Then I walked across the street And caught the Sunday smell of someone frying chicken And Lord, it took me back to something that I’d lost Somewhere, somehow along the way. —Kris Kristofferson “Sunday Morning Coming Down”

ried chicken has long been one of the South’s favorite and Advances in chicken farming, for better or worse, also most enduring comfort foods. Looks like it’s well on its bred chickens that were fattier and tender and thus more Fway to becoming the world’s favorite as well. conducive to frying at any stage of life, so was Fried chicken franchises are currently the fastest-growing no longer limited to the young spring birds. fast food trend in Britain and China. Especially in areas with It became a staple in the African American community lots of young people and/or low incomes. In Britain, fried because chickens were about the only meat they were al- chicken sales grew 36% from 2003 to 2008 compared to 22% lowed to raise as slaves. Then during the years of segrega- for fast food in general. So many fried chicken stands are tion, many African American families packed it on long trips opening there, recent stories in the Guardian and other pa- since it traveled well, could be enjoyed hot or cold, and, pers call for measures such as a moratorium and a “fat tax” on well, most roadside restaurants were not a reliable option. new fast food franchises to curb the boom in “takeaways”— That partially contributed to fried chicken’s long association and in waistlines and cholesterol counts. with negative black minstrel stereotypes that were further Meanwhile, popular fried chicken stands continue to pro- exploited in the early 20th century with restaurants like Sam- liferate there and across the globe, including the ubiqui- bo’s and Coon Chicken Inn. Today, fried chicken has mostly tous KFC, as well as more independent, locally based ones been reclaimed as ‘soul food’ or ‘comfort food’ and is the with amusing names like Euro Fried Chicken, Fried quintessential Fourth of July picnic feast. But there was still a Chicken, Hollywood Fried Chicken, and Texas Fried Chicken recent uproar when a wellmeaning immigrant businessman (with a US flag in the logo, bless their hearts). It’s popular naïvely christened his Brooklyn chicken stand Obama Fried there for the same reasons it always has been here: it’s cheap, Chicken. Whoops. satisfying, and quick (if you’re not the one making it!). With the fast food chains so prevalent the world over, it Another reason it’s so popular is that it’s actually not so might seem odd to seek out fried chicken restaurants and new to most palates. Many cultures throughout Europe, recipes. While those big corporate places admittedly do a Africa, and Asia already have some form of fried poultry decent job of it, there’s still that certain soulful some- in their culinary history. There’s not a clear point of origin thing that only comes from a heaped plate of yardbird for the first fried yardbird. Even the world’s oldest known in a small, down-home cafe or kitchen, freshly fried to cookbook, the De re coquinaria from first-century Rome, order by somebody’s grandma, if not your own. The mom- has a fried chicken recipe (“Pullum frontoniatum”—frying and-pop fried chicken cafe is vanishing Americana (or the whole bird in olive oil with leeks, wine, and spices, then Southernana, if you will), and should be preserved and finishing in an oven and serving with fig syrup…hmm…). enjoyed wherever and whenever possible. The following are There’s also early evidence the Scots vastly preferred fat- just a few cherry-picked staff favorites from Austin, Mem- frying their chicken to boiling or baking it like their English phis, Lafayette, and . Then we show you how to neighbors. The Scots Irish carried these recipes to the Ameri- make your own. Yes, it’s worth it. It’s a cultural thing. n can South, where they met the techniques and spices of West African slave cooks, and thus begat Southern fried chicken as we still know it today. It wasn’t popular outside the South until the 19th century, when plantation owners began serv- ing it as a quaint local delicacy to visiting dignitaries. Hog farming played a role in the rise of fried chicken as well. Many hog farmers also raised chickens for food, and had a steady surplus of lard and rendered fat. Developments in cast iron skillet production and stoves with more control- lable heat also made fried chicken that much easier for the Photography by C. V. Gouveia everyday cook. A Texas Fried Chicken franchise in London Story by L. J. Gouveia Tablecloth photo © Jirkaejc | Dreamstime.com

