2004 SOUTHERN FOODWAYS SYMPOSIUM he seventh annual Southern Foodways Symposium will be barbecue, cooked by a North Carolina master; light-as-a-feather held October 7-10, 2004, on the campus of the University of biscuits from Knoxville; tender-as-a-mother’s love grillades from T Mississippi in Oxford. This year we explore race through the ; and a quartet of fried chickens, cooked by lens of foodways. We will study, debate, and celebrate the South’s exemplars of the frying art. shared food culture by way of events that focus upon race relations. The SFA believes that racial chasms can be bridged Keep in mind: The Delta Divertissement is back. Over the course when we recognize our common humanity across a table piled of a twenty-four-hour sojourn to the town of Greenwood, high with bowls of collard greens, platters of cornbread. We Mississippi, this quick-to-sell-out prequel to the symposium believe that food is our region’s greatest shared creation. And we offers an opportunity to explore the land that gave birth to heroes see food as a unifier in a diverse region, as a means by which we of the Civil Rights Movement like Fannie Lou Hamer. What’s more, may address the issues that have long vexed our homeland. we’ll talk tamales, hear tales of rabbit hunting in canebrakes, dance to downhome blues, and savor what happens when a James As with previous symposia, this event provides opportunities for Beard Award-winning chef – and Mississippi native – Ann Cashion cooks, chefs, food writers, and inquisitive eaters to come to a sets her mind to feeding her kinsmen and kinswomen. better understanding of Southern cuisine and Southern culture. Lectures, held in Johnson Commons, at the heart of the University Host for the event is the Southern Foodways Alliance at the of Mississippi campus, are complemented by informal lunches University of Mississippi’s Center for the Study of Southern and dinners served in and around Oxford. Culture. Contributors to our efforts include Biltmore Estate Wine Company, Bottletree Bakery, City Grocery, the R&B Feder In keeping with our tradition of offering attendees practical Charitable Foundation for the Beaux Arts, Grassroots Wine, instruction in the collection and dissemination of oral histories, Jim ‘N Nick’s Bar-B-Q, the Mississippi Humanities Council, the Rachel Lawson will share her work with veterans of the Nashville Oxford Tourism Council, and the Yoknapatawpha Arts Council. Sit-in Movement. This class, staged on Thursday prior to the official opening of the symposium, will be free of charge to the In honor of our new sponsor, Burt’s Beef, the SFA will now first twenty registrants. endeavor to serve pasture-raised beef, poultry, and pork.

This year we screen two SFA-produced films, underwritten by the Primary sponsors of the Southern Foodways Symposium are: Fertel Foundation and directed by Joe York. The first, On Flavor, tells the story of Ed Scott, the first African American catfish farmer in the Mississippi Delta. The second, a tribute to the women who fed the Burt’s Beef Civil Rights Movement, highlights Martha Hawkins of Montgomery, Alabama, a modern-day steward of the Welcome Table. The Fertel Foundation

Music continues to be integral to our gatherings. Olu Dara, a Glory Foods native of Mississippi, will lead his Natchezsippi Dance Band in a Saturday afternoon concert that pays homage to Southern icons Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey like prickly okra and juicy strawberries, not to mention fabled writers like Zora Neal Hurston. Viking Range

