108 FRANCE THE LIBOURNAIS AND FRONSADAIS

The right bank of the Dordogne River, known as THE GARAGISTE EFFECT the Libournais district, is red-wine country. In 1979, Jacques Thienpont, owner of Pomerol’s classy Vieux Château Certan, unintentionally created what would become the Dominated by the Merlot grape, the vineyards “vin de garagiste” craze, when he purchased a neighboring plot here produce deep-colored, silky- or velvety-rich of land and created a new wine called Le Pin. With a very low yield, 100 percent Merlot, and 100 percent new oak, the wines of classic quality in the St.-Émilion and decadently rich Le Pin directly challenged Pétrus, less than a mile Pomerol regions, in addition to wines of modest away. It was widely known that Thienpont considered Vieux Château Certan to be at least the equal of Pétrus, and he could quality, but excellent value and character, in the certainly claim it to be historically more famous, but Pétrus “satellite” appellations that surround them. regularly got much the higher price, which dented his pride. So Le Pin was born, and although he did not offer his fledgling wine at the same price as Pétrus, it soon trounced it on the auction IN THE MID-1950S, many Libournais wines were harsh, and market. In 1999, a case of 1982 Le Pin was trading at a massive even the best AOCs did not enjoy the reputation they do today. $19,000, while a case of 1982 Château Pétrus could be snapped Most growers believed that they were cultivating too much up for a “mere” $13,000. By 2003, the Pétrus had traded up to a Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec for their particular terroir and mind-boggling $26,000 and yet Le Pin sold for $44,000. decided that they should plant more vines of Cabernet Franc. A Unfortunately, Jacques Thienpont died in 1985, long before his few growers argued for the introduction of Merlot, which was little experiment yielded such crazy prices. By the late 1980s, allowed by the regulations, because it would give their wines the however, Le Pin’s extraordinary financial success had became so suppleness they desired. Even if they could have agreed on obvious to a number of vignerons in neighboring St.-Emilion that united action, changing the encépagement of an entire district they attempted to replicate it with small plots of land in their own would have been very a very long-term project, as well as being appellation: Jean-Luc Thunevin with Château de Valandraud (first extremely expensive. However, in 1956, frost devastated the vintage 1991), Gérard and Dominique Bécot with Château La vineyards, forcing the Libournais growers into action. With poor, Gomerie (first vintage 1995), Von Neippberg with Château La short crops inevitable for some years to come, prices soared, Mondotte (first vintage 1996), Francis Gaboriaud with Château enabling them to carry out the massive replanting which, L’Hermitage (first vintage 1997), Alain and Françoise Raynaud with ironically, they could not have afforded prior to the crisis. This Château Quinault l’Enclos (first vintage 1997), and Château devastation led to the wholesale cultivation of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, which established a completely different style THE LIBOURNAIS DISTRICT See also p63 of wines, providing the catalyst for the spectacular postwar This great red-wine area includes St.-Émilion, Pomerol, and their satellites. In success of St.-Émilion and Pomerol. the Libournais district, the Merlot grape reigns supreme, its succulent fruit essential to the local style.

St-Médard-de- n N89 D10 no N89 Guizières va Sa St-Emilion Da 49 y 89 e A D123 See also p111 D910 D674 Pa Pomerol 22 lais D137 D21 61 See also p120 Vérac Galgon St-Denis-de-Pile D22 D121 Fronsac D138 D121 Petit Palais G D246 67 Puynormand a 52 la Côtes-Cahon-Fronsac 81 D10 n I le L d s avie les Artigues D18 Fe uillant Lalande-de-Pomerol Villegouge D22 N89 82 Néac Lugon-et-Ile Lalande 54 Tayac du-Carney les Billaux Lussac D32 de Pomerol Montagne-St- 29 D17 D 75 Villefranche- Emilion ord de-Lonchat ogne D670 Néac D21 St-Georges- D122 76 101 110 D910 Pomerol D21E St-Emilion Montagne 57 Fronsac 73 Puisseguin Lussac-St-Emilion Izon St-Georges D9 D10 D242 LIBOURNE B Puisseguin- ar ba St-Philippe 109 St-Emilion nne d'Aiguille A89 D243 Bordeaux-Côtes- Parsac de-Francs

75 89 D243 D 15 Vayres 17 Côtes-de-Castillon 92 31 St-Emilio ire Lido N89 D670 Height above N89 Arveyres 13 sea level (metres) D21 s a St-Sulpice- st de-Faleyrens 12 Ge St-Magne 105 0 1 2 3 miles D19 Montcaret Génissac 8 Lamothe- St-Germain- 6 Montravel 0 2 4 km du-Puch ne D20 63 on od CASTILLON-LA- e an ir C o BATAILLE D9 D936 l e D11 u d D15 o S y ne e g t do s or E D Branne Dordogne Baron Ste-Terre D17 D936 D130 R 88 D936 om D en 19 do l 18 D D130 BORDEAUX - THE LIBOURNAIS AND FRONSADAIS 109

Teyssier with Le Dôme (first vintage 1998). But it was Le Pin’s image of the greatest St.-Émilion châteaux, but through the cellar, which is truly a garage under a battered farmhouse, that historical use of this famous name these areas won the right to inspired French wine writer Michel Bettane to coin the phrase attach the name of St.-Émilion to theirs. The tiny Sables area was “vins de garage.” It is interesting how this new breed of wines has later reclaimed by the St.-Émilion AOC, and in 1972 a new polarized critics into opposite camps, as if there is something appellation, Montagne-St.-Émilion, was created. This appellation, intrinsically right or wrong with producing wine on a small scale. which covered a large region, could be adopted by growers who Because that is all it is, and the garagistes are popping up in the had previously used either Parsac-St.-Émilion AOC or St.-Georges- Graves, the Médoc, and well beyond the borders of Bordeaux. St.-Émilion AOC, but the executive order that created Montagne- While some consumers (all wealthy) are happy to pay any price St.-Émilion AOC in 1972 did not disband either of these smaller demanded for these wines, others seem to take offense at the appellations. very mention of the word garagiste. Both positions are bizarre. So, a situation arose in which growers could choose between Besides, where do you draw the line between a vin de garage two very similar AOCs. In 1993, however, Parsac-St.-Émilion was and an honest lieu-dit wine? Oh dear Jacques and Michel: what finally disbanded, since it was noticed that virtually all the have you started? producers of Parsac-St.-Émilion were not using the original AOC but opting for Montagne-St.-Émilion AOC. Many growers in St.- THE SATELLITE APPELLATIONS OF ST.-ÉMILION Georges-St.-Émilion, however, were still using the original AND POMEROL appellation, and so disbanding this would not have been so The wines of Lussac, Montagne, Parsac, Puisseguin, Sables, and simple. All five combined St.-Émilion AOCs would in fact benefit St.-Georges were once sold as St.-Émilion, but in 1936 these outer from merging, since they all produce wines of essentially similar areas were given their own AOCs. This was done to protect the nature, under identical regulations.

THE GENERIC APPELLATIONS OF THE LIBOURNAIS AND FRONSADAIS

BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR CÔTES-CANON- CÔTES-DE-FRANCS AOC FRONSAC AOC See Bordeaux-Côtes-de-Francs AOC Fronsac AOC and Côtes-Canon-Fronsac AOC will no doubt be the next wines to be “discovered” by budget-minded Bordeaux BORDEAUX- drinkers. The best of these wines are Côtes- Canon-Fronsac AOC, sometimes called Canon- CÔTES-DE-FRANCS AOC Fronsac AOC. With lower yields and stricter This forgotten area’s vineyards are contiguous selection, these wines could equal all but the with those of Puisseguin-St.-Émilion and Lussac- best of St.-Émilion and Pomerol. St.-Émilion, and have a very similar clay- RED Full-bodied, deep-colored, rich, and limestone over limestone and iron-pan soil. The vigorous wines with dense fruit, fine spicy Bordeaux Supérieur version of these wines character, plenty of finesse, and good length. differs only in its higher alcohol level. gCabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, RED These are essentially robust, rustic, full- Malbec, Merlot bodied wines that are softened by their high k7–20 years Merlot content. gCabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot CÔTES-DE-CASTILLON AOC k5–10 years This is an attractive hilly area squeezed between gCabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, WHITE Little-seen dry, semisweet, and sweet St.-Émilion, the Dordogne River, and the Malbec, Merlot wines of clean, fruity character. Dordogne département. Its wine has long been k6–15 years gSauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Muscadelle appreciated for quality, consistency, and value. k5–10 years These wines used to be sold as Bordeaux and LALANDE-DE- Bordeaux Supérieur wine until the 1989 vintage, POMEROL AOC when Côtes-de-Castillon received its own AOC This good-value appellation covers the BORDEAUX-CÔTES-DE- status. communes of Lalande-de-Pomerol and Néac. No FRANCS LIQUOREUX AOC RED Firm, full-bodied, fine-colored wines with matter how good they are, even the best are dense fruit and finesse. but pale reflections of classic Pomerol. This style of Bordeaux-Côtes-de-Francs wine gCabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, RED Firm, meaty Merlots with lots of character must by law be naturally sweet and made from Carmenère, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot but without Pomerol’s texture and richness. overripe grapes that possess at least 223 grams k5–15 years of sugar per liter. The wines must have a gCabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, minimum level of 11.5 percent alcohol and 27 Malbec, Merlot grams of residual sugar per liter. k7–20 years WHITE Rich, genuinely liquoreux wines; only FRONSAC AOC tiny amounts are made. This generic appellation covers the communes LUSSAC-ST.-ÉMILION AOC gSauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Muscadelle of La Rivière, St.-Germain-la-Rivière, St.-Aignan, A single-commune appellation 5.5 miles (9 Saillans, St.-Michel-de-Fronsac, Galgon, and k5–15 years kilometers) northeast of St.-Émilion. Fronsac. RED The wines produced on the small gravelly RED These full-bodied, well-colored wines have plateau to the west of this commune are the good chunky fruit and a fulsome, chocolaty lightest, but have the most finesse. Those CANON-FRONSAC AOC character. Not quite the spice or finesse of produced on the cold, clayey lands to the north See Côtes-Canon-Fronsac AOC Côtes-Canon-Fronsac, but splendid value. are robust and earthy, while those from the 110 FRANCE

PUISSEGUIN-ST.-ÉMILION AOC

RED Even in the most basic St.-Émilions the ripe, spicy-juiciness of the Merlot grape should be supported by the firmness and finesse of the clay-limestone in the southeast have the best Cabernet Franc. The great châteaux achieve this balance of color, richness, and finesse. superbly: they are full, rich, and concentrated, gCabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, chocolaty and fruitcakey. Carmenère, Malbec, Merlot This commune has a clay-limestone topsoil over gCabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, k5–12 years a stony subsoil and the wines it produces tend Carmenère, Malbec, Merlot to be more rustic than those of the Montagne- k6–12 years (modest growths); MONTAGNE- St.-Émilion AOC. 12–35 years (great growths) ST.-ÉMILION AOC RED These are rich and robust wines with a This appellation includes St.-Georges- deep flavor and lots of fruit and color, but they St-Émilion, a former commune that is today are usually lacking in finesse. ST.-GEORGES- part of Montagne-St.-Émilion. St.-Georges-St.- gCabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, ST.-ÉMILION AOC Émilion AOC and Montagne-St.-Émilion AOC Carmenère, Malbec, Merlot Along with the Montagne region of are the best of all the appellations that k5–10 years Montagne-St-Émilion, this is the best parish append “St.-Émilion” to their names. of the outer areas. RED Full, rich, and intensely flavored wines RED These are deep-colored, plummy wines that mature well. ST.-ÉMILION AOC with juicy, spicy fruit, and good supporting gCabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, These wines must have a minimum of tannic structure. Malbec, Merlot 10.5 percent alcohol, but in years when gCabernet Franc, k5–15 years chaptalization (the addition of sugar to grape Cabernet Sauvignon, NÉAC AOC juice to increase alcohol content) is allowed, Malbec, Merlot there is also a maximum level of 13 percent. k5–15 years This appellation has not been employed since the proprietors have been allowed to use the Lalande-de-Pomerol appellation. See Lalande-de-Pomerol AOC. POMEROL AOC

The basic wines of Pomerol fetch higher prices than those of any other Bordeaux appellation. The average Merlot content of a typical Pomerol is around 80 percent. RED It is often said that these are the most velvety-rich of the world’s classic wines, but they also have the firm tannin structure that is necessary for successful long-term maturation and development. The finest also have surprisingly deep color, masses of spicy-oak complexity, and great finesse. gCabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot SATELLITE APPELLATIONS IN THE ST.-EMILION AREA k5–10 years (modest growths); It would make sound commercial sense if all the St.-Émilion satellites (Lussac-St.-Émilion, Puisseguin-St.- 10–30 years (great growths) Émilion, and St.0-Georges-St. Émilion) were combined under the Montagne St.-Émilion appellation. FRANCE 111 SAINT-ÉMILION

The Romans were the first to cultivate the vine in velvet: the quality is similar, but the texture is not—although, of course, we must be humble about categorizing such complex St.-Émilion, a small area that has exported its entities as wine areas. It could justifiably be argued that the graves wines to various parts of the world for over eight (gravelly terrain) that produces two of the very best St.-Émilions— hundred years. In the first half of the twentieth Châteaux Cheval-Blanc and Figeac—has more in common with Pomerol than with the rest of the appellation. century it lapsed into obscurity, but in the last forty years it has risen like a phoenix. ST.-ÉMILION AS WE KNOW IT is a phenomenon of the postwar era, but there are many reminders of this wine’s ancient past—from the famous Château Ausone, named after the Roman poet Ausonius, to the walled hilltop village of St.-Émilion itself, which has survived almost unchanged since the Middle Ages. In contrast, the Union des Producteurs, the largest single-appellation coopérative in France, is a graphic illustration of the best in modern, technologically sophisticated wine production. Today, there are over a thousand crus within 6 miles (10 kilometers) of the village of St.-Émilion that may use this appellation.

THE APPEAL OF ST.-ÉMILION WINES For those who find red wines too harsh or too bitter, St.-Émilion, with its elegance and finesse, is one of the easiest with which to make the transition from white to red. The difference between the wines of St.-Émilion and those of its satellites is comparable to the difference between silk and satin, whereas the difference between St.-Émilion and Pomerol is like the difference between silk and

A LARGE PRODUCTION

If you look at the map of the entire an appellation as small as St.-Émilion Bordeaux region (see p63) you will be produces more wine than all the amazed by how small this appellation famous appellations of the Médoc of a thousand châteaux really is. It is a combined—St.-Estèphe, Pauillac, St.- CHÂTEAU FIGEAC surprising but regular occurrence that Julien, and Margaux. Without doubt in a class of its own within Class B of premiers grands crus classés, Château Figeac has long fought to be classified with Ausone and Cheval Blanc.

Premier Grand Cru Classé (Class A) Maillet MONTAGNE POMEROL Premier Grand Cru Classé (Class B) Selected Grand Cru Classé Communal boundary D244 3 0 /4 mile

Ch. la Dominique 0 1km Château Cheval BlancCh. la Ch. Cheval Blanc B Tour du a r Pin Figeac b a Vachon n Ch. la Tour n Figeac ST-EMILION e Rui Ch. Figeac ssea u d Faure u Ta ill as le Cros Bellevue D243

Château Troplong Mondot Ch. Clos des Cadet Ch. Soutard Château la Tour-Figeac Jacobins Ch. Cadet-Piola ST- D122 Ch. CHRISTOPHE Château Canon Ch. Balestard- Ch. Beau- la-Tonnelle D243 Séjour-Bécot Clos Fourtet Ch. Trotte-Vieille Ch. l'Angélus Ch. Beauséjour- Ch. Canon Duffau- Lagarosse Ch. Cure-Bon ST-EMILION la Madeleine Ch. Ausone Ch. Magdelaine Ch. Troplong- ST- Mondot Ch. Fonplégade Ch. Belair LAURENT D670 Ch. Tertre-Daugay Château Ausone Ch. la Gaffelière Ch. l'Arrosée Ch. Pavie D245 CHÂTEAU AUSONE Ch. Canon- la-Gaffelière From its hilltop perch, this ancient château commands Château Fonplégade a spectacular view of the sweeping vineyards below. 112 FRANCE

THE CLASSIFICATION OF ST.-ÉMILION

St.-Émilion wines were first classified in 1958, with the intention grand cru (unclassified growths) and grand cru classé (classified that the classification be revised every 10 years according to the growths) because the difference is considerable. In St.-Émilion, performance of properties during the previous decade. Three grand cru merely indicates a minimum alcoholic strength 0.5% basic categories were established: premier grand cru classé, higher than that required by the basic St.-Émilion appellation, grand cru classé, and grand cru. Of the 12 châteaux that were and a slightly lower yield. Any producer may apply for a grand classified premiers grands crus classés, Ausone and Cheval-Blanc cru, and hundreds do so. It is not a classification, but merely an were placed in a superior subsection. The rest were listed adjunct to the appellation, and would be more accurately alphabetically, not qualitatively, as were the 64 grands crus conveyed as a new appellation called St.-Émilion Supérieur, since classés. The classification was revised in 1969, 1985 (some six the difference between grand cru and grand cru classé is akin to years late), and again in 1996—which brought the reclassification that between basic Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur. period back to that anticipated. Beware the distinction between

ST.-ÉMILION CLASSIFICATIONS OF 1958, 1969, 1985, AND 1996 Incorporating vineyard soil classification

