Officers for Norfolk, Virginia Bang, Followed by a USA, We Believe We Understand the Unique Needs of Cruising Sailors
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OCC FOUNDED 1954 offi cers ADMIRAL Mary Barton COMMODORE Bill McLaren VICE COMMODORE George Curtis REAR COMMODORE Mark Holbrook REGIONAL REAR COMMODORES IRELAND John Bourke AUSTRALIA Alex Whitworth NEW ZEALAND Nina Kiff USA NORTH EAST Doug and Dale Bruce USA SOUTH EAST Sid and Rebecca Shaw WEST COAST NORTH AMERICA Tony and Coryn Gooch ROVING REAR COMMODORES Graham and Avril Johnson Rosemarie and Alfred Alecio Mike and Liz Downing Guy Cosby and Karen Houston David Caukill PAST COMMODORES 1954-1960 Humphrey Barton 1960-1968 Tim Heywood 1968-1975 Brian Stewart 1975-1982 Peter Carter-Ruck 1982-1988 John Foot 1988-1994 Mary Barton 1994-1998 Tony Vasey 1998-2002 Mike Pocock 2002-2006 Alan Taylor 2006-2009 Martin Thomas SECRETARY Richard Anderton, Secretary, Ocean Cruising Club Ltd 10 Carlisle Road, Hampton Middlesex TW12 2UL, UK Tel: (UK) +44 20 7099 2678; (USA)+1 360 519 5401 Fax: (UK) +44 870 052 6922 e-mail: [email protected] EDITOR, FLYING FISH Anne Hammick Falmouth Marina, North Parade Falmouth, Cornwall TR11 2TD, UK Tel: +44 1326 212857 e-mail: [email protected] OCC ADVERTISING Dick Moore – contact details page 196 OCC WEBSITES www.oceancruisingclub.org http://ciccc.oceancruisingclub.org 1 CONTENTS PAGE Editorial 3 The Commodore’s Column 5 In the land of Norse Myths 6 Gus & Helen Wilson Bewitched in Beautiful Bali 19 Misty McIntosh Letters 29 Jens Bagh; Reese Palley Seasickness 31 Caroline Charnley I wrote the editorial for Flying Fish 2011/1 on a lovely sunny April day, rejoicing in Be Careful what you Wish For 35 Steve Pickard print that the coming change to the production schedule would free up future Aprils Atlantic Spiral, Part 1 46 Daria Blackwell for far more important tasks ... like boat maintenance! Equally, the change to the From the Galley of ... 54 Mark Holbrook; Misty McIntosh; Gavin autumn schedule, so that you receive this in January rather than in December, means (also on pages 108, 109 & 131) & Georgie McLaren; Peter H Paternotte that I’m at my desk on a bitterly cold November day rather than on a pleasant, sunny Hard Times 57 Rosemarie Smart-Alecio day in early October. Now why didn’t I think of this years ago? The Perfect Summer Cruise 60 Beth A Leonard Hopefully, Fish arriving in January have a better chance of being read on arrival than Salty Medicine 75 Bill Marden they did in December, when many of us have other things on our minds. However, Arabian Sea Dilemmas 81 Graeme Mulcahy it does mean a very short gap before the next deadline on 1 February, so if you’re Book Reviews 93 Happy Hooking: The Art of Anchoring; thinking of contributing you’d better get moving! I’ll go out of my way to be flexible, Offshore Sailing; Hostage: A Year at of course, so please drop me an e-mail and tell me what you have in mind, and I’ll tell Gunpoint with Somali gangsters; How to you what’s possible. Thanks for your co-operation. One thing I’d particularly welcome Design a Boat; Sail for a Living; is some more recipes for the ‘From the Galley of ...’ series. I’m sure many members have Manoeuvring at Close Quarters under Power; tried-and-tested favourites which they fall back on both afloat and ashore, so please The Splicing Handbook; Atlas of Oceans do share them with the rest of us via the pages of Flying Fish. Delmarva Circuit 103 Art Ross Coming back to the present, we have the usual eclectic mix, including Graeme There and Back Again 111 Andrew Wilson Mulcahy’s highly topical account of running the Red Sea ‘gauntlet’; ocean sailing in the Gateway to the Caribbean 121 Peter H Paternotte Pacific, the Indian and the Atlantic Oceans with Misty McIntosh, Linda Lane Thornton, Guidelines for Contributors 133 Daria Blackwell and new member Peter Paternotte respectively; and coastal cruises in Engine – naw! 137 John & Liz Gordon the Canadian Maritimes, along the Norwegian coast, from south to central France via Gibraltar, and finally around Great Britain and Ireland, and also round the Delmarva Circumnavigating Great... peninsula – Delmarva? see page 103 – with Beth Leonard, Helen and Gus Wilson, Steve Britain & Ireland 146 Mike & Helen Norris Pickard, Mike and Helen Norris and Art Ross. Rigging and medical problems rear their Rat on board 161 Rosemarie Smart-Alecio ugly heads, balanced by Nicola Rodriguez’s reflections on cruising with a young family Sailing Home 167 Nicola Rodriguez and Rosemarie Smart-Alecio’s rueful tales of (survivable) problems in paradise. Everyone