22 Twisted South www.twistedsouth.com 23 ne of the most surprising things Frank executive chef Jody Chancey afterburn. The chicken underneath is family has been serving straight-up, no- still Gus’s World Famous Fried Chicken, is still serving renowned Creole food about this search for fried moved here fifteen years ago from plump and juicy. A little cup of chipotle frills Southern comfort food, Tex-Mex, a small juke-joint-like cafe in down- like the fried chicken made popular by Ochicken was how many small Virginia, perfecting his chicken recipe honey dipping sauce adds some extra steak, and seafood in a homey, easygo- town Memphis. There’s good reason the late great chef Austin Leslie, who mom-and-pop places—at least in the along the way. zing and sweetness. ing atmosphere. The fried chicken is one it’s caught the attention of Bon Appetit, is honored on page 29. His signature Austin metro area—don’t make the stuff Southern cooks are famously tight- Rounding out the dish is an equally of their favorite dishes, and also some of Saveur, John T. Edge (who literally wrote recipe is on the page before that. It’s anymore. Even the Eastside soul food lipped about their recipes, especially for hearty mound of coarse mashed pota- the best we had. No fancy spices, just the book on fried chicken), numerous dipped in evaporated milk, egg, and places don’t make it. A few limit their fry- fried chicken and soul food. But Jody did toes and slightly tangy collard greens. the traditional salt-pepper-buttermilk- food blogs, review sites, and several spices, then in flour, fried in peanut oil, ing to wings or breast patties. In a small tell us he brines his chicken overnight in If you’ve had only iced tea, beer or flour crust, thick but flakey and satis- roaming food television shows. Foodie and garnished with garlic, parsley, and kitchen, frying chicken takes up a lot of pickle juice and a “secret spice blend,” soda with fried chicken, you might be fyingly salty. Huge breast/back pieces tourists and regular customers alike dill pickles. Comfort food in style. space and time, so it’s hard to justify, es- dredges it in buttermilk and flour sea- pleasantly surprised just how well red are almost miraculously juicy inside gladly endure long waits for the crispy, So consider this a good start for your pecially if it’s not a star dish. soned with salt, pepper, sage, and other wine and champagne actually comple- and perfectly done at the bone. After all spicy bird that is soaked in buttermilk, anti-’bucket’ list—the best real, non- So in Austin, fried chicken has been spices, then deep-fries it in soybean oil. ment it. the culinary fussery in Austin, it’s a nice then dredged in flour and fried in pea- corporate fried chicken to seek out. n mostly ceded to the cheap fast-food The heart-shaped thigh at the begin- Since it is a wine bar, the douchebag reminder that often the best comfort nut oil, then flanked by baked beans, Frank food is the straightforward stuff done dirty rice or fries and white bread. chains or new hipster hangouts where ning of this article is one of his (with factor can be kinda high, but once you 407 Colorado, Austin, TX, (512) 494-6916 really well. Closer to the Gulf, headed toward soul food and ’70s/’80s music are cur- very minimal Photoshop retouching, tuck into that chicken, you won’t care. www.hotdogscoldbeer..com rently popular. Several places down- honest!). Out east on Airport Boulevard, a The hand-mashed potatoes are New Orleans, is one of Lafayette, Loui- town regularly feature fried chicken as Frank’s fried chicken is some of the small, unassuming chicken stand called buttery, with just the right amount siana’s best-kept secrets. In the kitchen Max’s Wine Dive well as Sunday soul food brunches with best we tasted, juicy, with a lot of spice Terry’s Seafood and Chicken sure gives of chunk left, and topped with a thin, of a downtown Mexican restaurant 207 San Jacinto, Austin, TX, (512) 904-0111 fried chicken and waffles. and flavor in the crust. the big boys and downtown hipsters a savory brown gravy. called La Fonda, a popular couple turn www.maxswinedive.com One such place is Frank, a downtown It’s served with thick Belgian bacon- run for the money with spicy, crunchy Most meals also include a trip to out fabulous fried chicken. It’s not on the