And then there’s the food. Among the highlights will be White Lily sandwiches of Coca-Cola brisket, made with pastured beef; Mississippi catfish, sheathed in a cornmeal mantle; whole hog On the cover: Art by Amy Evans of Oxford, Mississippi SCHEDULE Unless otherwise noted, all events are in Paul B. Johnson Commons. THURSDAY SATURDAY 2-4 p.m. Registration 9 a.m. Feast of Words Barnard Observatory Beth Ann Fennelly 2-4 p.m. Lunch Counter Oral Histories 9:15 a.m. A Conversation with Olu Dara Barnard Observatory 10 a.m. Mammy and Ole Miss: Domestic Relations Rachel Lawson Trudier Harris, Susan Tucker, and Donna Pierce 5:30 p.m. Thacker Mountain Radio Show 11:15 a.m. SFA General Meeting Off Square Books 12:15 p.m. Viking Range Luncheon 7 p.m. Whole Hog Feed and Cornbread Nation 2 The Quadrangle Release Party Ann Cashion Powerhouse Arts Center Ed Mitchell and Lolis Eric Elie 1:45 p.m. Edible Icons in Black (and White) Possum ‘n’ Taters — Where have you gone? 9 p.m. On Flavor, a Film about Ed Scott,Winner of 2001 Adrian Miller Ruth Fertel Keeper of the Flame Award How Did Macaroni and Cheese Get So Black? Powerhouse Arts Center Rafia Zafar Joe York The Sacred and the Profane: Late Night Chitlins With Momma FRIDAY Audrey Petty 9-10 a.m. Registration 4 p.m. Smithsonian Key Ingredients Exhibit (Optional) Powerhouse Arts Center 10 a.m. Welcome and Introduction of Glory Foods Scholarship Winners Methods and Ethnographics of Watermelon Pickles Charles Reagan Wilson Fritz Blank 10:15 a.m. Invocation 5 p.m. Jack Daniel Lifetime Achievement Award William Winter Introductions by and Charles Reagan Wilson 10:30 a.m. Homily Powerhouse Arts Center Will D. Campbell 5:30 p.m. Olu Dara and the Natchezsippi Dance Band 11 a.m. A Culture of Possibilities Revisited Powerhouse Arts Center Dori Sanders 7 p.m. Throw Down 11:45 a.m. Burt’s Beef Tribute to the Unsung Cooks Gary Pasture of Ole Miss - Mama Dip (NC) Coca-Cola brisket - Austin Leslie (LA) - Scott Peacock (GA) John Currence - Martha Stamps (TN) 1:15 p.m. A Harry Golden Moment Sarah Labensky and Students from the Culinary Tom Hanchett Arts Institute at the Mississippi University for 1:30 p.m. Back of the House: An Appreciation Women Diane McWhorter Music by Guelel Kumba and Slade Lewis 2:30 p.m. 2004 Ruth Fertel Keeper of the Flame Award and Film Screening Martha Hawkins SUNDAY 3:45 p.m. Beloved Community: The Civil Rights Movement 9 a.m. White Lily Biscuits, Grits, and Grillades Brunch and Food City Grocery Bernard Lafayette John Currence 6 p.m. Deviled Yard Egg Degustation and Book Signing 10:30 a.m. Founder’s Toast and Altar Call Off Square Books Lafayette County Courthouse 7:30 p.m. Catfish Fry 11:45 a.m. Where Is Little Willie John When You Really Taylor Grocery Need Him? Lynn Hewlett Lafayette County Courthouse Nikki Giovanni 9 p.m. Street Dance Gospel Benediction Lafayette County Courthouse The Jones Sisters SPEAKERS Fritz Blank has degrees in dairy husbandry, Tom Hanchett, historian at the Levine Diane McWhorter is the author of the dairy science, medical technology, and Museum of the New South in Charlotte, Pulitzer Prize winning history Carry Me clinical microbiology. He is the chef- North Carolina, is the author of Sorting Out Home: Birmingham, Alabama: The Climactic owner of Deux Cheminées in Philadelphia, the New South City: Race, Class, and Urban Battle of the Civil Rights Revolution. Pennsylvania. Development in Charlotte, 1875 - 1975 Scott Peacock is the chef at Watershed in Will Campbell, a native of Amite County, Trudier Harris is a professor of English at the Decatur, . Along with his mentor, Mississippi, is a preacher, author, and University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill. Edna Lewis, he is the author of The Gift of activist. Among his books is Brother to a She is coeditor of the Oxford Companion to Southern Cooking. Dragonfly. African American Literature and author of Audrey Petty is an assistant professor of Ann Cashion, a native of Jackson, the memoir Summer Snow: Reflections from English at the University of Illinois at Mississippi, is the chef and coowner of a Black Daughter of the South. Urbana-Champaign. She is at work on All Cashion’s Eat Place in Washington, D.C. The Martha Hawkins is the 2004 recipient of the Underneath, her first novel. James Beard Foundation named her best the SFA’s Ruth Fertel Keeper of the Flame Donna Pierce is a -based