YOU CAN DO in the CITY Royal Residences Top Events Places to Be

TURIN CITY GUIDE ®

MARCH 2019 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY Royal residences Top events Places to be

ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE Our pick of the best seasonal trends ALL THE ALLURE OF PIEDMONT Several destinations for an out-of-town experience

YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936® WELCOME TO ITALY ® whereMAGAZINE Turin Turin March 2019 www.whereitalia.com/turin ON THE TRAIL OF LEONARDO PROEDI MEDIA - WHERE INSIDER TIPS 16 GIFT GUIDE Dear Visitor, welcome to Italy! Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. 12 T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 the guide 2019 is the year in which Italy will be overflowing [email protected] with celebrations marking the 500th anniversary www.whereitalia.com/turin 24 SHOPPING of the death of Leonardo da Vinci, the man PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Andrea Jarach With more than 600 ([email protected]) who more than any other, represents Italy official products, the throughout the world. MANAGING DIRECTOR Juventus megastore offers Andrea Jarach Daniele Misrachi Publisher Several cities including Milan, Florence and ([email protected]) fans a truly electrifying ® experience. Where Rome will host a series of special events. MANAGING EDITOR The full program of Italian exhibitions and events Alessandra Finzi BRENTATORE 32 FOOD&WINE CORSO VERCELLI ([email protected]) ALESSANDRIA CORSO Michael Kors honouring Leonardo throughout 2019 can be found on the pages of TANGENZIALE NORD TORINO Lovers of good wine, VIA PAGANELLI

CONTRIBUTORS Parrocchia Santa Gianna Where®. We invite you to discover the country that gave life to the CORSO GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI CORSO GIULIO CESARE ANZ OL A I V paired with local specialties Carey Bernitz, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana S T R A D A D I D R U E N D O person considered the world over as one of history’s greatest thinkers. di Maio, Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale, S T R A D A D I D R U E N D O can indulge in a relaxing STRADA DI DRUENDO Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, DINING V I A V E R O N E S E break at Casa del Barolo. While visiting Italy you’ll understand why only Italy could have given 500 m 34 Chiara Zaccarelli BERGERA VIA VENARIA V I A R E I S S R O M O L I birth to this man whose creative mind shaped the intellectual, social, VIA ANDREA SANSOVINO V I A R E I S S R O M O L I

VIA TRAVES CORSO GAETANO SCIREA 34 DINING ICONOGRAPHY Juventus Museum V I A V E R O N E S E REBAUDENGO

VIAGIOVANNI BAT TISTAGANDINO cultural, and political facets of European life from the fifteenth century STRADA DELLA CONTINESSA Allianz Stadium Archivio Proedi Media, VIA ALFONSO BADINI CONFALONIERI At Magorabin you V I A R E I S S R O M O L I CORSO VERCELLI

I T R E B I N U C O I R O T T I V A I V VIA REFRANCORE ANZ OL A I V STRADA ALTESSANO V I A V E R O N E S E Milano Panoramica, Shutterstock V I A G I U S E P P E M A S S A R I V IA M A S A C C IO VIA PAOLO DELLA CELLA V I A G I U S E P P E M A S S A R I can choose between onwards. Leonardo made an indelible contribution to philosophy, VIA VENARIA

V I A G I U S E P P E M A S S A R I

VIA ETTORE STAMPINI

C O R S O F E R R A R A VIA POMPEO COLAJANNI nature, medicine and art. All that now remains is for us to look CARTOGRAPHY VIA GIUSEPPE DE PANIS a traditional or more VIA SANSOVINO VIA RICCARDO ARNO’ V I A O R B E T E L L O

VIA VANINETTI

City Map © Proedi Comunicazione 2019 C O R S O G R O S S E T O V I A O R B E T E L L O PIAZZA VIA GIAMBATTISTA LULLI creative menu, Vsit I A G I U S E P P E M A S S Aat R I V I A M A S S A MANNO VIA ENRICO REYCEND V I A R E I S S R O M O L I for the traces left by the enigmatic Leonardo. You’ll find them in Giardino Vittime delle Foibe GIUSEPPE C O R S O G R O S S E T O V I A O R B E T E L L O Fast Trains Network Map Dmitry Goloub VIA DE MARCHI CORSO GIULIO CESARE

VIA LEONARDO FEA STRADAALTESSANO the chef’sVIA PAOLO DELLAtable CELLA and be © Proedi Comunicazione 2019, STRADA DELLE VALLE T TE V I A T E R N I V I A I S E R N I A C O R S O G R O S S E T O whatever part of Italy you’re visiting. RACCORDO AUTOSTRADALE TORINO - CASELLE V I A L E D E I M U G H E T T I LE VALLETTE Stazione surprised by the choices CORSO LOMBARDIA C O R S O G R O S S E T O V I A T E R N I CORSO VERCELLI Madonna di Campagna VIA CHIESA DELLA SALUTE STRADA DEL CAROSSIO VIA ALA DI STURA VIA FIESOLE MARKETING & ADVERTISING Chiesa V IA L U C C A V I A L U C E N T O VIA PIRANO V I A S O S P E L L O PIAZZA V I A L E D E I M U G H E T T I VIA CAMPIGLIA If you happen to find them, please Santa Famiglia Di Nazaret V I A L E D E I M U G H E T T I CONTI V I A B O T T I C E L L I CORSO DEL MOLISE Chiesa Santa ofV I A S O S P E LMarcello L O Trentini. DI Giardino E L U M I R P E L L E D A I V REBAUDENGO Caterina da Siena CORSO LUCIO QUINZIO CINCINNATO Chiesa Don Gnocchi Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, V I A T E R N I V I A S O S P E L L O Madonna di Campagna Giardino Jaquerio share your comments, with your STRA V I D ELA PIAZZA Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni V I A T E R N I VIALE MADONNA RUGGERO PIAZZA DI CAMPAGNA V AI N C I O L A P O R P O R A VIA BORGARO PIAZZA BONGHI, DERNA V I A B O T T I C E L L I VIA PARENZO Magorabin VIA SARGIO VETTA V I A B R E N TA VIA GIOVANNI SEGANTINI V I A F O L I G N O V I A F O R L I ’ VIA CARDINALE G. MASSAIA STRADAALTESSANO D'ITALIA BORGO VITTORIA ([email protected]) VIA CASTELDELFINO Parco Sempione Est 38V I A M I C H E L E C OENTERTAINMENT P P I O V A I N D R E AC E S A LP N I O photo, on our social media. By the C O R S O T A R A N T O VIA SANSOVINO CORSO LOMBARDIA V I A M I C H E L E C O P P I O Parco Sempione V I A D E L L E P R I M U L E Giardino Cavallotti VIA VITERBO PIAZZA VIA CAMPIGLIA V I A F O L I G N O PASQUALE FeaturingV I A C A R L O L O R E N Z I N I a spectacular ADMINISTRATION V I A B E R N A R D I N O L U I N I end of the year, we’d like to collect VILLARI Stazione Torino Rebaudengo Fossata V I A B R E G L I O V I A N I G R A V I A G U B B I O Chiesa Parr. S.Giuseppe VIA CHIESA DELLA SALUTE VIA MAZZE’ CORSO VERCELLI Katia Greto ([email protected]) Benedetto Cottolengo VIA BREGLIO layout, the Museo V I A E M I L I O B R U S C A V AS TI R A D EL A V I A B R E G L I O V I A G O T T A R D O V I A F O L I G N O V I A S E M P I O N E V I A L E M M E V AI B O T T CI E L L I

V I A A S S I S I a gallery of the friends of Italy. V I A P I A N E Z Z A V I A F O R L I ’ TURIN CITY GUIDE C O R S O T O S C A N A V I A B E R N A R D I N O L U I N I VIA SARGIO ® CORSO POTENZA PIAZZA Nazionale del Cinema LUIGI

PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, CORSO LUCIO QUINZIO CINCINNATO FOGLIZZO VIA MATTIROLO VIA LAURO ROSSI VIA CARDINALE GUGLIELMO MASSAIA VIA CASTELDELFINO REGIO C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A V I A F O L I G N O A S TA OS F A I V Happy hunting! VIA BORGOMASSIMO V I A B E R N A R D I N O L U I N I V I A T O M M A S O G U L L I Parrocchia Maria Speranza Nostra Contents LARGO V I A G O T T A R D O is located in the V I A S E M P I O N E Ospedale San Giovanni

SALES SUPPORT MANAGER VIA BORGARO VIA SARGIO MARCH 2019 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN ERRICO VIA FRANCECO CIGNA PARCO

VIA VITERBO Bosco C O R S O T A R A N T O BARRIERA GIACHINO VIA GIAMBATTISTA PERGOLESI CORSO LOMBARDIA C O R S O T O S C A N A VIA BORSI VIA BIBIANA VIA VAL DELLA TORRE Paola Grilli ([email protected]) BORGATA V I A G U B B I O DI STURA

V I A L E M M E city’s landmark V I A P I A N E Z Z A V I A T I C I N O

V I A A S S I S I V I A F O R L I ’ VIA MICHELE ANTONIO VIBO’

VIA CHIESA DELLA SALUTE CORSO GIULIO CESARE VIA LAURO ROSSI ALL YOU FRASSATI VIA RENATO MARTORELLI VIA VEROLENGO V I A V E R O L E N G O VIA GOTTARDO Piazza Chiesa della Salute CAN DO TOP IN TOWN THE REGGE SABAUDE VIA CERESOLE VIA G.TARTINI 4 18 V AS I T R A D E L A Mole Antonelliana. PIAZZA HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER VIA VEROLENGO GHIRLANDAIO V I A S E M P I OV NI A E G O T T A R D O IN THE CITY PIAZZA CORSO VERCELLI VIA ARCANGELO CORELLI SOFIA Parco della Conuenza Royal residences CORSO VENEZIA VIA VAL DELLA TORRE VIA BOCCARDO VIA MONTE ROSA Top events VIA VITERBO VIA PIER LUIGI DA PALESTRINA Places to be Parco Aurelio VIA GASPARI SPONTINI VIA SANTHIA’ Maria Granata ([email protected]) CORSO VENEZIA A S TA OS F A I V VIA GIOVENALE ANCINA Enjoy the city, starting Some of the best examples Peccei VIA GIAMBATTISTA PERGOLESI S O T T O PA S VIA GIOVANNI CRAVERO V AI P A I N E Z Z A S O ITALIAN-STYLE D VIA ERRICO GIACHINO GIFT GUIDE V I A F O R L I ’ CORSO MORTARA VIA VALPRATO VIA SAVERIO MERCADANTE O Our pick of the best LARGO PIAZZA N V I A G O T T A R D O seasonal trends 40 SIGHTSEEINGVIA DEL RIDOT TO V I A S E M P I O N E STRADELLA PIAZZA VIA CHERUBINI A OTTORINO from its main landmark of 17th and 18th century TRE T VIA CHERUBINI RESPIGHI CUSTOMER SERVICES ALL THE ALLURE Chiesa del Santo Volto - CABINE CORSO POTENZA VIA LUIGI SALVATORE CHERUBINI OF PIEDMONT VIA BORGARA C VIA VALPRATO VIA VALPRATO VIA MONTANARO A Several destinations for V AI D O M E N CI O C MI A R O S A

C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A T an out-of-town VIA FRANCECO CIGNA experience T

I & MUSEUMS VIA ORVIETO

N Cristina Garbini ([email protected]) VIA CERVINO MEF Museo Ettore Fico attractions. European architecture. Parco Dora Parrocchia VIA TESSO San Domenico Savio

VIA LEINI VIA CERVINO VIA ALESSANDRO CRUTO In addition to a selection of rare and beautiful works, BARRIERA VIA BOLOGNA PO DiscoverCORSO VENEZIAPalazzo Teatro Monterosa Centro Piero VIA BALTEA D O R A R I P A R I A VIA SOANA SUPPLEMENTO DI WHERE® MILAN VIA ERRICO PETRELLA PIAZZALE della Francesca PIAZZA DELLA LUNGO DORA LIGURIA Stazione Torino Dora GTT VIA GIOVANNI PAISIELLO VIA MADDALENE SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS VIA PARELLA CORSO VERCELLI Turin’s Royal Library (below) hosts severable priceless DI VIA ALESSANDROMILANO SCARLAT TI AUGUSTO CROCE PIAZZA ROSTAGNI ROSSA REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 453, 19 JULY 2010 A Z Z E N A I P A I V Carignano,GENERALE the Parco vittime del rogo nello stabilimento ThyssenKrupp ANTONIO C O R S O V I G E V A N O Giardini del

CORSO REGIO PARCO manuscripts by Leonardo da Vinci, including his VIA PIETRO COSSA BALDISSERA Piazzale della CORSO MORTARA EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N. 2455 Parrocchia VIA CANDIA VIA GIORGIO GHEDINI Croce Rossa Maria Regina E N O I P M E S A I V Chiesa di San Gaetano da Thiene HOT DATES DISCOVERING PIEDMONT A NV I T O CON ECI C H I 8 20 C O UROS M A BRI PIAZZA CORSO SVIZZERA V AI S A NI T B O N C O R S O V I G E V A N O Della Pace DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH COVER C O R S O U M B R I A FRANCESCO VIA ERRICO PETRELLA ‘Codex on the Flight of Birds’ (on the right), featuring CORSO GIULIO CESARE headquarters of the CRISPI VIA SANTHIA’

V AI D O M E N CI O C MI A R O S A VIA ADOLPHE DAUBRÉE Piscina scolastica comunale E8 PIAZZA his studies on flight, and 13 autograph sheets, Reggia di Venaria Reale, This month’s round-up Langhe, Roero and Monferrato: VIA FRANCECO CIGNAVIA PINEROLO GIOVANNI PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA D O R A R I P A R I A CORSO POTENZA VIA PIOSSASCO BOTTESINI VIA BOLOGNA Galleria Grande. C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A Ospedale Amedeo di Savoia National Museum of the V IA A M IL C A R E P O N C H IE L L I VIA GIAVENO including his famous ‘Self-Portrait’ (above). VIA LIVORNO LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) VIA GIOVANNI PACINI VIA ANDRA CASTAGNA V IA B E IN A S C O VIA PINEROLO CORSO PALERMO of art exhibitions, music avant-garde wineries, world-class LARGO VIA MONTE ROSA L U N G O D O R A N A P O L I FRANCECO VIA ANTONELLO DA MESSINA © ROBERTO BIGANO - LEONARDO 3 BIBLIOTECA REALE DI TORINO © ROBERTO PHOTO © MAUDANROS/ VIA CUNEO C O R S O N O V A R A VIA MUZIO CLEMENTI www.museireali.beniculturali.it CIGNA VIA AOSTA VIA TREVISO Italian Risorgimento. D O R ARP I A RA I

E H C R A M O S R O C Parco Pubblico Pellerina Parco del Meisino Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, SHUTTERSTOCK.COM C O R S O O T TO N E R O S A I LARGO VIA CUNEO VIA PISTOIA VIA LUIGI DAMIANO BOLOGNA V I A C U N E O and local attractions.Mario Carrara cuisine and marvelous landscapes. A NV I T O CON ECI C H I CORSO VERCELLI in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would VIA SONDRIO VIA CEVA VIA BRA VIA TOLLEGO CORSO REGIO PARCO CORSO ENRICO GAMBA VIA FOSSANO VIA LIVORNO VIA CREMONA like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be CHIESA S T R A D A D E L F O R T NI O Stimmate di VIA CARMAGNOLA CORSO APPIO CLAUDIO San Francesco D'Assisi V I A G I O V A N N I S E R V A I S VIA CAPUA V IA U R B IN O VIA NOVI 44 ESSENTIALS VIA RUGGERO LEONCAVALLO published in the next issue. CORSO APPIO CLAUDIO LARGO Parrocchia Gesù Operaio V I A B I E L L A PALERMO VIA CEVA VIA GIOVANNI PACINI C O UROS M A BRI VIA BOLOGNA VIA DON GIOVANNI BOSCO V IA P E S A R O CORSO SVIZZERA VIA LODI VIA ANGELO SISMONDA C O R S O A P P I O C L A U D I O VIA AQUILA VIA PRINCIPESSA CLOTILDE Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A VIA BARI Information and tips THE FEMININE FASHION OUTLETS V I A C O M O 12 CORSO LECCE 22 V I A S E R V A I S VIA TRIVERO L U N G O D O R A N A P O L I VIA ORNAVASSO VIA V IA C IR IE ' C O R S O B R E S C IA P A VDI O V A V I A G I O V A N N I S E R V A I S CORSO GIULIO CESARE information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any I N O S S A T O R D N A S S E L A O S R O C VIA CHIVASSO PIAZZA CORSO PRINCIPE ODDONE V I A R O V I G O

V I A M I C H E L E L E S S O N A VIA LEVANNA VIA SAN DONATO VIA PIERDONIGI PINELLI CIRIO FRANCESCO VIA VIA FRATELLI PASSONI GIUSEPPE

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VIA DOMODOSSOLA VIA to experience the best consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. VIA PIE TRO COSSA Il Fungo di Corso Telesio Several go-to shopping VIA LIVORNO SIDE OF TURIN PEROTTI V IA S A S S A R I VIA ROMAGNANO V I A B I E L L A VIA OMEGNA VIA RAVENNA CORSO REGIO PARCO VIA NICOMEDE BIANCHI PIAZZA VIA BARI V I A C I R I E ' VIA ARONA VIA LUIGI CIBRARIO Giardino C O RNSO O V A RA Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. TOMMASO Ospedale Marino VIA CARDEZZA VIA CASERTA Ferraro VIA NICOMEDE BIANCHI Maria Vittoria VIA BOLOGNA STRADA ANTICA DI COLLEGNO Parrocchia CAMPANELLA Chiesa VIA BRINDISI San Pietro in Vincoli C O R S O B R E S C IA CORSO PALERMO VIA LUIGI GALVANI that Turin has to offer. VIA VITTORIOANDREIS VIA PIETRO COSSA S. Ermenegildo VIA SALBERTRAND S. Giovanna D'Arco STRADA ANTICA DI COLLEGNO PIAZZA Re e Martire DiscoverVIA NICOMEDE BIANCHI the places CAMPIDOGLIOand destinations offering year-round

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VIA TRIPOLI

CORSO GALILEO FERRARIS VIA GIORDANO BRUNO Stadio Olimpico Grande Torino di Torino Ponte Balbis

VIA GUIDO RENI CORSO ORBASSANO C O R S O S E B A S T O P O L I VIA CHISOLA I PIAZZA T V IA S A N M A R IN O T MUZIO VIA ABEGG O I SCEVOLA L V I A F I L A D E L F I A PIAZZA G Parrocchia Natale del Signore Ospedale O PITAGORA D BORGO VIA ALAZZIO Molinette O I

MIRAFIORI NORD A V I A C R E A M

VIA ALAZZIO

E PILONETTO S T R . D E L P O R T O N E V I A G E N O V A A S U C A R I S O S R O C VIA CHERASCO

V I A T U N I S I VIA NIZZA L L

VIA GORIZIA I

VIA STELLONE H

VIA THONON C A V I A F I L A D E L F I A

CORSO SPEZIA O

C O R S O C O S E N Z A VIA TRIPOLI VIA VARAZZE S C O R S O E . T A Z Z O L I R

V I A B U E N O S A I R E S Spezia O C CORSO SPEZIA V IA S A N M A R IN O

VIA BRONI

CORSO GIOVANNI AGNELLI VIA C.MARTINOTTI CORSO SPEZIA VIA VARAITA

CORSO ORBASSANO CORSO MONCALIERI CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICAV I A M O N T E V I D E O PIAZZA

VIA VENTIMIGLIA POLONIA V I A B U E N O S A I R E S Parrocchia VIA ARNALDO DA BRESCIA Madonna delle Rose VIA GIULIOEataly BIGLIERI Torino Cimitero Parco VIA PIETRO BAIARDI Ospedale Regina Margherita VIA ELLERO

VIA GIULIO BIGLIERI V I A G E N O V A

CORSO COSENZA V I A TA G G I A V I A A S U N C I O N S T R . D E L P O R T O N E VIA SAN REMO VIA VENTIMIGLIA V I A T U N I S I VIA GIULIO BIGLIERI VIA LAVAGNA VIA ZINO ZINI Pinacoteca Giovanni C O R S O E N R IC O T A Z Z O L I VIA PROSPERO RICHELMY e Marella Agnelli VIA NIZZA VIA GIORDANO BRUNO

CORSO ORBASSANO CORSO EUSEBIO GIAMBONE Lingotto CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA CAVORETTO LINGOTTO Passerella Olimpica Museo dell'Automobile di Torino

VIA SPOTORNO VIA GARESSIO Lingotto PO SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO VIA VADO

CORSO ORBASSANO

VIA MILLEFONTI V I A G E N O V A SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO Lingotto Fiere CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

VIAVIA VENTIMIGLIA MILLEFONTI

CORSO CORSICA SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO Fiat Chrysler Automobiles Giardino C O R S O L U IG I S E T T E M B R IN I CORSO CADUTI SUL LAVORO STRADA TORINO Giuseppe Levi Stazione Torino Lingotto Ex Area Fiat Avio Lubricanti CORSO MONCALIERI VIA PASSO BUOLE NIZZA C O R S O T R A IA N O CORSO GIOVANNI AGNELLI VIA PIO VII

MILLEFONTI CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA Parco Giuseppe Di Vittorio

VIA PASSO BUOLE Torre Regione Piemonte

VIA SOMMARIVA Palavela

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

VIA NIZZA VIA PASSO BUOLE I R E I L A C N O M O S R O C

Parrocchia Assunzione VIA O. VIGLIANI di Maria Vergine Giardino Corpo VIA VINOVO Italiano di Liberazione

C O R S O T R A IA N O V I A G E N O V A

VIA O. VIGLIANI

VIA VENTIMIGLIA

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T MIRAFIORI SUD CORSO BENEDETTO CROCE Palazzo del Lavoro VIA PIO VII CORSO PIERO MARONCELLI

VIA O. VIGLIANI CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA

V I A O N O R A T O V I G L I A N I PIAZZA CORSO FRAT. ROSSELLI

BENGASI

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

M O T R A E L E U N A M E A I V P O

Parco Colonnetti S TRA D TONA OR I

E T S E I R T O S R O C

VIA SESTRIERE S A N G O N E

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

S A N G O N E BORGARETTO

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T

VIALE TORINO NICHELINO VIA TORINO

C O R S O T R EI S T E PO

VIA BOGINO MONCALIERI

VIA TORINO

VIALE TORINO STUPINIGI

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi Parrocchia di Stupinigi

500 m

Parco Naturale di Stupinigi [ SIGHTSEEING]

