Châteaux, Rivers, and

Wednesday, June 07

Our flight arrived at Charles de Gaulle Airport at eight thirty o'clock and we made our way to a long serpentine line in front of passport control. Once cleared through that process we made our way out of the luggage area and found the Viking Transfer Point. The agent checked off our names and immediately introduced us to our van driver who then drove just Liz and me to Le Méridien Etoile. We must have been late arrivals as others were already checked into the hotel from other group arrivals.

Bernard, our Viking agent at the hotel welcomed us and gave us a quick briefing of what was to take place today; recommendations for meals at eight nearby restaurants; when we should place luggage outside the room tomorrow; when breakfast would be served; and when we were to meet the bus. He was very efficient and we quickly proceeded to our room to drop off our hand-carry items and then take a walk around the neighborhood.

1 We returned to the lobby to inquire if there was a nearby market. Bernard advised us that there was but it would close in an hour and a half so we set out to visit the area. The hotel is in in Paris's 17th arrondissement, directly north of the Arc de Triomphe at the edge of the city. This charming, mainly residential district on the Right Bank is often called Quartier des Batignolles-Monceau, and its sections still feel like a collection of villages, including the Quartier des Epinettes, Quartier des Batignolles, Quartier de la Plaine Monceau and Quartier des Ternes.

The southwestern shopping area of the 17th is named for two major avenues: Wagram-Ternes feels much like an extension of the Champs Élysées, with stylish boutiques. The north-eastern end, Batignolles, has a more artsy feeling, with bars and bistros where BoBos (bohemian-bourgeois) hang out. The Batignolles neighborhood is the former home of a trove of artists and writers including Emile Zola and Edouard Manet.

We were guided to find Marché des Batignolles, a covered market with organic produce, near the Square de Batignolles and continue to a delightful little park with a stream, ducks and a carousel. To reach this area we could not help but notice the activity at Place de la Porte Maillot. Notable here was the large construction project underway. It seemed that the entire Place was just a round-about detour. In anticipation of the 2024 Olympics, " A redevelopment project foresees to replace it by a central axis that will connect the avenue de la Grande Armée to the avenue Charles-de-Gaulle, in Neuilly-sur-Seine." This will include an RER-E station 30 meters below the current roundabout.

Deciding to window-shop we strolled further to the Arc de Triomphe but did not go further to the Champs-Élysées. Retracing our route, we turned right at Boulevard Pereire and noted a lovely rose

2 garden with an arched pathway that included a skateboard course favored by a dozen teenagers and older. Reaching Parc Monceau, we discovered it is set in informal "English" style. Scaled-down architectural replicas include an Egyptian pyramid, Dutch windmill, and a Chinese fort. The Parc Monceau was painted by Monet numerous times.

By this time we discovered a Carrefour Market so we went inside to purchase a bottle of wine and some snacks to take back to our room. By this time it was two o'clock and we decided to check out one of the restaurants suggested to us by Bernard. We selected Tabac des Ternes, a corner restaurant two blocks from the hotel.

Ordering an old favorite, we chose Frites au steak, vinaigrette à la salade, aux échalotes (Steak with French fries, Salad vinaigrette, with shallots). I must admit the steak, although quite flavorful, was the toughest cut of meat I have ever had in Paris. The steak knife could not cut it but the regular table knife, which had a slightly serrated edge, was able to cut the meat. As I mentioned, it was tasty but required some effort to chew it.

Returning to the hotel, we set out clothes for the next morning and watched television before early retirement. It had been a long day and we were tired.

Thursday, June 08

The breakfast was as I had hoped. Lovely, strong coffee, great breads and large, flaky croissants. Plus a definite weakness of mine, French charcuterie. A third of a baguette with various types of cured meats, pâté, cheese, cornichons, baguette and mustard is my idea of breakfast perfection. Whenever I return to France (or Quebec or Montreal) I look forward to this delight.

Our luggage was brought down to the lobby during our meal. And after returning to our room to gather our jackets and day-packs, we identified our suitcases before they were then loaded into the bus. Bernard then introduced to our new guide, Sylvie, who described our plans for the day. We would be driving 130 kilometers (80 miles) to Orléans, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. As we drove Sylvie spoke of the history of the city.

Orléans is located in the northern bend of the Loire, which crosses from east to west. Orléans belongs to the vallée de la Loire sector between Sully-sur-Loire and Chalonnes- sur-Loire, which was in 2000 inscribed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. The capital of Orléanais, 120 kilometers south-south-west of Paris, it is bordered to the north by the Beauce region and the forêt d'Orléans, and the Orléans-la-Source neighborhood and the Sologne region to the south.

The city was always a strategic point on the Loire, for it was sited at the river's most northerly point, and thus its closest point to Paris. There were few bridges over the dangerous river Loire, but Orléans had one of them, and so became – with Rouen and Paris – one of medieval France's three richest cities.

On the south bank the "châtelet des Tourelles" protected access to the bridge. This was the site of the battle on 8 May 1429 which allowed Joan of Arc to enter and lift the siege of the Plantagenets during the Hundred Years' War, with the help of the royal generals Dunois and Florent d'Illiers. The city's inhabitants have continued to remain faithful and grateful to her to this day, calling her "la pucelle d'Orléans" (the maid of Orléans), offering her a middle-class house in the city, and contributing to her ransom when she was taken

3 prisoner.

When France colonized America, the territory it conquered was immense, including the whole Mississippi River (whose first European name was the River Colbert), from its mouth to its source at the borders of Canada. Its capital was named la Nouvelle-Orléans in honor of Louis XV's regent, the duke of Orléans, and was settled with French inhabitants against the threat from British troops to the north-east.

When we reached Orleans we dismounted from the bus close to the cathedral but first walked a half block to the Hotel Groslot which was built between 1530 and 1550 for the Bailiff Jacques Groslot. It has been the City Hall since 1790, and its interior was restored by the architect Delton in 1850. Today, visitors can browse the Salon d'Honneur, the guardroom, the former Municipal Council Hall, the former Mayor's office and the wedding hall in which Francis II died, having come to preside over the the States General in 1560 with his mother, Catherine de Medici and his wife Mary Stuart. Charles IX, Henri III and Henri IV have been among other illustrious guests.

I think it prudent that I mention here that before we reached the city Sylvie also reviewed the history of Aquitaine, the 100 Year's War between England and France, and Joan of Arc. I mention that now because Jeanne d'Arc played heavily in the efforts to return the land permanently to France. She played a role in the lives of each of the cities we visited in the Loire Valley and artwork, statues, and stained glass depict her historical impact everywhere.

When Liz and I took the cruise to Normandy we visited the site where Jeanne d'Arc was burned at the stake by the British. Now we would learn much of what took place before her capture, trial, and execution.

Joan of Arc (Jeanne d'Arc, 6 January c. 1412 – 30 May 1431), "The Maid of Orléans" (La Pucelle d'Orléans), is considered a heroine of France for her role during the Lancastrian phase of the Hundred Years' War and was canonized as a Roman Catholic saint. Joan of Arc was born to Jacques d'Arc and Isabelle Romée, a peasant family, at Domrémy in north- east France. Joan said she received visions of the Archangel Michael, Saint Margaret, and Saint Catherine of Alexandria instructing her to support Charles VII and recover France from English domination late in the Hundred Years' War. The uncrowned King Charles VII sent Joan to the siege of Orléans as part of a relief mission. She gained prominence after the siege was lifted only nine days later. Several additional swift victories led to Charles VII's coronation at Reims. This long-awaited event boosted French morale and paved the way for the final French victory.

On 23 May 1430, she was captured at Compiègne by the Burgundian faction, which was

4 allied with the English. She was later handed over to the English and put on trial by the pro-English Bishop of Beauvais Pierre Cauchon on a variety of charges. After Cauchon declared her guilty she was burned at the stake on 30 May 1431, dying at about nineteen years of age.

In 1456, an inquisitorial court authorized by Pope Callixtus III examined the trial, debunked the charges against her, pronounced her innocent, and declared her a martyr. In the 16th century she became a symbol of the Catholic League, and in 1803 she was declared a national symbol of France by the decision of Napoleon Bonaparte. She was beatified in 1909 and canonized in 1920.