journalist chef in the Mid-Atlantic region for 2004. Award. She is the cook and owner of at work on a book on African American Leah Chase is the chef of Dooky Chase in Martha’s Place in Montgomery, Alabama culinary contributions. New Orleans, . She was the first and the founder of Martha Hawkins Ministries. Dori Sanders of York County, South president of SFA and received SFA’s 2000 Carolina, is a farmer and writer. Her novel Lifetime Achievement Award. She is the Lynn Hewlett, a native of Taylor, Clover won the Lillian Smith Book Award author of And Still I Cook. Mississippi, is a champion barbecue pit- for “elucidating the condition of racial and Mildred Council, known to her many master who owns and operates one of the social inequity and proposing a vision of admirers as Mama Dip, is proprietor of — South’s most fabled catfish houses, Taylor justice and human understanding.” Grocery. you guessed it — Mama Dip’s in Chapel Martha Stamps is the chef of Martha’s at Hill, North Carolina. She is the author of The Jones Sisters are a gospel ensemble the Plantation in Nashville, Tennessee. She Mama Dip’s Kitchen. from Lafayette County, Mississippi. Their is the author of Martha’s at the Plantation: The Culinary Arts Institute at the first album is titled Life’s Not Easy: The Seasonal Recipes from Belle Meade. Jones Sisters at Sun Studios. Mississippi University for Women in Susan Tucker teaches at Tulane in New Columbus is directed by Sarah Labensky. Guelel Kumba, a native of Senegal, and Orleans, Louisiana, and is the author of The institute offers a four-year baccalau- Slade Lewis, a native of Mississippi, are Telling Memories among Southern Women. reate degree in culinary arts. Students fixtures of the Oxford music scene who gig prepare for employment in diverse areas with the likes of Afrissippi and Wiley and Charles Reagan Wilson is the director of of food studies, such as food journalism, the Checkmates. the Center for the Study of Southern food arts, wellness, and entrepreneurship. Culture. He is coeditor of the Encyclopedia Bernard Lafayette is an ordained minister of Southern Culture. John Currence, the chef-owner of City who earned his EdD from Harvard Grocery in Oxford, Mississippi, is the University. He was a cofounder of SNCC William Winter, a Governor of Mississippi, backbone of the symposium. Nearly every and a leader of the Nashville sit-ins. is the spirit behind the William Winter morsel of food that lands on a plate will Institute for Racial Reconciliation at the Rachel Lawson works for the Nashville University of Mississippi. emerge from his kitchen. Public Library. In concert with SFA, she Olu Dara, a native of Mississippi, is a veteran has been compiling oral histories of the Joe York is SFA’s resident filmmaker. His of the loft jazz scene in New York. His album, Nashville sit-in moment. first film, Saving Seeds, was a finalist for the In the World from Natchez to New York, is Golden Snail Award at the Slow Food on Austin Leslie is the fry cook at Jacques- Film Competition in Bra, Italy. the official 2004 soundtrack of the SFA. Imo’s, a New Orleans restaurant owned by Lolis Eric Elie is a columnist for the Times- Jacques Leonardi. Featured in the seminal Rafia Zafar is the chair of African and Afro- Picayune of New Orleans. An SFA founding book Creole Feast, Leslie is one of the grand American Studies at Washington University member, he is also the editor of Cornbread men of the Southern restaurant scene. in St. Louis, Missouri. She is the author of Nation 2: The United States of Barbecue. We Wear the Mask: African Americans Adrian Miller, former special assistant to Write American Literature, 1760-1870. Beth Ann Fennelly is an assistant professor President Clinton and deputy director of the of English at the University of Mississippi. President’s Initiative for One America, is Her newest book of poetry is Tender Hooks. director of outreach for the Bell Policy Nikki Giovanni, a native of Knoxville, Center in Denver, Colorado. He serves on Tennessee, is University Distinguished the SFA board and is the programming chair. Professor at Virginia Tech. Her most Ed Mitchell of Wilson, North Carolina, is recent volume of poetry is Quilting the proprietor of Mitchell’s Ribs, Chicken, and Black-Eyed Pea. BBQ. Check out the profile of him by Peter Kaminsky in Cornbread Nation 2. CELEBRATING THE DELTA WELCOME TABLE

