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Southern Hemisphere Summer Spectacular

JULY 6, 2020 FEATURES 2 5 Versatile Uruguay 8 More Than 3 Marlborough 2019 6 ; Sémillon Malbec 4 Value, Quality 7 Chile’s Clos de Luz Look to the Southern Horizon for Quality and Value By Thomas Smith

Years ago, whenever I spoke to customers about from the America, South Africa, New Zealand, and Australia. For example, Southern Hemisphere, I invariably ended up making comparisons anyone will tell you that no on earth tastes like to the great wines of Europe. How can you not? To say “Burgundian” Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. It has powerful aromatics and alluring sounds so sophisticated and elegant. It gets the heart racing, pushing you tropical aromas-especially in the phenomenal 2019 , which has into a state of anticipation, as though your next $20 might just been released. In Chile, Carmenere is the country’s signature , be a Richebourg in disguise. And honestly? I drink more New Zealand and three-generation producer Clos de Luz is crafting stunning wines Pinot Noir than anything else, because the quality is phenomenal, from the Almahue Valley. We also take a look at wines of the up-and- its character is distinctive, and it dramatically over-delivers on price. coming wine region of Uruguay, whose tiny wine scene is starting to Every. Single. Time. garner global attention. And don’t miss our spotlight on what makes Hunter Valley Sémillon one of the truly unique wines of the world, as In this newsletter, we want to showcase wines from the Southern well as a selection of some of the best wines you’ll find anywhere south Hemisphere that are standing out from the crowd. These are wines that of $20. So explore, broaden your tasting horizons, and I hope you find could only be from the places in which they are grown. They display these wines as utterly compelling and delicious as I do. characteristics that distinguish them from other wines across the globe, and are examples of the exceptional quality being produced in South Thomas Smith is K&L’s buyer for NZ, Australia, and South Africa.

2019 Mount Edward Pinot Noir Central 2017 Susana Balbo “Crios” Malbec 2018 Boekenhoutskloof “The Wolftrap” Otago ($14.99) Mount Edward’s Mendoza ($9.99) A longtime go-to Red Blend Western Cape ($9.99) Duncan Forsyth has a reputation for Malbec here at K&L, this is built Cofermented and crafting some of the best Pinot Noir like an easy-drinking Cabernet from estate bring savory in Central Otago. But their big secret with dark and rich red fruits, just a and floral components to the is the rosé, which is made from the little Argentine spice, earth, easy wine, while Mourvèdre from same premium fruit that goes into tannins, and a clean finish, this Stellenbosch adds structure and their $30-plus Pinot Noirs. Bone is an uncomplicated, delicious complexity. A bold, spicy, and dry, the is bright and refreshing, wine for all occasions—we like versatile red that continues to be full of strawberry and rhubarb fruit, it with barbecue, kebabs, or taco one of our best sellers from with a creamy finish. Tuesdays. 93 DC, 90 JS, 90 RP South Africa.

Cover: The sky at in New Zealand, 2019. (Photo courtesy of Fromm )

Key: 90 Critic Score on 100-Point Scale RP Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate WS Wine Spectator JS James Suckling WE Wine Enthusiast VN Antonio Galloni’s Vinous JD Jeb Dunnuck DC JH Halliday Wine Companion BC Bob Campbell SK Sam Kim Wine Orbit Now that’s terroir: wild horses and the Andes mountains in the wine region. (Shutterstock)

SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE SOUTHERN Mendoza 2018: A Trio of Malbec By Kirk Walker