MORE AT PAGE 38 Top in town MAP PAGES 46-47 factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the 2 7 13 5 wealth of the city. Reconverted by Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it hosts events and the famous rooftop test track. The old Carpano plants, lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. 10

MUSEO NAZIONALE DELL’AUTOMOBILE The Car Museum (MAUTO) was opened in 1960 and is one of the oldest car museums in the world. The semi-circular building overlooking the River Po acts as a prelude to the three floors of the collection featuring a spectacular layout designed by François Confinio, who also designed the exhibition space of the Museum LUCA SANTILLI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM MATEJ KASTELIC/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM MATEJ MARCO CRUPI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM GIMAS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM © © © © of Cinema. 11

151 15 9 ALLIANZ JUVENTUS STADIUM Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, this is the sixth largest stadium in Italy. It is owned by the Juventus Football Club whose home matches have been played here since 2011. An architectural symbol, it is one of the most avant- garde facilities in the world. The J-Museum, the official football museum of the ‘bianconero’ team is hosted inside the stadium. 12

BASILICA DI SUPERGA Situated on the hills surrounding Turin, it offers a breathtaking view. It was built as a thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from the French siege (1706) and designed by Filippo Juvarra. One of the most picturesque ways of CKTRAVELLING/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM PIO3/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM BORIS STROUJKO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, which © © © rattles the 3km up the hillside. 13

REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE MOLE ANTONELLIANA artifacts, from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. headquarters of the first Subalpine Senate. Its King Vittorio Amedeo II gifted it to his future VIA PO PROMENADE Located inside the Park of La Mandria, this is a A landmark building of Turin since 1889, it was The archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean- name refers to ‘Madame Royale’ Christine of bride in 1714. Don’t miss a visit to this A stroll beneath the typical Torinese porticoes in Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th purchased by the municipality who decided to François Champollion once said: ‘the road to France, who took up residence here in 1600. magnificent residence, distinguished by the via Po, packed with shops and cafés, is an century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo make it a monument to Italian unification. Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin’. 2 The view of the city from the Panoramic Tower remains of its original 18th century decorations absolute must. From here, you can access Piazza Emanuele II. Particularly worthy of note are the Standing at a height of 167.5m, at the time of its is spectacular. 4 and furnishings, and its Italianate gardens. Villa Vittorio Veneto, the largest square in the city. The Grand Gallery, the Chapel of St. Hubert, the construction it was the highest brick building in MUSEI REALI della Regina is a part of the circuit of the Royal square ends at the Vittorio Emanuele I bridge, Galleria di Diana, the 18th century Scuderie Europe. Built in an eclectic style, the Mole has a The residence of the Savoys until 1865, it is now PARCO DEL VALENTINO Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO which connects it to the square of the church of Juvarrine and the Citroniera, now used to host squat square base topped by a large dome with owned by the Italian government. The museum Located on the banks of the Po River, and world heritage site. 6 the Gran Madre di Dio (1830), renowned for its events. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal a spire. You can ascend to the panoramic tour comprises a 3km route spread over 30,000 spread over 550,000 sq.m., this is the city’s most imposing pantheon-like shape. 8 Residences of Turin and Piedmont. 14 observation platform either by elevator or on sq.m. and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. In 1563, popular park. Its interior houses numerous TEATRO REGIO foot by climbing its 573 steps. Since 2000, it has Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved the treasures including the Castello del Valentino, a The Regio is one of the most important Italian PIAZZA SAN CARLO PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI hosted the National Museum of Cinema. 1 capital of the duchy from Chambéry to Turin, UNESCO world heritage site and a part of the theatres on the European scene, offering an Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, it Built in Baroque style in 1729, and only 10km marking the beginning of a major urban circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and action-packed program of opera and ballet. It was commissioned by Marie Christine of France from Piazza Castello, with its French garden, MUSEO EGIZIO transformation and the enrichment of the Piedmont, the Medieval Village and Castle, and was designed by Filippo Juvarra and in true Parisian style with seemingly endless Stupinigi was the royal family’s favourite place Founded in 1824, Turin’s Egyptian Museum is dynastic collections, which now include artifacts the Botanical Gardens (1729). 5 inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, porticoes housing fashion boutiques, and an for celebrations and events. At the beginning of the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and from the prehistoric era to the present time. 3 and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo equestrian statue - the ‘Caval d’Brons’ – of Duke the 20th century, Queen Margherita of Savoy the second in terms of the value and quality of VILLA DELLA REGINA Mollino, the only part of the original building Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre. 9 took up permanent residence here. In 1919, its treasures outside of Cairo. In 2006, during PALAZZO MADAMA The summer country residence of the House of that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO Stupinigi became the headquarters of the Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum was Situated in the centre of piazza Castello, it has Savoy, it was built at the beginning of the 17th world heritage site. Its unusual gate, named LINGOTTO Furniture Museum. It is a part of the circuit of the re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer always been a reference point in the city, from century as a court vineyard. It became known as ‘Odissea Musicale’ (Musical Odyssey) is by This complex of buildings built in 1916, based Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a Dante Ferretti. It houses more than 37,000 Roman times to 1848, when it became the Villa della Regina (literally the Queen’s Villa) when Umberto Mastroianni. 7 on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT UNESCO world heritage site. 15

4 WHERE TURIN I MARCH 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 5 Egyptian WHERE NOW | OUTEXPERIENCE OF TOWN Museum Winter paradise Egyptian Museum

A star of the −Despite its longstanding history and historic headquarters – the imposing Palazzo dell’Accademia delle Scienze, dating back to the museum world 17th century – the museum is extremely modern in terms of both −Have you heard of Jean-François Champollion? A French its layout and immersive visitor experience. archaeologist and Egyptologist and the director of the Egyptian sector of the Louvre in Paris, he is the man who deciphered the −Remodelled by Oscar-winning set designer Dante Ferretti, mystery of hieroglyphics through the Rosetta Stone in 1822. in 2015 the exhibition space was doubled, following massive It is also thanks to Champollion’s expertise that we owe the renovations, and is now spread over four levels, three above defining statement: “The road to Memphis and Thebes passes ground and one below ground, organized in chronological order. through Turin.” −Here you’ll find mummies, tombs, papyrus sheets and everything related to ancient Egypt (included embalmed animals) −This unique and extraordinary Egyptian Museum, the world’s from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. first Egyptian museum founded in 1824, is the second in terms of the value and number of artifacts (around 40,000) outside of Cairo −If you’re so overwhelmed that you don’t know where to begin and the eighth most widely visited museum in Italy. your tour, get an audio guide. It’s free and allows you to choose It’s so well-known that in a classification drawn up by TripAdvisor, and personalize your itinerary to suit individual requirements. it was ranked number one among Italy’s most popular museums, A tip? The Restoration Area on the first floor that allows visitors to ninth in Europe and fourteenth in the world. The British newspaper watch animal mummies being restored. The Times listed it as one of the 50 best museums on the planet. Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6. www.museoegizio.it

6 WHERE TURIN I MARCH 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 7 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES MORE ON WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/WHAT-TO-DO-TURIN MARGHERITA BORSANO MARGHERITA ©

DESIGN MARCH 24 26 JANUARY MAY

LEGENDARY SPORTS CARS This exhibition is dedicated to Marcello Gandini, one of the most significant car designers of the 20th century. In addition to his most famous creations which include the Stratos Zero HOTWhether it’s discovering the events celebratingDATES and the Maserati Khamsin, authentic legends in the world Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an of car racing, the exhibition showcases Lamborghini Marzal exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s prototypes, the Alfa Romeo Montreal 1967 and the Alfa Romeo Carabo, all vehicles in which Gandini’s contribution, both in unmissable dates. BY ELENA PEVERATA terms of engineering and aesthetics, was extremely innovative. Marcello Gandini. Hidden Genius MAUTO – Museo dell’Automobile. Corso Unità d’Italia, 40 www.museoauto.it

8 WHERE TURIN I MARCH 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 9 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES MORE ON WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/WHAT-TO-DO-TURIN

CONTEMPORARY ART DANCE DOWN THE RABBIT HOLE... ► Momix, a company of dancer- 1 19 20 24 illusionists founded and directed FEBRUARY MAY MARCH by Moses Pendleton, has chosen to travel down the rabbit hole, to © 2019 ANDREA ROSSETTI discover a magical world where the human body is subject to change THE DARK WORLD and nothing is what it seems to be… IN WHICH WE LIVE Inspired by “Alice in Wonderland” and her phantasmagorical world ► This collective exhibition gathers together artists of inhabited by strange and whimsical presences, including the White different origins investigating dark and irrational aspects Rabbit, the Mad Hatter and the implacable Queen of Hearts, as always, of today’s world, including war and the irresponsible use of the show is a magical blend of dance, lights, music, costumes and Artificial Intelligence. The works by Allora & Calzadilla, Maria projected imagery. Thereza Alves, Maurizio Cattelan, Roberto Cuoghi, Bracha L. Ettinger, Massimo Grimaldi, Mona Hatoum, Goshka Macuga, Momix’s Alice Teresa Margolles, Pedro Neves Marques and Wael Shawky Teatro Alfieri. Piazza Solferino, 4 embrace multiple languages and techniques, including www.momix.com Cuore di tenebra / Heart of Darkness performance, sculpture, photography, painting, film and Can Art Prevent Mistakes? Castello di [email protected]. multimedia and sound installations. OGR – Officine Grandi Riparazioni. Corso Castelfidardo, 22

www.ogrtorino.it © MOMIX INC.

OUT OF TOWN MUSIC FAIR NATURE ENCAPSULATED AT A FORTRESS 2 2 ▼ Located one hour from FEBRUARY JUNE Turin, the Forte di Bard, which has remained almost intact since it was first built, represents one of the best examples of an early 19th century military stronghold. From 2 February to 2 June, this imposing complex – worth a visit in its own right – is hosting the Italian preview of the prestigious ‘Wildlife Photographer of the Year’ competition. The key attraction at this year’s edition is Dutch photographer Marsel van Oosten’s award-winning photograph titled ‘The Golden Couple’ (see photo).

Wildlife Photographer of the Year NOT ONLY FOR FAIR Forte di Bard, Bard (Valle d’Aosta) BIBLIOPHILES www.fortedibard.it ▲ For the past twelve © MAZZONI LORENZO 3 years, every Sunday of the month, the arcades of MARCH 2 10 WEEKEND-LONG MEGA PARTY piazza Carlo Felice and via MARCH ▲ The Reload Music Festival 2019, an event dedicated Roma host the ‘Il libro ritrovato’ (‘The Refound to EDM (Electronic Dance Music), returns to Turin for Book’), the most important fair of antique and THE BEST IN HOME DESIGN 2 3 the fifth consecutive year. The festival, whose previous out-of-print books in Turin, a city renowned ▲ Expocasa, a furniture and home design fair open to the public, MARCH editions saw more than 10,000 fans dancing and partying for its love of antiques. One hundred stalls, is a large, comprehensive showcase featuring the best and to the rhythm of music provided by well-known DJs, manned by independent and professional most innovative designs in kitchens, living rooms, bedrooms, includes a non-stop session from 4pm on Saturday booksellers, exhibit and sell period or used bathrooms, outdoor areas, lighting, furnishing accessories and 2 March to 6am on Sunday 3 March. The festival attracts a lineup of some of the biggest books, rare, out-of-print volumes, auteur remodeling. The show boasts plenty of activities including cooking names on the international EDM scene including Wildstylez, Trampa, Dynoro, Flux Pavilion, comic books, stamps and antique postcards, demos and meetings with chefs and experts, practical interior Afrojack, Danko, Dj Mad Dog b2b, Dj AniMe and Junkie Kid. throughout the day. design courses and a shopping area dedicated to design items.

Reload Music Festival 2019 Il libro ritrovato Expocasa 2019 – Furniture Fair Lingotto Fiere. Via Nizza, 294 Piazza Carlo Felice and via Roma, 8am-6pm Oval Lingotto Fiere. Via Giacomo Mattè Trucco, 70

www.reloadmusicfestival.com www.sullaparola.it www.expocasa.it OOSTEN © MARSEL VAN

10 WHERE TURIN I MARCH 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 11 WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS Isa Bluette Bela Rosin nternational Women’s Day’ is celebrated worldwide on 8 March. The custom of acknowledging the ‘fairer sex’ dates back to 1909, when the Socialist Party of America designated ‘ the day in honour of the garment workers’ strike in New York, where women protested against the appalling working conditions. The official consecration of 8 March as a national holidayI was due to a protest by Russian women who organized a rally on 8 March 1917 to protest against World War I and the Czar’s government. However, it was only in 1975 that the United Nations officially designated 8 March as ‘International Women’s Day’. To mark the occasion, we have decided to explore the lives and history of several famous or, at times, forgotten women, who lived and made their mark on the city.

Bela Rosin, © DONPESKY the King’s Great Love

A BIT OF HISTORY La Mandria Park

It was in 1847 that King Vittorio Emanuele first saw Rosa Vercellana, a beautiful, young brunette. It was after a hunting trip, and he was looking over the balcony of the Racconigi Margherita of Savoy Castle, on the outskirts of Turin (www.residenzereali.it). He was 27, and married with a wife and four children and another child on the way. Rosa had just turned 14. He was the heir to the throne of the Kingdom of Savoy; she was the humble daughter of a palace guard. The future king fell in love with her, and this love lasted for the rest of his life. Their affair caused a great scandal at court when Rosa was made Countess of Mirafiori and Fontanafredda. This romance was strongly disapproved of and the couple encountered numerous obstacles, including the opposition of Count Cavour, who following the death of the king’s consort Maria Adelaide of Hapsburg-Lorraine in 1885, did everything in his power The to prevent Vittorio Emanuele II from marrying his ‘Rosin’. However, his efforts were in vain. In 1869, the King and Rosa were united in a morganatic marriage. In other words, neither she nor her children were to inherit any of the Savoy’s titles or possessions. She was a queen ‘without crown and without a throne’ and her children were not considered future heirs. Feminine The couple had two children, Vittoria and Emanuele Alberto. Side of Turin Turin – city of queens and illicit love affairs, and also divas and scientists, who were pioneers of their time. To mark International Women’s Day, we have decided to dedicate this journey WHAT TO SEE into the past to them, discovering the places Although Rosa accompanied the King and personalities of the women whose stories on his travels, she kept a low profile changed the course of the history of the and never lived at court. Traces of Savoy capital. BY GIULIA MINERO her life can still be found in the Royal Apartments of Borgo Castello in the La Mandria Regional Park. The apartments were recently renovated and are open for public viewing. The building’s 20 rooms are decorated with precious artefacts, more than 100 works of art, exquisite fabrics and furniture from the former Savoy collections (www.lavenaria.it). Royal Apartments of Borgo Castello

12 WHERE TURIN I MARCH 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 13 WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS Margherita of Savoy, Isa Bluette, the First Queen of Italy from Factory Worker to Starsdom A BIT OF HISTORY Isa Bluette was the stage name of Teresa Ferrero Navarrini, one of Italy’s most famous divas of the 1920s and 1930s. Her origins were anything but glorious. She was born in 1898 to a family of humble origins in the outlying, working district of Regio Parco. Aged only 15, she began earning her living as a factory worker at the nearby Regia Manifattura Tabacchi, currently home to the offices of the University of Turin. However, life as a factory worker was not for her. After resigning her ‘safe’ job, she debuted as a singer in several of Turin’s ‘café-chantant’, performing operettas that were extremely popular in the post-war era. She took the pseudonym Isa Bluette, and rose to fame after introducing the ‘revue’ into Italy, a multi-act form of entertainment, combining Royal Palace, Great Ballroom music, dance and sketches. It is due her that A BIT OF HISTORY WHAT TO SEE we owe the launch of several of Italy’s most famous 20th century Italian comedians including To learn more about the history of Traces of her life can be found throughout to drive a car, and strongly supported the use Erminio Macario and Totò. While performing Margherita of Savoy, let’s head to Turin’s the city, starting from the Royal Palace, now of the locomotive as a means of transport. she met Nuto Navarrini, an actor, and her one Palazzo Chiablese, where the daughter of a part of the itinerary of the Royal Museums Several of the cars from her precious true love, who she married shortly before Ferdinand of Savoy-Genoa, the first Duke of (www.museireali.beniculturali.it). collection are displayed at Turin’s National dying of Tuberculosis in 1939. Although Teresa Genoa and of Elizabeth of Saxony, was born. It was here, in the ballroom that Margherita Car Museum (www.museoauto.it). Ferrero Navarrini was one of the most influential Margherita lived here throughout her signed a wedding contract in 1868 with pioneers of the theatre industry, she has been childhood, developing an inherent love her cousin Umberto, the son of King Vittorio forgotten with the passing of time. of poetry, art and music. Emanuele II. When she was crowned the first Queen The couple married shortly thereafter in LANDMARK consort of Italy, she surrounded herself Turin’s Duomo di San Giovanni, the same A poignant image at Turin’s Monumental An important part of our tour that is with intellectuals, ran a weekly cultural circle church that has housed the Holy Shroud Cemetery pays tribute to the dedicated to famous Torinese women at court to promote the arts, and is credited since 1578. After a lifetime spent between performances of Isa Bluette. Her tomb of the past includes the Cimitero with being the first woman to introduce Turin, Florence, Naples and Rome, Queen can be identified by the bas-relief of a Monumentale where, in addition to chamber music in Italy. Her charisma, strong Margherita made Palazzina di Caccia di dancer holding her arms above her head, the remains of the ‘Bela Rosin’ and Catholic faith and open-minded views made Stupinigi her Torinese home, following the giving an impression of lightness noblewomen of the House of Savoy, her immensely popular at court. death of her husband. and grace. the famous diva is buried. She was so deeply loved that Italian poet The complex houses the so-called ‘Queen’s Giosuè Carducci dedicated an ode to her. Garage’, a collection of cars from emerging This ode, titled ‘To the Queen of Italy’, Italian automobile houses. Few people know is a part of Carducci’s collection of that Margherita, an independent, forward- Powerful Women on Show Barbarian Odes. thinking woman, was one of the first people Credit for the fact that Palazzo Madama looks like a Baroque residence rather than an austere fortress goes to two women. Though different, they were both of French origin and both queens for long periods of their lives. These two women of the House of Savoy, TIP FOR FOODIES known as the Royal Madames, were the charming Christine Marie of France (1606-1663), RITA LEVI-MONTALCINI, the consort of Victor Amadeues I, and the feisty Marie Jeanne Baptiste of Savoy-Nemours Do you know why Italy’s most famous WOMAN OF SCIENCE (1644-1724), the wife of Charles Emanuel II. Christine and Marie Jeanne Baptiste, were pizza is called ‘Margherita’? It’s an Another illustrious Torinese woman, Rita powerful women and exercised this power to defend the role and autonomy of their interesting story. In 1889, shortly after Levi-Montalcini, was a doctor and scientist country. Until 6 May, they will be the key figures of the exhibition titled ‘Royal Madames. the Unification of Italy, Margherita of Jewish origin. She won a Nobel Prize for Culture and power from Paris to Turin ’ hosted at ‘their’ Palazzo Madama. More than of Savoy, previously queen consort Medicine in 1986, was named a Senator 120 works, including paintings, objet d’art, furnishings, fabrics, jewelry, ceramics and of Italy, was visiting Naples with her for Life in 2001, and was the first woman to engravings pay testimony to their lives, interior décor-style choices, political and cultural husband, King Umberto I. To honour be admitted to the Pontifical Academy of activities, loves and fashions, highlighting multi-faceted court life during the Baroque era. the visiting queen, famous Neapolitan Sciences. Although she originally left Turin pizzamaker Raffaele Esposito of Pizzeria due Italy’s racial laws, and later to take up a Royal Madames: Culture and Power from Paris to Turin Brandi, invented a specialty called post at Washington University in St. Louis, 20 December 2018 - 6 May 2019 Pizza Margherita. she never severed her ties with the city Palazzo Madama, Sala del Senato. Piazza Castello. T: 011 4433501. www.palazzomadamatorino.it

of her birth. © STUDIPO GONNELLA

14 WHERE TURIN I MARCH 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 15 WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

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16 WHERE TURIN I MARCH 2019 WHERE NOW | AROUND THE CORNER

WHERE A royal TIP setting and The Regge Sabaude an aperitivo The most beautiful arias of world-class opera resound in

In addition to offering an overview of olden-day court life, the Regge Sabaude MARY416/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM the spectacular Salone d’Onore © of the Stupinigi Hunting Lodge. testifies to the modern history of Piedmont and Italy. BY GIULIA MINERO On Sunday 24 March, as part of the cycle of concerts featured within the ‘Opera at Court’ event, he royal residences are easily of work by several prominent architects of and is only 10km as the crow flies from audiences will be treated to Gaetano accessible by bus or car from the era, including Amedeo di Castellamonte, Piazza Castello. Donizetti’s ‘L’elisir d’amore’. Opera Turin, and are among some of Michelangelo Garove and lastly Filippo In addition to being used for long hunting singers, accompanied on the piano the best-preserved examples Juvarra, who designed many of its most expeditions in the company of members by M° Giorgio Martano, will enthrall of 17th and 18th century beautiful and widely photographed spaces, of the local aristocracy, Stupinigi was often the public with the world’s greatest European architecture. They including the Grand Gallery, the Chapel of chosen by members of the Savoy household opera arias. Guests can enjoy an are a living testimony to the prestige of the Saint Hubert and the imposing 18th-century for celebrations and dynastic weddings. aperitivo prior to the concert. T th local monarchy, the Savoy family, the first complexes of the Juvarra Stables and the At the beginning of the 20 century, Queen L’elisir d’amore. Sunday 24 at 7pm. kings of unified Italy. In addition to Castello Citroniera (Orangerie), now used to host Margherita of Savoy took up permanent Salone d’Onore of the del Valentino and Villa della Regina (see Top exhibitions and events. residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi became the Stupinigi Hunting Lodge in Town), the favourite city-based residences Inside the Reggia di Venaria Reale, multimedia headquarters of the Furniture Museum, Piazza Principe Amedeo, 7 - Stupinigi www.teatrosuperga.it of duchesses and princesses, and the installations enable visitors to reconstruct the and a space for events and concerts. In Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi fortress of Castello di Moncalieri, the Regge history of court life, while the apartments of addition to its original furnishings and Sabaude complex, listed as a UNESCO World King Vittorio Emanuele II of Savoy and his wife paintings, the museum hosts several into an aristocratic residence, and enlarged Heritage site in 1997, includes hunting Rosa Vercellana, remodelled in the adjacent masterpieces of cabinetry. with the addition of a wing known as lodges and country residences, embellished Castello della Mandria, are open for public The lodge’s beautifully manicured French the Manica Lunga, with the ducal with gardens that reflect the sophistication viewing, as is the room hosting the collection gardens and internal spaces are open for picture gallery. Its imposing spaces are of courtly life. of royal jewels. On the last floor of the palace, public viewing, while its historic park, a part now the headquarters of a Museum of above the monumental corridor known as of the hunting reserve, is closed to the Contemporary Art, which also hosts REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE the Galleria di Diana, discerning diners can public www.ordinemauriziano.it temporary exhibitions. Located inside the Park of La Mandria, enjoy a delightful meal at the Dolce Stil The courtyard of the castle is also home in the historic centre of the town of Venaria, Novo alla Reggia, the Reggia’s Michelin- CASTELLO DI RIVOLI to Combal.Zero, a contemporary starred the Reggia di Venaria Reale is a Baroque-style starred restaurant. www.lavenaria.it Established as a military fortress in 1247, the restaurant whose panoramic glass walls offer complex built in the mid-17th century as a Rivoli Castle was the first residence of the glorious views across the countryside as well glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI Savoy duchy. as the surrounding castle. II. Its present-day appearance is the result Stupinigi was built in Baroque style in 1729, During the 17th century, it was converted www.castellodirivoli.org

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ©

Reggia di Venaria Reale CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM PIO3/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ©

Reggia di Venaria Reale © Chapel of Saint Hubert Castello di Rivoli (Manica Lunga) Castello di Rivoli OLGYSHA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ©

18 WHERE TURIN I MARCH 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 19 WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

artists, were either used to store bottles of wine, or as pantries, because the temperature inside them remains constant. Several of these old Discovering Piedmont ‘infernot’ are open for public viewing, especially during the ‘vendemmia’ (grape harvest) or on special occasions (www.ecomuseopietracantoni. it). If you feel like sampling some wine, you’ll be spoilt for choice. Although the majority of local wines are red and full-bodied, like Barbera,

MIKEDOTTA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Grignolino and Freisa, you’ll also find a good © selection of whites, including Moscato. An absolute ‘must’ for wine connoisseurs visiting the area is the Enoteca Regionale di Vignale Monferrato. Located in a magnificent 17th century ‘palazzo’, the Enoteca is a great place to taste and purchase some of the area’s best local wines (www.enotecadelmonferrato.it).

