Alpine Italy Where the landscapes of northern Italy rise towards its dramatic mountain borders, the wines come with as many accents and cultural influences as the local communities. Simon Reilly takes us on a tour of the regions, and recommends 15 fascinating wines

WHEN MOST PEOPLE think of the Alps, wine is In Alto Adige, cooperatives such as Cantina not the first thing that springs to mind – Terlano and Cantina Andrian produce a wide après-ski aside. But wine lovers whose Italian range of quality wines at every price point. cellars stop at the rolling hills of Langhe or Entry-level wines like Cantina Andrian’s Tuscany are missing out on some fascinating Vernatsch red and Pinot Bianco are precise wines. There are delicious wines to be found and food-friendly, offering great value. At the from Valle d’Aosta (Italy’s smallest wine- top end, Cantina Terlano’s top crus are growing region) in the west, travelling world-class, complex wines, aged in and through Alto Piemonte and Valtellina, to Alto then held in bottle for 10 or more years before Adige in the east. being released when deemed ready to drink. The expanse of Italy’s Alpine region, and In Alto Piemonte, a group of producers from the merging of cultures created by its Biella has formed the Associazione Vignaioli mountain borders with France, Switzerland Colline Biellesi. The passionate spokesman for and Austria, results in a great diversity of wine this group is Luca De Marchi of Proprietà styles. Yet the dramatic landscape they share Sperino (son of owner Paolo, who also owns brings similarities too. Italy’s best Alpine Isole e Olena in Tuscany). He says: ‘If only one wines all offer freshness, minerality, acidity person makes good wine, it only benefits one. and complexity in abundance. If we all make good wine, it becomes a good area and that is better for everyone.’ Working together The logistical challenges the Alpine conditions Nebbiolo’s various guises create seem to bring the winemakers together. Nebbiolo is well represented in the Alps, but is Across the region, cooperatives feature strongly. chameleon-like, known as Spanna in Alto Rather than the stereotypical idea of co-ops Piemonte, Chiavennasca in Valtellina and selling the local mouthwash by the litre, these Picotendro in Valle d’Aosta. are producing serious, high-quality wines. Sitting in the shadow of Monte Rosa, the Cantina Produttori Nebbiolo di Carema is second highest mountain in the Alps, to the one of only two producers in the small Carema west and north of Milan, the Gattinara DOCG DOC on the border of Alto Piemonte and Valle in Alto Piemonte is the birthplace of Spanna, d’Aosta. It produces only two Nebbiolos, a an ancient clone of Nebbiolo. Elring and black-label Classico and a white-label Riserva. Kathrine Astrup, majority owners of the Nervi I’d quite happily drink the Classico with lunch estate, are Spanna’s official cheerleaders. They and the Riserva with dinner for the rest of my bought the estate in 2011 after falling in love days. While the Classico is softer and lighter with the wines of Gattinara during family ski Views over Carema than the darker, more serious Riserva, both holidays in the Italian Alps. from the vineyards of have a beautiful balance of cherry sweetness, Kathrine says: ‘Spanna was historically Cantina Produttori refreshing acidity and freshness. deemed to be better than Nebbiolo as it ➢ Nebbiolo di Carema

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Moving east, Valtellina lies along the Adda A special Nebbiolo style native to Valtellina River in north Lombardy and is home to real is Sforzato. Similar in style to Amarone, it’s a mountain Nebbiolo, known as Chiavennasca passito wine made from partially dried grapes. locally. The sloping vineyards at Ar.Pe.Pe. Although many producers use heated cellars, estate (Arturo Pelizzatti Perego) are so steep at Ar.Pe.Pe. the grapes dry on the vines. Being that cable cars are used to the grapes. at the mercy of the elements, Isabella only The work is manual and hard. Committed to makes Sforzato around three times a decade. quality, Ar.Pe.Pe. has been a family estate since 1860 – Isabella Pelizzatti Perego and her two Native grapes brothers took over from her father, Arturo, Italy’s Alpine regions are a great source of who decided to make wines in 1984. Isabella little-known but interesting native varieties. says his stubborn belief in producing quality, Beginning with whites, in the DOCG of Caluso was better suited to the climate. Normal Above: aged wines, released when ready to drink, near Turin, Erbaluce is used to make dry table Nebbiolo loses concentration in the acidic soils Isabella Pelizzatti existed from day one: ‘He didn’t sell any wine wines with taut acidity and great minerality, and heavy rain, but Spanna thrives.’ Despite Perego of Ar.Pe.Pe. for six years. It just sat in the cellar, waiting.’ excellent traditional, Champagne-method this, Spanna was gradually replaced by higher with her brothers Guido This ethos continues: the current of sparkling wines, and delicious late-harvest yielding clones of Nebbiolo such as Lampia. (left) and Emanuele Ar.Pe.Pe.’s two riservas is 2007. The vineyards passitos. Caluso producers of fine Erbaluce (in Nervi has been working with the University of are only 2km apart, but the difference in terroir all three formats) to look out for include: Cella Turin to develop Spanna clones from old vines Left: cable cars on the shines through. Sassella is the dark, brooding Grande, La Masera, Cieck and Orsolani. in an effort to increase the proportion of the steeply sloping brother to its soft and seductive sister, In Trentino-Alto Adige, the white grape Spanna vines on its estate. Nervi produces an vineyards of Ar.Pe.Pe. Grumello. In all, eight different cuvées are Nosiola – which is traditionally seen as a excellent estate Gattinara, as well as two estate in Valtellina produced but – understandably given the blending variety (see ‘Unusual grapes’, p10) single-vineyard crus, Molsino and Valferana, harsh geography – only four of those on – was almost extinct in the early 1970s, when typified by finesse, elegance and structure, average are produced each year. ‘Which ones?’ Giuseppe Fanti decided to start bottling a with great acidity and minerality. says Isabella. ‘That depends on mother nature.’ 100% Nosiola wine in the foothills of the ➢

