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TELEPHONE CODE: 03 Paying respects totheheavenly motherat atthe AdmiringthebeautyofIslamicart Revivinginthegreenery oftheLakeGar- Breakfasting at atthesteel-clad Marvelling Discovering vibrant the MuseumIslamic Arts Park dens (p114) enjoying supperatJlnAlor ers ( p95 ) andtheswankSuriaKLCC mall tour walking (p104 ) Thean HouTemple ( p101) ( p102 ), withitsshowpiece 15) and (p115) Imbi Market Chinatown ( p105 ) ona (p102) Petronas Tow-  POPULATION: 1.38 MILLION KL Bird ὈὈ Lake Gardens&

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KL’s darkest hour came on 13 May 1969 hour came on 13 May KL’s darkest As in other parts of the Malay Peninsula, Peninsula, the Malay of in other parts As After occupation by Japanese forces dur- occupation by Japanese After Loy had barely established control, however, Loy had barely HISTORY HISTORY wettest wettest months. there’s rain throughout the year, March to rain throughout the year, March there’s the are April and September to November Temperature ranges from 21°C to 33°C and ranges Temperature humidity exceeds 82%. Although the average commercial capital. CLIMATE Territory of Kuala Lumpur. The city has pros- Kuala Lumpur. of Territory political and ever since as ’s pered perhaps thousands, of lives. A year later local A year later lives. perhaps thousands, of suspended – ever elections were government since KL’s mayor has been by the appointed In 1974 the sul- Minister. Territories Federal Selangortan of ceded the city’s land to the state become the Federal so it could officially and Chinese communities claimed hundreds, and Chinese claimed hundreds, communities ily returned, only to be ousted when Malaysia when Malaysia only to be ousted ily returned, in 1957. its independence here declared race riots mainly between the Malays when and killed, and many Indians sent to work on Burma’s ‘Death Railway’), the British temporar- ing WWII (when many Chinese were tortured tortured ing WWII (when many Chinese were in 1896 the city became the capital of the newly in 1896 the city became the capital of States. Malay formed Federated new town plan that transferred the central new town plan that transferred Klang. By 1886 a rail- from here, government KL to Klang; by 1887 several way line linked thousand brick buildings had been built; and allowed the British government representative representative allowed the British government through to push a radical Frank Swettenham when fighting broke out betweenwhen fighting local sultans broke KL was swept up in the . for the throne of ground in 1881. This conflict and burnt to the credited as the founder of KL. of as the founder credited (Kapitan China from 1868 to 1885) took on China from 1868 (Kapitan that he’s now ruthless relish the task with such fortune-seekers and their secret societies into and their secret fortune-seekers Ah Loy Yap The successful candidate line. the local sultan appointed a proxy (known as the local sultan a proxy appointed ) to bring the unruly Chinese China Kapitan had died of malaria and other tropical diseases, malaria and had died of Ampang at- in they discovered but the tin and KL quickly became miners more tracted violent boomtown. a brawling, noisy, Kuala Lumpur, meaning ‘muddy confluence’. meaning ‘muddy confluence’. Kuala Lumpur, the prospectors all but 17 of Within a month landed at the apex of the Klang and Gombak the Klang and Gombak apex of landed at the place named the and imaginatively Rivers In 1857, 87 Chinese prospectors in search of tin 87 ChineseIn 1857, in search of prospectors lonelyplanet.com KUALA LUMPUR 92 01km KUALA LUMPUR 00.5miles ul upr Kuala Lumpur

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It’s2kmwestof theLake % 2723 7900;www % (Map (Map pp92-3 ; 17 12 10 16 15 14 13 11 22 21 20 19 18 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 % (Map (Map p96 ; 2164 2011;www D3 A7 C2 C4 C7 B4 B3 B6 B6 B8 E3 F4 F6 F5 F4 F4 F4 E2 F5 F4 F5 E7 % % 2694 7880; Fukuya...... 39) (see ...... Room Dining Café...... Café Bisou...... 36) (see Annalakshmi...... EATING ...... YMCA Hotel...... Tune Lumpur...... Kuala Hilton Resthouse Highland Negara...... Seri Carcosa Homestay...... Soo Ben SLEEPING Ashram...... Vivekananda Arts...... Fine of Temple Rama...... Rama Taman Orkid...... Taman 34) Raya...... (see Bunga Taman Haji...... Tabung Temple...... Sikh Centre...... Koi Park Sentul Temple...... Tong Kow Sam Market...... Pudu Planetarium...... National ...... Museum National ...... Monument National Gallery...... Art National Baru...... Kampung Masjid ...... Mansion Lok Performing Lumpur Kuala 2095 5077;BlockI, 2284 6228; fie...... Office Bungalows Holdings 58) (see Centre...... Arts % % @ 2146 2687 i hot spotsaround the city. http://tungshin.com.my; 102 Jln Pudu) www.hkl.gov.my; Jln ) what’s-going-on digest. globally familiarformat;signuponlinefortheirweekly bars. and hotels,restaurants monthly magazineavailableintop-end eral hotels forfree; signupforanaccountwith hundreds of cafes, restaurants, bars andsev- Twin Towers Medical Centre KLCC Centre Twin TowersMedical Tung ShinHospital Hospital KualaLumpur mon is Guardian, inmostshopping malls. Pharmacies are allover town;themostcom- Medical Services Time Out going oninandaround the city. magazine, withmanyinteresting features aboutwhat’s KLue Juice Media Wireless@KL KLCC, Jln Ampang; % 2382 3500; www.ttmcklcc.com.my; Level 4, Suria 2382 3500; www.ttmcklcc.com.my; Level 4, Suria (www.klue.com.my;RM5)Excellentlocallistings (www.juiceonline.com) Free clubbing-orientated Free (www.juiceonline.com) clubbing-orientated 40 46 45 44 43 42 41 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 (www.timeoutkl.com)Monthlymagazineina D7 D2 D3 A7 A6 A8 A5 C4 C4 C3 C3 C4 B7 B8 B6 B6 B1 B7 B7 B7 E4 F6 E4 E7

(www.wirelesskl.com) h ur u tto ...... Station Bus Putra Station...... Bus Pekeliling ...... Sentral KL TRANSPORT ...... Gallery Wei-Ling Market...... Kit Chow SHOPPING Theatre...... Dance Sutra Maison...... 56) ...... (see Loft Lumpur Kuala (National Budaya Istana Cynna...... 41) Chynna...... (see ENTERTAINMENT 41) Bar...... (see Zeta ...... Savanh Bar DRINKING 31) ...... (see Tei Ri Yu ...... Vishal Siu...... Siu Buharry...... Restoran Peng Makanan Pusat Tanglin...... Makan Kompleks Bellamy...... Jalan Bakar Ikan Ibunda...... 22) Restaurant...... (see Hornbill ...... Restaurant Gem efrigAt Centre...... Arts Performing Theatre)...... Hwa...... Mp p96; (Map 8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) (Map (Map pp92-3 ; ? f % , which has1500 À 2072 1655; lonelyplanet.com Mp p96; (Map % 2615 5555; 58 57 51 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 56 55 54 53 52 50 49 48 47 D2 A1 C2 C3 C2 C4 C4 C4 C4 C8 B3 B7 B7 B7 B8 B6 B8 E7 F6 KUALA LUMPUR

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Jln Jln ( above ). ). above ( 9am-6pm); 8776 5651; ( p101 ). Cool ( p102 ), then ), then p102 ( h National Art National Art % ( p114 ). p114 ( ( p102 ). Go sou- p102 ( Putra World Trade Centre Putra World Trade (KLIA; Carcosa Seri Negara Seri Carcosa Dewan Filharmonik Dewan Filharmonik ( p120 ). p120 ( Jln Alor 2274 5823; . A visit to KL just isn’t Little India KL Bird Park ( p98 ), ending up at p98 ( % Petronas (Map p96 ; www.petronastwintowers (www.tourismmalaysia.gov.my) (www.tourismmalaysia.gov.my)

2615 8188; Level 17, 45 Jln Tun Ismail; Jln Tun 17, 45 2615 8188; Level ( p103 ) or p103 ( % National Museum Chinatown Palate Palette ( p103 ) and a visit to the p103 ( (Map pp92-3 ; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat) Golden Triangle own right, tourist KL’s most useful this is hosts office; it ). p122 (see performancesgood cultural KL Sentral Petronas Towers Petronas Jln Ampang) .com.my; KLCC, been here. unless you’ve complete Chinatown to Little India takes little more little more takes Chinatown to Little India on foot – and some sights than 10 minutes to quicker so close often that it’s together are public transport or grab a cab walk than take in traffic can easily become snarled (which and For a couple system). KL’s tortuous one-way . Apart from the p105 see walking routes, of some of also explore sights here, listed major ) p123 malls ( shopping the city’s eye-boggling KL experience. the essential – all part of PETRONAS TOWERS & KLCC Kuala Lumpur City the huge Anchoring Centre (KLCC) urban development (with and shopping centre a park, convention the iconic and world-class concert hall) are Tourism Malaysia SIGHTS slice up may Six-lane highways and flyovers a feel even so, the best way to get the city, but is to walk. The for KL’s vibrant atmosphere compact – from is surprisingly city centre Kuala Lumpur International Airport Kuala Lumpur International Inter national Arrival Hall, Sepang); Inter (Map pp92-3 ; h Kampung Baru ( p104 ). Choose one of the many restaurants in the in the ). Choose one of the many restaurants p104 ( Lake Titiwangsa 9235 ( p123 ), then explore ), then explore p123 ( 8.30am- ( p102 ) followed by late-afternoon tea at tea by late-afternoon ) followed p102 ( % ( p98 ) and get your bearings of the city from the revolving ) and get your bearings of the city from the revolving p98 ( 8am-10pm) h ( p121 ), and a nightcap at p121 ( ( p120 ), then trawl the night food stalls of p120 ( h ( p124 ) for dinner, followed by a concert at the p124 ( Thean Hou Temple Hou Temple Thean 3rd fl, Jln Sultan 3rd fl, Jln Sultan SkyBar ( p114 ). Spend the afternoon at the at ). Spend the afternoon p114 ( Menara KL Menara Central Market Central (MaTiC; Map p96 ; p96 Map (MaTiC; p96 ; ( p115 ) for breakfast then move on to the Kuala Lumpur City Centre (KLCC) (KLCC) City Centre on to the Kuala Lumpur then move ) for breakfast p115 ( No Black Tie basement, Suria KLCC, Jln Jln basement, Suria KLCC, (Map Islamic Arts Museum (Map p100 ; Jln Raja Chulan; p100 (Map •• Sights LUMPUR KUALA (Map p100 ; Jln Raja Laut; p100 (Map Starhill Gallery Starhill p96 ; Seri Angkasa Seri ( p121 ) or

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8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-12.30pm Sat) You ( p112 ). Enjoy cocktails at p112 ( down inside the Petronas Petaling Althernatively head up Althernatively shopping at the venir Three Days Days Three Start with a gentle stroll around day three restaurant restaurant Two Days Two Days Head to KUALA LUMPUR IN… IN… LUMPUR KUALA tickets for the skybridge of the free one of the limited secure to Gallery take a taxi to the splendid basement of

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90 " f k KUALA LUMPUR 97 B4 B3 B6 B2 B5 B1 B2 B4 B4 B6 B3 B3 B3 B5 B3 B4 B4 C4 C2 C4 C5 C6 C5 C5 C4 C5 C5 C2 C4 C2 C5 C3 C1 C2 A3 A3 D1 D5 D4 D4 D4 D1 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 84 100 101 103 104 105 106 107 108 111 109 110 102 À f Menara KL...... International...... Airlines...... Park Theatre...... (see 88) Thursday ...... Downtown...... Malaysia Airlines ...... Orix...... Royal Brunei Airlines...... Shuttle Bus Stop to Thai Airways Transtar Travel...... Kompleks Budaya Kraf...... Lot 10...... Pavilion KL...... Plaza Low Yat...... Pucuk Rebung ...... (see 97) Starhill Gallery...... Sunday Market ...... Sungei Wang Plaza ...... Suria KLCC...... TRANSPORT Aeroline ...... Avis...... Berjaya Air...... (see 88) Cathay Pacific Airways...... China Airlines...... Garuda Indonesian Hertz...... Japan Airlines...... Lufthansa...... Cosmo's World Theme Golden Screen Cinemas ...... Golden Screen Cinemas...... (see 92) No Black Tie...... Oblique ...... Orange Club...... Seri Melayu ...... Tanjung Golden Village...... Thermos...... Time Out Comedy Wings...... Zouk...... SHOPPING Aseana...... (see 82) BB Plaza...... ...... iKARRTiNi...... (see 97) Imbi Plaza...... Jendela...... (see 94) Green Man ...... J Co Donuts & Coffee...... (see 92) Lecka Lecka...... Luk Yu Tea House...... (see 94) Luna ...... Olé Café...... (see 70) Palate Palette...... Quattro...... Sixty Nine Bistro...... Skybar...... (see 39) Social...... (see 55) The Apartment Village Bar ...... (see 94) ENTERTAINMENT Cloth and Clef...... (see 55) B4 B5 B4 B4 B5 B4 B1 B4 B5 B5 B5 B5 B5 B3 B5 B4 B5 B4 B5 B4 B5 C4 C4 C4 C4 C5 C4 C4 C5 A4 A4 A1 A5 D5 D4 D3 D4 D3 65 66 67 68 69 56 57 59 61 62 63 64 44 46 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 32 34 35 37 38 40 41 42 43 55 58 60 33 36 39 45 47 ? @ Bar...... Noodles...... House...... Fun...... (see 53) Centre...... Long Bao ...... Kuala Lumpur ...... Lumpur ...... Lumpur ...... Werner's on Changkat...... Wong Ah Wah...... DRINKING Blue Boy ...... Ceylon Bar ...... Finnegan's...... Frangipani Bar...... (see 49) Mercado...... (see 92) Mythai Jim Thompson...... (see 71) Neroteca ...... Nerovivo...... Ngau Kee Beef Ball Rakuzen...... Rasa Food Arena ...... (see 97) Restoran Nagansari Curry Sao Nam...... Seri Angkasa...... (see 14) Signatures Food Court...... (see 97) Sisters Popiah...... (see 53) Teluk Intan Chee Cheung Top Hat...... Twentyone Kitchen & Bar...... Vansh ...... (see 94) Warong Perasan...... Bijan...... Blue Boy Vegetarian Food Bunn Choon...... (see 53) Chiaroscuro...... Cold Storage...... (see 82) Crystal Jade La Mian Xiao El Cerdito ...... (see 48) Elcerdo...... Enak...... (see 94) Food Republic...... (see 92) Frangipani...... Frog Porridge Stall...... Hakka ...... Ikan Bakar Berempah...... Imbi Market...... Isetan...... (see 91) La Bodega @ Pavillion KL...... (see 77) Little Kafé...... (see 97) Loaf...... Magnificent Fish & Chip Picollo Hotel ...... Prince Hotel & Residence Radius International Hotel...... Red Palm...... Royale Bintang Kuala Shangri-La Hotel ...... Swiss-Garden Hotel...... Traders Hotel Kuala Trekker Lodge...... Westin Kuala Lumpur...... EATING 1+1...... Betty's Café...... B5 B4 B2 B4 B5 B5 B5 B5 B4 B5 B2 B3 B5 B2 C3 C4 C6 C5 C2 C2 C3 C1 C4 C2 A3 A5 D3 D4 D5 D4 D1 8 9 3 5 6 2 7 4 1 26 27 28 29 30 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 10 31 11 •• Golden Triangle & KLCC LUMPUR KUALA i Guesthouse...... Suites...... (see 72) Booking Office ...... Reserve...... (see 14) Petronas...... (see 97) Centre KLCC...... (MaTiC) ...... Library...... (see 2) Association of Malaysia)...... Number Eight Pacific Regency Hotel Hotel Maya ...... Impiana...... Lodge Paradise Hotel...... Hotel Capitol...... Hotel Istana...... Classic Inn...... Coronade Hotel ...... Green Hut Lodge...... Alpha Genesis...... Bedz KL ...... Bintang Warisan Hotel...... SLEEPING 41 Berangan...... Starhill Spa...... (see 94) Tour 51 Malaysia...... (see 4) Rumah Penghulu...... Skybridge...... (see 16) Spa Village...... Petronas Towers...... Petrosains ...... (see 97) Menara KL...... Morino Kaze...... (see 32) Old Asia...... JoJoBa Spa...... (see 88) KLCC Park...... Lightworks...... Genting Highlands Flying Fox Park...... (see 14) Foot Master Dr Fish Spa...... (see 88) Galeri Petronas...... (see 97) Donna Spa...... (see 94) Fitness First...... (see 5) Fitness First...... Dewan Filharmonik Forest California Fitness...... (see 91) Aquaria KLCC...... Asianel Reflexology Spa...... (see 94) Badan Warisan Malaysia ...... SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Tung Shin Hospital ...... Twin Towers Medical New Zealand Embassy ...... Post Office...... (see 96) Post Office...... (see 97) MPH Bookstore ...... (see 87) British Council ...... Kinokuniya...... (see 97) Malaysian Tourist Centre Australian Information Borders...... (see 88) Australian Embassy ...... INFORMATION AAM (Automobile lonelyplanet.com KUALA LUMPUR .galeripetronas.com; 3rd fl, Suria KLCC; 3rdfl,Suria .galeripetronas.com; admission free; Sun) Petronas Towers when itcomestoproviding h www.menarakl.com.my; 2JlnPunchak; adult/child RM38/28; 421m Built atopthe RESERVE MENARA KL&BUKITNANASFOREST hall. state-of-the-art Petronas ( p121 insidethebeautiful ) tosee cal-music concertintheDewanFilharmonik ings. Considerbookingaticket foraclassi- of contemporary photographyandpaint- h a 90m-long underwater tunnel. tigerview sand sharksandgiantgroupers in adult/child RM38/26; .com; ConcourseLevel, KualaLumpur ConventionCentre; KLCC Aquaria 5pm Sat,Sun&holidays) adult/child RM12/4; KLCC;8181; www.petrosains.com.my; Level 4,Suria discovery centre ily willenjoyboththeinteractive science Allthefam- fountains. and syncronised has agreat kids’playground,paddlingpools interest. Thespacious ers, there are stillplentyof otherthingsof ( Suria KLCC p123 of) atthebase thetow- holidays. public place. Alsoavoid visitingonweekends and can after itopensat8.30amtoensure your assoonyoucounter inthebasement are issueddaily,sobeinlineattheticket 170m above ground.Only1640free tickets Skybridge Islam. of mind theminarets of amosqueandtheStar the 63mmaststhatcrownthem,callingto resenting thefive pillars of Islam–andin ineach tower’s fivealso evident tiers –rep- arabesquepatterns. Islamicinfluencesareoes thatech- star onaneight-sided plan isbased Pelli,architect Cesar thetwintowers’ floor broadcasting centre. DesignedbyArgentinian other companies,aswellAlJazeera’s Asian pany Petronas ( p47 several ) andalso house headquarters of thenationaloilandgascom- up451.9m.Theyaretwin towers rise the 98 Galeri Petronas Galeri Apart fromshopping ordininginthe Opened in1998,the88-storey steel-clad The highest youcan go isthe41st-floorThe highest 9am-10pm; last tickets up9.30pm) 9am-10pm; lasttickets 10am-8pm Tue-Sun) connectingthetwotowers, amodest UL UPR • ihs KUALA LUMPUR ••Sights Menara KL Menara