After visiting the Hotel Groslot we returned to the front of the Basilique Cathédrale Sainte-Croix d'Orléans, a Roman Catholic church with Gothic edifice. It is the seat of the Bishop of Orléans, and was built from 1278 to 1329 and 1601-1829 (after partial destruction in 1568).

Admiring the western facade as we walked by - and all of us taking many photos - we noted the ornate stonework, 88 meter high towers and three rose windows. The highest point of the cathedral, the bell tower, reaches a height of 114 meters. The transepts also have interesting features such as rose windows so be sure to walk right round the outside to see all the highlights.

Inside, Orleans cathedral follows a conventional design with a main nave, side naves, a transept and the choir section. The gray stone gives a rather stark look to the high columns and arches. Mounted on the columns are recently made family crests and banners of what I presume were of the prominent families of the time. These helped bring color to the church.

The stained glass windows, also quite recent additions to the cathedral, are also interesting, in particular those that relate events from the life of Joan of Arc. Since little of the original cathedral from 1429 now remains, the windows act as a useful reminder of the events and history of that time. We then drove to Place du Martroi, the main square in Orléans city center. The equestrian statue of Joan of Arc in bronze was made by Alfred-Désiré Lanson, completed in 1895 and inaugurated in 1898. Around the Place are some shops, some cafes and bars, and a carousal. I mentioned that there is a similar statue of Joan of Arc in New Orleans, Louisiana. The locals have nicknamed it “Joni on a pony”.

We walked around the square and down several of the side streets until we came upon Restaurant le Brin de Zinc where we had lunch. Ordering Latterine de champagne maison (house salad) and Moules Marinières, vin blanc, échalotes et ail (Mussels, Sailor-Style, with white wine, shallots, and garlic).

5 After lunch we boarded the bus and set out for Château de Chambord and onward to Tours (118 km / 73 mi).

Château de Chambord. This is the most photographed Château in France and our post lunch arrival was still ahead of any heavy crowding.

The royal Château de Chambord at Chambord, Loir-et- Cher, France, is one of the most recognizable châteaux in the world because of its very distinctive French Renaissance architecture which blends traditional French medieval forms with classical Renaissance structures. The building, which was never completed, was constructed by King Francis I of France.

Chambord is the largest château in the Loire Valley; it was built to serve as a hunting lodge for Francis I, who maintained his royal residences at the châteaux of Blois and Amboise. The original design of the Château de Chambord is attributed, though with some doubt, to Domenico da Cortona; Leonardo da Vinci may also have been involved.

Chambord was altered considerably during the twenty-eight years of its construction (1519–1547), during which it was overseen on-site by Pierre Nepveu. With the château nearing completion, Francis showed off his enormous symbol of wealth and power by hosting his old archrival, Emperor Charles V, at Chambord.

Sylvie, our guide, stated that châteaux in the 16th-century were not castle architecture. They did maintain some features commonly associated with castles but did not have serious defenses. Extensive gardens and water features were common. The layout is reminiscent of a typical castle with a keep, corner towers, and defended by a moat. The internal layout is the French and Italian style of grouping rooms into self-contained suites, a departure from medieval corridor rooms. Chambord has a central keep with four immense bastion towers at the corners. The château features 440 rooms, 282 fireplaces, and 84 staircases. Four rectangular vaulted hallways on each floor form a cross-shape.

Construction of this “lodge” began in 1519 at the request of François I, a lover of the arts and passionate hunter. Today Château de Chambord is emblematic of the French Renaissance in Europe and throughout the world.

We entered the estate and climbed the the renowned double helix staircase, inspired by Leonardo da Vinci. People walking up this stairway were not visible by those walking down.

6 Francois I died in 1547 and during his 32 year reign only spent 72 days at Chambord. At the time of his death, only the keep and royal wing had been completed. His son, Henry II, and later Louis XIV – both kings fond of hunting – continued construction at the castle.

Louis XIV had some rooms altered at Chambord to reflect his notions of what the royal protocol demanded. These State Apartments has a series of anterooms, staterooms, and private rooms as were customary at the Palace of Versailles.

I was fascinated by a painting in one of the rooms (Camp of the Drap d'or) depicting a meeting of the courts of Henry VIII of England and Francois I of France. “The diplomatic results of this meeting were meager. As early as 1522, the war resumed between Francis I and Henry VIII. This meeting, however, was not so much a matter of peace as of glorifying the English prince. In the Europe of the Renaissance, England was still perceived as a culturally and politically secondary kingdom. The Golden Cloth Camp was an opportunity for Henry VIII to expose to everyone the power of his dynasty and his country by symbolically confronting Francis I through refined and costly entertainment. This canvas, the original of which was

7 commissioned at the end of the reign of Henry VIII, affirms that if the two kings were engaged in battle of magnificence, it was the Tudor who carried it off. The abundant production of praiseworthy sources throughout Europe testifies to the success of the operation of political communication that was the Camp of the Drap d'or.”

As was customary with many royal Châteaux during the sixteenth century, the rooms were only furnished for the duration of the king’s visits.

Arriving at the Clarion Château Belmont Tours, a former 18th century castle, we discover the hotel is located in a six-acre park in the heart of the city. The gates are secured and the bus had to unload at the base of a mild slope to unload. Then we walked about a block through the gardens to the hotel lobby. The door to our room was stuck and the bellman gave it a hard push as he said, “French construction!” Apparently he was from Quebec. The room was comfortable and we would remain here for two nights.

Two hours later we gathered in the dinning room. Our first service was a poached egg yolk floating in a corn soup sprinkled with parsley. The yolk was a deep yellow but loose and many people struggled around it. The main course was breast of pork which had a different texture, a much fattier meat than found in a pork chop. This was accompanied with a polenta. For dessert we had a chocolate lava cake with a white, raspberry sorbet.

A few days later, when talking to Chef Caesar from the ship, I discussed this serving and he smiled and said we would not likely find that pork in the United States. It is a Pyrenees delicacy and is called black pork.

Gascon Porc Noir (Gascon Black Pig) is friendly and docile but full of cute piggy character. They are, as their name states, black skinned and have wiry black hair with big floppy ears that cover their eyes protecting them from brambles and thorns as they forage. They are a rustic breed, a descendant of the wild boar and they live outside all year round baring the swing in seasonal temperatures. The meat is darker than normal pork and it is well marbled with a fuller flavor. It isn’t gamy as one would think but rich and it’s this exceptional flavor that makes Gascon Black Pork a sought after delicacy. The jewel in the crown is "charcuterie" made from the pork; most noteworthy are the dried hams which are aged for 15-20 months and which have a fine, delicate flavor with a long lasting aroma. Restaurants worldwide search for this charcuterie and as production is so small it has an almost boutique like cult following.

After dinner we retired to our room to prepare for the next day.

Friday, June 09

Stretching our legs a bit, we walked through the grounds of the hotel until the breakfast room was ready to accept patrons. There were two tour groups at the hotel and we were ushered to the Viking tables. The offering was not as elaborate as the hotel in Paris but it was substantial enough to give us a good start for the day.

We first drove to a gilded statue of an American Indian holding an eagle, the principal monument which commemorates the US citizens who served during World War I in Services of Supply of the

8 American Expeditionary Forces. It is maintained by the American Battle Monuments Commission.

Continuing, Sylvie briefed us concerning the city of Tours. In Gallic times the city was important as a crossing point of the Loire. Becoming part of the Roman Empire during the 1st century AD, the city was named "Caesarodunum" ("hill of Caesar"). The name evolved in the 4th century when the original Gallic name, Turones, became first "Civitas Turonum" then "Tours". It was at this time that the amphitheater of Tours, one of the five largest amphitheaters of the Empire, was built. Tours became the metropolis of the Roman province of Lugdunum towards 380–388, dominating the Loire Valley, Maine and Brittany. One of the outstanding figures of the history of the city was Saint Martin, second bishop who shared his coat with a naked beggar in Amiens. This incident and the importance of Martin in the medieval Christian West made Tours, and its position on the route of pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela, a major center during the Middle Ages.

