. The pedalboard consists of nounced and unstoppable, I feared the ber, throughout Poland, Italy, Finland, 8′ Trompete an octave (see photo 5) and the stops are worst. However, my fears were allayed Sweden, and Norway. As I stood in the literally projecting from the wall above when I heard Józef Kotowicz’s CD of the entrance of the church I was touched at Couplers the keyboard. organ in the basilica. And who would not witnessing people kissing the feet of the II/I I/P II/P want to play in Białowieza’s St. Teresa statue of the crucified Christ as they left Chapel of the Assumption, Białystok Church on the edge of the oldest prime- the church. Here I began to see part of On July 11, Józef—who had just played Manual val forest in Europe and in Białystok’s St. the history unfold of a country of which two recitals in southeastern Poland at the 8′ Pryncypal Casimir Church, where the sound of the I knew very little. St. Anne’s Church Cathedral in Lubaczow and a church in 16′ organ, also heard on Kotowicz’s CD, was was built in the 15th century but was Krasnobrod—and his lovely wife Ewa 8′ Major flet kaleidoscopic in color and bloomed in destroyed in the 1650s by Swedish and picked us up and drove us to Białystok. 8′ Amabilis 4′ Spielflet the huge sacred space? German troops. It was rebuilt between In the old city square the towering 2′ Oktawa I write about my experience in hopes 1740–60 and the present Neoclassical spires of the Cathedral Basilica of the 8′ that readers will take heart in know- façade was built in 1788. During World Assumption of the Blessed Virgin 4′ Oktawa ing that there are cities, e.g., Warsaw, War II the roof was destroyed by the Mary dominate the skyline; to the left, 4′ Minor flet 2′ Piccolo Białystok, Białowieza, and Kraków, Nazis. The organ was built by Pflüger connected to the Cathedral Basilica, 1 3 ⁄5′ Tercja 2 where people fill the churches to wor- Orgelbau in 1992. The organ case (see is a small Baroque chapel, bearing the 2 ⁄3′ Kwinta ship and listen to organ music; they photo 2 ) and the interior of the church same name, with an intriguing history V Mixtura are as passionate to listen as we are to are in Baroque style. (see photo 3). The history of these III Cymbel play. From my bird’s eye view, I saw a The rich colors of this organ are appar- two buildings reflects the remarkable Pedal coupler F–f reverence for organ music that was both ent on YouTube: Diane Bish performs determination, ingenuity, and spiritual inspiring and humbling. I also wish to not the Sortie by Denis Bédard (http://www. commitment of the people of Białystok. Upon entering the Cathedral Basilica only describe the richness and beauty of youtube.com/watch?v=8KGb3BZItKU). Construction of the chapel was begun of the Assumption of Our Lady, one the instruments I saw and heard, but Here is the specification of the organ: in 1611; it was consecrated in 1626 and feels transported in time by the soaring, also to describe a kind of miraculous later rebuilt in 1751. In the 19th century graceful arches and the large sober faces phenomenon, much like the rebirth of St. Anne’s Church, Warsaw the congregation wished to expand the of the church patriarchs in the stained- the phoenix, in the city of Białystok. Pflüger Orgelbau, 1992 church. Since at that time the land was glass windows. Here I first encountered The following is a brief account of part of Russia, the people had to get the image of the Polish saint and mystic, Manual I (Hauptwerk) C–a′′′ organs experienced during my journey. 