salad bar, which is very small but the menu, but they’re proud to make it Terry’s Seafood and Chicken hotspot known mainly for its artisanal specked waffles and maple syrup, as a legs, wings, and thighs, always cooked 1805 Airport, Austin, TX (512) 466-3233 sausages and hot dogs, and increasingly plate or even as a chicken-and-waffle to order so they’re never greasy or old. besides the standard iceberg/romaine for those in the know. Like most of the for its Sunday soul food brunch. The sandwich. It’s a very simple batter but well done, mix, it offers a few tasty homemade other best-loved birds listed here, it’s Arkie’s Grill fried chicken and a few other Sunday Max’s Wine Dive is a downtown wine with moderate spice and flecks of pep- bean salads, pasta salads, and, surpris- got that buttermilk crust, lightly sea- 4827 E. Cesar Chavez, Austin, TX dishes have become popular enough to bar pairing its wines with slightly up- per. Family packs come with fries, buns, ingly, an English pea salad, partially soned and fried crisp. They also serve (512) 385-2986 www.arkiesgrill.com edge their way onto the weekday menu scale Southern comfort food. Their and a dipping sauce similar to Frank’s creamed to velvety cool goodness. it over a salad, which is on the menu. Shady Oaks Fine Food as well. bumperstickers and T-shirts proudly Red Hot. Jalapeños are also available— All the food has that undeniable New Orleans’ fried chicken has gotten ‘grandma touch—because it is cooked a lot of buzz in the years rebuilding after 1392 Highway 71 W, Bastrop TX proclaim “Fried chicken it’s almost the law in Texas to have at (512) 303-6447 www.theshadyoaks.com and champagne—why least one of those with your chicken. by the family’s grandmother, Barbara. Katrina, with its most notable rebound the hell not?” Friends The seafood looks promising, too: Dessert is often a cobbler or pie, also story being Willie Mae’s Scotch House Gus’s World Famous Fried Chicken and online reviews raved shrimp, catfish, clams, stuffed crab, and homemade, warm, and hearty. in the Seventh Ward. This is another 310 S. Front St., Memphis, TN about the fried chicken, po’ boys. Business is brisk and busy, with a lot iconic restaurant that’s garnered de- (901) 527-4877 even at $15 a plate. A respectful nod also goes out to of regulars from all across the commu- votion from blogs. books, magazines, La Fonda Their house-made ja- Arkie’s Grill on East Cesar Chavez, for nity. The friendly staff takes the time to and TV shows. And with merit. Willie chat and laugh with everyone. Mae’s respected chicken recipe, now 4827 Johnston St., Lafayette, LA lapeno and buttermilk their no-nonsense fried chicken and (337) 984-5630 www.lafonda1957.com batter makes a perfect veggie plate served up in an authentic Hours can vary a bit, so call ahead. made by her grandchildren running the crust. It’s not at all greasy greasy-spoon diner atmosphere. But They’re also happy to start the chicken revamped restaurant, is an unpreten- Willie Mae’s Scotch House and has a hearty, satisfy- get out there early since they close at for you so it’s ready when you arrive. tious buttermilk crust. They take their 2401 Saint Ann St., New Orleans, LA ing crunch fully worthy 2 p.m. weekdays. Fried chicken is a lot easier to come by time turning out straightforward com- (504) 822-9503 of the John Wayne por- About twenty minutes outside of Aus- in Tennessee. Nearly every cafe and gas fort food that has withstood the test of Jacques-Imo’s trait hanging over the tin in Bastrop, on the westbound side of station offers fried chicken. Some stores time and adversity. 8324 Oak St., New Orleans, LA open kitchen. The jala- Highway 71, is little gem called Shady even stock bags of fried chicken skins. Fans of spicier chicken can head up- (504) 851-0886 www.jacquesimoscafe.com Fried chicken and waffles at Frank peno is more of a faint Oaks Fine Food. Since 1977, the Johnson But for over fifty years, the standout is town to places like Jacques-Imo’s, which

