M&S: Kidswear From Newborns to Young Adults: How M&S has dressed generations of kids

1920s The 1920s saw the introduction of childrenswear, first mentioned in our Weekly Bulletin for staff in 1930s 1927. We offered free knitting patterns for our customers as well as selling ready made outfits.

Free Knitting Pattern, 1930s 1930s We opened lots of new ‘Super Stores’, accompanied by a nationwide newspaper advertising campaign featuring the slogan ‘The Family Store’.

Newspaper advert for Kirkcaldy store, 1938 1930s Childrenswear was often promoted as part of our store window displays to showcase the quality, style and range of childrenswear available.

‘Nursery Shoes’ window display, 1930s

‘Our Children’s Frocks’ window display, 1930s 1932 St Michael Childrenswear was advertised in our new customer magazine to inform parents of the availability of children’s ranges.

Marks and Spencer Magazine, Christmas 1932

Marks and Spencer Magazine, Christmas 1932

1930s-1940s Childrenswear. was displayed in store by type, e.g. all girls’ dresses were arranged together. Store Display of Dresses, c1936-1941 1941-1945 Childrenswear continued to be sold throughout the Second World War. Our technologists helped develop Utility clothing standards, a set of rules for dressmakers under the Civilian Clothing Act of 1941, to ensure garment quality remained high and fabric wasn’t wasted.

We were able to produce a range of Utility clothing that was not only functional and hardwearing but stylish. Utility Clothing labels 1946 After the war, the primary concern of our technologists was to develop new fabrics to help make good design available to everyone.

A new textile laboratory opened to explore nylons, plastics and other synthetic materials, resulting in man- made fabrics that were easy-wash, easy-care and fade-resistant.

M&S Technology Laboratory, c1950 1950s Post war, we carried lessons learned forward, focusing on quality-tested products, made with crease resistant fabrics and colour fast technology. These St Michael ‘juvenile fashions’ are advertised as ‘practical and gay.’

Store Display of Juvenile Dresses, 1950s

1950s All our products carried a swing tag that highlighted their unique quality credentials. This casual wear corduroy boyswear was labelled as ‘showerproof, fast colour and fully lined.’

Swing Tag, c1950s 1950s One of our biggest sellers throughout the 1950s was girls’ dresses. Inspired by Christian Dior’s ‘New Look’ style with nipped in waists and full gathered skirts, this on-trend design was sold in various designs and colourways.

Edinburgh Store Display of Dresses, 1950s

St Michael News, Apr 1957

1954 In February, clothing for children was the focus of a special edition of our staff magazine. We label ourselves ‘playwear pioneers’, offering the biggest share of playwear on the market. We advertise our new styles including smocking on our girls’ dresses.

St Michael News, Feb 1954 T74/12, c1955 1954 In April, footwear for children is the focus of a children’s footwear special in our staff magazine.

We also advertise children’s underwear, including interlock knickers and ‘pantees’ without the elastic being stitched down. This meant broken elastic could be replaced with no fuss.

St Michael News, Apr 1954 1958 In our first colour advert, we promoted the company as a fashion brand with a four page spread of specially commissioned photography in ‘Woman’ magazine, which included girls' dresses.

M&S Colour Supplement in ‘Woman’ Magazine, May 1958

1960 We introduced new underwear styles for girls. Nylon slips with stiff paper taffeta frills to achieve a full skirt were available for ages 5-16.

St Michael News, May 1960 1960 For the first time we now offered a full range of childrenswear clothing in every store. We also start trialling Bri-lon jumpers and cardigans.

1960 In February, new sizing by age meant M&S clothing could fit 7 out of 10 children perfectly. Our staff magazine reported: ‘Mum no longer has to remember a lot of size

markings for different St Michael News, Apr 1960 types of children’s clothing, now she just needs to go by ages.’ St Michael News Supplement, 1960

1962 We advertised a new and improved fit for Gabardines, which were a popular option for children’s coats. The new coats had easier fitting across the chest and shoulders, more capacious pockets, stronger belt loops, a special finish to the hem to avoid shine when the fabric is pressed, and a stronger hanger insertion at the neck. Girl’s gabardine coats could now be bought with a matching detachable hood.

St Michael News, Dec 1962 Early 1960s Childrenswear was featured in cinema adverts as part of a wider advertising campaign designed to draw attention to ‘wonder fabrics’ like Acrilan, Orlon and nylon which were easy-care and easy-wear. The childrenswear advert ‘What is a Child?’ stated ‘a child comes in one hundred shapes and sizes, St Michael Orlon fits them all.’

‘What is a Child?’cinema advert, c1965

Orlon jumper, T77/26, c1960s

1963 ‘Acrilan’ was featured in St Michael News and appears in cinema ads promoting clothing for all the family.

St Michael News, 1963 1960s-1970s An emerging teen market resulted in ranges ‘Junior Miss’ and ‘Young St Michael’ and later ‘Miss Michelle,’ being established. These were completely separate ranges to childrenswear, 'designed to suit the tastes and figures of the in-betweens’.

