Southern Hemisphere Summer Spectacular
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KLWines.com | 800.247.5987 July 6, 2020 Southern Hemisphere Summer Spectacular JULY 6, 2020 FEATURES 2 Malbec Terroir 5 Versatile Uruguay 8 More Than 3 Marlborough 2019 6 Carignan; Sémillon Malbec 4 Value, Quality 7 Chile’s Clos de Luz Look to the Southern Horizon for Quality and Value By Thomas Smith Years ago, whenever I spoke to customers about wines from the America, South Africa, New Zealand, and Australia. For example, Southern Hemisphere, I invariably ended up making comparisons anyone will tell you that no Sauvignon Blanc on earth tastes like to the great wines of Europe. How can you not? To say “Burgundian” Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. It has powerful aromatics and alluring sounds so sophisticated and elegant. It gets the heart racing, pushing you tropical aromas-especially in the phenomenal 2019 vintage, which has into a state of anticipation, as though your next $20 Pinot Noir might just been released. In Chile, Carmenere is the country’s signature grape, be a Richebourg in disguise. And honestly? I drink more New Zealand and three-generation producer Clos de Luz is crafting stunning wines Pinot Noir than anything else, because the wine quality is phenomenal, from the Almahue Valley. We also take a look at wines of the up-and- its character is distinctive, and it dramatically over-delivers on price. coming wine region of Uruguay, whose tiny wine scene is starting to Every. Single. Time. garner global attention. And don’t miss our spotlight on what makes Hunter Valley Sémillon one of the truly unique wines of the world, as In this newsletter, we want to showcase wines from the Southern well as a selection of some of the best wines you’ll find anywhere south Hemisphere that are standing out from the crowd. These are wines that of $20. So explore, broaden your tasting horizons, and I hope you find could only be from the places in which they are grown. They display these wines as utterly compelling and delicious as I do. characteristics that distinguish them from other wines across the globe, and are examples of the exceptional quality being produced in South Thomas Smith is K&L’s buyer for NZ, Australia, and South Africa. 2019 Mount Edward Pinot Noir Rosé Central 2017 Susana Balbo “Crios” Malbec 2018 Boekenhoutskloof “The Wolftrap” Otago ($14.99) Mount Edward’s Mendoza ($9.99) A longtime go-to Red Blend Western Cape ($9.99) Duncan Forsyth has a reputation for Malbec here at K&L, this is built Cofermented Syrah and Viognier crafting some of the best Pinot Noir like an easy-drinking Cabernet from estate vineyards bring savory in Central Otago. But their big secret with dark and rich red fruits, just a and floral components to the is the rosé, which is made from the little Argentine spice, earth, easy wine, while Mourvèdre from same premium fruit that goes into tannins, and a clean finish, this Stellenbosch adds structure and their $30-plus Pinot Noirs. Bone is an uncomplicated, delicious complexity. A bold, spicy, and dry, the is bright and refreshing, wine for all occasions—we like versatile red that continues to be full of strawberry and rhubarb fruit, it with barbecue, kebabs, or taco one of our best sellers from with a creamy finish. Tuesdays. 93 DC, 90 JS, 90 RP South Africa. Cover: The sky at harvest in New Zealand, 2019. (Photo courtesy of Fromm Winery) Key: 90 Critic Score on 100-Point Scale RP Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate WS Wine Spectator JS James Suckling WE Wine Enthusiast VN Antonio Galloni’s Vinous JD Jeb Dunnuck DC Decanter JH Halliday Wine Companion BC Bob Campbell SK Sam Kim Wine Orbit Now that’s terroir: wild horses and the Andes mountains in the Uco Valley wine region. (Shutterstock) SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE SOUTHERN Mendoza 2018: A Trio of Malbec Terroirs By Kirk Walker I was excited to take over the position as K&L’s wine buyer for a floral, almost violet, note. The tannins are polished and South America. For years, I had watched more and more of these supple, and it has a long finish with a lingering minerality— wines come to the market with more and more specific appellations, that’s Gualtallary. 