ROERO Roero is situated in the northeastern part of the province of Cuneo, to the left of the Tanaro river. Like the neighbouring Langhe, this area is renowned for its enogastronomic and Historic wine cellar in Langhe cultural offerings. Among its castles, the Castle of Govone is particularly noteworthy. The castle is located in the province of are its numerous castles, including that of castellodiserralunga.it). After the long walk up Cuneo and was formerly one of the royal Grinzane Cavour. Built in the 13th century to the castle, take a break and treat yourself residences of the House of Savoy and currently home to the headquarters of the to a delicious gourmet meal at the Da Guido (www.castellorealedigovone.it). Located just ‘Cavour Regional Enoteca’, the castle, in addition restaurant located in the nature reserve of a short distance from Alba, the Castle of to stocking several of the region’s finest Doc Fontanafredda (www.guidoristorante.it). Monticello is one of the most imposing and and Docg wines, also hosts the interesting best-preserved medieval buildings in the area Langhe Museum (www.castellogrinzane. MONFERRATO owing to the fact that since 1372 it has been com). Other must-sees include the Castle of Stretching southwards, as far as the foot of owned and inhabited by the Roero family of Barolo and its surrounding town, which gives the Ligurian Appenines, the Monferrato area Monticello (www.roerodimonticello.it). There’s its name to the most famous Italian red wine occupies a fertile tract of terrain between the nothing that says ‘royal highness’ more than a and is thought to date back to mediaeval times. provinces of Alessandria and Asti. In addition castle. Experience what it feels like to be a prince STEVANZZ/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM © The town is home to WiMu, a unique wine to numerous historic, cultural and outdoor or princess for one night and stay at the Castle museum that takes visitors on an immersive activities, Monferrato is renowned for its of Guarene, an important stopover on the journey through the history of viticulture via gastronomic specialties. Nature, culture, art and Piedmontese Baroque itinerary which also hosts Avant-garde wineries, a legacy light, film and installations. The museum is religion combine in a walk that takes visitors a hotel belonging to the Relais&Châteaux chain his is UNESCO’s official reason of changing colours and softly rolling hills. set over three floors of the village’s stunning on a journey to discover the Nature Park of (www.castellodiguarene.com). of world-class cuisine and for adding the wine-growing Although geographically the Langhe, Roero medieval castle, and the tour includes a visit to the Sacro Monte di Crea, in the province of For real foodies, an absolute must is the famous marvelous landscapes. All of regions of the Langhe- and Monferrato are neighbouring regions, the building’s panoramic terrace and its ancient Alessandria, a real feat of architectural design sausage of Bra, a delectable product made from these things have earned the Roero and Monferrato to its they all have different morphologies, and wine cellars (www.wimubarolo.it). After visiting that encompasses Mount Crea and its sanctuary, lean beef and bacon. Since it requires hardly world heritage list in 2014. “An cultural characteristics. The region’s varied the museum in Barolo, stop in the village of which in turn, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. any ageing, it’s eaten fresh year-round and areas of the Langhe, Roero and exceptional living testimony to landscape provides fertile soil for an impressive La Morra, better known as ‘the terrace of the If you prefer a historical visit to an excursion, traditionally served raw, usually as an antipasto, Monferrato UNESCO World Tthe historical tradition of grape growing and array of local specialties: from superlative wine, Langhe’ thanks to its spectacular views, and don’t miss the Eco Museum of ‘Pietra da or cooked in a sauce that is used to dress ‘tajarin’ Heritage status, resulting in winemaking processes, of a social context, to the prized white truffles of Alba, porcini head to Massimo Camia’s starred restaurant for Cantone’ – a type of sandstone only found in this (typically fresh Piedmontese pasta) or polenta and a rural economy based on viticulture. The mushrooms and IGP hazelnuts. Located just a fabulous gourmet meal (www.massimocamia. area – in Cella Monte. In addition to informing (www.salsicciadibra.it). an elite tourist destination. vineyards of the Langhe-Roero and Monferrato an hour’s drive from Turin, these regions can be it). In addition to other specialties, the area is visitors about the history, landscapes and art Only a few kilometers from Bra, a trip to the BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI are an outstanding example of man’s interaction accessed by car (several of the larger centres can renowned for its famous three-lobed hazelnut, of Monferrato, the museum also organizes architectural complex of the Agenzia di Pollenzo with his natural surroundings.” also be reached by train). Other options include boasting ‘Protected Geographical Indication’ initiatives and events targeted at highlighting is well worth your time. Built in 1833, as a country This area is protected as a ‘cultural heritage’ one of the many organized wine and tasting status and used to make various sweet treats. the historical characteristics of the place. For residence for the House of Savoy, it now hosts which is symbolic, because man has managed tours on offer. Ask your concierge. If you want to purchase these tantalizing some years now, the museum has undertaken the first University of Gastronomic Sciences to shape it, giving it the unique characteristics specialties and see how they’re made, visit the arduous but worthwhile task of taking an in the world. This university was founded that it boasts today. THE LANGHE Giovanni Cogno’s artisanal workshop (www. inventory of the ‘infernot’ in the area. ’Infernot’ and promoted by the international Slow In this area, the vineyards of several of the The Langhe are situated between the Tanaro giovannicogno.it). Lastly, an absolute ‘must’ for are dark, airless underground spaces, carved out Food association, which studies, protects and world’s most famous wines, including Barolo, River and Liguria, between the provinces lovers of medieval history and architecture is in stone, located beneath houses and cellars that, disseminates the agricultural and enogastromic Barbaresco, Asti Spumante and Barbera, of Asti and Cuneo. Particularly noteworthy a visit to the Castle of Serralunga d’Alba, a in some instances, are real underground tunnels. traditions of countries worldwide stretch as far as the eye can see, in a display among the area’s many tourist attractions beautifully preserved Gothic stronghold (www. These works of arts, carved and modeled by (www.agenziadipollenzo.com).

20 WHERE TURIN I MARCH 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 21 [ DAILY TOURS ] Fashion outlets

Not far from Turin, in Piedmont, don’t miss a trip to these shopping destinations offering discounts all year-round. LUGANO MENDRISIO BERGAMO BRESCIA Vicolungo NOVARA The Style Outlets TRIESTE ? MILANO Torino ? Outlet Village TORINO ALESSANDRIA ? PIACENZA Torino Outlet Village Vicolungo The Style Outlets BOLOGNA MAR ? GENOVASerravalle ADRIATICO Designer Outlet Mondovicino Outlet Village THE APPENNINI RIMINI MAR LIGURE MOUNTAIN RIDGE PISA VENTIMIGLIA FIRENZE

LIVORNO ANCONA SIENA Serravalle Designer Outlet Mondovicino Outlet Village

PERUGIA TORINO OUTLET VILLAGE VICOLUNGO THE STYLE SERRAVALLE DESIGNER MONDOVICINO OUTLET Torino Outlet Village is an elegant OUTLETS OUTLET VILLAGE and relaxing place to spend a Situated 40 minutes from Turin, in The largest Designer Outlet in Situated 1 hour from Turin, in the province of Novara, this is the Europe, McArthurGlen Serravalle the province of Cuneo, it offers day’s shopping, thanks also to PESCARA top-end restaurants and services CORSICAideal place to spend an exciting is located 90 minutes away from a unique shopping experience for families. Open 7 days a day’s tour where shopping, Turin’s city center. Its beautiful combining the appeal of the week, 10am-8pm (Sat, Sun and entertainment and relaxation setting combines all the appeal of fashion brands with the beauties festivities 10am-9pm). combine to satisfy all desires. Open luxury designerROMA brands with the of the environment (between • WHERE: at just 15 minutes from 7 days a week from 10 am to 8 pm. beauties of the surrounding area. the Langhe in Piedmont and the the centre of Turin, 30 minutes • WHERE: take the A4MAR Torino- TIRRENO• WHERE: take the A21 and the Ligurian coast). Open 7 days a from the main cities in Piedmont Milano motorway and exit at A26 motorways and exit to Novi week from 10 am to 8 pm. and 75 minutes from Milan, near Biandrate Vicolungo. Daily shuttle Ligure. From the railway stations • WHERE: take the A6 Torino- NAPOLI the exits from the A4 and A5 service is available from Milan. of Arquata Scrivia, Serravalle Savona motorway and exit at motorways, the Outlet is easy to Departure from Turin - Piazza Scrivia and Novi Ligure, you can Mondovì. Free shuttle service is reach at Settimo Torinese. Daily Carlo Felice, 63 (in front of Porta catch a shuttle bus running every available from Turin, departure shuttle bus service from the Nuova train station) at 10am. For day from 9am to 8.20pm. from Turin (Corso Vittorio city centre and a weekly service information and reservation: 02 • WHAT: a unique shopping Emanuele II corner of via Sacchi) from the main tourist resorts inSARDEGNA 867131 www.zaniviaggi.it. experience with 300 of your at 9.15am, return at 4.50pm Piedmont and Valle d’Aosta. • WHAT: 150 prestigious designer favourite designer brands – from the outlet to Turin. For • WHAT: a must for all shopping stores – including Armani, Missoni, Gucci, Dolce&Gabbana, Hugo information and reservation: 011 lovers, Torino Outlet Village offers Trussardi, Tommy Hilfiger, Cavalli, Boss, Bluemarine, Versace, La 19704670 www.zalunviaggi.com. 90 stores (Armani, Coach, Gucci, Calvin Klein and Twin Set – Perla, Pollini, Roberto Cavalli, • WHAT: over 90 prestigious La Perla, Michael Kors, Guess, offering clothing for the whole Brooks Brothers, Fratelli Rossetti, designer stores – including a Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger and family, sportswear, homeware and Casadei and many more… – Adidas, Alviero Martini 1 Classe, more) specializing in clothing, beauty products at discounted for up to 30-70% less all year Enrico Coveri, Fratelli Rossetti, accessories and footwear, prices of up to 70% all year round. round. Multiple services include Kappa and Liu.Jo Uomo – offering household articles, sport and • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: Vicolungo free Wifi, multilingual staff, a clothing for men, women and personal care under top Italian The Style Outlets also hosts art children’s playground, café and children, sportswear, homeware and international labels, and with exhibitions, events and other restaurants for a perfect shopping and beauty products at discounts of up to 70% all year- initiatives for a enjoyable day’s experience at unbelievable prices! discounted prices of up to 70% all round. www.torinooutletvillage.com outing. www.thestyleoutlets.it McArthurGlen.it/Serravalle year round. www.mondovicino.it

22 WHERE TURIN I MARCH 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 23 SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN ACCESSORIES W The Guidelines M H Ombrellificio Torinese E O This directory, grouped by category, is a list of Atelier Nina Tauro R . C E R Located in the ancient Barriera di Milano district, this T R E establishments recommended by the editors of Atelier Nina Tauro was established in September A V E L artisanal workshop has created bespoke umbrellas Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. 2006 in the vibrant San Salvario district. A workshop that produces a variety of hat styles, including totally since 1931. In his shop, Carlo, the fifth generation MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold unique, handmade models in fabric, felt, leather of the founding family, makes numerous models, at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the and crochet. All materials are carefully selected, sewing the rib tips by hand and assembling the coordinates on the street map (pages 46-47). with a particular focus on quality. Inserts and details, multi-coloured fabrics and materials. Customers including flowers, buckles, lace and trimmings, can personalize their own umbrellas, choosing SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from are prevalently vintage. In addition to winning the from different fabrics, embroidery, shafts and 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take ‘Eccellenza Artigiana’ (Artisanal Excellence) award edgings. The handles in acacia or transparent resin the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed from the Piedmont region in 2009, in 2010 the Atelier can be filled with copper threads, shells, ribbons on Sundays (except those located in central Turin) was awarded the Slow Fashion registered trademark or dried flowers… a real sartorial, tailor-made and on Monday mornings. by CNA Turin which guarantees 100% Made in Italy umbrella. Open Mon, Wed, Fri 9.30am-6pm; Tues Ask your concierge. quality and workmanship. The Atelier also creates 9.30am-12noon/2pm-6pm; Thurs by appointment Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is made-to-order hats for brides and special occasions. only; Sat 8am-12noon. www.ombrelli.it. Via Sesia, generally included in the price of goods. Open Tues-Sat 11am-1pm/4pm-8pm. Via S. Anselmo, 23/b. T: 011 852104. 26/C. Off Map Off Map TAX-FREE SHOPPING » By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: [email protected]

UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By June 2018, more than 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 10,000 merchants are located in Turin. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as Rinascente department stores, McArthurGlen Designer Outlets, SINA hotels, Aspesi fashion boutiques, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders.

DINING I want the CR7 jersey Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the Juventus paid Real Madrid 100 million euros for Cristiano Ronaldo but you can pay less. price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as It’s springtime at The team’s official megastore offers everything your heart desires. a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge Vicolungo The Style Outlets! corresponding to the cost of the service and Spring is just around the corner, meaning that it’s time to say ‘so long’ to coats, scarves ffering more than 600 official products, headquarters, alongside the Juve Stadium >> STADIUM MEGASTORE bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, and gloves and get ready for the approaching season! Vicolungo The Style Outlets offers semiformal clothing is usually considered de 800 square meters of display space and Museum. Throughout its long history, the c/o Allianz Stadium everything that you need to gear-up for the warmer weather. Boasting 150 boutiques rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars Oand décor designed to offer an Club, which was established in 1897, has won Via Druento, 153. are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ and more than 300 Italian and international brands, the centre offers the ideal mixture electrifying experience, a megascreen, two almost every match and championship. In 2017, Open daily 9am-8.30pm. area is specifically offered. of style, quality and value-for-money, with year-round discounts of from 30 to 70% off innovative transparent ledwalls, two self check- before Cristiano Ronaldo joined the team, there Set meals: prices are per person and usually the retail price. All of the best spring-summer collections are available at the centre. out totems and ten hot presses enabling fans to were 23 million Juve fans worldwide but, after >> TORINO CITY CENTER refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). Vicolungo The Style Outlets also offers sports enthusiasts who are not quite ready to bid € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / personalize their ‘bianconere’ jerseys in only two the arrival of the ‘Phenomenon’, the team’s Via Garibaldi, 4/E. adieu to cold and the snow a fabulous selection of high-end brands including Colmar, €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. minutes. In addition to selling books, posters popularity enjoyed a new lease of life, with Open daily 10am-7.30pm. The North Face, Napapijri, Salomon, Timberland, Kappa, Dolomite, Quiksilver and Odlo. and memorabilia, the space’s well-stocked 61,800,000 followers on social media. If you SIGHTSEEING Located just 40 minutes from Turin, Vicolungo The Style Outlets is easily reachable by bookstore hosts ‘Meets&Greets’ with players, want to take home a memento of this glorious >> TORINO LINGOTTO The information provided on museums and car (A4 Motorway, Biandrate-Vicolungo exit). It is also connected to the city centre by monuments is verified as meticulously as offering ‘Juve’ enthusiasts a chance to take team, remember that prior to the matches c/o Centro Commerciale a comfortable shuttle service which departs on Saturdays and Sundays at 10am from possible. However, data such as telephone unforgettable photos, and have them signed spectators can access nine pop-up sales 8 Gallery (food court) numbers, opening hours, prices and the Piazza Carlo Felice, in front of the Porta Nuova station. Vicolungo The Style Outlets offers with autographs. If you’re one of millions of Juve points, one in each sector of the stadium, Via Nizza, 262. accessibility of sites are all subject to change, numerous services, including tax-free shopping, free Wi-Fi, a personal shopper on request fans throughout the world, the team’s official plus a Juventus VIP Store in the Allianz Open Mon-Thurs 10am-9pm; on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration and mini-bike-sharing for kids. By presenting this page at the Info Point, you can collect Megastore won’t disappoint. This futuristic Stadium’s Atrium of Honour. In addition to the Fri-Sun 10am-10pm. work, museum loans or changes your shopping card which entitles you to an additional 10% discount on the outlet price of management. Ask your concierge. store is one of Turin’s top-rated attractions on megastore, the city also boasts two official of participating stores. For more information visit http://vicolungo.thestyleoutlets.it visitors’ bucket lists, and is located in the club’s Juventus sales points. www.juventus.com

24 WHERE TURIN I MARCH 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 25 [ FASHION DESIGNERS ] SHOPPING

Regina owners often pamper their clientele with makeup Boggi Milano Located in the picturesque piazza Gran Madre, this artists or manicurists. www.melissatorino.com. Men’s fashion is a perfect blend of stylistic research Top Brands Open Mon-Sat 11am-2pm; 3,30pm-7,30pm. Via G. shop, selling handbags and accessories, will satisfy and high-quality fabrics, offering clients a product your every whim, whether you’re lovers of Ash biker Ferrari, 4. T: 011 8395813. Map H4 that’s excellent value for money. www.boggi.com. boots, Golden Goose sneakers, Aquazzura pumps, GUCCI—www.gucci.com Open daily 10am- SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com Via XX Settembre, 11/c. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Castaner wedges or Stuart Weitzman’s jeweled Tues- Sat 10am-7.30pm. Map E5 * Stazione Porta 7.30pm. Via Roma, 112. T: 011 4546632. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 335. T: CLOTHING A stroll through the streets sandals. It also stocks a selection of bags, bijoux Nuova - Via Nizza. Open Mon-Sun 8am-9pm. T: 011 Map F4 011 535345. Map E5 • Open Mon 3.30pm- MEN & WOMEN of the centre, amidst elegant and auteur fragrances. www.reginashoes.it. Open 5 622017. Map E6 7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1pm/3.30pm- Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 9am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm; Antonioli HERMÈS—www.hermes.com Open Mon-Sat Caramello royal porticoes (that extend 7.30pm. Corso Racconigi, 32 bis. Thurs-Fri 9am-7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3pm- This multi-brand boutique for men and women Located in the centre of Turin, this large showroom for 18km across the city), and 10.15am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via Roma, 124. T: 011 3852651. Off Map 7.30pm. Via Villa della Regina, 3. T: 011 8193029. in located in piazza Carlina, one of the city’s spread over two floors, offers a wide selection of T: 011 546971. Map F4 Map I6 main squares. Antonioli stocks a mixture of squares embellished with men and women’s fashions. The assortment ranges WOLFORD—www.wolford.it unconventional, prestigious designer labels Turineyes from Elisabetta Franchi’s feminine, contemporary sumptuous architecture, is a ITALIA INDEPENDENT— Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10am- including Rick Owens, Jil Sander, Anne If you’ve always dreamt of a bespoke pair of glasses, collections to sartorial men’s brand Tagliatore, www.italiaindependent.com 1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Thus-Sat 10am- Demeulemeester, Maison Margiela and Gareth unique opportunity to soak leave a mark on your nose, adapt perfectly to the from Dondup, the queen of Made-in-Italy denim, Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat Pugh. The choice of designer labels and the store’s 7.30pm; Sun 3.30pm-7pm. Via A. Doria, 6. shape of your face, and are practical yet stylish, then to Patrizia Pepe and Manuel Ritz. Caramello also up the city’s authentic charm. interior decor are a reflection of Claudio Antonioli’s 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. T: 011 531348. Map F5 this is the place for you. Unique models of both has an outlet in the Crocetta district, showcasing personal style. His philosophy is based on blending It’s also a great destination for Via G.L. Lagrange, 31. T: 011 19885704. prescription and sunglasses, that take around 20 last season’s collections at affordable prices. contemporary taste with alternative solutions in Map F5 days to execute, can be delivered worldwide. www. caramellostore.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; shopping enthusiasts. In the a practical manner. www.antonioli.eu. Open Mon turineyes.it. Mon-Sat 9.30am-1pm/2.30pm-7pm. Via Tues-Fri 10.30am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 11am-7.30pm. Piazza heart of the city, often referred L’AUTRE CHOSE—www.lautrechose.com Mazzini, 33. T: 347 1882008. Map G6 Corso G. Ferraris, 2. T: 011 5175090. Map D3 Carlo Emanuele II, 19. T: 011 883253. Map G5 to as ‘little Paris’, you’ll find Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am- BEAUTY the best fashion brands. In 7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 20/A. T: 011 19468000. Map F5 Alkemy particular, the austere and This small space in the centre of Turin concocts elegant via Roma and the LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com magical alchemies for body, face and haircare. The parallel via Lagrange, do Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 320. Alkemy line includes strictly natural nutricosmetics T: 011 5620678. Map E5 and dermoactives, whose effectiveness lies in the justice to the exquisite Italian power of the natural plants and ingredients used, and international fashions on MARINA RINALDI—it.marinarinaldi.com which no other company in the world combines or makes available, including Klamath, the ultimate display. Alternately, a reference Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via Roma, 314. T: 011 5187050. Map E5 wild superfood. www.myalkemy.it. Mon-Fri point for young, trendy 9.30am-1pm/2.30pm-6pm. Via V. Alfieri, 6. T: 011 5581755. Map E4 fashion is via Garibaldi – one MAX & CO.—it.maxandco.com of the longest pedestrian Open Mon 11am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am- L’Arcade des Parfums 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 69. This niche perfumery, whose name is inspired streets in Europe – which T: 011 541276. Map F4 by the arcaded porticoes of Corso Vittorio