St Michael News, 1970s 1970 We circulated a children's clothing supplement for school and leisure wear, including illustrations of the new products being sold in modern fabrics and styles such as pointed collars on shirts and flared trousers.

Fashion Supplement, Jul 1970

Marketing leaflet, 1977 1971 Our childrenswear was marketed as ‘Trendy, colourful, hard-wearing and easy-care – kids love ‘em’. St Michael News, Mar 1971 1973 We highlighted our easy-care versatile ranges, with mix and match trousers, skirts and jackets in brushed denim, cotton and Crimplene.

St Michael News, Mar 1973 St Michael News, Apr/May 1973 1973 Embroidered motifs made without embroidery was our new scientific advance. The motifs were welded rather than stitched on and could be found on children’s beachwear and girl’s dresses.

1973 In November, a new foot measure was introduced in children’s footwear. The device was promoted as the ‘only one of its kind in the world.’

St Michael News, Nov 1973 1979 In Spring, we launched Babywear as a separate department with the range going up to 18 months. By Autumn, the range focused on playwear and sleepsuits in warmer materials like velour and towelling. Practicalities like machine washability became the prime focus. St Michael News, Nov 1979 1979 To make sure our childrenswear could withstand the roughest of wearing, it underwent rigorous testing which resulted in: very hard wearing materials, seams that don’t split easily, stay-put buttons, non-rusting buckles, permanent pleats and machine washable items.

St Michael News, Feb 1976

St Michael News, 1987 1970s-1980s Clothing and accessories with much loved children’s characters were a firm favourite among youngsters. Characters such as Paddington Bear, Mickey Mouse

and Winnie the Pooh began to appear across St Michael News, Jan childrenswear and babywear. 1987

1980s The sports trend was a major theme in clothing ranges throughout the 1980s, including joggers and shell-suits, all in keeping with the fitness trend.

St Michael News, Jun 1984 T88/6, 1984 1980 In February, we centralised our childrenswear. bringing it together into one department. Previously split across men’s and women’s sections, the new childrenswear department also included babywear.

St Michael News, Feb 1980 1983 Coordination was a key theme in Spring with mix ‘n’ match colours and fabrics specially selected so that tops and bottoms could team up together.

St Michael News, Mar 1983

1984 We began to display childrenswear by age group.

St Michael News, Apr 1985 1985 In April, we opened our first separate satellite store for kidswear in York with a 5,000 square foot store dedicated to childrenswear, toys, books and nursery York Coppergate Store, Apr 1985 P1/1/325/12 furniture. 1986 In the Autumn, we launched a new look for older girls, with a ‘fashion conscious’ range of casual clothes. The range included skinny leggings, straight skirts, polo neck jumpers and sweatshirts. Older boyswear was also updated for the fashion conscious teen with key pieces such as styled knitwear, casual jackets and shirts.

St Michael News, Aug 1986 1986 We launched our first range of children’s ski-wear including all-in-one suits, a jacket with zip out sleeves and salopettes. Matching accessories included boots, hats, goggles and coordinating knitwear.

St Michael News, Sep 1986

1987 We launched our first ever washable garments with holograms produced St Michael News, May 1989 using laser light. Designs included animals and space scenes. M&S’s 1989 Senior Technologist described it as a As part of our Summer range we ‘fashion first’. included machine washable canvas pumps in both toddler and older ranges. 1991 Our St Michael News magazine reported: ‘A lot of work goes into the comfort and fit of every garment. Selectors and technologists carry out regular fit sessions with children in schools and extensive wearer trials’ to ensure that garments are comfortable to wear and safe.

St Michael News, Sep 1991

1992 We introduced 100% cotton nightwear with a special flame retardant finish that makes it safe and comfortable.

We also introduced four ‘teen bras’ which offer light support in sizes 30AA to 36B.

St Michael News, Jul/Aug 1992

1994 The nineties showed a trend towards a casual layered look with relaxed-fitting separates that could be layered together. M&S responded so that children could be on trend with double denim and loose fitting shirts.

Marketing, Aug 1994 1996 By summer, the widest range of high quality, value for money children’s footwear was available. The range included ‘pre-walkers’ and shoes for those all important first steps. A new range of ‘first shoes’ in F and G widths were introduced to give extra room for Toddler feet.

We also introduced a measuring electronic gauge to measure the child’s foot size and width, to help parents choose a correctly fitting shoe for their Girls’ Shoes, Aug 1996 child.

Measuring Electronic Gauge in Store, 1996

1997 In preparation for the 1998 World Cup we launched football kits promoted with England player Les Ferdinand, just in time for Christmas. 1998 We launched Petit Bebe in Babywear. The range included daywear and St Michael News, Dec 1997 sleepwear in blue, pink and white colour ranges. An extended range of christening wear including rompers and dresses was added. Marketing for Petit Bebe, 1998 1999 A revolutionary new range was introduced for children with skin complaints. It was developed with the full support of the National Eczema Society and the Great Ormond Street Hospital. With soft smooth fabric developed using antibacterial yarn and flat seams with super soft threads, the Chitopoly range is designed to minimise irritation and to ensure comfort.