24 Twisted South www.twistedsouth.com 25 rying your own chicken can seem as cutting down on spattering grease. dish and pouring buttermilk over them Lisa’s Twisted Fried Chicken and Playlist daunting to some home cooks, but There’s more information about cast to soak for anywhere from a couple it’s satisfying and lends itself to iron skillets and their care in the side- hours to overnight. 1 fryer chicken, cut up Peanut or canola oil While you’re frying or eating F your yardbird, make it a party and almost endless experimentation. Be- bar on page 28. While we’re at it, just what is butter- 1 cup buttermilk 1 tsp. each of thyme, paprika, and hot pepper blend** sides, a plate of delicious fried chicken Most supermarkets sell chickens also milk, anyway, and why use it instead of 1 egg, slightly beaten Salt and pepper check out the links to these songs at is a point of pride in the South or any- known as “fryers,” easily cut into parts regular milk? ¼ cup beer* 2 cups flour twistedsouth.com. Or use this as where else. for frying. Some cooks even say to look Because of its name, buttermilk is of- a start for your own fried chicken There are many different techniques for a chicken with yellowish skin, as ten assumed to be fatty milk or cream Wash chicken and pat dry with paper towels. Spinkle generously with salt, playlist. Above all, enjoy! involving many different types of pans they’ll be a little fattier and tend to crisp with butter in it. But it’s actually the pepper, thyme, and paprika on both sides. “Sunday Morning Coming Down” - and ingredients. But the basics are up better. If you have to cut up a whole liquid left over after churning butter. In one bowl, mix egg, beer, and buttermilk. Add at least 1 tsp of each spice. Kris Kristofferson skillet-frying, deep-frying, electric skil- bird, use a cleaver to cut it apart at the Occasionally tiny flecks of butter can In a plate or pie pan, put about two cups of flour. let frying, and oven-crisping. joints into drumsticks, thighs, wings, be found in it, but for the most part, Dip chicken in egg mixture and then dredge in the flour. Arrange the chicken “Fried Chicken” - Rufus Thomas Countertop deep fryers and electric and two halves of the breast. The back it’s actually leaner and acidic. Most pieces on a plate and chill in the fridge for 15 minutes. “Southern Fried Chicken”- Hank Penny skillets make it easier than ever to con- and rib sections can make for huge buttermilk today is ‘cultured,’ made by In a cast iron pan, pour oil about 2 inches deep (or in a shallow skillet, halfway trol oil temperature, the most crucial breast pieces that can sometimes not adding bacteria to regular milk and up the side) and heat to 350° F. (On an electric stove, this is usually Medium.) “Memphis Women And Chicken” - part of frying chicken successfully. cook all the way through, so many peo- fermenting 12-14 hours. The naturally Large pieces like breasts should fry approximately 7 minutes per side. Dan Penn These two cookers put fried chicken ple cut these in half again or discard the formed lactic acid help it marinate and When golden brown, remove chicken and drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with “Eight Piece Box” - Southern Culture easily within the reach of even a novice b o n y ribs tenderize meat, and also make it easier salt and some of the hot pepper blend. On the Skids home cook. to digest than milk or cream. It’s most *The beer used here was Shiner Bohemian Black Lager. www.shiner.com “Tearin’ Up A Yardbird” - The Cornell Recipes abound online and in cook- often used to impart flavor, texture, and **The hot pepper used here was Primo’s Peppers Tobago blend. www.primospeppers.com Hurd Band books. Crusts can involve flour, corn- richness to various foods, especially starch, buttermilk, evaporated milk, baked goods. “Follow Me Chicken” - Nathan & the crushed potato chips, and a world Old wives’ tales claimed it could Generally the next step in fried Place a chicken breast in the oil first, Zydeco Cha-Chas chicken is to mix the buttermilk with by itself. If the oil is at the right tempera- of spices. Some brine the chicken cure some minor ailments, im- “Fried Chicken” - Eden Brent first, others marinate for a while prove the complexion, and even a slightly beaten egg and sometimes ture, it should take about seven min- “Taste Like Chicken” - Tony Joe White in buttermilk or other liquids, still make skin immune to poison oak more spices, depending on the recipe. utes on each side to be crispy brown others go straight from the dredg- and poison ivy. That’s somewhat Some add spices to the milk and egg but done all the way through. Adjust the “The Funky Bird” - Rufus Thomas LOWFAT mixture, others to the flour. It will heat if needed. ing plate to the pan. Chicken can doubtable today, but there’s no “Eat That Chicken” - Charles Mingus be fried in peanut oil, canola oil, question that buttermilk