runs from Piazza Castello to Emanuele II, conducts ongoing research on its signature style. Take an olfactory journey amidst Piazza Statuto. The ideal place MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am- luxury perfume brands, fragrances created by illustrious Maître Parfumeurs, cosmetics and for lovers of antiques and 7pm. Via Roma, 322. T: 011 5618172. makeup. The Arcade also offers a wide range Map E5 vintage items is via Po, which of home fragrances and scented candles, links Piazza Castello to Piazza select bijoux, facials and makeup sessions. MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com Open Mon-Sat www.larcadedesparfums-profumeria.it. Open Vittorio Veneto. 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 6c. T: 011 Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-7.30pm; 4782004. Map F4 Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Corso Vittorio ASPESI—Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat Emanuele II, 74/F. T: 011 5621148. Map D5 10.30am-7.30pm. Galleria San Federico, 46. MONCLER—www.moncler.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2. Jo Malone London T: 011 5613577. Map F4 The entire product range of this prestigious British T: 011 5618744 Map F4 Put yourself in my shoes brand is showcased at the airy boutique located in In 2012, a year before founding Velasca, Enrico Casati worked in Singapore. He wanted a pair BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— the city’s central via Lagrange. Perfumes, candles, MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com of elegant shoes, the kind that, like a well-cut suit, Italian men take for granted, but he couldn’t www.brunellocucinelli.com Open Mon-Sat diffusers, bath and body care and home products, 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 8. T: 011 Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. all featuring the iconic fragrances of Jo Malone find what he was looking for. He teamed up with Jacopo Sebastio, his current business partner 4407207. Map F4 Via Roma, 104. T: 011 5187109. London that can be combined to create your own and, together, they established a new company with a clear mission. Their goal was twofold: to Map E5 bespoke scent. All customers visiting the boutique create elegant, timeless shoes for people who prefer elegance to passing fads, and to make are offered a relaxing, scented hand massage. CALVIN KLEIN—www.calvinklein.com Italian quality more accessible to those living in foreign countries. Initially, to keep costs to a Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma,342. PRADA—www.prada.com Open Mon-Sat www.jomalone.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues- minimum and facilitate contact, Velasca only sold its footwear online. The company opened T: 011 5613226. Map F4 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Sat 10am–7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via Lagrange, 4/a. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2/q. T: 011 3710203. T: 011 4546467. Map F4 its first venue in Milan, the owners’ city of origin, and later another one in Rome. At the end of CHANEL—www.chanel.com Open Mon-Sat Map F4 Melissa 2017, Velasca opened a third branch in Turin, with the idea of “creating a meeting place where 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2. T: 011 Just steps from the Mole Antonelliana, Melissa is people who had previously placed online orders from afar could actually hold, touch and try on 5066699. Map F4 ROBE DI KAPPA—www.robedikappa.com much more than a herbalist. Customers visiting the the products”. However, its mission has not changed. Velasca continues to manufacture Italian

Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via G. Garibaldi, space will find a vast selection of organic products, shoes, designed and produced in Italy by craftsmen who use their time-honoured skills to dress 33. T: 011 19886532. Map F3 GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani com including makeup, cosmetics, hair products, modern men. Unsurprisingly, the Velasca Bottega in Turin is located just steps from Piazza Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza San Carlo, natural soaps, candles, cups and teapots, Bodoni, in an elegant, stylish district hosting print shops, art galleries and Baroque palaces. A 145. T: 011 5627768. Map E5 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— perfumes and herbal teas, plus teas and infusions ‘salotto’ where people can discuss the merits of Made in Italy while trying on lace-up shoes, • Emporio Armani: Via Buozzi Bruno, 5. www.ferragamo.com GIORGIO ARMANI’s cotton and silk satin bow of all types. Its interior, decorated with flower- patterned wallpaper, hat stands, velvet sofas boots, Oxford or formal shoes in the knowledge that they will fit to perfection T. 011 5625977. Map F4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. tie with a velcro fastening adds a touch of style

Via Roma, 108. T: 011 5625940. to an elegant evening outfit and vintage furniture, is reminiscent of a French Via G. Mazzini 22/e. T: 02 9475546. it.velasca.com - Map G6 boudoir. In addition to organizing events, its Map E5

26 WHERE TURIN I MARCH 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 27 SHOPPING

Kristina Ti relaxed elegance and low-key femininity. www. Green footwear, Amouage fragrances and Pasotti The standalone store of famous Torinese brand verdelilla.it. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Corso Re umbrellas. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am- Kristina offers romantic, highly feminine Umberto, 27. T: 011 5172701. Map D6 1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www.astrua.com. collections designed by Cristina Tardito. Via C. Battisti, 15. T: 011 5613589. Map F4 At this warm, welcoming space, located just a DEPARTMENT STORE stone’s throw from piazza Castello, you’ll find Rocca 1794 clothing for free spirited, independent women, Rinascente ROLEX RETAILER Master jewelers and who are not prepared to sacrifice a touch Italy’s most prestigious temple of high-end watchmakers since the 18th century, Rocca rates of seductive frivolity. www.kristinati.it Open Mon shopping is located in the city’s highly central via among the first importers of luxury Swiss watches. 3.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Maria Lagrange. This department store offers the best Rocca pays homage to fine watchmaking with a Vittoria, 18. T: 011 837170. Map F4 in fashion for men, women and children, alongside selection of the world’s most prestigious brands a selection of accessories, design, homeware and including Damiani, Rolex, Ulysse Nardin, Omega, Turin Via Roma, 290 Posh beauty by the best Italian and international brands. Breitling, Blancpain, Venini and Salvini. Rocca is At this multi-brand store, situated in the prestigious At its food market, you’ll find the best gourmet acknowledged for its longstanding tradition of piazza San Carlo in the heart of the city, you’ll find Made-in-Italy foods, and a fabulous selection of professionalism and expert consultancy. Located in a selection of clothing, perfumes and accessories prestigious international products. Don’t miss the the shadow of the Mole Antonelliana, its founder, by several of the world’s most prestigious renewed floors: -1 (home-food-design), 3rd and 4th Alberto Rocca, opened his first boutique at the end international brands. This highly selective choice floors (women’s fashion). Open Mon-Fri 9.30am- of the 18th century. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm; of clothing for men and women includes big-name 8pm; Sat 9.30am-8.30pm; Sun10am-8pm. Via G.L. Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www.rocca1794. brands like See by Chloè, Vivienne Westwood, Lagrange, 15. T: 011 5170075. Map F5 com. Via Roma, 290. T: 011 5621467/5629260. Karl Lagerfeld, Comme des Garçons and Jean Map F4 Charles de Castelbajac www.poshtorino.com. JEWELLERY & WATCHES Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10.30am- 1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Thurs 10.30am-7.30pm; Astrua 1860 LEATHER & LUGGAGE Fri-Sun 10.30am-1.30pm, 3.30pm-7.30pm. Via Roma, ROLEX RETAILER Astrua 1860, one of the oldest Maledetti Toscani 218. T: 011 5622365. Map F4 watchmakers in Europe, is located in the heart This story began in 1848 in Montepulciano, of Turin, between the First Italian Parliament and San Carlo dal 1973 Tuscany, when the great-great grandfather of the National Library. A key visitor attraction at the the present owners opened a leather workshop. CONCEPT STORE An historic Torinese clothing entrance to the boutique is an elevator operated Today, although Maledetti Toscani owns shops store, located in its namesake square. This large with a visible gear mechanism reminiscent of those in Europe, the USA and Canada, it continues to multi-brand store, dedicated to the best collections used in watches. At its historic store, boasting an focus religiously on time-honoured Made-in-Italy of clothing, accessories and perfumes, skillfully innovative, modern concept, Astrua presents its craftsmanship. Hence, the creation of footwear, mixes designer labels with alternative brands; a contemporary jewelry creations, exquisite leather renowned for its delightfully aged appearance, repository of non-conformist ideas, where you goods and precious accessories. In addition to crafted in only the finest leathers, dyed with tree can search for items that are never ordinary. The several of the world’s most coveted watch brands, tannins and enhanced with real leather soles, and list of brands available is vast and includes Acne including Rolex, Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, hand woven, hand-stitched artisanal bags. www. Studios, DKNY, Issey Miyake, Jil Sander, Lanvin and Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, Omega, Panerai, IWC, maledettitoscani.com. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm. Via Marni. Other highlights include cosmetics by Santa Hublot, Baume&Mercier, Longines and Montblanc, P. Micca, 18. T: 011 5579134. Maria Novella and niche perfumes by Byredo and Maison Astrua 1860 stocks Murano glass by Venini, Map E4 Diptyque. www.sancarlodal1973.com. Open Mon creations by Chopard, luxury accessories, Edward 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Piazza San Carlo, 201. T: 011 5114110. Map F4 SO San Lorenzo An ideal destination for lovers of a chic, sought- after style, this stand-alone store offers a selection of established and emerging brands including Loboutin, Azzedine Alaia, Isabel Marant and Giambattista Valli. Additionally, its homeware department features furnishing fabrics, unique design pieces and a careful selection of tableware and furnishing accessories. www.sosanlorenzo. it. Open Mon3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am- 7.30pm. Via Des Ambrois, 7. T: 011 883531. Map G5 Top Ten Located in the highly central via Soleri, this two- level space has been, since its inception, a reference point for the city’s elite. Its discreet, minimalist architectural style is reflected in its meticulous, well- defined choice of brands, ranging from the avant- garde to the most prestigious international brands BARI - BOLOGNA - CATANIA - FIUMICINO - LECCE - LUGANO - MALPENSA like Comme des Garçons, Junya and Watanabe, to mention but a few. Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat MANTUA - MILAN - PADUA - TAORMINA - VENICE 10am-7.30pm. Via Soleri, 2. T: 011 535360. Map E5 Verdelilla Tucked away in a beautiful courtyard in Corso Re Rocca is the only high-end Italian jewellery and watch-making company that has distributed and proposed, Umberto, this alluring space houses a selection of coveted French and Japanese brands, by ROCCA 1794 for over 200 years, the most esteemed Brands in its Boutiques, in compliance with the concessions. designers like Tsumori Chisato, Jerome Dreyfuss The historic Rocca Boutique is a prestigious, luxury destination and the only retailer in the and Jamin Puech, and also showcases the creations city selling the world’s most desirable jewelry and watch brands. It comprises two floors, of emerging brands. Amidst fashion, accessories, four hundred square metres, nine brightly-lit shop windows and top name brands. bijoux, perfumes and cosmetics, this must-visit www.rocca1794.com boutique exudes an atmosphere of innovative taste,

28 WHERE TURIN I MARCH 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 29 SHOPPING [ RINASCENTE] PASSION SHOPPING One-stop shop Bagni Paloma This delightful concept store carries clothing, furniture and various other items including dishwashing liquids, black pepper, candles, Japanese watercolours and colognes by Parisian ceramic artist Astier de Villatte. Its fashion offerings include niche brands like Mimì à la Mer, Laura Urbinati, Ouigal, Maria La Rosa and Ishi. All the furniture used for display is on sale. www.bagnipaloma.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm- 7.30pm; Thurs-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via dei Mille, 30/d. T: 011 888569. Map G6 Culti House Torino At this small, charming boutique decorated in shades of ochre and sand, you’ll find the culture of Culti, designed to stimulate the senses in a mixture of design, art and fragrance. The space houses all the brand’s collections of room and home fragrances SAN CARLO DAL 1973 LA BELLE HISTOIRE See this page including diffusers, room sprays, candles, cosmetics See page 28 and scented pillows. www.culti.com. Open Tues-Sat 10.30am–2pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via C. Battisti, 3. T: 011 0361363. Map F4 Rrriot shop La Belle Histoire Tucked away in the creative, multi-ethnic district of Sizing Located underneath the Mole Antonelliana, this San Salvario, this shop, distinguished by its minimalist retrò-style atelier, overlooking a picturesque decor, mixes men and women’s clothing with vintage Women,s clothes courtyard, is a go-to destination for romantics who’ll jewelry and accessories and young, creative brands. find themselves surrounded by old suitcases, trunks, IT EUR US UK Thanks to ongoing research, Rrriot strives to offer The best shopping wooden vintage furniture and brocade armchairs. 36 32 1 4 its customers a range of products that are always The store offers a selection of almost exclusively different and innovative. Its aim is to introduce Turin 38 34 2 6 Made-in-Italy garments, with the exception of in Turin to Northern European brands designed exclusively 40 36 4 8 French brand Lilith, Spanish brand Hoss Intropia and for the Italian market. www.rrriotshop.com. Tues-Fri 42 38 6 10 Japanese brand Takaaki. Other highlights include 10.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-19.30pm; Sat 10.30am- Head to Rinascente: located in the a collection of strictly Italian-made footwear and a 44 40 8 12 7.30pm. Via Berthollet, 25/a. T: 011 19500239. Map F7 homeware line.www.labellehistoire.it. Open Mon 46 42 10 14 heart of the Savoy city, it offers new 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1pm; 3.30pm-7.30pm; SHOES 48 44 12 16 spaces and new brands for a unique Thurs and Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Montebello 15/g.T: shopping experience 011 8136199. Map H3 Bottega Velasca Women,s shoes Les Coquettes Located in the Borgo Nuovo district, south-east of the centre of Turin, this artisanal shoe (and IT EUR US UK Housed in a 1920s Parisian-style apartment, amidst 36 36 6 3 vintage hat stands, drawers filled with costume accessories) store for men offers customers an jewelry, antiques and pink leather sofas, this unusual, authentic Made in Italy experience. Renowned for 37 37 6.5 4 whimsical concept store, with a slightly bohemian its craftsmanship and Italian excellence, Bottega 38 38 7.5 5 Velasca offers a selection of classic, casual and formal air, offers a selection of clothing, delicious bijoux, 39 39 8.5 6 The Rinascente department store in Turin is FROM FORMAL TO Tommy Jeans, accompanied by a selection of cosmetics, candles, perfumes and furnishing footwear. Open Mon 4pm-8pm; Tues-Fri 11am- 40 40 9 7 3pm/4pm-8pm; Sat and Sun 11am-8pm. implementing a dynamic global restyling SMART CASUAL LOOKS streetwear labels, including Carhartt, Octopus accessories. www.lescoquettes.it. Open Tues-Sat 41 41 9.5 8 10.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via G. Barbaroux, www.velasca.com. Via G. Mazzini 22/e. T: 02 94755460 process that merges perfectly with the The first floor acts as a showcase for classic Quatre Cent as well as offerings for a younger, ([email protected]). Map G6 12/l. T: 011 531943. Map F3 architectural and cultural excellence of the collections, with a focus on outerwear signed trendier clientele, signed, among others, Men,s clothes Mabì city in which it is located. In keeping with the by prestigious brands including Emporio by Billabong, Obey Trasher and Volcom, all Hole IT EUR US UK Mabì is a sought-after boutique that sells couture This multi-brand store located in the heart of the upgrade of its commercial offer, the restyling Armani, Fay and Polo Ralph Lauren. The other brands originating from the world of surf and 50 46 36 36 clothing, French costume jewelry, artisanal footwear city sells high-quality footwear distinguished by its includes the introduction of new brands as side of the floor hosts more contemporary skate. Another groundbreaking addition is and natural cosmetic products. Garments on sale original design. You’ll find a interesting mix of trendy 52 48 38 38 well as a complete makeover of its façade, offerings, with brands like Corneliani Collection the creation of an outdoor clothing area, include a collection of women’s couture dresses brands here, including Ixos, Moma and Strategia, 54 50 40 40 designed especially for Mabi by Maria della alongside models by Italian and internal artisanal 56 52 42 42 floors and escalators. and Hugo Boss, or more relaxed options, also designed to be re-imagined in an urban Rocchetta, one of the two owners of the store, who producers. Also sells bags and accessories. Open On completion of the works, the via Lagrange including Aspesi or Eleventy. No elegant key, where brands showcased include EA7, has a passion for British-style floral prints. www. 58 54 44 44 FIRENZEYESPLEASE.COM Mon 3.30pm-7.15pm; Tues-Fri 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm- store will boast six floors instead of three, plus male wardrobe is complete without a shirt, Napapjri ot The North Face. As part of the mabishop.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 7.15pm; Sat 10.30am-12.30am/3.30pm-7pm. Via G. 60 56 46 46 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Thurs-Sat 10.30am- Botero, 11. T: 011 5176602. Map E3 the creation of an extra 3,200 sq.m. of retail interpreted here by world-class designers, unique, elevated shopping experience, the 7.30pm. Via della Rocca, 2/m. T: 349 2818511. Map G6 Men,s shoes PHOTO © space. A real temple of shopping offering like Neapolitan shirt maker Barba, or a pair of spotlight is also focused on footwear. Dubbed Cribì visitors the best in fashion, design, beauty and tailored trousers by menswear specialists PT01, ‘shoe heaven’ the 200-square-meter shoe area Poncif Established in 1996, and located in Turin’s highly IT EUR US UK Since 1986, this boutique has focused on a style central via Lagrange, Cribi is a multi-brand store 40 40 7.5 6 gourmet food, thanks to the presence of a Jacob Cohen, Berwich and Zanella. features the best from leading luxury designers, designed for women, who, in spite of their love for selling minimalist, alternative footwear and clothing, 41 41 8 7 cafè, a food market and an innovative in-store from more classic Made-in-Italy brands like minimalist, no-frills fashion, are nevertheless looking featuring a combination of craftsmanship and 42 42 8.5 8 gym concept. In particular, the first and CONTEMPORARY FASHION Buttero, Doucals and Fratelli Rossetti, to more to make a statement thanks to the strikingly original experimentation to create elegant, timeless lines. designs and unusual colour combinations. In addition Best sellers include boots by Fiorentini+Baker, 43 43 9 9 second floors, dedicated to men’s fashion, On the second floor, visitors will find themselves contemporary, creative labels. to the line of the Poncif brand, all the collections pumps by Del Carlo and original clothing by Malloni 44 44 10.5 10 offer a diverse array of fashion trends, to satisfy immersed in a world of contemporary showcased are based on the same principle. www. and Liviana Conti. www.cribibotique.it. Open Mon 45 45 11.5 11 the needs of all types of customers: from the fashion. Fans of denim will be spoilt for >> Rinascente Torino poncif.com. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 3.30pm-7.30 pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm- 46 46 12 12 most elegant to lovers of sports choice, thanks to iconic brands like Armani www.rinascente.it - Open 7 days a week. 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Fri 10am-7.30pm. Piazza 7.30pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 38. T: 011 5611348. Via G.L. Lagrange, 15. T: 011 5170075. Vittorio Veneto, 5\f. T: 011 8173040. Map H5 Map F5 SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE IS KINDLY THIS PAGE and streetwear. Exchange, Calvin Klein Jeans, Diesel, Levi’s and