PREMIER GRAND CRU CLASSÉ - Château la Carte 4 Soil: Ancient sand 77 Château la Tour du Pin Figeac CLASS A Soil: St.-Émilion plateau and 50 Château Haut-Sarpe 3 (Owner: Moueix) 1 Château Ausone ancient sand Soil: St.-Émilion and St.-Christophe Soil: Ancient sand and graves Soil: Côte and St.-Émilion plateau - Château Chapelle-Madeleine 5 plateaux and côtes 78 Château Trimoulet 22 Château Cheval Blanc Soil: Côte and St.-Émilion plateau 51 Château Jean Faure 1 Soil: Ancient sand and graves Soil: Graves and ancient sand 24 Château le Châtelet 9 Soil: Ancient sand - Château Trois-Moulins 4 Soil: Côte and ancient sand 52 Château Laniote 3 Soil: St.-Émilion plateau and côte PREMIER GRAND CRU CLASSÉ 25 Château Chauvin Soil: Ancient sand and pied de 79 Château Troplong Mondot CLASS B Soil: Ancient sand côte Soil: St.-Émilion plateau 3 Château l’Angélus 7 26 Château Clos des Jacobins 53 Château Larcis Ducasse 80 Château Villemaurine Soil: Pied de côte and ancient Soil: Côte and ancient sand Soil: Côte and pied de côte Soil: St.-Émilion plateau sand 27 Château la Clotte 54 Château Larmande Soil: Ancient 81 Château Yon-Figeac 1, 7 Soil: Côte sand Soil: Ancient sand 4 Château Beau-Séjour Bécot 8 Soil: St.-Émilion plateau and côte 28 Château la Clusière 55 Château Laroque 5 Château Beauséjour Soil: Côte Soil: St.-Émilion plateau and côte See opposite for an explanation of (Duffau Lagarosse) 29 Château Corbin 56 Château Laroze soil types. Côte Soil: Ancient sand Soil: Ancient sand Soil: 9 6 Château Belair Soil: St.-Émilion 30 Château Corbin Michotte 57 Clos la Madeleine Notes plateau and côte Soil: Ancient sand Soil: St.-Émilion plateau and côte 1 One premier grand cru classé and 1, 8 7 Château Canon 31 Château la Couspaude 58 Château la Marzelle six grands crus classés demoted in Soil: St.-Émilion plateau and côte Soil: St.-Émilion plateau (now Château Lamarzelle) the 1985 revision. 32 Château Coutet 1 Soil: Ancient sand and graves 2 This property was not in the 8 Château-Figeac 3 Graves and ancient sand Soil: Côte 59 Château Matras original 1958 classification, nor was Soil: 6 9 Clos Fourtet Château le Couvent Soil: Pied de côte it included in the 1969 revision, but St.-Émilion plateau and Soil: St.-Émilion plateau 60 Château Mauvezin was awarded grand cru classé Soil: 3 ancient sand 33 Couvent des Jacobins Soil: St.-Émilion plateau and côte status in 1985. 10 Château la Gaffelière Soil: Ancient sand and pied de 61 Château Moulin du Cadet 3 These properties were not in the Côte, pied de côte côte Soil: Côte and ancient sand original 1958 classification, but Soil: 9 3 11 Château Magdelaine 34 Château Croque Michotte 62 Clos de I’Oratoire were awarded grand cru classé Soil: St.-Émilion plateau, côte, Soil: Ancient sand and graves Soil: Pied de côte status in the 1969 revision. and pied de côte 35 Château Curé Bon la Madeleine 63 Château Pavie Décesse 4 These two properties were Soil: St-Émilion plateau and côte Soil: St.-Émilion plateau and côte merged with premier grand cru 12 Château Pavie 3 Soil: Côte and St.-Émilion plateau 36 Château Dassault 64 Château Pavie Macquin classé Château Beau-Séjour-Bécot 13 Château Trottevieille Soil: Ancient sand Soil: St.-Émilion plateau, côte, in 1979. Wines bearing both labels Soil: St.-Émilion plateau 37 Château la Dominique and sandy gravel can be found up to the 1978 Soil: Ancient sand and graves 65 Château Pavillon-Cadet 9 vintage, and it is possible that 38 Château Faurie de Souchard Soil: Côte and ancient sand they might reappear sometime in GRAND CRU CLASSÉ Soil: Pied de côte 66 Château Petit-Faurie-de-Soutard the future, particularly as the 14 Château l’Arrosée 39 Château Fonplégade Soil: Ancient sand and côte expansion of Château Beau- Soil: Côte Soil: Côte 67 Château le Prieuré Séjour-Bécot vineyard was 15 Château Baleau 40 Château Fonroque Soil: St.-Émilion plateau and côte primarily responsible for its (now Château Côte de Baleau) 1, 3 Soil: Côte and ancient sand 68 Château Ripeau demotion in the 1985 Soil: Côte and ancient sand 41 Château Franc-Mayne Soil: Ancient sand classification. 16 Château Balestard la Tonnelle Soil: Côte 69 Château St.-Georges (Côte Pavie) 5 This property was merged with Soil: St.-Émilion plateau 42 Château Grand Barrail Lamarzelle Soil: Côte and pied de côte premier grand cru classé Château 17 Château Bellevue Figeac 9 70 Clos St.-Martin Ausone in 1970. Wines with this Soil: Côte and St.-Émilion plateau Soil: Ancient sand Soil: Côte and ancient sand label can be found up to the 1969 18 Château Bergat 43 Château Grand Corbin 9 71 Château Sansonnet 9 vintage. Soil: Côte and St.-Émilion plateau Soil: Ancient sand Soil: St.-Émilion plateau 6 This property changed hands 19 Château Berliquet 2 44 Château Grand-Corbin-Despagne 9 72 Château la Serre prior to the 1985 revision and did Soil: Côte and pied de côte Soil: Ancient sand Soil: St.-Émilion plateau not apply to be considered; it was 20 Château Cadet-Bon 1, 8 45 Château Grand Mayne 73 Château Soutard not demoted, but simply ignored. Soil: St.-Émilion plateau and côte Soil: Côte and ancient sand Soil: St.-Émilion plateau and côte 7 Two properties were promoted to 21 Château Cadet-Piola 46 Château Grandes Murailles 1, 8 74 Château Tertre Daugay 3 premier grand cru classé (B) in Soil: St.-Émilion plateau and côte Soil: Côte and ancient sand Soil: St.-Émilion plateau and côte 1996. 22 Château Canon-la-Gaffelière 47 Château Grand-Pontet 75 Château la Tour Figeac 8 Four properties were promoted to Soil: Pied de côte and sandy- Soil: Côte and ancient sand Soil: Ancient sand and graves grand cru classé in 1996. gravel 48 Château Guadet St.-Julien 76 Château la Tour du Pin Figeac 9 Eight properties were demoted to 23 Château Cap de Mourlin Soil: St.-Émilion plateau (Owner: Giraud-Belivier) grand cru in 1996. Soil: Côte and ancient sand 49 Château Haut-Corbin Soil: Ancient sand and graves BORDEAUX - THE LIBOURNAIS AND FRONSADAIS - SAINT-ÉMILION 113

THE QUESTION OF QUALITY FACTORS AFFECTING TASTE AND QUALITY The diverse nature of St.-Émilion’s soil has led to many LOCATION SOIL generalizations that attempt to relate the quantity and character of HSt.-Émilion is on the right bank DSt.-Émilion’s soil is extremely the wines produced to the soils from which they come. Initially of the Dordogne, 80 miles (50 complex (see “The question of the wines were lumped into two crude categories, côtes (literally kilometers) east of Bordeaux. quality,” left) and is part of the area “hillside” or “slope”) and graves (literally “gravelly terrain”). The known as “Pomerol-Figeac graves” CLIMATE term côtes was supposed to describe fairly full-bodied wines that F that encompasses the châteaux The climate is less maritime and Cheval Blanc and Figeac. develop quickly; the term graves, fuller, firmer, and richer wines more continental than that of the that take longer to mature. Médoc, with a greater variation in VITICULTURE AND daily temperatures—there is also JVINIFICATION The simplicity was appealing, but it ignored the many wines slightly more rain during spring, and Some of the vin de presse, usually produced on the stretch of deep sand between St.-Émilion and substantially less during summer the first pressing only, is considered Pomerol, and those of the plateau, which has a heavier topsoil and winter. necessary by many châteaux. Skin- than the côtes. It also failed to distinguish between the eroded contact usually lasts for 15–21 days, ASPECT côtes and the deep-soiled bottom slopes. But most importantly, it E but may last up to four weeks. The village of St.-Émilion sits on Some wines spend as little as 12 ignored the fact that many châteaux are spread across more than a plateau where vines grow at an months in cask, but the average is one soil type (see the list of classified growths opposite) and that altitude of 80–330 ft (25–100 m). nearer to 15–22 months. These vineyards are quite steep, they have various other factors of terroir, such as aspect and particularly south of the village GRAPE VARIETIES drainage, which affect the character and quality of a wine (see Soil where two slopes face each other. GPrimary varieties: Cabernet Survey of St.-Émilion, below). The plateau continues eastward in Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot The map below shows the positions of the 81 classified châteaux the form of hilly knolls. North and Secondary varieties: Malbec, west of the village, the vineyards Carmenère of St.-Émilion, listed with their soil types (see opposite). Châteaux are on flatter ground. la Carte, Chapelle-Madeleine, le Couvent, and Trois-Moulins are listed but do not appear on the map (see notes opposite).

SOIL SURVEY OF ST-ÉMILION

The map below shows the area covered by premier grand cru described (right) and color keyed on the map. The numbers ST.-CHRISTOPHE PLATEAU classé and grand cru classé châteaux. Each soil type is of the châteaux are listed opposite. Clay-limestone and clay-sand topsoil over limestone and terra rossa subsoil. Terra rossa is a red, claylike soil.

Maillet GRAVES Deep gravel topsoil with a subsoil POMEROL 60 of large-grain sand over a very deep, 34 B St.-Georges 44 D244 arba 40 nne hard, and impermeable sedimentary 30 29 20 rock called molasse. The gravel is 49 CATUSSEAU D122 similar to that found in the Médoc. 37 43 2 51 ANCIENT SAND 76 Thick blanket of large-grain sand over a 77 68 subsoil of molasse. The bulk of this 75 Vachon sand extends northeast from the village 25 Ru of St.-Émilion toward Pomerol. issea FaureFaure 8 u du Ta 78 Although this area seems to have a illa s gentle slope all around it, and the le Cros ST-EMILION sand is very permeable, the molasse 42 Champion below is flat and impermeable. The 23 36 Bellevue 58 D243 water collects, saturating root systems 15 54 62 and increasing soil acidity. Some 66 81 40 châteaux benefit greatly from 56 38 26 underground drainage pipes. 6152 65 55 73 D243 20 ST- SANDY-GRAVEL 45 21 60 41 48 Cadet Sandy and sandy-gravel topsoil over 16 CHRISTOPHE sandy-gravel, ferruginous gravel, and 47 50 Château 32 31 iron-pan. 24 71 Premier Grand Cru 17 4 80 ST.-ÉMILION PLATEAU Classé vineyards 70 9 13 33 St-Christophe- Shallow clay-limestone and clay sand, 7 D243 les-Bardes Grand Cru Classé 3 5 18 vineyards 72 67 shell debris, and silt topsoil over eroded limestone subsoil. St-Christophe plateau St-Emilion 27 59 1 79 35 19 BOTTOM SLOPES Graves 46 6 The gentler bottom slopes of the côtes Ancient Sand 11 100 have a deep, reddish-brown, sandy- 10 69 63 74 39 loam topsoil over yellow sand subsoil. 28 Sandy-gravel 14 12 80 CÔTES 57 60 53 St-Emilion plateau 64 40 The lower-middle to upper slopes of 22 D245 St-Laurent- the côtes have a shallow, calcareous, Bottom slopes 20 les Bigaroux des-Combes clay-silty-loam topsoil with a high Pierre- Côtes Longues active lime content. Quite sandy on the middle slopes, the topsoil thins out Communal boundary D122 ST-LAURENT higher up. The subsoil is mostly 1 1 3 0 /4 /2 /4 mile D670 molasse, not the impermeable type found under the ancient sand and 0 0.5 1 km graves, but a weathered, absorbent molasse of limestone or sandstone. 114 FRANCE

THE WINE PRODUCERS OF SAINT-ÉMILION

CHÂTEAU ANGÉLUS and fired Delbeck and hired Michel CHÂTEAU BEAU-SÉJOUR gMerlot 67%, Cabernet Franc Premier Grand Cru Classé (B) Rolland as consultant. The vineyard BÉCOT 16.5%, Cabernet Sauvignon cc of Château Ausone has a privileged Premier Grand Cru Classé (B) 16.5% southeast exposure and its vines are cc k5–10 years fairly established at between 40 and 45 years of age. They are capable of Since 1979, this property has almost yielding very concentrated wines, doubled in size by merging with CHÂTEAU BERGAT two grands crus classés, Château la which are then matured in wood for Grand Cru Classé between 16 and 22 months, with Carte and Château Trois Moulins. In ? 100 percent new oak. 1985, Beau-Séjour Bécot was the only premier grand cru classé to be This small vineyard is managed by RED These rich, well-colored demoted in the revision of the St.- Philippe Castéja of Château wines have opulent aromas and Émilion classification. The demotion Trottevieille. Its wine is rarely seen scintillating flavors. They are full in was not due to its quality or and I have never tasted it. body, compact in structure, and performance, but because of its gMerlot 50%, Cabernet Franc refined in character, with masses of expansion. However, the general 40%, Cabernet Sauvignon 10% spicy-cassis fruit and creamy-oak application of such criteria would undertones. These wines are the mean demoting nearly all the quintessence of class, complexity, CHÂTEAU Bordeaux châteaux classified in BERLIQUET and finesse. 1855! The problem was that gCabernet Franc 50%, Merlot expansion within reasonable limits Grand Cru Classé This is a large property with a single cb plot of vines on the south-facing 50% is allowed in the Médoc, but not in This was the only property to be côtes. At one time the château k15–45 years St.-Émilion. This has since been upgraded to grand cru classé in the produced wines in the old rectified and in 1996 this château 1985 reclassification. With Patrick “farmyard” style, but that ended with was promoted and is once again a CHÂTEAU Valette consulting since 1997 there the 1980 vintage. Two-thirds of the premier grand cru classé (B). The BALESTARD has been an upward trend in wine is matured for 14 to 16 months wine is fermented in stainless steel quality, and if this continues it in wood with 100 per cent new oak. LA TONNELLE and matured in wood for 18 would be difficult to deny Berliquet This château is a rising star, and was Grand Cru Classé months, with 90 percent new oak. premier grand cru classé status promoted to premier grand cru c RED Once lightweight and high- during a future revision. The wine is classé (B) in 1996. The label of this wine bears a 15th- tone, this wine is now full, rich, and truly characterful. The silky Merlot made under the supervision of the RED This is a soft, silky, and century poem by François Villon local coopérative. It is fermented in seductive wine. The luxury of new that cites the name of the château. fruit develops quickly, but is backed up with creamy new oak. stainless-steel vats and matured in oak is having a positive effect on the One-third of the wine is matured in wood for 18 months, with 30 quality, character, and aging 100 percent new oak for up to 24 gMerlot 70%, Cabernet Franc percent new oak. potential of this wine. months, one-third is aged in two- 15%, Cabernet Sauvignon 15% RED These are deep, dark, and year-old barrels, and the remainder gCabernet Franc 50%, Merlot k7–25 years dense wines with spicy-cassis fruit rests in stainless-steel vats until 45%, Cabernet Sauvignon 5% and good vanilla oak. bottling, when it is all blended Second wine: La Tournelle des k7–20 years together. Moines gMerlot 70%, Cabernet Franc Second wine: Carillon de l’Angélus RED The gentle, ripe aromas of this and Cabernet Sauvignon 30% wine belie its staunchly traditional CHÂTEAU BELAIR k10–30 years CHÂTEAU style. It is a full-bodied wine of Premier Grand Cru Classé (B) L’ARROSÉE great extract, tannin, and acidity that cc CHÂTEAU CADET-BON Grand Cru Classé requires time to soften, but it has Pascal Delbeck, the gifted Grand Cru Classé cbV masses of fruit, and so matures winemaker formerly of Château b This property sits on the côtes above gracefully. Ausone, lives here and makes the This property was demoted from the local coopérative. Through gMerlot 65%, Cabernet Franc wine with the same care and grand cru classé status in the 1985 excellent selection of only its finest 20%, Cabernet Sauvignon 10%, attention that he used to apply at reclassification, but after a period of grapes, it has consistently produced Malbec 5% Ausone. The wine is matured in progress Cadet-Bon was reinstated wines that are a class above those of wood for 16 to 20 months. Up to k10–30 years in the 1996 reclassification. Quality many of its peers. half is aged in new oak, the rest in Second wine: Les Tourelles de casks that have been used for one continues to improve. RED This medium- to full-bodied Balestard wine at Ausone. This is one of the g wine has a lovely ruby color, a Merlot 60%, Cabernet Franc very best premiers grands crus. voluptuous bouquet, and soft, 40% creamy-rich fruit backed up by CHÂTEAU RED This is a deep-colored, full- supple oak tannin. BEAUSÉJOUR bodied wine with a rich flavor of CHÂTEAU plums, chocolate, black cherries, (Owner: Duffau–Lagarosse) CADET-PIOLA gMerlot 50%, Cabernet and cassis. It has great finesse, an Sauvignon 35%, Cabernet Franc Premier Grand Cru Classé (B) Grand Cru Classé cc alluring style, and a scintillating, c 15% spicy-cedarwood complexity. k5–15 years These little-seen wines consistently With the exception of the vintages underwhelmed critics until the gMerlot 60%, Cabernet Franc 40% of 1980 and 1981, which were very Second wine: Les Coteaux du 1980s, since when Château k10–35 years light, this property usually shows Château l’Arrosée Beauséjour began to produce Second wine: Roc Blanquet great consistency and exquisite style. Up to 50 percent of the wine CHÂTEAU AUSONE darker, fuller wines with more class, but I was not that impressed until CHÂTEAU BELLEVUE is matured in new oak. Premier Grand Cru Classé (A) the stellar class 2000 vintage. RED These are full-bodied, Grand Cru Classé ccc RED Lovely rich wine, with intensely flavored wines with After gifted winemaker Pascal concentrated fruit, and great This small property was originally powerful, new-oak character and Delbeck took control of Château potential longevity from 2000 called “Fief-de-Bellevue” and great tannic strength. belonged to the Lacaze family from Ausone in 1975, this prestigious onward. g 1642 to 1938. It is situated on the Merlot 51%, Cabernet property produced wines of stunning gMerlot 50%, Cabernet Franc Sauvignon 28%, Cabernet Franc quality, and it now deserves its côtes and produces a wine that is 25%, Cabernet Sauvignon 25% 18%, Malbec 3% superstar status. In 1997, after a seldom seen outside France. power struggle between the two k7–15 years RED No better than many k12–25 years owners, Alain Vauthier took control Second wine: La Croix de Mazerat unclassified St.-Émilions. Second wine: Chevalier de Malte BORDEAUX - THE LIBOURNAIS AND FRONSADAIS - SAINT-ÉMILION 115

CHÂTEAU CANON CHÂTEAU gCabernet Franc 60%, Merlot ownership as the Logis de la Premier Grand Cru Classé (B) CAP DE MOURLIN 37%, Malbec 2%, Cabernet Cadène restaurant in St.-Émilion, ccV Grand Cru Classé Sauvignon 1% where much of its wine is sold. The Libournais négociant Jean- Many years ago this château used to c k12–40 years Pierre Moueix takes three-quarters produce a second wine called “St.- Until 1982 there were two versions Second wine: Le Petit Cheval of the crop. Martin-de-Mazerat,” which was the of this wine, one bearing the name Although not as consistent as old parish name before Château of Jacques Capdemourlin and one RED CLOS FOURTET some grands crus classés, when Canon was absorbed by St.-Émilion. that of Jean Capdemourlin. This Premier Grand Cru Classé (B) successful this estate can make Excellent wines were made under property is run by Jacques. The cbV attractive and elegant wines with Eric Forner and although he sold wine is matured in wood for up to lots of soft, silky fruit that are a out in 1996 the quality has been 24 months, with one-third new oak. This property had an inconsistent maintained. In summer 2000 the record, but has steadily improved match for its peers. RED An improving, attractive, well- throughout the 1990s. The wines are new owners, Chanel Inc., bought made, medium-bodied wine, with gMerlot 70%, Cabernet the nearby property Curé Bon la matured in wood for 12 to 18 Franc 30% exquisitely fresh fruit, and a smooth months, using 70 percent new oak. Madeleine with INAO agreement to finish. k5–12 years incorporate it into Canon from the RED Opulent and medium-bodied gMerlot 60%, Cabernet Franc 2000 vintage. So goodbye Curé Bon! with silky Merlot fruit, gaining in CHÂTEAU The grand vin, fermented in oak 25%, Cabernet Sauvignon 12%, complexity and finesse. Malbec 3% LA CLUSIÈRE vats and matured in wood for 20 gMerlot 60%, Cabernet Franc months with 50 percent new oak, is k6–15 years Grand Cru Classé 20%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20% ? one of the best of St.-Émilion’s Second wine: Mayne d’Artagnon premiers grands crus classés. k6–12 years This is a small enclave within the RED These wines have a deep CHÂTEAU LA CARTE Second wine: Domaine de property of Château Pavie and is purple color, an opulent cassis Martialis under the same ownership as Pavie Grand Cru Classé bouquet, and are very rich and and Château Pavie Décesse. This voluptuous on the palate with Since 1980, the vineyards of this CHÂTEAU wine is fermented in stainless-steel masses of juicy Merlot fruit and property have been merged with CLOS DES JACOBINS vats and matured in wood (two- those of premier grand cru classé spicy complexity. Grand Cru Classé year-old barrels from Château Pavie) Château Beau-Séjour-Bécot. gMerlot 55%, Cabernet Franc c for up to 24 months. 40%, Cabernet Sauvignon 4% Clos des Jacobins, which is kept in RED This wine has a certain CHÂTEAU elegance, but lacks finesse and has k8–30 years the impeccable style to which all CHAPELLE-MADELEINE a high-tone style that does not Second wine: Clos J. Kanon the Cordier properties are Grand Cru Classé until 1996 accustomed, is impressive even appeal to me. To be fair, I must point out that those who appreciate CHÂTEAU Since 1971, these vineyards have during “off vintages.” been merged with those of premier this style often find la Clusière solid CANON-LA-GAFFELIÈRE RED These are rich, fat wines, and characterful. grand cru classé Château Ausone. bursting with chocolate and black- Grand Cru Classé cherry flavors. gMerlot 70%, Cabernet Franc cb 20%, Cabernet Sauvignon 10% CHÂTEAU CHAUVIN gMerlot 85%, Cabernet Franc Grand Cru Classé 10%, Cabernet Sauvignon 5% k5–10 years c k8–25 years This property’s wine is matured in CHÂTEAU wood for 18 months, with one-third CLOS DE CORBIN new oak. It is difficult to find, but L’ORATOIRE Grand Cru Classé its quality makes it deserving of ? better distribution. Grand Cru Classé cc This property has the same owners RED When on form, Château as Château Grand Corbin—the Chauvin can have excellent color, This property belongs to Stephan Corbin estate, which is now divided an aromatic bouquet, full body, and Von Neipperg, who should develop into five separate properties plummy fruit. More hits than misses a cult following for this wine. The bordering the Pomerol district. these days, as the wines are made wine is matured in wood for 18 The wine is fermented in stainless with an increasing degree of finesse. months, with one-third new oak. steel and one-third of the gMerlot 60%, Cabernet Franc RED These fine, full-flavored wines production is matured in 100 30%, Cabernet Sauvignon 10% tend to have great concentration percent new oak. and style. k4–10 years RED Deep-colored, full-bodied, and gMerlot 75%, Cabernet Franc 25% deliciously rich, but rather rustic for Second wine: Chauvin Variation k7–15 years a classified growth. Owned since 1985 by Comte CHÂTEAU gMerlot 67%, Cabernet Franc Von Neippberg, Château Canon- CHEVAL BLANC CLOS ST.-MARTIN and Cabernet Sauvignon 33% la Gaffeliére is one of the oldest Grand Cru Classé k6–12 years properties in St.-Émilion. Its wine Premier Grand Cru Classé (A) ccc c Other wines: Latour Corbin, was fermented in stainless-steel Château Corbin-Vieille-Tour vats until wooden vats were The unusual aspect of this great These wines are made at Château installed in 1997, and the quality wine is its high proportion of Côte Baleau alongside those of that CHÂTEAU Cabernet Franc, which harks back property and those of Château soared the very next year. CORBIN MICHOTTE Malolactic fermentation is carried to the pre-1956 era. Switching to a Grandes Murailles. Of these three out in barrel and the wines matured majority of Merlot vines was wines, only Clos St.-Martin retained Grand Cru Classé for 18 months, with up to 50 advantageous for most Libournais grand cru classé status after the c percent new oak. properties but keeping a proportion reclassification of 1985. It is aged in This is one of five Corbin and two of 60 percent Cabernet Franc was wood with 25 percent new barrels Michotte estates! This wine is RED This wine has been on form every four years. since 1998. It has been really even better for Château Cheval fermented in stainless steel and plump, displaying vivid, Blanc. In 1998 this château was RED Vivid color with ripe Merlot some is matured in wood, with concentrated, spicy fruit, bought by two businessmen, Albert fruit, silky texture, and elegant style. one-third new oak. finishing with creamy oak. Frère from Belgium and Bernard gMerlot 75%, Cabernet Franc 25% RED A dark, deeply flavored, Arnault, the head of LVMH. The gMerlot 65%, Cabernet Franc k6–15 years full-bodied wine that has rich, juicy wine is matured in wood for 20 Merlot fruit and some finesse. 30%, Cabernet months, with 100 percent new oak. gMerlot 65%, Cabernet Franc Sauvignon 5% RED These wines have all the CHÂTEAU LA CLOTTE 30%, Cabernet Sauvignon 5% k8–20 years sweet, spicy richness one expects Grand Cru Classé Other wines: Côte Mignon-la- from a classic St.-Émilion property ? k6–15 years Gaffelière situated on graves. This property is under the same Second wine: Les Abeilles 116 FRANCE

