JOHN MUIR TRUST 10 The case for greater wild land protection 14 Examining the role JOURNAL of National Parks 22 Tales from the north 51 autumn 11 face of Ben Nevis Love wild places? Then join us. Glorious vistas, fresh air, freedom and well-being in the great outdoors – the John Muir Trust is about all of these things and more. For us and our members, wildness is essential. That uplifting feeling you get in the natural world, close to wildlife, absorbing distant horizons. That’s why we work to protect and enhance wild places for us and for future generations.

If you’d like to join us, call 0131 554 0114 or email [email protected] CONTENTS 03

REGULARS

04 Foreword from the Chairman 06 News round-up 21 Testimonial Ben Nevis Distillery – the spirit of a wild place 32 Classic texts Island Years, Island Farm, Frank Fraser Darling 33 Book reviews A Dip in the Ocean – Rowing Solo across the Indian, Sarah Outen; My First Summer in the Sierra, John Muir, 100th Anniversary Illustrated Edition. Photographs by Scot Miller; It’s a Fine Day for the Hill, Adam Watson 34 Our properties: Glenlude, Scottish Borders Introducing the John Muir Trust’s latest property

FEATURES

10 Time to act The John Muir Trust believes there is a strong case for improving statutory protection of wild land across the UK– with time of the essence 14 What next for our National Parks? A look back at the creation of the National Park system in England and Wales and some of the threats these special areas face today 18 Covering tracks Celebrating the successful restoration of a major hill track on the Mar Lodge Estate in the Cairngorms 22 Tales from the top Tall tales from a high-altitude day on Ben Nevis as part of the countdown to the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games 24 Working with National Parks The John Muir Award’s links with a variety of National Parks provide an important UK-wide presence 26 Walk the line Thoughts from a mammoth walk along Scotland’s watershed

JOURNAL 51, AUTUMN 11 PITLOCHRY OFFICE Editor: Richard Rowe John Muir Trust email: [email protected] Tower House, Station Road, Managing Editor: Susan Wright Pitlochry PH16 5AN telephone: email: [email protected] 01796 470 080 fax: 01796 473 514 Design and production: Various Creative email: [email protected] LEITH OFFICE This Journal is printed on Revive 100 Uncoated John Muir Trust stock, a recycled grade paper containing 100% 41 Commercial Street, post-consumer waste and manufactured at Edinburgh EH6 6JD a mill accredited with ISO 14001 environmental telephone: management standard. The pulp used in this 0131 554 0114 product is bleached using an Elemental Chlorine fax: 0131 555 2112 Free (ECF) process. We use a Scottish printer, Thomson Colour, who have excellent environmental www.jmt.org credentials, achieving environmental standard ISO 4001 in 2006 and the FSC and PEFC [email protected] standards in 2006. If you would rather receive your publications from the John Muir Trust electronically, please Cover photography email [email protected] First Light, Old Man of Storr, Isle of Skye © 2011 – LIGHTSTALKERS SCOTLAND The John Muir Trust is a Scottish charitable GLEN C CAMPBELL company limited by guarantee. Registered office: Inside front cover photography Tower House, Station Road, Pitlochry PH16 5AN Beinn na Caillich, one of the SHIRLEY GRANT Charity No. SC002061 Red Cuillin on Skye Company No. SC081620 © SHIRLEY GRANT WWW.SHIRLEYGRANT.CO.UK PHOTOGRAPH: PHOTOGRAPH: 04 FOREWORD Continuing our focus on JOHN MUIR TRUST JOURNAL preserving wild land AUTUMN 2011 DOMINIC DONNINI PHOTOGRAPH: PHOTOGRAPH: From the Chairman

John Hutchison introduces an issue of the Journal that does much to reinforce the John Muir Trust’s focus on highlighting the value of wild land and wild places

Another character-forming walk for Elsewhere (p14), Ruth Chambers from me was my ‘First Class Journey’ while the Campaign for National Parks explores in the Scouts in the early 1960s, with the the question of whether National Parks 50-mile route finishing via Glenlude in in England and Wales are ‘working’ and the Scottish Borders. For this reason, to what extent they are achieving their the Glenlude estate which is now in aims. At the time of writing, I am involved our portfolio has a special resonance with a group that is assessing the need and John Thomas’s article (p34) takes for more integrated management of me back to those days when I tentatively Glencoe and Nevis, so this analysis ventured further afield from Edinburgh. is particularly useful for me. Our Chief Executive, Stuart Brooks, Talk of Nevis leads me to one of the most RORY SYME explores the need for a wild land inspiring days I have had on the hill for designation and the role it can play in some time when I joined 25 others to be restoring, maintaining and preserving enthralled by climber Dave MacLeod’s

PHOTOGRAPH: PHOTOGRAPH: outstanding parts of our landscape. guided exploration of the north face of We will continue to take a strong lead Ben Nevis. An event that was part of a in this, working with governments, UK-wide series of celebrations marking Welcome to the Autumn 2011 edition natural heritage and environmental ‘One Year to Go’ to the London 2012 of the Journal, as we again celebrate our protection agencies and other NGOs Olympic and Paralympic Games, the day work and the beautiful landscapes held throughout the UK. was blessed with excellent weather as we in guardianship for the future. That land, One of these NGOs – the National Trust learned first-hand of Dave’s mental and plus our members and staff, are our most for Scotland – features in Shaila Rao’s physical approach to his craft (see p22). precious assets. I hope you will agree that article on the often intricate ecological Whether a member, supporter or staff this Journal transmits our enthusiasm to work involved in the restoration of the in the John Muir Trust, I hope that you ‘educate, conserve and inspire’. Beinn a’ Bhùird hill track on the Mar enjoy this Journal as a celebration of As a Lochaber resident, I’m pleased to Lodge Estate (p18). While this is located our work and the landscapes in our care. see the testimonial from the local Ben deep in the Cairngorms National Park, Please come back to us with comments, Nevis Distillery, where Manager Colin we can read too in Rob Bushby’s account ideas and opinions or simply to let us Ross has been an enthusiastic supporter how our work with the John Muir Award know what you would like to see in of our work for some time. We deeply continues to forge strong links with other future editions. appreciate and are greatly encouraged National Parks around the UK (p24). by such support from our corporate members. John Hutchison chairman In this issue, our educational theme john muir trust runs through book reviews such as Frank Fraser Darling’s Island Years, Island Farm (see page 32) and Muir’s own My First Summer in the Sierra (p33), both veritable classics. I hope that Ribbon of Wildness, Peter Wright’s book about his epic watershed walk through Scotland, will become a classic, too. The interview with Peter (p26) provides an engaging segue from Nic Bullivant’s article in the last Journal which recounted a wild walk from Glen Clova to Beinn Alligin –pretty well reversing the route of one of my own TGO Challenges from a few years ago. ROB BUSHBY

Wild ridge (opposite): Striding Edge in the Lake District National Park; PHOTOGRAPH: the north face of Ben Nevis (right) 06 NEWS JOHN MUIR TRUST JOURNAL AUTUMN 2011

WILDLIFE AWARD FOR ARGYLL The first beaver families were released WALK ON THE QUIET SIDE BEAVERS in May 2009 as part of a five-year trial Visitors to Loch Ness can now explore The Scottish Beaver Trial in Knapdale, reintroduction and are now settled in the less-travelled south side of this Argyll has won the prestigious Lonely their new home in Knapdale. The trial, famous Scottish loch with greater Planet Wildlife Comeback Award. The a partnership project between the ease, thanks to the opening of a new award celebrates the trial as a must- Royal Zoological Society of Scotland, 45-kilometre trail taking in the best see tourist destination over the last the Scottish Wildlife Trust and host the area has to offer. partner Forestry Commission Scotland, 12 months and recognises the site’s The South Loch Ness Trail, which was growing popularity. aims to determine how beavers will prosper in Scottish habitats and to officially launched in August, creates “We’re absolutely delighted to have assess their impact on the current a continuous, managed track along the received this award as only 24 were Scottish environment. south side of the loch, offering an ideal given across the whole world,” way primarily for walkers, as well as commented Simon Jones, Scottish The independent scientific monitoring off-road cyclists and horse riders, to Beaver Trial Project Manager.“This of the beavers is being undertaken by enjoy the surrounding landscape. The is a huge accolade and fantastic Scottish Natural Heritage, and it is their trail, which runs from Loch Tarff near recognition for the project and for final report at the trial’s conclusion that Fort Augustus in the west to Torbreck the local area.” will help to decide the long-term future on the outskirts of Inverness in the east, for beavers in Scotland. connects existing and upgraded tracks Beavers are native to the UK and were with new sections along the way. once a common sight before they were Alternately bordered by steep moorland hunted to extinction by man in the and dense pine forests, highlights of the 16th century. Beavers are known as trail include the falls at Foyers (of Rabbie a ‘keystone’ species in that they bring Burns fame), the site of an Iron Age fort many benefits to wetland environments at Inverfarigaig and the finest surviving and improve habitats for a variety of example of a single span General Wade other species. More than 20 European bridge dating from the 18th century. countries have already reintroduced beavers back into the wild. Trail users are guided by way markers and informed by interpretation panels to “The beavers have been busy constructing help them understand a local environment lodges and building dams, as well as that is rich in flora and fauna (maybe enjoying swimming in the lochs, all including a certain mythical beastie). of which provide a great spectacle for those visitors fortunate enough to catch The opening of the trail is part of an a glimpse of these amazing creatures,” ambitious long-term tourism plan for explained Jones. “We’re delighted that the area with the Destination Loch Ness the Lonely Plant Awards will raise the organisation working in partnership with profile of the project and highlight the other agencies to improve the visitor opportunity people have to explore a experience in the area. Future plans beaver landscape in a stunning part include linking the trail to the Great of Scotland.” Glen Way on the loch’s north side, while from spring 2012 visitors will www.scottishbeavers.org.uk > also be able to take advantage of the new Great Glen Canoe Trail The Knapdale beavers continue to from Fort William to Inverness. draw wildlife tourists to the area > www.visitlochness.com

On the South Loch Ness Trail, near Fort Augustus STEVE GARDNER/SWT DESTINATION LOCH NESS LOCH DESTINATION PHOTOGRAPHY: PHOTOGRAPHY: PHOTOGRAPH: NEWS 07