95 JS especially from Argentina. I loved that the winemakers were now in 2018 Riccitelli Malbec “The Party” Lujan de Cuyo positions where they were comfortable and excited to showcase the ($22.99) Unintentionally, my next wine is from another variety that Mendoza has to offer; loved that I now had the vehicle second-generation winemaker—Matías Riccitelli. The to talk about terroir as opposed to just producer, varietal, and price surname is not as famous in the States as in Argentina, point. And I was excited because I knew I was going to learn more. but his father was the winemaker at Catena for decades. But what I was not expecting to discover was that I love Malbec. His passion is for high-elevation vineyards, purity, and When I was hired at K&L, the wines that I loved the most were delicacy. The “party” is a party for the senses. All the fruit German, Austrian, Italian, and Champagne. Mostly white, all high is from Lujan de Cujo, and is fermented whole cluster, foot acid, a lot of them precious, and mostly obscure. Malbec was a party trodden, and fermented in concrete vessels. This wine is wine, something to drink but not think about. It’s hard not to like, pretty, bright, and very complex. Floral, with red fruits and that could be why I overlooked it. I also think that in the many and berries, herbs, spice, and minerality, this wine has the tension of years since I started at K&L, viticulture and winemaking has changed a wine from a much cooler climate. It’s unmistakably Mendoza, but in Argentina, as well as consumer preference. Malbec is aromatic. there seems to be a hint of the Loire to it. This is an aptly named wine. There is lift and a floral component to it. It’s mostly dark fruited, but 2018 Zuccardi “Concreto” Malbec Paraje Altamira ($34.99) that depends more on terroir and style. The easy tannins I have grown The final wine of this trio is from a family that has a long heritage to really appreciate, more than enough to savor with some tri tip, but of winemaking, also. Sebastián Zuccardi is a highly regarded and soft enough to unwind with at the end of a long day by itself. And, much-awarded winemaker. He makes several wines, very importantly for me, it is a varietal that expresses its terroir. I love from value to single vineyard, that always receive very that moving into this new decade, we will be talking about the terroir good grades. Paraje Altamira is one of the premier and Malbec, not just Malbec. terroirs of The Uco Valley, with elevation over 3,000 A perfect place to start my quick highlight of Malbec is the 2018 feet and very stony soils. These stones are all covered Vaglio “Aggie” Malbec Uco Valley ($18.99). Why perfect? Vaglio is with calcium carbonate. Unlike the chalky soils of a passion project by José Lovaglio Balbo—Balbo, like Europe, the white rocks of Paraje Altamira are coated Susana Balbo, one of the most important people in with calcium—think mocha on a truffle, rather than the modern Argentinean wine industry. Jose’s day job deep beds of rock. The chalky stones do what they do is as winemaker at Crios. His passion is to highlight in Europe, except the rest of the soil is alluvial. This is the terroir of Mendoza. The Aggie comes from such a fascinating place for terroir! Concreto is crafted Gualtallary, one of the most acclaimed subregions to explicitly express these stony soils. This wine is in Tupungato. It is high elevation, almost 4,000 feet, fascinating and delicious. It has a cool climate Old and its soils have lots of calcium carbonate in them. World mountain wine feel. It is very aromatic with wild flowers and Jose’s winemaking is minimal intervention, but not crushed dark berries. There are hints of wild herbs and savory almost hands off. The wine, which spends eight months in salty minerality. It just gets better the longer it’s open, and has a finish 40% new French oak, captures both the new and the that goes and goes. Please decant, and this wine will take you on a old Mendoza. The texture is ripe and pure, and the journey to the Andes. 95 RP, 93 WE wine shows classic plum and dark berry aromas with Kirk Walker is K&L’s buyer for South America, Spain, and Portugal. 2 Get up-to-the-minute inventory at KLWines.com Marlborough 2019: The Vintage We’ve Been Waiting For By Thomas Smith SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE SOUTHERN A few months ago, something interesting happened. As our New Last year’s best-selling Sauvignon is back. The Zealand buyer, I spend a lot of time tasting wines from Marlborough, 2019 Momo Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough but starting in December the string of Sauvignon Blancs coming ($14.99) is completely organic and focused across my desk were tasting remarkably, almost profoundly good. on fruit from areas surrounding Wairau, Like, really, really, good. And every one of these wines was from the the heart of Marlborough. This is the best 2019 vintage, which is turning out to be the best vintage in recent rendition of this wine I have seen yet, years, and quite possibly the best of the decade.