I was excited to take over the position as K&L’s wine buyer for a floral, almost violet, note. The tannins are polished and South America. For years, I had watched more and more of these supple, and it has a long finish with a lingering minerality— wines come to the market with more and more specific appellations, that’s Gualtallary. 95 JS especially from Argentina. I loved that the winemakers were now in 2018 Riccitelli Malbec “The Party” Lujan de Cuyo positions where they were comfortable and excited to showcase the ($22.99) Unintentionally, my next wine is from another variety that Mendoza has to offer; loved that I now had the vehicle second-generation winemaker—Matías Riccitelli. The to talk about terroir as opposed to just producer, , and price surname is not as famous in the States as in Argentina, point. And I was excited because I knew I was going to learn more. but his father was the winemaker at Catena for decades. But what I was not expecting to discover was that I love Malbec. His passion is for high-elevation vineyards, purity, and When I was hired at K&L, the wines that I loved the most were delicacy. The “party” is a party for the senses. All the fruit German, Austrian, Italian, and . Mostly white, all high is from Lujan de Cujo, and is fermented whole cluster, foot acid, a lot of them precious, and mostly obscure. Malbec was a party trodden, and fermented in concrete vessels. This wine is wine, something to drink but not think about. It’s hard not to like, pretty, bright, and very complex. Floral, with red fruits and that could be why I overlooked it. I also think that in the many and berries, herbs, spice, and minerality, this wine has the tension of years since I started at K&L, and has changed a wine from a much cooler climate. It’s unmistakably Mendoza, but in Argentina, as well as consumer preference. Malbec is aromatic. there seems to be a hint of the Loire to it. This is an aptly named wine. There is lift and a floral component to it. It’s mostly dark fruited, but 2018 Zuccardi “Concreto” Malbec Paraje Altamira ($34.99) that depends more on terroir and style. The easy tannins I have grown The final wine of this trio is from a family that has a long heritage to really appreciate, more than enough to savor with some tri tip, but of winemaking, also. Sebastián Zuccardi is a highly regarded and soft enough to unwind with at the end of a long day by itself. And, much-awarded winemaker. He makes several wines, very importantly for me, it is a varietal that expresses its terroir. I love from value to single , that always receive very that moving into this new decade, we will be talking about the terroir good grades. Paraje Altamira is one of the premier and Malbec, not just Malbec. terroirs of The Uco Valley, with elevation over 3,000 A perfect place to start my quick highlight of Malbec is the 2018 feet and very stony soils. These stones are all covered Vaglio “Aggie” Malbec Uco Valley ($18.99). Why perfect? Vaglio is with calcium carbonate. Unlike the chalky soils of a passion project by José Lovaglio Balbo—Balbo, like Europe, the white rocks of Paraje Altamira are coated Susana Balbo, one of the most important people in with calcium—think mocha on a truffle, rather than the modern Argentinean wine industry. Jose’s day job deep beds of rock. The chalky stones do what they do is as winemaker at Crios. His passion is to highlight in Europe, except the rest of the soil is alluvial. This is the terroir of Mendoza. The Aggie comes from such a fascinating place for terroir! Concreto is crafted Gualtallary, one of the most acclaimed subregions to explicitly express these stony soils. This wine is in Tupungato. It is high elevation, almost 4,000 feet, fascinating and delicious. It has a cool climate Old and its soils have lots of calcium carbonate in them. World mountain wine feel. It is very aromatic with wild flowers and Jose’s winemaking is minimal intervention, but not crushed dark berries. There are hints of wild herbs and savory almost hands off. The wine, which spends eight months in salty minerality. It just gets better the longer it’s open, and has a finish 40% new French , captures both the new and the that goes and goes. Please decant, and this wine will take you on a old Mendoza. The texture is ripe and pure, and the journey to the Andes. 95 RP, 93 WE wine shows classic plum and dark berry aromas with Kirk Walker is K&L’s buyer for South America, Spain, and Portugal.