FUNDING COMMUNITY a new pony enclosure at Follach. The SAVE THE BBC WILDLIFE FUND CONSERVATION ponies are used as an environmentally The John Muir Trust has added its name Solar panels on the Isle of Skye, friendly alternative to all-terrain vehicles to other conservation bodies who have a pony enclosure on the Knoydart for extracting deer carcasses on the all signed a letter calling for the BBC not peninsula and a heritage trail in North 7,000-hectare Knoydart Estate. to close its Wildlife Fund and to ensure Lewis are among projects across the “The ponies are an integral part of that the Fund continues to support Scottish Highlands and islands that our deer management operation, threatened species and habitats at have benefited from the John Muir enabling us to extract deer carcasses what is a particularly critical time Trust Conservation Fund. In all, ten from some of the most remote parts for global biodiversity. projects in Skye, Knoydart, Lewis, of the peninsula, which adjoin the John Although less well-known than Harris and Sutherland have been Muir Trust land at Li & Coire Dhorrcail,” other BBC appeals such as Children in awarded grants totalling £15,000. explained Jim Brown, the Foundation’s Need, the Wildlife Fund is nonetheless “The purpose of the Conservation Fund head stalker. “The new enclosure will extremely important. Since it was is to support projects on our properties help us maintain the deer population established in 2007, the fund has and partnership properties that will at a density that conserves the open raised nearly £3 million and supports benefit the local community and the range habitat, while ensuring key 87 projects around the world. environment,” explained Mike Daniels, areas of land are protected for native woodland regeneration.” Many of these projects involve highly the Trust’s Head of Land and Science. endangered species such as the “We want to ensure that people living The Conservation Fund allocates Sumatran rhino, Siberian tiger and in remote communities are able to grants once a year to projects that leatherback turtle. Closer to home, live sustainably among the spectacular reflect the values and ethos of the it has supported projects to help a landscapes that we value. I’m really John Muir Trust. It aims to help variety of species, from water voles looking forward to seeing these individuals, communities and groups and sea eagles to stag beetles which projects progress.” residing on John Muir Trust land – or thrive in some of London’s wild places. land managed in partnership with the Other projects to receive funding this The public petition to save the Wildlife year include work to restore peatlands Trust – to undertake environmental and associated cultural activities consistent Fund can be found at on a croft at Drinan in Skye, and support www.savebbcwildlifefund.net for two crofters on the Sandwood Estate with the Trust’s charitable objectives. in Sutherland who aim to improve biodiversity on their land. Elsewhere, the Knoydart Foundation Ponies are an invaluable resource has been awarded funding to help build for extracting deer carcasses JIM MANTHORPE PHOTOGRAPH: PHOTOGRAPH: 08 NEWS JOHN MUIR TRUST JOURNAL AUTUMN 2011

SWIMMING THE CORRYVRECKAN The notorious Gulf of Corryvreckan has wrecked ships and nearly drowned George Orwell, but Rohan Beyts, an Aberdeenshire social worker, has successfully swum across this daunting strait to raise money for the John Muir Trust. A keen hillwalker and cyclist, Rohan, 56, from Ellon, is a Trustee of the John Muir Trust. She swam the 1,100-metre channel in 30 minutes, during a narrow window of slack tide. At the time of writing, she had raised more than £1,300. Rohan was inspired to take on the challenge after reading about it in a magazine. “I thought it would be MIKE BELL/TAY LANDSCAPE PARTNERSHIP LANDSCAPE MIKE BELL/TAY an interesting thing to do,” she said. “I hardly slept thinking about the swim but it was better than I imagined. You don’t know what to expect because the PHOTOGRAPH: PHOTOGRAPH: sea can change so quickly. The conditions couldn’t have been better but I still LOTTERY BOOST FOR Kinnoull Hill, near Perth had some choppy waves coming over SCOTTISH LANDSCAPES my head.” The Heritage Lottery Fund (HLF) has A programme of reed-bed management The Gulf of Corryvreckan, between earmarked first-round passes for grants will be introduced, remaining orchards Scarba and Jura in the Inner Hebrides, totalling £3.3m to protect two diverse protected and historic buildings conserved. is home to the third largest whirlpool in Scottish landscapes: the Lomond Hills Access to the Tay, as the main feature of the world. This phenomenon is created in Fife and sections of the River Tay near the landscape, will be improved with new by an underwater pinnacle that forces Perth. While funding is not guaranteed, path networks and other initiatives so the fast-flowing water upwards towards a first-round pass means that money that people can reach the river. Many the surface. As the tide flows faster has been set aside by the Heritage volunteers will be involved in carrying round one side of the pinnacle, it Lottery Fund and is an indication of out the works, while community and catches the upwelling and creates positive support. school events such as orchard festivals, both whirlpools and turbulence. In the case of the Living Lomonds talks and workshops will engage the John Hutchison, Chairman of the Landscape Partnership, the project public in the area’s landscape John Muir Trust, said: “Rohan is has been awarded a first-round pass and history. incredibly fit and there was no doubt of £1,800,400, including a development The Landscape Partnership is designed she could rise to the challenge. Every grant of £90,600. The Living Lomonds to help conserve landscape through year I’m amazed by the physical feats focuses on a 162km2 area of Fife covering the forging of public and community that people set themselves to help the Lomond Hills and contrasting partnerships. People work together, raise funds for the Trust.” communities to the north and south through many interlinked projects, For more on Rohan’s challenge, visit of them, including Falkland – Scotland’s to tackle the environmental needs of http://rohanswim.blogspot.com first conservation village – and historic their local landscape, while celebrating, mining communities such as Benarty. conserving and restoring the natural Rohan in mid swim Led by Fife Coast and Countryside and built heritage of the area. Trust, the scheme aims to reconnect Over the past six years, HLF has people with the hills so that they can helped protect some of Scotland’s most better understand and celebrate the treasured landscapes, from Orkney’s built and natural heritage that they Scapa Flow to the floodplains of the share. Woodlands, dry-stone walls and River Tweed, thanks to an investment historic pilgrim routes will be restored totalling more than £8.5m. and new all-access paths created. > www.hlf.org.uk Volunteering, training and employment opportunities will be created in heritage skills while a programme of activities The Lomond Hills from Benarty will aim to provide a stronger connection between people and the landscape. Meanwhile, the Tay Landscape Partnership has been awarded a first-round pass of £1,535,500 including a development grant of £100,000. Led by Perth & Kinross Countryside Trust, the scheme covers an area of 200km2 and is designed to reconnect communities with the area’s RORY SYME natural and cultural heritage, as well as restore what remains. LIVING LOMONDS LP LIVING LOMONDS PHOTOGRAPH: PHOTOGRAPH: PHOTOGRAPH: PHOTOGRAPH: NEWS 09

DOUBLE YOUR MONEY For the second year running, we are offering the chance to double your donation to the John Muir Trust, through the Big Give Christmas Challenge 2011. To take advantage of this opportunity, all you have to do is donate through the Big Give website from 5-9 December. The double your money offer means that if you give £25 to support our protection of wild land, your donation will actually be worth £50 to us. In 2010 the Big Give raised £13,000 for the John Muir Trust thanks to generous support from members and supporters. This year we hope to raise £12,000 in donations that will then be doubled to £24,000. This year’s total will be used to extend the Trust’s work to protect wild land CNPA/WILL BOYD-WALLIS CNPA/WILL through our activities in Scotland and throughout the UK. If you can help, please make a diary

PHOTOGRAPH: PHOTOGRAPH: note to go online at www.jmt.org/biggive on 5 December. To ensure your donation counts, please ensure you get online WILDNESS KEY TO Loch Etchachan, high in the Cairngorms as soon as possible. A limited amount NATIONAL PARK PLANNING of funding is available each day and The Cairngorms National Park “The responses we receive to the draft will be used up by others if we don’t Authority (CNPA) has set out a draft National Park Plan will help us shape get there first! plan for controlling development within the priorities for the future management For further information, please contact the park over the next five years – of the National Park.” Kate Barclay on 0131 554 0114, with wildness a key part of the Wildness is one of the main priorities [email protected] overall thinking. in the draft National Park Plan. The Please mark 5 December in your diaries The Cairngorms National Park is Authority’s target is for a 10% increase now – and spread the word to others who home to some of the best wild land in in the area characterised as ‘high or also want to protect wild land the UK, including impressive mountains medium wildness’ by 2017. However, such as Ben Avon, the easternmost of the Park Authority says that achieving the high Cairngorms, and Carn Dearg this target will be a challenge given the in the Monadliaths, which is under number of large-scale wind developments STOP PRESS threat from a wind farm development. proposed around its boundary. The 2012 John Muir Trust AGM & “Wildness is one of the reasons so The National Park Authority is also Members’ Gathering will be held over many people love and enjoy coming consulting on its Cairngorms Local the weekend of 4-6 May at the Loch here,” said Hamish Trench, CNPA Development Plan Main Issues Report. Lomond Outdoor Education Centre, Strategic Land Use Director. “We need The Local Development Plan will Ardlui. The weekend will see an people to take part in our consultations determine where and what kinds informal dinner and social on the and share their ideas and suggestions of development can take place in evening of Friday, 4 May. Staff Reports on how we can build on the work already the Park. and the AGM will then be held on the underway to make the National Park The consultation for both documents morning of Saturday, 5 May, with an a better place to live, work and visit. began in September with a closing date opportunity to join excursions in the for submissions of 9 December. Copies afternoon. A BBQ will be provided in of both publications and details of how the evening and will be followed by to respond can be downloaded at either a lecture or local music to end www.cairngorms.co.uk the day. Further excursions will be A typically wild Cairngorm view available on Sunday, 6 May. CNPA/RJ KINNAIRD CNPA/RJ PHOTOGRAPH: PHOTOGRAPH: 10 CONSERVING The case for greater JOHN MUIR TRUST JOURNAL wild land protection AUTUMN 2011

Time to act

The John Muir Trust believes there is a strong case for improving statutory protection of wild land across the UK– with time very much of the essence. Stuart Brooks explains