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2051 7770;www well-stocked % (Map p96 ) 2020 5448; % , the 2331

.aj-hackett.com; adult/childR30/15; .aj-hackett.com; for the Raja Chulan; Raja Find outabout theworkof builtheritage pres- PENGHULU BADAN WARISANMALAYSIA &RUMAH one sideof the hill. flying downa100mwire ropestungdown fancy beingstrappedinaharnessandsent Centre displays andleafletsinthe lasting about45minutes. There are alsogood 11am, 12.30pm,2.30pmand4.30pmdaily fromtheentrancetotowerat tour starting you caneitherexplore aloneoronafree guided the lowlanddipterocarp forest which reserve, and well-labelled nature trailsthatrunthrough Alternatively get aworkoutclimbingtheshort Punchak opposite thePanGlobal building. 15 minutes tothetowerfromgate onJln restaurant Seri ( Angkasa p114 ). have amealorafternoon tea attherevolving Towers’ skybridge. youcan Onefloorhigher, thanthePetronas276m, atleast100mhigher spinning topand,inside,the bulbous pinnacleisinspired byaMalaysian city, barchartering ahelicopter. Thetower’s viewyou’rethe highest goingtoget of the of the mostcolourful andbusiestshopping The commercial heart of Chinatownisone JALAN PETALING Merdeka Square, theheartof is colonial KL. northwest Immediately (p105). experience with it’sdailymarket alongJlnPetaling, isan Just strolling around bustlingChinatown, furniture andlocal handcrafted items. excellent giftstore stockingwoodenantique where you’llfindagoodbookshop andan trust alsoholdsexhibitionsinthebungalow, Saturday (suggested donationof RM5).The arehouse held at11amand3pmMondayto fromKedah.wooden house Tours of the handsome exampleof arestored Malay-style the erty’s groundscontain the shadowPetronas Towers. Theprop- ina1925 its headoffice colonial bungalowin 2JlnStonor; warisan.org.my; Trust;Map of Malaysia p96 ; society ervation Chinatown &MerdekaSquare Also attheentrancetotower,signup A shuttle bus

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Mp p96; (Map 9am-9.30pm) h % 10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) 2144 9273;www.badan h Rumah Penghulu Rumah Forest Information Information Forest % lonelyplanet.com viewing deck 11am-7pm) runs up every runs upevery 2020 5145;www (Heritage (Heritage

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99 , an Sultan Abdul Samad Building (Map p100 ; www.rscweb.my) The square is surrounded by a handsome The square Opposite the club, across Jln RajaOpposite Laut, is the fantasy-like is the fantasy-like copper-plated ) with its distinctive p100 (Map and Victorian, Moorish cupolas. This blend of KL’s many of is typical of Mogul architecture MERDEKA SQUARE SQUARE MERDEKA as field formerly known This one-time cricket independence Malaysia’s is where the Padang was proclaimed at midnight on 31 (Merdeka) it’s hallowed ground to such August 1957. As by a 100m- and is speared many Malaysians high flagpole – claimed to be the freestanding for New world’s tallest. gather here Crowds the and on National Day to watch Eve Year’s ). p109 (see parades ensemble. On the west side is the architectural Royal SelangorClub Tudor building that was the mock- extended for high in KL’s tin-boom society social centre a gathering the 1890s, and remains days of the, It’s also where place for the city’s elite. now worldwide, running and drinking club in 1938. off kicked House Harriers the Hash could also go shopping or grab something to something or grab could also go shopping ). p123 ( Market eat in the Central .

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, temple As lead conservation consultants, we recently won a Unesco lead conservation won a Unesco As consultants, we recently 10am-11pm) Its principal aim is to promote the preservation of Malaysia’s preservation the of Malaysia’s aim is to promote Its principal 8am-8pm) h h More modest buildings that form part of the streetscape – alone form part modest buildings that – alone More of the streetscape January or February or February January

(Map p100 ; street •• Sights LUMPUR KUALA . Its construction was organ- 8am-8pm) (Map p100 ; 163 Jln Tun HS Lee; HS Lee; ; 163 Jln Tun p100 (Map

(entrance gate) was under wraps for (entrance gate) h award for excellence for our work on restoring Stadium Merdeka (Map p100 ) – it was purpose ) – it was purpose p100 Stadium Merdekaour work on restoring award for excellence for (Map type in Southeast independence in 1957 and is the only building of its built for the declaration of also designed a walking we’ve tour ), where p243 St in Melaka 8 Hereen ( managing We’re Asia. the management of also hoping to take over We’re trades. highlighting the city’s endangered ). p187 ( Suffolk House in Penang restored the recently What’s on the danger list? For example, of the area. but together they define the character they may not be outstanding, plan has an area ) – local government p103 part of Kampung redevelop afoot to ( Baru plans are It’s everyone. needed to get an outcome that pleases a lot of conflict resolution but there’s hard getting the conservationvalue for society. For a across, that such buildings have message But when with everyone. and resonate problems that affect droughts or air pollution, these are it’s a personal connectionit comes to saving old buildings, unless someone has to the structure difficult to convince them of the worth of preservation. PROTECTING THE PAST: ELIZABETH CARDOSA CARDOSA ELIZABETH PAST: THE PROTECTING Heritage ActMalaysia’s National pieces of the nation’s archi- outstanding is supposed to protect by the destruction of as proved it doesn’t always work, rampant but with development tecture, is Elizabeth Cardosa, other heritage buildings to save Bok House in 2006. Fighting KL’s historic that is Malaysia’s organization Malaysia, a nongovernmental Badan Warisan of Director Executive the UK’s National Trust. equivalent of do? Warisan What does Badan an impact official on – by advocacy, trying to have this in a number of ways We do built heritage. through by influencing public opinion down to the local level; government policy from top-level at the com- – going into schools and getting people involved our publications; and by education practical conservation We also provide munity level. and heritage consultancy services. among your successes? What are man to the left of the altar. Near here you Near here the altar. man to the left of feng shui) is this fascinating Taoist fascinating Taoist shui) is this feng p100 ; Squashed between Jln Tun HS LeeSquashed and Lebuh by determined Pudu (a position apparently ever when you show up. ever when you TEMPLE SZE YA renovations when we recently passed by, so when we recently renovations dazzling than be looking even more it should each year. Its polychromatic, deity-clad Its polychromatic, year. each urum that’s paraded to the Batu Caves ( p131 ) during p131 that’s paraded to the Batu ( Caves in the Thaipusam festival temple chariot silver ing from 1873, houses a large SRI MAHAMARIAMMAN TEMPLE TEMPLE SRI MAHAMARIAMMAN South Indian Hindu and ornate This large watches and handbags, and pirated CDs and pirated and handbags, and watches hard. bargain to DVDs. Be prepared It offers everything from fresh fruit and cheap fruit and cheap everything from fresh It offers brand-name clothes and shoes to copies of parades in KL, particularly at night when stalls cram the covered lonelyplanet.com ised in 1864 by ‘Kapitan China’ Yap Ah Loy ised China’ Yap in 1864 by ‘Kapitan ); you can see the a small statue of p91 (see 66 66 66 66 66 66 66 6 6 KUALA LUMPUR 100 ‚ Klang Alam; Shah To (200m) Museum Arts Islamic To J ‚ ‚ (1km) Monument National To

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KL Bird Park KL Bird Park 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 50 51 29 31 32 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 49 28 30 33 Alternatively, the KL Hop-On-Hop-Off Bus Alternatively, across from the Central Market to Kompleks from the Centralacross Market Dayabumi and then head south around the lead- the post office to the underpass back of Negara. Masjid ing to the the world’s largest walk-in aviary with some walk-in aviary the world’s largest birds. species of 200 (mostly Southeast Asian) birds’ feeding for different Check the website times throughout the day. The park’s Restaurant its balcony feed, also good for an inexpensive the treetops. view into a great providing ( p109 ) stops at Masjid Negara, KL Bird Park, KL Bird Park, Negara, ) stops at Masjid p109 ( the National Monument and the National at Museum. Once in the Lake Gardens you’re insist on charg- who taxi drivers, the mercy of the short distance ing RM15 to RM18 to cover the meter. to use back to the city and refuse KL BIRD PARK The highlight the Lake Gardens is undoubt- of edly the www.klbirdpark.com; adult/child RM39/29; (Map i @ memo- Travellers Inn...... Court...... (see 65) (Night Market) ...... Restaurant...... (see 9) Temple...... Building...... Kuala Lumpur ...... Original Backpackers Swiss-Inn...... Wheelers Guest House...... YWCA ...... EATING Betty's Café...... Bilal Restoran...... Boe Jet Kei...... (see 55) Central Market Food Coliseum Café...... (see 35) Ikan Panggang Stall ...... Khukri...... Little India Pasar Malam Old China Café...... Precious...... Purple Cane Tea Sri Mahamariamman St Mary's Cathedral...... Sultan Abdul Samad Sze Ya Temple...... SLEEPING 5 Elements Hotel...... AnCasa Hotel and Spa Citin Hotel...... Coliseum Hotel...... Grocer's Inn...... Hotel China Town Inn...... Hotel Lok Ann ...... Hotel Noble...... Lee Mun Guest House...... B3 B3 B4 B4 B4 B3 B2 B3 B1 B3 B2 C3 C6 C1 C3 C6 C3 C5 C5 A5 A3 A4 A4 A5 A3 D3 D2 4 5 7 9 1 2 3 6 8 21 22 23 24 25 26 12 13 14 15 17 19 20 10 11 18 27 16 St Mary’s Cathedral •• Sights LUMPUR KUALA inscribed with ‘Dataran Merdeka’ inscribed with ‘Dataran Merdeka’