CHÂTEAU CÔTE DE CHÂTEAU CROQUE CHÂTEAU austere, tannic wine with attenuated BALEAU MICHOTTE FAURIE DE SOUCHARD fruit, and lacking style. Grand Cru Classé until 1985 Grand Cru Classé until 1996 Grand Cru Classé gMerlot 60%, Cabernet Franc c Oc Lackluster, underperformer. 35%, Cabernet Sauvignon 5% This property was unjustly demoted This property certainly deserves its RED As from 1986 the vintages k5–12 years from its grand cru classé status in grand cru classé status. The wine is have increased in color and Second wine: Clos Goudichaud the 1985 revision. Côte de Baleau fermented in stainless steel and concentration, but the wines are not deserves its former classification and matured in wood for between 18 special. CHÂTEAU FONROQUE is under the same ownership as and 24 months, with up to one-third gMerlot 65%, Cabernet Franc Grand Cru Classé Château Grandes Murailles and Clos new oak. 26%, Cabernet Sauvignon 9% c St.-Martin, the former of which was RED A delightful and elegant style Located just northwest of St.-Émilion also unfairly demoted. This wine is of wine, brimming with juicy, soft, k4–7 years itself, this secluded property has aged in wood and 25 percent of the and silky Merlot fruit. Other wines: Cadet-Peychez barrels are renewed every four belonged to the négociant J.-P. gMerlot 80%, Cabernet Franc years. CHÂTEAU–FIGEAC Moueix since 1931. The wine is and Cabernet Sauvignon 20% matured in wood for 24 months. RED Full, rich, and well-balanced k5–12 years Premier Grand Cru Classé (B) wines that have good fruit, some ccc RED This is a deep-colored, well- fat, and an attractive underlying made wine with a fine plummy vanilla character. CHÂTEAU CURÉ character that shows better on the bouquet and the initial and middle gMerlot 70%, Cabernet BON LA MADELEINE palate than on the finish. Sauvignon 20%, Cabernet Franc Grand Cru Classé 10% Surrounded by premiers grands crus gMerlot 70%, Cabernet Franc 30% k4–12 years classés such as Ausone, Belair, and Canon, this property has had an k6–15 years Second wine: Des Roches Blanches excellent record, but was absorbed CHÂTEAU LA COUSPAUDE by Château Canon in the summer of CHÂTEAU 2000. LA GAFFELIÈRE Grand Cru Classé c Premier Grand Cru Classé (B) CHÂTEAU DASSAULT cb This property was demoted from its Grand Cru Classé Some critics suggest that the This property belongs to Comte Léo grand cru classé status in 1985 but, cb following a string of good vintages, unusually high proportion of de Malet-Roquefort, who also owns was promoted back to its original This property was promoted to Cabernet Sauvignon in the the very old estate of Château Tertre classification in 1996, since when grand cru classé in the 1969 encépagement (varietal blend) of Daugay, a grand cru classé. After a the quality has continued to revision of the 1954 St.-Émilion this great château is wrong, but string of aggressive, ungenerous improve. The wine is matured in classification. It has an excellent owner Thierry de Manoncourt vintages, Gaffelière has produced wood, with up to 80 percent new record and more than deserves its refutes this. He has bottles of pure increasingly excellent wines since oak. classification. The wine is fermented varietal wines produced at Figeac the mid-1980s. The wine is matured in stainless steel and matured in in wood for 18 months, with 100 This wine now has lots of going back 30 years. As far as I am RED wood for 12 months, with one-third percent new oak. upfront, juicy-Merlot fruit with an concerned, his blended grand vin of the casks being new oak, and increasing amount of finesse. says it all every year. This château RED These wines are concentrated undergoes as many as six rackings. belongs with the elite of Ausone and tannic, but they now have gMerlot 60%, Cabernet Franc With its beautifully understated and its graves neighbor, Cheval much more finesse, fat, and mouth- and Cabernet Sauvignon 40% Lafite-like label, Dassault’s Blanc. The wine is matured in tingling richness than previously. presentation is perfect. k3–7 years wood for 18 to 20 months, with 100 gMerlot 65%, Cabernet Franc Second wine: Hubert RED Supremely elegant wines that percent new oak. 20%, Cabernet Sauvignon 15% always display a delicate marriage RED Impressively ripe, rich, and k12–35 years CHÂTEAU of fruit and oak in perfect balance, concentrated wines with fine color, COUTET with fine acidity and supple tannin. a beautiful bouquet, stunning Second wine: Clos la Gaffelière gMerlot 65%, Cabernet Franc creamy-ripe fruit, great finesse, and Other wines: Roquefort Grand Cru Classé until 1985 a wonderful spicy complexity. ? 20%, Cabernet Sauvignon 15% gMerlot 30%, Cabernet Franc CHÂTEAU This property was demoted from its k8–25 years 35%, Cabernet Sauvignon 35% LA GOMERIE grand cru classé status in 1985. It Second wine: Merissac has a record of producing finer k12–30 years Grand Cru wines than la Couspaude (see CHÂTEAU LA DOMINIQUE Second wine: La Grange Neuve cc previous entry), but, unfortunately, Owned by Gérard and Dominique Grand Cru Classé has the same lack of consistency. CHÂTEAU Bécot of Beau-Séjour-Bécot fame, I cc RED Most vintages have a light but FONPLÉGADE rather get the impression that the This property, one of the best of the elegant style, with a firm tannin Grand Cru Classé tiny production of this 100 percent grands crus classés, is situated close structure. Merlot vinified in 100 percent new to Château Cheval Blanc on the Under the same ownership as oak is the vinous equivalent of gCabernet Franc 45%, Merlot graves in the extreme west of St.- Château la Tour du Pin Figeac, this giving the finger to the authorities. 45%, Cabernet Sauvignon 5%, Émilion. The wine is fermented in property belongs to Armand The unfair demotion of Beau-Séjour- Malbec 5% stainless-steel vats that are equipped Moueix, cousin of Jean-Pierre Bécot in 1985 (rectified in 1996) k4–8 years with grilles to keep the marc Moueix of Château Pétrus et al. was a cruel and unjustified blow to (residue of pips, stalks, and skin) The wine is matured in wood for the Bécots, who had improved the COUVENT submerged during the cuvaison 12 to 15 months, using one-third quality of their wine. By producing new oak. DES JACOBINS (skin-contact fermentation). It is an unclassified superpremium St.- matured in wood for 24 months, RED I used to find this wine Émilion that demands and receives Grand Cru Classé with 50 percent new oak. astringent and vegetal, earthy even, a higher price than its own premier c RED Very open and expressive but then it appeared to pick up, grand cru classé, the Bécots have The wine from the young vines of wines that are plump and attractive, only to lapse. There have been so demonstrated that the classification this property is not included in its full of ripe, creamy fruit with many false starts in its perceived is meaningless. grand vin, but is used to make a elegant underlying oak. improvement that I no longer RED Masses of rich, ripe Merlot second wine called “Château Beau expect any consistency. Even gMerlot 60%, Cabernet Franc fruit dominate this wine, despite Mayne.” One-third of the production though the best vintages (1982, its 100 percent new oak. A is matured in wood, with 100 15%, Cabernet Sauvignon 15%, 1990, 2000, and 2001) have been Malbec 10% stunning wine that deserves its percent new oak. delightfully clean and attractive, cult following. RED The delicious, silky-seductive k8–25 years literally bursting with the soft, ripe, gMerlot 100% fruit in this consistently well-made Second wine: St.-Paul de la juicy fruit flavors of raspberries and wine is very stylish and harmonious. Dominique strawberries, mostly this is an k4–18 years BORDEAUX - THE LIBOURNAIS AND FRONSADAIS - SAINT-ÉMILION 117

CHÂTEAU GRAND- Château Beau-Séjour Bécot. The Thunevin, this well-sited property CHÂTEAU LAROQUE CORBIN-DESPAGNE wine is matured in wood for 12–18 produces just 750 cases annually, Grand Cru Classé Grand Cru Classé until 1996 months with 50 percent new oak. with wines matured in 100 percent c new oak. cV RED After a string of very dull Made a grand cru classé in 1996, vintages, this property is now So succulent and luscious is This part of the Corbin estate was RED this is one of three grands crus producing full-bodied wines of fine the fruit, and so supple the tannins, bought by the Despagne family— classés châteaux that are not quality and character. They are fat that this wine is accessible from a hence the name. It was demoted in situated in the commune of St.- and ripe, rich in fruit and tannin, remarkably youthful age, yet will the 1996 St.-Émilion Classification. Émilion itself. with delightful underlying creamy- still improve. The wine is fermented in stainless RED As smooth and fruity as might oak flavors. steel and matured in wood for up to gMerlot 60%, Cabernet be expected, with good tannic edge 18 months, with some new oak. gMerlot 60%, Cabernet Franc Sauvignon 40% and increasing oak influence. RED A well-colored wine of full and Cabernet Sauvignon 40% k5–15 years gMerlot 80%, Cabernet Franc and rich body with plenty of k6–15 years 15%, Cabernet Sauvignon 5% creamy fruit and oak, supported by CHATEAU LAMARZELLE k4–16 years supple tannin. CHÂTEAU Grand Cru Classé Second wine: Les Tours de Laroque gMerlot 90%, Cabernet Franc GUADET ST.-JULIEN b 10% Grand Cru Classé Under the same ownership as CHÂTEAU LAROZE b k7–25 years Grand Barrail Lamarzelle Figeac, this Grand Cru Classé Second wine: Reine-Blanche This property consistently produces property preserved its classification cV wines that well deserve their status. in 1996, while the other château This 19th-century château was They are matured in wood for 18 to was demoted. CHÂTEAU GRANDES named Laroze after a “characteristic MURAILLES 20 months, using up to one-third RED Forward, fruity wines that new oak. scent of roses” was found in its Grand Cru Classé have improved throughout the 1990s. wines. The wine is matured in c RED These are wines that show the gCabernet Franc 80%, Merlot wood for one to three years. silky charms of Merlot very early, 20% This property was demoted from its and then tighten up for a few years RED The wine does have a soft and grand cru classé status in 1985, before blossoming into finer and k3–7 years seductive bouquet, although I have unjustly I think. The wines fuller wines. yet to find “roses” in it. It is an produced here are better and more CHÂTEAU LANIOTE immediately appealing wine of consistent than those of many gMerlot 75%, Cabernet Franc some finesse that is always a delight châteaux that were not demoted at and Cabernet Sauvignon 25% Grand Cru Classé to drink early. b that time. Château Grandes k7–20 years gMerlot 50%, Cabernet Franc Murailles was, however, promoted An old property that incorporates 45%, Cabernet Sauvignon 5% back to its previous status in the CHÂTEAU HAUT-CORBIN the “Holy Grotto” where St.-Émilion lived in the 8th century. The wine is k4–10 years 1996 St.-Émilion Classification. It is Grand Cru Classé under the same ownership as c fermented and matured in wood Château Côte de Baleau and Clos with 25 percent new oak. CHÂTEAU MAGDELAINE This wine is matured in wood for St.-Martin, the former of which was RED Stylish medium-bodied wines, Premier Grand Cru Classé (B) 24 months, with up to 20 percent also unfairly demoted. The wine is with plenty of fresh, elegant fruit. ccV new oak. Same ownership as fermented in stainless-steel vats and Canteneste, with a string of good gMerlot 70%, Cabernet Franc matured in wood for 20 months, vintages since the 1990s. 20%, Cabernet Sauvignon 10% using up to 25 percent new oak. k6–12 years RED These elegant, harmonious gMerlot 70%, Cabernet Franc wines have good extract and a and Cabernet Sauvignon 30% supple tannin structure that quickly Second wine: Vin d’Edouard CHÂTEAU LARCIS DUCASSE softens. They are a delight to drink Grand Cru Classé when relatively young, although CHÂTEAU HAUT-SARPE cb they also age gracefully. Grand Cru Classé This property, whose vineyard is gMerlot 60%, Cabernet Franc c situated on the Côte de Pavie, 20%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20% Although not one of the top matures its wine in vat and wood k5–20 years performers, this château certainly for 24 months. deserves its status. The wine is RED Fuller, richer wines in the CHÂTEAU GRAND MAYNE matured in wood for 20 to 22 1990s, particularly in the best years. This could be considered the Pétrus months, using 25 percent new oak. of St.-Émilion. It is the grandest St.- Grand Cru Classé gMerlot 65%, Cabernet Franc Émilion estate in the Jean-Pierre cbV RED Elegant, silky, and stylish and Cabernet Sauvignon 35% Moueix Libournais empire, but as medium-bodied wines that are best This château ferments its wine in k4–8 years fine as the terroir is, and as much as appreciated when young. stainless-steel vats and ages it in Moueix does to extract maximum wood with 80 percent new oak. gMerlot 70%, Cabernet Franc CHÂTEAU LARMANDE quality, the wine falls short of RED This is a firm, fresh, and fruity 30% Pétrus. The wine matures in wood Grand Cru Classé for 18 months, with a third new oak. style of wine that had a rather k4–8 years cb inconsistent reputation until the RED These well-colored wines have Consistently one of the best 1990s, when the wines have had CHÂTEAU JEAN FAURE excellent concentration, yet great grands crus classés in St.-Émilion, much more richness than in finesse and a certain delicacy. The Grand Cru Classé until 1985 fermented in stainless-steel vats previous years. flavor is multilayered with a long, This property was demoted from its and matured in wood for 12 to 18 elegant, and complex finish. gMerlot 50%, Cabernet Franc grand cru classé status in 1985. I months, with 35 to 50 percent new 40%, Cabernet Sauvignon 10% have not tasted vintages beyond 1983. oak. gMerlot 80%, Cabernet Franc 20% k4–10 years The wine is matured in wood for 24 RED These superb wines are k10–35 years Second wine: Les Plantes du months, with 25 percent new oak. typified by their great concentration Mayne RED These wines have good color of color and fruit. They are rich and CHÂTEAU MATRAS Other wines: Cassevert, Château and easy, attractive, supple fruit. ripe with an abundancy of creamy Grand Cru Classé Beau Mazerat gCabernet Franc 60%, Merlot cassis and vanilla flavors that c 30%, Malbec 10% develop into a cedarwood This wine is matured in tank for 12 complexity. CHÂTEAU k3–8 years months, followed by 12 months in GRAND-PONTET gMerlot 65%, Cabernet Franc one-third new oak. A fine 1990. 30%, Cabernet Sauvignon 5% Grand Cru Classé CHÂTEAU L’HERMITAGE RED Opulent, silky fruit. cbV c k8–25 years gCabernet Franc 60%, Merlot Since 1980 this property has been Owned by Véronique Gaboriaud, a Second wine: Le Cadet de Larmande 40% under the same ownership as friend of garagiste Jean-Luc Other wines: Des Templiers k6–15 years 118 FRANCE