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- - from two sites: their 95 BC, 91 RP, 91 WE RP, 9591 BC, 91 94 SK, 92 BC Get complete tasting notes at KLWines.com at notes tasting Get complete aging. The acidity adds a does a fine of job walking the is completely organic and focused Last year’s best-selling Sauvignon is back. The Sauvignon Momo 2019 Blanc Marlborough ($14.99) fruiton from areas surrounding Wairau, the heart Marlborough. of This is the best rendition this of wine seen I have yet, displaying bright expressions passion of fruit, citrus, and crisp herbaceous notes. The palate is full and fresh, with weight and texture that make serious more much it than its price. A small family-run Whare operation, Te Ra is simply the best producer in Marlbor ough Jason right and now. Anna Flowerday handcraft their TWR Whare 2019 (Te Sauvignon Ra) ($19.99) Marlborough Blanc exceptionally well-farmed vineyard home in Renwick, and a second vineyard located in the Valley to Awatere the south. This is the bestof both. With classicnotes guava,of grapefruit, papaya, with elderflower, lime, and wet stones, this competes with the best Sauvignon Blancs made anywhere. Kevin boutique Judd’s winery in Marlborough has been creating best some the of Sauvignon region’s Blancs. knowsJudd a thing two or about Marlborough, having spent nearly two decades the at helm of Cloudy Bay before starting his passion project focusing incredibly on high-quality Sauvignon Blanc from a handful the of best vineyards in the Wairau Plain. Tropical and vibrant, the Greywacke2019 Sauvignon Blanc Marlbor ough ($19.99) tightrope between compelling, aromatic intensity with rich, powerful fruit. full It’s of classic bright notes kiwi, of stone fruit, citrus, and tropical fruit, while the palate has the rich, almost creamy texture from exceptional Judd’s skill with sur lie razor-like cut that counterpoints the texture the of palate, bringing the wine perfectly into balance. Fromm typically earns headlines more as the premier producer Pinot of Noir in Marlborough, of one but the best-kept secrets in New Zealand is that the 2019 Fromm Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough ($19.99) is every as bit good as their Pinot This100% Noir. organic Sauvignon Blanc shows focused a leaner, more intensity than many its of vintage counterparts. Fuji apple, grapefruit, lime, and brilliant minerality make this an incredibly refreshing wine, perfect sipping for a summeron day. 94 SK, 93 BC, RP 91

Ready for harvest at Fromm. Wine Spectator gaveSpectator Wine - WS 93 of theof vintage. A few months ago, something interesting happened. As our New Zealand I spend time of a lot buyer, tasting wines from Marlborough, startingbut in December the string Sauvignon of Blancs coming across desk my tasting were remarkably, almost profoundly good. Like, really, really, good. And every these of one wines was from the vintage,2019 which is turning to be out the best vintage in recent years, and quite possibly the best the of decade. Recent in Marlbor ough struggled. have In 2018 saw twowe cyclones dump rain across the valleys the at critical moment of harvest. Before that, exceptionally cool conditions in 2017 pushed harvest back weeks, and struggled to get ripe. not to That’s say that these vintages produced poor quality wines. I have absolutely enjoyed wines from these vintages. But the conditions the of 2019 growing season have definitely raised bar. the Marlborough’s vintage 2019 began with a little rain, moved into but an uninterrupted span of warm, dry summer days throughout the growing season. The grapes matured quickly, pushing their way to full phenolic ripeness of one at the earliest days record. on “The summer conditions beingled to 2019 our earliest harvest ever with our first fruit into the winery1st on March,” explains Whare Anna from Ra. Te Flowerday, “Theresultant wines great have depth flavour of and fleshinesswith purity of fruit, bright aromatics and ripe, juicy acidity.” I couldn’t agree with more this assessment. brighter, are The 2019s balanced.more full There’s ripenesshere with classic Marlborough expressions of tropical fruit and soaring aromatics, complemented a beautiful by acid balance. This might be the of one very best vintages seen we’ve these for wines, and the quality is evident in the glass. This is Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc its at most vibrant self. A perfect example this of is the Allan 2019 Scott Sauvignon Blanc ($13.99). this of one their second-highest scores a New for Zealand Sauvignon Blanc—ever. In fact, the only two wines scored above are it nearly twice the price. This is exactly what I expect from Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Full bright of tropical notes, green pea, lively acidity, and laser focus. Allan Scott has quickly turned to be the out of one breakout stars Marlborough 2019: Been For Waiting TheMarlborough Vintage We’ve 2019: By Thomas Smith The harvest wrapped up in Marlborough, TWR’s “wee woolly weeders” get back to work in the vineyard. (Photo: Te Whare Ra)

SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE SOUTHERN Top Picks in Value and Quality from NZ and Oz By Thomas Smith

One thing the wines of New Zealand, South Africa, and Australia Australia’s Yarra Valley is located just outside of don’t get enough credit for is value. At the $20-and-under mark, Melbourne and is home to some of Australia’s best these countries are producing some of the best wines you will find Pinot Noir and . Subject to a cooling effect anywhere. Whether it’s Australian Pinot Noir or New Zealand from Port Phillip Bay, the Yarra has ideal conditions , we have a substantial collection of wines from for cool-climate varieties. Helen’s Hill is one of my these countries that outperform expectations, every time. favorite producers for great values because they craft If you’re looking for a new house red, or just a weeknight their entry-level series in the same way as their most white, make sure to check out our selection of wines from expensive single-vineyard offerings. 2018 Helen’s Hill the Southern Hemisphere. Here are some of my favorites: “Ingram Road” Chardonnay Yarra Valley Victoria ($14.99) starts with hand-harvested fruit from estate Top Picks in Varietal Value vineyards. Fermented entirely with native yeasts, with I’ve already said plenty in this newsletter regarding the an élevage in new French oak, this is off-the-charts terrific 2019 vintage in Marlborough for Sauvignon delicious with flavors of lemon curd, peach, and apricot. Blanc. But I can’t resist also calling attention to the Full and weighted on the palate, this is an incredibly tasty Chardonnay 2019 Fromm Spätlese Riesling Marlborough ($19.99). for a weeknight dinner. 94 JH I absolutely adore this wine. It’s incredibly versatile, and unreasonably delicious— I personally drank four High Quality Reds from New Zealand, Australia six-packs of the 2018. It’s that good. Don’t be turned 2015 TWR (Te Whare Ra) “SV5182 Single Vineyard” away by the term spätlese. Yes, this has a little residual Pinot Noir Marlborough ($39.99) Yes, please. Brimming sugar and a touch sweetness on the palate, but it’s incredibly well with red cherry fruit along with earthy undertones, this balanced by the acidity. Think of biting into a fresh green apple, is aged to perfection with plenty of weight and power. complemented by elderflower and wet stones. A gorgeous wine from This marks a stunning achievement for Marlborough one of Marlborough’s best boutique producers. 93 JS Pinot Noir that you don’t want to miss. 97 JS, 96 SK New Zealand’s Central Otago tends to steal the show for 2018 John Duval “Entity” Shiraz Barossa Valley New Zealand Pinot. But for bright, focused, cool-climate South Australia ($29.99) John Duval is an Australian Pinot Noir, it’s impossible to beat the value coming out winemaking legend. Entity is his flagship wine, sourced of North Canterbury. Greystone is a top producer here from the best sites in the Barossa and Eden Valleys that and is named for the grey-colored, limestone-rich soils only someone with his pedigree can secure. Treated with minimal in their vineyards. Limestone soils are a common oak, this Shiraz perfectly balances fruit with acidity, while black plum, thread among great Pinot Noir— from Burgundy in charcoal, and dark cherry liqueur abound. This is what the best of France to Calera in California. The 2017 Nor’Wester Australian Shiraz tastes like. An incredible value. 97 JH by Greystone Pinot Noir North Canterbury ($19.99) 2018 Te Mata “Bullnose” Syrah Hawke’s Bay ($39.99) Founded in is a great example of exceptional Pinot Noir made in 1895, Te Mata is New Zealand’s most historic wine estate. Bullnose is conditions perfectly suited to this variety. There are their top Syrah, displaying all the hallmarks of Hawkes Bay: incred- three major components here: black fruit, earthiness, ible density, with black fruits complemented by black pepper and and savory. They interplay in a way that brings a ton of rosemary. Smooth and supple, this is a wine you can open tonight depth to the glass, with black cherry, black raspberry, forest floor, and without a second thought, but collectors take note: a few years in the leather all playing off one another in each sip. 93 BC, 91 JS cellar will only add to its mesmerizing bouquet. 97 SK