At the square’s north end are low north end are At the square’s Court ...... Administration Building...... Library...... (Night Market)...... (see 49) Swimming Pool ...... Temple...... Senjakala...... Sessions & Magistrates Painted Shophouses...... Royal Selangor Club...... Masjid Negara...... Menara Maybank...... OCBC Building...... Masjid Jamek ...... Masjid Little India...... Malayan Railway Lee Rubber Building...... Little India Pasar Malam Kompleks Dayabumi...... Koon Yam Temple...... Kuala Lumpur Memorial Guandi Temple ...... Jalan Sang Guna...... Coliseum Cinema...... Forest Information Centre...... Going Places Tours ...... (see 41) Chin Woo Stadium Chinese Assembly Hall...... Chettiar House ...... C Works Design...... CapSquare ...... Chan See Shu Yuen Telekom Malaysia...... SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Main Post Office...... MS Ally Company...... sible to walk here: take the pedestrian bridge the pedestrian bridge take sible to walk here: originally laid out by the British – seems cut off by railway lines and highways, but it is pos- Lake Gardens & Around Lake Gardens & Around Lake Gardens – Chinatown, Southwest of gardens landscaped hillside of 92-hectares organ dedicated to Sir Henry Gurney, the British to Sir Henry dedicated organ in assassinated high commissioner to Malaya, ). p37 (see 1951 during the Emergency AC Norman’s creations, Norman’s creations, AC dating from 1894 and housing a fine pipe- ), p100 (Merdeka Sq) and across the road is another of (Merdeka branch of Malaysia’s High Court. It looks par- Malaysia’s of branch at night when fairy lightsticularly attractive its exterior. illuminate KL Train Station) and built between and 1894 1897, it was once the Secretariat Building for the British administration and now houses a colonial buildings. Designed by AC Norman colonial buildings. Designed by AC the of Hubbock, architect AB of (an associate lonelyplanet.com rial arches KUALA LUMPUR sion free; regular intervals throughout theday.It’san throughout regular intervals science films(RM1toRM6)inthe theatre at Malaysia; Map Map Malaysia; pp92-3 ; sive experience. educational interesting placetotake children forafun 4pm Tue-Sun) % Taman BungaRaya free; admission pp92-3; you inthe Highlands. Cameron atthesizeof thespiders awaiting and marvel RM1; 4799; Jln Cendarasari; Taman Rama Rama ofthousands butterflies fluttering the through Elsewhere Gardensyou’llfind in theLake LAKE GARDENS southern stretch of the Gardens. Lake withthe connectsthemuseum the highway glass depictingMalaysian life. Awalkwayover beautiful frontmuralsmadeof mosaic Italian distinctive Minangkabau-styled roof andtwo Thu &Sat;French 9am&noonThu) with oneof thefree tures. It’sworthtimingyourvisittocoincide tory, economy,arts,craftsandvariouscul- with interesting displaysonMalaysia’s his- adult/child RM2/free; % the tirely newgallery hasbreathed newlife into A major renovation andcreation of anen- NATIONAL MUSEUM crafts productsand art books. stocked beautifulhigh-quality shopselling Monday)andawell- lunch (RM43;closed restaurantThere’s offering aLebanese aset fully decorated domesandglazedtilework. isastunner,withbeauti- the buildingitself reconstruction of anornate Ottomanroom, calligraphy-inscribed pottery andanamazing include fabuloustextiles, carpets,jewellery, Aside fromthequalityof theexhibits,which Perdana;.my; JlnLembah adult/childRM12/6; ing decorative artsinthe world isKL’soutstand- oneofContaining bestcollectionsof Islamic ISLAMIC ARTS MUSEUM 102 The quirky In thegarden’snorthern quarter themas- Nearby are the 2282 6255;www.muziumnegara.gov.my; JlnDamansara; 2273 5484;53JlnPerdana; admissionRM1; h National Museum National Museum National Monument Islamic Arts Museum Museum Islamic Arts UL UPR • ihs KUALA LUMPUR ••Sights h 9am-6pm) 9am-6pm) shows short generic international National Planetarium . Exit through an insect gallery aninsect through . Exit

adult/child RM15/8, to take photos extra photosextra adult/child RM15/8,totake h

(Hibiscus Garden; Map Map Garden; (Hibiscus pp92-3 ; admis- (Butterfly Park; Map (Butterfly pp92-3 ; h . Taman Orkid % 9am-6pm) guided tours 9am-6pm) (Muzium Negara; Map Negara;Map (Muzium pp92-3 ; (Map pp92–3 ), sculpted 2274 2020;www.iamm.org (Muzium Kesenian Islam Kesenian (Muzium . Thebuildinghasa , which is and theadjacent

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h 10am-6pm) packed % 10am- 2693 . night market; the station islookingshabbythe station andforlorn Station and Mogul-inspired fantasy, The Britisharchitect ABHubbock’sMoorish- KL TRAINSTATION clothing). skimpy anddressshoes appropriately (noshorts or Mecca. Togoinsideyoumustremove your sign wasinspired bytheGrandMosquein and thefive pillars of Islam.Theoverall de- of18 pointssymbolisingthe13states Malaysia minarethigh andstar-shaped maindome,its & 5-6.30pm) Mosque; Map p100 ; JlnPerdana; The contemporary-styled MASJID NEGARA representative. ficial residence of the Britishgovernment Negara ( p112 ), which wasoncetheof- Mahameru Seri istheluxuryhotel Carcosa morning. early ends andwatch t’aichi practitioners inthe (Premier Youcanrent Lake). boatsonweek- munist defeat in 1950. Washington, DC,commemorates thecom- creator of theIwoJimamonument in in bronze1966byFelix deWeldon,the on thefirst andthirdweekends of themonth Sungai Kelang (Kelang River) –headhere Abdullah, JlnDangWangiandthemuddy borderedment purposes byJlnMunshi plex forbusiness, residential andentertain- www.capsquare.com.my) p100; fills upwiththearea’s visit islate Saturdayafternoon whenLgTAR plored onfoot(see p107 ). Thebesttimeto Little Indiaisanotherarea thatisbest ex- Little India&Around stop. still whereinside thestation KTM Komuter trains here to leadsyouacrossthebusyhighway Anunderpassfroming centralstairwell. step inside thisbuildingtoadmire thesoar- Administration Building the forecourt of thesuperb from handsome buildingandisbestseen it’sstillavisually Thissaid, of itsservices. tookoverespecially sinceKLSentral most A newfocusof thearea is West of lake viaPersiaran andaccessed At thecentre of thegardenslies (Map p100 ) dates from1911.Sadly, is distinguished byaspikey 73m- h 4pm-midnight) Mp p0 opposite; p100) (Map , anattractive com- h pasar malam . Masjid Negara Masjid 9am-12.30pm, 2-3.30pm lonelyplanet.com Malayan Railway Railway Malayan CapSquare CapSquare Kuala Lumpur Tasik Perdana

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, 4026 7000; www.art Masjid Kampung Baru % National Art Gallery 6am-8pm) h . A striking mural, Graffiti, Map pp92-3 ; the traditional Malay-style fez. Malay-style the traditional 10am-6pm) h Lake Titiwangsa is an 800m walk east east is an 800m walk Lake Titiwangsa look out for in the gallery’s permanent col- in 1958, are was only started lection, which Wong Dohalan, paintings by Zulkifi Moh’d and the renowned Hoi Cheong, Ahad Osman The gallery batik artist Chuah Than Teng. exhibitions. temporary also hosts many 101, 102 and 103 run between Titiwangsa 101, 102 and 103 run between Titiwangsa while bus 104 runs here Pasar, and Medan from KLCC. ART GALLERY NATIONAL between Jln Tun RazakSquashed and the park is the worthwhile Seni Lukis Negara; Razak; admission off Jln Tun 2 Jln Temerloh, gallery.org.my; free; the walkway covers Masri, by Mahadhir of wall leading up the gallery, the interior by a swirly Guggenheim is dominated which Museum–style staircase. Among the works to flapping fish, as well as a staggering array as well as a staggeringflapping fish, array fruit. Shops weird and wonderful tropical of particularly market, in the lanes around the Hussein, specialise in made-to-order Jln Haji songkok, Northern Kuala Lumpur LAKE TITIWANGSA skyline the city view of For a picture-postcard ) and pp92–3 (Map head to Lake Titiwangsa it. If you’re park that surrounds the relaxing row boats, pedal boats hire energetic, feeling and canoes to glide (per hour from RM3) for a jog. The park is or go lake, the across cou- spot for courting Malaysian a favourite police on the lookout for ples – and religious improper behaviour! Asia and spiritual home of KL’s 75,000 Sikhs. KL’s 75,000 of home and spiritual Asia the ar- focus of road is the along the Further faithful, the ea’s Muslim with its gateway 1924, ), built in pp92–3 (Map the tiles. Explore glazed in beautiful decorated Jln at the junction with here around streets many old wooden houses.Daud to find Even area night, Saturday this is a great outside of food at Malay tastyto come for home-cooked and stalls. roadside cafes unpretentious CHOW KIT MARKET at this lively It’s sensory overload of the Titiwangsa monorail station. Buses the Titiwangsa of jammed stalls sta- sell toys, buckets, clothes, meat and live, fresh tionary, noodles, spices, pp92-3 ; 469-473 Jln TAR; Sikh (Map

(night mar- (Friday Mosque; Map Loke Mansion Bank Negara Malaysia 8.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-4pm, closed pasar malam (Map pp92-3 ; http://museum.bnm Masjid Jamek h •• Sights LUMPUR KUALA . Built in 1907, the mosque is a 2691 0803; www.cheangariff.com; 273A Jln Medan 2691 0803; www.cheangariff.com; was once the home of self-madewas once the home of tin , located in a futuristically designed designed in a futuristically , located (Map pp92–3 ), the largest in Southeast ), the largest pp92–3 (Map % A stroll in the area could be combined could be combined A stroll in the area Yet to open at the time of research but look- research of to open at the time Yet Temple west. Head east along Jln Raja Alang from Jln west. Head and you’ll soon pass the impressive TAR with a visit to Chow Kit Market ( right ) to the right ( with a visit to Chow Kit Market ket) takes over the area close to the Kampung close to the Kampung the area over takes ket) station. (LRT) Baru Light Rail Transit leafy gardens and people go quietly about their leafy gardens and people go quietly about Saturday – with the exception of daily lives night when a lively traditional Malay wooden houses stand amid traditional Malay lies in just wandering the streets. Somehow Somehow wandering the streets. lies in just its sleepy to retain the district has managed the city: in the midst of atmosphere village KAMPUNG BARU BARU KAMPUNG ) pp92–3 (Map area this Malay of The charm Gombak – where KL’s founders first set foot. first KL’s founders Gombak – where to enter. if you wish appropriately Dress Kampung Baru & Chow Kit from Mogul mosques in India, it stands at the and Sungai the Sungai Klang confluence of tranquil creation of onion domes and minarets minarets onion domes and of tranquil creation bricks. Designed pink and cream layered of again by AB Hubbock, who sought inspiration p100 ; off Jln Tun Perak; Perak; ; off Jln Tun p100 11am-2.30pm Fri) Set in a grove of palm trees is KL’s most de- palm trees of Set in a grove lightful mosque, MASJID JAMEK JAMEK MASJID beautifully restored; it’s possible to gain access it’s possible beautifully restored; noth- by appointment only, although there’s by and admiring the ing to stop you walking whitewashed exterior. rich merchant Cheow Ah Yeok. The Japanese The Japanese Cheow Ah Yeok. merchant rich high command also set in 1942. up base here neglect, the mansion has been of years After tycoon Loke Yew, although the original part of although of the original part Yew, tycoon Loke 1860s by another was built in the the structure pp92-3 ; Tuanku) Rescued from the brink of dereliction by the dereliction of Rescued from the brink law firm Cheang & Ariff, LOKE MANSION within walking distance of Bank Negara Bank distancewithin walking Negara of train station. .gov.my) and Jln Kuching metal-clad complex west of ing very promising is the ing very for a bazaar featuring food, fashion and fashion and food, bazaar featuring for a interesting knick-knacks. Museum & Art Gallery lonelyplanet.com KUALA LUMPUR It’s dedicated totheHeavenly Mother, most visuallyimpressive inMalaysia. in thisdistinctly Indianarea includethe Gley (p122 ). Gallery Temple of FineArts( p108 ), andWei-Ling Buddhist Pagoda Meditation, (see p108 ), the Sentral. KL contrast withthesoaringhotel towers above terminus inBrickfields,makingforastriking just aroundthecornerfrom monorail Temple Dragons flyoffthecorners of the BRICKFIELDS hill. the Syed Putrausingtheoverpass andwalkup crossJlnrail toTunSambanthanstation, ple). Anotherroute istotake themono- hill (asktobedroppedoff nearthetem- (Mapstation p100 ) andthenwalkup the orbus27 or52fromKlangbustake ataxi ple, 3kmsouthof thecentre of town,either restaurants andshops.Toreach thetem- areupper decks,whileatitsbase tourist hodgepodge. Taoist/Buddhist and Guandifurthercontribute tothis Buddha),WeituoMilefo (thelaughing of of theWaterfront) toherleft.Statues and Shuiwei Shengniang (theGoddess Buddhist Goddessof Mercy) onherright in themainhall,withGuanyin(the Thean Hou.Her takes statue centre stage admissionfree; Endah; % ornatehighly JlnSyedPutra,themultilayeredOff and THEAN HOUTEMPLE Southern KualaLumpur stalls. food in frontof thetheatre –alongwithcheap live musicanddanceperformancesstaged –free Santai to 11pm,there’s theLaman (moon kite). Every Saturdayfrom6pm while itsfootprintresembles a Malay floraldecorationof betel leaves, ing’s giantroof on a traditional isbased by Mohammed Ka’amur Yaakub, thebuild- of anenormouspieceof origami.Designed p122 ), withitsblue-tiled roof reminiscent the Looming over thegalleryisitsneighbour, ISTANA BUDAYA 104 Other interesting buildingstobe seen There are great viewsfromthetemple’s 2274 7088;www.hainannet.com;65Persiaran Istana Budaya UL UPR • ciiis KUALA LUMPUR ••Activities

Mp pp92-3; (Map Thean HouTempleThean % (NationalTheatre; see h 2274 1239;16JlnThambapillai) 9am-6pm) is oneof the ( off Map Map ( off Sam KowTong wau bulan pp92-3 ; ,

h get imaginabletypeof every fruit,vegetable, day at 7pm. R50 persessionandare heldTuesday atnoonorWednes- yoga classeswithanexpatinstructor. Drop-inclassesare NewAge centre thatoffers.com.my; 19JlnMesui) hatha Menara Maxis attheKLCC Maxis Menara (Map p96 ). 7am-7pmSat&Sun)Italsohasabranchin 11pm Mon-Fri, first.com.my; WismaSPK,22JlnSultanIsmail; Fitness First Fitness California than theusualday-rate of RM50. canworkoutfarcheaperfor thegyms;these Enquire about short-term membership deals Many gymshave includingyoga. classes Gyms &Yoga dating from 1879. Wan Kong Jln Pasar passingthecolourful Baharu, ontoJlnPasar,Jln Pudu,right down thenright LRT gosouthalong fromthestation station; soup orchicken rice(all under RM10). ket traders wolfingdownriceporridge, noodle food courtwhere youcanjoinlocalsandmar- Makanan Peng Hwa,anold-fashioned 24-hour stingray filletorapig’spenis.Attached isPusat slaughtered andbutchered onthespottoa fish andmeat–fromthefootof achicken wet (produce) PUDU MARKET a concentration alongJln BukitBintang places scattered thecity,with throughout dance of Chinese andreflexologymassage are plentyof alternatives. There’s an abun- package) butifyour budget islimited there massage toRM700forathree-hour pamper (anything fromaroundRM150fora standard The top-end spas are competitively priced Spas, MassageParlours&Reflexology Yoga 2Health yogaclasses. for detailsofkundalini movement. Call oftheglobalRamakrishna ashram ispart 220 JlnTun Indian Thishistoric Sambanthan,Brickfields) Ashram Vivekananda Lightworks branches at Mid Valleybranches atMid and Sunway Pyramid. h .californiafitness.com; Lot10,50JlnSultanIsmail; Membership isRM35andits Membership per class. health.com.my; 1stfl,21AJlnTelawi 3,BangsarBaru) ACTIVITIES The market isfive minutes’ walkfromPudu Arrive earlytoexperienceKL’slargest 6am-2pm) 6.30am-midnight Mon-Fri, 8am-8pmSat&Sun)Also 6.30am-midnight Mon-Fri, (Map pp92–3 temple), aChinese Mp p96; (Map (Map (Map p96 ; atitsmost frantic. Here youcan (Map (Map p118 ; market (Map (Map p96 ; % % Mp pp92-3; (Map

(Map (Map pp92-3 ; Jln Pasar Baharu; 2143 2966;www.lightworks % 2711 3299;www.fitness % 2282 3866;www.yoga2 2145 1000;www lonelyplanet.com % 2272 5051; h 6.30am- Choon KUALA LUMPUR 105 Masjid 2284 , a grace- (Map

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( (off Map p118 ; Sixty Nine Bistro Sixty Nine Bistro Istana Negara , at Nos 2 to 8, dating OCBC Building (5) on the way to the Planetarium on the way to the Planetarium Medan Pasar . Sentul Park Koi Centre Park Sentul Sing Seng Nam ; p103 ). When you reach the junc- ). When you reach p103 ; 1 ( at the 9.30am-noon, 2-4.30pm, 6-8:30pm, closed Sun morn- Where Medan Pasar meets Lebuh Pasar meets Lebuh Pasar Pasar Medan Where 9am-6pm) Stonehenge