I was reminded of my assignment in Worms, Germany when we watched St. Martin's Day (Martinstag) religious observance on November 11 that is particularly popular with children. It is dedicated to St. Martin of Tours and celebrates modesty and altruism - both values commonly associated with the Saint. Riding into the light of a large bonfire, the Saint was dressed up as a Roman soldier. At the end of the procession people gather around a large bonfire to sing songs dedicated to St. Martin, eat sweet pastries and drink mulled wine (Glühwein).

This is a Roman Catholic basilica dedicated to Saint Martin of Tours, on whose tomb it was built. It was built to replace an earlier basilica, built in the Middle Ages and thoroughly demolished during the French Revolution.

St. Martin was born in modern-day Hungary in about 316. His father was an officer in the Roman army, and Martin accompanied him to Pavia in Italy at an early age. When he reached adolescence, he was enrolled in the army himself and soon transferred to Amiens in France. By this time, Martin had converted to Christianity.

It was in Amiens that the famous legend of the cloak occurred, which is depicted in stained glass windows and carved on capitals throughout the region. At the gates of the city, one very cold day, Martin met a shivering and half-naked beggar. Moved with compassion, he divided his coat into two parts and gave one to the poor man.

Martin was baptized soon after, and with in a couple years his conscience would no longer allow him to fight in the army. After securing his release, Martin headed straight for Poitiers to become a disciple of the famous Bishop Hilary. Martin thereafter spent his time battling Arianism, preaching the Gospel in western Gaul, and living as a hermit at a deserted place called Ligugé.

9 When the bishop of Tours died in 371, the city's clergy begged Martin to take the position. But Martin strongly refused, desiring the solitary life above all else. So the town took desperate measures - Rusticius, a rich citizen of Tours, went and begged Martin to come to his dying wife to prepare her for death. Martin followed him immediately, but had hardly entered the city when, in spite of the opposition of a few ecclesiastical dignitaries, popular acclamation forced him to become Bishop of Tours.

We had time to view the stained glass windows depicting the legacy of Saint Martin as we walked through the basilica. I enjoyed the visual aide displayed at each glass. They described how few could read in the middle ages and the stained glass presented the biblical teachings as well as church history to the congregation. It was informative to read the explanation of how they did just that.

We then began a drive to Château de Chenonceau (34 km / 21 mi). We arrived early and entered queues with other groups and school children as Sylvie obtained tickets for us to enter the estate. “The Château of Chenonceau was once a royal residence as property of the crown. It is a truly exceptional site, both for its original idea of building it on the Cher River, and for its destiny: to be loved, managed, and protected by women such as Diane de Poitiers and Catherine de’ Medici. Today, the Château of Chenonceau is second only to Versailles as the most visited château in France.“

Clearing the Gate House/Ticket Office we crossed over the tree lined road that leads to the estate and into the nursery gardens that parallel that road. Here plants and herbs are grown to supply the more formal garden plan fronting the entrance of the château. This is an example of the cinquecento Italian renaissance style, adapted to French conditions. Diane de Poitiers, Henri II's mistress, made a rectangular garden which is protected from floods and intruders by a moat and ramparts.

The Château de Chenonceau is a French château spanning the River Cher, near the small village of Chenonceaux in the Indre-et-Loire département of the Loire Valley in France. It is one of the best-known châteaux of the Loire valley.

The estate of Chenonceau is first mentioned in writing in the 11th century. The current château was built in 1514–1522 on the foundations of an old mill and was later extended to span the river. The bridge over the river was built (1556-1559) to designs by the French Renaissance architect Philibert de l'Orme, and the gallery on the bridge, built from 1570– 1576 to designs by Jean Bullant.

10 José-Emilio Terry, a Cuban millionaire, acquired Chenonceau from Madame Pelouze in 1891. Terry sold it in 1896 to a family member, Francisco Terry.[15] In 1913, the château was acquired by Henri Menier, a member of the Menier family, famous for their chocolates, who still own it to this day.

During World War I Gaston Menier set up the gallery to be used as a hospital ward.[15] During the Second World War the château was bombed by the Germans in June 1940.[18] It was also a means of escaping from the Nazi occupied zone on one side of the River Cher to the "free" zone on the opposite bank.[15] Occupied by the Germans, the château was bombed by the Allies on 7 June 1944, when the chapel was hit and its windows destroyed.[19]

In 1951, the Menier family entrusted the château's restoration to Bernard Voisin, who brought the dilapidated structure and the gardens (ravaged in the Cher River flood in 1940) back to a reflection of its former glory.

Entering the château we bypassed the keep, or tower, of Marques and we noted above the main entrance a salamander, the emblem of François I, is sculpted above the main door with the inscription “François, by the grace of God, King of France and Claude, Queen of the French.” On the left is the coat-of-arms of Thomas Bohier and on the right are the coat-of-arms of Katherine Briconnet.

11 We entered the apartments of Francois I and Catherine de Medici'. There are “three 15th century French credence tables and a 16th century Italian cabinet, exceptional with its mother-of-pearl and fountain-pen engraved ivory incrustations” a wedding present to François II and Mary Stuart. At the right of the chimney is “The Three Graces” by Van Loo which represents the “Mesdemoiselles from Nesle. Three sisters, successive favourites of King Louis XV: Madame di Châteauroux, Vintimille, Mailly.”

It is also known as “Château de Femmes” or “the castle of six ladies” for the succession of powerful French noblewomen of Chenonceau, who each made an impact on the castle. I was also intrigued to learn the Francois I and Catherine de Medici' son, François II and Mary Stuart (Mary, Queen of Scotts) were married in the castle.

“The kitchens are located in the huge bases which form the first two piers sitting on the bed of the Cher.” There is a large rotisserie in the kitchen with an “ingenious clockwork mechanism” that “used a heavy weight suspended over the river to drive the mechanism.” The pantry is a low room; the ribs of two cross vaults intersect. “Its 16th century chimney is the château’s largest, next to the bread oven. The pantry serves both the Dining Room reserved for château staff, the Butchery in which you can still see the hooks for handing game and the blocks for cutting it up, and finally the Larder.” A bridge leading to the kitchen also served the pantry by crossing from one pier to another. Boats with supplies could deliver foodstuffs to the château.

"In 1913, the château was acquired by Henri Menier, a member of the Menier family, famous for their chocolates, who still own it to this day.

12 During World War I Gaston Menier set up the gallery to be used as a hospital ward. During the Second World War the château was bombed by the Germans in June 1940. It was also a means of escaping from the Nazi occupied zone on one side of the River Cher to the "free" zone on the opposite bank. Occupied by the Germans, the château was bombed by the Allies on 7 June 1944, when the chapel was hit and its windows destroyed."

18 kilometers (11 mi) from Château de Chenonceau and on the Loire River, is Amboise. The city is famous for the Clos Lucé manor house where Leonardo da Vinci lived at the invitation of King Francis I of France. The king's Château d'Amboise dominates the town and is located just 500 m away. The narrow streets contain some good examples of timbered housing. And we walked through the streets admiring the buildings.

The tomb of Leonardo da Vinci is prominent on the ridge which also holds Château d'Amboise. We walked through the streets on the lower level and ultimately found a restaurant just opening for lunch.

La Réserve had just opened and we, with one other couple from our Viking cruise, were the first patrons of the day. We looked at the menu and then discovered a menu board on the wall written in English.

We selected Terrine de foies de volaille maisson (Homemade chicken liver terrine); Salade paysanne (salade, tomates, oignons et bacon), Peasant Salad (salad, tomato, onions and bacon); and la plate de jour La grillade de boeuf frites maison (The plate of day grilled beef, home fries). They served a bottle of Touraine-Amboise, a local appellation, a blend of Gamay and Cabernet Sauvignon. It was a delightful lunch. The pâte on French bread was a perfect beginning and the steak frites were the best we had in France this trip. It was just what we needed.