oin the SFA for our second Delta Divertissement. This overnight trip to Greenwood, Mississippi, highlights Delta Delta Rates and Registration J food in black and white. Join us at the Welcome Table. Pay homage to possibilities of food as a facilitator of racial Registration is limited to thirty-five people and will sell out reconciliation. Take your measure of how far we have come. very quickly. Cost for the trip is $165, $145 for SFA members. Ponder how far we have yet to go. Please see the primary registration form. Registrants for the symposium receive preferential status. Rooms at the We will do more than explore the landscape and ponder big Alluvian require a separate registration, are priced at a ideas. On day one, we stage a dinner and cooking demonstration. discounted rate of $135, and may be reserved by dialing Join Ann Cashion, the Mississippi-born, James Beard Award- 866-600-5201 and asking for the special SFA rate. In the winning chef at Cashion’s Eat Place in Washington, D.C., for a event that the Alluvian sells out before you get a chance to fresh look at Delta eats. But that’s just the beginning. Of course, book a room, try the Greenwood Best Western 662-455-5777. we’ll hear a bit of live blues. And gospel too. Sign up early. Only thirty-five spots are available, and they will go fast.

DELTA DIVERTISSEMENT SCHEDULE

WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2004 THURSDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2003 Drive to Greenwood 8 a.m. Sausage and Biscuit and Cane Syrup Breakfast 1 (2 hours from Memphis, 1 /2 hours from Oxford) Come home to Mattie’s Café for biscuits, hand- patted sausage, and syrup pressed from ribbon 2 p.m. Tour Viking Range Corporation’s Manufacturing cane. Invocation by Reverend McArthur McKinley of Facilities Little Zion M. B. Church. And to get you going, a little Watch a stove being built from the ground up. music by Duff Dorrough and friends. 4 p.m. The Delta Welcome Table 9 a.m. Delta Tour in Black And White Sample tamales from Giardina’s of Greenwood and Follow scholars Luther Brown and Lynn Linnemeier Doe’s Eat Place of Greenville. Learn, from as we explore the Delta. We’ll learn the history of Mississippi Senator David Jordan, about a waiter this fabled land – from the power of the mighty named Booker Wright, who catalyzed the river that shaped the land, to the origins of the Movement. blues, to the struggle for civil rights. Among the 5:30 p.m. Dinner in the Delta stops will be Drew, where local folks are working to Join Ann Cashion, a native of Mississippi — who make the ideal of the Beloved Community a reality; named her Washington D.C. restaurant in tribute to a and Ruleville, hometown of Fannie Lou Hamer. Delta haunt, Doe’s Eat Place — for a virtual tour of We’ll pay homage to Hamer in typical SFA fashion: Mississippi eats. Learn technique from a James Beard In tribute to her efforts to establish a pig-breeding Award-winning chef. Learn how Mississippi eats program for destitute Deltans, we’ll pace a papier- translate to a white tablecloth. Eat your fill. mâché pig on her gravestone. 8 p.m. Shake a Leg and See a Flick at Club Ebony, 12 p.m. Soul of Southern Cooking Lunch in Drew with B.B. King’s hometown juke in Indianola. View Joe Kathy Starr and Martha Foose. Gospel by the Holly York’s film, On Flavor, about catfish framer Ed Grove M. B. Church Choir. We will pay homage to Scott. Lend an ear to David Durham and the Ladies Kathy Starr’s grandmother, Miz Bob, and savor the Choice Band. Expect downhome blues. Enjoy best sweet potato pie to ever cross a palate. libations. Listen to David tell tales of rabbit hunting. 1:30 p.m. Bus to Greenwood

1 OVERNIGHT AT THE ALLUVIAN 2:30 p.m. Depart for Oxford (1 /2 hours)

PLEASE SEE DELTA PEOPLE AND PLACES TO KNOW ON THE NEXT PAGE DELTA PEOPLE AND PLACES TO KNOW

The Alluvian is a luxury boutique hotel in Duff Dorrough of Ruleville, Mississippi, is Lynn Linnemier, a graduate student in Greenwood, Mississippi, set within walking a painter and musician. He now leads Southern Studies at the University of distance of the Yazoo River and historic Duff and the Revelators. His latest album Mississippi, is an accomplished artist. Cotton Row. Original art by Delta artists is Peace in the Lily of the Valley. Her academic work focuses upon African and a lively lobby scene make the Americans as depicted in stereographic Martha Foose, a native of Pluto Alluvian the epicenter of contemporary photography. Plantation in Holmes County, is director Delta culture. of the Viking Range Cooking School. She Reverend McArthur McKinley preaches Luther Brown is the founding director of and her husband, Donald, operate the to the congregation at Little Zion M. B. the Delta Center for Culture and Learning Mockingbird Bakery in Greenwood. Church, where the choir shakes the walls at Delta State University in Cleveland, every first and third Sunday. Giardina’s, in business since 1936, is a Mississippi. local favorite for Italian-inflected Delta Mattie Smith, a native of Minter City, Ann Cashion, a native of Jackson, is the dishes like broiled Gulf pompano, hot Mississippi, is proprietor of Mattie’s Cafe chef and coowner of Cashion’s Eat Place tamales, and peerless onion rings. in Greenwood. Her fried chicken is in Washington, D.C. and the coowner of legendary, and so are her biscuits. Holly Grove Missionary Baptist Church in Johnny’s Half Shell, also in D.C. In 2004, Drew is led by Reverend Jesse Gresham. His Kathy Starr, a native of Hollandale, the James Beard Foundation named her congregation established the Holly Grove Mississippi, is the author of The Soul of the best chef in the Mid-Atlantic. Community Development Corporation to Southern Cooking. She is one of the fifty David Durham and the Ladies Choice restore an historic Rosenwald school. founders of the SFA. Band bring down the house every Sunday Senator David Jordan, a native of night at Club Ebony. Recently, the Greenwood, represents the Holmes, Mississippi Blues Society named him Leflore, and Tallahatchie Counties in the Bluesman of the Year. Mississippi senate. He is president of the Greenwood Voter’s League.

