IS 1102 (1968): Handloom Buckram Cloth [TXD 8: Handloom and Khadi]
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इंटरनेट मानक Disclosure to Promote the Right To Information Whereas the Parliament of India has set out to provide a practical regime of right to information for citizens to secure access to information under the control of public authorities, in order to promote transparency and accountability in the working of every public authority, and whereas the attached publication of the Bureau of Indian Standards is of particular interest to the public, particularly disadvantaged communities and those engaged in the pursuit of education and knowledge, the attached public safety standard is made available to promote the timely dissemination of this information in an accurate manner to the public. “जान का अधकार, जी का अधकार” “परा को छोड न 5 तरफ” Mazdoor Kisan Shakti Sangathan Jawaharlal Nehru “The Right to Information, The Right to Live” “Step Out From the Old to the New” IS 1102 (1968): Handloom Buckram Cloth [TXD 8: Handloom and Khadi] “ान $ एक न भारत का नमण” Satyanarayan Gangaram Pitroda “Invent a New India Using Knowledge” “ान एक ऐसा खजाना > जो कभी चराया नह जा सकताह ै”ै Bhartṛhari—Nītiśatakam “Knowledge is such a treasure which cannot be stolen” I6 : 1192- 1968 Indian Standard SPECIFICATION FOR HANDLOOM BUCKRAM CLOTH ( First Revision ) Handloom and Khadi Sectional Committee, TDC 13 Chairman Rcpresetiing Sntu C. S. RAMANATHAN Textiles Committee, Bombay Members SHRI DINA NATH ACARWAL The Ludhiana Textile Board, Ludhiana SHRI G~RDHARILAL LOOMBA( Altematr ) SHRI T. BALAKRISHNAN In personal capacity ( C/o National Stores, Cannanore) B~J~INE~SMANAGER The Andhra Handloom Weavers’ Co-operative Society Ltd, Vijayawada BUSINESS MANAGER The Tamil Nadu (Madras State) Handloom Weavers’ Co-operative Society Ltd, Madras SHRI A. S. GROVER Directorate of Industries,Government of Punjab SHRIA. R. K.4POOR Government of Uttar Pradesh DR G. D. PANDE( Alternate ) ,%iRI D. V. LELE Khadi & Village Industries Commission, Bombay SHRI M. M.-MINOCHA Directorate of Industries, Government of Haryana DR S. M. MUKHERJEE Directorate of Industries, Government of West Bengal SHRI S. N. BANERJEE( Alfemale ) SHRI P. S. KADKARNI Ministry of Defence ( DGI ) SHRI I. L. PATEL Inspection Wing, Directorate General of Supplies & Disposals (Ministry of Works, Housing & SUPPlY) SHRI S. R.IFnyAy ( Alternate ) PRINCIPAL, INSTITUTE All India Handloom Board, Bombay OF I-L~NDLOOMTECEINOLOGY, VARANASI SHRI H. RAMAKRISHNA RAO All India Handloom Board, Bombay SHRI G. S. SIHJKLA Government of Rajasthan SHRI C. L. KAPUR ( Aliemaie ) SHR~A. D. VERMA Planning Commission, New Delhi SHRXS. M. CHAKRABORTY, Director General, ISI ( Ex-oJcio Member ) Director ( Tex ) Secretary SHRI 0. P. KHULLAR Assistant Director ( Tex ), IS1 ( ConGwed on page 2 ) INDIAN STAN-DAR-DS INSTITUTION MANAK BHAVAN, 9 BAHADUR SHAH ZAFAR MARG NEW DELHI 110002 IS : 1102- 1968 ( Continudfrom pap 1 ) Handloom and Khadi Cotton Cloth Subcommittee, TDC 13 : 1 Convener Repre.wnting SHRI C. S. RA~~ANATHAN Textiles Committee, Bombay Members BUSINESS MANAGER The Tamil Nadu ( Madras State) Handloom Weavers’ Co-operative Society Ltd, Madras SHRI N. v. GOvINDAYY.4 The Handicrafts & Handlooms Exports Corporation of India Ltd, Madras SHRI A. S. GROVER Directorate of Industries, Government of Punjab SHRI H. N. GUPTA hlessrs Guptajre, New Delhi SHRI A. R. KAPOOR Government of Uttar Pradesh DR G. D. PANDE ( ~lffernale) SHRI P. S. NAD~ARNI Ministry of Defence ( DGI ) SHRI T. GOVINDANNAIR Khadi & Village Industries Commission, Bombay SHRI N. C. NATARAJAN The Kerala State Handloom Weavers’ Co-operative Society Ltd, Trivandrum SHRI R. VIJAYAPPAX NAIR ( Alternate ) SHRI I. L. PATEL Inspection \\Xng, Directorate General of Supplies & Disposals ( Ministry of Works, Housing & SUPPlY ) SHRI S. R. Koca~r.\n ( Alternate ) PRINCIPAL, INDIAN INSTITUTE All India Handloom Board, Bombay OF HANDLOOV TECIINOLOGY, VARANASI SHRI P. V. RAGI3.4VAN Khadi & ‘Jillage Industries Commission, Bombay SHRI P. DIIVAN ( Alternate) IS : 1102- 1968 Indian Standard SPECIFKATION FOR HANDLOOM BUCKRAM CLOTH ( First Revision ) 0. FOREW-ORD 0.1 This lndian Standard ( First Revision) was adopted by the Indian Standards Institution on 27 May 1968, after the draft finalized by the Handloom and Khadi Sectional Committee had been approved 1)~ the Textile Division Council. 0.2 This standard, first published in 1957, prescribed the constructional details and other particulars of only one variety of handloom buckram cloth. The Sectional Committee decided that the standard be revised in order to include additional varieties of buckram cloth which are currently manufactured. This opportunity has also been availcci of to make certain modifications in regard to the requirements of the cloth. 