The John Muir Trust’s call for better On the landscape front, in 1980, 40 areas statutory protection of wild land is far of ‘outstanding scenic value in a national from an isolated voice. A number of context’ in Scotland were designated debates, policy and practical initiatives as National Scenic Areas (NSAs). Along for our protected areas network in the with the two National Parks, NSAs UK have created a supportive backdrop provide the most effective means of to our ambitions. Here, I would like protecting Scotland’s valued landscapes. to explore some of the options and However, just as with the nature-based connections that could see the UK designations, the approach to selection address many of the inadequacies of the NSAs was to identify a representative that have led to our failure to meet sample of the best bits of scenery across biodiversity conservation targets as Scotland. In other words, they do not well as the despoiling of our natural, represent a comprehensive coverage of wild landscapes. all areas of the highest scenic quality. The UK has a long history of protecting One might think therefore that the UK is its natural and cultural heritage, in part awash with designations and protected recognising the moral imperative that areas, many of them overlapping, and wildlife and landscapes have intrinsic the last thing we need is any more. Some value and should be cherished to pass certainly argue this point vigorously – but on to future generations. Now, fresh it is not just a numbers game. The real arguments for protecting nature for its point is whether the current network of ecological or ecosystem services, such protected areas is adequate and effective KEITH BRAME as provision of clean air, food, water and at protecting our natural heritage and – regulation of our climate, are beginning of particular relevance to the John Muir to drive land use policies and influence Trust– whether our wild land resource PHOTOGRAPH: the debate on the future of our protected is adequately protected by existing areas network. separate designations conceived to Standing tall: autumn pine, The cornerstone of modern protected protect our landscape and biodiversity. Glen Derry, Cairngorms (above); areas legislation in the UK was the the Trust’s Wild Land map OUR VISION (opposite) National Park and Access to the In 2010, the Trust published its new Countryside Act 1949. This laid the Vision entitled ‘Our Essential Wildness’. foundations for designating places that In that document we made the case for are special for wildlife (such as National improving protection for wild land as the Nature Reserves and Sites of Special accepted that something needed to be means to protect the special qualities of Scientific Interest) and people (National done. It cited its own research showing ‘wildness’ that we think are so important Parks and Areas of Outstanding Natural that areas in Scotland without visual to us and society as a whole. A key Beauty). Subsequent legislation has influence decreased from 31% in January purpose of our Vision is to encourage improved first the protection and, more 2008 to 28% in December 2009 (from a decision-makers to recognise the issues recently, the management of wildlife baseline of 41% in 2002). SNH suggests sites. However, there has been no real and take action. It is important that we that the most significant contributor to recognition of any physical or functional set out in the clearest possible terms this decline is the development of wind connection between these special places – what we think is the priority for protection farms, a consequence of their prominence and many have subsequently become and the best way of doing that is to use our and extensive visibility and siting in isolated fragments of nature in an Wild Land map (see section opposite) rural locations with little or no increasingly hostile territory. showing where we think the best wild previous development. land is in the UK. The Natura 2000 network– which A more detailed study3 has been comprises Special Areas of Conservation This is our starting point, so where do undertaken of the Affric-Kintail-Knoydart and Special Protection Areas across we want to end up? We have covered area, exploring historic trends in the Europe –provides a higher level of this before in previous Journal articles, extent of wild land by considering the protection and has encouraged active but it is important to restate that our wild visual effect of roads, tracks, plantation management for habitats and species landscapes, particularly in Scotland, are forest and hydro-power schemes, and in the UK. The underpinning European now under increased pressure at an changes in accessibility. This revealed Directive (Article 10) also recognises unprecedented rate and extent. a reduction in the area unaffected by the idea of a network of sites to support In its response to the John Muir Trust these features of around a third over ecological coherence1 although the petition2 to the Scottish Parliament the past 100 years, with the scale of ambition was never truly realised seeking ‘better protection for wild land’ change much greater in the second in its implementation in the UK. Scottish Natural Heritage (SNH) half of the 20th century. WILDNESS AND WILD LAND IN THE UNITED KINGDOM

KEY NATIONAL PARK

NATIONAL SCENIC AREA

UK WILDLAND QUALITY INDEX VALUE HIGH

LOW

TOP 10% WILDEST LAND

THIS MAP IS PRODUCED FROM ORDNANCE SURVEY MATERIAL WITH THE PERMISSION OF ORDNANCE SURVEY. JOHN MUIR TRUST LICENSE NUMBER 100034628 2010. ANALYSIS AND CARTOGRAPHY BY WILDLAND RESEARCH INSTITUTE, UNIVERSITY OF LEEDS

PERCENTAGES OF BEST WILD LAND AREAS PROTECTED BY STATUTORY DESIGNATIONS Section of the John Muir Trust Wild Land Map showing areas of TOP 10% WILDEST ALL STATUTORY NATIONAL PARK NSA NATURA 2000 SSSI cross-over with statutory landscape LAND IN UK DESIGNATIONS protection including National Scenic Areas and National Parks in Scotland. SCOTLAND 49.6 6.6 33.6 20 23.1 ENGLAND 97.1 90.1 7 24.3 2.5 Details of the Wild land Map can be WALES 99.5 97.2 1.2 63.6 67.2 found at UK 52 8.7 32 19.2 24.4 www.jmt.org/assets/pdf/policy/wild SOURCE: WILDLAND RESEARCH INSTITUTE, UNIVERSITY OF LEEDS %20land%20policy.pdf

Just as the Government-commissioned Lawton concludes that there is a way Our analysis shows that the NSA system Lawton review 4 of wildlife sites has made forward, that it will take considerable only covers a third of the best wild land the case for a new approach for wildlife time and resources to implement but areas in Scotland (see table above). To conservation in England, we must now that it must be done if England is to be pessimistic, one might conclude that raise the profile of landscape protection. remain a ‘green and pleasant land’. if nothing is done to bolster our systems Lawton points to the inadequacy of of landscape protection in Scotland and the sites system (i.e. Special Sites of BEING BOLD we are reliant solely on NSAs and existing Scientific interest) in England (the Much of Lawton’s arguments support the National Parks we could, over time, lose same arguments are relevant to the need to address wild land protection in a two-thirds of our existing best wild land rest of the UK) and, in the context of similarly bold fashion. Our Wild Land map resource. climate change and declining ecological is a starting point as it outlines where we It is true that wildlife is protected (mainly indicators, says that a failure to meet think the most valuable resource is. This by SSSI and Natura) in around 50% of the international obligations requires a can be further refined but, fundamentally, same wild land area but we have found ‘step-change in our approach to wildlife it encompasses the most natural landscapes that under the current system – whereby conservation, from trying to hang on and wildlife areas – albeit influenced by a site is designated either for wildlife to what we have, to one of large-scale centuries of human land use. I think this and associated habitat, or for scenic habitat restoration and recreation, gets to the heart of the issue and teases landscape quality –places under threat under-pinned by the re-establishment out what it is exactly we are trying to from development cannot be defended of ecological processes and ecosystem ‘protect’. In one word, it is ‘wildness’ – taking into account both landscape and services, for the benefits of both people where landscape and nature meet with and wildlife’. minimal human influence. > continued KEITH BRAME PHOTOGRAPH: PHOTOGRAPH:

wildness qualities if the development friendly wider countryside. I don’t think Land value (clockwise from top): is not deemed to be detrimental to the it can be said that our landscapes are Cairngorm panorama; Birling Gap, South Downs NP; fishing boat off particular special feature or purpose equally well served by the existing Skye; lone walker enjoying the of the designation. protected landscape network. We are Lake District hills So, while we might be in with a chance still at the stage where the core areas, of defending some of the wildlife, our the best areas, require further statutory communities such as the North Harris landscapes are highly exposed to protection in order to conserve their Trust and Knoydart Foundation require development. special qualities. ongoing support. We are also now battling against ECONOMIC ARGUMENTS The status quo is not enough. Our many developments just outside of These arguments are not just about current statutory systems are inadequate our designated areas, most notably in the aesthetics and the undoubted and we are losing the quality and extent the Monadhliath Mountains near the contribution wild land makes to society’s of our wild land year after year. In their Cairngorms National Park. I don’t think wellbeing, there are also compelling response to our Scottish Parliament anyone could have envisaged the scale economic arguments for protecting and petition I think SNH managed to sum of these impacts and its effects on the promoting our wild landscapes5. Our up this sentiment extremely well and integrity of our National Parks and NSAs. landscapes are of world renown and they they therefore have the last word: should be seen as an accolade and the ‘We would note, however, that given JOINT PROTECTION foundation for supporting sustainable the intensity of current pressures, the Where we can make a connection with and economically resilient communities. time available for existing approaches the Lawton work is to bring the concepts The International Union for the to prove their efficacy must be regarded of wildlife and landscape together. After as limited. If they are unable to do so, all, wildlife lives in landscapes and some Conservation of Nature (IUCN) in the UK is currently undertaking a alternatives such as that advocated of our most charismatic and important by the John Muir Trust would become species and habitats such as golden project to map all the protected areas in the country6 and assign them to the essential. There is a history, in the field eagle, wild cat, red deer, blanket bogs, of environmental protection, of acting pine woods and mountains exist or various IUCN protected areas categories. It is surprising this does not exist already decisively only when the resources in are dependent on our wildest and question are under extreme threat. least-developed areas. but when the project is complete I think it will demonstrate some of the Given the distinctiveness and rarity Here, the concept of scale is paramount. inadequacies that are already apparent of Scotland’s wild land resource – in Nature is more resilient (to climate as we struggle to defend some of our a western European, not purely a UK, change, for instance) where it has room best areas of wild land. I also hope context– we must surely avoid this trap to adapt and move and where natural that it might provide an opportunity and act before it is too late.’ ecological processes are allowed to prevail to reconsider how our protected areas with minimal human intervention. As in the UK might be simplified and such, the creation of large ecologically References bolstered and where core areas for 1 www.bfn.de/fileadmin/MDB/ connected areas and networks are now wildlife might overlap with our best documents/themen/natura2000/conclusions.pdf being seen as a solution to conserve and landscapes. In this way, we can establish 2 www.scottish.parliament.uk/s3/ restore our native biodiversity –promoted an ecologically connected network that committees/petitions/petitionsubmissions/sub- by the Wildlife Trusts in their Living could be used to protect and promote 11/11-PE1383D.pdf Landscapes and RSPB in their our wild land resource including its 3 Carver, S and Wrightham, M. (2003) Futurescapes. Could this also be an landscape and wildlife components. Assessment of historic trends in the extent of opportunity for our wild landscapes? wild land in Scotland: a pilot study. SNH This might well be a longer term Commissioned report no. 012. However, neither the Wildlife Trusts nor ambition; it will certainly require 4 Lawton, J.H., Brotherton, P.N.M., Brown, V.K., RSPB are necessarily arguing for new vision, political will and, perhaps of Elphick, C., Fitter, A.H., Forshaw, J., Haddow, designations to enable them to deliver R.W., Hilborne, S., Leafe, R.N., Mace, G.M., more immediate concern, significant Southgate, M.P., Sutherland, W.J., Tew, T.E., their ambitions. They may well feel that resources. There are perhaps other Varley, J., & Wynne, G.R. (2010) Making Space for their interests are already well served by more modest steps that could be Nature: a review of England’s wildlife sites and the existing protected areas network and considered in the interim: creation of ecological network. Report to Defra other policy instruments and approaches http://archive.defra.gov.uk/environment/biodivers more National Parks and establishing ity/documents/201009space-for-nature.pdf can be used to good effect. buffer zones around our existing ones, 5 www.snh.gov.uk/docs/B304460.pdf This may be true and, in many cases, it reviewing our National Scenic Areas 6 IUCN Putting Nature on the Map is as much a matter of will as legislation – and production of specific guidance www.iucn-uk.org/Portals/0//Putting%20nature% more carrot than stick. This perspective to planners and developers to help 20on%20the%20map%20summary.pdf is driven by an acceptance that our protect our landscapes and the 7 www.cairngorms.co.uk/resource/docs/ core areas for wildlife are already qualities of wildness (similar to the boardpapers/22072011/CNPA.Paper.4440. Planning%20Committee.Paper.8.-..Appe.pdf protected although focus now needs recent Cairngorms National Park to be on making sure that these areas supplementary planning guidance are physically or functionally connected on wildness7). Other routes to protect About the author Stuart Brooks is Chief Executive of the by wildlife corridors, stepping stones and enhance wild land through John Muir Trust. He can be contacted at and a more permeable and wildlife- guardianship by NGOs and local [email protected] PHOTOGRAPH: RUTH CHAMBERS

PHOTOGRAPH: RICHARD ROWE

PHOTOGRAPH: SOUTH DOWNS NP 14 CONSERVING Examining the important JOHN MUIR TRUST JOURNAL role played by National Parks AUTUMN 2011

What next for our National Parks?