is lower in work either way. Dip the chicken in the Next, fry as many other pieces to- shortening, bacon grease, olive oil, fat and calories than milk or cream, egg mixture and then dredge in flour, gether as will fit without touching. “Funky Chicken” - NY Jets soybean oil, or even adventurous It’s also a good source of vitamin B12, cornstarch, breadcrumbs or any other Cover with the lid and check on them “Chicken Fried” - Zac Brown Band combinations of the any of the above. phosphorus, calcium, potassium, and breading material. The crust will ad- every few minutes. “Chicken Lickin’” - Okie Duke But if you really want to go the au- riboflavin. here better during frying if you arrange Hot grease does tend to spatter, espe- thentic, old-school route, the two things Most recipes barely use more than the dredged pieces on a platter and chill cially while turning pieces. If some pops “Fried Chicken and Gasoline” - that seem to come up over and over and back a cup or so, but buttermilk will keep them in the fridge for at least fifteen out and hits the burner, it can flame Southern Culture On the Skids minutes. up. It will usually burn off quickly. If it among respected fried chicken cooks (or use in stock) and up to two weeks in the fridge and can “That Butt Thing/Chicken On the Run” - When you’re ready to fry the chicken, doesn’t, toss a little flour on it. What- and venerable Southern meemaws keep the thin strip of meat known as a actually freeze up to three months. Di- Ryan Foret and Foret Tradition (grandmothers), are cast iron and but- tender for frying as a small nugget. vide into cup or half-cup amounts and fill the pan either halfway full or about ever you do, don’t throw water on it. “Chicken Pickin’ Time!” - Larry Birdsong termilk. Next, rinse the chicken parts care- then place in freezer bags or any other two inches deep with oil or melted If it pops out onto your skin, wash it Just about any good-sized cast iron fully under cool water and then blot freezer-safe containers. When thawed, it shortening. Some meemaws still swear off quickly, then dab on some burn oint- “I Don’t Want No Funky Chicken” - skillet will do, as long as it’s deep enough with paper towels. This will help the may separate a bit, but easily whisks back by their Crisco. Restaurant chefs prefer ment or even some yellow mustard— Wiley And The Checkmates to hold a good inch or two of oil, which seasoning and batter stick better. Be together. peanut or canola oil. Heat it to 350°. This some ointments are made from mus- is pretty critical. Any hotter and your tard extract. (And it’ll be nice and cold.) “Fried Chicken/Mary, Mary” - should come up no higher than halfway sure to trim off any dangling pieces of Don’t have buttermilk? In a pinch, The Slackers up the side of the pan to avoid bubbling skin or yellow chicken fat. you can substitute the same amount of chicken will be lovely golden brown on From time to time, scoop any little over when the chicken is added. But Sprinkle salt, pepper, and any other regular milk or yogurt. Or, if you re- the outside but totally raw at the bone. burnt pieces of crust out of the oil. “Do The Funky Chicken” - Rufus Thomas there is an actual cast iron pan specially seasonings on both sides of each piece. ally need that buttermilk tang, add a Any cooler and it will absorb too much When the chicken is done, drain the made for frying chicken, simply known Salt and pepper is most traditionally tablespoon of lemon juice per cup of oil and the crust will fall off in patches. pieces on paper towels or (if you re- as a chicken pan or chicken fryer. It’s used, although paprika, cayenne, sage, regular milk, and let stand for at least If you don’t have an oil thermometer, ally want to be certifiably old-school) a bit deeper than a skillet and lidded, and ground thyme are also perfectly ten minutes at room temperature. A one way to tell if the oil is hot enough for on brown paper grocery sacks. Sprinkle sort of in between a skillet and a Dutch good choices. teaspoon and a half of cream of tartar frying is to flick a drop of water onto the with some salt or other seasonings, let oven. Some cooks say the lid is essential Then, many old-school recipes call will also turn a cup of regular milk into surface of the oil. It should sizzle and cool for a few more minutes, then serve to keeping the bird juicy inside, as well for arranging the chicken in a shallow passable buttermilk. pop and disappear. it up!