16′ Gedackt permission from the Czar to rebuild the Saint Faustina (d. 1938), and the paint- After settling in our dorm room at the 8′ Principal church. After many years of saying “No,” ing of Christ that she inspired. University of Warsaw, my husband Jess 8′ Gamba the Czar relented only on the condition The construction of the organ was and I walked out of the front gate, turned 8′ Voce umana that no new church would be built; only begun in 1903 by Józef Rudowicz and 8′ Spitzflöte left on Krakowskie Przedmiescie, and 4′ Octav the present one could be enlarged. The completed in 1908 by Antoni Szyman- discovered the Warsaw Procathedral 4′ Flöte neo-Gothic Cathedral Basilica was built ski of Warsaw. The stoplist reflects 2 Seminar Church, where there would 2 ⁄3′ Quint as an addition to the chapel. Its construc- the romantic style of early twentieth- 2′ Superoctav be an organ recital that night, July 10, at 1 tion lasted up to World War I. Unlike century instruments. 1 ⁄3′ IV 7 pm. By happy chance we were about 8′ Cornett V most of the city of Białystok, the build- to hear the second recital of the Inter- 8′ Trompete ings were not destroyed by the bombings national Bach Organ Festival. When we in World War II. arrived at 7:05 all the programs were Manual II (Positive) C–a′′′ The earliest document that mentions 8′ Gemshorn gone and the church was packed. People 8′ Holzgedackt the existence of an organ in the Baroque listened in rapt attention, caught up in chapel of the Assumption of the Blessed

2. Organ case, St. Anne’s Church, Warsaw 6. Console of organ, Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of 3. Baroque Chapel, Cathedral, Białystok St. Mary, Białystok

22 n THE DIAPASON n JUNE 2013 WWW.THEDIAPASON.COM Every stop of the organ, from flute to Espanordica by Stefan Lindblad. trumpet, spoke with great clarity and The specifications: brightness. The specification: St. Casimir Church, Białystok Church of St. Theresa, Białowieza Wolfgang Scherpf, 1965–77 Walcker Hauptwerk (C–g3) I. Manuał Hauptwerk (II Manual C–g′′′) 16′ Principal 8′ Prinzipal 16′ Quintade 8′ Gemshorn 8′ Principal 4′ Oktave 8′ Holzprincipal 2′ Schwiegel 8′ Weitgedackt 1 4′ Principal 4’ 7. Music rack at Church of St. Theresa in Białowieza 1 ⁄3′ Mixtur IV–VI 8′ Trompete 4′ Oktave 4′ Gedackt 1 Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of Rückpositiv (I Manual C–g′′′) 5 ⁄3′ Quinte The pedalboard is straight and flat. 1 Our Lady, Białystok 8′ Holzgedackt 3 ⁄5′ Terz Three general pistons are set by push- 2 2 ⁄3′ Quinte Rudowicz and Szymanski, 1903–08 4′ Nachthorn ing in a red, blue, or green button and 2′ Prinzipal 2′ Oktave 1 pulling out red, blue, or green toggles Sesquialtera II 1 ⁄3′ Mixture VI–VIII 1 I Manual 1 ⁄2′ Zimbel IV ′ (see photo 6). Fortunately for me, there 1 ⁄3′ Quinte 16 Pryncypal 1′ Scharff 8′ Kornett V 16′ Bourdon was an “organ master” or “organ main- 8′ Horizontalbombarde 8′ Pryncypal tenance” person there the whole time I Pedal (C–f′′′) 16′ Horizontalbombarde 8′ Gamba practiced and was helpful when I had 4′ Horizontalclarine ′ 16′ Subass 8 Gemshorn questions. The organ has a command- 8′ Oktavbass 8′ Salicet Bombardwerk (C–g3) ′ ing and dramatic presence as well as a 4′ Pommer 8 Holflet 16′ Posaune IV. Manuał 8′ Kwintaton rich palette of delicate, subtle colors. 16′ Bourdon ′ 8 Gedekt Organists know a cipher can happen, Couplers: II/I, I/P, II/P 8′ Principal 4′ Rurflet and try to believe that when it does, it 8′ Flöte harmonique 4′ Flet kryty 8′ Salicional 4′ Wiolina isn’t the end of the world. It did hap- 4′ Oktave 4′ Oktawa pen on the first piece on the first chord The church was near not only an 4′ Spillpfeife 1 1 ⁄3′ Kwinta of Bach’s St. Anne Prelude. I played ancient forest, but also the Czar of 4′ Fugara 2 2′ Oktawa 2 ⁄3′ Nasat 2 the entire prelude and fugue with the Russia’s private railroad and hunting 2 ⁄3′ Nasard 2′ Flageolett cipher roaring right along, following lodge. The latter has been converted to 3 1′ Superokt 1 ⁄5′ Terz 1 Mixtura II–IV Marilyn Mason’s mantra, “Keep going, a gourmet restaurant. The priest of St. 1 ⁄7′ Septime 8 8′ Trompet no matter what!” Not one, but four Theresa, Fr. Bogdan Poplawski, took ⁄9′ None 2 “organ masters” came to my rescue, us to lunch here—what an amazing place 2 ⁄3′ Mixtur VI II Manual 16′ Bombarde 16′ Fugara taking off the back of the of genteel elegance steeped in history. 