HOME BODIES FASHION DESIGNERS DISPLAYED THEIR LATEST RIHANNA’S RETURN HOME OFFERINGS AT THE SINGER MADE GOOD ON A DESIGN WEEK IN PROMISE AT THE UNFORGETTABLE MILAN. PAGE 10 EVENING IN L.A. PAGE 9

A NEW DARLING Tumi Shares Soar On Opening Day

By VICKI M. YOUNG

NEW YORK — Tumi Holdings Inc., appears to be the latest beneficiary of the Michael Kors effect. Tumi went public on the New York Stock Exchange Thursday and shares of the upscale luggage and ac- FRIDAY, APRIL 20, 2012 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 cessories fi rm climbed 61.7 percent to $29.10 in intra- day trading before closing at $26.50, still a 47.2 per- WWD cent jump from the opening price of $18 a share. The $18 opening price, which was set Wednesday night, was higher than the expected offering range of $15 and $17. Selling nearly 18.8 million shares, the initial public offering raised $338 million, giving the fi rm a valuation of $1.79 billion. For the year ended Dec. 31, net sales and operating income were $330 million and $60.4 million, respectively. The company trades under the symbol “TUMI.” Tumi’s public debut follows on the heels of Michael Kors’ IPO in December, which raised $944 million. Shares of Michael Kors Holdings Ltd., which were priced at $20 each, have doubled since their debut. Shares of Kors closed Thursday at $41.90, down 2.5 percent, on a day when the Dow Jones Industrial Average dipped 0.5 percent to 12,964.10 and the S&P Retail Index inched down 0.6 percent to 621.21. Even though its shares have slipped slightly, Kors still has a market capitalization of nearly $9 billion. The success of Kors’ IPO has fi rms and their invest- ment banking advisers eyeing the public markets and rethinking how much brands are worth, as well as SEE PAGE 5 Guess vs. Gucci Wraps Up

By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD

NEW YORK — Paul Marciano left court with a smile on his face. The three-week trial, in which Gucci accused Guess Inc. of devising a “massive scheme” with its li- censees to infringe on the luxury brand’s trademarks, fi nally came to a close Thursday. “We had a good day,” the Guess chief executive offi cer told WWD. “I think we put up, in my view, overwhelming evidence of good faith that there was no infringement.” The case, which was fi led in Manhattan federal court in 2009, is centered on the notion that Guess — along with handbag licensee Signal Products Inc. and footwear licensee Marc Fisher Footwear — knocked off Gucci product, including goods that fea- tured the brand’s diamond-shaped logoed pattern, square “G” design, a signature script and tri-striped motif. Gucci is looking for damages of $221 million and injunctive relief. Game of Shadows Clad in a black suit, white button-down shirt and black striped tie, Marciano, who testifi ed two weeks Clinique has a new category in its sights for the Chubby Stick color earlier, seemed gratifi ed by the rousing closing ar- gument made by his attorney, Daniel Petrocelli of cosmetics franchise: Chubby Stick Shadow Tint for Eyes, an eye shadow O’Melveny & Myers LLP. in a crayonlike form. Due in September, the line will include 12 shades, Petrocelli, who is known for his work in the wrong- ful death civil suit against O.J. Simpson and for rep- each $16. Industry sources estimate they could rack up global retail sales resenting Enron ceo Jeffrey Skilling, had, until this of about $30 million in their fi rst year on counter. For more, see page 6. point, appeared more subdued than Gucci attorney Louis Ederer of Arnold & Porter LLP. Petrocelli built an argument that called into ques- tion Gucci’s motive for suing Guess three years ago after what Gucci alleges was nearly two decades of infringement. The lawyer pointed to e-mails between Guess and its licensees that discussed using Gucci product as inspiration for various designs. “When you’re sitting here in court and looking at one e-mail after another saying Gucci this and Gucci that…even to me it looks troubling…but people are confused by product, not e-mails,” Petrocelli said, ad- dressing presiding Judge Shira Scheindlin. “For the most part, the e-mails did not translate to PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO SEE PAGE 2 2 WWD FRIDAY, APRIL 20, 2012 WWD.COM Deal Reached in Show Date Discord THE BRIEFING BOX a three-year agreement, and not a 20-year one as By KATYA FOREMAN and NINA JONES somebody had suggested, and it’s a schedule that is IN TODAY’S WWD underwritten by all parties. We entirely approve of PEACE REIGNS — for now. this [confirmation], which is a sign of respect to all Following months of back-and-forth negotiations operators, buyers and editors involved, who, while over fashion week schedules among the Council of facing the complexities of the markets, can at least Fashion Designers of America, the British Fashion count on the certainty of the calendars.” Council, Italy’s Camera Nazionale della Moda Milan’s fashion shows will take place Sept. 19 Italiana and France’s Chambre Syndicale, an agree- through Sept. 25, then Feb. 20 through Feb. 26 and ment has finally been reached. Sept. 18 through Sept. 24 in 2013. The Camera has In a joint statement issued Thursday, the CFDA not yet confirmed its show dates for 2014. and the BFC confirmed that they have agreed Didier Grumbach, president of the Chambre on the dates for fashion weeks in New York and Syndicale, said he was “happy” with the decision. The London through September 2014. “Both the BFC Chambre Syndicale in December said its members and CFDA are confident that this confirmation will had voted unanimously to stick to its planned dates ensure the smooth running of both fashion weeks, for Paris Fashion Weeks in 2013 and 2014, thwarting and allow for designer brands and businesses in all weeks of efforts by organizers in New York, Milan and four fashion capitals [New York, London, Milan and London to reach agreement on the show schedule. EICHNER Paris] to successfully plan for the long term,” the The slotted Paris dates are as follows: Sept. 25 organizations stated. through Oct. 3; Feb. 26 to Koudlam performing at the STEVE New York Fashion March 6 and Sept. 24 to Oct. 2 Dom Pérignon dinner and art installation. BY

Week’s dates will run as in 2013, and Feb. 25 to March PHOTO follows: Sept. 6 through 5 and Sept. 23 to Oct. 1 in 2014. Sept. 13; Feb. 7 through The confirmation of dates Lawyers for Gucci, Guess and Marc Fisher presented Feb. 14 and Sept. 5 through comes amid speculation that closing arguments in their trademark trial. PAGE 1 Sept. 12 in 2013, and Feb. 6 Mercedes-Benz Fashion through Feb. 13 and Sept. 4 Week in New York could Tumi Holdings Inc. went public Thursday and its shares through Sept. 11 in 2014. be relocating once the five- climbed 61.7 percent to $29.10 in intraday trading before London Fashion Week’s year contract between IMG closing at $26.50. PAGE 1 dates will be: Sept. 14 and Lincoln Center expires. through Sept. 18; Feb. 15 Relations between IMG and Uniqlo, to boost its profile in the U.S. ahead of an through Feb. 19 and Sept. Lincoln Center are said to ambitious retail expansion, is launching an ad campaign 13 through Sept. 17 in 2013, be difficult, and sources with actress Dakota Johnson. PAGE 4 and Feb. 14 through Feb. 18 close to IMG said that the and Sept. 12 through Sept. company has explored other 16 in 2014. AQUINO venue options, but declined Former president George W. Bush will speak at the National Association of Chain Drug Stores’ Annual Meeting. PAGE 6 Steven Kolb, chief exec- JOHN to be more specific.

BY utive officer of the CFDA, Readying the tents at Lincoln Center. Many consider the said that the organization Hudson Yards project as Clinique is expanding its Chubby color cosmetics had “tried to change the PHOTO a potential venue for fash- franchise into eye shadow this fall. PAGE 6 dates and keep [the start] on the second Thursday ion week. The ambitious $15 billion development [of September and February], so that American project on the far west side of Manhattan as a po- As the battle rages on between local-sale sites such designers would have more time for the delivery tential site for future New York Fashion Weeks as Groupon Inc. and flash-sale ones like Gilt, it appears of fabrics and for preparing their collections. We was endorsed by Mayor Michael Bloomberg last the Gilt model is winning. PAGE 8 worked hard to get Paris and Milan to agree with November, more specifically its sprawling, modern the second Thursday start and, unfortunately, center called the Culture Shed. Rihanna wowed the crowd at the Unforgettable Evening, we were unable to convince them otherwise, and Whether IMG is seriously considering the site the yearly Entertainment Industry Foundation Women’s so our first Thursday start is based on Paris and when its contract expires in 2015 remains unclear. Cancer Research Fund benefit in Los Angeles. PAGE 9 Milan’s decision to not move their dates.” “We’re still within the contract [with Lincoln For September, the New York shows will therefore Center],” Peter Levy, managing director and senior One year after installing its paywall, The New York always kick off on the Thursday after Labor Day. vice president of IMG Fashion Worldwide, said. Times Co. on Thursday said 472,000 total paid digital “At this point, there is no issue for us,” Kolb added. “We consider ourselves solution providers, and we subscriptions have been recorded. PAGE 9 “We tried and didn’t succeed, and so we had to com- always look at necessary solutions and what is best promise our dates back to the first Thursday. Our ener- for the industry.” For the time being, “It’s business Home collections displayed during Milan’s design week gy is now best spent on being creative, and letting the as usual,” he added. reveal an effort by designers to reach out to emerging strength of American fashion be seen on our runways.” Stephanie Winston Wolkoff, director of fashion markets while remaining true to their brands. PAGE 10 Thursday’s announcement got the thumbs up for Lincoln Center and fashion consultant for IMG, from Paris and Milan. reiterated the contract between IMG and Lincoln “Common sense has prevailed,” said Mario Center. “When the time comes to revisit what the Max Azria and his company, Playboy, condoms, Boselli, president of the Camera Nazionale della future holds, both IMG and Lincoln Center will Carrefour and Wal-Mart are all mentioned in a rather PAGE 11 Moda Italiana. “I am pleased that an accord has make the decision,” she said. strange $220 million lawsuit. been reached, and it is one that took into consid- — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM eration two points that were important to us: it’s LUISA ZARGANI AND MARC KARMIZADEH ON WWD.COM

EYE: Dom Pérignon coupled with Rita Ackermann and Guess vs. Gucci Trial Comes to a Close French symphonic composer Koudlam for an informal Champagne-soaked dinner at Manhattan hot spot Acme. {Continued from page one} ment,” he said, referring to Guess and its licensees. For more, see WWD.com/eye. the product,” he said, adding that all brands look to “It was in fact a calculated scheme. When I say cal- their competitors for inspiration. “I think if we ask culated…I am talking about a mind-set.” for Tom Ford or Frida Giannini’s e-mails, we would Ederer explained that the defendants’ “entire CORRECTION see the same thing.” business model” was to come “as close to Gucci as Petrocelli then addressed the allegedly infring- you can” without being “noticed.” In the preceding Kim Crawford Wines is a New Zealand winery. This was ing marks, describing the script and square G de- weeks, Ederer presented correspondence that im- incorrect on page 2, April 9. signs in question as “weak trademarks” since other plied that Guess worked with licensees and manu- brands had similar designs. facturers to copy Gucci patterns and designs. TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. Switching gears, Petrocelli said Gucci must have “It’s all an infringement,” he said. “It’s all willful. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. been aware of what it sees as Guess’ infringing de- It’s knowing and deliberate every step of the way.” COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. signs for years. The attorney asked the court why But the judge seemed somewhat influenced by VOLUME 203, NO. 83. FRIDAY, APRIL 20, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, the plaintiff waited until 2009 to sue Guess and the defense’s argument that if Gucci had a problem March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Marc Fisher if the two firms had been knocking off with Guess’ designs, it should have acted sooner. Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Gucci for years in plain sight. She noted that Guess’ advertising showing alleg- Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at “I don’t know why they brought this case,” he said, edly infringing goods was widespread, and in many New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses explaining that some goods covered under the lawsuit cases in the same magazines as Gucci’s. She asked to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S were no longer in existence and, as a result, it was how Gucci could miss the “infringement” for so long. WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, hard to reconstruct the evolution of certain marks. “Gucci’s focus was and is on counterfeiting,” call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent “It’s their fault,” the lawyer said of Gucci. “They Ederer replied, but the judge didn’t seem en- label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless created the situation. They have no right to come tirely satisfied. we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on into court.” After going through the allegedly infringing all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all Marc Fisher’s lawyer, Darren Saunders of marks and discounting the testimonies heard over editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints Manatt, Phelps & Phillips LLP, gave a brief synopsis the last few weeks, the lawyer showed a slide with of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at of the case, parroting his co-defendant’s argument. side-to-side comparisons of Gucci products and the www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that Saunders said Gucci’s attorney kept referring defendants’ products. we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at back to only a handful of the 155 allegedly infring- “It’s time for the court to put its foot down,” P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ing shoes. He said that sample wasn’t large enough Ederer said. ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER to reach a broader conclusion on the case. Although there is no deadline for the judge to UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR But Ederer wasn’t having any of it. reach her verdict, sources close to the case said a DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A “This was a perfect storm of willful infringe- judgment should be delivered in the coming months. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. NO TO DARK SPOTS YES TO LUMINOSITY

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Walin & Wolff opened in New Canaan, Conn. Dakota Johnson’s Uniqlo Turn It was purely coincidental portrays “a young single mom By Khanh T.L. Tran that Uniqlo’s latest ad cam- and my brother is sort of a disas- paign, conceived with Dentsu, ter and comes to town and mess- VENICE, Calif. — To boost its pro- was photographed in Southern es everything up and helps take file in the U.S. ahead of an am- California with an Angeleno care of the daughter,” she said. bitious retail expansion, Uniqlo who’s been immersed in the As for her own personal is launching an ad campaign entertainment industry since style, Johnson prefers a casu- a with actress Dakota Johnson. birth. Claiming Tippi Hedren al look. “I like things that are r Mit

The latest in a series of as her maternal grandmother, comfortable and make me feel t celebrity ad campaigns that Don Johnson and Melanie good,” she said. “I like good r

previously featured Charlize Griffith as her parents and colors. I like red a lot.” Robe

Theron, Orlando Bloom and Antonio Banderas as stepfa- Retailing for $19.90, the cot- by Susan Sarandon, Johnson’s ther, Johnson started model- ton-polyester-spandex leggings

promotion spotlights Uniqlo’s ing six years ago when she was are available in sizes XS to XXL. Photos easy leggings pants, which 16. After graduating from high After spending two days earlier is one of the company’s core school, she started picking up this month modeling the leg- products along with denim and acting gigs, including small gings in seven different looks, Walin & Wolff Eyes Niche polo shirts. including what she described as “People in the United States “business outfit, daytime, night- don’t know about those prod- Dakota Johnson time,” Johnson vouched that the With Suburban Shoppers ucts,” said Shin Odake, chief appears in leggings, which are designed to executive officer of Uniqlo U.S. Uniqlo’s spring resemble five-pocket jeans with clined to specify the locations in New York. “So we need to in- ad campaign. an elastic waist, should have a By David Moin pending lease signings. troduce those products.” broad reach. She disclosed that she’s plan- The U.S. is ripe with op- The mood of the Uniqlo Walin & Wolff is a small ning to augment the assortment portunities. Uniqlo, aiming to photo shoot, held at the beach business with a big idea. with additional designer hand- reach $10 billion in sales in and in the backyard of an airy, The company is opening bags and will launch e-commerce North America by 2020, already modern house here, was just shops for designer shoes and ac- in the fourth quarter of this announced that it has signed a as easy and carefree. In one cessories in suburban towns with year or the first quarter of 2013. lease for a 29,000-square-foot scene, Johnson was loung- affluent clientele who would oth- Valentino handbags and shoes, as flagship near Union Square in ing next to a straw basket that erwise shop stores in Manhattan well as Manolo Blahnik, will be San Francisco. Currently oper- popped with color from juicy or possibly White Plains, N.Y., or added to the assortment in July. ating three stores in New York, oranges and plump red and Greenwich, Conn. “We can niche Walin & Wolff also sells jewelry, it’s also eyeing additional spots green grapes. Sporting a pink into markets where there isn’t scarves, sunglasses, belts and in New York and the suburbs, plaid shirt and light orange leg- competition and where there are small leather goods. Odake said. Los Angeles stands gings with her hair twisted into fashion-invested consumers,” Walin tends to the financial as another prime candidate for a loose bun, the lissome blonde said Christina Johnson, a part- and real estate aspects, while retail growth. described the mood as “just ner in Walin & Wolff along with Johnson is the retail merchant

“We want to expand ob- A hanging out with my friends.” Kim Walin. and operator. “We complement LL viously on the West Coast,” E To enhance the Los Angeles Johnson, who spent most of each other well,” Walin said. Odake said. “It’s a very impor- RD lifestyle, she donned sunglass- her career at Saks Fifth Avenue Other Saks alumni have joined SA tant market. We have a team es from Oliver Peoples, another where she was chief execu- the W&W team, including Jo ATO N

of people looking for real es- O fashion brand that’s hired her tive officer from 2000 to 2003, Polanco, the chief merchant; tate constantly.” D as a celebrity spokesmodel. and Walin, a former partner at Sal Lenzo, a visual merchan- BY Odake didn’t provide a time- “The feeling of the photo Ducane Capital and ex-retail dising consultant who worked HOTO

line for a store in Los Angeles. P shoot matched the clothing,” analyst, opened the first Walin & with the architect to create the When asked about following Johnson said. “The clothing is Wolff store early last month. It’s store and arranges the mer- fast-fashion rivals such as H&M roles as Justin Timberlake’s superbright and cute. Everyone a 1,900-square-foot unit situated chandise and props to create and Zara to Los Angeles locales Stanford-educated one-night is really happy.” at 36 Elm Street in New Canaan, window and in-store displays, such as the Beverly Center and stand in “The Social Network” The ads will roll out in Conn., where there’s a dearth of and Michelle Morgan Harrison, Third Street Promenade, re- and an undercover cop who Uniqlo’s global stores on April better brands, with a few excep- the store designer. spectively, he acknowledged busts high-school crime rings 20, then in Japanese media tions such as Ralph Lauren and The unit, a former Plaza Two the appeal of shopping malls in “21 Jump Street.” Her next TVCM, followed by local media shoe store, is long and narrow, and streets that host a concen- big-screen appearance is set in the cities where Uniqlo op- with a modern yet feminine tration of retailers. for April 27, as Jason Segel’s erates stores. Placement for Kim Walin and Christina Johnson decor that’s not frilly and is “We want to be where our much younger girlfriend in the New York market is still in marked by a sapphire blue logo competitors are, obviously,” “The Five-Year Engagement.” the works. In the past, Uniqlo with a pop of pink. There’s a 26- he said. “In Los Angeles, there “She’s really weird and re- ran ads in publications such as foot run of shelving and a com- is no Fifth Avenue or SoHo ally funny,” Johnson said in de- Time Out New York, New York fortable, residential decor that area [like in New York]. The scribing her character, named Magazine, The New York Times draws shoppers through the market is spread out in differ- Audrey. “The character was and New York Post. 1,200-square-foot selling floor. ent locations. In certain situa- supposed to be too young for “We are in the stage of There’s also a 700-square-foot tions, maybe the mall location him so he was really uncom- building a brand in the U.S.,” stock area downstairs. can be a flagship for that area. fortable all the time.” Odake said, declining to reveal “We like to make trend state- The point is: we want to open Johnson also recently filmed the budget. “The marketing ex- ments and take a lifestyle ap- up in an important shopping a TV pilot called “The Kids” pense is an important expense proach,” Lenzo observed. “It’s street or a shopping mall in with Lucy Punch for Fox. that we need to continue to about keeping it clean and sim- that specific area.” Directed by Jake Kasdan, she spend to build our brand.” ple and not overdoing it.” For example, there are es- padrille and wedge statements in the front with a variety of la- bels. There’s another statement PCPC Backs Cosmetics Safety Bill of bright-colored shoes, and a separate cork and metallic WASHINGTON — The Personal keeps pace with product innova- the FDA to review all safety theme. Certain designers have Care Products Council en- tion, as well as the demand for determinations made by the their own statements, includ- dorsed legislation introduced in transparency.” Cosmetic Ingredient Review ing Salvatore Ferragamo and the House Wednesday that aims The cosmetics and personal Expert Panel, an independent J. McLaughlin. Johnson knows Stuart Weitzman. “We can do to strengthen federal oversight care product industry has an panel of scientific and medical the suburban turf well, being a 14 statements and have room of the cosmetic and personal estimated $60 billion in annual experts that assesses the safety resident of Greenwich and wit- in between,” Lanzo observed. care products industry. retail sales in the U.S. and em- of cosmetics ingredients used nessing plenty of fallout over The bulk of the merchandise Rep. Leonard Lance (R., ploys 8.2 million people in the in the U.S., and determines if the years of mom-and-pop-type is casual though there’s plenty N.J.) introduced the Cosmetic U.S., according to the council. the CIR’s findings are correct. If specialty boutiques closing, cre- that’s suitable for work and Safety Amendments Act of 2012 The legislation would make the FDA rejects a CIR finding, ating an opening. evening. Shoes generally range that would modernize federal the current voluntary manufac- the agency would be required “I think we’ve got a niche and from $300 to $500; jewelry aver- oversight of cosmetics and turer registration programs of to determine under what condi- a real business,” said Johnson, ages $250. Other key brands are personal care products by the facilities and products manda- tions the ingredient can be used whose maiden name is Wolff. Diane von Furstenberg, Miss Food and Drug Administration. tory, as well as the reporting safely in cosmetics products. “We believe there is a 10- to 15- Trish, Kors, Kate Spade, C by “FDA regulation of cosmetics of any serious and unexpected “Everyone agrees that we store opportunity over time.” Chloé, L.K. Bennett, Cole Haan has protected the public for de- adverse events experienced by need to update the regulation A 1,500-square-foot Walin and Tory Burch. cades and this landmark legisla- a consumer. of personal care products,” & Wolff unit will open in Rye, Coming up with the Walin tion will enhance protections for The bill would also cre- said Lance. “This bill will con- N.Y., in August, and an office/ & Wolff concept was “easy,” millions of American consum- ate a formal review process at tinue to advance consumer distribution center will open Johnson said. “For any retailer, ers,” said Lezlee Westine, the the FDA for ingredients safety safety and provide a regulatory in Portchester, N.Y., in June. shoes represent the backbone” of council’s president and chief ex- and set safety levels to trace framework that furthers growth Two Walin & Wolff shops in the business. It’s also the catego- ecutive officer. “Cosmetics com- impurities, as well as create and innovation for American Westchester, and a third in ry that’s typically the initial draw panies recognize the need for a national uniformity for cos- cosmetics manufacturers.” Fairfield County, Conn., are in to the store. As Johnson said, modern regulatory process that metics regulations and require  — Kristi Ellis the works for 2013. Johnson de- “Shoes become a woman’s entry.”

w20a004a;7.indd 4 4/19/12 7:39 PM 04192012194037 WWD FRIDAY, APRIL 20, 2012 5 WWD.COM Fall Each season, one of Zack Carr’s 50 looks sketch books will serve as a loose inspira- from tion for the new Carr collection. “I think Carr. Start the Carr there’s an authenticity of design coming from Zack that is the foundation, which is when his friend Ken Petti had the “aha” really important, but we don’t have to live By MARC KARIMZADEH moment. “He looked at me and said, on that,” Jones said. Added Carr: “I be- ‘George, give it up. Give up the exhibit, lieve our Carr team has completely trans- NEW YORK — A deep burgundy color give up the charity events. You have a lated the line as Zack would have wanted plays a key role at Carr, a new brand brand. Call it Carr.’” With that, he con- it — not for then but for now.” launching this fall. The hue is inspired tacted Jones, who he knew from their own The women’s lineup will wholesale by a vintage Chevrolet once driven by the days at Calvin Klein, where both worked from $225 for a stretch cashmere T-shirt mother of George Carr, in sales and marketing to $655 for a paneled wool coat; the who founded the label Carr’s principals in the Seventies, and men’s, from $87.50 for wool pants to $575 with industry veteran George Carr and presented his concept: for a two-button suit. Edward Jones III. Edward Jones III. a women’s and men’s As of press time, the Bloomingdale’s Family is an impor- collection based on the doors to carry the women’s merchandise tant theme behind this sketches, in addition to was yet to be finalized, but it will be car- designer line. At its Carr family memora- ried in New York’s 59th Street flagship on core is a large collec- bilia and samples from the third floor, next to Giorgio Armani and tion of fashion sketch- the Zack Carr collec- Chanel. Stephanie Solomon, vice president es from Zack Carr, tion, which the late de- of fashion direction at Bloomingdale’s, George’s late brother, signer operated for four cited various elements that make Carr ap- who was best known for years in the Eighties. pealing. “The quality, the fit, the fact that it having served as Calvin Jones immediately was well thought-out and the details are re- Klein’s creative direc- bought into the idea markable, and not overdesigned,” she said. tor and right hand for and they joined forces, aesthetic is modern and clean with slight “It brings a sense of elegance and definitely nearly three decades. with Carr serving as architectural touches — not surprising, a design point of view for a woman who is He died from a rare director and Jones as given the Carrs’ Calvin Klein background. very chic. It’s not over the top, but just beau-

form of blood cancer AQUINO chairman. They tapped For men, looks include slim-fitting tiful clothes, and there is really a void in the in late 2000. “While Scott Formby, an alum three-button suits, a black leather blaz- market for the simplicity of these designs.” he was living with this JOHN of Geoffrey Beene, J. er with exterior pockets and narrow The men’s, meanwhile, will initially paralyzing cancer he BY Crew and Lucky Jeans, jeans. For women, there’s a black collar- be carried by six Saks stores, including just sketched his heart as designer. less leather jacket, a sleek slip dress, a the Manhattan flagship’s seventh floor. out,” George Carr said. PHOTOS Through fall 2013, burgundy leather shell top with match- “We developed a beautiful product “There are thousands of these sketches.” the women’s launch lineup will be car- ing skirt and several more romantic and didn’t want to initially concentrate Carr carefully preserved the 50 ried exclusively at Bloomingdale’s, looks, such as a printed bias-cut dress. on selling lots of doors,” said Jones, de- Hermès croqui books his brother used and the men’s exclusively at Saks Fifth Accessories include custom-made boots clining to discuss sales projections. “We for his illustrations. He was trying to de- Avenue. Divided into four groups (collec- in collaboration with Lucchese and silver wanted it to be something special, which cide how to honor Zack’s design legacy, tion, sport, denim and accessories), the belt buckles with Clint Orms. is where we ended up.”

Tumi Latest IPO Success Story A rendering of the Rebecca Taylor store launching in June.

{Continued from page one} arts and crafts chain Michaels Stores wondering if they, too, can grab a share Inc. is looking to raise $500 million in an of the public equity pie. IPO expected later this year. Michaels Tumi and Kors are the latest in a se- Stores was taken private by Bain Capital ries of fashion firms accessing the pub- and Blackstone Group in 2006. lic markets worldwide. Private equity firm Carlyle Group LP Ferragamo went public in June in is said to be looking to raise between Milan. Its stock closed Thursday at 15.33 $701.5 million and $762.5 million. May 1 euros, or $20.09, above the closing price is when the IPO is expected to price. In of 9.95 euros on their first day of trad- a regulatory filing, Carlyle said it plans ing. All conversions to U.S. dollars are to sell 10 percent of the company, or at current exchange. 30.5 million shares priced at between Prada SpA also went public in June $23 and $25 each. That range would in Hong Kong. The firm’s shares closed value Carlyle at more than $7 billion. Thursday at 51.75 Hong Kong dollars, or On Thursday, though, the focus was on $6.67, above their debut at 39.50 Hong Tumi. Founded in 1975, the company was Kong dollars. incorporated in Delaware in September Tumi’s closest competitor is 2004, in connection with its acquisition by Luxembourg-based Samsonite funds managed by London-based private Rebecca Taylor to Open Madison Ave. Flagship International SA, which went public in equity firm Doughty Hanson. early June, also in Hong Kong. Samsonite Based in South Plainfield, N.J., Tumi signer wants to expand her footprint in raised $1.25 billion, is known for its By SHARON EDELSON Hong Kong, where there is a store at the after pricing its shares innovative use of Harbor City mall. Bugdaycay said the at 14.50 Hong Kong dol- ballistic nylon, the NEW YORK — Rebecca Taylor may live company is considering IFC Mall, Times lars at the bottom of same used by law in Brooklyn, but she’s a downtown girl at Square and Pacific Place, and eyeing the a revised price range $26.50 enforcement agen- heart. To wit: stores in the Meatpacking Marylebone neighborhood in London. due to a weaker global cies for SWAT gear District and NoLIta, and recent edgy “It’s similar to NoLIta,” Bugdaycay market then. The stock CLOSING PRICE OF TUMI’S and cargo bags, and collections. Taylor in June will have an said. “We can open as many as 20 to 25 closed Thursday at SHARES THURSDAY. has positioned itself uptown address when she unveils an stores in the U.S.,” she added. “We want 15.12 Hong Kong dol- as a prestige brand. 1,870-square-foot flagship at 980 Madison to stick to more densely populated areas.” lars, or $1.95. A deluxe wheeled Avenue, between 76th and 77th Streets. Taylor is designing the Madison Next up is Brunello Cucinelli SpA, leather brief with laptop case under its The store will carry a large assortment of Avenue store for busy women who “are which on Monday kicked off its road Alpha line sells for $995. A women’s leath- Rebecca Taylor ready-to-wear, handbags, shopping more online and have lots show. Sources in Milan said the offering er Nicols everyday tote from its Sloane shoes, limited edition collaborations and of different venues to choose from. has already been twice oversubscribed. collection retails for $495; although a fab- exclusive products. Shopping has turned into a guilty plea- The company is expected to begin trad- ric tote, the Toulon pocket tote from the “We have a huge customer base up- sure. It has to be an experience. ing on the Milan Stock Exchange on Voyageur line, is priced at $295. town,” Taylor said. “She is coming to our “We want the Madison Avenue store May 3, offering a 30 percent stake in the Travel products comprised 46 per- Meatpacking and NoLIta stores, but we to feel a little undone,” Taylor said. “The company with an aim to raise 151 mil- cent of net sales in 2011; business cases want to make ourselves more accessible Meatpacking District store on Gansevoort lion euros, or $198.4 million. Based on 40 percent, and accessories were 14 to her.” Street has a French quality. The Madison a pricing range of 6.75 euros, or $8.87 percent. The company said in a regu- Elizabeth Bugdaycay, chief execu- Avenue store feels like an art gallery.” at current exchange, and 7.75 euros, or latory filing in December, when it first tive officer of Rebecca Taylor, declined The store will have polished cement $10.20, that would value the company filed its plans to go public, “We have to divulge sales projections but said the floors, and old ballet bars will be used as at between 405 million and 465 million grown at a compound annual growth Madison Avenue store is expected to racks for holding products. Curving walls euros, or $532.3 million to $611.2 million. rate of 12 percent in net sales and 16 be the company’s highest-grossing unit are accented by oversize Russian white Fashion isn’t the only sector tapping percent in operating income from 2005 with a volume forecast to be 40 per- oak doors that lead into the fitting rooms. stock markets. Since the beginning of through the last 12 months ended Sept. cent greater than Taylor’s Meatpacking Throughout the space will be pops of pink the year, more than 30 firms have gone 25, 2011.” The company distributes its District shop. neon lighting, one of Taylor’s signatures. public in the U.S., and more are on the products in more than 70 countries Three more Rebecca Taylor stores “We’ve been able to accelerate our horizon. The biggest one waiting in the through 1,600 points of distribution. will open this summer in Scottsdale investment in retail since we were ac- wings is Facebook, expected in mid- Boosting the strength of the luxury Fashion Square, Atlanta’s Phipps Plaza quired by Kellwood,” Bugdaycay said. May. Founded in 2004, the social net- sector has been a rising equity market and The Westchester mall in White Kellwood is also enabling Rebecca work site is hoping to raise at least $5 and, in the case of Tumi, an upswing Plains, N.Y. That will bring the number Taylor to do something it never did be- billion and, according to press reports, in tourism. According to the latest data of new stores in 2012 to nine. Taylor next fore: advertising. The designer in the fall could be valued at up to $104 billion. from Nycgo.com, tourism in New York year plans to open eight stores, including will break its first ad campaign, which According to a Securities and City alone rose to 48.8 million visitors units in Chicago, San Francisco, Boston, will be seen on taxis and in fashion publi- Exchange Commission filing last month, in 2010, up from the 45.6 million in 2009. Dallas and Bal Harbour, Fla. The de- cations, which have yet to be determined. 6 WwD friday, april 20, 2012 beauty Beauty to Be Top of Mind at NACDS Annual NEW YORK — President George W. Walgreens, are battling against man- Bush will make a rare speaking engage- aged care providers and have built ment at the National Association of new stores less dependent on the Chain Drug Stores’ Annual Meeting this pharmacies,” said industry con- week, and he is a fitting choice, as the sultant Allan Mottus. “In midst mass market cosmetics business is show- of this political turmoil in health critical ing its first healthy sales gains since his care, the beauty industry is con- by early days in office. solidating and becoming less de- mass Drugstore cosmetics sales rose 4 pendent on drug chains and, as- Faye Brookman percent between 2002 and 2003 to $1.7 suredly, the potential acquisition of billion. Similarly, this year the catego- Avon by Coty could be devastating on ry has gained 3.5 percent, according these retailers.” to data from Symphony/IRI Group, fol- More than 25 beauty marketers, and lowing depressed sales between 2009 close to 60 retailer companies, will sit and 2010. down in cabanas situated along the But just as his presidency was marked Atlantic Ocean over the four-day meeting by economic ups and downs — the most and hammer out what the future of beau- severe downturn ignited by the shock ty in drugstores will look like. Should re- of the 9/11 terrorist attacks — retailers tailers continue to go more upscale with coming to the meeting at The Breakers in premium brands? Or should they be con- Palm Beach, which begins Saturday, pon- cerned with the exit of Beauty 360 and der industry changes that can reshape what that could mean for moving up in the nature of their business. price points versus catering to a value- “With its focus on the intersection conscious consumer. LEEK of business, politics and policy, the “Wet n Wild has been the fastest- NACDS Annual Meeting has established growing top 10 beauty brand for the last itself as the premier event for leaders 16 consecutive months,” said Markwins STEPHEN in retail, pharmacy and the supplier International’s president and chief oper- BY ating officer Bill George, voicing his sup- community. President Bush’s participa- PHOTO tion as the keynote speaker in 2012 re- port of the value pricing strategy. A scene from a past NACDS Annual Meeting. flects and advances this event’s impres- Can the mass beauty business keep up sive legacy,” said Steven C. Anderson, in the digital and online shopping world? that reps would be instrumental in for- ing when retailers, including Walgreens’ NACDS president and chief executive That question will be the top of mind eign countries where Coty’s celebrity Joe Magnacca, CVS’ Judy Sansone and officer. “President Bush led the U.S. for Wendy Liebmann, founder of WSL fragrance business is not as healthy as Family Dollar’s Michael Bloom, discuss response in some of the most critical Strategic Retail. She said she’d be inter- in the U.S. how suppliers can expand their busi- moments in our nation’s history, and we ested to see if retailers are in tune with Avon’s hiring of former Johnson & ness within their chains. In total, more are eager to hear his remarks at a time the impact of digital and online shopping Johnson executive Sheri McCoy as its than 2,100 industry executives will at- of no less uncertainty.” when it comes to beauty. incoming chief executive officer will tend the event — considered the gold While beauty sales are thriving, it is Coty’s quest for Avon has ignited also play into the meeting — McCoy standard of industry brainstorming. a challenging time for the trade chan- speculation about the future of the di- is scheduled to open one of the day’s Entertainers scheduled to appear in- nel. “Former president George W. Bush rect marketer. “Coty could use Avon’s business sessions. clude Chris Isaak and The Moody Blues. will address NACDS at a most auspi- sales representatives to sell its prod- Unofficially, the meeting kicks off to- Celebrities are expected such as swim- cious time for both the health care and ucts,” said Mottus about one reason night with a private Revlon reception mer Dara Torres, the brand ambassador beauty industries. Drug chains, such as Coty wants to ring Avon’s bell. He said and gets into full gear Saturday morn- for AmLactin.

Arden Taps Clinique Eyes New Territory for Chubby Stick Chubby Stick Shadow Tint and the new retail globally to the overall Chubby fran- Restrepo By Julie Naughton Chubby Stick lip colors, noted Agnes chise. In the U.S., they will be available Landau, senior vice president of global in about 2,000 department and specialty Clinique is focusing on a new catego- marketing for Clinique, are consumers in store doors. Elizabeth Arden has ry with its popular Chubby Stick lip fran- the 19- to 32-year-old range. Print advertising for the eye products named Rebecca Restrepo as chise: eye shadow. will break in September fash- its first global makeup artist. In September, the brand ion, beauty and lifestyle books. “We searched for an art- will launch Chubby Stick Landau noted that the ist who could inspire, edu- Shadow Tint for Eyes, an eye brand’s North American cate and connect with our shadow in a crayonlike form. makeup sales are up 8.3 per- community and Rebecca is The line will be launched cent this fiscal year to date, the perfect fit,” said Kathy globally simultaneously, with and that the lip category is Widmer, executive vice the exception of Asia, which up 10 percent in the same president and chief mar- will get the line in October. period, fueled by Chubby keting officer for Elizabeth “We’ve experienced great Stick lips. To keep the mo- Arden Inc. “Rebecca will success with our Chubby Sticks mentum going, the brand is serve as a brand spokesper- for lips since launching them also doing its first national son and creative adviser on last year,” said Lynne Greene, TV advertising campaign for everything from educational global president for Clinique, color cosmetics with a com- videos to beauty consultant Origins and Ojon, adding that mercial for Chubby Stick training.” it’s the number-one lip prod- lips, noted Quintero. The ad, Restrepo will also work uct for Clinique. “We will add which will begin appearing closely with the brand on eight new lip shades to the line on May 7, will run for three trend forecasting and edi- in June and it made perfect weeks, and then will be used torial and film projects sense to expand the concept regionally until this fall, and she will share advice to the eye area. Also, we are when another flight of na- with consumers through now established as the skin tional exposure is slated. Elizabeth Arden’s social care authority, which is our An ad for the new eye products. A robust digital campaign, media channels and on- heritage — and expanding our which includes digital market- counter tools. strategy to color.” Twelve Chubby Stick Shadow shades ing, taxi tops and taxi TV, will also break “Elizabeth Arden is a The shadows go on in a sheer wash and will be sold, each with a suggested price in May. One part of the digital campaign brand I’ve known and loved have buildable properties, said Greene. of $16, noted Landau. Playful color names — which will be on the brand’s Facebook my whole life,” said Restrepo. “We believe that this product will not only include Lavish Lilac, Mighty Moss and page, as well as clinique.com —includes a “As an artist, it is exciting to appeal to our existing consumers, but draw in Curvaceous Coal. mix-and-match concept for the lip shades, partner with a brand that not a younger demographic as well,” said Ricardo While Clinique executives declined showing consumers what color will result only makes quality products, Quintero, senior vice president and global comment on projected sales, industry when two or three of the colors are com- but also shares my passion for general manager of market development at sources estimated that the Chubby Sticks bined. The strategy is intended to fuel mul- making beauty accessible to Clinique, citing the product’s portability and for lips would do $100 million at retail tiple buys, said Landau, adding that con- all women.” youthful shade names among the factors. globally in the next year, with the Chubby sumers can e-mail the results to a friend in — J.N. Among the biggest opportunity for eye products adding another $30 million at the form of a digital kiss.

w20a006(7)a.indd 1 4/19/12 7:54 PM 04192012195624 WWD.COM Blumarine’s New Love: Innamorata

markets and the Far East,” he is composed of ylang ylang, mag- THE By CYNTHIA MARTENS said. “We’ll reach the U.S. in nolia, frangipane and grapefruit January or February 2013.” flower, and the fragrance dries MILAN — For all those women Though Martone declined to down with hints of benzoin, with butterflies in their stom- provide a dollar estimate, indus- creamy musk and cashmeran. achs, Blumarine is launching try experts anticipate first-year Innamorata will be available 2012WINNERS a new fragrance: Innamorata, sales of about 10 million Euros, in three sizes. In Europe, a 1-oz. which will hit the European or approximately $13 million, version will sell for 44 euros, market this month. for the fragrance. while 1.7 oz. will be 65 euros Innamorata targets “any and 3.4 oz. will be 86 euros. woman in love,” emphasized Stateside, those prices will be REVEALED Blumarine founder Anna Blumarine $50, $70 and $92, respectively. Molinari at a press presentation Innamorata Parisian designer Thierry De • in Milan, noting that “You can Baschmakoff devised the bottle fall in love at any age.” in faceted crystal on a circular Molinari said the eau de par- base, with a zinc cap in platinum- M AY 18 fum is “very seductive, sensual gold that picks up the floral lace and romantic, and it follows the of the packaging. “Blumarine theme of our fashion. It’s very Innamorata” appears in glossy re- important for a woman to match lief across the bottle’s rosy label. her clothes to her mood, and Innamorata will also feature also her perfume to her mood.” a body cream, lotion, bath gel Roberto Martone, president and deodorant spray. of ICR-ITF, which holds the li- Michelangelo di Battista cense for Blumarine fragrances, shot the fragrance’s advertising said the perfume will initially Two noses worked on campaign, which shows model be available at 4,000 doors, and Innamorata, Sophie Labbé and Alyssa Miller in a gold sequined later distribution will reach Olivier Polge of International dress, straddling a scooter and 6,500-7,000 doors. “We’ll launch Flavors and Fragrances. The top resting her head against her lov- at first in Europe, then we will notes contain bergamot, manda- er’s back as she gazes languidly extend distribution to the Arab rin and passion fruit; the heart at the camera. Iceberg to Launch Burning Ice for Men

MILAN — Italian fashion house firmed for U.S. distribution. fragrance could generate 2 Iceberg blows hot and cold with The fragrance, cre- million euros, or about $2.6 its new men’s eau de toilette, ated by Bernard Ellena of million, in first-year sales. Burning Ice. Symrise, has top notes Omedia agency Brigitte Wormser, vice presi- that are sharp, with worked on the ad dent of creation and develop- icy touches of berga- campaign, which ment marketing for Perfume mot and apple spiced Danish photographer Holding, which holds the with cardamom, while Sune Czajkowski shot Iceberg fragrance license, said the heart is softer and in Paris. Argentine the scent targets self-confident, warmer, with sage model Matias Chico sensual young men aged 20 to 30. muscatel, patchouli, Hernandez perfectly “The fragrance is built on amber, musk and incarnates the “im- contradictions,” Wormser said. cashmere vanilla. petuous, noncha- “It’s the juxtaposition of fire and T h e I c e b e r g lant” attitude the IT’S OUR BUSINESS TO ice,” for a man who possesses store on Milan’s Via The new Iceberg scent. fragrance represents, both a Latin lover’s charm, and Montenapoleone has said Wormser, and a certain aloofness that appeals created a special window display the campaign is slated for print, KNOW BEAUTY’S BEST. to women. “It’s a fragrance that using Burning Ice bottles, each of billboards and television. really shows the strong person- which resembles a chiseled block The fragrance is available in ality of the brand,” she added. of ice, with a faintly blue tint, two versions, 1.7 oz. (26 euros, An Italian rollout is underway, red lettering on the front and a or about $34) and 3.4 oz. (33 to be followed by Eastern Europe minimalist, opaque silver cap. euros, or about $43). A 5-oz. and Russia — an emerging mar- Wormser said the bottle’s mul- deodorant spray (10 euros, or ket for the brand — and finally tiple facets are designed to catch about $13) and 6.7-oz. shower Asia and South America later this light at unusual angles. gel (13.50 euros, or about $18) BEAUTY INSIDERS’ year. The fragrance is not yet con- Industry experts speculate the are also available. — C.M. CHOICE AWARD Borghese Breaks Into Hair Category LUNCHEON Comprised of botanically-en- By BELISA SILVA riched cleansing and styling prod- ucts including Daily Shampoo WITH A HISTORY that spans and Conditioner, Styling Hair over seven decades, beauty brand, Gel, Fibre Styler, and Pomade, FRIDAY, MAY 18, 2012 Borghese is moving forward, but Borghese’s newest range — like not without looking back. its sister collection — is meant to In January, the company, address the customer’s desire for WALDORF=ASTORIA/NYC which until then had specialized Borghese’s men’s line. performance, affordability and primarily in skin care, cosmet- simplicity of message. ics and spa products, introduced Charles Revson, the company “These products fit into the 11:00 AM – COCKTAILS its first hair care collection, a has had a rich history. Members ‘wash and wear’ mentality,” said women’s range called Borghese of the Borghese family — which Eluk. To that end, the men’s Professional Hair Care, created rose to prominence in the 13th products are said to be gentle 12:00 PM - 2:00 PM – LUNCHEON in conjunction with Primary One century — included nobility and enough for frequent use and Brands. Next up is a men’s hair high-ranking clergy. The beauty offer both “volumizing and con- & AWARDS PRESENTATION line, launching this fall in 2,500 brand was born based on heav- ditioning” benefits. CVS, Duane Reade and Target ily guarded secret recipes, Priced between $13 and doors. Industry sources believe created from fruits and other $18, the formulas also contain the addition of the hair care cat- natural ingredients found in exclusive botanical blends egory could add $10 million to the Borghese Botanical Garden. found in Borghese’s skin care the company’s portfolio by the “Typically you have premium and cosmetics offerings, name- year’s end. brands in department stores, ly the brand’s mineral-rich “We wanted to maintain segregated to a certain income, Acqua di Vita (water of life) the integrity of the brand and which doesn’t give access to all Living Water Complex, which REGISTER NOW! translate it into hair care,” consumers for these kinds of is utilized in all Borghese said Anthony Eluk, president products,” said Eluk. “We’ve products. Sourced from the and chief operating officer of taken the salon technology and spa waters in Montecatini, CEW Primary One Brands. Founded the brand’s proprietary actives Italy, it is said to help oxygen- in 1956 by Princess Marcella to make a line that performs ate skin, lock in moisture, and .ORG Borghese and Revlon founder and is consumer friendly.” provide antiaging benefits. 8 WWD FRIDAY, APRIL 20, 2012 WWD.COM beauty Flash Sale vs. Local Sale: One Model Outperforms Items from Physicians Formula ed that one of the top problems with daily Skin Care. By RACHEL STRUGATZ deal sites is that customer information isn’t available to merchants, a critical com- WHEN IT COMES TO fashion online, it ponent of any sale because it allows the might be better to think national rather small business owner to reconnect with than local. the buyer. That’s not true of flash-sale sites That appears to be the growing consen- where the merchant has the e-mail and sus among fashion brands and industry shipping information of the customer. observers as the battle rages on between There are other flaws in the daily deal local-sale sites such as Groupon Inc. and model that are not inherent in the flash- flash-sale ones like Gilt. Right now, it ap- sale model. pears the Gilt model is winning. Marc Caltabiano, vice president Groupon certainly is making more of products and marketing at Cartera news of late — its stock hit an all-time low Commerce, noted that an inherent flaw in Thursday, closing at $11.76, a drop of 54.9 the daily deal model is the reliance on a percent from its opening price of $26.11 voucher, which essentially operates on a when it went public Nov. 4. The decline “hands-off relationship” basis. follows news of multiple lawsuits over a For Mo Yehia, co-founder of daily deal larger-than-expected net loss last month, site API Sqoot, the deal model works pri- while additional factors — such as flaws marily where there is power in the local in the model that fail to provide enough community. “Eighty percent of the dis- customer information to participating re- counts are spent [near where] you live, or MITRA tailers — are leading many to question the in Manhattan within 10 blocks,” said Yehia. fate of “daily deals” in the online arena. With respect to flash-sale sites such as

ROBERT Groupon pioneered the local deal phe- Gilt Groupe, however, Mulpuru has found BY nomenon in the online space when it that brands and manufacturers — versus a Physicians Formula’s Second Act launched in 2008, and the company went pub- retailer, for example — will reap the most

PHOTO lic five months after its initial public offering benefits. This is because merchandise can Formula an opportunity “to see what filing in June. Ever since then, there has been come directly from where it’s sourced, and By MOLLY PRIOR platforms were the strongest and to backlash, controversy and speculation as to there is often a large amount of product or fine-tune the product selection, mer- whether the brand should have gone public overstock readily available, which isn’t al- INGRID JACKEL is obsessed with chandising and marketing tools.” For in the first place due to accounting practices ways the case for a retailer or independent, her iPhone these days: It’s the tool instance, it found the line didn’t need that have raised a multitude of questions. But neighborhood boutique, where a local deal she uses to keep constant watch over as many graphic panels at the shelf. all the hubbub is unlikely to have any effect might be the only viable sale option. Physicians Formula’s sales in the “Why waste the space that we’d rath- on the apparel industry, according to experts. “Even if something is 50 percent off, the mass market. er dedicate to new products. We saw Sucharita Mulpuru, online and multi- manufacturer is still making some money be- “There’s nothing more exciting to me the performance wasn’t affected by channel retail analyst at Forrester Research, cause they are part of the value chain where than to look at our point-of-sale data,” less visuals,” said Jackel. said fashion isn’t a significant classification there is the greatest margin to start with. said Jackel, the brand’s chairman and Of the three regimens — namely in the local-sale space because it’s challeng- There is a huge markup that manufacturers chief executive officer. “There were a ·· Aging (purple), Moisture Balance ing for brick-and-mortar retailers to gener- charge the retailers, and then the retailer few years where that wasn’t the case.” (blue) and Sensitivity & Redness (red) ate a profit from this type of online deal — usually doubles the price,” Mulpuru said. The brand is hitting its stride once — products in the antiaging plat- while the flash-sale model lends itself more For example, if a pair of jeans retails for again, after dealing with a string of form performed the best. That said, to this category. $200, this means it prob- recession-era hurdles. more antiaging products are slated “I had a conversa- ably costs less than $50 to In 2007, the problem-solution to launch mid-year, said Jackel. She tion with a mom-and- make — so if the manu- cosmetics brand was riding high on added the brand plans to introduce a pop shop [recently], and facturer charges anything mineral makeup — it was touted for new skin care platform in 2013. they just don’t have the 54.9% more than $50 it will still bringing the trend to the mass market Physicians Formula’s move into skin margins [to partake in a turn a profit, even if the — but the recession introduced an care is intended to broaden the brand’s local deal]. It’s too rich DROP IN GROUPON’S STOCK FROM consumer is able to snag unexpected challenge. A number of reach. “We expect that we are acquir- of a cut that Groupon OPENING PRICE OF $26.11 NOV. 4. a pair at nearly 75 per- mass retailers began to destock their ing new customers who may not walk takes. From the get-go cent off. Mulpuru said inventory — cutting stockkeeping down the cosmetics aisle,” said Jackel. it’s a nonstarter. I cer- this is a great deal for units and in some “Clearly it’s incre- tainly haven’t heard of anyone getting a tre- Gilt, and flash-sale sites have the ability to cases entire brands mental revenue. It’s mendous amount of success from offering “liquidate with a sense or urgency to affluent — in a move intend- had a positive im- them,” Mulpuru said. customers who like brands — if there is that ed to streamline We are back to pact on the business, She explained that, if a retailer part- much leftover merchandise to sell.” their assortments not only in terms ners with a company such as Groupon, it Jyothi Rao, Gilt Groupe’s general man- and boost sales. of revenue but in is looking at a 50-50 split of an item at a 50 ager, women’s, contends that although the For some retail- a double-digit brand awareness.” percent discount — and with margins that company has seen success in the apparel cat- ers, like Walgreens, The company’s are “50 percent at best, it’s really hard to egory both with its original flash-sale format the strategy backfired growth rate, net sales rose 3.1 per- make that work, especially if you think of and local-sale counterpart Gilt City, the fash- and stores ultimate- cent to $80.9 million lifetime value and future customers. “ ion business is “far greater” on Gilt Groupe. ly had to add back which is where in 2011, and net sales Mulpuru added that, for some of the “Gilt City’s focus is primarily on experi- some merchandise. in the fourth quarter bigger and more attractive retailers that ences and services, and ours tend to be more But, not before gained 12.7 percent work with Groupon, the Web site has been focused on product and that’s generally beauty brands felt we were before to $23.1 million. willing to compromise with a variable com- how we position our business. I know when the pinch. In its fis- “We are back pensation structure. they’ve sold certificates for apparel prod- cal year ended Dec. the recession. to a double-digit According to a spokesperson from ucts, they have had success with them, and 31, 2010, Physicians growth rate, which Groupon, deals on the local-sale site are we work in concert with each other. We have Formula’s net sales — INGRID JACKEL, is where we were roughly broken up into the following clas- some strong partnerships with brands and declined 31.8 percent PHYSICIANS FORMULA before the reces- sifications: 30 percent food and restau- we generally go in together and strategize — to $77.8 million sion,” said Jackel. rants; 30 percent spa; 30 percent activities what will make the most sense,” Rao said. from $114 million — The brand also and retail, and 10 percent miscellaneous. She cited Theory’s upcoming sample due in part to the loss of Walgreens as has increasingly set its sights abroad, Any scan of Groupon will tell consumers sale as illustrating this notion. Gilt City will a retail partner. Walgreens now sells and last year expanded to Mexico, that retail is a small percentage of the of- offer tickets for early access to the physical Physicians Formula on its Web site. Turkey, Trinidad, El Salvador and ferings. As a result, one could infer that re- sale in New York City and Gilt Groupe will Physicians Formula came back Panama. It plans to ship to five more tail accounts for less than 30 percent of the run a digital, flash version of the sale. swinging last summer when it ex- markets in Latin America over the com- overall category — perhaps as little as 10 “In terms of city and more local deals, I panded its offering beyond color cos- ing months. And then it will turn its at- to 15 percent of overall deals. think it [Gilt City] lends itself more to a more metics to skin care. In August, it intro- tention to Europe, said Jackel, adding, The company disclosed larger retail considered purchase, if you can imagine duced a 14-sku cosmeceutical range “It’s a slow process, but it’s exciting.” brands that performed well include the that in our space. It allows members to have called Physicians Formula Skin Care International markets account for Gap and Old Navy, with 5,000 and 100,000 more time to make the decision on whatever in 2,400 Wal-Mart Stores Inc. doors. At 13 percent of company sales. deals purchased, respectively. On the more they’re buying, even if it’s a certificate,” Rao the time of the line’s launch, Jackel ··The company also has eight cosmet- localized level are deals such as ones with said, noting that with Gilt City deals, the said, “this could be material in chang- ics platforms on deck this year, includ- boutiques in Englewood, N.J., and mul- discounts aren’t as deep (as they are on Gilt ing the future of the brand.” ing Youthful Wear, a cosmeceutical tiple locations of Ground Zero Clothing Groupe) and certificates are nonrefundable. This year, the skin care range is foundation, and pH Matchmaker, which and Boardshop — with total deals listed as Flash sales are a “much more immedi- slated to roll out to more than 8,000 is formulated with light-adjusting pig- “over 1,000.” Groupon doesn’t reveal final ate gratification business” for Rao, who be- doors across multiple retailers, in- ments. Existing platforms, like Mineral totals of sales, so final units sold might be lieves the reason this model works so well cluding CVS Pharmacy and Ulta, and Wear, are seeing double-digit growth, higher than numbers listed on the site. for appeal is due to a heightened sense regional chains such as Fred Meyer said Jackel, adding “that means we are At a panel presentation Tuesday at the of urgency and a competitive element, and Bartell Drugs. capable of sustaining innovation and Daily Deals Summit at the Crown Plaza “which a lot of women really enjoy.” Jackel said Wal-Mart’s exclusive growth in a category that many aban- Times Square in Manhattan on “Making — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS launch window gave Physicians don [after the initial launch]. the Deal Model Work,” panelists conclud- FROM VICKI M. YOUNG DOWN HOME: Fashion designers, including Giorgio Armani, unveiled their latest home collections at design week in WwDSTYLE Milan. PAGE 10 RiRi’s Return LOS ANGELES — A sore throat kept Rihanna out of last year’s Unforgettable Evening, the annual Entertainment Industry Foundation Women’s Cancer Research Fund benefit, but this year she made good in front of Steven Spielberg and his expertly handled camera phone. For more, see page 11. on i at d oun F

try s u d In nment i nterta E

for s e g Ima ella/Getty d Sar Donato by photo

say, a double-dip recession. grandmothers. “We often have Naundorf worked closely with Memo pad The company reported a multiple generations from the Chanel, Jean Paul Gaultier, dramatic rise in net income same family shopping at the same Christian Lacroix, Elie Saab, DIGITAL WORRIES: One year during the first quarter to time in our store,” Smith said. Valentino and Christian Dior after installing its paywall, $42 million, compared to $5.4 Former first lady of New to create the images, using The New York Times Co. on million a year ago. This was York Michelle Paige Paterson increasingly rare 4-by-5-inch Thursday said 472,000 total largely due to the sale of its appeared with her 23-year-old or 8-by-10-inch Polaroid paid digital subscriptions have Regional Media Group, resulting daughter, Ashley Dennis, and her films. A selection of the been recorded. This upward in a substantial tax benefit. own mother, Kay Johnson. Sherry photographs will be shown trend in digital contributed to a Investors asked about the Brewer, the ex-wife of Edgar at the Bernheimer Fine Art total circulation increase of 9.7 “dramatic drop” in ad pages at Bronfman Jr., was photographed Photography gallery in Munich percent. It will be interesting T: The New York Times Style with her 24-year-old daughter, from June 20 to late July. to see if momentum continues Magazine and The New York Hannah, a writer and activist. — JOELLE DIDERICH during the second quarter, as Times Magazine. According to Other models included author readers adjust to receiving 10 free Media Industry Newsletter, both Jill Kargman with her daughters articles a month instead of 20. titles are down 11 percent, year Sadie, 8, and Ivy, 5, and Annie While circulation was a to date. Executives claimed both Georgia Greenberg, an editor at bright spot during the period, titles are feeling the same pinch Refinery29, with her mother, the company didn’t have as as the rest of the magazine Ella, a special education much success on the ad side. business, although T is doing Tunics by Calypso. teacher. — SHARON EDELSON Print ad revenues fell 7.2 slightly better. percent and digital ad revenues Near the end of the call, one LIKE MOTHER, LIKE DAUGHTER: HAUTE SHOTS: For the last seven dropped 10 percent, largely due analyst asked chairman and Calypso is getting ready for some years, German photographer to declines in The About Group. publisher Arthur Sulzberger Jr. mommy-and-me action. The Cathleen Naundorf has been making During a quarterly earnings if he would be willing to step brand’s popular tunics are now haunting large-format Polaroids call with investors, executives into the role of chief executive available in girls’ sizes, two to of couture dresses in fantastical pointed to a shift in psychology officer, since the position has eight. Stefanie Smith, Calypso’s settings. Some 100 of these in digital ad spending that’s not been filled following the president, noted that the girls’ images are published in the become similar to print. Up departure of Janet Robinson. products are available for a coffee table book “Haute Couture, until the middle of last year, He didn’t bite. “We’ve made limited time. To publicize the The Polaroids of Cathleen digital seemed insulated from progress on the search for a products, Calypso has developed Naundorf,” due to be released by potential economic concerns new ceo,” he said, adding the an ad campaign, “Generations Prestel Publishing on May 15 in but that advertiser mind-set company will take its time in of Style,” featuring high-profile Europe and June 15 in the U.S. has changed and digital is just order to find the right person. New York women and their A disciple of legendary “Secret times (Grand Palais I)” from as sensitive as print to fears of, — AMY WICKS daughters, sisters, mothers and photographer Horst P. Horst, “Haute Couture.”

w20a009a;4.indd 1 4/19/12 7:54 PM 04192012195508 10 WwD friday, april 20, 2012 For more salone coverage, see Pieces from the Versace Well Furnished home collection. WWD.com A flurry of rose and mi- By LUISA ZARGANI mosa patterns embellished Blumarine’s lilac and pink sofas, MILAN — Staying true to testimony to designer Anna themselves was the mantra for Molinari’s passion for buds. Italian designers displaying “There is a return to brand their new home collections dur- identity and products that are ing Milan’s design week. very recognizable,” said Versace, To balance wobbly consumer poured into a black and gold dress spending in Europe and other that blended with the pattern of regions, the design world, like the sofa she was sitting on. “There the fashion one, is increasingly is too much uniformity around.” Maestri

reaching out to emerging mar- “I don’t know if you can fur- ide v a

kets. And designers are taking nish the whole house with these D

notes: Those regions are hungry pieces,” conceded Cavalli, “but by for the essence of the brands and I love it, I’m really happy. I take the lifestyles they communicate. ideas from my fashion, and the It isn’t surprising then that home line complements that. photos Roberto Cavalli’s first home col- I want it sexy. I love color not rosso lection included zebra-print arm- only in fashion but also in furni- chairs and the “Jaguar” spotted ture. When I see those minimal, and rug. Donatella Versace’s collection Japanese-style, very rigid de-

was a joyful trip through her color- signs, I don’t like them.” Versace ful, iconic patterns, framed by the The designer signed a slew of brand’s Greek frieze — all mark- licensing agreements for the col- Rossana Orlandi to launch Milly, ments, adapt to your life and our ing a strong return to her brother’s lection, including with Industrie his first home collection. “I start- own interior decor,” said Maier. Renzo original Baroque sensibility. Emiliana Parati for wallpaper ed from fabrics, for which I have Home collections have been Rosso Giorgio Armani’s Oriental and Caleffi Group for bedding. a great affinity,” said Marras. serious businesses for years, and touch and workmanship, such Walter Ragazzi, chief execu- “This collection represents a sort designers continue to invest in re- as a French technique from the tive of Idea SpA, which produces of ideal continuation of the last search and development, joining Twenties and Thirties that em- Blumarine furniture, said the line, runway show. It’s a kind of patch- forces with qualified producers. ploys straw, was entirely in line now in its third season, has dou- work of the fabrics I used for my Case in point: Diesel introduced with the designer’s sensibility bled sales over the second season. fall collection.” its kitchen, made by Scavolini, and aesthetics. He attributed the gains to the fact Spazio Rossana Orlandi ceo one of Italy’s best-known kitchen “The Oriental way of think- that the collection is “very much Aldo Cingolani said the collec- specialists “The kitchen is the ing is not characterized by one personalized. One of its strengths tion particularly fits the requests long-lasting pièce de résistance single logic but is the result of is that it is recognizable, with coming from emerging markets, in the home. Brands have to be thousands of influences and over- the designs that characterize the including Asia, Russia, Brazil more and more about lifestyle, lappings that express themselves Blumarine brand.” Ragazzi said and India. “They don’t buy single and I felt we needed to add this to through different symbols and that customers in China, Russia pieces, but they look for complete the collection,” said Diesel chief decorations,” said Armani. “I and the Middle East buy into the stylistic solutions, and they also Renzo Rosso. from the previous year, but that look for established names that The brand’s home business the growth derived only from ex- have re-elaborated them accord- “general concept,” and customize Caps: reassure clients,” he said. now totals 13.5 million euros, or ports, while the company saw a 10 ing to my taste for linearity and their houses with a whole “proj- Pieces from the Versace home Conversely, Bottega Veneta $17.7 million at current exchange. percent drop in Italy. For this rea- for the essence of things, trying to ect,” not necessarily single pieces. collection. creative director Tomas Maier “It’s beginning to be relevant, and son, Missoni is changing strategy, maintain the incredible richness Antonio Marras teamed up A view of the Roberto Cavalli home said he couldn’t “imagine some- I want to bring it to 100 million opening up to department stores of signs, which enchants me.” with Milan-based design retailer collection. one having a house” entirely euros, or $131.1 million, in three more, with dedicated spaces at La Renzo Rosso decked out in the brand’s line. or four years,” said Rosso. Rinascente and Coin, and “selling “Most of the people who come to Versace Home accounts for 10 by project, and not by product cat- Phillipe Starck us are clients that shop our other percent of sales, and its dedicated egory,” said Jelmini. Diego Della Valle categories. They share the sensi- Web site has grown 230 percent In Milan, where it introduced eye bility for the aesthetics, for what since 2010 and sells in 44 coun- its furniture collection last year, the company stands for, and they tries (the main online markets are Hermès presented its new Module appreciate the make, the last- Australia, the U.K. and the U.S.). H series of panels, in the size of ing quality and design, never too Missoni, which developed the brand’s iconic scarf, and in loud,” said Maier. flame-patterned, super-resistant different materials — from can- The designer chose to mix woven vinyl carpeting with Bolon, vas to leather or crocodile hide, vintage pieces by Dimore Studio is also growing its home business, to name a few. The panels can be with his own items, which includ- mainly through hotels, with the combined in infinite variations on ed the “floating” desk or dresser third expected to open in Oman an aluminum grid. “This is a very with drawers in lacquered parch- next year, and providing designs creative idea. It leaves a lot of ment and the Tassello seats in for condos in Manila and Toronto. room to the imagination, for per- collaboration with Poltrona Alberto Jelmini, Rosita sonalized, never standard spaces,” Frau, such as a suede sofa made Missoni’s brother and ceo of T&J said ceo Patrick Thomas of the with foam and feathers that took Vestor, which produces Missoni system, which was developed with A view of the Roberto almost two years to develop. “I Home, said the home business last Japanese architect Shigeru Ban. Cavalli home collection. wanted to show how this furni- year had sales of 21 million euros, — With contributions by ture can live in different environ- or $27.5 million, up 10 percent Alessandra Turra

A stone’s throw away, et Objet in Paris. Other brands Philippe Diego Vionnet creative directors joined forces with renowned Starck Della Valle Party Barbara and Lucia Croce, Luisa design firms: Sportmax windows Beccaria and Coco Brandolini featured a Rimadesio bookshelf; d’Adda were among those joining Salvatore Ferragamo showed Consuelo Castiglioni at the Marni an installation by Constance store to fete the launch of a Guisset for Molteni & C.; Vionnet Chairs special collection of 100 metal presented wood objects The motto “less is more” and PVC chairs manufactured by young designer Christopher was central to Philippe by Colombian ex-prisoners. All Kautz, and Moncler displayed Maestri

Starck’s speech Wednesday proceeds will be donated to ide a down-covered seat by v a

night at the presentation the Institution of Attenuated D Gilles & Boissier.

of the designer’s new chair Custody for Mothers, an by On Tuesday, Wallpaper created in collaboration with association that helps mothers and Brioni hosted a cocktail

manufacturer Emeco. Starck, detained at Milan’s San Vittore photo to celebrate the magazine’s a supporter of the eco-friendly to live with their children in third annual Handmade de-growing philosophy, which apartments outside the prison, and Fabio Novembre. Tod’s chief Italians,” he said. “I hope it’s exhibition, which is on show advocates a gradual decrease said Marni director of special Diego Della Valle said he will the starting point of a process until Sunday at the Brioni in material use, created the projects Carolina Castiglioni. have his first trip on one of that will allow travel across store. The exhibition features Broom Chair using plastic and Hogan focused on the new high-speed trains he Italy in a more civilized way.” a string of collaborations wood waste materials. photography, unveiling “Future developed in partnership with Accessories brand Gherardini between designers, artists “This chair is made of dust,” Roots,” an exhibition and Ferrari president Luca Cordero hosted a cocktail party to and manufacturers including said Starck, who the previous book consisting of 56 portraits di Montezemolo on Saturday. preview its first furniture Alexander McQueen, Karl night had presented the Kartell of 56 artists and designers, “I think it’s a good thing for collection, which will be Lagerfeld, Neil Barrett, Guerlain Goes Rock chair — created with including Patricia Urquiola, Italo the image of our country, for officially launched in January at and Comme des Garçons. Lenny Kravitz — at the Kartell store. Rota, Jean Nouvel, Karim Rashid the tourists and also for the international trade show Maison — WWD STAFF

w20a010;9.indd 10 4/19/12 7:44 PM 04192012194608 2x5 (right)

friday, april 20, 2012 For more photos, see WWD 11 WWD.COM eye. Rita Wilson in WWD.com/ Nina Ricci and Sheryl Crow in Alice + Olivia. Fashion scoops

IT MUST HAVE SEEMED LIKE A GOOD IDEA...: Organizers said “The artist” star What do Max Azria, his company BCBG Max Bérénice Bejo would be the master of azria Group, Playboy, condoms, Carrefour ceremonies on opening and closing night. and Wal-Mart have in common? They — JOELLE DIDERICH AND KATYA FOREMAN are all mentioned in a rather strange $220 million lawsuit against azria and BCBG filed Thursday in a los angeles Carine Roitfeld in state court. The complaint was filed by the Mario Sorrenti Jimmy Esebag, Camden Healthcare and campaign image. united Medical devices in connection with a proposed transaction that involved Playboy condoms, whereby BCBG allegedly would acquire the Playboy license and try to get the condoms sold at Wal-Mart and Carrefour. The transaction never materialized. The nine-complaint suit, which includes fraud and breach of eye contract claims, alleges that azria misrepresented BCBG’s financial ROITFELD MAKES UP: MaC Cosmetics is health and refers to the designer as expected to reveal today that it will

photo by todd Williamson todd by photo a “narcissistic braggart with a sense launch a limited edition color cosmetics of grandeur and self-importance that line with Carine Roitfeld. set to launch has little relationship to reality.” this fall, the line has a heavy focus on The plaintiffs are seeking actual and the eyes and brows, mirroring Roitfeld’s exemplary damages and other relief the signature smoky eye, bold brow and nude Redemption Day court may deem proper. lip. Roitfeld consulted on all aspects of While Thursday’s suit generated lots the collection, including package design, Talk aBOuT PayBaCk. aT honorary chair Steven Spielberg as she of press attention, it isn’t the first time product names and color palettes; she Wednesday night’s 15th annual spun by. The director, like seemingly esebag and azria have legally tangled. also appears in the collection’s ad image, unforgettable evening, the yearly everyone else in the crowd, recorded according to a spokeswoman for BCBG, the shot by Mario Sorrenti. — JULIE NAUGHTON entertainment Industry Foundation the spectacle on his iPhone. parties were participants in arbitration in Women’s Cancer Research Fund benefit The intimate yet raucous set (Amber a related matter filed in March 2011. “Max CLASSICAL COLLABO: new york-based in los angeles, Rihanna made good on Valletta and several others danced was victorious in the prior arbitration contemporary artist Kehinde Wiley is best a promise from last year when a sore on tabletops) capped off an evening relating to this matter, and we are known for his neoclassical portraits of throat kept her from performing at the honoring Glamour’s Cindi Leive and confident he will also be victorious in the african-american men, among other saks Fifth avenue-sponsored event. Sheryl Crow with the nat king Cole and present lawsuit,” she said. — VICKI M. YOUNG subjects, in contemporary streetwear. His “I said I would make it up to you Courage awards, respectively. models’ clothes are typically their own, all, so I hope you sing along if you “I bow down to you women,” said CLOTHES CALL: Fashion will be at the but for his soon to be unveiled portraits know the words,” she said before leive of fund co-founders Jamie Tisch, heart of next month’s Cannes Film of african-american women — the starting a rendition of Bob Marley’s Quinn Ezralow, Marion Lurie, Anne Douglas Festival, and not just on the red carpet. artist’s first female series — he found a “Redemption song.” and Meyer. “Well, I literally would if Rumor has it French designer Jean Paul fashion collaborator in Givenchy creative It was the only cover in her set, I weren’t wearing a tight skirt.” The Gaultier will sit on the jury headed by director Riccardo Tisci, the artist’s dealer, which relied otherwise on her own editor accepted her award on behalf of Italian director Nanni Moretti, though sean kelly Gallery, told WWd. For the deep catalogue of hits including her mother, whom she lost to cancer. festival president Gilles Jacob is saving works, entitled “an economy of Grace,” “Only Girl in the World,” “umbrella,” Crow, whom Rita Wilson called “a rock the announcement for next week. “I Tisci designed six dresses for the models, “What’s My name?” and “We Found goddess,” battled breast cancer in 2004 can’t confirm it, but I am not denying who Wiley cast on the street in new love,” the last of which she performed and has since endowed an imaging it either,” Jacob told WWd on the york and painted in poses inspired by amidst the dinner tables, giving hugs center for early detection of the disease. sidelines of a press conference revealing portraits of 18th- and 19th-century society to entertainment Industry Foundation she said, “I’m now a member of the the official selection of movies in women. The works will be on display Women’s Cancer Research Fund MsH Club, which stands for ‘Make s--t competition at the 65th edition of the at the gallery starting with an opening co-founder Kelly Chapman Meyer and Happen.’” — MArCY MEdiNA festival, scheduled to run May 16 to 27. reception on May 5. — MATTHEW LYNCH

in the shape of the word “Brooklyn.” Marisa The actress, a proud daughter of the Tomei in borough, was serving as honorary chair Preen. for the museum’s annual Brooklyn artists Ball and was taking in the museum during cocktail hour. “One of the honorees spoke so For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. beautifully about her childhood here in Brooklyn and that there were so many free programs — they just happened to be free — they Spaces were fantastic: art for kids stuff and all kinds of crafts stuff, it wasn’t just fine art,” the actress said. “My COMMERCIAL mom brought me a lot to that kind REAL ESTATE F/C BOOKKEEPER of thing here, and the library too of Min 7 yrs exp. course, because my mom’s a teacher... A/R A/P G/L ADP EDI Quick Book or Apparel Software Ecel [which means] you get the extra Email: [email protected] intellectualism and all the government WAREHOUSE MANAGER services. you know, the good stuff.” Showrooms & Lofts Require an experienced Warehouse/ a random sampling of art and BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Inventory Control Manager in Long Is- Great ’New’ Office Space Avail land, NY. Should be energetic, Comput- social regulars, including Dustin Yellin, ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 er savvy especially Excel and able to handle apparel software. Email yr re- Gloria Steinem, Connie Chung and Judy Seeking a dynamic Sales Assistant for Private Sublet at 53 West 36th Street sume to [email protected] or fax Chicago turned out for the evening. at 212-398-2579. its Global Wholesale Division in NYC. Partial 3rd Floor - 1600 Square Feet Must be creative, organized, and a self- photo by scott Rudd scott by photo after remarks by museum director Beautiful mint-condition, open area, starter! Fashion sales & customer showroom and office service experience required. Great op- Arnold Lehman and donor Elizabeth Call Julie 212-353-2003 x68 portunity and growth potential for the Sackler, one of the event’s honorees, right candidate! Please send CV to who announced an endowment for a [email protected] curator for the museum’s elizabeth Artful a. sackler Center for Feminist art, guests headed upstairs for dinner in SALESPERSON the museum’s Beaux arts court. The Apparel company carrying latest in- ventory requires an energetic salesperson place settings at each of the 40-foot well acquainted with major buyers, dinner tables had each been conceived PATTERNS, SAMPLES, able to assure minimum $ 5M sales in a Dodgers PRODUCTIONS year. Fax your resume to 212-398-2579 by one of 16 Brooklyn-based women Full service shop to the trade. or email to [email protected] On Wednesday, at the Brooklyn artists, including Swoon, Malia Jensen, Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 Museum, Marisa Tomei wore her civic Simone Leigh and Chitra Ganesh. The pride on her neck. table designed by the artist Liz Magic Just below the collar of her black and Laser, which featured performers who (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] white embroidered Preen dress hung dispensed mead in cattle horns, proved a silver chain with a midsize charm especially popular. — MATTHEW LYNCH

w20a011a;7.indd 11 4/19/12 7:26 PM 04192012192736 CEO Summit 2012

Leading in a New World | May 14 - 16, Palm Beach Stephane de Bourgies

Desiree Rogers Marigay McKee Virginia C. Drosos Jean-Paul Agon Johnson Publishing Harrods Ltd. The Procter & Gamble L’Oréal Company LLC Company Inc.

John Demsey Chuck Rubin José Barra Jill Beraud The Estée Lauder Ulta Beauty Target Living Proof Inc. Companies Inc.

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WWDBeautySummit2012_HAD_WWDv16.indd 1 4/12/12 2:25 PM