26 Twisted South www.twistedsouth.com 27 Popular, traditional sides for South- a few other ingredients for an easy, ern fried chicken are usually mashed quick chicken salad. potatoes with gravy, french fries, corn If your chicken came out a little rare on the cob, coleslaw, or potato salad, in the middle, you can still save face and usually a roll or some sort of bread by finishing it in the microwave…or Much respect has been paid to a white-suited colonel in Kentucky, but one of to help with the grease. Some people turning it into another time-honored also add pickles, sliced tomatoes, or a Southern soul food classic: smoth- fried chicken’s most beloved chefs was a man in a captain’s hat in chilled cucumber salad. ered chicken. Put it in a skillet and Fried chicken usually doesn’t need cover with gravy (or make the gravy y fondest memory of Austin Leslie was the much in the way of condiments, but a first and put the chicken in it). Cover time I took the last known photo of him, good Southern host will set out bottles and simmer for at least half an hour, when he was the chef at the late Pampy’s of hot sauce or pickled peppers. And, occasionally checking that the gravy M Austin Leslie’s Fried restaurant in New Orleans in late May of 2005, just of course, plenty of napkins. doesn’t stick or dry out. Spoon it over Chicken with Persillade a few months prior to when the flooding following The next day, fried chicken can be re- the chicken several times throughout, 1 ¼ cup peanut oil destroyed the restaurant and heated or even eaten cold straight out and turn the chicken at least once. 1 3-3 ½ lb fryer chicken, cut up many other parts of the city, and displaced and ren- of the fridge, a favorite summer lunch It may take a few times to really get Salt and black pepper dered homeless countless of the city’s citizens. I never for many growing up in the South the hang of your own fried chicken, but 1 egg, lightly beaten thought this would be our “Last Supper” with Austin, before microwave ovens. it is its own reward, and a culinary skill 1 cup evaporated milk but it was. Or cut it up and mix with some may- worth cultivating in this overly corpo- 1 cup water My wife and I were joined at this meal with Brooks onnaise, chopped pickle, and possibly rate, fast food world. n ½ cup flour Hamaker, one of the founders of Abita Brewery. Austin Persillade Garnish: was dressed in his full white chef ’s regalia, complete 4 tbsp. fresh minced garlic with his signature captain’s hat. Earlier in the week 4 tbsp. fresh minced parsley we had eaten there as well with Upperline’s Jo-Ann Dill pickle slices Clevenger, one of the most prominent matriarchs of the New Orleans restaurant community, who had first Heat oil in a cast iron skillet to 350º F. introduced us to Austin at Jacques-Imo’s a few years The Other Kind of Seasoning The oil should come about halfway up earlier. the sides of the skillet. Adjust the amount While Austin is best remembered for his fried chicken in accordance with the skillet size. Com- that he cooked at Jack Leonardi’s Jaques-Imo’s restau- Cast iron cookware started out as a much on the Internet that collector bine garlic and parsley (persillade) in Austin Leslie was born in New Orleans in 1934. His first job, at age 9, rant, the man was capable of so much more, which is why pioneer necessity and has become an groups like The Wagner and Griswold small mixing bowl and set aside. was delivering fried chicken via bicycle for a neighborhood cafe. He the loss of this man to the Louisiana and New Orleans enduring heirloom, collectible, even Society post web pages on how to spot Wash chicken pieces in cool water, pat later became a cook there and perfected his chicken at a succession culinary community was so tragic. a more safe and “sustainable” option fakes. The WAGS site has a lot of other dry with paper towels and sprinkle with of restaurants, including his aunt’s Chez Helene, which he took over If Willie Mae’s Scotch House is the ultimate expres- than some modern cookware. great info, links, and photo galleries. salt and pepper. Set aside. when she retired. Other ventures included a Chicago location, a few sion in soul food minimalism, and Dooky Chase’s the Concerns about toxic leaching