8′ Trompete 8′ Pryncypal while I played. The head “organ master” St. Casimir (Kazimierz) Church, 4′ Clairon 8′ Sylwestryna said, “I beg of you, do not play on the close to Białystok’s central business Röhrenglocken (A–e1) 8′ Flet kryty Tremulant 8′ Koncert flet Great.” I followed his advice and there district, is a relatively new church, built 8′ Traw. Flet were no more mechanical problems. (I in 1981. Its namesake is St. Casimir Positivwerk (C–g3) II. Manuał 8′ Dolce was later told that this was the first time Jagiellon (1458–1484), the patron saint 8′ Principal 4′ Róg nocny a cipher had occurred since the concert of Poland, whose feast day is March 4. 8′ Quintade 4′ Oktawa series began in 1996. It was Friday the It is modern in design, with high ceil- 8′ Spitzgedackt 2′ Flautino 4′ Singend Oktav 1′ Pikolo 13th!) At the end I ran down the spiral ings, and flooded with light. By the altar 4′ Rohrflöte 2 2 ⁄3′ Kint flet staircase and thanked an appreciative are contemporary luminous paintings 2′ Kleinprincipal Tercja II audience. Later that evening we were in the style of medieval Byzantine art. 2′ Blockflöte 1′ Flageolet treated to a delicious dinner by the rec- The five-manual German organ was 1′ Kleinoktave Sesquialt. II 4′ Echokornett IV Cymbel III tor, Henryk Zukowski. built by the Wolfgang Scherpf Com- 1′ Scharf V–VI Kornet V The “village” church of St. Theresa pany in 1965–77 for the cathedral in 16′ Dulzian 8′ Klarnet in Białowieza, built in 1927, is on the Speyer and was moved to St. Casimir 8′ Trompete edge of one of the oldest primeval for- Church in 2009. It is the seventh largest 8′ Krumhorn III Manual Tremulant 8′ Pryncypal ests of Europe. The church is decorated in Poland. Józef Kotowicz’s 8′ Bourdon with branches and horns, reminders of performance on YouTube offers a great Oberwerk (C–g3) V. Manuał 8′ Bachflet the forest outside. Here I discovered opportunity to see the interior of the 8′ Rohrquintade 8′ Szpicflet another Polish saint, Maximilian Kolbe, church and hear the organ: http://www. 8′ Lieblich Gedackt 8′ Aeolina 4′ Principal 8′ Vox coel. whose photograph was hanging on the youtube.com/watch?v=ljSPCnAfeKg. 4′ Koppelflöte 4′ Flet harm. wall. A Polish Franciscan friar, remem- Kotowicz performs Letanias z cyklu 2′ Oktave 4′ Prestant bered for volunteering to die in place of 4′ Fugara 2′ Flageolet a stranger in the Auschwitz concentra- 1′ Róg nocny tion camp during World War II, he was 3 1 ⁄5′ Tercja canonized in 1982 by Pope John Paul II, 1 1 ⁄3′ Superkwint who described him as the “Patron saint Harm. Aeter. III Scharf III of our difficult century.” 8′ Obój When I arrived on Saturday night to practice, I found the music rack holding Pedal all the material for the Mass in the morn- 16′ Kontrabas 16′ Pryncypbas ing (see photo 7). I watched the parish- 16′ Wiolonbas ioners arrive on foot and on bicycles, and 16′ Subbas leave their faithful dogs outside. Many 8′ Oktawbas of the parishioners stayed for my noon- 8′ Wiolina 8′ Fletbas time recital. The two-manual, 17-rank 4′ Oktawa Walcker tracker well suited this church. 1 5 ⁄3′ Kwinta 4′ Flet Mikstura IV 16′ Puzonbas

4. Richard Onopa, organist in Ba- 5. Pedalboard of organ in Baroque Cha- roque Chapel, Assumption of St. Mary, pel, Assumption of St. Mary, Białystok Białystok

WWW.THEDIAPASON.COM THE DIAPASON n JUNE 2013 n 23 Organs in Poland

9. Professor Andrzej Chorosinski at the console in the new Opera House, Białystok

