Behind the Scenes
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 235 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – and the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. OUR READERS Claudia Low, David Hogan Jr, Narelle Mc- Murtrie, Chris Bauer, Eddy Chew, Adly Rizal, Many thanks to the travellers who used the Karl Steinberg and Chris Ong. Also thanks last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, to Jeffrey Lim, Pakhruddin Sulaiman, Ng useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Seksan, Noraza Yusof, Charles Steven, Paula Tammy Bare, Ronald Beers, Jonathan Boyle, Conway and Grey Yeoh for assistance with Pepe Clemente, Mat Mannion, Carolyn Oliff, research. Michelle Reiner, Jennifer Segail, Christopher Smith, Gemma Stewart, Nigel Teasdale, Stefan ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Tuchila Cover photograph: Thean Hou Temple, Gavin Hellier/AWL. AUTHOR THANKS Simon Richmond Terima kasih to Laura at Lonely Planet HQ for commissioning me, and to my trusted friends in Malaysia, including Alex Yong, Nani Kahar, Peter Kiernan, Andrew Sebastian, THIS BOOK Commissioning Editor Assisting Editors Katie Laura Stansfeld Connolly, Kate Evans, This 3rd edition of Lonely Charlotte Orr Planet’s Kuala Lumpur, Coordinating Editors Melaka & Penang guidebook Carolyn Boicos, Erin Assisting Cartographer was researched and written Richards Rachel Imeson by Simon Richmond, who Senior Cartographers Cover Research Naomi Parker BEHIND THE SCENES also coauthored the previous Julie Sheridan, Diana Language Content Branislava edition with Celeste Brash. Von Holdt The 1st edition was written Vladisavljevic by Joe Bindloss and Celeste Book Designer Jessica Rose Brash. This guidebook was Managing Editors Sasha Thanks to Anita Banh, Ryan commissioned in Lonely Baskett, Bruce Evans Evans, Larissa Frost, Gene- Planet’s Melbourne office, Senior Editor Catherine sys India, Jouve India, Indra and produced by the Kilfoyle, Wayne Murphy, Chad following: Naghten Parkhill, Trent Paton, Martine Power, Dianne Schallmeiner ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 237 See also separate subindexes for: 5 EATING P241 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P242 3 ENTERTAINMENT P242 7 SHOPPING P242 2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES P243 Index 4 SLEEPING P244 8 Heeren Street (Melaka) Baba‑Nonya people 199 Bukit China (Melaka) 144 Chinatown (Penang) 161‑2, 143 Badan Warisan Malaysia 52 Bukit Fraser 118‑20 165, 167, 172‑3 Badawi, Abdullah 192‑3 Bukit Nanas, see Chinatown, Chinatown Wet Market 77 Bahasa Malaysia 228‑34 Merdeka Square & Bukit Chinese medicine 80 A Nanas accommodation 15, 127‑35, Ban Po Thar (Penang) 179 Chinese New Year 20 228‑9, see also Bangsar, see Lake Gardens, bumiputra 191, 195 Chinese opera 206 Sleeping subindex Brickfields & Bangsar bus travel 217‑18 Chinese population 198 Acheen St Mosque Bank Negara Malaysia business hours 26, 36, 224 Chinese religions 201‑2 (Penang) 162 Museum & Art Gallery 87 Butterworth (Penang) 155 Chitty Museum (Melaka) activities, see basketball 38 146 individual activities, basketry 41 Chitty people 146 C neighbourhoods, Sports bathrooms 226 Choon Wan Kong 56 & Activities subindex calendar, lunar 21 batik 41, 43, 68, 69, 70, car travel 218 Chow Kit 87, 89, 90, 92, 256 adat 202 83, 170 carbon emissions 214 Chung Keng Kwi Temple Ahamad, Yasmin 207 bats 211 (Penang) 163 Air Itam 178‑9 cats 211 Batu Caves 9, 115‑16, 3, Cave Villa 116 cinema, see films air pollution 221 , 9 115 cell phones 226 City of Digital Lights at air travel 216‑17 i‑City (Shah Alam) 120 Batu Ferringhi (Penang) Central Market 77 amusement parks 22, 70, 174‑7 civets 211 121, 123, 143, 176 Chan She Shu Yuen Temple Batu Maung (Penang) 180 77 clan jetties (Penang) 163, animals 19, 211‑12, 225, see Bazaar Baru Chow Kit 87, 89 165 also individual species Cheah Kongsi (Penang) 162 bedbugs 222 clanhouses 161, 162 animism 202 chemists 224 beer 35‑6 climate 15, 20, 21 Annexe Gallery 77 Cheng Ho Cultural Museum bees 223 (Melaka) 144 clubs, see drinking & nightlife anti‑Semitism 203 bicycle travel 13, 99 Cheng Hoon Teng Temple coffee 35, 37 apes 211 Bird Interpretation Centre (Melaka) 143 Confucianism 201‑2 Aquaria KLCC 50‑1 (Fraser’s Hill) 118‑19 Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion costs 14, 26, 36, 128, 218, architecture 18, 54, 208‑10, birds 212 (Penang) 161 224 54, 55 birdwatching 98, 