OXFORD PARTICULARS LODGING TRANSPORTATION A block of rooms has been reserved at the Downtown Inn, 234- Persons who fly to the symposium should book their flights to and 3031, located just off the Oxford Square, and at the Alumni House from Memphis (Tennessee) International Airport. Rental cars 234-2331, on the University of Mississippi campus. The area code from all the major companies are available at the airport. SFA will for all calls is 662. Other accommodations include: post a ride-share board on our website for attendees who wish to coordinate travel to Oxford. Members interested in this service Comfort Inn: 234-6000 should contact [email protected] by September 15 with the Days Inn: 234-9500 following information: Fox Hill: 234-1922 Hampton Inn: 232-2442 Have a car, will share a ride from the airport Holiday Inn Express: 236-2500 Need a ride, willing to share rental car costs Johnson’s Motor Inn: 234-3611 Arrival date/time:______Airline/Flight Number ______Ole Miss Motel: 234-2424 Return date/time:______Airline/Flight Number ______Oliver-Britt House: 234-8043 All travel and contact information will be posted online September Puddin’ Place: 234-1250 25, and attendees may contact one another to arrange rideshares. Ramada Inn: 234-7013 Tree House: 513-6354

SOUTHERN FOODWAYS ALLIANCE The mission of the Southern Foodways Alliance it is to celebrate, preserve, and promote the diverse food cultures of the American South. Enrollment is open to anyone, and members receive a 10 percent reduction in symposium registration fees as well as other benefits. ORAL HISTORY WORKSHOP TO REGISTRATION PRECEDE SYMPOSIUM egistration for the symposium includes all lectures, or the past year, in concert with the Southern Foodways scheduled meals, and entertainment. Registration for the Alliance, Rachel Lawson has been working to uncover how R Delta Divertissement is separate. Those planning to attend F food served as both symbol and sustenance in the Sit-In the symposium are advised to register early in order to secure a Movement. In keeping with our tradition of offering attendees space, as the symposium sells out very quickly. Mary Beth Lasseter practical instruction in the collection and dissemination of oral will administer registration. No phone or e-mail registrations will histories, she will share her work with a small group of be accepted. Mary Beth may be reached at [email protected]. symposiasts. This class, staged on Thursday prior to the official SFA Director John T Edge may be reached at [email protected]. opening of the symposium, will be free of charge to the first Registration opens on July 10. No registration is confirmed until twenty registrants. Though there is no additional fee for this you have received e-mail or written notification from Mary Beth. session, seating is limited to twenty persons, first come first Individual registrations will be confirmed the week of August 23. served. Please check the appropriate box below and we will No refunds will be processed after September 1. confirm your participation.

REGISTRATION FORM

Name ______

Business ______

Address ______

City ______State ______Zip ______

Phone ______Fax ______

E-mail ______

I would like to attend the symposium at a reduced rate of $340. Check enclosed, made payable to the Southern Foodways I am a member of the SFA or would like to join for an additional Alliance $25 (student), $50 (individual), $75 (family), $200 (nonprofit), or $500 (corporate) for a one-year membership. (Circle one) Charge to: _____ Visa _____ Master Card Yes, I would like to register for the Oral History Workshop to precede the symposium. ______I would like to attend the symposium at the regular rate of $380. Account Number

I would like to attend the Delta Divertissement at the SFA ______rate of $145. Expiration Date I would like to attend the Delta Divertissement at the regular rate of $165. ______Signature of Cardholder I cannot attend the symposium, but would like to join the Southern Foodways Alliance as a student, individual, family, non-profit, or corporate member (circle one). Rates are listed above. RETURN FORM TO SOUTHERN FOODWAYS SYMPOSIUM, CENTER FOR THE STUDY OF SOUTHERN CULTURE, P.O. BOX I am interested in having my name posted on the rider board. I will e-mail my travel plans to [email protected] by 1848, UNIVERSITY, MS 38677 OR FAX TO 662-915-5814. September 15. NonProfit Org. U.S. Postage PAID Permit No. 6 The University of Mississippi University, MS Southern Foodways Alliance Center for the Study of Southern Culture P.O. Box 1848 University, MS 38677-1848