CHÂTEAU MAUVEZIN CHÂTEAU These wines have noticeably and complex. Grand Cru Classé MOULIN DU CADET improved throughout the 1990s, gMerlot 80%, Cabernet Franc ? Grand Cru Classé when Nicolas Thienpont of Vieux 10%, Cabernet Sauvignon 5%, Château Certan has overseen the This property deserves its grand OcV Malbec 5% production. cru classé status. The wine is This château, which is farmed by k6–20 years Much richer, with more fruit fermented and matured in new oak. the Libournais négociant J.-P. RED and new oak in recent years. RED The style usually has been Moueix, is consistently one of the CHÂTEAU aromatic and supple with some best grands crus classés. The wine is gMerlot 75%, Cabernet Franc ST.-GEORGES (CÔTE PAVIE) oaky finesse. matured in wood for 18 months, and Cabernet Sauvignon 25% Grand Cru Classé with a small proportion of new oak. gCabernet Franc 50%, Merlot k4–8 years c RED These wines have good color, 40%, Cabernet Sauvignon 10% Owned by Jacques Masson, this a fine bouquet, delightfully CHÂTEAU PETIT-FAURIE- k7–15 years small property’s vineyard is well perfumed Merlot fruit, excellent DE-SOUTARD situated, lying close to those of finesse, and some complexity. They CHATEAU Grand Cru Classé châteaux Pavie and la Gaffelière. are not full or powerful, but what cb The wine is fermented in stainless MONBOUSQUET they lack in size, they more than steel and matured in wooden casks Grand Cru make up for in style. This excellent property used to be part of the neighboring Château for 24 months. cb gMerlot 85%, Cabernet Franc 15% Soutard, but is now run by Jacques RED This is a delicious, medium- k6–15 years Capdemourlin, who also runs bodied wine with plump, spicy-juicy Château Cap de Mourlin and Merlot fruit, made in an attractive CHÂTEAU PAVIE Château Balestard la Tonnelle. Half early-drinking style that does not Premier Grand Cru Classé (B) of its production is matured in lack finesse. ccV wood for up to a year. gMerlot 50%, Cabernet Franc This top-performing château was RED This wine has soft, creamy 25%, Cabernet Sauvignon 25% purchased in 1998 along with Pavie aromas on the bouquet, some k4–8 years Décesse and La Clusière by Gérard concentration of smooth Merlot fruit Perse. Perse used to own a group of on the palate, a silky texture, and a CHÂTEAU dry, tannic finish. It is absolutely hypermarkets, but his love of fine SANSONNET wine began to take over his delicious when young but gains a working life in 1993, when he lot from a little bottle-age. Grand Cru Classé until 1996 This was hypermarket owner purchased Monbousquet. The link gMerlot 60%, Cabernet Franc ? Gérard Perse’s first venture into between Pavie under its previous 30%, Cabernet Sauvignon 10% Supposedly purchased in 1999 by wine and he openly admits that he owners, the Valette family, and now k3–8 years François d’Aulan, the former owner bought the property because of its is Michel Rolland, who has been of Piper-Heidsieck and the master beauty, rather than out of any retained as consultant. Although puppeteer behind numerous wine- detailed analysis of its viticultural Pavie has produced some of the CHÂTEAU PIPEAU related deals ever since. One of my potential. That said, he has, with greatest wines of St.-Émilion in Grand Cru spies reports that the previous the help of consultant Michel recent decades, the obvious cV owner is still there. If d’Aulan is Rolland, taken this château to advantage for Rolland is that Perse Up and coming château, Pipeau is serious about taking this château unbelievable heights and, having has poured a small fortune into new matured in wood for 18 months, on, then we can expect some done so, set about analyzing what installations. The wine is matured in with 50 percent new oak. investment and improvement. could and should be purchased wood for 18 to 24 months, with 100 RED Rich, stylish, and quite striking However, if it’s just part of one of in St.-Émilion from a purely percent new oak. wines that are full of fruit, his deals, don’t hold your breath. viticultural perspective. He set RED Great, stylish wines packed underpinned by creamy-smoky oak, RED This wine is inconsistent and his sights on Pavie and Pavie with creamy fruit and lifted by and easier to drink younger than many vintages lack concentration, Décesse, which he purchased in exquisite new oak. Fabulous most St.-Émilions. but the 1982, which is very light for 1998 and 1997. Monbousquet concentration since 1998, without the year, is supple and attractive. remains his home. gMerlot 80%, Cabernet Franc losing any finesse, although I will gMerlot 60%, Cabernet Franc RED Voluptuous, velvety, and 10%, Cabernet Sauvignon 10% keep an open mind about the 2003 20%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20% hedonistic, these wines lack neither for a decade or so! k4–10 years k3–7 years complexity nor finesse, but they are gMerlot 60%, Cabernet Franc so delicious to drink that their more 30%, Cabernet Sauvignon 10% CHÂTEAU LE PRIEURÉ profound qualities easily slip by. Grand Cru Classé CHÂTEAU LA SERRE Or should that be slip down? k8–30 years b Grand Cru Classé g Cabernet Sauvignon 10%, CHÂTEAU PAVIE DÉCESSE This property is under the same cV Cabernet Franc 40%, ownership as Château Vray Croix de This is another property that is Merlot 50% Grand Cru Classé cb Gay in Pomerol and Château improving tremendously in quality. k4–15 years Siaurac in Lalande-de-Pomerol. The It occupies two terraces on St.- This property was under the same wine produced here is matured in Émilion’s limestone plateau, one in ownership as Château Pavie when wood for 18 to 24 months, with 25 front of the château and one CHATEAU the Valette family were the owners, percent new oak. behind. The wine is fermented in MONDOTTE and still is under Perse. Although it lined concrete tanks and matured in is not one of the top grands crus RED Light but lengthy wines of Grand Cru wood for 16 months with a small classés, it is consistent and certainly some elegance that are best enjoyed cc proportion of new oak. worthy of its status. when young and fresh. Since the 1996 vintage, Stephan Von RED This wine initially charms, RED Huge seachange in color, gMerlot 60%, Cabernet Franc Neipperg’s unclassified vin de then goes through a tight and sullen quality, and concentration in the 30%, Cabernet Sauvignon 10% garage has surpassed the quality period, making it reminiscent of 1998 and 1999 vintage. k4–8 years and price of his excellent grand cru Château Guadet St.-Julien. Their classé Château Canon-la-Gaffelière. gMerlot 60%, Cabernet Franc Second wine: L’Olivier styles, however, are very different. Low yield, 100 percent oak, and 25%, Cabernet Sauvignon 15% When young, this is quite a ripe ludicrous prices. k6–12 years QUINAULT L’ENCLOS and plump wine, totally dominated RED Extraordinary color, density, Grand Cru by new oak. In time, the fruit and complexity for a wine that is CHÂTEAU PAVIE MACQUIN cV emerges to form a luscious, stylish not in the slightest bit heavy and wine of some finesse and Grand Cru Classé Increasingly impressive since being complexity. makes such charming and easy cb purchased by Dr. Alain Raynaud in drinking. 1997, this wine is matured in wood gMerlot 80%, Cabernet Franc This property was named after 20% gCabernet Franc 10%, Merlot Albert Macquin, a local grower who for 18 months, with 100 percent 90% pioneered work to graft European new oak. k8–25 years k5–20 years vines on to American rootstock. RED Exceptionally concentrated Second wine: Menuts de la Serre BORDEAUX - THE LIBOURNAIS AND FRONSADAIS - SAINT-ÉMILION 119

CHÂTEAU SOUTARD and masses of rich, ripe cassis fruit CHÂTEAU TROIS-MOULINS CHÂTEAU VALANDRAUD Grand Cru Classé gently supported by smoky-creamy Grand Cru Classé Grand Cru oak. cbV These vineyards have been cc The large and very fine château on gMerlot 60%, Cabernet Franc 40% incorporated with those of Château Owned by Jean-Luc Thunevin, this estate was built in 1740 for the k4–8 years Beau-Séjour Bécot since 1979. Château Valandraud is one of St.- use of the Soutard family in the Émilion’s best-known vins de summer. Vines have grown here CHÂTEAU garage, although it has grown from CHÂTEAU 1 since Roman times. The wine of LA TOUR DU PIN FIGEAC its original small plot of 1 ⁄2 acres to Soutard is matured in wood for 18 TROPLONG MONDOT 11 acres (0.6 hectares to 4.5 months, with up to one-third new (Giraud-Bélivier) Grand Cru Classé hectares), making it more of a parc oak casks. Grand Cru Classé cc de stationnement. ? RED This dark, muscular, and full- This property is owned by Claude RED Wines that even Gary Figgins bodied wine is made in true vin de This property is run by André Valette and is run by his daughter of Leonetti in Washington state garde style, which means it Giraud, who also owns Château le Christine. Half the production is might complain were too oaky! Caillou in Pomerol. Unfortunately, improves greatly while aging. It has matured in wood for 18 months gMerlot 70%, Cabernet Franc great concentrations of color, fruit, these wines have never impressed with 80 percent new oak. me and so I am unable to 30% tannin, and extract. With time it can RED Since the introduction of recommend them. k6–25 years also achieve great finesse and temperature-controlled fermentation complexity. gMerlot 75%, Cabernet Franc 25% and a second wine in 1985, some gMerlot 65%, Cabernet Franc critics have believed the quality of CHÂTEAU 30%, Cabernet Sauvignon 5% CHÂTEAU this wine to be on a par with that of VILLEMAURINE a premier grand cru classé, but for k12–35 years LA TOUR DU PIN FIGEAC me, Troplong Mondot came on Grand Cru Classé (Moueix) Second wine: Clos de la Tonnelle board with the sensational 1988, Château Villemaurine belongs to Grand Cru Classé Robert Giraud, which is a négociant cb 1989, 1990, 1992, and 1996 (those in CHÂTEAU TERTRE between being merely excellent!). concern owning not only this This property is one of the best of DAUGAY g property, but also some 20 other the grands crus classés. It is now Merlot 65%, Cabernet Franc Grand Cru Classé petits châteaux in various Bordeaux part of the Armand Moueix stable of and Malbec 20%, Cabernet c Sauvignon 15% districts. The wine is matured in châteaux. The wine is matured in wood for 18 to 24 months, with 50 This property was purchased in wood for 12 to 15 months, with k4–8 years percent new oak. 1978 by Comte Léo de Malet- one-third new oak. Second wine: Mondot Roquefort, the owner of premier RED These are full-bodied wines of RED These consistently well-made grand cru classé Château la excellent, spicy Merlot fruit, good wines always show a beautiful Gaffelière. The wine of Château underlying oak, and firm structure. balance of spicy-juicy Merlot fruit, Tertre Daugay, which is matured in CHÂTEAU TROTTEVIEILLE g creamy oak, and supple tannin. Merlot 70%, Cabernet wood with one-third new oak, is Premier Grand Cru Classé (B) Sauvignon 30% gMerlot 60%, Cabernet Franc cb excellent and is getting better by the k8–25 years vintage. 30%, Cabernet Sauvignon and This property has the reputation of Other wines: Maurinus, Beausoleil RED These wines are rich, plump, Malbec 10% producing a star wine every five and fruity with a fine bouquet, ripe k6–15 years years or so, interspersed by very mediocre wines indeed, but has underlying oak, great finesse, and CHÂTEAU YON-FIGEAC surprising longevity. been made very consistent since CHÂTEAU TRIMOULET Grand Cru Classé gMerlot 60%, Cabernet Franc 1985, and now makes true premier Grand Cru Classé grand cru classé quality wine every c 30%, Cabernet Sauvignon 10% c year. The wine is matured in wood This is an important property k7–20 years This is an old property overlooking for 18 months, with up to 100 situated near Pomerol. The wine Second wine: De Roquefort St.-Georges–St.-Émilion. The wine is percent new oak. is matured for 18 months with Other wines: Moulin du Biguey matured in wood for 12 months, RED The quality has dramatically 100 percent new oak. with 100 percent new oak. improved since the mid-1980s. It RED This wine was merely CHÂTEAU TERTRE- RED This well-colored wine has an has fabulous Merlot-fruit richness attractive and easy-to-drink until RÔTEBOEUF overtly ripe and fruity aroma, lots of with new oak and the power of a 1997, since when it has shown cc creamy-oaky character, a fruit flavor, true premier grand cru classé. admirable concentration of rich, and supple tannin. gMerlot 50%, Cabernet Franc spicy fruit of increasing complexity François Mitjavile’s cult wine is yet and finesse. more proof that the only important gMerlot 60%, Cabernet Franc 40%, Cabernet Sauvignon 10% classification is made by the 20%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20% k8–25 years (successful gMerlot 80%, Cabernet Franc 20% consumer. This was considered to k7–20 years years only) k6–20 years be outrageously expensive before Mondotte. The price has not gone down, but in France you can get four or five bottles of Tertre- THE BEST OF THE REST Rôteboeuf for the cost of one bottle of Mondotte. With more than a thousand châteaux in this one out for either for quality or value, sometimes both. RED Huge, oaky, complex, and district, it not practical to feature every Those marked with a star sometimes produce wines cultish: the Leonetti of St.-Émilion! recommendable wine, thus I list here the best of the that are better than many grands crus classés. rest: châteaux that consistently make wine that stands gCabernet Franc 20%, Merlot 80% k5–20 years Château Bard-Haut *Château Fleur Cardinale Clos Labarde *Château Petit Val CHÂTEAU Château du Barry *Château Fleur-Cravignac Château Lapelletrie Château Peyreau LA TOUR FIGEAC *Château Belregard-Figeac Château la Fleur Pourret *Château Laroque *Château Pindefleurs *Château Carteau Côtes *Château Fombrauge *Château Magnan la *Château Plaisance Grand Cru Classé Daugay Château Franc Bigoroux Gaffelière Château de Pressac cb *Château Le Castelot Château Grand Barrail Château Martinet Château Puy Razac This property was attached to *Château Le Châtelet Lamarzelle-Figeac Clos des Menuts Château Roc Blanquant Château Figeac in 1879 and today it Château Cheval Noir Château Grand Champs *Château Monbousquet *Château Rolland is one of the best of the grands *Château la Commanderie *Château la Grave Figeac *Château Moulin-St.-Georges *Château Rolland-Maillet crus classés. The wine is matured in *Château Destieux *Château Haut Brisson Château Patris Château Sansonnet wood for 18 months, with one-third *Château Faugères *Château Haut Plantey *Château Pavillon Figeac *Château Teyssier new oak. Château de Ferrand *Château Haut-Pontet *Château Petit-Figeac Château Tour St.- RED These are fat and supple *Château la Fleur *Haut-Quercus Château Petit-Gravet Christophe wines with a very alluring bouquet 120 FRANCE POMEROL

The most velvety and sensuous clarets are FACTORS AFFECTING TASTE AND QUALITY produced in Pomerol, yet the traveler passing through this small and rural area, with its LOCATION with gravel in the east and clay in HPomerol is a small rural area the north and center. The château dilapidated farmhouses at every turn, few true on the western extremity of the of Pétrus lies in the very center of St.-Émilion district, just northeast of the Pomerol-Figeac graves, on a châteaux and no really splendid ones, must Libourne. unique geological formation of sandy-clay over molasse CLIMATE wonder how this uninspiring area can produce (sandstone). FThe same as for St.-Émilion such magnificently expensive wines. (see p.113). VITICULTURE AND JVINIFICATION ASPECT E Some of Pomerol’s châteaux use a THE PROSPERITY OF RECENT YEARS has enabled Pomerol’s This modest mound, with proportion of vin de presse properties to indulge in more than just an extra lick of paint, but Château Pétrus and Château Vieux according to the requirement of the Certan situated at its center, is the vintage. At Pétrus, the vin de presse renovation can only restore, not create, and Pomerol essentially eastern extension of the Pomerol- remains an area with an air of obscurity. Even Château Pétrus, is added earlier than is normal Figeac graves (gravelly terrain). The practice, in order to allow it to which is the greatest growth of Pomerol and produces what for vines grow on slightly undulating 1 mature with the rest of the wine— the last 20 years has been consistently the world’s most expensive slopes that, over a distance of 1 ⁄4 this is believed to reduce harshness. miles (2 km), descend from The duration of skin-contact is wine, is nothing more than a simple farmhouse. between 115 and 130ft above sea There has been no attempt to publish an official classification of usually between 15 and 21 days, level (35–40 m) to 33 ft (10 m). but is sometimes as brief as 10 days Pomerol wines, but Vieux Château Certan was considered to be SOIL or as long as four weeks. The its best wine in the 19th century. Today, however, Pétrus is DPomerol’s soil is sandy to the wines stay in cask for between 18 universally accepted as the leading growth. It commands prices west of the national highway and to and 20 months. that dwarf those of wines such as Mouton and Margaux, so could the east, where the best properties GRAPE VARIETIES not be denied a status equivalent to that of a premier cru. Indeed, are situated on the sandy-gravel soil GPrimary varieties: Cabernet of the Pomerol-Figeac graves. The Le Pin has become considerably more expensive than Pétrus itself. Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot subsoil consists of an iron-pan Secondary varieties: Malbec If, like the 1885 classification, we classify Pomerol according to known as crasse de fer or machefer, price, next would come Lafleur, followed by a group including L’Evangile, La Fleur Pétrus, La Conseillante, Trotanoy, and a few others, all of which can cost as much as a Médoc First Growth. It is difficult to imagine, but Pomerol was ranked as an inferior sub-appellation of St.- Ch. Château Trotanoy Moulinet Émilion until it obtained its independent Ch. de Sales status in 1900. Even then it was a long MARCHESSEAU Vieux Château Certan hard struggle, since even Pétrus did not Château Clos l’Eglise NÉAC become sought after until the mid-1960s. b Bar anne

D910 Ch. Rouget Néac Ch. Ch. la Grave l'Enclos Trigant de Boisset Pont Ch. Latour-a-` de Cloquet Pomerol Ch. Ch. le Gay Close René Ch. Clos l'Eglise Ch. la-Croix-de-Gay POMEROL Ch. l'Eglise Ch. Ch. la Fleur-du-Gazin Clinet la Fleur Ch. Ch. Pétrus Ch. Gazin Pomerol Lagrange N89 Ch. la Fleur Maillet Ch. Bourgneuf Ch. Trotanoy Ch. Certan Pétrus Vayron Ch. la Giraud Violette BEAUSÉJOUR Ch. Certan-de-May Ch. Clos du Vieux Château Certan is Te auva mp Clocher M s Ch. le Pin u Ch. BONALGUE d Ch. Ch. l'Evangile seau la Pointe Petit Ruis Village Ch. Nenin Ch. la Conseillante CATUSSSEAU e l s I la Brandaude Ch. la Fleur du Roy

N89 Libourne Château Petit Village ST-EMILION Château la Pointe la Bordette

as The best château u Taill D243 u d ea Other outstanding châteaux iss Ru Château Petrus THE VINEYARDS OF VIEUX Selected great châteaux CHÂTEAU CERTAN Communal boundary 1 After Château Pétrus, this is one of the POMEROL, see also p108 0 /2 mile best wine-producing properties in The sleepy area of Pomerol and Lalande-de-Pomerol fans out above the riverside 0 1km Pomerol. A quaint signpost marks town of Libourne. None of the so-called “châteaux” is particularly imposing: the boundary of the vineyard. among the most attractive are Château Nénin and Vieux Château Certan. BORDEAUX - THE LIBOURNAIS AND FRONSADAIS - POMEROL 121