We returned to Tours by mid-afternoon and after returning to our room to drop off our day packs we set

13 out to explore our neighborhood and stretch our legs to reach our steps goal for the day. We walked four miles and then returned to our hotel. Because we had such a nice lunch we decided to enjoy a few snacks in our room while setting up our luggage for tomorrow's departure.

Saturday, June 10

After breakfast we checked out of the hotel before beginning our scenic ride to . This would be a 350 km / 217 mi drive interrupted by a tour of Poitiers along the way. This picturesque medieval city, once the capital of the Vienne region, features well-preserved Romanesque architecture. Here also is the Baptistère Saint-Jean (Baptistery of St. John), a Roman Catholic church. It is reputed to be the oldest existing Christian building in the West and one of the most prominent examples of Merovingian architecture.

We stopped at the Palace of Justice and admired the statue of Jeanne d'Arc. Before she could be employed in military operations she was sent to Poitiers to be examined by a numerous committee of learned bishops and doctors. It was conducted under the direction of the Archbishop of Reims during the months of March and April, 1429, and extended over three weeks. The examination was of the most searching and formal character. It is regrettable in the extreme that the minutes of the proceedings, to which Jeanne frequently appealed later on at her trial, have altogether perished. All that we know is that her ardent faith, simplicity, and honesty made a favorable impression. The theologians found nothing heretical in her claims to supernatural guidance, and, without pronouncing upon the reality of her mission, they thought that she might be safely employed and further tested.

The Palace of Justice in Poitiers began its life as the seat of the Counts of Poitou and Dukes of Aquitaine in the tenth through twelfth centuries.

The former Merovingian kingdom of Aquitaine was re-established by Charlemagne for his son Louis the Pious; in the 9th century, a palace was constructed or reconstructed for him, one among many, above a Roman wall dated to the late 3rd century, at the highest spot of the town. Louis stayed there many times as a king and then returned to the palace after becoming, in 839 and 840. The palatium was specifically called a palace in the reign of Charles the Bald. After the disintegration of the Carolingian realm, the palace became the seat of the Counts of Poitiers. The first palace of Poitiers was completely destroyed by a fire in 1018.

The palace was completely rebuilt, straddling the wall, by the Count-Dukes of Aquitaine, then at the pinnacle of their power. In 1104, Count William IX added a dungeon on the town side. It is known as the tour Maubergeon, after his mistress Amauberge ("the Dangerous"), wife of Vicomte Aimery de Châtellerault and grandmother of Eleanor of Aquitaine. The

14 rectangular keep is reinforced with four smaller square towers projecting from each corner; it was greatly damaged when the southern portion of the palace was set ablaze by Henry of Grosmont in 1346.

Between 1191 and 1204, Eleanor (Alienor) fitted up a dining hall, the Salle des Pas Perdus, the "hall of lost footsteps", where a footfall was silenced by the vastness of its space — 50 meters in length, 17 meters in width, perhaps the largest in contemporary Europe .

We took advantage to stop in Poitiers for a brief tour of this picturesque medieval city, once the capital of the Vienne region, which features well-preserved Romanesque architecture and the Baptistery of St. John, thought to be the oldest Christian church in France. And taking some free time to look around a bit, we then had time to have lunch at Bistro Régent.

We decided to share Coeur de steak avec des frites (Heart of rumpsteak with chips) and Filet de saumon frais grignoté (snacked fresh salmon filet) with a carafe of a local white wine, Pessac Léognan. After lunch we continued on to Bordeaux to meet the Viking Forseti.

As we drove Sylvie informed us that Bordeaux's good fortune began in the 12th century when Duchess Eleanor of Aquitaine married Count Henri Plantagenêt, who soon became King Henry II of England. This city near the mouth of the Garonne flourished, largely due to its wine trade, and was eventually incorporated into the Kingdom of France. The 18th century was another Golden Age for Bordeaux; many of the elegant buildings in the downtown area date back to this era. Today, honored as a City of Art and History, Bordeaux is a "Little Paris" of beautiful boulevards, Gothic and baroque churches and lovely parks and gardens.

Bordeaux is a port city on the Garonne River in the Gironde department in southwestern France.

Bordeaux is the world's major wine industry capital. It is home to the world's main wine fair, Vinexpo, and the wine economy in the metro area takes in 14.5 billion euros each year. has been produced in the region since the 8th century. The historic part of the city is on the UNESCO World Heritage List as "an outstanding urban and architectural ensemble" of the 18th century. After Paris, Bordeaux has the highest number of preserved historical buildings of any city in France.

In historical times, around 300 BC it was the settlement of a Celtic tribe, the Bituriges Vivisci, who named the town Burdigala, probably of Aquitanian origin. The name Bourde is still the name of a river south of the city.

The city fell under Roman rule around 60 BC, its importance lying in the commerce of tin and lead towards Rome. Later it became capital of Roman Aquitaine, flourishing especially during the Severan dynasty (3rd century). In 276 it was sacked by the Vandals. Further ravage was brought by the same Vandals in 409, the Visigoths in 414 and the Franks in 498, beginning a period of obscurity for the city.

From the 12th to the 15th century, Bordeaux regained importance following the marriage of Duchess Eléonore of Aquitaine with the French-speaking Count Henri Plantagenet, born in Le Mans, who became, within months of their wedding, King Henry II of England. The city flourished, primarily due to the wine trade, and the cathedral of St. André was built. It was also the capital of an independent state under Edward, the Black Prince (1362–1372), but in the end, after the Battle of Castillon (1453), it was annexed by France which extended its territory. The Château Trompette (Trumpet Castle) and the Fort du Hâ, built by

15 Charles VII of France, were the symbols of the new domination, which however deprived the city of its wealth by halting the wine commerce with England.

The 18th century was the golden age of Bordeaux. Many downtown buildings (about 5,000), including those on the quays, are from this period. Victor Hugo found the town so beautiful he once said: "Take Versailles, add Antwerp, and you have Bordeaux". Baron Haussmann, a long-time prefect of Bordeaux, used Bordeaux's 18th-century large-scale rebuilding as a model when he was asked by Emperor Napoleon III to transform a then still quasi-medieval Paris into a "modern" capital that would make France proud.

In 1814, towards the end of the Peninsula war, the Duke of Wellington sent William Beresford with two divisions, who seized Bordeaux without much resistance on 12 March. Bordeaux was largely anti-Bonapartist and had a majority that supported the Bourbons, so the British troops were treated as liberators.

In 1870, at the beginning of the Franco-Prussian war against Prussia, the French government temporary relocated to Bordeaux from Paris. This happened again during the First World War and again very briefly during the Second World War, when it became clear that Paris would soon fall into German hands. However, on the last of these occasions the French capital was soon moved again to Vichy. In May and June 1940, Bordeaux was the site of the life-saving actions of the Portuguese consul-general, Aristides de Sousa Mendes, who illegally granted thousands of Portuguese visas, which were needed to pass the Spanish border, to refugees fleeing the German Occupation.

From 1940 to 1943, the Italian Royal Navy ( Italiana) established BETASOM, a base at Bordeaux. Italian participated in the from this base, which was also a major base for German U-boats as headquarters of 12th U-boat Flotilla. The massive, reinforced concrete U-boat pens have proved impractical to demolish and are now partly used as a cultural center for exhibitions.

We arrived at the ship at four o'clock and checked in at the registration desk. The process went quickly

16 and we at Stateroom 0208. Our room steward, Natalia, welcomed us as we deposited our day packs on the desk and went out to explore the ship.

The Viking Forseti, named for the Norse god of Justice, is typed as a River Cruiser/Canal Boat and was built in 2013. It holds 190 passengers through 4 decks. Major common areas are the restaurant, Aquavit Terrace, a lounge, and Sun deck with 360-degree views and shaded sitting area; organic herb garden and solar panels; putting green, and walking track . This is complemented with a few library shelves for book loans, and another section for a gift shop. After our brief review we returned to our stateroom to find our luggage had been deposited and we began to set up our room.