from A properly seasoned cast iron skil- In a medium mixing bowl, whisk egg, short-lived franchises, and even a cooking show on Danish television. definitive Creole, then the food that Austin cooked at non-stick cookware, plus a trend back let becomes naturally non-stick as evaporated milk and water. Season with He returned to New Orleans, where he enjoyed renewed popu- the short-lived Pampy’s was the successful fusion of to basics, “slow food,” and comfort the oil seals the metal. Just wash with salt and pepper. Place flour in a sepa- larity at Jacques-Imo’s and inspired producer Hugh Wilson and actor these two essential New Orleans yin/yang forces—here food, and new pre-seasoned wares hot water and a stiff brush. No soap, rate bowl. One piece at a time, starting Tim Reid to create their 1987 TV show Frank’s Place. Reid starred as both soul food and Creole cuisine, the culinary legacy have won cast iron new devotees. which can strip the seasoning. If food with heaviest pieces, dip chicken into egg Frank, based on Leslie, who was also the series consultant. of poor African-Americans in Louisiana, was elevated Cast iron skillets don’t get replaced is stuck on (or you’re just squeamish wash, squeeze, dip into flour and place In 2000, Leslie published Austin Leslie’s Creole Soul: New Orleans’ to the highest of highs. or thrown into a landfill—they get lov- about the no-soap thing), boil some gently in skillet. Do not overcrowd skillet. Cooking with a Soulful Twist. He later moved to the Seventh Ward If anyone ever thought that Austin Leslie was noth- ingly handed down. They can cook water in the pan or use the old camp- Maintain temperature of 350º F. Use restaurant Pampy’s to mentor new cooks and greet guests in his ing but a glorified fry chef, they would be wrong—dead evenly over any heat source from fire trick of scrubbing with a little salt. tongs and long fork to turn chicken often trademark captain’s hat and rhinestone crab necklace. wrong, as you can see from the photos of food we had ovens to open fire, with good reten- Dry thoroughly. It helps, especially in for 7-8 minutes. Remove chicken from oil In August 2005, Hurricane Katrina’s floodwaters trapped Leslie in at Pampy’s on my blog, Off The Broiler. tion. The food absorbs beneficial iron. a humid climate, to dry it over heat. with tongs, pierce with fork and squeeze. his attic for two days until he was rescued and evacuated to . He was a chef ’s chef, in every way, and didn’t believe Brands like Lodge are still made in the Wipe with a thin film of oil, and store. Place chicken back in oil approximately A few weeks later he was hospitalized with a high fever and died in taking shortcuts with his food. For example, he’d only US. And they’ve always been handy Fried chicken cooks swear by cast 7-8 minutes. Chicken is done when no longer hissing and juices run clear. September 29 at age 71. His was the first jazz funeral in New Orleans use fresh, never frozen chicken for his fried chicken, a against burglars and errant husbands. iron. Whether it’s the heat retention, Remove from oil and place on paper after Katrina. The procession marched with the Hot 8 Brass Band from detail that he believed was critical in the successful But cast iron cookware is serious the weight of the iron, or what, chicken towels. Immediately top with a sprinkle Pampy’s to the original Chez Helene location. Some footage appears implementation of the dish. business, from plain skillets around fried in cast iron really does seem juic- of garlic and parsley mixture. Continue in the opening credits of HBO’s Treme. I still miss him and his beaming smile, and his $30 to upscale enameled beauties ier and more thoroughly done. And of until all the chicken is cooked. Garnish His cookbook is still available on Amazon and in many New wonderful cooking. —Jason Perlow costing hundreds. Vintage pieces like course, more down-home. n each piece with a slice of dill pickle. Orleans area shops. Food blogger Jason Perlow graciously shares the highly sought Griswold fetch so Photo courtesy of www..wag-society.org Visit Jason’s blog at OfftheBroiler.wordpress.com Photo by Jason Perlow his memories and photos of Austin Leslie here. —LJG

28 Twisted South www.twistedsouth.com 29