Behind the Scenes
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 185 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Anirban Mahapatra A million thanks to fellow author Paul Clammer, Many thanks to the travellers who used the last destination editor Joe Bindloss and everyone at edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful Lonely Planet for making this fantastic book come to advice and interesting anecdotes: Aäron van der Sanden, Alex King, Ali Kingston, Barney Smith, Carlijn life. To the wonderful people of Bangladesh, including Simons, David Butler, David Martin, Edward Aitken, Enayet, Murshed, Taufiq, Rafiq, Swapan, Jameel and Frank Francis, George Hart, Jane Green, Jody Martin, Halim for their invaluable support along the way. To Julie Clarkson, Kath Gardiner, Katherine Chiu, Laura friends in Dhaka, including Farhan, Thomas, Rose- Gispert, Loredana Ducco, Marcos Mendonca, Max anne, Keya, Arnob, Samir and Nadeem for sharing Steinacher, Roberta Haas, Stefano Dalmonte, Steven their own insights into Bangladesh. And most of all, Haas to Roshni, for her unending encouragement, patience and support. WRITER THANKS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Paul Clammer Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson In Dhaka, thanks to Mostafizur Rahman Jewel for BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the his assistance and friendship, and to my co-author Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Anirban Mahapatra for coffee-fuelled strategy meet- Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. ings. In Chittagong, thanks to Didarul Islam Didar for his advice, and help with hill tribes permits. In Cox’s Cover photograph: Royal Bengal tiger, Sundarbans Bazar, thank you to Jafar Alam for the insights into National Park, Neelsky/Shutterstock © the Bangla surf scene. At my desk, long-time editor Joe Bindloss deserves thanks and patience for more than the usual number of questions as new systems were rolled out. Finally, thanks and love to Robyn, who wasn’t a sidekick for this trip, but remains the best one everywhere else. 186 BEHIND THE SCENES and Stuart Butler. This guide- Assisting Editors Judith THIS BOOK book was produced by the Bamber, Kate James, Jodie This 8th edition of Lonely following: Martire, Rosie Nicholson Planet’s Bangladesh guide- Destination Editor Joe Cover Researcher Naomi book was researched and Bindloss Parker written by Paul Clammer and Product Editor Luna Soo Thanks to Shahara Ahmed, Anirban Mahapatra, with the Senior Cartographer David Liz Heynes, Catherine Health chapter based on text Kemp Naghten, Kirsten Rawlings, written by Dr Trish Bachelor. Angela Tinson, Lauren Welli- Book Designer Michael Buick The previous two editions were come, Tracy Whitmey, Amanda Senior Editors Andi Jones, written by Daniel McCrohan Williamson Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 187 Index A beaches 16 health 174 Comilla 122-4, 123 accessible travel 160 Cox’s Bazar 117 history 142, 145, 147 consulates 161-2 accommodation 160-1, Kuakata 81 border crossings 24-7 costs 15 180, see also individual St Martin’s Island 120 budgeting 15, see also costs accommodation 160 locations Benapole 25-6 Buriganga River 29-30, 36 food 162 activities 18-20, 161, see Bengal tigers 9, 69, 148, 9 Burimari 26 Cox’s Bazar 10, 117-20, 118 also individual activities Bengali language 179-84 bus travel 169-70, 171 craft 58, 153-4 Adivasi people 59, 109-10, business hours 163 111, 146, 158 Bengali New Year 19 credit cards 163 AIDS 175 Bhawal National Park 62 cricket 50, 157 air travel bicycle travel, see cycling C crime 164 to/from Bangladesh 168 birds 149-50 car travel 164, 170-1, 183 crocodiles 69, 71, 73 within Bangladesh 169 birdwatching cell phones 14, 165 culture 140-1, 157-8 airports 15, 168 books 149 cha 156 currency 14, 163 Akhaura 25 Sunamganj 131 Chakma Islands 115 customs regulations 161 amoebic dysentery 177 Sundarbans National chars 70, 81, 89 Park 69-70 cycle-rickshaws 5, 13, 41-2, animals 148-50, see also children, travel with 161 Birisiri 62 54, 154, 171, 5, 13 individual species China Clay Hills 30, 62 Bishwa Ijtema 18 Dhaka 54 architecture 39, 84, 95, 97 Chittagong 102-7, 104 boat tours 30, 42, 130 cycling 134-5, 169, 183 area codes 15, 165 accomodation 103-5 boat trips 9, 11, 12, 16, cyclones 149 arts 