OFC CBM 1115 cover_Passed_Layout 1 02/11/2015 15:36 Page 1 Copyright © 2015 HPCi Media. This publication may not be distributed without prior permission. cosmeticsbusiness.com Market report Special focus Profiles twitter.com/cb_beautynews Prestige brands drive global Economic instability slows Chantecaille Beauté page 3 November 2015 Year 32 issue11 colour cosmetics growth Mexico’s make-up sector Glossybox page 6 UK and Germany boom by 5% page 38 page 10 MARKETS COLOUR COSMETICS Premium prowess IFC CBM 1115 contents_Passed_NEW_Layout 1 03/11/2015 09:38 Page 2 Copyright © 2015 HPCi Media. This publication may not be distributed without prior permission. MARKETS Year32 issue 11 November 2015 THE COLOUR COSMETICS ISSUE Cosmetics Business Markets Company profile Retail profile HPCi Media Limited Chantecaille Beauté 3-4 Glossybox 6-7 The Tanneries Natraj Building US luxury cosmetics brand The beauty box subscription 55 Bermondsey Street London SE1 3XG Chantecaille is an increasingly company is aiming to become www.cosmeticsbusiness.com global operation. How does it the most important source for tel +44 20 7193 6862 remain true to its roots? beauty discoveries worldwide fax +44 20 3318 5305 email [email protected] Editor MARKET REPORT Jo Allen Summary 10-11 Reporter Report highlights, top 5 brands by country, usage data and key trends Rachel Lawler France 12-17 German Correspondent Prestige brands became the darling of the French make-up market once again as Annemarie Kruse w Italian Correspondent sales rose by 2%, stated NPD. Overall, the market remained stable at 864m Kathleen Armstrong Germany 17-22 Spanish Correspondent One of the fastest growing colour cosmetics markets covered in this report, Simeon Goldstein Germany grew by 5.5% in 2014 according to IKW, to a total of w1.52bn Sub-Editor Italy 22-26 Austyn King Colour cosmetics is one of Italy’s stronger C&T categories. Cosmetica Italia Art Editor w Sibylla Duffy reported a total value of 1.02bn in 2014, with facial make-up as the star performer Sales Director Spain 26-27 Adrian Goldfinch Results were looking rosy in Spain. Value sales grew by 2% to w384.4m, noted IRI Subscriptions UK 28-33 Julie Wilson The UK colour cosmetics market regained its glow in 2014-2015 as prestige make- Editorial Director up boomed. According to Kantar Worldpanel, total sales grew by 5.1% to £690.1m Erika Hatva Managing Director Russia 33-34 Colin Bailey-Wood Russia’s market rose by 4% to 65bn rubles, according to Euromonitor, as consumers increasingly bought into premium make-up brands Editorial Global round up 35-37 +44 1992 303 259 Coverage of the US, the world’s largest make-up market, plus Japan and China [email protected] Advertising +44 20 7193 6862 [email protected] Special focus Product spotlight Subscriptions Mexico 38-41 42 +44 20 7193 1279 Against a backdrop of financial Sales of primers continue to Each year Cosmetics Business [email protected] instability, how has Mexico’s flourish. These latest launches Markets publishes a market report on the following product categories: Subscriptions colour cosmetics market fared reveal why Cosmetics Business subscription over the past year? January Bathroom includes Cosmetics Business News products and Cosmetics Business Markets (plus subscriber access to February Facial skin care cosmeticsbusiness.com). Full details March Men’s lines on subscriptions can be found at April Sun care www.hpcimedia.com or email May Women’s [email protected] fragrances June Body care July Deodorants © HPCi Media Limited The paper used in this magazine is August Hair care obtained from manufacturers who operate September Aesthetics within internationally recognised standards. October Spa products The paper is sourced from sustainable, properly managed forestation. November Colour cosmetics Printed by ColourfastWorld Limited, London December Hands & nails ISSN 0957-1515 003 CBM 1115 company profile_Passed_Layout 1 02/11/2015 14:09 Page 3 Copyright © 2015 HPCi Media. This publication may not be distributed without prior permission. CHANTECAILLE COMPANY PROFILE CHANTECAILLE SHADES OF MEANING Chantecaille Beauté is a family-run company operating on a global scale. Rachel Lawler speaks to brand Founder Sylvie Chantecaille about how the company remains true to its roots Chantecaille Beauté has always been a family- beautiful pieces all the time. I learned to run brand. But rather than taking a step back as appreciate fine art and the beauty of it at a young the brand gets bigger, the Chantecaille family age.” The attention to detail in each Chantecaille remains at the core of the business. Founder Beauté product is clear. From its famous palettes Sylvie Chantecaille is still at the head of the US- to its bestselling lip glosses – everything is based company, while her husband Olivier serves designed with care. as Chief Financial Officer. The couple’s three children Olivia, Alex and Phillipe act as Creative Budding developments Director, Vice President of Sales and Promotions Art aside, Chantecaille’s next biggest