Walk south from the station along Jln south from the station along Jln Walk Swimming Swimming ings) Twenty-five-metre pool, which can get crowded. badminton Also has tennis courts, squash and and facilities. 6065; 3 Jln Terasek Tiga, Bangsar Baru; admission RM3; Tiga, 6065; 3 Jln Terasek h painted shophouses (3) or from 1906; you could pause for breakfast at coffee Besar you’ll see the built in 1938 for the ful Art Deco structure WALKING TOURS WALKING TOURS a the central KL are of walking tours These way to gain an insight into daily city great the between of each and the interaction life ethnic groups. city’s main Chinatown Walk Benteng, runs beside the Sungai Klang, which view of a great you’ll get across which Jamek Lebuh Ampang, tion with the south end of you’ll be at stands a In the centre square. nal market clock tower built in 1937 to commemorate the Note IV. King George the coronation of Better rather than swim- for splashing around ). p138 ( Sunway Lagoon ming is the Bangsar Sports Complex Chin Woo Stadium Swimming Pool Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun) Award-winning spa and gym Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun) Award-winning body treatments. than 40 bath and featuring more 9am-8pm Sat & Sun) Quiet 50m outdoor pool. 9am-8pm Sat & Sun) Quiet 50m Jln Hang Jebat; adult/child RM4/1.50; h koi carp scale model of 6.30am-10pm 2142 1397; and h % at the National Monument (Map pp92–3 ) in the Lake Gardens Lake) in the Gardens pp92–3 Monument (Map at the National 2719 8342; www.ytlhotels noon-10pm) Tastefully de- noon-10pm) Tastefully 2142 8000; Ritz Carlton (Map p96 ; 2031 8082; www.senjakala 2141 7766; www.jojoba . 2143 9888; 14 Jln Bukit Bintang; % h % % ‘space rocks’ 8am-9pm) Indoor and outdoor % % •• Walking Tours LUMPUR KUALA h 10am-10pm) Upmarket spa reflexology 2141 8999; www.donnaspa.net) One of 2141 8999; www.donnaspa.net) Tugu Drum Circle Tugu h % (Map p96 ; p96 (Map ( (Map p96 ; p96 (Map (Map p96 ; p96 (Map (Map p100 ; 4045 1311; www.sentulpark-koi.com; Jln Strachan; 4045 1311; www.sentulpark-koi.com; 11am-midnight) Claims to be Malaysia’s largest (Map p96 ; p96 (Map in the Lake Gardens ( p102 ). p102 in the Lake ( Gardens % ( p119 ). from 5.30pm to 8.30pm every Sunday, when they gather to make percussive music. they gather to make Sunday, when percussive to 8.30pm every from 5.30pm pp92-3 ; Jln Istana) h your fortune or mango shake, Have the at tea told, along with a bubble ). p107 numerous ‘fish spas’ ( Go paddling at KL’s Check out the of the on the hour outside the gates of the guards the changing Catch Join the Join beautiful a little piece of Japan and Discover 10am-10pm) One of the more pleasantly designed 10am-10pm) One of the more

     QUIRKY KUALA LUMPUR LUMPUR KUALA QUIRKY 

signed men-only spa. Treatment options include barbering Treatment signed men-only spa. and body-hair trimming. Discount available for massage and Thursday. and scrub packages on Tuesday RM148 for foot, shoulder and neck massage. RM148 for foot, shoulder and beauty and massage treatments, a sensory room, and a beauty and massage treatments, second outdoor pool with waterfalls. Health club facilities and sauna, steam room include 24-hour fitness centre, whirlpool. Hotel, 168 Jln Imbi; .com; 20 Jln Pudu Lama; .com; 20 Jln Pudu h as places on the strip, as well offering spa treatments massages. .com; Starhill Gallery, Jln Bukit Bintang; tourist spa. .com.my; 15th fl, East Wing Tower, Berjaya Times Sq, 1 Jln .com.my; 15th fl, East Wing Tower, Berjaya Times Imbi; www.asianel.com; Pamper Level, Starhill Level, Gallery, 181 Jln www.asianel.com; Pamper Bukit Bintang; Starhill Spa Spa Village Senjakala Old Asia JoJoBa Spa Donna Spa foot reflexology. Asianel Reflexology Spa can drop as low as RM40 per hour. Expect Expect can drop as low as RM40 per hour. of than RM30 for 30 minutes to pay no more are several operations manned by blind mas- are the rates seurs along Jln Thambapillai; here (Map p96 ), south of BB Plaza. The pricing The pricing BB Plaza. ), south of p96 (Map full-body (an hour-long is fairly consistent the intense RM65), but becausemassage of this usually bargain competition, you can In Brickfields there down to about RM50. lonelyplanet.com many massage operations on the same floor as Asianel, Balinese style. Donna Spa is 66

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Loke Mansion 2288 1916; 9 Jln Telawi 3, Bangsar Baru; 3, Bangsar Baru; 2288 1916; 9 Jln Telawi pasar % Another Art Deco movie house, the Another Art Deco movie The parallel street to the east is Jln to the east is Jln The parallel street A colonial relic survivingA colonial relic at the south Turn right onto Jln TAR, then turn right then Turn right onto Jln TAR, is the streets of atmosphere The bazaar-like , is on the corner of Jln Dang Wangi and Jln , is on the corner of where Somerset Maugham once drank; stop Somerset Maugham where beer for a reviving or even a meal at the here Coliseum Café. The Coliseum Cinema next the lat- the samescreens era and door is of while heading est Bollywood extravaganzas, scores you’ll pass north along along Jln TAR Doraisamy, a restored strip of shophouses shophouses strip of Doraisamy, a restored and clubs and restaurants turned into bars, Row. You could Heritage Asian rebranded at and cake grab a coffee Tuanku ing your walk at the nearby Medan end of Jln TAR is the TAR Jln end of the Art Deco beauty including fabric shops of (highlighted with gold and flamingo pink) at No 126, home of (8) Head Sogo department store. opposite TAR, the first east along Jln Dang Wangi, then take road on the left: on the next corner, opposite the grand a glimpse of the car park, you’ll get colonial era again onto Jln Melayu and proceed towards the again onto Jln Melayu stalls pedistri- at the market arcade of covered Pick your way India. Jln Masjid anised end of through stalls the tightly to find the packed Indian Muslim-style mosque now in You’re is named. the street which after area KL’s Little India, an energetic the thick of sari and scarf of defined by its preponderance and DVD and CD shopsstalls, gold jewellers full blast. playing Bollywood soundtracks at afternoon enhanced every Saturday from late when a the lane sandwiched between along Lg TAR, India. Masjid and Jln Jln TAR 2141 1916; 2nd fl Piccolo Galleria,2141 1916; 2nd fl Piccolo 101 Jln Bukit Bintang;

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to experience the visceral excitement of of to experience the visceral excitement ; p115 ). h h aquarium (see p98 ) and the following: p98 aquarium (see Spa Dr Fish Foot Master Cyprinion macrostomus, at the dead skin.nibble away experience last- not wholly unpleasant, It’s an initially ticklish, but stand it!). (or as long as you can ing 30 minutes Morino Kaze Morino FEEDING THE DOCTOR FISH THE DOCTORFEEDING FISH bring a all the rage in KL and fish spas are operations, Oftenwith foot reflexology combined the small in a tank filled with Immerse your feet the fish. to feeding new meaning Return to the station, next to which you’ll Return to the station, next to which

The Over is the the footbridge Don’t stop yet, though, as there are a a are Don’t stop yet, though, as there building. 19 Starting from Masjid Jamek LRT Station walk LRT Jamek Starting from Masjid and Jln Tuanku Abdul Rahman (TAR) is the Rahman (TAR) and Jln Tuanku Abdul Mogul-inspired ence the calm core of this pretty mosque. Next mosque. this pretty of ence the calm core Tun Perak Jln to the mosque on the corner of find the the compound to experi- enter appropriately, (4) 18 and Nos 24 to 30, and the ceramic peacock tiles on the preserve of the Chettiars from South India. from South India. preserve the Chettiars of the striking Note Indian cafes, and street vendors selling Indian vendors and street Indian cafes, sweets and flower garlands, has long been the one block southeast to Lebuh Ampang. This southeast one block lined with moneychangers, atmospheric street, the night market. the Little India Walk (21) close by if you want to finish your walk here. close your walk here. by if you want to finish to However, if it’s evening, return formances occasionally happen here, and and formances occasionally happen here, at the back is the Assembly Hall plete with flashing halo); to Sakyamuni’s left halo); to Sakyamuni’s left with flashing plete Arm) Guanyin. (Thousandis a Qianshou tral effigy is Sakyamuni, to whose inside right the South Seais a statue of Guanyin (com- Stadium, the The cen- Mercy. to the Goddess of dedicated south around the busy traffic roundabout trafficsouth around the busy roundabout ancestral the ornate Bulatan Merdeka: of (16) Chan See Temple Shu Yuen ( couple more temples to check out further out further to check temples couple more lonelyplanet.com 66 6

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(http://freedomfilmfest.komas.org) (http://freedomfilmfest.komas.org) At midnight on 31 August join the crowds At midnight on 31 (www.klfestival.org.my) July is a month of July is a month (www.klfestival.org.my) In KL budget means hostels offering a dorm offering means hostels In KL budget Always ask about special deals as practically special deals Always ask about Local independent film makers get to show their cutting- shortsedge and controversial docos and in this festival theme. with a political/social to see people legally .com) The only time you’ll be able flinging themselves off the Menara KL is when the interna- in October. in town are tional BASE-jumping fraternity events showcasing Malaysian art, and music. theatre dance, Budget Budget CHINATOWN Wheelers Guest House HS .backpackerskl.com/wheelers.htm; 2, 131-133 Jln Tun Level .com.my) Catch screenings and symposiums on local and and symposiums .com.my) Catch screenings in November. international films room discounts will not apply. Chinatown places (most pretty is crammed with budget healthy back- also a very awful) but there’s – this scene in the Golden Triangle packer guest- budget of you’ll find the pick is where houses The best places will fill up and hostels. quickly, so book ahead. If other locations are full, Little India and the seedy Chow Kit area low-priced plenty of further north also have accommodation, although many places are close enough. brothels, or a double room offering hotels bed and budget bathroom for under RM100 net; with attached double rooms with properties have midrange attached bathrooms for RM100 to RM400 net; to which RM400 over top-end places charge you’ll also needadd 10% service to and 5% as ++). tax (expressed KL International Festival Film SLEEPING and luxury hotels, KL is awash with both budget grubby flea- are the cheapies although many of rooms, appealing windowless boxy offering pits Characterful rates. only for their rock-bottom the ground. thin on options are midrange promo- and top-end places offer all midrange tions that can substantially The slash rack rates. book ahead to be sure only time you should is public holidays, when accommodation of KL Festival KL Festival National Day in Merdeka celebrate the anniversary of Malaysia’s Sq to the parades and festivities are 1957. There independence in Commonwealth Stadium. next morning, usually at Fest Freedom Film KL International Tower Jump other events Formula the annual city to accompany in the ). p138 Sepang ( 1 race at 2282 9300; www in the Mid in the Mid % 8.30am-8.30pm) 2078 4008; www •• Tours LUMPUR KUALA 2161 8830; MaTiC, 109 2161 8830; MaTiC, h % % 2166 6162; www.myhopon (www.malaysiangp.com.my) End % ( (off Map pp92-3 ; pp92-3 (off Map

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There are more theme parks dotted around theme parks dotted more are There Kids will also enjoy KL’s malls. BerjayaKids will also held at CapSquare, MaTIC,held at CapSquare, Menara Gallery KL, the Annexe and the National Art Gallery for the inaugural design week in March opportunity 2009 – it’s a great to catch up on the the region. latest in design from Malaysia and Malaysian Grand Prix KL Design Week City Day and Deepavali; see p470 p470 see and Deepavali; New Year Chinese information. more for The capital is a good venue for Malaysia’s for Malaysia’s The capital is a good venue including holidays and festivals, major FESTIVALS & EVENTS FESTIVALS & EVENTS Tour 51 Malaysia KL Hop-On Hop-Off

Going Places Tours TOURS TOURS at Genting Highlands ( p132 ) and the wet and p132 at Genting Highlands ( na- ). For p138 wild park at Sunway Lagoon ( ) or p132 activities, head to Zoo Negara ( ture Research the Forest the canopy walkway at ). p132 ( Malaysia of Institute KL, including the indoor and outdoor parks KL, including the indoor service for two hours) (RM30 to RM35 for and over. four kids aged admission weekday/weekend RM19/25) ses- storytelling are – there Megamall Valley an indoor adventure sions, art activities and a crèche provides playground, and the centre kids, try .megakidz.com.my; 3rd fl, North Court, Megamall; Mid Valley Times Square ( p123 ) has shops for kids of all for kids of ) has shops p123 ( Square Times younger indoor theme park. For plus an ages, as is the adjacent adventure playground and playground adventure adjacent as is the ). p98 KLCC( the Aquaria Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book on 1 February, typically with celebrations at Tasik Perdana Perdana typically with celebrations at Tasik on 1 February, Titiwangsa. and Lake hopoff.com; adult/child RM38/17; hopoff.com; This double-decker air-con tourist bus makes a circuit of the main tourist sites half-hourly throughout the day. Jln Bukit Bintang, Menara KL, Stops include the KLCC, Chinatown, Merdeka and the attractions Square of Lake bought on the bus, last all which can be Gardens. Tickets, you like. day and you can get on and off as often as March-early April sees special shopping promotions and .goingplaces-kl. com; Original Backpackers Inn, 60a Jln .goingplaces-kl. Sultan, Chinatown) Offers to the backpacker tours tailored market, such as rafting, including adventurous options and rock-climbing. caving Jln Ampang) Runs a decent selection of half-day city tours Kuala (RM60) and day trips to places such as Putrajaya, Ketam (RM150-180). Selangor and Pulau KUALA LUMPUR % /accommodations_KL.html; 12 Jln Hang Jebat; s/d/trwith /accommodations_KL.html; 12JlnHangJebat; and large shower rooms. phone clean,spaciousroomswith windows, TV, offering Petaling; s/dRM50/60; 5 Tingkat Tong Shin;dm/s/d/trwith breakfast &shared bath- Red Palm GOLDEN TRIANGLE &KLCC LokAnn Hotel entrance ison Jln Sultan. collageofmagazineclippings. The with acolourful wallsare covered cheapie where thecardboardpartition fl, 109JlnPetaling; dm/s/dRM10/25/35; GuestHouse Lee Mun market. Petaling luxe roomswithwindowsoverlook noisyJln ers canbehired). Themore expensive de- (DVD play- have showers attached and TV well-managed, good-value hotel. Allrooms Chinatown, acalmatmosphere reigns atthis ai www.chinatowninn.com; 52-54JlnPetaling; rfromRM79; Only forwomen,couples and families. roomswithfan,deskandwardrobe.acceptable away eastof Chinatown offers plainbutvery generation, tucked thisquietestablishment shared bathroomRM30/50/70) alley, justoff Jln Sultan. Chinatown’s bustle. Theentranceisinan a rooftop dormandbalconiesoverlooking range of fanandair-con roomsaswell Association, thisbackpackers hasadecent building thatwasoncehometotheGrocers’ ai inn.com.my; 78JlnSultan;dm/s/dfromRM13/35/45; arrange avarietyof trips (see p109 ). travellers. Italsorunsatravel agency andcan get breakfast aswellhookupwithfellow tory roomsisitsrooftop barwhere youcan andwell-runhostelestablished withperfunc- from RM54; dm/s/d withshared bathroomRM11/28/30,rwith breakfast. for that itoffers andmuesli home-madeyoghurt dinnersFriday night are hosted. Wealsolove andgreat rooftopstaff terrace where free hasamini-aquarium,gay-friendlyWheeler’s RM50; Lee; dm/rwithshared bathroom RM10/25,rwithbathroom 110 Hotel ChinaTownInn Hotel YWCA Inn Travellers Backpackers Original Also recommended: Grocer’s 2078 2473; www.backpackerskl.com; 60BJlnSultan; 2078 2473;www.backpackerskl.com; UL UPR • leig KUALA LUMPUR ••Sleeping ai ) )