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is a wine thatreally can come WE WS Check out more staff product reviews at KLWines.com at product staff reviews more out Check is a greatGarzón Reserva 2017 ($17.99) Artesana2017 Tannat-- Reserva is a ($15.99) The introduction to Tannat as a varietal wine. This thick- skinned grape thrives in the climate. lives It to its up reputation being of a big, intense wine with lots of dark fruit, flowers, a and savory, mineral element. This has lot a in common with the intense,more modern wines the of Iberian Peninsula. A grilled meat wine, the it’s ideal match the for local cuisine, and summertime outdoor cooking in general. 92 JS, 91 Tannat can be an exceptional soloist, put but togetherit with some other varieties, and then the fun really starts. Alianza Noble The 2018 ($12.99) Marselan-Tannat-Merlot from nowhere else Uruguay but favorite my of one things (that’s to taste in the This wine). of world drinks like love child the of a Côtes Rhônedu and Douro conceived Superior, in Punta del Este. has It the easy drinking and effortlessnessof the CdR, and the dark fruit intensity the of Douro. The thatblend feels like more Bordeaux—which is surprising, looking theat varieties. of blend Tannat gives the structure, while the Merlot rounds and softens everything, and the Zinbrings some intrigue. Unexpected and so fun. much 91 ) get most of the time In Uruguay,In Old traditions—and World rocks—meet New freedom World to experiment. (Photo: Bodega Garzón) W&S , in Uruguay). (who am I kidding— (who is delicious and exemplary, various on levels, Bodega Garzón Albariño 2019 Reserva Uruguay When asked do a Southern to Hemisphere newsletter, the very first thing that I thought about was Uruguay. That’s right, fourth- the largest wine-producing region the on South American continent. And three things immediately jump to when me out I think the of country: Tannat, blends, and Gondwana. Time and dirt are major components wine,of and I sometimes From Gondwana with Love: Easy-Drinking Gondwana with Love: From Wines for the Parrilla By Kirk Walker distracted them. by Gondwana was the supercontinent formed in large part South by America and Africa. This is a literal connection to the categories that Thomas buy I and wine from. The Rio de Platala Craton, whichforms the bedrock for large partsof Uruguay, is an ancient part thatof supercontinent. Some rocks here been have dated billion back 1.7 years. While that is as not as old some places in Australia and Africa, when these rocks deep, Old World get expressed in wines, modern, New World that’s what makes these categories so fun. much Uruguay is an almost ideal wine growingregion, and growers, free regulations,from Old World grow what they please —that’s why Tannat is the most important varietal wine in the country Someright the of best now. regions are like California’s Santa Barbara, except asnot dry—and with better grilling and barbecue wood-fired parrilla (or The ($17.99) why Uruguayof is so exciting. The sandy, granitic soils and the moderating maritime climate are perfect thisfor variety—in Old World fact, the same, ideal conditions this for variety back in Rias Baixas, Spain. The wine is crisp and mineral-driven, but has a ripe peach component, with citrusy accents. 91 Carignan: Chile’s Other “C” Wine By Kirk Walker

There are many great wines from Chile that start with the letter exciting things happening on the fringes of the wine world. It’s like a “C,” most notably, Carmenere and . But only glimpse into the past through a modern-day glass of wine! one of them started a movement: Carignan. Spanish in origin, hailing The2016 Garage Wine Company “Vigno” Carignane Maule Valley from the same neighborhoods that gave us Garnacha (), ($37.99) is one of the best introductions to the program that I have Carignan has several things going for it as a winegrape: it handles had recently. The wine is a blend of Carignan, with a little Garnacha heat and drought very well, and it thrives in really poor soils. and Mataro, from a cooler site in the foothills. The The Maule Valley, located some 150 miles South of Santiago, fits that Garage Wine Company was started as exactly as the description to a T. The dry coastal ranges here are home to lots of old name suggests, in a garage, by Derek Mossman, who vines, many of which are Carignan. The movement is VIGNO, which also is one of the founders of VIGNO. Mossman and

SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE SOUTHERN stands for Vignadores de Carignan. It started about 15 years ago his wife make less than 2,000 cases of wine a year. when a new generation of young winemakers discovered the riches It’s all wild ferment, with very minimal interven- of these old vines. In order to protect them, and support the farmers tion, but the wines are clean—there’s no funky stuff that have been maintaining these old vines, they created VIGNO. To happening here. This is a wine that feels at home carry the VIGNO label the wines must come from the Secano Interior in comparison to great Rhône blends. Think portion of Maule, on the eastern side of the Coastal Ranges. The Châteauneuf or Priorat; I think the latter is most wines have to come from dry farmed bush vines, and the blend has appropriate. This is high-toned, rich, aromatic, to be dominantly Carignan. I was introduced to these wines several spicy, and lively, a wine that gives something years ago and now I seek them out. Projects like this, where producers new every time you put your nose into the glass. actively seek out materials, often in overlooked regions (it has It’s great wine, it’s a crazy deal, but there’s not a a very Bedrock Wine Company feel to it for me), are some of the most lot of it. 97 RP

The Singular Wonder of Hunter Valley Sémillon By Thomas Smith

Let’s be real for a moment. Whenever we discuss “New World” with Thai curry or Szechuan stir-fry. But the incredible acidity of wines, i.e., wines made outside the centuries of winemaking tradition these wines also helps them age beautifully over time. Within five to in Europe, these wines are hopelessly compared to their European ten years, they transform, developing creamier texture, with flavors counterparts. This Pinot Noir is Burgundian; that Sauvignon Blanc of honeycomb, toasted almonds, and grilled brioche. In the world of tastes just like , this is a Mosel-style Riesling. Not only does wine, there is nothing like it. Here are some of my favorites: this lead one down a path of endless facsimile, it’s an unfair compar- The2018 Tyrrell’s Sémillon Hunter Valley ($19.99) marks the 160th ison for both parties, rather than embracing a wine for what it truly is. vintage from this historic property. Bright and balanced, this is a This is one of the reasons I adore Hunter Valley Sémillon, because of classic entrée for anyone curious about Sémillon. Having both a little its entirely singular nature. In other parts of the world, Sémillon is upfront fruit and a lean, mineral edge, this would nicely complement typically a blending component, like in Bordeaux where it is blended halibut steamed with lemon. 9 4 WE, 92 JH, 90 WS with Sauvignon Blanc or Muscadelle to create dry whites and sweet The De Iuliis family originally sold the fruit from their 50 acres dessert wines. Yet, through a series of unlikely events, Sémillon found vineyard to Tyrrell’s throughout the ’90s, until they decided to craft its way to Australia nearly 200 years ago, and has since become a wine their own wines, beginning in 2001. The 2018 De Iuliis Sémillon of its own tradition and style unlike any other. Hunter Valley ($19.99) is the boldest of our Hunter Valley selections. James Busby, the father of Australian viticulture, brought Sémillon With a texture like mineral water and an acidity like cuttings to New South Wales in 1825. Here, in the subregion of the lightning, this is no-holds-barred Sémillon that captures Hunter Valley, something remarkable occurs. Despite incredibly hot the spirit of Hunter Valley. 92 JS and wet conditions, Sémillon produces a wine of brighter acidity Finally, the 2019 Brokenwood Sémillon Hunter Valley and lighter body than in the cool, maritime climate of Bordeaux, a ($19.99) occupies a great middle ground between the two. phenomenon that wine writer has referred to as one of the Not shying away from power, this is a beautifully crafted wine world’s “great enigmas.” Sémillon with lemon sorbet, finger lime, and just a little The proof is in the glass. Low in alcohol, with pale color and off-the- bit of heft in its body. I’ve had these wines going back to charts acidity, these wines tend to have a two-fold nature. In their the 1990s and they age immaculately. So throw one in youth, characteristic bright acidity makes the wines bold and your cellar and forget about it. It could end up being one refreshing with notes of lime, citrus, and hay. This is my go-to pairing of the best surprises you’ll ever have. 95 JH