Ruth Chambers from the Campaign for National Parks looks back at the creation of the National Park system in England and Wales and highlights some of the threats these special areas face today The National Parks journey for England and Wales began PARKS BOOST in earnest in the 1930s. Much of the countryside was out In England, the National Parks family was given a huge of bounds as it lay within large estates jealously guarded boost when the South Downs joined in 2010. This followed by game-keepers and grouse moor beaters. But so great a long campaign that had its roots in the 1950s, as the South was people’s need for recreational escape from the polluted Downs had been the only area to have been cited in the 1947 northern cities of Sheffield and Manchester that they joined Hobhouse Report not to be designated as a National Park. The together in the now legendary Kinder Scout Mass Trespass in South Downs Campaign, established in 1990, was instrumental 1932. It was a turning point in the campaign to secure greater in winning the fight for National Park status, thanks largely to access to the countryside and catapulted access rights onto unstinting public support and national political commitment. the political agenda in spectacular fashion. The South Downs is an interesting addition to the family Later that decade and for much of the 1940s, attention turned due to its long and linear shape, large population and elsewhere as war broke out, but not long after hostilities ended high visitor numbers. the campaigns for National Parks and access to our green Today, Natural England is considering extending the Lake spaces were back on the agenda. With legislation in the bag in District and Yorkshire Dales National Parks – a move that 1949 (the National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act), would complete unfinished business from the 1950s when most National Parks were designated in the 1950s with the Park boundaries were often drawn to reflect administrative twin purposes of conserving their natural environment and convenience rather than landscape value. If this project is promoting public enjoyment of it. The Broads joined the family successful stunning landscapes such as the northern Howgills in 1989, the New Forest in 2005 and the South Downs in 2010. and Mallerstang and the limestone wonders of the Orton Fells will be included in the Yorkshire Dales National Park, while the Lake District’s eastern borders will be boosted by the quiet wonders of Borrowdale (Westmorland) and Bretherdale. Disappointingly, the expansion of the Parks is opposed by local authorities, despite the fact that the public (their electorate) overwhelmingly supports the extensions. We welcome the John Muir Trust’s support for this important campaign. So where will our focus turn once the Lake District and Yorkshire Dales expansions have been secured? In England, there is a sense that the National Park journey of designations is nearing completion. In Wales, some of us still hanker after a Cambrian Mountains National Park that would cover the upland beauty and wildness of the Elenydd. But the chances of securing political support for this seem slim at present. In Scotland, there are many choices for extending the National Park family including an exciting opportunity to create the UK’s first marine and coastal National Park, which is only possible under Scottish legislation. DISCOVERY PHOTOGRAPHY DISCOVERY > continued PHOTOGRAPH: PHOTOGRAPH:

Stretching the legs: cycling in the North York Moors NP (left); limestone pavement, Yorkshire Dales NP (opposite) PHOTOGRAPH: FRIENDS OF THE LAKE DISTRICT PEOPLE POWER ADDITIONAL THREATS Governments invest in vote winners Our National Parks are part of a Some of the most obvious threats and National Parks must be seen as worldwide network of landscapes are the ones that we can see, including an essential part of society and not as that, collectively, we have decided development proposals of all kinds. a luxury if they are to enjoy continued should be protected for current and National Parks enjoy the highest status public and political support. This is future generations. But unlike many of protection in relation to their why we have been working for the past other types of protected area, National landscape and scenic beauty, but 11 years on Mosaic, a groundbreaking Parks in the UK have one crucial that doesn’t prevent them from being project that helps individuals, groups difference –people. targeted by developers of housing, and communities to understand, gain People have helped to shape the energy and quarrying schemes. For access to and benefit from National National Park landscapes that we example, a company called Sirius Parks. It focuses on those audiences know and love, and people continue to Mining is currently sinking eight who would not normally visit such care for them today, by farming, visiting, exploratory boreholes into the North places and provides them with the volunteering and campaigning. And it is York Moors National Park to determine knowledge, tools and confidence to clear that without people National Parks the extent of potash underground with explore these wonderful landscapes. would not exist in the way that we know a view to applying for a major new potash mine. NOW MORE THAN EVER them today; they are, after all, a human We strongly believe that the role of concept dating back to the late 1800s And while national and local planning National Parks has never been more vital. when Yellowstone became the world’s policies have succeeded in protecting They represent our finest landscapes and first National Park. the Parks, in England the government bring pleasure to the millions of people But as well as being instrumental in is consulting on a new national planning who visit them every year, as well as a their establishment and protection, policy framework. Meanwhile, in Wales, much-needed escape from the stresses people are, in some ways, the greatest the government is reviewing how planning of everyday life. They are havens for threat to National Parks. As our is delivered in National Parks. There many valuable species, harbour much population and demand for natural has always been a tension between of our cultural heritage and will make resources grow, so too will the pressure the protection of nationally important a major contribution to tackling on our vital open spaces. As our lives landscapes, creation of local jobs and, climate change. become more stressful and we reject in some cases, provision of nationally important resources (for example As such, National Parks are a vital far-flung holidays because of carbon part of many people’s lives, providing budgeting and purse tightening, we minerals or space for military training). This tension is unlikely ever to resolve opportunities to escape, reflect and keep turn increasingly to places like the healthy. The designation has largely National Parks for solace and to satisfy itself while the overall population and the demands of society grow. So we worked but many challenges lie ahead. our growing hunger for adventure, A healthy and sustainable future for escape and tranquillity. must remain vigilant and ensure that the planning frameworks remain robust National Parks will depend on the I believe that National Parks have and that development is undertaken involvement of us all. delivered on their founding aims. sustainably within National Parks. They remain large tracts of largely undeveloped countryside with excellent Of course, loss of vital local services public access – a glance at a map of and lack of affordable housing threaten night-time Britain shows the National to undermine the communities that Parks as reservoirs of darkness, thanks live and work within the National Parks – largely to their protected status. They schools, buses, shops, garages and pubs remain free to everyone and recognise are all at risk in this time of austerity. the importance of attracting new However, perhaps the most serious audiences. Society has changed greatly threats to National Parks are the ones since the 1950s and it is important that that we can’t see. The changing climate the National Parks reflect this. will have major implications for our It is our belief that people need National Parks, their wildlife and the communities Parks, but our National Parks also need that live within them. Meanwhile, our people. In the short term, a major threat complicated and volatile world means lies with their resourcing. National Parks, there are so many demands for people’s like many other areas of funding, have lost time and attention that there is a real out in the UK Government’s programme risk that people will take National Parks to reduce the deficit. The full impact for granted and assume that their of the cuts on Park budgets will not be protection is guaranteed. known for some time, but it seems that rights of way, bus services and visitor facilities could be hit the hardest.

About the author Ruth Chambers is Deputy Chief Executive at the Campaign for National Parks – an organisation now in its 75th year that campaigns to inspire people to look after and enjoy our National Parks. For more details, visit www.cnp.org.uk PHOTOGRAPH: MIKE KIPLING/NORTH YORK MOORS NP PHOTOGRAPH: FRIENDS OF THE LAKE DISTRICT

PHOTOGRAPH: FRIENDS OF THE LAKE DISTRICT

© CROWN COPYRIGHT AND DATABASE RIGHT. ORDNANCE SURVEY 100022021. © NATURAL ENGLAND York Moors Park; walkers exploring theNorth be partoftheLake District National Bretherdale Farm, whichcould soon Parks across EnglandandWales; northern Howgills; the13National Park life (clockwise from top): the 18 CONSERVING Restoring a once JOHN MUIR TRUST JOURNAL scarred landscape AUTUMN 2011 SHAILA RAO/NATIONAL TRUST FOR SCOTLAND TRUST FOR SHAILA RAO/NATIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY: PHOTOGRAPHY:

The pioneering restoration of a major hill track on the Mar Lodge Estate in the Cairngorms demonstrates that such Covering damage can be reversed over time. Shaila Rao explains tracks The 4.6km Beinn a Bhuird hill track on the Mar Lodge Estate was bulldozed in 1963 for stalking and potential ski development and was a highly prominent scar in the landscape of the Southern Cairngorms. Varying in width from three to six metres, the track extended from the foot of the mountain (680 metres) almost to the saddle between the north and south summits at 1,080 metres. In 1997, with a view to enhancing the wild land quality of the estate and promoting the idea of the ‘long walk in’, the National Trust for Scotland embarked on a programme of track removal – with the Beinn a Bhuird track the first to be tackled. Restoring the track was to prove both pioneering and challenging in terms of the altitude, exposure and fragility of the montane plant communities. Overall, the aim was to restore the track site to its original conditions, with the first stage being to recreate the original ground profile by relocating the large quantities of spoil from the track sides back into the line of the track. This was followed by the painstaking transplanting of vegetation that had been lifted from the spoil heap prior to its relocation back into the re-profiled ground. To enable continued access for hill walkers to the summit of Beinn a Bhuird, a footpath, clear of vegetation, was retained within the line of the track.