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Mp p100; (Map 2070 4008; are onlydormsatthissmartnewchoice, ing, this homestay offersing, thishomestay justtwoplain renovated, onthe yellow-painted shophouse dm/s/d R35/88/118; ThambiDollah; .classicinn.com.my; Lorong1/77A,Changkat nir T-shirts are alsopartof the package. ball, plentyof internet terminals andsouve- by agrove of bamboo. showers, fuss- Rain shielded frombusyChangkatBukitBintang Bintang;dmRM30; Bukit 58 Changkat people. same Lodge sinceit’sownedbythe –nosurprise, pretty muchdealastheGreen thesame Hut In anoldapartmentblock,thisplaceoffers bathroom RM25/50/65;dwithRM90; dm/s/dwithshared 1-1JlnAngsoka; .thetrekkerlodge.com; on thelobbywallis rather eye-catching. Backpacker. It’sspotlessandthejunglemural thatspeakBahasa noticeboards andstaff complete withtowel-draped12-bed dorm, room RM90; fast &shared bathroomRM25/50/65, dwithbreakfast &bath- .thegreenhut.com; 48Tingkat TongShin;dm/s/dwithbreak- than a hostel. nal areas RedPalm feels more like ahome management andcolourful,comfycommu- bythinwalls,butwithitsfriendly separated room RM25/50/70/105; with ancient electricswitches and furnishings Jln TAR; s/d RM38/45; welcoming. very bathrooms, and the familywhorunsitis clean roomswithwoodenfloors and shared ai s/d withoutair-conRM35/40,withuseof RM40/46; 2ndfl,61BJlnTiong6110; [email protected]; Nam; Ben SooHomestay INDIA&CHOWKIT LITTLE its renovation is complete. toofferplaced andpromises agreat dealonce a four-storey 1940sbuildingcouldn’tbebetter currently justforshow, thisrevamped hotel in itskidney-shapedswimmingpoolis Although .lodgeparadize.com; 2JlnTengah; dm/rRM35/100; grassy gardenand welcoming staff. private rooms (allwithwindows),asmall is aretro-charming choice withdormsand southern edge of theGoldenTriangle,this o Bedz KL Lodge Trekker HutLodge Green Coliseum Hotel Coliseum Hotel Lodge Paradise Hotel ) Down-at-heel butquirkily charm-Down-at-heel

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(Map p96 ; Striking marine images decorate decorate Striking marine images The rooms are spacious with contem- The rooms are ) ) ) Attractive small hotel with a pre-Independence Also recommended: Royale Bintang Kuala Lumpur Prince Hotel & Residence Kuala Lumpur Hotel Capitol Radius International Hotel Piccolo Hotel 41 Berangan Alpha Genesis 2170 8888; www.princehotelkl.com.my; 4 Jln Conlay; d/ façade but modern rooms. modern façade but www.bintangwarisan.com; 68 Jln Bukit Bintang; r RM170; a good for long-term stays. long-term good for Bintang Warisan Hotel or pleasure. 9898; www.royale-bintang-hotel.com.my; 17-21 Jln Bukit Bintang; r from RM310; spacious, comfortable rooms (with offering high-speed access, cable TV, internet com- and plimentary newspaper), a bar, restaurant, and pool. gym reasonable-sized outstanding value for its modern, cream-col- include a rooms. Some nice facilities oured kids’ club, and its serviced apartments are www.radius-international.com; 51A Changkatwww.radius-international.com; 51A Bukit Bintang; r from RM200; with breakfast Changkat of and restaurants for the bars cated some Bukit Bintang, this pleasant offers hotel promotions and high standards as well great decent-sized pool. as a corner rooms for their hip furnish- premium access to the ings and good views. Guests have swimming pool. Hotel’s nearby Federal .com; 41 Jln Berangan; d with breakfast from RM120; from RM120; with breakfast Jln Berangan; d .com; 41 zen-style sim- This sleek new property offers courtyard the two innovation: plicity and been crates. built inside shipping rooms have with rooms cheaper of a couple are There shared bathrooms. from RM170; Tong Shin; r with breakfast hotel.com; 45 Tingkat ai great rooms at the front have ritory. The deluxe and you Towers, views towards the Petronas per day). (RM25 DVD players can rent the rooms at this new hotel that’s going that’s going the rooms at this new hotel the boutique crowd. Practically per- after and an excellent promotional rates petual for business it a fine choice location make piccolohotel.com; 101 Jln Bukit Bintang; r from RM287.50; ai porary furnishings that verge on boutique ter- that verge porary furnishings .com; Jln Bulan; s/d from RM210; .com; Jln Bulan; s/d from RM210; get the best rates for this pleasing contempo- the best rates get and Check out its loft-style rary-styled hotel. % apt from RM370/480;

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2026 6060; www.ancasa-hotel.com; Jln Tun Tan Cheng Tan 2026 6060; www.ancasa-hotel.com; Jln Tun AnCasa Hotel and Spa Kuala Lumpur Swiss-Inn 5 Elements Hotel the environment with solar-heated water. solar-heated the environment with rooms, some with TVs leave and DVD players, standing. It doesmost competitors its bit for little worn, Number Eight’s minimalist design and its value-for-money super-stylish remains shared bathroom RM90, with bathroom RM120-140, both with shared breakfast; GOLDEN TRIANGLE GOLDEN TRIANGLE Number Eight Guesthouse and in-room safe. and cently added a Balinese-style Comfortable spa. TV, satellite kettle rooms feature small fridge, the rack rates by more than half at one of half at one of than by more the rack rates re- option, which Chinatown’s best midrange % Lock; d from RM350; coverings over spacious beds. over coverings cheapest rooms are windowless but still ap- windowless but still rooms are cheapest pealing, with blonde-wood fittings and pastel kualalumpur.com; 62 Jln Sultan; d with breakfast from RM150; 62 Jln Sultan; d with breakfast kualalumpur.com; ai The this is a justly popular choice. cated, and bedroom walls. bedroom and We particularly liked the sensuous design the sensuous design We particularly liked motif snaking its way across the corridor with views towards KL Tower, this new hotel with views towards KL Tower, this new hotel stab at boutique stylings. a credible makes RM149.50/184; some rooms, of and a good range breakfast .the5elementshotel.com.my; Lot 243 Jln Sultan; s/d from 243 Jln Sultan; s/d from .the5elementshotel.com.my; Lot station, which ensures a steady flow of cus- flow of a steady ensures station, which hotel for this cut-above-the-average tomers strip. downmarket on an otherwise .com; 38 Jln Pudu; r with breakfast from RM145; r with breakfast .com; 38 Jln Pudu; closerYou could hardly get to Puduraya bus CHINATOWN CHINATOWN Citin Hotel a cheap KL hotel: a wardrobe in which to to in which a wardrobe hotel: KL a cheap your clothes. hang Midrange Sentral, the rooms here are spotless and and spotless Sentral, are here the rooms come with TV, in and that rarity telephone YMCA RM80/100; Belia; d/tr 95 Jln Padang Book well in advance, as it’s often full. often advance, as it’s Book well in BRICKFIELDS are your thing, you’ll consider staying here staying consider thing, you’ll your here are shared. are All bathrooms well spent. money Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book www.numbereight.com.my; 8-10 Tingkat Tong Shin; d with Shin; d with Tong 8-10 Tingkat www.numbereight.com.my; KUALA LUMPUR catering studios and serviced apartmentsare catering studios andserviced ais .swissgarden.com; 117JlnPudu; dwithbreakfast RM276; Behind Lot10,butwithgoodviewsfrom upper floors. nade.com; JlnWalterGrenier; dfromRM276; gym and stylish restaurants and bars. balconies.Italso hasagood and glassed-in apartments,which have fullkitchens serviced whylong-term residentseasy tosee love its rooms are modernand appealing,andit’s RM525/1250; Bintang;d/apt from 199JlnBukit .westin.com/kualalumpur; Luna ( p119 ), oneof thecity’s best bars. Head totheroof toenjoytherooftop pooland atKL’sotherfive-star properties. standard fine valuecompared toroomsof asimilar from R450; Panglobal,www.pacific-regency.com; Menara JlnPuncak; apt the quadrant. KLCC by constructionof yetanotherluxe hotel in across tothePetronas Towers partlymarred ties, includinganinfinitypoolwithaview parquet floors andlotsof seductive ameni- The chic Impianaoffers spaciousroomswith 13 JlnPinang; dwithbreakfast fromRM450; Impiana GOLDEN TRIANGLE&KLCC Top End box, coffee-/tea-making facilities and TV. bathroom comewithminibar,safety deposit on thedoorstep of LittleIndia. Roomswitha atthismodernhotelclean andcomfortable are politeStaff andtheambienceissmart, noble.com; 165JlnTAR; dwithbreakfast RM150; (LowCost to theLCC-T Terminal).Carrier along thecorridors. There’s alsoabranch next Maggi orNipponPaints inyourroomand McDonald’s, gazingatanadfor,say, yourself floor issponsored, which meansyou’llfind con, toiletries,wi-fi accessare extra. Each rate, justgets however, youtheroom–air- with abathroomforunderRM50.Thebasic in advanceandit’spossibletosnagaroom local budget airlineAirAsia: bookonlinewell tive thelow-costapproach of operationuses .com; 316JlnTAR; rRM50-150; Tune Hotel INDIA LITTLE Hotel Swiss-Garden Coronade Hotel 112 Westin KualaLumpur Suites Hotel Pacific Regency Noble Hotel UL UPR • leig KUALA LUMPUR ••Sleeping Mp p96; (Map pais ) High-standard rooms ) High-standard and facilities. Mp pp92-3; (Map pais

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% 2141 3333;www This innova- ) 2731 8333;www % ais ais 2332 7777; ai ) ) ) swimming poolina garden setting. and Malay motifs.There’s alsoagood-sized glitz of itslobby, which boastsgiantcolumns fresh flowers incontrasttothehigh –stand where bedssportbatikthrowsandthere are of Gardensthisheritage propertyis theLake RM700/1000; maya.com.my; 138JlnAmpang;r/stewithbreakfast from KL SENTRAL&LAKEGARDENS pais Chulan;r/stefromRM1100/3500; istana.com.my; 73JlnRaja goodies. other include airporttransfers, aswellahostof timber-flooredsleek studiosandsuites. Rates Maya isbeginningtoshow wearandtear inits mains oneof KL’smoststylish hotels, the cious and well equipped. eral top-classrestaurants. Theroomsare spa- with animpressive range of facilitiesandsev- pais 11JlnSultanIsmail;r/stefromRM660/1910; .shangri-la.com; portfolio of luxe hotels. this contemporary-design additiontoKL’s with aviewacrosstothePetronas Towers at inside, you’re goingtowantoptforaroom r/ste fromRM610/890; % ta (RM69). tea ( p117 ) oronthehotel’s traditional afternoon splashing outonamealintheDining Room a taste of howthe other halflive consider very much suited VIPs. tonon–rock star For designed,spacioussuites, 13 conservatively There guesthouse. Negara, theofficial are resentative SirFrankSwettenham; andSeri once theresidence of Britishgovernment rep- twocolonial mansions: Carcosa, split beween pais www.ghmhotels.com; Taman Tasik Perdana; stefromRM1100; range of restaurants and bars. are alongwithafab pluses, cess toKLSentral Gardenviewsandon-the-spotac- and Lake to have city leftyourownathome. Sweeping boxes available andPlaystations ifyouhappen screens, withX- boast 42-inch plasmaTV Hilton’s contemporary ‘innovation rooms’ RM455/850; .kuala-lumpur.hilton.com; r/ste 3JlnStesenSentral; KualaLumpur Hilton Hotel Istana Hotel Maya Hotel Hotel Shangri-La o Carcosa Seri Negara Seri Carcosa 2332 9888;www.tradershotels.com; KLCC, Peng; offJlnKia Traders Hotel KualaLumpur Traders Hotel pais pais ) ) ) The Istana’s soothingrooms– TheIstana’s Secluded inthelushgreenery Secluded A jaw-droppinglyopulenthotel

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% 2145 3036; www.theloaf.net; Level 3 & 4 Level 2145 3036; www.theloaf.net; noon-3pm, 6-11pm) (Map p96 ;

% noon-midnight Sun-Fri, 6pm-midnight Sat) h noon-3am) Neroteca Frangipani (Map p96 ; h

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h 2070 3120; www.nerovivo.com; 3A Jln Ceylon; meals 3A Jln Ceylon; meals 2070 3120; www.nerovivo.com; 8.30am-1am Mon-Fri, 10.30am-1am Sat & Sun) 10am-midnight Wed-Mon, 6pm-midnight Tue) Twentyone Kitchen & Bar Twentyone Kitchen & Bar Stylish o Chiaroscuro Magnificent & Chip Bar Fish Hakka h nearby cosy stablemate of % RM50-100; high price you’ll pay for the newspaper- thoroughly at this and chips wrapped fish English operation. 20-1 Changkatwww.twentyone.com.my; Bukit Bintang; meals RM60-80; you can which several of on the menu here, The bar up- plates. on taster sample together gets the street, with a deck overlooking stairs, when a DJ spins chill cranking at weekends dance tunes. and .frangipani.com.my; 25 Changkat Bukit Bintang; meals RM100- 150; Pavilion KL, 168 Jln Bukit KL, Pavilion Bintang; meals RM10-20; 10pm) is is an investor) ex-PM Dr Mahathir which baked-goods on a Japanese take a Malaysian are goods baked – the shop. Huh? No matter for the mini cheesecakes divine and we love quick snack. a 11pm Mon-Fri, Sat) 6.30-11pm pizza and other Italian at this relaxed dishes Istana Hotel. the behind trattoria tucked 7021; 28 Changkat Bukit Bintang; meals RM60-80; h eight the fish (at least high types, quality of mundi) explains the relatively including barra cellent hand-cut noodles and dim sum (sweet and hand-cut noodles cellent with a photographic minidishes), and savoury the actually resemble menu whosepictures served.you’re delicious food Jln Raja Chulan; section dishes. The outdoor – atmos- tofu hung with fairy lightspheric and that com- Petronas the illuminated plement the view of the evenings. – is only open in Towers & FUSION EUROPEAN Loaf Bidara, 30, Jln Bedara; meals RM50; Bidara, 30, Jln Bedara; meals RM50; .neroteca.com; the Somerset, 8 Lg Ceylon; meals R50-100; .neroteca.com; creative fusion-style dishes at this outstand- creative The dining room, ing fine-dining restaurant. pool, is divine, surrounds a reflecting which bar. upstairs an equally stylish and there’s Hakka-style cuisine: try the stuffed cuisine: try the and crabs Hakka-style char It’s 2144 % (Map p96 ;