We had a welcome briefing and safety instructions at 18:30. Filiz Temur (Belgium), is our Program Director and she introduced Captain Michael Chazot (France). Sidiropoulos Dimitris (Greece) is the Hotel Manager. After this opening Filiz briefed concerning what was planned for the remainder of the evening and tomorrow. She then turned the microphone over to César Mata, the Executive Chef, who told us what he had prepared for this evening's dinner and suggested the wine paring to accompany the menu. This type briefing and Chef César's comments would take place each afternoon.

After we completed our meal we had time to continue unpacking before we joined a group of fellow passengers for the Bordeaux Evening Walk. This 2.5 hour tour was broken into groups and Jaime was our guide for the adventure.

As we walked Jaime pointed out Bordeaux’s stunning architecture, sprawling squares and sculpted fountains by night. He emphasized that the capital of the Aquitaine province is a major wine capital, the largest urban UNESCO World Heritage Site in the world. Walking along the quayside he spoke of the elegant town houses from the city’s prosperous mercantile days.

We continued past Place de la Bourse, where the world’s largest reflecting pool glitters in the evening light, magically mirroring stately buildings. People were walking barefoot across the pool and children were lying down and splashing in the shallow water. I would describe this pool as a marble park with a spray of water about an inch thick and the amount of people enjoying it was impressive.

The city’s lights cast a glow on the Three Graces Fountain and the Monument des Girondins. In the Place des Chartrons, a charming square with a small village feel. Jaime led us to the streetcar for a ride past Fenwick House, home of the first American ambassador to France, and the 1680 Flemish House. By then we were back to our ship for the rest of the evening.

17 Sunday, June 11

We were on bus 1C this morning. There are four buses doing the tour of Bordeaux so their starting points are different but we will cove the same places. Our guide is Joanna, who introduced herself as French born but she spent some time in the U.S “which is why I sound like an American.” And she did.

We drove along the river and then crossed over to Base sous-marine. This is where the German and Italian submarine forces built a huge bunker complex to fight the Battle of the Atlantic in World War II. Called BETASOM (Italian acronym of Bordeaux Sommergibile) was a submarine base established at Bordeaux, France by the Italian Regia Marina Italiana during World War II. From this base, Italian submarines participated in the Battle of the Atlantic from 1940 to 1943 as part of the Axis anti-shipping campaign against the Allies.

Axis naval co-operation started after the signing of the in June 1939 with meetings in Friedrichshafen, Germany, and an agreement to exchange technical information. After the Italian entry into the war and the Fall of France, the Italian Navy established a submarine base at Bordeaux, which was within the German occupation zone. The Italians were allocated a sector of the Atlantic south of Lisbon to patrol. The base was opened in August 1940, and in 1941 the captured French passenger ship De Grasse was used a before being returned to the Vichy French Government in June 1942. Admiral Angelo Parona commanded the submarines at BETASOM under the control of Konteradmiral (Rear Admiral) Karl Dönitz. Dönitz was the "Commander of the Submarines" (Befehlshaber der Unterseeboote) for Nazi Germany's . About 1,600 men were based at BETASOM

The pens and bunkers are so substantial it is not practical or cost effective to remove them. "Today the berths are hauntingly empty shells, occasionally used by amateur yachtsmen when working on their boats. Sections of the building are used for cultural events (drama, exhibitions and concerts) but it seems that the place will never shake off the cumbersome weight of its war-time legacy."

We passed by Cité du Vin, a museum as well as a place of exhibitions, shows, movie projections and academic seminars on the theme of wine. In January 2011, the cost of the construction had been estimated at 63 million euros (excluding taxes). But at the end of 2014, as the construction was in progress, the cost of the structure has been re-evaluated to reach 81.1 million euros (excluding taxes).

18 We admired the new Jacques Chaban-Delmas Lift Bridge over the Garonne River. The bridge spans approximately 383 feet long, an out-to-out width of approximately 141 feet, and a design lift height of 164 feet. It was dedicated in March, 2013. There a lift cables with counter weights which raise the bridge. We later were told it takes 11 minutes to raise or lower the bridge with little noise.

Continuing our drive we passed the Place de la Bourse, as we had on our walk last evening, one of the most recognizable sights of Bordeaux. Its architect was Ange- Jacques Gabriel. It was built from 1730 to 1775. Its architect was Ange-Jacques Gabriel. It was built from 1730 to 1775. In the original plan, there was a statue of King Louis XV. However, the statue was destroyed during the French Revolution. After the destruction of the statue, a Corinthian column- fountain was built on the square. Finally, in 1869 "Three Graces" was installed in the same location.

We continued on to The Place des Quinconces, one of the largest city squares in Europe (approximately 31 acres or 12.6 hectares). It was laid out in 1820 on the site of Château Trompette and was intended to prevent rebellion against the city. Its guns were turned towards the center. Its current shape (lengthened rectangle rounded off with a semicircle) was adopted in 1816.

As Joanna explained all of these sites in the brief two hours we had before returning to our ship I was very mindful that there was much to see and learn in Bordeaux and this very interesting, historical city would be well worth a return for more explanation. But for now it was time to return to the ship.

After lunch the Forseti set sail upstream to Cadillac. In French the pronunciation of the name replaces the double “ll” with a “y” and disguises the English pronunciation. However, there is a connection to our Cadillac automobile.

Cadillac is a commune in the Gironde department in Nouvelle-Aquitaine, was founded in 1280 to serve as a river port.

Cadillac is directly across the Garonne river from , and is known for producing sweet dessert under the Cadillac AOC designation.

The name of the commune was adopted by Antoine Laumet de La Mothe, sieur de Cadillac, the founder of Detroit and Governor of Louisiana, on his arrival to what is now the United States. The Cadillac division of General Motors, and Cadillac, Michigan are named after him.

19 We closed out our evening with “Bordeaux Wine Tasting: A Journey through Taste. Join our special guest wine educator Diana in the Lounge for a basic wine tasting of the different Bordeaux varieties.” (Viking Daily)

Monday, June 12

Jaime would again be our guide for our trip to Cadillac this morning. Our bus set out for Château d'Arche for our first stop.

Our Viking tour was broken into groups which staged through different sections. Our group began in the vineyard where we observed the age of sections of the vineyard and the effect of minor changes in landscape on the output. Our guide also explained the effect of changes of the water table. We were told about the special soil and climate conditions which make this small area for growing the grapes needed to make Sauternes. We also were instructed how the Botrytis mold is the special ingredient needed. We were shown how the wine is made and the selection of French oak barrels in which the wine is matured.

At our final station we met our local guide, Anna, a young Scottish woman, who presented samples to taste as she discussed the variations of each vintage produced by Château d'Arche. We visited when the grapes were nearly ripe and you could see the "" on some of them. We were fascinated to learn that “Thomas Jefferson himself, America’s third president, counted Sauternes among his favorite wines during his visits.”

Next, the port town of Cadillac was originally built as a fortified village whose sole purpose was to protect

20 Bordeaux from vessels coming downriver. Through time it tapped into the lively trade on the Garonne and grew into a successful merchant town. We walked through the sea gate and turned to walk through the narrow streets.

The center of the town had a tall arched market with a second floor making up the Hôtel de Ville. It is the first such city hall I have seen like this. Jaime said it still serves as a market each week.

Walking through the narrow streets we came upon Église Saint-Blaise et Saint-Martin It is a small Romanesque church of the twelfth century which has undergone few modifications. The building was listed under historic monuments 24 January 2011.

Château de Cadillac "was built in the city of the same name at the request of Jean-Louis de Nogaret de la Valette (1554-1642), made first Duke of Epernon. Archetype of the proud Gascon, this castle incarnates the omnipotence of this cadet of Gascony , become one of the cute King Henri III, called "Demi-Roi", and amassing honors and riches before dying in disgrace, after 88 years under the reign of Louis XIII, to whom he provided guards to found the first company of musketeers in 1622."

Cadillac castle embodies the omnipotence of Jean-Louis de Nogaret de la Valette, the favorite of King Henri III and first Duke of Epernon.

Built from 1599 onward, this is one of the first examples of French-style architecture. The main part of the building. between the courtyard and garden is laid out symmetrically around the central pavilion housing the grand staircase which serves the royal and ducal apartments.

