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Recipes of Recovery and Rebuilding: the Role of Cookbooks in Post-Katrina New Orleans

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Recipes of Recovery and Rebuilding: the Role of Cookbooks in Post-Katrina New Orleans Recipes of Recovery and Rebuilding: The Role of Cookbooks in Post-Katrina New Orleans Dissertation Presented in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of The Ohio State University By Nicole K. Nieto Graduate Program in Women’s, Gender and Sexuality Studies The Ohio State University 2015 Dissertation Committee: Linda Mizejewski, Co-Advisor Amy Shuman, Co-Advisor Guisela LaTorre Copyright by Nicole K. Nieto 2015 Abstract In August 2005, New Orleans and surrounding communities suffered catastrophic damage and loss of life when Hurricane Katrina reached landfall. When the levees surrounding the city of New Orleans broke, homes were flooded and lives were lost. Community members began to rebuild their homes as well as their culture including food, music and art. This project examines the role that the New Orleans culinary heritage played in rebuilding and recovering the city. I am primarily concerned with cookbooks published after Hurricane Katrina as well as The Times-Picayune newspaper recipe column, “Rebuilding New Orleans Recipe by Recipe”. I examine the cookbooks and recipe column using discourses of feminist analysis, material culture, continuity and tradition. I am most interested in the ways that cookbooks and recipes helped to rebuild the community and city of New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina. I suggest a fifth cookbook plot, the recovery plot, to Anne Bower’s narrative framework of community cookbooks. In the recovery plot, I suggest cookbooks do the important work of creating continuity and opportunities for recovery after loss. This project suggests cookbooks and recipes were an integral component of cultural recovery after Hurricane Katrina and were in fact a way to share narratives of loss and recovery about the storm and flooding. ii Dedication Dedicated to the city and people of New Orleans iii Acknowledgments I would like to express my gratitude to my dissertation committee, The Department of Women’s, Gender and Sexuality Studies, The Center for Folklore Studies and The Ohio State University. I would like to thank my co-advisors, Linda Mizejewski and Amy Shuman. I met Linda Mizejewski when I first arrived on the OSU campus. Throughout the years she has provided support and encouragement always with a smile and a hug. I took my first Folklore Studies class with Amy Shuman. I went on to take two more classes with Amy and complete a Graduate Interdisciplinary Specialization in Folklore Studies. Throughout this time, Amy provided meaningful insight and time furthering my love for foodways and the study of folklore. I would also like to thank Guisela LaTorre for serving on my committee. Guisela introduced me to many great Chicana scholars and artists throughout my time at OSU. Guisela provided great encouragement to me throughout my time in the WGSS program. I have great respect for all three of these women. They are smart, kind and have each made a lasting impact on me. With great gratitude I thank you all. I would like to thank my parents, Rudolph and Rebecca Nieto, for instilling the value of education in me. I would like to thank my family and friends for their support and encouragement. Finally, I would like to thank my wife, Polett Cahue, who has believed in me when I needed it most. I am so grateful to have her stand beside me in this life. She brings me great joy. I am eternally grateful for this journey. iv Vita May 1995………………………………..Slidell High School, Slidell, Louisiana August 1999……………………………..B.A. International Studies, University of Southern Mississippi August 2002……………………………..M.A. Women’s Studies, University of Alabama Fields of Study Major Field: Women’s, Gender and Sexuality Studies Graduate Interdisciplinary Specialization: Folklore Studies v Table of Contents Abstract………………………………………………………………………………..ii Dedication……………………………………………………………………………..iii Acknowledgments…………………………………………....………………………..iv Vita………………………………………………………………………………….....v Table of Contents…………………………………………………...............................vi Chapter 1: An Introduction……...……………………………………………….……1 Chapter 2: Review of the Literature…..……………………………………………....37 Chapter 3: Recipes Lost and Found...