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Time Out Time The budget Tune Hotel budget Tune The Avidly patronised chain that turn out ex- patronised chain Avidly 2148 2338; Annex Block, Lot 10, 50 Jln Sultan Ismail; meals by a bridge to the main KLIA terminal. KLIA terminal. by a bridge to the main hotel includes a fitness centre, business business a fitness centre, includes hotel rooms come spa and sauna, and all centre, bathroom and TV. with attached while the luxurious branch next to the LCC-T, KLIA Pacific Pan pacific.com; r from RM504; pacific.com; KLIA TRANSIT HOTELS HOTELS KLIA TRANSIT or up before to do is freshen If all you need find the your flight, you might after Transit Hotel Bldg, KLIA; d 6hr RM140; Bldg, KLIA; d 6hr If you need more options than those options listed If you need more Whether you’re on a budget or not, most on a budget Whether you’re Crystal Jade La Mian Xiao Long Bao EATING EATING & Sun) % RM20-40; kway teow highly recommended. sauce) is black-bean spotless place at the base of a backstreet apart- a backstreet spotless place at the base of The but it’s true. ment block is vegetarian, 9011; Jln Tong Shin; meals RM5-10; at this hard to believe that everything prepared CHINESE CHINESE Blue Boy Vegetarian Food Centre compiles a monthly top 40 of its favourite its favourite compiles a monthly top 40 of culinary picks. Golden Triangle & KLCC siastic foodies we’ve met, as well as video met, as well as video siastic foodies we’ve clips. below, we highly recommend the website the website below, we highly recommend Fried Chillies the most enthu- by some of spot-on reviews offer an answer. offer want air-con with your meal – then KL’s many want air-con malls, in shopping food courts, usually located should have little to fear from eating at them. little to fear should have However, if this is not your thing – or you just sive restaurants ( restaurants sive you good and generally stalls are at hawker cheap cafes (called cafes cheap often the best food is from the hawker stalls, the best food is from the hawker often Asian and European, KL is a nonstop feast. You KL is a nonstop feast. and European, Asian or mingle with elegance can dine in incredible stalls – it’s all good street locals at thousands of pocket. the on and it’s seldom heavy From Malay and Nonya dishes to practically Nonya dishes and From Malay Chinese,every permutation Indian, Southeast of lonelyplanet.com KUALA LUMPUR classy ‘nose to tail eating’joint.Nextdooris totail classy ‘nose where chef Takao Andomakes diners smile of of downtownKL,this‘house happiness’is Chulan; mealsRM50-70; .com; 3Jln Ceylon;mealsRM60-80; Friday to Sunday. (using coconutmilk),onlyavailablelaksa chicken strips)andthespicySiamese for, including of theNonyadishesthatPenang isfamous several meals(RM13.50)letyousample Set KLCC,Suria JlnAmpang;mealsRM15-20; Abdullah; 7880; G49,CapSquare Centre, CapitalSquare, 8JlnMunshi also abranch inCapSquare noodlesandIpoh mee simple localdishes prawn such ascurrylaksa, h Chulan;mealsRM8-15; group.com; WismaConway,JlnRaja Betty’s Café MALAY &NONYA cuisine. dining) with hisimpeccable .com.my; 9JlnDelima;mealsR100; style roomsat the rear. found atthissmartplacewithsomeJapanese- and nicelypresented traditionaldishes canbe Rakuzen JAPANESE atthissuper-stylishserved restaurant. Tasty andnicelypresented Indianfoodis Bintang;meals RM80; 181JlnBukit Gallery, RM4.50. for leaf meals,includingavegetarian lunch set gets thethumbsupforitsauthenticbanana- mealsRM5-10; Nagansari; House Curry Nagansari Restoran INDIAN owner’s pletes theGerman hat trick. Bintang) Bukit 5670; www.wernerskl.com;50Changkat the restaurant-bar whileacrosstheroad bar,ElCerdito, its tapas Bintang; mealsRM80-100; % authentic staples. Italian and isequallyadeptatturningoutdelicious, 114 10.30pm Mon-Sat) Little Penang Kafé Little Penang Kafé Fukuya Vansh A porklovers’ heaven, Bijan 10am-6pm) 2145 0511; www.elcerdokl.com; 43-45 Changkat Bukit Bukit 2145 0511;www.elcerdokl.com;43-45Changkat UL UPR • aig KUALA LUMPUR ••Eating h (Map p96 ; p96; (Map

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SISTERS ARE DOING IT FOR THEMSELVES: MEI LIM MEI LIM THEMSELVES: IT FOR ARE DOING SISTERS Popiah Crispy right since her Sisters doing something Mei Lim is obviously can be found stalls well as at Amandala mall, as mall and Putrajaya’s Sunway Pyramid PJ’s mall, in KL’s Mid Valley in the Imbi Market. location its humble original popiah? you been rolling How long have in the roll? the ingredients What are fried shallots; slivers of cucumber and carrot; and turnip boiled in soy sauce and garlic. I prepare I prepare in soy sauce and garlic. carrot; and turnip boiled of cucumber and slivers fried shallots; better. way it tastes – that overnight to rest so it has time this in the afternoon to your rolls? What’s the secret 1 + 1 For food courts you can’t go wrong with For food courts you can’t o o Ngau Kee Ball Noodles Beef the street, and justly famous for its seriously and justly famous the street, wings, this is an ideal spot chicken addictive beer. of snack with a bottle for a late-night RM15-20; ‘non-spicy’, where they’re mixed in with the mixed they’re ‘non-spicy’, where rice gruel. tasty the frogs legs (RM7) are servedthe frogs legs (RM7) are separately, or on this eats street that doeson this eats street good dim sum is the frog Opposite and lunch. for breakfast stall (per bowl RM7; open 5pm to porridge ‘spicy’, where 2am). You can choose to have One of the few round-the-clock operations few the One of ridge), and Bunn Choon for the creamy and Bunn Choon for the creamy ridge), mini- egg tarts. Teluk Intan Chee serves Cheung Fun, which Teluk (rice por- and peanut congee oyster a lovely locals happily recommending their favourite their favourite locals happily recommending ); above Popiah (see Sisters stalls. We like simply as Imbi Market. Breakfast is like a a is like Breakfast simply as Imbi Market. with all the friendly and curious party here RM10; Baru Bukit Bintang, but everyone knows it sauce beef chunky mince, and the balls in a soup. Delicious! clear venerable street stall comes in two parts: dry, street venerable noodles topped with a thick soy- steamed Tong Shin; meals RM5-10; food court also offers outstanding choice and outstanding choice food court also offers swank surroundings. level four has more local selections. Pavilion local selections. Pavilion level four has more KL’s has two: Signatures on level two specialises in has two: Signatures food, while Rasainternational on Food Arena those in the malls. Suria KLCC (Map p96 ) p96 those KLCC in the malls. Suria (Map still great value and a wonderful atmosphere. atmosphere. value and a wonderful still great Most stalls 5pm and close open around late, open all day. We list stan- are although a few options below. dout lonelyplanet.com KUALA LUMPUR cuisine, includinggreat authenticNepalese simple restaurant serves of agatheringpointforNepalisinKL,this Jln Doraisamy; mealsRM10; Bisou EUROPEAN fried noodles. mee filled withshredded porkandonions)orthe specialities such as Skip theWestern dishes andgoforthehouse kopitiam busy itgets atthismuch beloved Hainanese RM10-15; Yut Kee CHINESE Kuala Lumpur Little India,KampungBaru&Northern at dishes served Head noodle tothebackfindspicyBurmese style onthe from astall corner.same a refreshing Asian fruitdrink,alsobought down withaglassof time toexplore themarket. Wash themeal wrapped pouch tocook,allowing of seafood it generally takes 20minutes foryourfoil- Petaling andJlnHang Lekir. Orderahead– tucked onthecornerof behindthestalls Jln unsignedand Bank, outside HongLeong stall dishesfromthe and seafood Sultan. Jln on JlnHang JlnPetaling between Lekir, and restaurants outsidetheChinese the tables atoneoftouristy optionistotake aseat togetyou need outonthestreets. Theeasy allof Chinatown’saction, you wanttosee Market Central There’s twoof agoodfoodcourtonlevel HAWKER STALLS &FOODCOURTS dishes. mutton steamed orfried,andspicychicken and .com; JlnSilang;mealsRM20; Khukri NEPALI trademark Nonyacuisine,aswell a bar. more upscaleenvironmentinwhich toenjoy offers to theOldChinaCafé tablishment a art,thissister es- andmodernChinese sale) 116 Set backfromthemaindragisold- Set istojoinlocalsenjoyingspicyfish Better

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Relaxed cafe-bar where emerging emerging where cafe-bar Relaxed or Cloth and Clef Wings www.tgv.com.my; Level 3, Suria KLCC) 3, Suria Level www.tgv.com.my; Places come and go in KL’s lively but fluid Places come and go in KL’s lively clubbing scene; stay by reading up to date KLue at nights a DJ spins dance tunes at the bars ) and Twentyone Kitchen p113 Frangipani ( & Bar ( p113 ). ROCK & POP ROCK & POP Urban out the bands playing at Also check ) and the Laundry out at the Curve left Attic ( (see p138 ). 30 Changkat.clothandclef.com; Bukit Bintang) and DJ bar that’s trying to do something a edgy; play DJ at their and more bit different iPod’ events. monthly ‘It’s My .com; 16 Jln Kampung Dollah, off Jln Pudu; local artists perform pop, rock and the rest, Bahasa Malaysia. mainly in Chinese and Clubs the chance to attend a concert at this gor- to attend the chance the Petronas concert hall at the basegeous of Philharmonic The polished Malaysian Towers. Friday and (usually plays here Orchestra Saturday evenings matinees, and Sunday but local and interna- also other times) as do other code. dress is a tional ensembles. There JAZZ No Black Tie .com.my; 17 Jln Mesui; cover RM20-50; and bar venue jazz and live-music Small, chic, is the stage artists; with an eclectic line-up of to the rear. wood door a heavy hidden behind Once a month and showcasing local singers Up event here, own material. bands doing their Tanjung Golden Village Golden Tanjung Music ) sometimes also p122 The Istana Budaya ( hosts concerts. CLASSICAL Petronas Dewan Filharmonik Box Office,7007; www.malaysianphilharmonic.com; 2, Tower tickets from RM10-210) Towers, KLCC; Petronas 1.30am) Level 6, Pavilion KL, 168 Jln Bukit 6, Pavilion in Book a seat Bintang) Level chairs and reclining (RM40) for La-Z-boy–style Gold Class drinks service.

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8312 3456; www.gsc.com.my; 3rd fl, Berjaya 3rd fl, Berjaya 8312 3456; www.gsc.com.my;

% 8312 3456; www.gsc.com.my; Mid Valley Megamall, Megamall, Mid8312 3456; www.gsc.com.my; Valley 2117 3046; www.timessquarekl.com/imax.html; 10th 2117 3046; www.timessquarekl.com/imax.html; Shaping up to be CapSquare’s social hub up to be CapSquare’s Shaping

Zeta Bar Social Urban Attic Urban Attic Golden Screen Cinemas around RM12. Cosmo’s World Theme Theatre Park tural centres (see p94 ) about the art-house p94 (seetural centres are Tickets films they occasionally screen. Mainstream movies are screened at the at the screened are movies Mainstream in the malls. Contact the cul- multiplexes ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT Cinemas well-to-do and hip 30s to 40s crowd. well-to-do and hip 30s to .com; Hilton 3 Jln Stesen Sentral, Brickfields) Kuala Lumpur; ZetaThe classy and expensive pulls in the booze. There’s also a branch on Changkat on Changkat also a branch There’s booze. ; p96 Bukit Bintang (see Map Bangsar Baru; ing subdued red lighting, opaque furniture lighting, opaque furniture ing subdued red and soothing sounds. See for de- the website and at music performances here live tails of other branches. .com.my; 29A Jln Telawi 3, Bangsar Baru) 3, .com.my; 29A Jln Telawi Bar Upstairs and-tell sessions with local creatives – in the creatives with local sessions and-tell past, too. Bangsar Baru & Brickfields sporadic Pecha Kucha (www.pecha-kucha Kucha sporadic Pecha nights – show- .org/cities/kuala-lumpur) space. It’s a fine hangout and has hosted KL’s It’s a fine hangout and has hosted space. .com; C7 Persiaran CapSquare, CapSquare; CapSquare; CapSquare, .com; C7 Persiaran Sat) Asian Heritage Row; after finishing dinner at finishing dinner Row; after Heritage Asian bar, which to this downstairs CoChine, head at weekends. music has live often -group.com; 62-64 Jln Doraisamy) its Vietnamesegroup sprinkles on magic Bar Savanh bedecked bar, which is knee-deep is bar, which in travellers bedecked constant rotation. on Bob Marley and has Little India lonelyplanet.com % on a Sq, 1 Jln Imbi) Movies screened fl, Berjaya Times high. storeys five screen p96 ; 1 Jln Imbi); Square, Times % City); Mid Valley is this partially open-air bar and live-music bar and live-music is this partially open-air ing pool tables and good food as well as the Bistro is this supreme chill-out venue boast- venue chill-out Bistro is this supreme 28 Changkat Bukit Bintang). 28 Changkat KUALA LUMPUR similar danceshow at8.30pmdailyintheat- end Ramli Ibrahim has been turnedintoa Ibrahim hasbeen end Ramli Titiwangsa) www.sutradancetheatre.com; 12Persiaran Titiwangsa 3, 6pm to10.30pm) is extensive. 8.30pm to9.15pm.ItsMalaysian (open buffet Malaysian andshowRM70)runfrom buffet dance performances(show onlyRM31.75 .com; 1JlnConlay) and only RM40,buffet show RM75). tached restaurant Saloma( auditorium totherear of MaTiC RM5/free) music performances(adult/child under12 Professionally staged traditionaldanceand 4900; 109JlnAmpang; to see what’s on. and t’aichi performances.Checkthewebsite dance, dance Indian classicaldance, Chinese programme of free includingMalay events, JlnHangKasturi) market.com.my; Market Central Dance &CulturalShows Bar. Relish@Terrace gilded youthpassingbyfromtheoutdoor Asia KL’s (www.kokoasia.com). Glimpse Koko Sonic, hometotheindie-danceevent hop groovers; andthecutting-edge Bar that’s glitter-ball heaven; Phuture forhip- Velvet Underground, withadancefloor main venue, there’s themore sophisticated international DJs.As wellasthetwo-level andaline-upofto suiteveryone localand .my; 113JlnAmpang) rules. forms, for thisclubwhere music,inallits house knockedbeen together toformagreat space .com.my; 8JlnYap AhShak) their dance moves. toshowcase catwalk allowspodiumqueens Asian Heritage Row’sclubbingofferings. A mon balcony,Loft isthemostenduringof club Cynna,towhich itslinked byacom- Row,JlnDoraisamy) Heritage Saturday. to ing onedrink)of RM20toRM40Thursday Sunday andusuallycharge acover (includ- 122 Sutra Dance Theatre Sutra DanceTheatre Melayu Seri Zouk Maison Loft Clubs are typicallyopenWednesdayto Malaysian Tourist Centre Centre Tourist Malaysian UL UPR • hpig KUALA LUMPUR ••Shopping

Mp pp92-3; (Map Mp p96; (Map Thehomeof Malaysian dance leg- Mp pp92-3; (Map

are heldregularly inthemini- Mp p96; (Map Mp p100; (Map Traditional Malay musicand KL’stopcluboffers spaces % % h 2171 1997;www.zoukclub.com % Together withitssister