11. Organ in recital hall in the Academy of Music, Kraków 8. Organ case, St. Roch Church, Białystok 4′ Prestant 1 1 ⁄4′ Sifflöte 4′ Flet rurkowy 1′ Oktävlein 2′ Piccolo 1 ⁄3′ (Terz-)Quintzimbel III Sesquialtera II 8′ Müsette Mixtura IV–VI 4′ Singend 16′ Fagot Tremulant 8′ Obój 8′ Schwellwerk (C–g3) III. Manuał 8′ Trompeta magna 16′ Pommer 10. Detail of organ console in new Opera Manuał IV 8′ Principal House 12. Ceiling of stars in the Cathedral of 8′ Flötgedackt 8′ Flet otwarty the Assumption of the Virgin in Kraków 8′ Salicional 8′ Gedackt 8′ Schwebung weekend, as well as Masses in the eve- 8′ Salicionał 8′ Weidenpfeife ning throughout the week. The parish 4′ Szpicflet century, World War II, and the 50-year 4′ Oktave borders have since been changed and 4′ Pryncypał Communist regime, had a devastating 4′ Rohrpfeif 2′ Oktawa 2 the congregation is smaller. 1 effect on the rich musical tradition of 2 ⁄3′ Sesquialter II 1 ⁄3′ Kwinta 2′ Hohlflöte The organ and pipes were discovered 8′ Regał the church and on . A 2′ Mixtur VI at the end of World War II in 1945 in tradition, whose beginning is apparent 1 Pedał ⁄2′ Terzzimbel III an abandoned boxcar in the train sta- in the early organ tablatures of Kraków 16′ Fagott 32′ Violonbas 8′ Oboe tion in Białystok. The legend is that the 16′ Pryncypał ca. 1548, the Gdánsk tablature of 1591, 4′ Schalmey workers from the train station asked the 16′ Subbas and the tablature of Johannes of Lublin, Tremulant priest if he wanted an organ and so for a 16′ Violon was silenced. I could not fail to see the couple of cases of beer it was delivered 8′ Bourdon reminders of the struggle for life itself in Pedalwerk (C–f1) 8′ Oktawbas 32′ Contra-Principal to the church. The plate on the organ 8′ Cello Białystok when I saw the single railway 16′ Principalbass reads “Schlag und Sohn, 1945.” The 4′ Chorałbas car beside the Museum of the Polish 16′ Untersatz general pistons are set by a toggle sys- Mixtura IV Army, a grim reminder that one million 16′ Rohrflötenbass tem similar to the one in the cathedral. 16′ Puzon Poles were transported to Russia (Sibe- 8′ Großoktave 16′ Fagot 8′ Offenflöte The organ case creates the illusion that 8′ Trompet harm. ria and Kazakhstan). Many of them died 4′ Choralbass all the pipes are of equal length (see 8′ Trompeta magna during the journey. Most of them did 4′ Hohlpfeif photo 8, organ case, St. Roch Church). not return to Poland at all. I learned that 2′ Waldflöte The organ has a great presence in this The organ console is red and green, organ building in Poland came to a halt 1′ Blockflöte 1 cavernous space. truly one of the most exuberant organ during the Communist regime, and that 5 ⁄3′ Bassquint 4′ Hintersatz IV–VII We were privileged to have a tour consoles I’ve ever seen (see photo 10). many churches had no organs because 32′ Contra-Posaune of the stunning new Opera House in We also toured I. J. Paderewski there was no money. During these years 16′ Posaune Białystok scheduled to open this fall. School of Music, where Józef has the rich musical tradition of the church 8′ Trompete 4′ Clarine We were fortunate to get to hear the been on the faculty for twenty years. He was silent, but during this bleak time 2′ Zinkenbass new 64-rank organ, built by the Polish recently acquired a beautiful tracker for their faith grew stronger and their love builder Zych Zaklady Company, played the recital hall; built in 1976 in Denmark of organ music did not die. The suspended made by Professor Andrzej Chorosinski by Troels Krohn, it is reminiscent of the Since the fall of Communism in 1989, the touch light and sensitive, and infinite of the Chopin Conservatory in Warsaw, typical North German Baroque organ. churches started looking for organs they levels of memory made it a joy to play. who was there to inspect the organ and The specifications: could afford and found they could pur- Fr. Wojciech Lazewski, the rector of rehearse for his inaugural recital (see chase instruments from Germany, where the