THE WINE PRODUCERS OF POMEROL

CHÂTEAU CHÂTEAU LA CABANNE CLOS DU CLOCHER If Pétrus is rated a “megastar,” this BEAUREGARD c cbV property must be rated at least a “superstar” in the interests of This is a fine estate producing This belongs to the Libournais cb fairness. The wine is matured in increasingly better wine. The wine négociant Audy. The wine is rotated An American architect who visited wood for 20 to 24 months, with 50 is matured in wood for 18 months, in thirds between new oak, one- Pomerol after World War I built a percent new oak. replica of Beauregard called “Mille with one-third new oak. year-old casks, and vat, and is one RED This wine has all the power Fleurs” on Long Island, New York. RED These medium-bodied, of the most undervalued Pomerols. and concentration of the greatest Quality changed dramatically at sometimes full-bodied, wines have RED These are deliciously deep- wines of Pomerol, but its priorities Beauregard in 1985, two years fine, rich, chocolaty fruit. colored, attractive, medium-bodied, before the arrival of Michel Rolland, sometimes full-bodied, wines that are its mindblowing finesse and gMerlot 60%, Cabernet Franc complexity. who followed 1985’s superb wine 30%, Malbec 10% have plenty of plump, ripe fruit, a with others and was generally supple structure, intriguing vanilla gCabernet Franc 45%, Merlot responsible for turning this château k7–20 years undertones, and plenty of finesse. 45%, Malbec 10% around. The wine is matured in Second wine: Domaine de gMerlot 80%, Cabernet 20% k10–30 years wood for 24 months with 60 Compostelle k8–20 years percent new oak. CHÂTEAU LA CROIX RED Firm, elegant, and lightly rich CHÂTEAU CERTAN DE MAY Second wine: Esprit de Clocher c wine with floral-cedarwood fruit. DE CERTAN Other wine: Château Monregard- This property’s wine is matured in gMerlot 48%, Cabernet Franc cc Lacroix wood for 20 to 24 months. 44%, Cabernet Sauvignon 6%, This can be a confusing wine to CLOS L’ÉGLISE Malbec 2% identify because the “De May de RED These attractive wines are cb quite full-bodied, yet elegant and k5–10 years Certan” part of its name is in very small type on the label and it is There are several “Église” properties quick-maturing, with fine, spicy Second wine: Le Benjamin de usually referred to as “Château in Pomerol. The wine from this one Merlot fruit. Beauregard Certan de May.” It is matured in is matured in wood for 24 months, gMerlot 60%, Cabernet wood for 24 months, with 50 with some new oak. Sauvignon 20%, Cabernet Franc CHÂTEAU percent new oak. RED A consistently attractive wine 20% BONALGUE RED This is a firm and tannic wine with elegant, spicy Merlot fruit and k5–10 years firm structure; it is eventually This small property lies on gravel that has a powerful bouquet Second wine: Le Gabachot dominated by violet Cabernet and sand northwest of Libourne. bursting with fruit, spice, and perfumes. The wine is matured in wood. vanilla. CHÂTEAU g RED This medium- to full-bodied gMerlot 65%, Cabernet Franc Merlot 55%, Cabernet LA CROIX DE GAY 25%, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon 25%, Cabernet Franc wine has always been of c respectable quality with a frank Malbec 10% 20% This property is situated in the attack of refreshing fruit flavors, a k15–35 years k6–15 years north of Pomerol on sandy-gravel supple tannin structure, and a crisp Second wine: La Petite Église soil, and the wine is matured in finish. CHÂTEAU CLINET wood for 18 months, with up to 100 gMerlot 65%, Cabernet Franc cb CLOS RENÉ percent new oak. and Cabernet Sauvignon 30%, This wine, which is matured in cV RED Used to be somewhat Malbec 5% wood with one-third new oak, has This property is situated just south lightweight, but attractive, with k5–10 years undergone a revolution in recent of l’Enclos on the western side of easy-drinking qualities, the fruit in Second wine: Burgrave years. It used to disappoint those the N89. The wine is matured in Croix de Gay has plumped-up in looking for the typically fat, gushy- wood for 24 months with up to 15 recent vintages. juicy style of Pomerol, and critics percent new oak. An underrated gMerlot 80%, Cabernet CHÂTEAU LE BON often blamed this on the wine’s wine, it represents good value. high proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon 10%, Cabernet Franc PASTEUR RED These wines have a splendid 10% Sauvignon. The 1985 vintage was spicy-blackcurrant bouquet, plenty c more promising (a touch plumper k4–8 years This good and steadily improving of fine plummy fruit on the palate, than previous vintages, with more and a great deal of finesse. They are Other wines: Château le wine is matured in wood for 24 juicy character), so Clinet’s previous Commandeur, Vieux-Château- months, with 35 percent new oak. sometimes complex in structure, lack of typical Pomerol character and are always of excellent quality. Groupey RED These intensely colored, full- was evidently not entirely due to gMerlot 60%, Cabernet Franc bodied, complex wines are packed the blend of grape varieties, CHÂTEAU with cassis, plum, and black-cherry 30%, Malbec 10% although the vineyard has since LA CROIX-ST-GEORGES flavors. undergone a radical change in k6–12 years c gMerlot 75%, Cabernet Franc varietal proportions. There was talk Other wine: Moulinet-Lasserre 25% of a turnaround in quality beginning Under the same ownership as with the 1986 vintage, but it was not Château La Croix-de-Gay, this wine k8–25 years CHÂTEAU LA until the stunning 1989 and 1990 CONSEILLANTE is matured in wood for 18 months, vintages that we really saw this wine with 100 percent new oak. ccb CHÂTEAU take off. There has, however, been RED Rich, soft and seductive. BOURGNEUF-VAYRON inconsistency, going through phases of better, and not so good, quality, gMerlot 95%, Cabernet Franc 5% bV although currently on the up. k4–10 years This property is situated close to RED Château Clinet is now Other wines: Château le Château Trotanoy. It has an producing exceedingly fine, rich, Commandeur, Vieux-Château- honorable, if not exciting, record ripe wine with ample, yet supple Groupey and a 25-acre (10-hectare) vineyard. tannin structure mixed with oaky RED Made in a quick-maturing style tannins to produce a creamy-herbal- CHÂTEAU with soft fruit and a light herbal menthol complexity. DU DOMAINE DE L’ÉGLISE finish. gMerlot 75%, Cabernet This is the oldest estate in Pomerol. gMerlot 85%, Cabernet Franc Sauvignon 15%, Cabernet Franc The wine is matured in wood for 18 15% 10% to 24 months, with one-third new k4–8 years k7–20 years oak. 122 FRANCE

RED This is another attractive, CHÂTEAU FEYTIT-CLINET RED This is a well-colored wine essentially elegant wine that is light c with a rich, plummy-porty bouquet, in weight and fruit. J.-P. Moueix, who is not this cassis fruit, a toasty-coffee oak gMerlot 90%, Cabernet Franc château’s owner, does produce the complexity and great finesse. 10% wine and sells it on an exclusivity gCabernet Franc 50%, Merlot k4–8 years basis. Some vines are over 70 years 50% old. The wine is matured in wood k10–25 years for 18 to 22 months. CHÂTEAU L’ÉGLISE-CLINET Second Wine: tLes Pensées de cc RED Consistently well-colored and Lafleur stylish wines that are full of juicy plum and black-cherry flavors. CHÂTEAU LAFLEUR-GAZIN gMerlot 80%, Cabernet Franc c 20% This property has been run by the k7–15 years J.-P. Moueix team on behalf of its owners since 1976. It produces a CHÂTEAU LA FLEUR-DE- wine that is matured in wood for 18 GAY to 22 months. cb RED Well-made wines of good Owned by the Raynaud family, with with up to one-third new oak. color and bouquet, supple structure, the ubiquitous Michel Rolland and some richness and RED Marvelously ripe and rich wine concentration. consulting, this wine is matured in with plump fruit. It should have a wood for 18 months, with 100 great future. gMerlot 70%, Cabernet Franc percent new oak. 30% gMerlot 80%, Cabernet Franc RED Big, concentrated fuit 15%, Cabernet Sauvignon 5% k6–15 years underpinned by firm tannic structure. k8–20 years CHÂTEAU LAGRANGE gMerlot 100% Second Wine: Hospitalet de Gazin The wine produced by Château cV L’Église-Clinet, which is matured in k8–20 years CHÂTEAU LA GRAVE Not to be confused with its wood for up to 24 months with as namesake in St.-Julien, this property c much as 50 percent new oak, is fast CHÂTEAU LA belongs to the firm J.-P. Moueix. The gravelly vineyard of this becoming one of the most exciting FLEUR-PÉTRUS The wine is aged in wood for 18 to property has an excellent location. 22 months, with some new oak. Pomerols. Quality in overdrive since cc The Trignant de Boisset element of RED The recent vintages of this the 1990s. Château La Fleur-Pétrus, producer of this château’s name has been full-bodied wine have been very RED These are deeply colored one of the best Pomerols, is situated dropped. It is owned by Christian impressive, with an attractive and wines with a rich, seductive bouquet close to Château Pétrus, but on soil Moueix and farmed by J.-P. Moueix. accessible style. and a big, fat flavr bursting with that is more gravelly. Ten acres The wine is matured in wood with spicy blackcurrant fruit and filled (four hectares) of Château le Gay 25 percent new oak. gMerlot 90%, Cabernet Franc with creamy-vanilla oak complexity. 10% were purchased in 1994 and RED Supple, rich and fruity, gMerlot 80%, Cabernet Franc incorporated in this property, medium-bodied wines of increasing k8–20 years 20% fattening out the style. The wine is finesse. matured in wood for 18 to 22 k8–30 years CHÂTEAU months. gMerlot 85%, Cabernet Franc Second Wine: La Petite l’Église 15% LATOUR À POMEROL RED Although recent vintages are relatively big and fat, these k7–15 years ccV essentially elegant wines rely more Château Latour à Pomerol now CHÂTEAU L’ENCLOS on exquisiteness than richness. They CHÂTEAU HOSANNA belongs to the last surviving sister of cV are silky, soft, and supple. Madame Loubat, Madame Lily cbV Lacoste (owner of one-third of The vineyard is situated on an gMerlot 80%, Cabernet Franc This property was called Château extension of the sandy-gravel soil Château Pétrus). The wine is matured 20% Certan-Marzelle until 1956 and was in wood with 25 percent new oak. from the better side of the N89. The purchased in 1999 by Jean-Paul k6–20 years RED These deep, dark wines are wine is matured in wood for 20 Moueix, with Christian Moueix in luscious, voluptuous, and velvety. months, with a little new oak. control. Almost immediately 10 CHÂTEAU LE GAY They have a great concentration of RED These are deliciously soft, rich, acres (four hectares) of less well- fruit and a sensational complexity of and voluptuous wines, full of cV positioned vineyards were sold to flavors. plump, juicy Merlot fruit and spice. This is another château exclusive to Nénin and strict selection imposed the Libournais négociant J.-P. gMerlot 80%, Cabernet Franc on the 1999 vintage. Watch this gMerlot 90%, Cabernet Franc Moueix. The wine is matured in 19%, Malbec 1% space! The wine is matured in wood 10% wood for 18 to 22 months. for 24 months, with 15 percent new k7–15 years k12–35 years RED Firm and ripe, this big wine is oak. packed with dense fruit and coffee- RED These ripe, voluptuous wines CHÂTEAU MAZEYRES toffee oak. CHÂTEAU L’ÉVANGILE become darker and denser since c gMerlot 70%, Cabernet Franc 1999. ccb Two-thirds of this wine is matured 30% gMerlot 67%, Cabernet Franc Situated close to two superstars of in wood with 40 percent new oak, k10–25 years Pomerol, Vieux Château Certan and and Cabernet Sauvignon 33% and one-third is aged in vat. k8–20 years RED These elegant wines are rich, Château la Conseillante, this château CHÂTEAU GAZIN produces stunning wines that are Second Wine: Clos du Roy ripe, and juicy, and have silky Merlot fruit and some oaky finesse. matured in wood for 15 months cbV Other wines: Château Certan- with 40 percent new oak. This château’s record was Marzelle gMerlot 70%, Cabernet Franc RED Dark but not brooding, these disappointing until the stunning 30% 1985 vintage, and it has been on a fruity wines are rich and packed CHÂTEAU LAFLEUR k5–12 years with summer fruits and cedarwood. roll ever since, having abandoned More Merlot and new oak since harvesting by machine, introduced ccb CHÂTEAU MOULINET 1998 has given the wine more new, thermostatically controlled This property has a potential for generosity. vats, and employed various quality- quality second only to Château cV enhancing practices, not the least Pétrus itself, but it has a very This large estate belongs to Armand gMerlot 78%, Cabernet Franc being a second wine, which enables inconsistent record. The quality and Moueix. The wine is matured in 32% stricter selection of grapes. The wine concentration of the wines have wood for 18 months, with one-third k8–20 years is matured in wood for 18 months soared since 1985. new oak. BORDEAUX - THE LIBOURNAIS AND FRONSADAIS - POMEROL 123

RED These red wines are produce intensely colored, bouquet and elegant flavor. Fat and gMerlot 90%, Cabernet Franc attractively supple with a light, superconcentrated wines that would rich, with good structure and lots of 10% creamy-ripe fruit and oak flavor. otherwise be too harsh to drink. ripe fruit, they are at their most k15–35 years gMerlot 60%, Cabernet gMerlot 95%, Cabernet Franc 5% impressive when mature. Sauvignon 30%, Cabernet Franc k20–50 years gMerlot 90%, Cabernet Franc VIEUX CHÂTEAU CERTAN 10% 10% ccb k5–10 years CHÂTEAU LE PIN k10–25 years cc CHÂTEAU DE SALES CHÂTEAU NÉNIN This tiny property was purchased in c 1979 by the late Jacques Thienpont. bV A large and well-known property The yield is very low, the wine is At 119 acres (48 hectares), this is between Catussau and the outskirts fermented in stainless steel and easily the largest property in the of Libourne. The wine has had a matured in wood for 18 months Pomerol appellation. It is situated in disappointing record, but there has with 100 percent new oak. the very northwest of the district. been a noticeable improvement RED These oaky wines are very Despite an uneven record, it has since this property was purchased full-bodied, and powerfully aromatic demonstrated its potential and by Jean-Hubert Delon in 1997, who with a sensational spicy-cassis flavor inherent qualities on many added 10 acres (four hectares) from dominated by decadently rich, occasions and the wine, which is Certan-Giraud. creamy-toffee, toasty-coffee oak. matured in wood for 18 months with 35 percent new oak, is one to RED No similarity to Nenin of the Those who are not convinced by Le Pin keep asking whether there is watch for the future. This was once regarded as the past, vintages from 1998 onward finest-quality growth in Pomerol. have been increasingly full, deep, enough concentration in these RED When successful, these wines wines to match the oak; my guess have a penetrating bouquet and a It has not so much dropped its and concentrated, with a lush, standards as witnessed the rapid rise opulent fruit, and a silky finish. is that there is, and that their palate jam-packed with deliciously wonderfully voluptuous style belies juicy flavors of succulent stone fruits of a new star—Pétrus—and all its g Merlot 75%, Cabernet Franc their true size and structure, but it such as plums, black cherries, and pretenders. Vieux Château Certan 25% will be a long time before we really apricots. remains one of Bordeaux’s great k5–18 years know the answer. wines. This wine is matured in gMerlot 70%, Cabernet Franc wood for 18 to 24 months with up Second Wine: tFugue de Nenin gMerlot 100% 15%, Cabernet Sauvignon 15% to 60 percent new oak. k10–40 years k7–20 years RED This is an attractive, garnet- CHÂTEAU PETIT-VILLAGE Second wine: Château colored, full-bodied wine that has a cc CHÂTEAU PLINCE Chantalouette smouldering, smooth, and mellow This property borders Vieux cV Other wine: Château de Délias flavor. It displays great finesse and Château Certan and Château La This property is owned by the complexity of structure. Conseillante, and it therefore has Moreau family, but its wines are CHÂTEAU DU TAILHAS gMerlot 50%, Cabernet Franc the advantage of a superb terroir sold by the Libournais négociant J.- The wines of this château are 25%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20%, and a meticulous owner. The result P. Moueix. It is matured in vats for matured in wood for 18 months Malbec 5% is a wine of superstar quality, even six months and in wood for 18 with 50 percent new oak. k12–35 years in poor years. Petit-Village is months, with 15 percent new oak. matured in wood for 18 months RED Consistently attractive, with Second wine: La Gravette de These wines are fat, ripe, and with at least 50 percent of the casks RED silky Merlot fruit and creamy oak. Certan simply ooze with juicy Merlot flavor. made from new oak. gMerlot 80%, Cabernet Franc Although they could not be CHÂTEAU LA VIOLETTE RED These wines seem to have described as aristocratic, they are 10%, Cabernet Sauvignon 10% everything. Full and rich with lots of simply delicious. k5–12 years b color and unctuous fruit, they have gMerlot 75%, Cabernet Franc In the same way as Château Laroze a firm structure of ripe and supple in St.-Émilion is said to be named 20%, Cabernet Sauvignon 5% CHÂTEAU TAILLEFER tannins and a luscious, velvety after its aroma of roses, so this This potentially excellent property texture. Classic, complex, and k4–8 years château is named after its aroma of belongs to Bernard Moueix. The complete. violets—or so the story goes. It is wines are matured in wood for CHÂTEAU LA POINTE located in Catussau and its gMerlot 80%, Cabernet Franc between 18 and 22 months, with vineyards are scattered around the 10%, Cabernet Sauvignon 10% V the addition of some new oak. commune. The wine, matured in k8–30 years After hoping that the mid-1980s RED At best these wines are wood for up to 24 months, can be would prove to be a turning point attractively light and fruity, revealing in the reputation of this important inconsistent, but I think it has great CHÂTEAU PÉTRUS their potential, but more often than potential. château, it now seems that this did not they are simply light and dilute. ccc I have not tasted this wine as not happen until 1998, although The 2000 was the best vintage this RED The Libournais négociant Jean- frequently as I would like, but I can there is still a lot of room for château has produced, but it was Pierre Moueix was in technical enthusiastically recommend the best improvement before La Pointe can very difficult not to make fine wine control of this estate from 1947 until vintages, when they have a rich and be described as a truly lush that year. his death at the age of 90 in March Pomerol. jubilant flavor of Merlot fruit, which 2003. Before the previous owner, gMerlot 55%, Cabernet Franc RED Lightweight, lackluster wines is ripe and fat. Madame Loubat, died in 1961, she 30%, Cabernet Sauvignon 15% until 1998, when they have shown gMerlot 95%, Cabernet Franc 5% gave one-third of Pétrus to more fruit, with plummy-chocolaty k4–8 years Monsieur Moueix. She had no k5–15 years overtones. Getting there. Second wine: Clos Toulifaut children, just two sisters who were gMerlot 80%, Cabernet Franc CHÂTEAU not on the best of terms, so CHÂTEAU TROTANOY Madame Loubat wisely gave Moueix 15%, Malbec 5% VRAY CROIX DE GAY the means of ensuring that family k5–12 years ccb A small property on good gravelly disagreements would not be able to Second wine: La Pointe Riffat Some consider this to be second soil next to Château le Gay and harm the day-to-day running of only to Château Pétrus, although in under the same ownership as Château Pétrus. In 1964 Moueix CHÂTEAU ROUGET terms of price L’Évangile and Lafleur Château le Prieuré. The wine is purchased one of the other two have overtaken it. The wine is matured in wood in 18 months. shares and his family has controlled bV matured in wood for up to 24 the destiny of this world-famous One of the oldest properties in months, with 50 percent new oak. RED The wine can be full, rich, chocolate- and black-cherry- château ever since. Pomerol. The proprietor also owns RED This inky-black, brooding the neighboring estate of Vieux flavored, with the best vintages RED The low acidity of Château wine has a powerful bouquet and a showing more fat and oak. Pétrus makes it an intrinsically soft Château des Templiers. The wine is rich flavor, which is supported by a wine which, when combined with matured in wood for 24 months. firm tannin structure and a complex, gMerlot 80%, Cabernet Franc the inherent lusciousness of the RED Château Rouget produces creamy-toffee, spicy-coffee oak 15%, Cabernet Sauvignon 5% Merlot grape, enables Pétrus to excellent red wines with a fine character. k5–10 years 124 FRANCE