% Mp pp92-3; (Map 2694 2888;Unit28-40Asian Five shophouses haveFive shophouses 3pm Mon,Tue, Thu&Sat) % 2145 1833;www.serimelayu (MaTiC; Map p96 ; 2381 2088;www.maison % 2031 0399;www.central Hostsaregular 2161 0122;show . % It alsohasa 4021 1092; % 9235 this modern performing-arts complex set in this modernperforming-artscomplexset the wall.Filmscreenings, theatre anddance abitmorethat does thanjust hangworkson gear, computers andelectronicgoodsare all packed withthereal deal. Clothing,camera fering fake-label goodstoglitzyshoppingmall fromstreetKL haseverything markets prof- SHOPPING girl) in KL. by someof thefunniestguys(andoccasional gig packed forthismonthlystand-up house cover RM20; Bintang; Bukit www.timeoutkl.com; LittleHavana,Changkat north of the city. Westinthe the landscapedgroundsof Sentul Strachan) pp92-3; wear shirts. long-sleeved There’s adress code:noshorts,andmenmust Symphony Orchestra andNationalChoir. well asmusicperformancesbytheNational drama anddanceshows are staged here, as 5555; www.istanabudaya.gov.my; JlnTun Razak) Istana Budaya Theatre &Comedy shows. upcoming tre thewebsite Titiwangsa. for nearLake See as adancestudio,galleryandculturalcen- forIndianclassicaldanceaswell showcase lcl artists. local into acontemporary gallery toshowcase haveold shophouse imaginatively been turned 10am-5pmSat) Mon-Fri, 8JlnScott,Brickfields; .weiling-gallery.com; the country’s top artists. ies hasfrequent showsandrepresents someof noon-6pm Sat) 8pm Mon-Fri, www.vwfa.net; 1stfl,17JlnTelawi 3,BangsarBaru; agenda. the andlaunches areworkshops, talks alsoon 7pm) Annex,JlnHangKasturi; gallery.com; CentralMarket Gallery Annexe Art Galleries as interesting contemporary art. handicrafts fromallover thecountryaswell competitively priced.You’llalsofindoriginal Time OutComedyThursday Kuala Lumpur Performing Arts Centre Centre Arts Kuala LumpurPerforming Wei-Ling Gallery Wei-Ling Gallery Valentine WillieFine Art For bookshops,see p91 . Nonprofit centre forcontemporary arts % Lotsof interesting workisstaged at 4047 9000; www.klpac.com; Sentul West,Jln4047 9000;www.klpac.com; Sentul h 9pm firstThuofmonth) (National Theatre; Map (National Theatre; Map pp92-3 ;

Mp p100; (Map

Mp pp92-3; (Map Thetoptwofloors of this Oneof KL’sbestgaller- % Mp p118; (Map Mp p96; (Map 2070 1137;www.annexe % lonelyplanet.com It’salwaysa 2260 1106;www % % h Big-scale (KLPac; Map

2284 2348; 2166 6650; noon-7pm % h h 4026 noon- 11am- KUALA LUMPUR

123 , and , and malam

2938 3333; 2282 1808; 2282 1808; % Sat) See p117 . p117 Sat) See Check out Check out % 2117 3081; www pasar h % Sun) See p119 . p119 Sun) See h 2118 8833; www.pavilion 2382 2833; www.ikarrtini (Map p118 ; Mammoth mall with Mammoth Over shops 450 retail 10am-10pm) Stylish and extensive extensive Stylish and

% (Map p96 ;

% (www.melindalooi.com) (off Map pp92-3 ; pp92-3 (off Map These malls connected 2382 9988; Ground fl, Suria KLCC, fl, Suria2382 9988; Ground KLCC,

Sat) See p117 . p117 Sat) See h % h (along Jln Raja Muda; (Map p96 ; 10am-10pm) (Map p96 ; (off Jln Telawi 1; (off Jln Telawi (Lg TAR; (Lg TAR; h (Map p96 ; Melinda Looi The following are the major the major The following are Pavilion KL Pavilion Berjaya Times Square Square Berjaya Times Mid Megamall Valley Bangsar Village I & II Aseana iKARRTiNi international brands as well as a hotel and brands as well as a hotel international serviced out apartments. On level 2, check and Avenue at 2201 Fashion local designers .com.my). (www.keyng Ng KN Key -kl.com; 168 Jln Bukit Bintang) across seven levels in KL’s latest spread Jln Telawi 1, Bangsar Baru) Jln Telawi Bangsar;form the shopping hub of the newer with interna- II complex is packed Village tional and local fashion shops, restaurants and cafes. 1 Jln Imbi) .timesquarekl.com; an indoor amuse- bookstore, Borders a huge multiplex cinema. ment park and a City, Lingkaranwww.midvalleycity.com; Mid Valley Putra) Syed This colossal complex, next to KL Komuter station, is indeed mega and prob- Mid Valley ably the best one-stop shopping, dining and experience in KL. In a sepa-entertainment a building you’ll find the Gardens Mall, rate embracing designer environment luxe more fine silk and cotton. fine silk Markets those are daily produce markets major ). For The p104 ) and Pudu ( p103 at Chow Kit ( out check souvenirs clothes, bags, DVDs and ). p98 ( Chinatown’s Jln Petaling Bangsar Baru Kampung Baru Little India Shopping Malls what you need at theseYou’ll find most of to 10pm. shopping malls, all open 10am Fashion Fashion place for ) is a great p124 ( Wan Plaza Sungei teenand up-and-coming designers fashions as such also worth ) is below (see Mall the Gardens browse too. a Jln Ampang; serving plus a cafe local fashion, selection of and drinks. food good Malay .com; level 2, Suria KLCC; sell- the separate stores men’s and women’s print fashions on ing their own batik design (night markets): (night

10am-9pm) 2031 0399; 2031 0399; Beautiful h 2162 7533; www % 2026 0711; 2 Jln (off Map pp92-3 ; ; pp92-3 (off Map This upmar- Located 8km 8km Located % % 2382 0769; Level 3, 3, 2382 0769; Level 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7pm to % 3182 0240) on level h (Map p96 ; 10am-10pm) % 9am-5pm) 2144 9189; www.jendela-kl.com; (Map (Map p100 ; Peter Hoe’s original batik Peter h h % (Map p96 ;

•• Shopping LUMPUR KUALA (Pasar Seni; Map p100 ; p100 Seni; Map (Pasar

10am-7pm) (Map p96 ; h Largestocking a handicrafts complex

4145 6122; www.royalselangor.com.my; 4 Jln Usahawan 4145 6122; www.royalselangor.com.my; 2026 9788; 2nd floor Lee Rubber Building,

Royal Selangor Pewter Factory Pucuk Rebung Peter Hoe Evolution Jendela Kompleks Budaya Kraf Kompleks Budaya Kraf one of Suria KLCC. one of station and then a taxi (RM3). Alternatively, station and then a taxi (RM3). Alternatively, visit its main outlet ( try your own hand at creating a pewter dish dish a pewter try your own hand at creating to the LRT ). Take p108 (see traditional tankards and the like, it has com- traditional tankards and the like, to produced missioned modern designers gifts. For RM50 you can appealing some very leading manufacturer of pewter. As well as As pewter. of leading manufacturer % Enam, Setapak Jaya; Malaysian handmade goods. handmade Malaysian ket and pricey arts-and-craft store doubles and pricey arts-and-craft store ket as a gallery – it specialises in all kinds of Suria KLCC, Jln Ampang; Suria KLCC, a pleasant cafe around the corner on the 2nda pleasant cafe Rubber Building. the old Leefloor of bigger store (Peter Hoe Beyond; Map p100 ; p100 Hoe Beyond; Map (Peter store bigger % 145 Jln Tun HS Lee; to 7pm) with open 10am tastefully arranged Malaysian and imported and imported Malaysian arranged tastefully also a much There’s home goods, too. Asian designs on sarongs, shirts and dresses are the are designs on sarongs, shirts and dresses but you’ll find many main drawcard here, Hang Lekir; for homewares and clothing. There’s also a and clothing. There’s for homewares at CapSquare. branch Explore fl, StarhillExplore Gallery, Bukit 181 Jln Bintang) traditional and modern batik prints used dens. The complex also has a small museumdens. The complex also courses. batik-making and offers craftsmen and artists in the surrounding gar- craftsmen and artists in wooden artifacts, pewter utensils, woven woven utensils, wooden artifacts, pewter and ceramics. A glassware furniture, baskets, to meet highlightthe chance this place is of Sat & Sun) locally produced batiks, carvedbig variety of .malaysiancraft.com; Jln Conlay; the annex for interesting pieces from Borneo pieces the annex for interesting and Tibet. need to bargain hard to get good deals; try hard to get need to bargain Art House in Ethnic Arts Museum Gallery of around this treasure house of souvenirs, batik, batik, souvenirs, house of treasure around this artifacts jewellery. Asian clothes and kites, you’ll but also available, are and antiques www.centralmarket.com.my; Jln Hang Kasturi; wandering an hour or more It’s easy to spend Crafts & Souvenirs & Souvenirs Crafts Central Market lonelyplanet.com northeast of the city centre is Malaysia’s is Malaysia’s the city centre northeast of KUALA LUMPUR .malaysiaairports.com.my) into town, see p126 . west of thecitycentre. Fortransportoptions unity.com/starhill; 181 Jln Bukit Bintang) 181JlnBukit unity.com/starhill; 5651; .com.my; KLCC, JlnAmpang) .com; 6thfl,BerjayaTimes Square, 1 Jln Imbi) Cathay Pacific Airways Cathay Berjaya Air 10pm) office in (www.airasia.com); ithasasmallinformation firms. car-rental (open 7amto11pm),andcounters forseveral prepaid SIMcardsforyourmobile phone find auseful Airport Shah SultanAbdulAziz .com.my) www.lcct TerminalLow CostCarrier AirAsia’s are flights handledbythenearby south of Allof thecitycentre atSepang. Airport KL’s main airport is Air GETTING THERE&AWAY ers, camerasand mobile phones. andelectronicgoods,includingcomput- ital 7425; JlnImbi) Bintang) off JlnBukit accessories. and is particularlygoodforyouthfulfashion forhoursyourself exploring.Sungei Wang inter linked mallsinwhich it’seasytolose p96; (Map .sungeiwang.com; JlnSultanIsmail) brands. is strongonbothlocaland inter national complex atthefootof thePetronas Towers andspasonthe in thebasement, 5th floor. luxury brands,plusagreat range of restaurants you’ll findLouisVuitton,Gucciandmanyother platinum charge card–thisglitzy malliswhere ence andwiderange of international labels. arunforitsmoneywithshinyKLCC ambi- shopping extravaganza –itgives theSuria 124 Jln Sultan Ismail) IMC,8 www.cathaypacific.com; Suite22,Level 1,Menara At KLIA’sinternational arrivalhallyou’ll AirAsia’s tickets are online purchased gofrom Airflights Firefly andBerjaya Plaza LowYat Sungei WangPlaza KLCC Suria Starhill Gallery Gallery Starhill . Otherairlineswithofficesin the city: h UL UPR • etn hr wy KUALA LUMPUR There &Away ••Getting

(KLIA; 7am-11pm) % KL Sentral station KL Sentral Mp p96; (Map are theplacestoheadfordig- % 2148 7411; Jln Bukit Bintang) 2148 7411;JlnBukit (Map p96 ; p96 (Map . Tourism Malaysia office Malaysia Tourism

8777 8888; www.klia.com.my) and (Map p96 ; p96 (Map Mp p96; (Map , a Celcom stand selling stand , aCelcom % atSubang,around20km Mp p96; (Map Mp p96; (Map Imbi Plaza Kuala Lumpur International Kuala LumpurInternational % 2141 0088;www.berjaya-air Thisfineshopping % ( %

% 2382 2828;www.suriaklcc (LCC-T; 2716 8615;www.ytlcomm 2148 3651;7Jln1/77, 1300 889933;

( % % % Break outyour (Map (Map p96 ; and 2148 6109;www 2035 2777; 7845 3245;www % are two 8777 8888; BB Plaza ( , 75km % % h 8776 2148 8am- cally taking fivecally taking hours, are operated by Yap Kwan Seng) Avewww.garuda-indonesia.com; BlockD,Megan II,12Jln .com; Level 20, Menara Citibank,165Jln .com; Level 20,Menara Ampang) -airlines.com; AmodaBldg,22 Jln Imbi) Square, 8 Jln Munshi Square, 8JlnMunshi Abdullah) .singaporeair.com; Multi-Purpose, Cap- 10thfl,Menara which leave fromPutra bus station. BharuKota andKualaTerengganu, for buses places leave fromPekeliling and busstation; (for accesstoTaman tothese Negara),buses handlearedoesn’t KualaLipisandJerantut destinationsthatPuduraya only long-distance as welltoSingapore andThailand.The fanoutallover Peninsularservices Malaysia Puduraya, just eastof Chinatown.Fromhere themainonebeing busstations, KL hasseveral Bus AirwaysInternational Thai Airlines Singapore % Royal BruneiAirlines Airlines Malaysia International,JlnSultan .com; 18thfl,Kenanga Ismail) Lufthansa Japan Airlines IndonesianAirlines Garuda China Airlines Aeroline following: the .malaysiaair.com; BangunanMAS, JlnSultan Ismail) .my) Offers at least seven services daily(double-/single- services atleastseven .my) Offers Chulan) www.thaiair.com; 30thfl,WismaGoldhill,67Jln Raja Other bus services toSingapore, typi- Other busservices ugiPtn 42 5hr 34.20 Taiping 22.70 Sungai Petani 5hr Singapore 39.10 3½hr Penang 35 5½hr 29.90 Mersing 5hr 31.30 4hr 12.40 Melaka 5hr 5½hr Lumut 24.50 Kuantan 22 2hr 39.10 4hr Bahru 4hr 30 Ipoh 117.40 Cameron Highlands 31.30 Butterworth 5hr Alor Setar 2½hr Destination Fare LUMPUR INTERSTATE BUS FARES FROMKUALA (RM) Duration 3230 6628; Menara UBN,10Jln 3230 6628;Menara P Ramlee) (Map (Map p96 ; Mp p96; (Map Mp p96; (Map Mp p96; (Map Mp p96; (Map % (Map (Map p100 ; % Mp p6; www.bruneiair.com; p96; (Map 6258 8800;www.aeroline.com % 2052 3428;www.lufthansa % % 2148 9417;www.china 1800-813 366;www.jal Mp p96; (Map Mp p96; (Map % 1300 883000;www 2698 7033;www lonelyplanet.com % % 2034 6999; 2162 2811; KUALA LUMPUR

125 (Map (Map ; pp92-3 is the largest is the largest Transnasional Express Putra bus station , opposite PWTC station PWTC , opposite 4042 9530) % 2070 3300; www.ktb.com.my) FIXED FARES FOR WHOLE TAXI WHOLE TAXI FOR FIXED FARES Destination Fare Fraser’s Hill Cameron Highlands (Tanah Rata) Genting Highlands RM350 Ipoh RM280-300 Johor Bahru RM300 Lumut Melaka RM300 RM600 Penang RM80 RM280 RM500 There are only a few daily services only a few are There to the and journey times For typical adult fares There are services are There (RM42.90, to Kota Bharu On the main runs, servicesOn the main so numerous are Government-owned for the name of the bus company rather than rather the bus company name of for the your destination. % PUTRA BUS STATION PUTRA BUS STATION coast, there are also a number of large-com- also a number of are coast, there servicespany coach from the quieter leaving and less intimidating Jln Kuching; or to PWTC, by taking the LRT (easily reached Putra station). train to Komuter a KTM 9.30am and 9.30pm), Kuantaneight hours, four daily) and Kuala (RM22, four hours, (RM39, seven 10.30am hours, and 10pm). for buses to Thailand, Singapore and some and some for buses Singapore to Thailand, Malaysian destinations. Cameron Highlands and east-coast destina- to departures frequent are tions, but there the day, and at most other places during night try to For the latter, to the main towns. as possible; otherwise, as late shortened leave times on the Lebuhrayamean tollway travel at your destination too early in you’ll arrive the morning. . opposite from KL, see Though buses Puduraya handles to the east that you can sometimes just turn up and get a and get sometimes just turn up that you can seat should the next bus. However, on tickets the day before, at least booked be preferably holiday during peak days before and a few to the Cameronperiods, especially Highlands destinations. east-coast and operation here, with buses to almost all with buses to almost all operation here, destinations. Outside the termi- major at least another are nal, on Jln Pudu, there companies handling tickets dozen private (