The somewhat austere external appearance contrasts with the sumptuous interior reflecting the luxurious, monumental fireplaces. Painted ceilings and tapestries embellish the spacious state rooms. Although the Château was turned into a women's prison in the 19th century. it nonetheless continues to be a fine illustration of the Duke of Epernon's motto: “he shines best in adversity”.

After the tour we took advantage of the time to proceed to what might have been a gatehouse to the Château de Cadillac but now serves as a library and gift shop. When finished, we rejoined our group to board the bus and return to the ship.

Tuesday, June 13

The Forseti was docked at the left bank of the Dordogne River where the Isle River joins it. As we

21 disembarked we met Maria, our guide, and we walked as a group across the stone bridge to Libourne. This stone bridge has nine arches and was built between 1820 and 1824.

Once the group reassembled on the other side of the bridge Maria informed us that Libourne is a commune in the Gironde department in Nouvelle-Aquitaine. It is the wine-making capital of northern Gironde and lies near Saint-Émilion and Pomerol.

We walked to the main square and entered the open air market. It is lined with buildings dating as far back as the 16th century. This portion was mostly set with clothes, purses, electronics, tools, and even a furniture seat cover display. This butts up to a more permanent daily indoor market in the Place Abel Surchamp. Here is where one buys fruits, exotic vegetables, spices, herbs, cheese, fish, fresh meats and salamis, and the region’s notable duck foie gras.

We stayed in the group as Maria perused the market and pointed out where certain products might be found and where specialties were available. When we reached the Jeff de Bruges Chocolate Shop we admired the exquisite chocolate sculptures in the window. As we went closer we saw Feliz, our Program Director, come out of the shop with a basket of chocolate treats which she asked to share with us.

When released to our own time, Liz and I walked to the Libourne Town Hall, which is housed in a 15th- century building. It is also the Museum of Fine Arts of the city. When it was built in the 15th century, the building is already linked to the administration of the city since it houses the headquarters of the court. It includes a chapel of the convent of the Cordeliers, in which the jurats, the municipal councilors of the Middle Ages, took their oath.

Liz and I had opted to take the Home Hosted visit to Château

22 Siaurac for an exclusive insider’s tour and a delicious lunch. As we dismounted the bus we were met by Charlotte, another Scot, who would be our local guide through the estate. I surmised that working at French châteaus would be a fine way for Scotsmen to remain in the EU no matter the Brexit outcome.

We walked through the grounds first as another group proceeded to the cellar as their first tour. We had a magnificent view of the château as Charlotte explained ownership of the property dates all the way back to 1832 for the Guichard family. Château Siaurac could win an award for the most beautiful estate in the Lalande de Pomerol appellation, with its stunning Château and manicured grounds, gardens and parkland, which were designed in 1850. Of particular pride was the large oak tree which was planted when the estate was founded and is now considered a national treasure. “The park is classified 'Jardin Remarquable', one of the eight in Gironde.”

Château Siaurac was most recently managed by Paul and Aline Goldschmidt. However, that all changed in March, 2014 when the Goldschmidt family sold a large percentage of their holdings to the owner of Château Latour, Francois Pinault and the Artemis group.

“The large, 36.5 hectare Château Siaurac vineyard is planted to 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec. The terroir is gravel and clay soils that comes from 2 adjoining parcels. Although the parcels are contiguous, they each have different terroirs. You have a bit more gravel in the parcel located in Neac and more clay in the vineyard in their other parcel. The vineyard of Château Siaurac is planted to a high, vine density of 7,100 vines per hectare. Since 2008, the vineyard has practiced only sustainable farming management.”

After we left the gardens we entered the estate and toured some of the rooms. The dining room was fully set with a full service for a family function. Centered above the table was a large, vintage Murano glass chandelier. We then entered the study to observe a decorative writing desk sided by tall bookshelves filled with leather bound volumes. The third room was a large parlor decorated with family portraits.

When we finished that portion of the tour we proceeded to the tasting room however the other group was still engaged there so we moved on to the cellar warehouse. We learned of the expense of French oak barrels and the short utility of this basic requirement. Additionally, we learned of the legal requirement for a vintage to be “bottled” on the estate and why the châteaus hire out mobile bottling plants rather than own on-site equipment.

23 But my most informative moment was when the cellar master was queried about future sales of the casks. He informed us that in the early spring the owners, the vintner, manager, and investors get together to taste the harvest. At that time, interested parties buy the output, as one would buy corn or wheat futures. In fact, all of the product in the cellar was already sold.

By now the tasting room was free and we were invited to sample three of the premium wines. We began with 2009 Château Siaurac, then 2009 Chêateau Vray Croix de Gay, and finished with 2012 Château Le Prieuré. Charlotte, our guide, and the cellar master spoke of the more common recognized tasting notes of each vintage, while still pointing out that each of us would experience our own values.

Both groups entered the dinning room for lunch. We were welcomed by the château manager who told us about the history and their progress “beginning with the 2016 vintage, the estate moved to using only 100% organic and biodynamic farming techniques.”

For lunch we enjoyed the early drinking wines, or second wines, in the same order that we tasted the "Great Wines". We began with 2014 Plaisir de Siaurac with our Poulet Foie Pâté (Chicken Liver Pâté) and Salade de marché des agriculteurs (farmers market salad). Next we were served 2012 L'Enchanteur de Vray Croy De Gay with Filet de bœuf aux carottes (beef tenderloin with carrots).

Everything was delicious and the dessert was spectacular. We were served Sorbet au basilic et framboises (basil sorbet and raspberries). I was a bit skeptical of the idea of a basil sorbet but it was absolutely scrumptious. The side of raspberries complemented the dessert and a serving of 2012 Délice du Prieuré provided a lovely finish to the meal. We were then invited into the garden for coffee and Madeleines.

Our last drive for the day would be a trip to Saint-Émilion.

Saint-Émilion's history goes back to prehistoric times and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with fascinating Romanesque churches and ruins stretching all along steep and narrow streets.

The Romans planted vineyards in what was to become Saint-Émilion as early as the 2nd century. In the 4th century, the Latin poet Ausonius lauded the fruit of the bountiful vine.

The legend tells us about a monk from Brittany who fled from Vannes, his hometown, to seek refuge in one of the natural caves in a place called Ascum bas (former name of the village) in the 8th century.

24 His name was Emilion. Living the life of a hermit he accomplished a few miracles and rapidly became famous in the region and even far beyond its border s. Soon he had many disciples and with their help he evangelized that place and made it become a great religious center. Even after his death his followers carried on his legacy and even called the town after him: Saint-Emilion.

Our bus parked near the Palace of the Cardinal and Maria informed us the ruins of the facade that are still remaining today reminds us that this beautiful palace was built from the 12h century on. “The Cardinal” was Gaillard de la Mothe, nephew of the Archbishop of Bordeaux, Bertrand de Goth who became the famous Pope Clement V at the beginning of the 14th century.

Maria alerted us that there would be a bit of walking and, if one wished, one could descend underground on the guided tour that will show the catacombs which were used for Christian burials from the 8th to the 10th century. We climbed to the monolithic church carved out of the rock (the largest of its kind in Europe).

From here we could see the ancient tower where the Jurade de Saint- Émilion, the appellation's vinous brotherhood, can trace its roots back to a royal charter issued in 1199 by John Lackland, King of England. This granted economic, political, and legal rights to the jurats, or aldermen, of Saint- Émilion. These local notables and magistrates were empowered with the town's general administration.

We relaxed near monolithic church and later, as we returned to the bus, we saw a sign outside of a bank which listed a dozen premium wines vintages from the area. Next to the year and the vintage was the current price of a bottle. One listed a 2002 bottle for 3,999 €! “They should have had the courage to round it up and just say 4,000€,” said Maria.

Wednesday, June 14

Feliz, our Program Director, led our tour of Bourg this morning. As we walked about this split level town she said Bourg is a commune in Nouvelle-Aquitaine. “Here we will see a Gallo-Roman fountain, facades from 17th, 18th, 19th century, a monastery and parks, a dovecote, underground tunnel linking the port to the upper town, and a public wash house built in 1828 - it still flows today. There also is a museum which takes you under the castle to visit the citadel guard rooms and oil tanks dating from the Second World War.