118‑19, children, travel with 22‑3, courses Architecture Museum 121, 143 112 dance & music 39 (Melaka) 138 boat travel 218 Chiling Waterfall (Kuala food 26, 70, 101, 150‑1, 176 area codes 226 Kubu Bharu) 119 boat trips 120, 125, 151 handicrafts 41, 70, 171 arts 205‑8, see also Chinatown (Melaka) 143‑4, bomoh 203 Court Hill Ganesh Temple 77 individual arts 146‑8, 151‑2 books crafts, see handicrafts Asian Heritage Row 88 Chinatown, Merdeka Square architecture 210 credit cards 224 ATMs 224 & Bukit Nanas 10, 47, environment 211, 212 cruises 125, 151 Awal Muharram 200 71‑84, 71, 248-9 health 221 accommodation 129, culture 194‑6, 197‑9, 204 Ayer Keroh 143 history 187, 189, 190, 191 132‑4 currency 224 Islam 200 drinking & nightlife 72, 82 customs regulations 220 B literature 182, 205 entertainment 82 cycling 13, 99 Baba‑Nonya Heritage Botanical Gardens food 72, 79‑82 Museum (Melaka) 143 (Penang) 178 highlights 71, 73‑5, 76 Brickfields, see Lake shopping 72, 82‑4 D Gardens, Brickfields & sights 73‑9 dance 38, 39, 66, 205‑6 Sights 000 Bangsar sports & activities 84 dangers, see safety Map Pages 000 Buddhism 201‑2 transport 72 Dark Cave 115‑16 Photo Pages 000 Buddhist Maha Vihara 103 walks 78, 78 deforestation 213, 214 238 dengue fever 222 language 229‑30, 233‑4 Hari Raya Haji 200 Judaism 203 department stores 40 opening hours 26 Hari Raya Puasa 200 jungle treks 119 Dharma Realm Guan Yin football 38, 39 hawker food 6, 26, 33 Sagely Monastery 52 Forest Research Institute haze 214 diarrhoea 223 of Malaysia (FRIM) K health 221‑3 Kampung Baru, see Masjid 9, 117, disabilities, travellers with 8 heat exhaustion India, Kampung Baru & INDEX 226‑7 Former Standard & stroke 221‑2 Northern KL Chartered Bank 75 diving 112 hepatitis 222 Kampung Chitty (Melaka) doctor fish 69 Fort Cornwallis (Penang) 165 Hibiscus Garden 99 146 D dogs 211 Fraser’s Hill 118‑20 hiking 119 Kampung Jawa (Melaka) 139 ‑ L Dr Sun Yat Sen’s Penang Hinduism 202 Kampung Kling Mosque Base (Penang) 162 (Melaka) 144 G history drinking & nightlife 35‑7, Galeri Diraja Sultan Abdul Kuala Lumpur 184‑93 Kampung Morten (Melaka) see also individual 139 Aziz (Klang) 121 Melaka 137‑8, 184 neighbourhoods, Kampung Pulau Betong Galeri Petronas 51 Penang 156‑7 Drinking & Nightlife (Penang) 180 subindex galleries 13, 19, see also History & Ethnography individual galleries Kampung Sungai Bumbon drinks 35‑6, 230 Museum (Melaka) 138 (Pulau Carey) 122 gardens 19, see also driving 218 HIV 222 kayaking 119 individual gardens Hma’ Meri people 122 gay travellers 36, 37, 220‑1 Kek Lok Si Temple Ho Eng Hui, Dr 150 (Penang) 178‑9 Genting Highlands 121 E holidays 225 Khoo Kongsi (Penang) 161 economy 183, 190, 191‑2, Genting Skyway (Genting Holy Rosary 196 Highlands) 121 Kim Hai Gallery (Melaka) Church 105 149 electricity 220 George Town (Penang) 155, homestays 127, 133, 174 King’s Well (Melaka) 144 emergencies 220, 230 157‑74, 158-9 horse riding 120 kites 42 Emergency, the 188‑9 accommodation 172‑4 KL Academy of Traditional drinking & nightlife House of Yeap Chor Ee entertainment 38‑9, (Penang) 163 Chinese Medicine 80 see also individual 169‑70 Hubback, Arthur KL Bicycle Map Project 13 neighbourhoods, food 165‑9 Bennison 209 Entertainment subindex shopping 170‑2 KL Bird Park 98, 99, 11, 98 Hundred Quarters 105 environmental issues sights 161‑5 KL Butterfly Park 99, 17 Hutan Rekreasi Air Keroh 212‑14 walks 164, KL City Gallery 75 164 (Ayer Keroh) 143 Escape (Penang) 176 giardiasis 222 KL Forest Eco Park 79 events, see festivals & go‑karting 125 KL Train Station 103 events Golden Triangle & KLCC I Klang 121, 122 47, 48‑70, 48, 250-1, Ibrahim, Anwar 191‑2, 193 Klang River 183 252-3 immigration 188, 194 Klang Valley 120‑3 F KLCC, see Golden Triangle ferry travel 218 accommodation 129, immunisations 221 130‑2 & KLCC festivals & events 20‑1, 24, Indian population 198 KLCC Park 51, 3 200, 202 drinking & nightlife 49, influenza 222 61, 64‑6 Kompleks Dayabumi 77 films 38, 39, 182, 188, 192, insects 223 entertainment 66‑7 Kompleks Kraf Kuala 207‑8 internet access 128, 223 food 49, 52‑3, 57‑60 Lumpur museum 69 fire services 220 internet resources, see highlights 48, 50‑1 Kuala Gandah Elephant First World Indoor websites shopping 49, 67‑70 Conservation Centre 125 Theme Park (Genting Islam 199‑201, 203, 204 sights 50‑2 Kuala Kubu Bharu 119 Highlands) 121 Islamic Arts Museum 12, fish spas 69 sports & activities 70 Kuan Yin Teng (Penang) 97, 12, 97 161‑2 food 6, 24, 25‑34,