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91 RP 92 JS an argument it. for This

Online auctions are LIVE at KLWines.com at LIVE auctions are Online has to be the of one best Cabernets in the is so fun. much Malbec It’s from the other 2017 Clos de Luz2017 “Massal 1945” Malbec herbaceousness all feel related. The fruit hasbrighter,a purple, more dark berry quality than Cabernet. that on it’s But final point where Carmenerereally stands apart. Instead showing of with up green, unripe bell pepper character, Carmenere, when grown correctly, has a red, ripe or bell pepper quality—some even say paprika. The wine is cellared in barrique foudre and of various ages. Again, this wine is brightand aromatic, has but depth. Subtle spice, with earth and a mineral tones, back the vibrant, lifted fruits that range red from to that classic purple. full-bodied, It’s with depth and elegance. This is the wine that I want peoplejudge to all future Carmenere against. wineThemost of “K&L” their portfolio is the Clos de Luz2017 Arao Carménère Blend Rapel I say thisValley because ($15.99). the wine feels like Bordeaux—it has the balance and structure of the wines that I think first of when I thinkK&L.of And yet, taste doesn’t it like Bordeaux; tastes it like Almahue is has It bright, Valley. lifted dark berries, and red fruits. has It soft spice, with hintsmocha,of and coffee. The palate isclean and with dry, soft tannins, and enough richness to give some it heft. The wine bright,is poised, complex and elegant— that’s tough to accomplish this at price point. 92 JS Unfortunately, I am running space. of out I have But to mention a few last wines. Clos de Luz The 2017 “Massal 1945” Cabernet Sauvignon Rapel Valley ($19.99) good of a lot have wines We thestore for money. from California and France—this Cab combines the best both of those worlds. Ripe fruit, with structure, cedar, tobacco, earth, and a serious spice. It’s wine that take doesn’t itself too seriously. The ($19.99) side the of Andes! This is classic, charming Malbec, thebut fruit profile is different than its Argentinean cousins. starts It bright red, with some darker elements, and is aromatic, elegant and long. This awesomeis Malbec. Finally, there is Syrah. Like New Zealand, Chile’s thenot firstplace you think for of the variety. Clos the Syrah de Luz 2017 “Azuda” wow, But is Rapel Valley ($19.99) is a bright wine that displays lots the of fresh, mixed berries that the best have. There is a touch spice of and the but pepper, tannins are lush and round. Talk about charming. 93 JS