152-4, see also activities 102-3 music 28-30, 171, 9, 11, 12, see also Rocket steamers entertainment 106 ATMs 163 Buriganga River 29-30 food 105 D auto-rickshaws 171 dangers, see safety China Clay Hills 30, 62 sights 102 deforestation 151 Chittagong 106 travel to/from 106-7 dengue fever 174 B Dhaka 42-3 travel within 107 departure tax 26 Bagerhat 12, 73-5, 74 Dhaka to Hularhat 29 Chittagong Division 32, 100-24, Dhaka 11, 31, 34-54, 35, 38, baksheesh 163 Fatra Char 81 101 accommodation 100 40, 44, 8, 11 Banaripara 80 Jamuna River 89 climate 100 accommodation 34, 43-7 Bandarban 111-14, 112 Kaptai Lake 30, 114 food 100 activities 41-3 Barisal 78-80, 79 Maheskhali Island 30, 121-2 highlights 101 climate 34 Barisal Division 32, Mongla 71 drinking & nightlife 49-50 78-81, 64 Ratargul 12, 130 itineraries 23, 23 entertainment 50 accommodation 63 Sangu River 30, 111-12 travel seasons 100 festivals 43 climate 63 Sunamganj Wetlands Chittagong Hill Tracts 10, food 34, 48-9 food 63 30, 131 107-17, 146, 10 highlights 35 highlights 64 Sundarbans National Chokoria Game Reserve 121-2 travel seasons 63 Park 29, 69 history 36 churches bathrooms 165 Bodo Kuthi 86 medical services 52 Armenian Church of the Bauls 77, 153 Boga Lake 113 orientation 36 Holy Resurrection 38 safety 51 bazaars, see markets & Bogra 89-91, 90 St Paul’s Catholic bazaars shopping 50-1 Boisabi 19 Church 71 sights 36-40 books 140, see also cinema 153 literature tourist information 51-2 Map Pages 000 climate 14, 18-20 Photo Pages birdwatching 149 tours 43 000 CNGs 171 188 Dhaka continued G Islam, Kazi Nazrul 19, 152 Mymensingh 59 travel to/from 52-4 gardens, see parks & itineraries 21-3 New Market 51 travel within 54 gardens Shankharia Bazar 37 weather 34 Garo people 59 J Tribal Bazar 111 Dhaka Division 31, Gaud 26-7, 88-9 Jamuna River 89 measles 176 55-62, 56 gay travellers 162 Japanese B measures 167 INDEX climate 55 geography 148 encephalitis 176 media 140 highlights 56 giardiasis 177 Jessore 75-7, 76 mediacl services 174 travel seasons 55 mobile phones 14, 165 D-M Dhaka monasteries University 39 H K Aggameda Haatibandha 113 Kahn, Louis 39 Dhamrai 58-9 Khyang 117 Hasina, Sheikh 140 Kantanagar Temple 97 diarrhoea 177 Bana Vihara health 173-8 Kaptai Lake 30, 114-15 Dinajpur 97-9, 98 Monastery 115 books 174 disabilities, travellers Karamjal Forest Station 71 Dhatu Jadi 111 diseases 174-7 with 160 Khulna 65-8, 66 Somapuri Vihara 93 environmental hazards diving 120 Khulna Division 32, money 14, 15, 163 177-8 drinking water 151, 178 65-78, 64 moneychangers 163 insurance 173 drinks 135, 156 accommodation 62 internet resources 174 Mongla 71-3, 72 driving, see car travel, climate 63 services 174 mosques 37 motorcycle travel food 63 vaccinations 173-4 Bagerhat 12, 73, 74, drugs 162 highlights 64 75, 13 heatstroke 178 Dublar Char 70 travel seasons 63 Chhoto Sona hepatitis 175 Dutt, Michael Kuakata 81 Masjid 88 hiking 13, 17 Madhusudan 65 Kushtia 77-8 Darasbari Mosque 88-9 Bandarban 111, 113 kuthis 86 Goaldi Mosque 57-8 Chittagong Hill Tracts Khania Dighi Mosque 88 E 108-9, 110, 113 economy 141 Nine-Domed DC Hill 103 L electricity 161 Mosque 74-5 Fairy Hill 103 lakes elephants 122 Ronvijoypur Mosque 74 Srimangal 136 Boga Lake 113 Shait Gumbad embassies 161-2 Kaptai Lake 30, 114 Hili 26 Mosque 73, 13 embroidery 153-4 Ram Sagar 97 history 142-7 Star Mosque 37-8 emergencies 15, 181 Sukh Sagar 99 British rule 143-4 mosquitos 176 environment 148-51 Lalbagh Fort 37 Buddhism 142-3 motorcycle travel 170-1 environmental Independence 146 Lalon Festival 18, 77-8 issues 141, 150-1 movies 153 Islam 143 language 14, 157, 179-84 etiquette 158 Mowdok Taung 109 Partition 144 legal matters 162-3 food 156 Mt Keokradong 108 War of Liberation 144-5 lesbian travellers 162 mosques 37 Muktagacha 61-2 hitchhiking 171 LGBT travellers 162 events 18-20, 43, 97 Muktagacha Rajbari 61 HIV 175 literature 43, 152-3, see exchange rates 15 also books museums Holi 18 Lowacherra National Bagerhat Museum 73-4 holidays 164 Park 133-4 Bandarban Museum 111 F hoolock gibbons 133, 134, Ethnological Fakirs 77, 153 136, 13 Museum 102 Fatra Char 81 hotels 160, see also M Kuthibari 77 ferries, see boat trips individual locations Madhu Kunj 65 Liberation War festivals 18-20, 43, 97 Hum Hum Falls 136 Maha Raas Leela 97 Museum 38-9 film 153 Mahasthangarh 91-3 Mahasthangarh floods 150 Maheskhali