30 WHERE TURIN I MARCH 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 31 FOOD&WINE FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN FOOD SHOPS Borgiattino Pastry Shops A reference point in Turin for lovers of traditional The traditional/age-old art of pastry making is deeply rooted in Turin, and the Piedmont cheeses, including Tome and Fontine d’alpeggio, Robiola, Gorgonzola, Ormea and city’s confectionery is famous throughout the world. Sweet treats like ‘baci Castelmagno. Located in the heart of the city, this di dama’, marron glacés and ‘giandujotti’ were invented here and exported historic ‘bottega’ also offers specialties from other abroad, while others, which are more inherently Piedmontese, are well worth Italian and European regions including Reblochon discovering. It’s therefore no surprise that the city is inundated with top-level from France and Cheddar from Britain, accompanied pastry shops. Although it’s impossible to mention them all, we’ve compiled a list by wines and other high-quality artisanal products. Open Mon-Sat 8.30am-1pm/4pm-7.30pm. of several that are rated top in town. By Chiara Zaccarelli borgiattino.com. Corso Vinzaglio, 29. T: 011 5629075. Map C4 CAFFÈ PLATTI and pear tarts. The venue is infused with a Eataly Torino Lingotto If you visit just one of Turin’s historic locales, warm, homely Provence-style atmosphere Located in Turin’s Lingotto district, Eataly is a cult then it has to be the illustrious, belle where, amidst cast iron teapots, French tin destination dedicated to Italian gastronomy, offering epoque Caffè Platti. Opened in 1870, it soon boxes, brightly-coloured cups and vintage numerous gift ideas to satisfy every palate. Set in a large converted factory, this 11,000-sq-metre became a social and cultural reference point trays, you can purchase traditional Savoy emporium, houses a vast array of eateries, serving for 20th century Turin. Here, amidst mirrors, biscuits, flower-based preserves, Leone traditional Italian and Piedmontese specialties. A gilded stuccoes, inlaid walnut furniture and candies and fruit preserved in honey. Vegan go-to destination for a sweet or savoury breakfast, a gold Louis XVI medallions, you can sample options are also available. berlicabarbis.com quick lunch, a tantalizing afternoon tea, a dinner at a Piedmontese specialties like ‘bunet’, Meliga Corso Moncalieri, 214. T: 011 2074508. pizzeria or a gourmet restaurant, without forgetting pastries, ‘bignole’ and Platti cake. Via Catania, 10. T:011 231032 Michelin-starred restaurant Casa Vicina (entrance Since 2017, the confectionery has been run from via Nizza 224). Open daily 10am/10.30pm. T: 011 by renowned patissier Guido Gobino, the FARMACIA DEL CAMBIO 19506801. www.eataly.net. Via Nizza, 230. king of Torinese chocolate. www.platti.it Off Map A sophisticated Savoy-style ‘salotto’, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 72. created in the rooms of an old apothecary Gastronomia (La) T: 011 4546151. established in 1883, in the city’s beautiful VEGAN A vegan delicatessen where you piazza Carignano. Here, you’ll find a can eat on-site, order take-aways, or even take GHIGO fabulous assortment of pastries by chef cookery courses. Its dishes, all cooked with This historic pastry shop, located just Fabrizio Galla including Veneziane, meat-free ingredients, include Seitan, Russian Sfogliatine, almond and orange cakes, and Capricciosa salad and a strictly anchovy- steps from the Mole, is famous for its hot bignès, ‘bonet’, fruit tartlets, millefeuille, free Piedmont green sauce for vegans who are chocolate, served with freshly whipped fans of Piedmont specialties. The deli is located cream and marrons glacés (a candied hazelnut cakes and croissants. Also worth in via Dante Nenni, in the heart of Borgo San chestnut covered with a sugar glaze). mention are the locale’s savoury offerings Paolo, Turin’s historical, working class district. At Christmas, Ghigo excels itself with its which include sandwiches, savoury Open Mon-Thus 10am-8pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Sat famous ‘Nuvola di Ghigo’, a traditional snacks, crusty bread, bagels and more. 9.30am-2.30pm. gastronomiaveg.it. Via Dante di ‘Pandoro’ covered with a butter icing and A great place for lunch or an aperitivo. Nanni, 116. T: 011 3828605. Off Map a generous sprinkling of icing sugar. www. farmaciadelcambio.it. Piazza Carignano, 2. Làit e Formagg pasticceriaghigo.it Located just steps from the centre, this small, Via Po, 52/b. T: 011 887017. T: 011 19211250. well-stocked shop sells Piedmontese and other An indulgent moment cheese specialties (Parmesan cheese, ricotta, aged PASTICCERIA VENIER cheeses, ‘tomini’, ‘caprini’, herb-flavoured cheeses Pasticceria Venier, located in the heart of and more) which can be sampled with tantalizing Lovers of good wine, paired with a platter of charcuterie or local specialties can indulge in a relaxing break the centre, is another go-to destination to sauces, high-quality charcuterie and other regional at Casa del Barolo, one of Turin’s most historic wine bars. By Giulia Minero specialties including grissini, lingue di suocera start (or end) your day on a sweet note. It’s (a type of biscuit which translates literally as famous for its ‘marocchino’ (coffee served mother-in-law’s tongues) and other typical sweet in a small glass cup, with a dark chocolate ocated just a stone’s throw from Piazza of the perfect bottle to pair with their meal or to treats, such as Piedmontese biscuits and hazelnut base, topped with foamed milk and a Bodoni, the Casa del Barolo has been a give as a special gift, can ask one of the expert cakes. From October to January, you’ll also find sprinkling of bitter cocoa powder), but also precious white truffles from Alba. Open Mon reference point in the city since 1947 for members of staff to help them choose the its ‘briosche’, including its custard-filled L 11am-2pm/4pm-8pm; Tues-Sat 8am-2pm/4pm- ‘torciglione’ with a hint of lemon, and its those wishing to enjoy a glass of wine, immersed best option. The first floor is used to host the 8pm. www.alformaggi.it. Via Madama Cristina, 18. Umbertino, a biscuit resembling a ‘bacio di in the calm of the Savoy capital. Spread over a venue’s daily aperitivo ritual, a go-to spot where T: 011 6699407. Off Map dama’ but with, a double layer of chocolate surface area of 400 square meters on two floors, connoisseurs and neophytes can sample several Pescheria Gallina and two amaretti instead this modern, welcoming ‘enoteca’, furnished of the finest labels of red, white and sparkling Now run by the fourth generation, this historic of shortcake. with wood and wrought iron décor elements, wines accompanied by platters of charcuterie fishmonger located in Porta Palazzo’s piazza del Via Monte di Pietà, 22. T: 011 541592. features a vast choice of high-quality wines. On and local cheeses or gourmet specialties mercato has been in business for over a century. the ground floor, in a light-filled space, customers including oysters, foie gras, salmon or other Its wonderfully fresh fish, mainly sourced from the TORTERIA BERLICABARBIS Ligurian Sea, guaranteeing that it was caught just can choose from among more than 1,000 labels gastronomic delicacies. In summer, customers In dialect, ‘Berlicabarbis’ means to ‘lick your 24 hours earlier, can be eaten on-site. Customers of the best vintages from Piedmont, Tuscany, can enjoy a delicious glass of wine while sitting can choose their order directly from the counter lips’. A particularly apt name for a pastry Sicily and the Veneto. These include Amarone, comfortably at one of the venue’s outdoor tables. or opt for its fixed-price menu, which include the shop that turns out approximately Barolo and Brunello, foreign wines, liqueurs, catch of the day, focaccia, a glass of house wine 20 different cakes a day, including spirits, whisky and cognac, plus a selection >> Via Andrea Doria, 7 and a bottle of water. Open Mon-Fri 07am-3pm; cheesecake, tarts filled with custard and of the best ‘bubblies’, including Franciacorta, T: 011 532038. Map F5 Sat 7.30am-5pm. www.pescheriagallina.com. Piazza fresh fruit, Renetta apple caked and ricotta della Repubblica, 14/b. T: 011 5213424. Barberino Designer Outlet Champagne and Prosecco. Those in search www.casadelbarolo.com Map F2

32 WHERE TURIN I MARCH 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 33 Michelin restaurants

DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN TRADITIONAL PIEDMONTESE CUISINE Cannavacciuolo Bistrot Michelin-starred restaurants Located just steps from the Gran Madre, this Turin- Seven starred restaurants, serving sublime dishes infused with the flavours, based bistro owned by multi-award winning Italian traditions and creativity of the region await visitors to Turin. (C. Z.) chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo, will not disappoint. The bistro offers guests a unique tasting experience featuring a combination of northern and southern CANNAVACCIUOLO flavours. Highlights include Fassona beef tartare, BISTROT TORINO codfish with tomatoes, eggplant parmigiana ravioli Established to offer diners an with a Provola cheese sauce and pigeon with elegant, unique experience, this blueberries and burrata (a fresh Italian buffalo milk restaurant highlights the essence cheese made from mozzarella and cream). Open Mon 7pm-11pm; Tues-Sat 12.30pm-3pm/7pm-11pm. of the famous Neapolitan chef €€€. www.cannavacciuolobistrot.it/torino. Antonino Cannavacciuolo’s culinary art, which sees traditional

Via U. Cosmo, 6. T: 011 8399893. Map I6 PHOTO © GIULIA CARLUCCI ingredients from his homeland Casa Amelie mixed and matched with those A stone’s throw from the Quadrilatero Romano, from Piedmont. The space has and only a few months after opening, this small, welcoming locale owned by Neapolitan chef been designed in keeping with Guido Perino, was classified as one of the city’s top the philosophy of Feng Shui. ten restaurants at the Fork Restaurants Awards, Via Umberto Cosmo, 6. sponsored by Identità Golose. The chef’s creative T: 011 8399893. yet simple cuisine features a combination of classic www.cannavacciuolobistrot.it Spazio 7 and exotic fare, premium-quality ingredients and Map I6 seasonal products that will delight your taste MAGORABIN buds. Open Mon 7.30pm-10.30pm; Tues-Sat CARIGNANO Just steps from the Mole, this starred 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€. At the restaurant located inside the Grand restaurant is owned by Marcello Trentini, www.ristorantecasaamelie.com. an eclectic Chef with a strong personality. Via Giulio, 4/b. T: 011 5211579. Map E2 Hotel Sitea, the culinary offerings are inspired by Piedmont’s renowned regional cuisine, You can dine à la carte, or enjoy the Cianci Piola Caffè re-imagined by Milanese Chef Fabrizio Tesse, restaurant’s tasting menuJust a little further A real institution in Turin, this bustling ‘piola’ offering a cuisine rooted in Piedmont tradition on, in the same street, the chef has opened (a typical, laid-back Piedmontese tavern) offers with a few forays into the nearby region of Magorabin Alimentari, a bottega/bistro with authentic regional dishes at unbeatable prices. an adjacent bakery where you can purchase With tables spilling out onto the square in warmer Liguria. His menu features traditional dishes or taste specialty products. months, this delightful locale in the heart of the re-imagined and re-adapted in keeping with Quadrilatero Romano, serves Fassona beef tartare, contemporary techniques and tastes. Corso San Maurizio, 61/b. ‘vitello tonnato’, ‘tajerin’ (a thin version of tagliatelle), Via Carlo Alberto, 35. T: 011 5170171. T: 011 8126808. ‘agnolotti’ and a vegetable-based Piedmontese www.ristorantecarignano.it Map F5 www.magorabin.com Map H4 antipasto which includes tomatoes, anchovies and peppers in a sauce, accompanied by a great CASA VICINA SPAZIO 7 selection of wines. Open 12.30pm-3.30pm/6.30pm- Located in the headquarters of Eataly, this Housed in Fondazione Sandretto Re 11pm. €€. Largo 4 Marzo, 9/b, T: 388 8767003. Map F3 Table magic restaurant is run by the Vicina family, who Rebaudengo, a centre for contemporary art, At Magorabin, in a New York design-style ambience, you can choose between a traditional or more creative menu, Consorzio for five generations have embraced the the dining room of Spazio 7 is an integral In the heart of the quaint Quadrilatero Romano, region’s tradition of hospitality, fine wines and part of the Foundation. sit at the chef’s table and allow yourself to be surprised by the choices of Marcello Trentini. By Chiara Zaccarelli Consorzio offers traditional cuisine, sometimes traditional cuisine, infused with prime quality The cuisine offered by Alessandro Mecca, a re-imagined with a twist, featuring ‘Made-in ingredients. The wine list is extensive and young Chef who arrived here after working Piedmont’ ingredients including Piedmontese well structured. Since Casa Vicina collaborates at several of Piedmont’s most historic beef, Cervere leeks, the hunchback thistles of Nizza agorabin is the starred restaurant or Pheasant Plin. You can dine à la carte, or enjoy >> Magorabin with Eataly, customers can choose from the restaurants, mirrors the foundation’s concept: Monferrato and freshly picked, garden-grown young, contemporary and open to innovation. of Marcello Trentini, an eclectic the restaurant’s tasting menu. There’s also a Corso San Maurizio, 61 vegetables. A harmonious combination that pays emporium’s fabulously stocked wine cellar. Via Nizza, 224 c/o Eataly Lingotto. The wine list features the classics of Piedmont chef with a strong personality who ‘social table’ for those who love food, wine and T: 011 812 6808. tribute to customers, chefs, breeders, farmers and M wine growers. Its cheeses, sourced from the best T: 011 19506840. www.casavicina.com Off Map and its neighboring regions in France. enjoys expressing his opinion with no regard good company. The table is designed to seat a www.magorabin.com local producers, with a few forays into the rest of Via Modane, 20. T: 011 3797626. for mainstream views. A chef who defends maximum of eight customers, who are invited Italy, France or Britain for a taste of Stilton, deserve DEL CAMBIO www.ristorantespazio7.it Off Map his freedom of choice by serving a 10,000km to share whatever happens to come out of the a separate mention. Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm- Established in 1757, it was among the dish when everyone around him is advocating kitchen. Magorabin also offers a chauffeured 2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; Sat 7.30pm-11pm. €€. favourite haunts of Camillo Benso, Count VINTAGE 1997 ‘Kilometer Zero’ cuisine. The dish in question limousine service that will collect you and take ristoranteconsorzio.it. Via Monte di Pietà, 23. of Cavour, Giacomo Casanova, Honoré de As its name suggests, it’s renowned T: 011 2767661. Map E3 features pigeon breast served with asparagus you back to your hotel or directly to the airport. Balzac, Giuseppe Verdi, Maria Callas and for its old-world atmosphere. from Chile and cherries from Madagascar If the restaurant’s booked out or you don’t have È Cucina the Agnelli family. This restaurant is a real The restaurant’s culinary offerings are also true to tradition. Rather than bold, creative because, in his view, if a product is high quality, time for a full-course dinner, but would like to This charming restaurant owned by theatrical Torinese institution. Chef Matteo Baronetto, of Florentine chef Cesare Maretti features brightly pairings, you’ll find authentic Piedmontese it doesn’t matter where it comes from. sample Trentini’s delights, remember that just a Piedmontese origin, remains true to regional lit windows overlooking the street, contemporary traditions, which he reinterprets with a specialties including truffles, cheeses and At his restaurant, just steps from the Mole little further on, in the same street, the chef has décor and an open-plan kitchen, now a popular creative twist. A tour of the cellar, whose 17th meats. No-frills expertise, practiced for Antonelliana, Trentini demonstrates his opened Magorabin Alimentari, a bottega/bistro contemporary concept in Northern Italy. The chef’s century aisles house 2,200 labels, is also worth the past twenty years with traditional creativity with a menu featuring dishes like with an adjacent bakery where, throughout the underlying philosophy is based on the search Piedmontese professionalism. for premium-quality ingredients with a particular a visit. Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 546690. Prawns, Brains and Datterini tomatoes or Sea day, you can purchase specialty products or stop www.vintage1997.com Map E4 focus on organic fruit and vegetables (all dishes www.delcambio.it Map F4 bass, artichokes and bagna caoda, in addition to and savour their bread, cocktails and a few dishes are served with a side, at no additional charge) and Spaghetti, bread, butter and anchovies (see photo) prepared by Magorabin’s chefs. conviviality. In the evening, guests can choose from

34 WHERE TURIN I MARCH 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 35 DINING DINING

a meat, fish or vegetarian menu, accompanied by In addition to classic regional recipes, including Oriental Daily by Kiki homemade bread and focacce. Open Mon-Sun rabbit tuna, beef tartare and classic starters, it also In addition to classic sushi, sashimi and tempura, 12.30pm-3am/8pm-11pm; Sun 12 noon-3pm. €€. serves a variety of fish dishes. Its wine list features a this fusion restaurant also serves spicy meat and fish cesaremarretti.com. Via Bertola, 27/a. T: 011 5629038. great selection of Piedmont labels including Arneis, curries, ramen, steaming noodles, Pad Thai, steamed Map E3 Nebbiolo and Barbera. It’s advisable to book ahead. ravioli, tartare, tataki and other creatives dishes. Piedmont food glossary Open daily 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€. Filiberti-Vini e Fornelli Indulge your sweet tooth with one of the venue’s scannabue.it. Largo Saluzzo, 25/h. T: 011 6696693. original desserts including Azuki bean ice cream and A small bistro in the Quadrilatero Romano, infused Map E7 sweet Chawanmush, an egg custard dish filled with From a gastronomic viewpoint, the region of Piedmont boasts some of Italy’s with a decidedly French atmosphere. The menu cherries and wild berries. Excellent value for money. is divided into small tapas-style antipasti (referred Stefano Fanti al Circolo dei Lettori finest, most diverse traditional foods. It is therefore no surprise that the world- Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sat to here as ‘minuterie’) including Bao buns topped This unique restaurant is located at the Circolo dei famous ‘Slow Food’ association, an international, non-profit organization 7pm-10.30pm. €€. www.orientaldaily.it. Via Cesana, with brisket and barbecue sauce, codfish cheek Lettori, in the city’s 17th century Palazzo Graneri committed to giving food back its proper value, was born here. It is also here 72. T: 011 4470067. Off Map with chard and a meat consommé. Mains include della Roccia. Formerly a private members club, the that the Italian University of Gastronomic Sciences, the first, and possibly only, pastrami or ‘plin’ re-interpreted in a Mediterranean Circolo dei Lettori was a meeting place for Turin’s ‘university of taste’ in the world, was established. The amazing raw materials version with Provola cheese, eggplant and tomatoes, intellectuals, writers, poets and artists, seen in the PIZZA offered by the Piedmontese region include meat, cheese, wine and truffles, accompanied by an extensive wine list, including rows of artist portraits that line the restaurant’s walls. A Casa di Pulcinella several natural varieties. Open Mon 7pm-11pm; Tues- Its traditional culinary offering is reinterpreted with and are the basic ingredients used to create deliciously rich, tasty recipes. An informal locale which, as its name suggests, Thurs 12 noon-2.30pm/7pm-11pm; Fri- Sat 12noon- a contemporary twist by chef Stefano Fantini. For serves a fabulous Neapolitan pizza, accompanied by We’ve compiled a list of several Made in Piedmont dishes that are absolute Piedmontese Mixed Fry 2.30pm/7pm-midnight. €€. www.filibertiviniefornelli. an overview of regional specialties, make sure to try a wide selection of craft and other beers. Thanks to must-tastes. By Chiara Zaccarelli it. Piazza Emanuele Filiberto, 6/a. T: 011 19173730. its tasting menu and, if you’re feeling bold, opt for a natural, slow-leavening process, the pizza dough Map E2 the ‘Finanziera’. Open 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm- is light, tasty and easy to digest. Ingredients include 10.30pm. €€€. www.circololettori.it/il-ristorante. the classics for which Neapolitan pizza is renowned BAGNA CAUDA AGNOLOTTI DEL PLIN Le Vitel Etonné Via Bogino, 9. T: 011 4326828. Map G4 The standout at this restaurant located in the heart but also those of traditional Italian regional cuisine, This typical winter specialty consists of a These small filled ‘pouches’ are made with a Vitello Tonnato ranging from a Margherita topped with Bufala of the centre is ‘vitello tonnato’, one of the great sauce made from garlic, extra virgin olive thin sheet of dough, stuffed with a filling of classics of Piedmont cuisine, an absolute must-try at ETHNIC CUISINE Campana mozzarella to a version with Moncalieri oil and anchovies, to which butter, milk braised meat (usually a mixture of beef, veal its namesake restaurant. Other specialties include Hafa Storie sausage.Open Tues-Sat 12pm-3pm/6.30pm- 10.30pm. €€. www.acasadipulcinella.it. Corso and chopped nuts can also be added. or pork) and Swiss chard, dressed with the ‘tajerin’, a fresh pasta prepared according to a A Piedmont Moroccan restaurant. In Turin, this is Rosselli, 82. T: 011 595457. Off Map traditional recipe with 36 egg yolks per kilo of flour, fairly common because the city’s second largest Bagna Cauda is served in a terracotta pan juices of the braised meat, or butter and

served with an array of seasonal sauces, ‘tagliatelle’ foreign community is the Moroccan community, Bakery Restaurant & Pizza pot and used as a dip for raw or cooked sage. The name ‘plin’ derives from the regional with Bra sausage and ‘agnolotti al plin’. The locale’s and the restaurant is located in Porta Palazzo, the Tucked away in a peaceful area of the city, not seasonal vegetables. If, on the one hand, dialect for ‘pinch’ because to form each 19th century cellar, featuring barrel vaults and open city’s multi-ethnic district par excellence. While the far from the Porta Nuova station, this pizzeria/ brick walls, hosts more than 300 labels. Open Tues- it encourages conviviality, on the other, agnolotto you pinch the two sheets Piedmontese offerings are created by Christian restaurants boasts a wood-fired oven that turns out Sun 10.30am-midnight. €€€. www.leviteletonne.com. especially if you’ve overdone the garlic, of pasta together. Milone, a young, talented starred chef hailing from a slow-rising, Neapolitan-style pizza, featuring a soft, Via San Francesco da Paola, 4. T: 011 8124621. Trattoria Zappatori in Pinerolo, the Moroccan dishes crunchy dough and high-quality ingredients. Diners you might find people avoiding you Map G4 are prepared by Aicha the cook. Between a seven- can choose from among a variety of classic toppings, because you reek of it! PIEDMONTESE GRAN BOLLITO MISTO Plin & Tajarin vegetable couscous and a braise with polenta, this with a few regional references including sausage and This elaborate dish of mixed boiled meats restaurant lays the foundations for a harmonious, This is small eatery resembling an artist’s studio ‘friarelli’ (broccoli rabe), or gorgonzola, pears and PIEDMONTESE MIXED FRY is made from seven cuts of Piedmontese productive cultural exchange. Open Tues-Fri rather than a restaurant. The kitchen turns out small walnuts. Its well-stocked cellar boasts a number of Bagna Cauda