0.3 Euckram cloth is generally used for interlining of garments to give stiffness. 0.4 This standard contains clauses which call for agreement between the purchaser and the supplier/which permit the purchaser to use his option for selection to suit his requirements. The relevant clauses are 2.2.3, 2.2.4, 4.1.1, 6.1 and 7.3, length and width of cloth (see Table 1 ) and value of the scouring loss ( see Tablo 2 ). 0.5 For the purpose of deciding whether a particular requirement of this standard i,j complied with, the final value, observed or calculated, expressin,g the result of a test or analysis, shall hc rounded or in accordance with IS : 2-1960*. The number of significant places retained in the rounded oKvalue should IX the same as that of the specified value in this standard. 1. SCOPE 1.1 This standard prescribes the constructional details and other particulars of four vaGetics of handloom buckram cloth. __ ~ ~~~_~~_ _~_ *Rules for rounding off numerical values ( m&d). 3 IS : 1102- 1968 1.2 This standard does not specify the indeterminable characteristics like general appearance, feel and shade of the cloth ( see also 4.1 ). 2. MANUFACTURE 2.1 Yarn - The yarn used in the manufacture of cloth should be reasonably free from defects and shall be such that the cloth produced com- plies with the requirements of this standard. The warp yarn used in the manufacture of cloth shall be of two fold cotton. The weft yarn shall be of single worsted in case of Variety 1 and of single jute in case of other varieties. The approximate count of warp and weft yarn used in the manufacture of cloth is given below: WW, Weft, %?” . Universal Count Universal Count ( Cotton Count ) ( Metric Count OYGrist ) 1 30 tex x 2 ( 2Os/2 ) 40 tex ( Nm 25 ) 2 30 tex x 2 ( 2Os/2 ) 140 tex (4s) 3 15 tex x 2 (4Os/2) 140 tex (4s) 4 30 tert x 2 (2Os/2) 140 tex (4s ) NOTE -To convert universal count in tex to: a) cotton count, divide 590.5 by the universal count; b) metric count, divide 1 000 by the universal count; and c) grist. multiply 0.029 03 by the universal count. 2.2 Cloth 2.2.1 The cloth shall be woven in plain weave. 2.2.2 The selvedges shall be firm and well-woven. 2.2.3 The cloth conforming to Variety No. 1 shall be mothproofed. The cloth conforming to other varieties may also be mothproofed, if specified by the buyer. NOTE- Copper naphthenate is a suitable mothproofing agent. The amount of copper content calculated as copper in the cloth, if treated with copper naphthenate shall be not less than 0.65 percent when tested by the relevant method given in IS: 3522-1966+. The amount of proofing agents present in the cloth, when treated with materials other than copper naphthenate shall be not less than the values as specified by the buyer. 2.2.4 Either of warp or weft of the cloth may be dyed to the shade as specified by the buyer. However, sulphur black dyes shall not be used. 2.2.4.1 The dyed cloth shall conform to the colour fastness require- ments of Table 2. *Method for determination of common preservatives used in textile industry. (Since revised and split into various parts ). 4 IS : 1102 - 1968 2.2.5 The cloth when visually examined should be reasonably free from spinning and weaving defects. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Construction -The cloth shall comply with the particulars given in Table 1. TABLE 1 PARTICULARS OF HANDLOOM BUCKRAM CLOTH VARIETY ENDS/& Prcxs/dm WEIGHT BREAKING LOAD ON LENGTH WIDTH No. 10x20 cm STRIPS r-k----- Warp Weft (2) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) g/m2 kg kg m cm 212 166 230 175 301 12 72 174 102 270 115 180 I or Or 174 94 270 135 145 As As ( Double ) 174 126 320 145 200 agreed agreed j TOLERANCE, *5 15 *5 -5 -5 - - PERCENT METHOD OF 7.1 of 7.2 of 7.1.1 of 8.1.2 and 9 of 6.4 of 7.2 and TEST IS : 1963- IS : 1963- IS : 1964- IS : 1969-1961$ IS : 1954- 7.3 of 1961* i961+ 1961t 1961s IS : 1954- 19615 -_-- .- *Method for determination of ends and picks per unit length in woven fabrics. ( Since rlYkd j. iMethods for determination of weight per square metre and weight per linear metre of fabrics. *’Sinw rrviad j. fMethod for determination’of breaking load and elongation at break of woven fabric ( by constant-rate-of-traverse machine ). ( Since revised ). §R;iethods for determination of dimensions of fabrics. ; Since revised ). 3.2 Requirements - The cloth shall comply with the requirements given in Table 2. 5 IS : 1182- 1968 TABLE 2 REQUIREMENTS OF HANDLOOM BUCKRAM CLOTH (~Clausc 3.2 ) CHARACTERISTIC REQUIREMENT hiETIroD OF TEST (1) (2) (3) (4) 9 Scouring loss As specified by the buyer IS : 1383-19GO* ii) Relaxation shrinkage 2.5 percent, &fax IS : 2977-1964t iiij Colour fastness to 4 or better IS : 687-19663 washing *Method for determination of scouring loss in grey and finished cotton tcxtilc materials.