Bourg, is a hidden gem on the right bank of the Dordogne River, in the heart of the wine

25 appellation of Côtes de Bourg, in the Gironde department. It is an ancient commune perched atop a quiet secret, and seems largely to have been forgotten by the crowds.

Bourg was created in the fourth century by the Paulin family. At the beginning of the 5th century, the Visigoths invaded Aquitaine, and settled very strongly in Bourg. It was the era of great invasions: during the next four centuries, this region was ravaged successively by the Merovingian Franks, the Gascons, the Saracens, the Carolingian Franks and the Normans.

Bourg held a prominent position at the confluences of the Dordogne and Garonne Rivers, inside its own fortified citadel, up until late 16th century. Where nowadays it sits discretely among three prominent UNESCO Heritage sites: Blaye, Saint Emilion and Bordeaux. This tiny village once named Bourg-sur-Gironde, built in Roman times, has a tumultuous 2000-year-old history. Bourg was invaded by the Visigoths, ravaged by the Normans, fortified by the English, visited by four kings and hosted more royalty than anyone could have ever expected.

Moreover, in times of conflict, war, struggle and upheavals for control, Bourg continually protected the region for more than three centuries. There is scant history recorded about demure Bourg, but in recent history, it is highly praised for a leading role in World War II. Using the strategic location along the waterways to protect one of the most precious wartime resources – guarding a fuel storage depot in south-western France.

You’ll find the fairytale-esque upper village of Bourg atop the King’s Stairway – 500 steps winding upward from Port de Mer. Bourg sits majestically above the Dordogne River. Now within the chateau walls of what was once the Citadel of Bourg. There is a history museum, pretty gardens and breath taking views.

Making our way up from the river we passed the communal wash house and then entered the upper level through the sea gate to the square. We then walked to an path overlooking the river and a path to the tunnel entrance between the port and the castle. We continued walking past the St Géronce church of Bourg and as we came to the side a man stepped out of a bakery van and presented Feliz a box of “Bourg figs” which she passed out to each of us.

“These are La Figue du Roy. Legend has that the young king, Louis XIV, tasted a fig in a garden of Bourg. The fig was immediately held sacred and turned into a confectionery. Now these candied fruit are wrapped in marzipan, and sprinkled with fig liquor.”

26 Before we began open time Feliz suggested we might check out the Carrefour Market. They carry soap from Marseilles which make lovely gifts. We bought La Petite Marseilles (Savon de Marseille) when we were there last year and agreed it would make a nice present so we walked there and bought several before walking through the rest of the shops near the church.

Returning to the ship, we had lunch on board. The ship cast off to sail to Blaye and we reached that at 1:30 pm and then went ashore to meet our guide.

The town of Blaye has been a port since ancient times, being responsible for the export of produce such as grain and red wine. As the town is situated slightly higher on the east side of the estuary its strategic importance was quickly recognized by the Romans, and then later on during the wars against the English, who actually burned down the citadel in 1352.

Legend has it that Blaye is the final resting place of Count Roland of Blaye, hero of "Le Chanson de Roland.” This heroic poem was based on the Battle of Roncesvalles in 778 and is recognized as the oldest surviving major work of French literature. Unfortunately, the Basilique Saint-Romain, where Roland is believed to have been buried, was damaged during the Wars of Religion (1562-1598) and later completely destroyed during the building of the citadel.

Designed by Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban, 17th-century citadel was built between 1685 and 1689, it forms part of a military complex that was designed to protect Blaye, along with Fort Paté and Fort Médoc. ln 2008, the citadel and city walls were listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and today you can enjoy exploring the ramparts and taking in breathtaking views of the estuary and two forts in its midst.

Bruno was our Viking guide this afternoon. As we walked through a parking area between the ship and the citadel we saw many camping trailers set up to accommodate the many tourists who come here to visit the area.

Relating how the structure came about, our guide said, “Citadelle de Vauban is one of the finest examples of 17th century military architecture. Started in 1652 by Pagan, it was extended, strengthened and completed by Vauban between 1685 and 1689. It incorporated the ruins of an ancient Gothic château that contains the tomb of Charibert II, king of Aquitaine.

27 Designed to protect the port of Bordeaux, this complex seals off the Gironde at Blaye. On the right bank, it consists of a citadel comprising three successive fronts with orilloned bastions, a demi- lune and covered walkway, all of which are typical of Vauban's second system. On the Gironde side, a wall and batteries overlook a cliff that overhangs the river at a height of 45 meters. However, the range of artillery at the time was not capable of totally preventing ships from passing. Vauban therefore designed Fort Médoc and Fort Pâté which provided artillery cross-fire and the control of the Gironde.”

As we walked past the dry moat and through the gate Bruno informed us that the citadel did have a few people living on the site but mostly in a caretaker mode. We walked t hrough streets which had cafes, craft and souvenir shops, the Hôtel la Citadelle, restaurants, and the Museum of History and Art. He explained where one would find soldier and officer living quarters. We climbed to the Tour des Rondes, an observatory which offers a view across the town and over the Gironde estuary.

Returning to the ship, Liz and I went to the lounge to cool off and relax before the daily briefing. After the evening meal we again returned to the lounge to meet with Doug and Kathy. They had taken the optional excursion to a chateau to learn how cognac was made. Included in this trip was a session where they blended two bottles of Cognac. They enjoyed the day and the estate visit. And the two bottles of their own blend which were placed in wood boxes for them to pack in their luggage for the flight home.

We all stayed to participate in the evening entertainment, “Dance With A Chance.” We talked with the piano player between sets and joined in with the dancing.

Thursday, June 15

While we were enjoying breakfast Captain Chazot cast off and we sailed further downstream, passing islands and gentle slopes, arriving in Pauillac in the early afternoon. I was fascinated watching fishing shacks (?) on stilts to accommodate the estuary tides. More than a few of them looked well worn and wobbly and I am not sure I would fish off the deck of these structures.

28 While we cruised we had a pre-departure briefing where we learned when our group would set luggage in the corridor and when we would meet our transfer to the airport on Saturday morning. Then, after lunch, we docked at the Pauillac’s marina and the Plaza Lafayette, where the Marquis de Lafayette set sail to the New World. Pauillac is a municipality in the Gironde department in Nouvelle-Aquitaine.

The United States Navy established a naval air station on 1 December 1917 to operate seaplanes during World War I. The base closed shortly after the First Armistice at Compiègne.

Near the center of town is a marina with moorings for about 150 boats. 2300m north of this is a floating platform where the very large Airbus A380 wings and fuselage sections are transferred from sea-going RORO ferries to barges. The parts are manufactured in Broughton, UK and Germany. The barges take them through Bordeaux to a dock at Langon and then by oversize road convoy to the assembly plant at Blagnac, Toulouse.

Many of the notable highlights for visitors to Pauillac are related to the chateaux and wine estates. Among the wine estates in the vicinity are Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, Chateau Latour and Chateau Mouton Rothschild, and many others where you are also able to enjoy tasting the local wines and visiting the chateaux.

Everyone was taking the tour of Pauillac, the undisputed capital of the Médoc wine region. The

29 Margaux appellation offered the opportunity to tour the cellars and enjoy wine tastings, learning about the distinct qualities of Margaux’s Merlots and cabernet francs. This meant we would board four buses and would start in different areas and then rejoin the group for a ship-hosted dinner at Château Kirwan.

As we drove our guide discussed the varietals and the percentages grown in the appellation. We learned that Pauillac is home to Châteaux Lafite Rothschild, Latour and Mouton Rothschild, among others. We did not have the opportunity (we were not invited) to visit these premium estates but we could wave to them from a distance...and even take pictures. They were beautiful properties. I didn't really expect to visit these places. Each of these châteaux are exclusive, high dollar operations and would not host tour groups.

Each of the four Viking buses would enter a different château for their wine tasting. Our visit went to Château Giscours.