Press Release, Jul 1999

2002 David Beckham worked with M&S to create the ‘DB07’ range, named after the ‘7’ shirt he famously wore for Manchester United and Marketing Campaign with David Beckham, 2003 England. 2003 In March, we launch ‘Angel’, our first bra range for youngsters to sit inside our Lingerie department. Designed to be ‘fashionable, fun and functional with non wired bras and knickers’ this range included everyday, sports and multiway lines.

Angel Range, 2014 Angel Press Pack Cover, 2003 2005 We began to introduce a larger range of Halloween costumes. Babywear was also included with little devils and tiny pumpkins. Availability went from online only into stores as demand increased.

Marketing, Oct 2005

2005 In the run up to Christmas a larger range of character Marketing, Oct 2006 costumes were available including Alice in Wonderland Marketing, Dec 2005 and reindeer onesies in babywear.

Marketing, Dec 2005 2006 We became the first major UK retailer to sell organic Fairtrade cotton clothing, including childrenswear, as sustainability became a top priority in the way our business functions.

T88/7,2006 2007 We developed a line of fashion exclusively designed for our customers in the Middle East for Ramandan and Eid celebrations. The range included special occasion outfits and accessories. This was followed up in our UK stores.

M&S Website, 2020 2007 ‘Autograph’ for children was introduced as a response to a gap in the market for high- end childrenswear. This range was designed with both smart-casual clothing and something extra special in mind for special occasions. As part of the Bridalwear range we T88/26, 2010 launched special occasion floral girls’ dresses as well as boys’ full suited outfits. This was extended to offer a range suitable for First Holy Communions.

2007 We linked our girlswear in with womenswear and our boyswear in with menswear – leading to fashionable ‘Mini Me’ outfits, with carefully chosen details and trends, appropriate for the age group.

Marketing, Spring 2007 Girls’ Jumpsuit, 2019, ACC/19/002(7) 2009 We began to use the term ‘Kidswear’ instead of ‘Childrenswear.’

As part of our 125 year anniversary celebrations we created a special range of Kidswear to mark the occasion.

Your M&S Magazine, 2009 2009 We created the ‘Living the Dream’ boyswear range, in collaboration with the Vodafone McLaren Mercedes F1 team. We were the first British retailer

to work with the F1 team. The range Your M&S Magazine, 2009 incorporated the personal logos of drivers Lewis Hamilton and Heikki Kovalainen, with hoodies and cargo 2010 trousers being the key pieces for this We launched ‘Limited Collection’ for capsule collection. older boys and girls with the range designed to be fashionable and on trend with the age range extending to 16 years. The marketing campaign included a photoshoot with famous fashion photographer Rankin.

Your M&S, Sep 2010 2010 Following on from a successful collection of M&S womenswear, the designer Zandra Rhodes created a range of girlswear for M&S, all inspired T74/30. Zandra Rhodes dress, 2010 by her extensive print archive. 2016 We launched augmented-reality T-shirts where designs came to life ‘from monkeys swinging through trees to bears scaling skyscrapers’ with the download of an app on your smart device (IOS or Android). These T-shirts didn’t just move but leapt out at the audience.

M&S Website, Apr 2016 2016 British supermodel Jourdan Dunn collaborated with M&S to launch ‘Lil' LonDunn’, a range of kidswear clothing designed to be unisex and versatile with an urban style.

M&S World, May 2016

M&S Website, 2016 2016 Summer 2016 saw the launch of ‘Easy Dressing,’ an M&S first. A range specifically designed for children living with disabilities such as hip dysplasia & autism, with clothing specially adapted with hidden labels, easy to open fastenings, slits to aid the use of a feeding tube and the use of super-soft materials making comfort the key priority.

Originally launched as schoolwear, by 2018 we had increased the range to cover a range of daywear.

M&S Website, 2018 2017 The trend for matching Christmas family PJs began.

M&S World, Christmas 2018 2019 We launched sustainable kid’s swimwear which used fabric made using recycled plastic bottles and also featured our SunSafe technology with a UPF (ultraviolet protection factor) of 50+ and Chlorine Resist technology.

M&S Website, 2019

2019-2020 We launched our Dreamskin® range, which was specially developed with Dreamskin® technology to help ease dry, sensitive and irritated skin. The garments had supersoft flat seams and printed care instructions for sensitive baby skin. With integral scratch mitts across all sizes, and nickel free popper fastening for easy dressing, this range is designed for comfort with responsibly sourced cotton and is validated by the British Skin Foundation, recognising M&S’s commitment to

skin care. M&S Website, Jun 2020