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Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Anirban Mahapatra A million thanks to fellow author Paul Clammer, Many thanks to the travellers who used the last destination editor Joe Bindloss and everyone at edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful Lonely Planet for making this fantastic book come to advice and interesting anecdotes: Aäron van der Sanden, Alex King, Ali Kingston, Barney Smith, Carlijn life. To the wonderful people of , including Simons, David Butler, David Martin, Edward Aitken, Enayet, Murshed, Taufiq, Rafiq, Swapan, Jameel and Frank Francis, George Hart, Jane Green, Jody Martin, Halim for their invaluable support along the way. To Julie Clarkson, Kath Gardiner, Katherine Chiu, Laura friends in , including Farhan, Thomas, Rose- Gispert, Loredana Ducco, Marcos Mendonca, Max anne, Keya, Arnob, Samir and Nadeem for sharing Steinacher, Roberta Haas, Stefano Dalmonte, Steven their own insights into Bangladesh. And most of all, Haas to Roshni, for her unending encouragement, patience and support.

WRITER THANKS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Paul Clammer Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson In Dhaka, thanks to Mostafizur Rahman Jewel for BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the his assistance and friendship, and to my co-author Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Anirban Mahapatra for coffee-fuelled strategy meet- Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. ings. In Chittagong, thanks to Didarul Didar for his advice, and help with hill tribes permits. In Cox’s Cover photograph: Royal tiger, Bazar, thank you to Jafar Alam for the insights into National Park, Neelsky/Shutterstock © the Bangla surf scene. At my desk, long-time editor Joe Bindloss deserves thanks and patience for more than the usual number of questions as new systems were rolled out. Finally, thanks and love to Robyn, who wasn’t a sidekick for this trip, but remains the best one everywhere else. 186 BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

and Stuart Butler. This guide- Assisting Editors Judith THIS BOOK book was produced by the Bamber, Kate James, Jodie This 8th edition of Lonely following: Martire, Rosie Nicholson Planet’s Bangladesh guide- Destination Editor Joe Cover Researcher Naomi book was researched and Bindloss Parker written by Paul Clammer and Product Editor Luna Soo Thanks to Shahara Ahmed, Anirban Mahapatra, with the Senior Cartographer David Liz Heynes, Catherine Health chapter based on text Kemp Naghten, Kirsten Rawlings, written by Dr Trish Bachelor. Angela Tinson, Lauren Welli- Book Designer Michael Buick The previous two editions were come, Tracy Whitmey, Amanda Senior Editors Andi Jones, written by Daniel McCrohan Williamson Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 187