gets a Bashing... Finally, and returning to where I came in, could I remind you that the DEADLINE in the Indian Ocean 177 Linda Lane Thornton for the next Flying Fish is WEDNESDAY 1 FEBRUARY though, as I’ve already said, Obituaries and Appreciations 187 the new schedule should allow more flexibility than in the past. I may be away from Advertisers in Flying Fish 195 Falmouth in late January or early February, but I WILL have e-mail so please submit Advertising Rates and Deadlines 196 your text – or simply get in touch – electronically if possible. If photos need to follow on CD that’s fine (text needs editing and proof-reading; photos don’t) but I’d rather HEALTH WARNING not return to discover a heap of unexpected articles in my pigeon-hole ... the pigeon The information in this publication is not to be used for navigation. It is largely wouldn’t like it much either! Many thanks indeed. anecdotal, while the views expressed are those of the individual contributors and are not necessarily shared nor endorsed by the OCC or its members. The material in Dolphins in Aspic. See ‘Be Careful what you Wish For’ this journal may be inaccurate or out-of-date – you rely upon it at your own risk. by Steve Picard, page 35. (And yes, we know it says flying fish...) 2 3 THE COMMODORE‛S COLUMN In a recent column I mused on the whimsy of naming inanimate objects in your boat and building them up into their own personalities. Who doesn‛t name their auto pilot for example? The other day I was reminded by a friend who had read the column – at least somebody did – that there are also less animate, more ethereal crew members. They are always there in the background, they bring good or sometimes not so good luck and sometimes they speak to you. We‛ve all had the experience. It‛s a quiet night with the boat slipping gently along and all is well with the world. You are in that dreamy state where you are struggling to stay awake and you become aware of a repetitive voice just at the threshold of your hearing. It is saying something which you can‛t quite understand. It‛s a distant whisper; you are not quite sure of the language or the message and you know it shouldn‛t be there. Your rational being tells you it is no more than a combination of harmonics from the rigging combined with a creak from the steering gear, but you are not convinced and struggle to understand. You wonder if you are losing the plot; you know there can‛t be a Pure charm. voice, but still you listen. In my friend‛s case the ghostly crew is defi nitely female and rejoices in the name of Miriam Ironing Board. That‛s because ‘Miriam ironing board‛ is all she Why not visit us at ever says. Now that‛s a limited vocabulary by any standards and she must be tedious to have around. I get the feeling that Miriam‛s infl uence is generally our distillery today? thought to be slightly malignant. While she has no reputation as a harbinger of disaster, she has a history of appearing around the time of minor problems Shop • Distillery Tours (including tasting) • Café like the ‛fridge breaking down or the loo blocking. Coincidence? Probably, but you can‛t be sure. Opening times: Vagrant also has her ethereal other, but she is very different to Miriam. She Summer (March – October) 7 days 10am till 6pm is also female but rarely speaks and is known on board as the Good Luck Fairy or the GLF for short. Her infl uence has always been benign and we wouldn‛t be Tours – 10.30, 11.40, 12.30, 1.30, 2.30, 3.30, 4.30 without her. Her greatest triumph was when we had crossed the Davis Strait Winter (October – March) from Greenland and had just arrived at Hopedale in The Labrador. We noticed Mon, Wed, Sat and Sunday 10am till 4pm, that a cotter pin was missing from the lower fi tting on the forestay. The clevis pin was half out and the mast had no right to be standing. There have been other or by appointment. Tours – 10, 30, 11.40 and 2.30pm occasions when good luck rather than good management saved the day and we always offer thanks to the GLF. Coincidence? Probably but you can‛t be sure. Contact us at: Anyway, we believe in the GLF and would never sail without her. Many folk Distillery and Visitor Centre Lochranza, Isle of Arran, KA27 8HJ have asked to borrow her for a day or two but we have always refused. Even Tel: +44 (0) 1770 830264 to Miriam‛s skipper. Email: [email protected] www.arranwhisky.com Bill McLaren [email protected] 4 5 A SECOND SUMMER VOYAGE IN THE LAND OF NORSE MYTHS Helen and Gus Wilson (Gus and Helen cro ssed the Atlantic in 2008 aboard their 38ft Sabre MkII Wings, and have been based in the UK ever since.