Reilly recommends: best of the Italian Alpine region

Orsolani, Cuvée Tradizione There is great energy on the peppery From steep, south-facing vineyards at orange peel spice. After resting for 12 Les Crêtes, Fumin, Valle spice are followed by tart fruit flavours of 1968, Spumante, Caluso, finish that leaves your palate so refreshed about 600m, this has lovely aromas of months in large oak casks, fruit flavours d’Aosta 2012 94 damsons and griotte cherries. This is full Piedmont 2009 93 you can’t stop yourself smacking your peaches, but you can also smell the wet combine effortlessly with soft tannins £24.95 Exel of energy and is very easy to drink. £20.80 Mille Gusti lips. Drink 2017-2020 Alc 13.5% stone minerality. A lovely waxy texture and mouthwatering acidity to create the Very dark, almost black in Drink 2017-2021 Alc 13.5% 1968 refers to the year reveals white grapefruit and pepper most drinkable wine imaginable. colour. Brooding and spicy, Orsolani’s first sparkling Pojer e Sandri, Nosiola, Dolomiti, leading to refreshing saltiness on the Drink 2017-2028 Alc 12.5% with dark fruits and a touch of Rivetti & Lauro, Dell’Orco, Erbaluce was produced. Trentino-Alto Adige 2015 91 finish. Nicely balanced despite relatively polish on the nose. Deliciously Sforzato di Valtellina, Toasted notes integrate £17 FortyFive10° high alcohol. Drink 2017-2019 Alc 14.5% Nervi, Gattinara, Piedmont tart berry fruit on the palate Lombardy 2011 92 perfectly with pineapple and 100% Nosiola. A heady concoction of 2011 95 leads to a very long finish that £30.36 Vinissimo lime flavours, all combining pepper, minerals and limes, underpinned Ar.Pe.Pe., Buon Consiglio, £24 Raeburn has a pleasing sourness to it. Made from partially dried to create a seamless mouthful by a subtle smokiness through to a long Grumello Riserva, Nebbiolo that’s blended from Drink 2017-2025 Alc 13.5% Nebbiolo. Floral nose of dried of freshness, richness and tension. finish. Unique. Drink 2017-2018 Alc 12% Valtellina Superiore, all of this estate’s vineyards. roses. Powerful and intense Delicious. Drink 2017-2020 Alcohol 13% Lombardy 2007 98 A lovely, sweet fruit nose of Proprietà Sperino, Uvaggio, cherry sweetness is balanced Cantina Terlano, Terlaner £44 Tutto red berries and watermelon Coste della Sesia, Piedmont 2012 94 by a dry finish. A wine made Cantina Produttori Valle Isarco, Classico, Alto Adige 2015 90 Nebbiolo that’s been aged for with notes of spice. So smooth £24.99 Bentley’s, Drinkmonger, Harrogate for cheese, preferably Italian. Aristos, Sylvaner, Alto Adige 2014 92 £15.50 Astrum, Bottle Apostle, four years in oak and three and elegant on the palate, Fine Wine Co, Hedonism, Richard Granger, Drink 2017-2025 Alc 14.5% £21.95 Slurp Field & Fawcett, Highbury years in bottle before release. with acidity and soft tannins Scarlet Wines, The Wine Reserve, Whole Foods A slightly reticent nose of peaches leads Vintners, Jeroboams, The Solent Cherry sweetness melts into on the long finish giving it Blend of 70% Nebbiolo, 20% Vespolina Cantina Andrian, Bocado, Vernatsch, to a lovely texture, with salty stone Cellar, WoodWinters refreshing acidity, creating a great balance. Drink 2017-2026 Alc 13.5% and 10% Croatina. Enticing cherry and Alto Adige 2014 91 minerality and pithy white grapefruit A blend of , stunning wine that is both red berry aromas. The spice of the £13 Astrum, Corks of Cotham, No2 Pound flavours. Herbal, earthy notes to finish. If, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot powerful yet delicate and soft. This wine Ignaz Niedrist, Berger Gei, Lagrein Vespolina and a lovely minerality add real Street, Planet of the Grapes like me, you generally avoid Sylvaner, this Blanc, with a distinct green could be likened to an onion: it has layers Gries Riserva, Alto Adige 2013 94 freshness to a deliciously smooth and With its delicious aromas of cherries and is worth a try. Drink 2017-2022 Alc 14% tinge. Mineral and grapefruit of complexity and it makes me want to £28 Astrum, Bacco, Highbury Vintners, balanced wine. Drink 2017-2022 Alc 12.5% spice, this is full of soft and juicy fruit aromas lead to sweet peach, cry. Drink 2017-2037 Alc 13.5% Vini Italiani character, with raspberries, strawberries Abbazia di Novacella, Kerner, tart citrus and peppery spice. A long and Dark crimson, almost black. Delicious Ottin, Pinot Noir, Valle d’Aosta, 2014 93 and almonds all vying for your attention Alto Adige 2015 91 mineral finish. Drink 2017-2018 Alc 13.5% Cantina Produttori Nebbiolo di Carema, flavours of dark fruits and juniper berries, £23.50 Stannary St Wine Co, Uncorked on the palate. The finish is so fresh that it £17-£18.95 Astrum, Forest Wines, Carema Classico, Piedmont 2013 96 with well-integrated oak sweetness (this From a vineyard planted in 1989 with implores you to have another glass. Lea & Sandeman, Vini Italiani Ottin, Petite Arvine, Valle d’Aosta £18.50-£19.50 Astrum, Highbury Vintners was aged 12 months in barrique), balanced original Burgundy clones, this feels more Drink 2017-2018 Alc 13% Lovely peach and apricot aromas lead to 2015 90 Light as a feather yet bursting with the by an aniseed sourness on the finish. like a German Spätburgunder in style. a tangy orange spiciness on the tongue. £24.50 Stannary St Wine Co flavours of red cherries, raspberries and Fantastic stuff. Drink 2017-2023 Alc 13.5% Savoury notes of leather, mushroom and For full details of UK stockists, see p104 Photograph: Francesco Balatti