11am-3pm/5pm-12.30am; Sat 10am-12.30am; Sun This uniquely rich local specialty of veal, including the thigh muscle, shoulder BOSCHERINO PHOTO © GIOVANNI SHUTTERSTOCK.COM masterpieces like ‘plin’ and ‘tajerin’, the staples of highly select labels from Italy’s best wine producers. 11.30am-4.30pm. €€. hafastorie.it. Galleria Umberto Piedmont consists of a combination and breast, and seven ‘improvers’, tongue, Piedmont’s culinary tradition, which are available Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; I, 10/13. T: 011 19486765. Map F2 with numerous fillings and sauces, including vegan Sat 7.30pm-11pm. €€. www.bakerytorino.it. of fried liver, lungs, brain, sweetbreads, musetto (a pork sausage made in part from A Bain Marie, or hot water bath, is a slow, and vegetarian options. Before, after or as an Kay Essenza Peruviana & Piscobar Via Avigliana, 47/a. T: 011 4337074. liver veins, a slice of veal, sausage, sweet a pig’s snout) and a game hen, cooked Map B3 accompaniment, diners can order meat from select Located in the Crocetta district, this top-level semolina, amaretti biscuits and apples, for several hours in boiling water. It is natural culinary technique that is used to Piedmont producers, delicious ‘focaccia’ made Peruvian restaurant is helmed by a team of young, Crudo fa la Pizza! accompanied by pan-fried carrots or mixed accompanied by seven tasty sauces, and cook delicate foods, over a low temperature, with stone-ground flour and traditional desserts, knowledgeable staff. The menu embraces the Crudo is an award-winning food company, boasting using the steam the Bain Marie creates. It including amaretto ice cream. Open Mon-Sat vegetables. Not a dish for the a side of vegetables. One of the favourite traditional flavours of every region in Peru, from its two osterie and a bistro in the city, renowned for preserves the softness of the dessert and 12.45pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 7.45pm-10.30pm. €€€. faint-hearted. dishes of Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, coast to its mountains, right up to the Amazonian their fresh high-quality ingredients, sourced from www.plinetajarin.it. Via G. Casalis, 59. T: 011 3828128. facilitates the formation forests, interpreted with a gourmet twist. Signature only the finest producers. It has now taken on the and Vittorio Emanuele, Piedmont’s ‘bollito Map B3 dishes include Fassona beef tartare with fried challenge of making one of Italy’s best-loved dishes. misto’ even has its own brotherhood. of a delicious crust on its surface. Porto di Savona marrow bone and spicy mayonnaise, marinated Nineteen different versions of pizza take diners on a scallops and tapioca, ceviches and even a South One of the city’s oldest restaurants, Porto di Savona culinary journey that encompasses the whole of the VITELLO TONNATO American interpretation of Piedmont’s classic peninsula, from Favignana with Siccagno tomatoes, opened in 1863 when Turin was the capital of Italy. This classic ‘antipasto’ of Piedmont cuisine The restaurant is on the city’s beautiful Piazza ‘bagnetto verde’ (green sauce), accompanied by a anchovy fillets, Mediterranean tuna fillets, capers and is made from poaching the ‘girello’ cut of Vittorio, and the warm interior is laid out like a 19th- carefully selected choice of Piedmont wines. Open Sicilian olive oil to Aosta, with mozzarella, Fontina century tavern, with Liberty-style decor, wooden Tues-Sat 12 noon-2.45pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sun 12 d’Aosta Dop and hand-sliced artisanal ham. Open ‘Fassona’ veal (a prized Piemontese breed boiserie, mirrors, 1940s furnishing accessories noon-2.45pm. €€. kayessenzaperuvianapiscobar. daily 12 noon-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€. pizza.crudotorino. of veal) in a stock with aromatic herbs and business.site. Via E. Torricelli, 59. T: 011 5096002. and walls decorated with period paintings and com. Via Palazzo di Città, 7/d. T: 340 2494060. white wine, sliced thinly and served cold with Map F2 Map F3 photographs. Its menu – don’t be misled by its name a traditional sauce made from tuna fish, egg – features classic Piedmont cuisine including ‘vitello Oh Crispa! Gusto Madre tonnato’, ‘agnolotti’, homemade pasta, braised meat, yolks, capers, extra virgin olive oil, white wine, If you’re looking for Chinese street food that’s as Pizza is experiencing a renaissance. From a dish of ‘fritto misto’, ‘bolliti’ (boiled meats), ‘Finanziera’ (a lemon juice, salt and pepper. good as any you’ll find in Shanghai, then you’ve the people to a gourmet specialty, interpreted with hearty dish of veal offal and cockscomb cooked come to the right place. The kitchen is headed by a numerous dough varieties, flours and ingredients. with Marsala wine, vinegar and herbs) and, in winter Chinese/Asti couple who prepare Chinese crepes If you’re feeling overwhelmed by all these options, BONET ‘bagna cauda’. Open daily 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm- stuffed with meat, Tofu or vegetables, the by now there are places, like Gusto Madre, that will remove Bonet, pronounced bunet, is a soft, rich, midnight. foodandcompany.com. €€€. ubiquitous Baos, steamed buns filled with pork any doubt. Ingredients bestowed by Mother Nature, Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 2. T: 011 8173500. deliciously old-fashioned dessert that can or crab, artisanal ravioli in broth, and specials that processed to a minimum and combined with the Map H5 be eaten with a spoon. Bonet is made from vary from day to day. All the dishes featured on creativity and skill inherent in time-honoured dough- Scannabue the menu are made from carefully selected, strictly making techniques, are the reasons for the success sugar, eggs, milk, cocoa, rum and dry amaretti Located in the trendy San Salvario district, Piedmontese ingredients. Open Tues 6.30pm-11pm; of this healthy, easy-to-digest, multi-award winning biscuits. An unusual feature of this recipe is Wed-Sat 12.30pm-3pm/6.30pm-11pm; Sun pizza. Open from Wednesday to Monday. €€. www. Scannabue is extremely popular thanks to its warm, PHOTO © TENNIS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Bagna Cauda Bonet that it’s baked in a Bain Marie in the oven. CAZZANTI PHOTO © VALENTINO SHUTTERSTOCK.COM laid back atmosphere and its traditional, affordable 12.30pm-3pm/6.30pm-10.30pm. Via Belfiore, 16bis/d. gustomadre.it. Via G. Mazzini, 31/A T: 011 18894434. cuisine, especially among the city’s young, hip crowd. €. T: 339 6112705. Off Map Map G6

36 WHERE TURIN I MARCH 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 37 ENTERTAINMENT FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN La Drogheria AFTER DINNER Tucked away under the arcades of piazza Vittoria, THEATRES Hiroshima Mon Amour La Drogheria is a stylish cocktail bar with an Teatro Carignano Founded in the Eighties, Hiroshima Mon Amour is a international feel. The atmosphere is just right and One of the most important theatres in Turin, it was go-to events space for lovers of music, theatre and created with a mixture of vintage furnishings and the place where the king went to watch plays (opera culture. Located near the Lingotto railway station, contemporary works of art. In addition to cocktails, was only performed at the Teatro Regio). Dating over the years it has become a reference point for it offers a wide choice of wines and liqueurs, back to 1700, it is run by the prestigious Teatro events, music festivals, DJ sets, concerts featuring accompanied by a fabulous selection of finger food, Stabile di Torino and located in the city’s beautiful focacce and hot, bite-sized pizzas. Open Mon- © MICHELE D’OTTAVIO Italian and international artists, exhibitions and piazza Carignano, opposite Palazzo Carignano. clubbing. www.hiroshimamonamour.org. Thurs 5pm-to 2am; Fri 5pm-3am; Sat 10am-3am; Teatro Carignano has a reputation for producing Via Bossoli, 83. T: 011 3176636. Sun 10am-2am. www.la-drogheria.it. Piazza Vittorio theatre of the highest standards and presents an Off Map Veneto, 18/d. T: 011 8122414. unrivalled range of classics, new plays and family Map H5 entertainment. Open Tues-Sat 1pm-7pm. Jazz Club Torino Lanificio San Salvatore www.teatrostabiletorino.it. Piazza Carignano, 6. Located just steps from Piazza San Carlo, the Jazz T: 011 5169555. Map F4 Club is justifiably one of Turin’s best venues for Located in the trendy, vibrant San Salvario district, Italian jazz. A meeting place for lovers of the genre, this former wool mill serves high-quality cocktails Teatro Nuovo its offers a diverse program of concerts with an accompanied by a rich buffet of large, tantalizing Teatro Nuovo is Turin’s temple of dance. In addition emphasis on contemporary trends and up-and- dishes that are also suitable for vegetarians. to the Teatro Nuovo Foundation, it is home to coming artists. The venue also hosts a restaurant Highlights include an interesting wine list, including the Teatro Nuovo Company, the Regional Dance and lounge bar where guests can relax and enjoy a numerous organic labels, plus a good selection of Academy, the Teatro Nuovo School of Fine and meal or a drink while listening to the music. Open classic cocktails. The venue also organizes themed Performing Arts, Choral Music and Musical Theatre Wed-Thurs 8.30pm-midnight; Fri 8.30pm-2am; evenings and live concerts. Open: Mon-Thurs 6pm- and the Valentino Cinema. Though mainly used to Sat 8.30pm-3am; Sun: see calendar. www.jazzclub. 2am; Fri-Sat 6pm-3am; Sun 11am-2am. stage musicals, it also hosts concerts, ballets and torino.it. Via S. Francesco da Paola corner of via Via Sant’Anselmo, 30. T: 011 0867568. operettas. Open daily. www.teatronuovo.torino.it. Giolitti. T: 011 882939. Map F7 Corso M. d’Azeglio, 17. T: 011 6500211. Off Map Map G5 Les Arcades This informal locale in the Porta Nuova district, made headlines a few years ago due to Tamango, a hallucinogenic cocktail, that everyone, including the BBC, talked about. Based on a secret recipe and prepared with a mix of African plants and roots, Tamango gets its red colour from roselle leaves, a species of hibiscus, which apparently prompts a sense of euphoria and a desire to dance. Open Tues-Sat 9.30pm-4am. Via Fratelli Calandra, 10. T: 339 852806. Map G6 Piano35 Italy’s highest panoramic lounge bar is housed in the skyscraper designed by Renzo Piano to host the offices of the Intesa Sanpaolo bank. Here you can taste amazing cocktails created by multi-starred bar tender Mirko Turconi accompanied by an assortment of delectable finger food. The venue A vertical journey amidst the ‘stars’ offers breathtaking views over a winter garden and the city of Turin. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight. Featuring a spectacular layout, this unique ‘vertical museum’, housed in the city’s landmark www.grattacielointesasanpaolo.com. Corso Mole Antonelliana, is dedicated to the history of cinema. By Elena Peverata Inghilterra, 3. T: 0114387837. Map B4 APERITIVI © ANDREA GUERMANI ne of the most important film ‘Rampa’ which, like a movie, unfolds to reveal >> Museo Nazionale del Cinema Ballantine’s museums in the world, the Museo the dome, offering a breathtaking view over www.museocinema.it Established in 1971, this was the first American The world of coffee Nazionale del Cinema is not only the museum from above. The ‘Macchina del c/o Mole Antonelliana, via Montebello, 20. Bar ever opened in Italy. A reference point in the “A cup of coffee always marks the beginning of something”. In addition to summarizing O centre of the city for aperitivi, it offers a great renowned for its rich collection of exhibits, but Cinema’ (+15) is dedicated to the film industry, T: 011 8138560/138561. the power of this black, aromatic, magical drink, this idea by Francesca, Antonella and selection of wines and cocktails but also fresh fruity also for its unique location in the beautiful Mole while the ‘Galleria dei Manifesti’ is located non-alcoholic drinks for teetotalers. Also a popular Manuela Lavazza – fourth generation heirs of the Lavazza brand, a symbol of Italian Antonelliana, one of the city’s most impressive on level +18. A major highlight of the visit is lunchtime spot. Open Mon-Sat 8am-noon; Sun coffee, also inspired the project for an innovative museum. Casa Lavazza is a voyage historic landmarks. Featuring a unique, vertical the building’s panoramic elevator (currently 5pm-10pm. Corso G. Matteotti, 25. T: 011 5628849. through five different themed galleries; the Factory teaches visitors everything about layout, it spirals upwards, creating a spectacular closed for maintenance from 17 September to Map D5 ADVERTORIALcoffee production; the Piazza celebrates the Italian ‘rite of coffee’ with its symbols and display of its extraordinary collections through 21 October) which takes visitors on a ride, up Beena clichés, in a typical, 1960s-style Italian ‘piazza’; the Atelier, reminiscent of a photographic an evocative, interactive itinerary. Organized 85 metres, to the ‘Tempietto’, an observation This venue offers a delectable Indian-style studio, features 60 years of the brand’s creative collaborations with images and apericena (more than an aperitivo and less than a by levels, not floors, in addition to a vast film deck offering a breathtaking view over the city installations and, finally, the Universe immerses visitors in a 360-degree multimedia dinner). Instead of a buffet, the menu includes a library containing more than 7,000 titles, the and its surrounding Alpine range. The braver cocktail and seven appetizers, served at your table screening that can be personalized with the use of a ‘smart cup’. It goes without saying © MICHELE D’OTTAVIO museum’s rich heritage includes collections of heart can also access the panoramic deck and cooked while you wait in a traditional Tandoori that no visit to the Lavazza kingdom would be complete without sampling an energizing dedicated to the archaeology of cinema (level on foot from the ground floor to discover the oven. A full immersion into the aromas and flavours cup of coffee. At the end of the tour, visitors will be treated to a ‘Coffee Experience’ + 5 metres), the ‘Aula del Tempio’ (+10), the focal places hidden inside the cavity of the dome. of India.Open Tues-Sun 6pm-2am. www.beena.it. Via featuring a special recipe of coffee design created by the Lavazza Training Center. Lombroso, 22. T: 349 7078645. Map F7 heart of the museum, with areas dedicated to Open Mon, Wed to Sun 9am-8pm (Sat until Museo Lavazza. Via Bologna, 32A. museo.lavazza.com the great genres of cinematic history, and the 11pm), closed on Tues.

38 WHERE TURIN I MARCH 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 39 MUSEUMS & FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS Allianz Juventus Stadium to the above, this must-visit museum offers a shopping mall, where you can admire the spiral Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, the fabulous program of major exhibitions by Italian ramp that leads to the autodrome (www.8gallery. it) and the ‘Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli’, Allianz Stadium is the sixth largest stadium in Italy and international artists. The Art Library and the a small art gallery packed with masterpieces. On and the largest in Piedmont. Better known as the Photographic Archives of Turin’s Civic Museums are exiting the Pinacoteca you can visit the rooftop test Juventus Stadium, it is owned by the Juventus headquartered at GAM. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. track and admire the ‘Bolla’, the bubble-shaped, Football Club whose home matches have been Closed on Monday. Museum full ticket price: €10. blue glass meeting room. The old Carpano plants, played here since 2011, the year when the facility www.gamtorino.it. Via Magenta, 31. T: 011 4429518. Map C5 lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now was opened. One of the most avant-garde, eco- occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. (www.eataly. compatible facilities in the world, in addition to J-Museum (Juventus Museum) net). Lingotto: Via Nizza, 294. being one of the two architectural symbols of Located in the Allianz Stadium complex, in the Off Map modern-day Turin, the Stadium is one of the city’s northwestern area of Turin, the J-Museum is Mole Antonelliana major hubs of tourist attraction. The complex dedicated to the history and triumphs of the The Mole has been an architectural landmark of the also houses Area 12, a shopping mall featuring a Juventus Football Club. Opened in 2012, it is one city since 1889. Named after its creator, architect hypermarket, shops and several restaurants. The of the world’s best and most innovative sports Alessandro Antonelli, the Mole was purchased by J-Museum, the first official football museum of the museums. State-of the-art technology, memorabilia the Municipality of Turin and made into a monument ‘bianconera’ team is hosted inside the east area. and an adrenalin-filled atmosphere offer fans a of national unity. At the time of its construction it www.juventus.com/it/stadium-e-museum. Corso unique, memorable experience. By purchasing a was the highest brick building in Europe, standing Gaetano Scirea, 50. T: 899 999897. combined Museum and Stadium Tour ticket you can at a height of 167 metres. Built according to eclectic Off Map also visit several areas of the Allianz Stadium that 19th century architectural techniques, the Mole are generally off-limits to the public. Open from 16 Basilica di Superga rises through layers of windows and pseudo- September to 15 March, Mon-Fri 10.30am-6pm; Sat- Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II as a Greek columns to a huge ribbed cupola and a Sun and Holydays 10.30am-7.30pm. Closed on 25 thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s needlelike spire. On the top, a twelve-pointed December and every Tuesday (unless matchday). deliverance from the French siege of 1706, star is silhouetted against the Turinese skyline. The ticket office closes one hours before the the Basilica is one of the many masterpieces Inside, a panoramic, glass elevator takes visitors museum. Matchday opening hours: see official site. by architect Filippo Juvarra, who designed it on a ride through the roof of the museum’s vast Full ticket price: €15. www.juventus.com/it/stadium- according to the style of the era with a colonnaded atrium and up 85 metres inside the tower to the e-museum. Via Druento 153. T: 011 4530486. portico, cloisters (the building still houses a friars’ 360-degree observation platform at the top of Off Map convent) and a dome. Situated on one of the the cupola. The view of Turin and its surrounding hills surrounding Turin and framed by the Alpine Lingotto Alpine range is absolutely spectacular. Visitors mountain range, the Basilica dominates the city This complex of cream coloured concrete and glass can also access the panoramic deck on foot by and offers visitors a breathtaking view that is even buildings, built in 1916, based on a project by Matté climbing the 573 steps located inside the cavity of more stunning when viewed from the top of the Trucco to house the FIAT factory (now FCA), still the cupola (by reservation from Monday to Friday, dome (131 steps). After visiting the tombs of the symbolizes the wealth of the city. Reconverted by and without reservation on Saturdays, Sundays and Savoy family, the Popes’ chamber and the royal Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it now hosts the pavilions public holidays). Since 2000, the Mole Antonelliana apartments, you can walk around the building to of Lingotto Fiere, the headquarters of major events has hosted the National Museum of Cinema. Via see the memorial that pays tribute to the ‘Grande including Automotoretrò (www.automotoretro. Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138563. Torino’. In 1949, a plane carrying the entire Turin it) and the International Book Fair; the ‘8 Gallery’ Map H4 football team on their return from an away match crashed into the side of the church, killing all on board. Although the Basilica can be reached by car © BRUNO - ACCOMASSO or public transport, one of the most picturesque ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, an original 1934 tram which rattles the 3km up the hillside. Strada Basilica di Superga, 73. T: 011 8997456. Tramway: Piazza Modena, 6. Off Map A glimpse into the history Castello di Rivoli - Museo d’Arte Contemporanea March in Turin marks the 158th anniversary of the Unification of Italy. What better opportunity to visit Palazzo The headquarters of Turin’s Museum of Carignano, the headquarters of the National Museum of the Italian Risorgimento? By Giulia Minero Contemporary Art since 1984, the Castello di Rivoli, a masterpiece of Baroque art designed by Filippo Juvarra in 1718, is located outside the alazzo Carignano, built between 1679 and The exhibition space, re-opened to the public >> Museo Nazionale del Risorgimento Italiano city, at the entrance to Val di Susa. The museum offers a rich collection of works documenting the 1684 by Guarino Guarini at the request in 2011, includes two original parliamentary c/o Palazzo Carignano latest artistic trends. Highlights include works by Pof Prince Emanuele Filiberto the Mute, chambers: the Chamber of the Subalpine Piazza Carlo Alberto, 8. Map F4 Sol Lewitt, Richard Long, Michelangelo Pistoletto, is an impressive Baroque building, featuring a Parliament (see photo), and the majestic salon Info and reservations T: 011 5623719 Transavanguardia, Maurizio Cattelan, Vanessa monumental, curvilinear terracotta façade designed to host the Chamber of the Parliament www.museorisorgimentotorino.it Beecroft, as well as new generation artists. Open Tues-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. Closed on that anticipates the layout of its interior of the Kingdom of Italy, featuring vaults frescoed Monday, 1 January, 1 May, 24-25 and 31 December. spaces. The palace houses the base of a central by Francesco Gonin. Inside the museum, the Full ticket price: €8.50. www.castellodirivoli.org. elliptical tower in the ‘Salone delle Feste’, period of the Risorgimento is narrated from a Piazza Mafalda di Savoia, Rivoli. T: 011 9565280. an ornate room decorated with stuccoes European viewpoint. In addition to a display of Off Map and frescoes, which was transformed into a 2,579 original artifacts, the museum’s 30 plus GAM - Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna e parliamentary chamber where the Subalpine rooms, decorated in different colours according Contemporanea © DANIELE BOTTALLO government met during the process of Italian to their specific themes, have been enhanced GAM boasts an extraordinary collection of Unification in 1848. The interior of the palace, with films created with images from more than 45,000 works by renowned 19th and 20th-century Italian and European artists, including Balla, CAPPELLA DELLA SACRA SINDONE headquarters of the National Museum of the 194 European museums, which can be viewed Severini Boccioni, De Chirico, Dix, Ernst and Klee. A Baroque marvel has been restored to its original splendour. Like a phoenix, the Chapel of Italian Risorgimento since 1938, has numerous on large screens. Visitors can choose from Highlights include paintings, sculptures, drawings, the Holy Shroud has finally risen from the ashes of the fire that destroyed it twenty years ago. historical treasures, including a highly specific among three different itineraries: short, standard installations, videos and photos, plus one of the www.museireali.beniculturali.it library and archives. and in-depth, as well as guided tours. most important collections of video art. In addition

40 WHERE TURIN I MARCH 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 41 MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS | SIGHTSEEING