inspiration and Director of Media Productions respectively. for the cosmetics range was flowers. “My mother With products stocked worldwide in premium had a rose garden and I had fresh roses in my retail stores such as Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys, room every week,” she says. Her love of flowers, Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, Harrods, Harvey and particularly roses, is clearly manifested in the Nichols and Space NK, it’s a far cry from a brand. All Chantecaille skin care products make kitchen table top affair. Yet that hasn’t stopped this use of Rose de Mai. Pure Rosewater was the first brand from remaining true to its heart. “I’m so skin care product launched by the brand and proud of all our products,” says Sylvie remains one of its key ingredients, listed in every Chantecaille. Her company produces a select but product from mascara to lipstick. meticulously developed range of cosmetics, The brand initially launched as a fragrance fragrance and skin care products. Her dream of company but soon expanded into skin care and creating a “well-researched” range that meets the cosmetics. “Within a year and a half, I realised “needs and wants of modern women” is still very that my passion for great skin care, natural much key to Chantecaille Beauté. products, Chinese medicine and aromatherapy Chantecaille has enjoyed a long career in was bursting to be created into a line of beauty,” cosmetics. In 1979 she created Prescriptives at Chantecaille says. The brand’s first cosmetics Estée Lauder. Lauder had been impressed by the product was Future Skin – an oil-free foundation line of products Chantecaille had previously with a uniquely lightweight formula. A translucent created with her then business partner, Diane von compact and tinted moisturiser followed Furstenberg. The pair had sold a popular line of shortly afterwards. colour cosmetics in the US and were approached Future Skin was a stand-out product at the time, by Lauder shortly after its launch. giving users a more natural look compared to Prescriptives was the first make-up brand to traditional foundation formulas. Its formula is offer custom-blended make-up to consumers. buildable for medium to full coverage and Chantecaille helped to make the first foundation includes light-reflecting pigments to give the colour wheel. The launch introduced the idea of “glow” Chantecaille’s former colleague Estée Sylvie Chantecaille cool and warm skin tones to the market and Lauder was always looking to create. The formula founded the brand in demonstrated a clear move away from traditional transfers water onto the skin, treating any dryness 1997. Its oil-free marketing with its scientific claims and while still being suitable for oily complexions. foundation, Future Skin, informative advertising. The product continues to be a favourite with remains one of the Chantecaille Beauté was created in 1997 when consumers today. brand’s hero products Chantecaille left Prescriptives. She says: “I wanted Chantecaille Beauté products are now available to create a company that focused on the most in 11 countries worldwide. The brand’s top luxurious products sourced with the purest, most markets include the US, Australia, the UK and natural ingredients.” Much like Prescriptives, Chantecaille also wanted the brand to inform its Fact file: Chantecaille customers about skin care. She adds: “Above all, it had to be scientifically advanced and support Founded 1997 women’s health.” Address 584 Broadway, New York, 10012-3229, US Chantecaille’s personal experiences are etched Website chantecaille.com into each and every product. She says: “As a young Contact telephone +1 212 343 3614 girl I was constantly surrounded by art and beauty. My family collected art and I was exposed to November 2015 CBM 3 003 CBM 1115 company profile_Passed_Layout 1 02/11/2015 14:09 Page 4 Copyright © 2015 HPCi Media. This publication may not be distributed without prior permission. COMPANY PROFILE CHANTECAILLE Asia. At the start of this year, Chantecaille Beauté I wanted to create a company launched in the UAE – the brand’s range is now that focused on the most luxurious“ stocked in Dubai’s Bloomingdale’s. “ The brand is also currently expanding in Asia. products sourced with the purest, “I am very excited about the design of our new most natural ingredients free standing store in Hong Kong,” Chantecaille Sylvie Chantecaille, Founder, Chantecaille says. The store is due to open in Causeway in January 2016. She adds: “We are designing it with Patrick Naggar and it will be a blend of Paris and New York. There will be a very chic Parisian Chantecaille says: “Our customers are very sitting room, separate luxurious spa rooms and intelligent women with the power to make a a gallery of videos raising awareness for difference. We strengthen our commitment to various causes.” causes each season with the launch of limited Like all premium brands, Chantecaille Beauté is edition philanthropic palettes that raise awareness careful about online sales.