Château Giscours is a winery in the Margaux appellation of the Bordeaux region of France, in the commune of Labarde.

The first written reference to the domain of Giscours, a deed confirming the sale of the estate, dates from 1330 and refers to a fortified keep. Records of Giscours' vineyards go back to 1552 when Seigneur de la Bastide sold it to Pierre de l'Horme. Prior to the French Revolution Giscours belonged to the Saint-Simon family before it was confiscated, and then bought by two Americans in 1793, John Gray and Jonathan Davis of Boston.

From an estate of nearly 400 hectares, the Giscours planted vineyard area extends 80 hectares spread out over several plots. The composition of grape varieties is 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot and the remainder Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.

We assembled in the wing where we would be tasting and listened to a briefing concerning the estate, the wines produced, and the production of each vineyard. Then we moved to the cellar wing where we reinforced what we had learned about barrel making, cask storage, and procedures provided by temporary, on-site bottling firms. Then we returned to taste several of the wines.

Our first tasting was Le Rosé de Giscours Bordeaux Rosé: “This Rosé is produced from Cabernet Sauvignon from the freshest terroirs.” Next we enjoyed La Sirène de Giscours Margaux “This second wine of Château Giscours comes from the selection of our youngest vines.” Our final selection was Château Duthil Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeois.

When we left we drove to Château Kirwan where the four buses grouped and off-loaded at the dining

30 room. The Viking staff, Chef César Mata and his team, as well as the maître d'hôtel and the waitstaff, were set up for our special dinner away from the Viking Forseti.

We were welcomed by the owner of this 99 acre estate who asked us to join her in the celebration of our visit. She noted that was one of the few Medoc properties that Thomas Jefferson, the Ambassador to France and the future third President of the United States visited on his Bordeaux wine tasting trip. “We know this based on the personal records and diaries of Thomas Jefferson, written in 1780.” Forseti Hotel Director Sidiropoulos Dimitris and Chef César also spoke and described this special event.

As the waiters were serving Tourin à l'ail Bordelais (traditional Bordeaux sweet onion & garlic soup in puff pastry) they poured Signatures 2015 Semillon Sauvignon. Our next serving consisted of Salade Des Vendanges (Seasonal greens with harvest grapes, pine nuts, cured duck breast, duck confit, sour cream dressing).

The entrée was Filet Mignon De Veau, Sauce Champignons, Gambas À La Provencale (veal tenderloin with mushroom sauce, shrimp Provencale, steamed asparagus, baby carrots, potato gratin). This was accompanied by Les Charmes de Kirwan 2012.

The dessert offering was Viennetta De Chocolat Aux Figues À La Sauce De Cassis, Creme Glacée Au Vin Rouge (chocolate Viennetta with figs in black currant sauce, red wine ice cream). This was accompanied with Château Kirwan 1995.

It was a lovely experience. We had a scrumptious dinner and an enjoyable evening away from the ship yet provided by the staff we had learned to appreciate for their talent and their service.

Friday, June 16

There were three optional excursions to chose from today. Arachon: Day on the Bay ; travel to the Atlantic coast and experience the daily life of the oyster farmer; Barrels and Wine : a wine tasting at Château Paloumey; and Le Marché des Capucins : a trip to the market with Executive Chef César Mata. Our choice was the third option.

We would return to Bordeaux by coach (54 km) to reach the market while the Forseti left Paulliac for the same destination, albeit at a slower pace. We would then rejoin the vessel for lunch and free time to explore the city.

31 The Capuchin market, "the belly of Bordeaux", takes its name from the Congregation of religious mendicants founded in 1525 in Spoleto, Italy, and attached to the Order of St. Francis. From their arrival the Capuchins, who owe their name to the brown robe terminated by a " Capuce ", a kind of pointed hood, endeavor to evangelize all this world and transform this neighborhood of debauches into gardens and terraces.

The first weekly market was held on October 2, 1749, under the impulse of the Marquis de Tourny, who undertook major work in the neighborhood. It was not until the Revolution that the market where cattle were sold once a week and on a daily basis, was imposed in 1797 on the Place des Capucins. Until 1857 the district became more and more food, and around the market of cattle craftsmen settled and the first families of commerce passed on from generation to generation the know-how of herbalists, shoemakers, roofers, Carpenters, blacksmiths, and drapers. It was in 1863 that the city of Bordeaux launched the project of covering halls.

Our Viking guide was Pauline, who would assist Chef César by serving as his assistant and the keeper of the funds to pay several merchants for the treats they would offer. We made a refreshment stop along the way and reached the market by ten o'clock.

Chef César conducts this tour on Fridays but he returns on Saturdays to do his own shopping for the galley. We began at one of the peripheral fish shops across from the market entranc, and vegetables. Here he identified the more common seafood found in the market. He also discussed the classification

32 of local oysters by size and described how to tell that fish were fresh or not.

We then moved into the market proper and moved through displays of breads, cheese, fruit, meat, seafood, and vegetables. One of the cheese mongers was prepared for us and had samples of five different cheeses to try with fresh baguettes. The vendor described each type and informed us of each area where they were made and whether they were of milk from cows, goat, or sheep.

Not surprisingly, since Chef César is Portuguese (he had once been the Executive Chef for the national soccer team), we stopped at a vendor who featured Portuguese products. Next to that vendor was a chocolatier who gave us milk chocolate pralines to taste.

When we finished walking through the market we returned to the center and discovered tables had been set out for the twenty or so in our group. White wine was poured, charcuterie platters were set out next to baskets of bread, oysters were also offered as were fruit and a tart for dessert. It was a nice experience. When finished, we reassembles at the bus for the twenty minute ride through mid-day traffic to reach the Forseti at the Bordeaux quay.

We had signed up for the Master Class at the Museum of Wine and Trade and Angela Martin arrived at the Reception Desk to escort the twenty people two blocks to the museum. Angela explained the mission of the museum:

• The explanation of the Bordeaux wine trade system: looking at the properties, the brokerage, the trading thanks to numerous artifacts, models and 2D realizations.

• The history of the great merchant families of the 18th and 19th centuries

33 portrayed through family documents and testimonies, and not forgetting the new traders developing in Bordeaux.

• The various classifications: from the prestigious classification by Napoleon III in 1855 (the classified growths of the Medoc and Sauternes), the Wine of Graves classified in 1953/1959, and the Wine classification of Saint-Emilion in 1959.

After discussing the appellations of Bordeaux we proceeded to taste five wines before checking out the museum exhibits and the shop. We then were presented with Master's Certificates: "This new ambassador promises to glorify, make known and remember the great qualities and the long tradition of Bordeaux wines." We did enjoy our visit to the Loire Valley and Bordeaux and we will make known and remember the long tradition. Our visit was successful.

Returning to the Forseti, we completed packing our luggage and went to the lounge for our final departure briefing. This was then followed by the Farewell Dinner.

Saturday, June 17

We set the alarm for 02:00 in order to have our showers and set the luggage in the corridor by 03:00. Then we went to the lounge where a continental breakfast was laid out. Just breads, fruit and yogurt plus the well enjoyed coffee. When we finished we returned to ur room to collect our day packs and then join twenty other early risers before heading out to the bus.

Each of us identified our luggage before it was loaded. While that was being accomplished two young women staggered up to the bus driver and asked if he had any orange juice they could have. They had already had too much “juice”, it was only 4:00 am.

We were met at the airport by two Viking representatives who walked us through the ticketing process and then on to our gate. I thought it would be prudent to check our two small carry-on bags so that we didn't have to drag them through Amsterdam Airport Schiphol. I must admit I was surprised by the charge of 85.00 € per piece.

At the airport we had passports screened by the ticket agents, passport control, a Delta agent who then directed us to another Delta agent who conducted an interview about our luggage handling, and once again at the aircraft. I don't know if this was routine or not.

The flight was pleasant and the Delta personnel were very accommodating. It made for a very good trip... but a long one. Since we woke up at Bordeaux at 02:00 (Seattle, 17:00 16 June) and we got back home at 16:00, it was a long day! We fought going to sleep before 19:00 but we were very tired.

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