Track transformation: there has been a marked change in vegetation cover between 2001 (top left) and 2010 (top right); working on the hill track in November 2000 (opposite top) The success of the track restoration to transplant and that it would only be two counts: the transplanted vegetation would ultimately be judged on the possible to cover 20-30 per cent of the has survived and maintained itself in terms growth and survival of the transplanted track. However, this level of cover was of percentage cover; and the vegetation vegetation and how closely this matched accepted with the expectation that over has grown and expanded over the last the surrounding vegetation. For this time the vegetation would grow and reach ten years, although it does not yet match reason it was important that sufficient the level of cover of adjacent areas. What the control vegetation. time, resources and attention to detail was considered most important at the It is clear that at this altitude and were put into the transplant work. To time of the initial work was the need to with such high levels of exposure the achieve the level of precision required, ‘blend’ the reconstructed track with the growth of vegetation is very slow and it all work above 900 metres was carried adjacent vegetation and surroundings. may take many more years until the re- out by hand. Below this, a machine was MONITORING SUCCESS vegetated areas match the control areas. used to move material although much In the transplanted areas the amount of the actual transplant work was still Key to gauging the success of the track restoration was the establishment of a of moss colonising into bare stony performed by hand. ground outweighs that found in the monitoring programme to measure With the Beinn a Bhuird track control quadrats. Colonisation by changes in the transplanted vegetation. restoration regarded as very much mosses is usually the precursor to Since 1998, quadrats in the upper part a demonstration project in terms of vegetation establishment so this of the track have been carefully studied, attempting to recreate original ground suggests that continued expansion with the percentage cover of different vegetation, a decision was made not to of the transplanted vegetation is likely. plant species recorded along with fixed sow grass seed or introduce plants from point photographs of each quadrat and Looking at the different species groups outwith the local area to facilitate the selected areas of the track. within the transplanted vegetation, the re-vegetation process. Instead, workers grasses, sedges and rushes are the only The monitoring measured changes relied upon the vegetation that had species that have grown to match and in in the transplanted vegetation in three established itself on top of the spoil fact exceed the coverage of the vegetation distinct areas: control (an area of heap, supplemented by plants collected in the control quadrats. This is no real existing original vegetation just off the from densely vegetated areas within surprise: grasses, sedges and rushes are track); infill (vegetation transplanted 50 metres of the track. better colonisers at high altitude than into the track line that was filled in Individual plugs of grasses were sub-shrub species such as heather, using the spoil heap); and spoil removed transplanted by hand, as were small, blaeberry and cowberry. We anticipate (vegetation transplanted into the area plate-sized turfs of species such as that it will take more time for the sub- heather and blaeberry. Using this where the spoil heap was located). method it became apparent that Results show that the track restoration there was a shortage of vegetation and re-vegetation have been successful on > continued shrub species to develop and compete is possible at high altitudes and with Clear as day: the Beinn a Bhuird hill with the grasses, sedges and rushes. use of only local materials. The work track seen from Avalanche Gully in 2001 It is also likely that there is more seed to restore the track was neither quick source available locally for some grass, nor cheap but most people would agree sedge and rush species, such as the that the track removal has improved the locally dominant three-leaved rush, landscape in the southern Cairngorms than there is for the sub-shrub species. and enhanced the wild land experience Similar results have been found on the to be had on Mar lodge Estate. Ongoing other side of the Cairngorms where high- monitoring of the site will reveal whether altitude, unseeded bulldozed ground was the re-vegetated areas continue to grow colonised first by mosses and grasses, and ultimately match the control areas sedges and rushes and, even after 25 of existing vegetation. years, the development of the sub-shrub Similar work has since been performed community remains limited. elsewhere, with further tracks restored in The data clearly illustrates the changes Glen Dee, Glen Derry and Glen Luibeg. in the transplanted vegetation since 1998 This work has not been as technically but the results are seen most strikingly challenging as the Beinn a Bhuird track, through fixed point photographs (as is but we hope that visitors have reaped clear from the photographs on page 18). the same benefits in terms of landscape and wild land experience. Interestingly, the vegetation in the control treatment has also grown and expanded over the last ten years and it is not clear why this may have occurred. This trend suggests that there may be some external factor at play that is influencing both the existing vegetation and the transplanted vegetation. There are a number of possible reasons, including reduced grazing levels and climate change. About the author The National Trust for Scotland knew Shaila Rao works as an ecologist for the National that the Beinn a Bhuird track restoration Trust for Scotland at Mar Lodge Estate. She has was always going to be a long-term project spent many years working in ecology in the Highlands and is also a keen hillwalker, in light of the slow growth and extreme photographer and naturalist. conditions when working at altitude. Further info However, more than ten years on, it has For more on Mar Lodge Estate, visit demonstrated that track restoration www.marlodgeestate.org.uk Ben Nevis Distillery – testimonial 21 the spirit of a wild place The UK’s highest mountain and Ben Nevis Distillery, which stands in its shadow, are intrinsically linked. The mountain not only provides an impressive backdrop to the traditional Scottish craft of distilling whisky but also the key ingredients that give it its provenance

The importance of this relationship is reinforced through the Distillery’s membership of the John Muir Trust. As a silver corporate member since 2008, Ben Nevis Distillery has helped to look after this inspiring mountain and is the key sponsor of the ‘Spirit of the Wild Places’ lecture at the John Muir Trust’s AGM & Members’ Gathering. “Ben Nevis Distillery recognises the important work that the Trust performs as one of the guardians of Ben Nevis,” says Colin Ross, Managing Director, Ben Nevis Distillery. “We are therefore delighted to be able to provide our support through our corporate membership and sponsorship and hope that we can continue to develop and build on this relationship for the future.” Incorporated within the Distillery is a visitor centre, which is built into the former bottling hall, and an old warehouse dating from 1862. Visitors to the centre will encounter the mythical giant Hector McDram who reveals the Legend of the ‘Dew of Ben Nevis’ in a specially commissioned audio-visual presentation. The centre also offers home cooking in its coffee shop and restaurant.

For further information on Ben Nevis Distillery and its BEN NEVIS DISTILLERY range of whisky, visit www.bennevisdistillery.com PHOTOGRAPH: PHOTOGRAPH:

The John Muir Trust would like to thank the Ben Nevis Distillery and all our Corporate Members and Supporters, as well as those other companies who provide support such as payroll giving schemes

GOLD CORPORATE MEMBERS BRONZE CORPORATE MEMBERS SUPPORTERS Anatom® Alpine Exploratory Aspect Capital Ltd Berghaus Dewar’s World of Whisky BP Employee Matching Fund Dandy Collective Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival Corrour Estate Highlander (Scotland Ltd) Four Seasons Hotel, Loch Earn Image Scotland Ltd Mountain Equipment George Hotel, Edinburgh Northern Light Tiso Kings Manor Hotel, Edinburgh Profitmaster Systems Ltd Wilderness Scotland Northshots Serco RSP Consulting Engineers LLP SILVER CORPORATE MEMBERS The Watermill, Aberfeldy Ben Nevis Distillery Webducate HF Holidays Macfarlane Pharmacies Radical Travel Group The Ski and Snowboard School

We value the contribution of the growing number of companies that support the Trust through membership, donations, promotional initiatives and in-kind support. If your business would like to help our business of protecting wild land and wild places, please contact Fiona Mackintosh KEITH BRAME on 0131 554 0114 or email [email protected] PHOTOGRAPH: PHOTOGRAPH: 22 INSPIRING An inspiring day on the JOHN MUIR TRUST JOURNAL UK’s highest mountain AUTUMN 2011

Tales from the top

Ben Nevis and local climber Dave MacLeod were the stars of the show during a high-altitude day on the mountain as part of the countdown to the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games. Rob Bushby joined the audience of eager participants ROB BUSHBY PHOTOGRAPH: PHOTOGRAPH: JOHN HUTCHISON ROB BUSHBY PHOTOGRAPH: PHOTOGRAPH: PHOTOGRAPH:

Traditional rock and ice climbing are unlikely to become “As a climber it was an honour to have a chance to chat to Olympic sports any time soon, but if they were included in Dave, with the culmination of the day sitting in the shadow the London 2012 Olympics, Ben Nevis would offer a world-class of Echo Wall listening to him speaking of the climb itself venue and Scotland’s Dave MacLeod would be a gold medal and other past adventures,” said Robert Wall. contender. One sunny July weekend, these two elements were “The day was captivating and inspiring because not only did brought together by the John Muir Trust as part of a range of we hear some great stories about the Ben, but at the same time celebrations marking ‘One Year to Go’ to the London Olympic we got to gaze at the walls and gullies where the adventures and Paralympic Games. unfolded,” added Douglas Rankin. Of the 1,200 events held across the UK, this was not only the Attendees were also able to learn more about the John Muir highest, but quite possibly the most dramatically located. Some Trust and the challenges around managing a high-profile 26 members of the public – joining more than a million others estate like Nevis. The day fitted well with the Trust’s belief on Open Weekend events – headed up the Allt a’ Mhuillin path, that wild places are among the country’s finest assets and past the Charles Inglis Clark hut to a height of 1,000m. The should be celebrated. As part of the Cultural Olympiad, we imposing corries and buttresses on the northern flanks of the were able to promote one of our most dramatic and culturally Ben provided the ideal setting for the special theme of this rich mountain landscapes to a new audience. walk: to explore the Ben’s climbing history, from the earliest Victorian ascents to Dave’s own triumph on Echo Wall in And as a local mountain athlete who exemplifies Olympian 2008 – a route widely considered the hardest traditional values of peak performance, pushing boundaries and rock climb in the world. exhilarating achievements, Dave MacLeod was the ideal candidate to place at the heart of such a celebration. The Trust invited Dave MacLeod to lead the event not only due to his intimate knowledge of its crags, but also because of his appreciation of the Ben’s cultural heritage, natural aesthetics and place in mountaineering lore. In one week in 2010, Dave and Andy Turner repeated the six first winter ascents made on consecutive days in 1960 by Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith, including the mini Alpine-route, Orion Face Direct. The unique aspect of a guided walk in the company of a climbing superstar wasn’t lost on those attending. “It was an unmissable opportunity for non-climbers to see the Ben’s north face close up, and to hear from the expert how he goes about About the author Rob Bushby is John Muir Award Manager at his extraordinary business,” commented Duncan MacPhee, the John Muir Trust. He can be contacted at Director of Lochaber Sports Association. [email protected] Dave himself reflected that of all his many talks about his Further info Open Weekend is supported by BP as part of Echo Wall ‘project’, this was the first he’d given directly beneath the London 2012 Cultural Olympiad. Spread the wall itself. Some over four years, the Olympiad is designed to give of the attendees were everyone in the UK a chance to be part of London climbers themselves and 2012 and inspire creativity and involvement in art, film, literature, music, theatre and the outdoors. Heading home (clockwise from so the chance to spend This particular event was commissioned by left): participants on the return time in Dave’s company Discovering Places, a UK-wide campaign walk; Dave MacLeod in full flow; on a mountain where he to inspire people to discover, explore and gazing up at the Ben’s north face be inspired by the buildings, public spaces has forged much of his and natural places where they live and work. climbing reputation was For more details, visit a particularly enjoyable www.london2012.com/get-involved/ experience. cultural-olympiad 24 INSPIRING Forging links with National Parks JOHN MUIR TRUST JOURNAL around the country AUTUMN 2011

Working with National Parks The John Muir Award’s links with a variety of National Parks give it an important UK-wide presence, writes Rob Bushby