Musei Reali and famous advertising campaigns and to explore residenzereali.it). The park sometimes hosts events In 2014, in-depth restorations allowed all the everything related to Lavazza’s history and coffee such as ‘Terra Madre-Salone del Gusto’ (Mother EDITOR’S buildings in the complex, the Royal Palace, the production. In order to access the museum’s Earth Tasting Festival www.salonedelgusto.com or Officina della Scrittura by Livia Fioravanti TIP Musei Reali Armoury, the Royal Library, the Archaeological numerous interactive sections, visitors are provided the ‘Salone dell’Automobile’ (Turin Car Show) www. Museum, the Savoy Gallery, Palazzo Chiablese A Savoy residence until 1865, Turin’s Royal with a Lavazza espresso cup at the entrance. This parcovalentino.com. Park: Corso Massimo D’Azeglio and, lastly, the Royal Gardens to be connected. Museums are one of the largest and most iconic object is designed to activate the installations / Valentino Castle: Viale Mattioli, 39 / Town and Visitors are now able enjoy a unique museum tour, diverse museum complexes in Europe. and unlock multimedia content across the museum. Medieval Castle: Viale Virgilio, 107 / Botanical comprising a 3km route spread over 30,000 sq.m. of The sheer size of the complex and collections Open Wed-Sun 10am-6pm (last admission 5.30pm). Gardens: Viale Mattioli, 25. exhibition space and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. housed therein easily rival those of other Closed on 15 August. Full ticket price: 10 €. museo. Map G7 The origins of the Royal Museums date back to 1563, major European royal residences. A unique lavazza.com. Via Bologna, 32A. T: 011 2179621. when Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved Piazza San Carlo tour devoted to history, art and nature, Map H1 the capital from Chambéry to Turin. This marked Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, piazza comprising a 3km route of exhibition spaces the beginning of a major urban transformation and Museo Nazionale del Cinema San Carlo was commissioned by Marie Christine and seven hectares of gardens. the enrichment of the dynastic collections, which The National Museum of Cinema, housed in the of France in true Parisian style. It is a rectangle of now include artifacts dating from the prehistoric Mole Antonelliana, is one of the world’s most perfect proportions with an equestrian statue – ARMERIA REALE - More than 5,000 era to the present time. Between the 17th and 18th important film museums. Featuring a unique, the so-called ‘Caval’d Brons’ - of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre and on its southern objects dating from the Prehistoric era to the centuries, the appearance of the residence, with the vertical layout, this ‘temple of cinema’ spirals upwards through several exhibition levels, creating side, facing the Porta Nuova Station, a twin pair of 20th century, one of whose most important imposing Royal Palace at its centre, was expanded a spectacular display of its extraordinary collections Baroque churches, San Carlo and Santa Christina. sections comprises an impressive collection and changed, thanks to the work of several of the era’s most illustrious architects. A Savoy Residence through an evocative, interactive itinerary. In The former was built in 1639 based on a project by of 16th century arms and amour. until 1865, the Royal Museums are now owned by the addition to a vast film library containing more than architect Amedeo di Castellamonte, while building BIBLIOTECA REALE – One of the city’s Italian government. On-site amenities include a food 7,000 titles, the museum offers collections dedicated on the latter began in 1619 (its façade was designed most important cultural institutions, court in the former Regia Frutteria. to the archaeology of cinema, the ‘Aula del Tempio’ by Juvarra and dates back to 1715). Piazza San Carlo it houses over 200,000 books, antique www.museireali.beniculturali.it. Piazzetta Reale, 1. (Temple Room), the focal heart of the museum, with is flanked by seemingly endless elegant porticoes maps, engravings and drawings, including Map F3 areas dedicated to the great genres of cinematic housing big-name fashion boutiques. The square is Leonardo da Vinci’s famous ‘Self Portrait’. history. Don’t miss the ‘Rampa’ (the Ramp) which, located in the middle of the partly pedestrianized Museo della Sindone arterial road of via Roma which, with its arcaded CAPPELLA DELLA SINDONE – Recently like a movie, unfolds to reveal the dome, offering a Housed in the crypt of the church of SS. Sudario, this breathtaking view over the museum from above, the shops and cafés, connects the Station of Porta re-opened after a long and complex fascinating museum documents one of the most ‘Macchina del Cinema’ (the Movie Machine), an area Nuova to piazza Castello. Piazza San Carlo is home restoration, until the 1990s, the chapel, a studied objects in human history: the Sindone, the dedicated to the film industry and the ‘Galleria dei to several of the city’s best-known cafés and pastry Baroque masterpiece, housed the Sindone, famous ‘Holy Shroud’ a linen cloth which according Manifesti’ (the Poster Gallery). Open 9am-8pm, Sat shops. Make sure to try the blends on offer at The Officina della Scrittura, located in a bookshop and a restaurant-cafeteria, now preserved in the Cathedral of Turin. to tradition Christ was wrapped in when deposed 9am-11pm. Closed on Tues Caffè San Carlo, the pastries of Caffè Torino or the GALLERIA SABAUDA - Spread over from the cross. The museum provides visitors with www.museocinema.it. Mole Antonelliana. Via chocolates and candies of Stratta. the historic ‘pen district’, is the first which is only open for lunch and offers four levels of exhibition space, the gallery information about its provenance and history (from Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138560-011 8138561. Map F4 museum in Europe dedicated to the a small selection of tantalizing dishes at showcases approximately 500 masterpieces the second half of the 5th century when it became Map H4 art of writing. Founded in 2016 at affordable prices. the property of the House of Savoy), as well as Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli by Italian, Dutch, Flemish and European the Aurora Factory, the oldest Italian Self-guided tours of the Officina della the various theories and mysteries surrounding it. OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni Archistar Renzo Piano designed what he referred to artists displayed in chronological order from Other highlights include the objects and paintings From a former rail repair workshop to a new hub as a ‘treasure trove’, a captivating space located on manufacturers of fountain pens, the Scrittura take approximately one hour, the 14th to 20th centuries. displayed during Public Ostensions (cyclical of contemporary culture and innovation. Opened the rooftop of Turin’s Lingotto building, formerly the museum offers visitors a tour featuring while guided factory tours last for 45 headquarters of the first Fiat (now FCA) automotive GIARDINI REALI - Extending over showings of the Shroud). Open daily 9am-Noon, in 2017, following a major renovation, this majestic, a blend of tradition and technology. minutes. Tours of the museum and factory approximately seven hectares of land, 3pm-7pm. Full ticket price: €6. www.sindone.it/ late 19th century industrial complex in the heart of factory. This intimate gallery hosts a permanent Interactive screens and avant-garde are available in English for foreign visitors. and located in the centre of the city, these museo. Chiesa del SS. Sudario, via San Domenico, Turin has become a meeting place for contemporary exhibition showcasing the personal collection writing instruments are interspersed beautiful gardens testify to the city’s history 28. T: 011 4365832. Map E2 culture. The venue hosts a rich program of of late Fiat head Giovanni Agnelli and his wife Marella. Here you can admire a unique collection and former opulent splendour. Due to exhibitions, performances, concerts – both classical with typewriters and fountain pens that www.officinadellascrittura.it Museo Egizio and electronic – as well as events dedicated to of seven paintings by Matisse, a 1913 painting by ongoing renovations, today only a portion of tell the story of Turin’s important role Strada da Bertolla all’Abbadia di Stura, Turin’s Egyptian Museum is the oldest Egyptian theatre, dance and the performing arts. Other Balla dedicated to the theme of speed, as well as in the information revolution. 200 (20 minutes from the city centre). the garden are open for public viewing. museum in the world and the second in terms of initiatives include workshops, start-ups and masterpieces by Severini, Modigliani and Tiepolo. MUSEO DI ANTICHITÀ - The most the value and quality of its treasures outside of presentations. Open Thurs-Sun 11am-7pm; Fri 11am- The collection also includes works by Canaletto, Even if you’re not staying nearby, the T: 011 0343090. important archaeological finds unearthed Cairo. It was founded in 1824, when king Carlo 8pm. www.ogrtorino.it. Corso Castelfidardo, 22. Bellotto, Picasso, Renoir, Manet and Cano. Open Officina della Scrittura in the city and throughout Piedmont are Felice of Savoy purchased the collection from art T: 011 4365832. Map G4 Tues-Sun 10am-7pm (last entrance 6.15pm). Closed is located just 20 housed in the new underground space lying expert Bernardino Drovetti. It is housed inside the on Monday and on 24 and 25 December. Open Parco del Valentino minutes by car, and adjacent to the ruins of the Roman Theatre. historic Palazzo dell’Accademia delle Scienze, built 10am-3pm on 31 December and 3pm-7pm on 1 in the 17th century by architect Guarino Guarini. In Located on the banks of the River Po, this is the one hour by bus, PALAZZO REALE - Majestic staircases, January. Full ticket price (Permanent Collection + 2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum city’s largest and most popular park. Spread over Temporary Exhibition): €10. www.pinacoteca-agnelli. from the centre lavishly decorated rooms, carved ceilings, was re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer a surface area of 550,000 sq.m, the park’s interior it. Entrance: Lingotto ‘8 Gallery’. Via Nizza, 230/103. of town, and is stuccoes, delicately gilded furniture and Dante Ferretti. The exhibition space is spread over houses numerous treasures including the Castello T: 011 0062713. well worth a frescoes. An impressive feat of significant five floors and houses more than 37,000 artifacts del Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site, Off Map artistic and architectural value, and the ranging from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. The now home to the Politecnico di Torino’s faculty of visit. This is official residence of the Savoy family until archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean-François architecture; the Medieval Village and Castle, faithful Teatro Regio a unique 1865, the Royal Palace was expanded and Champollion once said: ‘the road to Memphis and 19th century reconstructions based on the model of Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II and designed experience Piedmont and Valdostano castles, and the Botanical by Filippo Juvarra, the Teatro Regio was inaugurated changed thanks to the work of several of Thebes passes through Turin’. Make sure to arm that will Gardens, established in 1729 for educational in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, and rebuilt in Turin’s most illustrious architects and artists yourself with an audio guide: it’s free and enables you to tailor the itinerary of your visit according to purposes and open to the public since 1995. Tactile 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo Mollino, the only appeal between the 18th and 19th centuries. your requirements. Open Tues-Sun 9am-6.30pm, tours of the facility for blind or partially sighted part of the original building that still remains is its to both PALAZZO CHIABLESE - The rooms Mon 9am-2pm. Full ticket price: €15. visitors are also available. Starting from Ponte façade, now a UNESCO world heritage site. Its adults and on the ground floor of Palazzo Chiablese, unusual gated access from Piazza Castello, a ‘bronze www.museoegizio.it. Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6. Umberto I, you can walk or cycle along the river, children. an 18th century building that, over the T: 011 4406903. Map F4 or stroll along the park’s paths. The park is always gate’ named Odissea Musicale (Musical Odyssey) At the end centuries, was used as a residence for open, but the Castello del Valentino is not open to is a work by famous artist-sculptor Umberto Museo Lavazza members of the Savoy family, house the public. The Botanical Gardens can be visited Mastroianni. The Regio is one of the most important of the tour, Lavazza is one of the most famous and oldest brands the temporary exhibitions of the Royal from mid-April to mid-October. Together with the Italian theatres on the European scene, and offers an you’ll find an of Italian coffee. During its 120 years in the industry, action-packed program of opera, ballet, symphony Museums. Reggia di Venaria, Villa della Regina, Castello di Aurora it has marked the history of Italy’s coffee culture with Moncalieri, Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi and concerts and other cultural activities. www. sales advertisements and celebrities that have become an Castello di Rivoli, the Castello del Valentino is a part teatroregio.torino.it. Piazza Castello, 215. integral part of its public image. The museum uses a of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and T: 011 88151. point, circular route to focus on its creative collaborations Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site (www. Map F3/G3

42 WHERE TURIN I MARCH 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 43 ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN Emergency EUROPEAN EMERGENCY NUMBER: 112 112 is the unique European Emergency Number created to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance, Firefighters, Police. Caselle If the caller does not know where he or she Airport LUCA MACELLARI is, the operator will identify where the person Malpensa making the call is physically located and will pass Airport this information to the emergency services. PHOTO © OPEN PHARMACIES Farmacia Nizza (Via Nizza, 65. MM Nizza. T: 011 66992599). Open Mon-Sat 3pm-1pm, Sun 7:30pm-9am Farmacia Piazza Massaua (Piazza Massaua, 1/D. MM Massaua. T: 011 7793308). Open daily 24/24 Farmacia Comunale 42 (Via XX Settembre, 5. T: 011 543287). Open daily 24/24 Farmacia Comunale 25 (Porta Nuova Station. T: 011 542825). Open daily 7am-7.30pm. www.farmaciediturno.org

PASSPORTS Questura Centrale di Torino. Corso Vinzaglio, 10. T: 011 55881. www.questure.poliziadistato.it/ torino Taxi In Italy taxis cannot be flagged down as they pass you along the street; they are stationed at special taxi parking stands in most of the major squares in any city or town and at the airport and can be requested by phone. Main taxi parking Via Nizza (Porta Nuova Station), Corso Bolzano (Porta Susa Station), Piazza Castello, Piazza CLN TAXI TORINO T: 011 5737 or 5730 - www.taxitorino.it www.wetaxi.it: app available for iOS and Android, it has more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers. Taxi fares Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of €34 on the Turin Caselle Airport section starting Turin, the city of the Alps from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra The first capital of Italy, is a ‘drawing room city’ of elegant porticoes surrounded by green hills and, further fee for night or holiday travel). If the amount on the taximeter is less than €34 afield, by majestic mountains. This is Turin, a city renowned for its history, culture and natural beauties. or €39 you’ll pay the amount of the taximeter. To calculate the approximate fare of your taxi ride: urin was a Roman colony, the first and its elegant squares have given Turin the system, extends for 13.2km and only includes www.wetaxi.it/taxitorino capital of Italy and an industrial city. nickname of a ‘drawing room’ city. one line that connects the commune of Fast train network from Turin ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. Tickets can be purchased on board (only cash www.italotreno.it. payments allowed) or at several stores (a list is From its origins to the present time, With the exception of a few streets in the Collegno to the Torino Porta Nuova railway T PORTA NUOVA & PORTA SUSA STATIONS available on the website). Turin has had several different incarnations, centre, which are off-limits to traffic (including station (the city’s main railway hub) and the Turin offers fast-track access to major cities across Airports One-way ticket: €6,50 - round trip ticket: €12. each of which has left profound traces in its the Quadrilatero Romano and its shopping Torino Porta Susa station, before reaching the Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Milan: TORINO CASELLE “SANDRO PERTINI” (TRN) - Sadem also provides a shuttle service from Turin architecture and urban layout. streets), the remainder of the city is open Lingotto Fiere terminus. 1 hour • Bologna: 2 hours 20 min • Florence: (16 km from the centre of Turin). The airport, to Milan Malpensa airport. 2 hours 55 min • Venice: 3 hours 35 min • Rome: Extending over a surface area of less than 150 to traffic and most landmark attractions are Turin boasts an enviable geographic position. at the North of Turin, is easily reachable in 25 4 hours 30 min • Naples: 5 hours 30 min. minutes by car thanks to the Turin-Caselle square kilometers, crossed by the Po, the easily accessible by car. However, beware of It is surrounded by green hills that stand WHERE TIP With a Torino+Piemonte Card, you’ll The most important railway station in Turin is motorway junction. The junction is connected only pay €5 for your ticket. longest river in Italy, Turin is characterized by access regulation ‘ZTL Centrale’, which is active 715 metres above sea level, and which, in Torino Porta Nuova, in the central Corso Vittorio directly to the Tangenziale Nord and to the Taxi Torino (more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers) a checkerboard-like grid of streets that makes Mon-Fri, 7.30am-10.30am and prohibits the addition to their natural beauty, also offer Emanuele II, 58; regional, interregional, high- Turin-Milan, Turin-Aosta and Turin-Bardonecchia T: 011 5737 or 5730 - www.taxitorino.it - speed and international trains arrive at and motorways. Information desk T: 011 5676361-2. getting your bearings easy. circulation of private vehicles and parking numerous cultural and historical attractions. www.wetaxi. depart from there. www.aeroportoditorino.it One of the city’s most distinctive architectural in the centre of the city. This restriction does They can be reached in just a few minutes Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the features is its 18km of porticoes – mostly not, however, apply to taxis or chauffer driven by public transport, the Sassi-Superga tram Trains between Torino Porta Nuova and Milan • Connections to the airport Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of stop at the Torino Porta Susa station, including Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta located in the city centre – which house shops hired cars. As an alternative, you can use public or car. Turin is also an ideal base to reach €34 on the Turin-Caselle Airport section starting TGV services between Paris and Milan and other Nuova Station (on the corner between Corso from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino and cafes. Its porticoes, originally designed to transport to get around the city. These include several of Europe’s most renowned ski resorts. services using the Turin–Milan high-speed line. Vittorio Emanuele II and Via Sacchi). Every 15-30 Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra offer shade in the summer and shelter from the buses, trams and the subway (metropolitana). It is therefore not surprising that the city is TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. min, travel time approx. 45’ (4.45am-11.30pm fee for night or holiday travel). rain, snow, and sometimes the wind in winter, The ‘metropolitana’, a fully automated subway described as the ‘Capital of the Alps’. www.trenitalia.com. Mon-Sat; 5.30am-11pm Sun and holidays).

44 WHERE TURIN I MARCH 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 45 BRENTATORE CORSO VERCELLI

CORSO ALESSANDRIA CORSO

TANGENZIALE NORD TORINO

VIA PAGANELLI

Parrocchia

Santa Gianna CORSO GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI CORSO GIULIO CESARE

ANZ OL A I V S T R A D A D I D R U E N D O

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V AI D O M E N CI O C MI A R O S A VIA ADOLPHE DAUBRÉE Piscina scolastica comunale E8 PIAZZA VIA FRANCECO CIGNAVIA PINEROLO GIOVANNI D O R A R I P A R I A CORSO POTENZA VIA PIOSSASCO BOTTESINI VIA BOLOGNA C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A Ospedale Amedeo di Savoia V IA A M IL C A R E P O N C H IE L L I VIA GIAVENO VIA LIVORNO VIA GIOVANNI PACINI VIA ANDRA CASTAGNA V IA B E IN A S C O VIA PINEROLO CORSO PALERMO LARGO VIA MONTE ROSA L U N G O D O R A N A P O L I FRANCECO VIA ANTONELLO DA MESSINA VIA CUNEO C O R S O N O V A R A VIA MUZIO CLEMENTI CIGNA VIA AOSTA VIA TREVISO D O R ARP I A RA I

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VIA ANASTASIO GERMONIO ANASTASIO VIA VIA BRUINO LARGO C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A Paradiso VIA AURELIO SAFFI Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista VIA S. GIORGIO CANAVESE GIORGIO S. VIA I I TI RIE VIA LUIGI MARTINI, CORSO INGHILTERRA PIAZZA VIA QUATTRO MARZO C O R S O C E R N A IA VIA PERRONE QUATTRO Chiesa del VIA GOFFREDO CASALIS V I A F I D I A Municipio di Torino Santissimo CORSO FRANCIA V I A M A T T I E ARBARELLO V I A O R O PA

VIA EUSEBIO GARIZIO Nome Di Gesù VIA POZZO STRADA MARZO 3 V IA G IO V A N N I F A T T O R I Giardino V IA G IU S E P P E B A R B A R O U X Giardini Reali Superiori V I A FA B R O Chiesa Bambini di Beslan CORSO PALESTRO VIA ASSAROTTI della VIA STAMPATORI Basilica Corpus Domini Y N G I L B A I V COLLEGNO VIA VILLAR FOCCHIARDO VIA GIACINTOVIA AVIGLIANA COLLEGNO Palazzo VIA ANTONIO FONTANESI Parrocchia Misericordia Chiablese V I A S A N TA G I U L I A C O RFCSO NA RILG OU I VIA RUFFINI Santa Barbara Chiesa dei Santi Martiri Palazzo VIA VAL LAGARINA Vergine e Martire V IA G IU S E P P E G A R IB A L D I VIA TRECATE VIA BARDONECCHIA Stazione Reale di Torino S. Rocco O CORSO BELGIO VIA GIOVANNI CARLO CAVALLI VIA SUSA I LUNGO PO ANTONELLI VIA THURES VIA BARDONECCHIA Porta V IA A N T O N IO B E R T O L A BRUTA NT A E V I Parrocchia Santuario di G VIA ABATE PIETRO CHANOUX 3 3 CORSO BOLZANO Real Chiesa di San Lorenzo Parrocchia VIA BARDONECCHIA Santa Maria G VANCHIGLIETTA San Pellegrino Laziosi VIA XX SETTEMBRE LARGO VANCHIGLIA Nostra Signora del Susa di Piazza A San Leonardo Murialdo Palazzo VIA MILANO Chiesa SS. Trinita M MONTEBELLO VIA BARDONECCHIA A N A I B U R A I V della V I A O R O PA Sacro Cuore di Gesù Parrocchia S. Rosa Da Lima CORSO BOLZANO Chiesa di O VIA VANDALINO Chiesa Luce M ON E L O S S U B A I V Caserma San Francesco D'Assisi R I VIA DANIELE MANIN D R A L U A E B A I V P A N O T R O T O S R O C VIA VANDALINO Natività PIAZZA VIA PRINCIPI D'ACAJA Cernaia V IA M O N T E D I P IE T À V I A L E VIA CLAUDIO BEAUMONT VIA F. GUICCIARDINI PIAZZA VIA SAN DALMAZZO di Maria Vergine VIA REVELLO V IA C E S A R E B A L B O

VIA CIRENAICA VIA VIA M.SPANZOTTI Giardino Andrea Guglielminetti VIA VANDALINO N A I G R E B L A E T N O M A I V Porta Susa VIA SAN TOMMASO CASTELLO V IA G IO V A N N I F A T T O R I ADRIANO V IA S E B A S T IA N O B E A T O V A L F R È Giardino V I A O R O PA VIA GRATTONI Lamarmora V IA S A N TA G IU L IA VIA VANDALINO BORGONE VIA CORSO TRAPANI V I A F R É J U S C O R S O C E R N A IA 4 7 CORSO CASALE VIA MEDARDO ROSSO Mastio della Cittadella Palazzo VIA G.F. BELLEZZA VIALE VITTIME DELLA SHOAH VIA MERCANTI VIA DE SANCTIS V I A F I D I A VIA MONTEBELLO C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A VIA ADAMELLO VIA TRECATE V I A F R É J U S Madama Tribunale di Torino V IA G O Z Z I V I A R A I M O N D O M O N T E C U C C O L I Torre Littoria Teatro Regio V I A VA S I L E A L E C S A N D R I VIA LUIGI TARINO CORSOV I A G I AGALILEO N N O N E FERRARIS VIA PIETRO MICCA C O R S O V IT T O R IO E M A N U E L E I Chiesa di Auditorium Rai VIA ANTONIO FONTANESI

VIA CREA VIA VIA XX SETTEMBRE VIA G. B. VIOTTI V I A M O R E T T A CORSO INGHILTERRA Galleria VIA SANT’OTTAVIO Chiesa di Santa Giulia Grattacielo VIA PETROCCHI V I A O T TA V I O R E V E L V IA C E S A R E B A T T IS T I 1 I H C S E L L E N U R B O S R O C VIA SAGRA S. MICHELE VIA ANTONIO BERTOLAVIA ROMA Subalpina VIA GUASTALLA VIA CONFIENZA VIA LOMBRIASCO PIAZZA VIA LUIGI CAPRIOLO Giardino Caserma Lamarmora V IA S A N T A T E R E S A V AI P O Teatro Stabile V IA D E G L IA R T IS T I Giardino Intesa Sanpaolo Teatro Carignano VIA MICHELE BUNIVA LUNGO PO ANTONELLI PO VIA MILANO PIAZZALE VIA ANASTASIO GERMONIO ANASTASIO VIA VIA CHAMBERY Paradiso CARIGNANO VIA GIOACHINO ROSSINIMole Antonelliana Luigi Chignoli VIA BERTOLETTI V IA C E S A R E B A L B O REGINA MADONNA VIA CHAMBERY V I A M O N T E O R T I G A R A Palazzo Carignano Teatro Gobetti VIA DANTE DI NANNI VIA SAN TOMMASO Galleria S. Federico 2 Museo Nazionale del Cinema MARGHERITA I I TI RIE VIA VIA CHAMBERY V I A F R A S S I N E T O PIAZZA Chiesa di V IA G IO V A N N I F A T T O R I V I A N I N O B I X I O CORSO BOLZANO Museo Nazionale 4 SOLFERINO Santa Teresa D'Avila VIA NAPIONE13 4 VIA MONTE ASOLONE del Risorgimento Italiano Superga VIA DONATI V IA S A N TA G IU L IA V I A V I G O N E Museo Egizio PIAZZA CORSO MONTE CUCCO C O R S O P E S C H IE R A Sant’Antonio C O R S O M A T T E O T T I Biblioteca Radio Rai Palazzo CENISIA VIA POLONGHERA CARLO Museo della Radio Ponte Regina Margherita VIA CIRENAICA VIA VIA VITTORIO ALFIERI DEL PILONE Nazionale da Padova VIA SAN FRANCESCO 9 e della Televisione Nuovo Chiesa di ALBERTO Universitaria Chiesa C O RS OSM A N A UO ZR I VIA A.AVOGADRO San Francesco V I A F. A Z Z I Museo del Carcere Le Nuove VIA SANT’ANTONIO DA PADOVA VIA R. GANDOLFO San Filippo Neri VIA BARGE VIA A. V. PAPACINO da Paola 8 Dipartimento di Filosoa VIA ONORATO CASTELLINO Parrocchia e Scienze dell'Educazione PIAZZA V IA M A R IA V IT T O R IA San Benedetto Abate VIA GIULIA DI BAROLO POZZO STRADA SAN CARLO VIA MONTEBELLO V IA G IU S E P P E V E R D I Parrocchia Vinzaglio VIA VANCHIGLIA CORSOGesù Adolescente RACCONIGI © 2019. Comunicazione Proedi Copyright Chiesa dell’Immacolata VIA PAOLO BORSELLINO Concezione V AI P O VIA PEROSA C O R S O A D R IA T IC O A R E H G N O L O P A I V VIA MAGENTA V I A P. B O R S E L L I N O Chiesa della Piazzale Aldo Moro LUNGO PO NICCOLO’ MACCHIAVELLI V IA P R IN C IP E A M E D E O SS. Annunziata VIA LUIGI FERDINANDO MARSIGLI Chiesa di V IA N IN O C O S T A Santi Angeli Custodi VIA DELL’ARCIVESCOVADO VIA XX SETTEMBRE VIA EUSEBIO BAVA VIA MONTE ORTIGARA V I A S E S T R I E R E V I A I S O N Z O C O R S O V IT T O R IO E M A N U E L E I VIA CONFIENZA San Carlo Borromeo V I A T O F A N E VIA PERRERO VIA VINCENZO VELA V I A V I G O N E VIA CARDINALE MAURILIO FOSSATI Chiesa di Santa Cristina PRONDA Ospedale Martini VIA REVELLO PIAZZA VIA DELL’ARSENALE PIAZZA OGR - O cine Grandi Riparazioni CLN V IA G IO V A N N I G IO L IT T I C O RGSO A BTIE V I A A . V O C H I E R I CARLO VIA NAPIONE VIA VERZUOLO VIA CESANA STRADA VICINALE DELLA PRONDA VIA ISSIGLIO Chiesa della EMANUELE II VIA CANDIDO VIBERTI VIA G.DI BAROLO Visitazione VIA GIUSEPPE POMPA