Index

A beaches 16 health 174 Comilla 122-4, 123 accessible travel 160 Cox’s Bazar 117 history 142, 145, 147 consulates 161-2 accommodation 160-1, Kuakata 81 border crossings 24-7 costs 15 180, see also individual St Martin’s Island 120 budgeting 15, see also costs accommodation 160 locations Benapole 25-6 Buriganga River 29-30, 36 food 162 activities 18-20, 161, see Bengal tigers 9, 69, 148, 9 Burimari 26 Cox’s Bazar 10, 117-20, 118 also individual activities Bengali language 179-84 bus travel 169-70, 171 craft 58, 153-4 Adivasi people 59, 109-10, business hours 163 111, 146, 158 Bengali New Year 19 credit cards 163 AIDS 175 62 cricket 50, 157 air travel bicycle travel, see cycling C crime 164 to/from Bangladesh 168 birds 149-50 car travel 164, 170-1, 183 crocodiles 69, 71, 73 within Bangladesh 169 birdwatching cell phones 14, 165 culture 140-1, 157-8 airports 15, 168 books 149 cha 156 currency 14, 163 Akhaura 25 Sunamganj 131 Chakma Islands 115 customs regulations 161 amoebic dysentery 177 Sundarbans National chars 70, 81, 89 Park 69-70 cycle-rickshaws 5, 13, 41-2, animals 148-50, see also children, travel with 161 Birisiri 62 54, 154, 171, 5, 13 individual species China Clay Hills 30, 62 Bishwa Ijtema 18 Dhaka 54 architecture 39, 84, 95, 97 Chittagong 102-7, 104 boat tours 30, 42, 130 cycling 134-5, 169, 183 area codes 15, 165 accomodation 103-5 boat trips 9, 11, 12, 16, cyclones 149 arts 152-4, see also activities 102-3 music 28-30, 171, 9, 11, 12, see also Rocket steamers entertainment 106 ATMs 163 Buriganga River 29-30 food 105 D auto-rickshaws 171 dangers, see safety China Clay Hills 30, 62 sights 102 deforestation 151 Chittagong 106 travel to/from 106-7 dengue fever 174 B Dhaka 42-3 travel within 107 departure tax 26 Bagerhat 12, 73-5, 74 Dhaka to Hularhat 29 Chittagong Division 32, 100-24, Dhaka 11, 31, 34-54, 35, 38, baksheesh 163 Fatra Char 81 101 accommodation 100 40, 44, 8, 11 Banaripara 80 Jamuna River 89 climate 100 accommodation 34, 43-7 Bandarban 111-14, 112 Kaptai Lake 30, 114 food 100 activities 41-3 Barisal 78-80, 79 Maheskhali Island 30, 121-2 highlights 101 climate 34 Barisal Division 32, Mongla 71 drinking & nightlife 49-50 78-81, 64 Ratargul 12, 130 itineraries 23, 23 entertainment 50 accommodation 63 Sangu River 30, 111-12 travel seasons 100 festivals 43 climate 63 Sunamganj Wetlands Chittagong Hill Tracts 10, food 34, 48-9 food 63 30, 131 107-17, 146, 10 highlights 35 highlights 64 Sundarbans National Chokoria Game Reserve 121-2 travel seasons 63 Park 29, 69 history 36 churches bathrooms 165 Bodo Kuthi 86 medical services 52 Armenian Church of the Bauls 77, 153 Boga Lake 113 orientation 36 Holy Resurrection 38 safety 51 bazaars, see markets & Bogra 89-91, 90 St Paul’s Catholic bazaars shopping 50-1 Boisabi 19 Church 71 sights 36-40 books 140, see also cinema 153 literature tourist information 51-2 Map Pages 000 climate 14, 18-20 Photo Pages birdwatching 149 tours 43 000 CNGs 171 188 Dhaka continued G Islam, Kazi Nazrul 19, 152 Mymensingh 59 travel to/from 52-4 gardens, see parks & itineraries 21-3 New Market 51 travel within 54 gardens Shankharia Bazar 37 weather 34 Garo people 59 J Tribal Bazar 111 Dhaka Division 31, Gaud 26-7, 88-9 Jamuna River 89 measles 176 55-62, 56 gay travellers 162 Japanese B measures 167 INDEX INDEX climate 55 geography 148 encephalitis 176 media 140 highlights 56 giardiasis 177 Jessore 75-7, 76 mediacl services 174 travel seasons 55 mobile phones 14, 165 D-M  Dhaka monasteries University 39 H K