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Dolomites. Neighbouring estate Pojer e Sandri then resuscitated an old Nosiola vineyard and did the same thing. Both continue to make excellent 100% Nosiola wines today. Indigenous reds to look out for include Vespolina and Croatina grown in Piedmont and Lombardy. Both are used in blends. Vespolina is particularly evident in Nebbiolo- based blends due to its northern Rhône Syrah-style spiciness. Many of these blends are produced under the Coste della Sesia and Colline Novaresi DOCs. Good examples come adoption of international grapes. Pinot Noir Above: Tenute Sella, from Proprietà Sperino, Tenute Sella, Pietro (or Pinot Nero) is grown across the region and which uses indigenous Cassina and Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo. is the most successful international red grape red variety Vespolina in Fumin, a variety native to Valle d’Aosta, can in the Alps, capable of producing wines with its Nebbiolo blends be blended but also works as a single , great minerality and tension. A particularly producing a dark, brooding, spicy red. In Alto skilled exponent of Alpine Pinot Noir is Elio Below: Elio Ottin is one Adige, interesting indigenous reds include Ottin, one of the rising stars in Valle d’Aosta. of the producers to Lagrein and Vernatsch (also called Trollinger). With the exception of Chardonnay and watch in Valle d’Aosta Fans of Gamay from Beaujolais and the Loire Sauvignon Blanc – which can both be found should enjoy the light juiciness of Vernatsch. right across the region, often in blends – the Lagrein is a more powerful and potentially most typical international varieties planted serious proposition, with some well-structured are those which are already popular in wines on offer, particularly at the riserva level. neighbouring wine regions. The Swiss variety Petite Arvine is particularly popular in Valle International scope d’Aosta, where again Ottin produces one of the The existence of several international borders region’s best examples. In Alto Adige, German around the Alpine region lends itself to the varieties such as Sylvaner, Gewürztraminer, Kerner and Müller-Thurgau are grown extensively, often with great success. ‘Italy’s best Alpine wines So the Alps may still be better known for its ski resorts than its vineyards, but as the latest offer freshness, minerality, generation of winemakers continue to work together to raise the quality and profile of the Simon Reilly is a acidity and complexity wines produced, holidaymakers and wine London-based wine enthusiasts alike will soon be talking about writer who publishes in abundance’ the wines as well. D www.wineloon.com Photograph: Andrea Guermani Andrea Photograph:

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