8am- 4042 h %

(per bag per day

(Map pp92-3 ; 4256 8218; www.ktb.com 2141 1771; www.transtar %

( (per day per bag RM2;

% 4042 1256; www.plusliner.com) % 2272 1586; www.nice-coaches.com •• Getting & Away There LUMPUR KUALA . left-luggage counter % (Map p96 ; ; p96 (Map (Map p100 ; Pekeliling bus station

8am-8pm) , as well as the tourist police. , as well as the h . There’s a . There’s (Map p100 ; p100 (Map left-luggage counter has departures to Kuala Lipis (RM14.60, has departures Inside are dozens of bus company ticket- of dozens Inside are Transnasional Express .my) Services outside the Old times daily from run three on Jln Sultan HishamuddinKL Train Station to Singapore five daily services(RM88). It also offers Butterworth to Bahru (RM68). to Johor (RM68) and six buses that aren’t leaving for many hours. for many hours. leaving buses that aren’t platforms in the from numbered Buses leave to look basement, that you’ll have and note windows. Staff out destinations, will shout time suits the departure to be sure but check for you, as they sometimes try to sell tickets 11pm) is a station; a few travellers have reported being reported have travellers station; a few at night.robbed late Close to the main en- At the rear trance is an information counter. on Jln Pudu, next to the LRT on Jln Pudu, next to the Plaza Rakyat LRT PUDURAYA BUS STATION BUS STATION PUDURAYA ), a clam- p100 Stay alert at Puduraya (Map orous bus-and-taxi station centrally located and 9pm. via Temerloh. Buses to Genting Highlands via Temerloh. every half-hour(RM6) leave between 6.30am 8am and 8pm; many go via Temerloh (RM10). 8am and 8pm; many go via Temerloh also go hours) (RM15, three Buses to Jerantut Plusliner run services to Kuantan (RM22, four hours), at two-hourly intervals leave which between four hours, six daily) and Raubfour hours, (RM10.80, 2½ six daily). Severalhours, companies including 7256) RM3; next to Titiwangsa LRT and monorail sta- and LRT next to Titiwangsa tions, is PEKELILING BUS STATION PEKELILING BUS STATION Jln Tun Razak the city, just off In the north of Klang (Port Klang; RM3.80), as well as busesKlang (Port Klang; RM3.80), (RM2). Jaya 66 and 75 to Petaling quent buses include U18 to Shah Alam (RM2), quent buses include U18 to Shah 51 for Pelabuhan 710 to Klang (RM3) and From the Klang bus station (Map p100 ), near p100 From the Klang bus station (Map station in Chinatown, fre- Seni LRT the Pasar KLANG BUS STATION KLANG BUS STATION Transtar Travel Nice decker Hotel, Jln outside the Corus RM90/60) from buses of KLCC. just east Ampang, lonelyplanet.com .com.sg) Offers luxury services (RM99) on 16- to Singapore Bus Termi- the Pasarakyat to 31-seater buses leaving from Jln Imbi. nal, Jln Melati, off .my) KUALA LUMPUR Angkasa Raya, Jln Raya, Angkasa Ampang) Ground fl,Federal Hotel,35JlnBukit Bintang) tem, with alllong- trainsdepartingdistance 1200; www.ktmb.com.my) Kuala Lumpuristhehubof the p125. see fares thatare thehighest in Malaysia. sengers, oryoucouldcharter for awholetaxi wait toget afullcomplementof fourpas- Penang. youwillusuallyhave Otherwise to Melaka,coast runstoJohor Bahru, Ipoh and passengers waiting to share on themainwest- the chances are reasonable of findingother (Mapbus station p100 inthemorning ). Early ing abus–departfromupstairs atPuduraya Long-distance –oftentaxis nofaster thantak- Taxi Orix Mayflower Hertz Avis companies: following and 9amto1pmSaturday,includethe ally open9amto5.30pmMondayFriday the airport.Cityoffices, which are gener- system isnotfor way) traffic the timid. navigating thecity’scomplex(andmostlyone- peninsula; for ratessample see p486 . However, KL isthebestplacetohire acarfortouringthe Car 126 Ground fl,KompleksAntarabangsa,JlnSultan Ismail) .mayflowercarrental.com; 18 Jln .mayflowercarrental.com; 18JlnSegambut Pusat) Train Prices should includetollcharges. Forfares, All themajor companieshave at offices aa aau R3 RM28 RM18 RM38 RM29 RM39 RM29 Tumpat - RM22 - - Baharu Wakaf RM8 RM25 Kuala Lipis RM33 RM15 RM15 - Jerantut RM64 Singapore RM68 RM34 RM23 Johor Bahru Tampin RM27 - RM22 RM17 RM7 RM13 RM19 Seremban RM9 Tapah RM17 Rd RM40 RM30 Ipoh - RM18 RM24 Taiping - RM14 RM10 - Butterworth - Padang Besar Superior Economy Destination Premier TRAIN FARES FROMKUALA LUMPUR (Map (Map p96 ; Mp p96; (Map UL UPR • etn rud KUALA LUMPUR Around ••Getting Mp p96; (Map (Off Map Map (Off pp92-3 ; % % % 2144 4487;www.avis.com.my; 2142 3009;www.orixauto.com.my; 2148 6433; www5.hertz.com; 2148 6433;www5.hertz.com; nationalrailwaysys- % 6253 1888;www KTM (

% 2267 you for RM4. ther information see ther informationsee p488 . KTM Komuter charges), butjourneytimesare slow.Forfur- rather thanaberth(forwhich there are extra are cheap, especiallyifyouoptforaseat ThailandandSingapore;Johor Bahru, fares andJerantut), Baharu (forKota Wakaf Baharu h availability. A onschedules andcheckhall canadvise seat information office (Mapfrom KLSentral pp92–3 ). TheKTM .com; adult/child 1-wayRM35/15,return RM70/30) on the The fastest wayof reaching KLfromKLIA is KLIA roads. inner-city jamsthatplaguethe thus avoiding thetraffic a combinationof railandmonorailservices, can happilyget aroundmuch of centralKLon rarely conveniently connected. you Thissaid, they’re an interchange theservices between where andatstations there’s for each service, unintegrated. Different tickets generally apply tems –remain –allbuiltseparately largely and Monorailsystems. Unfortunately thesys- Komuter, KLIA Ekspres, KLIA Transit,LRT urbannetworkconsistingofbased theKTM (MapKL Sentral pp92–3 ) isthehubof arail- opposite ). (see Seremban trains alsolinkKLwiththeKlangValley and To/From theAirports GTIG AROUND GETTING There are dailydepartures for Butterworth, .touchngo.com.my) a thetimetogetyourself taking haps worth orthehighwaysalotit’sper- lic transport an extended periodandplantousepub- If you’re goingtobeinKLorMalaysiafor TOUCH ‘NGO Jamek andDangWangi. stationsKLCC,and thecentralLRT Masjid to RM500,canbepurchasedatKLSentral and canbereloaded withvaluesfromRM20 sites.parking The cards,whichcostRM10 booths acrossthecountryandatselected intheKlangValley,transport athighwaytoll storage cardscanbeusedonallpublic 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat) Touch ‘nGo KLIA Ekspres KLIA Ekspres ticket delivery service delivery ticket

. These credit electronic ( h card ( % 10am-7pm) canget yourticket to

2267 8000;www.kliaekspres ( % 7628 5115;www lonelyplanet.com inthemain ( % ; ittakes 2267 1200; KUALA LUMPUR

(Map 127 Rapid train Metrobus or runs between information booth 2273 1888; www.klmonorail 6am-midnight) % (

h 2267 1200; www.ktmb.com.my) at the Jln Sultan Mohammed % ( . There’s an . There’s monorail 7am-9pm) 1800-388 228; www.rapidkl.com.my) 5635 3070) h % Local buses leave from half a dozen small Local buses leave Since KL’s inexpensive taxis and reliable taxis and reliable Since KL’s inexpensive KL buses are the easiest to use the easiest as desti- KL buses are ( % KTM Komuter Trains KTM Komuter Trains KTM Komuter services use KL Sentral are as a hub. There Seremban and Sentul two lines: Rawang to stops include Mid Klang. Useful to Pelabuhan Subang Megamall), (for the Mid Valley Valley Market (on Jln Hang Kasturi), Lebuh Ampang Kasturi), (on Jln Hang Market and the Kota Raya (on Jln department store . p100 Map Cheng Lock); see efficient, not prone to more are systems LRT there’s stuck in trafficget and air-conditioned, little point in using buses except for trips to ). p131 ( Caves as the Batu such outlying areas, KL Monorail KL’s zippy .com.my; RM1.20-2.50; KL Sentral in the in the south to Titiwangsa service handy north. It’s a very linking up the city’s sightseeing and pro- many of areas you go. tour as air-con viding a cheap divided into four classes, and tickets are valid are divided into four classes, and tickets bus. Basall day on the same Bandar of class starting(routes RM2) services with B, run Bas Utama (routes around the city centre. starting with U, RM2) buses run from the (routes to the suburbs. Bas Tempatan centre starting buses with T, RM1) run around the starting (routes with E, suburbs. Bas Ekspres buses distant to suburbs. express RM4) are all covering ticket You can also buy an all-day cover- buses (RM4) and a ticket non-express trains (RM7). ing all Rapid KL buses and bus stands around the city – useful stops in Chinatown include Jln Sultan Mohamed Seni), Klang bus station(by Pasar (south of Seni), BangkokPasar Bank (on Lebuh Pudu), (on Lebuh Ampang), Central Pasar Medan SULTAN ABDUL AZIZ SHAH AIRPORT AIRPORT SHAH AZIZ ABDUL SULTAN the Sultan to reach easiest way The a taxi is to take Airport Aziz Shah Abdul (around RM40). Bus several smaller companies, are Although there by either provided most buses KL are in KL ( clearly displayed. KL buses are nations are bus stop in Chinatown. bus stop p100 ;

also (adult/child

Airport Coach Aerobus (www.skybus.com.my; (www.skybus.com.my;

Skybus (adult/child 1-way RM35/15) (adult/child 1-way •• Getting Around LUMPUR KUALA ; services depart at least every 15 which takes an hour to KL Sentral; takes which

, KL Transit train KL Transit train or the slightly cheaper or the slightly cheaper 87873894; www.airportcoach.com.my; 1-way/return If you’re changing to a flight on AirAsia, to a flight on AirAsia, changing If you’re Taxis from KLIA operate on a fixed-fare on a fixed-fare operate from KLIA Taxis The cheapest option is the The cheapest If flying from KL on Malaysia Airlines, Airlines, If flying from KL on Malaysia The % around RM65. exit. A taxi from the city to LCC-T will cost from the LCC-T, prepaid taxis charge RM62 taxis charge from the LCC-T, prepaid to Chinatown or Jln Bukit Bintang (50% from midnight to 6am). Buy your more coupon at the desk near the arrival hall minutes from 4.30am to 12.45pm. Travelling from 4.30am to 12.45pm. Travelling minutes jump on either the RM9) To reach the LCC-T (Low Cost Carrier the LCC-T (Low Cost Carrier To reach from KL Sentral and vice versa, Terminal) LCC-T LCC-T taxi between the two airports costs RM33. taxi between two airports the LCC-T – it runs every 20 minutes from from LCC-T – it runs every 20 minutes is RM1.50. 6am to midnight and the fare to can use get this bus to Penny-pinchers Nilai (RM3.50) to connect with the KTM train to KL SentralKomuter (RM4.70). A RM65 from Chinatown or Jln Bukit Bintang. RM65 from Chinatown or Jln Going to the airport by taxi, make sure that sure Going to the airport by taxi, make includes tolls; expect to pay fare the agreed the aggressive pirate taxis pirate that hassle you to the aggressive ringgit for the same ride. hundred pay a few will take around one hour. Buy your taxi cou- around one hour. will take you exit the arrivals hall, to avoid pon before people RM93.40, and family-sized minivans seating up to eight RM180.40. The journey coupon system. Standard taxiscoupon system. cost RM67.10 taxis for four people), premier (up to three the terminal. RM10/18) you for RM18, however, also take it will from KLIA and to any central KL hotel for RM25. journey pick-up for the return inside The bus stand is clearly signposted ( you can check your baggage in at KL Sentral your baggage you can check to KLIA. making your way before connects KLIA with KL Sentral,connects KLIA at but stops Tinggi, (Salak stations other en route three and Cyberjaya, Bandar and Putrajaya Tasik Selatan), taking 35 minutes. about can continue to your destination by KMT by KMT to your destination can continue or taxi. Monorail LRT, Komuter, 28 minutes and departs every 15 minutes be- every and departs 15 minutes 28 minutes tween KL Sentral 1am. From 5am and you lonelyplanet.com Cathay Pacific, Royal Brunei or Emirates Royal Brunei or Emirates Cathay Pacific, there’s a shuttle bus between a shuttle KLIA and the there’s 1-way RM8/4) KUALA LUMPUR www.rapidkl.com.my) RM125 including Rapid RM125 includingRapid KL buses). a monthlycombinedtravel card(RM90or to beinKLforawhile,considerinvesting in minutes from6amto11.45pm.Ifyou’re going ticket machines. sixto10 Trainsrunevery buy tickets fromthecashierorelectronic also covers Youcan KLbuses. youforRapid you canbuyanall-daypassforRM7,which journey fares range fromRM1toRM2.80,or as youenter andexitviaturnstiles.Single- blocksdown tors, orwalkseveral the street. offollow aseries walkways,stairs andeleva- one linetoanother,andyoumayalsohave to a result, anewticket youneed tochange from were constructed bydifferent companies.As network ispoorlyintegrated thelines because Kelana Jaya/Terminal Putra. the However, Timur,Sentul SriPetaling/Sentul Timur and (LRT) system. There are three lines:Ampang/ As wellasthe buses, Light RailTransit(LRT) stop. one 6am to11.45pm.Tickets fromRM1for start 15to20minutesevery fromapproximately toSumatra).Trainsrun (for ferry services local bustotheairports)andPelabuhan Klang Jaya Nilai(forthecheap (forSunwayLagoon), 128 An electroniccontrolsystem checks tickets UL UPR • etn rud KUALA LUMPUR Around ••Getting runs the Light Rail Transit Rail runstheLight Rapid KL Rapid ( % 1800-388 228; neys. Taxi drivers lingering outsideluxury theirmeter foralljour- theymustuse says are reluctant to stop. it ispossibletowave onedown,somedrivers andalthough stands, cially signposted taxi will often onlystopatthenumerousoffi- baggage youdon’thave. aware thattaxis Be included spuriousextracharges, such asfor for areceipt theyhaven’t andcheck tosee area, Alwaysask inmoderate even traffic. acrossthecentralcity than RM10togoright well is KL Sentral. toworkreasonably seem pon systems does tem. Theoneplace where thepre-paid cou- usingapre-paidodds fortaxis couponsys- you’llalsopayoveron JlnBukitBintang) the iour. ranks(ieoutsideBBPlaza Atsometaxi Gardens are especiallyguiltyof thisbehav- hotels orin touristhotspotssuch astheLake book acab, italsocosts RM1 extra. placed inthebootcostsanextraRM1.Ifyou than two)are charged each. Luggage 20sen the metered fare, andextrapassengers (more to6amthere’smidnight asurcharge of 50%on foreach 200m.From an additional10sen atRM2forthefirststarting kilometre, with KL hasplentyof andfares taxis, are cheap, Taxi For reference, bymeter itcostsnomore driversNot alltaxi followthelaw,which lonelyplanet.com © Lonely Planet lonelyplanet.com

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