Aggameda  Haatibandha 113 Kahn, Louis 39 Dhamrai 58-9 Khyang 117 Hasina, Sheikh 140 Kantanagar Temple 97 diarrhoea 177 Bana Vihara health 173-8 Kaptai Lake 30, 114-15 Dinajpur 97-9, 98 Monastery 115 books 174 disabilities, travellers Karamjal Forest Station 71 Dhatu Jadi 111 diseases 174-7 with 160 Khulna 65-8, 66 Somapuri Vihara 93 environmental hazards diving 120 Khulna Division 32, money 14, 15, 163 177-8 drinking water 151, 178 65-78, 64 moneychangers 163 insurance 173 drinks 135, 156 accommodation 62 internet resources 174 Mongla 71-3, 72 driving, see car travel, climate 63 services 174 37 motorcycle travel food 63 vaccinations 173-4 Bagerhat 12, 73, 74, drugs 162 highlights 64 75, 13 heatstroke 178 Dublar Char 70 travel seasons 63 Chhoto Sona hepatitis 175 Dutt, Michael Kuakata 81 Masjid 88 hiking 13, 17 Madhusudan 65 Kushtia 77-8 Darasbari 88-9 Bandarban 111, 113 kuthis 86 Goaldi Mosque 57-8 Chittagong Hill Tracts Khania Dighi Mosque 88 E 108-9, 110, 113 economy 141 Nine-Domed DC Hill 103 L electricity 161 Mosque 74-5 Fairy Hill 103 lakes elephants 122 Ronvijoypur Mosque 74 Srimangal 136 Boga Lake 113 Shait Gumbad embassies 161-2 Kaptai Lake 30, 114 Hili 26 Mosque 73, 13 embroidery 153-4 Ram Sagar 97 history 142-7 Star Mosque 37-8 emergencies 15, 181 Sukh Sagar 99 British rule 143-4 mosquitos 176 environment 148-51 37 Buddhism 142-3 motorcycle travel 170-1 environmental Independence 146 Lalon Festival 18, 77-8 issues 141, 150-1 movies 153 Islam 143 language 14, 157, 179-84 etiquette 158 Mowdok Taung 109 Partition 144 legal matters 162-3 food 156 Mt Keokradong 108 War of Liberation 144-5 lesbian travellers 162 mosques 37 Muktagacha 61-2 hitchhiking 171 LGBT travellers 162 events 18-20, 43, 97 Muktagacha Rajbari 61 HIV 175 literature 43, 152-3, see exchange rates 15 also books museums Holi 18 Lowacherra National Bagerhat Museum 73-4 holidays 164 Park 133-4 Bandarban Museum 111 F hoolock gibbons 133, 134, Ethnological Fakirs 77, 153 136, 13 Museum 102 Fatra Char 81 hotels 160, see also M Kuthibari 77 ferries, see boat trips individual locations Madhu Kunj 65 Liberation War festivals 18-20, 43, 97 Hum Hum Falls 136 Maha Raas Leela 97 Museum 38-9 film 153 Mahasthangarh 91-3 Mahasthangarh floods 150 Maheskhali Island 30, 121-2 I Museum 92 flu 175 indigo 86 malaria 176 Mainimati Museum 123 food 111, 155-6, 177-8, 180-1 influenza 175 mangroves 70 see also individual Mohammed Ali Palace insurance 162, 173 maps 163 locations Museum 90 internet access 162 markets & bazaars 16 National Museum 38 internet resources 15, Banaripara floating Paharpur Museum 94 164, 174 market 80 Rabindranath Memorial Map Pages 000 Islam 141, 157 Banga Bazar 50 Photo Pages 000 Central Bazar 102 Museum 65 Sadarbari 57 189 Tribal Cultural border crossings 24-7 Puthia 87 Sundarbans National Park Academy 62 budgeting 15, 160, 162 Salban Vihara 122-3 9, 69-71 Tribal Cultural Institute calendar of events 18-20 Sona Masjid (Gaud) 88-9 boat trips 29, 70 Museum 116 health 173-4 Tahkhana Palace 88 itineraries 21, 21 Varendra Research highlights 6-13 tours 70-1 Museum 84 internet resources 15 surfing 10, 117