…………………………………………………76 Chapter 4: Continuity through Cookbooks and Tradition…………………………….129 A Conclusion…………………………………………………………………………..161 Works Cited………………………………………………………................................165 vi Chapter 1: An Introduction New Orleans is a small city, but it seems spacious because it is always full of people… like a crowded barroom at night. At dawn, a deserted barroom seems small beyond belief: How did all those people fit? The answer is that space and time are subjective, no matter what the merciless clock of late twentieth-century America tells us. And there is more subjective time and space here in New Orleans than almost anywhere in the United States. Which is not to say that the sad ironies of dehumanized commerce and violence do not touch us here: They do, as Walker Percy’s “Moviegoer” and John Kennedy Toole’s “A Confederacy of Dunces” amply prove. But the city puts up a fight, a funny, sad fight composed sometimes of sly stupidities and Third World inefficiency. The city can drive a sober-minded person insane, but it feeds the dreamer. It feeds the dreamer stories, music, and food. Really great food. (Codrescu 61) I walked the streets of New Orleans, seeing familiar sites, but feeling lost, as if I was in an unknown city. I recognized the places of my youth, but the familiar landscape of music, laughter and people was gone, replaced with an emptiness of silence and darkness. It was November 2005; I had traveled to my home state of Louisiana with over 70 students from The Ohio State University (OSU). We were there on a service trip over the Veteran’s Day weekend to rebuild homes with Habitat for Humanity. We were rebuilding homes in my hometown of Slidell, Louisiana across Lake Ponchartrain on the Northshore. I had recently moved to Columbus, Ohio three months earlier, in August, to begin working at the OSU Multicultural Center. Shortly after I arrived in Columbus, I witnessed from afar the tragedy that swept across my beloved city and the Gulf Coast. Images of despair, hopelessness and violence flooded my television screen in my newly rented apartment with fresh paint still on the walls. My family, living in Slidell and 1 Covington, decided to stay home and await Hurricane Katrina. We had been through many hurricanes before and what meteorologists often referred to as the “storm of the century” often turned out to be little more than a day or two of heavy rain with a few branches blown off of trees. These storms often began with the obligatory visit to the local grocery store, along with the rest of the city’s inhabitants, to buy bread, milk, peanut butter and canned goods. This storm was different, however, and no one would know this until it was much too late. When I finally heard from my parents, five days after the storm hit the Gulf Coast, it was via a man who lived in Baton Rouge and traveled to Slidell to bring sundries, water and food to the small street my parents lived on. My mother asked him to please call her daughter, who was living in Ohio, and let her know that they were okay. I still remember answering the much anticipated phone call, with the Baton Rouge area code flashing on my cellular phone screen, knowing that I was finally going to be reconnected with my family in some way. One day later, my parents made the treacherous 25-mile trip to Covington to make sure my younger sister was okay. Of course, they had not been in contact with her as there was no cellular phone service, landline phone service or power. Luckily for her, a neighbor’s family owned a sno-ball stand, the ubiquitous New Orleans summer treat. He had supplied her with blocks of ice used for making sno-balls. They were able to use the ice to keep drinks and food cold. Our family was spared. We didn’t experience the tragedies that so many did. This does not mean that we did not experience the emotional setbacks and heartache, because we did. As I traveled down to Louisiana with those 70 Ohio State students, I did not know what to expect, but I did know that I was on my way home. On my way to a home 2 that gives me great pride, despite the many inequities that are present., a home that has produced great music and great food, while also producing very high rates of violence and poverty and a home that was slowly rebuilding after enduring tragic loss and despair. Four years later, I was visiting New Orleans again, presenting my research at the annual American Folklore Society meeting. As our plane was landing, I listened to the conversations going on around me. Some were locals, and some were tourists on their way for some fun only New Orleans can offer. All of the conversations I listened to, centered on food. Out-of-towners were asking locals where they recommended they dine. Locals were enthusiastically playing tour guide and suggesting popular and off-the- beaten path restaurants. I smiled, as I do the same thing when I hear a colleague or a friend from Ohio is visiting New Orleans. I give them a rather detailed list of restaurants with descriptions of my favorite dishes as well as memories I have of the restaurant. The list is long and represents my love for the unique New Orleans cuisine as well as the cherished memories I have of the city, a form of my own nostalgia for New Orleans. These food conversations are important and highlight the ways in which New Orleans cuisine is recognizable both to insiders and outsiders. While they may think of New Orleans cuisine differently in that outsiders may have less of an understanding of the nuances of the distinct cuisine, there is still a general shared knowledge between the two groups of New Orleans as a food city.
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