Light Up Your Palate with Chile’s Clos de Luz de Clos Chile’s with Palate Your Up Light KirkBy Walker Direct importing is a very important wine part business.K&L’s of been have directWe importing wines from Europe decades, for and in just under a decade, direct imports become have very important components to our Southern Hemisphere program, as well. Direct importing allows K&L to bring wines closer to our customers. Closer in knowledge about the region, the and producer, the wines. I would the have not passion that the for I have wines New of Zealand and Australia if the for wasn’t it fantastic producers direct we import. theBut, South I’m America and unfortunately, buyer, the markets are different. While those differences veryare interesting to me,they do get boring when comes it to writing newsletters that are meant to inspire, intrigue, and allure readers to explore new wines. Suffice it afterto say, thispreamble, over-long I was excited we when had the opportunity to start direct importing Clos de Luz. Clos de Luz is located in the help place Almahue on it To Valley. the in the it’s map, Central Valley appellation the of Rapel Valley. Bordered the on western side the by Coastal Ranges, and to the east theby Andes, this area has been long the of one most important wine regions in Chile. The biggest two subregions in Valley the Rapel are the Colchagua Valley and the Cachapoal The Valley. ValleyAlmahue issandwiched between these two regions, just south the of Cachapoal a warmRiver. It’s growing region, the but heat is bufferedby cool air descending from the Andes. Of particular importance the for wines are the alluvial soils with volcanic origins, The andfamily clay. of current Gabriel proprietor, Edwards, was the firstbring to modern viticulture into the valley in the 1930s. His grandmother, Luz, for whom the winery is named, planted the vineyard in which the “Massal” wines are sourced. When comes it to winemaking, Edward believes in “less is more.” His philosophies in more have common with the thanmovement with the larger commercial producers that dominate the region and country as a whole. believes He in freshness, and that is exactly what get you with his wines. There plentyis of ripe fruit and tannins, the but volcanic soils and the vines old bring a lift and vibrancy that most drinkers US are accustomed not to from Chilean wines. In order to obtain that freshness, uses he very little oak in the wines—just enough to round a rough edge there, here or and to bring a suppleness to the tannins. placeThe to start talking about the wines is Closthe de Luz “Massal 1945” Carménère Rapel Valley ($19.99). These could be oldest the ungrafted Carmenere vines in Chile, and probably the world. What was once planted mistakenly as of is one Merlot now the unique treasures Chile. of was It a fortunate mistake, too, since these soils are ideal for Carmenere—they produce do not the hyper-green wines that most were our of introductions to the varietal. Carmenere feels like belongs it in the Cabernet family: the fruit, the tannins, and the Harvest 2020 is long past in Argentina’s country. (Shutterstock) Last Word—There’s More than Malbec to Argentina By Kirk Walker

It’s too easy to reduce Argentina’s wine to Malbec alone. But that’s 2018 Ver Sacrum “GSM” Rhône Blend Chacayes like reducing to Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and ($17.99) A Rhône blend from Argentina! A mix of Pinot Noir. While Malbec is the main export, Argentina has a rich and high-elevation Grenache and friends, it’s ripe but cool. diverse wine scene. The French grapes Malbec, Bonarda (Douce Noir), Berries, cherries, herbs de Andes, a savory earthiness, and Béquignol are more widely planted here than in their country of and spice. This cannot be beat for the price. origin. The long, warm growing season is optimal for Rhône varieties. 2019 Escala Humana “Livverá” Bequignol And of course, you are going to find the big three that were mentioned El Zampal ($21.99) Don’t know Béquignol? earlier. There are a lot of old vines in Argentina—and Neither did I before I tried this! Béquignol young winemakers, who are looking for forgotten noir is a rare French variety from vineyards and obscure corners of the country to find Gascony which is now much more interesting materials. This is how the wine world widely planted in Argentina than in innovates. The future is looking delicious. its country of origin. This is mountain 2018 Inkarri Bonarda Mendoza ($11.99) Bonarda wine. If you enjoy the bright, earthy, is the other “big” winegrape in Argentina, once more savory wines from the Jura or Alto widely planted than Malbec. Long thought to be Italian, Adige, this is for you. Light-bodied, with it’s actually from the . This is blackberry pie on a great concentration, and a long finish. warm summer afternoon. Bright, juicy, and a little tangy. 2014 Alma 4 Chardonnay Uco Fire up the grill! This is backyard barbecue wine. Valley ($21.99) One of my favorite wines that I have 2019 Passionate Wines “Del Mono” Tinto Tupungato ($11.49) A blend had from Argentina in the last several months, this of Syrah and Malbec. What a duo! There’s great aromatic complexity is all Chardonnay, aged 50 months on the lees. I get here, with mixed berries, floral aromas, spice, a hint of earth, and just Meyer lemon, grapefruit rind, quince, and limestone a smattering of something savory. It has a little more substance that a minerality from this medium-bodied wine, which has straight-up Malbec, but all of the easygoing tannins. a creamy texture and a long, dry finish. Cheers!

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