With John Muir considered a ‘founding father’ of the National feedback from external partners was the value of the Parks movement, it is not surprising that there is much common Park Authorities in providing well structured and packaged ground (pun alert) between National Parks and the John Muir experiences for those seeking to engage in the Parks. The use Trust. In 1947, Sir Arthur Hobhouse, Chair of the Committee of developed packages or existing award schemes such as on National Parks, outlined their essential requirements as John Muir Award or Duke of Edinburgh Award provides a ‘great natural beauty, a high value for open air recreation, and more structured basis upon which to build engagement’. substantial continuous extent’, which echoes the Trust’s current Most importantly, putting all the infrastructure, boundaries and wild land mapping criteria. They should also, he added, ‘be terminology to one side, we are left with thousands of valuable such that at least one of them is quickly accessible from experiences that reflect Muir’s ethos – a sense captured by a each of the main centres of population’. young homeless woman who recently spent three days in The To help promote the public’s understanding and enjoyment of Trossachs as part of Quarriers’ ‘What if …!’ project: “The air National Parks – one of their key statutory purposes – many Parks actually feels clean. It’s great to get a chance to be away from around the UK now work closely with the John Muir Award. all the noise and hassle back home. I wish I could stay here Orlando Rutter, Dartmoor National Park’s Senior Learning forever, it’s amazing!” and Outreach Officer, recently ran a programme for eight family groups that included walking, climbing, sketching, poetry, snorkel-litter picking in the River Dart and repairing fire pits. The programme was established so that the range of activities would meet the four Challenges – Discover a wild place, Explore it, Conserve it, Share your experiences – that are at the heart of the Award. “The John Muir Award provides a really easy-to-use framework to deepen people’s relationship with National Parks, their special qualities and their conservation for the future,” says Orlando. “It provides the National Park Authority with a way of developing appreciation and empathy for Dartmoor.” Elsewhere, our working partnerships with a variety of National Parks are now well established. The Award’s presence in Cumbria, for example, has received backing since 2002, with the Lake District National Park now hosting our Regional Manager as part of its learning service. Meanwhile, one of the first decisions of the Cairngorms National Park Board in 2003 was to appoint a dedicated John Muir Award Manager– a role now integrated into a permanent Outdoor Learning Officer post. In all, 12 of the UK’s 15 National Parks now make regular use of the John Muir Award. Some, such as Loch Lomond & The TRUST NATIONAL Trossachs National Park, have a network of rangers, teachers and youth workers who use the Award locally. Others, such as the Peak District National Park, have a ‘champion’ at senior PHOTOGRAPH: PHOTOGRAPH: level who helps to co-ordinate and ‘cascade’ activity across staff teams and beyond. Such activity contributes to a vibrant mix of John Muir-branded engagement across a spectrum Digging deep: Award participants work with Fix the Fells in the Lake of wild places and audiences. District National Park In these financially straitened times, the Award is seen as a cost-effective means of meeting Park aims and an effective catalyst for linking activity with local initiatives and government objectives. As Pete Crane, Senior Visitor Services Officer at the Cairngorms National Park Authority, points out, it is estimated that “one full-time member of staff promoting and supporting the Award within and around the Park produces outcomes similar to four members of staff on the ground”. Additionally, the Award helps to recognise achievement and promote progression in National Citizen Service projects and is also seen as a way of helping involve those who don’t usually About the author Rob Bushby is John Muir Award Manager venture into National Parks. A Scottish Natural Heritage report at the John Muir Trust. He can be contacted into ‘Barriers to Engagement’ noted that ‘amongst the strongest at [email protected]

26 INSPIRING A magical walk along JOHN MUIR TRUST JOURNAL Scotland’s watershed AUTUMN 2011

Walk the line Peter Wright talks to Rory Syme about his passion for Scotland’s watershed and how he aims to protect its meandering line

“I defy anyone to draw any other line It was while walking the line that he on the map of Scotland, certainly anything became aware of the wildness that the like 1,200km in length, that consistently watershed embodies. “I suppose the incorporates such wildness.” So says point at which it became most evident author Peter Wright, describing Scotland’s was when I was crossing the Central watershed – the long divide that separates Belt,” he explains. “A lot of keen walkers the catchments of the Atlantic Ocean would scoff at the idea of walking across and the North Sea. the Central Belt. However, I found that It would be foolhardy to take up the I was making my way from one piece of challenge. The watershed is a physical higher ground to the next, where there metaphor for wildness. The meandering had been little agricultural activity and line it describes includes 44 Munros where even in the areas of industrial and 24 Corbetts, both of Scotland’s blight, nature was reclaiming its own. National Parks and comes within “I became more and more conscious at least 500 metres of 87 other of this wildness business, and the great designated features. thing for me about the word wildness When Wright went looking for a major is that it’s relative. When I did the project, he fell back on his love of research, I discovered all of these geography, one of the few subjects he designated areas – every conceivable enjoyed during a school career that ended kind of protection and designation is at 14. Unable to find a detailed reference there and in disproportionate quantity of the Scottish watershed within the so that something like 30 per cent of Royal Geographic Society, or its Scottish the watershed is protected.” equivalent, he pored over maps in order The watershed takes in a startling to chart his own path, before spending number of protected sites, 89 in total. 64 days walking the route in 2005. Starting on Kielderhead Moors which He’s happy that Ribbon of Wildness, straddle the border and finishing at his subsequent book about the walk, Duncansby Head in Caithness the list has been given a positive review in the of important areas for landscape and journal of the Royal Scottish Geographical biodiversity includes Ben More Assynt, Dipping down: Loch Maree from Society, which he sees as accreditation Forsinard, Glen Barrisdale, the Carrifran Glen Docherty of his line. valley and Rannoch Moor. A TASTE OF THE WATERSHED (SOUTH AND CENTRAL) The Reiver March – Ettrick Horseshoe The Moffat Hills are among the finest of the rolling hills that form the Southern Uplands, and the watershed’s meanderings amongst them provide not only good walking, but fine vistas, too. Route: Travel on B7009 from Selkirk to Ettrick village. Turn right and follow C road SW from there to park at Shorthope at 222126. Ascend by Lochy Law and Black Knowe to join the watershed at Bloodhope Head (3km). Follow the watershed clockwise around the headwaters of the Ettrick Water valley, crossing the Southern Upland Way at Ettrick Head and leaving it at Herman Law (19km). Descend by Standtrae Knowe and Cossars Hill to re-join C road, and on to Shorthope (4km) Total distance: 26km (walk time, 9-10hrs). OS Landranger: 79. Option to shorten route by parking at Nether Phawhope, or descending from Andrewhinney Hill The Laich March – around Gargunnock and Fintry Hills As you take a break at the ancient cairn WILDNESS UNDER THREAT the watershed is that it is, by definition, on the summit of Carleatheran, you will The watershed illustrates the immense upland. immediately be impressed by the wide natural forces that have sculpted Scotland’s According to mapping by the MacAuley views across the upper Forth Valley, with landscape; vast glaciers and tectonic Institute, 87 per cent of the watershed – the jagged skyline beyond. The rambling forces have carved and shaped the land, line of the watershed will have brought some 915km – has virtually no value for you to this special place, yet with much creating the network of winding ridges agriculture other than rough grazing and, that we marvel at today. The powerful of urban Scotland so close by. You may aside from Cumbernauld, which straddles just ponder the issue of wind farms too! Moine thrust has had a particularly the watershed as it journeys through the significant influence. By tilting the Central Belt, there has until now been Route: west of Scotland upwards, it forced precious little trace of habitation. Travel on B818 Fintry to Denny road. the watershed to dart westward at the Stop at western end of Carron Valley Great Glen from Laggan to Sgurr na As Wright points out: “There are only Reservoir and park in car park at the Ciche. From there, its line seems about 20 houses [on the watershed]. dam at 673858. Follow C road to NE to perilously close to the sea as There have been a couple of new ones join the watershed north of Cairnoch Hill (3km). Travel north by Hart Hill and it winds its way north. built directly on the watershed in the last couple of years but generally unless wind farm to Carleatheran. Follow the “I think that the wildest bit is where it you’ve got pots of money to build all watershed SW via Spout of Ballochleam takes that huge sweep westwards and the infrastructure you’re going to need, to Stronend (14km). Return to car park goes in to the ‘rough bounds’, almost into by spot heights on Fintry Hills to it is just not the right place to build a Todholes (6km) Knoydart,” says Wright. “The map there house. That in turn has determined is covered with what I have affectionately its emptiness. Total distance: 23km (7-8hrs). referred to as rocky doodles, where the OS Landranger: 64 contour lines just disappear into wee “Looking at how Scotland was colonised black squiggles. When you are on the over thousands of years, it started at the ground, that really is wild.” coast and on the islands, gradually worked up the river valleys and the very The watershed has remained wild for last place was on the watershed. Indeed many thousands of years, even as much in many places the watershed was just of the country was subdued by civilisation. ignored, as its consistent elevation Historically, much of it has been treated renders it unsuitable for most as the boundary of parishes, estates and agricultural activity.” farms, turning it into a kind of no-man’s land. Fundamentally what has protected > continued However, in the modern age, the DESIGNATING THE WATERSHED A TASTE OF THE WATERSHED watershed is threatened by development Wright is infectiously passionate about (NORTH) and changing land use. Commercial the watershed and he has big plans for its forestry, communication masts and future. He describes Ribbon of Wildness The Heartland March – above wind farms have all left a mark. “When as the anchor for a much wider project Ba in the Black Mount I was rewalking part of Eskdalemuir that will bring greater awareness and A demanding day out by any standards, Forest where the first generation of trees protection. Aiming to work towards but one that finds the watershed only a had been felled and the forest had been building a community of interest short distance from the salt water of Loch Etive on the one hand and well on restocked, I found to my horror that an around the route, he has a plan to its circumnavigation of Rannoch Moor area that six years ago had been forest recruit volunteers to look after sections on the other. Much rock and mountain, rides, right on the line of the watershed, by gathering information about their the promise of vast vistas, and wildness had partially been planted over with patch and observing changes to the aplenty. trees. In ten years’ time, anyone landscape. wanting to walk the watershed is “I want to work with whoever I can to Route: going to find that a problem.” Travel on the A82 to Glencoe Mountain promote awareness of the watershed, for Centre (White Corries) and park. Journey When writing about wind farms in what it is as something truly special and on the West Highland Way (WHW) south his book six years ago, Wright concedes an immense celebration of the best of to join the watershed at 282512 (3km). that he didn’t come down that hard Scottish landscape,” he explains. “In the Ascend via Meall a Bhuird and follow against wind farms on the watershed, longer term, I’d like to see the watershed the watershed anti-clockwise around but he would think differently if writing designated in some way. There’s no way the headwaters of the upper reaches today. “I’d say it was a thoroughly mad in its entirety that it would fit the bill for of the River Ba valley, by Clach Leathad, idea. There are two slap-bang on the a long, skinny SSSI, but there’s probably Stob Ghabhar and Beinn Toaig (16km). watershed, which paradoxically are some designation that could be used Descend to the WHW and return north reasonably sensitively located. However, that would help protect it.” to Glencoe Mountain (8km) others that are planned are creeping It seems as if the journey described Total distance: 27km (10-11hrs). closer and closer to the watershed and in Ribbon of Wildness is just the start OS Landranger: 41 & 50 to my mind it’s too prominent a location, as Peter Wright begins an even longer The Northland March – from so this notion that we should not have quest to bring more attention to this Crask into the Flow Country wind farms on the skyline is an precious strip of Scotland. important one.” The subtler pleasures of the Flow Country come to the fore in this venture, with the richer moorland colours, wide skies and Walking wild: Peter with Loch Nevis dancing light upon the lochans. The behind; Rannoch Moor from Black excitement of the terrain in this boggy Mount and deceptively beautiful landscape is so typical of the watershed. Route: Travel on the A836 north from Lairg. Park at the Crask Inn at 524247. Journey north to spot height 264 and Join the watershed at The Crask (1km). Ascend east to Cnoc Sgriodain and Carn Fheidh, and follow the watershed south and east to spot height 496 (16km). Return north and west via Loch a Bhealaich, Bealach Easach (re-crossing the watershed) to Crask Inn (14km) PETER WRIGHT Total distance: 31km (10hrs). OS Landranger: 16 PHOTOGRAPH: PHOTOGRAPH:

Further info Peter Wright has had a lifetime of involvement in the voluntary sector, working with both the National Trust for Scotland and the John Muir Trust. He received an MBE for his work developing the Duke of Edinburgh Award. His book, Ribbon

PETER WRIGHT of Wildness, is published by Luath Press. www.ribbonofwildness.co.uk About the author Rory Syme is the John Muir Trust’s Press and

PHOTOGRAPH: PHOTOGRAPH: Communications Officer. He can be contacted at [email protected] Sgor Gaoith, Cairngorm (photo: Anne Pinney)

... the UK’s largest and most active ski touring and ski mountaineering club offers a range of tours every year, as well as training courses and social activities. www.eagleskiclub.org.uk 4th British Ski-Mountaineering Symposium Join us on 10-11 December 2011 in Snowdonia for a weekend of expert speakers, mountain skills sessions and equipment sales, with guest speaker Stephen Venables. www.skisymposium.co.uk Eagles ski tour in Scotland Membership Secretary, Eagle Ski Club, www.eagleskiclub.org.uk 5 Fitzgerald Road, London SW14 8HA PHOTOGRAPHY: KEITH BRAME what thefuture might hold the Trust’s philosophy underpinninglandacquisitionsand 30 Britain can bemeasuredBritain ingolden eagle liked topoint out, landin thewildest Chairman Trust Dick Balharry former the case forscale iscompelling.As From theecological perspective, too, can walkforfour days andseenoman’. is stillawilderness, alandwhere you please leave that ofBritain ussomepart ‘But andincludedtheplea: Scotland, coast journeyonskisacross northern in1977about acoastto the Observer Brasher, putitwellwhenhe wrote in the Trust’s founders, theathlete Chris of of what One weaimtoconserve. its beginning;that is, thesheerscale challenge that hasfrom facedtheTrust ‘Acquisition Principles’ underplays the This excerptfrom theJohn Muir Trust’s and solitude.’ land:freedom,value wild tranquillity qualitiesforwhichhumansspiritual and biodiversity,can provide the be restored totheirnatural processes that theyretain orcan – or watersheds wholehillranges – sufficiently large it,whole landscapes within areas landistosafeguard ofwild conservation Trust’s‘The distinctive role inthe landintheUK. finest piecesofwild theyears,Over theJohn Muir has Trust acquired someofthe Buying wildness STRATEGY is that thewholeofsuchareas should and theCuillins inSkye. Our aspiration and West Assynt andCoigach, Lewis, the Cairngorms, Fisherfield, North Harris areas suchasKnoydart, – landscapes’ wild to safeguard asawholeBritain’s ‘finest three arms. Thefirstispurchases designed developed anacquisitionstrategy with With limitedresources, has theTrust practice what youpreach. credibility onlyachievedwhenseento safeguard, andalsogivesourviewsthe outright ownershipremains thesecurest communities.with Nevertheless, bodiesand otherconservation with andlegislation, andworkingpolicy the public,influencinggovernment communicating with has tobeindirect: of suchahuge area, much ofourwork If weare toprotect landvalue thewild developed countriesofEurope. of great value inthehighly wilderness Highlands asoneoffiveremaining areas 30,000 square kilometres oftheScottish identified(www.conservation.org) the InternationalIn 2002,Conservation requiring 50to100square kilometres. eachpairtypically with territories, land acquisitionstrategy Reflecting ontheTrust’s Denis Mollison Denis reflects on other conservation organisations.other conservation communities,with private ownersor in ownershipandmanagement, whether as cost-effective; that is, partnerships which weseeasgoodinitselfwell Thirdly, wevalue cooperation, of theborder. tobuylandsouth unsuccessful efforts has madethough somedetermined reasserted that itisaUKbody,and several timesreconsidered and England andWales. has TheTrust interestparticular here isthat of other landmanagers. Acase of and cooperating orinfluencing with threats, pursuing ecological restoration, strategicparticular value: deflecting areasother finewild that have ispurchasesThe secondarm in character. land oftheirwild conservation be managed aimof aprime with AUTUMN 2011 JOHN MUIRTRUSTJOURNAL before theofficialfoundingofTrust– – mentioned above. We began in1982 actively involved inallthe‘finestareas’ theyears,Over has the Trust been OUR BUYINGHISTORY Essential wildness (clockwise from opposite): Loch Coruisk, Skye; Loch Unapool, north of Quinag; shieling on the Galson Estate, Lewis

with an attempt to buy the whole of wider Assynt-Coigach area, with partners All our purchases have been at a modest Knoydart, then threatened with becoming including the Scottish Wildlife Trust, which cost level. The largest and most expensive, a military training area. Our first actual owns a large part of southern Coigach. Strathaird (60 square kilometres for about purchase, five years later, was of a small In other wild areas, we have looked £700,000) was only possible because we but very fine part of Knoydart, and in mainly to make small purchases of key had built up a Land Fund that covered 1999 we gave major help to the Knoydart areas. Sandwood (1993), Schiehallion half the price. Recent generous donations Foundation’s buyout of the main inhabited (1999) and Ben Nevis (2000) were and legacies are making it possible for part of the peninsula. motivated largely by access-related us to rebuild the Land Fund. Through the 1990s, with community threats, including the need for major Taking on new properties increases support, we bought four properties in path repairs. In 2004, we accepted recurrent costs but if we insisted on the Cuillins of Skye. A little later we our first donated property, Glenlude gold-plating these in advance, we would were involved in discussions of possible in the Borders. probably never make another purchase. acquisition, on our own or as part of The Trust also has a variety of If we make the right acquisition choices a community bid, of the remaining partnerships with a diverse range we can reasonably hope to increase large estate which includes the Cuillin of organisations, including the Nevis our resource base, and especially our Main Ridge. Partnership, the community at Galson membership, to an extent that will We have made major efforts in the on Lewis, the private owner at Corrour, cover our increased costs. Cairngorms, attempting to buy Upper and with the Borders Forest Trust at Trustees and staff are now revising our Glen Avon in 1984/5, and larger estates Carrifran. detailed acquisition strategy. It will, of with various partners: Glenfeshie in 1993 South of the border, our main efforts course, have to remain flexible to account (with RSPB) and in 1997, and Mar Lodge have been in Wales, where in the for the many different circumstances that in 1994/5 (with RSPB and WWF). The 1990s we came close to a purchase may arise. We would like to hear from Cairngorms are now part of a National in the Rhinogs, and more recently members, whether on consolidation or Park, with the National Trust for Scotland to a conservation partnership in the expansion, pristine land or restoration (Mar Lodge) and RSPB (Abernethy) Cambrians. In England, we have at opportunity, or on their enthusiasm both having large holdings. All of this the request of members considered a or lack of it for that elusive small but diminishes the case for any John Muir number of small properties, including perfectly formed wild land property Trust acquisition in the area, and we in the Peak District and on Dartmoor south of the border. do have substantial involvement in the (in 2005). And we’d like to hear member views on area through the John Muir Award. In land acquisition in general. My view is Fisherfield, the Trust attempted to buy WHERE NEXT? that land acquisition is not only a prime small but key properties on the south In nearly 30 years, we have built up aim, but that over the long term it also side in 1989 and 1992, and on the a splendid and diverse portfolio. brings us the resources and standing north in 1998 and 2000. While concentrating on those ‘finest essential to our partnership, policy In 2003, we helped the North Harris Trust’s wild areas’ our nine properties lie in and education work. community buyout of a large part of the six different Natural Heritage Zones, finest wild area in the Western Isles, and thus representing many different we continue to be actively involved in habitat types, and calling for a wide supporting its conservation work. Two range of management solutions. years later, we played an active role in This has been against a shifting political the Assynt Foundation’s acquisition of and social scene. In our first decade, we Glencanisp and Inverpolly. That same had much support from public funds, year a generous anonymous donation especially the National Heritage Memorial About the author Denis Mollison is one of the founders of the enabled us to buy the adjacent Quinag Fund. Then came community trusts, which Trust and a current Trustee. estate. Both estates are involved in the we have supported and worked with since Members’ views on land acquisition are very recently launched Living Landscapes their beginnings in Assynt, Eigg and welcome and should be directed to Mike Daniels, CALL project that covers much of the Knoydart in the early 1990s. Head of Land & Science, [email protected] 32 CLASSIC TEXTS Revisiting two of Fraser Darling’s JOHN MUIR TRUST JOURNAL most compelling texts AUTUMN 2011

Island Years covers the period between 1936 and 1938 when Fraser Darling, accompanied by Bobbie and Alasdair, lived on the three islands of Eilean