Zia Memorial S INDEX Swatch of No Ground 30 Museum 102 itineraries 21-3 safaris music 77, 153 travel seasons 14, 18-20 Ratargul 12, 130 127-30, 128 festivals 18, 20, 43 plants 150 Sundarbans National 32, 125-38, M-T  political violence 140-1, 126 Mymensingh 59-61, 60 Park 9, 70-1  safety 164-5 accommodation 125 164-5 politics 140-1 Chittagong Hill climate 125 N pollution 151, 177 Tracts 110 food 125 Nafakhum Falls 108 population 51, 141 cycling 169 highlights 126 nakshi kantha 153-4 postal services 163-4 Dhaka 51 travel seasons 125 Nasrin, Taslima 152 public holidays 164 Dinajpur 97 National Assembly Puthia 87-8, 17 ferries 29 Building 39 T road safety 164 national parks, see also Tagore, Rabindranath 19, Srimangal 135 parks & gardens R 77, 152, 153 Bhawal National Park 62 rabies 176-7 Sangiya 113 Tamabil 27 Lowacherra National Rahman, Ziaur 146 Sangu River 30, 111-12, 113 tap water 151, 178 Satchari National Park 134 Park 133-4 Rajshahi 84-6, 85 taxis 171-2 Ramsagar National Rajshahi Division 32, scams 164 tea 134, 135, 156 Park 97-8 82-99, 83 Shah, Lalon 77 tea estates 132, 134, 135 Satchari National accommodation 82 Shailapropat Falls 113 Teknaf Wildlife Park 134 climate 82 ship-breaking yards 103 Sanctuary 122 Sundarbans National food 82 shopping, see markets telephone services 14, 165 Park 29, 69-71 & bazaars, individual highlights 83 temples news 140 locations travel seasons 82 Adinath Temple 121 shrines & tombs Ramadan 19 Chachra Shiv Mandir 75 Mausoleum of Pari 37 O Ramnagar 133 Bibi 37 opening hours 163 Durga Temple 98 Rangamati 114-17, 115 Mazhar of Shah Sultan otters 67 Govinda Bhita Hindu Rangpur 94-7, Balkhi 92-3 95 Temple 93 Rangpur Division 32, Shrine of Hazrat Shah Govinda Temple 87 82-99, 83 Jalal 127 P Kali Temple 94-5 Paharpur 93-4 accommodation 82 Shrine of Lalon Kantanagar Temple 97 palaces climate 82 Shah 77-8 Krishna Temple 98-9 37 food 82 Tomb of Khan Jahan Ali 74 Shiva Temple 87, 17 Puthia Palace 87 highlights 83 Siliguri 27 tempos 172 Tahkhana Palace 88 travel seasons 82 smoking 167 textiles 153-4 Tajhat Palace 94 Ratargul 12, 130-1, 12 Somapuri Vihara 93 tigers 9, 69, 148, 9 parks & gardens, see also religion 141, 157 Sona Masjid 26-7, 88-9 time zones 14, 165 national parks religious festivals 18-20, 97 57-8, 58 tipping 163 Baldha Gardens 39 rickshaws, see CNGs, Botanical Gardens cycle-rickshaws Srimangal 131-8, 132 toilets 165 (Dhaka) 40 road safety 164 accommodation 135-6 tombs, see shrines & tombs Botanical Gardens Rocket steamers 11, 28-9, activities 134 (Mymensingh) 59-60 68, 11 food 137 tourist information 165-6 Madhu Kunj 65 Royal Bengal tigers 9, 69, shopping 138 tours, see also safaris Mohammed Ali Palace 148, 9 sights 132-4 Dhaka 43 Park 90 ruins 16 tours 135 boat tours 30, 42, 130 Mymensingh 59 itineraries 23 travel to/from 1638 rickshaw tours 41-2 permits 166 Mahasthangarh 92-3 steamers, see boat trips Srimangal 135 planning Mainimati 122 St Martin’s Sundarbans National Bangladesh basics 14-15 Paharpur 93-4 Island 120-1, 17 Park 70-1 Bangladesh’s regions 31-2 Painam Nagar 57 Sunamganj 30, 131 walking tours 43 boat trips 28-30 train travel 172 190 transport 168-72, 182-3, V Shailapropat Falls 113 Satchari National see also boat trips, vacations 164 Shuvalong Falls 114 Park 134 cycle-rickshaws vaccinations 173-4 weather 14, 18-20 Sundarbans National travel to/from Park 69-70 vegetarian travellers 156 weaving 153 Bangladesh 168 Teknaf Wildlife websites, see internet travel within visas 14, 166 Sanctuary 122 resources Bangladesh 168-72 visual arts 154 INDEX INDEX women in weights 167 trekking, see hiking volunteering 166-7 Bangladesh 157-8 wi-fi 162 tribes, see Adivasi people, women travellers 165, 167 wildlife 17, 70, 148-50, see Garo people work 167 T-Z W also individual animals tuberculosis 177 walking, see hiking wildlife-watching  typhoid 177 waterfalls Karamjal Forest Z Hum Hum Falls 136 Station 71 Zia, Khaleda 140 Nafakhum Falls 108

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 191

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Hut/Shelter Walking Tour detour Sikh Lighthouse Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lookout Winery/Vineyard Mountain/Volcano Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Oasis International Other Sight Park State/Province Pass Disputed Activities, Picnic Area Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Waterfall Marine Park Bodysurfing Cliff Diving Population Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (National) Course/Tour Capital (State/Province) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen City/Large Town River, Creek Skiing Town/Village Intermittent River Snorkelling Canal Surfing Transport Water Swimming/Pool Airport Walking Border crossing Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Bus Reef Other Activity Cable car/Funicular Cycling Areas Sleeping Ferry Airport/Runway Sleeping Metro station Camping Monorail Beach/Desert Parking Cemetery (Christian) Eating Petrol station Eating Subway station Cemetery (Other) Taxi Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Drinking & Nightlife Tram Mudflat Cafe Underground station Park/Forest Other Transport Entertainment Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing, Dublin and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Paul Clammer Paul has contributed to over 25 Lonely Planet guidebooks, and worked as a tour guide in countries from Turkey to Morocco. In a previous life he may even have been a molecular biologist. For Lonely Planet he’s covered swathes of the sub- continent from both sides of the Khyber Pass to Rajasthan and Kashmir, so was pleased to finally add Bangladesh to his tally. Follow @paulclammer on Twitter.

Anirban Mahapatra A Bangla speaker by birth, a folk music aficionado by taste and akachchi biryani lover by choice, Anirban has made repeated forays into the green landscape of Bangladesh. He has experienced its amazing variety, from riding a boat into tiger territory in the Sundarbans and socialising with wandering Bauls in Kushtia, to sip- ping aromatic tea in Sylhet and exploring ancient citadels in Rajshahi and Rangpur. Anirban has also written for multiple editions of Lonely Planet’s India guidebook.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 8th edition – December 2016 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 213 4 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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