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BMC Climbing Injury Symposium 2016 Speaker Biographies

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BMC Climbing Injury Symposium 2016 Speaker Biographies BMC Climbing Injury Symposium 2016 Speaker Biographies Volker Schöffl Professor Dr. Volker Schöffl, MHBA Volker is a Fellow in General Surgery, Trauma surgery and orthopaedic surgery, Sports Medicine and Team Physician of the German Climbing and Expedition Team. Member of Medical Commissions (MedCom) for the UIAA (International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation) and for IFSC (International Federation of Sports Climbing); Head of the Department of Sports Orthopaedics – Sports Medicine, specialising in shoulder and elbow surgery at Klinikum Bamberg and University Erlangen-Nuremberg, Germany. Volker has done many first ascents up to Fr.8b and has been on many climbing expeditions. He is an acknowledged expert on climbing injuries with more than 50 scientific papers to his name. He also co-wrote the influential book translated in several languages ‘One Move too many: How to understand the injuries and overuse syndromes of rock climbing’. Isabelle Schöffl Dr.rer.biol.hum. Isabelle Schöffl, MD, PhD, MSc, Dipl.biol Dept. of Paediatrics, Klinikum Bamberg and Department of Anatomy, University Erlangen-Nuremberg, FRG. Isabelle has published many scientific papers on the biomechanics of the hand and fingers, and is currently working in the Department of Paediatrics. She has climbed for 12 years and has done many first ascents in Germany and Asia. Waqar Bhatti Professor Dr.Musculo-skeletal Radiology, FRCS, DMRD, FRCR Waqar Bhatti organised and directed the first comprehensive Musculoskeletal ultrasound imaging service in Manchester on his appointment to the University Hospital South Manchester. Services offered included the introduction of the first dedicated finger ultrasound service, imaging for forefoot disorders and other more common problems such as Shoulder, Elbow, Wrist, Hip and knee disorders. Waqar has been actively involved with inter-disciplinary research collaborations with our Department of Hand and Plastic Surgery University of Manchester. Through these research activities he has been actively involved in presentations nationally and internationally at the Radiological Society of North America, Chicago where he was awarded a CUM LAUDE for work presented on Ultrasound of Finger flexor tendon imaging. Injury Symposium 2016: Speaker Biographies Simon Fryer Dr. MSc, BA (Hons), SFHEA Simon is a senior lecturer in Sport and Exercise Physiology and the Director of Laboratories at the University of Gloucestershire, UK. He is a founding member of the International Rock Climbing Research Association and completed his PhD in rock climbing psychophysiology under the supervision of Professor Nick Draper. Simon now specializes in non-invasive assessments of vascular function in both athletes, and patients with metabolic diseases Simon is a keen outdoor enthusiast who has been recreationally climbing for 17 years in the UK, Europe and New Zealand, and has led expeditions in the Himalayas and the Andes. Additionally Simon races on the enduro mountain bike circuit and has been coaching white water kayaking for a number of years. Dave MacLeod Climbing coach, climber and author Dave is a professional climber based in the highlands of Scotland. He has been climbing for 20 years and is recognised as one of the best all-round climbers in the world, climbing 9a sport routes, Font 8C boulders, E11 trad routes, grade XI mixed routes and made hundreds of first ascents around Scotland and the greater mountain ranges of the world. He is also a world renowned climbing coach, writing the popular blog The online climbing coach since 2006. His first book, 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes is an international bestselling climbing improvement text. He has just released his second book, Make or Break, on how to prevent and manage climbing injuries. Dave’s best known routes are Rhapsody, the world’s first E11 trad route, Echo Wall, E11 on Ben Nevis, The Longhope Route E9 on St John’s Head, Project Fear 8a+ on the north face of Cima Ovest and Disco 2000 8a+ in Arctic Norway. Michail Michailov PhD, Department Theory and Methodology of Sports Training, National Sports Academy, Sofia, Bulgaria; MedCom UIAA Michail is an Associated Professor at the National Sports Academy where he teaches Theory and Methodology of Sports Training. He is interested in scientific support in elite sport and has served at the Directorate of Control and Management of Sports Preparation, Ministry of Physical Education and Sports, Sofia, Bulgaria. Michail is a member of the UIAA medical commission and is a dedicated researcher of rock climbing performance and physiology. He has published scientific articles on climbing and two books about sport training. Michail has the honor to assist the Bulgarian sport climbing team with sport- specific work capacity diagnostics and methodological advice. Recently he developed a new generation system for comprehensive performance assessment of finger strength and endurance testing in rock climbing. Michail is an enthusiastic climber with some rock climbing experience. He has climbed Trango Nameless Tower, Karakorum, Pakistan, 1998 and has a first ascent on the unclimbed peak Levski (5733 m) in Khane Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan, 2012. Injury Symposium 2016: Speaker Biographies Audry Morrison BSc (Human Nutrition), RNutr Audry is a registered sport nutritionist and climber. She has a special interest in climbing metabolism and nutritional issues related to improvements in all types of climbing performance. She is a corresponding member of the Medical Commission for the UIAA (International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation). She has co-authored scientific papers on climbing physiology and injuries, and contributed chapters to ‘Moderne Berg-und Hohenmedizin’ (2010) (‘Modern Mountain and Altitude Medicine’), a guidebook growing in popularity which is being currently being translated into English. Audry has been a keynote speaker internationally on climbing metabolism at sea level and at altitude. Contact: [email protected] Stewart Watson MSK Physiotherapist Stewart is a physiotherapist based in Tirol, Austria. He is a member of the Chartered Society of Physiotherapy, with a special interest in sport injury management and prevention. Plays a role in the injury management of some of the top athletes on the current competition climbing circuit. An all-round climber enjoying competitions, bouldering, alpine and sport climbing. Injury Symposium 2016: Speaker Biographies .
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