A’Chlèirich, Treshnish and Rona. There, DARLING Fraser Darling undertook his studies of sea birds and seals, despite the considerable difficulties of surviving on small remote islands. In the background, world events FRANK FRASER were deteriorating, culminating in Chamberlain’s flights to and from Munich in 1938. PHOTOGRAPHY: PHOTOGRAPHY: Fraser Darling describes how he hopes there will now be peace, but that is not to be. Although aged 36 in 1940, he had no previous military experience and so Island Years, Island was not liable for immediate enlistment. That did not stop him from questioning Farm, Frank Fraser his next move, however. Should he join up, or should he turn his experience in Darling Highland agriculture to good use and Paul Ramsay rereads two of work on the home front to prepare for the post-war world? Col. Ian Grant of the books –published together Rothiemurchus advises him to do the in one volume – that highlight latter. As an elderly subaltern he might Frank Fraser Darling’s well find himself posted as Railway Transport Officer for Fort William: formidable work ethic and and what a waste that would be. commitment to his science His conscience thus eased, Fraser In the Highlands, as elsewhere round the Darling heads for the island of Tanera globe, we have created our ‘wet deserts’, Mòr, the largest of the Summer Isles, but with proper care we can restore accompanied by the indomitable Bobbie, wilderness and plenty. and Alasdair during the school holidays. Throughout the two books, the reader is The republication of Sir Frank Fraser They set about the backbreaking tasks of Island Years Island Farm aware of the author’s driving commitment Darling’s and liming (best done at ten tons to the acre, to his science, to his extraordinary stamina by Little Toller Books is a most welcome but two tons will do for the time being) for struggle and survival, along with a event. Frank Fraser Darling is a fascinating and slagging the ground (1.25 cwt bags and enigmatic figure. Born of a single of slag) in which they are to grow crops. Herculean capacity to go on building mother, who had been cast out by her They rebuild the abandoned quay and and repairing heavy stonework. He puts family, in a hayloft on a Derbyshire repair the ruinous house. One dark, wild his experiences into lyrical prose that farm, he felt a powerful romantic evening, as they work, Fraser Darling declares his strong spiritual intent. affinity with Scotland. notices that Bobbie has gone blue and It is right that Bobbie’s photograph is on On the strength of a one-year diploma lifeless. He carries her to the house, the cover of the book because she took on in agriculture he got himself into where he strips off her wet clothes, puts a formidable task as Fraser Darling’s wife Edinburgh University to undertake her in bed, lights the primus stove and and helpmate – though it was perhaps a PhD in the genetics of the fleeces of boils a kettle with which to fill a hot unsurprising that they were to eventually blackface sheep. Having achieved his water bottle and give her tea to drink, split. Fraser Darling’s achievements in doctorate, Fraser Darling decided to a whole quart of it. As Bobbie recovers, those years were extraordinary and could research the ecology and behaviour of her husband notes that hard as things never have happened without her support, red deer. The subsequent publication are for them they at least can get as he laid the foundations of his human of A Herd of Red Deer in 1937 put an end themselves warm and dry: there are ecology for the Highlands, which are to his work on that species for the time probably men out on the Atlantic in as relevant now as ever. being, but created a marker for others upturned boats and without prospect Book details to follow. Having done so much work of rescue, he reflects. Island Years, Island Farm is available on one species, he might have been Island Farm From the pages of we through Little Toller Books, an imprint expected to continue in the same witness the fall of France and the of Dovecote Press. £10.00. vein but opted instead to examine the surrender of the Highland Division at ISBN 978 1 908213 01 3 periodicity of the breeding behaviour of Saint-Valéry en Caux. Fraser Darling www.dovecotepress.com sea birds, and the biology of grey seals. describes the devastation that is felt The book’s preface by Alasdair Fraser locally at this terrible blow. In these Darling, son of Fraser Darling’s first two books, brought together, we see wife, Bobbie – a charming photograph the coming together of threads that The reviewer of whom illustrates the cover of the made Fraser Darling’s human ecology. Paul Ramsay is a conservationist and landowner. book– conveys something of his father Wilderness and Plenty was the excellent He lives at Bamff with his wife, Louise. A former trustee of the John Muir Trust, he is preoccupied and there is an informative introduction title of his famous Reith Lectures of 1969 at present with the return of the Eurasian beaver by Professor Iain Stewart. and summed up what he was about. to Scotland. From epic ocean adventures BOOKS 33 to some of Muir’s finest writing

A Dip in the Ocean – Rowing Solo My First Summer in the Sierra, John It’s a Fine Day for the Hill, Hills, across the Indian, Sarah Outen Muir, 100th Anniversary Illustrated Folk and Wildlife 1935-62, Adam Reviewed by Rob Bushby Edition (in collaboration with Watson Yosemite Conservancy). Reviewed by Richard Rowe This book reminded me that great Photographs by Scot Miller adventures have three key ingredients: Reviewed by Susan Wright Snow, ice and the wild mountainscapes high endeavour, uncertainty of outcome of the Cairngorms have fascinated Adam ‘No words will ever describe the exquisite and shared experience. The last might Watson since early childhood – and set beauty and charm of this mountain park. seem odd for a solo row across the Indian the scene for a lifetime of ecological Nature’s landscape garden at once Ocean, but it is perhaps the element that study, exploration and adventure. tenderly beautiful and sublime,’ wrote comes across most poignantly in Sarah John Muir about Yosemite on 13 August, As the author notes in his introduction, Outen’s book. As part of the grieving 1869, but that didn’t stop the pioneering this book– its title taken from Watson’s process following the death of her father, conservationist from giving it a try. often optimistic proclamation to his wife, 23-year-old Sarah spent 124 days rowing My First Summer in the Sierra Jenny, following a glance outside – is across 4,000 miles of unpredictable ocean. catalogues testimony to his belief that exploring In doing so, she collected three Guinness daily the wonders of being in and around alone, preferably without any detailed world records, including the first woman Yosemite. Written over four months, as planning or formal training, is ‘the best and youngest person to row solo across he helped drive a herd of sheep from joy the hills can give’. the Indian Ocean. the central valleys of California to the mountains, Muir’s journal shows him to Growing up in lowland Aberdeenshire in There’s a strong collaborative spirit be a natural naturalist– as comfortable the 1930s, Watson’s sense of wonder and behind a driven approach that Sarah measuring the wingspan of a mosquito curiosity about the natural world brought portrays with grace, humour and as poeticising about the mountain him into contact with some of the great equanimity. It’s a journey that is shared landscape to which he feels so akin. Scottish naturalists and mountaineers of in a variety of dimensions: logistically, their day. In particular, the friendships with a small support team, global blog ‘How interesting everything is! Every forged with the likes of Seton Gordon, followers and worldwide radio listeners; rock, mountain, stream, plant, lake, Derry stalker Bob Scott, Tom Weir and with aquatic acquaintances en route; and lawn, forest, garden, bird, beast, insect Tom Patey shaped his life, and each with her family. Her father’s influence seems to call and invite us to come and has a chapter devoted to them. pervades the book as an inspirational learn something of its history and Such luminaries fired Watson’s reference point, and in a way that relationship,’ he writes. imagination in different ways, with celebrates the father-daughter bond. Along the way, we gain an insight into Weir the man responsible for introducing Much of the writing is conversational, late 19th century California life as Muir the author to the joy of skiing in 1947. with a vibrant energy, freshness and naive meets a small band of Native Americans Watson hardly looked back and he went charm of youth (with just the occasional managing to live outside of reservations, on to spend as much time in the snow bit of clunky prose and hyperbole). muses on the variety of ways that beans as possible. ‘Even when crawling on may be dished up at camp, and reflects The anticipation builds through a hands and knees in storms, or sitting on the environmental destruction compelling overview of the months of out squalls in snow-holes, I found snow wreaked by the gold rush (and sheep). preparation, gearing up to the journey so interesting that discomfort became itself. While we know its outcome, there’s In this edition, Scot Miller’s photographs secondary,’ he writes. a sense of both the drama and drudgery complement Muir’s musings but are This delightfully eclectic collection inherent in any grand adventure. And as somewhat overshadowed by the words. of stories and memories dating back Sarah leaves us with a tantalising glimpse However, sales of the book will benefit to his early schooldays charts the life of of her next trip – a circumnavigation of Yosemite Conservancy – a good reason a man, now in his eighties, who himself the globe by boat and bike – it feels like to plump for this edition if you don’t became an ecologist, conservationist, an invigorating pleasure to have shared own a copy already. prolific author and mountaineer of her marine adventure. Published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, considerable renown – with the wildlife Summersdale Press, 2011, £8.99. 2011. $30.00 (around £19.00). and landscape of the Cairngorms his www.summersdale.com www.hmhco.com specialist subject. ISBN: 978 1 84953 127 6 ISBN 978 0 618 98851 8 Published by Paragon Publishing, 2011. For a full review, see www.jmt.org/books ISBN 978 1 907611 58 2 34 PROPERTIES A glimpse at life JOHN MUIR TRUST JOURNAL on Trust land AUTUMN 2011

Glenlude, Scottish Borders

John Thomas introduces the John Muir Trust’s latest property–a wild place that gives the Trust our properties: a valuable presence in southern Scotland 1 SANDWOOD BAY 2 QUINAG 3 SCONSER, STRATHAIRD AND TORRIN ESTATES, ISLE OF SKYE On a calm April morning the cry of a curlew breaks the night 4 LI & COIRE DHORRCAIL, KNOYDART curfew and we catch the first warbling call of a black cock 5 BEN NEVIS lekking below us. I’m here with Robin, a local Trust member 6 SCHIEHALLION and volunteer, counting the remnant black grouse population 7 GLENLUDE at the top of Glenlude hill for the Southern Upland Partnership. The hills of the Scottish Borders are a lot wilder than many think, and Glenlude – the Trust’s most recent acquisition – is at the very heart of one of its most beautiful parts, just above Traquair near Innerleithen. Generously gifted by the late Sheila Bell, the Trust took active possession of Glenlude on her death in October 2010. Half the property is commercial forestry, half open hill. At 400 acres, it is the smallest of the Trust’s seven properties but provides wildland a valuable foothold in the Southern Uplands. quality index

Seemingly insignificant at first sight, take a walk around TOP 10% Glenlude and you will find a host of interesting opportunities: WILDEST LAND four burns waiting for riparian woodland; a peat bog inviting HIGH restoration; black grouse habitat in need of improvement and LOW protection; and open hillside that provides a blank canvas on which to explore and develop our conservation ideas. A preliminary survey by Liz Auty, the Trust’s biodiversity DR STEVE CARVER, WILDLAND RESEARCH INSTITUTE MAP SUPPLIED BY: DR STEVE CARVER, officer, has identified a range of interesting plants, while crossbill, owl, woodcock and hen harrier have all been observed on site, in addition to black grouse. We have many ideas to consider in developing the draft management plan for the property, including restoration of native woodland along some of the streams and around the ponds established by Sheila Bell, and improving black grouse habitat, ideally including restoration of the peat bog. Glenlude’s small scale and excellent access makes it well suited for exploring different conservation approaches. With Edinburgh only an hour’s drive away and Newcastle, Carlisle and Glasgow within a two-hour drive, Glenlude is ideal for introducing people from both sides of the border to volunteering. The large spruce and larch plantation, now ready for JOHN THOMAS thinning, presents its own challenges and opportunities. These will revolve around the economic value of the trees, the potential for replacing portions with native broad-leafed PHOTOGRAPH: trees and restrictions around commercial forestry. Glenlude also gives the Trust a stake in the landscapes of the Glenlude glade: a taste About the author south of Scotland, and with it the opportunity to participate of the Trust’s latest John Thomas is a Trustee of the John Muir Trust in partnerships which are beginning to look at conservation property and a lifelong hillwalker. He is based in St Boswells in the Scottish Borders. on a landscape scale. Further info There is much to do. That’s why the Trust is launching Look out for the Trust’s Glenlude appeal, which an appeal for funds that will provide a foundation for the is looking to raise £25,000 to begin management work on the property. The Trust is also setting up management of Glenlude, once a management plan has a Land Management Endowment Fund to provide been agreed. These are exciting times, for us, for the local secure finance for ongoing land management black grouse and for the other wildlife that might find costs across all John Muir Trust properties. a future home in Glenlude. Any additional funds raised for Glenlude will go into this fund. For more information and to make a donation, please go to www.jmt.org/appeals.asp, call 0300 321 4964 or text WILD09 to 70070. Rolling hill ground on the PROPERTIES Trust’s new property at Glenlude KEITH BRAME PHOTOGRAPH: PHOTOGRAPH: