Colour Cosmetics Growth Mexico’S Make-Up Sector Glossybox Page 6 UK and Germany Boom by 5% Page 38 Page 10 MARKETS

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cosmeticsbusiness.com Market report Special focus Profiles twitter.com/cb_beautynews Prestige brands drive global Economic instability slows Chantecaille Beauté page 3 November 2015 Year 32 issue11 colour cosmetics growth Mexico’s make-up sector Glossybox page 6 UK and Germany boom by 5% page 38 page 10 MARKETS

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Year32 issue 11 November 2015 THE COLOUR COSMETICS ISSUE

Cosmetics Business Markets Company profile Retail profile HPCi Media Limited Chantecaille Beauté 3-4 Glossybox 6-7 The Tanneries Natraj Building US luxury cosmetics brand The beauty box subscription 55 Bermondsey Street London SE1 3XG Chantecaille is an increasingly company is aiming to become www.cosmeticsbusiness.com global operation. How does it the most important source for tel +44 20 7193 6862 remain true to its roots? beauty discoveries worldwide fax +44 20 3318 5305 email [email protected]

Editor MARKET REPORT Jo Allen Summary 10-11 Reporter Report highlights, top 5 brands by country, usage data and key trends Rachel Lawler France 12-17 German Correspondent Prestige brands became the darling of the French make-up market once again as Annemarie Kruse w Italian Correspondent sales rose by 2%, stated NPD. Overall, the market remained stable at 864m Kathleen Armstrong Germany 17-22 Spanish Correspondent One of the fastest growing colour cosmetics markets covered in this report, Simeon Goldstein Germany grew by 5.5% in 2014 according to IKW, to a total of w1.52bn Sub-Editor Italy 22-26 Austyn King Colour cosmetics is one of Italy’s stronger C&T categories. Cosmetica Italia Art Editor w Sibylla Duffy reported a total value of 1.02bn in 2014, with facial make-up as the star performer Sales Director Spain 26-27 Adrian Goldfinch Results were looking rosy in Spain. Value sales grew by 2% to w384.4m, noted IRI Subscriptions UK 28-33 Julie Wilson The UK colour cosmetics market regained its glow in 2014-2015 as prestige make- Editorial Director up boomed. According to Kantar Worldpanel, total sales grew by 5.1% to £690.1m Erika Hatva Managing Director Russia 33-34 Colin Bailey-Wood Russia’s market rose by 4% to 65bn rubles, according to Euromonitor, as consumers increasingly bought into premium make-up brands Editorial Global round up 35-37 +44 1992 303 259 Coverage of the US, the world’s largest make-up market, plus Japan and China [email protected] Advertising +44 20 7193 6862 [email protected] Special focus Product spotlight Subscriptions Mexico 38-41 42 +44 20 7193 1279 Against a backdrop of financial Sales of primers continue to Each year Cosmetics Business [email protected] instability, how has Mexico’s flourish. These latest launches Markets publishes a market report on the following product categories: Subscriptions colour cosmetics market fared reveal why Cosmetics Business subscription over the past year? January Bathroom includes Cosmetics Business News products and Cosmetics Business Markets (plus subscriber access to February Facial skin care cosmeticsbusiness.com). Full details March Men’s lines on subscriptions can be found at April Sun care www.hpcimedia.com or email May Women’s [email protected] fragrances June Body care July Deodorants © HPCi Media Limited The paper used in this magazine is August Hair care obtained from manufacturers who operate September Aesthetics within internationally recognised standards. October Spa products The paper is sourced from sustainable, properly managed forestation. November Colour cosmetics Printed by ColourfastWorld Limited, London December Hands & nails

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CHANTECAILLE SHADES OF MEANING Chantecaille Beauté is a family-run company operating on a global scale. Rachel Lawler speaks to brand Founder Sylvie Chantecaille about how the company remains true to its roots

Chantecaille Beauté has always been a family- beautiful pieces all the time. I learned to run brand. But rather than taking a step back as appreciate fine art and the beauty of it at a young the brand gets bigger, the Chantecaille family age.” The attention to detail in each Chantecaille remains at the core of the business. Founder Beauté product is clear. From its famous palettes Sylvie Chantecaille is still at the head of the US- to its bestselling lip glosses – everything is based company, while her husband Olivier serves designed with care. as Chief Financial Officer. The couple’s three children Olivia, Alex and Phillipe act as Creative Budding developments Director, Vice President of Sales and Promotions Art aside, Chantecaille’s next biggest inspiration and Director of Media Productions respectively. for the cosmetics range was flowers. “My mother With products stocked worldwide in premium had a rose garden and I had fresh roses in my retail stores such as Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys, room every week,” she says. Her love of flowers, Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, Harrods, Harvey and particularly roses, is clearly manifested in the Nichols and Space NK, it’s a far cry from a brand. All Chantecaille skin care products make kitchen table top affair. Yet that hasn’t stopped this use of Rose de Mai. Pure Rosewater was the first brand from remaining true to its heart. “I’m so skin care product launched by the brand and proud of all our products,” says Sylvie remains one of its key ingredients, listed in every Chantecaille. Her company produces a select but product from mascara to lipstick. meticulously developed range of cosmetics, The brand initially launched as a fragrance fragrance and skin care products. Her dream of company but soon expanded into skin care and creating a “well-researched” range that meets the cosmetics. “Within a year and a half, I realised “needs and wants of modern women” is still very that my passion for great skin care, natural much key to Chantecaille Beauté. products, Chinese medicine and aromatherapy Chantecaille has enjoyed a long career in was bursting to be created into a line of beauty,” cosmetics. In 1979 she created Prescriptives at Chantecaille says. The brand’s first cosmetics Estée Lauder. Lauder had been impressed by the product was Future Skin – an oil-free foundation line of products Chantecaille had previously with a uniquely lightweight formula. A translucent created with her then business partner, Diane von compact and tinted moisturiser followed Furstenberg. The pair had sold a popular line of shortly afterwards. colour cosmetics in the US and were approached Future Skin was a stand-out product at the time, by Lauder shortly after its launch. giving users a more natural look compared to Prescriptives was the first make-up brand to traditional foundation formulas. Its formula is offer custom-blended make-up to consumers. buildable for medium to full coverage and Chantecaille helped to make the first foundation includes light-reflecting pigments to give the colour wheel. The launch introduced the idea of “glow” Chantecaille’s former colleague Estée Sylvie Chantecaille cool and warm skin tones to the market and Lauder was always looking to create. The formula founded the brand in demonstrated a clear move away from traditional transfers water onto the skin, treating any dryness 1997. Its oil-free marketing with its scientific claims and while still being suitable for oily complexions. foundation, Future Skin, informative advertising. The product continues to be a favourite with remains one of the Chantecaille Beauté was created in 1997 when consumers today. brand’s hero products Chantecaille left Prescriptives. She says: “I wanted Chantecaille Beauté products are now available to create a company that focused on the most in 11 countries worldwide. The brand’s top luxurious products sourced with the purest, most markets include the US, Australia, the UK and natural ingredients.” Much like Prescriptives, Chantecaille also wanted the brand to inform its Fact file: Chantecaille customers about skin care. She adds: “Above all, it had to be scientifically advanced and support Founded 1997 women’s health.” Address 584 Broadway, New York, 10012-3229, US Chantecaille’s personal experiences are etched Website chantecaille.com into each and every product. She says: “As a young Contact telephone +1 212 343 3614 girl I was constantly surrounded by art and beauty. My family collected art and I was exposed to

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Asia. At the start of this year, Chantecaille Beauté I wanted to create a company launched in the UAE – the brand’s range is now that focused on the most luxurious“ stocked in Dubai’s Bloomingdale’s. “ The brand is also currently expanding in Asia. products sourced with the purest, “I am very excited about the design of our new most natural ingredients free standing store in Hong Kong,” Chantecaille Sylvie Chantecaille, Founder, Chantecaille says. The store is due to open in Causeway in January 2016. She adds: “We are designing it with Patrick Naggar and it will be a blend of Paris and New York. There will be a very chic Parisian Chantecaille says: “Our customers are very sitting room, separate luxurious spa rooms and intelligent women with the power to make a a gallery of videos raising awareness for difference. We strengthen our commitment to various causes.” causes each season with the launch of limited Like all premium brands, Chantecaille Beauté is edition philanthropic palettes that raise awareness careful about online sales. “The personal touch for issues that need immediate attention.” The that is experienced at the beauty counter can’t be brand has also recently supported The Xerces replaced,” says Chantecaille. But she admits that Society for Invertebrate Conservation through its “the relationship with the consumer is always Save the Bees Palette. Chantecaille also changing”. E-commerce is of growing importance encouraged its customers to help the cause in to consumers, and the brand is ready to meet their practical ways such as by planting wildflower seeds needs. “Consumers are shopping when and where and buying local honey. it is convenient for them. We want to be in all of The brand is fully committed to its causes, not those places – whether it’s online or in-store,” testing its products or ingredients on animals. Chantecaille says. Many of its products are vegan and all are free A unique selection of products are available from synthetic colours and fragrances. exclusively through their site, such as the Hi-Def Ultimately, this is where the brand’s focus lies: Summer Bronzer bundle, which includes the HD formulations. Chantecaille says: “This is really Perfecting Powder in Bronze and a Face Brush. how it all began: with the desire to make The product was launched earlier this year in the products that were great for women, healthy and summer. It uses the same formula as its popular technically very advanced.” Perfecting Powder in a new shade, tapping into It is also where Chantecaille Beauté truly differs the trend for contouring and bronzing. from other cosmetics brands. The company uses Chantecaille’s daughter, Olivia, acts as Creative beauty to share its message with the world, a Director for the brand and manages the company’s legacy that will eventually be passed from one online presence. Chantecaille says: “It’s important generation to the next. Looking ahead, for us to have an online persona and to engage Chantecaille says: “You will have to stay tuned – with our followers. We like to give them access to we have a robust line-up of exciting launches and what inspires us, snippets from behind the scenes plans on the horizon.” and sneak peaks at new launches.” The policy seems to be working as the brand has amassed 18,300 Instagram followers. Chantecaille Beauté also uses its social platform to share its philanthropic messages. On Instagram, it describes itself as “using beauty to change the world”. The brand regularly posts updates on causes it supports, such as climate change and the ivory trade, alongside traditional beauty posts. “Social media allows us to raise awareness for causes that are important to us,” Chantecaille says. She adds: “We feel this creates a sense of intimacy with our followers.”

Cause-metic creations Philanthropy is key for the brand. It supports a number of causes through limited edition “cause- metics” products. The most recent of these is Protect the Wolves. This campaign aims to raise money and awareness for Conservation Northwest, an organisation working to increase wolf populations in regions of the Pacific Northwest. The charity works with farmers to keep conflict with livestock to a minimum and has Chantecaille combines lobbied for the welfare of wolves. Chantecaille technically advanced Beauté has created two limited edition products – formulations with a an eyeshadow trio and a cheek shade, each strong commitment to featuring a wolf design – for Autumn 2015, with raising awareness for 5% of the proceeds donated to the charity. the causes it supports

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NOVEMBER 2015 VOL 88 NO 11

APRIL 2015 VOL 88 NO 4

AUGUST 2015 VOL 88 NO 8

JANUARY 2014 VOL 88 NO 1

MAY 2015 VOL 88 NO 5

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Subscription commerce is a comparatively new but rapidly growing business model. The GLOSSYBOX concept behind it is simple: customers sign up for a subscription plan and receive regular parcels containing a curated selection of products from a A JOURNEY OF certain category – food, beverages or confectionery, pet products, toys or flowers or, as DISCOVERY one of the most popular product categories in subscription commerce: cosmetics. The biggest beauty box subscription company Glossybox is one of the world’s in Germany – and one of the best-known beauty leading beauty box subscription subscription companies internationally – is services. Founder and CEO Charles Glossybox. The Berlin-based internet start-up von Abercron tells Annemarie began operations in March 2011 and Glossybox’s Kruse how the company is planning retail concept, which was modeled after US beauty subscription service Birchbox, rapidly became for an even shinier future successful in Germany and Europe. After its initial surge of success, Glossybox company ships more than 200,000 boxes per followed the lead of many internet start-ups and month across its ten markets. “In general we are expanded quickly – too quickly, as it turned out. In more than satisfied with Glossybox’s international 2013, after group turnover started to crumble, the presence,” says von Abercron. “We are profitable owners decided to reorganise their company. in every single one of our international markets.” Glossybox scaled back its international activities, The company is also planning to add more exited around half of its foreign markets, and markets to Glossybox’s international presence began to focus on its core business in Western once again, with von Abercron stating: “There are Europe and the US. no geographic borders for us – after all, in each And the new austerity regimen has been paying country there are women and therefore potential off. Although Glossybox doesn’t give out detailed Glossybox customers.” However, Glossybox is not figures, the company told Cosmetics Business ready to make the leap just yet: “First we need to News earlier this year that its 2014 profits topped achieve an optimum performance in our core t1m; with a customer base increase of 25% and markets. We are already close to that goal but still, customer satisfaction – a very important factor in our international plans can wait just a little subscription commerce – reaching 95% by the longer,” explains von Abercron. “We are end of 2014. At the same time the so-called churn constantly working to make Glossybox an even rate (the percentage rate at which customers stop more exciting beauty experience. Perfection is no subscribing to a service) dropped to 8%. “At wishful dream for us but a goal which is already Glossybox we like to surprise our customers with pretty close. As soon as we have reached that goal, luxurious products and new international trends” we will continue with our international expansion. Charles von Abercron, Founder and CEO of And I’m not excluding the Asian markets.” Glossybox tells Cosmetics Business Markets. “We are much more than just a subscription box. Getting personal Glossybox is a beauty experience which we Glossybox’s brand selection and subscription plans constantly expand by integrating customer vary according to the regional market. In some feedback and fine-tuning our algorithms. countries – including Germany – the company We listen to our clients and do our best to keep also offers a teen-oriented Young Beauty box and a them happy.” Glossybox’s headquarters remain in Berlin and the company uses the German market to test most of its innovations before they are rolled out to the international markets. Besides its home market, Glossybox operates in nine further international countries. As of mid-2015, there are Glossybox presences in Austria, France, Switzerland, Sweden, Norway, the UK, Ireland, the US and Canada. The company also has subsidiaries in Stockholm, Paris, London and New York. In total, the

Fact file: Glossybox Founded March 2011 Glossybox CEO Charles Address Beauty Trend Holding, Rungestr. 22-24, von Abercron is 10179 Berlin, Germany focusing on achieving Contact telephone +49 30 770 19 1616 optimum performance in the firm’s core markets Website glossybox.com before furthering its international expansion

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Glossybox says that to date, it has partnered with almost 700 cosmetics labels. Many of these brands belong to leading multinationals like L’Oréal, P&G, Henkel or Unilever. However, although the company has a global sourcing team, Glossybox works with local beauty brands in each market and this is what makes the regional boxes so interesting. In addition, the beauty brands come from different price categories and include mass market, luxury products and niche labels and, in some countries, proprietary beauty brands. Each month the boxes feature a different theme. Some special editions, like July 2015’s Vive la France edition or May 2015’s Mother’s Day box, were sold in several markets at the same time. However, in general special trend scouts in each country will determine the market’s individual box themes, bearing in mind local and cultural preferences. In some countries, Glossybox also has special limited edition boxes: the Exclusive Editions are one-off boxes filled with the products of a specific brand partner or retailer. Glossybox UK, for example, has in the past curated boxes together with spa brand Espa, body care brand Roger & Gallet (L’Oréal), luxury brand Darphin (Estée Lauder), department store Harvey Nichols and online designer fashion site Net-A- Porter. In the US, one of Glossybox’s most popular limited editions was with super-luxe brand La Prairie (Beiersdorf). The Exclusive Editions, at a fixed price, are only available online to registered subscribers and tend to sell out very quickly. The concept has been so successful that Glossybox is now introducing the Exclusive Editions in its home market: in late We focus on Men’s Box. When customers sign up for a 2015, Glossybox will introduce its first limited quality and Glossybox account they are invited to fill in a edition box in cooperation with mineral make-up “ beauty profile. Starting with an initial set of 15 brand bareMinerals. customer questions about skin type, hair colour and satisfaction and personal preferences, the company then begins to Future discoveries this is also how we customise the next box that is dispatched to this It’s not surprising that Glossybox’s business is particular customer. Each box is accompanied by a going well. The advantages of the subscription are going to reach questionnaire tailored to the individual box’s commerce model are obvious: manufacturers can our main goal: product mix. introduce new brands or products to a pre-selected

to become the Based on this information, the company will audience with minimal divergence loss. They also

most important further individualise the contents of the boxes that get direct and detailed customer feedback for “ are sent out. In the German market Glossybox individual products. Jaded consumers, on the other source for beauty sometimes sends out up to 40 different boxes per hand, can look forward to a hand-picked surprise discoveries month. This personalisation is a crucial aspect of product selection each month. worldwide the company’s corporate strategy. The subscription commerce market is booming Charles von Abercron, These customer preferences are not just at the moment and in Germany alone, many Founder and CEO, important market research information for the competitors have appeared on the market. Glossybox beauty brands partnering with Glossybox, it also However, Glossybox continues to maintain its cuts down on the rate of product returns: strong market position thanks to its ongoing Glossybox says that it has one of the lowest return personalisation of the boxes and interesting box rates in the entire German e-commerce market. themes. “We focus on quality and customer The product boxes typically contain five satisfaction,” says von Abercron, “and this is also products from different beauty brands which are how we are going to reach our main goal: to usually selected according to a specific theme. become the most important source for beauty Around 80% of the Glossyboxes that are sent out discoveries worldwide. are stocked with full size products and will always “This also means that in future Glossybox will combine well-known brands with lesser known position itself more strongly with relevant content labels. Occasionally, there will an additional non- and that we will continue to expand and optimise beauty gift to keep things interesting. Each box our brand portfolio. We are already one of the also includes brand information leaflets and biggest companies in the industry and we will application instructions. continue to build on that.”

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stated Cosmetica Italia, thanks to a blemish-free COLOUR performance from foundations – up 2.3% to t214.3m. Eye make-up also managed a minor rise COSMETICS of 0.9% to t352.4m as mascaras, eyeliners and pencils fared well this year. MARKET SUMMARY The $56.9bn global colour cosmetics market sparkled in Spain The Spanish make-up market appears to 2014, increasing by 5.9% overall. Strong have remained immune to the economic travails innovations from premium brands made of recent years, reporting sales growth of 14% the prestige make-up market shine between 2006 and 2013, according to a report from the EAE Business School. Growth brightest, while the UK, Germany and continued into 2015, with IRI Spain figures China were among the star performers showing a 2% rise in value to t384.4m overall, and an impressive 5% volume growth to 49m France The prestige channel proved itself to be units, supported by significant new product the glittering star of the French colour cosmetics development from local and international brands. market, regaining its glow after several years to grow by 2% to t405.2m, for the year ended June UK The UK colour cosmetics market got its glow 2015 according to The NPD Group. The mass back in 2014-2015, as it waved off a dismal set of market also remained stable, up 0.2% to t395.52m results from the previous year. Kantar Worldpanel while volumes increased by 4.4% to 41.45m units, reported growth of 5.1% both in value and noted IRI France. Overall the eye, lip and face volume terms, propelling it to one of the country’s make-up market was worth t864m, stated FEBEA. best performing C&T markets. Technique-based make-up trends such as contouring and strobing SPECIAL Germany The German colour cosmetics market contributed to a rise in sales of face make-up, the FOCUS shone even brighter in 2014 as turnover grew by a strongest category with 6.1% value growth. The MEXICO’S COLOUR dynamic 5.5% to t1.52bn, according to IKW. The market was also boosted by an especially strong COSMETICS MARKET TURN TO PAGE 38 eye, face and lip categories posted impressive performance from prestige brands. increases of 3.3%, 4.5% and 6% respectively according to IRI Germany, with sales of classic lip Russia Another dynamic performance was seen colour and lip pencils being particularly strong. in Russia, which grew by 4% to 65bn rubles Eyebrow and contouring products were among the (US$1.03bn), according to Euromonitor strongest make-up trends. International. However, the growth rate was lower in recent years. This is due to the market reaching Italy Many C&T categories in Italy have endured near saturation, as well as a slowdown in the a tough past year, but the t1.2bn colour cosmetics economy and fewer mass market launches. market is not one of them. Happily, sales of facial However, although consumers are making fewer make-up nudged up by 1.1% in 2014 to t394.2m, purchases they are increasingly buying into prestige

Europe: Top 5 colour cosmetics brands by country

Total top 5 UK Germany Russia Maybelline Boots Maybelline Avon Avon Rimmel Manhattan Oriflame L’Oréal Maybelline Essence Max Factor Yves Rocher Avon L’Oréal Maybelline Max Factor Max Factor Yves Rocher Yves Rocher

Spain France Italy Deliplus Yves Rocher Kiko Astor Gemey Pupa Margaret Astor L’Oréal Deborah Max Factor Bourjois Bottega Verde Maybelline Sephora Rimmel

Source: Kantar Worldpanel personal care usage panel. Rankings refer to weighted penetration (% using) among women using colour cosmetics products over the 12 months ended June 2015. For more information contact Benjy Daaku ([email protected]) or the Kantar Worldpanel team at Camargue ([email protected])

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Trend watch: ‘Strobing’ magnifies sales of highlighters If 2014 was the year of contouring, 2015 is all about strobing – a make-up technique that uses highlighters to create an accentuated, illuminated complexion. Inspired by selfie-takers’ desire for a photo-ready finish, the trend has directly fuelled a spike in sales of highlighters in the UK prestige market. The NPD Group states that highlighter and illuminator sales grew by 48.5% between January to August 2015 to total £8m compared to £5.5m for the same period in 2014. June Jensen, Director of UK Beauty for The NPD Group explains: “Highlighters have witnessed an incredible amount of growth in the past year driven solely by the new trend for strobing. This has been a huge topic on social media, on beauty blogs and in the mainstream press. Brands have capitalised on this with new launches and focusing marketing on existing lines to drive sales in store and online.” For UK women, enhancing their facial features is the most important reason for using make-up, colour cosmetics. The channel grew by 9% in 2014, according to Kantar Worldpanel’s research compared to 3% for mass market make-up. (below), a factor which helps to explain why the strobing trend has been such a hit with Global round up Worth $12.3bn, the US is the consumers in the country. However, Mathilde world’s largest colour cosmetics market. Value Lion, Beauty Europe Industry Expert at The NPD growth was limited to 1% overall, notes Group, tells Cosmetics Business Markets: “Strobing is a trend that is everywhere right now Euromonitor, although the prestige market grew by and we have seen many launches in this a glossy 6%. The second largest market, Japan was category in Europe.” also boosted by stronger sales of premium In France, for example, sales of prestige cosmetics, up 2% in total to ¥613bn ($5.06bn). highlighting products and primers have grown However, China was the most successful of the by 41% in the year to June 2015, with successful three, rocketing up by 9% to RMB21bn ($3.3bn) as products including Chanel’s Le Blanc Base Korean Wave mania generated robust growth in Embellisseur de Teint. many make-up categories.

Colour cosmetics: European usage facts Each month, Cosmetics Business Markets and Kantar Worldpanel present exclusive research into a product category. This month we look at colour cosmetics Q2 How loyal are women to make-up Q1 Why do women use make-up? brands? Most European women say they apply make-up to Brand loyalty is the most important factor when make them look more beautiful, but British women use purchasing make-up, especially in Germany and it to enhance their features. Great Britain. Value is more important in Spain and Russia, where quality is a key purchase influencer 68 53 66 50 46 46 55 43 42 41 41 50 38 47 43 32 31 32 38 27 28 26 25 23 23 23 22 22 22 21 22 If you have any 23 questions on European C&T, email CBM ([email protected]) or Maya Zawislak at Kantar Worldpanel Total W. France Germany Italy Spain GB Russia Poland Total W. France Germany Italy Spain GB Russia Poland Europe Europe (maya.zawislak@kantar worldpanel.com) Make me more beautiful Give more colour/emphasis I always buy/use this brand A quality brand I like Enhance features Give a natural look Good value

Usage Occasions (000) Vert %. Usage – Female – June 2015

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France: Colour cosmetics, total sales, 2014 France w m %+/- Total* 973 0.2 From low Eye make-up 318 0.4 Lip make-up 148 -0.01 to glow Foundation 375 1.7 *Includes nail make-up. Total excluding nails is 4864m. Source: FEBEA

IRI France figures show that although the mass market eye make-up segment dipped by 0.4% to t191.53m, the biggest sub-category, Blue may have been the dominant shade for mascara, managed to brush up by 0.7% to eyes at Paris Fashion Week SS16 but the French t116.43m, while the largest increase was in colour cosmetics market is back in the black eyebrow pencils, once again, which drew fresh once again as strong launches from brands gains of 81.3% to t7.39m as the trend for performed well and helped to return the market strong and defined brows continued. to growth. Mathilde Lion, Beauty Europe Concealers helped the mass face make-up Industry Expert at The NPD Group tells segment to hide a multitude of blemishes, being Cosmetics Business Markets: “In France we the only sub-category to post a positive have certainly had bad years with the crisis. Total make-up has been flat over the past two years, so this year with its strong breakthrough France: Colour cosmetics, % share and value growth by innovations we have really seen the difference. channel, 2014 The market is becoming positive again.” Mass market Selective market The prestige channel, which accounts for 43% % share of %+/- % share of %+/- of total make-up sales in France according to the total market total market Fédération des Entreprises de la Beauté (FEBEA), Total make-up* 50 0 43 -0.1 has proved itself to be the glittering star of the colour cosmetics market during the 2014-2015 Eye make-up 60 0.8 36 -2.1 period. NPD figures state that the eye, lip and Lip make-up 33 -1.5 62 0.01 face make-up categories grew by 2% overall to Foundation 40.8 2.7 47.9 0.8 t 405.2m during the year ended June 2015. *Includes nails. Source: FEBEA But the mass market (which takes a 50% share of the total) also remained stable, up 0.2% to t 395.52m for the year ended October 2015 France: Colour cosmetics, mass market sales, 2014-2015* according to IRI France. And in volume terms a wm %+/- Units m %+/- much more radiant development saw units rise by 4.4% to 41.45m, indicating that overall the Total 395.52 0.2 41.45 4.4 French make-up market is sitting pretty once Lip make-up 53.27 8.1 6.04 15.4 again. The parapharmacy and pharmacy channel Lipstick 42.21 2.4 4.43 7.5 has also continued to progress, says FEBEA, but it remains still very minimal in make-up. The Lip gloss 9.64 43.4 1.34 54.6 total French colour cosmetics market, excluding Lip liner 1.42 5.9 0.27 9.1 t nail make-up, was worth 864m in 2014. Face make-up 150.73 -1.6 13.81 1.1 Foundation 103.71 -3.8 9.06 -1.4 Raising a smile Looking at the mass market in more detail, IRI Face powder 29.36 -2.1 2.81 0.2 data shows that lip make-up posted a particularly Concealer 10.62 34.5 1.20 32.6 glossy performance over the past year, rising by Blusher 7.03 -5.2 0.74 -3.2 8.1% to t53.27m in value terms and by 15.4% to 6.04m units. Lipstick, the biggest category, Eye make-up 191.53 -0.4 21.61 3.9 grew by 2.4% to t42.21m, and lip liner also Mascara 116.43 0.7 12.01 7.2 fared well, up 5.9% to t1.42m, but it was lip Eyeliner 29.99 -1.8 3.24 0.9 gloss that experienced the strongest growth, Eyeshadow 17.39 -5.4 1.98 0.6 rocketing by 43.4% tot9.64m. Speaking to Cosmetics Business Markets, Brian Feinman, Kohl 11.91 -20.1 2.13 -14.9 International Marketing and Communication Other contour pencils 8.39 -5.0 1.37 -0.6 Director of Biguine Makeup (Jean-Claude Eyebrow pencil 7.39 81.3 0.87 64.1 Biguine Paris), says: “Lips are very important Eye pencils 0.03 8.9 0.003 3.6 and lipsticks and glosses have the biggest increase in sales: whether dabbing, glossy or full *Sales through hypermarkets, supermarkets, hard discount outlets and online. 52 w/e 30 October 2015. Totals may not equal sector values due to rounding. coverage products, all types of lipstick and Source: IRI France glosses are doing well.”

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Even if performance and booming by 34.5% to t competition 10.62m. Overall, however, face make-up “ declined by 1.6% to t150.73m, mostly due to Launch highlight: grows I think the 3.8% slide in foundation sales to t103.71m. Dior Addict lipstick prestige make-up In the prestige market, concealers had a Dior Addict Lipstick first launched flawless year too, and unlike in the mass market, back in 2001, and in 2015 it has been is quite secure as revamped with an exclusive

this was reflected in the results for the overall innovation which is used for the first

it can provide face make-up segment. According to The NPD breakthrough t time in this range. The updated “ Group, face make-up grew by 4% to 183.2m in lipstick range features an integrated innovations and the year to June 2015, as foundation sales rose hydra-gel core, a soft core which is benefits for the by 6% and concealers increased by 7%. Lip infused throughout the stick and make-up also inched up 1% to t95.6m, with lip formed of 40% oils to give an ultra- consumer colour posting a brighter performance, up 3%, shiny and moisturising gel effect. Mathilde Lion, Beauty while unlike in the mass market, lipgloss The result is a lip gloss within a more Europe Industry Expert, declined by 8%. The eye make-up segment traditional lipstick outer layer – a feat The NPD Group declined by 2% due to a decrease in eyeshadows which the brand calls and eyeliners; however, mascaras grew 3% due “revolutionary”. Available in 35 shades, encased in a slimmer and to some successful launches. sleeker case design with magnetic However, the most interesting segment in closure, the launch is spearheaded prestige was what The NPD Group describes as by a major campaign featuring “all other colour”, meaning products including actress Jennifer Lawrence. highlighters for all different parts of the face, and primers. This segment rocketed by 41% as key feature-enhancing and illuminating Another major foundation launch which trends, such as contouring and strobing, took off helped to grow the prestige face make-up sector in France. over the past year was Le Teint Encre de Peau from YSL Beauté (L’Oréal). Launched in Face value summer 2014, the light foundation gives very In fact, the increase experienced by prestige face natural looking results while offering matte make-up was a rather impressive return to coverage that lasts up to 24 hours. The formula growth – the category had fallen 3% during the is both lipophilic and hydrophilic, helping to previous year. Lion explains: “Face make-up had absorb both oil and sweat. been very low on innovation during the last two Meanwhile, Lancôme (L’Oréal) took years – below what we had expected – yet since inspiration from the Kbeauty cushion compact September 2014 we have seen a lot of focus on craze to create Miracle Cushion Cream foundations and many strong concealers from Foundation. The liquid foundation, which is the big players that has grown the market. So encapsulated in a compact with a puff cushion, is the growth is linked to innovation.” designed to be patted gently onto the face for a Dior’s (LVMH) Diorskin Star Fluid Foundation quick and easy application, offering a buildable was the best launch in the last 12 months, adds yet weightless coverage, lasting foundation and a Lion, while the brand has also gone on to launch fresh glow. further foundations this year. One of these is Innovation has been strong in both formats Diorskin Nude Air Sérum de Teint, the brand’s and formulations in the prestige market, but the first serum foundation within the new Nude Air mass market has also produced some similarly range that focuses on comfort, lightness and a impressive new foundations. L’Oréal Paris protective formula that helps to treat the skin. The introduced Accord Parfait Genius 4-in-1, a range, which also includes a Loose Powder and compact which combines foundation, concealer, Compact and a Bronzing Powder, incorporates primer and powder in one, designed to be a 4% Oxygen Activ technology, a combination of plant simplified foundation choice to appeal to women Value growth of oils, vitamins and minerals and hyper-oxygenated with busy lives – a similar proposition to prestige face make-up market in France cranberry oil which provide the skin with Lancôme’s Miracle Cushion. The product, Source: The NPD Group antioxidants to help produce a glow. Soft focus which launched in September this year, is said to agents combined with glazed pigments help to conceal blemishes and create an even appearance. France: Colour cosmetics, prestige sales, 2014-2015* France: Colour cosmetics, bestselling prestige launches wm %+/- by category, 2014-2015 Total 405.2 2.0 Category Best launch Eye make-up 114.3 -2.0 Total colour Lancôme Grandiose Mascara Face make-up 183.2 4.0 Lip make-up Chanel Rouge Coco Lip make-up 95.6 1.0 Face make-up Dior Diorskin Star Fluid Foundation Gift sets 9.5 -4.0 Other face make-up Chanel Le Blanc Base Embellisseur de teint (primer) All other colour 2.6 41.0 Other colour Dior Deluxe Palette Maquillage Christmas 2014 *Sales through selective channels, July 2014 to June 2015. *July 2014 to June 2015. Source The NPD Group Source The NPD Group

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combine a cream base with mineral pigments, a Contouring took off velvet finish powder and a liquid-like foundation in France last year that blends into the skin. Commenting on the with both brands and trend for “smart” cosmetics, Karim Rahman, own label ranges L’Oréal Paris Global Make-Up Designer, says: launching products dedicated to achieving “The new generation of make-up combines a sculpted look professional perfection with simplicity of use.” Like Lancôme, Nocibé has been drawn to the virtues of cushion compacts, launching Heaven Foundation within its own brand range. Claimed to combine the freshness and brightness of a liquid foundation with the practicality of a compact, the complexion is left looking flawless with a nude make-up effect. Coty-owned Bourjois has also focused on achieving a nude, non-masking effect with its latest foundation, Air Mat. Offering a long lasting matte formula without heaviness, the formula contains coated pigments and evanescent, non-greasy oils that bind the pigments to the skin to create a foundation that can last for 24 hours. Nocibé A defining trend Throughout Europe and the US the colour cosmetics market has been fortunate enough to have been boosted by some strong make-up lines, while the complexion is transparent, trends over the past year. Contouring – a trick created with products such as Biguine Makeup used by make-up artists for years that uses BB Teint compact powder/foundation. different shades to define features and create the The contouring, and more recently strobing, appearance of higher cheekbones and a slimmer trends, however, point to a wider influence in nose and chin –was brought to the fore the consumer make-up market, notes Lion: predominantly by American celebrity Kim “There have been strong trends around Kardashian. The technique, which is often said professionalism and there is a new generation of to even be an alternative to surgery, has inspired products that play with new trends, dedicated to several French brands to launch dedicated blurring imperfections and creating a glow to contouring products. Gemey-Maybelline the skin.” Lion believes that hybrid skin care and (L’Oréal), for example, introduced Master Sculpt make-up products are where premium cosmetics Duo Poudre Contouring, a pressed powder with find their point of difference in this market: two shades to accentuate and highlight the “Prestige is a key asset in these strong trends and features. The product is available in includes skin care benefits such as anti-ageing, light/medium and medium/dark shades to suit pollution and innovative ingredients that give different skin tones. them a strong advantage.” Nocibé also introduced a range of contouring Indeed, in a recent announcement from products in its own label professional make-up Giorgio Armani Beauty (L’Oréal) following the line, Artist by Nocibé. The products include debut of the Giorgio Armani SS16 womenswear Duo Perfection – Enlumineur et Correcteur, a collection, the brand stated that in March 2016 concealer and illuminator duo which features a it will launch a range dedicated to maintaining a rollerball applicator for the concealer to help flawless complexion with long term shine, avoid an overloaded effect, and a fiber-tip brush including a hybrid make-up and skin care for the fluid illuminator, which is released by a product called Armani button, and formulated with micro-pearls to Prima Glow-On highlight the bridge of the nose and the tops of Moisturising Balm which the cheekbones. Other products include gives skin a radiant glow. Extruded Wonder Bronzer and two contouring brushes. The products have been a success for Onwards and upwards Nocibé (see Retail watch). A survey by Kantar Another trend, which is quite new to France, Worldpanel showed that is strobing, which Feinman describes as 64% of French women wear “creating highlights and illuminating the face make-up at least once a with a natural dewy healthy glowing look”. The week. Mascara is worn by trend is a further step in the nude make-up look, 48% of users, while four in which Feinman says is created with eye colours ten wear eyeliner and three such as Biguine Makeup’s Rosewood, Brick, in ten wear eyeshadow. Peach and Reddish brown shades, lipstick or lip Mascara represents the gloss that is dabbed on the lips generously with largest product segment in the fingers, sometimes going further than the lip the eye make-up market and

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it has fared particularly well in the prestige Meanwhile Kiko has just launched three new sector over the past year, while the mass market styling products for eyebrows: Eyebrow Filler has also managed to remain in positive growth. Light Touch Pencil, Eyebrow Sculpt Automatic And there have been plenty of eye-catching Pencil and Eyebrow Fibers Coloured Mascara, innovations to excite consumers. MAC (Estée as well as a range of eyebrow pencils for Lauder), for example, introduced Upward Lash, accentuating the shape of the brows. The retail which is designed to bring lashes to new heights, brand has enjoyed staggering success in France creating more volume, length and curl thanks to with its low cost yet covetable beauty products the mini shape of the moulded brush, which can and has opened over 120 stores since it arrived reach the base of the smallest lashes. The brush in the country four years ago, with each store has a hollow centre that stores the mascara so reportedy turning over t2m a year. that it can be loaded onto the lashes. In the selective market, Estée Lauder brands And Yves Rocher introduced a unique have boosted their brow line-up with Smashbox innovation that enables the wearer to make up introducing two new products in its Brow Tech both eyelashes and eyelids with one tool. Neo- line: Matte Pencil Crayon Sourcils, an ultra-thin Smoky Mascara is a 2-in-1 wand that features a matte pencil for creating precise lines, and mascara brush and a liner at the tip to apply the Highlight Stick Sourcils, an illuminator pencil formula to the eyelid to create the smoky look in that creates a multidimensional effect with a one simple step. The formula is enriched with satin finish. And Estée Lauder’s new Brow Now Botanical Charcoal, which is said to produce a Crayon à Sourcils Définition is a unique gel- blacker effect than traditional pigments. pencil which gives a natural or sophisticated “Volume that is 11 times more breathtaking” result which lasts for up to 12 hours. is the claim for Bourjois’ latest mascara range, Beyond eyebrow and mascara products, eye- Volume Glamour Effet Push Up. The three make-up has been in decline both in the mass mascaras in the range are designed to create and prestige markets over the past year, but with intense volume: the Ultra Black Edition is enriched with black pigments for a vibrant and intense black, lasting up to 16 hours; Fabulous Brown offers a soft and velvety look for light Bourjois Lash Machine lashes, again lasting up to 16 hours, and Black acts as an undercoat for Waterproof stays in place for 24 hours. The mascara, producing brand innovated further with an unusual product lashes that are 15% called Lash Machine, a lash booster that is thicker and longer applied after the usual mascara, coating the lashes with little white fibres before a second coat of mascara is then applied on top. The resulting appearance, says Bourjois, is that lashes that are thickened and lengthened by 15%. Trend watch: Eyes in focus Other mascara launches have been inspired by From strong brows to graphic liner, eyes have the autumn 2015 runways, where models at been a major make-up focus over the past couple Prada, Gucci and many other designer shows of years. Brian Feinman, International Marketing sported spidery, disorganised lashes. and Communication Director of Biguine Makeup Maybelline’s latest mascara, Le Colossal Go tells Cosmetics Business Markets how eye Chaotic, enables consumers to create this look make-up trends have developed in 2015 with a thicker formula that produces the clumpy and unstructured look. The angled brush helps “Eye make-up is very important and has (in the to send the lashes into multiple directions while mass channel) increased in market share and the formula contains a new polymer to produce sales in France. Strong, dense, velvety looking a more intense look. eyebrows are in, as are thick, ‘butterfly’ or ‘XXL’ eyelashes with lots of mascara. Eyeliner (either in felt tip, brush, kohl or creamy Brow boost pencil formats) is stroked with thick graphic lines The strongest growth, in the eye make-up that create a ‘new romantic’ look and has been segment, however, continues to be eyebrow inspired by British music groups of the 1980s as products. Lion comments that in the prestige well as Amy Winehouse’s look with her banana channel, “the eyebrow market is still growing in eyeliner. The trend is also inspired by the Eye of France. It is still a very small market but with Horus, an ancient Egyptian symbol. The eyeliner the professionalisation of the market, these may be so thick that it extends up on to the eyelid. products are appreciated by consumers.” And a Eyelids may have colour block strokes on them, in number of savvy brands have launched dedicated bright blue, prune, khaki or brown, but mainly it is in black. eyebrow products over the past year, including The eyes have become so important in colour Nocibé which introduced Artist by Nocibé Mega cosmetics that at our main house of beauty, Jean- Jumbo Eyebrow, a chunky pencil which offers a Claude Biguine International in Paris, we have convenient way to draw a line in a single step; launched Biguine Eyes, offering services for eye Brow Stylo, a 2-in-1 pencil and brush; and Le lashes and eyebrows such as semi-permanent Pinceau Sourcils Multi-Embouts, a multi- mascara, lash extensions, semi-permanent purpose tool that helps to define the eyebrows make-up for eyebrows and eyeliners.” with precision.

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bold, graphic eyes being a big trend this season, cosmetic use to help revive the Asháninka Breakthrough the segment might just make a return to glory. A culture in the Peruvian Amazon. innovations from new innovation from Gemey-Maybelline, Illuminating products are reaching the eyes premium brands Lasting Drama Gel 24H, is designed to make it too. A recent innovation from Dior proves to be such as Dior have easy to achieve the graphic eye look, combining its first illuminating palette to brighten the eyes, reinvigorated the prestige market the characteristics of an intense gel liner creating an instant, radiant effect. Eye Reviver formula with the practicality of a pencil, Palette incorporates Glow-Mimetics technology ensuring a smooth and silky glide on the eyelids which helps to create a youthful, awakened look with a rich, waterproof colour that remains in to the eyelids with a combination of neutral place for 24 hours. shades, primer and liner. Together they work to And Bourjois combines both eyeshadow and create wider-looking eyes with a smooth and liner in its new Colorband range, a selection of bright result. 2-in-1 crayons that offer easy application and intense, long lasting results. Available in six Pout like a pro shades from black to pink, the creamy textures 2015 was also a big year for lip make-up, as the can be used alone or blended with others and mass market kissed goodbye to shrinking sales offer 24-hour hold, avoiding settling into the and welcomed strong growth across the board, crease of the upper lid. particularly in gloss and liners, while the In eyeshadows, L’Oréal Paris introduced La prestige market continued to pout like a pro. Palette Smokey in September, offering ten new Lion says: “Chanel Rouge Coco was relaunched shades, while Clarins also introduced ten shades and is the best launch in the prestige market.” in warm and nude hues with satin and iridescent The classic range was given a new formula this textures, featuring plant and mineral extracts. year, with its new Hydra Boost complex that The palette was created by the brand as part of leaves lips feeling nourished and hydrated. It is an initiative to minimise its environmental also a formula that allows for buildable coverage impact – the materials have been carefully and the new collection features 28 new shades. selected and the packaging is reusable. The The latest launch from Bobbi Brown (Estée brand has also partnered with Pur Projet and Lauder), Luxe Lip Color, also incorporates committed to planting 7,000 trees for medical or skin care benefits, featuring nourishing ingredients for a comfortable and luxurious feel while also helping to visibly reduce the appearance of fine lip lines and relieve flaking. The 29 long wear shades are each housed in weighty gold packaging. In the mass market, Bourjois’ latest launch blends consumers’ favourite lip make-up formats: gloss and lipstick, in one innovation. But it stands out from other hybrid lipsticks by offering a light and smooth liquid texture that avoids leaving the lips feeling sticky. Aqua Laque offers a wet-look shine with the lasting power of a lipstick, combining a high concentration of water and Nymphea extract with the ability to

Retail watch: Nocibé French perfumery chain Nocibé, a subsidiary of You have responded to the contouring trend with a Douglas Holding, operates 635 stores and has a specific new Contouring Artist by Nocibé range. wide product offering, including luxury fragrance, How have these products been received? skin care and make-up, and an extensive own Contouring is a make-up technique and Nocibé could brand range. With 4000 employees, ten million not miss this trend even if this technique is primarily customers and over 12 million visitors to its for women who are more seasoned in terms of make- website, Nocibé has a turnover of w950m. Nocibé up. We launched a collection of dedicated limited speaks to Cosmetics Business Markets about its edition products in August within the Artist by Nocibé bestselling products and the benefits of offering range that has experienced real success. personalised advice to make-up customers What promotional activities and services do you Which make-up products have sold best at utilise to retail make-up products effectively? Nocibé in 2015? It is essential to offer customers both what they Nocibé today offers 1400 references within its expect and also all of the latest trends. Above all, it is Nocibé brand and the make-up range is a huge essential to provide expertise and to be able to success with our customers. Our palettes, advise customers. Advice remains the main point of mascaras and make-up removers are our contact with customers when selling make-up and bestsellers. Regarding selective brands, the Nocibé has introduced several specific make-up products that sell the most are lipsticks, mascaras training programs so that clients can benefit from and foundations. personalised and pointed advice.

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leave lips moisturised for ten hours. The Aqua strong eyebrows, contouring and strobing and Laque formulation is virtually butter and wax- the desire for make-up that gives a professional free to avoid disrupting the quality of the colour, result have certainly helped to stimulate product and there are eight shades, from fresh nudes development in this sector. Lion says: “Since the through to pinks, oranges and reds. new make-up trends, brands have been more Color Riche from L’Oréal Paris is one of the creative and they are attracting today’s biggest international players in the lipstick consumer.” This has also given the prestige segment and this year the brand introduced 20 make-up market not only a welcome boost after new shades, including Carmin Saint-Germain, a two quite disappointing years but confidence in red shade and a tribute to Parisiennes, Orange its future. “Even if competition grows, I think After Party and the unusual Préliminaire, a prestige make-up is quite secure as it can purple hue. provide breakthrough innovations and benefits Fresh innovation from colour cosmetics for the consumer,” says Lion. It seems that not brands has made a huge impact on the segment’s only has the French colour cosmetics market performance over the past year. Trends such as turned around its loss, it has regained its gloss.

Max Factor and Astor. In the organic colour cosmetics sector, DM’s own label brand Alverde is Germany playing a major role, followed by Rossmann’s Alterra and Müller’s Terra Naturi.

Bright Eye openers As in previous years, mascaras were the most popular make-up item for German women. The eyes sub-category grew 2.4% to t306.84m while volume increased 3.1% to 41.53m. Eyeliner was next in line with value sales of t110.88, up 5.4% and volume turnover of 31.11m units, an increase of 3.4%; followed by eyeshadows which, however, registered a loss last year. Value sales slipped 3.5% to t93.17m while volume dropped The German colour cosmetics market had a 5.4% to 19.01m. good year in 2014. According to industry And manufacturers are doing their best to come association IKW, turnover for this sector grew up with new and unusual mascaras. This January 5.5% to t1.562bn. Figures by market researcher L’Oréal launched a new variant in the Mega IRI Germany confirm this positive development: Volume Miss Manga mascara range. Miss Manga the total colour cosmetics market (including eyes, Black Angel contains deep black colour pigments face, lips and nails) grew 4.1% to t1.47bn in value for an extra-intense look. And sister brand and 3.8% to 269.81bn units. Maybelline introduced a new mascara in the Of this total, the eye, face and lip categories Volum’ Express range: Lash Sensational Mascara were particularly successful. Eye products account has a special curved silicone applicator which for the largest slice of the colour cosmetics market combines short bristles on the one side with and this sector grew 3.3% to t543.89m and 3.4% longer bristles on the reverse to create long, thick to 110.08m units. Face products, the second and clearly defined lashes with a fan-like effect. biggest sub-category, registered increases of 4.5% Astor also contributed a new mascara this to t466.20m and 6.6% to 58.92m units while lip summer: Lash Beautifier Volume Mascara has products managed a 6% rise to t241.42m in value been formulated with argan oil, keratin and a and an even more impressive 9.6% increase to combination of waxes to moisturise and condition 41.72m units in volume. the lashes, preventing the mascara from crumbling The market is dominated by German brands, or clumping. The quick drying formula and especially market leader Cosnova with Essence special applicator brush with thin and thick and Catrice, the French Maesa group’s P2 brand bristles envelops each lash in a moisturising coat (Maesa recently acquired P2 from Austrian of colour. lingerie brand Palmers) and Coty-owned Manhattan. The Cosnova brands have an In the long run especially fast launch pace with comprehensive And just a few months ago, Manhattan launched portfolio update twice a year and new limited Supreme Lash Fresh Volume Mascara. Described editions almost every month. P2 also updates its as the first Manhattan mascara to feature vitamins product range in spring and autumn with regular and refreshing cucumber extract, the mascara limited editions throughout the year. promises to lengthen, define and volumise the 5.5% Manhattan’s pace of innovation, on the other lashes, leaving them soft and elegantly curved. Value growth of total hand, has slowed down in recent years, although Essence and Catrice both have a very wide colour cosmetics the brand still offers a very large product selection of mascaras, and each year new variants market in Germany Source: IKW portfolio to start with. join the line-up. The most important launches this In addition, big players include L’Oréal Paris year included Catrice’s Jet Lash Speed Mascara and Jade Maybelline as well as the Coty brands from early 2015, which promises ultra fast volume

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and length thanks to a special V-shaped applicator Germany: Eye products, 2014 brush, and Essence’s Multi Action Mascara, an all- rounder product. wm %+/- Units m%+/- P2 also brought out several mascaras recently. Total market 543.89 3.3 100.08 3.4 The new arrivals include three Glam de Luxe Concealer 1.17 16.9 0.23 16.4 mascara variants: More than Volume mascara promises to dramatically extend and thicken Eyebrow 26.75 29.6 6.69 31.0 lashes, High Shine Lacquer Mascara elongates Eyeliners 110.88 5.4 31.11 3.4 lashes for a sophisticated high-gloss effect and Combi 5.05 53.5 1.47 54.9 Argan Oil Mascara contains an extra portion of Eyeshadow 93.17 -3.5 19.01 -5.4 moisturising argan oil to enhance lash volume while moisturising the lashes. Mascara 306.84 2.4 41.53 3.1 Another interesting P2 launch in this category Sets 0.000,4 -95.1 0.000,1 -93.6 was a multi-purpose entry: Style + Correct Duo is Source: IRI Germany a waterproof mascara – one side of the dual-ended product contains the mascara, while the other is Germany: Eye products, 2015* equipped with a liquid make-up remover to help remove little mistakes immediately. wm %+/- Units m%+/- Total market 280.43 4.7 52.10 5.1 Out of the shadows Concealer 0.43 -26.4 0.06 -45.5 Earlier this year, Essence brought out two new variants in its popular All About… eyeshadow Eyebrows 16.16 27.2 4.13 29.8 palette range. All About Deepsea offers three Eyeliners 55.90 1.8 15.71 1.7 nude tones and three aquatic shades while All Combi 3.67 35.4 0.89 19.6 About Romance features mint, rosé, apricot and Eyeshadow 49.43 7.3 10.10 6.2 brown tones. There is also a new Quattro eyeshadow palette in soft cream tones, as the Mascara 154.80 2.6 21.19 3.1 pastel colour trend is already starting to take off. Sets >0.0 -97.2 >0.0 -97.2 Sister brand Catrice also launched two new * first half 2015. Source: IRI Germany Eyeshadow Palettes this year, Absolute Matt – six matching silky-matte powder tones – and the Absolute Rose collection of matte and example, brought out a new 3D Effect Eyeshadow Manhattan’s new shimmering nude and rose tones. range. The collection includes six metallic shades Supreme Lash Fresh However, just as popular are metallic and satin- in a 3D design. The powder shadows have a silky Volume mascara is the effect shadows. Earlier this year Manhattan, for smooth texture that is easy to apply and gives long first to feature vitamins lasting results. and cucumber extract, claims the brand P2’s latest eyeshadow launch has a similar concept but also incorporates an added twist Trend watch: organic make-up which turns them into a trio product: Line & Color Contouring Matte Eyeshadows (available in Many organic brands carry a small colour seven colour duos) are powder shadows which cosmetics portfolio: Lavera, for example, Sante or Logona, Benecos or, in the more premium sector, feature matching colours. Unlike regular duo Dr. Hauschka and Annemarie Börlind. However, shadows, the Line & Color duos are divided by a the certified organic own label brands of thin strip of black gel eyeliner. Germany’s three big drugstore retailers probably In September 2015, Max Factor introduced a have the widest distribution, especially DM’s 2-in-1 Smokey Eye Drama Kit which is available Alverde brand. in four different shades. The kit contains two Alverde has a wide product portfolio which is highly pigmented powder shadows, a highlighter updated twice a year. The brand and a dark eyebrow powder and is claimed to be also brings out regular limited an all-in-one package to create a perfect smokey editions, most recently launching eye effect. Bube Dame König (Knight, Queen, King) which includes a hand serum, And Essence’s existing line-up of How to a liquid shimmer highlighter, lipsticks Make… Kits (which already includes a Smokey and lip glosses and two loose blush Eye Kit) was extended with a brown version of the powders, all packaged in a playing Smokey Eyes as well as a How to Make Matt Eyes cards-inspired design. box, which features matte powder shadows in Alverde also launched a very unusual nude and rose tones. foundation product this year. Color & The brand also brought out a range of Smokey Care Mix Your Make-up Farbpigmente Eye Pencils, six waterproof shades that can be is an intensive colour cream designed easily blended thanks to a special applicator tip. to be mixed with the range’s other Sister brand Catrice launched Satin Stay Cream to Color & Care foundation products, or any liquid foundation. The cream is Powder Eyeshadow & Liner, a creamy eyeshadow available in two shades, light and packaged in an applicator tube which turns into a dark and allows the consumer to soft, powdery finish. adapt her existing foundation to One of the biggest ongoing trends at the exactly match her skin tone. moment is eyebrow products. This category registered double digit growth in 2014 in both

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Some interesting value and volume terms, growing 29.6% to foundation formats t26.75m and 31.% to 6.69m units respectively. joined the German Launch highlight: Astor Skin market, such as P2’s Take a brow Match Protect oil-free make-up gel In its spring portfolio update, Essence launched Astor’s big autumn launch is the which promises a Make Me Brow Eyebrow Gel Mascara, a tinted new Skin Match Protect range. flawless, matte effect gel containing little fibres to optically fill in and Skin Match is reflecting the trend shade untidy eyebrows. There is also a new towards anti-pollution products Eyebrow Fixing Pencil, a clear waxy pencil which is starting to appear in the premium beauty sector. equipped with a brush applicator which helps to The Primer has a soft light tame and shape unruly brow hairs. texture which includes hydrating Catrice also brought out several eyebrow argan oil, vitamin A, C and E and products this year, including the powdery SPF25. The matching liquid Eyebrow Stylist pencil, while Manhattan launched foundation includes SPF18 and a the Brow’Tastic Eyebrow Styling Gel. The Triple Protection Complex which product is described as combining a super-light contains hydro glycerin, vitamin E texture with long lasting hold thanks to elastic and soybean extract to protect skin polymers, conditioning wheat proteins and a against environmental damage. formula that dries quickly, defining and taming Finally, the concealer contains light-reflective polymers, eyebrows without leaving them sticky. moisturising hydro glycerin and Another eyebrow styler came from budget antioxidant vitamin C and E to hide beauty brand P2. Perfect Brow Fill + Define Liner dark shadows, lines and wrinkles is a waterproof felt tip pen which is available in and make skin appear flawless three shades and promises to help correct uneven and glowing. brows thanks to its fine tip and easily adjustable colour release.

Saving face the German market to launch a BB cream – still In the face category, foundations accounted for managed to come up with a new format this May, the lion’s share of sales, growing 3.2% to extending its Nude Magique range with a BB t272.36m and 3.3% to 25.98m in volume. Face Cream Stick. And in September, the brand powders followed with turnover worth t92.13m, relaunched its Perfect Match Le Teint Makeup up 5.1% and volume sales of 14.65m, up 7.5%. with new packaging and formulations and several The third-biggest category was concealers: this new shades especially for the lighter skin of product type grew 10.3% to t57.24m and 16.5% German women. to 11.55m respectively. Sister brand Jade Maybelline also focused on Although the BB trend is starting to level off the foundation category in its January launch of slightly, L’Oréal Paris – one of the first brands in Dream Wonder Nude Foundation. A line extension in the Dream Wonder foundation range, the silky foundation is described as a highly Germany: Face products, 2014 pigmented formula that is up to 12 times thinner than regular liquid make-up. wm %+/- Units m%+/- Total market 466.20 4.5 58.92 6.6 No make-up make-up Concealer 57.24 10.3 11.55 16.5 Essence’s new Pure Nude Makeup has a similar concept: it is a liquid foundation with an extra Foundations 272.36 3.2 25.98 3.3 light texture which is said to give natural looking Combi 0.25 220.1 0.02 -0.7 coverage with a “no make-up” effect. There is a Powder 92.13 5.1 14.65 7.5 matching concealer with a creamy-powdery Blush 36.94 1.2 6.21 3.5 texture which is packaged in a twist-up stick format. Catrice, on the other hand, contributed Optimisers 7.25 21.7 0.49 -12.5 12H Matt Mousse Makeup, which gives a semi- Source: IRI Germany matte and powdery finish with its airy foam texture. And in April, Manhattan launched Germany: Face products, 2015* Endless Perfection Make Up, an oil-free liquid foundation described as combining high coverage wm %+/- Units m%+/- with a natural-looking comfortable finish thanks Total market 251.16 6.9 32.12 8.9 to moisturising hydra serum. Concealer 33.44 17.2 7.07 24.2 P2 brought out a couple of interesting Foundations 145.29 5.0 13.68 3.5 foundation products recently: Gel Make Up is an oil-free make-up gel which is packaged in a tin. Combi 0.81 2,116.0 0.036 3,945.0 Promising a flawless, matte effect thanks to light- Powder 48.08 5.7 7.74 7.7 reflective pigments and moisturising ingredients, Blush 19.67 5.3 3.30 5.9 the new liquid foundation is available in four Optimiser 3.85 3.7 0.27 6.3 shades. The brand also introduced the moisturising One Fits All Colour Adapting Fluid. * first half 2015. Source: IRI Germany Formulated with vitamin E and encapsulated

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light-reflective pigments, the fluid is claimed to which combines matte and shimmering colour adapt to any skin tone for a natural, even finish. pigments. The Sun Club bronzing range was Another trend that is only starting out is also extended with a new marbled powder contouring. In its latest portfolio relaunch, offering a combination of bronzer and blusher. Essence brought out a new Shading Powder P2 also brought out a couple of highlighter which combines a matte bronzer tone with a products during the summer. Perfect Face shimmering highlighter. Stable-mate Catrice also Glow Up Highlighter is a highlighter in a launched a couple of contouring products, twist-up stick form. The smooth and creamy including the Illuminating Blush from early 2015 formula creates natural looking accents on the which combines matte and shimmering pigments. face or neck. There are also three new Satin In March 2015, Max Factor introduced a marbled Touch Highlighters: powdery-smooth creams mineral powder version of its iconic Pastell packaged in small pots and available in three Compact pressed powder. Pastell Compact Blush different shades. contains ultra-fine light-reflective colour pigments for a fresh, multi-dimensional glow and a natural Lipstick shines again looking finish. The brand says that it is easy to In the lip colour category, lipstick reigned control the colour intensity and when applying the supreme: with turnover of t166.86m, an blush by layers, it is easy to help contour the face. increase of 9.6%, and volume sales of 25.99m At around the same time, Essence introduced units, up 14.9%, this remained the consumer’s Pure Nude Powder, a baked marbled powder favourite make-up products. Lip pencils also

Brand watch: Essence and Catrice Christina Oster-Daum is the CEO of Cosnova, which palettes and the I Love Trends Nudes eyeshadows owns Essence and Catrice, two of Germany’s most were very popular. Looking at the face products, popular make-up brands. She talks to Cosmetics Essence’s bestseller was the All About Matt Make-Up Business Markets about the German market. while the Longlasting Lipstick Nude was one of the star products in the lip colour category. What were the most important trends and Catrice’s eye category bestsellers included the developments in the German colour cosmetics Glam & Doll Mascara range (especially the Black market last year? and Waterproof variants) and the Eyeshadow Among the major products and trends last year palettes (especially the Matt and Rose palettes). In were easy-to-use cosmetics – like multi-purpose or the face make-up category, the Camouflage Cream 2-in-1 make-up items – and ‘colour & care’ and the Allround Concealer were among the most products which combine hydration with colour. As popular products. far as effects are concerned, matte, velvet and high gloss finishes are still really popular and the nude Which limited edition collections were the customer trend continued its reign across the eyes, lips and favourites last year? nails categories. Contouring is a very important Essence’s bestsellers included the Cinderella edition trend in the face make-up sector at the moment, which we launched in cooperation with Disney. On especially when combined with a flawless, natural our website the fans also voted for the following looking finish. collections as their favourite 2014 trend editions: the The lip colour sector grew strongly last year, seasonal Hello Autumn collection, the pastel-inspired especially the classic lipstick category but also lip Love Letters, Bloom Me Up, Cookies & Cream and pencils which are often used in conjunction with Good Girl, Bad Girl. lipsticks. We are increasingly seeing hybrid And among Catrice’s collections, the Nude Purism formulations that offer the coverage and long and Check & Tweed editions were especially popular, lasting effects of a lipstick with the shiny finish of as was the Kaviar Gauche for Catrice edition that was a lip gloss. And anything to do with the eyebrow launched in cooperation with German fashion label area (colour, care and styling) continues to be a Kaviar Gauche, and the ViennART Christmas edition. definite trend. How is the colour cosmetics market going to Which product categories were particularly develop over the next year? Contouring is an successful among the Cosnova brands last year? We believe that the market will continue to grow, important trend in Essence’s major growth categories were nails and albeit in the single digits only. Lip products will Germany’s face eyes but it is noticeable that over the last months remain an important category, while nail polishes are make-up segment the lip sector (especially lipsticks) and face not likely to show any cosmetics (especially concealers) have also grown immediate upward trend. The strongly. Looking at Catrice, the face category major themes next year will (concealers and powders) and eyes (especially include the eyebrow area, mascara and eyeliners) have shown a good matte effects and finishes, long increase. However, the lip pencils sub-category also lasting formulations and registered a positive development. benefits and moisturising ingredients. In the European What were Essence’s and Catrice’s bestselling markets the topic of contouring products or product ranges? will also move into the spotlight Starting with Essence: in the eye category, the Lash – in the US this is already a Princess Mascara, our All About Eyeshadow major trend.

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The lip colour registered very strong growth last year, with an & Shiny. The moisturising formula contains t sector grew increase of 9.1% to 18.23m and an even more hydrating ingredients and is claimed to leave a “ impressive increase of 14.9% to 5.06m units long lasting glossy colour effect on the lips. And strongly last year, in volume. just a month later, the brand came out with All in especially the Earlier this year Maybelline relaunched its One Lipstick; a brand new lipstick range available classic lipstick Color Sensational lipstick range with the in 18 colours. The formula is described as hydrating Color Bloom complex and a new containing a built-in primer complex to keep lips

category but also fragrance blended with notes of soft vanilla and smooth and soft while the high load of colour

lip pencils which red berries. The entire Color Sensational range pigments and moisturising ingredientsl create a are often used“ in was also repackaged to make colour selection long-lasting, glossy finish. conjunction with easier: there are now five colour “families” which P2 also launched a selection of new lip colour include The Reds, The Pinks, The Nudes, The ranges as part of its latest portfolio launch, lipsticks Plums and Rebel Bouquet, an entirely new range including the Full Color Lipstick range, which is Christina Oster-Daum, of pastel colours. available in 15 colours, and the Full Shine CEO, Cosnova And this January, Astor brought out Style Lip Lipsticks which come in nine different shades. Lacquer, a multi-purpose lip product described as There is also a new range of ultra-portable Super combining a high load of colour pigments with Slim Lip Stylos which contain shine-enhancing intense hydration and a shimmering lacquer polymers and give lips a subtle pearly shimmer. effect. Thanks to a silky powder-gel formula and Another interesting duo product is Lips2Cheeks moisturising glycerin and castor oil, the lacquer is Mousse, a 2-in-1 lip gloss-inspired tube of liquid described as being comfortable to wear without colour that can be applied onto cheeks or lips. stickiness. There are ten shades altogether: four with a matte finish and six glossy-effect lacquers. New kid on the block The matte formulations contain additional And this August an entirely new brand hit the powder particles and have a soft foam texture. German market: drugstore retailer DM launched its Duo products have been Essence also introduced a number of new lip first own label colour cosmetics brand. Trend it Up popular in the latest colour ranges as part of its two 2014 portfolio is starting with some 100 sku, primarily nail launches: P2 introduced relaunches. The 6-sku Liquid Lipstick range products (there are some 58 colour and treatment tubes of liquid colour for which was launched this summer is a 2-in-1 polishes), but also some eye and lip products. use on lips or cheeks product which is packaged to look like a lipstick DM is the biggest drugstore chain in Germany but comes with a gloss texture and applicator, with 1,686 stores in Germany and an additional offering intense colour with a shiny finish. 1,453 outlets in 11 European countries, and Earlier this year, Essence also brought out a although Trend it Up will not be available in every new lip balm range. Lip Candies Beautifying Lip single DM across Germany, the brand’s distribution Care are pastel-coloured lip glosses, while the network is still wide enough to make the other brand’s new Mini Sheer Lipbalms are extra retailers sit up and take notice. portable twist-up lip balm sticks which hydrate the So far, Trend it Up has received good reviews lips while leaving them soft and shimmering. And from Germany’s beauty bloggers and DM has Catrice came out with Made To Stay Smoothing already announced that there will be regular limited Lip Polish, a liquid product combining colour, editions. It is still too soon to estimate the effect that durability and a high-gloss finish. the introduction of Trend it Up will have on the Manhattan also concentrated on the liquid colour cosmetics sector, but chances are that it will format in its April launch of Intense Lip Balm Soft shake up the market – at least a bit.

Eyeing further growth Germany: Lip products, 2014 And so far, 2015 is looking equally promising: In the first half of the year, the eye category has already w m %+/- Units m%+/- grown 4.7% to t280.43m and 5.1% to 52.10m Total market 241.42 6.0 41.72 9.6 units in volume. Mascaras registered a rise of 2.6% t Combi 17.36 1.5 2.05 6.2 to 154.80m and a 3.1% increase to 21.19m, eyeliner followed with turnover worth t55.90m, up Lip pencil 18.23 9.1 5.06 14.6 1.8%, and volume sales of 15.71m, an increase of Lipsticks 166.86 9.6 25.99 14.9 1.7%, and eyeshadows registered a positive Lipgloss 38.96 -6.5 8.61 -5.3 development, growing 7.3% to t49.43m and 6.2% Source: IRI Germany to 10.10m respectively. And again, eyebrows are proving to be a major trend, this sub-category has already registered a whopping 27.2% increase to Germany: Lip products, 2015* t16.16m with an even more impressive 29.8% rise wm %+/- Units m%+/- to 4.13m units in volume. Total market 131.50 9.4 23.48 14.7 The face category has also performed well so far, with a value increase of 6.9% to t215.16m and a Combi 10.25 18.6 1.25 24.6 volume rise of 8.9% to 32.12m units. The three Lip pencil 11.77 35.2 3.86 65.7 biggest sub-categories, foundations, powders and Lipsticks 90.54 9.2 14.01 9.9 concealers, registered a successful performance with increases across the board. Foundations grew 5% to Lipgloss 18.93 -4.7 4.34 0.7 t145.29m and 3.5% to 13.68m respectively, * first half 2015. Source: IRI Germany powders registered a 5.7% increase to t48.08m

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while volume sales grew 7.7% to 7.74m and 23.48m, an increase of 14.7%. Lipsticks remained t Spain: Colour Cosmetics,t market concealers rocketed up 17.2% to 33.44m and thevalue biggest and category volume, with sales2013-2014* of 90.54m, an 24.2% to 7.07m units. Meanwhile some astonishing increase of 9.2%, and volume of 14.01m, up 9.9%. growth was seen in “combi”, or multifunctional face Lip pencils, however, are the realTotal star category %+/- at products, thanks to innovations such as Clinique theValue moment (dm) with a 35.2% increase 377.6 to t11.77m -3% Beyond Perfecting Make-Up (+ Concealer). inVolume value and (units a whopping m) 65.7%46.4 rise to 3.86m -2% units t However valued at 0.81m this is a tiny category, so in*52 volume. weeks to 24 August. Source: IRI Spain its growth (2,116%) appears bigger than it is. Altogether, there is a very promising outlook for The lip sector is also looking good: value sales of Germany’s colour cosmetics market for the rest of t131.50m, up 9.4%, and volume turnover of 2015 and into 2016.

coloured creams, which grew 2.3% to t214.2m. This was led by sales in the pharmacy channel, Italy which shot up by 17.6% to t28.6m. The channel was also popular for face powders, showing a 2.2% rise in sales, despite an overall drop of Long lasting 1.8% in powder purchases. Eye make-up also had mixed results, shining positively for mascaras (up 3.4%) and eye liners perfection and pencils (up 3.3%) but heading into the shade with eyeshadows (down 8.2%). As with facial make-up, sales for eye make-up shone in the pharmacy channel, up 9.5% for eyeshadows, 33% for liners and pencils, and a massive 93.2% for mascara. All in all, eye make-up sales made up 4.4% of the total cosmetics market in 2014, Eyes and faces continued to radiate a positive according to Cosmetica Italia. glow in Italy’s colour cosmetics market in 2014, Lips’ loss of colour was due to dips in sales in despite the gloomy state of the country’s economy. lipsticks and lip glosses (-2.6%) and protection, Sales of facial make-up grew 1.1% to t394.2m, colourless foundations and sun sticks (-5%). while eye make-up nudged up 0.9% to t352.4m Adding a touch of gloss was the smallest lip and make-up pack sales grew by 1.3% reaching category, liners and pencils, which grew by 3.1% t48.9m, according to Cosmetica Italia, continuing to t33.7m, according to Cosmetica Italia. And, as to be driven by single-brand distribution and with sales for facial and eye make-up, the corners in the mass market. Lips were not so pharmacy channel showed strong growth, at least lucky, however, with sales drooping by 2.5% to for lipsticks and lip glosses (+6.4%) and liners and t272m in 2014. pencils (+5.9%). In general, however, although it For facial make-up, which constitutes 4.9% of didn’t shine as brightly as the other make-up the total cosmetics market, the biggest growth categories, lips managed to maintain its share of was in its largest category, foundations and overall cosmetics sales in 2014, at 3.4%.

Italy: Colour cosmetics, market value, 2014, ym Pharmacies Perfumeries Other Of which Total %+/- channels mass Facial make-up 56.6 181.1 156.6 19.7 394.2 1.1 Foundations and coloured 28.6 100.6 85.0 10.8 214.2 2.3 creams Face powder 5.0 14.9 21.4 3.1 41.2 -1.8 Cheek correctors, blushers 23.0 65.6 50.2 5.8 138.9 0.0 and bronzing powders Make-up packs – 34.6 14.3 2.6 48.9 1.3 Eye make-up 29.3 141.5 181.6 22.6 352.4 0.9 Shadows 3.0 26.1 40.5 1.9 69.6 -8.2 Mascara 16.5 67.8 77.0 13.5 161.4 3.4 Liners and pencils 9.8 47.6 64.0 7.2 121.4 3.3 Lip products 46.2 85.2 140.5 23.9 272.0 -2.5 2.3% Lipsticks and lip glosses 11.9 70.0 93.8 8.0 175.6 -2.6 Value growth of foundations and Liners and pencils 1.3 14.8 17.7 0.8 33.7 3.1 coloured creams in Protections, colourless 33.1 0.5 29.0 15.1 62.6 -5.0 Italy, 2014 foundations and sun sticks Source: Cosmetica Italia Source: Cosmetica Italia

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Despite growth in the sector being driven by brands deliver on their claims. Micol Caivano, Italian women Spain: Colour Cosmetics, market research the brands trends in the mass market, one channel that Managingvalue and Director volume, and Head 2013-2014* of Marketing and “ reported a drop in sales for almost all colour Communications for Diego dalla Palma, tells that are consistent cosmetic categories was hypermarkets and Cosmetics Business MarketsTotal: “The Italian %+/- with themselves, supermarkets, ranging from an 18.8% decline in womanValue ( dresearchesm) how to use 377.6 make-up to -3%make that keep their lipsticks and lip gloss sales and 16.7% drop for herVolume own statement,(units m) not only personally46.4 because -2% eyeshadows to a 5.5% fall in cheek correctors, she wants to feel good about herself but also to promises, offering *52 weeks to 24 August. Source: IRI Spain blushers and bronzing powders. The only area in please others by focusing on a particular part of products that are which hypermarket/supermarket sales rose was herself.” She adds: “They research the brands that

always reliable, eye liners and pencils, which inched over the are consistent with themselves, that keep their

of high quality growth line by 0.4%. promises, offering products that are always “ reliable, of high quality and that have an optimal and that have an The eyes have it quality/price ratio.” optimal quality/ Long lasting and waterproof are the key words in The long lasting promise was not just confined price ratio eye make-up innovation and Kiko Milano’s to the lashes and brows, however. Kiko Milano Micol Caivano, Managing (Percassi) Extra Sculpt Mascara is no exception, added a touch of intensity to summer with Cream Director and Head coming in two versions: Volume and Waterproof. Crush Eyeshadow, a range of 16 bold colours that of Marketing and Created in collaboration with Japanese designer promise to be long lasting (up to ten hours) and Communications, Makio Hasuike, Extra Sculpt brings ‘Oriental style smudge-proof. Soft, silky Cream Crush comes in Diego dalla Palma [together] with Occidental innovation in make- either matte or pearl finishes in shades ranging up’. Active ingredients include tripeptide, for from Pearly Vintage Rose to Mat Ebony, Mat maximum volume effect; marine extracts to give Light Mahogany and Pearly Emerald. body to and repair the lashes; shea butter to Collistar’s (Bolton Group) Magic Eye Shadow nourish and moisturise; and filmogenous agents Colour and Perfection, part of its autumn/winter to help separate and volumise. The brush has 2015 Nude+ collection, is said to accentuate the been designed in an hourglass shape for eyes while covering up imperfections. The formula improved application, even on shorter lashes, promises long lasting, non-smudging coverage and helping to deliver an ultra-black fan-shaped look comes in four subtle shades: Pearl, Nude, Chiffon around the eyes. and Bronze. The liquid eyeshadow can be used Pupa Milano (Micys Company) also went alone or with other cream or powder products. The waterproof and long lasting with Made to Last brand also added a new Light shade to its range of Waterproof Eyeshadow, a cream eyeshadow in a Professional Eye Pencils, a pearlised shade to twist-up stick format. A blend of film coatings and further accentuate and open up the eye area. volatile silicones gives it resistance to water and extreme hold, while a mix of pigments and pearls Water resistance and deliver intense colour. Also usable as an eyeliner, it long lasting hold were is available in 12 colours and four finishes: Pearly Launch highlight: Collistar key product attributes Sand Flash White, Soft Pink and Nude Gold; Blush+Sculpting Powder in this year’s eye Golden Brown Desert Taupe, Bronze Brown and The star product in Collistar’s Nude+ collection make-up launches Golden Brown; Sea Waves Emerald, Pool Blue takes up the sculpting trend and gives it a twist. and Atlantic Blue; and Deep Ocean Shocking Blusher+Sculpting Powder combines a light Violet, Metal Grey and Extra Black. shade with a dark shade in the same compact to The brand also expanded its Vamp! line with a enable the user to create a light and dark optical waterproof mascara and eyeliner. Vamp! Mascara illusion for a professionally sculpted look. Also in Waterproof contains both a hydrophobic polymer the Nude+ collection, Camouflage Concealer is and a plastic film coating to give it both water a high-tech concealer with a creamy pliable resistance and long lasting hold, while spherical texture that promises to blend in instantly and silica and an hourglass-shaped brush make for cover every imperfection. It comes in three smooth application. A blend of natural and shades of Light, Medium and Dark. The brand has also added a Nude+ shade to its Foundation synthetic waxes enable a rich structured look. + Concealer Total Perfection Duo with Pure Similarly, the polymer in Vamp! Definition Liner Actives. The new shade’s intelligent pigments are Waterproof gives it water resistance while a film said to deliver ‘brilliance and radiance to the coating enables it to deliver a glossy, defined line. highest degree’. The mascara is available in Extra Black only, while Another product in the the eyeliner comes in four shades: Glossy Black, range, and taking Pearly Brown, Pearly Blue and Pearly Peacock. foundation to another Keeping up with the trend, Diego dalla Palma stage, is Lip Foundation launched two new eye products in its new Natural Perfection. Rich in MakeUpStudio line: Water Resistant Eyeliner and active ingredients, it protects and hydrates the lips High Performance Mascara, which it says will not as well as providing anti- only provide volume and intensity to the lashes ageing benefits. It can be but will also last up to 16 hours. The used on its own for a MakeUpStudio range was launched in October natural look or applied 2015, with creations inspired by professional before lipstick or gloss. It make-up artists. comes in two shades: Light New launches are of course packed with and Medium. promises but it is of paramount importance that

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Diego dalla Palma also took on the pearl trend Launched in October, Made to Last EvaGarden’s new Rebel with a new range of eyeshadow, Polvere Compatta Foundation’s main selling points are ‘extreme Collection of jumbo per occhi Satin Pearl, a powder compact staying power’ and comfort. Its formula includes eyeshadow pencils use eyeshadow with pearlescent pigments, available in Last&Fix pigments, which evenly cover microsphere particles to 15 vibrant colours. “To let new consumers get to imperfections, while a blend of filming ingredients deliver a soft-focus effect know our brand and to test its quality, we invite and volatile agents provides resistance to humidity them to bring in their old eyeshadow and get a and high temperatures and spherical powders give discount on the new one,” Caivano tells a mattifying and smoothing effect. In Italy, it is Cosmetics Business Markets. available in six neutral shades, ranging from EvaGarden took a rebellious line with its Porcelain, for very fair skin, to Golden Beige, for eyeshadow with Ombretto Jumbo (Jumbo Eye dark skin tones. Shadow), part of its new Rebel Collection. The Like a Doll Foundation is a fluid foundation jumbo pencil has a long lasting waterproof that is said to cover up imperfections with a formulation with microsphere particles that completely natural, nude look. Pupa says its deliver a soft-focus effect, light oils for softness ‘shake&shake’ formula means its texture is as light and hydration and vitamin E for its anti-ageing as water. Further, its blend of volatile silicones and antioxidant benefits. It comes in 11 intense gives a silky feel to the skin. Like a Doll colours including Celestial [blue], Radiant Orchid, Foundation comes in six shades, ranging from Creampuff and Dark Granite. Porcelain to Golden Beige. Deborah Milano has launched a foundation that Sculpted perfection it says has been designed to allow the skin to One of the key trends for the face was the ‘bare skin breathe. Dress Me Perfect foundation contains effect’, Chiara Galli, Senior Product Manager for Skin Oxygenating DH Complex, which helps to Pupa Milano, tells Cosmetics Business Markets. promote the oxygenation of the skin. In addition, “Over the last 12 months Pupa has launched microspheres give a soft focus effect, while its products targeted to meet the strongest demands of super lightweight fluid texture leaves the skin the Italian market: long lasting, the ‘bare skin looking natural and smooth. It comes in five effect’ and the lips, the absolute stars of make-up. shades: Fair, Beige, Sand, Apricot and Amber. “With regard to long lasting, Pupa has made a Kiko Milano Liquid Skin Second Skin series of proposals in a single franchise: Made to Foundation is a lightweight foundation that aims Last. To fully grasp the trend of the ‘bare skin to moisturise, nourish and protect the skin while effect’, Pupa has also created a new dimension of delivering a natural, radiant look. It contains light: Like a Doll, an innovative face product with a hyaluronic acid to moisturise and firm the skin; sensory texture for a naturally corrected skin.” vitamin C to keep the skin looking youthful and

Retail watch: Kiko Milano Founded by Percassi in 1997, Kiko Milano bases its new to discover. We frequently launch product range of make-up, face and body treatments collections to cover every trend, taste and need for around a ‘Made in Italy’ philosophy. Its expanding different targets. These collections are a full single-brand chain of stores give customers the expression of what we think will be trending at the change to ‘express their personality with custom- time the products hit the stores. This happens made products’. It currently has over 500 points of through extensive research that goes on all year sale in Europe. Creative and Product Knowledge round, done by our Trend Research Team, always Manager Andrea Pesce tells Cosmetics Business looking out for inspiration all over the world, Markets about how the brand keeps up with exploring art, design, magazines, trade shows, current trends. music, movies, observations of trendsetters, scientific innovation, travelling around the globe What were the principal trends in colour and pure intuition. cosmetics in Italy over the past year? Along with the collections there is something The biggest trends over the past year were happening in the shops almost every week: new contouring (now developing into strobing); nude product launches, shade extensions, suggestions for look base eyes and nails; rich reds, burgundy and new looks and promotions. bright pinks over lips and nails; strong eyebrows; and brightening and highlighting serums and What were your most popular skin care. products in Italy during the past year? What are Italians looking for in their colour White-based eye pencils to be cosmetics? applied inside the eye (‘butter eye Long wearing, true-to-colour, comfortable textures khols’); moisturising and are a priority, followed by natural finish, ease of brightening products (Crystal Serum application, luminosity and the latest colour trends. from Generation Next, now relaunching due to great success), How do you market your colour cosmetic Cushion Foundation (another products in Italy? product from Generation Next that We are constantly launching products and has made it to the range) and all renewing the store so there is always something eyebrow related products.

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Milano, tells Cosmetics Business Markets. I’M Matt Lip Fluid, like the original I’M Lipstick launched last year, has a highly pigmented formulation that promises pure, intense colour that is long lasting and comfortable to wear. It comes in 12 shades of Nude/Brown, Apricot/Coral, Red/Bordeaux and Pink/Fuschia. Keeping up with the bright theme is EvaGarden’s Rebel Collection, which aims to give women a sophisticated, vibrant look, with bright lips and intense eyes. Rebel Mat lipstick comes in four rebellious shades – Briquette, Tango Red, Mars Red and Deco Rose – and a slim stylo format for easy application. It also promises to moisturise and protect the lips, thanks to the wild mango butter in its formula. Rebel Collection also supple; resveratrol to slow the ageing process; and features four new shades of Ultralasting lipstick – creatine for energy. It is available in 14 shades of Peach Damask, Pink Beach, Pecos Spice and Cool Rose, Warm Rose, Warm Beige and Adobe Dust – combining lip cream and lip gloss Neutral. Kiko recommends applying it with the with a formula that aims to provide all-day colour, Liquid Skin Foundation Brush, designed thanks to its mix of special polymeric films and especially for fluid foundations. To complete the elastomeric silicones. look, Dark Circle Tone Eraser works to correct To celebrate the 30th anniversary of L’Oréal dark circles under the eyes, while microspheres Paris’s Color Riche lipstick, the brand has created help to smooth out imperfections. It is available in a new palette of 31 colours in glossy, matte and two shades. In addition, Dark Circle Concealer lacquer, including four new reds, three new shades provides long lasting under-eye coverage that of plum, five new pinks, three new brown shades. camouflages dark circles and brightens the eye L’Oréal Infallible Mega Gloss, on the other hand, area. It is available in eight shades. promises to bring shape, shine and colour to the Diego dalla Palma also put added benefits in the lips. The formula is enriched with hyaluronic acid facial products in its MakeUpStudio range. Primer and shine colour pigments so they are both Perfezionatore Effetto Lifting is a 3-in-1 make-up hydrated and glossy. The special Lip Shaper base that levels, smoothes and perfects. Its applicator promises to perfectly define the curvature ingredients include Primer Technology, which of the lips without smudging. It comes in 25 bright creates a thin film on the skin that reduces the shades in four different finishes: Candy Baby appearance of wrinkles and imperfections, and 3D creamy finish for a romantic ‘baby doll’ look; Ultra Instant Lift, which is said to create a 3D Pop neon finish in five fluorescent shades; Shining tightening effect, relaxing and smoothing fine Vamp bright finish, intense colours complete with lines. Fondotinta Alta Coprenza Lunga Tenuta glitter; and Forever Glossy extreme hold finish. The SPF 20 is a long lasting, high-coverage foundation range also includes Push Me Up Top Gloss for a that promises to give a natural, bright look, while shiny top coat with a volumising effect. Correttore Zero Occhiaie e Imperfezioni is a long Collistar’s new Art Design Lipstick also brings Collistar’s new Art Design Lipstick lasting corrector for the eye area which claims to sculpting to the lips with a formula that takes combines sculpted deliver a ‘zero imperfections’ finish. advantage of the restructuring and lifting effects of platinum and gold red berries. The sculpting effect is enhanced by an packaging with a Subtle and intense ultra-creamy texture and bright, intense colour – formula which brings a Nudes, reds and corals dominated the lips in Italy 18 shades ranging from subtle to audacious, sculpting effect to lips over the past year, combined with promises of passionate and intense. Its packaging delivers a long lasting hold, hydration and intensity. statement of simple contemporary elegance: a Collistar added four new shades to its Vibrazioni platinum twisted body sitting on a gold, laminated di Colore Lipstick range, designed to accompany square cuboid base. its Nude+ collection and to harmonise with its new palette of Satin Effect Cashmere Nail Shades of the season Lacquers. Three of the shades are subtle but chic Art and design were definitely in the air at – Nude, Biscuit and Pale Pink – while the fourth is Collistar. In 2014, it formed a partnership with a more intense brick red – Marsala – which the Milan-based design company Kartell, a brand says has been voted the colour of 2015. collaboration that resulted in a limited edition “The lip world has welcomed the trend of pure make-up collection as part of the Ti Amo Italia and full colour, a trend that Pupa has defined in project. This year the design venture has gone two make-up effects: bright and brilliant, with I’M super bright with the eye-catching Transparency Rossetto Colore Puro Brillantezza Assoluta [I’M collection. The brand added four new hues to its Pure Color Lipstick Absolute Brightness], which Gloss Design lip palette to reflect what it says is the market leader, and with matte I’M Matt Lip were the colours of the summer season: Papyrus, a Fluid –Rossetto Liquido Colore Puro – Opaco ‘vitamin-packed orange’; Shine, a bright shade of Assoluto [I’M Matt Lip Fluid Pure Color Liquid pink; Take, a deep cherry; and Cindy, an intense Lipstick – Absolute Matt], the new fluid version,” shade of fuschia. Four Professional Lip Pencils Giorgio Forgani, Global Make Up Artist for Pupa add definition in Dune (fuschia), Matelassé (orange)

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and Moon, which it says ‘recalls an uncontaminated Eyeshadow functions as a 3-in-1 contouring powder coral reef’. for face, cheeks and eyes – its colour was created The Transparency collection also includes from a mix of taupe, brown and pink – while Trasparenze Multi-Blush Eyeshadow, three Multicolor Blush Powder brings four shades blendable shades of silky powder housed in fuschia- together in a single compact: Bordeaux, clay, pink coloured packaging, doubling both as an eyeshadow and orange. For the eyes, Urban Jungle Duo and a blush. Also sporting three blendable shades in Eyeshadow sports two shades in either a classic one is Silk Effect Eye Shadow, available in four combination of brown and camel or an colour combinations: Fly, shades of green; Jelly, undergrowth-inspired duo of green and butter. cream with shades of hazelnut; Charles Ghost, Meanwhile Chestnut Illusion Eyeshadow is a described as ‘electrifying and fun’; and the even mousse that adds a bit of sparkle and sophistication. bolder Frilly. Meanwhile, the new Professional Eye Keeping with the trend for long lasting, water- Pencil comes in new shades Shanghai and Thalya. resistant products, the season’s offerings include Finally, the range’s Sexy Look Sensual Oil face Long Lasting Universal Eyebrow Marker, Long and body illuminator blends oil with a soft orange Lasting Eyeliner and Sottobosco [undergrowth] hue, with a fuschia pink concentrate containing Water Resistant Eye Pencil. For the lips, browns golden microparticles to moisturise the skin, and reds mark the season in Chubby Lip Stylo, leaving it shining with a delicate sequin-like glow. Geisha Noir Liquid Lipstick (which is actually an For spring/summer 2015, Diego dalla Palma amaranth colour, not black), Absolute Mat burst out in an explosion of corals and pinks, Lipstick and Dark Lipstick. inspired by Mexican artist Frida Kahlo, while its The brand is going festive for Christmas 2015 limited edition Cruise Collection, launched in with a limited edition collection in reds, pearls and March for the summer, explored the richness and sparkles, including Diamond Drops, which warmth of gold. And the brand’s 2015 promises to bring an illuminating diamond effect autumn/winter collection is characterised by warm to the face, neck and décolleté. colours – browns and greens – and comfort with a It seems that make-up will continue to sparkle sense of elegance. Hazel Contouring Blush & in Italy, at least for the foreseeable future.

Spain: Colour Cosmetics, market Spain value and volume, 2014-2015* Total %+/- Value (um) 384.4 2% Out of the Units (m) 49.0 5% shadows *52 weeks to 26 July. Source: IRI Spain statement. “We’ve actually seen an increase, not only in the amount of money spent but also in the number of units sold, which shows the strength of the sector. It remains to be seen whether the situation will remain unchanged in the years ahead.” The forecast 12 months ago was for sales Despite slowing down slightly in 2013, the to reach t659m by 2018, representing a 2% Spanish make-up sector has been immune from increase over five years. the economic crisis that has ravaged the country in Figures from IRI Spain for facial, lip and eye recent years. That’s at least the conclusion of a make-up for last year paint a similarly positive report from the EAE Business School, published picture. Sales rose by 2% to t384m in the 52 in September 2014. It showed the country remains weeks to 26 July, as volumes increased by 5% to solidly in the middle of the pack when it comes to 49m units. Each of the three segments saw make-up purchases worldwide. The report, El growth, ranging from 5% for lipsticks to 1% for Gasto en Maquillaje 2014 (Make-up spending), facial products. Likewise, there was an 11% showed Spanish women spent t646m in 2013, improvement in the quantity of lipsticks bought, purchasing some 85m units. Volumes were but the facial make-up market remained flat. The identical to the year before, while the amount of latter nonetheless remains the largest sub-category money invested per person showed a slight in value terms, accounting for t167.3m, followed increase of 1%. There was a similar rise in the by eyes (t127.4m) and lips (t89.1m). When it price per unit. comes to volumes, eye make-up takes gold with The effect seems to be that, rather than cut more than 20m units sold in the past year. back, Spanish women are actually loosening the By outlet, volumes are more or less shared 5% purse strings when it comes to cosmetics. “One between the larger stores and the perfumeries, at Volume growth of Spain’s colour might think that in times of economic difficulty, 25m and 24m units respectively. However, this cosmetics market the make-up sector might suffer as people give up represented 10% growth for the supermarkets and (eyes, lips and non-essential purchases. However, make-up use hypermarkets, but only 1% in the case of the face), 2014-2015 has not been affected,” says Juan Aitor Lago, smaller shops. In terms of revenue, however, there Source: IRI Spain Director of EAE’s Strategic Research Centre in a is a major difference. The IRI Spain figures reveal

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We’ve actually that the larger stores recorded 7% sales growth to t seen an increase, 121m, while the specialist locations reported a “ flat market at t263.4m. Launch highlight: Sensilis not only in the If the perfumeries and modern drugstores are Premium Lipsticks amount of money more likely to attract big spenders, the make-up Spanish firm Sensilis targets consumers with a

spent but also in releases that have reached Spanish stores in recent range of quality products through pharmacy and

the number of months seem to have something to suit all budgets parapharmacy channels, including at retailer El “ – and tastes. In the eye make-up section, Clarins Corte Inglés. Its latest launch is a collection of units sold, which has introduced a new creamy eye shadow with a lipsticks and lip care that offer a range of shows the strength matte finish. Ombre Matte consists of six shades textures, tones and finishes and are said to meet from nude to black. The secret ingredient that the highest standards for cosmetics and of the sector anti-ageing care. A transparent base gives the matt finish is bamboo powder and the Juan Aitor Lago, Director, uses hyaluronic acid and EAE’s Strategic Research line also contains soft focus pigments to avoid the microcapsules of retinol to moisturise Centre shine that is often found with eye make-up. The and promote cell regeneration and light, creamy formula means it is easy to apply. there is also a collection of pencils for Clinique, meanwhile, has introduced Wear a precise outline. Everywhere, a collection of five palettes, with eight In particular, the transparent pencil shadows each. The simplest palettes are greys and can be used with any lipstick colour nudes with neutral tones and smoky looks in to avoid leaving a line as the lip traditional brown shades. There is also greens, colour fades. There are four colour pinks and blues, the latter containing shades of collections – Intense, Velvet, Sheer and Shimmer Lips – providing a greys and browns as well as blues. Meanwhile, Kiko palette of shades such as plum, has launched Cream Crush, an eyeshadow that also raspberry, chocolate, peach and works as a liner. The versatile product has also been beige, with slightly different created to last for a couple of days without the need characteristics. Intense, for for retouching. The 16 colours in the range go from example, gives a long lasting matte black to a pearly matte and can be combined with effect, while Sheer has a subtle other cream or powder shadows for different looks. finish and shine that reflects light A final eyeshadow launch comes from French to intensify the lips’ natural tones. cosmetics giant L’Oréal Paris. La Palette Nude offers two palettes of ten tones each for a wealth of combinations. The predominant shades of pink and Finally, there have been a number of make-up beige can be harmoniously blended using one of the collection launches in recent months. Rodial has nude masterclasses created for each palette, or the created an entire range of facel and eye products customer can choose their own look. that contain hyaluronic acid for its anti-ageing properties. The collection includes the Instaglam In the pink sheer fluid Highlighter that has a yellow tone to Remaining in that colour scheme, L’Oréal has also add definition to the face and bring light to launched a new range of lipsticks for 2015/2016: certain areas, and Instaglam Glow, which is said to Colour Riche Pink Obsession. The range consists be a luminescent complexion enhancer that adds a of nine colours from a delicate pink to vibrant golden glow to areas the sun would naturally fuchsia. The Colour Riche lipsticks contain omega- touch, for extra radiance. There is also a Smokey 3 and vitamin E to prevent dryness and help make Eye Pen, Compact Deluxe Contour Powder and lips more supple. Chanel, meanwhile, chose red for Bronzing Powder. its spring/summer creation. The new Rouge Coco Finally, Swedish fashion store H&M has collection of 24 unique shades uses the Hydra Boost developed an eco-friendly cosmetics line – including complex that is enriched with ingredients such as make-up, as well as hair and body care items – that mimosa, jojoba and sunflower oil to nourish and will initially consist of some 700 skus, although is moisturise the lips. Another lipstick available to forecast to reach 1000, including products such as Spanish consumers comes from shoe manufacturer nail polish. The environmentally friendly approach Christian Louboutin. The high end collection of 36 means the use of certified products that are shades is said to have been inspired by the famed paraben-, GMO- and dye-free, with packaging Egyptian queen Nefertiti and, as with the previous made from recycled materials. The initial products nail varnish, includes the company’s iconic shade of cost between t3-t26, although the retailer is said red. As is perhaps to be expected, the lipstick doesn’t to be working on a premium range as well. come in a regular format. Rather, Louboutin has A premium approach would seem to be a good created a gold and black vial with a crown and loops fit with the Spanish market if the trend so that they can be attached to a necklace chain. highlighted in the EAE Business School report holds true and people remain willing to spend that Spain: Colour cosmetics sales by category 2015* little bit extra on their make-up. If the sector has perhaps weathered the economic crisis better than wm %+/- Units m%+/- other consumer goods markets, it has not all been Eyes 127.4 1 20.2 6 plain sailing. It will be interesting to see how the Lips 89.1 5 13.0 11 improving economy plays out, whether the Face 167.8 1 15.7 0 current pattern indeed remains and how much of consumers’ greater disposable incomes is allocated *52 weeks to 26 July. Source: IRI Spain to colour cosmetics.

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UK: Colour cosmetics, market value UK and volume, 2014-2015 52 w/e 52 w/e %+/- 17 Aug 14 16 Aug15 Flushed Value (£m) 656.486 690.105 5.1 Volume (packs m) 117.580 123.626 5.1 with Source: Kantar Worldpanel

UK: Colour cosmetics, % share, success by sector, 2014-2015 52 w/e 52 w/e %+/- 17 Aug 14 16 Aug15 Face 46.3 46.7 6.1 From contouring to tontouring, strobing to Eyes 36.5 36.7 5.8 baking, technique-based make-up trends have defined the UK colour cosmetics market over the Lips 17.3 16.6 1.1 past year, contributing in no small part to the Source: Kantar Worldpanel dazzling success it has experienced. With a growth rate of 5.1% both in value and volume terms, the marketing and fashion – it’s always about the next UK has outshone many other countries’ make-up best thing on the market. And since the recession categories both in Europe and beyond. the customer is very often led by price point – Within the wider UK C&T industry, colour which suits our brand. In the department stores, cosmetics is now “one of the best performing competition is high. Artdeco also stands for markets,” according to Charlotte Libby, Senior trends, no matter if they are created internally, by Beauty Analyst at Mintel. Data from Kantar celebrities or by the press, Artdeco will be a part Worldpanel shows that in the year to 16 August of it.” 2015, the colour cosmetics market – covering the And if trends are important to consumers, they eye, lip and face make-up categories – reached a are crucial to industry growth. Recent figures from record-breaking £690.105m and 123.626m units. The NPD Group revealed that sales of highlighters Face make-up, the largest category with nearly – key to the strobing trend – grew by 48.5% in the 47% of the market, followed by eye make-up prestige make-up market this year growing in value posted particularly strong growth rates, up 6.1% from £5.5m to £8m in the January to August 2015 and 5.8% respectively, while lips also managed a period as consumers adopted the technique as they smile, upturning by 1.1%. looked to create the perfect photo finish. June But while the trends that are fuelling market Jensen, Director of UK Beauty for The NPD growth are not new – many have been used by Group, says: “Strobing, which emerged in early professional make-up artists for years – 2015, is the year’s hot new make-up trend which is consumers’ access to them is. Libby says that the driving consumers to spend more on highlighters market is “benefiting from increasing so they can experiment with this new way of experimentation as fashion and beauty blogs make accentuating the face.” global trends more accessible... Video tutorials The success of the UK make-up category is also make seemingly complicated techniques easy to generating overall growth in the total beauty replicate at home. This social sharing was also market. In the prestige channel, for example, responsible for the creative nail art trend of 2013, make-up sales boomed by 14.3% compared with the desire to replicate the eyebrows of Cara the same period in 2014, reaching £390m and Delevingne, and the driving force behind facial growing its share of the total prestige beauty contouring becoming a beauty buzzphrase.” market by 3.2%. NPD believes that the overriding trend which has sparked this exuberant display of 24/7 beauty growth is the popularity of the selfie. “Pioneered Instant access to unlimited beauty advice and by celebrities such as Kim Kardashian, it’s a trend techniques has also changed make-up consumers we see across the board and make-up is essential themselves. Nicola Mealia, Managing Director of to creating the perfect look,” says Jensen. “Face, Chleo Enterprises, which distributes Artdeco in eye and lip make-up is vital to achieving a photo- the UK and Ireland, tells Cosmetics Business ready finish and brands have responded with Markets: “Consumers see themselves as their foundation and primers that reference the look own make-up artists, regularly following YouTube people want to achieve using terms like photo- tutorials. Highlighting, contouring, strobing and ready, camera-ready and HD. It’s spawned a new the newest ‘baking’ trend only prove how fast sub-sector and is driving sales.” paced the industry has become. These trends are Indeed a closer look at prestige sales reveals 5.1% constantly featured by celebrities in the media.” double-digit growth for all three core segments: Value growth of UK Mealia adds that to the UK consumer, “Trends face make-up boomed by 17% to £206m; eye colour cosmetics are massively important – they want to be able to make-up grew 13% to £101m; and lip make-up market, 2014-2015 obtain the newest must-have products at shot up by 16% to £54m. Foundation alone Source: Kantar Worldpanel affordable prices all of the time. They are not as reported sales of £112, up 16% in the January loyal to brands and tend to be led by product to August 2015 period.

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Consumers see HD make-up has, in fact, been in the spotlight for several years – Estée Lauder-owned Smashbox themselves as their Launch highlight: Smashbox “ started out as a Hollywood-based photography own make-up studio so its association with photo-ready finishes Camera Ready BB Water artists, regularly has always been at the heart of its product Smashbox has hit refresh on the BB following YouTube development. Its original Photo Finish scene with the introduction of the Foundation Primer launched back in 2000 and first BB Water, designed to provide tutorials. ultra-moisturisation and blur the brand has gone on to establish a reputation imperfections. The water-like Highlighting, for bestselling primers and photo-ready texture is claimed to glide onto the contouring, foundations. Other launches followed, such as face without caking, drying or strobing and the Lancôme’s (L’Oréal) Photogenic Lumessence cracking, with a few drops creating Foundation. However, the number of new launches a natural look that is free from

newest ‘baking’ hitting the market has rapidly gathered pace over imperfections such as fine lines,

trend only prove the past two years, In 2014, Smashbox launched pores and blemishes. The formula how fast-paced“ Camera Ready BB Cream SPF35, a multi-tasking uses Smashbox’s exclusive Photoset Polymers to ensure it the industry has formula that is designed to create a flawless complexion by offering numerous immediate and lasts from morning to evening and become long term benefits. The product primes the skin, is also buildable, enabling it to offer sheer to medium coverage. Nicola Mealia, Managing reducing the appearance of pores, perfects and Director, Chleo Enterprises It comes in eight shades that are conceals imperfections, protects it against UVA and oil and alcohol-free. UVB rays, hydrates the skin and controls oil to keep excessive shine at bay. Long term, the product offers further skin care benefits such as helping to meet the demands of new 4K technology which reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve will be used in the next generation of digital radiance, moisture and hydration. devices to display images in much finer detail and clarity than existing HD technology. Its new Photo-ready skin product is Ultra HD Foundation Fluid, a lighter Make Up For Ever, which launched in the UK in weight formula that is said to provide a second-skin Debenhams earlier this year, has gone even further texture, while an extensive 40 shades are available in the quest for photo-ready skin by claiming to to cover all skin tones.

Brand watch: Louise Young Professional make-up artist Louise Young tells Cosmetics Business Markets about the launch of her first make-up collection, Louise Young Cosmetics, which includes eyeshadow, concealer and lip colour palettes, blushers and a highlighter for cheeks and eyes

What have you set out to achieve with your first make-up range? As a make-up artist, we need high performance products with no gimmicks that really work. I have set out to create a range that all women can use, is top quality and is made in the UK. products are tested by make-up artists as well, so they really work. Does the range have a hero product? I’d say it’s the Essential Eye Palette; this was my first What are the biggest trends you are seeing at the launch into cosmetics following the success of the moment in make-up products? brushes and then led me to develop the capsule Contouring has been a trend for a while but it is cosmetic collection. It’s a great multi-tasking product generally done incorrectly. It is a film and that can be used as eyeshadow, liner, for the brows photographic technique that has been around for a and even to contour. long time but has come into mainstream make-up because people are copying celebrity looks. The Where is the range available? colour that is chosen to contour should be the It is launching in Harvey Nichols Knightsbridge, shade of the natural shadows on the face. A taupe Birmingham and the Beauty Bazaar Liverpool this colour is best on fair skin in general – not brown. autumn, and is also available at Jarrolds, Norwich, Highlighting is a better option, with less chance of plus online at louiseyoungcosmetics.com it looking false.

Do you think that make-up artist-led ranges tend How would you like to develop your make-up to become more likely to be ‘cult’ ranges with range in the future? consumers than ranges from big beauty houses? I have recently found a foundation formula that I am Yes, I do think they’re more likely to be seen as cult very happy with, so will be launching these very ranges. I would hope that the wider public will soon. I am also currently considering a number of appreciate the fact that the range is created and opportunities in the US to launch the cosmetics Louise Young designed by a working make-up artist, and that all the line there.

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Mass market brand Revlon has also launched Duo to add definition and structure to the Brands like Estée several products within the HD sub-sector of face cheekbones. And black|Up launched Dual Ended Lauder (below) have make-up including PhotoReady Airbrush Effect Contouring Stick, designed to make it easier to capitalised on the Foundation, an update to the PhotoReady play with light and shadow on the face. contouring and Foundation Make-Up range with a new formula And the trend continues to attract NPD. In sculpting trends by launching new kits to that contains light filtering technology for a September, Estée Lauder introduced face contour drive sales flawless finish, soft focus pigments for luminosity kit New Dimension Shape + Sculpt Face Kit, a and SPF, offering medium to full coverage in a compact with two cream shades to help create a range of eight shades. more defined facial shape, with the neutral tones designed for mistake-proof contouring. The Highlighters in the spotlight brand also launched an eye contour kit, with More recently, the brand launched PhotoReady concentrated skin care product Shape + Fill Skinlights, a face illuminator that incorporates Expert Serum and Expert Liquid Tape, a photochromatic pigments and light-capturing treatment that helps to give a tighter feel to facial crystals to banish dullness for a ‘lit from within’ contours, and a more lifted look around the eyes, look that is in line with this year’s strobing trend. as part of the New Dimension range. Jensen says: “Brands have capitalised on this with Aside from dedicated strobing and contouring new launches and focusing marketing on existing products, highlighting and brightening benefits lines to drive sales in store and online.” remain a key element in many new face make-up Clinique (Estée Lauder), for example, has launches. Make-up artist Charlotte Tilbury, who focused on both highlighting and contouring this has experienced phenomenal success since year, extending its Chubby Stick range with launching her collection two years ago and Sculpting Highlight, a gently shimmering will later this month launch her first illuminator in a cream formula within a wind-up standalone House of Tilbury store in stick, and Sculpting Contour, which is used to Covent Garden, combines brightening make features appear to recede. And Perricone with lifting benefits in one product, the MD introduced No Highlighter Highlighter, a Mini Miracle Eye Wand. Described as a serum that incorporates light-reflecting pigment remedy for bags and dark circles around pearls and vitamin C ester to deliver a bright and the eyes, the double-ended wand contains luminous complexion. a hydrating and lifting eye cream, designed Rodial picked up on the contouring trend in a big to be used as step one, with a formulation way last year, being one of the first brands to launch including hyaluronic acid, bio extract of a contouring make-up range, a capsule collection Salicornia to reduce loss of water, rice designed to make the technique easy to do at home. proteins and other skin care ingredients. With Daisy Lowe as the face of the range, which Step two, at the other end of the wand, is includes products such as Instaglam Highlighter and Illuminate Under-Eye Light Reflector, Eye Sculpt, the brand also launched a Contouring containing light-reflecting micro-particles, Bar at Harvey Nichols to give women a personalised fine-coated mother-of-pearl, polypeptides introduction to facial sculpting. and silky elastomers to conceal shadows Tom Ford Beauty (Estée Lauder) also muscled and pigmentation or highlight the arch of in on the trend with Contouring Cheek Colour the brow.

Retail watch: Selfridges Voted the Best Department Store in the World for launches. The Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk the third time, Selfridges prides itself on creating Foundation is among our bestsellers. Combined with extraordinary customer experiences. Cosmetics the new launches of Charlotte Tilbury’s Magic Business Markets speaks exclusively to Emily Foundation and Miracle Eye Wand and Illasmasqua’s Saunders, Selfridges Beauty Buyer, about its Radiance Veil, we can all achieve a fantastic subtle bestselling colour cosmetics brands and latest glow that is trending right now. make-up experiences in its Beauty Workshop Which campaigns and customer experiences have Which colour cosmetics products and brands worked well at Selfridges this year? have sold particularly well at Selfridges this year? As part of the Work It! Campaign we ran the Big We have just launched an exciting NYX pop-up on Beauty Lunchbreaks every Thursday afternoon, Selfridges.com and in the Selfridges Beauty offering 15-minute mini treatments such as Workshop. The Soft Matte Lip Cream is the top makeovers and manicures, which really created an seller, as it is a one of a kind product from the amazing atmosphere in-store and helped customers brand, offering a velvety finish without the dryness to reclaim their lunch break. We also collaborated of a traditional matte formula. with the pioneers of beauty subscription, Birchbox, to launch a unique interactive pop-up throughout What trends in make-up have really taken off this September. Customers were given a chance to build year with your brands? their own Birchbox with a selection of pick and mix Lightweight foundation formulas and luminous style products. This was extremely exciting, primers, which create that naturally glowing and successful and created buzz around the Selfridges flawless skin, is such a common factor in recent Beauty Workshop. Emily Saunders

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Perfectionist Youth-Infusing Brightening Serum + Concealer, from Estée Lauder, is another PR watch: Lipsticks seal most dual-ended 2-in-1 launch that provides radiance press coverage while reducing the appearance of dark circles around the eyes. The Serum incorporates the Phoebe Rilot, Client Coordinator at My Market brand’s exclusive CPR-75 Technology to help Insight, tells Cosmetics Business Markets which colour cosmetics products have secured the reduce the look of lines and wrinkles, plus most PR coverage so far in 2015 smoothing optics and liquid-light optics which brighten and a concealer to cover imperfections. Lip products seem to be having a moment, with Primers remain another important, fast three out of the top five most featured colour growing sub-sector of the face make-up market, cosmetic products (face, eyes, lips) in the UK experiencing sales of £38m last year according to press so far this year being lipsticks. This reflects Mintel, and Mealia believes that social media the return to bold colour over sheer washes of continues to play a key part in its success. gloss and balm, whether that be in a matte (Estée Explaining why, she says: “Primers have become a Lauder) or satin (YSL) finish. YSL and Estée staple product in the beauty industry. With the Lauder both have glossy advertising campaigns and famous celebrity models, which helps when vast majority of people today holding at least two securing press coverage: Cara Delevingne has or more social media accounts, we are constantly sparked some low-level controversy in the very bombarded with images of the perfect make-up. revealing advert for Rouge Pur Couture, while We all have very busy schedules and need our Joan Smalls (who was also involved in the make-up to last all day long and very often from creative direction of Lauder’s new matte Pure day to night. A primer will help achieve long Color Envy lipsticks) poses with Kendall Jenner lasting flawless make-up.” And new launches in the shots for Estée Lauder. ensure that primers go further to continue their MAC Lipstick consistently remains in the top long lasting success with consumers: Artdeco, for ranking cosmetic products year after year, and instance, introduced 3-in-1 Eye Primer, offering having had a sold-out launch of new matte lipstick shades in August, the brand closes the chart at correcting, concealing and long-wearing number five. Smashbox (Estée Lauder) has properties (see Product Spotlight on page 42). collaborated with HTC to release a Selfie Kit, containing a mascara, primer and cheek colour Weightless wonders designed to keep the user looking ‘selfie ready’, Meanwhile in foundations, a strong theme this with Alesha Dixon promoting it. Finally, at number year has been weightlessness – full coverage four is Lancôme’s new mascara, Volume-à-Porter, formulas that look natural and feel undetectable inspired by the undone glamour of Parisian on the skin. In February, NARS (Shiseido) women. While new innovations in the industry launched All Day Luminous Weightless abound, it is those that build off of timeless Foundation, which uses a Weightless Long-Wear classics (lipstick and mascara) which continue to score column inches. The latest foundations Technology to mimic natural skin, coated have welcomed the pigments that feel light on the skin and Even advance of weightless Tone Technology to instantly neutralise redness technology, creating a and dullness, while treated pigments move with texture that feels light the skin. Commenting on the launch, Founder ‘ UK: Top colour cosmetics launches on the skin and Director François Nars says: “It’s the first in the press time we’ve ever done a high-coverage foundation. We waited for the right moment, when true Product Value £ 2015 weightless innovation was finally available. It had to be comfortable, high-coverage, and Total 26,134,556 incredibly long lasting—the formula really had to 1 YSL Rouge Pur Couture Lipstick 358,589 be perfect. It’s high-performance, but still very 2 Estée Lauder Pure Color Envy 266,443 soft and natural.” Matte Sculpting Lipstick Weightless texture is also a feature of Charlotte 3 Smashbox Selfie Kit 213,957 Tilbury’s new Magic Foundation. The full coverage foundation is combined with anti-ageing benefits to 4 Lancôme Hypnôse Volume-à-porter 197,214 Mascara instantly cover and provide long term treatment of issues such as acne and acne scarring, redness and 5 MAC Lipstick 196,274 rosacea, deep wrinkles and age spots and dull, tired For more details contact Phoebe Rilot skin. The formulation includes mushroom extract email [email protected], Fomes officinalis to improve skin firmness, tighten tel +44 20 8831 7570 mymarketinsight.com pores and provide moisture, plus hyaluronic filling spheres to plump and smooth the skin and VC-IP, a form of vitamin C as well as SPF15. cells to improve hydration and tone, the oil-free Eve Lom’s new Sheer Radiance Oil Free and non-comedogenic formula also includes Foundation SPF 20 is also designed to actively mattifying rice powder to absorb excess oil and treat the complexion – specifically improving control shine. skin’s suppleness and tone – while delivering Rodial also introduced a new product that is featherweight coverage that leaves the complexion designed to give the illusion of ‘barely there’ looking flawless. Containing key antioxidant make-up: Skin Tint + is a medium coverage skin ingredient BerryFlux Vita from raspberry stem tint that contains a blend of amino-peptides to

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target multiple signs of ageing and offers a hydra- particularly mascaras – though there have been a UK: Colour fluid texture that blends into the skin, while few well received launches. These include Shiseido’s cosmetics, top brightening and enhancing skin tone. Full Lash Volume Mascara, which launched in five retailers* And Temple Spa’s Velvet Face Base powder August and features a patented new Full Expansion Boots foundation, Velvelutto, launched as part of the Brush that fans out the lashes without clumping, brand’s Red Carpet collection designed to offer making lashes look longer and thicker. Superdrug photo-finish results, is billed as ‘the final step in And Clinique introduced its new Chubby Lash Tesco your skin care regime’. The weightless and Fattening Mascara with an oversized brush that is Asda comfortable texture is said to glide onto the skin, said to turn faint lashes into bold, available in the concealing, smoothing and protecting the skin black shade Jumbo Jet as well as limited edition Sainsbury’s with ingredients including pomegranate fruit shades Portly Plum, Two Ton Teal, Massive *based on value sales. Source: Kantar extract to detoxify, brighten and lighten the skin, Midnight and Bodacious Black Honey. Worldpanel raspberry seed oil to retain moisture and salicylic Benefit (LVMH) updated cult favourite They’re acid to reduce redness and help heal blemishes. Real with a limited edition mascara embellished with Swarovski crystals on the cap. Bigger and bolder Over at Coty, Rimmel London launched its first While face make-up trends have been a dominant volumising mascara with a built in lash curler, force in the colour cosmetics market over the past 24hr Supercurler Volume and Curl Mascara. The year, brows remain a hot topic with what has been patent-pending formula features a polymer that is termed as the ‘Cara Delevingne effect’ continuing said to give a lasting ‘perm’ effect, providing to drive a surge in sales. Online beauty retailer volume that lasts for up to 24 hours. Feel Unique claims to seen a 250% increase in Autumn winter eye palette collections this year sales of eyebrow products over the past year, with have been dominated by smoky plum shades, bold eyebrow enhancing serums rocketing by over wines and berry colours, seen in Artdeco’s 200% as women opt for a bushy style of brow. And Mystical Forest collection, while ginger, gold and the new products continue to flow: Ciaté London blue – a key shade also in the spring/summer 2016 has just released Insta Brow, a range of applicator runway looks – were featured in the pens featuring a bristle brush with a lightweight autumn/winter collections at Aveda (Estée tinted gel formula to give semi-sheer colour to Lauder) and La Biosthetique. Gold also formed brows for a fuller looking, brushed-out effect. And the basis of RMK’s Urban Gold Collection for Smashbox has introduced the Brow Tech autumn/winter, inspired by the lights of New Collection, a range of pro tools including four York City and featuring a limited edition golden Matte Pencils, four Gloss Sticks and two Highlight illuminator. And Illamasqua introduced an Sticks that are water-resistant and long lasting. innovative liquid gold highlighter, Broken Gold, But with the face in full HD focus this year, eye as part of its new Equinox collection, which make-up launches have been a little quieter – launched last month.

Distributor watch: Chleo Enterprises and Artdeco Nicola Mealia, Managing Director of Chleo and he held various seminars over the two days plus Enterprises, talks to Cosmetics Business Markets did a stint on the Warpaint Stage. Myself and Richard, about its development of Artdeco in the UK since my brother and business partner, were both there taking over distribution of the German cosmetics with our team of make-up artists and our UK Area brand this summer Manager. The show was a massive success and we “Artdeco has been in the UK have opened many new doors as a market for a number of years but Artdeco result and we will continue to develop under a different distributor. Chleo the existing customers and look to Enterprises was asked by Artdeco recruit new ones. to take over the distribution of “We plan to grow the team over the Artdeco to Debenhams in the UK coming months and are really up for back in September 2014 but only the challenge. became appointed the official “The existing Artdeco accounts plus distributor for the whole of the UK the new ones we have recruited want from June this year. a good professional brand at a good Our first step was to try and price, good service and up to the understand what business was minute product training. We take the already here. We needed to reassure issue of training very seriously: well- customers that the brand was very trained staff are essential in this fast much alive and give them growing market. I myself am in the UK confidence in us. We are a family run business and regularly to support our Area Manager. We ran an have been the distributors for Artdeco (and some Intensive Artdeco Training course in October on the other leading professional brands) in Ireland for back of the Manchester show and we already have a nearly 30 years. We know what we are doing. bigger space booked for Professional Beauty London “We took a stand at the recent Professional Excel in February 2016. Beauty Show in Manchester and invited all our “I can only see the brand going from strength to customers to come and meet with us. We had strength. We have huge support from Artdeco and I Artdeco’s International Makeup Artist at the show know they believe in us.” Nicola Mealia

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Illamasqua’s liquid Lips may have been the weakest performing Naomi (tea pink) and Helen (nude pink). And highlighter, Broken category of the overall make-up market, No7 (Boots) has extended its Match Made Gold, can be used according to Kantar Worldpanel’s data, but in the Lipstick range with a new moisture drench over eyeshadow or prestige channel it is thriving. formulation to keep lips feeling soft and smooth, on its own for a with shades including Honey Bloom, Caramel shattered gold effect Lip luxury Silk and Tawny Rose. Its double digit growth has no doubt been partly Private label sales account for a sizeable 29% of fuelled by major recent launches including YSL’s the colour cosmetics market in the UK, and over (L’Oréal) Rouge Pur Couture Lipstick, fronted by the past year growth of 3.2% has been achieved. Cara Delevingne, a range of highly pigmented One of the stand-out successes of the past year was luxurious shades featuring hydro-spheres and the launch of Poundland’s budget cosmetics range, natural extracts to comfort lips through the day. The Make Up Gallery. Having launched in The lipstick can also be personalised by adding a October 2014 to glowing reviews from titles cola brown and a white shade to blend with the including Vogue and Cosmpolitan, the range became other shades to create a bespoke colour. so popular with consumers that extra product had Meanwhile, Estée Lauder teamed up with to be air freighted in during December. And in model Kendall Jenner to create a limited edition June 2015 the range was awarded Own Label Pure Color Envy Matte Sculpting Lipstick shade Brand of the Year at The Grocer Gold Awards. Jim called Restless, an orangey-red. Sister brand McCarthy, CEO at Poundland, says: “Sales have Clinique also brought out eight new shades to been outstanding since launch and the range has extend its Pop Lip Colour + Primer range, while been met with fantastic reviews across the board, also launching Quickliner for Lips Intense, a the most important being the reaction of our water resistant lip liner in six shades that is customers who love the quality, price and value.” designed to help reduce lipstick feathering and Back in the branded market, Artdeco has also bleeding. With a creamy glide-on feel, the liner is seen the benefits of offering competitively priced said to provide up to 12 hours’ wear. make-up. “I think UK consumers are looking for It has been a busy launch period for Lipstick a vast, current and reliable make-up brand that Queen too, introducing two new ranges in the past can deliver on quality and service. They want a two months. All That Jazz is a glamorous range of professional brand but at affordable prices,” says lipsticks that is said to leave a molten metal finish, Mealia. “They want their make-up routine to fit while nourishing lips with ingredients including in with their busy lifestyles to bring them from jojoba and Lady’s Thistle to comfort and prevent their work to the club.” moisture loss, and algomega which hydrates and Mealia also believes that in the UK consumers protects. There are four shades: Hot Piano, an “are not as loyal to brands and tend to be led by iconic red; Cool Gin, a pink-nude with gold pearls; product marketing and fashion – it’s always about Whoopee Spot, a purple hue with turquoise pearls the next best thing on the market.” And perhaps and Paint The Town, a deep red with fuschia pearls. this ultimately explains why the UK colour The second launch, Seven Deadly Sins, is a range of cosmetics market is thriving as well as it is – lightweight lip glosses with a serum-like texture. consumers snap up the newest launches to keep Incorporating black soybean extract, cranberry seed up with the latest trends. As Mealia says, “The extract, vitamin E, shea butter and meadowfoam market is fast moving and up to the minute in seed oil, the glosses provide lip conditioning and terms of the latest trends… and the make-up firming benefits and impart a silky feel. industry is an ever developing one, becoming And in the mass market, L’Oréal’s new more advanced all the time.” Collection Exclusive La Vie en Rose celebrated Contouring, strobing and baking may not 30 years of the brand’s Color Riche lipsticks by remain the most talked-about beauty looks for focusing on the biggest colour category, pink, long, but whatever make-up trends social media with five new shades. Each shade was inspired by serves up next will undoubtedly send ripples one of the brand’s spokespeople: Eva (peach pink), through the UK market, inspiring both brands Liya (grenadian pink), Blake (orangey pink), and consumers to be part of the next big thing.

According to Euromonitor International, the colour cosmetics market in Russia in 2014 Russia continued its dynamic development with growth of 4% and a value of 65 billion rubles (US$1.03bn). The market is close to saturation, Going say industry experts, as in previous years annual growth was slightly higher, at around 6%. The premium slowdown in the economy and fewer mass market 4% launches as in previous years have also contributed Value growth of Russia’s to a lower growth rate, while another factor is colour cosmetics market, consumers’ price sensitivity towards product. 2014 Russian Target Group Index research from Source: Euromonitor Synovate Comcon shows that the proportion of Michael Rotermund colour cosmetics consumers has grown over the past five years, as has the proportion of buyers of

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premium products, most of whom are located in Russia: Colour cosmetics, market In 2014, Russia’s big cities. There are 1.6 times more value, 2014 premium consumers of premium brands in cities than there “

are in medium and small cities with Dior Value (Rubles bn) %+/- colour cosmetics

(LVMH), Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent 65 4 grew by 9% (L’Oréal) among the market leaders, while compared with Source: Euromonitor International “ residents of cities with populations of one million a 3% increase are more likely to use mass brands, such as Art- Visage, Ninelle, Beautycycle and Divage. behind some of the sector’s most unusual colour for mass colour Indeed, Euromonitor data shows that in 2014, palettes. Its Exclusive range offers lipsticks, lip cosmetics premium colour cosmetics grew by 9% compared glosses and eyeshadows in shades that are not for with a 3% increase for mass. And while the the faint hearted – such as the Black Panther lip economic slowdown in 2014 has prompted gloss, lipsticks in the colour of the Tiffany brand or consumers to be more rational in their purchasing ‘submarine yellow’. The company also takes orders behaviour, Euromonitor notes that quality still for bespoke creations – however crazy. remains the most important factor in make-up consumers’ buying decisions. Consumers take Alphabet aspirations time to make their choices; they are more selective According to industry experts, BB, CC and DD and search for the best value for money, even if creams remain niche products in Russia, as most that means buying just one prestige product rather consumers prefer products that are singular, rather than several cheaper items. than multifunctional, in their action. Despite this, So which make-up categories are driving market domestic manufacturers have continued to launch growth? Face make-up registered the strongest new products in this category. One of the latest BB, CC and DD creams increase in value sales, up 5.4% to 12.83m rubles, novelties is DD Cream by Faberlic. This versatile are still a niche sector in but this is also the smallest sector of the three. Lip multi-purpose cream targets women over the age of Russia, but domestic products, the largest category at 24.44m rubles, 40, claiming to help reduce wrinkles and brands have launched grew by 3.5%, while eye make-up also registered a pigmentation and make the complexion more even, more of these products healthy increase of 4.4% to 21.85m rubles, smooth and radiant by applying eight drops to the over the past year according to Euromonitor. face. The product incorporates gardenia stem cells to help stimulate collagen synthesis and protect the Lashes of effects skin from loss of elasticity, while it is also formulated With 80% of Russian women using mascara in 2013 with SPF30 to protect against age spots. (source: Synovate Comcon) – higher than any other At the end of 2014 L’Adeleide launched a BB colour cosmetics product – it is important for cream with a matte effect and a soft, melting manufacturers to regularly launch new products and texture. Perfect Skin combines several functions in over the past year Russian manufacturers have one, serving as a foundation, sunscreen, concealer introduced mascaras offering different effects. and make-up base. The formula is said to provide a Bestselling brand Vivienne Sabo’s Cabaret complete skin treatment: hydration, nutrition and Premiere mascara, which claims to give stage- the prevention of the first signs of ageing. worthy volume to eyelashes, comes in classic black And this summer, another Russian manufacturer and bright trendy shades including Violette, Blue Michel Laboratory also introduced a BB cream and Marine. The company has recently improved under its Stopproblem brand. The 9-in-1 BB the formulation to make the texture more Cream is designed to treat and camouflage skin lightweight and leave lashes free from lumps. The imperfections, adapt to the natural skin tone and brand also launched eyeshadows in matching provide an instant soft focus effect. It is available in colours. Each palette is presented in two textures, a two shades, for light and dark skin. velvety powder effect Even if alphabet creams are not in a position to and a lighter effect with generate strong market growth, smart formats are a satin sheen. Vivienne likely to colour a large number of new products in Sabo also recently the future. And with the prestige channel registering released Joli Pastel, a the highest growth rates, it is clear that there is a new collection which demand for the highest quality colour cosmetics. includes gel varnish and Never has it been more important for launches to eyeliner in delicate offer innovations that wow the Russian consumer. pastel colours pale pink, mint and light blue. Based on an InterCHARM report (Reed Exhibitions And major Russian Russia) colour cosmetic manufacturer Art-Visage introduced Chicago Russia: Colour cosmetics, by category, 2014 Dramatic Volume which promises even Value* %+/- Units m %+/- distribution and clear Eye make-up 21,848.70 4.40 77.30 0.50 separation of the lashes, Face make-up 12,827.20 5.40 31.80 0.50 while lengthening and Lip products 24,442.90 3.60 87.10 -0.80 adding volume. Art- Visage is also the brand *Rubles (m). Source: Euromonitor International

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highlighted lipsticks and lip stains in the burgundy and wine colours seen on the autumn runway shows Global at Rebecca Minkoff and Anna Sui. Meanwhile, lipstick launches that offered more comfortable textures also generated sales growth in this round up category. An example is Estée Lauder’s Pure Color Envy Sculpting Lipstick that has a more lightweight feel on the lips than previous lipsticks, and sister brand Clinique’s Pop Lip Colour + Primer, launched earlier this year, which offers a weightless formula that keeps lips comfortable and moisturised for eight hours. Weightless formulas are also a key feature in the latest foundation launches: NARS (Shiseido), for example, launched All Day Luminous Weightless Prestige make-up brands have boomed over Foundation early this year in 20 shades, using the past year, with three of the world’s largest advanced flexible polymers to move with the skin and first-to-market treated pigments that are said colour cosmetics markets – the US, Japan and to deliver long-wearing coverage without masking China – all benefiting from premiumisation the skin, for a natural effect. Meanwhile, another source of innovation is new delivery formats. Estée US Lauder’s Double Wear Makeup To Go Liquid The $12.3bn US colour cosmetics market was Compact is a liquid foundation in a spill-proof looking bold and glossy in 2014, with eyebrow compact that features a button which releases the make-up and lipstick being the two best performing multi-action formula. Pressed once, the product categories. foundation gives a light touch; pressed twice it Strong brows – or the ‘power brow’ – became a allows for greater coverage. It also features a key beauty look in 2014 – and as the trend sunk its combination of skin care benefits. The Tri- roots into the market women invested in eyebrow Moisture Complex of hyaluronic acid, glycerin pencils, powders and waxes to give their brows and muru muru butter helps to lock-in moisture more definition. As a result, the ‘other make-up’ throughout the day, while argireline and milk category, in which these products fall, rocketed by thistle extract work to smooth the skin and 28%. The ageing of the US population has also minimise the appearance of lines and wrinkles. bulked up sales of brow products as eyebrows Another notable format includes Procter & become sparser in later life, while a number of Gamble’s CoverGirl + Olay The De-Puffer, a US retailers have helped to promote the importance of concealer with a metal-tip applicator designed to well-groomed brows. Beauty specialist retailer Ulta, massage the concealer onto the eye area, and Bare $12.3bn for example, introduced the Benefit Brow Bar to a Escentuals’ bareMinerals bareSkin Pure Value of US colour growing number of its stores, providing eyebrow Brightening Serum Foundation that features a cosmetics market, 2014 tweezing and waxing services as well as shelf space patent-pending Perfecting Face Brush that has a Source: Euromonitor International for the LVMH brand’s collection of eyebrow fluid reservoir to hold the foundation. products, some of which, including Gimme Brow American women are more willing to spend on volumising gel and Brow Zings brow shaping kit, premium brands in face make-up and lip cosmetics, have become cult favourites. than other make-up categories, and in the case of Light touch formulas face make-up this is because women will invest and new formats have And the trend has shown no sign of thinning out inspired new foundation in 2015 as innovations continued to grow. Benefit more by shopping at department stores or specialist launches, such as Estée launched its Brow Genie mobile tool, featuring retailers to have a beauty advisor help them find the Lauder’s Double Wear facial mapping technology which outlines the right right shade of foundation. Mineral make-up also Makeup To Go Liquid brow shape for the face in four steps, with a virtual remains popular in the US, with many women Compact aesthetician recommending products and making finding it less intimidating than liquid and cream suggestions to help achieve ‘on fleek’ brows. foundations, as it is mostly in powder format and Meanwhile, Bobbi Brown (Estée Lauder) offers more leeway in terms of shade matching. launched a new automatic brow pencil with Bellápierre Cosmetics, which claims to be one of a unique slant tip for precise definition as the fastest growing mineral make-up companies in part of its Long-Wear collection for Spring the world, is known for its original Mineral 2015. Perfectly Defined Long-Wear Foundation which can be used as a concealer and Brow Pencil promises 16-hour wear and is sweat and humidity US, Japan & China: Colour cosmetics resistant as well as markets, 2014 waterproof. Lipstick was the second Value %+/- $bn 2013-2014 slickest performer last year, registering an impressive US 12.3 1.0 value sales growth of 10% Japan 5.06 2.0 as dark lips – a popular lip China 3.3 9.0 look in the 1990s – made a Source: Euromonitor International comeback. Fashion editors

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setting powder as well as a foundation. This year Make-up is the brand updated its offer to respond to the trend the strongest for contouring, a professional make-up artist trick US: Prestige lip sales in the pink “ that was made famous last year when celebrity Kim Of the top 100 new shades on counter in 2014, performer within Kardashian shared her contouring skills on pink surpassed red as the leading colour the US prestige Instagram. Bellápierre’s All Over Face Contour and according to The NPD Group, bringing in 23% beauty market, Highlighting Kit includes three products: the more sales. Lip products have a greater premium penetration in the US and the category was key to exceeding skin Mineral Foundation, Mineral Highlight Powder the growth of the prestige make-up market in care and and Mineral Contour Powder to help create 2014. The lip segment grew by 6% in dollar sales,

defined cheekbones and a slimmer nose and chin. driven by lip colour products. In November 2014 fragrance,

And the brand’s latest launch brings the art of alone almost 1.8 million prestige lip colour both in bricks- contouring to the lips. Lip Contour & products were sold in the US, up 22% compared “ Highlighting Kit contains four products which with November 2013. and-mortar work to create the illusion of larger and fuller lips. The prestige colour cosmetics retail and online According to The NPD Group, the contouring category is in fact booming overall sales industry is still booming: in 2014 it was worth – make-up is the strongest $8.5m, while during the first eight months of 2015 performer within the US prestige beauty market, exceeding skin care it tripled in size, exceeding $29m. and fragrance, both in bricks-and- The US remains the world’s leading colour mortar retail and online sales. In cosmetics market and with growth of 1% overall it 2014 the prestige make-up market experienced another solid year in 2014. And with grew by 6% overall, and by 13% consumers continuing to invest strongly in prestige between January to June 2015 to make-up and current trends favouring everything sales of $3.1bn according to NPD. from strong, sculpted looks to nude and softly And interestingly, some of the fastest highlighted complexions, the market is well growth is being achieved by niche positioned to shine in the year ahead. and indie brands. Anastasia Cosmetics, IT Cosmetics and Too JAPAN Faced Cosmetics formed the top three fastest growing prestige beauty In recent years, Japanese consumers have been brands, based on dollar sales, trading down to cheaper cosmetics due to a period between January and June 2015. of ongoing deflation. However, in 2014 the positive economic outlook, large numbers of foreign tourists, a VAT increase and a strong performance from prestige brands combined to fuel growth in benefits, skin care products are offering complexion premium colour cosmetics. The result? Prestige perks such as added radiance and luminosity. And JAPAN make-up overtook mass colour cosmetics in terms of with the rising trend for a more natural look coming % sales growth, increasing by 2% compared with 1% to the fore over the past couple of years, some 2 Value growth of Japan’s in the mass market. consumers have reduced the amount of facial make- colour cosmetics Japan is the world’s second biggest colour up they use. The trend is, however, linked to living a market, 2014 cosmetics market, following the US, and it recorded healthy lifestyle which also includes a well-balanced Source: Euromonitor overall value growth of 2% in 2014 to reach sales of diet and taking exercise, and as an influence in the International ¥613bn ($5.06bn). Facial make-up was the fastest beauty market it has not been significant enough to growing category, thanks to the strong performance offset the positive performance of Japan’s make-up of BB and CC creams which grew by 5%. These category. Nevertheless, a marginal decline is International brands multifunctional hybrid products, which straddle skin forecast to 2019, when Euromonitor predicts the have been first to care and make-up, have become among the most market will be worth ¥602bn ($4.98bn). introduce CC creams in popular items in Japanese consumers’ make-up bags, Japan. A recent launch is Clinique’s CC Cream and although they may have been on the market for CHINA Compact (below) over five years, the BB phenomenon continues to An article in the NY Times earlier this year, ‘China’s thrive. Meanwhile, the strong performance of BB Love Affair with Irresistible Korean creams has also fuelled a positive increase in sales of TV’ highlighted how a Korean show powder make-up (up 2%), since powder is often called My Love from Another Star, used on top of these multipurpose creams. ignited a nationwide frenzy in China. CC creams have also hit the shelves, with the first The show – about a 400-year-old entrants being international players such as Clinique Harvard educated alien who falls in (Estée Lauder) and Rimmel (Coty) as well as small love with an arrogant actress – was manufacturers. In May 2014, for example, following not only streamed more than 2.5 the launch of Moisture Surge CC Cream, Clinique billion times in the first three months launched CC Cream Compact, designed to cover after its premier in December 2013, it skin imperfections and improve radiance while resulted in a worldwide sell out of offering moisturisation and long lasting UV YSL’s Rouge Pur Couture No.52 protection. However, despite the influx of (L’Oréal) lipstick after a rumour international launches, CC creams have not become spread that the coral-pink shade was commonplace yet as domestic manufacturers have worn by the main character. not started to offer these products. In China, “Korean Wave” mania But just as make-up products have boosted their including Kdramas such as My Love appeal by increasingly incorporating skin care from Another Star, generated robust

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last year, while one of the biggest international make-up brands in China, Lancôme (L’Oréal) has found success with Blanc Expert Cushion Compact. Launched earlier this year, the product, which contains brightening ingredient Symwhite while moisturising skin and offering buildable coverage, has become one of the brand’s bestsellers. Consumers have been trading up to products with higher unit prices in China, and this premiumisation trend was visible in 2014. Women with higher disposable incomes are willing to spend more on premium brands, and as a result, premium brands have expanded their distribution channels to penetrate into third- and fourth-tier cities and remote regions, resulting in stable sales growth in 2014. Lancôme, for example, opened stores in Jiaxing province in 2013 and owns over 169 shops in more than 80 cities all over China. The brand also Korean Wave growth in lipsticks in 2014, as well as lip gloss, BB has an effective digital strategy and was awarded mania generated cream and CC cream as Chinese women imitated number one digital status out of 84 global and local “ the make-up looks seen on TV. Consumption beauty brands in Digital IQ Index’s China Beauty robust growth in drastically increased, leading China’s colour report in 2014. Indeed, the L’Oréal Group remains lipsticks in 2014, cosmetics category to register a growth rate of 9%, the leading company in China’s colour cosmetics as well as lip bringing total value to RMB21bn ($3.3bn). market overall, with a value share of 32%. Another factor which helped to fuel growth was the China has the fourth biggest colour cosmetics

gloss, BB cream increasingly busier lifestyles of Chinese consumers market in the world and the highest growth rate in

and CC cream as leading to demand for make-up products which the top four, and its success looks set to continue. offer a refreshed look, such as mascara. The category is expected to record a CAGR of 9% Chinese women“ imitated the CC and BB creams were particularly successful in in value sales to reach RMB33bn in 2019. 2014 due to their multifunctional properties, acting make-up looks as concealers, moisturisers and sun protection Data and analysis for the global round up courtesy of seen on TV products in one package. Forming the lion’s share Euromonitor International www.euromonitor.com of products in the ‘other facial make-up’ category, this increased by a dramatic 14%, making it the fastest growing market sector. The share of CC China: Opportunities await cream increased further than that of BB cream due savvy make-up brands the former’s small base and aggressive marketing by leading players such as AmorePacific Cosmetics, Competition in China’s make-up market is intensifying. Kantar Worldpanel China data reveals L’Oréal and Carslan Group. However, the majority that 253 new brands entered the colour cosmetics share was taken by BB creams, and these continued market in 2014, compared to 70 new brands in the to be the focus of leading players in this category previous year. Domestic brands are flourishing and specifically represented by Korean companies, and Chinese brands account for 72% of market again including AmorePacific with brands growth with much of the growth coming from including Sulwhasoo, Laneige, IOPE, Etude House lower tier cities. In fact, more than three quarters and Hera as well as the namesake AmorePacific of Chinese brands’ growth came from third- to brand; LG Household & Health Care International fifth-tier cities. Trading (su:m, Cathy Cat, Isa Knox) and Beijing “Make-up is still a developing category in ABLE C&C (Missha). China,” says Kantar Worldpanel. “In the 12 months up to the first quarter of 2015, only 43 out Female consumers aged between 15-25 are the of 100 Chinese urban families purchased on biggest consumers of BB and CC cream as they are average 2.7 items of make-up products in a year. perceived as fulfilling their skin needs in one go, The numbers are almost unchanged compared to while also offering a more natural look. Meanwhile, two years ago. This shows great potential women aged over 25 favour foundation and compared to the other mature markets – 61% in concealer products as they offer fuller coverage. France and 85% in Korea in terms of penetration. One of the biggest recent success stories is Increasing buyer base is the key to further drive AmorePacific’s foundation cream powders, make-up market growth.” including the phenomenal success of Laneige’s BB Make-up products that offer skin care benefits Cushion – 1.15m units of the product were sold in such as hydrating and whitening – in the way that China in 2014 – and IOPE’s cushion compacts BB and CC creams have done – continue to offer further opportunities for brands, as do innovative CHINA which helped to rocket the label to the ninth and exciting user-centric formats such as cushion 9% biggest make-up brand in the first quarter of 2015. compacts and effective digital marketing The company also frequently launches new cushion strategies. One example is L’Oréal Paris’ Makeup Value growth of China’s products – seven were launched by AmorePacific in colour cosmetics market, Genius smartphone app, which launched last year 2014 2014 alone. with the aim of enriching consumers’ shopping Source: Euromonitor The success of cushion compacts in China experiences by showing make-up looks via International inspired local brand Carslan to launch Perfect augmented reality technology. Cushion Snail Extract Color Control Cream

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Mexico Losing its gloss

Until 2014, Mexico was one of the global colour cosmetics markets’ bright spots, charting six years of strong growth. So why is it slowing down? Reporting from Mexico City, Elizabeth Machuca finds out

Mexico has a strong colour cosmetics segment, with sales continuing to grow, despite a falling Mexican Peso (MXN) making imports of products and ingredients more expensive. Colour cosmetics remains one of the most dynamic categories of the personal care business in Mexico, with value growth (in Mexican Pesos) of 1.4% in 2014, according to figures provided by market intelligence group Mintel. Colour cosmetics sales totalled MXN15.76bn (US$939.1m), up from MXN15.55bn ($926.6m) the previous year. Yet the growth is relatively modest compared with the market’s recent history. Indeed, it experienced no less than six consecutive years of strong growth: 4.8% in 2008; 4.8% in 2009; 5.5% in 2010; 5.2% in 2011; 5.3% in 2012 and 7.5% in 2013. According to the Chamber and Association of the Industry of Personal Care and Home Care (Cámara Nacional de la Industria de Productos Cosméticos, or CANIPEC): “Colour cosmetics worth $15bn dollars in 2014, of which personal New Mexican taxes on have registered a steady growth despite the care products of all kinds (including electric certain foods and financial instability, due to the ‘lipstick effect’,” razors) accounted for $10.5bn. beverages have left notes spokesperson Giselle Segovia. “This means However, during 2014, the consumption of fast consumers with less that, even when consumers reduce their moving goods “witnessed a certain deceleration due money to spend on make-up products expenses, they still regard colour cosmetics as to consumers limiting their spending on a number one of the ‘luxuries’ they can afford and still of markets, including beauty and personal care, as a show off, so to speak.” result of new taxes on some food and beverages”, And Mexico’s personal care product industry according to a June 2015 Euromonitor report on overall is large – the country has a population of Mexico’s beauty and personal care industry. 122 million and had a GDP per head of $10,300 CANIPEC, which represents nearly 70 national in 2013, according to the World Bank. According and international personal care-related companies, to figures from market intelligence company confirms that a new Mexican tax law, the Ley del Euromonitor International and CANIPEC, the Impuesto Especial Sobre Producción y Servicios country’s personal and home care market was (IEPS – law of special tax on production and services), which came into effect in December 2013, has boosted the prices of artificially flavoured beverages and the high-calorie food Mexico: Colour cosmetics market, market by roughly 5%, leaving consumers with value, 2013-2014 less money for non-essentials such as personal 1.4% MXN (bn) US$bn care products. Value growth of Mexico’s colour 2014 15.76 939.1 “Mexican consumers tend to spend more on cosmetics market, 2014 2013 15.55 926.6 [food and drinks] and this has caused them to Source: Mintel switch cosmetic brands in order to find cheaper Source: Euromonitor International products and formats,” explains Segovia.

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Colour cosmetics is the third largest C&T Colour Mexico: Top 10 colour cosmetics cosmetics have category, according to Euromonitor research from companies, 2014 “ 2014, placing it at a retail value of $1.22bn in registered a 2014, behind skin care ($2.8bn) and hair care steady growth ($2.02bn) but just ahead of fragrances ($1.13bn).

despite the The top products include eye make-up and

financial ‘multifunctional’ creams, while nail polishes are “ also popular. instability, due to the lipstick Highlighting the benefits effect So which colour cosmetics products have Giselle Segovia, Mexicans been continuing to buy? According to spokesperson, Mintel, facial make-up, which includes CANIPEC foundation, concealer and blush, was the bestselling category with MXN7.2bn ($428.8m) in sales in 2014. Eyeshadow, eyeliner and mascara accounted for MXN4.6bn ($274m) in the same year, whereas lip products registered sales of Avon Products Inc 10.3% MXN2.58bn ($153.7m). Nail products registered Vorwerk & Co KG (JAFRA brand) 9.8% the lowest sales among colour cosmetics with Mary Kay 9.3% MXN1.37bn ($81.6m). L'Oréal Group 8.4% One key recent make-up trend has been for Procter & Gamble México S de RL de CV 5.0% consumers to highlight facial features such as the Belcorp 4.7% cheekbones through contouring products. Fuller Cosmetics SA de CV 4.6% However, CANIPEC has also detected a growing Genomma Lab Internacional SAB de CV 4.2% trend towards the consumption of products that Estée Lauder Companies Inc 4.2% offer a more “natural and fresh look”, says Arabela SA de CV 4.1% Segovia. “There is a tendency towards the natural Others 35.4% look and this has increased the sales of organic products. This is one of the fastest growing trends Source: Mintel we have detected,” she says. Multifunctional cosmetics are especially popular in Mexico, with lip gloss and make-up bases L’Oréal Paris’ Nude Magique BB Cream Bare containing sunscreen and moisturisers as Mexican Skin Beautifier in Light Skin Tone, and Lumi women like products that combine practicality and Magique Light Infusing Liquid Foundation in beauty, according to Segovia. “These types of shade N1 Pure Pearl. products have been very popular among Eye make-up has become much more colourful consumers. We haven’t spotted what we could call too, says Teresa Torres, an independent beautician ‘the item of the year’; however, demand for these based in Tlalpan, Mexico City. She tells [multifunctional] creams started to increase within Cosmetics Business Markets: “The smoky eyes the last 12 months like never before,” she adds. look was very popular, but now customers are Euromonitor also reports that moisturising and willing to experiment a little bit more. They want silky textures have been popular within the their eyes to stand out, with loads of eyeliner and Mexican market. Examples include Avon’s True eyeshadows in a wide variety of colours such as Color Eyeshadows and Ideal Face BB Cream and electric blue, purple, dark orange and pink.”

Retail watch: Sephora LVMH-owned Sephora has approximately 1,900 the make-up bases now have components that can perfume and cosmetics stores in 29 countries be diluted in water and make you look like you are worldwide. It opened its first store in Mexico in not wearing any make-up at all. Other products that October 2011 and currently has a total of 11. are competing in sales are those that give matte Daniela Alejandre, Customer Services looks, as well as moisturising products. At this Representative at Sephora, located in the Centro store, the sales have focused on the former. Coyoacán Shopping Centre in Mexico City, talks to Cosmetics Business Markets What kind of products, apart from make-up bases and contouring kits, have sold well? Which have been the biggest make-up trends Lipsticks. Once customers have the perfect canvas this year? on the skin you can add stronger colours. Colours This year’s big trend has definitely been contouring such as fuchsia, intense pinks, red-orange and – highlighting the features of the face. However, grape-like purple are becoming very popular. during the last months the focus has moved towards Eyeliners are now selling in uncommon colours like the eyebrows and even the lips. What is also a purple, green, blue and grey. In previous years strong feature are products that make the skin look everyone was looking for brown and beige eye healthy and natural. The BB and CC creams from shadows, which can look really good – but they some years ago are already being replaced because can also be boring.

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Silvia Galván, owner of the Silvia Galván Image Studio chain, tells Cosmetics Business Markets that eyebrow make-up is particularly popular in Mexico. She launched her first beauty studio in 1985 in Monterrey, northern Mexico, and now has six branches across Mexico City. “Clients want to look good without having to spend hours in front of the mirror so we’re trying to offer them alternatives that make them look natural but smart at the same time,” she explains. “With the eyebrow design, we can create shape to the face and then apply the ideal type of make-up.”

Variety show As well as trends, the market has been undoubtedly helped by an increase in the availability and variety of colour cosmetics brands and products, a development which Euromonitor notes occurred in 2014. Galván adds: “Before, we lacked variety in the market. Some years ago you plans of the government to make 250,000 public Silvia Galván (above) were not able to purchase good mascaras in places have internet access during its term of Owner of the Silvia Mexico, but now more companies have office until 2018. So far, 65,000 have been Galván Image Studio introduced new products. Mascaras from installed in schools, hospitals, parks and historical chain, says that Lancôme (L’Oréal) are now available in the sites. As a result, many companies have begun eyebrow make-up has taken off in Mexico. market and are of good quality.” focusing their efforts on digital advertising, Below: mascaras on Meanwhile, with Mexico being a wealthier especially through social media, according sale in Mexico City, also emerging market, one sales channel that has to Euromonitor. pictured, right become increasingly important is e-commerce. “Beauty and personal care manufacturers aware During the past few years, more and more of this trend are also increasingly using online consumers in Mexico have gained internet access, marketing campaigns to support brand growth notably because of a new prerogative for Mexicans and awareness. During 2014, there was increasing to have access to broadband under reforms made attention by leading brands to keep active to Article 6 of the Mexican Constitution, and the Facebook fan pages, dynamic Twitter accounts and informative YouTube channels,” says Euromonitor.

Channelling cosmetics Retail watch: El Palacio de Hierro Retail stores remain the biggest sellers of El Palacio de Hierro is an upscale chain of cosmetics, taking 63.9% of sales, whereas the department stores in Mexico. Cosmetics direct sales channel, which includes companies Business Markets speaks to Customer Service such as Avon Products Inc, Fuller Cosmetics, Representative Gabriela Ramirez about its bestselling make-up products JAFRA Cosmetics and Mary Kay, accounted for 36.1%, according to figures from Mexican What types of make-up products are development bank Bancomext (Banco Nacional customers looking for? de Comercio Exterior). I think that our clients want long lasting products Figures from CANIPEC show that, within the that make them look natural. Concealer is among companies it represents, the greatest 2014 sales our customers’ favourite make-up products, as were in retail stores (38%), followed by suppliers well as everything that can cover pores and (19%), direct sales (18%), selective sales (12%), imperfections. and factories (12%). Meanwhile, Mexico is starting to develop a What other products are bestsellers at El Palacio de Hierro? significant male grooming market, which grew Eyeliners. The ones that have entered the 36% in the country between 2008 and 2014 and market recently have a gel-type texture –they are easier to use, they don’t fade and are waterproof. Lip tints have also been selling well. These are 2-in-1 liquid products that can be used on lips and cheeks and contain long lasting pigments. The colour is also buildable so the client can create the intensity that they want. The most popular colour is red, along with orchid pink and coral.

What eyeshadow colours are your clients looking for? Purple and mauve. All of our clients are different but many of them prefer a discreet look.

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Avon is confident it can weather emerging market cycles in Mexico, noting it knows how to play market shifts to its advantage: “particularly in some of the larger beauty markets, including Brazil, Russia and Mexico,” it stated in its 2014 annual report. However, the company acknowledged that Mexico has experienced a decline in revenue growth in the past year. Meanwhile, Euromonitor does not foresee a good outlook for the Mexican personal care product industry compared to other nations in Latin America. In June last year, the company’s Senior Research Analyst for Latin America, Bethany Gomez, said that Mexican sales of personal care products including cosmetics for the period 2013-2018 would register growth of 4.6% only for the whole period, whereas other Latin American countries such as Brazil, Bolivia, Peru, Guatemala and Venezuela would overtake it with respective growths of 9.3%, 8.8%, 7.5%, and 7.4%. Regarding the colour cosmetics segment specifically, Mintel forecasts that annual growth rates will be of around 1.2% from the period 2015-2019, less than a quarter of the increase reached in previous years. CANIPEC’S Segovia adds: “Our predictions for 2015 are conservative due to the international financial crisis, the impact of external recession on the Mexican Stock Exchange and the continuously rising currency price, which is now over MXN17 per US$.” This is in contrast with MXN12 in early 2013, making imports more expensive, and increasing the cost of foreign-made personal care products. Hence, CANIPEC’s colour cosmetics market growth prediction for 2015 has been restricted to a flat 0.5%. Another persistent problem facing Mexico’s colour cosmetics industry and market is smuggled and counterfeit goods, which according to figures from CANIPEC makes up around 5% of sales in the country. These are products sold in the streets by what the government calls ‘ambulant sellers’. Mexico: Colour As for production, however, a weakening cosmetics currency of course can help, given that Mexico market, value exports much of its locally-made personal care growth, products – in 2014 it exported $3.8bn worth of 2008-2014 is still growing; in 2010, this segment accounted personal care products (including skin products, Year %+/- for $700m sales, while in 2014 it rose to $900m, hair care and fragrances) exports compared to 2008 4.8 according to Euromonitor, which highlighted $1.9bn worth of imports, leaving a balance of this category as a fast growing area with great payments surplus of $1.9 million, according to a 2009 4.8 potential for further growth. According to CANIPEC en Números (CANIPEC in numbers) 2010 5.5 Christian Pazos, a make-up artist from Mexico report from the industry association. For this 2011 5.2 City, men are now using foundation and reason, Mexico hopes to become the world’s fifth concealer to erase face imperfections and reduce largest exporter of personal care products by 2020, 2012 5.3 the appearance of oily skin in the country’s says CANIPEC’s Director Carlos Berzunza. 2013 7.5 warm climate. Mexico’s colour cosmetics market is certainly 2014 1.4 experiencing some tough challenges. The solid Source: Mintel A cloudy forecast growth it has experienced remarkably consistently However, the financial crisis in Mexico has in recent years has started to flake away amid the certainly created difficulties for many of the country’s troubled economy. But some optimism country’s leading colour cosmetics companies. can be taken from the fact that, despite its Most of the top five experienced a drop in sales problems, the colour cosmetics market did during the last year in the range of 1.3% loss manage to record value growth last year. Maybe (market leader Avon Products Inc) to 0.1% the lipstick effect that helped Mexico’s make-up (L’Oréal Group). Procter & Gamble, however, market in 2014 can help to brighten the outlook reported steady sales numbers. in the years ahead too.

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throughout the day; and on the lips it raspberry stem cells works to improve PRIMED smoothes lines, neutralises colour and hydration. The formula also includes rice extends the lasting power and colour powder to absorb excess oil and broad impact of lipstick. PRICE £23.50 spectrum SPF15 to protect against UVA AND and UVB rays. 3 YSL Beauté (L’Oréal) has introduced PRICE £42 READY two new heroes in the primer world this Primers have evolved. Worn beneath year, with both attracting glowing reviews. 5 Benefit (LVMH) Air Patrol BB Cream Touche Éclat Blur Primer is the brand’s first Eyelid Primer is a quirky multi-purpose make-up, they have come out on top as light infused primer, using flat golden click pen that primes and colour corrects sales continue to strengthen and the pigments and soft focus gel to blur eyelids and the surrounding eye area, latest innovations promise to perfect imperfections and warm the complexion. disguising redness and blue veins. But this every part of the face The gel-fluid texture helps to leave the skin primer also has another trick – it contains feeling moisturised and prepped for EnviroDefend Complex with SPF20 and foundation application, creating a refined shea extract to help protect delicate eyelid 1 Illamasqua has developed a hybrid appearance. Touche Éclat Blur Perfector is skin from UV, smoke and pollutants. The base that is part primer, part illuminator to an innovative patented balm-powder blur applicator features a patent-pending give the skin a radiant glow. Radiance Veil, that is worn under make-up to leave pores CushionCalm tip made from foam gel used which launched in September, has a less visible and the complexion more in mattress technology to feel gentle on pearlescent gel formula with vitamin E uniform. Versatile in its use, it can be sensitive eyelids and comes in an eye- providing a moisturising benefit while fine applied as a complexion perfector or to catching winged case. shimmer particles add a luminous effect to touch-up make-up during the day. PRICE £21.50 the skin. The formula also contains a PRICE £29.50 (Primer); £31.50 vitamin C derivative from the flowering herb (Perfector) 6 Artdeco set its sights on creating the Acmella oleracea to provide a smoothing ideal base for long lasting eye make-up as effect and improve the skin’s brightness 4 Eve Lom Perfect Matte Primer is one of the star products in the brand’s new and elasticity over prolonged use. designed for women who want a shine-free Art Couture Collection. The result is the Radiance Veil gives a soft peach golden finish. The skin-refining primer is boosted multi-tasking 3 in 1 Eye Primer, a light and tone to skin, enabling it to be worn on its by a number of active ingredients that work creamy textured primer that preps the eyes own without make-up. to correct imperfections. An aromatic resin for make-up, covering any redness, small PRICE £32 derived from an evergreen shrub helps to visible veins or imperfections and leaving a visibly refine pores; niacinamide helps to smooth, even and matt finish to eyelids. It 2 Dior (LVMH) Fix It is a new addition to brighten skin; extracts of black willow and incorporates finely pored silica and vitamin the brand’s Backstage Pros range inspired hazel promote clear skin; Swiss alpine E to protect the eye area, and is available in by professional make-up artists. Acting as flower helps to control excess sebum two shades, cool and warm. a primer and concealer for the complexion, production; and BerryFlux Vita from PRICE £11.60 eyes and lips, Fix It is presented in a stick format and features a dual texture with a centre enriched with a soft focus powder to help refine and blur skin texture, and an outer tinted formula that camouflages colour irregularities. Used on the complexion, the product helps to correct pigmentation spots 5 and redness; on the eyes it 2 acts as a corrector for dark rings and make-up imperfections that appear

3 4 1

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A world of inspiration

CPL Aromas