parish, spoke to the audience and photo 9). The specification of the organ: Paderewski School of Music, Białystok many churches were closing. Currently introduced each organ piece, and after Troels Krohn, 1976 Poland has a growing economy in Europe the recital we were invited to an elegant Opera House, Białystok and they are building new churches— dinner in the rectory. Zych Zaklady Organowe, 2012 Positive big churches. It has been Józef’s mission 8′ Salicional What a heart-warming experience to to help churches find organs and to make Manuał I 8′ Gedacht play three recitals in Poland in churches 16′ Gedackt 4′ Principal organ music accessible. He began by 2 filled with people who appreciate organ 8′ Pryncypał 2 ⁄3′ Quint creating a concert series in the cathedral music, who gave me such a warm wel- 8′ Bourdon 2′ Octave in 1996, which has grown to include 3 come, and who thanked me, in Eng- 8′ Flute harm. 1 ⁄5′ Terts other venues. This summer he organized lish(!), for playing for them. I could only 8′ V da Gamba 19 recitals in five different churches in 8′ Kwintadena Swell say hello (dzien dobry) and thank you 4′ Oktawa 8′ Gemshorn Hajnowka, Białystok, and Białowieza, (dziekuje) in Polish. It was gratifying to 4′ Flet 8′ Quitaton and invited 12 organists from Poland, 4′ Traversflet have the priest at each church talk to the 2 4′ Rohrflute Norway, and America. 2 ⁄3′ Kwinta audience and describe the music before 2′ Superoktawa 2′ Panflojte Józef pointed out that crucial to the I played, and as if it weren’t enough to Kornet V 8′ Oboe rebuilding of the rich musical tradition have the privilege to play, to be invited to Mixtura IV–V of the church has been the attitude of the a feast afterwards. Józef arranged for our 8′ Trompeta magna Pedal clergy toward music and having church 8′ Trompet 16′ Subbas food, lodgings, and transportation, and 4′ Clairon Manual to Pedal couplers music classes in the schools. When provided me with one of his students, Józef finished his studies in 1991 he was Rafal Pluszczewicz, who explained the Manuał II the first organist in the diocese; now vagaries of setting the general pistons 8′ Pryncypał Last on the tour was Santa Ecclesia, there are thirteen. Now there are two 8′ Salicet and turned pages for me. 8′ Flet rurkowy which has a 39-rank, three-manual Ger- outstanding organ builders in Poland: After playing the recitals, I had the 8′ Gemshorn man tracker built by Friedrich Weis- Zych Zaklady Organbilders: organy@ luxury of being a tourist in Białystok, 4′ Fugara senborn, again mirroring the disposition zych.com, and Andrzej Kaminski Organ- 4′ Pryncypał and Józef showed us some of the most 2 of the North German Baroque instru- bilders: [email protected]. 2 ⁄3′ Nasard interesting organs in the city. First on 2′ Oktawa ment. The sound of organ is lush as well On July 17 we bid our farewells to 3 the tour was the organ at the massive 1 ⁄5′ Tercja as brilliant; however, the key action is Józef and Ewa in Białystok and took St. Roch Church. The architecture is Cymbel III very heavy. the train to Kraków, where Józef had avant-garde even by today’s standards, 8′ Trompeta magna In the Church of St. Jadwiga arranged for us to stay in the Academy even though it was built between 1927– 8′ Klarnet in Białystok there is a 57-rank organ of Music. The medieval city of Kraków 46. It is now undergoing restoration. It Manuał III from the Philharmonic concert hall in keeps its history alive by the daily per- used to be one of the largest parishes in 16′ Gedackt Salzburg. The organ was built by E. F. formance of trumpet music played from Białystok, with 40,000 people attending 8′ Pryncypał skrzyp Walcker & Co. in 1970. The church had one of the windows of the tallest tower of 8′ Flet podwójny Mass each weekend. Józef was organ- 8′ Fugara no organ before acquiring this one. the Gothic Cathedral of St. Mary. During ist there for two years, beginning in 8′ Aeolina Tragic epochs in Poland, including the 13th and 14th-centuries a trumpeter 1991, and played eleven Masses on the 8′ Vox coelestis the loss of independence in the 19th played at dawn and at dusk to signal the