THE WINE PRODUCERS OF THE FRONSADAIS AND THE SAINT-ÉMILION AND POMEROL SATELLITES

CHÂTEAU D’AIGUILHE CHÂTEAU CANON DE CHÂTEAU DE CLOTTE CHÂTEAU FONTENIL AOC Bordeaux-Côtes-de-Castillon BREM AOC Bordeaux-Côtes-de-Castillon and AOC Fronsac bV AOC Côtes Canon-Fronsac AOC Bordeaux Supérieur cbV Purchased in 1998 by Stephan Von cV Côtes-de-Castillon This rich, velvety 90 percent Merlot Neipperg, who has restored the No longer owned by J.-P. Moueix, cV high-flyer has heavy helpings of property. One to watch. Château Canon de Brem was sold This property has the right to both new oak and is from Michel Second wine: Seigneurs d’Aiguihle to a member of the Carrefour family the Côtes-de-Castillon and Côtes-de- Rolland’s own property. in September 2000. It produces fine, Francs appellations, but uses only CHÂTEAU DES firm, and flavorsome vins de garde the former. CHÂTEAU ANNEREAUX that are deep-colored and powerful, GRAND ORMEAU yet complex and spicy. CHÂTEAU AOC Lalande-de-Pomerol AOC Lalande-de-Pomerol Second wine: Château Pichelèbre LA CROIX CANON Attractive, fruity, medium-bodied cV wines of some elegance. AOC Côtes Canon-Fronsac A rich and lusciously fruity wine CHÂTEAU bV that is matured in 50 percent new CHÂTEAU BARRABAQUE CANON MOUEIX Another former Moueix property oak, Grand Ormeau is very classy for its appellation. AOC Côtes Canon-Fronsac AOC Côtes Canon-Fronsac that has sold to a member of the bV cV Carrefour family and yet remains Second wine: Château d’Haurange managed by the established team. Situated on the mid-côte, this 70 Sold to a member of the Carrefour family in September 2000, this Attractive, Merlot-dominated wines CHÂTEAU GRAND-BARIL percent Merlot has really shone are full of juicy fruit. since the late 1990s. property was known as Château AOC Montagne-St.-Émilion Pichelèbre until 1985, when it was Attractive, fruity wine made by the purchased by J.-P. Moueix. Although CHÂTEAU DU COURLAT CHÂTEAU BEL-AIR agricultural school in Libourne. under new ownership, it is still AOC Lussac-St.-Émilion AOC Puisseguin-St.-Émilion managed by J.-P. Moueix; whether These are spicy-tannic wines with This property makes generous, the name remains is uncertain. CHÂTEAU good fruit flavors. fruity, early-drinking wines. GUIBEA U-LA FOURVIEILLE CHÂTEAU AOC Puisseguin-St.-Emilion CHÂTEAU DE BEL-AIR CAP DE MERLE CHÂTEAU cbV COUSTOLLE VINCENT AOC Lalande-de-Pomerol AOC Lussac-St.-Émilion Much investment has gone into this cV AOC Côtes Canon-Fronsac property, the wines of which are One of the best of the appellation, Château Coustolle Vincent’s wines now considered to be the best in this property has fine, sandy gravel. are well-flavored, and matured in Puisseguin. up to 20 percent new oak. Second wines: Le Vieux Château CHÂTEAU BELAIR- Guibeau, Château La Fourvieille MONTAIGUILLON CHÂTEAU DALEM AOC St.-Georges-St.-Émilion AOC Fronsac CHÂTEAU cV cbV HAUT-CHAIGNEAU Consistently rich, deliciously fruity. These soft and velvety wines AOC Lalande-de-Pomerol The best wine selected from old develop quickly but have finesse cV vines and matured in cask, and are among the very best of Look out for Château Le Sergue 1.5, including some new oak, is sold as their appellation. which is selected from this Château Belair-St.-Georges. property’s best wines and matured CHÂTEAU DE LA in 80 percent new oak. A poor CHÂTEAU DE BELCIER DAUPHINE man’s Mondotte? AOC Bordeaux-Côtes-de-Francs and AOC Fronsac Other wines: Château Le Sergue Bordeaux Supérieur Côtes-de-Francs This property has been sold to a This property produces fruity wines Château Cap de Merle is wine CHÂTEAU HAUT-CHATAIN guru Robert Parker’s best Lussac member of the Carrefour family, that can claim the Côtes de Castillon but is still run by the Moueix AOC Lalande-de-Pomerol or Côtes de Francs appellations. performer for the 1981, 1982, and 1983 vintages. team, which produces fresh and cbV fruity wines that mature in oak, Fat, rich, and juicy wines with CHÂTEAU CALON 20 percent of which is new. CHÂTEAU CARLES definite hints of new-oak vanilla are AOC Montagne-St.-Émilion and AOC made by Château Haut-Chatain. St.-George-St.-Émilion AOC Fronsac CHÂTEAU DURAND b cV LAPLAIGNE CHÂTEAU LES HAUTS- This château is under the same The producer’s primary wine is AOC Puisseguin-St.-Émilion CONSEILLANTS ownership as the grand cru classé attractive and juicy, but it is the cV 1.5 blockbusting 95 percent AOC Lalande-de-Pomerol Château Corbin-Michotte. The wine The excellent-quality wine produced Merlot selection which is sold as Château les Hauts-Conseillants is is good quality, with a juicy style, by Château Durand Laplaigne is Château Haut Carles that really another fine Néac property. and very Merlot in character. Part of grown using clay-and-limestone soil, stands out here. this vineyard falls within the St.- with a strict selection of grapes and Other wines: Château les Hauts- George-St.-Émilion area and this Other wine: Château Haut Carles modern vinification techniques. Tuileries (export label) produces the best wine. CHÂTEAU HAUT-TUQUET CHÂTEAU CANON CHÂTEAU CHÂTEAU CASSAGNE- LA FLEUR DE BOÜARD AOC Bordeaux-Côtes-de-Castillon and AOC Côtes Canon-Fronsac AOC Bordeaux Supérieur HAUT-CANON AOC Lalande-de-Pomerol cbV Côtes-de-Castillon AOC Côtes Canon-Fronsac cV This is one of several Fronsadais This wine is consistently good. properties formerly owned, and still cV Very good wines, getting much better since this property was managed by, J.-P. Moueix. It was Château Cassagne-Haut-Canon CHÂTEAU JEANDEMAN sold to a member of the Carrefour produces a selection of rich, full, purchased by the owner of Angelus family in September 2000. It fat, fruitcake-flavored wines that in 1998. AOC Fronsac produces the best wine in this are especially attractive when they Second wine: Château La Fleur St.- This château produces fresh, fruity appellation from 100 percent Merlot. are still young. Georges wine with good aroma. BORDEAUX -THE LIBOURNAIS AND FRONSADAIS - SAINT-ÉMILION AND POMEROL SATELLITES 125

CHÂTEAU CHÂTEAU regularly wins medals. appellation. The wine is big, full, JUNAYME MOULIN NEUF Other wines: La Palène, Coutet-St.- and fleshy, yet soft and easy to AOC Côtes Canon-Fronsac AOC Bordeaux-Côtes-de-Castillon and Magne drink. cV AOC Bordeaux Supérieur CHÂTEAU ROUDIER CHÂTEAU LA VALADE Well-known wines of finesse. Côtes-de-Castillon cV AOC Montagne-St.-Émilion AOC Fronsac CHÂTEAU These wines regularly win medals. cbV bV DES LAURETS Quality wines that are well-colored, Elegant, aromatic, and silky-textured CHÂTEAU richly flavored, finely balanced, and wines, which are made exclusively AOC Puisseguin-St.-Émilion LA PAPETERIE long and supple. from Merlot grapes. The appellation’s largest property. AOC Montagne-St.-Émilion Other wines: Château la Rochette, CHÂTEAU SIAURAC CHÂTEAU Wines with a rich nose and a big Château Maison Rose AOC Lalande-de-Pomerol LA VIEILLE CURE fruit-filled palate. Fine, firm, and fruity wines. AOC Fronsac CHÂTEAU cb DE LUSSAC CHÂTEAU DU PONT DE GUESTRES CHÂTEAU ST.-GEORGES Very fresh and velvety with delightful AOC Lussac-St.-Émilion AOC St.-Georges-St.-Émilion floral, summer fruit aromas, these AOC Lalande-de-Pomerol Château de Lussac produces well- cbV wines are at the very top of their cV balanced, early-drinking wine. Super quality wine of great finesse. appellation. The 1998 is stunning. This château produces full, ripe, fat CHÂTEAU wines of good quality. CHÂTEAU VIEUX- DU LYONNAT STE-COLOMBE CHÂTEAU-ST.-ANDRÉ CHÂTEAU AOC Lussac-St.-Émilion PUYCARPIN AOC Bordeaux-Côtes-de-Castillon AOC Montagne-St.-Émilion The appellation’s largest property. cV cbV AOC Bordeaux-Côtes-de-Castillon and This château was purchased in 1999 A soft, exciting wine, full of cherry, Other wines: La Rose Peruchon AOC Bordeaux Supérieur by Gérard Perse of Pavie et al and vanilla, and spice flavors. Côtes-de-Castillon CHÂTEAU Alain Reynaud of La Croix-de-Gay. This property produces a well-made CHÂTEAU MAISON BLANCHE These wines look very promising red, and a little dry white. indeed. LA VILLARS AOC Montagne-St.-Émilion CHÂTEAU DU PUY CHÂTEAU TARREYO AOC Fronsac Château Maison Blanche produces cV attractive wine that is easy to drink. AOC Bordeaux-Côtes-de-Francs and AOC Bordeaux-Côtes-de-Castillon and Soft, fat, and juicy wines of AOC Bordeaux Supérieur AOC Bordeaux Supérieur excellent quality, one-third of which Côtes-de-Francs Côtes-de-Castillon CHÂTEAU are matured in new oak. MAQUIN-ST.-GEORGES cV Château Tarreyo (Gascon for “knoll AOC St.-Georges-St.-Émilion Red wines from this property are of stones”) is sited on a limestone CHÂTEAU rustic and overtly fruity. mound, as its name suggests. This wine is 70 percent Merlot. VRAY-CANON-BOYER Other wines: Château Bellonne- CHÂTEAU PUYGUERAUD CHÂTEAU AOC Côtes Canon-Fronsac St-Georges THIBAUD-BELLEVUE AOC Bordeaux-Côtes-de-Francs and This château produces a fruity, AOC Bordeaux-Côtes-de-Castillon and medium-bodied wine that is CHÂTEAU MAUSSE AOC Bordeaux Supérieur Côtes-de-Francs AOC Bordeaux Supérieur attractive for early drinking from AOC Côtes Canon-Fronsac 90 percent Merlot grapes. Aromatically attractive wines with Côtes-de-Castillon Wines with good aroma and flavor. good color and supple fruit. Medium-bodied, fruity red wine.

CHÂTEAU CHÂTEAU CHÂTEAU MAYNE-VIEIL DE LA RIVIÈRE TOUMALIN AOC Fronsac AOC Fronsac AOC Côtes Canon-Fronsac Easy-drinking wines with good cbV Fresh, fruity wine from a property Merlot spice and fruit. Magnificent wines that are built to under the same ownership as last: they are rich, tannic, and fruity, Château La Pointe in Pomerol. CHÂTEAU MAZERIS and matured in up to 40 percent CHÂTEAU TOUR- AOC Côtes Canon-Fronsac new oak. DU-PAS-ST.-GEORGES There is an unusually high proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon CHÂTEAU ROBIN AOC St.-Georges-St.-Émilion in these wines. AOC Bordeaux-Côtes-de-Castillon and bV AOC Bordeaux Supérieur An excellent and inexpensive entrée CHÂTEAU MILON Côtes-de-Castillon into the world of premier cru claret. AOC Lussac-St.-Émilion bV cV Château Robin produces award- CHÂTEAU DES TOURELLES A château that produces a fine- winning red wines. quality, full, yet fragrant, wine. AOC Lalande-de-Pomerol CHÂTEAU LA ROCHE-GABY cV CHÂTEAU AOC Côtes Canon-Fronsac Fine wines with vanilla undertones. MONCETS cV AOC Lalande-de-Pomerol Château La Roche-Gaby produces CHÂTEAU cV intensely flavored, attractive, and TOURNEFEUILLE well-structured wines, which are AOC Lalande-de-Pomerol This Néac property makes a designed to have a long life. fine, rich, and elegant Pomerol cbV look-alike. CHÂTEAU ROCHER- This rich, long-lived wine is the best BELLEVUE of the appellation. CHÂTEAU AOC Bordeaux-Côtes-de-Castillon and MOULIN HAUT-LAROQUE AOC Bordeaux Supérieur CHÂTEAU DES TOURS AOC Fronsac Côtes-de-Castillon AOC Montagne-St.-Émilion Well-perfumed, rather fat wines with bV bV lots of fruit and good tannin. A good St-Émilion look-alike that The largest property in the 126 FRANCE BOURG AND BLAYE

Ninety-five percent of the wine produced in FACTORS AFFECTING TASTE AND QUALITY Bourg and Blaye is good-value red. Tiny Bourg LOCATION Blaye is clay or clay-limestone over makes more wine than its five-times-larger HThe vineyards fan out behind hard limestone on the hills the town of Bourg, which is situated overlooking the Gironde, getting neighbor, Blaye, and most of the vines grown in on the right bank of the confluence progressively sandier going east. Blaye come from a cluster of châteaux close to the of the Dordogne and the Garonne, some 12.5 miles (20 kilometers) JVITICULTURE AND borders of Bourg. north of Bordeaux. Blaye is a larger VINIFICATION district that unfolds beyond Bourg. There are many grape varieties here, some of which are far too CLIMATE inferior or unreliable to contribute AS ONE WOULD EXPECT of an area that has supported a FThese two areas are less to the quality of these wines, settlement for 400,000 years, Bourg has a close-knit community. protected than the Médoc from particularly the whites. Bourg Comparatively recently, the Romans used neighboring Blaye as a westerly and northwesterly winds, produces the best reds, Blaye the and have a higher rainfall. best whites, but there is relatively castrum, a fortified area in the defense system that shielded little white wine made in both ASPECT Bordeaux. According to some sources, the vine was cultivated in E appellations—even Blaye is 90 Bourg is very hilly with vines percent red and Bourg is in excess Bourg and Blaye as soon as the Romans arrived. Vineyards were cultivated on steep limestone hills certainly flourishing here long before those of the Médoc, just on of 99 percent red. Very few petits and knolls up to a height of 260 ft cháteaux in both areas can afford the other side of the Gironde. (80 m). In the southern section of the use of casks, let alone new Bourg is a compact, heavily cultivated area with pretty hillside Blaye the country is rich and hilly, ones, and much of the wine in vineyards at every turn. The vine is less important in Blaye, which with steep slopes overlooking the Bourg is made by one of its five Gironde that are really just a coopératives. has other interests, including a caviare industry based at its continuation of those in Bourg. The ancient fishing port where sturgeon is still a major catch. The northern areas are gentle and the GRAPE VARIETIES south-facing vineyards of Blaye are mostly clustered in the hills lower, with marshes bordering GPrimary varieties: Cabernet countryside immediately bordering Bourg and, despite the the viticultural areas. Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon similarity of the countryside, traditionally produce slightly inferior SOIL D Secondary varieties: Malbec, In Bourg the topsoil is clay- Prolongeau, Cahors, Béguignol limestone or clay-gravel over a hard (Fer), Petit Verdot, Merlot Blanc, 105 limestone subsoil, although in the Chartuzac Trignac Folle Blanche, Colombard, Chenin Pleine- east the subsoil sometimes gives Selve Courpignac blanc, Muscadelle, Ugni Blanc D18 D150 Se way to gravel and clay. The soil in 2 u Chamouillac gn D730 D19 e D152 St-Ciers- D145 sur-Gironde les 51 MONTENDRE les Ferrés Augirons D156 G Marcillac Jussas i D730 r St-Aubin o de Blaye Liv n e 26 nne d Braud-et- e Chepniers C St-Louis a Donnezac D145 Corignac n a D255 Reignac le de S t.-Ge Etauliers orge Ile de Anglade s Martinettes Bussac- D D18 132E D Forêt Patiras St- 32 N137 157 Androny le Pontet Eyrans Cartelégue le Jard de Camp de Saugon 60 Bussac Fours Bourdillas D Générac 145 St-Seurin- D937 de-Cursac N10 N137 les Drouillards Saye Ch. Segonzac Mazion Bédenac Coudurat Ch. Peyreve St-Paul St-Girons- Ch. les Moines St- Ch. Charron d'Aiguevives Savin D250 Ch. Crusquet-Sabourin Ch. les Petits-Arnauds D937 St-Christoly- St-Yzan- BLAYE Cars de-Soudiac Ch. la Braulterie-de-Payreau Ch. Crusquet-de-Lagaicie de-Blaye 57 D669 Ch. Bourdieu Ch. l'Escadre N1 St-Mariens Lamarque 37 51 Laruscade Berson D23 Ch. Mendoce Ile Verte Teuillac Ch. Marinier Cavignac Ch. de Barbe Ch. Haut-Guiraud D23

Ch. Peychaud Pugnac n Cézac Lapouyade o

Villeneuve Ch.Rousset r les Coureaux Gauriac Ch. Bégot o Ile du Ch. Tour-de- Ch. Guionne M Cubnezais Soussans Tourteau D18 Nord Ch. de la Grave Ch. Genibon Ch. Haut-Macô Marcenais Margaux Ch. Conilh-Libarde Ch. Guerry N10 Ch. Lalibarde Ch. Brulescaille St-Laurent 57 D105 Ile Ch. du Bousquet d'Arce Gauriaguet BOURG Ch. Croute- Peujard Cantenac Cazeau Courpon D2 Ch. Lidonne St-Antoine Périssac St-Gervais Saye Château Salignac Ambès D10 D18 Intensive vine- ST-ANDRÉ- THE TOWN OF BLAYE growing zone Vérac DE-CUBZAC D137 Galgon D670 The attractive fishing port of Blaye with, in the foreground, the ruins of its Blaye 82 ancient citadel guarding against the approach of marauders from the sea.

e n Cadillac-en- Bourg n o Fronsadais

r D911 D113 a Asques Height above G AMBARÈS-ET- sea level (metres) Dor LAGRAVE dogne BOURG AND BLAYE, see also p63 0 1 2 3 4 5 miles ST-LOUBÈS D242 Most of the best growths of Bourg and Blaye are clustered behind the respective A10 Fronsac 0 2 4 6 8 km ports that give this wine-producing area its name. Bourg, the smaller area, has BASSENS a higher concentration of vineyards and generally produces the better wines. BORDEAUX - BOURG AND BLAYE 127 wines to those of Bourg. The D18 highway appears to be a barrier beyond which the less intensely cultivated hinterland takes CHENIN BLANC IN BORDEAUX on a totally different topography, where the more expansive scenery is dotted with isolated forests. The Chenin Blanc of Loire fame (or infamy, as the case may be) is allowed in the white wines of Bourg, albeit restricted to a maximum of 10 THE POTENTIAL OF BOURG AND BLAYE percent. However, in the AOCs of Blayais and Côtes de Blaye (but not Premières Côtes de Blaye), this interloper from the north has a free run, To the Romans, these south-facing vineyards overlooking the or could have, if a producer wanted to market a pure Chenin Blanc Gironde seemed the ideal place to plant vines. Indeed, the quality varietal wine. I have never been a fan of Chenin Blanc in the Loire, achieved today in these vineyards would have surpassed the most except in those idyllic vintages when the sublime moelleux style can be optimistic hopes of those past masters of the vine. However, by produced in quantity, and it is very hard not to produce liquid magic. today’s expectations, Bourg and Blaye have been relegated to a The problem with Chenin in the Loire is that it grows like a weed, but rarely has the degree of sunshine this grape likes to luxuriate in. Combine viticultural backwater. This is a pity, since there are some exciting that with the inclination of far too many growers to overyield and season quality wines being made here. Perhaps when the world has it with those who have less than clinically clean vinification habits, and it woken up to the gems in Canon-Fronsac, more curious is clear why Loire Chenin, particularly dry Loire Chenin, has such a poor consumers might turn their attention to the better producers in reputation. On the other hand, even cheap, mass-produced Chenin Blanc wines in the New World have lovely ripe, tropical fruit flavors. Not all of this district. As soon as wine lovers are prepared to pay higher them, of course, the New World has its good, bad, and ugly too, but I prices for these wines, so its proprietors will be able to restrict believe that the longer hours of warmer sunshine in Bordeaux could yields, improve vinification techniques, and indulge in a produce some excellent dry Chenin wines. A pure Chenin Blanc Bordeaux percentage of new oak. would be a novelty.

VINEYARDS ALONG THE DORDOGNE AT BOURG The Romans planted these south-facing vineyards, believing this to be a far more ideal place to grow vines than on the other side of the confluence of the Dordogne and Garonne estuaries where, understandably, they failed to realize the possibilities of the Médoc concealed beyond its virtually impenetrable marshes.

