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SS21 Runway Trends Backed by Data

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SS21 Runway Trends Backed by Data SPRING /SUMMER 2021 • PRODUCT & TREND SS21 Runway Trends Backed by Data Introduction | Luxe Homewear | Cottagecore Evolution | New Minimalism | Sustainability | Key Next Steps Written by Nur Atiqah Kamarudin, Senior Business Intelligence Analyst SPRING/SUMMER 2021 • PRODUCT & TREND Introduction Key Insights • Increasing Need for Comfortable Dressing: A dominant theme across SS21 collections, the relaxed and oversized silhouettes are already trending and continue to be popular in the mass market. • Versatile WFH Outfits: Key runway trends this season reflects consumers’ lifestyle changes in the new normal. As validated by data, clothes that allow transition from lounging at home to jumping on video calls are seeing a significant increase in intake and demand. • Slow in Sustainability: Despite increasing coverage, brands are not disciplined in sustainable practices nor mindfully incorporating eco- friendly materials. The Covid-19 pandemic disrupted the traditional runway format this year with big names including Marc Jacobs, Gucci, and Saint Laurent notably absent from the Spring/Summer 2021 (SS21) fashion weeks. Nonetheless, the designers who showcased their collections offered a practical vision for spring. From digital showcases in the form of videos to hybrid ‘phygital’ presentations, clear fashion themes emerged. Many used the opportunity to reflect on the current turbulent times, but in an optimistic manner. Most of the collections evoked hope and optimism, with hints of escapism present across the four fashion capitals. Website @Vogue SPRING/SUMMER 2021 • PRODUCT & TREND Introduction (cont’d) From homewear to Cottagecore, this report analysed the key trends arising from the SS21 runways to guide assortment planning with data- backed insights and minimise risk. Over 530,000 data points were screened from January to October 2020 across womenswear categories on these UK and US key fashion retailers: 1. Asos 8. Topshop 2. H&M 9. PrettyLittleThing 3. Zara 10. Forever 21 4. Missguided 11. Revolve 5. Nasty Gal 12. Cos 6. Shein 13. Massimo Dutti 7. Fashion Nova 14. Banana Republic All data used in this report comes from products retailing online as tracked by Instagram @sheinofficial Omnilytics, unless otherwise mentioned. SPRING/SUMMER 2021 • PRODUCT & TREND Luxe Homewear Comfort dressing has become a dominant theme in fashion, now with the increased time spent indoors. Loungewear, a trend that surged at the peak of the pandemic has gone mainstream as consumers prioritised comfort. While loungewear was the centrepiece of the SS21 shows, homewear emerged as an equally noteworthy trend. This was reflected on the runways through fluffy slippers and robes as seen at Balenciaga. Even traditionally dressed-up labels like Rodarte and Tom Ford went casual, incorporating relaxed sweatsuits and luxe pyjamas in their collections. Balenciaga Cynthia Rowley Rodarte Koché Simon Miller Tom Ford SPRING/SUMMER 2021 • PRODUCT & TREND C H A R T 1 : TRADE MOVEMENT FOR SATIN PYJAMAS Luxe Homewear (cont’d) Elevated Loungewear Expanding on the loungewear trend, designers embraced the luxe side of loungewear with silk and satin pyjamas that can transition seamlessly from day to night. The incorporation of homewear in the runways brought a positive reaction from the masses. Despite the 22% decline in new arrivals for satin pyjamas compared to last year (Chart 1), sell-out increased by 72% to an all-time high in October. This was led by Asos and Shein. Besides pyjamas, robes and house slippers are also having a moment. The sell-out for robes increased by 148% against last year as retailers increased investment by 40%. More time spent at home also resulted in a rising demand for house slippers, as sell-out rate remained high since May. The 288% YoY increase in sell-out backed the role of comfort in today’s consumers, with fluffy and faux fur designs preferred. 5 SPRING/SUMMER 2021 • PRODUCT & TREND C H A R T 2 : TREND PERFORMANCE OVERVIEW FOR LOUNGEWEAR Luxe Homewear (cont’d) Loungewear Categories to Stay While some may experience loungewear fatigue, data shows the trend has yet to see signs of waning. It remains on the uptrend across most apparel categories (Chart 2). With more countries facing the second wave of coronavirus, loungewear is expected to continue in popularity entering 2021. Loungewear staples – Joggers, Hoodies & Sweatshirts and Co-Ords observed over 100% surge in new-in and sell-out compared to last year (Chart 3). With a steady sell-out throughout the SS20 period, retailers continued to invest in these pieces entering Fall, especially Hoodies & Sweatshirts. C H A R T 3 : TRADE MOVEMENT FOR LOUNGEWEAR CATEGORIES Sell-out for the three categories peaked in May as many countries were still in lockdown. Though they declined and returned to pre-pandemic rates in August, sell-out rates saw a gradual increment in October. The sharp intake in Fall coupled with steady demand for the category backed the longevity of the highly versatile style. 