24 n THE DIAPASON n JUNE 2013 WWW.THEDIAPASON.COM 16. 17th-century portative organ, National Museum of Kraków

15. Organ in rear gallery, Cathedral of the Assumption, Kraków

18. Wood carving of portative organ, Wawel Cathedral, Kraków

14. Fresco to the left of the altar, Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin, Kraków

8′ Gedackt 4′ Octava 4′ Rohrfl oete 2′ Superoctava 17. Portative organ in a 2′ Mixtura IV French 16th-century Book 8′ Trompete of Hours, Jagiellonian Library, Kraków II. Manual Positiv C– a3 8′ Flûte harmonique 4′ Flûte octaviante 2 2 ⁄3′ Nasard 2′ Flûte traversiére 3 1 ⁄5′ Terz eum in chordis et organo (Praise him bishops.” The carved image of a porta- 1 13. Organ to the left of the altar, Cathedral 1 ⁄3′ Larigot with strings and organ) (see photo 13). tive is in the Swietokryska Chapel near of the Assumption of the Virgin, Kraków 8′ Cromorne To the right of the altarpiece is a fresco the front entrance of the cathedral Tremulant of an angel playing the organetto accom- (see photo 18). Here an angel organist opening of the city gates. He also kept III. Manual Schwellwerk C–a3 panied by the text, Super omnes speciosa accompanies the crucifi xion in a scene watch for fi res or enemy invaders and 8′ Rohrfl oete (Lovely beyond all others), one of the that allows the viewer to step into would sound the alarm with a bugle call. 8′ Gambe lines from the Marian hymn, Ave Regina another dimension of time and space. 8′ Vox coelestis Today a short bugle call is played on 4′ Fugara Caelorum (see photo 14.) A positive the hour beginning at 8 am and ending 2′ Flachfl oete organ (not pictured) contains seven stops Conclusion 2 at 11 pm from one of the towers of the 2 ⁄3′ Mixtura III and was 1898 built by Tomasz Falla. The The organs and images of organs I saw cathedral. The plaintive bugle call is a 8′ Trompette harmonique big organ in the rear gallery (see photo in Warsaw, Białystok, Białowieza, and 8′ Oboe melody that ends abruptly. This live per- Tremulant 15) dates back to 1908 and has been Kraków represent only a tiny amount of formance is an hourly remembrance and rebuilt many times. The last general what exists in Poland. I am grateful I had commemoration of a heroic trumpeter Pedal C–f′ rebuilding took place in 1987–1989 by the opportunity to savor the sounds and who warned the city of invading Tatars 16′ Subbass organbuilder Wlodzimierz Truszczynski. sights of these instruments, experience 8′ Principalbass in 1240 and who died from the enemy’s 8′ Floetenbass Now the organ has mechanical action such kindness, and witness the apprecia- arrow while sounding the alarm. 4′ Choralbass and 56 stops. For specifi cations of the tion and love for organ music on many The Old Town of Kraków is fi lled with 16′ Posaune three organs, see http://organy.pingwin. faces. I have great admiration for the sounds, from horse-drawn carriages cir- 8′ Trompete waw.pl/index.php?f=kr_mariacki.htm. composers, performers, and audiences cling around the historic market place, On the second fl oor of the National who have survived one of the darkest to a band of accordion players playing I heard an organ recital in the Museum of Kraków is a 17th-century times in history and are dedicated to Bach’s Toccata in D Minor on the steps Basilica of St. Florian’s played by portative organ (see photo 16). This preserving and building upon their rich of the cathedral. Equally prominent Marek Stefanski, and accompanied portative organ has one manual of tradition of organ music. Exciting new are reminders