CHÂTEAU SEGONZAC, ST.-GENÈS-DE-BLAYE A short distance from the fortress of Blaye, these sweeping vineyards belong to Château Segonzac, a wine estate created in 1887 by Jean Dupuy, the owner of the Petit Parisiane, the largest-circulation newspaper in the world at the time. 128 FRANCE

THE APPELLATIONS OF BOURG AND BLAYE

The number of appellations in this area, and Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle RED Excellent value wines of good color, their various differences, are very confusing for k1–2 years which are full of solid, fruity flavor. Many are the consumer. The system should be neatened very stylish indeed. up and there is no reason why just two AOCs— BOURG AOC gCabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Côtes de Blaye and Côtes de Bourg—could not Merlot, Malbec be used for all the wines produced here. Also called Bourgeais, this appellation, which covers both red and white wines, has fallen into k3–10 years BLAYAIS AOC disuse because the growers prefer to use the WHITE A very small quantity of this light, Côtes de Bourg AOC, which is easier to market dry wine is produced and sold each year. It See Blaye AOC but conforms to the same regulations. See also may be sold from December 1 following the Côtes de Bourg AOC. harvest without any mention of primeur or BLAYE AOC nouveau. Blaye or Blayais is a large and diverse BOUR GEAIS AOC gSémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle, appellation of variable quality. See Bourg AOC Merlot Blanc, Colombard, plus a maximum RED Few properties cultivate obscure varieties of 10% Chenin Blanc such as Prolongeau and Béguignol, thus many CÔTES DE BLAYE AOC k1–2 years utilize the prestigious sounding Premières Côtes de Blaye AOC; hence, hardly anyone bothers to Unlike the Bourg and Côtes de Bourg PREMIÈRES CÔTES sell the wine under this plain appellation. appellations, which cover red and white wines, Côtes de Blaye is white only. Blaye, however, DE BLAYE AOC g Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, may be red or white. This covers the same area as Blaye and Côtes Malbec, Prolongeau, Béguignol, Petit Verdot WHITE As much white Côtes de Blaye is de Blaye, but only classic grapes are used and k 3–7 years produced as basic Blaye. The wines are similar the minimum alcoholic strength is higher. The WHITE Since 1997 Ugni Blanc has dominated, in style and quality. area has very good potential for producing quality wines. with Merlot Blanc and Folle Blanche banned. gMerlot Blanc, Folle Blanche, Colombard, The ripeness level has been lowered from 170 Chenin Blanc, Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, RED There are one or two excellent properties to 153 grams of sugar, with no more than four Muscadelle that use a little new oak. grams residual allowed in the finished wine, k1–2 years gCabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and a maximum of 12.5 percent alcohol Malbec imposed, thus ensuring fresher, crisper wines. k4–10 years These wines may be sold from December 1 CÔTES DE BOURG AOC WHITE Dry, light-bodied wines that may have a following the harvest without any mention of Bourg is one-fifth the size of Blaye, yet it fresh, lively, grapey flavor. primeur or nouveau. traditionally produces a greater quantity and, gUgni Blanc plus up to 10% in total of Folle more importantly, a much finer quality of wine gSémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle Blanche, Colombard, Chenin Blanc, than that produced at Blaye. k1–2 years

THE WINE PRODUCERS OF BOURG

CHÂTEAU DE BARBE CHÂTEAU are consistently rich, midterm sur-Gironde, it produces a large Villeneuve CONILH-LIBARDE drinkers of no little finesse. quantity of light, fruity Malbec- influenced red wine and a very tiny Château de Barbe is a property that Bourg-sur-Gironde CHÂTEAU GÉNIBON amount of white. makes substantial quantities of light- Soft, fruity red wines are made at Bourg-sur-Gironde styled, Merlot-dominated, gently fruity this small vineyard overlooking CHÂTEAU GUERRY red wines that are easy to drink. Bourg-sur-Gironde and the river. This small vineyard produces attractive wines that have all the Tauriac bV CHÂTEAU BÉGOT CHÂTEAU enjoyment upfront and are easy to CROUTE-COURPON drink. Some 10,000 cases of really fine Lansac wood-aged red wines are produced This property produces some 5,000 Bourg-sur-Gironde CHÂTEAU GRAND-LAUNAY at this château. The wines have cases of agreeably fruity red wine, A small but recently enlarged estate, Teuillac good structure, bags of fruit, and a which is best drunk young. it produces honest, fruity red wines. bV smooth, elegant flavor. CHÂTEAU EYQUEM This property has been developed CHÂTEAU GUIONNE CHÂTEAU DU BOUSQUET from the vineyards of three estates: Bayon-sur-Gironde Lansac Bourg-sur-Gironde Domaine Haut-Launay, Château bV Owned by the serious winemaking Launay, and Domaine les Hermats. These are easy-drinking wines, full Bayle-Carreau family, which also Mainly red wine is produced, of attractive Merlot fruit, good juicy This large, well-known château owns several other properties, this although a very tiny amount of flavor, and some finesse. A little produces some 40,000 cases of red wine is not normally, however, white is also made. The star- white wine of some interest and wine of excellent value for money. purchased for its quality. It is performing wine at this château is a depth is also made. The wine is fermented in stainless enjoyable as a light luncheon claret, superb, special reserve cuvée of red steel and aged in oak, has a big but the real joy is in the spoof of that is sold under the Château Lion bouquet, and a smooth feel. CHÂTEAU HAUT-MACÔ serving a red “Yquem.” Noir label. Tauriac CHÂTEAU BRULESCAILLE CHÂTEAU FALFAS CHÂTEAU DE LA GRAVE This rustic red wine is full of rich, fruity flavors, and good acidity. The Tauriac Bourg-sur-Gironde Bourg-sur-Gironde proprietors also own a property Château Brulescaille’s vineyards are BbV bV called Domaine de Lilotte in Bourg- very well-sited and produce Owned by John and Vonique An important property situated on sur-Gironde producing attractive, agreeable wines for early drinking. Cochran, whose biodynamic wines one of the highest points of Bourg- early-drinking red wines under the BORDEAUX - BOURG AND BLAYE 129

Bordeaux Supérieur appellation. excellent-quality red wine, CHÂTEAU ROC DE CAMBES CHÂTEAU SAUMAN Other wine: Les Bascauds powerfully aromatic and full of Bourg-sur-Gironde Villeneuve Cabernet character. Its name comes cb These immaculate vineyards from the 15th-century monks who CHÂTEAU HAUT-ROUSSET You can expect to pay five times produce a good-quality red wine for looked after the estate and offered Bourg-sur-Gironde the price of any other Côtes de medium-term maturity. The lodgings to passing pilgrims: “Lit- Bourg for this blockbuster, which is proprietor also owns the red-wine Some 12,000 cases of decent, Donne” or “Give Bed.” everyday-drinking red wine and made by François Mitjavile, the producing Domaine du Moulin de 1,000 cases of white are produced owner of Tertre-Rôteboeuf. However, Mendoce in the same commune. at this fairly large property. The red CHÂTEAU some vintages are worth it. wines from a small vineyard close CHÂTEAU by are sold under the Château la PEYCHAUD CHÂTEAU ROUSSET Renardière label. Teuillac Samonac TOUR-DE-TOURTEAU CHÂTEAU bV bV Samonac cV DE LIDONNE These fruity red wines are easy to A fine estate of gravel vineyards drink when young. A little white is producing lightly rich, juicy, Merlot- This property was once part of Bourg-sur-Gironde also made. It is under the same dominated wines of some finesse; Château Rousset. However, the c ownership as Château Peyredoulle they are perfect to drink when two wines are definitely bigger and This very old property produces an and Château le Peuy-Saincrit. or three years old. richer than those of Rousset.

THE WINE PRODUCERS OF BLAYE

CHÂTEAU BARBÉ bright, big, full of fruit, vanilla, and CHÂTEAU CHÂTEAU MAINE-GAZIN Cars spice. A small amount of dry white DE HAUT SOCIONDO “LEVENNE” VIEILLES VIGNES bV wine is sold under the name “Clos- Cars Plassac des-Rudel” and an even smaller This château produces well-made, cV quantity of sweet white wine as Agreeably light and fruity red and and overtly fruity red and white “Clos-Blanc de Lagarcie.” The white wines are made here. With one-third new oak, this 90 wines. Château Barbé is one of châteaux Les-Princesses-de-Lagarcie percent Merlot wine is rich, several properties owned by the and Touzignan, also in Cars, are CHÂTEAU LES sumptuous, and above its class. Bayle-Carreau family (see also La under the same ownership. JONQUEYRES Carelle and Pardaillan). CHÂTEAU MENAUDAT St.-Paul-de-Blaye CHÂTEAU BOURDIEU cbV St.-Androny CHÂTEAU L’ESCADRE cV Berson Cars This château produces lush Merlot- dominated reds with lots of well- These are extremely attractive, full, This is an old and well-known bV and fruity red wines. property producing Cabernet- These elegant red wines are well- integrated creamy oak. The wines are impeccably produced. dominated red wines of a very firm colored, full, and fruity. They can CHÂTEAU PARDAILLAN structure that receive time in oak. be enjoyed young, but also improve Cars Seven hundred years ago this estate with age. A small amount of fruity CHÂTEAU LACAUSSADE was accorded the privilege of selling white wine is produced. SAINT MARTIN Well-made, enjoyable, fruity red “clairet,” a tradition it maintains wines that are best drunk young. Second wine: Château la Croix “TROIS MOULINS” today by aging the blended production of various vineyards in St.-Martin Lacaussade CHÂTEAU oak. It is also producing white DOMAINE cV LES PETITS ARNAUDS wines of improving quality. Owned by Jacques Chardat, but DU GRAND BARRAIL Cars managed and marketed by bV CHÂTEAU LA CARELLE Plassac Vignobles Germain, both the bV St.-Paul sumptuous red and classy dry white Attractively aromatic red wines, This château makes a fine-quality pleasingly round and fruity. Dry More than 11,000 cases of agreeable benefit from 100 percent new oak. red wine that attracts by its purity of white Blaye and a moelleux white. red wines and just 1,500 cases of fruit. A little white wine is white are made at this property. CHÂTEAU LAMANCEAU produced. The proprietor also owns CHÂTEAU PEYREDOULLE The owner also runs châteaux Château Gardut-Haut-Cluzeau and St.-Androny Barbé and Pardaillan in Cars. cV Berson Domaine du Cavalier in Cars. bV Production at this property is CHÂTEAU DE CASTETS This 15th-century property produces entirely red and of an excellent mainly good-quality red wine, Plassac CHÂTEAU DU GRAND standard: richly colored wine full of although some white is made. The A promising property, it produces PIERRE the juicy spice of Merlot. attractive red and white wines for proprietors also own Château Berson Peychaud in the Bourgeais commune early drinking. cV CHÂTEAU LES MOINES of Teuillac and the Bordeaux AOC CHÂTEAU CHARRON This property can produce Blaye of Château le Peuy-Saincrit. tremendous value medium- to full- A red-only château, producing a St.-Martin-Lacaussade bodied red wine with sweet, ripe bV light- to medium-bodied, fresh and CHÂTEAU PEYREYRE fruit. Fresh, zesty, dry white wine of fruity wine for easy drinking St.-Martin-Lacaussade These very attractive, well-made, agreeable quality is also made. juicy-rich, Merlot-dominated red wines cV are matured in oak, some of which CHÂTEAU MARINIER This château produces rich-flavored CHÂTEAU HAUT is new. A small amount of white Cézac reds of some finesse. Bordeaux wine is also made. BERTINERIE bV Rosé is also made. CHÂTEAU Cubnezais Twice as much red wine as white is cbV CHÂTEAU SEGONZAC CRUSQUET-DE-LAGARCIE produced. The red is agreeably The consistent class of this wine, fruity, but the white is much the St.-Genès-de-Blaye Cars with its silky fruit and beautifully better wine: smooth, well-balanced, cV cbV integrated oak, makes it stand out lightly rich, and elegant. Red and Château Segonzac’s easy-drinking A tremendously exciting, richly styled above the rest as the best-value dry rosé wines are also produced under red wines are light, well-made, red wine, which is deep colored, white currently made in Bordeaux. the Bordeaux appellation. fresh, firm, and agreeably fruity. 130 FRANCE ENTRE-DEUX-MERS

Entre-Deux-Mers, which literally means “between two seas” is situated between the Dordogne and Garonne rivers. It is Bordeaux’s largest district, and produces inexpensive dry white wines and an increasing volume of excellent value-for- money red wines that are entitled to the Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur, and Premières- Côtes-de-Bordeaux appellations.

TECHNOLOGICAL PROGRESS in winemaking occurred earlier and more quickly in Entre-Deux-Mers than in any other district of Bordeaux. As early as the 1950s and 1960s, there was a grassroots viticultural movement to drop the traditional low vine-training systems and adopt the revolutionary “high-culture” system CHÂTEAU BONNET contrasted with the low vine-training methods common In 1898 this vineyard was acquired by Léonce Recapet, one of the first to carry throughout Bordeaux. These new vineyard techniques were out replanting after the devastation of the Gironde vineyard by phylloxera at the followed in the 1970s by a widespread adoption of cool- turn of the century. His son-in-law, François Lurton, succeeded him, and in fermentation techniques. With fresh, light, and attractively dry 1956 his grandson, André Lurton, became the owner. white wines being made at many châteaux, the major export markets suddenly realized it would be easier to sell the name winegrowers were not content with this state of affairs. Although Entre-Deux-Mers rather than continue to sell what had become times were difficult and the economy was deteriorating, the boring Bordeaux Blanc. This was even better if the wine could young, technically minded vignerons realized that the district’s boast some sort of individual petit château personality. compressed boulbènes soil, which was choking the vines, could not be worked by their ancestors’ outdated methods, and they THE “HIGH-CULTURE” SYSTEM OF VINE TRAINING therefore took a considerable financial risk to rectify the situation. Entre-Deux-Mers in the late 1940s and early 1950s was a sorry They grubbed up every other row of vines, thus increasing the place. The wines were sold in bulk, ending up as anonymous spacing between the rows, and trained the plants on a “high- Bordeaux Blanc, and much of the decline in the Bordeaux region culture” system similar to that practiced farther south in Madiran was centered on this district. But the new postwar generation of and Jurançon (also in Austria where it was originally conceived

D669 D COUTRAS BOURG 18 Villages entitled to add A10 Guîtres N their name to the Loupiac 137 53 Premières-Côtes-de Bordeaux appellation St-Croix-du- Ambès n S D910 D674 a a Mont Ga an y Entre-Deux-Mers r av e on ST-ANDRÉ- D n Galgon A89 Premières-Côtes- D2 e DE-CUBZAC 54

D113 D670 de Bordeaux D2E Graves de Vayres L av Cadillac AMBARÈS- N89 ie Ste-Foy-Bordeaux Do I rdog s Height above ET-LA ne l e Haut-Benauge sea level (metres) GRAVE St- Loubes 3 D13E LIBOURNE 0 2 4 6 miles Ste-Eulalie Côtes-de-Bordeaux D243 lle Bassens Carbon Blanc St-Macaire Ja Léognan Vayres 50 10 km Yvrac 81 Arveyres St.-Emilion

Lormont N89 D19 D670 Cenon 52 N89 D936 N230 St-Germain- Pompignac du-Puch CASTILLON- D9 74 D1 Floirac 36 LA-BATAILLE 30 Dordogne STE-FOY-LA- Bouliac D20 Branne Carignan 66 21 D130 GRANDE 80 St-Jean-de- Pujols D671 Blaignac Gensac Bordeaux 109 Daignac D D17 les-Leves-et- 128 e D15 Latresne n 108 Thoumeyragues

n e

z 672 Cenac a 92 D 106 r è 100 Camblanes D14 D11 D128 LOUPIAC CHURCH 57 g Rauzan r Quinsac Créon n u St.-Caprais-de- E D The local church neighbors the D10 Bordeaux 104 D19E D121 Blasimon Pellegrue Cambes D671 126 Haux vineyards of Château Loupiac, Baurech Targon Frontènac L Léognan Tabanac 107 D670 N i 113 e 82 D672 which are situated on the right u

Langoiran l Beautiran D11 l

D651 D10 D19 55 Capian e e bank of the Garonne. D15 z 92 108 dè 121 Villenave-de-Rions 230 r Sauveterre-de- D ou Labrède Cardan Guyenne D230 D le Tourne Paillet e Duras Laroque Omet 65 u Lestiac-sur- Rions 58 g A N113 Gornac a D668 62 Garonne Donzac n 44 Coutures Saucats g D230 i t Loupiac Monségur r St-Germain- V ENTRE-DEUX-MERS o Beguey M de-Grave opt 93 t Dr See also p55 a Cadillac Semens Allemans-du- G Dropt Cabanac-et- Barsac Gabanac D672 D668 The varied countryside of this Momprimblanc 97 D708 Villagrains D16 D116 LA RÉOLE 112 district spreads out between the rivers D11 Verdelais N113 D219 Ste-Croix- D228 80 St-Maixant Ga Dordogne and Garonne as their paths Landiras du-Mont ronne D9 e St. Macaire Gupi diverge. The Premières Côtes form a LANGON narrow strip along the south side. D12 BORDEAUX - ENTRE-DEUX-MERS 131

and was called the Lenz Moser system). This system allowed FACTORS AFFECTING TASTE AND QUALITY machinery to work the land and break up the soil. It also increased the canopy of foliage, which intensified chlorophyll LOCATION special rootstock in order to be assimilation and improved ripening. HA large area east of Bordeaux productive in such soil. Much of between the Garonne and the subsoil is limestone or Dordogne rivers. limestone-based, but sandy-clay, COOL FERMENTATION clay-and-limestone rubble, a quarry CLIMATE In the 1970s, university-trained personnel at the well-funded F stone called aslar, and ribot—a Entre-Deux-Mers coopératives invested in temperature-controlled More windy and wetter than the sandstone containing gravel and Médoc; areas near the rivers are iron deposits—are also found. stainless-steel vats and led the way in cool-fermentation liable to flood. techniques. Prior to this, fermentation temperatures were often VITICULTURE AND ASPECT in excess of 83°F (28°C), but it was soon discovered that the E JVINIFICATION Quiet and very attractive This area is famed for its “high and lower the temperature, the more aromatic the compounds countryside of vine-covered wide” method of vine training, released. They discovered that fermentation could take place at hillsides, orchards, and meadows. which was developed in the early temperatures as low as 39°F (4°C), although the risk of stuck- SOIL 1950s and is similar to the Lenz fermentation (when the fermentation process stops) was greater DVery varied topsoils, ranging Moser system used in Austria. at such low temperatures. It soon became clear that the ideal from alluvium by the river to gravel Greater emphasis is now placed on on some hillsides and crests, and the Sauvignon grape and cool fermentation temperature was somewhere between 50°F (10°C) clay-gravel or clay-limestone on fermentation in stainless-steel vats. and 64°F (18°C). This increased the yield of alcohol and important various plateaux. At the western end GRAPE VARIETIES aromatic and flavor compounds. It also reduced both the loss of of the district a soil called boulbènes GPrimary varieties: Sémillon, carbonic gas and the presence of volatile acidity and required less dominates. This is extremely fine Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle sulfur dioxide. In the mid-1980s it was confirmed that 64°F (18°C) and sandy and has a tendency to Secondary varieties: Merlot Blanc, is the optimum temperature for fermentation. Lower temperatures compress into an impermeable Colombard, Mauzac, Ugni Blanc barrier. Vines must be grafted on to also produce amylic aromas, which in small quantities are fine, but the lower the temperature, the more the wine is dominated by these nail-polish aromas.