6 C H A R T 4 : BESTSELLING SWEATSHIRTS & CO - ORDS SORTED BY MOST REPLENISHED SPRING/SUMMER 2021 • PRODUCT & TREND Luxe Homewear (cont’d) Seasonless Appeal For Hoodies & Sweatshirts, slouchy and oversized pieces in core colours, as well as muted palettes were popular. As consumers look to invest in seasonless items, Loungewear Sets or Co-ords emerged as must-have items due to their versatility. Brands played with materials to accommodate to the changes in temperature – opting for lightweight knit set with matching shorts for the Spring/Summer season. Entering Fall, the sweatsuits style, with matching hoodie and joggers in soft-touch fabric such as acrylic was prevalent. Kim Kardashian’s recent velour tracksuits launch for her brand Skims, officially brought back the Juicy Couture sweats era, adding to the longevity of the loungewear trend. C H A R T 5 : BESTSELLING SATIN PYJAMAS SORTED BY NEW - IN Busy Print Dominance The new satin pyjamas that caught consumers’ hearts were mostly in classic cut, relaxed fit and with long sleeves. Busy all-over prints trumped plain ones, as they can easily transition from virtual meetings at home to quick meet-ups outside. 7 SPRING/SUMMER 2021 • PRODUCT & TREND Cottagecore Evolution Back to Nature Numerous designers from Rodarte to Erdem embraced nature as the main theme this season. This was evident in how the collections were presented, giving a nod to the uprising Cottagecore trend. The trend, which incorporates rural and countryside living, has become one of the most commercial themes this year with #cottagecore used in over 925,000 posts on Instagram and counting. The pandemic has left consumers yearning for simpler times and embracing escapist fashion. Besides vintage florals, roomy smock dresses in gingham checks were prevalent across the four fashion capitals. Collars were even louder this season, from the super-sized Peter Pan collars seen at Philosophy di Anna Sui Erdem Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Lorenzo Serafini to the adorned neckerchief spotted at Erdem. These traditionally feminine detailing further streghthened the already bubbling Cottagecore trend in the mass market. Other stylistic elements included lace, Broderie Anglaise, ruffles, puffy sleeves and embroidery. 8 Rodarte Christian Dior Rokh SPRING/SUMMER 2021 • PRODUCT & TREND C H A R T 6 : NEW - IN MOVEMENT FOR STATEMENT COLLARS 600 Cottagecore Evolution (cont’d) New-In Count 500 Sell-Out Count New Neckline The statement collar trend has injected new variations to the current 400 popular square neckline. These came mostly in Peter Pan and 300 exaggerated point collars, with embroidered lace detailing. Count SKU 200 New-in across Tops and Dresses with oversized collars saw increased intake entering Fall, led by Shein, Asos, H&M and Zara. Although newness 100 dipped in October, sell-out rose significantly with 41% MoM growth from 0 August. The continuous need for chest-up dressing will propel the Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct 2020 statement collar trend in the next season. C H A R T 7 : NEW - IN TOPS & DRESSES WITH STATEMENT COLLARS SPRING/SUMMER 2021 • PRODUCT & TREND C H A R T 8 : TRADE MOVEMENT FOR SMOCK DRESSES Cottagecore Evolution (cont’d) Strong Demand for Smock Dresses The loose, billowing style received growing interest throughout the pandemic, sealing its iconic status in the Cottagecore trend. Total smock dresses in the market saw a steady increase since January, with sell-out gaining momentum at the height of the pandemic in April. Demand continued to rise throughout the Spring/Summer season, reaching a peak in October at 41% sell-out rate. With a staggering 124% more newness this year, sell-out grew in tandem by 172%. The performance of smock dresses portrayed consumers’ ‘see now buy now’ sentiment perfectly. Despite being traditionally seen as a Spring/Summer style, sell-out rates indicate a strong demand in Fall. As some employees will not be returning to the office until 2021, the house dress style is expected to stick around in the coming season. C H A R T 9 : PATTERN ANALYSIS FOR SMOCK DRESSES Prints in Demand Floral print came through with a seasonless appeal, with ditsy dominating the smock dresses assortment this year. The pattern translated into demand, as it contributed to 36% of the total sell-out for printed dresses. Gingham is the next potential of growth after floral print, with sell-out leaping by 230% against last year. Demand for gingham dresses gained momentum in June and reached a peak in October, with a sell-out rate of 54%. 10 SPRING/SUMMER 2021 • PRODUCT & TREND CHART 10: NEW - I N & S E L L - OUT GROWTH FOR COTTAGECORE AESTHETIC Cottagecore Evolution (cont’d) Puff sleeves Ditsy florals New-In Feminine Details Prevail Ruffles Sell-Out Comfortable day dresses in feminine details reigned supreme in 2020 as Maxi new-in and sell-out growths showed significant increase against last year. Loose fit Among the popular styles included puffy sleeves, ditsy floral print, ruffles, Tiered tiered and maxi length.
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