I G I N O C C A R O S R O C PO CORSO RE UMBERTO VIA G. AMENDOLA rumena di Santa Croce VIA SAN MASSIMO Michelotti VIA V. BELLINI VIA P. GOBETTI Camera di commercio di Torino CORSO TORINO 5 VIA CARLO ALBERTO PIAZZA 5 CORSO QUINTINO SELLA VIA CUMIANA VIA MONGINEVRO GAM - Galleria Civica V I A A N T O N I O G R A M S C I Università Chiesa di Santa Pelagia V I A G E N O L A VITTORIO PIAZZA VIA FRANCESCO MOROSINI V I A S T E L V I O d'Arte Moderna VIA ROMA STRADA VICINALE DELLA PRONDA CORSO CASTELFIDARDO VIA VINCENZO VELA degli Studi di Torino VENETO SABOTINO C O R S O S T A T I U N IT I e Contemporanea Teatro Vittoria VIA G. PARINI Madonna degli Angeli V I A M O N G I N E V R O CORSO TRAPANI VIA MONGINEVRO V IA C A V O U R V I A M O N G I N E V R O V AI M A R AI V TI T O R AI VIA MONGINEVRO VIA PAOLOPolitecnico BORSELLINO di Torino CORSO TORINO V I A M O N G I N E V R O PIAZZA VIA SAN PAOLO VIA A. GASTALDI PIETRO VIA ANDREA DORIA Madonna della Guardia VIA MAGENTA Museo di Mineralogia VIA MARTIRI DELLA LIBERTA’ Re Umberto PALEOCAPA VIA GIOVANNI PLANA VIA MONCALVO Chiesa Ortodossa russa di San Massimo VIA ASIETTA VIA DELL’ARSENALE Giorgio Spezia V AI M U R AI G L OI CORSO DEGLI ABRUZZIVIA GIOVANNI BATTISTA BRICHERASIO VIA A. VOLTA PIAZZA HERMADA CORSO TORINO VIA ANDREA DORIA San Michele ArcangeloV IA G IO V A N N I G IO L IT T I C O R S O P E S C H IE R A VIA VELA VIA GIUSEPPE LUIGI LAGRANGE CORSO CASALE V I A B A R D VIA POLLENZO CORSO RODOLFO MONTEVECCHIO Ospedale VIA VILLARBASSE VIA XX SETTEMBREPIAZZA San Giovanni Vecchio Parrocchia VIA MANFREDO FANTI CARLO PIAZZA PIAZZA PIAZZA VIA MONFERRATO V I A I S O N Z O LAGRANGE PIAZZA Gesù Buon Pastore VIA MAGENTA FELICE BODONI Conservatorio V I A B R I S S O G N E Statale di Musica CAVOUR MARIA VIA VOLVERA "Giuseppe Verdi" Giardino Aiuola Balbo Ponte Vittorio Emanuele I VIA CUMIANA TERESA

VIA MATILDE SERAO V I A C A R S O V I A B O S S O L A S C O Politecnico di Torino Chiesa di San Secondo Martire V IA G IU S E P P E M A Z Z IN I V I A L A N C I A VIA ACCADEMIA ALBERTINA

VIA CARAGLIO VIA ASIETTA VIA DANTE DI NANNI PIAZZETTA VIA UMBERTO COSMO C O R S O S T A T I U N IT I VIA SAN MASSIMO CORSO QUINTINO SELLA V I A S . B E R N A R D I N O MANLIO VIA MASSENA Porta Nuova V IA C A V O U R IH C S E L L E N U R B O S R O C VIA ALFONSO BONAFOUS V I A V I N C E N Z O L A N C I A VIA ISSIGLIO PIAZZALE CORSO TRIESTE V IA D E I M IL L E Chiesa Gran Madre Di Dio V I A S . B E R N A R D I N O VIA GABRIELE D'ANNUNZIO BROSIO VIA SAN PAOLO VIA CARLO ALBERTO VIA MARTIRI DELLA LIBERTA’ Fondazione Mario Merz DUCA D’AOSTA VIA LEGNANO Chiesa di San Massimo VIA VILLA DELLA REGINA VIA E. D'OVIDIO PIAZZALE Stazione di Torino S. Francesco di Sales Parrocchia GIAN MARIA 6 6 PIAZZA PIAZZA San Bernardino V I A T R I N I T À VOLONTÈ see pages 6-7 Porta Nuova C O R S O V IT T O R IO E M A N U E L E I FILIPPO Top in Town CORSO TRENTO CARLO ALBERTO VIA RODOLFO MONTEVECCHIO V I A V I N C E N Z O L A N C I A GALVAGNO DALLA CHIESA V I A C H A L L A N T VIA ALFONSO LAMARMORA VIA S. FRANCESCO DA PAOLA V I A O S A S C O VIA SEGRE CORSO DUCA D’AOSTA Chiesa VIA VITTORIO AMEDEO GIOANETTI V I A C O G N A S S O 1 VIA LEGNANO11 V IA S . P IO V Cristiana Evangelica MOLE ANTONELLIANA 6 VILLA DELLA REGINA MUSEO NAZIONALE DELL’AUTOMOBILE VIA PAOLO SACCHI PIAZZA C O R S O L U IG I E IN A U D I CORSO MONTE CUCCO Giardino San Paolo Giardino Caduti di VIA SALUZZO BORGO PO GENERALE S T R A D A A N T I C A D I G R U G L I A S C O VIA GABRIELE D'ANNUNZIO Cefalonia e Corfù VIA SAN SECONDO VIA SAN MASSIMO VIA VILLA DELLA REGINA V I A I S O N Z O VIA G.ARIMONDI CORSO GALILEO FERRARIS ROBILANT 2 VIA MARCO POLO 7 VIA VALEGGIO VIA PASTRENGO 12 VIA GIOVANNI CAMERANA Tempio Valdese V I A P A O L O B R A C C I N I EGYPTIAN MUSEUM TEATRO REGIO ALLIANZ JUVENTUS STADIUM di Torino VIA DELLA ROCCA VIA FRATELLI CALANDRA VIA SPALATO V IA B .G A L L IA R I VIAComunità SANT'ANSELMO

BORGO V I A G O I T O CORSO TRENTO VIA LEGNANO Stadio Primo Nebiolo Ebraica Chiesa di VIA SAN PAOLO V I A P A O L O B R A C C I N I

San Giovanni CORSO CAIROLI V 13 VIA NIZZA 3 8 CORSO GENERALE G. GOVONE di Torino Evangelista I ROYAL MUSEUMS VIA PO PROMENADE BASILICA DI SUPERGA A S T R A D A A N T I C A D I G R U G L I A S C O STRADA ANTICA DI GRUGLIASCO V IA S . P IO V G A Santa Maria del 6 V I A M A LT A VIA MADAMA CRISTINA E SAN PAOLO VIA CRISTOFORO COLOMBO T Monte dei Cappuccini VIA MARCO POLO A

VIATOLMINO GI OCANI R O S OCR N 4 9 14 PIAZZA V I A S O M MAC A M PAG N A O V I A O S A S C O PALAZZO MADAMA PIAZZA SAN CARLO REGGIA DI VENARIA E VIA PASTRENGO V IA C L A U D IO L U IG I B E R T H O L L E T 5 T MADAMA T O V I A F R A N C E S C O M I L L I O VIA SALUZZO R E N O 7 CORSO MEDITERRANEO CRISTINA G I A R D I BORGO CRIMEA 7 V I A B O B B I O VIA ALFONSO LAMARMORA VIA VALEGGIOVIA MASSENA V I A R O D O L F O R E N I E R VIA AMERIGO VESPUCCI VIA GOVERNOLO LARGO Ponte Umberto I CORSO MONCALIERI VIA ISSIGLIO 5 10 15 SALUZZO PARCO DEL VALENTINO LINGOTTOParrocchia PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI V IA S IL V IO P E L L IC O PARCO V I A O R M E A V I A C U R TAT O N E V I A I S O N Z O Beata Vergine CORSO RE UMBERTO delle Grazie DEL VALENTINO Parco pubblico di Villa Genero Palazzo dello Sport Ru ni V I A M O R O Z Z O VIA CRISTOFORO COLOMBO Parrocchia Museo VICOLO CROCETTA VIA PRINCIPE10 TOMMASO 11 Santi Pietro V IA G IU S E P P E B A R E T T I Lingotto VIA CARAGLIO e Paolo Apostoli VIA BELFIORE dell’Automobile VIA VINCENZO GIOBETTI VIA GOVERNOLO SHOPPING AREAS I N E R O D I U G A I V CORSO TRAPANI C O R S O C A R L O E N E L L O R O S S E L L I V I A T I R R E N O 15 Parco Marconi C O R S O F IU M E Stupinigi CROCETTA VIA GIUSEPPE BARETTI VIA SPALATO Chiesa Santa46 Teresa WHERE TURIN I MARCH 2019 CORSO GERMANO SOMMEILLER www.wheretraveler.com 47 VIATOLMINO VIA PAOLO SACCHI V IA V O L T U R N O San Francesco di Sales V I A R I V A LT A CO R S O G U G L I E L M O MA R CO N I A B VIA GIAMBATTISTA VICOC D E F G H I L V I A C E S Le Gru V I A T I R R E N O VIA EVANGELISTA TORRICELLI V I A O R M E A Centro Commerciale CORSO ALCIDE DE GASPERI VIA GIAN DOMENICO CASSINI VIA SAN SECONDO VIA MADAMA CRISTINAA R E L O M B R O S O A E R C A I V CORSO DEGLI ABRUZZIVIA GIUSEPPE PIAZZI V IA G IU S E P P E G IA C O S A

VIA MALTA PO VIA AMERIGO VESPUCCI A CORSO LIONE VIA FERDINANDO MAGELLANO Z

V IA B A R L E T T A VIA ROVERETO V IA M O N F A L C O N E VIA RICCIONE VIA FRANCESCO PETRARCA Museo di

Giardino Cesare Parrocchia Antropologia Criminale C O R S O D A N T E Santuario CORSO MONTE LUNGO Sacro Cuore di Gesù

CORSO SIRACUSA O C VIA LUIGI FEDERICO MENABREA V I A O R M E A 500 m V I A C R E A PO

CORSO UNIONEVIA TUNISI SOVIETICA V IA P A O L O G A ID A N O CORSO MASSIMO D’AZEGLIO Carducci C O R S O B R A M A N T E VIA ARDUINO Molinette V I A F I L A D E L F I A

VIA TRIPOLI

CORSO GALILEO FERRARIS VIA GIORDANO BRUNO Stadio Olimpico Grande Torino di Torino Ponte Balbis

MIRAFIORI NORD A V I A C R E A M

VIA ALAZZIO

E PILONETTO S T R . D E L P O R T O N E V I A G E N O V A A S U C A R I S O S R O C VIA CHERASCO

V I A T U N I S I VIA NIZZA L L

VIA GORIZIA I

VIA STELLONE H

VIA THONON C A V I A F I L A D E L F I A

CORSO SPEZIA O

C O R S O C O S E N Z A VIA TRIPOLI VIA VARAZZE S C O R S O E . T A Z Z O L I R

V I A B U E N O S A I R E S Spezia O C CORSO SPEZIA V IA S A N M A R IN O

VIA BRONI

CORSO GIOVANNI AGNELLI VIA C.MARTINOTTI CORSO SPEZIA VIA VARAITA

CORSO ORBASSANO CORSO MONCALIERI CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICAV I A M O N T E V I D E O PIAZZA

VIA GIULIO BIGLIERI V I A G E N O V A

CORSO ORBASSANO CORSO EUSEBIO GIAMBONE Lingotto CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA CAVORETTO LINGOTTO Passerella Olimpica Museo dell'Automobile di Torino

VIA SPOTORNO VIA GARESSIO Lingotto PO SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO VIA VADO

CORSO ORBASSANO

VIA MILLEFONTI V I A G E N O V A SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO Lingotto Fiere CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

VIAVIA VENTIMIGLIA MILLEFONTI

MILLEFONTI CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA Parco Giuseppe Di Vittorio

VIA PASSO BUOLE Torre Regione Piemonte

VIA SOMMARIVA Palavela

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

VIA NIZZA VIA PASSO BUOLE I R E I L A C N O M O S R O C

Parrocchia Assunzione VIA O. VIGLIANI di Maria Vergine Giardino Corpo VIA VINOVO Italiano di Liberazione

C O R S O T R A IA N O V I A G E N O V A

VIA O. VIGLIANI

VIA VENTIMIGLIA

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T MIRAFIORI SUD CORSO BENEDETTO CROCE Palazzo del Lavoro VIA PIO VII CORSO PIERO MARONCELLI

VIA O. VIGLIANI CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA

V I A O N O R A T O V I G L I A N I PIAZZA CORSO FRAT. ROSSELLI

BENGASI

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

M O T R A E L E U N A M E A I V P O

Parco Colonnetti S TRA D TONA OR I

E T S E I R T O S R O C

VIA SESTRIERE S A N G O N E

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

S A N G O N E BORGARETTO

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T

VIALE TORINO NICHELINO VIA TORINO

C O R S O T R EI S T E PO

VIA BOGINO MONCALIERI

VIA TORINO

VIALE TORINO STUPINIGI

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi Parrocchia di Stupinigi

500 m

Parco Naturale di Stupinigi Where Milan Magazine

ESSENTIALS

MILANO MALPENSA (MXP) -. ZTL informations – Visitors traveling with their Your personal travel assistant now in the The airport, at the East of Turin (135 km from the own car and staying in a hotel in the central city centre), is reachable in 1 hour 30 minutes by area can enter the ZTL for the day of arrival Where Turin Magazine best hotels in Turin! car from Turin thanks to the A4 motorway. and departure only, filling out a form at the [ ONLY AT PREMIERE HOTELS ] Information desk T: 02 232323. hotel reception (ask your concierge for more www-sea-aeroportimilano.it. information). • Connections to the airport In the same way it is possible to reach paid Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta public parking areas within the ZTL by filling in Nuova Station provides a shuttle service also the same parking lot with the request for transit from Turin to Milano Malpensa airport. authorization no later than 11am. FREE FREE HOTSPOT www.aeroportoditorino.it Tourist Information CALLS INTERNET WIFI CUNEO LEVALDIGI (CUF) - (65 km from the centre TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Piazza Carlo of Turin). Information T: 0172 741500 – 558. www. Felice, in front of the Porta Nuova Station. T: 011 aeroporto.cuneo.it 535181 Open daily 9am-1pm and 2pm-6pm. • Connections to the airport TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Piazza BMC Bus Shuttle service (www.bmcbus.it) available in Castello corner of Via Garibaldi. T: 011 535181. connection from Turin with departure and arrival Open daily 9am-6pm. of flights. €8 each way, we recommend buy HOTEL INFO CITY TICKETS & ticket online. www.aeroportocuneo.it Special Tours & SERVICES GUIDE by EVENTS Getting around Turin CITYSIGHTSEEING TORINO HOP ON-HOP OFF GTT – Gruppo Torinese Trasporti/Local Public Hallmark red double-decker bus offering 3 routes: Transport Company - www.gtt.to.it Line A to explore the city center and the hill; Infoline Mon-Sat 6.30am-7.30pm. Green Line T: overlooking the Po with the Valentino Park, the 800 019152; from mobile (Toll Number): T: 011 village and the medieval fortress; Bike Sharing 0672000. Line B to access various sites including the GTT Info Point and ticket - Railway Station Torino Automobile Museum, the Lingotto, the [TO]BIKE - the bike sharing [TO]Bike service offers Porta Nuova, in front of the track 20. Mon-Fri Pinacoteca Agnelli, Eataly, the Olympic sites and more than 140 stations scattered around the city from which to pick up and deposit rental 7.15am-7pm. Sat, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. the OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni; 5 STARS Lost and Found on GTT vehicles: The driver Line C for the Allianz Stadium, the Reggia di bikes. Various subscription options are available: Allegroitaliaannual €25, Golden weekly Palace €8 –or Via daily dell’Arcivescovado, €5. The use 18 is • free and GTT personnel are not allowed to return Venaria and the La Mandria Castle. Meeting Map E4-5 objects found on the vehicles directly. Lost point: at any bus stop. for rides of less than 30 minutes, even several Grandtimes Hotel a day, Sitea after – Via which Carlo Alberto, the rate 35 • providedMap F5 for by articles found on GTT vehicles are taken to the Assistance at Ticket Point City Sightseeing Torino 4 STARS Lost and Found of the City of Turin, where they (Piazza Castello corner of Via Po). 8 language your subscription formula is applied by scaling Ac Hotel Torino by Marriott – Via Bisalta, 11 • Off Map can be collected after 48 hours from the time of commentary. the amount from the credit on the card. To Art Hotel Boston Torino – Via A. Massena, 70 • Off Map loss. The lost and found office is in Via Meucci 4. Ticket valid 24h (48h if you combine 3 lines). access the service you need to be a credit card Art Hotel Olympic – Via Verolengo, 19 • Off Map Mon, Wed, Thurs, 9am-12am. T: 011 4430753. Combo tickets for top Turin attractions are also holder. For more information and other types Purchase your ticket before you get on the bus available. Bestof subscription Western Crystal visit Palace the Hotel website – Via Nizza,www.tobike.it 11 • Map E6 . or the tram.Ordinary ticket (€1.70) valid for 100 www.city-sightseeing.it/en/turin BestGreen Western Line Plus 800 Executive 548040. Hotel Store and [TO]Bike Suites – Via Santa minutes on buses, trams or metro. VChiara,ia Nizza, 28 26/f. • Off Open Map Mon-Fri 10am-7pm. Best Western Plus Hotel Genova – Via P. Sacchi, 14/B • MOBIKEMap E6 – this ‘free floating’ system allows you Ctooncord book – Viaa bike G.L. Lagrange, via a smartphone 47 • Map F6 App, identify Dinastythe position Suites – of Piazza the Carlo bike Felice, nearest 7 • Map to E5 you and then TORINO + PIEMONTE CARD Diplomaticleave it in – any Via Cernaia, authorized 42 • Map parking C3 area in the city. DoubleCost: 1Tree euro by Hiltondeposit, Turin and Lingotto 0.30 euros– Via Nizza, every 230 30• minutes. For more informations visit Off Map www.mobike.com. Duparc Contemporary Suites – Corso Massimo d’Azeglio, 21 OFO• Off – MapOfo, the world largest station-free bike Hsharingoliday Inn company, Turin City Centre has launched – Via Assietta, in 3Turin. • Map D6 HotelOperating dei Pittori across – Corso 180 Regina cities Margherita, worldwide, 57 • Map Ofo’s I3 Hmissionotel Principe is to di provide Torino – Corsoa convenient, Moncalieri, 85 affordable • Off Map Lancasterand low Torino carbon – Corso method Filippo Turati,of travel. 8 • Off Users Map can Nhdownload Collection Torinoan App Piazza on their Carlina smartphone – Piazza Carlo Emanuele to find II,nearby 15 • Map bikes G5 and scan the QR code located on Nheither Torino the Centro frame – Corso or smartVittorio Emanuelelock to unlock II, 104 • Map them. B4 NhThe Torino company’s Lingotto Congressyellow bikes – Via Nizza, have 262 airless • Off tyresMap Nh(to Torino prevent Santo punctures) Stefano – Via and Porta a Palatina,3-speed 19 gear• Map shift.F2-3 NCosts:ovotel Torino0.20 euros Corso Giuliofor the Cesare first – Corsohalf hour;Giulio Cesare,0.30 euros 338/34for the • Off second Map half hour; 0.50 euros for every 30 minutes thereafter and 5 euros per day.

RUSSKYMAVERICK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Pacific Hotel Fortino – Strada del Fortino, 36 • Off Map © SFortarhotels more Majestic informations – Corso Vittorio visit www.ita.ofo.comEmanuele II, 54 • Map E6 This card can be purchased online or at Turin’s Tourist Offices. With this pass you get The Originals Hotel Turin Royal – Corso Regina Margherita, OBIKE - oBike is a global leader in bike-sharing free entry to Turin’s most important museums and exhibitions, castles, fortresses and 249 • Off Map without stations offering an innovative service TownHouse 70 – Via XX Settembre, 70 • Map F3 the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont for 1*, 2, 3 or 5 consecutive days. It also for short distance transport. The platform is Turin Palace Hotel – Via P. Sacchi, 8 • Map E6 offers reduced-price tickets to several other cultural sites in Piedmont, discounts on currently present on 3 different continents for a Victoria Torino – Via N. Costa, 4 • Map F5 total of 26 states and over 40 cities worldwide. Turin’s main tourist services, plus other benefits. Villa Savoia – Corso Sicilia, 1, angolo Corso Moncalieri • For more information www.turismotorino.org The app, which can be downloaded comfortably Offon yourMap smartphone, allows users to locate and *The one-day pass is valid for a maximum of three entries to the Turin museum circuit. rent bicycles using a completely innovative www.manetmobile.com [email protected] 48 WHERE TURIN I MARCH 2019