THE APPELLATIONS OF ENTRE-DEUX-MERS

BORDEAUX CÔTES-DE- comprise both appellations. The wines comply HAUT-BENAUGE AOC BORDEAUX-ST.-MACAIRE AOC with the less rigorous regulations of Entre-Deux- Mers and, consequently, this AOC produces four Situated above the Premières Côtes, opposite These little-seen wines come from an area at times the volume of wine than does Bordeaux- Cérons, this area corresponds to the ancient and the eastern extremity of the Premières-Côtes-de- Haut-Benauge. Entre-Deux-Mers-Haut-Benauge tiny county of Benauge. To claim this appellation, Bordeaux. Of the 6,000 acres (2,300 hectares) of has so far produced only dry wines, with the as opposed to Entre-Deux-Mers-Haut-Benauge, vineyards that may use this appellation, barely exception of 1983, when a luscious vintage the grapes are restricted to the three classic 75 acres (30 hectares) bother to do so. arrived that was easy to make into sweet wines. varieties and must be riper, with a minimum sugar WHITE Medium-bodied, medium-sweet, or level of 195 grams per liter instead of 170 grams WHITE These dry wines are very similar to sweet wines that are attractive in a fruity way, those of Entre-Deux-Mers. per liter. The yield is 10 percent lower and the but unpretentious. gAt least 70 percent Sémillon, Sauvignon minimum alcoholic level 1.5 percent higher. g Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle Blanc, and Muscadelle, plus a maximum of WHITE Dry, medium-sweet, and sweet versions k1–3 years of this light-bodied, fruity wine may be made. 30 percent Merlot Blanc and up to 10 percent in total of Colombard, Mauzac, and g Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle ENTRE-DEUX-MERS AOC Ugni Blanc k 1–3 years for dry and medium-sweet wines; This is the largest district in the region, and after k1–3 years 3–6 years for sweet wines the generic Bordeaux Blanc, it is its greatest- volume white-wine appellation. Entre-Deux- GRAVES DE VAYRES AOC CADILLAC AOC Mers has a growing reputation for exceptional- value wines of a high technical standard. An enclave of gravelly soil on the left bank of Of the trio of sweet-wine areas on the right bank the Dordogne, this appellation produces a WHITE Crisp, dry, light-bodied wines that are of the Garonne, Cadillac is the least known. It substantial quantity of excellent-value red and fragrant, aromatic, and usually predominantly encompasses 21 communes, 16 of which form white wines. the canton of Cadillac, yet very little wine is Sauvignon Blanc. These are clean, cool- produced under this appellation—ust one-fifth of fermented wines. They may be sold from RED These are well-colored, aromatic, medium- that made in Loupiac, or one-tenth of that made December 1 following the harvest without any bodied wines with fragrant, juicy-spicy, in Ste.-Croix-du-Mont. The regulations state that mention of primeur or nouveau. predominantly Merlot fruit. They are richer than those found elsewhere in Entre-Deux-Mers. the wines must be made from botrytized grapes gAt least 70 percent Sémillon, Sauvignon harvested in successive tries, but there is little Blanc, and Muscadelle, plus a maximum gCabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, evidence of this in the wines, which at best have of 30 percent Merlot Blanc and up to 10 Carmenère, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot the character of passerillage. The terroir could percent in total of Colombard, Mauzac, and k4–10 years produce wines of a much superior quality, but Ugni Blanc WHITE Mostly dry and off-dry styles of fresh, it would be costly to do so, and sadly, this k1–2 years fragrant, and fruity wines made for early appellation does not fetch a high enough price drinking. Occasionally, sweeter styles are made. to justify the substantial investment needed. ENTRE-DEUX-MERS- These wines may be sold from December 1 WHITE Attractive honey-gold wines with fresh, HAUT-BENAUGE AOC following the harvest without any mention of floral aromas and a semisweet, or sweet, fruity primeur or nouveau. These wines are drier than those of the flavor. Bordeaux-Haut-Benauge appellation, and their gSémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle gSémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle blends may include a greater number of grape plus a maximum of 30 percent Merlot Blanc k3–8 years varieties, although the same nine communes k1–3 years 132 FRANCE

LOUPIAC AOC and fruity wines are a cut above basic Bordeaux This is the second-best sweet-white appellation This appellation is located on the right bank AOC. on the right bank of the Garonne, and it of the Garonne, opposite Barsac. It is by far gCabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, regularly produces more wine than Barsac. Like the best sweet-wine appellation in Entre-Deux- Carmenère, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot Loupiac wines, these wines must be made with Mers and its wines are always excellent value. k4–8 years the “assistance” of overripe botrytized grapes. They have less honeyed complexity of “noble According to the regulations, Loupiac must WHITE Since the 1981 harvest, no dry wines be made with the “assistance” of overripe rot” than Loupiac wines, but often have more have been allowed under this generally finesse. botrytized grapes and, unlike Cadillac, these unexciting appellation. They must have at wines often have the honeyed complexity of least some sweetness, and most are in fact WHITE Fine, viscous, honey-sweet wines that “noble rot.” The best Loupiac wines come from semisweet. Simple, fruity wines, well-made for are lighter in body and color than Loupiac vineyards with clay-and-limestone soil. the most part, but lacking character. wines. Excellent value when they have rich botrytis character. WHITE Luscious medium- to full-bodied wines gSémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle that are sweet or intensely sweet, honey-rich, gSémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle k3–7 years and full of flavor. They can be quite complex, k5–15 years (25 in exceptional cases) and in suitable years have evident botrytis character. STE.-CROIX- DU-MONT AOC gSémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle STE.-FOY-BORDEAUX AOC k5–15 years (25 in exceptional cases) Until relatively recently, Ste.-Foy-Bordeaux was PREMIÈRES-CÔTES-DE- known primarily for its white wines, but it now produces as much red as white. There is a high BORDEAUX AOC proportion of “organic” winemakers in this area. A 37-mile (60-kilometer) strip of southwest- RED Ruby-colored, medium-bodied wines made facing slopes covering 420 acres (170 hectares) in a soft, easy-drinking style. of vines scattered through 37 communes, each gCabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, of which has the right to add its name to this Malbec, Petit Verdot appellation. They are: Bassens, Baurech, Béguey, Bouliac, Cadillac, Cambes, Camblanes, k3–7 years Capian, Carbon Blanc, Cardan, Carignan, Cenac, WHITE Mellow, semisweet wines of uninspiring Cenon, Donzac, Floirac, Gabarnac, Haux, quality, and fresh, crisp dry white wines that Langoiran, Laroque, Lestiac, Lormont, have good aroma and make attractive early Monprimblanc, Omet, Paillet, Quinsac, Rions, drinking. These wines may be sold from Sémens, St.-Caprais-de-Bordeaux, St.-Germain- December 1 following the harvest without any de-Graves, St.-Maixant, Ste.-Eulalie, Tabanac, Le mention of primeur or nouveau. Tourne, La Tresne, Verdelais, Ville-nave de gSémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle, Rions, and Yvrac. and up 10 percent in total of Merlot Blanc, RED The best red wines come from the Colombard, Mauzac, and Ugni Blanc northern communes. These well-colored, soft, k1–3 years

THE WINE PRODUCERS OF ENTRE-DEUX-MERS

CHÂTEAU red and well-colored. They are (Bordeaux Supérieur) red. CHÂTEAU ARNAUD-JOUAN aromatic wines of a Cabernet Second wine: Le Colombey DE CÉRONS character. Cadillac Other wines: Tour-de-Bonnet, Cérons AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux CHÂTEAU BIROT Château Gourmin, Château Peyraud AOC Cérons and AOC Cadillac cV Béguey bV CHÂTEAU Jean Perromat also owns Château This large, well-situated vineyard AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux BRÉTHOUS d’Arche, and consistently produces and AOC Cadillac makes interesting, attractive wines. Camblanes-et-Meynac superb, white botrytized wines. bV AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux Other wine: De Calvimont (dry DOMAINE DU BARRAIL Popular for its easy-drinking whites, and AOC Cadillac white) Monprimblanc this property also produces well- cV balanced red wines of some finesse. AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux The red wines are forward and DOMAINE and AOC Cadillac attractive, yet well-structured, bV CHÂTEAU DE CHASTELET LA BLANQUERIE while the whites are succulent Both the red Premières Côtes and and sweet. Quinsac sweet white Cadillac produced at Mérignas AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux this property are worth watching. AOC Entre-Deux-Mers CHÂTEAU CANET and AOC Cadillac cV CHÂTEAU DE Dry white wine with a Sauvignon Guillac character and a fine finish. Domaine de Chastelet produces red BEAUREGARD AOC Entre-Deux-Mers wine that is delicious, yet firm and cV AOC Entre-Deux-Mers and AOC complex, with very well-balanced Bordeaux-Haut-Benauge CHÂTEAU These excellent white wines are blackcurrant fruit flavors and a hint The red and white wines are well- BONNET clean and crisp, with good fruit and of vanilla oak. made. The red has good structure, Grézillac an elegant balance. but is softened by the spice of the AOC Entre-Deux-Mers CHÂTEAU CAYLA CLOS BOURGELAT Merlot. cb Rions Cérons CHÂTEAU BEL-AIR This top-performing Entre-Deux- Mers château is owned by André AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux AOC Cérons Vayres Lurton. It produces crisp, fresh, and cV cbV AOC Graves de Vayres characterful white wines, and soft, The reds are elegant and accessible These botrytized wines have great Most of the wines made here are fruity, extremely successful with just a touch of new oak. aroma, finesse, and complexity. BORDEAUX - ENTRE-DEUX-MERS 133

CLOS JEAN CHÂTEAU DE GORCE CHÂTEAU CHÂTEAU LAFITTE Loupiac Haux GROSSOMBRE Camblanes-et-Meynac AOC Loupiac AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux Branne AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux The wines produced by Clos Jean and AOC Cadillac AOC Entre-Deux-Mers and AOC Cadillac are similar quality to those of This château produces fruity reds cV Nothing like the real thing (the Château du Cros, but more refined and fresh, floral whites. The daughter of André Lurton runs famous premier cru), of course, but and ethereal in character. this property, which produces lush the wine is decent, well structured, CHÂTEAU yet elegant white wines and a and capable of improving with CHÂTEAU LA CLYDE GOUDICHAUD beautifully concentrated red, the age—a cheap way to get a Château Lafitte on the table, even if it is not Tabanac Vayres latter of which is sold under the Bordeaux Supérieur AOC and must the Château Lafite. AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux AOC Graves de Vayres and AOC Cadillac be one of Bordeaux’s greatest This property also extends into St.- CHÂTEAU LAFUE cV bargains. Germain-du-Puch in Entre-Deux- Cadillac These aromatic, deep-colored, ruby- Mers, where it produces some very CHÂTEAU DU GUA AOC Ste.-Croix-du-Mont red wines show good spice and respectable wines. fruit. The white has finesse and Ambarès-et-Lagrave b balance. CHÂTEAU GOUMIN AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux Attractive, sweet white wines with and AOC Cadillac more of a fruity than a botrytis Dardenac CHÂTEAU DU CROS An attractive, well-structured red character. Nearly a quarter of the Loupiac AOC Entre-Deux-Mers wine is produced from this 20-acre production is red wine. Goumin is another successful André (8-hectare) vineyard of fine gravel. AOC Loupiac CHÂTEAU LAGAROSSE cV Lurton château. It produces up to 10,000 cases of pleasant, soft, fruity CHÂTEAU Tabanac red wine and 5,000 cases of white HAUT-BRIGNON AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux wine that is slightly fuller than other similar Lurton products. Cénac The red is easy-drinking with soft AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux fruit and an easy finish. GRAND ENCLOS DU and AOC Cadillac b CHÂTEAU CHÂTEAU DE CÉRONS LAGRANGE-HAMILTON Cérons This property has been steadily improving since the late 1980s, Rions AOC Cérons producing a soft, velvety red and AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux Although historically part of Château crisp, dry white, plus one of This property is run by Hamilton de Cérons, this is not under the Cadillac’s better wines. Narby, formerly of Château Guiraud same ownership. The original estate in Sauternes. I have not yet tracked belonged to the Marquis de The fine, fat, succulent sweet wines CHÂTEAU DE HAUX down this wine, but if Hamilton Calvimont, but was split in two by of this château are among the best Narby devotes a mere fraction of the route from Bordeaux to Spain, Haux of the appellation. the effort he put into reviving which was constructed in 1875. The AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux Guiraud to this place, then it should marquis then sold the property in bV CHÂTEAU DINTRANS be worth keeping an eye on. three separate lots, one of which These red and white wines are Ste.-Eulalie was called Grand Enclos and was gorgeously ripe and ready to drink, CHÂTEAU LAMOTHE AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux purchased by the Lataste family, absolutely fresh, and very elegant, and AOC Cadillac who are still the owners today. The and, under the Château Frère label, Haux white wines of Grand Enclos are This château produces attractive, a fabulous oak-fermented white is AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux equally as rich and potentially nicely colored, fruity red wines. also produced. Probably the top- and AOC Cadillac complex as those of Château de performing château in the Premières Cérons itself (which is so called Côtes for both red and white. CHÂTEAU DE L’ESPLANADE because it retains the marquis’ Capian château). CHÂTEAU DU JUGE AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux Haux Produced by Patrick and Sabine CHÂTEAU Bayle of Château Plaisance, these GRAND MONEIL AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux and AOC Cadillac primarily Merlot wines are cheaper Salleboeuf and simpler than those of Château These promising red wines are easy AOC Entre-Deux-Mers drinking, and full of juicy fruit Plaisance, but are easy-drinking cV nevertheless. They are also sold flavors. Decent, if unexciting whites under the Château Florestan label. Barely more than a thousand cases are also made. of white, but 35,000 cases of CHÂTEAU FAYAU excellent-quality, soft, easy-drinking CHÂTEAU DU JUGE red. Cadillac Cadillac AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux CHÂTEAU AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux and AOC Cadilla DU GRAND-MOÜEYS and AOC Cadillac Respectable red and dry white This château produces succulent Capian sweet wines in addition to red, wines are produced at Château du clairet, and dry white wines. AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux Juge, and in some years, a little cV Other wine: Clos des Capucins sweet white wine of high quality is Some exceptionally good wines Excellent-value reds for medium- also made. Both red and white have been produced in recent years CHÂTEAU FLORESTAN term aging are currently made at wines are extraordinarily good at this château, which derives its this château. value. name from “La Motte,” a rocky spur See Château de l’Esplanade that protects the vineyard. CHÂTEAU GRAVELINES CHÂTEAU LABATUT CHÂTEAU FONGRAVE Sémens St.-Maixant CHÂTEAU L Gornac AROCHE BEL AIR AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux AOC Entre-Deux-Mers and AOC Cadillac and AOC Cadillac Baurech These dry white wines have a fresh cV The red wines are aromatic and full AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux and tangy taste. This large property produces equal of flavor, while the sweet white Absolutely delicious-drinking reds Second wine: Château de la quantities of excellent red and white wines are exceptional quality. under the basic Château Laroche Sablière Fongrave (red wines) wines. Decent dry white is also produced. label, and an even better selection 134 FRANCE of oak-aged reds under Laroche The sweet white wine of this CHÂTEAU PEYRINES and two dry white wines under the Bel Air. château has an attractive, fresh, Mourens Château Reynon label. fruit-salad flavor and is one of the AOC Entre-Deux-Mers-Haut-Benauge best examples of the appellation. CHÂTEAU RICAUD CHÂTEAU LATOUR and Bordeaux Haut-Benauge Very respectable red and dry St.-Martin-du-Puy cb Loupiac Sauvignon wines are also produced, AOC Entre-Deux-Mers which are sold under the Bordeaux The vineyard of this château has an AOC Loupiac From this ancient château, parts of appellations. excellent southern exposure and The wines of Château Ricaud are which date back to the 14th produces fruity red and white once again the best in the Loupiac century, 10,000 cases of attractive, CHÂTEAU DES MAILLES wines. appellation. They suffered a significant decline under the well-balanced, smooth red Cadillac Bordeaux Supérieur are produced CHÂTEAU DE PIC previous proprietor, but have at last AOC Ste.-Croix-du-Mont every year. This château’s Le Tourne recovered, and now display great Some outstanding sweet wines are class under new ownership. technically sound wines often win AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux prizes and enable its devotees to produced at Château des Mailles, claim that they can afford to drink but the wines can occasionally be The basic red is a lovely, creamy- CHÂTEAU Château Latour every day, at disappointing. sweet, easy-drinking, fruity wine. A DE LA SABLIÈRE-FONGRAVE minimum expense. superb oak-aged red under the CHÂTEAU LA MAUBASTIT Cuvée Tradition label is also made. Gornac AOC Entre-Deux-Mers-Haut-Benauge CHÂTEAU LATOUR AOC Ste.-Foy-de-Bordeaux CHÂTEAU PICHON- and Bordeaux Haut-Benauge Camblanes-et-Meynac Some 5,000 cases of white and BELLEVUE Sold as a Bordeaux Supérieur, the AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux 2,000 of red, both “organic” wines, Vayres red wine of Château de la Sablière- and AOC Cadillac are sold under the Bordeaux Fongrave is fairly robust and appellation. This is another everyday-drinking AOC Graves de Vayres requires time in bottle to soften. A claret with this prestigious name. The red wines are variable, but the much better quality dry white is CHÂTEAU MORLAN- dry whites are delicate and refined. produced and sold under the Entre- CHÂTEAU LAUNAY TUILIÈRE Deux-Mers appellation. St.-Pierre-de-Bat CHÂTEAU PLAISANCE Soussac CHÂTEAU TANESSE AOC Entre-Deux-Mers AOC Entre-Deux-Mers-Haut-Benauge Capian and Bordeaux Haut-Benauge Langoiran This large property produces 40,000 AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux cases of a fresh dry white wine and One of the best properties of the The Cuvée Tradition, in which the AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux 15,000 cases of a red wine sold area, producing a vibrant, crystal- wine is aged in oak and is and AOC Cadillac under the “Haut-Castanet” label. clear Entre-Deux-Mers-Haut- unfiltered, gives rich, ripe fruit with A Cordier property, Château Benauge, a Bordeaux Supérieur in Other wines: Bradoire, Château supple tannin structure and smoky Tanesse produces a decent the moelleux style, and a fairly full- oak. Cabernet-dominated red, and fine- Dubory, Château Haut-Courgeaux, bodied red AOC Bordeaux. Château La Vaillante Other wines: De l’Esplanade, quality, Sauvignon-style dry white. Château Florestin CHÂTEAU MOULIN DE CHÂTEAU DES TASTES CHÂTEAU LAURETTE LAUNAY CHÂTEAU DE PLASSAN Cadillac Cadillac Soussac Tabanac AOC Ste.-Croix-du-Mont AOC Ste.-Croix-du-Mont AOC Entre-Deux-Mers cV b AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux Despite the vast quantity produced, The basic red has a lot of character, The sweet white wine is truly This property is under the same the dry white wine is crisp and with cherry-minty undertones in exciting; luxurious in texture, with ownership as Château Lafue and fruity, and of a very fine standard. A riper years. However, the fuller, creamy-rich flavors showing the runs along similar lines. little red is also produced. more complex cuvée spéciale is classic complex character of botrytis. CHÂTEAU LOUBENS Other wines: Plessis, Château worth paying for, particularly if you Tertre-de-Launay, Château de want a wine to accompany food. Cadillac Tuilerie, Château la Vigerie CHÂTEAU TERFORT AOC Ste.-Croix-du-Mont CHÂTEAU Cadillac c CHÂTEAU MOULIN DE PONTETTE-BELLEGRAVE AOC Ste.-Croix-du-Mont This château produces rich, ROMAGE b Vayres liquorous, superbly balanced sweet AOC Ste.-Foy-de-Bordeaux A small amount of excellent sweet white wines. Dry white wines are AOC Graves de Vayres This château produces equal white wine is produced by Château sold as “Fleur Blanc,” and a little quantities of “organic” red and This property has a reputation for Terfort. red wine is also made. white. subtly flavored, dry white wines. Other wine: Fleur Blanc de CHÂTEAU THIEULEY Château Loubens DOMAINE DU NOBLE CHÂTEAU La Sauve PUY BARDENS Loupiac AOC Entre-Deux-Mers CHÂTEAU Cambes b LOUPIAC-GAUDIET AOC Loupiac This property consistently produces AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux Château Thieuley is owned by Loupiac fine botrytized wines that combine This top-performing château Professor Courselle, a former Médoc AOC Loupiac sweetness and strength with produces reds with sweet, ripe, fat professor of viticulture and Fine, honey-rich sweet wines elegance and a fresh, long finish. fruit and a soft, velvety finish. oenology. His dry white combines hinting of crystallized fruit are good fruit flavor with a fine produced here. CHÂTEAU PETIT-PEY CHÂTEAU LA RAME Sauvignon style, while the red is good and silky. St.-André-du-Bois Cadillac CHÂTEAU LOUSTEAU-VIEIL AOC Côtes-de-Bordeaux-St.-Macaire AOC Ste.-Croix-du-Mont CHÂTEAU Cadillac Good, sweet white St.-Macaire and One of the top wines of the DE TOUTIGEAC appellation, La Rame can have fruit, AOC Ste.-Croix-du-Mont agreeably soft red AOC Bordeaux Targon c are made at this property. with cream and honey flavors. AOC Entre-Deux-Mers-Haut-Benauge This property produces richly CHÂTEAU PEYREBON CHÂTEAU REYNON- and Bordeaux Haut-Benauge flavoured, high-quality sweet wines. bV Grézillac PEYRAT Château de Toutigeac is a well- CHÂTEAU MACHORRE AOC Entre-Deux-Mers Béguey known property that produces full, St.-Martin-de-Sescas Produces red and white wine in AOC Premières-Côtes-de-Bordeaux rich red wine. It is made for early AOC Côtes-de-Bordeaux-St.-Macaire almost equal quantities. The dry This property produces a superb, drinking, and is the best the château b white is fine and flavorsome. oak-aged Premières Côtes red wine, produces.