of the pipe organ, which by Barbara Swiatek-Zelazna, fl autist. three octaves and two bellows. The has been composed by showed itself to be part of the fabric of Again, I was aware that the audience sat pipes are made of lead and beech, and contemporary Polish composers, such life, past and present. These fi ndings— without moving, completely absorbed the keys are made of birch. It is from as Marian Sawa (1937–2005), Tadeusz whether in a fresco, a Book of Hours, a in the music. This recital was part of the Parish Church at Stary Sacz and Paciorkiewicz (1916–1998), Romuald sculpture, a choir loft, or a recital hall— the music festival, the third in a series was given to the museum by Stanislaw Twardowski (b. 1930), Henryk Mikolaj were dazzling to the eye and imagination of seven organ recitals, sponsored by Tomkowicz in 1934. Górecki (1933–2010), and Wojciech and underscore its importance in provid- the Academy of Music and Center of In the Jagiellonian Library I found Kilar (b. 1932). Beautiful new organs are ing music that provides solace and lifts Culture of Kraków. one image of a portative organ in a once again being built by Polish builders, the human spirit. I found these images The 14th-century Cathedral of the French 16th-century Book of Hours including Zych Zaklady, Andrzej Kamin- in diverse places, ranging from the Assumption of St. Mary in the Old (see photo 17). Here, along with other ski, and others. The organ music fi lling National Museum to Wawel Cathedral, Town is called the “people’s cathedral” musicians, an angel organist celebrates the churches and the people who listen from the Jagiellonian University Library because it was built by the people, as the coronation of the Virgin. It is ironic signify that in Poland, and especially in to the Academy of Music. opposed to the Cathedral at Wawel that the pipes of the organetto are all Białystok, “the music cannot be stopped” From my bird’s eye view, organ music Castle that was built by royalty. It con- the same length, and that several of the —in fact, like the phoenix, it is soaring. n appears to be alive and well in Kraków. I tains three organs and a fresco of an organ cases mentioned earlier give the heard a new organ student practicing in organetto. The dramatic organ cases and illusion that all the pipes are the same Marijim Thoene received a D.M.A. in or- the recital hall in the Academy of Music fresco of an angel playing the organetto length. Here and in the last image gan performance/church music from the Uni- (see photo 11). This three-manual tracker complement the magnifi cent altar piece shown, the portative organ is played by versity of Michigan in 1984. She is an active organ was built by the Karl Schuke Com- of Assumption of the Virgin (the Viet an angel in the macrocosm of heaven. recitalist and director of music at St. John Lu- pany of Berlin. The disposition: Stoss Altar) and the Gothic cobalt blue The last organ shown is from Wawel theran Church in Dundee, Michigan. Her two vaulted ceiling sprinkled with shimmer- Cathedral, the Archcathedral of Saints CDs, Mystics and Spirits and Wind Song are available through Raven Recordings. She is Academy of Music, Kraków ing gold stars (see photo 12). To the left Stanislaus and Wenceslaus, which is, a frequent presenter at medieval conferences Karl Schuke of the altarpiece is an organ of 12 stops, according to Frommer’s guide book, on the topic of the image of the pipe organ in I. Manual Hauptwerk C–a3 built by Kazimierz Zebrowski in 1912. the “most grandiose church in Poland, medieval manuscripts. 16′ Bordun At the base of the organ case is an angel and a necropolis of Polish kings, rulers, 8′ Principal bearing music with this text: Laudate most outstanding poets and Kraków’s Photo credit: Marijim Thoene

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